RV-Archive.digest.vol-lj
August 29, 2001 - September 03, 2001
> one) or using cherrymax Pop rivets from the outside.
>
> Any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse
>
>
>
Gordon, I turtle decked my -4, my advice is to get a helper on this one, back
rivet from the inside. The top skin will be the most noticed part on your
plane. No sense in banging it up trying to do it your self.
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom J <tsjryj(at)yahoo.com> |
Seeing that the list has been down and I didn't make it to Osh this year.
Were there any new developments in the Jabiru 8 cylinder department?
I would love to hear some positive news but will take cold harsh reality if I have
to.
Tom
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Alclad |
> As an experiment I scuffed a small piece of Alclad and left it
> overnight
> in some saltwater along with an unscuffed
> piece. Results: scuffed piece was totally covered with erosion.
> Unscuffed piece was unaffected. Leads me to
> believe that even slight scuffing eliminates any anticorrosion
> properties.
I must have missed the beginning of this thread...
The only reason to scuff the aluminum is for primer or paint to adhere
to it. If you leave it a "natural" finish surely you won't be scuffing
the skins...
?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
| Subject: | Skinning top of fuse |
Another tip I can offer is to back rivet the turtle deck where ever
possible... It makes a big difference... Also, if you still end up with
some indentations where the rivets are you can take something like the set
that comes with your c-frame rivet tool, put a flush set in it, and use it
and a hammer very lightly tap on the shop head of the rivet until the
indentation is pushed back out. You will probably need two people for this
too, one for tapping and one for watching your progress, but you can really
make that area look nice...
Take your time as most people, builder especially, will look at this area to
how well it was done...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Canopy
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Skinning top of fuse
Do whatever is necessary to get a day's worth of help on this. You need to
have the skin down tight before the first rivet is done to get the smooth
finish you want. This is a high visibility area.
Side note, uses shims as needed to prevent flat spots on the skin curvature.
The rule is if there is anyway to squeeze a shim between the skin and the
bulkhead, then a shim is required. I made the shims in different thickness,
.020, .025 and .032. The shim is just a half inch square piece of aluminum
with a #40 dimpled hole.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings on, final trim work)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Skinning top of fuse
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. Glad to have the list back
up
> again.
>
> I am just starting on the turtle deck of my RV8. So far I have managed to
> do everything solo, with no bucking bar helper. But the top deck may just
> defeat me.
>
> Has anyone done it solo? If so, how? I dont think the skin will bend
out
> of the way to stretch an arm in like I could do on the wing, because of
its
> curvature. I am thinking of either trying to make a really clever
fixture
> to hold the bucking bar and using backriveting from inside the fuse (one
by
> one) or using cherrymax Pop rivets from the outside.
>
> Any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: high CHT's
Thread-Index: AcEwmbahY3x0kyIWQfmaV/5QhnJ9LA=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
It's great that the list is back up again...but I discovered that
without the RV-List I got a whole heck of a lot more work done at work.
So now I'm on digest mode...can't have my head in the clouds all the
time.
My hottest two cylinders run in the high 350's at cruise and close to
400 in climb on a hot day; the cooler ones run around 315-325; I noticed
with running straight-weight oils my temps ran cooler. Also oil temps
run a bit cooler, and less ends up on the belly. About 1/3 of my oil
cooler is taped off. Seems that friends who have new lyc's in their
birds run hot; I have chrome cylinders on my engine and haven't had any
heat problems.
One thing that I've seen to help hot running cylinders is to make air
deflectors out of a curved sheet of aluminum clamped to the pushrod
tubes. I played with aluminum tape on the front cylinders to try to
even things out better but I didn't have much success.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 198 hours (1 year 1 month)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Alclad |
I wonder if acid etch removes the alclad in the same way as scuffing?
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Marshall" <btmars(at)jps.net>
Subject: RV-List: Removing Alclad
> As an experiment I scuffed a small piece of Alclad and left it overnight
> in some saltwater along with an unscuffed
> piece. Results: scuffed piece was totally covered with erosion.
> Unscuffed piece was unaffected. Leads me to
> believe that even slight scuffing eliminates any anticorrosion
> properties.
> Bob Marshall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Alclad |
I just primed the inside skin of my HS and I didn't scuff it. I cleaned the
surface with a PPG cleaner and the primer adhered just fine. However, I did
scuff (scotch pad) the ribs and spar. I'm thinking that may have been a
mistake.
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 Emp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing Alclad
>
>
> > As an experiment I scuffed a small piece of Alclad and left it
> > overnight
> > in some saltwater along with an unscuffed
> > piece. Results: scuffed piece was totally covered with erosion.
> > Unscuffed piece was unaffected. Leads me to
> > believe that even slight scuffing eliminates any anticorrosion
> > properties.
>
>
> I must have missed the beginning of this thread...
> The only reason to scuff the aluminum is for primer or paint to adhere
> to it. If you leave it a "natural" finish surely you won't be scuffing
> the skins...
>
> ?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Truckee/Tahoe EAA chapter 1073 |
Does anyone have any info on the Truckee/Tahoe EAA chapter 1073?
Specifically,
I'm trying to find out if they will have anything going on and where
they are
located during the Reno Air-Races in Sept.
Thanks,
Gary Gunn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The First 10 Hours on N601RD |
CHT's on my -4 with a reman o-320 150HP at 17 hours are 375 on the #3
cylinder at 2400RPM level flight. The others are all about 50 degrees less.
On the first few flights it was impossible to keep the #3 cylinder out of
redline temps without cutting back to 2200RPM in level flight. It is still
easy to get it up to 450-500 in a climb if I don't let the speed up to at
least 110MPH.
The engine shop (Columbia Aviation) told me to expect the high temperatures
until it was completely broke-in.
My oil temp on the other hand is very low. At 100% power 2700RPM and 190MPH
the tem will build up to 175 after 15 minutes. At eny other lower power
setting the temp falls to 140 or below. This is with the oil cooler blocked
off.
Dean's oil temp is somewhat low also. Is this a typical trait of RV-4's?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:07:23 -0500
>
>
>I concur. I see 400 to 420 at most power settings in the summer on my
>VM1000 with two-point calibrated CHT probes. And new engines tend to run
>much, much hotter until they are broken in.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 99.4 hours
>Hampshire, IL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:40 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>
>
> >
> > Really?? I've just never heard of anyone running head temps that low.
> > Every RV I've ever flown in has been close to 400 or a little over
>(except
> > when I flew in yours, but then it was my first ride in one and my grin
>was
> > so big it obscured my eyes....especially when I was upside down.
>).
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Mike, why do you think that is not right? 300 is about where mine
> > > runs in cruise.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 97 Msgs - 08/28/01 |
Vince,
In case you're ever in the position of having to make a gear up landing, you
might keep these data points in mind.
1) You are much LESS likely to flip or cartwheel the airplane if you land on
pavement rather than sod/grass.
2) Your approach and landing are not committed until the prop starts to hit
the pavement. Emergency equipment have been known to get in the way, forcing
a go-around at the last minute. Do you want to risk your life to save a
5,000 dollar prop and an engine teardown? I can recall when trying this
procedure of stopping the engine before touchdown resulted in the
destruction of a new Glasair III. All he had wrong was a bad gear light.
BTW, he didn't have insurance.
3) The airplane is fixable/replaceable. Take the safest course of action to
save your skin, not the airplane.
Bruce
Glasair III
***************
Am I missing something here. He circled for an hour and then landed on
concrete with the prop still turning! Weren't there any grass runways
around? Why didn't he shut the engine off and crank the prop around to
horizontal? It's not like he didn't have enough time to plan it out.
Sheesh. He should be forced to pay our insurance premiums!
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The First 10 Hours on N601RD |
How many hours of break-in time is typical?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:07:23 -0500
>
>
>I concur. I see 400 to 420 at most power settings in the summer on my
>VM1000 with two-point calibrated CHT probes. And new engines tend to run
>much, much hotter until they are broken in.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 99.4 hours
>Hampshire, IL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:40 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>
>
> >
> > Really?? I've just never heard of anyone running head temps that low.
> > Every RV I've ever flown in has been close to 400 or a little over
>(except
> > when I flew in yours, but then it was my first ride in one and my grin
>was
> > so big it obscured my eyes....especially when I was upside down.
>).
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Mike, why do you think that is not right? 300 is about where mine
> > > runs in cruise.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sices" <michaelsices(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Order of Operations |
I am at a point where the fuselage is finished and I am ready to move on to
either mounting and plumbing the engine - or begining the process of wiring
and installing the panel (I have already have the engine as well as the wire
and electronics and instruments). Any suggestions on which I should start
first? Also, I don't want to put it up on the gear until absolutely
necessary. Thanks in advance!
Mike Sices
RV8 QB
Kenosha, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder tip rib and counterbalance skin |
Brian,
Join the club. I got the same stuff on my -6A, because I got the -8 tail.
Mine was a little too big as well, but there is enough fiberglass material
there to allow you to sand until it does fit. If you end up sanding too
much away, just reinforce it with a little glass inside.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage on order)
>From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder tip rib and counterbalance skin
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:45:38 -0400
>
>
>Ok everyone,
>
>When drilling and riveting on my 803 top rib to the spar in the rudder,
>I found the 8 1/16" dim on the plans
>
>to show how far forward to set the rib. I riveting it on along with the
>counterbalance skin. The problem is now that
>
>my rudder is in the jig and all the holes are drilled, I wanted to see
>how the fiberglass top fairing was going to fit.
>
>It doesn't! The tip is about 1/8" - 3/16" to long! The manuals states
>that this tip should come with an open end. Mine does
>
>not have an open end, it is molded complete with a little relief in the
>front bottom so it can go down inside the front of the counterbalance
>
>skin.
>
>Will I have to cut this off and make a new closure for this tip? Why is
>it the wrong size? Did I goof or did the mold maker goof?
>
>
>Brian Chesteen
>
>RV7A
>
>Emp (Rudder)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuff for sale: |
YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real MAN,
just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather than let
the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out there
must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there are many
of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had prepunched
holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes you will
see people who start long after you finish long before you, but remember,
YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins in
restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't possibly
understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's flying you
will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give you a
good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still alive down
there in cuba. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Dean,
>
> Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep my eye on
> your postings. Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skinning top of fuse |
Gordon,
I am not at the fuselage stage of construction on my airplane yet, but I
have helped another RV builder on his -6. You definitely need a helper on
this one. If you lay inside the fuse and use the small back rivet set that
you used with the empennage, it will work well. The individual holding the
back rivet bucking bar doesn't need to be great at it, because you are doing
all the work on the shop head. Just find someone who is willing to stand
there and hold a heavy object for a couple of hours. On the subject of
shimming, I agree with all the other posters, but have a suggestion. My
friend Rick Galati recently retired from over 30 years at Boeing
(McDonnell-Douglas, etc.) building fighters, and he uses fiberglass resin
mixed with cotton flox to stuff into those voids between the skin and the
bulkheads. It closely approximates the "liquid shim" technique he used for
the big boys, and works very well. Just let it set up overnight, re-drill
the holes and voila! You have a perfectly sized and shaped (probably
lighter, too) shim that will not be damaged by setting the rivet. I'm going
to use that method myself.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage on order)
>From: "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Skinning top of fuse
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 05:47:40 -0700
>
>
>Hi folks,
>
>I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. Glad to have the list back up
>again.
>
>I am just starting on the turtle deck of my RV8. So far I have managed to
>do everything solo, with no bucking bar helper. But the top deck may just
>defeat me.
>
>Has anyone done it solo? If so, how? I dont think the skin will bend
>out
>of the way to stretch an arm in like I could do on the wing, because of its
>curvature. I am thinking of either trying to make a really clever fixture
>to hold the bucking bar and using backriveting from inside the fuse (one
>by
>one) or using cherrymax Pop rivets from the outside.
>
>Any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>RV8 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | John S. Questions |
John,
The Absorber torsion arm is mounted securily to either the mount or the
engine. We can secure it to a stand but, then the aircraft has to be
jigged somewhat to limit movement on the stand.
The Dyno is cooled by water flow.
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid fluid fittings question |
Dave,
The secret is using a thread lube, turn until very tight, loosen, tighten
again, loosen, tighten again, until its pointed where you want. Each time
you tighten it, it goes just a bit further around.
Rick Caldwell
-6 melbourne. fl
>From: <nauga(at)brick.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Stupid fluid fittings question
>Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:36:30 -0500
>
>
>OK, so I'm running fuel, oil, and brake lines
>all over the cockpit. When using an angle
>fitting like the AN822, how do you adjust the angle?
>Seems like in almost every case to get the fitting
>pointed in the direction I want it's either too loose
>to hold or so tight I'm afraid I'm going to strip the
>fitting. No jam nut, so what am I missing here?
>
>Dave 'fitting a throw' Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Order of Operations |
I would do engine first. Make sure you have all of your hoses and such
plumbed, oil cooler installed, oil filter, etc, etc. This way you know
exactly how much room you have and where you can have wires coming through
the firewall.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Sices" <michaelsices(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Order of Operations
>
>
> I am at a point where the fuselage is finished and I am ready to move on
to
> either mounting and plumbing the engine - or begining the process of
wiring
> and installing the panel (I have already have the engine as well as the
wire
> and electronics and instruments). Any suggestions on which I should start
> first? Also, I don't want to put it up on the gear until absolutely
> necessary. Thanks in advance!
>
> Mike Sices
> RV8 QB
> Kenosha, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes Hayes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | The First 10 Hours on N601RD |
Listers,
FWIW, I seem to remember that the -4's do not have the problems with oil or
cylinder head temps that the -6's seem to experience. I have a couple of
friend with 4's and they all run cooler than my -6.
My -6 had some uneven temps on the CHT's at first but the dams in front of
#1 and #2 leveled them out pretty good. CHT's are usually around 190C to
200C (375F? to 400F?) in cruise @ 75% power. They drop to less if I throttle
back. If I climb out too steep, #1 CHT starts to climb pretty rapidly. I
usually try to climb out at about 125 to 130 mph and the temps stay @190C to
200C.
Oil temps have been a different story. In the hot West Texas summers, the
oil temps have gotten as high as 225 to 230 when slowing down for a landing
and taxiing back to the hanger. In cruise the temps are pretty consistently
185F to 203F. The highest oil temp was when we went to OSH. After slowing
down to 90K at Ripon, the oil temps started up from about 185F in cruise.
When we landed it was over 200F and by the time we taxiied to parking, the
temp was about 233F. All the temps are below the Max Cont. Operation range
of 245F in the Operator's manual, but above the desired operating temp of
180F.
I think the baffeling is good and tight, and I have sealed around the engine
to keep the leaks to a minimum.
This is a new engine and the temps came down and stabilized at about 10 to
15 hours. I did run it according to Lycoming recommended break in
procedures.
Currently I am proceeding under the assumption that it is the oil cooler
that is the problem. I am waiting on a new "improved" Positech oil cooler
and we will see how much difference that makes. If that is not it, I will
move on to something else. In the winter, I have had to close the air going
to the cooler to keep the temps in the 185F to 200F range.
I do know this, each installation seems to be different. My oil cooler is FW
mounted and another friend with an O-320 has a similiarly mounted cooler and
has absolutely no cooling problems. Another friend who built an -8 is also
experiencing high oil temps in cruise, but his oil temps cool down when the
power comes off and during taxi. Go figure?
If anyone out there has experienced any similiar problems, I would welcome
any thoughts or suggestions. It is not an unmanagable problem. I just want
to run closer to the desired operating temps recommend in the engine
operator's manual.
Sorry for the long post.
Keep your airspeed up!
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
N844WB
152 trouble free hours. This is really a great plane.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Perry
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
How many hours of break-in time is typical?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:07:23 -0500
>
>
>I concur. I see 400 to 420 at most power settings in the summer on my
>VM1000 with two-point calibrated CHT probes. And new engines tend to run
>much, much hotter until they are broken in.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 99.4 hours
>Hampshire, IL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:40 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>
>
> >
> > Really?? I've just never heard of anyone running head temps that low.
> > Every RV I've ever flown in has been close to 400 or a little over
>(except
> > when I flew in yours, but then it was my first ride in one and my grin
>was
> > so big it obscured my eyes....especially when I was upside down.
>).
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Mike, why do you think that is not right? 300 is about where mine
> > > runs in cruise.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing Alclad |
For what it is worth, all the aluminum surfaces on my RV-8QB were scuffed,
then primed by the folks at Vans before assembly. Because the primer is
clear, the scuffing is quite obvious.
The only corrosion I have found thus far (the kit is being assembled in
north Houston - very humid) is on Alclad surfaces. There is a small area on
the outside of the fuselage (none of the outer surfaces were primed) that
seems to correspond with a hand print. The other corrosion I have found is
along the edges of stamped parts under the plastic, and under the plastic
around the lettering that is printed on the bare metal. All of this
corrosion is very minor and easily dealt with, but I was surprised to find
it on a QB that is about a year and a half old.
Kelly Scott
RV-8QB fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing Alclad
>
> I just primed the inside skin of my HS and I didn't scuff it. I cleaned
the
> surface with a PPG cleaner and the primer adhered just fine. However, I
did
> scuff (scotch pad) the ribs and spar. I'm thinking that may have been a
> mistake.
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 Emp
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 9:31 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing Alclad
>
>
> >
> >
> > > As an experiment I scuffed a small piece of Alclad and left it
> > > overnight
> > > in some saltwater along with an unscuffed
> > > piece. Results: scuffed piece was totally covered with erosion.
> > > Unscuffed piece was unaffected. Leads me to
> > > believe that even slight scuffing eliminates any anticorrosion
> > > properties.
> >
> >
> > I must have missed the beginning of this thread...
> > The only reason to scuff the aluminum is for primer or paint to adhere
> > to it. If you leave it a "natural" finish surely you won't be scuffing
> > the skins...
> >
> > ?
> >
> > Mike Thompson
> > Austin, TX
> > -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> > Firewall Forward
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | durosset(at)fidnet.com |
Need some one who can translate the Vans "REQUIRED TOOLS LIST" to what the
catalogs show them as. In particular, what are the following referring to?
Mushroom Set
Cupped Set
Double Offset Cupped Set
Flat Set
Dead Blow Hammer
I have already let my imagionation run rampid on the list, and how each item
related to girls I have dated, but I don't think that will get the fuselage
built...
do not archieve
Darryl
RV3 in many pieces
MO34
(Missouri)
---------------------------------------------
Sent using Fidelity Networks, Inc. Mailman.
http://www.fidnet.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Order of Operations |
> I am at a point where the fuselage is finished and I am ready to move on
to
> either mounting and plumbing the engine - or begining the process of
wiring
> and installing the panel (I have already have the engine as well as the
wire
> and electronics and instruments). Any suggestions on which I should start
> first? Also, I don't want to put it up on the gear until absolutely
> necessary. Thanks in advance!
>
> Mike Sices
> RV8 QB
Mike,
You don't want to be flipping the fuse over to do the gear leg installation
with the engine on, so if you haven't done the gear legs do that next. Then
I'd mount the engine before wiring so that when you wire all the engine
instruments, battery cables, etc., you know exactly how long to make them
and where the optimum locations for firewall penetrations will be.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 111.2 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: jabiru updates |
According to the distributor in Wekasha, "Jabiru USA"
and the
factory in AU http://www.jabiru.net.au/ , the first batch of 10 production units
have been ordered, at least 30 have been reserved (as of about 1 week ago, I think)
and
the scale Spitfire (first installation of prototype) was just waiting for final
prop
install before first flight. The Jabiru website has not been updated in the last
month or
so- there may be new developments by now.
Last I heard, an Australian RV-6A and an RV8 have been "loaned" to the factory
for
firewall-forward package development. They make no secret of the fact they are
going
after the RV market. I did talk to them quite a bit at OSH- she's a mighty-fine
lookin'
motor- keeping a very close eye on this one...
From the PossumWorks
Mark
Tom J wrote:
>
> Seeing that the list has been down and I didn't make it to Osh this year.
> Were there any new developments in the Jabiru 8 cylinder department?
> I would love to hear some positive news but will take cold harsh reality if I
have to.
> Tom
>
> ---------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com> |
Bill,
The RV4 story is long and sorted. I've actually had the kit for "quite some
time" (empenage and wing) and now looking at the prices, wish I had bought
the fuselage and finishing kit at the same time. (can't believe what a deal
I had back when the RV4 was $5600)
I'm going to be taking the RV construction class in Ga next month after a
short "vacation" at Ft Bragg JFKSWC, and then dive head first into
construction.
At present I'm reinventoring the empanage, laying out parts, filing and
smoothing, etc.
I've already got questions, but will hold off until I can articulate them
with some level of coherence. I appreciate the offer of counsel and support
as I'm sure I'll need it. I'm glad I found the "list".
Rick Murphy
NJ, RV4, empenage is out of the box
> ----------
> From: Bill Shook[SMTP:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
>
>
> YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real
> MAN,
> just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather than
> let
> the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
> stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out
> there
> must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
>
> Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there are
> many
> of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had prepunched
> holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes you will
> see people who start long after you finish long before you, but remember,
> YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins in
> restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't possibly
> understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's flying
> you
> will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
>
> Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give you a
> good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still alive
> down
> there in cuba. :-)
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
>
> >
> > Dean,
> >
> > Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep my eye
> on
> > your postings. Rick
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Does anyone have a new or fairly new carb for a 160hp 0-320D3G Lycoming for
sale ?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)maxtor.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
I am ready to epoxy the wood gearleg stiffeners to the aft side of the gear
legs. I can't see a good way to insure that they are positioned properly
with respect to the flight path. Do you just eyeball it and hope for the
best?
Dave Bezinque
RV-6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting wings on an RV-6A |
Nope..you can't reach 'em. George O says to put the plate nuts in first,
then backdrill with a long bit, but I couldn't get enough bend in the bit
and room between the wing and the fuse. Well, I have the 6A and it was all
bolted in through the gear leg sockets and everything, so I wasn't about to
take it all off. I used a strap duplicator underneath and that worked ok.
The only problem with that is that you can't use flush head screws, cause
you can't dimple it with the wing on. I have round head screws under
there....sigh.
But hey, my plane flys at 170KIAS without gear leg fairngs at 2500 RPM, so
I'm not gonna worry too much about some round head screws underneath that
nobody will see unless they are crawling under the airplane or has a really
good pair of binos.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mounting wings on an RV-6A
>
> Don,
>
> I don't think that there is enough room to back drill from the top of the
> wing. It is worth a try, though. You could try it with the 12 inch bit,
> which is flexible. All you need is a pilot hole. You can remove the wing,
> enlarge the holes and fasten your nutplates.
>
> I drilled the holes from the bottom of the airplane.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Jordan [mailto:dons6a(at)juno.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 5:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting wings on an RV-6A
>
>
>
> > While you have the wings on, make sure you layout the
> holes in the
> > lower
> > fuselage skin where the skin overlaps the lower wing.
You
> will need
> > to
> > remove the wings to rivet platenuts into this location.
> >
>
> ****************
> Steve:
>
> Should I pre drill the holes in the wing flange & can I
then
> back drill
> from the top of the wing??
> I think the pattern should be the edge of the flange.
>
> Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A - Arlington , TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighing the RV-6A |
Well....bathroom scales have been used, but.....kind of inaccurate if I say
so. My bathroom scale says I keep gaining weight, and that can't be right!
Seriously, though. If you don't have an FBO at the field, perhaps there is
another FBO that could bring their scales to you. That's what I did. A guy
from 40 miles away brought his scales to me and weighed it right in my
hanger. Cost me $175, but I know it was right.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
>
> I would take the plane to a professional if I could, but we don't have an
> FBO at this field. In fact, we don't have scales either. I really would
like
> any information the folks on the list have to offer about this important
> subject.
>
> Steve Soule
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Take it to your FBO if you have one, and let them weigh it
> on aircraft
> scales.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PerrittMD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
According to the guys and gals at Technical Support at Van's the
wooden supports are not necessary when using the fiberglass landing gear
fairings and I have not used them although I have not flown as yet. Will add
them if necessary after flying. I was not able to do the thing outlined in
the manual so I just eyeballed the fairings and they seem to be quite
straight. Hope this helps you somewhat.
Regards, "Doc" Perritt RV-6
Quickbuild
Wilmington, NC perrittmd(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: He-Man RV-4 stuff |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02:20:56 PM
Well, there ya go. The new RV-4 builders training center is at none other
than Special Warfare Center. Makes a lot of sense to me. Ya gotta eat
snakes and sleep in the mud with leaches if ya wanna build one of these old
birds. Ya gotta be willing to dimple against your forehead and flange with
your teeth. "On your face maggot, crawl through those aluminum shavings,
hit that c-frame with your elbow, debur that hole with your tongue boy. Ya
momma didn't raise a Pulsar builder did she? Thats right Mooney boy, don't
even try, if the good lord wanted ya to have an RV-4 he'd just miracle ya
one."
Now thats motivatin, OOH RAH!!!
Eric
"Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" (at)matronics.com on
08/29/2001 01:39:29 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
Bill,
The RV4 story is long and sorted. I've actually had the kit for "quite some
time" (empenage and wing) and now looking at the prices, wish I had bought
the fuselage and finishing kit at the same time. (can't believe what a deal
I had back when the RV4 was $5600)
I'm going to be taking the RV construction class in Ga next month after a
short "vacation" at Ft Bragg JFKSWC, and then dive head first into
construction.
At present I'm reinventoring the empanage, laying out parts, filing and
smoothing, etc.
I've already got questions, but will hold off until I can articulate them
with some level of coherence. I appreciate the offer of counsel and support
as I'm sure I'll need it. I'm glad I found the "list".
Rick Murphy
NJ, RV4, empenage is out of the box
> ----------
> From: Bill Shook[SMTP:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
>
>
> YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real
> MAN,
> just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather than
> let
> the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
> stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out
> there
> must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
>
> Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there are
> many
> of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had prepunched
> holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes you
will
> see people who start long after you finish long before you, but remember,
> YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins in
> restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't possibly
> understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's flying
> you
> will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
>
> Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give you a
> good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still alive
> down
> there in cuba. :-)
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
>
> >
> > Dean,
> >
> > Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep my eye
> on
> > your postings. Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Lets see if I can screw this up
> Mushroom Set - I wouldn't recommend it. It goes in the rivet gun to rivet
flush rivets. You're better off with the swivel set and the rubber guard.
Maybe some people can use the mushroom set (and maybe I can now also) but I
tended to screw up the skins when I tried it as a novice. The swivel set
can't be beat.
> Cupped Set - for use in the C-Frame tool and squeezer. Used to set
universal head rivets. You're probably not building your own wing spars so
you should just need on size for the 1/8" 470 4-** rivets.
> Double Offset Cupped Set - I think this is a shaft for the 1/8" rivets
that's used in the gun. It's helpful for getting around rib flanges. I've
used mine several times especially in the early stages.
> Flat Set - Used in the squeezer for setting flush rivets. 1/2 of the flat
set is also used when using the cupped set.
> Dead Blow Hammer - Used when dimpling skins and stuff on the C-Frame tool.
It's usually a hammer with some shot in the head so it doesn't bounce around
when you hit something. I bought a cheap plastic hammer and it works ok.
If I was doing it over again, I'd probably buy a rawhide mallet or something
a little better.
You can see some of what I have in the way of tools here:
http://bmnellis.com/tools.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Need some one who can translate the Vans "REQUIRED TOOLS LIST" to what the
> catalogs show them as. In particular, what are the following referring to?
>
>
> I have already let my imagionation run rampid on the list, and how each
item
> related to girls I have dated, but I don't think that will get the
fuselage
> built...
>
> do not archieve
>
> Darryl
> RV3 in many pieces
> MO34
> (Missouri)
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Sent using Fidelity Networks, Inc. Mailman.
> http://www.fidnet.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
Why are you stiffening? The consensus at Van's now is to leave the
stiffeners off. Especially on the nose gear.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)maxtor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment
>
> I am ready to epoxy the wood gearleg stiffeners to the aft side of the
gear
> legs. I can't see a good way to insure that they are positioned properly
> with respect to the flight path. Do you just eyeball it and hope for the
> best?
>
> Dave Bezinque
> RV-6 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
There should be a drawing of this in the manual, but here goes:
1) Lift up the tail and shim to level.
2) Jam a stick between horz stab and floor.
3) String a string from stick along stiffener (parallel to floor and fuselage
center line).
4) Measure from fore and aft center of stiffener to sting and move stiffener to
obtain equal distances (or some variation on this theme).
5) Move stick in or out from fuselage center line and repeat.
The idea, of course, is the string shows the airflow in straight and level
flight.
Finn
"Bezinque, David" wrote:
>
> I am ready to epoxy the wood gearleg stiffeners to the aft side of the gear
> legs. I can't see a good way to insure that they are positioned properly
> with respect to the flight path. Do you just eyeball it and hope for the
> best?
>
> Dave Bezinque
> RV-6 QB
----------------------------------------------------
NetZero Platinum
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
Oops! I forgot one important thing:
Weight needs to be off the gear legs. They must hang "free" just like in flight.
Finn
"Bezinque, David" wrote:
>
> I am ready to epoxy the wood gearleg stiffeners to the aft side of the gear
> legs. I can't see a good way to insure that they are positioned properly
> with respect to the flight path. Do you just eyeball it and hope for the
> best?
>
> Dave Bezinque
> RV-6 QB
>
----------------------------------------------------
NetZero Platinum
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kit for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim
kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. Skins drilled to left wing.
ALL parts (assembled or not) are alodined and primed with Deft epoxy primer
(Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction
is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos included for both kits.
Priced to sell: $5000
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled
kits. The reason for selling is that my wife and I have our first
child on the way and an old house to rebuild first. The tools are not for sale;
I will be keeping them to guarantee that I will build another RV in the near
future!
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-695-1987 home
716-510-0318 cell
skuebler(at)cannondesign.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $8300.00. Please contact offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell)
and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Due to the considerable discussion on the list (prior to its downtime)
concerning angle of attack indicators, my interest was piqued to the
point of ordering an LRI from Al Mojzisik.
Sam,
I've been considering the Lift Reserve Indicator for my 9A. I seem to
remember before the list went down that someone was saying it is only
accurate at 1g. Did you test it in a 2g turn?
Al, feel free to chime in if you've got some information on this.
(Hopefully I won't start a flame war. I'm just trying to learn as much about
this product as possible.)
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A Wings
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | what is "wide deck"? |
I am beginning to seriously look around for an 0-320 for my RV9 and have
heard/read of some "wide deck" models. What does that mean?
(....should I be feeling kinda dumb right now?...)
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9
...get the fuse kit tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
I have read here and in the archives of the artif. horizon requiring an 8
degree tiltin at least some RV's. I have not found that mentioned in my RV9
literature. Am I missing something? Also, since I do not intend to do
aerobatics (...I throw up...) I assume that I don't need a cageable gyro.
Right?
Thanks
Kim Nicholas
RV9
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what is "wide deck"? |
the short answer is that a wide deck is likely to be a newer engine. the base
of the cylinder where it meets the engine case is wider and thicker on a wide
deck. the narrow deck is easily identifyed by every 2 bolts holding the
cylinder on has a stiffening bracket that catches 2 bolts at a time, and the
heads of the bolts are a allen socket head which requires a special wrench.
aparently they had problems with clyinders breaking off, hence the doubler on
the base.
at least that is what i've been told.
scott
tampa
glad to be back, that work cr@p was getting boring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: what is "wide deck"? |
In a message dated 8/29/01 2:34:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> I am beginning to seriously look around for an 0-320 for my RV9 and have
> heard/read of some "wide deck" models. What does that mean?
>
> (....should I be feeling kinda dumb right now?...)
>
> Kim Nicholas
> Seattle
> RV9
> ...get the fuse kit tomorrow!
>
>
>
A wide deck model is determined by the thickness of the base flange on the
cylinders, The wide deck has a little beefier case also. A narrow deck will
have a plate that fits over the cylinder base flange.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tilt in gyro??? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I have read here and in the archives of the artif. horizon requiring an 8
>degree tiltin at least some RV's. I have not found that mentioned in my RV9
>literature. Am I missing something? Also, since I do not intend to do
>aerobatics (...I throw up...) I assume that I don't need a cageable gyro.
>Right?
>
Getting a gyro with tilt makes the horizon line in the instrument line up
more closely with the center of the instrument. In any case, you should
be able to use the adjustment to put the little airplane on the horizon
in level flight.
No, you do not need a cageable gyro. Probably none of us do, although I
have one.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | exploding air compressor tanks |
A while ago we had a longwinding discussion about air tanks...
A member of my EAA chapter 18, had his blow recently.
It was under his stairs in a basement and it ripped the stairs out of
the concrete and 3 foot up.
first indication is rust weakening. i am trying to get pictures. If and
when I will post them here. he did mention parts flying like scrapnel
all around him. He still does not know why he is still alive.........or
can hear..........he didn't for at least 3 hrs....
things to ponder
be carefull out there
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what is "wide deck"? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I am beginning to seriously look around for an 0-320 for my RV9 and have
>heard/read of some "wide deck" models. What does that mean?
>
>(....should I be feeling kinda dumb right now?...)
>
>Kim Nicholas
>Seattle
>RV9
It is two different styles of engine. A wide deck has conventional
looking nuts attaching the cylinders to the crankcase, a narrow deck has
allen screw looking deals. Both styles work. Sometimes you need to know
which kind you have, because some parts are different.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tilt in gyro??? |
I don't know if the panel of the -9 has a tilt in it, but the -6 does.
Check it yourself. Put the airplane in level flight attitude and put an
angle measure thing on it (what's that thing called?) If it has the tilt,
buy the tilt.
If you aren't going to do aerobatics, sure don't get the cageable one. I've
heard if you do light to moderate positve G stuff, that a good quality gyro
without the cage will still be ok. I have a sigmatek non cageable in mine,
but I have yet to do aerobatics.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: tilt in gyro???
>
> I have read here and in the archives of the artif. horizon requiring an 8
> degree tiltin at least some RV's. I have not found that mentioned in my
RV9
> literature. Am I missing something? Also, since I do not intend to do
> aerobatics (...I throw up...) I assume that I don't need a cageable
gyro.
> Right?
>
> Thanks
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve |
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> I've been considering the Lift Reserve Indicator for my 9A. I seem to
> remember before the list went down that someone was saying it is only
> accurate at 1g. Did you test it in a 2g turn?
>
> Al, feel free to chime in if you've got some information on this.
>
> (Hopefully I won't start a flame war. I'm just trying to learn as much about
> this product as possible.)
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A Wings
> Irvine, CA
Mark, you are the third person who has asked me this question, or a
version of it. The answer to it is "no".
Stalls in steep turns (one individual asked if I had stalled the plane
in a steep turn at gross weight...) definitely falls outside my
definition of "routine" flight, and since I am not trained in
aerobatics, and the spin characteristics of the RV-6 have been described
as "exhilarating", (and...aerobatics shouldn't be performed at gross
weight), I have no intention of answering that question.
I realize this is probably a valid question for a comprehensive test of
the LRI. However, I just can't imagine a flight scenario where I would
accidently stall the plane in a steep turn at low airspeed. If I did
screw up so badly as to find myself in that situation (in the
pattern....heaven forbid....?), I doubt that I would be watching the
LRI!
Please enlighten me as to when this would be in issue in "normal" flight
conditions. If aerobatics are performed, I doubt that an aerobatic pilot
would be caught dead flying by no stinkin' LRI gauge....
In my opinion, the LRI has greatest value in takeoff, landing, and glide
scenarios. I have found that the instrument works beautifully for those
purposes.
I will leave the high-G, steep stuff to somebody else...... :-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://hoem.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Temperatures (Was The First 10 Hours on N601RD) |
In a message dated 8/29/01 12:50:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
whays(at)camalott.com writes:
<< Listers,
FWIW, I seem to remember that the -4's do not have the problems with oil or
cylinder head temps that the -6's seem to experience. I have a couple of
friend with 4's and they all run cooler than my -6.
My -6 had some uneven temps on the CHT's at first but the dams in front of
#1 and #2 leveled them out pretty good. CHT's are usually around 190C to
200C (375F? to 400F?) in cruise @ 75% power. They drop to less if I throttle
back. If I climb out too steep, #1 CHT starts to climb pretty rapidly. I
usually try to climb out at about 125 to 130 mph and the temps stay @190C to
200C.
Oil temps have been a different story. In the hot West Texas summers, the
oil temps have gotten as high as 225 to 230 when slowing down for a landing
and taxiing back to the hanger. In cruise the temps are pretty consistently
185F to 203F. The highest oil temp was when we went to OSH. After slowing
down to 90K at Ripon, the oil temps started up from about 185F in cruise.
When we landed it was over 200F and by the time we taxiied to parking, the
temp was about 233F. All the temps are below the Max Cont. Operation range
of 245F in the Operator's manual, but above the desired operating temp of
180F.
I think the baffeling is good and tight, and I have sealed around the engine
to keep the leaks to a minimum.
This is a new engine and the temps came down and stabilized at about 10 to
15 hours. I did run it according to Lycoming recommended break in
procedures.
Currently I am proceeding under the assumption that it is the oil cooler
that is the problem. I am waiting on a new "improved" Positech oil cooler
and we will see how much difference that makes. If that is not it, I will
move on to something else. In the winter, I have had to close the air going
to the cooler to keep the temps in the 185F to 200F range.
I do know this, each installation seems to be different. My oil cooler is FW
mounted and another friend with an O-320 has a similiarly mounted cooler and
has absolutely no cooling problems. Another friend who built an -8 is also
experiencing high oil temps in cruise, but his oil temps cool down when the
power comes off and during taxi. Go figure?
If anyone out there has experienced any similiar problems, I would welcome
any thoughts or suggestions. It is not an unmanagable problem. I just want
to run closer to the desired operating temps recommend in the engine
operator's manual.
Sorry for the long post.
Keep your airspeed up!
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
N844WB
152 trouble free hours. This is really a great plane. >>
I finished and flew my RV-6 a couple of months after a buddy finished and
flew his RV-4. Both aircraft are 160 HP/fixed pitch and have one mag/one
ElectroAir ignition. The airframes are both clean, with few external
antennae. They have similar performance.The biggest difference we see is oil
temperature, with my temperatures running 30-50 degrees higher than his.
(Mine are 200-210F in cruise on a 90F day).
Both aircraft have Niagra oil coolers. (Note, I switched from the Positech,
and saw no measurable improvement).
One day, we started investigating to determine why my oil temps are so much
higher than his, despite very similar engines and oil coolers. We observed
that his RV-4 has air inlets that are probably 25% larger than the ones on my
RV-6. Both aircraft have stock cowls. In addition, the cowling air exit on
the RV-4 is much cleaner than on the RV-6, which adds to better airflow
through the cowl. The exit ramp on the RV-4 is efficient enough that it
actualy draws enough vacuum to suck down his top cowl between the baffles and
firewall. In flight, there is a visible dimple on his aircraft in that area.
For what it is worth, my baffles are much tighter than his, with all small
gaps sealed with RTV. His baffles are well fitted, but have quite a few
small gaps around the engine, etc.
From all of this, we concluded that airflow is the answer, and the RV-4 is
better designed in this area than the RV-6.
As a sidenote, I have discussed the oil cooler issue with the folks at
Pacific Oil Cooler Service. As posted on the list previously, they have a
very bad opinion of the old style Positech coolers. They think Niagra
coolers are fine, but think the Stewart Warner coolers give 10-15% more
cooling for a given cooler size.
My $0.02 on the subject.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 Slider 0-320/Aymar Demuth
Kennesaw, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
snip
Also, since I do not intend to do aerobatics (...I throw up...)
snip
Kim,
Some things we don't need to know.....
But to answer your question, look at your plans. Measure the difference between
the instrument panel and the longerons back by your shoulders (which is the
level part of your fuselage). Should be about 98 degrees.
If that's the case, you'll need to have your gyros built with the 8 degree tilt
modification (done at the time they build/rebuild your gyros).
Happy building.
Laird
RV-6 330 hrs and ready for Homecoming
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what is "wide deck"? |
Kim,
Check out the following link from the Falco crowd:
http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Notes/61003Engines.pdf
Some of it is specific to the Falco installation, but there is some very
good information in there. It should answer your question about wide vs
narrow deck engines.
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 4:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: what is "wide deck"?
>
> I am beginning to seriously look around for an 0-320 for my RV9 and have
> heard/read of some "wide deck" models. What does that mean?
>
> (....should I be feeling kinda dumb right now?...)
>
> Kim Nicholas
> Seattle
> RV9
> ...get the fuse kit tomorrow!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List: I just got very bad news that Cliff no longer sells the "Altitude
Hold"!! Anyone have one for sale?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: exploding air compressor tanks |
How old was the compressor? What size and what brand? I just find it
impossible to believe in this country's legal system any large company would
put out an air compressor that doesn't last at least 10 years without
exploding. One kid killed by a flying compressor and they would be right
out of business.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: exploding air compressor tanks
>
> A while ago we had a longwinding discussion about air tanks...
>
> A member of my EAA chapter 18, had his blow recently.
>
> It was under his stairs in a basement and it ripped the stairs out of
> the concrete and 3 foot up.
>
> first indication is rust weakening. i am trying to get pictures. If and
> when I will post them here. he did mention parts flying like scrapnel
> all around him. He still does not know why he is still alive.........or
> can hear..........he didn't for at least 3 hrs....
>
> things to ponder
>
> be carefull out there
>
> Gert
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tilt in gyro??? |
I was told by Van's tech that the rv9a is the same as the rest and needs
the tilt, too.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have read here and in the archives of the artif. horizon requiring an 8
> degree tiltin at least some RV's. I have not found that mentioned in my RV9
> literature. Am I missing something? Also, since I do not intend to do
> aerobatics (...I throw up...) I assume that I don't need a cageable gyro.
> Right?
>
> Thanks
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9
> Seattle
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
> According to the guys and gals at Technical Support at Van's
> the
> wooden supports are not necessary when using the fiberglass landing
> gear fairings and I have not used them although I have not flown as
> yet. Will add them if necessary after flying. I was not able to do
> the thing outlined in the manual so I just eyeballed the fairings and
> they seem to be quite straight.
That's odd. As I recall, when I called Van's back in 1998 for advice on
this, I was told that they thought the stiffeners WERE needed to
reduce shimmy (even though I was using fiberglass fairings). I
installed them, per the directions (weight off the gear, strings used to
center the wood stiffeners).
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve |
Really? The only time an LRI has any appeal to me at all is in the exact
situation you describe as abnormal and is also the reason the AOA would get
my money. I see an LRI or AOA as being most useful to me when I'm turning
final into a tiny grass strip I've never been to before, realize it's on the
left side of that set of trees, not the right and pull a bit tighter to get
in there. That is when I want something to go BEEP, or ANGLE ANGLE PUSH ME
BABY, or whatever it has to say to let me know I'm getting in too deep.
I've done it before, at sea level, on a chilly day in a Decathylon so I am
certain I am capable of doing it again at high density altitude. That
needle completely negates any appeal the LRI would have for me. I want
something to warn me when I'm NOT looking....not tell me how good I'm doing
when I am looking.
Just another viewpoint.
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Mark Schrimmer wrote:
> >
>
> > Sam,
> >
> > I've been considering the Lift Reserve Indicator for my 9A. I seem to
> > remember before the list went down that someone was saying it is only
> > accurate at 1g. Did you test it in a 2g turn?
> >
> > Al, feel free to chime in if you've got some information on this.
> >
> > (Hopefully I won't start a flame war. I'm just trying to learn as much
about
> > this product as possible.)
> >
> > Mark Schrimmer
> > RV-9A Wings
> > Irvine, CA
>
>
> Mark, you are the third person who has asked me this question, or a
> version of it. The answer to it is "no".
>
> Stalls in steep turns (one individual asked if I had stalled the plane
> in a steep turn at gross weight...) definitely falls outside my
> definition of "routine" flight, and since I am not trained in
> aerobatics, and the spin characteristics of the RV-6 have been described
> as "exhilarating", (and...aerobatics shouldn't be performed at gross
> weight), I have no intention of answering that question.
>
> I realize this is probably a valid question for a comprehensive test of
> the LRI. However, I just can't imagine a flight scenario where I would
> accidently stall the plane in a steep turn at low airspeed. If I did
> screw up so badly as to find myself in that situation (in the
> pattern....heaven forbid....?), I doubt that I would be watching the
> LRI!
>
> Please enlighten me as to when this would be in issue in "normal" flight
> conditions. If aerobatics are performed, I doubt that an aerobatic pilot
> would be caught dead flying by no stinkin' LRI gauge....
>
> In my opinion, the LRI has greatest value in takeoff, landing, and glide
> scenarios. I have found that the instrument works beautifully for those
> purposes.
>
> I will leave the high-G, steep stuff to somebody else...... :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://hoem.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ====================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tmosher(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exploding air compressor tanks |
Considering the moisture the things are prone to (I always got rusty water
out of the one I used when I released the tank pressure at the end of the
day), they rust. Let them rust long enough and blammo - the tank fails at
the lowest point where all the water was collecting.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exploding air compressor tanks
>
> How old was the compressor? What size and what brand? I just find it
> impossible to believe in this country's legal system any large company
would
> put out an air compressor that doesn't last at least 10 years without
> exploding. One kid killed by a flying compressor and they would be right
> out of business.
>
> Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To: ; "rv-list"
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:14 PM
> Subject: RV-List: exploding air compressor tanks
>
>
> >
> > A while ago we had a longwinding discussion about air tanks...
> >
> > A member of my EAA chapter 18, had his blow recently.
> >
> > It was under his stairs in a basement and it ripped the stairs out of
> > the concrete and 3 foot up.
> >
> > first indication is rust weakening. i am trying to get pictures. If and
> > when I will post them here. he did mention parts flying like scrapnel
> > all around him. He still does not know why he is still alive.........or
> > can hear..........he didn't for at least 3 hrs....
> >
> > things to ponder
> >
> > be carefull out there
> >
> > Gert
> >
> > --
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
That was before the nose gear crack I believe. I talked to Van's just
yesterday about this and they said no, because it takes the shock absorbing
qualities out, and makes a crack at the top of the gear leg more likely, as
it transfers the shock to the joint where the leg is held in place.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment
>
>
> > According to the guys and gals at Technical Support at Van's
> > the
> > wooden supports are not necessary when using the fiberglass landing
> > gear fairings and I have not used them although I have not flown as
> > yet. Will add them if necessary after flying. I was not able to do
> > the thing outlined in the manual so I just eyeballed the fairings and
> > they seem to be quite straight.
>
> That's odd. As I recall, when I called Van's back in 1998 for advice on
> this, I was told that they thought the stiffeners WERE needed to
> reduce shimmy (even though I was using fiberglass fairings). I
> installed them, per the directions (weight off the gear, strings used to
> center the wood stiffeners).
>
> Tim
>
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
That's my one reservation about the LRI: no noise. I want an audio
warning...as well as a nice gage to look at. I appreciate the simplicity of
the no-electricity-needed LRI, but I need noise.
Thanks for the insightful review on your website.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lift Reserve
[snip]
> I realize this is probably a valid question for a comprehensive test of
> the LRI. However, I just can't imagine a flight scenario where I would
> accidently stall the plane in a steep turn at low airspeed. If I did
> screw up so badly as to find myself in that situation (in the
> pattern....heaven forbid....?), I doubt that I would be watching the
> LRI!
[snip]
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://hoem.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Coastal Georgia Fall Fly-In |
Come and join us at The Coastal Georgia Fall Fly to be held at Eagle
Neck Air Park (1GA0) on Sept. 15. 11:00-15:00
Eagle Neck is located in a pristine setting on the GA coast half way
between Savannah and St. Simmons Island.
One completed and 4 additional RV projects reside at Eagle Neck.
Email rsipp(at)earthlink.net for details.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jabiru updates |
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom J <tsjryj(at)yahoo.com>
>Seeing that the list has been down and I didn't make it to Osh this year.
>Were there any new developments in the Jabiru 8 cylinder department?
Tom: Jabiru had an 8 cylinder engine on display at Osh. It presents a very
attractive appearance, is quite compact and as shipped is to include baffles
for the cylinders and exhaust system including muffler. There is apparently
no plan to provide for a hydraulic C/S prop, though one could use an
electric. Displacement is 5973 cc and weight is given as 250 pounds.
Claimed power is 180 @ 2700 continuous and 200 @ 3000 intermittant. It is
narrower and less deep than a 4 cyl Lyc but is a bit longer at approx 36".
I don't know about shipping date. Nifty.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: exploding air compressor tanks |
Problem is that there aren't any requirements for Consumer grade tanks...
Tanks that are probably made off shore. Then the manufacturer is more of a
sales concern with little resources.i.e... no deep pockets. AND on the cheap
tanks, you can't check the interior, so you don't know when it will happen
just that it will some day!
ASME approved tanks used industrially are supposed to be hydrostatically
checked every so often.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exploding air compressor tanks
How old was the compressor? What size and what brand? I just find it
impossible to believe in this country's legal system any large company would
put out an air compressor that doesn't last at least 10 years without
exploding. One kid killed by a flying compressor and they would be right
out of business.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: exploding air compressor tanks
>
> A while ago we had a longwinding discussion about air tanks...
>
> A member of my EAA chapter 18, had his blow recently.
>
> It was under his stairs in a basement and it ripped the stairs out of
> the concrete and 3 foot up.
>
> first indication is rust weakening. i am trying to get pictures. If and
> when I will post them here. he did mention parts flying like scrapnel
> all around him. He still does not know why he is still alive.........or
> can hear..........he didn't for at least 3 hrs....
>
> things to ponder
>
> be carefull out there
>
> Gert
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skinning top of fuse |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I did my 6A fuslage solo. I made a 'b-bq spit' so that I can rotate it to
any position. Its a 6 not an 8 tho.
Will be handy when I paint it too.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. Glad to have the list
> back up
> again.
>
> I am just starting on the turtle deck of my RV8. So far I have
> managed to
> do everything solo, with no bucking bar helper. But the top deck
> may just
> defeat me.
>
> Has anyone done it solo? If so, how? I dont think the skin will
> bend out
> of the way to stretch an arm in like I could do on the wing, because
> of its
> curvature. I am thinking of either trying to make a really clever
> fixture
> to hold the bucking bar and using backriveting from inside the fuse
> (one by
> one) or using cherrymax Pop rivets from the outside.
>
> Any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
Acid etch does roughen the aluminum to give it a "tooth" so the paint will
adhere. It's microscopic and I doubt it takes much off. Normally you would
follow acid etch with alodine to seal the surface and then paint. If you do
that you don't need a self etching primer.
When I painted my Comanche. I did the acid etch, alodine and Chromate based
primer before painting. My AI said it was really overkill but the paint
looks great after seven years and not spot of corrosion or pealing anywhere.
Bob
RV8#423 working on fuselage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing Alclad
I wonder if acid etch removes the alclad in the same way as scuffing?
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Marshall" <btmars(at)jps.net>
Subject: RV-List: Removing Alclad
> As an experiment I scuffed a small piece of Alclad and left it overnight
> in some saltwater along with an unscuffed
> piece. Results: scuffed piece was totally covered with erosion.
> Unscuffed piece was unaffected. Leads me to
> believe that even slight scuffing eliminates any anticorrosion
> properties.
> Bob Marshall
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weighing the RV-6A |
I just weighed my 4 last night. I found a stock car guy with scales. Took
about half an hour. It did cost me a beer, but I guess thats not too bad.
Good luck!
Pat Allender
Iowa City
Sending paper work to the feds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: The First 10 Hours on N601RD |
Pat
It (low oil temps) seems to be an RV4 thing. I fly alot with two other 4's
and all of us have low oil temps. I have a cooler out of a 172 on the left
front baffel and it is 90% blocked off and I rarely see oil temps above 140.
Being in the great white north, we don't fly on any really hot days as they
get in the south west but I have been flying with the temp in the 90's this
summer and the oil didn't get much above 170
----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: August 29, 2001 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
>
> CHT's on my -4 with a reman o-320 150HP at 17 hours are 375 on the #3
> cylinder at 2400RPM level flight. The others are all about 50 degrees
less.
> On the first few flights it was impossible to keep the #3 cylinder out of
> redline temps without cutting back to 2200RPM in level flight. It is
still
> easy to get it up to 450-500 in a climb if I don't let the speed up to at
> least 110MPH.
>
> The engine shop (Columbia Aviation) told me to expect the high
temperatures
> until it was completely broke-in.
>
> My oil temp on the other hand is very low. At 100% power 2700RPM and
190MPH
> the tem will build up to 175 after 15 minutes. At eny other lower power
> setting the temp falls to 140 or below. This is with the oil cooler
blocked
> off.
>
> Dean's oil temp is somewhat low also. Is this a typical trait of RV-4's?
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>
>
> >From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
> >Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:07:23 -0500
> >
> >
> >I concur. I see 400 to 420 at most power settings in the summer on my
> >VM1000 with two-point calibrated CHT probes. And new engines tend to run
> >much, much hotter until they are broken in.
> >
> >Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 99.4 hours
> >Hampshire, IL
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:40 PM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: The First 10 Hours on N601RD
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Really?? I've just never heard of anyone running head temps that low.
> > > Every RV I've ever flown in has been close to 400 or a little over
> >(except
> > > when I flew in yours, but then it was my first ride in one and my grin
> >was
> > > so big it obscured my eyes....especially when I was upside down.
> >).
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Mike, why do you think that is not right? 300 is about where mine
> > > > runs in cruise.
> > > >
> > > > Jerry
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve |
I agree with Bill on this one - I'll bet ya most guys who have an
inadvertent stall weren't looking at the airspeed just prior to the
stall. So why should we think that they would have been looking at an LRI?
An AOA indicator without audio or stick shaker may have value to get the
max performance when doing short field operations, but it doesn't really
have any value as a stall warning device. I doubt that many guys with
flying RVs really need to cut 100 ft off the landing or take-off roll, so
I'm wouldn't buy an LRI just to improve the short field performance.
Just my $0.03 Cdn worth. YMMV,
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>Really? The only time an LRI has any appeal to me at all is in the exact
>situation you describe as abnormal and is also the reason the AOA would get
>my money. I see an LRI or AOA as being most useful to me when I'm turning
>final into a tiny grass strip I've never been to before, realize it's on the
>left side of that set of trees, not the right and pull a bit tighter to get
>in there. That is when I want something to go BEEP, or ANGLE ANGLE PUSH ME
>BABY, or whatever it has to say to let me know I'm getting in too deep.
>I've done it before, at sea level, on a chilly day in a Decathylon so I am
>certain I am capable of doing it again at high density altitude. That
>needle completely negates any appeal the LRI would have for me. I want
>something to warn me when I'm NOT looking....not tell me how good I'm doing
>when I am looking.
>
>Just another viewpoint.
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Forward Bottom Skin Insulation |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am about to begin riviting the forward bottom skins on to fuselage of my
RV-8 and trying to decide if some kind of insulation could be installed
between floor and outer skins. I searched the arcives and did not find
anything about this. I know the plans call for using pro seal to seal the
skins and ribs but thought someone might have installed some kind of
lighweight foam insulation and if so was it worth it? Reply to list or to me
at edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com. Thanks:
PS If anyone is thinking of installing the alumunum gear, I bought mine
from Hammerhead. Fit but the gear legs are thicker and the steel mounting
brackets are much higher. They require some modifications to the skins and
the cross braces on the belly. Mine are also gun drilled for the brake
lines and that required some changes to mounting the brake lines. If anyone
needs more details contact me and I will explane the changes required.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City Fl/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com> |
Oh my GOD I'm glad this list is back online. I feel as though I've been
living in a sensory deprivation tank for weeks. But now, praise the lord
and hallelujah, real live heerows like Henson and Shook are back on my
computer screen again. Damn I wish I could pronounce Sempurr Phy
Delicatessen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: He-Man RV-4 stuff
Well, there ya go. The new RV-4 builders training center is at none
other
than Special Warfare Center. Makes a lot of sense to me. Ya gotta eat
snakes and sleep in the mud with leaches if ya wanna build one of these
old
birds. Ya gotta be willing to dimple against your forehead and flange
with
your teeth. "On your face maggot, crawl through those aluminum shavings,
hit that c-frame with your elbow, debur that hole with your tongue boy.
Ya
momma didn't raise a Pulsar builder did she? Thats right Mooney boy,
don't
even try, if the good lord wanted ya to have an RV-4 he'd just miracle
ya
one."
Now thats motivatin, OOH RAH!!!
Eric
"Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" (at)matronics.com on
08/29/2001 01:39:29 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
Bill,
The RV4 story is long and sorted. I've actually had the kit for "quite
some
time" (empenage and wing) and now looking at the prices, wish I had
bought
the fuselage and finishing kit at the same time. (can't believe what a
deal
I had back when the RV4 was $5600)
I'm going to be taking the RV construction class in Ga next month after
a
short "vacation" at Ft Bragg JFKSWC, and then dive head first into
construction.
At present I'm reinventoring the empanage, laying out parts, filing and
smoothing, etc.
I've already got questions, but will hold off until I can articulate
them
with some level of coherence. I appreciate the offer of counsel and
support
as I'm sure I'll need it. I'm glad I found the "list".
Rick Murphy
NJ, RV4, empenage is out of the box
> ----------
> From: Bill Shook[SMTP:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
>
>
> YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real
> MAN,
> just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather
than
> let
> the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
> stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out
> there
> must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
>
> Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there
are
> many
> of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had
prepunched
> holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes you
will
> see people who start long after you finish long before you, but
remember,
> YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins
in
> restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't possibly
> understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's
flying
> you
> will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
>
> Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give you
a
> good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still alive
> down
> there in cuba. :-)
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
>
> >
> > Dean,
> >
> > Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep my
eye
> on
> > your postings. Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
Yeah man, it is good to be back at it. Lots of humor floats around this
list...and it sure makes the day go faster. Especially if you sit at a
desk all day like Eric Henson. A couple days after the list went down I
drove down to South Florida and met Charlie Kuss at his ocean side residence
in paradise (jerk) and then over to Eric Henson's house. A group of us
assaulted a local drinking establishment and did our best to drink all the
beer in the place. Falling well short of that (because Charlie wasn't
pulling his weight) we somehow all got home. Early morning breakfast with
the EAA crowd came way too early but again..everyone made it. I got to see
Eric's project, and his hangermate's poor neglected, but otherwise beautiful
RV-6 and the most amazing thunder mustang I've ever laid my eyes on. A
great trip that I will repeat...as soon as Eric's wife recovers from the
carnage. She did a great job of drinking with the boys...but I'm not sure
she ever got out of bed the next day. :-)
There's nothing like RV people.....
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Whoray
>
> Oh my GOD I'm glad this list is back online. I feel as though I've been
> living in a sensory deprivation tank for weeks. But now, praise the lord
> and hallelujah, real live heerows like Henson and Shook are back on my
> computer screen again. Damn I wish I could pronounce Sempurr Phy
> Delicatessen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:23 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: He-Man RV-4 stuff
>
>
> Well, there ya go. The new RV-4 builders training center is at none
> other
> than Special Warfare Center. Makes a lot of sense to me. Ya gotta eat
> snakes and sleep in the mud with leaches if ya wanna build one of these
> old
> birds. Ya gotta be willing to dimple against your forehead and flange
> with
> your teeth. "On your face maggot, crawl through those aluminum shavings,
> hit that c-frame with your elbow, debur that hole with your tongue boy.
> Ya
> momma didn't raise a Pulsar builder did she? Thats right Mooney boy,
> don't
> even try, if the good lord wanted ya to have an RV-4 he'd just miracle
> ya
> one."
>
> Now thats motivatin, OOH RAH!!!
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" (at)matronics.com on
> 08/29/2001 01:39:29 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
>
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> The RV4 story is long and sorted. I've actually had the kit for "quite
> some
> time" (empenage and wing) and now looking at the prices, wish I had
> bought
> the fuselage and finishing kit at the same time. (can't believe what a
> deal
> I had back when the RV4 was $5600)
>
> I'm going to be taking the RV construction class in Ga next month after
> a
> short "vacation" at Ft Bragg JFKSWC, and then dive head first into
> construction.
>
> At present I'm reinventoring the empanage, laying out parts, filing and
> smoothing, etc.
>
> I've already got questions, but will hold off until I can articulate
> them
> with some level of coherence. I appreciate the offer of counsel and
> support
> as I'm sure I'll need it. I'm glad I found the "list".
>
> Rick Murphy
> NJ, RV4, empenage is out of the box
>
> > ----------
> > From: Bill Shook[SMTP:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:33 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
> >
> >
> > YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real
> > MAN,
> > just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather
> than
> > let
> > the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
> > stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out
> > there
> > must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
> >
> > Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there
> are
> > many
> > of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had
> prepunched
> > holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes you
> will
> > see people who start long after you finish long before you, but
> remember,
> > YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins
> in
> > restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't possibly
> > understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's
> flying
> > you
> > will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
> >
> > Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give you
> a
> > good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still alive
> > down
> > there in cuba. :-)
> >
> > Bill
> > -4 wings
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Dean,
> > >
> > > Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep my
> eye
> > on
> > > your postings. Rick
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve |
Uh, maybe I'm missing something here, but I installed an LRI (LED version)
in my -8A and it has an audible alarm. Don't know about the analog version
though.......
Walt Shipley RV8-A Finishing
----------
> From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Lift Reserve
> Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:47 PM
>
>
> That's my one reservation about the LRI: no noise. I want an audio
> warning...as well as a nice gage to look at. I appreciate the simplicity
of
> the no-electricity-needed LRI, but I need noise.
>
> Thanks for the insightful review on your website.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:39 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lift Reserve
> [snip]
> > I realize this is probably a valid question for a comprehensive test of
> > the LRI. However, I just can't imagine a flight scenario where I would
> > accidently stall the plane in a steep turn at low airspeed. If I did
> > screw up so badly as to find myself in that situation (in the
> > pattern....heaven forbid....?), I doubt that I would be watching the
> > LRI!
> [snip]
> > Sam Buchanan
> > "The RV Journal" http://hoem.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV-8 Forward Bottom Skin Insulation |
We did not put insulation in - very very hot floor.
Went back and added it - as much as would fit, Huge improvement.
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed O'Connor"
I am about to begin riviting the forward bottom skins on to fuselage of my
RV-8 and trying to decide if some kind of insulation could be installed
between floor and outer skins. I searched the arcives and did not find
anything about this. I know the plans call for using pro seal to seal the
skins and ribs but thought someone might have installed some kind of
lighweight foam insulation and if so was it worth it? Reply to list or to me
at edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com. Thanks:
PS If anyone is thinking of installing the alumunum gear, I bought mine
from Hammerhead. Fit but the gear legs are thicker and the steel mounting
brackets are much higher. They require some modifications to the skins and
the cross braces on the belly. Mine are also gun drilled for the brake
lines and that required some changes to mounting the brake lines. If anyone
needs more details contact me and I will explane the changes required.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City Fl/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exploding air compressor tanks |
I was going to post this but Gert beat me to it.
The compressor was at least 15 years old, brand unknown. He said he hadn't used
it in a few years, and sparingly before that. It was under a garage staircase
which took the brunt of the blast. Only damage to the plane was a ding in one
wingtip (Glasiar 2, not an RV thank God.)
Jeff Point
-6 fuse coming tomorrow!
Milwaukee, WI
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> How old was the compressor? What size and what brand? I just find it
> impossible to believe in this country's legal system any large company would
> put out an air compressor that doesn't last at least 10 years without
> exploding. One kid killed by a flying compressor and they would be right
> out of business.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve |
The analog version has no alarms.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>Uh, maybe I'm missing something here, but I installed an LRI (LED version)
>in my -8A and it has an audible alarm. Don't know about the analog version
>though.......
>
>Walt Shipley RV8-A Finishing
>
>----------
> > From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Lift Reserve
> > Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:47 PM
> >
> >
> > That's my one reservation about the LRI: no noise. I want an audio
> > warning...as well as a nice gage to look at. I appreciate the simplicity
>of
> > the no-electricity-needed LRI, but I need noise.
> >
> > Thanks for the insightful review on your website.
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
> > Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > Web: http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:39 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lift Reserve
> > [snip]
> > > I realize this is probably a valid question for a comprehensive test of
> > > the LRI. However, I just can't imagine a flight scenario where I would
> > > accidently stall the plane in a steep turn at low airspeed. If I did
> > > screw up so badly as to find myself in that situation (in the
> > > pattern....heaven forbid....?), I doubt that I would be watching the
> > > LRI!
> > [snip]
> > > Sam Buchanan
> > > "The RV Journal" http://hoem.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Last thing to finish before the fuse kit arrives tomorrow:
The right flap fit like a glove, aligned with the already mounted
aileron with no problems. The left flap, however, sticks a good 3/8
inch past the aileron (at the trailing edge) with the hinge line as far
forward is it will go.
I figure I will just trim 3/8 from the rear of the bottom skin and mount
the flap. How could this have happened? With the pre-punched skins it
is hard to be off by much. Anyone else encounter this problem?
Jeff Point
-6 fuse kit arrives tomorrow!
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
09:21:40 AM
Personally I think thats hilarious. I can't begin to imagine that Vans thin
glass fairings could dampen anything other than airflow. Heck, they are
fixed to the plane by little tabs and heater hose clamps. The things are
1/16th of an inch thick. No way is that going to dampen shimmy on a 6 or a
6A. I personally have talked to many RV builders that retro'd the wood
stiffeners on due to shimmy problems and it made a big difference. Never
met anyone that said, "gee, with I would not have put on stiffeners". They
are easy to do, ya might as well.
Eric
"Tim Lewis" (at)matronics.com on 08/29/2001 08:00:32 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment
> According to the guys and gals at Technical Support at Van's
> the
> wooden supports are not necessary when using the fiberglass landing
> gear fairings and I have not used them although I have not flown as
> yet. Will add them if necessary after flying. I was not able to do
> the thing outlined in the manual so I just eyeballed the fairings and
> they seem to be quite straight.
That's odd. As I recall, when I called Van's back in 1998 for advice on
this, I was told that they thought the stiffeners WERE needed to
reduce shimmy (even though I was using fiberglass fairings). I
installed them, per the directions (weight off the gear, strings used to
center the wood stiffeners).
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. MacIntyre" <macintyr(at)vims.edu> |
| Subject: | Stand for RV8 wings. |
Am building RV8 quickbuild, and need a wing stand. I plan to make the stand
from plans by Tony Bingelis ( Sport Aviation 12/87) unless someone offers a
better stand design . All comments regarding RV wing stands would be
appreciated.
Thanks. Bill MacIntyre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
YEAH! *and the "other" counseling he's referring to can be gotten at any
good Quack in the Box (Psychologist). I personally recommend the
electro-shock therapy... although the self administered "Drill, de-burr,
counter-sink (or dimple), & rivet your thumb" therapy is a good/cost
effective replacement.
Hey Bill... missed hearing you while the list was grounded.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
> YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another real
MAN,
> just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather than
let
> the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need no
> stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us out
there
> must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
>
> Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there are
many
> of us out there for your support.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stand for RV8 wings. |
Go take a look at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/files/Wing%20Carts/
I chose the style at wing-104.jpg because it will allow me to work on
wiring, pitot, etc. on the cart. I modified the design to add some
removable "outrigger" arms to stabilize the cart when it's not necessary to
move it.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuselage ordered
----- Original Message -----
From: "William G. MacIntyre" <macintyr(at)vims.edu>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: Stand for RV8 wings.
>
> Am building RV8 quickbuild, and need a wing stand. I plan to make the
stand
> from plans by Tony Bingelis ( Sport Aviation 12/87) unless someone offers
a
> better stand design . All comments regarding RV wing stands would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks. Bill MacIntyre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Scuffing before you prime |
This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely everyone I have
talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red scothbrite pads)
before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire project... I also
noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I forgot to scuff
- mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a self-etching primer.
Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it tomorrow
... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead again...
:)
Are
RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
Are,
This won't be another priming discussion, but I plan to solve any priming
issues by fogging the interior yearly with anti-corrosion spray. There are
various products for doing this. The important thing is NOT to do this
before painting because the stuff gets in all of the seams and is impossible
to remove completely, or so I understand.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuselage ordered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red
scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire
project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I
forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
self-etching primer.
> Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it
tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead
again... :)
>
> Are
> RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap allignment |
For my left wing, I took a suggestion from the RVAtor, and left the top skin
off my flap until the aileron and bottom flap skin and spar were mounted to
the wing. Then, the top skin can be moved fore and aft until the trailing
edge lines up with the aileron. The downside to doing this is that the
prepunched holes in the top flap skin did not leave me enough edge distance
on the flap spar once the top skin was in position. Doh! I fixed it by
fabricating an extension to the spar flange out of 0.040, so adequate E.D.
could be had. The bottom line is that the flap lines up beautifully with
the aileron. I plan to do the same with the right wing.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage on order)
>From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Flap allignment
>Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 08:21:40 -0500
>
>
>Last thing to finish before the fuse kit arrives tomorrow:
>
>The right flap fit like a glove, aligned with the already mounted
>aileron with no problems. The left flap, however, sticks a good 3/8
>inch past the aileron (at the trailing edge) with the hinge line as far
>forward is it will go.
>
>I figure I will just trim 3/8 from the rear of the bottom skin and mount
>the flap. How could this have happened? With the pre-punched skins it
>is hard to be off by much. Anyone else encounter this problem?
>
>Jeff Point
>-6 fuse kit arrives tomorrow!
>Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected O-320?
Thanks to all.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage on order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Scuffing and Priming Alcad |
Guys,
Thought I'd put my 3.65 cents in (adjusted for price increase) on this
thread.
First, we're comparing Alcad and non-Alcad components here. The skins
are Alcad where most if not all your other components (ribs, stiffeners,
etc.) are not.
As I've said before, whether you etch or scuff the primary concern is to
CLEAN the base metal before you prime. It should be a continuous process
form etching or scuffing to cleaning to priming with no major time
breaks. Scuffing or etching on one day and waiting a week to clean and
prime, you just defeated your purpose. The metal generally has already
started to dirty (corrode) on a microscopic level and the substraint
protection and adhesion will be reduced unless you re-do the process.
We generally take this approach, if it's Alcad we etch, if it's
non-Alcad we scuff. In some situations where we're looking for deeper
penetration of the primer (floor panels or high moisture contact) or if
the component is real dirty we scuff with the etching . We use gloves
when prepping the metal so the oil from hand prints doesn't contaminate
the clean metal.
Last, use compatible systems from cleaning to topcoat. Any deviation
will result in headaches down the road.
Jim D. RV-7A N708JD (sorry, not a manly -4 but, I like it!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
One more thing on scuffing in regards to Are's listing. FYI, the "Red"
Scotch-Brite is concidered to have a 220-240 grit cutting ability, where
the "Green" is a 320-380 grit ability.
J.D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Please explain the gyro tilt. does this effect the function of the gyro?
Will the 0 degree work? is it only the attitude indicator? Does the 6A
have the tilt?
Best wishes,
John Furey RV6A 130 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Ah, the twitching will subside soon... |
Hope this works...
I don't know about you folks, but the RV-List withdrawal symptoms were getting
pretty bad. (Twitch, Ack!) I was beginning to think there was no nope until I
read the updates from Matt. (Twitch, Ack!) I'm very glad the list is back up.
(Twitch, Ack!) Once people start the traffic back up again I'll be better.
As a first time home builder and soon to be RV-7 builder, I value the information
from this list. (Twitch, Ack!)
Thanks Matt for sticking with it and bringing things back online!
Kevin Schlosser
Aka: PropellerHead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Airstrip America |
Just a cute website I ran into on rec.aviation.homebuilt. My airstrip
doesn't have a photo yet. Guess I'll have to send them one. It's kind of
like Pilot's Guide to California Airports. I always liked that book because
it has an actual aerial photo of the airport. That can be very handy if
you've never flown into a given airport before.
URL: http://www.airstripamerica.com/
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV Finishing cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
>
>Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
>carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
>cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
>might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
>
>Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
>could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected O-320?
>
>Thanks to all.
>
>Jim Bower
Jim,
It depends on which engine model you've got, and how much extra work you
want to do. Most models of F.I. Lycomings have the fuel injection unit on
the bottom of the sump, in the same place a carb would be. The air inlet
to the F.I. unit is in roughly the same place as the air inlet to the
carb. So, you have the same options.
Some F.I. engine models have the F.I. unit mounted on either the forward or
aft end of the oil sump, which gives you other options or problems (I think
an aft mounted injector might interfere with your nose gear). Van used the
200 hp IO-360-A series on the RV-8. This engine has a forward facing F.I.
unit, which allowed him to craft a snorkel type duct which takes air from
the bottom of the right cowl cooling air inlet, which means there is no ram
air scoop on the bottom of the cowl. I understand that it is a lot of work
to mount this engine on an RV-6/6A, as Van's cowling won't fit without a
lot of extra work. There may be some IO-320 models with forward facing
fuel injectors, so it might be possible to copy the RV-8 snorkel
arrangement, but it would be a lot of work.
I do agree that the ram air scoop detracts from the clean lines of the
aircraft.
Take care,
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
(613) 821-7862 (home)
(613) 952-4319 (work)
6730 Parkway Rd.
Greely, ON
K4P 1E3
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing and Priming Alcad |
Jim Duckett wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
> Thought I'd put my 3.65 cents in (adjusted for price increase) on this
> thread.
> First, we're comparing Alcad and non-Alcad components here. The skins
> are Alcad where most if not all your other components (ribs, stiffeners,
> etc.) are not.
Just to clear up a common misconception; the ribs, bulkheads, and
stiffeners are indeed Alclad. Only the extruded parts are not Alclad.
The dull finish on the ribs and bulkheads is due to the forming process,
not a lack of Alclad.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6. 306 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Jim,
I just picked up my new (well rebuilt) IO-320 from Ly-Con in Visalia and
paid about $10-k. I'm not saying that's the "usual" price, but it's the
best price I could find after over 2 years of looking.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
> Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
>
> Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
> could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
O-320?
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings (Fuselage on order)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Jim,
Van had an article in a past RVator describing how the pressure loss of the
snorkel system was minimal. The ram inlet however, gives a reported 1" to 1
1/2" pressure increase. For this reason I will be going with a bottom
mounted servo and the intake scoop.
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
> Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
>
> Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
> could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
O-320?
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings (Fuselage on order)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Vince,
Yes, he had 2 hours to plan the landing, and he did. He decided to land on
the runway with a functional running engine. IMHO, he made the right choice.
Obviously you disagree, but the pilot followed his plan and it worked out
just fine for him. As, if you're ever in his shoes, I hope yours works out
for you.
Bruce
Glasair III
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gear up landing |
I agree with you Tim. You always know the runway is hard and you don;t how
soft the ground is. That may cause you to flip. Save your butt screw the
plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Vosberg <Roy.Vosberg(at)veritas.com> |
I hear it is fairly common for float planes to make gear up landings (that's
because the gear is up in the loft of the hanger) on grass runways that are
heavy with dew or wet from rain, when they need to make the change over to
wheels (or ski's) in the fall.
Roy RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Scuffing before you prime |
Are,
I will give you $100 plus shipping for your scrap!
Jack
Des Moines
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely everyone
I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red
scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire
project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I
forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
self-etching primer.
Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it
tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead
again... :)
Are
RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
That's ridiculous Jack!!! I want at least double that... ;)
It was interesting to hear Sam's statement BTW - I also thought that the ribs weren't
Alclad but have scuffed all of it anyway. I don't think it will do too
much harm since I know of at least one RV-4 locally that was first flown in 1985
and still no corrosion inside the skins. It was lightly scuffed and primed
with self etching primer.
Are
RV-8
>
> From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
> Date: 2001/08/30 Thu PM 01:56:07 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
> Are,
> I will give you $100 plus shipping for your scrap!
> Jack
> Des Moines
> RV8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:16 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
>
> This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely everyone
> I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red
> scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire
> project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I
> forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
> self-etching primer.
> Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it
> tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead
> again... :)
>
> Are
> RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Yep, I remember assisting in that type of operation back in Illinois when I
was learning to fly and was your typical 'airport kid'. We used to wet down
the sod runway and the float planes (J-3's) would land with little
difficulty. The big problem was moving them to the hangar.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roy Vosberg
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 2:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: gear up landing
I hear it is fairly common for float planes to make gear up landings (that's
because the gear is up in the loft of the hanger) on grass runways that are
heavy with dew or wet from rain, when they need to make the change over to
wheels (or ski's) in the fall.
Roy RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airstrip America |
AirstripAmerica....yes, it's a 'cute' web site.
They advertised that a free Garmin GPS would be awarded to someone
(drawing, or best shot? I don't know) who sent in a aerial shot of an
airport.
To my knowledge they never gave a Garmin GPS to anyone. Seems a bit strange;
perhaps even sleazy.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav Antena, for rv6? |
It exists...it's a comant CI-182 IIRC...I have one - got it from Chief IIRC.
Nav + GS/loc
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB
Got my finish kit today!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | avdub(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
Am not certain, but believe the no wood stiffeners necessary applies only to
the nose gear (RV6A). I have added the stiffeners to my main gear legs based
on instructions in the assembly manual.
Dick S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | avdub(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
Am not certain, but believe the no wood stiffeners necessary applies only to
the nose gear (RV6A). I have added the stiffeners to my main gear legs based
on instructions in the assembly manual.
The alignment instructions are quite specific and are a pain to accomplish,
but it works. Correct alignment by eyeballing is near impossible.
Dick S
-----Original Message-----
From: Bezinque, David <David_Bezinque(at)maxtor.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:10 PM
Subject: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment
>--> RV6-List message posted by: "Bezinque, David"
>
>I am ready to epoxy the wood gearleg stiffeners to the aft side of the gear
>legs. I can't see a good way to insure that they are positioned properly
>with respect to the flight path. Do you just eyeball it and hope for the
>best?
>
>Dave Bezinque
>RV-6 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Parking brake valve |
I have 'rescued' a nice Cleveland parking brake valve from a dead Rallye aircraft
and re-built it with viton seals. It has a knob to operate the valve via a
6" shaft with approx 90 degrees between ON and OFF positions. It also has a microswitch
operated by a cam, maybe for config warning or an idiot light - and
yes, that's what I will use it for!
I really want to use this valve - BUT - the outlets are set up for 3/16 aluminium
tube with compression fittings. I am thinking of using 3/16 OD Nylo-Seal tubing
between the valve and the brake calipers, and using 3/16 brass Poly-Flo
fittings.
Can anyone see any problem with using the smaller tubing? The pressure rating
is the same, but I do not know if inserts are required in the smaller tubing
or if they are where I can get them? Advice please anyone? John Kent RV-4
#3254.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting wings on an RV-6A |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Paul:
I was wondering how to find the wing rib flange from below. I am planning
on removing the wings after I drill to deburr & demple & trim the skin
based on the hole pattern. If the 12 incher don't do it , I think I will
try my 90 degree.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A - Arlington , TX
writes:
>
>
> Nope..you can't reach 'em. George O says to put the plate nuts in
> first,
> then backdrill with a long bit, but I couldn't get enough bend in
> the bit
> and room between the wing and the fuse. Well, I have the 6A and it
> was all
> bolted in through the gear leg sockets and everything, so I wasn't
> about to
> take it all off. I used a strap duplicator underneath and that
> worked ok.
> The only problem with that is that you can't use flush head screws,
> cause
> you can't dimple it with the wing on. I have round head screws
> under
> there....sigh.
>
> But hey, my plane flys at 170KIAS without gear leg fairngs at 2500
> RPM, so
> I'm not gonna worry too much about some round head screws underneath
> that
> nobody will see unless they are crawling under the airplane or has a
> really
> good pair of binos.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 2:19 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Mounting wings on an RV-6A
>
>
>
> >
> > Don,
> >
> > I don't think that there is enough room to back drill from the top
> of the
> > wing. It is worth a try, though. You could try it with the 12 inch
> bit,
> > which is flexible. All you need is a pilot hole. You can remove
> the wing,
> > enlarge the holes and fasten your nutplates.
> >
> > I drilled the holes from the bottom of the airplane.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Don Jordan [mailto:dons6a(at)juno.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 5:22 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting wings on an
> RV-6A
> >
>
> >
> >
> > > While you have the wings on, make sure you
> layout the
> > holes in the
> > > lower
> > > fuselage skin where the skin overlaps the lower
> wing.
> You
> > will need
> > > to
> > > remove the wings to rivet platenuts into this
> location.
> > >
> >
> > ****************
> > Steve:
> >
> > Should I pre drill the holes in the wing flange &
> can I
> then
> > back drill
> > from the top of the wing??
> > I think the pattern should be the edge of the
> flange.
> >
> > Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A - Arlington , TX
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
Seem to recall to pull the radios and encoder before fogging. Interior
cushions might be a good idea too...
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> Are,
>
> This won't be another priming discussion, but I plan to solve any priming
> issues by fogging the interior yearly with anti-corrosion spray. There
are
> various products for doing this. The important thing is NOT to do this
> before painting because the stuff gets in all of the seams and is
impossible
> to remove completely, or so I understand.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> RV-8 fuselage ordered
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
> >
> > This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
> everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use
red
> scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my
entire
> project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas
I
> forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
> self-etching primer.
> > Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order
it
> tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be
ahead
> again... :)
> >
> > Are
> > RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Forward Bottom Skin Insulation |
Ed
i think the main concerns what the insulation will avsorb over time...
Gert
Ed O'Connor wrote:
>
>
> I am about to begin riviting the forward bottom skins on to fuselage of my
> RV-8 and trying to decide if some kind of insulation could be installed
> between floor and outer skins. I searched the arcives and did not find
> anything about this. I know the plans call for using pro seal to seal the
> skins and ribs but thought someone might have installed some kind of
> lighweight foam insulation and if so was it worth it? Reply to list or to me
> at edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com. Thanks:
> PS If anyone is thinking of installing the alumunum gear, I bought mine
> from Hammerhead. Fit but the gear legs are thicker and the steel mounting
> brackets are much higher. They require some modifications to the skins and
> the cross braces on the belly. Mine are also gun drilled for the brake
> lines and that required some changes to mounting the brake lines. If anyone
> needs more details contact me and I will explane the changes required.
>
> Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City Fl/N366RV
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
I am using a DA sander with 400 grit to prep it for paint. Lightly scuffing
is not happening here..MAJOR SCUFFING!! I have seen many pro's do this.
With proper priming and painting, corrosion is not an issue. Don't sweat
it!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 7:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red
scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire
project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I
forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
self-etching primer.
> Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it
tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead
again... :)
>
> Are
> RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com> |
Whoa, a Thunder Mustang. There but for a major lottery win go I. (Dern,
I'd even settle for a Stewart.) I saw Ryan Falconer at an air show one
time, and asked him "how much for just the engine" ($70,000). He asked
why I would want just the engine. I told him it was one of the seven
wonders of the aviation world, and I wanted to build a coffee table out
of it, put it in the living room, and just look at it. He some how
failed to see the logic in that.
Griff
RV-8 (pre-punch? Yeah...you know one of those where you hold up a part,
and it kind of looks like one of those things you steam vegetables in?)
Hanging wings (second time) [ don't ask, it was a tragedy only
Shakespeare could have improved upon].
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Shook
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Whoray
Yeah man, it is good to be back at it. Lots of humor floats around this
list...and it sure makes the day go faster. Especially if you sit at a
desk all day like Eric Henson. A couple days after the list went down I
drove down to South Florida and met Charlie Kuss at his ocean side
residence
in paradise (jerk) and then over to Eric Henson's house. A group of us
assaulted a local drinking establishment and did our best to drink all
the
beer in the place. Falling well short of that (because Charlie wasn't
pulling his weight) we somehow all got home. Early morning breakfast
with
the EAA crowd came way too early but again..everyone made it. I got to
see
Eric's project, and his hangermate's poor neglected, but otherwise
beautiful
RV-6 and the most amazing thunder mustang I've ever laid my eyes on. A
great trip that I will repeat...as soon as Eric's wife recovers from the
carnage. She did a great job of drinking with the boys...but I'm not
sure
she ever got out of bed the next day. :-)
There's nothing like RV people.....
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Whoray
>
> Oh my GOD I'm glad this list is back online. I feel as though I've
been
> living in a sensory deprivation tank for weeks. But now, praise the
lord
> and hallelujah, real live heerows like Henson and Shook are back on my
> computer screen again. Damn I wish I could pronounce Sempurr Phy
> Delicatessen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:23 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: He-Man RV-4 stuff
>
>
> Well, there ya go. The new RV-4 builders training center is at none
> other
> than Special Warfare Center. Makes a lot of sense to me. Ya gotta eat
> snakes and sleep in the mud with leaches if ya wanna build one of
these
> old
> birds. Ya gotta be willing to dimple against your forehead and flange
> with
> your teeth. "On your face maggot, crawl through those aluminum
shavings,
> hit that c-frame with your elbow, debur that hole with your tongue
boy.
> Ya
> momma didn't raise a Pulsar builder did she? Thats right Mooney boy,
> don't
> even try, if the good lord wanted ya to have an RV-4 he'd just miracle
> ya
> one."
>
> Now thats motivatin, OOH RAH!!!
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" (at)matronics.com on
> 08/29/2001 01:39:29 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
>
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> The RV4 story is long and sorted. I've actually had the kit for "quite
> some
> time" (empenage and wing) and now looking at the prices, wish I had
> bought
> the fuselage and finishing kit at the same time. (can't believe what a
> deal
> I had back when the RV4 was $5600)
>
> I'm going to be taking the RV construction class in Ga next month
after
> a
> short "vacation" at Ft Bragg JFKSWC, and then dive head first into
> construction.
>
> At present I'm reinventoring the empanage, laying out parts, filing
and
> smoothing, etc.
>
> I've already got questions, but will hold off until I can articulate
> them
> with some level of coherence. I appreciate the offer of counsel and
> support
> as I'm sure I'll need it. I'm glad I found the "list".
>
> Rick Murphy
> NJ, RV4, empenage is out of the box
>
> > ----------
> > From: Bill Shook[SMTP:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:33 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuff for sale:
> >
> >
> > YEAH! Did you read THAT all your prepunched sissy boys? Another
real
> > MAN,
> > just started an RV-4. Yup, he's going to build it HIMSELF, rather
> than
> > let
> > the girls at Van's prepunch the whole thing for him. He don't need
no
> > stinking prepunching. Yessir, knowing there are real men like us
out
> > there
> > must make all of you 'prepunchies' feel pretty low.
> >
> > Uh, Rick...when you need some counseling.....and you will.....there
> are
> > many
> > of us out there for your support. Yes, you will wish you had
> prepunched
> > holes about 15000 times between now and your finish date, and yes
you
> will
> > see people who start long after you finish long before you, but
> remember,
> > YOU are more of a man then they are. We also assist at major flyins
> in
> > restraining you from wringing Van's neck. I know...you can't
possibly
> > understand why at this point...but you WILL. ;-) Once it's
> flying
> > you
> > will revert back to thinking Van is a god. Or so I'm told.
> >
> > Hey Henson....you're still an ugly jarhead. Just thought I'd give
you
> a
> > good kick now that the list is back up...to be sure you're still
alive
> > down
> > there in cuba. :-)
> >
> > Bill
> > -4 wings
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Dean,
> > >
> > > Just starting my RV4. Didn't see anything I wanted but will keep
my
> eye
> > on
> > > your postings. Rick
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Scuffing before you prime |
Okay... I'll bite, what do you "fog" it with?
----- Original Message -----
From: jayeandscott <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> Seem to recall to pull the radios and encoder before fogging. Interior
> cushions might be a good idea too...
> Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:11 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
> >
> > Are,
> >
> > This won't be another priming discussion, but I plan to solve any
priming
> > issues by fogging the interior yearly with anti-corrosion spray. There
> are
> > various products for doing this. The important thing is NOT to do this
> > before painting because the stuff gets in all of the seams and is
> impossible
> > to remove completely, or so I understand.
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> >
> > RV-8 fuselage ordered
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:15 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> >
> >
> > >
> > > This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
> > everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use
> red
> > scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my
> entire
> > project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of
areas
> I
> > forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used
a
> > self-etching primer.
> > > Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll
order
> it
> > tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be
> ahead
> > again... :)
> > >
> > > Are
> > > RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injection vs. carburator |
What is the snorkle system?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kelly A. Scott
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:30 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Van had an article in a past RVator describing how the pressure
> loss of the
> snorkel system was minimal. The ram inlet however, gives a
> reported 1" to 1
> 1/2" pressure increase. For this reason I will be going with a bottom
> mounted servo and the intake scoop.
>
> Kelly
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
>
> >
> > Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> > carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> > cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> > might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
> >
> > Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they
> are. Also,
> > could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
> O-320?
> >
> > Thanks to all.
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > RV-6A N143DJ
> > Wings (Fuselage on order)
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Gear Leg Stiffners |
Here you are guys! Use those stiffeners on the main gear only.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Green <tomg(at)vansaircraft.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Stiffners
> Tom, the only stiffeners that we don't recommend are the NOSE
> gear leg ones.... go ahead on the mains.... Tom at Van's
>
> Forwarded by: "Support"
> Forwarded to: tomg
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To: "Support"
> Subject: Gear Leg Stiffners
>
> I am building an RV6-A-QB and was about to install the main gear leg
> stiffeners when I heard Van's no longer recommends it?
> Is this true? Why?
>
Thanks
> Tom Ervin
> #60362
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Airstrip America |
Isn't it true that by law they have to disclose the names of any prize
winners? You could check if you are really interested. Maybe you'd catch
them being sleazy.
-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:fasching(at)amigo.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 2:07 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airstrip America
AirstripAmerica....yes, it's a 'cute' web site.
They advertised that a free Garmin GPS would be awarded to
someone
(drawing, or best shot? I don't know) who sent in a aerial
shot of an
airport.
To my knowledge they never gave a Garmin GPS to anyone.
Seems a bit strange;
perhaps even sleazy.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Airstrip America |
I got an e-mail about the give-a-way...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD -
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hello Fellow Pilots!
Thank you for sending in aerial photos of your airports. We've had a
tremendous
response from pilots all over the country (yes, Canada too), and now have
one of
the largest aerial photo databases on the internet.
Some pilots have been asking what type of photos to submit to the database.
Here's a sampling of some of the photos that make this site more helpful to
the
pilot community:
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?alm
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?ipl
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?mrh
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?aus
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?rmg
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/apt_info?OJC
http://www.airstripamerica.com/cgi-bin/show_photos?1352
Photos higher up and further out would probably be more useful than a shot
over
the numbers (although we don't want to discourage photos of any kind!). If
there is already a photo of a particular airport on our site, remember that
photos taken in various atmospheric conditions and times of days will also
be
helpful for pilots flying in for the first time.
The winner of the GARMIN III Pilot GPS is Karen Moore of Tulsa, OK.
Congratulations Karen!
http://www.airstripamerica.com/winner.html
Once again, thank you for supporting the site.
Yours sincerely,
David Soyka
Airstrip America
http://www.airstripamerica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> Okay... I'll bite, what do you "fog" it with?
>
Some time (many years) ago the A&P's used to use a mix of 50% mineral oil and
50% vaseline. The two are boiled together until mixed then "fogged" with a
normal paint gon to all the interior surfaces including the inside of all the
tubing they could get to. This was mainly used for the float planes but will
work for most any plane. Only adds about 5 pounds or so to the empty weight.
Rocky "Trim Tab"
RV9-A EMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Jim,
Here's another idea, and one I plan to use:
Lycoming does make an engine with forward facing carb (-M1A, used on Katana) and
I was considering that. After talking with Bart Lalonde from Aerosport Power at
Oshkosh this year, he suggested this: take the sump and induction from an IO-360
and mount to the parallel valve 0-360. Some cutting and splicing of the pipes
is required, but Bart said he would do this no extra charge. Then you have the
benefit of forward facing servo, with the tuned induction of the IO engine.
Wait, it gets better:
While bouncing this idea off Scott McDaniels and Ken Krueger, Scott suggested
using the IO-360 cowl (no scoop) from the RV7, and the Vans snorkel for the
intake. "But Scott, isn't the cowl different?" asked I. Nope, same firewall
(outer dimensions) as the 6, the 7 cowl will fit a 6. So there's your solution:
IO sump mounted to your engine, with an RV7 cowl.
I plan to take this one step further and graft a smaller scoop to the cowl
bottom for unfiltered ram air. A small scoop, properly faired, would be much
less drag than Vans stock scoop (I would think so, anyway.) So my induction
system is 3 way: filtered air via snorkel for ground ops and TO/Landing, ram air
at altitude, plus an alternate air source inside the cowling.
I have yet to see this setup on a flying plane. There is probably a reason for
that, and I don't believe that no one has thought of it. Any opinions?
Jeff Point
-6 fuse kit here tomorrow!
Milwaukee, WI
Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
>
> Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
> could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected O-320?
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings (Fuselage on order)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Larry,
The "snorkel" is a fiberglass duct that runs from just in front of the front
cylinder on the left side to the forward facing servo at the bottom of the
engine. It makes several turns along the way. Since induction air is now
coming in via the left cowl inlet, the intake scoop is not necessary.
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
> What is the snorkle system?
>
> Larry Bowen
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kelly A. Scott
> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:30 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Van had an article in a past RVator describing how the pressure
> > loss of the
> > snorkel system was minimal. The ram inlet however, gives a
> > reported 1" to 1
> > 1/2" pressure increase. For this reason I will be going with a bottom
> > mounted servo and the intake scoop.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> > > carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> > > cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and
it
> > > might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
> > >
> > > Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they
> > are. Also,
> > > could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
> > O-320?
> > >
> > > Thanks to all.
> > >
> > > Jim Bower
> > > St. Louis, MO
> > > RV-6A N143DJ
> > > Wings (Fuselage on order)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 gear leg stiffener alignment |
In a message dated 8/30/2001 6:26:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
> > According to the guys and gals at Technical Support at Van's
> > the
> > wooden supports are not necessary when using the fiberglass landing
> > gear fairings and I have not used them although I have not flown as
> > yet. Will add them if necessary after flying. I was not able to do
> > the thing outlined in the manual so I just eyeballed the fairings and
> > they seem to be quite straight.
>
> That's odd. As I recall, when I called Van's back in 1998 for advice on
> this, I was told that they thought the stiffeners WERE needed to
> reduce shimmy (even though I was using fiberglass fairings). I
> installed them, per the directions (weight off the gear, strings used to
> center the wood stiffeners).
>
Listers,
I could be mistaken about this but my understanding of the advice from
Van's is that the wood stiffeners are Not Recommended on the new improved
nose gear leg but that they are still the recommended way to dampen excess
springyness in the main gear legs.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing before you prime |
Best I could come up with was a old-fashioned, pump action, garden
insecticide fogger- about a pint-size metal tin under the sprayer tip with a
sort-of horizontal-stroke bicycle pump soldered to it. I just held it up to
the inspection hole and pumped away until I saw mist coming out of the tip
and root. Seemed to work as the seams and skin laps weeped for months
afterwards. Used ACF-50 but could have used Corrosion-X...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Rabaut <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> Okay... I'll bite, what do you "fog" it with?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jayeandscott <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
> >
> > Seem to recall to pull the radios and encoder before fogging. Interior
> > cushions might be a good idea too...
> > Scott
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Are,
> > >
> > > This won't be another priming discussion, but I plan to solve any
> priming
> > > issues by fogging the interior yearly with anti-corrosion spray.
There
> > are
> > > various products for doing this. The important thing is NOT to do
this
> > > before painting because the stuff gets in all of the seams and is
> > impossible
> > > to remove completely, or so I understand.
> > >
> > > Steve Johnson
> > >
> > > RV-8 fuselage ordered
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:15 AM
> > > Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
> > > everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I
use
> > red
> > > scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my
> > entire
> > > project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of
> areas
> > I
> > > forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather
used
> a
> > > self-etching primer.
> > > > Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll
> order
> > it
> > > tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be
> > ahead
> > > again... :)
> > > >
> > > > Are
> > > > RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
[snip]
>Now a question about stick grips: I saw a stick grip on a 6A not
>long ago which intrigued me. It had a military look to it and the
>PTT switch was a trigger on the forward side that you depress
>with the index finger. I didn't get to ask the builder about it.
I had one of those stick grips and ended up selling it without installing
it. The trigger pressure was pretty stiff and it was a "rightie" and since I
have a left-seat PIC RV-6, it just didn't fit.
I ended up not having any stick grip at all, just a PTT on the top of the
stick. At the fly-ins I often get asked about this. People seem to think
that I "skimped" for some reason, but it was intentional. Before finishing
my plane I had the opportunity to fly a number of RVs, and I just found that
I prefer the straight stick. Since I spend a lot of the time cruising, with
my elbow on my knee, and my hand holding the stick down below where the grip
would be, it just works better for me. Not trying to tell anyone how to do
theirs -- possibly serious aerobatics types will want something more
substantial to hold on to, for example. Although I've never felt the need in
the "gentleman's aerobatics" that I engage in. Something to consider anyway.
A side note about the Cleaveland PTT cap/switch -- I had to de-solder the
switch at one point, and the heat completely ruined the switch they had in
there and I had to replace it. The switch they used was apparently some kind
of cheapo one with a non-heat resistant plastic body. I replaced it with one
with a good phenolic body. Hopefully they've changed that by now but it'd be
worth asking of you order one from them. Other than that I've always found
Cleaveland's stuff to be first rate.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Weighing the RV-6A |
Dean,
I think I can get scales for the weekend from the Essex High School aviation
tech program. I should know later today.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
[mailto:pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:42 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
Steve,
I had my -4 weighed by a "mobile" service that came to the
hangar to weigh
the aircraft. This was a "certified" weighing and cost me
$175. The
outfit is in Wilmington, MA, so it's far from Huntington. I
learned of
them by asking around the FBO's in Bedford. You may have
similar luck at
BTV. Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT must be able to weigh
since they
paint.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Stephen J. Soule" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/29/01 05:32 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
|
I would take the plane to a professional if I could, but we
don't have an
FBO at this field. In fact, we don't have scales either. I
really would
like
any information the folks on the list have to offer about
this important
subject.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Take it to your FBO if you have one, and let
them weigh it
on aircraft
scales.
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one
of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may
contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the
addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you
are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as
possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
On our recent trip, we were fortunate enough to get a tour of the Ly-Con
digs at Visalia, CA. They were super nice and showed us all the things they
were doing. If you are looking for an engine, I would recommend looking at
them very seriously. Great folks and a quality product.
Wes Hays
N844WB
Winters, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:40:01 AM
Our good buddy Boyd has exactly what you propose and was nice enough to
send pictures of it. The man is an ARTEISTE! My scanner just went heels up
so I can't scan the pics yet but I will soon. BTW, last I heard an RV-6
was being made available to the Team Rocket boys to fab a airscoop like the
F-1 rocket boys have. Let me tell ya, that is one sweet assembly. So don't
get too far ahead yet, you may have a really cool option coming to ya down
the road. By the way, the sump you want is off a Decathalon.
Eric Henson
Jeff Point (at)matronics.com on 08/31/2001 12:32:22 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
Jim,
Here's another idea, and one I plan to use:
Lycoming does make an engine with forward facing carb (-M1A, used on
Katana) and
I was considering that. After talking with Bart Lalonde from Aerosport
Power at
Oshkosh this year, he suggested this: take the sump and induction from an
IO-360
and mount to the parallel valve 0-360. Some cutting and splicing of the
pipes
is required, but Bart said he would do this no extra charge. Then you have
the
benefit of forward facing servo, with the tuned induction of the IO engine.
Wait, it gets better:
While bouncing this idea off Scott McDaniels and Ken Krueger, Scott
suggested
using the IO-360 cowl (no scoop) from the RV7, and the Vans snorkel for the
intake. "But Scott, isn't the cowl different?" asked I. Nope, same
firewall
(outer dimensions) as the 6, the 7 cowl will fit a 6. So there's your
solution:
IO sump mounted to your engine, with an RV7 cowl.
I plan to take this one step further and graft a smaller scoop to the cowl
bottom for unfiltered ram air. A small scoop, properly faired, would be
much
less drag than Vans stock scoop (I would think so, anyway.) So my
induction
system is 3 way: filtered air via snorkel for ground ops and TO/Landing,
ram air
at altitude, plus an alternate air source inside the cowling.
I have yet to see this setup on a flying plane. There is probably a reason
for
that, and I don't believe that no one has thought of it. Any opinions?
Jeff Point
-6 fuse kit here tomorrow!
Milwaukee, WI
Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
>
> Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are. Also,
> could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
O-320?
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings (Fuselage on order)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
This is an option from Van's? So I could have a snoot-less lower cowl, even
though I'm using an O-360?
Thx.
--- "Kelly A. Scott" <kscott@hal-pc.org> wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> The "snorkel" is a fiberglass duct that runs from just in front of the front
> cylinder on the left side to the forward facing servo at the bottom of the
> engine. It makes several turns along the way. Since induction air is now
> coming in via the left cowl inlet, the intake scoop is not necessary.
>
> Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | *Was "Scuffing before you prime"... now "Fogging" |
Yea, I might try the ACF-50 or Corrosion-X but I don't think I'd used boiled
vaseline & mineral oil.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: jayeandscott <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
> Best I could come up with was a old-fashioned, pump action, garden
> insecticide fogger- about a pint-size metal tin under the sprayer tip with
a
> sort-of horizontal-stroke bicycle pump soldered to it. I just held it up
to
> the inspection hole and pumped away until I saw mist coming out of the tip
> and root. Seemed to work as the seams and skin laps weeped for months
> afterwards. Used ACF-50 but could have used Corrosion-X...
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Chuck Rabaut <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> To: RV-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:59 PM
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
>
>
> >
> > Okay... I'll bite, what do you "fog" it with?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jayeandscott <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Seem to recall to pull the radios and encoder before fogging. Interior
> > > cushions might be a good idea too...
> > > Scott
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:11 AM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > Are,
> > > >
> > > > This won't be another priming discussion, but I plan to solve any
> > priming
> > > > issues by fogging the interior yearly with anti-corrosion spray.
> There
> > > are
> > > > various products for doing this. The important thing is NOT to do
> this
> > > > before painting because the stuff gets in all of the seams and is
> > > impossible
> > > > to remove completely, or so I understand.
> > > >
> > > > Steve Johnson
> > > >
> > > > RV-8 fuselage ordered
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> > > > To:
> > > > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 9:15 AM
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Scuffing before you prime
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely
> > > > everyone I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I
> use
> > > red
> > > > scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with
my
> > > entire
> > > > project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of
> > areas
> > > I
> > > > forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather
> used
> > a
> > > > self-etching primer.
> > > > > Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll
> > order
> > > it
> > > > tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll
be
> > > ahead
> > > > again... :)
> > > > >
> > > > > Are
> > > > > RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weighing the RV-6A |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
08/31/2001 08:40:23 AM
Hi Steve,
Good luck with the weigh-in. I'm getting close to the end of my 25 hours
of test flight. Last evening, I flew with 100lbs of lead in the back seat
to check the handling before I start carrying passengers. It definitely
lost a little climb performance, but seemed to fly and land just fine.
I'm still a little leery about 200+ pound passengers, though. When do you
expect to make your first test flight? I presume you will fly from BTV?
Regards,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Stephen J. Soule" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/31/01 05:12 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
|
Dean,
I think I can get scales for the weekend from the Essex High School
aviation
tech program. I should know later today.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
[mailto:pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:42 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
Steve,
I had my -4 weighed by a "mobile" service that came to the
hangar to weigh
the aircraft. This was a "certified" weighing and cost me
$175. The
outfit is in Wilmington, MA, so it's far from Huntington.
I
learned of
them by asking around the FBO's in Bedford. You may have
similar luck at
BTV. Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT must be able to
weigh
since they
paint.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Stephen J. Soule" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/29/01 05:32 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
|
I would take the plane to a professional if I could, but we
don't have an
FBO at this field. In fact, we don't have scales either. I
really would
like
any information the folks on the list have to offer about
this important
subject.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Take it to your FBO if you have one, and
let
them weigh it
on aircraft
scales.
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or
one
of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may
contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the
addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you
are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as
possible.****
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Hello again old friends...
With regards to stick grips, I'm about to put mine on and was wondering....
Do you guys cut the sticks down a bit prior to putting the grips on for
good. The sticks seem a bit long (tall). How tall is correct? Does
everybody use them the length that comes from Vans? What about the
passenger side... treated the same as the pilot side?
thanks, and thanks for showing up on my computer again!
jim
Tampa
6A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Weighing the RV-6A |
I'll take off from Shelburne and probably make the first landing at BTV.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com [mailto:pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com]
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
Hi Steve,
Good luck with the weigh-in. I'm getting close to the end of my 25 hours
of test flight. Last evening, I flew with 100lbs of lead in the back seat
to check the handling before I start carrying passengers. It definitely
lost a little climb performance, but seemed to fly and land just fine.
I'm still a little leery about 200+ pound passengers, though. When do you
expect to make your first test flight? I presume you will fly from BTV?
Regards,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Stephen J. Soule" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/31/01 05:12 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
|
Dean,
I think I can get scales for the weekend from the Essex High School
aviation
tech program. I should know later today.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
[mailto:pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:42 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
Steve,
I had my -4 weighed by a "mobile" service that came to the
hangar to weigh
the aircraft. This was a "certified" weighing and cost me
$175. The
outfit is in Wilmington, MA, so it's far from Huntington.
I
learned of
them by asking around the FBO's in Bedford. You may have
similar luck at
BTV. Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT must be able to
weigh
since they
paint.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Stephen J. Soule" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/29/01 05:32 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
|
I would take the plane to a professional if I could, but we
don't have an
FBO at this field. In fact, we don't have scales either. I
really would
like
any information the folks on the list have to offer about
this important
subject.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Take it to your FBO if you have one, and
let
them weigh it
on aircraft
scales.
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or
one
of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may
contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the
addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you
are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as
possible.****
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear up landing |
Thanks Randall,
It has been getting pretty bad lately. It's hard to
believe that two people who are pilots would take a
gear up landing onto the list and show the world that
they don''t know that such a matter is a judgement that
includes weather, time of year, terrain, fuel on boaerd etc.
Well anyway, thanks for having the guts to say
something about it.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
posts related to RVs at some level"?
> Sorry to be a nag.... responses off-line PLEASE.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
> Portland, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- "Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
>
>
> Hello again old friends...
>
> With regards to stick grips, I'm about to put mine on and was
> wondering....
> Do you guys cut the sticks down a bit prior to putting the grips on
Hey Jim,
I used Infinity grips and after researching in the archives and talking
with more folks, I used Van's original length - which means I did cut
the stick down so that with the grip attached the over-all length is
the same as it started out.
Some said they cut theirs down further due to interference with the
panel but even though I have a switch sub-panel, I have an inch or so
before the top of the stick touches anything
Mike Thompson (just another Bozo) ;)
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jim,
We had to cut down our stick (front) to allow it to clear the panel, with
the grip installed (Infinity). BTW it works great - Trim on the top, trigger
for Comm, Left top flap toggle switch, right top Start button, Left side
WIG-Wag switch, lowere left Ident switch.
We also cut the rear seat stick significantly shorter than the front
(pilot's) to allow pilot to overpower passanger action (if required.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (flying)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
I am using grips in my RV6 that I have only seen in one other RV. Here
is more info:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
The grips were still available in 1999 but I have not checked since
then. Several pilots have commented on how comfortable the grips are and
the price is certainly right if you don't need a bunch of switches on
the grip. They work well with either hand.
But if did over again......I would probably go the same route as
Randall, with possibly some bicycle handlebar tape on the upper portion
of the stick. The only time I use the grip is on take-offs and landings
(except when executing wild and viscous accelerated stalls in steep
turns ;-) ).
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 306 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> I ended up not having any stick grip at all, just a PTT on the top of the
> stick. At the fly-ins I often get asked about this. People seem to think
> that I "skimped" for some reason, but it was intentional. Before finishing
> my plane I had the opportunity to fly a number of RVs, and I just found that
> I prefer the straight stick. Since I spend a lot of the time cruising, with
> my elbow on my knee, and my hand holding the stick down below where the grip
> would be, it just works better for me. Not trying to tell anyone how to do
> theirs -- possibly serious aerobatics types will want something more
> substantial to hold on to, for example. Although I've never felt the need in
> the "gentleman's aerobatics" that I engage in. Something to consider anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Welding questions |
Folks,
Have any of you welded (or had someone else weld for you) your bellcrank
to aileron pushrod assemblies?
In looking at how the end fits in, I think that I should have a space
between the flange and the tube about the thickness of the tubing for
the weld to grab on to. What I mean is that the threaded piece would
not be pushed all the way in to the tube.
Comments please...
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR (rsvd)
Inventoried my finish kit yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gear up landing |
In a message dated 8/30/01 11:25:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
>
> I hate to come off as a "list policeman", but how does the subject of
> gear-up landings fit with the part in the official RV-List Usage Guidelines
> that says to "Please keep posts related to RVs at some level"? I guess it
> might be if you stretch it, since there are, I think, TWO RG RVs in
> existence....
>
> I know it's fun to banter this stuff back and forth, but there are aviation
> forums such as rec.aviation.homebuilt where people can discuss all of the
> non-rv stuff to their heart's content. The RV-List (the unfortunate hiatus
> notwithstanding) has IMHO gotten way too bloated with extraneous stuff,
> making it difficult to sift through and find useful information, and I for
> one would like to see people be a little more consciencous about sticking to
> the usage guidelines.
>
> Sorry to be a nag.... responses off-line PLEASE.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
>
Excuse me, but what does your nagging post have to do with RV related
contentent?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Van's Control Cables |
----- Original Message -----
From: <APeterson(at)sjm.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: Van's Control Cables
> The Tuthill cable is the big black knobbed sort, as supplied by Vans for
the
> trim. ACS makes the mixture, etc. ones.
>
> ACS Products Company, PO. Box 152, 1585 Copper Drive, Lake
> Havasu City, Arizona 86403-0008 (520) 855-8613
>
> Alex Peterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/31/01 5:43:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
> Hello again old friends...
>
> With regards to stick grips, I'm about to put mine on and was wondering....
> Do you guys cut the sticks down a bit prior to putting the grips on for
> good. The sticks seem a bit long (tall). How tall is correct? Does
> everybody use them the length that comes from Vans? What about the
> passenger side... treated the same as the pilot side?
>
> thanks, and thanks for showing up on my computer again!
>
> jim
> Tampa
> 6A Finishing
>
>
>
The length of the stick is more a personal preference, keep it as long as you
can and still be comfortable. The shorter you make it the less leverage you
will have.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Welding questions |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
08/31/2001 11:24:06 AM
I had my pushrod assemblies welded. I filed a small chamfer on the outside
of the tube to create a small "gap" for the weld bead. It seemed to work
fine. I also squirted a small amount of oi (1cc) into the tube prior to
welding the second fitting. I hope this oil will coat the interior
surface and prevent internal corrosion.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
15 hours
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Ralph E. Capen" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 08/31/01 10:24 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Welding questions
|
Folks,
Have any of you welded (or had someone else weld for you) your bellcrank
to aileron pushrod assemblies?
In looking at how the end fits in, I think that I should have a space
between the flange and the tube about the thickness of the tubing for
the weld to grab on to. What I mean is that the threaded piece would
not be pushed all the way in to the tube.
Comments please...
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR (rsvd)
Inventoried my finish kit yesterday!
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighing the RV-6A |
>
> I'm at the point of weighing my RV-6A. Apart from finding scales,
>
>snip
>
> What would you do differently if you were to weigh your airplane again?
>
I have weighed four or five RVs along with a Lancair. I use a set of digital
race car scales that read to the nearest pound. I think these are the way to
go if you can locate a set.
Tools needed:
scales
4 ft. level
2 ft (or smaller) level
2 plumb bobs w/strings
duct tape
pen, paper, calculator etc.
The scales only sit a couple of inches high so I built a set of simple
wooden ramps to lead up to the scales. The scales allow for the total weight
to be read as well as each individual wheel weight or combination of wheel
weights.
The plane can be rolled up the ramps to the scales or it can be lifted one
wing at a time by lifting under the spar at the outboard rib by crouching
and lifting with your back. The disadvantage of this is that a small side
load is introduced on the scales from the gear as it sits down on the gear.
Not sure if it makes a difference though. As mentioned before be sure to
chock the wheels - simple pieces of wood or angle iron or aluminum will do.
For best accuracy be sure and tare out the weight of the chocks.
On a RVs-3,4,6,7,8 you will need to set the tail scale on some sort of
platform to level the plane. With RVs-6A,7A,8A, 9A you will need to have the
main gear higher than the nose gear to achieve level. I've found for a -6A
about 4" of height needs to be added under the mains. Fine adjustments to
level can be made with air pressure. Be sure to level side to side as well
as fore and aft. On a -6A with a sliding canopy a level a little shorter
than two feet is needed I believe for the longitudinal level check.
While the plane is on the scales you need to drop the plumb lines off the
leading edge of the wing on each side. Tape the strings to the upper wing
surface. If these are placed in line with the main gear you can simply
measure back to the axle from the plumb line to get the main gear distance
from the leading edge. Snap or draw a line on the floor connecting the plumb
lines on each side. Measure back from the nose gear axle to this line (a
carpenters square held up at the line might be useful here to allow the tape
to be held horizontal).
Once you get these numbers it is only a math exercise.
Out of curiosity when weighing a -4 we weighed with basic empty weight
(empty tanks) , full tanks, pilot only, pilot and passenger. We did this to
double check the moment arms that are given in the manual. It is after all a
homebuilt plane. What we found was that the fuel and pilot moment arms were
very close to Van's numbers but the passenger moment arm for the plane we
weighed was noticeably aft of the book figure.
A week ago I weighed a -6A and besides the basic empty weight had the
builder climb in to double check the pilot/passenger moment arm. When the
calculator cooled off it showed the plane in question had a seat arm 2"
further aft than the book shows. Of course this was with the seat full aft
and there is at least that much adjustment in them.
I mention this because it is easy to double check these distances by getting
the new weights and working the CG. After all, each of these planes are
individually built.
Good luck,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Weighing the RV-6A |
Way good post. Many thanks for the info. I picked up the scales about an
hour ago and can't wait to start having fun.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Blanton [mailto:stanb(at)door.net]
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weighing the RV-6A
>
> I'm at the point of weighing my RV-6A. Apart from finding scales,
>
>snip
>
> What would you do differently if you were to weigh your airplane again?
>
I have weighed four or five RVs along with a Lancair. I use a set of digital
race car scales that read to the nearest pound. I think these are the way to
go if you can locate a set.
Tools needed:
scales
4 ft. level
2 ft (or smaller) level
2 plumb bobs w/strings
duct tape
pen, paper, calculator etc.
The scales only sit a couple of inches high so I built a set of simple
wooden ramps to lead up to the scales. The scales allow for the total weight
to be read as well as each individual wheel weight or combination of wheel
weights.
The plane can be rolled up the ramps to the scales or it can be lifted one
wing at a time by lifting under the spar at the outboard rib by crouching
and lifting with your back. The disadvantage of this is that a small side
load is introduced on the scales from the gear as it sits down on the gear.
Not sure if it makes a difference though. As mentioned before be sure to
chock the wheels - simple pieces of wood or angle iron or aluminum will do.
For best accuracy be sure and tare out the weight of the chocks.
On a RVs-3,4,6,7,8 you will need to set the tail scale on some sort of
platform to level the plane. With RVs-6A,7A,8A, 9A you will need to have the
main gear higher than the nose gear to achieve level. I've found for a -6A
about 4" of height needs to be added under the mains. Fine adjustments to
level can be made with air pressure. Be sure to level side to side as well
as fore and aft. On a -6A with a sliding canopy a level a little shorter
than two feet is needed I believe for the longitudinal level check.
While the plane is on the scales you need to drop the plumb lines off the
leading edge of the wing on each side. Tape the strings to the upper wing
surface. If these are placed in line with the main gear you can simply
measure back to the axle from the plumb line to get the main gear distance
from the leading edge. Snap or draw a line on the floor connecting the plumb
lines on each side. Measure back from the nose gear axle to this line (a
carpenters square held up at the line might be useful here to allow the tape
to be held horizontal).
Once you get these numbers it is only a math exercise.
Out of curiosity when weighing a -4 we weighed with basic empty weight
(empty tanks) , full tanks, pilot only, pilot and passenger. We did this to
double check the moment arms that are given in the manual. It is after all a
homebuilt plane. What we found was that the fuel and pilot moment arms were
very close to Van's numbers but the passenger moment arm for the plane we
weighed was noticeably aft of the book figure.
A week ago I weighed a -6A and besides the basic empty weight had the
builder climb in to double check the pilot/passenger moment arm. When the
calculator cooled off it showed the plane in question had a seat arm 2"
further aft than the book shows. Of course this was with the seat full aft
and there is at least that much adjustment in them.
I mention this because it is easy to double check these distances by getting
the new weights and working the CG. After all, each of these planes are
individually built.
Good luck,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welding questions |
Yeah, Iv seen that done but different.
4 holes were drilled in the tube and the threaded piece inserted. the
threaded piece was welded to the tube through the holes using the holes
to ensure good bond
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Have any of you welded (or had someone else weld for you) your bellcrank
> to aileron pushrod assemblies?
>
> In looking at how the end fits in, I think that I should have a space
> between the flange and the tube about the thickness of the tubing for
> the weld to grab on to. What I mean is that the threaded piece would
> not be pushed all the way in to the tube.
>
> Comments please...
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR (rsvd)
> Inventoried my finish kit yesterday!
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <jjessen(at)cmbinfo.com> |
Who has the RV RG's ?? Anyone know?
-----Original Message-----
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Sent: 8/31/01 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: gear up landing
In a message dated 8/30/01 11:25:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
>
> I hate to come off as a "list policeman", but how does the subject of
> gear-up landings fit with the part in the official RV-List Usage
Guidelines
> that says to "Please keep posts related to RVs at some level"? I
guess it
> might be if you stretch it, since there are, I think, TWO RG RVs in
> existence....
>
> I know it's fun to banter this stuff back and forth, but there are
aviation
> forums such as rec.aviation.homebuilt where people can discuss all of
the
> non-rv stuff to their heart's content. The RV-List (the unfortunate
hiatus
> notwithstanding) has IMHO gotten way too bloated with extraneous
stuff,
> making it difficult to sift through and find useful information, and I
for
> one would like to see people be a little more consciencous about
sticking to
> the usage guidelines.
>
> Sorry to be a nag.... responses off-line PLEASE.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
>
Excuse me, but what does your nagging post have to do with RV related
contentent?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Let me see if I can help you out here Eric. I just happen to have a picture
of Boyd's cowl if it's the same Boyd we're both talking about. Check it out
her. Every time I see that picture that HUGE prop still impresses me.
http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Florida%20RV's.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
>
> Our good buddy Boyd has exactly what you propose and was nice enough to
> send pictures of it. The man is an ARTEISTE! My scanner just went heels up
> so I can't scan the pics yet but I will soon. BTW, last I heard an RV-6
> was being made available to the Team Rocket boys to fab a airscoop like
the
> F-1 rocket boys have. Let me tell ya, that is one sweet assembly. So don't
> get too far ahead yet, you may have a really cool option coming to ya down
> the road. By the way, the sump you want is off a Decathalon.
>
> Eric Henson
>
>
> Jeff Point (at)matronics.com on 08/31/2001 12:32:22 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: RV List
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Here's another idea, and one I plan to use:
>
> Lycoming does make an engine with forward facing carb (-M1A, used on
> Katana) and
> I was considering that. After talking with Bart Lalonde from Aerosport
> Power at
> Oshkosh this year, he suggested this: take the sump and induction from an
> IO-360
> and mount to the parallel valve 0-360. Some cutting and splicing of the
> pipes
> is required, but Bart said he would do this no extra charge. Then you
have
> the
> benefit of forward facing servo, with the tuned induction of the IO
engine.
>
> Wait, it gets better:
>
> While bouncing this idea off Scott McDaniels and Ken Krueger, Scott
> suggested
> using the IO-360 cowl (no scoop) from the RV7, and the Vans snorkel for
the
> intake. "But Scott, isn't the cowl different?" asked I. Nope, same
> firewall
> (outer dimensions) as the 6, the 7 cowl will fit a 6. So there's your
> solution:
> IO sump mounted to your engine, with an RV7 cowl.
>
> I plan to take this one step further and graft a smaller scoop to the cowl
> bottom for unfiltered ram air. A small scoop, properly faired, would be
> much
> less drag than Vans stock scoop (I would think so, anyway.) So my
> induction
> system is 3 way: filtered air via snorkel for ground ops and TO/Landing,
> ram air
> at altitude, plus an alternate air source inside the cowling.
>
> I have yet to see this setup on a flying plane. There is probably a
reason
> for
> that, and I don't believe that no one has thought of it. Any opinions?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuse kit here tomorrow!
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Jim Bower wrote:
>
> >
> > Am I correct in my belief that among the other advantages of f.i. over
> > carbureation is being able to do away with the ram air scoop under the
> > cowling? I am not particularly fond of that one design element, and it
> > might just be worth the extra expense of fuel injection.
> >
> > Obviously, f.i. has other benefits but I'm not sure what they are.
Also,
> > could somebody give me a ballpark idea of the cost of a fuel injected
> O-320?
> >
> > Thanks to all.
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > RV-6A N143DJ
> > Wings (Fuselage on order)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Scuffed aluminum (alias for MORE PRIMER PRIMER) |
I saw the D-Wings program. They did indeed say that the Alclad is removed
by scuffing. Obviously an editorial mistake.
In the early days of building I used a self-etching primer, so called. Cant
remember the name. It peeled off, no use at all.
Now, I use red scotchbrite dipped in Laquer thinner or Coleman fluid to
scuff. The combination leaves a very clean and grease free scuffed surface,
and dries quickly. No blow drying with air. Then I personally choose Tempo
Zinc Oxide rattle can primer. Quick and easy, touchups a breeze, no
cleanups, etc. It is soft for about a week, then becomes very hard and
scratch resistant, but probably not as good as epoxy primer.
I dont bother with the large aluminum sheet surfaces, just where they are
joined to other pieces.
I plan to reclean the exposed surfaces and prime with epoxy primer as I
paint the whole aircraft, when the issue of small jobs and touchups is not a
problem.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 Tail feathers attached!
This whole scuffing ordeal has got me a little worried. Absolutely everyone
I have talked to so far has scuffed the alclad *lightly* (I use red
scothbrite pads) before priming so I have done the same thing with my entire
project... I also noticed that primer has peeled off on a couple of areas I
forgot to scuff - mind you I have not been acid etching but rather used a
self-etching primer.
Oh well - I just need to rebuild the empennage and 2 wings - I'll order it
tomorrow ... not a biggie... in about .. oh, a year and a half I'll be ahead
again... :)
Are
RV-8 Starting over (just kidding!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve |
Hi folks
I am interested in fitting an Andair duplex fuel selector valve (for FI
engine) instead of the standard Vans valve. Andair has just the right
valve number FS20-20-D2 shown on their web site at
http://www.andair.co.uk/selector/duplex.htm.
Andair tell me that Aircraft Spruce sells it, but ACS only sell the model
FS25x4.
Aircraft Spruce emailed me as follows:
P/N FS25x4 has 3/8" NPT, not 1/2". Our p/n for that is 05-00128 and costs
$265.00
I am confused, because I seem to remember reading that the 3/8" fuel line
that the RV8 uses takes 1/4"NPT fittings, and that the 3/8"NPT fittings are
for 1/2" line. Is this right? If so, then the valve that ACS sells would
be for 1/2" pipe, which is too big.
Feedback appreciated
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve |
Why are you using the dual selector valve? What type of FI are you using?
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Robertson
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 2:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Selector Valve
Hi folks
I am interested in fitting an Andair duplex fuel selector valve (for FI
engine) instead of the standard Vans valve. Andair has just the right
valve number FS20-20-D2 shown on their web site at
http://www.andair.co.uk/selector/duplex.htm.
Andair tell me that Aircraft Spruce sells it, but ACS only sell the model
FS25x4.
Aircraft Spruce emailed me as follows:
P/N FS25x4 has 3/8" NPT, not 1/2". Our p/n for that is 05-00128 and costs
$265.00
I am confused, because I seem to remember reading that the 3/8" fuel line
that the RV8 uses takes 1/4"NPT fittings, and that the 3/8"NPT fittings are
for 1/2" line. Is this right? If so, then the valve that ACS sells would
be for 1/2" pipe, which is too big.
Feedback appreciated
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve |
Are you sure that your FI servo requires a return line to the tank. Most
Bendix servos do not.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Stiffeners |
I flew my RV6A for almost 5-years with wooden stiffeners on all three gear
legs.
I removed them and have flown for just over a year now without them. I
notice no difference on the mains. The nose gear does show a bit of wobble
when taxiing over a bumpy surface, but is easily stopped with speed change.
Overall I can't see a big difference.
Just to point out that my personal observations are based on fairly frequent
use, I noticed that I have now made 952 landings on the RV6A, so if there
was a problem I should have noticed it one way or the other, and of those
952, about 100 were made without the stiffeners.
Either way seems to work, but the reduction of stress concentration is what
sold me on removing the wood.
Your mileage may vary, though"
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there any
need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in both.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin, RV8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there any
need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in both.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin, RV8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Small things...
Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
thanks
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
Yes.
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Yes. Cut a notch and RTV it per the instructions.
Rob Acker (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: small questions |
> Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
Very. It sounds kind of like a spray paint can rattle, only much louder.
> Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Yes. Most people cut out the filter just slightly more than necessary and
fill the void with hi-temp silicone.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
In a message dated 8/31/01 1:20:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
>
> I flew my RV6A for almost 5-years with wooden stiffeners on all three gear
> legs.
>
> I removed them and have flown for just over a year now without them. I
> notice no difference on the mains. The nose gear does show a bit of wobble
> when taxiing over a bumpy surface, but is easily stopped with speed change.
>
> Overall I can't see a big difference.
>
> Just to point out that my personal observations are based on fairly frequent
> use, I noticed that I have now made 952 landings on the RV6A, so if there
> was a problem I should have noticed it one way or the other, and of those
> 952, about 100 were made without the stiffeners.
>
> Either way seems to work, but the reduction of stress concentration is what
> sold me on removing the wood.
>
> Your mileage may vary, though"
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
>
I also do not use gear leg stiffners. I found that on my RV4 I can eliminate
wheel shimmy by the air pressure in the tires. The magic pressure for me is
40lbs, at that pressure I have no wheel shimmy at a slow / fast taxi, a 90mph
wheel landing, or a 65mph 3 point landing
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: small questions |
Compared to a running engine the Facet pump is barely noticable after the
fuel is pumping. Just a background clicking noise.
Had to cut and fit my filter and patch the hole with a big gob of RTV
silicon, make sure your RTV is bigger than the hole so it can't get sucked
in past the filter.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: small questions
>Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 16:57:40 -0400
>
>
>Small things...
>
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
>
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
>
>thanks
>
>Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
I have a grinding wheel (for steel ONLY) on one side of my 6" bench grinder
with all of the guards in place. The other side has all of the guards
removed and a large scotchbright wheel installed on that side.
Dave Burton
RV6, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder?
>
> Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there
any need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in
both.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kevin, RV8 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: small questions |
In a message dated 8/31/2001 2:16:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> Had to cut and fit my filter and patch the hole with a big gob of RTV
> silicon, make sure your RTV is bigger than the hole so it can't get sucked
> in past the filter.
>
Did any of you fellas ever put a test sample of cured RTV in av
gas to see what happens, You`ll be surprised!
Fred LaForge RV-4 0-360 CS EAA Tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: small questions |
yep, yep, Thats right. Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Card Compass |
Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the street, and the
second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I tried the
correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
get it to work properly.
I don't have a DG, so I would really like to have the representation of the
DG on the compass.
Any thoughts?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi folks..
Like others, my son and I are holding on for the 4-seat RV... we expect to be
among the first to begin the kit (and knowing us, among the last to finish).
One thing, though. I am surprised at the list of proposed engines they are
looking at... in that it does not include anything new.. esp the diesel and
turbo diesel engines we have been following.
We all know the many expected advantages of the various diesel engines in
development. Of these, the SMA 305 seems quite a good choice. Already
certified in Europe, and US certification pending. Horsepower right at Van's
suggested likely range. The partnership with Embry-Riddle should help make US
support good. Already chosen by Cirrus for the SR-21. Already flying in the
Socata Trinidad and Tobago airframes, and here in the US, in a C-182. This
engine is also offered on the Maule.
It is my hope that Van's will develop the engineering package for this, or a
similar, engine while developing the airframe. The option could be available
from the start, eliminating customization issues for builders.
I would guess that many would find such a package appealing.
Any thoughts?
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Van's is a Lycoming dealer. Why would he recommend anything else?
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Miller Robert
> Sent: August 31, 2001 5:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV 10
>
>
>
> Hi folks..
> Like others, my son and I are holding on for the 4-seat RV... we
> expect to be
> among the first to begin the kit (and knowing us, among the last
> to finish).
> One thing, though. I am surprised at the list of proposed
> engines they are
> looking at... in that it does not include anything new.. esp the
> diesel and
> turbo diesel engines we have been following.
> We all know the many expected advantages of the various diesel engines in
> development. Of these, the SMA 305 seems quite a good choice. Already
> certified in Europe, and US certification pending. Horsepower
> right at Van's
> suggested likely range. The partnership with Embry-Riddle should
> help make US
> support good. Already chosen by Cirrus for the SR-21. Already
> flying in the
> Socata Trinidad and Tobago airframes, and here in the US, in a
> C-182. This
> engine is also offered on the Maule.
> It is my hope that Van's will develop the engineering package for
> this, or a
> similar, engine while developing the airframe. The option could
> be available
> from the start, eliminating customization issues for builders.
> I would guess that many would find such a package appealing.
> Any thoughts?
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Robert:
I'm speaking out of turn here, given that I've never even met Van, let alone
discussed this particular question with him. But I suggest there are at
least two reasons that Van is only considering Lycomings for the RV-10.
First, Van is a very conservative engineer. That has been one of the keys
to his success. He prefers proven technology, whether it be in materials
and construction methods, aerodynamic design, or powerplants. Lycomings are
well-known and well understood. That can't be said about any of the new
engines. Don't get me wrong, I'm very interested in some of the new
engines, and I believe they will be stiff competition for Lycoming down the
road. But, at this moment, the conservative choice is still a Lycoming.
Second, Van is a large reseller of Lycoming engines. I don't know what the
nature of his contract with Lycoming is, but I'd be very surprised if it
didn't contain some language that discourages Van from endorsing engines by
other manufacturers.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 tail/wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
If a Cessna nose gear shimmys the answer, usually, is to lower the pressure
in the nose wheel until it just starts to bulge the side walls of the tire,
about 15 psi if memory serves. Anybody tried that? Pretty much SOP after the
annual.
If it doesn't work the thing is going to need help. RV' 'A' s aren't Cessnas
but you never know.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
on 8/31/01 7:40 PM, Paul Besing at azpilot(at)extremezone.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
> Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
>
> I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
> airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the street, and the
> second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I tried the
> correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
> get it to work properly.
FWIW, we have one of the vertical card compasses glareshield mounted in an
aircam (www.aircamsite.com) and it works better than most aircraft sompasses
I've used. It is only marginally less useful than a DG, especially with the
AirCam's low rates of turn. It is the cheap Chinese knock-off compass
purchased from Van's.
I flew an RV8A yesterday (thanks Jerry ;)) with the "standard" (not vertical
card) compass mounted in the panel and it had so much error it was more
distracting than useful.
I suspect the difference is in the amount of chromoly near the compass in a
slider RV vs. the aircam. I also suspect the quality control of the chinese
instruments is (insert word of choice here) and they may be more
susceptible.
People have talked about using a degausser (? bought or rented from Radio
Shack) to demagnetize the rollbar with some success.
James Freeman
RV8Q staring at the canopy and trembling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
Highly unlikely that Van would tackle that. Just like it would add a long
time to your building an airplane with this installation and verifying that
a new engine is satisfactory, so would it add time until Van could deliver.
Certainly do not expect to see it in early models. If the 100LL problem
really develops, then expect Van to look for alternatives.
Van uses tried and true technology which is why novices like me can fly the
first 200 hours trouble free:>)
Bernie Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV 10
>
> Hi folks..
> Like others, my son and I are holding on for the 4-seat RV... we expect to
be
> among the first to begin the kit (and knowing us, among the last to
finish).
> One thing, though. I am surprised at the list of proposed engines they
are
> looking at... in that it does not include anything new.. esp the diesel
and
> turbo diesel engines we have been following.
> We all know the many expected advantages of the various diesel engines in
> development. Of these, the SMA 305 seems quite a good choice. Already
> certified in Europe, and US certification pending. Horsepower right at
Van's
> suggested likely range. The partnership with Embry-Riddle should help
make US
> support good. Already chosen by Cirrus for the SR-21. Already flying in
the
> Socata Trinidad and Tobago airframes, and here in the US, in a C-182.
This
> engine is also offered on the Maule.
> It is my hope that Van's will develop the engineering package for this, or
a
> similar, engine while developing the airframe. The option could be
available
> from the start, eliminating customization issues for builders.
> I would guess that many would find such a package appealing.
> Any thoughts?
> Robert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
It definitely won't work standing in the street because it needs a good bit
of constant vibration to keep it working. It is in essence still a wet
compass and there isn't a lot of natural magnetic force to turn all of the
little gears to make the card rotate.
When I first installed mine it had a lot of error. I almost sent it back
until I tried a technique from Tony Bingellis that appeared in (I think) a
Sport Aviation magazine about 3-4 years ago. It details how to set up one
of these properly, and I remember it taking a few trips around the compass
rose with the engine idling the whole time. Now mine reads within 2-3
degrees of any heading. I don't recall the details, and I don't have the
magazine any longer, but if you can find it I bet it will help.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
> Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
>
> I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
> airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the street, and
the
> second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I tried
the
> correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
> get it to work properly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
I heard that there is a program on cable/sat. that is on the
construction of an RV. Can anyone direct me to the channel and time?
Thanks
Gene Park RV-9 90296 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Kevin,
I suggest that you consider a 8" grinder.
Two models that I have and like are Skil 3698 and Delta 23-592.
These are priced around $80 at Lowes.
They have 12" and 13" between wheels giving you more space when deburing.
The motor dia is smaller than most others.
Enco sells 8" 3m wheels for $45.
ray rv6a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder?
>
> Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there
any need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in
both.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kevin, RV8 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I only needed a PTT on each stick so I bought a set of Cleaveland's
blank caps (I didn't like their switches) and added a set of PTT switches
from the radio shop. Then I went to a bike shop and got a set of foam
hand grips like those found on mountain bikes (both ends are open).
Slipped 'em on with a little water for lube 'til flush with the top of
the stick and they work great. I didn't cut the sticks down at all.
Total cost? About $25...
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM
120 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
> Second, Van is a large reseller of Lycoming engines. I don't know what
the
> nature of his contract with Lycoming is, but I'd be very surprised if it
> didn't contain some language that discourages Van from endorsing engines
by
> other manufacturers.
>
In fairness to Vans, it appears they made a very good faith effort to make a
Franklin work on the 6/6A airframe. They tried it and it had a bunch of
problems that made it not worth it. If the diesels put up a good service
record and are reasonably priced, I would certainly expect Van to look into
using them, after airframe development is completed.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Card Compass |
What brand are the bad ones? I've been investigating them recently too. Is
PAI any good?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 8:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
>
>
> Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
> Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
>
> I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
> airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the
> street, and the
> second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I
> tried the
> correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
> get it to work properly.
>
> I don't have a DG, so I would really like to have the
> representation of the
> DG on the compass.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Card Compass |
Are you using the PAI-700??
If you are using the "look-a-like", then that MIGHT be your problem.
I have the PAI-700 in my Piper and it works GREAT!
I know of a guy who purchased the lower cost look-a-like and didn't work
worth a ????? per him. Replaced it with the PAI-700 and he is now a happy
camper.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the street, and the
second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I tried the
correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
get it to work properly.
I don't have a DG, so I would really like to have the representation of the
DG on the compass.
Any thoughts?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Card Compass |
PAI is a**good** one.
James ... PAI-700 owner
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
What brand are the bad ones? I've been investigating them recently too. Is
PAI any good?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 8:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
>
>
> Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
> Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
>
> I know it is not my airplane, because the first one I never put in the
> airplane it and it was about 100 degrees off standing in the
> street, and the
> second reads right on in some directions but is off in others. I
> tried the
> correction screws while on the compass rose, but they don't turn enough to
> get it to work properly.
>
> I don't have a DG, so I would really like to have the
> representation of the
> DG on the compass.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rozy Arno" <rozy26(at)excelonline.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 WING KIT 4 SALE |
Hi guys,
After some major computer headaches (my hard drive died),I'm back. To
everyone who inquired, please e-mail again, I should be able to get it
now.
Still 4 sale,in fact MUST SELL ASAP , my -6 wing kit,some clean up work
started,lightening holes cut, Phlogiston spars, not pre-punched,all
manuals,drawings, hardware,everything must go! $2600 obo e-mail to
rozy26(at)excelonline.com did I say MUST SELL (located in Portland OR)
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Rott <drjohn108(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings Program? |
The program is called "From the Ground Up." It is on
the Discovery Wings Channel Sunday at 5:30pm and
8:30pm Pacific Time. They also rerun episodes early
Monday AM. I had to get digital cable to get the
channel.
John Rott (7A waiting for the UPS truck)
--- Gene wrote:
>
>
> I heard that there is a program on cable/sat. that
> is on the
> construction of an RV. Can anyone direct me to the
> channel and time?
> Thanks
>
> Gene Park RV-9 90296 Fuse
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
> Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
> Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
About a year ago I came across an article on the web that talks about why
vertical card compasses are so notoriously unreliable. In a nutshell, if
you use a steel screwdriver that is even moderately magnetized to install
the compass, the pin that holds the magnet can and often does get pulled out
by the magnetism of the installing tool, and the thing will of course be way
off after that. Easy to fix by taking it apart and putting the pin back, and
to avoid by using a non-magnetic screwdriver. The article was written by an
avionics shop and they said they can't modify the compass so it won't happen
but it seems to me that would be SIMPLE too. I recommend anyone who hs a VCC
or is considering getting one take a look. Maybe this problem is known by
now and the manufacturers have fixed it but anyway it seems worth knowing
about.
The article is at http://www.avionicswest.com/articles.htm
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Propeller for sale |
I have a nearly new ( 55 hrs. ) Sensenich metal fixed pitch prop for sale .
It is a 72FM8S9-1-83, and is built by Sensenich to be used on a Lycoming
0360.
Reason for selling --- came across a good buy on a constant speed prop.
Asking $1600 for prop, bolts, and spacer ,and backing plates .
Also have an aluminum spinner made by Sensenich for this prop. $150 for
spinner.
I will pay for shipping in U.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Propeller for sale |
I have a nearly new ( 55 hrs. ) Sensenich metal fixed pitch prop for sale .
It is a 72FM8S9-1-83, and is built by Sensenich to be used on a Lycoming
0360.
Reason for selling --- came across a good buy on a constant speed prop.
Asking $1600 for prop, bolts, and spacer ,and backing plates .
Also have an aluminum spinner made by Sensenich for this prop.
Asking $150 for spinner.
I will pay for shipping in U.S.
Scott Baldwin
N728P RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wings Program? |
>
>I heard that there is a program on cable/sat.
that is on the
>construction of an RV. Can anyone direct me to
the channel and time?
>Thanks
>
>Gene Park RV-9 90296 Fuse
>
Yes it's called from the ground up and it is on
discovery wings,not sure of the channel as I have
dish network.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
Gordon,
Van's sells Andair valves through their accessory catalogue at a price that
can not be beat.
Gary in Ohio
RV8A
Wrote the big one for a new Lycoming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Spark plugs for sale |
New Champion REM38E plugs for sale. 3 sets (24) pulled from new O-360A1A
engines purchased from Van's. Plugs not used other than the factory initial
engine run. Will sell all or in sets of 8. $10 each plus shipping.
Plugs pulled for installation of Light Speed electronic ignitions.
Please respond off list.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings on, getting closer)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
I have tried 3 different PAI verticle card compass and they all will not
work in my plane. I will be heading 270 and the VC shows 090. It only has a
problem in turns. Straight & level is fine. The company has been great to
deal with but the fact is it was a waste of money (in my plane).
John Furey
RV6A O-360 130 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <mdivan(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Interested in building and looking for builders in the area. |
I am thinking about building a RV (7 or 9) and was wondering if anyone will
be working on there RV this weekend at Corona, Chino, EMT (or someplace in
the LA area). If so would you mind a visit?
Mike Divan
mdivan(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
on the vertical card compasses, i have had three in differant airplanes, i
love them,going to put one in the 6A,i found that the trick to them is to
have the engine running, cut everything on that you will be using while
flying,make about two trips around the compass rose, make the
corrections,mine have all been closer then the wet compass itself,as stated
earlier, i believe the engine viberations helps out a lot on making the card
move, frank goggio rv6a
fayetteville nc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
Thanks for all the tips on the vertical card compass. I found out that I
have the import piece of junk. After further testing and adjustments, it
just isn't gonna work. Engine running or not. Some directions it's pretty
close, others are 90 degrees + off! It's going back to Van's and I'l take
the chance with the good ole US of A product. (just not cars and
electronics)
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
>
> on the vertical card compasses, i have had three in differant airplanes, i
> love them,going to put one in the 6A,i found that the trick to them is to
> have the engine running, cut everything on that you will be using while
> flying,make about two trips around the compass rose, make the
> corrections,mine have all been closer then the wet compass itself,as
stated
> earlier, i believe the engine viberations helps out a lot on making the
card
> move, frank goggio rv6a
> fayetteville nc
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The worst news... |
Thread-Topic: The worst news...
Thread-Index: AcEzI8PxtfbtZc6nRNuJuNv1ORfdBw=
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Dave Spears died yesterday in his RV-6 outside Chicago while traveling
from TX to see relatives in Chicago. I pulled the following off
www.nbc5.com - the station that reported it...
"GRAYSLAKE, IL: September 1 - The pilot of an experimental airplane
was killed Friday when his plane crashed in a soybean field just west of
Campbell Airport, officials said. David Lee Spears, 49, of Roanoke,
Texas, was the only person aboard the plane, which crashed just before 5
p.m., Round Lake Fire Department Captain Doug Elliott said. Witnesses
said the plan banked, leveled out, then suddenly nose-dived into the
ground, where it exploded and burned. Spears was pronounced dead at the
scene. The National Transportation Safety Board and the Federal
Aviation Administration are investigating. Campbell is a small airport
two miles southwest of the northern Chicago suburb of Grayslake."
Dave was a good friend of mine. Pictures and videos from his plane are
on my site. His RV-6 N910RS was the very first RV I saw and the first
one I flew in. I'm building a RV because of that first experience and
had planned on keeping my plane in the corner of his hanger at 52F.
I'm completely numb.
Please keep David's relatives and the extended Texas RV bunch in your
thoughts and prayers. We lost someone very, very close to us yesterday.
I'll let you know if and when I learn more.
Doug Reeves
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spark plugs for sale |
Hey Carl,
I'll take a set, give me a # and I'll call you for the details.Here's my
#910 864-1757 and address 7125 Ashwood Cr, Fayetteville, NC 28303
Carey Mills
RV4 160hrs
0360 C1E
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help: Removing Canopy Shipping Film |
I have a RV-4 canopy and it came painted some type of film on it. It is a
rubbery substance and is painted on so thin it is almost impossible to peel
off (you get a small section started and it tears off in little pieces). I
started using tape to help pull it off, but there are a few sections that
absolutely will not come off with peeling or using tape.
Has anyone had this experience or has any suggestions on removing it? Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
>
>Does anyone know of a vertical card compass that works? I have had 2 from
>Van's and both don't work worth a (insert word of choice here)
>Paul, I have a PAI-700 vertical card compass that was installed in my
>previous RV-4 for 10 hours before it was totaled in an off-field landing (
>Actually, it was an on-cornfield landing). Anyway, It was installed on the
>canopy front crosspiece, away from electrical components. It worked
>absolutely perfectly from the moment it was installed 'till its last day
>in service.
>
>This compass is sitting in its original box now and is looking for a new
>home. If you would like to try it out, call me at (610) 668-4964.
>
>Louis
>
>_-
Louis I. Willig
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
155 exciting Hrs.
Penn Valley, PA
(610) 668-4964
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy side skirts |
We have completed the harrowing step of fitting our canopy. Now we noticed
that the side skirts stick out away from the fuselage sides as much as 1/4
inch. We have drilled the holes into the bottom canopy frame so we can not
adjust the position of the skirt by moving the holes below the center of the
frame. Does any one have a suggestion on how we can improve the gap
between the canopy side skirts and the side of the plane?
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
R & R,
I had the same problem with my -6. I copied someone else's method & it
worked well. I took the side skin between two 2x4's with C-clamps on them
for a kinda brake and "rolled" the brake over the skin. This gave a gentle
curve from below the holes to the bottom of the side skin. Now that it meets
the fuselage side, there is the problem of the skin hitting the top of the
longeron area. At least mine did because of the way I trimmed the bottom
edge so the side skin hangs down below the longerons. So, I prosealed on a
1/4" thick piece of UHMW plastic that has the shape of the fuselage side and
radius on the top outside edge. This piece is glued right on top of the
longeron "canopy deck" I think it's called and butts against the canopy
rails. This plastic allows the side skirt to ride down the plastic and
forces it out to the outside of the fuselage as the canopy is slid shut.
This works well.
The other mod I did to the slider is I cut the rear plastic block in the
center so I could install a plastic roller. A 3/16" bolt hole is drilled
thru horizontal to hold the roller in place. The roller rolls on top of the
T track. This keeps the bottom L of the block from hitting the fuselage top
skin. I didn't want to cut any of the plastic block bottom L part since
there wouldn't have been much plastic left. The roller works well and makes
for a rolling rear block instead of a sliding rear block.
Congrats on getting the slider done. That is about the biggest hurdle to get
over in building the RV.
Rick Caldwell
-6 256 hrs Just spent all day installing a uEncoder.
Melbourne, Fl Tomorrow - the test flight.
>From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Canopy side skirts
>Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 18:01:13 EDT
>
>
>We have completed the harrowing step of fitting our canopy. Now we noticed
>that the side skirts stick out away from the fuselage sides as much as 1/4
>inch. We have drilled the holes into the bottom canopy frame so we can not
>adjust the position of the skirt by moving the holes below the center of
>the
>frame. Does any one have a suggestion on how we can improve the gap
>between the canopy side skirts and the side of the plane?
>Thanks
>Rollie & Rod
>RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Help: Removing Canopy Shipping Film |
It's called Spraylat or Sign Strip and the secret is to either blow it off
with compressed air or apply additional coats that, after curing, will be
easier to remove.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N8292W(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 5:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help: Removing Canopy Shipping Film
I have a RV-4 canopy and it came painted some type of film on it. It is a
rubbery substance and is painted on so thin it is almost impossible to peel
off (you get a small section started and it tears off in little pieces). I
started using tape to help pull it off, but there are a few sections that
absolutely will not come off with peeling or using tape.
Has anyone had this experience or has any suggestions on removing it? Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
--- Rquinn1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> We have completed the harrowing step of fitting our canopy. Now we
> noticed
> that the side skirts stick out away from the fuselage sides as much
> as 1/4
> inch.
Rollie & Rod,
Many have welded tabs onto the canopy frame which lets them pull the
bottom of the side skirt in and hold it there.
Van's tried something different on their 9A and Paul Stratman used it
on his - seeing the solution on his web site, I tried it on my -6
slider. Works great!
What they did was to rivet a strip into which tabs were cut. This ends
up doing the same thing as welding tabs on but without the welding.
What it forms after riveting is a triangle which holds everything
firmly in place - you will rivet from inside while holding the side
skirt firmly against the fuselage.
Here is Paul's web site with enough pictures for you to copy the trick.
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/finish/finish1.htm
If you have more questions, contact me off line - I can send scanned
pics of my installation.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Prop for Sale |
Listers:
A friend and builder has a new, in the box, never opened Sensenich
Propeller that he no longer needs for his RV,(decided on a constant
speed).
Model No. 72FM8S9-1 SN 32271
This lists for $1,900.00 from Van's. He'll let it go less $150.00.
Soooooo,
If you need this prop, you can get it for $1,700.00 plus shipping. I
will act for my friend and pass along any questions that you might have.
Dave Aronson
RV-4 N504RV
Electrical Sys & plastic
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Jeff,
I've been down this road and can offer a few suggestions. I used a IO-360-C
sump with an Airflow Performance injector. In hindsight the IO-360-A sump
with the Bendix injector is a FAR better choice. The C sump is a rear mount
and I had the front face opened and machined to accept the AFP servo. The
front face on the C is farther aft than the A sump which is necessary
because the AFP servo is longer than the Bendix. The servo mount on the C is
slightly left of center vs right of center for the A. This compresses the
installation and won't let Van's snorkel line up. Also the Bendix has a
flange to bolt to where the AFP is a tube. I wound up cutting the snorkel in
two and forming a new lower end to mate with the AFP servo (more
fiberglass).
Because the C sump is so much further aft, it interfered with the engine
mount. With Van's concurrence I modified 2 of the mount tubes to get
clearance. Another problem was the C is magnesium so the Christen sump mod
(P&L) for inverted oil cost $250 vs ~$75 for an aluminum sump.
Now for some things that may apply even to the A sump. Yes, you will have to
modify the induction tubes to fit either sump. Get someone like Bart who's
done it before as it's an exacting fit. I had to get a custom exhaust
system. Larry Vetterman did it for me, twice. The first was based on the
RV-8 but it interfered with the engine mount. We scrapped that and did
another with a 4 into 1 collector. It worked and was a thing of beauty but
Larry was talking like he wasn't going to build any more custom systems.
Because of the induction tubes you WILL need a unique exhaust. If Larry
won't build it then you're on your own. I had to mount the AFP servo with
the diaphragm up to get clearance from the cowl. That reversed the throttle
throw and required building a bellcrank for the throttle cable. Finding a
way to mount the mixture cable was also problematic. You may be on your own
in this area as well. Routing cables, fuel lines and oil lines is
complicated by the maze of pipes formed by the induction tubes and exhaust.
The area around the snorkel is extremely tight. I couldn't figure any way to
make an alternate air door let alone another duct to connect to a scoop.
Keep in mind that the snorkel is attached only to the engine and baffles. If
you attach it to a scoop on the cowl it will have to allow for engine
movement.
I probably spent $12-1500 extra working thru these problems. Once you get so
far into it it's hard to back off. The A sump and Bendix would have eased it
quite a bit, eliminating most of the welding and machining that I had to
farm out. Ah, the price of experimentation. I would not do it again. My best
suggestion if you want a smooth cowl is to get an IO-360-A engine and use
the RV-7 cowl. Van's has already worked it out.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> Jim,
>
> Here's another idea, and one I plan to use:
>
> Lycoming does make an engine with forward facing carb (-M1A,
> used on Katana) and
> I was considering that. After talking with Bart Lalonde from
> Aerosport Power at
> Oshkosh this year, he suggested this: take the sump and
> induction from an IO-360
> and mount to the parallel valve 0-360. Some cutting and
> splicing of the pipes
> is required, but Bart said he would do this no extra charge.
> Then you have the
> benefit of forward facing servo, with the tuned induction of
> the IO engine.
>
> Wait, it gets better:
>
> While bouncing this idea off Scott McDaniels and Ken Krueger,
> Scott suggested
> using the IO-360 cowl (no scoop) from the RV7, and the Vans
> snorkel for the
> intake. "But Scott, isn't the cowl different?" asked I.
> Nope, same firewall
> (outer dimensions) as the 6, the 7 cowl will fit a 6. So
> there's your solution:
> IO sump mounted to your engine, with an RV7 cowl.
>
> I plan to take this one step further and graft a smaller
> scoop to the cowl
> bottom for unfiltered ram air. A small scoop, properly
> faired, would be much
> less drag than Vans stock scoop (I would think so, anyway.)
> So my induction
> system is 3 way: filtered air via snorkel for ground ops and
> TO/Landing, ram air
> at altitude, plus an alternate air source inside the cowling.
>
> I have yet to see this setup on a flying plane. There is
> probably a reason for
> that, and I don't believe that no one has thought of it. Any
> opinions?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuse kit here tomorrow!
> Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Wings and Wheels |
Fellow Listers:
The MN Wing is organizing a RV display at the Wings and Wheels fly-in next
Sat in Osceola, WI. Here are the details:
===========
September 8, 2001
Wings and Wheels 2001 - Osceola, WI
The MN Wing has been asked to participate in this great community event. A
special parking and display area is planned. We would like to have as many
RVs as possible on the field. PowerSport Aviation will also have their
rotary engine on display. Here are the details:
8:00am to 4:00pm
Pancake Breakfast, Lunch, War Birds, Military Displays, Parachute Jumps,
Trains Rides, Antique Cars, Book Sale, Fair, Arts & Crafts. Free Shuttle
Rides.
Osceola Muni Airport
Osceola WI (KOEO)
FAA Tower CTAF 118.4
Check Class D NOTAMS for conditions and Field Closure times
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
715-386-1239
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Loran Antenna |
Try Jenkins aircraft salvage @ 302 697 7743. He may have one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $7900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
One of our local RV folks is looking to purchase a flying RV-4 or an RV-8.
He might also settle for a -6. If anyone knows of any possible examples,
contact me off list.
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Polish Mushroom Set? |
I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my mushroom set is now
marred a little on the surface. What is a good way to polish it back to
that mirror finish?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
Van's later RV-6 slider canopy finish kits now include the "inside canopy
brace strip" that Mike describes below. My finish kit (packed late May 2001)
included these parts as item number # C-759 "Inside Canopy Skirt" - and
coincidentally I drilled these to the inside of my canopy frame this
afternoon.
As a general comment, Van's seems to have updated the slider canopy design
considerably. The old drawing SC-1 is now two drawings, SC-1A and SC-1B,
dated 20 April 2001 which have lots more detail than the previous drawing.
The main difference is that the lower canopy frame is now made of 3/4"
square tube (vice round tube) which makes locating and fastening the lower
skirts much easier. This canopy design looks to be common to the RV-6, -7,
and -9 by the title of the drawing, a sensible move for manufacturing
simplicity on Van's part.
The fit and shape of my new design canopy bow and slider frame were quite
good although it took a few hours of tweaking to get the aft edges of the
frame to match the aft fuselage shape adequately (and this chipped and
cracked the powder coating enough that I will have to strip and refinish
it). I also drilled the C-666 aft canopy skirts this afternoon and was all
set for the pull-tug-drill wrestling match but these pieces fell into place
quite readily with a minimum of fuss.
So there is some light at the end of the canopy tunnel for those with finish
kits ordered after May 01. I would hardly call it a "quick and easy" task
but my canopy has been a straight forward and even interesting part of my
project.
(For those who are muttering "gosh, these young guys sure have it soft, not
like in the old days", I will gladly share some tales of my RV-3 canopy back
in 1979-80. A canopy "frame" back then was a bundle of 4130 tubing and a
drawing !)
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-????
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side skirts
>
> --- Rquinn1(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > We have completed the harrowing step of fitting our canopy. Now we
> > noticed
> > that the side skirts stick out away from the fuselage sides as much
> > as 1/4
> > inch.
>
> Rollie & Rod,
>
> Many have welded tabs onto the canopy frame which lets them pull the
> bottom of the side skirt in and hold it there.
>
> Van's tried something different on their 9A and Paul Stratman used it
> on his - seeing the solution on his web site, I tried it on my -6
> slider. Works great!
> What they did was to rivet a strip into which tabs were cut. This ends
> up doing the same thing as welding tabs on but without the welding.
> What it forms after riveting is a triangle which holds everything
> firmly in place - you will rivet from inside while holding the side
> skirt firmly against the fuselage.
> Here is Paul's web site with enough pictures for you to copy the trick.
> http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/finish/finish1.htm
>
> If you have more questions, contact me off line - I can send scanned
> pics of my installation.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Kevin:
I built my plane with a 6" grinder. Never had a job where I wished I'd had
a larger one.
George Kilishek
>From: "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder?
>Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:24:34 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Kevin Hanson"
>
>Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there
>any need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in
>both.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Kevin, RV8 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Guys,
Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I saw
one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know until
now. Just starting. #841
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing gear
boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening up
holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit at
all. I have worked it in to a point where the bottom close tolerance holes
are off by less than half a hole diameter. Has anyone experienced this poor
fit up condition ? Did you have to open up the holes in the weldment that
much ? I believe the weldment is incorrect and will call Vans on Tuesday.
Gary Gembala
Storngsville, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
Gary, I had exactly the same problem back in December, '99. The Left gear
mount went in without any undue problems, but the right mount just didn't
fit.
The leg that projects forward and outboard on the right mount was 1/8"
longer than the same leg on the left mount. I called Van's and they asked
me to ship the right mount back to them, which I did. They shipped me a new
one and it fit perfectly!
I suggest you make similar comparison measurements and give Van's a call if
there's a discrepancy. Good luck....
Walt Shipley RV-8A Finishing
----------
> From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A
> Date: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:58 AM
>
>
> I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing
gear
> boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening
up
> holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit
at
> all. I have worked it in to a point where the bottom close tolerance
holes
> are off by less than half a hole diameter. Has anyone experienced this
poor
> fit up condition ? Did you have to open up the holes in the weldment
that
> much ? I believe the weldment is incorrect and will call Vans on
Tuesday.
>
> Gary Gembala
> Storngsville, OH
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
Gary,
Stop filling. These weldments should fit with minimal effort. Something
else is wrong. Do you have another 8A builder nearby to compare weldments?
If not, send them back to Van's to check.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings back off, final systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
WCruiser1(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A
I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing gear
boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening up
holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit at
all. I have worked it in to a point where the bottom close tolerance holes
are off by less than half a hole diameter. Has anyone experienced this
poor
fit up condition ? Did you have to open up the holes in the weldment that
much ? I believe the weldment is incorrect and will call Vans on Tuesday.
Gary Gembala
Storngsville, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 09/01/01 |
Hey What's this Gary in Ohio stuff. Just because I moved you take up my
moniker. LOL.
I hope to be installing that new Andair fuel valve real soon. What a piece of
work.
See ya in the sun.....Gary in Fla
ps. I don't really read the RV-List much. Just the digest once in awhile.
When I get back into the swing of things I will re-subscribe to the real time
version.
In a message dated 9/2/01 2:57:43, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Selector Valve
Gordon,
Van's sells Andair valves through their accessory catalogue at a price that
can not be beat.
Gary in Ohio
RV8A
Wrote the big one for a new Lycoming
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Jim Nolan wrote:
>
> Guys,
> Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought
> I saw
> one on an eight but forget where or who had it.
Don't know if he used this design, but if you will go to Kevin Horton's
RV Links web site at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
and scroll to Empennage, you will find:
"Large (200k) JPEG of Van's Air Force Tri-State newsletter article by
Jim Cone on the spring tension rudder trim system he put in his RV-6A.
Courtesy of Mike Nellis"
Which should be at:
http://vondane.com/mnellis/BuilderIdeas/ruddertrim.htm
Unfortunately that page is not accessible this morning... perhaps the
server is just down or needs a kick in the butt. Keep trying. this
looks like a good design and the the panel in my -6 has a spot for the
trim knob although I've not done the installation yet.
I do, however, have printouts of the article. What is up on the web
site is barely readable but has diagrams enough for you to puzzle it
out. If it doesn't come up in a day or two let me know and I'll scan
you what I have.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Need some quick advice.
Forgive a new builder's ignorance. I am planning (desiring, hoping) to
install an S-Tec autopilot in my RV7A in the future. I am about to close my
left elevator, have manual elevator trim, and suddenly realized I may be
making a mistake.
Questions:
Does the S-Tec 30 system require that I have electric trim?
Will there be some part of the autopilot which needs to be installed in the
emp?
If so, do I need this part before I close the elevator?
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/2/01 9:22:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
> Forgive a new builder's ignorance. I am planning (desiring, hoping) to
> install an S-Tec autopilot in my RV7A in the future. I am about to close
> my
> left elevator, have manual elevator trim, and suddenly realized I may be
> making a mistake.
>
> Questions:
>
> Does the S-Tec 30 system require that I have electric trim?
> Will there be some part of the autopilot which needs to be installed in the
> emp?
> If so, do I need this part before I close the elevator?
>
> John McDonnell
>
John,
I have installed a -30 in my -8 and it does require elevator trim but makes
no difference if it is manual or electric. The system will let you know when
the airplane is out of trim by a trim light on the control head. There is
nothing you need to do on the empenage with relation to the a/p. I installed
the roll servo in my -8 wing using S-Tec's RV-6 installation kit. It took a
lot of modification to get it to work. I'm assuming the aileron bellcrank
assembly in the -7 is like the -8 given that the wings are the same. Most -8
guys are installing their roll servos in the fuselage. This seems a much
better solution and I wish I had done so. That being the case, you won't
need to worry about the a/p until you start on the fuselage. S-Tec will
probably send you installation drawings if you give them a call. They are a
good bunch of people to work with.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/ruddertrim.htm
http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm#ruddertrim
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Canopy Skirt
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Nolan
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Empennage
Guys,
Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I saw
one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know until
now. Just starting. #841
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Polish Mushroom Set |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Bobby:
I use red rouge buffing wheel compound (also known as jeweller's rouge).
You can get it most machine shop supply or industrial supply stores. I
think I got mine at House of Tools.
While on this subject: I found that I had to stop and clean my
mushroom-head rivet set every twenty rivets or so. Is that normal?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | airflow perf. installation |
I am about to mount the wings on my 6A for the first time and
will be
installing some fuel lines, selector, boost pump, etc. I called Don at
Airflow Performance to ask some questions about the fuel system.
Don mentioned that in the 6A, the fuel controller (which mounts
where
the carburetor would mount) uses some mounting brackets that interfere
with the nose gear. He said some modification would be necessary.
Has any one run into this problem? How big a problem is it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eCharts <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VG testing results |
> The results will almost certainly vary depending on how far aft of the
> leading edge the VGs are installed.
The micro aerodynamics VG plans specify the forward edge of the VGs are located
14.5" in front of the split of the skins (tank skin / main skin) on the wing.
Where are your's set? Where are the Vetterman plans set?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Empennage |
Hi Jim,
I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a drawing,
please tell me.
romeo.victor@t-online.de
Stephan Servatius
# 80303
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Jim Nolan schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan"
>
> Guys,
> Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I saw
> one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know until
> now. Just starting. #841
>
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> Warsaw, In.
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Before you buy an Stec, you should check out the TruTrak digital autopilots.
They are THE autopilot the Lancair folks recommend..
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
They have a new product for those that don't want a "full featured"
autopilot called the DigiFlight. It is in the same price range as the
Navaid but is a real digital autopilot and also has an altitude hold option.
Call them for details.
Ross
RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilot
>
> Need some quick advice.
>
> Forgive a new builder's ignorance. I am planning (desiring, hoping) to
> install an S-Tec autopilot in my RV7A in the future. I am about to close
my
> left elevator, have manual elevator trim, and suddenly realized I may be
> making a mistake.
>
> Questions:
>
> Does the S-Tec 30 system require that I have electric trim?
> Will there be some part of the autopilot which needs to be installed in
the
> emp?
> If so, do I need this part before I close the elevator?
>
> John McDonnell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Polish Mushroom Set? |
To keep your head nice, there is a product that I think is called riveters
tape that you put on the mushroom set or whatever. I don't know where to
get it as a builder friend gave me some.
Ross
RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 8:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Polish Mushroom Set?
>
> I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my mushroom set is now
> marred a little on the surface. What is a good way to polish it back to
> that mirror finish?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Polish Mushroom Set |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Try the brown plastic shipping tape.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
writes:
>
> Bobby:
>
> I use red rouge buffing wheel compound (also known as jeweller's
> rouge).
> You can get it most machine shop supply or industrial supply stores.
> I
> think I got mine at House of Tools.
>
> While on this subject: I found that I had to stop and clean my
> mushroom-head rivet set every twenty rivets or so. Is that normal?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Polish Mushroom Set? |
In a message dated 9/2/2001 11:47:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
To keep your head nice, there is a product that I think is called riveters
tape that you put on the mushroom set or whatever. I don't know where to
get it as a builder friend gave me some.
Ross
RV6A
Use the tape for hockey sticks works AWESOME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Polish Mushroom Set |
Just go to Wal-Mart and get some Scotch "Magic" tape...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don R Jordan
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Polish Mushroom Set
Try the brown plastic shipping tape.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
writes:
>
> Bobby:
>
> I use red rouge buffing wheel compound (also known as jeweller's
> rouge).
> You can get it most machine shop supply or industrial supply stores.
> I
> think I got mine at House of Tools.
>
> While on this subject: I found that I had to stop and clean my
> mushroom-head rivet set every twenty rivets or so. Is that normal?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
Gary,
I went through the same problem within the last couple of weeks on my 8A
slowbuild. The left landing gear weldment took five or ten minutes to get
in place so the holes lined up; the right one took maybe 8 hours over
several days. In my case the biggest culprit was the arm of the weldment
that extended to the side of the fuselage. I had to bend it a little --
very little -- to let the weldment slide out closer to the side of the
fuselage to let the holes line up.
I needed to shim between the aluminum and the part of the main weldment that
goes against the side of the fuselage. On the left side, it was a piece of
.032, but on the right side, I had to make a tapered one out of .125" stock.
There was also some interference with the weld around the large tube that
receives the landing gear leg. It really was a case of bend, test fit,
file, test fit, and do it all over again. I remember thinking at the time
that it was the most difficult part of building so far. At least it got a
lot easier to get it in and out as it got closer to fitting.
When you get it so everything lines up fine, then you get to figure out how
to get the washers and nuts on those bolts way back in the center section. I
still haven't torqued the 1/4" bolts. From a book, I think I am supposed to
measure the torque it takes to turn the bolt in the hole, then add that to
the torque I want on the nut, since I have to put the torque wrench on the
bolt rather than the nut.
Terry
RV-8A nutplates (or is it platenuts?)
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: <WCruiser1(at)aol.com>
RV-List: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A
>
> I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing gear
> boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening
up
> holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit
at
> all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | airflow perf. installation |
Tom,
I talked to Don about problems on 6A and 8A installations associated with
the throttle and mixture brackets. His comment about "some modifications
will be needed" is a huge understatement. Bottom line, the angle Don
provides to make these brackets is useless. I purchased some 1/8" 2"x2" and
1"x1 1/4" and started to build a large pile of aluminum dust. The throttle
bracket is easier and can be made out of a single piece of angle. The
mixture bracket is much harder as it is fairly far aft. To clear the engine
mounts you need to bring the cable in at a very high angle (relative to
horizontal). For this I made a bracket out of two pieces of angle. The
horizontal piece that bolts onto the throttle body goes aft and in toward
the center line, and another piece of angle bolts on to it aft of the sump.
This allows for the cable to be attached aft of the sump and above the
bottom of the sump.
After many tries I found only one possible way to do this and clear the
engine mounts and exhaust pipes. Make sure your exhaust is installed before
you begin. Don
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings off again, final system install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: airflow perf. installation
I am about to mount the wings on my 6A for the first time and
will be
installing some fuel lines, selector, boost pump, etc. I called Don at
Airflow Performance to ask some questions about the fuel system.
Don mentioned that in the 6A, the fuel controller (which mounts
where
the carburetor would mount) uses some mounting brackets that interfere
with the nose gear. He said some modification would be necessary.
Has any one run into this problem? How big a problem is it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tmosher(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Polish Mushroom Set? |
At work they use a product I believe is called "Flashbreaker" it's a
specialty tape they use for multiple purposes including riveting work. We do
quite a bit of riveting.
Now I've never noticed them polishing up their mushroom sets - but, I'm not
on the plant floor that much.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Polish Mushroom Set?
>
> To keep your head nice, there is a product that I think is called riveters
> tape that you put on the mushroom set or whatever. I don't know where to
> get it as a builder friend gave me some.
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
> To: "RV7and7A" ; "Server"
>
> Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 8:44 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Polish Mushroom Set?
>
>
> >
> > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my mushroom set is now
> > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way to polish it back to
> > that mirror finish?
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
-----Original Message-----
From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com [mailto:WCruiser1(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A
I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing gear
boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening up
holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit at
all. I have worked it in to a point where the bottom close tolerance holes
are off by less than half a hole diameter. Has anyone experienced this
poor
fit up condition ? Did you have to open up the holes in the weldment that
much ? I believe the weldment is incorrect and will call Vans on Tuesday.
Gary Gembala
Storngsville, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
My two RV6A sticks ended up being a little different and very tall. I cut
one about an inch and a half and the other almost two. They still seem tall
but I will wait until I'm flying to cut any more. At a guess now I'd say
I'll probably remove another two inches.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
>
> With regards to stick grips, I'm about to put mine on and was
wondering....
> Do you guys cut the sticks down a bit prior to putting the grips on for
> good. The sticks seem a bit long (tall). How tall is correct? Does
> everybody use them the length that comes from Vans? What about the
> passenger side... treated the same as the pilot side?
I cut them different to match their height.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VP" <vp(at)inforunner.com> |
| Subject: | preparing aluminum |
hello all,
whats the best way for buffing up aluminum sheet parts before priming.
Also where can i get info on preparing aluminum sheets for priming..
thanks in advance,
varun
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lisa Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
Does anyone know of an apparatus called a "pressure carburetor"? If so, who
makes them?
I've heard that they are designed to take the place of a standard positive
"g" carb and deliver fuel at the zero and negative "g" regimes.
I have an O-320, not IO-320, and this sounds like an alternative to fuel
injection. I'm getting tired of my engine sputtering if I flirt with .5 to
0 "g" for more than a couple of seconds.
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] The worst news... |
--- Doug Reeves wrote:
> Dave Spears died yesterday in his RV-6 outside Chicago while
> traveling from TX to see relatives in Chicago.
Doug and List,
Words can't express the sorrow I feel - once again. I think of Don
Corbitt, Von Alexander, Bill Benedict, Jeremy Benedict, just a few of
many...
I find myself thinking, "How did he screw up?" - but to be fair to
Dave, I think that any time an aircraft goes in.
We (those of us who will admit it) are maybe an arrogant bunch thinking
we won't make the same mistakes thousands of pilots have made before
us:
I will never run my aircraft out of fuel...
I will never spin in from base leg...
I will never fly into conditions for which I'm not trained or my
aircraft is not equipped to handle...
I will never try to make it back home "in time" nor will I ever "have
to get there"...
I will never fail to throughly preflight my ship...
I will not repeat the mistakes of those who flew before me. I am
somehow better...
I know that my chances are best to live to old age if I sell this
project and quit flying (I also know I would have to take a bus to work
and do a hundred other things to ensure I die in bed an old man)... but
I choose not to; The attraction is too strong, the reward too great.
I will do the best I can, no man can do more. I will build carefully
and fly carefully and if my turn comes while in the air, so be it...
and those who follow will probably wonder how I screwed up.
Be careful out there, guys.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] The worst news... |
Well said and very true
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set? |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> how I know)
>
> Paul
>
> --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> >
> >
> > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > mushroom set is now
> > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > to polish it back to
> > that mirror finish?
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at:
> > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
I spend
the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
is it
better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
Horz.
Stab. that don't look real pretty.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: preparing aluminum |
I use Sher-Will-Klean. It is a degreaser/paint prep that you get at a
Sherwin Williams auto paint store. Follow up with some 988 self etching
primer, and you are good to go. Just wipe it on, dry it off, and prime. No
need to "buff up" the alluminum. The self etching primer does that for you.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "VP" <vp(at)inforunner.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: preparing aluminum
>
> hello all,
>
> whats the best way for buffing up aluminum sheet parts before priming.
>
> Also where can i get info on preparing aluminum sheets for priming..
>
> thanks in advance,
> varun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set? |
The flush swivel set is the only way to go. When you get to parts like the
ailerons with .016" skins you'll wish you had especially if you're going to
be doing most of your riveting by yourself. It's a forgiving way to go.
I've used both and haven't touched the non-swivel set since I started my
empennage.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
>
> > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > how I know)
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > mushroom set is now
> > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > to polish it back to
> > > that mirror finish?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at:
> > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
> What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
> I spend
> the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
> is it
> better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
> Horz.
> Stab. that don't look real pretty.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set? |
Absolutely correct. The swivel set is the best thing going. I made some dings
in my horizontal stab with the mushroom set. Once I got a swivel set, I made
no more dings for the rest of the project and most of my riveting was done solo.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (final stuff - Weight and Balance, almost ready for inspection)
www.ericsrv6a.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com" <owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com>
on behalf of "Bobby Hester"
Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
Paul Besing wrote:
> Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> how I know)
>
> Paul
>
> --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> >
> >
> > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > mushroom set is now
> > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > to polish it back to
> > that mirror finish?
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at:
> > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
I spend
the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
is it
better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
Horz.
Stab. that don't look real pretty.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Empennage |
Guys:
I don't know of a design for adjustable rudder trim for an -8, but having
flown a variety of RVs I don't know why you'd want one. This is simply not
an airplane where rudder trim should be an issue in climb, descent or
cruise.
George Kilishek
N888GK final assembly
>From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Empennage
>Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:43:41 +0200
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan
>Servatius)
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a
>drawing,
>please tell me.
>
>romeo.victor@t-online.de
>Stephan Servatius
># 80303
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>Jim Nolan schrieb:
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan"
> >
> > Guys,
> > Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I
>saw
> > one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know
>until
> > now. Just starting. #841
> >
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> > Warsaw, In.
> >
> >
>
>Stephan Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak autopilots |
Just curious...I'm getting to the point where I need to think about an autopilot
also, as I plan on putting an IFR panel in my plane...any comments pro/con about
the TruTrak from anyone who's installed and used one? Any difficulties or
things to remember about installing them?
John
RV-6 (left wing in the jig...top skins drilled)
>
> From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
>
>
> Before you buy an Stec, you should check out the TruTrak digital autopilots.
> They are THE autopilot the Lancair folks recommend..
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
>
> They have a new product for those that don't want a "full featured"
> autopilot called the DigiFlight. It is in the same price range as the
> Navaid but is a real digital autopilot and also has an altitude hold option.
> Call them for details.
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:19 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilot
>
> >
> > Need some quick advice.
> >
> > Forgive a new builder's ignorance. I am planning (desiring, hoping) to
> > install an S-Tec autopilot in my RV7A in the future. I am about to close
> my
> > left elevator, have manual elevator trim, and suddenly realized I may be
> > making a mistake.
> >
> > Questions:
> >
> > Does the S-Tec 30 system require that I have electric trim?
> > Will there be some part of the autopilot which needs to be installed in
> the
> > emp?
> > If so, do I need this part before I close the elevator?
> >
> > John McDonnell
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] The worst news...(DNA) |
Mike,
Well said is right on!! I was telling Doug Reeves that when I was a visiting
lecturer to the USAF Test Pilot School, that it was interesting standing
around listening to war stories at the bar, parties, etc (ie alcohol
flowing) about how "ole joe" had screwed up and augered in. They would never
let their mind admit that either they might make a simple mistake or that
the airplane could bite them hard enough that they could not overcome it
with the " right stuff ". We need to respect that there is always that
possibility lurking out there and do out best to prevent it, but it also
important to think about what kind of lurch we leave our loved ones in and
try to prepare for that day should our number roll up.
Bernie Kerr,6A, 200 + hours of grin time
August 29, 2001 - September 03, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lj