RV-Archive.digest.vol-lk
September 03, 2001 - September 07, 2001
>
> --- Doug Reeves wrote:
> > Dave Spears died yesterday in his RV-6 outside Chicago while
> > traveling from TX to see relatives in Chicago.
>
> Doug and List,
>
> Words can't express the sorrow I feel - once again. I think of Don
> Corbitt, Von Alexander, Bill Benedict, Jeremy Benedict, just a few of
> many...
>
> I find myself thinking, "How did he screw up?" - but to be fair to
> Dave, I think that any time an aircraft goes in.
>
> We (those of us who will admit it) are maybe an arrogant bunch thinking
> we won't make the same mistakes thousands of pilots have made before
> us:
>
> I will never run my aircraft out of fuel...
> I will never spin in from base leg...
> I will never fly into conditions for which I'm not trained or my
> aircraft is not equipped to handle...
> I will never try to make it back home "in time" nor will I ever "have
> to get there"...
> I will never fail to throughly preflight my ship...
> I will not repeat the mistakes of those who flew before me. I am
> somehow better...
>
> I know that my chances are best to live to old age if I sell this
> project and quit flying (I also know I would have to take a bus to work
> and do a hundred other things to ensure I die in bed an old man)... but
> I choose not to; The attraction is too strong, the reward too great.
>
> I will do the best I can, no man can do more. I will build carefully
> and fly carefully and if my turn comes while in the air, so be it...
> and those who follow will probably wonder how I screwed up.
>
> Be careful out there, guys.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
Bendix made the PS5-C series pressure carb. I used to have a 450 hp
Stearman which had twin PS5-C pressure carbs feeding that 9 cylinder radial
engine.
They are expensive anad temperamental compared to a regular carb. But yes,
they will work for aerobatics. They are commonly installed in non-injected
Pitts Specials. I think many of the older Bonanazas also used them.
One other advantage of pressure carbs is that they are less prone to carb
ice as compared to a regular venturi float type carb. When time comes to
overhaul them, you can expect to pay about $1000.00 alone for new silicone
diaphrams that go inside.
My Stearman had a header tank for inverted flight. I don't know whether or
not a pressure cab will work with a flop tube.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E (paint prep)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
>
> Does anyone know of an apparatus called a "pressure carburetor"? If so,
who
> makes them?
>
> I've heard that they are designed to take the place of a standard positive
> "g" carb and deliver fuel at the zero and negative "g" regimes.
>
> I have an O-320, not IO-320, and this sounds like an alternative to fuel
> injection. I'm getting tired of my engine sputtering if I flirt with .5
to
> 0 "g" for more than a couple of seconds.
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A N148CW
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $7900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Empennage |
I'd have to agree. In my TR182 I use the rudder trim frequently and expected
to miss in on my RV-8. In practice that has not been the case at all.
I do use the roll trim a good bit as fuel burns down.
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Sally and George"
Guys:
I don't know of a design for adjustable rudder trim for an -8, but having
flown a variety of RVs I don't know why you'd want one. This is simply not
an airplane where rudder trim should be an issue in climb, descent or
cruise.
George Kilishek
N888GK final assembly
>From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Empennage
>Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:43:41 +0200
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan
>Servatius)
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a
>drawing,
>please tell me.
>
>romeo.victor@t-online.de
>Stephan Servatius
># 80303
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>Jim Nolan schrieb:
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan"
> >
> > Guys,
> > Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I
>saw
> > one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know
>until
> > now. Just starting. #841
> >
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> > Warsaw, In.
> >
> >
>
>Stephan Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
Lisa Compton wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of an apparatus called a "pressure carburetor"? If so, who
> makes them?
>
> I've heard that they are designed to take the place of a standard positive
> "g" carb and deliver fuel at the zero and negative "g" regimes.
>
> I have an O-320, not IO-320, and this sounds like an alternative to fuel
> injection. I'm getting tired of my engine sputtering if I flirt with .5 to
> 0 "g" for more than a couple of seconds.
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A N148CW
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
The Ellison 'throttle body injector' is probably what you
are looking for. Their adv. is on pg 45 of the Sept.
Kitplanes mag.
http://www.ellison-fluid-systems.com
My next-door neighbor has used them on 3 different aerobatic
homebuilts with inverted systems. He has been pleased with
their operation.
Charlie
Slobovia Outernational Airport
Pocahontas MS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-320-E2D For Sale |
Lycoming O-320-E2D for sale. First run engine with 1945 TT. New Slick mags
45 SNEW. Carburetor included. Compressions when removed were 75/76/76/72.
First $6900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | high compression vs. low |
I am planning and shopping for an 0-320 for my RV9. Can someone offer
advice on a high compression vs. low? With the future of 100LL in question,
the idea of being able to use auto gas is appealing. Can 100LL be used in a
low compression engine requiring 80 ocatane? I appreciate any opinions for
the more educated and experienced masses.
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I am wrapping up with the fuselage construction for my RV-8A. Van's
instructions call for a trial fit and drilling of the wings now
before the gear is mounted.
There isn't room to mount the wings in the garage so the EAA chapter
is willing to let me use some space in the hangar for a few days to
do the fitting. It seems that it would be easier to transport to the
airport for a trial fit with the gear mounted (planning to roll it up
into a moving van that my neighbor has access to).
Is there any reason that I shouldn't wait until my gear and wheels
are mounted before I drill the wings? If the wings must be drilled
now, I can make up some kind of dolly I suppose then set it up on saw
horses at the hangar.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
Paul,
I've got a Richie remote 2 1/4 compass from West Marine. It works perfectly. How
do I know that? Well I cross checked it with my GPS on the way to Home coming
and back. With various side trips we put on about 9Hrs.
Garry "Caspers Dad"
RV6 35.4 Hrs
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the tips on the vertical card compass. I found out that I
> have the import piece of junk. After further testing and adjustments, it
> just isn't gonna work. Engine running or not. Some directions it's pretty
> close, others are 90 degrees + off! It's going back to Van's and I'l take
> the chance with the good ole US of A product. (just not cars and
> electronics)
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 12:17 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass
>
> >
> > on the vertical card compasses, i have had three in differant airplanes, i
> > love them,going to put one in the 6A,i found that the trick to them is to
> > have the engine running, cut everything on that you will be using while
> > flying,make about two trips around the compass rose, make the
> > corrections,mine have all been closer then the wet compass itself,as
> stated
> > earlier, i believe the engine viberations helps out a lot on making the
> card
> > move, frank goggio rv6a
> > fayetteville nc
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Empennage |
If you want a rudder trim, just use the same design as your elevator trim.
It's alraedy been designed, you've already built one and Van's sells the
skins for the trim seperately.
Marcel
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set? |
Bobby,
I found the opposite to be true, the swivel set with the rubber guard on it
didnt work for me. With a solid mushroom you can see the rivet and know youre
centered on it, and that it is being driven properly. The one with the rubber
thing on it covers up the area and you cant see what you are doing, or not
doing. If you want to try it, give me your address offline, I will send it to
you. I will never use it again anyway.
Kevin -9A
flying 104 hours
>Absolutely correct. The swivel set is the best thing going. I made some
>dings in my horizontal stab with the mushroom set. Once I got a swivel
>set, I made no more dings for the rest of the project and most of my riveting
>was done solo.
>
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>RV-6A - N57ME (final stuff - Weight and Balance, almost ready for inspection)
>www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: "owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com"
>on behalf of "Bobby Hester"
>To: "Server"
>Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
>
>
>Paul Besing wrote:
>
>> Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
>> the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
>> rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
>> slip one time and you will never use it again. The
>> swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
>> how I know)
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> --- Bobby Hester wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
>> > mushroom set is now
>> > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
>> > to polish it back to
>> > that mirror finish?
>> >
>> > --
>> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>> > Visit my web site at:
>> > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>> > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
>What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
>I spend
>the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
>is it
>better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
>Horz.
>Stab. that don't look real pretty.
>
>--
>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilots |
I am not flying one yet but I do have my servos on order. I have a copy of
the installation drawings and they look good. I will let you know how the
installation goes. One fellow on the List has installed the servos and said
the documentation and installation hardware was good. If you want first
hand knowledge of flying with one of these, give Lancair a call. They are
recommending the TruTrak to their customers. TruTrak is truly the next
generation. Digital, built in gyros, true control wheel steering, GPSS
built in. No need for a bugged directional gyro and they are coming out
with a DG that is slaved to the autopilot gyros.
Ross
RV6A
> Just curious...I'm getting to the point where I need to think about an
autopilot also, as I plan on putting an IFR panel in my plane...any comments
pro/con about the TruTrak from anyone who's installed and used one? Any
difficulties or
> things to remember about installing them?
>
> John
> RV-6 (left wing in the jig...top skins drilled)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Richie compass....was Vertical Card Compass |
> I've got a Richie remote 2 1/4 compass from West Marine.
I have one of these also but haven't installed it yet. Can you answer a few
questions?
Where did you install the unit? I was wanting to put it in the back
fuselage area but to do so I will have to take the end off so I can run the
wires to the panel. If you did this, how did you get the end off and on
again.
Thanks
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: high compression vs. low |
Yes, 100LL can be used in a low compression engine. 80 is not required,
only the minimum recommended.
We have an O-320 E2G (150 hp) in our -4. On a recent trip to
Venezuela the only gas you could get south of Grenada was 130 (the green
stuff). This stuff has so much lead the fumes make you step back when
you're filling the plane. By being aggressive about leaning, ESPECIALLY ON
THE GROUND while taxi-ing (sp?), My plugs stayed clean the whole trip. 76
hours of flying and not a drop of 80 in sight. It's all a matter of how
you operate the mixture.
While I'm on the ground the mixture is back far enough that it
won't run above about 1200 rpm. That way if you forget to push it in on
your takeoff roll the engine will remind you before you get the throttle
pushed all the way in.
Mike
>
>I am planning and shopping for an 0-320 for my RV9. Can someone offer
>advice on a high compression vs. low? With the future of 100LL in question,
>the idea of being able to use auto gas is appealing. Can 100LL be used in a
>low compression engine requiring 80 ocatane? I appreciate any opinions for
>the more educated and experienced masses.
>
>Kim Nicholas
>Seattle
>RV9 fuse
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Randy:
I have a ps-5C carb for sale off a E-225 continintal ( D35 Bonanza). I
stored it wrong & had a shop in Dallas dis-assemble it. I think the cost
will be more like $1500.00 to OH. And you will likely need to adjust for
the smaller engine.
Gordon is right on the carb ice, we never used the carb head on the
bonanza.,
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
writes:
>
>
> Bendix made the PS5-C series pressure carb. I used to have a 450 hp
> Stearman which had twin PS5-C pressure carbs feeding that 9 cylinder
> radial
> engine.
>
> They are expensive anad temperamental compared to a regular carb.
> But yes,
> they will work for aerobatics. They are commonly installed in
> non-injected
> Pitts Specials. I think many of the older Bonanazas also used them.
>
> One other advantage of pressure carbs is that they are less prone
> to carb
> ice as compared to a regular venturi float type carb. When time
> comes to
> overhaul them, you can expect to pay about $1000.00 alone for new
> silicone
> diaphrams that go inside.
>
> My Stearman had a header tank for inverted flight. I don't know
> whether or
> not a pressure cab will work with a flop tube.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E (paint prep)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lisa Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:06 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
>
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone know of an apparatus called a "pressure carburetor"?
> If so,
> who
> > makes them?
> >
> > I've heard that they are designed to take the place of a standard
> positive
> > "g" carb and deliver fuel at the zero and negative "g" regimes.
> >
> > I have an O-320, not IO-320, and this sounds like an alternative
> to fuel
> > injection. I'm getting tired of my engine sputtering if I flirt
> with .5
> to
> > 0 "g" for more than a couple of seconds.
> >
> > Randy Compton
> > RV-3A N148CW
> > Gulf Breeze, FL
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Hi Everyone;
I am about to mount my vertical stabilizer & the plans call for an
offset to the left. I assume this is because they assume that I will be
using a right hand prop. I plan to use the RWS redrive, which has a left
hand drive. I assume that I should make the VS offset to the right instead?
I am considering mounting it with no offset in case I end up with a
different redrive that has a right hand prop.( I have no reason not to use
Tracy's drive, but just want to keep options open). Can I achieve the same
affect by using a trim tab on the rudder, or is this too inefficient? Or
should I just remount the VS with opposite offset if I ever change prop
direction? Changing the mount wouldn't be hard, but changing the empennage
fairing would be a real pain in the ***.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
PS5 pressure carbs work great...but they are old. used on 225 conts,
t-bones in the early-mid 50's. they require reflow for a 0320 or 0360. red
diaphrams indicate a recent overhaul. they should be parked with the mixture
in rich position to keep diaphrams moist. overhaul can be very expensive, if
you have no induction system you are better off with a modern? fuel injection
set-up.
the ellison set-up can work ok but FI is still better.
my experience, my opinion,
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | ritchie compasses |
http://www.ritchienavigation.com/electron.htm
is the site for Ritchie Compass remote stuff.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson seat bolt size? |
Does anyone with Jon Johanson's seats know what size threads are tapped into
the threaded inserts in the seats? I've tried 5/16" and 8 mm, both fine and
coarse, and none of them seem to "fall right in", so I'm not sure which to
use. I don't want to try any harder for fear I'll strip the inserts out.
Also, how thick was the stock you used to make the attach angles?
Matthew Gelber
8A ... seats etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pressure Carburetor |
You might want to have a look at the new Aero-Carb from Aero-Conversions...
I believe it's a pressure carb, and was thinking of one for my -8A... Cost
is only $350..
http://www.aeroconversions.com/
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD -
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PittsS1(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
PS5 pressure carbs work great...but they are old. used on 225 conts,
t-bones in the early-mid 50's. they require reflow for a 0320 or 0360. red
diaphrams indicate a recent overhaul. they should be parked with the mixture
in rich position to keep diaphrams moist. overhaul can be very expensive, if
you have no induction system you are better off with a modern? fuel
injection
set-up.
the ellison set-up can work ok but FI is still better.
my experience, my opinion,
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
I think this appears to be a variation of the old posa (?) carburetor and may
work in a similar manner to the Ellison. It does not appear to be a pressure
carb.
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> You might want to have a look at the new Aero-Carb from Aero-Conversions...
> I believe it's a pressure carb, and was thinking of one for my -8A... Cost
> is only $350..
>
> http://www.aeroconversions.com/
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD -
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PittsS1(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
>
>
> PS5 pressure carbs work great...but they are old. used on 225 conts,
> t-bones in the early-mid 50's. they require reflow for a 0320 or 0360. red
> diaphrams indicate a recent overhaul. they should be parked with the mixture
> in rich position to keep diaphrams moist. overhaul can be very expensive, if
> you have no induction system you are better off with a modern? fuel
> injection
> set-up.
> the ellison set-up can work ok but FI is still better.
> my experience, my opinion,
> mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I replaced a cheapie-type oil temp gauge with an Electronics International
Oil Temp/Oil Pressure gauge. Because of the greater accuracy I find I am
running about 20-degrees higher than seems typical for an RV6A with a
Lycoming O-320 160 HP. I see around 210 or 212 F as an average.
Some questions I am seeking help on are:
Has anyone seen a Vernatherm (or is it Vernitherm?) go out of calibration
and require replacement of the temperature-activated spring?
What are the actual chances of an air entrapment in the top of the oil
cooler?
Is a 3-inch Scat tube that feeds my oil cooler from the back of the baffles
going into too small an opening (or box) atop the oil cooler? I have about
3/4-inch from the top of the cooler to the bottom of the inlet chamber.
would enlarging that help?
A cowl flap below the oil cooler (that is mounted fairly low on the
firewall) that measures 5 x 6 inches and is temporarily fixed in an open
position about 2.5-inches at the after edge (for testing purposes only -
would be cockpit controllable if it helps, and the first flight using it
seems doubtful that it will help reduce oil temps.) The flap is on the
bottom of the cowling about 3 or 4 inches forward of the after edge of the
cowling.
A "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney (I know, its crap, but it helps) reduced the
oil temps a good 10 degrees. I am going to put a 1-inch blast tube on it.
BUT this is treating the symptoms, not the basic problem, I realize. But
anything that helps seems worth trying.
I hate to think of it, but relocating the oil cooler to the aft side of the
baffles, behind nr. 4 cylinder is a possibility. I am reluctant to do this
because, A, its a lot of work, and B, I have a cockpit controllable vane in
the inlet to the scat tube to the oil cooler that I can adjust to full cut
off in the cooler months, and mounting the oil cooler on the baffle would
make that nearly impossible, short of some mechanical plate or tape blanking
off the oil cooler.
I have searched the archives, Lycoming publications, and everything I can
find, and I am still pondering this. Some have said oil cooling is still a
black art, and I agree.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pressure Carburetor |
I don't really know exactly what a pressure carb is, but The factory told me
I can use it with my fuel pump(s) with a pressure regulator. It has no
float or bowl, but uses the fuel pressure to deliver fuel in any attitude,
or G situation...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Arthur Glaser
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
I think this appears to be a variation of the old posa (?) carburetor and
may
work in a similar manner to the Ellison. It does not appear to be a
pressure
carb.
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> You might want to have a look at the new Aero-Carb from
Aero-Conversions...
> I believe it's a pressure carb, and was thinking of one for my -8A...
Cost
> is only $350..
>
> http://www.aeroconversions.com/
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD -
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PittsS1(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pressure Carburetor
>
>
> PS5 pressure carbs work great...but they are old. used on 225
conts,
> t-bones in the early-mid 50's. they require reflow for a 0320 or 0360.
red
> diaphrams indicate a recent overhaul. they should be parked with the
mixture
> in rich position to keep diaphrams moist. overhaul can be very expensive,
if
> you have no induction system you are better off with a modern? fuel
> injection
> set-up.
> the ellison set-up can work ok but FI is still better.
> my experience, my opinion,
> mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature |
What size are your oil lines?
Do they have built in elbows?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature
I replaced a cheapie-type oil temp gauge with an Electronics International
Oil Temp/Oil Pressure gauge. Because of the greater accuracy I find I am
running about 20-degrees higher than seems typical for an RV6A with a
Lycoming O-320 160 HP. I see around 210 or 212 F as an average.
Some questions I am seeking help on are:
Has anyone seen a Vernatherm (or is it Vernitherm?) go out of calibration
and require replacement of the temperature-activated spring?
What are the actual chances of an air entrapment in the top of the oil
cooler?
Is a 3-inch Scat tube that feeds my oil cooler from the back of the baffles
going into too small an opening (or box) atop the oil cooler? I have about
3/4-inch from the top of the cooler to the bottom of the inlet chamber.
would enlarging that help?
A cowl flap below the oil cooler (that is mounted fairly low on the
firewall) that measures 5 x 6 inches and is temporarily fixed in an open
position about 2.5-inches at the after edge (for testing purposes only -
would be cockpit controllable if it helps, and the first flight using it
seems doubtful that it will help reduce oil temps.) The flap is on the
bottom of the cowling about 3 or 4 inches forward of the after edge of the
cowling.
A "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney (I know, its crap, but it helps) reduced the
oil temps a good 10 degrees. I am going to put a 1-inch blast tube on it.
BUT this is treating the symptoms, not the basic problem, I realize. But
anything that helps seems worth trying.
I hate to think of it, but relocating the oil cooler to the aft side of the
baffles, behind nr. 4 cylinder is a possibility. I am reluctant to do this
because, A, its a lot of work, and B, I have a cockpit controllable vane in
the inlet to the scat tube to the oil cooler that I can adjust to full cut
off in the cooler months, and mounting the oil cooler on the baffle would
make that nearly impossible, short of some mechanical plate or tape blanking
off the oil cooler.
I have searched the archives, Lycoming publications, and everything I can
find, and I am still pondering this. Some have said oil cooling is still a
black art, and I agree.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Temperatures (More) |
I forgot to add to my earlier long request for information - can some kind
person scan and e-mail me a photo from the 4th issue of 1999 of the RVAtor
the photo of an idea used to help exit air ... it was some sort of grill or
series of punched out sections made up by an automotive shop for a Texas
RV'er who got good results from it. Unfortunately my RVAtor of that issue
got away from me somehow. thanks,
fasching(at)amigo.net
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature |
Yes, they have 90-degree elbows, and I think they are 3/8-inch lines.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature |
According to our Chapter 75 engine guru most high temps are due to
restrictions in the oil lines from the engine to the cooler and filter. I
think he said 5/8" with all turns done with fittings rather than line ends
which are restrictive. You can contact Ron White at longez38ar(at)juno.com Ron
is an engineer and did some rather extensive instrumentation to find the
cause of his and his friend's high oil temps in a Lycoming O-320.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Temperature
Yes, they have 90-degree elbows, and I think they are 3/8-inch lines.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Carburetor |
more on carbs:
different type carbs require different mechanical fuel pumps:
float carb....4 pound pump
PS5C.......15 pound pump
FI.............23 pound pump
slide body types....less that 4 pound pump may be satisfactory.
all require a flop tube for inverted fuel pick-up. as i remember a fuel
return line is required for a PS5C installation, slide body types..dunno.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
I have had a Vernatherm fail, which led to severely elevated oil temps in a
Bonanza -- to the point that there wasn't enough viscosity left to properly
drive the prop governor.
Rick McCraw
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature
I replaced a cheapie-type oil temp gauge with an Electronics International
Oil Temp/Oil Pressure gauge. Because of the greater accuracy I find I am
running about 20-degrees higher than seems typical for an RV6A with a
Lycoming O-320 160 HP. I see around 210 or 212 F as an average.
Some questions I am seeking help on are:
Has anyone seen a Vernatherm (or is it Vernitherm?) go out of calibration
and require replacement of the temperature-activated spring?
What are the actual chances of an air entrapment in the top of the oil
cooler?
Is a 3-inch Scat tube that feeds my oil cooler from the back of the baffles
going into too small an opening (or box) atop the oil cooler? I have about
3/4-inch from the top of the cooler to the bottom of the inlet chamber.
would enlarging that help?
A cowl flap below the oil cooler (that is mounted fairly low on the
firewall) that measures 5 x 6 inches and is temporarily fixed in an open
position about 2.5-inches at the after edge (for testing purposes only -
would be cockpit controllable if it helps, and the first flight using it
seems doubtful that it will help reduce oil temps.) The flap is on the
bottom of the cowling about 3 or 4 inches forward of the after edge of the
cowling.
A "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney (I know, its crap, but it helps) reduced the
oil temps a good 10 degrees. I am going to put a 1-inch blast tube on it.
BUT this is treating the symptoms, not the basic problem, I realize. But
anything that helps seems worth trying.
I hate to think of it, but relocating the oil cooler to the aft side of the
baffles, behind nr. 4 cylinder is a possibility. I am reluctant to do this
because, A, its a lot of work, and B, I have a cockpit controllable vane in
the inlet to the scat tube to the oil cooler that I can adjust to full cut
off in the cooler months, and mounting the oil cooler on the baffle would
make that nearly impossible, short of some mechanical plate or tape blanking
off the oil cooler.
I have searched the archives, Lycoming publications, and everything I can
find, and I am still pondering this. Some have said oil cooling is still a
black art, and I agree.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] The worst news...(DNA) |
> Well said by both.
>
> In my opinion, the only reason to ask "how did he screw up" should be to
> further sensitize us to another of the myriad of available mistakes we
> could make and should continue to work to avoid. It becomes part of our
> safety-oriented "continuing education".
Our thoughts are with Dave, his family and friends.
In the USAF there is always plenty of self and peer imposed competition and
good natured ribbing if you do not do well. It was my experience there also
was an unwritten rule that if you really screwed up and scared yourself, you
were honor bound to share it in front of everyone so that everyone benefited
from what you had learned. In this case, the individual reporting the
experience was thanked rather than ribbed.
With so many RV's flying and building operational experience; could this
group maintain a similar positive attitude toward those willing to share
their operational mis-judgments in the hope that others would not repeat
them?
I'll start; It is hard to resist the temptation when someone asks for the
impromptu low pass or "let's see how she climbs." Everyone knows how well
these airplanes perform, spur of the moment max performance maneuvering in
the traffic pattern is asking for trouble for a variety of reasons.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "House of D's" <durosset(at)fidnet.com> |
You may want to check out this link:
http://wings.discovery.com/
The holiday looks like it has left their links a little out of sync...but by
Tues eve, you can search for "FROM THE GROUND UP" to see the schedule times
for each of the episodes.
I tried to record episode 1 through 8, but now I think the money I tried to
save on the VCR (for later use on my RV) has come back to haunt me. I know
they will be selling the series at some point but I am sure it will cost
(more than a good vcr!).
Do not achieve
D. DuRossette
RV3 in a box
Richland, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature |
I don't necessarily buy into that more expensive is more accurate. The oil
temp gage is one of the easiest instruments to calibrate. Boil distilled
water and see what your gage reads. If you are near sea level, it should
boil at very close to 210 degrees farenheit. If you are at 5000 feet, then
it is going to boil considerably lower temp. I can search for the boiling
temp as a function of pressure if necessary.
Bernie Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature
>
> I replaced a cheapie-type oil temp gauge with an Electronics International
> Oil Temp/Oil Pressure gauge. Because of the greater accuracy I find I am
> running about 20-degrees higher than seems typical for an RV6A with a
> Lycoming O-320 160 HP. I see around 210 or 212 F as an average.
>
> Some questions I am seeking help on are:
>
> Has anyone seen a Vernatherm (or is it Vernitherm?) go out of calibration
> and require replacement of the temperature-activated spring?
>
> What are the actual chances of an air entrapment in the top of the oil
> cooler?
>
> Is a 3-inch Scat tube that feeds my oil cooler from the back of the
baffles
> going into too small an opening (or box) atop the oil cooler? I have about
> 3/4-inch from the top of the cooler to the bottom of the inlet chamber.
> would enlarging that help?
>
> A cowl flap below the oil cooler (that is mounted fairly low on the
> firewall) that measures 5 x 6 inches and is temporarily fixed in an open
> position about 2.5-inches at the after edge (for testing purposes only -
> would be cockpit controllable if it helps, and the first flight using it
> seems doubtful that it will help reduce oil temps.) The flap is on the
> bottom of the cowling about 3 or 4 inches forward of the after edge of the
> cowling.
>
> A "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney (I know, its crap, but it helps) reduced
the
> oil temps a good 10 degrees. I am going to put a 1-inch blast tube on it.
> BUT this is treating the symptoms, not the basic problem, I realize. But
> anything that helps seems worth trying.
>
> I hate to think of it, but relocating the oil cooler to the aft side of
the
> baffles, behind nr. 4 cylinder is a possibility. I am reluctant to do this
> because, A, its a lot of work, and B, I have a cockpit controllable vane
in
> the inlet to the scat tube to the oil cooler that I can adjust to full cut
> off in the cooler months, and mounting the oil cooler on the baffle would
> make that nearly impossible, short of some mechanical plate or tape
blanking
> off the oil cooler.
>
> I have searched the archives, Lycoming publications, and everything I can
> find, and I am still pondering this. Some have said oil cooling is still a
> black art, and I agree.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
I would just like to echo what others have said about the recent
crash...our thoughts and prayers are with him and his family.
I'd also like to reflect on what Dick Sipp suggested, maybe try to use
this and other experiences to learn rather than criticize.
How many times have we climbed in a ship and rolled out without really
doing a proper pre-flight? I know I have. Generally trying to "beat
the clock" or the weather. We try to lull ourselves by saying, "it was
fine when I tied down, what could be wrong now" and shove the throttle
forward. Then when you get back and find something wrong , something
you should have and would have caught if had done that good pre-flight
and shivers run down you like a cold shower.
We ask ourselves in a smug manner when we read about an incident, "How
could someone do such a thing or allow that to happen"? If you have
ever read any NTSB reports then you know it's generally not a
catastrophic event that is the initial cause. It's just a simple
oversight coupled with another combined with catalysts like weather,
peer pressure, or not having your mind on flying that are the true causes.
I know that as long as aircraft fly, there will be incidents like this
one. Let's all try to be a little more cognizant and make them fewer
and farther between.
Jim D. RV-7A N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Extra Aileron Anyone? |
I did the blunder of all blunders today. Backed my airplane into the side
of the hanger and ruined the right aileron. Does anyone by chance, happen
to have an extra one that is built well they would be willing to sell?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra Aileron Anyone? |
Paul:
I did the same thing to my right elevator trailing edge (RV4) a few weeks
ago trying to get it out of a rain storm.
I was able to re-skin the frame without too much difficulty. If you don't
find a finished aileron you may want to noodle out a re-skinning scheme.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Extra Aileron Anyone?
>
> I did the blunder of all blunders today. Backed my airplane into the side
> of the hanger and ruined the right aileron. Does anyone by chance, happen
> to have an extra one that is built well they would be willing to sell?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra Aileron Anyone? |
Have you priced out a new one like the one Van's sells with the quickbuild
kits?
-Glenn Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 9:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Extra Aileron Anyone?
>
> I did the blunder of all blunders today. Backed my airplane into the side
> of the hanger and ruined the right aileron. Does anyone by chance, happen
> to have an extra one that is built well they would be willing to sell?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection vs. carburator |
Larry,
Sorry I didn't reply to your last e-mail. Instead I passed it on to Greg
who I think answered your questions. Greg did just what you were talking
about, so I thought it better you communicate directly with him.
Hope your project is going well.
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection vs. carburator
>
> This is an option from Van's? So I could have a snoot-less lower cowl,
even
> though I'm using an O-360?
>
> Thx.
>
> --- "Kelly A. Scott" <kscott@hal-pc.org> wrote:
> >
> > Larry,
> >
> > The "snorkel" is a fiberglass duct that runs from just in front of the
front
> > cylinder on the left side to the forward facing servo at the bottom of
the
> > engine. It makes several turns along the way. Since induction air is
now
> > coming in via the left cowl inlet, the intake scoop is not necessary.
> >
> > Kelly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kamama chikwe <drkamamachikwe(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello dear,
thinks for your mail that you send back to me and I
want to know how we can now work together you and my
ministry.
Gred, your friend Kelly said I could talk to you and
see whether you can help me and my ministry.
I am the minister of Aviation of Nigeria, I want to
know the area you and your company can be to my
ministry and I tell you will definitely gain from me
personally, it will be nice to do business with you.
I will want to hear to from you as soon as possible
Best Regards
Dr kama Chikwe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:58:08 AM
Order new tracks and just clamp them on. Take off the canopy (hope it still
clecoed) and re bend the bows in a little, it won't take much. Make it all
work then re drill the tracks. The canopy really pulls the bows out.
Eric
Rquinn1(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 09/01/2001 06:01:13 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Canopy side skirts
We have completed the harrowing step of fitting our canopy. Now we noticed
that the side skirts stick out away from the fuselage sides as much as 1/4
inch. We have drilled the holes into the bottom canopy frame so we can not
adjust the position of the skirt by moving the holes below the center of
the
frame. Does any one have a suggestion on how we can improve the gap
between the canopy side skirts and the side of the plane?
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
Matt,
The threads are 8mm standard pitch (1.25mm)
I have done my front seat, and am working on the rear. I will post pictures
and descriptions in a few days to say how I did it. For the front seat, I
used 1/8" because the seat must be elevated off the floor, but for the back
the seat rests on the floor, so 1/16 is fine.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
Does anyone with Jon Johanson's seats know what size threads are tapped into
the threaded inserts in the seats? I've tried 5/16" and 8 mm, both fine and
coarse, and none of them seem to "fall right in", so I'm not sure which to
use. I don't want to try any harder for fear I'll strip the inserts out.
Also, how thick was the stock you used to make the attach angles?
Matthew Gelber
8A ... seats etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Welding questions |
Thanks to all who responded...
In the end , I drilled the four holes in the tube (only) as if I was going
to rivet them and rosette welded them to the threaded fitting. I also ran a
bead of weld around the circumference where the two parts butted together
after I opened up a little wedge shaped channel.
I feel that it will not come apart!
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Window Film Treatment for Bubble Canopee |
Has anyone considered using 3M window film on the bubble canopee?
Supposedly, a reasonable variety (
RE35NEAL
) would cut UV by 98% and IR by 50%., and claims are that glare is
reduced and visual acuity not problematic. Any experiences by anyone?
/iaw
PS: Here is one of many vendors touting this stuff:
http://sunkingwt.com/solar.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "kamama chikwe" <drkamamachikwe(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: thinks
>
>
> Hello dear,
> thinks for your mail that you send back to me and I
> want to know how we can now work together you and my
> ministry.
> Gred, your friend Kelly said I could talk to you and
> see whether you can help me and my ministry.
> I am the minister of Aviation of Nigeria, I want to
> know the area you and your company can be to my
> ministry and I tell you will definitely gain from me
> personally, it will be nice to do business with you.
> I will want to hear to from you as soon as possible
> Best Regards
> Dr kama Chikwe
>
Anyone any idea what this is supposed to mean?
May I give some advise to the listers with regards of disclosing business
details to anyone who claims to be from the nigerian government or acting on
their behalf :
BE VERY CAREFULL AS MOST OF THESE INDIVIDUALS ARE " C O N M E N " AND ARE
NOT KNOWN BY GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS IN NIGERIA>
there have a number scams here in Northern Ireland recently and business
people of all trades that are involved have lost thousands of pounds through
these conmen.
Very little of what these people claim is genuine and all they will do with
the details of your business is open bankaccounts etc, for loans and other
forms of credit for which you will be held responsible.
Y O U A A R E W A R N E D ! ! !
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G - RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: IO-360 |
reposted for future e-searching
I've been down this road and can offer a few suggestions. I used a
IO-360-C
sump with an Airflow Performance injector. In hindsight the IO-360-A
sump
with the Bendix injector is a FAR better choice. The C sump is a rear
mount
and I had the front face opened and machined to accept the AFP servo.
The
front face on the C is farther aft than the A sump which is necessary
because the AFP servo is longer than the Bendix. The servo mount on the
C is
slightly left of center vs right of center for the A. This compresses
the
installation and won't let Van's snorkel line up. Also the Bendix has a
flange to bolt to where the AFP is a tube. I wound up cutting the
snorkel in
two and forming a new lower end to mate with the AFP servo (more
fiberglass).
Because the C sump is so much further aft, it interfered with the engine
mount. With Van's concurrence I modified 2 of the mount tubes to get
clearance. Another problem was the C is magnesium so the Christen sump
mod
(P&L) for inverted oil cost $250 vs ~$75 for an aluminum sump.
Now for some things that may apply even to the A sump. Yes, you will
have to
modify the induction tubes to fit either sump. Get someone like Bart
who's
done it before as it's an exacting fit. I had to get a custom exhaust
system. Larry Vetterman did it for me, twice. The first was based on the
RV-8 but it interfered with the engine mount. We scrapped that and did
another with a 4 into 1 collector. It worked and was a thing of beauty
but
Larry was talking like he wasn't going to build any more custom systems.
Because of the induction tubes you WILL need a unique exhaust. If Larry
won't build it then you're on your own. I had to mount the AFP servo
with
the diaphragm up to get clearance from the cowl. That reversed the
throttle
throw and required building a bellcrank for the throttle cable. Finding
a
way to mount the mixture cable was also problematic. You may be on your
own
in this area as well. Routing cables, fuel lines and oil lines is
complicated by the maze of pipes formed by the induction tubes and
exhaust.
The area around the snorkel is extremely tight. I couldn't figure any
way to
make an alternate air door let alone another duct to connect to a scoop.
Keep in mind that the snorkel is attached only to the engine and
baffles. If
you attach it to a scoop on the cowl it will have to allow for engine
movement.
I probably spent $12-1500 extra working thru these problems. Once you
get so
far into it it's hard to back off. The A sump and Bendix would have
eased it
quite a bit, eliminating most of the welding and machining that I had to
farm out. Ah, the price of experimentation. I would not do it again. My
best
suggestion if you want a smooth cowl is to get an IO-360-A engine and
use
the RV-7 cowl. Van's has already worked it out.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> Jim,
>
> Here's another idea, and one I plan to use:
>
> Lycoming does make an engine with forward facing carb (-M1A,
> used on Katana) and
> I was considering that. After talking with Bart Lalonde from
> Aerosport Power at
> Oshkosh this year, he suggested this: take the sump and
> induction from an IO-360
> and mount to the parallel valve 0-360. Some cutting and
> splicing of the pipes
> is required, but Bart said he would do this no extra charge.
> Then you have the
> benefit of forward facing servo, with the tuned induction of
> the IO engine.
>
> Wait, it gets better:
>
> While bouncing this idea off Scott McDaniels and Ken Krueger,
> Scott suggested
> using the IO-360 cowl (no scoop) from the RV7, and the Vans
> snorkel for the
> intake. "But Scott, isn't the cowl different?" asked I.
> Nope, same firewall
> (outer dimensions) as the 6, the 7 cowl will fit a 6. So
> there's your solution:
> IO sump mounted to your engine, with an RV7 cowl.
>
> I plan to take this one step further and graft a smaller
> scoop to the cowl
> bottom for unfiltered ram air. A small scoop, properly
> faired, would be much
> less drag than Vans stock scoop (I would think so, anyway.)
> So my induction
> system is 3 way: filtered air via snorkel for ground ops and
> TO/Landing, ram air
> at altitude, plus an alternate air source inside the cowling.
>
> I have yet to see this setup on a flying plane. There is
> probably a reason for
> that, and I don't believe that no one has thought of it. Any
> opinions?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuse kit here tomorrow!
> Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Window Film Treatment for Bubble Canopee |
It won't work.. The film releases fumes over time and will not keep it's
adhesion properties and you will have thousands of bubbles. Not to mention,
you will ruin your canopy trying to take it off. The problem is that 3M and
other films are not compatible with acrylic or plexi. It's not a question
of if it will bubble, the question is when.
Your best bet is to go with the stick on stuff that is removable.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "ivo welch" <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 7:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Window Film Treatment for Bubble Canopee
>
>
> Has anyone considered using 3M window film on the bubble canopee?
> Supposedly, a reasonable variety (
>
> RE35NEAL
>
> ) would cut UV by 98% and IR by 50%., and claims are that glare is
> reduced and visual acuity not problematic. Any experiences by anyone?
>
> /iaw
>
> PS: Here is one of many vendors touting this stuff:
>
> http://sunkingwt.com/solar.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Richie compass....was Vertical Card Compass |
I installed the sender in the first bay outboard of the left fuel tank. I didn't
cut he end off, I cut the cable and spliced it, just be sure and splice the
shield as well as the wires.
Garry "Caspers Dad"
37.4 Hrs (went to San Luis Obispo for lunch) Keep going guys it's worth it.
Ross wrote:
>
> > I've got a Richie remote 2 1/4 compass from West Marine.
>
> I have one of these also but haven't installed it yet. Can you answer a few
> questions?
>
> Where did you install the unit? I was wanting to put it in the back
> fuselage area but to do so I will have to take the end off so I can run the
> wires to the panel. If you did this, how did you get the end off and on
> again.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ross
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Go to West Marine's web site at www.westmarine.com. The compass I used is
a model M-2 and lists for $149.00., but my sale price was around $100.00.
The part # is 239320 it's a 2 1/16th" with a Black bezel.
Garry
barry pote wrote:
> I have been thinking about the remote mount for a long time.
> There is so much talk about various problems with the normal aviation
> compass.
>
> Is there more than one model 'Richie" remote?
> About what do they go for?
>
> Thanks
> Barry POte RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Extra Aileron Anyone? |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
09/04/2001 09:11:39 AM,
Serialize complete at 09/04/2001 09:11:39 AM
Paul,
I don't have an extra one, but I won't be using mine for quite a while,
the way it is going now. If you don't find one elsewhere, let me know,
and I may be willing to swap mine for the parts to build another (plus
some beer). (and I am local!)
Scott
RV6 closing left wing
"Paul Besing"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
09/03/2001 07:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Extra Aileron Anyone?
I did the blunder of all blunders today. Backed my airplane into the side
of the hanger and ruined the right aileron. Does anyone by chance, happen
to have an extra one that is built well they would be willing to sell?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Nav Antena where? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just failed
and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
best kind of blades?
Thanks
RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
The correct speed for Aluminum is the same as for wood.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just failed
and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
best kind of blades?
Thanks
RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
--- Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts?
I have had good luck with a little Delta bench-top band saw - you can
only get wood blades for this size saw so you replace blades fairly
often - but with newer kits the need to cut your own stuff is getting
less and less.
For angle I have used my chop saw. It had an old blade on it anyway,
and makes great right angle cuts.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV *Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav Antena where? |
Comant CI182 - got mine from Chief.
The base fits inside the VS tip - the only thing sticking out are the
whiskers.
Ralph Capen
I've got the antenna - just haven't installed it yet!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Tim,
I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some multiple,
so far.
Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
> band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
failed
> and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
> run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> best kind of blades?
>
> Thanks
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I've used a straight die grinder ($20 home depot) and a cut off wheel for
every cut I've made thusfar. I can't fathom why anyone would labor with
anything else. It's just so easy. I do have a fairly steady hand but if
you use two hands and use one for bracing against the metal...it really is a
piece of cake provided you have a man sized compressor that can keep the
RPMS up. Building an RV-4 means lots of cuts....and it really hasn't been
difficult, including the leading edge wing lights.
Bill
-4 master bath
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
> band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
failed
> and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
> run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> best kind of blades?
>
> Thanks
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
and working on the finish kit.
Thanks again
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> Tim,
> I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
multiple,
> so far.
>
> Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
>
> >
> > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
off
> > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> failed
> > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
that
> > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > best kind of blades?
> >
> > Thanks
> > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > Tim Bryan
> > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A |
Gary,
I am building the non-quickbuild version. All of my holes were off, but the
worst was ~ 1/16". No where near what you are experiencing. My problem was
the strut on the left side was too long and caused the longeron to bow out.
I wound up having ~1/8" cut out and the plate rewelded. A beautiful job by
Trio Eng (plug) in south Phoenix. Van says just bend it slightly, but you
will need a press and the tube will collapse. I just bolted it all together
2 weeks ago and the bolts all went in OK.
Bill Christie, RV8A Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: <WCruiser1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 3:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Main Landing gear box on an RV8A
>
> I have a quick build RV8a and I am fitting the steel weldment landing gear
> boxes to the spar carry through. The LH fit after a bit of work opening
up
> holes as Van's states in the instructions. The RH Weldment does not fit
at
> all. I have worked it in to a point where the bottom close tolerance
holes
> are off by less than half a hole diameter. Has anyone experienced this
poor
> fit up condition ? Did you have to open up the holes in the weldment that
> much ? I believe the weldment is incorrect and will call Vans on Tuesday.
>
> Gary Gembala
> Storngsville, OH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dave Spears services... |
Thread-Topic: Dave Spears services...
Thread-Index: AcE1cIpoiDfNqtFuQ6yXEsQhthsbfg=
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Funeral arrangements are still pending. I talked with Dave's sister
today (9/4) and she said that there will be a service sometime in the
near future up in Chicago, then she will be coming down to Dallas for
another service, probably near Roanoke (52F).
She believes that after that his ashes will be spread at White Knuckle
airport outside Waco, which Dave and some friends had recently
purchased. She said that she would call me when she had worked out the
dates. I'll let you know when I know more...
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Hi Everyone;
> I am about to mount my vertical stabilizer & the plans call for an
>offset to the left. I assume this is because they assume that I will be
>using a right hand prop. I plan to use the RWS redrive, which has a left
>hand drive. I assume that I should make the VS offset to the right instead?
> I am considering mounting it with no offset in case I end up with a
>different redrive that has a right hand prop.( I have no reason not to use
>Tracy's drive, but just want to keep options open). Can I achieve the same
>affect by using a trim tab on the rudder, or is this too inefficient? Or
>should I just remount the VS with opposite offset if I ever change prop
>direction? Changing the mount wouldn't be hard, but changing the empennage
>fairing would be a real pain in the ***.
>S. Todd Bartrim
>13B RV-9
>C-FSTB (reserved)
>Fuselage
The amount of VS offset required to centre the ball with zero rudder pedal
force is affected by a number of variables. The direction the prop rotates
is a biggie. Another major factor is engine mount alignment (the mount on
my -8 has the engine canted a bit to one side). Other factors are power
output in cruise, prop efficiency, and prop diameter (the diameter might be
a pretty small factor).
Given all the variables, you might be best to just put the VS in the
centre. If needed, you can put a small wedge on the rudder trailing edge
to push it to one side in cruise. As you pointed out, you could move the
VS later if you decide you are ready for another stint in fibreglas hell.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02:36:48 PM
Couple of years ago I was in a SKILL repair store. They also sell their
entire line of new products. They had a great table top band saw just a
little larger than the small table top Delta saw. This band saw had a speed
control dial and metal or wood blades. It was pretty much perfect for our
use. The price was around $200.00
Eric
"Bill Christie" (at)matronics.com on 09/04/2001 01:50:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
Tim,
I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
multiple,
so far.
Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
off
> band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
failed
> and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
> run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> best kind of blades?
>
> Thanks
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Dave Spears services... |
Maybe I missed it but does anyone know how this happened? Please no
smart-ass answers, I don't know if his plane blew up, fell apart, or was
shot down. Can someone tell me what happened?
-----Original Message-----
From: Reeves, Doug [mailto:Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Dave Spears services...
Funeral arrangements are still pending. I talked with Dave's sister
today (9/4) and she said that there will be a service sometime in the
near future up in Chicago, then she will be coming down to Dallas for
another service, probably near Roanoke (52F).
She believes that after that his ashes will be spread at White Knuckle
airport outside Waco, which Dave and some friends had recently
purchased. She said that she would call me when she had worked out the
dates. I'll let you know when I know more...
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dave Spears services... |
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but does anyone know how this happened? Please no
> smart-ass answers, I don't know if his plane blew up, fell apart, or
> was
> shot down. Can someone tell me what happened?
The truth is, no one knows.
Witness accounts say the aircraft "banked, leveled, and then nosed into
the ground and exploded".
We could concoct whatever scenarios fit that behavior, but they would
be just speculation.
Apparently he had fuel on board... but engine status, airspeed,
airframe condition, all unknown.
I haven't even heard what the weather was at the time.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Dave Spears services... |
That answers my question. Thanks, Mike.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dave Spears services...
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but does anyone know how this happened? Please no
> smart-ass answers, I don't know if his plane blew up, fell apart, or
> was
> shot down. Can someone tell me what happened?
The truth is, no one knows.
Witness accounts say the aircraft "banked, leveled, and then nosed into
the ground and exploded".
We could concoct whatever scenarios fit that behavior, but they would
be just speculation.
Apparently he had fuel on board... but engine status, airspeed,
airframe condition, all unknown.
I haven't even heard what the weather was at the time.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-320-E2D For Sale |
Lycoming O-320-E2D for sale. First run engine with 1945 TT. New Slick mags
45 SNEW. Carburetor included. Compressions when removed were 75/76/76/72.
First $6900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $7900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
It has always interested me how similar RV's can come up with such divergent
numbers for temperatures in similar flight conditions. Calibration of
engine monitor systems is a must (as has been suggested many times). What
is often overlooked is probe location. With respect to oil temperature I
have found that this can be critical. I have herd many folks report oil
temps as if they didn't question the accuracy of their numbers.
This was my experience (food for thought):
My probe location is in the orifice provided in the spin-on oil filter
adapter (common on new Lycomings and updated engines).
My RMI engine monitor (kit) required (at the time) that I provide the probe
body for the solid state sensor. Just my luck, a popular after market
supplier provided a machined probe body for a reasonable cost, so I ordered
one. It was very nice and was just what I needed to build a probe. The
probe calibrated well from zero to 240. All is well so far. When I went to
mount the probe in the spin-on adapter I noted that the tip of the probe
body (when the gasket was seated) was short of the stream of oil that I
wanted to measure ( you could say that it was in a dead spot or eddy). I
tried to buy a longer body from the the same supplier but none was available
( I explained why, but had the impression that my cause was lost). Later I
made a similar longer probe body of my own. This resulted in higher oil
temps (too high in the NW summer for my comfort and I am now working on a
better, USA quality, cooling system). I believe the new numbers are better
than the old ones but I don't know how Lycoming configures their probe
systems. OAT of 74 deg. F results in 212 deg. F oil temp in cruise.
My point is that I think that many of the numbers I hear may not be accurate
even though the probe systems are (on the bench). I have seen a number
thread adapters used to mount a variety of probes to various positions on
the power plants. These thread adapters most likely effect the depth of
the probe. Weather they effect the accuracy of the measurement system is
the question. It would be nice if Lycoming was more specific about how and
where they measured the limit and ideal numbers they publish for our use,
but I haven't seen this information, have you? We need accuracy of oil
temperature so that we can tweak are cooling systems to extend the health
of our engines.
I suggest we all question installation parameters of absolute type
measurement systems (even if you are happy with the numbers you get).
I invite those of you with the industry experience out there to contribute
to this discussion.
Thanks, Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal! |
Hi RV Listers!
Well, just back from Van's Homecoming BBQ and Fly-in up at the Aurora
Airport and in a word, wow. Below is a URL link to a web page I did on
the photos I took over the two days. There are multi-resolutions and
preview thumbnails for easy viewing.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/
Have a look and feel free to download any you'd like to keep or make
your screen backdrops.
If you haven't gone to a Homecoming before, or even if you have, I
highly recommend the trip. Very inspirational.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Finish Kit - #1763 - N442RV
Matronics EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Always buy a metal cutting blade even if for wood. When its gets dull,
throw it away.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
and working on the finish kit.
Thanks again
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> Tim,
> I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
multiple,
> so far.
>
> Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
>
> >
> > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
off
> > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> failed
> > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
that
> > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > best kind of blades?
> >
> > Thanks
> > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > Tim Bryan
> > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Mid Eastern Regional Fly-In |
Just a reminder that MERFI is this Friday, Saturday & Sunday. (Sept. 7, 8,
&9) at Marion Municipal Airport in Marion, Ohio. The Marion Pop-Corn
festival is held in the city during this event also. This year there will
be NO airshow. The field will not be closed. We are encouraging fly-by's
and would like to make this a "pilot friendly" fly-in. There is camping on
the field for $5 per night (Friday night free) and the entry fee will be $6
per day for Saturday and Sunday. Port-A-Potties will be set up in the
campground. No shower facilities though. We are trying to get back to the
grass roots type fly-in. There will be forums from 9 A.M. to about 1
P.M. E-Mail me OFF-List and I'll send you a forum schedule. Hope to see a
lot of RV's there again this year. AL
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I've got a really old Sears wood bandsaw, but they still make non-
ferrous metal cutting blades for it. It works really well when I
remember to use a little oil at the cut. Something else that works
so well you don't believe it is a Bosch handheld jigsaw. Man, with
the right blade in it, that thing is a revelation! It has to be the newer
kind of saw that moves the blade very slightly forwards and
backwards at the same time it is stroking up and down. With the
fine "sheet metal"blades and some good cutting oil it goes through
sheet like duck butter with very little waste.
And for straight cuts in bar or cast AL, Vermont American makes a
"non-ferrous" carbide blade for your chop saw (I use it in a 10" radial
saw). You have to clamp the stock securely, but the results look like
the cut has been milled and polished!
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
> band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just failed
> and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
> run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> best kind of blades?
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cinelogic inc.
(818)772-4777
fax 772-4733
sam(at)videoassist.com
http://www.videoassist.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Tim,
I've been using wood cutting blades for aluminum on my single speed 14"
Grizzly bandsaw (labeled "for wood only") for two years. I've used fine
teeth and coarse teeth all with great success. Sheet, angle, tube up to
1/4 inch thickness. The blades don't seem to wear out very fast with all
the cutting I've done on my -6A now in a "canoe stage" fuselage.
Richard Dudley
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
> is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
> nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
> and working on the finish kit.
>
> Thanks again
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> >
> > Tim,
> > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> multiple,
> > so far.
> >
> > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
> off
> > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> > failed
> > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
> that
> > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > > best kind of blades?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > Tim Bryan
> > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Tim,
I've been using wood cutting blades for aluminum on my single speed 14"
Grizzly bandsaw (labeled "for wood only") for two years. I've used fine
teeth and coarse teeth all with great success. Sheet, angle, tube up to
1/4 inch thickness. The blades don't seem to wear out very fast with all
the cutting I've done on my -6A now in a "canoe stage" fuselage.
Richard Dudley
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
> is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
> nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
> and working on the finish kit.
>
> Thanks again
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> >
> > Tim,
> > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> multiple,
> > so far.
> >
> > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
> off
> > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> > failed
> > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
> that
> > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > > best kind of blades?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > Tim Bryan
> > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures (More) |
John, did you ever get a scanned copy of the RVator article? I've got the
issue (I just have to get the scanner set up) in case you still need it.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperatures (More)
>
> I forgot to add to my earlier long request for information - can some kind
> person scan and e-mail me a photo from the 4th issue of 1999 of the RVAtor
> the photo of an idea used to help exit air ... it was some sort of grill
or
> series of punched out sections made up by an automotive shop for a Texas
> RV'er who got good results from it. Unfortunately my RVAtor of that issue
> got away from me somehow. thanks,
>
> fasching(at)amigo.net
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 7th ANNUAL RV Builders' Forum Oswego NY |
2001 Northeast RV Forum
(for Builders, Pilots and Enthusiasts)
Oswego County Airport, Fulton, New York (KFZY)
Saturday, September 15, 2001, with evening banquet included. (Also including informal
Friday 9/14 evening and Sunday 9/16 morning activities)
LOTS of good door prizes been donated from prime RV building suppliers/vendors
too.
DON'T forget our OSHKOSH sized discounts. Bring your lists and we fax in your
order that day....we get equally sizeable discounts as in OSHKOSH...that
savings alone could cover the event costs.
Seventh ANNUAL RV Builders' Forum
Mike Seager, RV instructor, will give RV instruction rides, in Factory RV6.
All day Friday, Saturday and Sunday as weather permits.
(SORRY all spaces are filled currently)
For other updates, save link & watch web site at:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/index.html
OUR CONTINUED SUCCESS IN RV FORUMS STILL FEATURES:
Shared RV pleasure rides - weather, pilots, and airplanes permitting.
Lectures/presentations - to cover a broad range of interesting subjects.
Low Registration Fee of: $35 ($40 at the door) covers Saturday's Forums &
Meals (Saturday's: breakfast, lunch, and supper).
SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES:
Friday night - Sept. 14, there will be an informal welcome weenie roast at the
hangar for arriving attendees. CAP selling food-fund raiser
Saturday - all day Sept 15, we will have the full day of interesting seminars and
activities. (meals included.) Saturday evening hanger banquet and
related speaker included.
Sunday - for those who can stay over (optional), there will be a breakfast in the
hangar followed by a group fly-out (for those with planes) to Lake Placid,
NY, or some other interesting destination TBD.
Note: Registration fee for RV pilots with RV airplanes is only $1.
Lodging: Quality Inn: 315-593-2444, Fulton Motor Lodge: 315- 598-6100. (See AOPA
Directory for more.)
Ground Transportation: Rides to/from the local motels will be provided for free.
Oswego County Airport: (KFZY) is uncontrolled and can have no-radio traffic in
the pattern.
Traffic pattern is 1300' msl. Please use normal pattern/radio procedures and be
careful!
100LL is available.
See airport directories and approach plates - we have a new ILS precision approach
(freq. 110.9).
Sincerely
David McManmon
RV6 N58DM 126 hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I'll second that. My bandsaws work great for cutting aluminum and I use fine tooth
wood blades in both of them. The time mine got dull was when my wife tried cutting
some steel one day while I was at work. Her response to "Honey, do you know how
my
bandsaw might have gotten so dull?" was, "Well, I see you cutting metal on it all
the time so I tried it to cut my steel window weights."
Gary Zilik
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I've been using wood cutting blades for aluminum on my single speed 14"
> Grizzly bandsaw (labeled "for wood only") for two years. I've used fine
> teeth and coarse teeth all with great success. Sheet, angle, tube up to
> 1/4 inch thickness. The blades don't seem to wear out very fast with all
> the cutting I've done on my -6A now in a "canoe stage" fuselage.
>
> Richard Dudley
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
> > is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> > availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
> > nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
> > and working on the finish kit.
> >
> > Thanks again
> > Tim Bryan
> > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> > > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> > > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> > > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> > multiple,
> > > so far.
> > >
> > > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
> > off
> > > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> > > failed
> > > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
> > that
> > > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > > > best kind of blades?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > > Tim Bryan
> > > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I've been using a table saw with a hollow ground planer blade. I think a
straight plywood blade works fine too. So far not a problem, but the blades
about done for, only $7 and it fit the tool I already had.
Marty in Brentwood TN, -6A fuselage side skin riveting.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
> band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
failed
> and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
> run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> best kind of blades?
>
> Thanks
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting band saw |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 9/4/01 17:06, Gary & Carolyn Zilik at zilik(at)bewellnet.com wrote:
>
> I'll second that. My bandsaws work great for cutting aluminum and I use fine
> tooth
> wood blades in both of them. The time mine got dull was when my wife tried
> cutting
> some steel one day while I was at work. Her response to "Honey, do you know
> how my
> bandsaw might have gotten so dull?" was, "Well, I see you cutting metal on it
> all
> the time so I tried it to cut my steel window weights."
>
> Gary Zilik
>Hello Gary how are you I am fine.
I think it was very naughty of you to tell that band saw blade story.
Feel like I haven't seen you in a month of Sundays, but then I don't get out
to the airport on Sundays on Sunday very much very much.
Can't help but wonder how the paint job is working.
Think I will go out and check it tomorrow.
Have you been doing any flying or building lately?
I am tentatively going to try to go to Lamar on Sat Morn but must return for
another reunion goat rope on Sat eve. Kent says he is going to try the
same, and we have agreed that you shouldn't have to fly lead for the
arrival.
Keep in touch
Denis
(Denis L. Walsh deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net)
Later
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Hi;
I've heard from several off list & several on another list that none of
the other RV models has any offset in the VS, it seems only the "9" calls
for it. I haven't been able to contact Van's yet (they need a 24hr hotline),
so I went ahead and mounted it in a neutral position. When I mount the
engine I may offset that. Even with the offset, a little rudder trim is
likely to be necessary.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> Sent: September 4, 2001 11:18 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: VS offset
>
>
> >
> >Hi Everyone;
> > I am about to mount my vertical stabilizer & the plans call for an
> >offset to the left. I assume this is because they assume that I will be
> >using a right hand prop. I plan to use the RWS redrive, which has a left
> >hand drive. I assume that I should make the VS offset to the
> right instead?
> > I am considering mounting it with no offset in case I end up with a
> >different redrive that has a right hand prop.( I have no reason
> not to use
> >Tracy's drive, but just want to keep options open). Can I
> achieve the same
> >affect by using a trim tab on the rudder, or is this too inefficient? Or
> >should I just remount the VS with opposite offset if I ever change prop
> >direction? Changing the mount wouldn't be hard, but changing the
> empennage
> >fairing would be a real pain in the ***.
> >S. Todd Bartrim
> >13B RV-9
> >C-FSTB (reserved)
> >Fuselage
>
>
> The amount of VS offset required to centre the ball with zero
> rudder pedal
> force is affected by a number of variables. The direction the
> prop rotates
> is a biggie. Another major factor is engine mount alignment (the
> mount on
> my -8 has the engine canted a bit to one side). Other factors are power
> output in cruise, prop efficiency, and prop diameter (the
> diameter might be
> a pretty small factor).
>
> Given all the variables, you might be best to just put the VS in the
> centre. If needed, you can put a small wedge on the rudder trailing edge
> to push it to one side in cruise. As you pointed out, you could move the
> VS later if you decide you are ready for another stint in fibreglas hell.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Tim: I've used a little 10" band saw from Sears for all of my Al rough
cutting and it works great. It is a variable speed unit but I never use
anything but the highest speed setting. One caution, it works great on Al
but not worth a darn on steel.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
unwritten rule that if you really screwed up and scared yourself, you
were honor bound to share it in front of everyone so that everyone benefited
from what you had learned.
With so many RV's flying and building operational experience; could this
group maintain a similar positive attitude toward those willing to share
their operational mis-judgments in the hope that others would not repeat
them?
I think this is a great Idea and I'll go ahead with one of mine that
happened this past weekend.
I was at an EAA chapter flyin in Stanley Nova Scotia, which is a old
Commonwealth training plan airfield that has three runways in a triangle.
The field was fairly busy with three gliders being towed up and winch
launched from the same runway that most of the powered aircraft were using.
The wind was light and some of the pilots were trying to use some of the
other, closer to the parking runways, creating some tense moments. I was
flying quite a bit taking people for their first RV rides as well as the
members of the family I was staying with. I was up on one short flight, and
while I was up a group of about 8 aircraft that were going to participate in
a flour bombing competition taxied onto the approch end of the runway that I
was in the pattern for. These guys were not getting out of the way very
fast when I was on final so on short final, slow, low with full flaps down,
I decided to do a 360 for some spacing. I did not speed up and retract the
flaps as I probably should have done. I kept my eyes out of the cockpit as I
did this circle at I was a bit worried about where one of the gliders was .
As I completed the circle, I took a quick look at the panel and noticed that
I was skiding a little and it gave me a little flutter in my gut.......low,
slow, in a bank and skidding a little....... I'm going to be a little more
careful about this next time.....
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
PS Great weekend though.....4 RVs on the field.....million mile vis on the
way home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Spears services... |
Could have even been a seizure or heart attack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dave Spears services...
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but does anyone know how this happened? Please no
> smart-ass answers, I don't know if his plane blew up, fell apart, or
> was
> shot down. Can someone tell me what happened?
The truth is, no one knows.
Witness accounts say the aircraft "banked, leveled, and then nosed into
the ground and exploded".
We could concoct whatever scenarios fit that behavior, but they would
be just speculation.
Apparently he had fuel on board... but engine status, airspeed,
airframe condition, all unknown.
I haven't even heard what the weather was at the time.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Dave Spears services... |
FAA prelim
**** 09/04/2001 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 09/04/2001
From: GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
B. Reg. No.: 910RS M/M: EXP Desc: 1994 DS1 HOMEBUILT BUGERT-WUST
Activity: Unknown Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: AIRCRAFT WAS SEEN CIRCLING AIRPORT WITH FLAPS DOWN, THEN SUDDENLY
PLUNGED TO THE GROUND, 1 FATAL, GRAYSLAKE, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dave Spears services...
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but does anyone know how this happened? Please no
> smart-ass answers, I don't know if his plane blew up, fell apart, or
> was
> shot down. Can someone tell me what happened?
The truth is, no one knows.
Witness accounts say the aircraft "banked, leveled, and then nosed into
the ground and exploded".
We could concoct whatever scenarios fit that behavior, but they would
be just speculation.
Apparently he had fuel on board... but engine status, airspeed,
airframe condition, all unknown.
I haven't even heard what the weather was at the time.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
Thanks, Mike.
It looks like it will work. We made the skirt stiffners and holding them in
place seems to cure our problem.
Again thanks all for the response.
Rollie & Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
The six calls for no offset. I put one in (about 1/2") and it flies center
ball in cruise, and I have no trim tab. You do not need to offset your
engine, because the engine mounts (at least for the six) are offset from the
factory. It's not near enough, though! Now I have a center ball with no
trim tab, and speed does not appear to be affected by offsetting the VS.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: VS offset
>
> Hi;
> I've heard from several off list & several on another list that
none of
> the other RV models has any offset in the VS, it seems only the "9" calls
> for it. I haven't been able to contact Van's yet (they need a 24hr
hotline),
> so I went ahead and mounted it in a neutral position. When I mount the
> engine I may offset that. Even with the offset, a little rudder trim is
> likely to be necessary.
> S. Todd Bartrim
> 13B RV-9
> C-FSTB (reserved)
> Fuselage
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> > Sent: September 4, 2001 11:18 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: VS offset
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Hi Everyone;
> > > I am about to mount my vertical stabilizer & the plans call for an
> > >offset to the left. I assume this is because they assume that I will be
> > >using a right hand prop. I plan to use the RWS redrive, which has a
left
> > >hand drive. I assume that I should make the VS offset to the
> > right instead?
> > > I am considering mounting it with no offset in case I end up with
a
> > >different redrive that has a right hand prop.( I have no reason
> > not to use
> > >Tracy's drive, but just want to keep options open). Can I
> > achieve the same
> > >affect by using a trim tab on the rudder, or is this too inefficient?
Or
> > >should I just remount the VS with opposite offset if I ever change prop
> > >direction? Changing the mount wouldn't be hard, but changing the
> > empennage
> > >fairing would be a real pain in the ***.
> > >S. Todd Bartrim
> > >13B RV-9
> > >C-FSTB (reserved)
> > >Fuselage
> >
> >
> > The amount of VS offset required to centre the ball with zero
> > rudder pedal
> > force is affected by a number of variables. The direction the
> > prop rotates
> > is a biggie. Another major factor is engine mount alignment (the
> > mount on
> > my -8 has the engine canted a bit to one side). Other factors are power
> > output in cruise, prop efficiency, and prop diameter (the
> > diameter might be
> > a pretty small factor).
> >
> > Given all the variables, you might be best to just put the VS in the
> > centre. If needed, you can put a small wedge on the rudder trailing
edge
> > to push it to one side in cruise. As you pointed out, you could move
the
> > VS later if you decide you are ready for another stint in fibreglas
hell.
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
> > khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> > Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nav Antena where? |
Sportcraft NAV antenna fits really easily in the wingtip. There is no drag.
There is not a better NAV antenna position available.
Just a thought.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine
All 12 volt system installed. FINALLY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Schnebeck" <schnebeck(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 FOR SALE |
Todd are you located in Kansas?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 8:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 FOR SALE
>
> Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
> Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
> Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
> First $7900.00. Moving soon so please call! Please contact offline at
> 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
I have been agonizing over the same problem for quite some time. I really
didn't want to weld onto my canopy frame. Did you make stiffeners like the
ones in the photos on Paul's web site?
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) finish kit
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rquinn1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side skirts
>
> Thanks, Mike.
> It looks like it will work. We made the skirt stiffners and holding them
in
> place seems to cure our problem.
> Again thanks all for the response.
> Rollie & Rod
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Interiors & Upholstry |
Hi all . . .
I've started thinking about what I am going to do to the inside of my 6A and
have questions for those who have gone before me:
Besides Cleaveland and Orndorff, are there any other reputable companies
specializing in RV interiors. I have seen examples of Becki Orndorff's and
Cleaveland's and they are both very nice, I just want to see everything
available and know all of my options before spending the money.
Also, my wife is contemplating an attempt at homemade seats. Any thoughts
from anyone on this? Best place to buy foam? Plans available? Etc.? Anyone
have some old seats for sale that just need recovering?
Thanks a bunch.
John Singer
Denver, CO
RV-6A N444JS
Just finished mounting empenage - waiting for Finish Kit.
www.jgsinger.com/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Interiors & Upholstery |
Oregon Aero does a nice (expensive) job.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JGSinger(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Interiors & Upholstry
Hi all . . .
I've started thinking about what I am going to do to the inside of my 6A and
have questions for those who have gone before me:
Besides Cleaveland and Orndorff, are there any other reputable companies
specializing in RV interiors. I have seen examples of Becki Orndorff's and
Cleaveland's and they are both very nice, I just want to see everything
available and know all of my options before spending the money.
Also, my wife is contemplating an attempt at homemade seats. Any thoughts
from anyone on this? Best place to buy foam? Plans available? Etc.? Anyone
have some old seats for sale that just need recovering?
Thanks a bunch.
John Singer
Denver, CO
RV-6A N444JS
Just finished mounting empenage - waiting for Finish Kit.
www.jgsinger.com/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
baffles.
On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't seem
like a good idea to me.
Thanks,
George McNutt, 6A
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Camille Hawthorne" <camillehawthorne(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I have a setup that I would not recommend as far as bandsaws are concerned. Mine
is a 14" Delta with an extension that enables it to cut through hardwood that
is 10 inches thick, which is great for making veneer. At present it has a 1"
wide blade with only a few teeth per inch. While cutting out the stiffeners I
was constantly fighting the blade's tendency to pull my fingers into it. I need
to get another blade, but it requires such a long blade that they are not easy
to find. Besides, who else could cut through a wing spar lengthwise like butter?
: ) It hasn't taken a finger yet, but I did hurt myself with a hacksaw
the other day......
Camille Hawthorne
RV-7Wings
-----What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just failed
and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
best kind of blades? ---------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)hotmail.com> |
George,
I have an RV-6 w/0360 . Same problem though. I went to the hardware store
and bought some stainless steel threaded rod and also a piece of stainless
steel channel, kind of a u shape. I attached one end of the rod to the rear
baffle then drilled and attached the other end to the aft part of the u
channel. Then attach the second rod to the forward part of the u channel and
forward part of the baffle. You still get a tight pull on your baffle fins
but the u channel curves around your oil line. I did wrap the channel with
some baffle material for some extra anti-chafe protection, but I have 70 hrs
on my plane now and no sign of any wear or contact with my set up and the
oil lines.
Scott Baldwin
N728P
RV-6
>From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
>Subject: RV-List: Baffles
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 22:43:08 -0700
>
>
>Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
>together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
>baffles.
>
>On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
>line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't
>seem
>like a good idea to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>George McNutt, 6A
>Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
09/05/2001 08:04:32 AM
I didn't like the safety wire idea, either. Instead, I used 1/16" control
wire cable from AS&S. I crimped an electrical fitting to one end (after
snipping off the lug) and threaded the control cable through the plastic
tubing. I then tensioned the cable and crimped a second fitting to the
other end. So far (20+ hours) it is working well. The longer term
solution, however, is to use the same cable with 8/32 threaded studs swaged
to the ends. With my current design, I cannot adjust the tension or remove
the cable without cutting it. AS&S can make custom cable assemblies as
described.
Good luck
Dean Pichon
RV-4
20+ hours
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "George McNutt" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 09/05/01 01:43 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Baffles
|
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
baffles.
On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't
seem
like a good idea to me.
Thanks,
George McNutt, 6A
Langley B.C.
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
09/05/2001 08:25:22 AM
As I start to get comfortable in my -4, I find myself thinking about
aerobatics. Nothing fancy, just loops and rolls like I used to do in my
Citabria. Before I start, however, I would like to get some dual
instruction in my aircraft. My dilemma is that at the 1375 pound gross
aerobatic limit, I'm not sure I can find a light enough instructor. The
(empty) plane weighs 1042 pounds (not too bad for a 180 hp with a constant
speed prop); I weigh 155 pounds (I could lose a few pounds). If I allow
for 16 gallons of fuel, I'm left with only 82 pounds for the instructor.
I've heard stories, seen pictures, etc., of dual aerobatics in RV-4's. I
would appreciate hearing from any Listers who have done dual aerobatics in
-4's (or -6's for that matter). I'm frustrated thinking that I can only do
solo aerobatics.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean
RV-4
Arlington, MA
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: small questions |
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
It's noisy until fuel is flowing through it.
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Don't know what kind of system you have. My carbureted -320 has the accel
pump built into the carb. You mean primer? don't believe FI systems have
an accelerator pump. Anyone else know?
Bryan Jones -8
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor |
Provided you don't put the max amount of G's on the aircraft, you can do
aerobatics in your plane while dual. I've been in the back of a -4 doing
very 'spirited' acro which fealt by my uncalibrated bottom to be around 3
G's. I weigh in at 180 and the pilot is pretty close to that....full fuel.
The plane is rated at its max aerobatic weight at 6 G's by my understanding.
So with two up, I believe you can safely do 2G maneuvers without causing
yourself undue stress about the airframe. 2G loops in an RV-4 are pretty
easy to do.....provided you are patient on the pull out. Bear in mind, my
experience in the RV line is from the BACK seat so I can't see airspeed or
the G meter...just what it feels like to me from back there. The roll
should be even less worry.
Again...opinion from a blatant amateur. But I've been there and done that
several times, in a couple of different -4's...oh, and a beautiful
yellow -6. He knows who he is...don't ya?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor
>
> As I start to get comfortable in my -4, I find myself thinking about
> aerobatics. Nothing fancy, just loops and rolls like I used to do in my
> Citabria. Before I start, however, I would like to get some dual
> instruction in my aircraft. My dilemma is that at the 1375 pound gross
> aerobatic limit, I'm not sure I can find a light enough instructor. The
> (empty) plane weighs 1042 pounds (not too bad for a 180 hp with a constant
> speed prop); I weigh 155 pounds (I could lose a few pounds). If I allow
> for 16 gallons of fuel, I'm left with only 82 pounds for the instructor.
>
> I've heard stories, seen pictures, etc., of dual aerobatics in RV-4's. I
> would appreciate hearing from any Listers who have done dual aerobatics in
> -4's (or -6's for that matter). I'm frustrated thinking that I can only
do
> solo aerobatics.
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Dean
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
> **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Rough cutting aluminum |
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
I have a Sears table saw (10") with a carbide tipped blade. It does a great
job of rough cutting aluminum, even up to 1/4 inch thick. Clamp the
aluminum firmly to the guide, and feed it gently.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
The correct speed for Aluminum is the same as for wood.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut off
band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just failed
and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws that
run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
best kind of blades?
Thanks
RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
I took .40 safety wire and pulled it through a piece of soft aluminum tubing
then just kink the tubing to miss the oil return line. I noticed some of the
plastic wire wrapping starting to soften from heat so I wouldn't trust
plastics.. just.02
Steven DiNieri
Niagara Falls, New York
RV-6A, P28A-160
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George McNutt
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 1:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Baffles
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
baffles.
On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't seem
like a good idea to me.
Thanks,
George McNutt, 6A
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: small questions |
No accelerator pumps with FI systems - no reason for it as the change in
intake pressure caused by opening the throttle results in a near
instantaneous injection of the correct amount of fuel - the whole point of
the operation.
Also, FI's require a whole different breed of boost pump. I didn't note the
earlier parts of this, but just in case - you cannot run pumps designed for
carburetors (engine or boost) with a FI. The pressures are to low.
Subject: Re: RV8-List: small questions
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones"
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
It's noisy until fuel is flowing through it.
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Don't know what kind of system you have. My carbureted -320 has the accel
pump built into the carb. You mean primer? don't believe FI systems have
an accelerator pump. Anyone else know?
Bryan Jones -8
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Being an ex machinist, I should have gotten into this thread earlier.
Aluminum should be cut at 400 feet per minute. Wood saws are usually 2000 or
more, this will work for a while on thin aluminum, but will shorten blade
life. If you cut steel at this speed, it will melt the blade. Mild steel is
cut at 100 fpm, and tool steel at 60.
For thinner materials, the pitch (teeth per inch) should be fine enough that
3 teeth are always in contact with the material, or it will tend to "snatch"
the material, and break teeth off the blade. I think 16 tpi is good for us,
assuming you are using a sheer or cutting disk to cut the sheet metal.
John RV8, engine coming Sunday.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Camille Hawthorne
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
I have a setup that I would not recommend as far as bandsaws are
concerned. Mine is a 14" Delta with an extension that enables it to cut
through hardwood that is 10 inches thick, which is great for making veneer.
At present it has a 1" wide blade with only a few teeth per inch. While
cutting out the stiffeners I was constantly fighting the blade's tendency to
pull my fingers into it. I need to get another blade, but it requires such a
long blade that they are not easy to find. Besides, who else could cut
through a wing spar lengthwise like butter? : ) It hasn't taken a finger
yet, but I did hurt myself with a hacksaw the other day......
Camille Hawthorne
RV-7Wings
-----What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I
had a cut off
band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It
just failed
and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable
bandsaws that
run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper
speed and
best kind of blades? ---------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
I used the standard "wire and tubing" arrangement, and even though it
looks kinda rinky-dink, after 300 hrs it has worked perfectly and shows
no sign of wear.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
================
George McNutt wrote:
>
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
> together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
> baffles.
>
> On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
> line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't seem
> like a good idea to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> George McNutt, 6A
> Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | First flight and website |
While the list was down I managed to first fly my RV-8A. Great fun. For more
details please check out my new website.
http://rv8a.tripod.com
The site still needs a lot of work but I did manage to post the first flight pics.
Jim Andrews
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA (Flying !)
Get 250 color business cards for FREE!
http://businesscards.lycos.com/vp/fastpath/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Window Films for Canopee |
> The film releases fumes over time and will not keep it's
> adhesion properties and you will have thousands of bubbles.
> Not to mention, you will ruin your canopy trying to take it off.
> The problem is that 3M and other films are not compatible
> with acrylic or plexi. It's not a question
> of if it will bubble, the question is when.
Thanks, Paul.
Apparently, there was a product called aerogold (web page is at
http://www.flightenvironments.com/html/prodinfo4.htm) that was claimed
to work. However, the company no longer sells it. Does anyone have
experience with that one? Or anything non-3M (but permanent!) that works?
/iaw
--
Ivo Welch,
http://welch.som.yale.edu/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <emmanuelle.j.richard(at)boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
I bought a 9" table top variable speed bandsaw from Sears (about $200) with metal
cutting blades. Works great for aluminum (1/4" max), soft metal, wood, plastic,
rubber - not steel. The instructions includes recommended speeds to use
for various materials.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor |
> As I start to get comfortable in my -4, I find myself thinking about
> aerobatics. Nothing fancy, just loops and rolls like I used to do in my
> Citabria. Before I start, however, I would like to get some dual
> instruction in my aircraft. My dilemma is that at the 1375 pound gross
> aerobatic limit, I'm not sure I can find a light enough instructor. The
> (empty) plane weighs 1042 pounds (not too bad for a 180 hp with a constant
> speed prop); I weigh 155 pounds (I could lose a few pounds). If I allow
> for 16 gallons of fuel, I'm left with only 82 pounds for the instructor.
>
> I've heard stories, seen pictures, etc., of dual aerobatics in RV-4's. I
> would appreciate hearing from any Listers who have done dual aerobatics in
> -4's (or -6's for that matter). I'm frustrated thinking that I can only
do
> solo aerobatics.
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Dean
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
Dean,
You do indeed need to observe the gross weight and CG limits for maneuvers
at or near the 6G limit -- Aerobatic Category. All of the maneuvers you
reference however can easily, and should be, performed at 4 Gs or less.
Van's recommended entry for loops for example is 3Gs. I know official FAA
categories do not appy to Experimentals, but the Utility category has a
+4.4G limit. I believe that if you stay within Utility Category limits you
can do so at or near gross weight. Someone should verify this with Van's.
Be careful, fly safely!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 119.7 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
The brake line idea has been proven to work well. I have seen it on many
RV's. My engine temps have been very high during break in, plus I have been
flying in temps around 110 degrees (Yuck!) after 20 hours, there doesn't
seem to be a problem with the installation. It has been as hot as it ever
is going to be inside the cowl, so if it were a problem, I think I would
have seen something by now. Don't re invent the wheel if you don't have to.
It's a 10 minute job if you do it this way, and possibly a 2-3 hour job if
you try something else. Plus, this way is free! (assuming you have leftover
brake line and safety wire)
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Baffles
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
> together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
> baffles.
>
> On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
> line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't
seem
> like a good idea to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> George McNutt, 6A
> Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
>
> > >A couple of people told me to
> > >line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W (and are the section
> > >lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's only going to be
> > >accurate in a calm wind, right?
>
>Your quite right, you can use your GPS to do this job.
>
>Some time ago I put together a short paper describing how to determine
>TAS from three GPS runs in different directions. By solving the vector
>triangles for these runs and assuming the wind direction and speed is
>unchanged it is possible to resolve the TAS. But, to answer your
>question, a by-product of this calculation is that the 'true' headings
>for each run can also be resolved (that is unless you are flying in a
>constant yaw). These can be compared with the compass heading to
>prepare a deviation chart.
>
>I have spelled this out in this paper and suggest you take a look. Kevin
>Horton has this paper on his website although I am not sure of the web
>address.
>
>That said, a compass swing on the ground would be quicker, easier,
>cheaper to do; and if you've already got the GPS how often will you be
>looking at the compass?
>
>Doug Gray
Doug's paper can be found from my Flight Test Links page, at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/ftlinks.html
Go to the "Determining TAS from GPS data" section.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV- Rivet Question |
I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble. Kinda dumb
question...
I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the original emp
and wing kits.
Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a shelf
life and age beyond when they are useable?
thanks
Rick Murphy
empanage - HS
> ----------
> From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> To: Server
> Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
>
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
>
> > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > how I know)
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > mushroom set is now
> > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > to polish it back to
> > > that mirror finish?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at:
> > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
> What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
> I spend
> the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
> is it
> better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
> Horz.
> Stab. that don't look real pretty.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Starting RV7A empannage :-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor |
>
> > As I start to get comfortable in my -4, I find myself thinking about
> > aerobatics. Nothing fancy, just loops and rolls like I used to do in my
> > Citabria. Before I start, however, I would like to get some dual
> > instruction in my aircraft. My dilemma is that at the 1375 pound gross
> > aerobatic limit, I'm not sure I can find a light enough instructor. The
> > (empty) plane weighs 1042 pounds (not too bad for a 180 hp with a constant
> > speed prop); I weigh 155 pounds (I could lose a few pounds). If I allow
> > for 16 gallons of fuel, I'm left with only 82 pounds for the instructor.
> >
> > I've heard stories, seen pictures, etc., of dual aerobatics in RV-4's. I
> > would appreciate hearing from any Listers who have done dual aerobatics in
> > -4's (or -6's for that matter). I'm frustrated thinking that I can only
>do
> > solo aerobatics.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
> > Dean
> > RV-4
> > Arlington, MA
>
>
>Dean,
>
>You do indeed need to observe the gross weight and CG limits for maneuvers
>at or near the 6G limit -- Aerobatic Category. All of the maneuvers you
>reference however can easily, and should be, performed at 4 Gs or less.
>Van's recommended entry for loops for example is 3Gs. I know official FAA
>categories do not appy to Experimentals, but the Utility category has a
>+4.4G limit. I believe that if you stay within Utility Category limits you
>can do so at or near gross weight. Someone should verify this with Van's.
>
>Be careful, fly safely!
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, 119.7 hrs.
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
While I'm sure lots of folks have done aerobatics at weights higher than
the aerobatic gross weight that Van has specified, you need to understand
that there is a lot less margin for error. People learning aerobatics are
more prone to screwing up the manoeuvre, and getting the nose way below the
horizon with lots of airspeed. It would be easy to pull more g than
intended, especially at aft CG.
Yes, I'm sure you can go a whole range of nice aerobatics without exceeding
4.4 g, if you don't screw up. Is it smart? Maybe not.
Not a flame - just my opinion offered for your entertainment :)
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor |
Dean,
My advice is to find a lightweight instructor, fly with half fuel and go up
to high altitude for practice. With altitude, you won't need to pull hard
to avoid hitting a planet. That nice CS prop of yours can be used to slow
down if you accidently split-s out of a roll. The airframes can take the
airspeed, i.e. the rockets, it's the hard pull at those speeds that will get
you. Don't do that! With altitude, you don't need to. Fly with an eye on
the g meter. Relax that pull when the needle moves past 4 g's. Have fun,
it's a blast!
If it's any comfort to you, these airframes can take 4.5 g's with two 160 #
people without any known problems. The -4 in my hangar has been doing so a
couple times a week for about 10 yrs.
Rick Caldwell, the liteweight
-6, the yellow one
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor
>Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:01:26 -0400
>
>
>Provided you don't put the max amount of G's on the aircraft, you can do
>aerobatics in your plane while dual. I've been in the back of a -4 doing
>very 'spirited' acro which fealt by my uncalibrated bottom to be around 3
>G's. I weigh in at 180 and the pilot is pretty close to that....full fuel.
>The plane is rated at its max aerobatic weight at 6 G's by my
>understanding.
>So with two up, I believe you can safely do 2G maneuvers without causing
>yourself undue stress about the airframe. 2G loops in an RV-4 are pretty
>easy to do.....provided you are patient on the pull out. Bear in mind, my
>experience in the RV line is from the BACK seat so I can't see airspeed or
>the G meter...just what it feels like to me from back there. The roll
>should be even less worry.
>
>Again...opinion from a blatant amateur. But I've been there and done that
>several times, in a couple of different -4's...oh, and a beautiful
>yellow -6. He knows who he is...don't ya?
>
>Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:21 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Ultra-light weight aerobatics instructor
>
>
> >
> > As I start to get comfortable in my -4, I find myself thinking about
> > aerobatics. Nothing fancy, just loops and rolls like I used to do in my
> > Citabria. Before I start, however, I would like to get some dual
> > instruction in my aircraft. My dilemma is that at the 1375 pound gross
> > aerobatic limit, I'm not sure I can find a light enough instructor. The
> > (empty) plane weighs 1042 pounds (not too bad for a 180 hp with a
>constant
> > speed prop); I weigh 155 pounds (I could lose a few pounds). If I allow
> > for 16 gallons of fuel, I'm left with only 82 pounds for the instructor.
> >
> > I've heard stories, seen pictures, etc., of dual aerobatics in RV-4's.
>I
> > would appreciate hearing from any Listers who have done dual aerobatics
>in
> > -4's (or -6's for that matter). I'm frustrated thinking that I can only
>do
> > solo aerobatics.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
> > Dean
> > RV-4
> > Arlington, MA
> > **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> > Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> > confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> > only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> > the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as
>possible.****
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal! |
Matt,
Great pics...
Larry K. Dysinger
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal!
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:59:35 -0700
--> RV8-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi RV Listers!
Well, just back from Van's Homecoming BBQ and Fly-in up at the Aurora
Airport and in a word, wow. Below is a URL link to a web page I did on
the photos I took over the two days. There are multi-resolutions and
preview thumbnails for easy viewing.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/
Have a look and feel free to download any you'd like to keep or make
your screen backdrops.
If you haven't gone to a Homecoming before, or even if you have, I
highly recommend the trip. Very inspirational.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Finish Kit - #1763 - N442RV
Matronics EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | color of rollover bar |
All,
I am looking for input on the color of the canopy rollover bar. I have
seen primarily white/gray and black. Black would seem to have the
advantage of minimizing glare, whereas white/gray would seem less
obtrusive in your field of view. Anybody out there flown an -8 with
white/gray and one with black and have comments either way?
Thanks,
Kelly
-8QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy side skirts |
Yes we did make the "finger type" stiffners similar to the ones shown on
Pauls photos. We have not completely installed them yet but clecoed in we
can apply pressure where the top pop rivets will fasten them to the frame and
the skirt pulls in as much as we need. Also I understand the the new RV 7s
and 8s have this modification.
Good luck
Rollie & Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV- Rivet Question |
Rick,
I checked into this indirectly because some of my rivets drove easy and
others took more hits / higher pressure. I was told that they harden as they
age, but as long as the shop head forms ok without cracking, to not worry
about it. My kit is about 2 years old, but I have no idea how old the rivets
are.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Murphy, Richard James (Rick) <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
>
> I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble. Kinda
dumb
> question...
>
> I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the original emp
> and wing kits.
>
> Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a shelf
> life and age beyond when they are useable?
>
> thanks
>
> Rick Murphy
> empanage - HS
> > ----------
> > From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> > To: Server
> > Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
> >
> >
> > Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > > how I know)
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > > mushroom set is now
> > > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > > to polish it back to
> > > > that mirror finish?
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > Visit my web site at:
> > > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> >
> > What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go? Should
> > I spend
> > the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished, but
> > is it
> > better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of the
> > Horz.
> > Stab. that don't look real pretty.
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Munn, Mike" <mmunn(at)jajones.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV8a |
From the RV list, it seems that a Niagara or Stewart Warner is the way to
go, especially in warmer climates (Southern US). I am installing the
Niagara on the baffle behind the cylinder. Not yet done though, but soon.
Mike Munn
RV8 QB, engine installed, completing wiring.
Email: mmunn(at)jajones.com
-----Original Message-----
From: lorin l frank [mailto:llfrank(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 5:07 PM
To: Rv8 list
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
--> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from
Lycoming. My
question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat
exchanger) for
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for
"hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that
they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner
out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the
cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
There are companies that will make a blade any size and for different type
metals.
Look in the yellow pages. If you can't find one check with a machine shop or
metal fabricating co. to see where they get their blades. I have been using a
craftsman 10 inch band saw with a metal blade and it works fine. The only
problem I have encountered is aluminum dust building up on the rubber band
around the drive wheel which will kick the blade off after a lot of use if not
cleaned.
Earl RV4
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the speed
> is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
> nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my fuselage
> and working on the finish kit.
>
> Thanks again
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> >
> > Tim,
> > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for years.
> > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut starts
> > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I am
> > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> multiple,
> > so far.
> >
> > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a cut
> off
> > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> > failed
> > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
> that
> > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed and
> > > best kind of blades?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > Tim Bryan
> > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every flight
in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
was, that's the way I understood it!)
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat can
fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have installed
it.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: color of rollover bar |
I recently saw an RV4 with a chrome plated roll bar that looked super. I
plan to
do that to my 4.
Earl RV4
"Kelly A. Scott" wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I am looking for input on the color of the canopy rollover bar. I have
> seen primarily white/gray and black. Black would seem to have the
> advantage of minimizing glare, whereas white/gray would seem less
> obtrusive in your field of view. Anybody out there flown an -8 with
> white/gray and one with black and have comments either way?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kelly
> -8QB fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV- Rivet Question |
Bill,
Thanks for the feedback. Years ago I read about people keeping rivets in the
refrig to keep them cool and "fresh". So I was a little concerned about my
rivets.
When I get (note that I didn't say if) my -4 flying, I'm betting it will be
the oldest-new RV. I had the emp shipped in 86 and the wings in 87.
I had a couple of distractions along the way.
Rick
> ----------
> From: Bill Christie[SMTP:billc(at)dancris.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:53 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
>
>
> Rick,
> I checked into this indirectly because some of my rivets drove easy and
> others took more hits / higher pressure. I was told that they harden as
> they
> age, but as long as the shop head forms ok without cracking, to not worry
> about it. My kit is about 2 years old, but I have no idea how old the
> rivets
> are.
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Murphy, Richard James (Rick) <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:47 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
>
>
>
> >
> > I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble. Kinda
> dumb
> > question...
> >
> > I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the original
> emp
> > and wing kits.
> >
> > Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a
> shelf
> > life and age beyond when they are useable?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Rick Murphy
> > empanage - HS
> > > ----------
> > > From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> > > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> > > To: Server
> > > Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Besing wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > > > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > > > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > > > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > > > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > > > how I know)
> > > >
> > > > Paul
> > > >
> > > > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > > > mushroom set is now
> > > > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > > > to polish it back to
> > > > > that mirror finish?
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > > Visit my web site at:
> > > > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > >
> > > What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go?
> Should
> > > I spend
> > > the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished,
> but
> > > is it
> > > better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of
> the
> > > Horz.
> > > Stab. that don't look real pretty.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
Tracy Saylor sells these for the 6. I considered it but then thought there
would be a lot of hand switches on the stick as I went between nav/com,
engine monitor, clock changes with the right hand and throttle/prop/mixture
changes with the left. But, these decisions are very individual. Most past
commenters on the subject have said they got used to flying with the left
hand in a very short time.
Ross
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming.
> My
> question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger)
> for
> the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
> weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of
> Niagara Air Parts
Always buy expensive tools/parts and only cry once.
> Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling
> intake.
In your climate a left-rear baffle mount would work well.
See Jim's installation at:
http://rv8a.tripod.com/engine.html
Firewall space is precious - and seems a cowl intake will feed all that
warmed air to the engine cylinders on that side...
YMMV
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Steward Warner vs Niagara |
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
Steward Warners can only be purchased by a few select distributors like
PACIFIC OIL COOLER SERVICE 800-866-7335. This is the one to buy. The
Niagara is a very old model of the Steward Warner in existence when the two
companies were one. The true Steward Warner has evolved since then. Give
Pacific Oil Coolers a call and they will tell you ALL about it.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Gary Gunn wrote:
>
>
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
Being lazy, I'd do the simple thing & put your primary
instruments on the right side & fly from the right seat.
It really is easy to adjust to swapping hands, though.
Charlie
RV-4, sold;
BD-4, bought (LH stick)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
09/05/2001 04:38:46 PM
I have not installed a Hobbs meter in my -4. Instead, I have an E.I.
"Super Clock". It is wired to record engine time. The cumulative engine
timer runs whenever the bus voltage is above 13.2 volts - which is whenever
the alternator is running. This cumulative time is permanently stored in
memory. The clock also has a "trip timer" that starts when the master
switch is turned on and stops when the master is returned to off. These
two times are generally very close and are what I enter into my log book.
At most of the flight schools where I have rented aircraft, the tradition
seems to be to multiply the engine time by 1.2 to estimate Hobbs time if
the Hobbs is not working or installed.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Paul Besing" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 09/05/01 03:46 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
|
What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every flight
in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
was, that's the way I understood it!)
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
Paul, the uMonitor has a "Hobbs Meter"!
Take another look at the manual. I have been running the meter in my
RV-6 since first flight (310 hrs ago).
Sam Buchanan
===================
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
> are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
>
> On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every flight
> in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
> how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
> was, that's the way I understood it!)
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
Paul,
My RMI uMonitor has a total time recorder. You set the rpm that you use in
cruise and it records the time based on that. It reads in the same spot as
the flight time. You turn the knob full CW and it will display TT.
Rick Caldwell
-6, 259 hrs in the uMonitor
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
>Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:46:11 -0700
>
>
>What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
>are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
>
>On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every flight
>in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
>how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
>goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
>was, that's the way I understood it!)
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A N197AB Arizona
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Flying
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
The practice of logging 1.2 x Tach time works reasonably well when you are
doing lots of pattern work. It's not very accurate, however, when your just
cruising along at 65% or 75% power. I have only the Tach time in my Stinson
and find that it's pretty close to "real time", based on my watch, when
cruising along at about 24 squared.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
>
> I have not installed a Hobbs meter in my -4. Instead, I have an E.I.
> "Super Clock". It is wired to record engine time. The cumulative engine
> timer runs whenever the bus voltage is above 13.2 volts - which is
whenever
> the alternator is running. This cumulative time is permanently stored in
> memory. The clock also has a "trip timer" that starts when the master
> switch is turned on and stops when the master is returned to off. These
> two times are generally very close and are what I enter into my log book.
> At most of the flight schools where I have rented aircraft, the tradition
> seems to be to multiply the engine time by 1.2 to estimate Hobbs time if
> the Hobbs is not working or installed.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
>
>
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> | | "Paul Besing" |
> | | | | > |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
> | | ronics.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 09/05/01 03:46 PM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | rv-list |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> |
|
> | To:
|
> | cc:
|
> | bcc:
|
> | Subject: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
|
>
>
> What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
> are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
>
> On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every
flight
> in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
> how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
> was, that's the way I understood it!)
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
09/05/2001 02:27:28 PM,
Serialize complete at 09/05/2001 02:27:28 PM
Gary,
If you think about it, you have probably always been flying with your left
hand and throttle in right hand if you trained in Cessnas or Pipers (or
Aeroncas or...). I considered doing the left hand throttle, too, then
thought about that I am actually more used to flying with the left hand
than right hand anyway and decided it didn't matter.
Scott
RV6 closing left wing
"Gary Gunn"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
09/05/2001 12:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
it.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
There are two functions on the uMonitor. A tach and a flight timer. The
tach records based on engine RPM, and slows downs or speeds up based on your
RPM. If you have it set at 2400 RPM, and your engine is running at 1200
RPM, it records one hour tach time for every 2 hours of clock time. If you
are over 2400 RPM, it records faster than clock time by the same scale. I
bet if you were to look at the tach when you start up and when you shut down
compared to your stopwatch, it will be off.
The flight timer function on the unit only goes to 25.5 hours and then
resets itself. It is intended as a flight timer that you use for your
logbook, not as a total aircraft time. I just got off the phone with Ron at
RMI to verify this. Now, if you can make the flight time function not reset
after 25 hours, I'd love to know how to do it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
>
> Paul, the uMonitor has a "Hobbs Meter"!
>
> Take another look at the manual. I have been running the meter in my
> RV-6 since first flight (310 hrs ago).
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ===================
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter,
or
> > are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
> >
> > On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every
flight
> > in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to
determine
> > how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> > goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish
it
> > was, that's the way I understood it!)
> >
> > Thanks..
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
dear listers
i have a hobbs meter with 2 wires. do i hook them up to some sort of pressure
switch via manifold with the oil pressure sensor? if so where can i get the
oil pressure switch? how does it work, do i feed 14 volts to it?
scott
tampa
wife leaving, soon back to work on the rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
gary
someone much wiser than i suggested flying with your left hand, as you were
probably trained that way while tuning radios with your right hand. he said
you would be used to it about 1/2 way down the runway ;-)
i put a throttle quad in my 6a but i put it in the center,
look at my picture at:
http://members5.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/compact_slide_show.pl?album_ite
m_id=3167481
the quadrant isn't there, but you can get the idea.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Just a clarification, the tach time on the uMonitor is not accurate across
all power settings. It is only accurate at one RPM. If you have the engine
running slower than that RPM, the clock slows down. If you have it running
faster than that set RPM, it goes faster. Only at the preset RPM (you can
set this RPM) does it tick 1:1 with an hour.
I noticed this when I was flying my time off, and realized that I was flying
for 1.5 hours, and it only read 1.1 hours. That particular flight I was
doing slow flight. My RPM's were at 1900 RPM or so, and my tach is set to
record at 2400 RPM. So, since the engine was turning slower, so was the
clock. I got on the ground and said, "Hey! That flight was longer than
that!"
The reasoning behind this is that it shows how much your engine is working.
If you fly at 2200 RPM's most of the time, your engine will last longer
(theoretically) than if you ran it at 2700 RPM's. So, actual clock time
might be 2000, but your engine has only been run as if it were 1500 hours.
Guess what? You have 500 more hours you can put on your engine because of
your conservative power settings.
This can be kind of frustrating when you are trying to get your 40 hours
flown off and the timer is going slower!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
I'd have to agree with that. Over the weekend, I flew a Piper Dakota from
St. Paul, MN to South Bend, IN and back, with a stop at Chicago/Meigs and
Rochester MN. The tach time for the trip was 8.1 and the Hobbs was 8.3.
This was at 65% cruise power.
And yes, I did spend a fair bit of that time thinking how much nicer (and
faster) it will be when
my -6A is done :-).
Cheers,
Brad
RV6AQB...
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
The practice of logging 1.2 x Tach time works reasonably well when you are
doing lots of pattern work. It's not very accurate, however, when your just
cruising along at 65% or 75% power. I have only the Tach time in my Stinson
and find that it's pretty close to "real time", based on my watch, when
cruising along at about 24 squared.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
>
> I have not installed a Hobbs meter in my -4. Instead, I have an E.I.
> "Super Clock". It is wired to record engine time. The cumulative engine
> timer runs whenever the bus voltage is above 13.2 volts - which is
whenever
> the alternator is running. This cumulative time is permanently stored in
> memory. The clock also has a "trip timer" that starts when the master
> switch is turned on and stops when the master is returned to off. These
> two times are generally very close and are what I enter into my log book.
> At most of the flight schools where I have rented aircraft, the tradition
> seems to be to multiply the engine time by 1.2 to estimate Hobbs time if
> the Hobbs is not working or installed.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
>
>
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> | | "Paul Besing" |
> | | | | > |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
> | | ronics.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 09/05/01 03:46 PM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | rv-list |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> |
|
> | To:
|
> | cc:
|
> | bcc:
|
> | Subject: RV-List: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs?
|
>
>
> What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
> are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
>
> On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every
flight
> in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
> how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
> was, that's the way I understood it!)
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Scott and Gary,
I plan to switch the controls of my 8. Since learning in a 140 Cessna I'm
more at ease with the stick in my left hand and throttle in the right. I
don't know about the 6 but after talking to Van's I found it was not just as
simple as moving the throttle to the right side. I will have to make
bulkhead changes and order one skin without pre-punching. Also some changes
to the forward baggage compartment. Not to mention reversing the layout for
the throttle mounting.
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
Gary,
If you think about it, you have probably always been flying with your left
hand and throttle in right hand if you trained in Cessnas or Pipers (or
Aeroncas or...). I considered doing the left hand throttle, too, then
thought about that I am actually more used to flying with the left hand
than right hand anyway and decided it didn't matter.
Scott
RV6 closing left wing
"Gary Gunn"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
09/05/2001 12:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
it.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv 6 quadrant picture |
http://members5.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/compact_slide_show.pl?album_ite
m_id=3167482
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
Scott,
Simple wiring for a hobbs....
Pick up a pressure switch at Napa ect
5 to 10 psi range will work. Normally open
is what you want. Get one with 1/8 inch
pipe thread which will screw into alot of
places in the Lyc case oil gallery.
You can ground one side of this press
switch and then run the other to the ground
side of your hobbs. 12V power goes to the +
side from a fuse or C/B
Stewart N273SB RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Gary,
I felt the same way as you and came up with a left hand throttle for my RV-6 because
I'd been flying Citabras for awhile, and I like how it came out.
You can see a picture at the bottom of the page:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/429050/guest.phtml
BUT....When I went up to fly with Mike Seager for my transition training, I got
to fly with my left hand because of the center engine controls. I've got to
say that I DID notice a difference the first day, having to mentally think about
what hand was doing what.
I went out to fly on the second day and it wasn't until the day was 1/2 over that
I realized I was flying wiht the "wrong" hand.
If I were to do it again, I'd put the controls in the middle so you can share the
flying with friends.
Laird Owens RV-6, 340 hrs
O-360, Hartzell (installed after the pic was taken)
SoCal
Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
it.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
> i have a hobbs meter with 2 wires. do i hook them up to some sort of
pressure
> switch via manifold with the oil pressure sensor? if so where can i get
the
> oil pressure switch? how does it work, do i feed 14 volts to it?
Yep, it's just a pressure activated relay. You run 12+ volts in, and it
passes the voltage to your Hobbs when the oil pressure is above a certain
small amount. Van's 2000 catalog, pg 18.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <jjessen(at)cmbinfo.com> |
| Subject: | Interiors & Upholstry |
Matt Drale posted a message that contained his shots at the RV Homecoming.
The link is: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/
Pic #63 has a leather interior, with sidewall carpeting, and so on. I'd
love to know what something like this weighs, who did it, etc. The N number
is 766HS and is registered to Harold Smith. Is anyone familiar with Harold
and know how I can reach him?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: JGSinger(at)aol.com
Sent: 9/5/01 12:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Interiors & Upholstry
Hi all . . .
I've started thinking about what I am going to do to the inside of my 6A
and
have questions for those who have gone before me:
Besides Cleaveland and Orndorff, are there any other reputable companies
specializing in RV interiors. I have seen examples of Becki Orndorff's
and
Cleaveland's and they are both very nice, I just want to see everything
available and know all of my options before spending the money.
Also, my wife is contemplating an attempt at homemade seats. Any
thoughts
from anyone on this? Best place to buy foam? Plans available? Etc.?
Anyone
have some old seats for sale that just need recovering?
Thanks a bunch.
John Singer
Denver, CO
RV-6A N444JS
Just finished mounting empenage - waiting for Finish Kit.
www.jgsinger.com/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim Installation |
For those that are following along and asking questions, I've finished
up about half the electric aileron trim installation. The servo
mounting and access panel is now complete. Next up is designing and
building the trim tab. I'll have that done probably next week.
http://bmnellis.com
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Steward Warner vs Niagara |
> Steward Warners can only be purchased by a few select distributors like
> PACIFIC OIL COOLER SERVICE 800-866-7335. This is the one to buy. The
> Niagara is a very old model of the Steward Warner in existence when the
two
> companies were one. The true Steward Warner has evolved since then. Give
> Pacific Oil Coolers a call and they will tell you ALL about it.
>
> Ross
Ross, good info, thanks. I called them, and after some discussion ordered a
Stewart Warner to replace my Niagara. My oil temps are not out of control,
but at airport ambient temperatures over 80 degrees oil temp runs around 198
in cruise and can go to 230 in an extended climb. At 90 ambient it is even
worse, at 70 it's no problem. This doesn't leave much headroom.
I'll swap it Friday evening and fly to Wenatchee on Saturday for a
back-to-back comparison.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 199.7 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | World's Shortest Airport (RV related: He's building an -8 |
My neighbor, RV-8 builder Andy McCain, will be on Ripley's
Believe It or Not tonight on (I think) cable channel TBS at
7:00 PM central time landing a Piper Cub on the roof of a
Pontiac. I knew they were good for something....
Take a break & watch a good ole boy from Mississippi enjoy
his 15 (probably 3) minutes of fame.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
>
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle
> quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left
> seat
> can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand
> and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for
> the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
> installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
Gary, check out this shot of Laird Owen's panel:
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/images/Owens_RV-6.jpg
My panel is laid out a little different instrument-wise, but I've
placed the throttle and mixture in roughly the same location. I will
send a scanned picture of mine off line.
The problem for a -6 if you are any size is that a quadrant eats into
your cabin space.
If you look closely you will see his flap switch and carb heat knob all
within easy reach of the hand on the throttle. You will see my
controls placed as easy-to-hand.
I am not in the air yet, but have "flown" this setup quite a bit going
through not only normal operations but emergency operations as well. I
moved some things a little bit as a result of those sessions, but I
think my configuration will work out fine, for me.
And by the way we tried it from the right seat with an emergency
landing by my wife in mind - she could reach across to operate the
throttle ok.
Another benefit of a left-side throttle in a -6(a) is with your right
hand on the stick, your right arm and elbow are tucked in and the
posture actually makes the cabin seem a bit more roomy for your
passenger as opposed to the pilot's right hand on the center
throttle...
It bears thought...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8a |
My Niagra oil cooler goes on the aft side of the #4 cooling baffle. This
works well with oil temps generally around 185 degrees F. For pictures, see
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/oilcooler.html.
Jerry Carter
8A, 37 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
>
> We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
> question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
> the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
> weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
> Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
> Thanks,
> Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8a |
Lorin,
I asked a bunch of people as well as vendors (and rebuilders) of oil coolers
at Osh this year and the overwhelming concensus is to stay away from
positech. I am building an RV8A and putting in a Bart Lalonde 0-360. I plan
to use a Swewart Warner unit. I live in Phoenix, AZ and need all the margin
I can get. Bear in mind that this is a compilation of many conversations and
note collecting. I have never used either one in an airplane. I have used a
Stewart Warner as a mod on a Porsche 911S with excellent results.
Bill Christie
----- Original Message -----
From: lorin l frank <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
>
> We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
> question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
> the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
> weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
> Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
> Thanks,
> Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
Hi Stewart,
In the past I once suggested mounting a pressure switch direct to the engine
block. I was advised by others that it would be wiser to mount such devices
remotely on the firewall due to fact that engine vibration can and does
cause component failures that can lead to severe oil loss.
I pass this on to you and other listers to consider and act upon as you see
fit.
I chose to remote mount all such devices.
Jim in Kelowna - drilling canopy carefully.
---- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: speaking of Hobbs?
>
> Scott,
> Simple wiring for a hobbs....
> Pick up a pressure switch at Napa ect
> 5 to 10 psi range will work. Normally open
> is what you want. Get one with 1/8 inch
> pipe thread which will screw into alot of
> places in the Lyc case oil gallery.
> You can ground one side of this press
> switch and then run the other to the ground
> side of your hobbs. 12V power goes to the +
> side from a fuse or C/B
>
> Stewart N273SB RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tmosher(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV- Rivet Question |
I don't really see how normal rivets would change temper unless they were
exposed to high heat - if the rivets are clean and uncorroded, nothing would
stop you from using them. The only instance is if they were 2017 rivets
above 3/16 inch in diameter or 2024 rivets which are required to be kept in
dry ice or refrigerated before use - otherwise they would be too hard to
drive and must be reheated before use.
Just my two cents worth
Tom
N787RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
>
> Bill,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Years ago I read about people keeping rivets in
the
> refrig to keep them cool and "fresh". So I was a little concerned about my
> rivets.
>
> When I get (note that I didn't say if) my -4 flying, I'm betting it will
be
> the oldest-new RV. I had the emp shipped in 86 and the wings in 87.
>
> I had a couple of distractions along the way.
>
> Rick
>
> > ----------
> > From: Bill Christie[SMTP:billc(at)dancris.com]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:53 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> >
> >
> > Rick,
> > I checked into this indirectly because some of my rivets drove easy and
> > others took more hits / higher pressure. I was told that they harden as
> > they
> > age, but as long as the shop head forms ok without cracking, to not
worry
> > about it. My kit is about 2 years old, but I have no idea how old the
> > rivets
> > are.
> >
> > Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Murphy, Richard James (Rick) <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:47 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble.
Kinda
> > dumb
> > > question...
> > >
> > > I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the original
> > emp
> > > and wing kits.
> > >
> > > Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a
> > shelf
> > > life and age beyond when they are useable?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > Rick Murphy
> > > empanage - HS
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> > > > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> > > > To: Server
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Paul Besing wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > > > > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > > > > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > > > > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > > > > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > > > > how I know)
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > > > > mushroom set is now
> > > > > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > > > > to polish it back to
> > > > > > that mirror finish?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > > > Visit my web site at:
> > > > > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > >
> > > > What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go?
> > Should
> > > > I spend
> > > > the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished,
> > but
> > > > is it
> > > > better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of
> > the
> > > > Horz.
> > > > Stab. that don't look real pretty.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > Visit my web site at:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Gary,
Laird Owens makes a fiberglass panel for the RV and his has the throttle
controls on the left side. By the way his panel is very nice alternative to
vans panel.
I got my first RV6 ride at Vans homecoming this last weekend in Laird's RV.
What an awsome bird I am building. Now I must get to work!
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finishing kit
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 12:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
>
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhallcos(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Gary,
I put the throttle, etc. on the left side.
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/rvoftheweek/2001/28_c.jpg I used some left
over 1/8" angle to make a sub panel for the throttle and flap switch
(outboard of the throttle). The throttle is positioned far enough inboard
to clear the fuselage bulkehead. I am happy with it and would do it again.
Another advantage is that it frees up more room to get under the panel.
It is your airplane. Make it the way you want it.
Bob Hall
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Laird,
Thank you again for the ride in your -6. I am still buzzing about it.
Awsome airplane!
RV-6 (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit, waiting for engine
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
>
> Gary,
>
> I felt the same way as you and came up with a left hand throttle for my
RV-6 because I'd been flying Citabras for awhile, and I like how it came
out.
>
> You can see a picture at the bottom of the page:
> http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/429050/guest.phtml
>
> BUT....When I went up to fly with Mike Seager for my transition training,
I got to fly with my left hand because of the center engine controls. I've
got to say that I DID notice a difference the first day, having to mentally
think about what hand was doing what.
>
> I went out to fly on the second day and it wasn't until the day was 1/2
over that I realized I was flying wiht the "wrong" hand.
>
> If I were to do it again, I'd put the controls in the middle so you can
share the flying with friends.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, 340 hrs
> O-360, Hartzell (installed after the pic was taken)
> SoCal
>
>
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
> can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
> installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Interiors & Upholstry |
I talked to the owner a little. The seats are done by Oregon Aero. Don't kow
about the rest.
Greg
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's Shortest Airport (RV related: He's building an -8 |
Thanks Charlie,
That was worth watching. Were those three tries the only ones or was there
lots of practice prior to the filming?
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit and waiting for lyc 0-360
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 3:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: World's Shortest Airport (RV related: He's building an -8
>
> My neighbor, RV-8 builder Andy McCain, will be on Ripley's
> Believe It or Not tonight on (I think) cable channel TBS at
> 7:00 PM central time landing a Piper Cub on the roof of a
> Pontiac. I knew they were good for something....
>
> Take a break & watch a good ole boy from Mississippi enjoy
> his 15 (probably 3) minutes of fame.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
If you have Van's alternator (or something similar) you can connect the Hobbs to
the extra white wire that comes out of the alternator plug that Van's tells you
to cut off. When the engine is running it will give you about 10 volts - plenty
to run the Hobbs. I had mine hooked up that way and it worked fine, then I needed
another instrument hole so the Hobbs became expendable. It's not very important
as long as you have a recording tach.
I log every flight and have for 33 years. Going back through those logs is like
a
photo album - some great memories!
Dave
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> dear listers
> i have a hobbs meter with 2 wires. do i hook them up to some sort of pressure
> switch via manifold with the oil pressure sensor? if so where can i get the
> oil pressure switch? how does it work, do i feed 14 volts to it?
> scott
> tampa
> wife leaving, soon back to work on the rv
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8a |
In a message dated 9/5/01 7:18:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, billc(at)dancris.com
writes:
<< Lorin,
I asked a bunch of people as well as vendors (and rebuilders) of oil coolers
at Osh this year and the overwhelming concensus is to stay away from
positech. I am building an RV8A and putting in a Bart Lalonde 0-360. I plan
to use a Swewart Warner unit. I live in Phoenix, AZ and need all the margin
I can get. Bear in mind that this is a compilation of many conversations and
note collecting. I have never used either one in an airplane. I have used a
Stewart Warner as a mod on a Porsche 911S with excellent results.
Bill Christie >>
On this subject. Positech has redesigned their coolers to offer better
airflow through the unit, and give better cooling. I was on the phone to
them yesterday. They offered to rework my 4211 cooler for <$75, and said it
would increase cooling capacity by 50%. My experience with a 4.5 x 3.25"
opening feeding the Positech 4211 (the "0-360 sized unit from Van) or the
0-320 sized Niagra is that my oil temps are higher than I like with both. At
75% cruise, I'll see 220 degrees, dropping to 205 F at 65% cruise. I'd rate
these two coolers as equivalent. These temps are true for any of my warm
weather (>80F) ops..
I have spoken with Pacific Oil Cooler, and the folks there have a strong
preference for the S/W cooler. I'm undecided about having the Positech
reworked or spending $400 on a S/W cooler. It may be that I can do a little
work and get more air through my current cooler. I'm looking forward to the
post where someone (Randy?) is doing a back to back comparison with the S/W
cooler.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV8a |
I've been flying an -8 with an O-360 and the larger Positech cooler for two
Florida summers now, and have not had any problems at all. I put it on the
baffle, though it's a really tight fit. The thing's build like a tank, so I
can't imagine what "problem" anyone is having with it, unless it's cooling
performance. That being said, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick a different
brand if I were doing it all over.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
80587, N174KT (Flying 75hrs, FINALLY painted, installing Ellison and
Inverted oil)
______________________
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Just a quick question concerning Laird's handsome panel:
Are the throttle and mixture controls prone to receiving
kicks/nudges/bumps/etc when a clumsy pilot is getting in and out of the
plane?
Inquiring minds connected to long legs and big feet are wondering.......
:-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> Gary, check out this shot of Laird Owen's panel:
> http://www.planes-wings-things.com/images/Owens_RV-6.jpg
>
> My panel is laid out a little different instrument-wise, but I've
> placed the throttle and mixture in roughly the same location. I will
> send a scanned picture of mine off line.
>
> The problem for a -6 if you are any size is that a quadrant eats into
> your cabin space.
>
> If you look closely you will see his flap switch and carb heat knob all
> within easy reach of the hand on the throttle. You will see my
> controls placed as easy-to-hand.
>
> I am not in the air yet, but have "flown" this setup quite a bit going
> through not only normal operations but emergency operations as well. I
> moved some things a little bit as a result of those sessions, but I
> think my configuration will work out fine, for me.
> And by the way we tried it from the right seat with an emergency
> landing by my wife in mind - she could reach across to operate the
> throttle ok.
>
> Another benefit of a left-side throttle in a -6(a) is with your right
> hand on the stick, your right arm and elbow are tucked in and the
> posture actually makes the cabin seem a bit more roomy for your
> passenger as opposed to the pilot's right hand on the center
> throttle...
>
> It bears thought...
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | U.S.A RV'er visiting NZ Sept 20 to Oct 11(DNA) |
Hi Kiwis,
My wife, Jo Anne, and myself are renting a campervan and doing some touring.
Will arrive and depart Auckland. Would appreciate a heads up on any RV
related activities happening in NZ during this time period.
Bernie Kerr, RV6A, N60WM, 200+ hours, SE Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward O'Connor" <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/02/01 |
Check out Van Doran site. He had a link to another builder with pictures
of an adjustable rudder trim. Can't remember the builders name who did the
pictures but he had a bunch of modifications. Von Doran's Web site is
listed in be builders group on VAn's web site. I have fabricated the parts
for my adjustable rudder and will be installing in about a month. There
are pictures of a Nav Aid instalation on the same site. I'm on road right
now and don't have my regular E-mail and web site index with mo or I could
tekk you more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Rough River or Lebannon Fly-In? |
Anyone flying an RV6/6A going to be at the Rough River,KY (Sept.14-16)
or Lebanon,TN (Sept. 22-23) Fly-in?
I am building a RV7A and would like to go up with someone, only been up
once (in an RV) and need a fix :-)
I'll be there in my Rans S12xl!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
I have the Tracy Saylor two lever quadrant in my RV-6. He also sells a 3
lever unit. I am very pleased with it. It mounts to the F-604 (the main
carry through bulkhead), and I found a vertical position for it that is "just
right" for me. If you want left throttle/right stick in an RV-6, it is a
good choice. My biggest difficulty was in routing the throttle and mixture
cables. This required the equivalent of four 90 degree bends in the cable,
each of which reduces availible throw.
If there is interest, I'll dig through my pile 'o pictures and see if I've
got something that I can put on my website.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV- Rivet Question |
Rick:
My RV is #1305. Don Disbrow, my old friend, started the kit back in 1984. It
is to the
fairings and electrical system now. I think mine will have you beat! Probably
not the
oldest new airplane ever as I believe there are quite a few earlier than 1305 that
have
yet to be completed.
Dave Aronson
RV4
N504RV
"Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Years ago I read about people keeping rivets in the
> refrig to keep them cool and "fresh". So I was a little concerned about my
> rivets.
>
> When I get (note that I didn't say if) my -4 flying, I'm betting it will be
> the oldest-new RV. I had the emp shipped in 86 and the wings in 87.
>
> I had a couple of distractions along the way.
>
> Rick
>
> > ----------
> > From: Bill Christie[SMTP:billc(at)dancris.com]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:53 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> >
> >
> > Rick,
> > I checked into this indirectly because some of my rivets drove easy and
> > others took more hits / higher pressure. I was told that they harden as
> > they
> > age, but as long as the shop head forms ok without cracking, to not worry
> > about it. My kit is about 2 years old, but I have no idea how old the
> > rivets
> > are.
> >
> > Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Murphy, Richard James (Rick) <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:47 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble. Kinda
> > dumb
> > > question...
> > >
> > > I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the original
> > emp
> > > and wing kits.
> > >
> > > Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a
> > shelf
> > > life and age beyond when they are useable?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > Rick Murphy
> > > empanage - HS
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> > > > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> > > > To: Server
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Paul Besing wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > > > > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > > > > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > > > > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > > > > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > > > > how I know)
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > > > > mushroom set is now
> > > > > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > > > > to polish it back to
> > > > > > that mirror finish?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > > > Visit my web site at:
> > > > > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > >
> > > > What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go?
> > Should
> > > > I spend
> > > > the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be polished,
> > but
> > > > is it
> > > > better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom of
> > the
> > > > Horz.
> > > > Stab. that don't look real pretty.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler (was RV8a) |
Innocent/ignorant question:
Van's shows $245 for the SW. What else is needed that raises the price to
$400?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
[snip]
> I have spoken with Pacific Oil Cooler, and the folks there have a strong
> preference for the S/W cooler. I'm undecided about having the Positech
> reworked or spending $400 on a S/W cooler. It may be that I can
> do a little
> work and get more air through my current cooler. I'm looking
> forward to the
> post where someone (Randy?) is doing a back to back comparison
> with the S/W
> cooler.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler (was RV8a) |
In a message dated 9/5/01 11:48:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< Innocent/ignorant question:
Van's shows $245 for the SW. What else is needed that raises the price to
$400?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com >>
Van doesn't sell S/W... They sell "S/W type" coolers. These "S/W type"
coolers say Niagra on the side...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler (was RV8a) |
> Innocent/ignorant question:
> Van's shows $245 for the SW. What else is needed that raises the price to
> $400?
Van's is selling a "Stewart Warner type", but it is actually a Niagara
cooler. The REAL Stewart Warners are supposed to be better. I just ordered
one and should install it friday evening for a Saturday flight. I'll report
any difference I note to the list.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | iPaq users question |
I am pondering my options for tunes. I followed the recent thread
concerning the different formats and have decided on a MP3 player. The two
options are the hard drive MP3 players like the Creative Labs Nomad or the
Archos Jukebox or a pocket PC like the iPaq H3650. The pocket pc options
allows other things such as the use of the Anywhere map software so seems
like the superior option.
My question is if the iPaq is running the Anywhere map can it also play
MP3's without choking and is it easy to switch between software applications
with both running?
Another question, it seems like panel jacks for GPS and audio panel
interface as well as external power would be a clean installation rather
than having loose wires running from the back of the panel to the iPac. Is
this easy to do or are the cables weird enough to make it a difficult setup?
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
I use a RIO Volt to play my MP3's off a cd. Burning them onto the CD is
simple and it holds a LOT of them. Haven't used it in a plane yet, but
snowboarding, or mountain biking it never skips a beat.
Bill
-4 wings (master bath actually)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 1:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: iPaq users question
>
> I am pondering my options for tunes. I followed the recent thread
> concerning the different formats and have decided on a MP3 player. The
two
> options are the hard drive MP3 players like the Creative Labs Nomad or the
> Archos Jukebox or a pocket PC like the iPaq H3650. The pocket pc options
> allows other things such as the use of the Anywhere map software so seems
> like the superior option.
>
> My question is if the iPaq is running the Anywhere map can it also play
> MP3's without choking and is it easy to switch between software
applications
> with both running?
>
> Another question, it seems like panel jacks for GPS and audio panel
> interface as well as external power would be a clean installation rather
> than having loose wires running from the back of the panel to the iPac.
Is
> this easy to do or are the cables weird enough to make it a difficult
setup?
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
> Another question, it seems like panel jacks for GPS and audio panel
> interface as well as external power would be a clean installation rather
> than having loose wires running from the back of the panel to the iPac.
Is
> this easy to do or are the cables weird enough to make it a difficult
setup?
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
Ross,
It would seem tobe difficult with the plug-in receiver being located on the
bottom . I mounted my ipaq on the left side of my panel on the pedestal and
yes there is a short GPS connector wire dangling from under the dash, but it
never seems to bother me because I am always admiring that bright neat
moving map system rather than looking at dangling wires :>)
> Another question, it seems like panel jacks for GPS and audio panel
> interface as well as external power would be a clean installation rather
> than having loose wires running from the back of the panel to the iPac.
Is
> this easy to do or are the cables weird enough to make it a difficult
setup?
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> |
I bought the Cleveland RV set and it has about everything you need. I'm
still have ordered a few things like a rivet fence.
Allen Checca
6A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tools
Lets see if I can screw this up
> Mushroom Set - I wouldn't recommend it. It goes in the rivet gun to rivet
flush rivets. You're better off with the swivel set and the rubber guard.
Maybe some people can use the mushroom set (and maybe I can now also) but I
tended to screw up the skins when I tried it as a novice. The swivel set
can't be beat.
> Cupped Set - for use in the C-Frame tool and squeezer. Used to set
universal head rivets. You're probably not building your own wing spars so
you should just need on size for the 1/8" 470 4-** rivets.
> Double Offset Cupped Set - I think this is a shaft for the 1/8" rivets
that's used in the gun. It's helpful for getting around rib flanges. I've
used mine several times especially in the early stages.
> Flat Set - Used in the squeezer for setting flush rivets. 1/2 of the flat
set is also used when using the cupped set.
> Dead Blow Hammer - Used when dimpling skins and stuff on the C-Frame tool.
It's usually a hammer with some shot in the head so it doesn't bounce around
when you hit something. I bought a cheap plastic hammer and it works ok.
If I was doing it over again, I'd probably buy a rawhide mallet or something
a little better.
You can see some of what I have in the way of tools here:
http://bmnellis.com/tools.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Need some one who can translate the Vans "REQUIRED TOOLS LIST" to what the
> catalogs show them as. In particular, what are the following referring to?
>
>
> I have already let my imagionation run rampid on the list, and how each
item
> related to girls I have dated, but I don't think that will get the
fuselage
> built...
>
> do not archieve
>
> Darryl
> RV3 in many pieces
> MO34
> (Missouri)
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Sent using Fidelity Networks, Inc. Mailman.
> http://www.fidnet.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All:
I stopped at the Positech booth at OSH this year and asked about the cooler
problem. They showed me the updated cooler for any folks having temp problems
-- it looked exactly like the SW unit next to it (slightly looser fins when
compared to the V1 style). They also related that they would rework any 'old'
style for the 'newer' style if users were having problems. Sounds fair to
me...
That being said, I can get the coolers for you, and I can specify the 'new
style fin spacing' if any of you want to use the Positech brand. As for
pricing, the 19 row cooler sells for $208 -- I would expect most O-360s would
use the 11 row, with cooler climate ops calling for a 9 row unit. I'll check
pricing on these, and post it later.
Cheers
Mark
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All:
I sell a static cling shade film -- it's been on my ship for almost 4 years
now. You can order thru our website: teamrocketaircraft.com.
Cheers
Mark
From: ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Window Films for Canopee
> The film releases fumes over time and will not keep it's
> adhesion properties and you will have thousands of bubbles.
> Not to mention, you will ruin your canopy trying to take it off.
> The problem is that 3M and other films are not compatible
> with acrylic or plexi. It's not a question
> of if it will bubble, the question is when.
Thanks, Paul.
Apparently, there was a product called aerogold (web page is at
http://www.flightenvironments.com/html/prodinfo4.htm) that was claimed
to work. However, the company no longer sells it. Does anyone have
experience with that one? Or anything non-3M (but permanent!) that works?
/iaw
--
Ivo Welch,
http://welch.som.yale.edu/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
Use you PC to measure your engine RPM.
http:// www.tunelab-world.com/rpmsound.html for Cassio Cassiopeia or the
Compac iPAQ
http://www.wwnet.net/~rscott/rpmsound.html for Windoze
I tripped over this on rec.aviation.homebuilt. Sounds useful.
Doug Gray
RV6 wings (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Info. |
After reading all the latest posts on oil coolers. I felt I should add a few
bits of information I've acquired from different sources.
1) As far as the cooling core design, coolant area vs. airflow area.
Stewart Warner and Niagara are identical since neither one did the original
design or development. That was all done by Harrison Radiator Division of
General Motors. Back in the old days there were only Harrison Coolers. When
GM decided to discontinue to produce Aircraft coolers Stewart Warner and
Niagara started producing the Harrison Coolers and I've even seen a cross
over chart showing identical coolers with Harrison, Niagara, and Stewart
Warner Part numbers.
Stewart Warner has added some tank flow variations to the same basic
core. The 8432 is a double pass whereas the other Stewart Warner of that
same size is a single pass and exactly the same cooling capacity as the same
size Niagara.
Randys test of removing a Niagara and replacing it with a Stewart Warner
will be useful information if the Stewart Warner he uses is of the same core
area and is the double pass variety. This will tell us the value of 2 pass
vs. single pass.
Summary; In single pass versions Niagara = Stewart Warner, Buy whichever
is less $. If Randy's test proves the double pass is superior, Then the
Stewart Warner Double pass will be Top Dog.
2) Positech - I had one of those it was well made but had the wrong
relationship between airflow area and coolant area. (Too much coolant area,
not enough airflow area for the pressure drops we can generate up to 200
MPH. It might be the Ideal cooler if we had 500 MPH to work with. I
understand Positech has realized this and is now coming out with core design
more like the other three. Look forward to seeing one and hearing about
performance.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922RV, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL Having a
Blast working on Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
Paul I am not at the flying stage yet but will put a hobbs meter in and do the
logs
also. My insurance co. wants my hours in type and other stuff each year at
renewal so I log everything.
Earl
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> What are most flying RV's out there doing? Do you have a hobbs meter, or
> are you simply recording total time in your aircraft log book?
>
> On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every flight
> in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to determine
> how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish it
> was, that's the way I understood it!)
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV- Rivet Question |
Dave.
Congrats on your progrees. Someday I hope you can look over an see me on
your wing.
Rick
> ----------
> From: David Aronson[SMTP:aronsond(at)pacbell.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:29 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
>
>
> Rick:
> My RV is #1305. Don Disbrow, my old friend, started the kit back in 1984.
> It is to the
> fairings and electrical system now. I think mine will have you beat!
> Probably not the
> oldest new airplane ever as I believe there are quite a few earlier than
> 1305 that have
> yet to be completed.
> Dave Aronson
> RV4
> N504RV
>
> "Murphy, Richard James (Rick)" wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > Thanks for the feedback. Years ago I read about people keeping rivets in
> the
> > refrig to keep them cool and "fresh". So I was a little concerned about
> my
> > rivets.
> >
> > When I get (note that I didn't say if) my -4 flying, I'm betting it will
> be
> > the oldest-new RV. I had the emp shipped in 86 and the wings in 87.
> >
> > I had a couple of distractions along the way.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From: Bill Christie[SMTP:billc(at)dancris.com]
> > > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:53 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> > >
> > >
> > > Rick,
> > > I checked into this indirectly because some of my rivets drove easy
> and
> > > others took more hits / higher pressure. I was told that they harden
> as
> > > they
> > > age, but as long as the shop head forms ok without cracking, to not
> worry
> > > about it. My kit is about 2 years old, but I have no idea how old the
> > > rivets
> > > are.
> > >
> > > Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Murphy, Richard James (Rick) <rjmurphy1(at)lucent.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:47 AM
> > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV- Rivet Question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have an "older" RV4 kit from Van that I'm starting to assemble.
> Kinda
> > > dumb
> > > > question...
> > > >
> > > > I have the original rivets that were sent years ago with the
> original
> > > emp
> > > > and wing kits.
> > > >
> > > > Is there any reason that I can't use those rivets? Do rivets have a
> > > shelf
> > > > life and age beyond when they are useable?
> > > >
> > > > thanks
> > > >
> > > > Rick Murphy
> > > > empanage - HS
> > > > > ----------
> > > > > From: Bobby Hester[SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> > > > > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:23 PM
> > > > > To: Server
> > > > > Subject: RV-List: Flush Swivel Set - Mushroom Set?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul Besing wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey Bobby, one thing you might want to think about for
> > > > > > the rest of your plane is a swivel flat set with the
> > > > > > rubber guard that Avery sells. That mushroom set will
> > > > > > slip one time and you will never use it again. The
> > > > > > swivel set from Avery is worth every penny. (Ask me
> > > > > > how I know)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Paul
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've finished my Horz. Stab. and I noticed that my
> > > > > > > mushroom set is now
> > > > > > > marred a little on the surface. What is a good way
> > > > > > > to polish it back to
> > > > > > > that mirror finish?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > > > > Visit my web site at:
> > > > > > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > > >
> > > > > What about it guys? Is the flush swivel rivet set the way to go?
> > > Should
> > > > > I spend
> > > > > the extra money for this? I know it will still need to be
> polished,
> > > but
> > > > > is it
> > > > > better than the mushroom set? I did make two dings on the bottom
> of
> > > the
> > > > > Horz.
> > > > > Stab. that don't look real pretty.
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > > > Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > > > Starting RV7A empannage :-)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 throttle quadrant |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com>
Sent: 06 September 2001 15:40
Subject: RE: RV-6 throttle quadrant
> Hi,
>
> I have not posted to this list in a while, but I just thought I would add
> another perspective to the throttle quadrant question. You could always
set
> up the instrument panel to fly from the right hand seat. This way you keep
> your right hand on the stick most of the time and throttle, switches,
radio,
> GPS etc are operated with the left hand.
>
> The Royal Air Force Grob trainers are set up this way. The student flies
> from the right seat and the instructor from the left.
>
> http://www.f4aviation.co.uk/Hangar/tutor/tutorcockpit.htm
>
>
> Piers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone pick up any information about the RV10 at homecomming? Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Tim:
I bought a Sears Craftsman Variable speed Band saw that works great on
everything. Cost was ony 179.00
Al Grajek
RV8 Tail
>From: efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 08:52:48 -0400
>
>
>There are companies that will make a blade any size and for different type
>metals.
>Look in the yellow pages. If you can't find one check with a machine shop
>or
>metal fabricating co. to see where they get their blades. I have been using
>a
>craftsman 10 inch band saw with a metal blade and it works fine. The only
>problem I have encountered is aluminum dust building up on the rubber band
>around the drive wheel which will kick the blade off after a lot of use if
>not
>cleaned.
>Earl RV4
>
>Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the
>speed
> > is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> > availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I am
> > nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my
>fuselage
> > and working on the finish kit.
> >
> > Thanks again
> > Tim Bryan
> > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for
>years.
> > > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut
>starts
> > > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem. I
>am
> > > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> > multiple,
> > > so far.
> > >
> > > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a
>cut
> > off
> > > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It just
> > > failed
> > > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable bandsaws
> > that
> > > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper speed
>and
> > > > best kind of blades?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > > Tim Bryan
> > > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Info. |
> After reading all the latest posts on oil coolers. I felt I should add a
few
> bits of information I've acquired from different sources.
> 1) As far as the cooling core design, coolant area vs. airflow area.
> Stewart Warner and Niagara are identical since neither one did the
original
> design or development. That was all done by Harrison Radiator Division of
> General Motors. Back in the old days there were only Harrison Coolers.
When
> GM decided to discontinue to produce Aircraft coolers Stewart Warner and
> Niagara started producing the Harrison Coolers and I've even seen a cross
> over chart showing identical coolers with Harrison, Niagara, and Stewart
> Warner Part numbers.
Good history, thanks.
> Stewart Warner has added some tank flow variations to the same basic
> core. The 8432 is a double pass whereas the other Stewart Warner of that
> same size is a single pass and exactly the same cooling capacity as the
same
> size Niagara.
> Randys test of removing a Niagara and replacing it with a Stewart
Warner
> will be useful information if the Stewart Warner he uses is of the same
core
> area and is the double pass variety. This will tell us the value of 2 pass
> vs. single pass.
Pacific Oil Cooler Service tells me that in the size I have the SW will not
be a dual pass. Further, and more importantly, they say that Niagara
Stewart Warner is *not true*, that SW has evolved and improved the design
and that in the exact same form factor (size/shape) the SW will cool better
by approximately 20%. I would be happy with a 15 degree reduction at the top
end so this should do it. I am scheduled to install it tomorrow night and
fly on Saturday. I will do my best to note ambient temps and make the most
objective comparison notes I can, but no two days are ever the same. The
good news is that I've flown the plane 120 hours in four months and am
fairly sensitized to its operating characteristics and temps under various
conditions.
> Summary; In single pass versions Niagara = Stewart Warner, Buy
whichever
> is less $. If Randy's test proves the double pass is superior, Then the
> Stewart Warner Double pass will be Top Dog.
> Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922RV, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL Having a
> Blast working on Finishing Kit
Stay tuned,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Van talked about it at the banquet. It will be a completely new design (no
parts used from existing models) based on the same concept of clean
efficient airframe at a reasonable price. It will have doors (don't know if
they will be gull-wing or not) and will not be aerobatic rated. No time
frame was stated.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A (TANKS)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of TColeE(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV10
Anyone pick up any information about the RV10 at homecomming? Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Gary, this is the way I have mine set up, give me an address and I will send
you a picture.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 12:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 throttle quadrant
>
> Any of you -6 drivers have or considering a left mount throttle quadrant
> for your planes? This has some obvious shortcomings (only the left seat
can
> fly) but I sure like the idea of throttle/mixture in the left hand and
> stick control with the right hand. I thinks Van's sells a model for the -6
> but not sure. Appreciate any feedback, especially those that have
installed
> it.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
George, my original 0360 was removed from another aircraft and included the
engine baffles. the wrap arounds were connected with 1/8 rod threaded at
both ends and bent in a shape to clear the oil drain -back tubes. This lets
you adjust from either end using a 1/8 steel locking nut and washer. I have
since transferred them to my current engine and plan to make up a set for my
6A. Could send you a picture next time I have the cowlings off.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Baffles
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips about connecting
> together the forward and aft Cylinder Cooling Fin Wraps on the engine
> baffles.
>
> On my 0-320 engine the suggested method of lockwire inside plastic brake
> line would rub against the oil return lines from the cylinders, doesn't
seem
> like a good idea to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> George McNutt, 6A
> Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: To Hobbs or not to Hobbs? |
> > On the subject of logbooks, what is the consensus on recording every
flight
> > in a logbook? Is this being done, or just look at the hobbs to
determine
> > how much time you have? My RMI uMonitor has a flight timer, but it only
> > goes to 25 hours. It is not intended for a hobbs meter (however I wish
it
> > was, that's the way I understood it!)
> >
> > Thanks..
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
Not sure about anyone else, but I record every flight in my pilot's log
book, then log all engine and airframe changes/maintenance in the engine and
airframe logs. These logs are for different purposes and if you didn't log
every flight how would you keep an accurate personal log to know all of your
times and currencies?
I stay organized by using a simple flight log form in the cockpit that I
complete after each flight. Every couple of weeks this gets taken home and
entered into my pilot's log (and also the computer verison of my pilot's
log). I also use the cockpit log to track oil consumption, but all
maintenance/repairs/changes go directly into the airframe and engine logs.
I'd be happy to e-mail my cockpit log to anyone interested or post it to my
web site... it's a table in a Word '97 document.
I'm sure others out there have different systems, this is just what I use.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 throttle quadrant |
Hi Sam,
Your right that the controls can be in the way when your getting in, but like anything
else, you get used to getting in a certain way. The only time it's really
an issue is when the manual aileron trim is way off to the left and the stick
is laying over to the side. Then it's a simple thing to move the stick out
of the way and slide down. Other than that it's really not an issue.
I've been getting in and out for 330 hrs now, and it's not a problem, just something
you get used to.
The panel is 1.25" lower than the stock panel, so someone with really long legs
may bump their knees some. (I have had someone 6'8"/sz 13 boots in the airplane
as a passenger and his only complaint was a lack head room...and my landing).
Regards,
Laird
Just a quick question concerning Laird's handsome panel:
Are the throttle and mixture controls prone to receiving
kicks/nudges/bumps/etc when a clumsy pilot is getting in and out of the
plane?
Inquiring minds connected to long legs and big feet are wondering.......
:-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
They must be building it in a paint booth!!
Sam Buchanan
=========================
"Reeves, Doug" wrote:
>
>
> Terry, I think Matt took a picture of it under construction when he
> attended Homecoming!
>
>
> Doug R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | S/W oil cooler for 200$ |
I got a used S/W oilcooler from a salvage yard for 50$ and had Pacific
Oil Coolers overhaul the unit, issue a yellow tag, test & certify it
for 140$.. Good deal in my book...http://oilcoolers.com/ and
1-800-866-7335
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Good Technical data for oil coolers |
http://oilcoolers.com/ URL is for Pacific Oil Coolers;; they have a
technical file section on cooler performance. Pretty interesting
technical data..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler (was RV8a) |
OK. What's the difference between the two types?
-Larry
--- KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/5/01 11:48:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
>
> << Innocent/ignorant question:
>
> Van's shows $245 for the SW. What else is needed that raises the price to
> $400?
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com >>
>
> Van doesn't sell S/W... They sell "S/W type" coolers. These "S/W type"
> coolers say Niagra on the side...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/6/01 10:37:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com writes:
<< http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/800-p9020194.jpg >>
Thanks Doug. your a real help inspiration. Cute.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
I FOUND IT! My best guess is this is Van disguised in a bad wig to
throw us off!
http://www.flycorvair.com/notbill.jpg
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TColeE(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV10
In a message dated 9/6/01 10:37:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com writes:
<< http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/800-p9020194.jpg
>> Thanks Doug. your a real help inspiration. Cute.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Dude, you have way too much time on your hands! Besides, I know that's you
in the picture, nice overalls by the way. Are you sure you followed the
plans EXACTLY while building that RV-8?
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 11:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV10
I FOUND IT! My best guess is this is Van disguised in a bad wig to
throw us off!
http://www.flycorvair.com/notbill.jpg
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TColeE(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV10
In a message dated 9/6/01 10:37:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com writes:
<< http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/800-p9020194.jpg
>> Thanks Doug. your a real help inspiration. Cute.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
I agree with the other guys on this subject. I've got some rivets that
were purchased in the 70's (geez, has it been that long?) from a "Banko"
sale where we bought them by the pound. Over the years we've used them
on everything from row boats to race cars and always gotten good
results. These are all standard MS/AN rivets from 1/8" to 3/8" dia. in
varied lengths. There weren't any 2017's but, thats a whole n'other
story on them things.
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have an RV6A O-360 Sterba wood prop. It is very smooth running. I
would like to go to a metal fixed pitch but have found most O-360 metal
props on production planes to have significant vibration compared to
mine. As much as I would like to change I don't want to if I have to
accept the vibration. I would appreciate your thoughts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
This list is great, thanks Matt.
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about securing the baffle
"wrap arounds" under the cylinders and the interferance with the cylinder
oil return lines.
For reference by others in the future here is a summary of the two
recommended methods.
1) Use .040 locking wire as per Vans plans, thread the locking wire through
one-quarter inch aluminum tubing and bend the tubing as required to clear
the oil lines. Tubing will retain it's bent shape in service. A pop rivet
with the mandrel removed can be used where the lockwire threads through the
baffle wrap to prevent wear. I would put a dab of pro-seal between the oil
line and the aluminum tubing to prevent the aluminum tube from rotating and
possible contact with oil line.
2) Use a one-eight steel welding rod bent to shape to clear the oil return
lines.
Cut 4-40 threads on each end and retain with nuts. Some use a compression
spring under nut on one end while others do not. The welding rods will
retain their bent shape in service and the clamping action of nuts will
prevent rotation contact with the oil line.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/props.htm
Rob Acker (RV-6Q)
I have an RV6A O-360 Sterba wood prop. It is very smooth running. I
would like to go to a metal fixed pitch but have found most O-360 metal
props on production planes to have significant vibration compared to
mine. As much as I would like to change I don't want to if I have to
accept the vibration. I would appreciate your thoughts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi John,
I haven't had a wood prop on my RV-6/0-360-A1A. I did have a Sensenich 72FM on
it for 200hrs. I didn't find the vibration unacceptable.
I later converted to a Hartzell for a couple of personal reasons (not the least
of which was that my father/partner offered to pay 1/2 ;-) The Hartzell has
more vibration the the Sensenich, so I need to balance it.
So....if you want to upgrade......(enter shameless plug here).....I just happen
to have an 83" pitch and matching spinner for sale......let's say $1650 plus
shipping.....
Laird
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Sep 6, 2001 2:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich prop
I have an RV6A O-360 Sterba wood prop. It is very smooth running. I
would like to go to a metal fixed pitch but have found most O-360 metal
props on production planes to have significant vibration compared to
mine. As much as I would like to change I don't want to if I have to
accept the vibration. I would appreciate your thoughts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
At the dinner, Van said it will be low wing, 4 seats, non-aerobatic, and
they have the tail built so far. No definite completion date. There may be
more, but thats what I heard.
Bill Christie, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: <TColeE(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 7:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV10
>
> Anyone pick up any information about the RV10 at homecomming? Terry E.
Cole
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Wood props and harmonic balancers... |
Hi all...
I have an O320 150hp and an Ed Sterba prop... Nay reason I would want a
harmonic balancer? I know where I can get one, but don't know if I
want/need it...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few days.
I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
driveway????
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tampa fly in |
dear listers
just got word that our eaa chapter will be giving rides at Peter O Knight
this saturday morning. they will be flying homebuilt aircraft which include,
2 europas, 2 zodiacs, but no RVs. our club has 6 under construction but none
flying yet.
anyone in the Tampa Florida vicinity that would be willing to fly in and show
off there plane? you don't have to give rides unless you want to, just answer
some questions, and show it off.
come on Rick, Olllie, and maybe Dr. Boyd, or anyone within flying distance.
we need a RV representative
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood props and harmonic balancers... |
I added a Landoll Harmonic Balancer that a lister sold me to my 160HP
Lycoming O-320 on my RV6A. What I notice most is that the engine idles
nicer and at a much slower RPM than before with my wood prop. As to
vibration, it's hard to say; the wood prop eased vibratory forces enough
that it was pretty smooth to begin with. Overall I like the thing for the
improved idle characteristics alone.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wood props and harmonic balancers... |
How difficult are these things to install? How much do they cost? Might
want to add one to my RV-4 just for weight and balance if nothing else.
-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:fasching(at)amigo.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood props and harmonic balancers...
I added a Landoll Harmonic Balancer that a lister sold me to my 160HP
Lycoming O-320 on my RV6A. What I notice most is that the engine idles
nicer and at a much slower RPM than before with my wood prop. As to
vibration, it's hard to say; the wood prop eased vibratory forces enough
that it was pretty smooth to begin with. Overall I like the thing for the
improved idle characteristics alone.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler (was RV8a) |
In a message dated 9/6/01 1:38:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lcbowen(at)yahoo.com
writes:
<< OK. What's the difference between the two types?
-Larry
--- KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/5/01 11:48:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
>
> << Innocent/ignorant question:
>
> Van's shows $245 for the SW. What else is needed that raises the price to
> $400?
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com >>
>
> Van doesn't sell S/W... They sell "S/W type" coolers. These "S/W type"
> coolers say Niagra on the side...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 >>
I'm not sure, but as Randy Lervold posted earlier, the folks at Pacific Oil
Coolers indicate that there is enough of a difference to give the S/W coolers
noticably better cooling characteristics for a given size. If you want more
information, look up Pacific Oil Cooler Svc in the Yeller Pages and give 'em
a call. They are very helpful.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Positech Oil Cooler |
I'll confirm Russel's comments re: the Positech Cooler being a tight fit on
the rear baffle of an O-360 in an RV-8. It fits, but requires some thought
and design and/or cut and try for the installation.
I've not flown it yet, so can't comment on cooling efficacy, but I'm happy
with the way the installation finally worked out.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Last .001%
>From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV8a
>Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:14:09 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy"
>
>
>I've been flying an -8 with an O-360 and the larger Positech cooler for two
>Florida summers now, and have not had any problems at all. I put it on the
>baffle, though it's a really tight fit. The thing's build like a tank, so
>I
>can't imagine what "problem" anyone is having with it, unless it's cooling
>performance. That being said, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick a different
>brand if I were doing it all over.
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>80587, N174KT (Flying 75hrs, FINALLY painted, installing Ellison and
>Inverted oil)
>
>
>______________________
>the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
>weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
>trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
>Air Parts
>Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
>Thanks,
>Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood props and harmonic balancers... |
Easy to install, but you have to remove the prop. There is a bit if fishing
around to get the bolt heads in the right direction if your
starter/alternator comes close, but it was no big problem. There is a
reinforcing plate to be added if you do heavy aerobatics. Comes with the
unit.
Mark Landohl sells them for, I believe $375, but a kind matronics lister
sold me a used one for $200 - there's nothing to wear out, so if you can
find a used one grab it! And, yes, there is, as I recall, a 12-pound weight
addition, so you should recalculate w/b.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
Hi John,
I can't imagine that three or four guys can't handle those boxes. I can
pick up either end of my airplane alone. The box itself can't be more than
the airplane. I wouldn't think.
RV-6 (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit and waiting for my engine
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
>
> Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few
days.
>
> I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
> tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
> driveway????
>
> John McDonnell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 (Laird gossip) |
Heard the same gossip from another unnamed source in June. Also said there
would not be any early release of parts before complete flight testing. Said
this is the number one design project and tail dragging 9 would be worked on
a low priority basis.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cutting bandsaw |
Thanks Al and all who replied to this. I purchased a Sears variable speed
saw today. I am going out to set it up and cut some more aluminum.
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finishin kit plus all the finishing of
everything that got left undone along the way.
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
>
> Tim:
> I bought a Sears Craftsman Variable speed Band saw that works great on
> everything. Cost was ony 179.00
> Al Grajek
> RV8 Tail
>
>
> >From: efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> >Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 08:52:48 -0400
> >
> >
> >There are companies that will make a blade any size and for different
type
> >metals.
> >Look in the yellow pages. If you can't find one check with a machine shop
> >or
> >metal fabricating co. to see where they get their blades. I have been
using
> >a
> >craftsman 10 inch band saw with a metal blade and it works fine. The only
> >problem I have encountered is aluminum dust building up on the rubber
band
> >around the drive wheel which will kick the blade off after a lot of use
if
> >not
> >cleaned.
> >Earl RV4
> >
> >Tim Bryan wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Thanks all for the answers on this. It seems acording to Cy that the
> >speed
> > > is the same as wood so that solves half the problem. The other is the
> > > availability of metal blades for the saw. I will go find me one. I
am
> > > nearly disabled without a saw even though I am nearly done with my
> >fuselage
> > > and working on the finish kit.
> > >
> > > Thanks again
> > > Tim Bryan
> > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:50 AM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Tim,
> > > > I have used an old Sears 12" bandsaw with a metal cutting blade for
> >years.
> > > > It won't work on ferrous metals, but is great for aluminum and other
> > > > non-ferrous metals. You just need to change the blade when the cut
> >starts
> > > > getting slow. I have cut from .020" to .250" parts with no problem.
I
> >am
> > > > just finishing the fuselage, so I have cut quite a few parts, some
> > > multiple,
> > > > so far.
> > > >
> > > > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A, fuselage.
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Tim Bryan <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
> > > > To:
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:40 AM
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Aluminum cutting bandsaw
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > > What is everybody using to rough cut your aluminum parts? I had a
> >cut
> > > off
> > > > > band saw that was capable of using in the upright position. It
just
> > > > failed
> > > > > and I need to replace with something. Are there reasonable
bandsaws
> > > that
> > > > > run at the appropriate speed for aluminum? What is the proper
speed
> >and
> > > > > best kind of blades?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved) Finish kit still
> > > > > Tim Bryan
> > > > > tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood props and harmonic balancers... |
>Overall I like the thing for the improved idle characteristics alone.
Not to mention the added weight up front, where the -4, anyway, needs it.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
> I mounted my ipaq on the left side of my panel on the pedestal
Bernie,
Do you have a picture or good description of this pedestal setup?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
John, I just picked up my finish kit yesterday. I had it shipped to me for pick-up
at the local ABF freight terminal. When it arrived they called
me, I went down there with a tilt type trailer and they loaded it for me
with a forklift. Those BIG BOXES are a lot less trouble to unload from a
small trailer rather than manhandling out of a trailer truck. I think the freight
is slightly less $ that way too!
Tommy
6A Finishing kit
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 7:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few days.
I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
driveway????
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
John,
I have a web site that shows a bunch of photos of us unloading a 6A QB. It
will give you a good idea of what to expect. The boxes really are BIG!
http://www.jgsinger.com/rv
Good Luck!
John Singer
Denver, CO
6A - Just finished installing Empenage - waiting for Finish Kit.
N444JS
In a message dated 9/6/01 5:54:17 PM, JTAnon(at)aol.com writes:
Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few days.
I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
driveway????
John McDonnell >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
As I recall, the crate that housed my 6A QB was about 1,100 pounds. The 16'
long wood crate alone weighs quite a bit. I used a lot of the wood for making
work benches, shelves and things, but it still took me two months with my
circle saw to finally get all that I did not use stuffed in the dumpster. And
there are about a jillion staples in the wood. A freind of mine told me when
he got his Sonnex kit, he tied a rope around one end of the box and the other
end around a post in his garage. He then told the truck driver to take off.
He said it made a horrible loud noise, but nothing was damaged.
John Singer
Denver, CO
RV6A QB
Just finished installing Empenage - waiting for Finish Kit to arrive.
N444JS
http://www.jgsinger.com/rv
In a message dated 9/6/01 7:26:29 PM, timbryan(at)oregontrail.net writes:
Hi John,
I can't imagine that three or four guys can't handle those boxes. I can
pick up either end of my airplane alone. The box itself can't be more than
the airplane. I wouldn't think.
RV-6 (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit and waiting for my engine
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
>
> Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few
days.
>
> I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
> tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
> driveway????
>
> John McDonnell >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: color of rollover bar |
Seem to recall from a long time ago that chroming 4130 steel wasn't good for
it. I think it was to do with the upper and lower aileron interconnect
struts on the Pitt's Special. It looked great but apparently wasn't as
strong...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: color of rollover bar
>
> I recently saw an RV4 with a chrome plated roll bar that looked super. I
> plan to
> do that to my 4.
> Earl RV4
>
> "Kelly A. Scott" wrote:
>
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I am looking for input on the color of the canopy rollover bar. I have
> > seen primarily white/gray and black. Black would seem to have the
> > advantage of minimizing glare, whereas white/gray would seem less
> > obtrusive in your field of view. Anybody out there flown an -8 with
> > white/gray and one with black and have comments either way?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kelly
> > -8QB fuselage
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
He was kidding wasn't he? Guess you wouldn't have to worry about if you put
an offset in the VS or not! What a bonus.
>>> he tied a rope around one end of the box and the other
> end around a post in his garage. He then told the truck driver to take
off.
> He said it made a horrible loud noise, but nothing was damaged.<<<
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit still
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <JGSinger(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
>
> As I recall, the crate that housed my 6A QB was about 1,100 pounds. The
16'
> long wood crate alone weighs quite a bit. I used a lot of the wood for
making
> work benches, shelves and things, but it still took me two months with my
> circle saw to finally get all that I did not use stuffed in the dumpster.
And
> there are about a jillion staples in the wood. A freind of mine told me
when
> he got his Sonnex kit, he tied a rope around one end of the box and the
other
> end around a post in his garage. He then told the truck driver to take
off.
> He said it made a horrible loud noise, but nothing was damaged.
> John Singer
> Denver, CO
> RV6A QB
> Just finished installing Empenage - waiting for Finish Kit to arrive.
> N444JS
> http://www.jgsinger.com/rv
>
> In a message dated 9/6/01 7:26:29 PM, timbryan(at)oregontrail.net writes:
> Hi John,
> I can't imagine that three or four guys can't handle those boxes. I can
> pick up either end of my airplane alone. The box itself can't be more
than
> the airplane. I wouldn't think.
> RV-6 (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit and waiting for my engine
> Tim Bryan
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:51 PM
> Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
>
>
> >
> > Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few
> days.
> >
> > I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever
little
> > tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
> > driveway????
> >
> > John McDonnell >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: color of rollover bar |
It can cause embrittlement. seen it happen (failure) on Harley motorcycle
bolts that were chrome plated.
>Seem to recall from a long time ago that chroming 4130 steel wasn't >good
>for
>it. I think it was to do with the upper and lower aileron interconnect
>struts on the Pitt's Special. It looked great but apparently wasn't as
>strong...
Bryan Jones -8
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
John-
I just got word too for my RV-8. Since the crates
were going to be a big and heavy - crates were going
to be a big hastle - I decided to get it myself. If
you have the time - it works out economically too.
+No crating charge of $500.
+No cost of getting rid of the crate.
+Vans loads the truck individual subassemblies by hand
-(i.e. probably will take one or two to help move the
wings and fuse)
+Airfare to Portland from Boston was less than a
couple hundred on Southwest.
+One way rental truck+gas slightly less than the
shipping.
... and you get to see America.
-Dag
P.S. leaving in a couple of weeks - anyone interested
in a five day adventure?
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from
Oregon in a few
days.
I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody
have any clever
little
tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the
truck and into my
driveway????
John McDonnell
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | iPaq users question |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: iPaq users question
Thread-Index: AcE3R3YvMC8vUKMkEdWAOgAIxwleHwATc39w
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Ross,
I took a picture of Bernie's panel at Cougar Landing '01. You can't see
the pedestal, but you can get the general idea.
http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/CougarLanding2001/Image026.jpg
Best,
DGR
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: iPaq users question
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
> I mounted my ipaq on the left side of my panel on the pedestal
Bernie,
Do you have a picture or good description of this pedestal setup?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClearProp1(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 9/6/01 6:00:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, billc(at)dancris.com
writes:
<<
At the dinner, Van said it will be low wing, 4 seats, non-aerobatic, and
they have the tail built so far. No definite completion date. There may be
more, but thats what I heard.
>>
I also heard that it will house a -540.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Norman" <tnorman(at)ktc.com> |
Takes a van with a hydraulic lift and a flat dolly. Two guys pick up one
end, wife slides dolly under box at halfway point. Roll box on dolly onto
lift. Rotate sideways and lower to ground. Push box on dolly up drive. Pick
up one end remove dolly. No sweat.
Tom Norman
RV-6A, Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 6:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
>
> Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few
days.
>
> I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
> tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
> driveway????
>
> John McDonnell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Tapar" <muskrat(at)rovermail.com> |
Got the poop directly from Van's yesterday as I inquired about the anticipated
shipping date of my RV-8 QB.
Van's loads the boxes by lifting the BIG boxes from the side with a forklift. They
set one end in the truck and place a STRONG pallet under the other end. They
then move the forklift and position it to lift the pallet end and push it into
the truck. They suggest the reverse to unload.
Another method is to call for a flat bed wrecker to pull the box out of the truck
onto the wrecker. Then just back the wrecker into position, tilt the bed and
slide the BIG box off. Neat!!
Paul Tapar
Just got my tail kit yesterday.
N729MT - 172
N4ME - Reserved for my 8
SignUP for your FREE rovermail account at http://www.suttertel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
Heya John,
I got my -6A QB last spring (the day the -7 was announced, actually :-) and
although I was a bit concerned, it turned out to be incredibly easy. This
is how I did it :
When Van's called with the news, I asked them to ship it to the freight
terminal only and that I would pick it up from there. This saved almost
$600 in freight charges, if I recall. Total freight was about $1,100 from
Oregon to St.Paul/Minneapolis MN. After I got of the phone with them, I
went to Menards (like Home Depot) and bought a bunch of 2x4s, 12 castors,
and wood screws of varying lengths.
I cut two pieces of 2x4s the width of the fuselage crate and put four
castors on each. Then I got the long screws that would hold it to the
bottom of the crate started so I could attach them more quickly. Same thing
for the 2x4s for the wing box, except I only put two castors on each 2x4
(it's lighter).
When the big day came, I took a Budget 24' moving van w/lift gate to the
freight terminal, wrote a big check, and they loaded the boxes right onto
the truck with their forklift. Once home, we unloaded each box by pushing
it so that it hung off the back of the truck enough to attach one of the
dollies. We would then push the box just far enough so that it would tip
and rest with the front dolly resting on the ground. I could then install
the dolly on the end still inside the truck. We then pushed the box such
that the rear dolly was resting on the lift gate, then lowered the lift gate
to the ground and pushed the boxes into the garage. Less than twenty
minutes was needed to unload the boxes from the truck by myself and two
friends.
The side benefit also is that the boxes were easy to move around. In fact,
I still have the wings in the crate they came in since it rolls around so
easily, and they are well-protected. Since the box is only about a foot
wide, it easily fits up against the back wall of my shop.
Good luck!
Brad Benson
RV6AQ...
-----Original Message-----
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com [mailto:JTAnon(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: BIG BOXES!!
Got the news today that my RV7A QB will ship out from Oregon in a few days.
I'll search the archives tonight, but does anybody have any clever little
tricks for getting these REALLY BIG boxes off the truck and into my
driveway????
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
In a message dated 9/5/01 3:12:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, RVer273sb(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> Scott,
> Simple wiring for a hobbs....
> Pick up a pressure switch at Napa ect
> 5 to 10 psi range will work. Normally open
> is what you want. Get one with 1/8 inch
> pipe thread which will screw into alot of
> places in the Lyc case oil gallery.
> You can ground one side of this press
> switch and then run the other to the ground
> side of your hobbs. 12V power goes to the +
> side from a fuse or C/B
>
> Stewart N273SB RV4
>
>
>
You can also hook the Hobbs up to the Avionics Master, save the money on the
oil pressure switch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Won't the Hobbs then be measuring "Avionics ON" time then, not the usual intent
of engine run time? Also, it becomes yet another victim of a designed-in single
point failure (having all the avionics on one switch).
Having the Hobbs on a two-pole pressure switch gives you engine run time, as well
as a low oil pressure/hey dummy you left the master on light/buzzer.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
-----Original Message-----
>You can also hook the Hobbs up to the Avionics Master, save the money on the
>oil pressure switch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Sorry listers. Trying to locate Mark. Are you still on list? Please contact
me off list. algrajek(at)msn.com
Thanks. Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Al,
The last email I had on Mark is menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com
Jack Textor
DSM
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Al Grajek
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mark Navatril
Sorry listers. Trying to locate Mark. Are you still on list? Please contact
me off list. algrajek(at)msn.com
Thanks. Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
Thank you. I am still wondering about using the iPaq with the Anywhere
software and MP3 player at the same time. Is this an easy operation or are
there lots of push button steps?
Ross
> I took a picture of Bernie's panel at Cougar Landing '01. You can't see
> the pedestal, but you can get the general idea.
>
> http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/CougarLanding2001/Image026.jpg
>
> Best,
> DGR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | iPaq users question |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: iPaq users question
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Hey Ross,
I have about 120 megabytes of mp3 files on my Compact Flash expansion
pack card that's plugged into my iPaq. I'll try using my AWM software
while listening to music this weekend (at the same time) and will get
back to you. I doubt it will be a problem but I'll do the test.
Best,
DGR
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: iPaq users question
Thank you. I am still wondering about using the iPaq with the Anywhere
software and MP3 player at the same time. Is this an easy operation or
are
there lots of push button steps?
Ross
> I took a picture of Bernie's panel at Cougar Landing '01. You can't
see
> the pedestal, but you can get the general idea.
>
>
http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/CougarLanding2001/Image026.jpg
>
> Best,
> DGR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
In a message dated 9/7/01 9:10:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, racker(at)rmci.net
writes:
> Won't the Hobbs then be measuring "Avionics ON" time then, not the usual
> intent of engine run time? Also, it becomes yet another victim of a
> designed-in single point failure (having all the avionics on one switch).
>
> Having the Hobbs on a two-pole pressure switch gives you engine run time,
> as well as a low oil pressure/hey dummy you left the master on light/buzzer.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
>
>
Yes you will measure the avonics time but in real life you start the engine
flip on the avonics master. The time differance is so small its not really
that important. There are many ways this can be done, this is just one simple
way and it works ok for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
A couple weeks ago there was discussion about Van's list of engine options for
the RV-10. (a few people were concerned that only Lycomings were listed)
I never did see that list. Does anybody know where it was published or what the
acceptable O-540 and IO-540 models are?
Just because we can't be bucking rivets yet doesn't mean its too early to start
looking for and preparing an engine; before they become as scarce and expensive
as O-360s.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
Thanks, Doug.
Ross
> Hey Ross,
>
> I have about 120 megabytes of mp3 files on my Compact Flash expansion
> pack card that's plugged into my iPaq. I'll try using my AWM software
> while listening to music this weekend (at the same time) and will get
> back to you. I doubt it will be a problem but I'll do the test.
>
> Best,
> DGR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: color of rollover bar |
> I recently saw an RV4 with a chrome plated roll bar that looked super. I
plan to do that to my 4.
It will really look cool. And your back seat passengers will hate it. It's
not only that the bar itself will be reflecting right in their face, like a
big neon light, but the shine on the canopy from the bar can be very
annoying. It actually blocks the view out the canopy. I have a knee board I
fly with and just the reflection off the white of the check list onto the
canopy is annoying, not to mention the three small binder rings of CHROME
that were very shiny, indeed (and have since been painted black). And the
canopy mirrors that right back at you. I have a black sheet I put over the
knee board when going cross country to cut down on glare.
> > I am looking for input on the color of the canopy rollover bar. I have
seen primarily white/gray and black. Black would >> seem to have the
advantage of minimizing glare, whereas white/gray would seem less obtrusive
in your field of view.
Mine is black and reflects very little. Go sit in a -4 or -8 with the canopy
down, in the sun, especially with the sun coming from behind. See what you
think. Then think of sitting back there for three hours on your way to
Sedona, Arizona. Which is one of the places you should go when your airplane
is finished, by the way.
IMHO.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
540+ hours and very little glare.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 engines (engines) |
Below is a note that Scott McDaniels did that is in Doug Reeves RV10 file.
It does not call out the model numbers, but gives a range. There was a
previous discussion on diesels that the factory might work up. Look at the
back inside cover of the latest "Sport Aviation" and I think you have your
answer to that ?
Bernie Kerr
----------------------
The RV-10 is being worked on.
Imagine an RV-9A increased in size to allow for comfortable seating for
4 full sized adults, baggage for a weekend, and fuel capacity to give a
range similar to the current RV models. The tentatively planned engine
choices are from an IO-360 (200 HP) at the bottom end, to the O-540 (260HP)
at the top end. As has already been said it is a clean sheet of paper
design with very little in common to the current RV models. This is one
of the factors that will make this a major development project for us.
All of the other models have been an evolution from the previous ones,
but that just isn't possible with a change of this magnitude. As a result
no projected completion date is being made. We will be load testing
structural members as we go before we even fly a prototype. A few parts
have been made and a small amount of testing completed but it is only
the tip of the iceberg.
Likely questions are...
-Sliding canopy or doors? Not determined yet.
-Retract gear? Not likely
-Other engine options? Not likely, at least not initially.
-Easy to build kit with all prepunch components? For sure.
-Quick build kit? Most likely but can't say for certain.
-Reasonable cost? We have a hope to blow the wings off of all other 4 place
kits on the market.
I can't say much more than that (probably not much more than everyone
already knows) other than be patient. We are working on it as a major
effort but will be quite a while before a kit is available.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 4:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-10 engines
>
> A couple weeks ago there was discussion about Van's list of engine options
for
> the RV-10. (a few people were concerned that only Lycomings were listed)
>
> I never did see that list. Does anybody know where it was published or
what the
> acceptable O-540 and IO-540 models are?
>
> Just because we can't be bucking rivets yet doesn't mean its too early to
start
> looking for and preparing an engine; before they become as scarce and
expensive
> as O-360s.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I got my college son and 4 of his buds along with myself and driver. I can be
done this way, or should I say the old fashion way. Bob in Ark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
Imho, why even fool with a Hobbs meter at all?
I look at the panel-mounted clock in my RV-3 at the time I crank the engine.
Likewise, I note the time at shutdown and figure my time.
I got used to doing it this way when I went into the Navy (the U.S.
government didn't bother to put Hobbs meters in its jets.) Granted, it
takes a bit of getting used-to, but like other cockpit duties it will soon
become part of your habit pattern.
Also, it's one less gage to install and a little bit of weight saved.
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | speaking of Hobbs? |
Speaking of... What are people using for a buzzer? I was thinking of a
nice "ding, ding, ding" like what's in my Nissan...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of racker(at)rmci.net
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: speaking of Hobbs?
Won't the Hobbs then be measuring "Avionics ON" time then, not the usual
intent of engine run time? Also, it becomes yet another victim of a
designed-in single point failure (having all the avionics on one switch).
Having the Hobbs on a two-pole pressure switch gives you engine run time, as
well as a low oil pressure/hey dummy you left the master on light/buzzer.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
-----Original Message-----
>You can also hook the Hobbs up to the Avionics Master, save the money on
the
>oil pressure switch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of Hobbs? |
In a message dated 9/7/01 6:56:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Speaking of... What are people using for a buzzer? I was thinking of a
nice "ding, ding, ding" like what's in my Nissan...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/ >>
In my plane, the whine of the Turn and Bank indicator is my "Master On"
annunciator.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake valve, where ? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Logged in the inventory on the finish kit (rv9a) today. I can't believe
they (Cleveland) make their aluminum wheels a 1/2" thick. Very very
heavy.
I realize that they take a pounding every time you land, but so do 4
wheeler dirt bikes.
Seems like chucking them in a lathe , would shed 5 or ten pounds.
Are there light weight versions available? Anyone thought about cutting
these down a little?
Barry Pote Fuselage RV9a
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I was at the Pacific Oil Cooler booth at Osh--they showed me the Aero
Classic 7 and 9 row cooler and side by side to the Niagra (if I remember
correctly) it looked identical. The guy declared one of the original
designers is now manufacturing the Aero Classic. In fact he showed that
it is identical except for the connection of the oil line I believe. I'm
not up to speed on oil coolers so how does this one fit in to the
comparison?
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Autocad LT file of RV-8 panel |
Does anyone know where I can find an autocad lite file of an RV-8 instrument
panel?
Thanks,
Greg Puckett (80081 slooooow build)
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel weight |
I don't think so. Most of the weight is the steel brake disk AND the large
heavy taper roller bearings plus the through bolts. It all adds up. You
don't want to start removing material from the wheel as the air pressure in
the tire and tube is at least 30 PSI and there are a lot of square inches
that the wheel has to contain. Remove some of the metal and it just might
let go with an explosion.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: wheel weight
Logged in the inventory on the finish kit (rv9a) today. I can't believe
they (Cleveland) make their aluminum wheels a 1/2" thick. Very very
heavy.
I realize that they take a pounding every time you land, but so do 4
wheeler dirt bikes.
Seems like chucking them in a lathe , would shed 5 or ten pounds.
Are there light weight versions available? Anyone thought about cutting
these down a little?
Barry Pote Fuselage RV9a
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
September 03, 2001 - September 07, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lk