RV-Archive.digest.vol-lq
October 03, 2001 - October 11, 2001
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman, Jim
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Landing Lights made from Auto lights
>
>
> Listers, Since my post yesterday about using lights from an Acura Integra
I
> received a handful of questions off line, so I am putting this on the list
> for all to see.
>
> I'm not using HID lights.. Way too expensive at this time (many hundreds
and
> possibly a thousand dollars?). Thus, no transformers, less weight, and not
> expensive.
>
> I'm using the typical halogen ones from an Acura Integra. LOTS of cars
have
> these little lights now which aren't HID. Mine are exactly 2" in diameter,
> so I cut a hole in each wing leading edge about 4" from the end of the
metal
> part of the wing. Making a bracket was simple, just riveted some angles
> between the end rib of the wing (to stiffen it) and then others over to
the
> mounting plate of the light. Truly one of the easiest mods I've made to my
> plane. By tightening or loosening one of the mounting bolts, I can aim
them
> up and down.
>
> For the Plexiglas, I bought the plexi that van's sells for that HUGE
> Duckworth landing light. I cut the plexi in half....so I could use it for
> both wing lights. Its about 10 inches long, so cut in half it easily
covers
> both of the 2" holes I cut in each wing. Mounting this plexi from inside
> was straightforward with mounting plates and countersunk #6 screws as
> typical for these implementations.
>
> The ones I am using had 55 Watt bulbs in them, which I promptly changed
for
> 100 W by going to the local auto parts store. About $6 each. They do get
> hot, but its not any hotter than the halogen lights that everybody else
> uses... its the same thing... the difference is possibly in 3 ways: The
> wattage of the bulb you use, the amount of area that the heat is spread
out
> (smaller reflector, vs. large reflector and large piece of plastic), and
how
> close you mount it to the front of the wing/plexi. I considered mounting
> the light with its glass sticking through the wing about 1/2 inch with no
> plexi covering it (its round, but not the same shape as the leading edge
of
> the wing)... .. It looked cool, but I was afraid that I was disturbing
the
> air flow over the wing... too close to the wing tip, etc, etc. etc. I am
> using a relay for these.
>
> Since they are typical halogen, the current draw and the ability to flash
> (Wig Wag) would be no different than the other lights sold for Vans
> applications. Finally, I'm not flying yet so I don't know how it all
works,
> but how bad can it be? Besides, the two little round holes are dark.. you
> can't see the bulb inside the glass, so they look like machine guns!
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ripsteel(at)edge.net [mailto:ripsteel(at)edge.net]
> To: jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com
> Subject: Landing Lights
>
>
> Howdy Jim-
>
> I have been planning on the small (high intensity discharge?) lights as
> you have used but am not yet to the point of actually implementing
> this. I would be very interested in how they have worked out so far,
> such as special mounting considerations (susceptible to vibration?), do
> they generate a lot of heat, how much current draw, do they require
> components other than just the lamps and receptacles (transformers or
> special control circuits etc.) and just how much light do they produce.
> Also curious about whether they can be cycled on/off continuously for
> wig-wag type function. Where did you mount them (if you got any photos,
> would love to see 'em!)
>
> Thanks for your time and any information!
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts |
> Huh???? I just paid $300 for 5 point hookers with the hooker hardware.
> Isn't the Shroth hardware more expensive?
>
> Paul Besing
Is this Hooker hardware the same format as the belts Van sells or does the
buckle have a rotary latch? If so the rotary latch is a bunch more money for
a reason I can't figure out. Where did you get your Hooker belts? Do they
seem heavy?
Regards.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Landing Lights made from Auto lights |
In a message dated 10/3/2001 10:54:28 AM Central Daylight Time,
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> Listers,
> At AirVenture this year the Team Rocket boys had a similar set-up on their
> A/C. I did take a picture if anyone wants a copy send me an email so I can
> reply.
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8
> pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
I believe team rocket has the plans for the light set up in Jim Tufts rocket
and they are selling a kit for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: seat belts |
Auto belts don't have shoulder restraints, which we have promised to use
if you are an EAA member. But more importantly it's much safer with the
shoulder restraints..For about $60 you can buy a new automotive five
point seat belt. Seat belts do have a life span, they are not forever.
Tom Jones
> > >Some advice.....stay away from the salvage yards "don't go there"
> stay> away.> > >> > Why?>> > Tedd McHenry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts |
The Hooker harness are a work of art. They are a little heavier than Van's,
and the latch mechanism is military type latch harness. Also seen in race
cars.
I had the Van's seatbelts and sent them back. They look like automotive
seatbelts with latches like those on commercial airliners.
I'm sure they would work fine, but the hooker harness are much more solid,
and they are very cool looking. I'm glad I spent the $300 for them. BTW,
get them from Rocket. The 5 point is cheaper from Rocket than from Hooker
directly.
If they do offer the Shroth latch, that would be cool too. Either one is
easy to open. The Shroth just makes all the pieces fall away when you un
latch it. When you un latch the Hooker harness, you still have the shoulder
harness and crotch strap (if installed) threaded through eachother, but it
comes apart very easy. I'll try to get some close up pics of my belts when
I go to the airport tomorrow.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts
> Huh???? I just paid $300 for 5 point hookers with the hooker hardware.
> Isn't the Shroth hardware more expensive?
>
> Paul Besing
Is this Hooker hardware the same format as the belts Van sells or does the
buckle have a rotary latch? If so the rotary latch is a bunch more money for
a reason I can't figure out. Where did you get your Hooker belts? Do they
seem heavy?
Regards.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strong Double Sided Tape |
Norm
I use a double stick foam tape in my Engraving Business the company I buy
from is in Texas the address is below.
SpecTape
P.O.Box 890271
Dallas, TX 75389-0271
Phone (214) 956-0077
Fax (214) 956-0848
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts |
While the Hooker harnesses are a bit heavier than Van's they are
considerably more comfortable. That's because they have wide adjustable
pads over the belts. You can cinch down the seat belt really tight and it
doesn't cut into your gut. I choose the Hooker for safety, comfort and
looks, in that order.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A 105 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts
>
> The Hooker harness are a work of art. They are a little heavier than
Van's,
> and the latch mechanism is military type latch harness. Also seen in race
> cars.
>
> I had the Van's seatbelts and sent them back. They look like automotive
> seatbelts with latches like those on commercial airliners.
> I'm sure they would work fine, but the hooker harness are much more solid,
> and they are very cool looking. I'm glad I spent the $300 for them. BTW,
> get them from Rocket. The 5 point is cheaper from Rocket than from Hooker
> directly.
>
> If they do offer the Shroth latch, that would be cool too. Either one is
> easy to open. The Shroth just makes all the pieces fall away when you un
> latch it. When you un latch the Hooker harness, you still have the
shoulder
> harness and crotch strap (if installed) threaded through eachother, but it
> comes apart very easy. I'll try to get some close up pics of my belts
when
> I go to the airport tomorrow.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts
>
>
> > Huh???? I just paid $300 for 5 point hookers with the hooker hardware.
> > Isn't the Shroth hardware more expensive?
> >
> > Paul Besing
>
> Is this Hooker hardware the same format as the belts Van sells or does the
> buckle have a rotary latch? If so the rotary latch is a bunch more money
for
> a reason I can't figure out. Where did you get your Hooker belts? Do they
> seem heavy?
>
> Regards.
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Heat marks on inside of cowl |
I'm getting some brown marks on the inside of my cowl at the bottom of the
cheeks. I'm assuming this is from radiant heat comming off the exhaust that
is about 2" away from the cowl in that spot.
I am going to put some thin refective insulation on the fiberglass to shine
the heat back at the engine.
Is this a common problem with RV-4's and 3's with tight cowls?
Has anyone else had this kind of heat problem?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strong Double Sided Tape |
> Would you go for a glue on cover for the brake pedals with some nice
> engraving on it?
Yes, as long as they didn't weigh too much.
Bill B ~ lightweight tire-kicker and reformed burrito lunch man. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat marks on inside of cowl |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/03/2001 04:29:03 PM
I thought I had the same problem with my -4 (31hrs!). I found brown marks
on the same area you describe. The inside of my cowl is painted white so
everything shows up. I was, however, able to clean off the brown marks
with gas and a paper towel. The fact that the marks could be removed
convinced me that they were not burns, but rather blow-by at the gasket
between the exhaust pipe and the cylinder. You may find you have a similar
situation.
Good Luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Stuck outside Boston's Class B airpsace!
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Pat Perry" |
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| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/03/01 03:01 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
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| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Heat marks on inside of cowl
|
I'm getting some brown marks on the inside of my cowl at the bottom of the
cheeks. I'm assuming this is from radiant heat comming off the exhaust
that
is about 2" away from the cowl in that spot.
I am going to put some thin refective insulation on the fiberglass to shine
the heat back at the engine.
Is this a common problem with RV-4's and 3's with tight cowls?
Has anyone else had this kind of heat problem?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring through VS |
I'm about to rivet the skin onto my vertical stab, and I want to make damned
well sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot wiring-wise.
I opted for the lower rudder fairing with the "light provision". What kind
of wiring should I plan for that? Do I need to route it up through the root
rib of the VS and then through the VS' rear spar, or can I run it
under/around the VS somehow?
Thanks,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
Hi,
Hhave flying RV-6 owners found that they need to open up the exit on the
cowling to allow more cooling air through. I have heard that as a general
rule of thumb, the air exit should be about double the square area of the
inlets. Please share your experience.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Cooling |
True. However, depending on the temp. inside the cowl and how fast the
airflow blows thru, the air can expand up to 3X it's input volume. So,
there's some room for experimentation. With my cowl, and the IO-540, we
increased the exit area to a little over 2.5X the inlet area and I have
to block off about 50% of the oil cooler fins to get my oil temp up to
195 degrees F. I have never seen CHTs higher than 415 degrees F, even
during "prolonged" climbs--but at 3,000 fpm+, my climbs are not that
prolonged. I also have a sealed plenum instead of the standard "rubber"
baffles between the engine and the cowl.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6
A Flyin' Fool--"straight and level kills your soul"--T. Jefferson
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> Hhave flying RV-6 owners found that they need to open up the exit on the
> cowling to allow more cooling air through. I have heard that as a general
> rule of thumb, the air exit should be about double the square area of the
> inlets. Please share your experience.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | My RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
Folks,
As a follow-up to this bru-ha-ha, I called Sam this afternoon and chatted
with him on a number of issues.
My situation will be a little different from the Hartzell crowd as I am
using MT three blade which does not have limitations with an extension.
Samordered his MT with the extension. from MT
Sam's design is for a specific firewall to prop bulkhead distance which
would normally be acquired with the engine combination it is built for. I
did not get the impression that he would be 'retooling' for multiple
additional applications.
Now I gotta find an extension for my MT - Sam assures me there is one made
for MT's. I'll start with the MT folks as they were able to provide one for
him...
As I also am committed to my prop and that (kinda) forces me into the
O360-A1F6. I don't have the engine yet and was planning on having Bart's
Aerosport folks build one up for me - the only way to get the F6
counterweights required for the prop.
I do like the looks of the cowl and am going to try to get it to fit. I am
not planning on dissecting it as that much glass work is one of the reasons
I'm building an aluminum design in the first place.
I will be following the saga very closely.
I do wish that this information had been published prior to my order and
delivery of this cowl.
It is a pretty piece of glass though...
Ralph Capen
RV6A QB N822AR(rsvd) MT and Cowl...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring through VS |
In a message dated 10/3/01 5:35:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
<< I'm about to rivet the skin onto my vertical stab, and I want to make
damned
well sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot wiring-wise.
I opted for the lower rudder fairing with the "light provision". What kind
of wiring should I plan for that? Do I need to route it up through the root
rib of the VS and then through the VS' rear spar, or can I run it
under/around the VS somehow?
Thanks,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com >>
I routed the wires through the aft spar below where the VS ends, then through
the fiberglass fairing on the rudder. If you choose to do it that way, you
can drill the holes much later in project - when you are attaching the VS to
the fuselage. It is probably easiest to leave the fiberglass fairing off the
rudder until that time, so you can drill it to match the hole in your VS spar.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | AITI Mach III Air Data Computer |
To Randy Lervold
Hey, Randy. Now that I have been "freed" of my Rocky Mountain Micro
Encoder, I am looking to see what I should replace it with. Can you give us
a user report on the Mach III and uEncoder since you have used both
products?
Ross Mickey
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AITI Mach III Air Data Computer |
There's a next generation unit due out in November. Overall I like the unit
but do have a number of nits with the present unit. All supposedly are being
addressed in the nextgen unit. I will put a full review with photos on my
web site once I receive and install it. I don't know if they're going to
hold the $999 price or not. All is kind of moot until we see the new unit
because they won't even sell you an old one now knowing that the new one is
coming. There are also several local builders planning on installing these
units as well.
Randy
ps. sorry to hear about the heist... man, I sure hope that doesn't happen to
me. I'm thinking of getting a bigger lock!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: AITI Mach III Air Data Computer
>
> To Randy Lervold
>
> Hey, Randy. Now that I have been "freed" of my Rocky Mountain Micro
> Encoder, I am looking to see what I should replace it with. Can you give
us
> a user report on the Mach III and uEncoder since you have used both
> products?
>
> Ross Mickey
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Cooling |
we
> increased the exit area to a little over 2.5X the inlet area
Boyd and Listers,
How did you open up the exit area. Did you just cut out the bottom of the
cowl? I saw Ken Barto's RV6A at OSH and he had radically cut out the bottom
of the airscoop behind the nosegear.
I am still testing the "new improved" positech oil cooler, and it looks like
it will be some improvement. Preliminary results show that the new cooler
has dropped the oil temps around 10% so far over what they were before I put
on the new improved cooler.
The test results really aren't that scientific, but I tried to compare the
difference in ambient air and oil temps between the new cooler and the old
cooler. The new cooler has dropped my oil temps to the point I can live with
them, especially since the weather is getting cooler. However if they are
high again next summer, I am probably going to look at opening up the cowl
exit air. I would be interested in how you did it.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
RV-6A
N844WB
169 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Cooling |
In a message dated 10/3/01 10:52:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
whays(at)camalott.com writes:
<< I am still testing the "new improved" positech oil cooler, and it looks
like
it will be some improvement. Preliminary results show that the new cooler
has dropped the oil temps around 10% so far over what they were before I put
on the new improved cooler.
The test results really aren't that scientific, but I tried to compare the
difference in ambient air and oil temps between the new cooler and the old
cooler. The new cooler has dropped my oil temps to the point I can live with
them, especially since the weather is getting cooler. However if they are
high again next summer, I am probably going to look at opening up the cowl
exit air. I would be interested in how you did it.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
RV-6A
N844WB
169 hours. >>
Wes,
I'm interested in this subject, as I've got a Positech that I sidelined and
replaced with a Niagra (I didn't see any meaningful improvement following the
switch). My temps are still on the high side (205 - 210F) in any conditions
where the temperature on the ground is 85F or higher. Recently, flying in
70F (ground) temperatures, my oil temps have been 185-190 degrees. The bottom
line is that I probably see a 120F or so difference between my oil temps and
the temps at surface level. This is at 60-65% power. What temperature
difference (oil to air) were you seeing and what are you seeing now? Also,
what power setting do you normally use?
If it looks like the new/improved Positech will be an improvement for me,
I'll ship that sucker in for a re-core.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Cooling |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com>
>> we increased the exit area to a little over 2.5X the inlet area
>
> Boyd and Listers,
> How did you open up the exit area. Did you just cut out the bottom of the
> cowl?
We had Tracy Sayler at our seminar/flyin in August. He had done a few
things. One was to open up the exit area by cutting back the cowl. He also
cut his exhaust pipes back so they were a bit inside the cowl pointing down.
He also built fiberglass dams on the inside of the bottom cowl to direct the
airflow back to the exit. All of these things help the air get out easier.
I have also put a fairing over the piece of the nose gear fairing that is
inside the cowl. I have a 6A and Tracy has a 6 so he doesn't have to worry
about that. I have also installed a round lip at the bottom of the firewall
similar to what is stock on the 8 series.
Ross Mickey
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Homer" <r_homer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions |
Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, Snivel, Whine, I think those guys at Van's lied to me, my pre-punched
airplane kit came with parts that didn't just jump off the bench and
assemble themselves. What good is this pre-punched stuff if it ain't perfect?
Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, I actually had to think ahead and solve a problem.
Whine, Snivel, Snivel, The instructions are soooo confusing. I don't see how the
thousands of completed RV's were actually finished. They probably cheated somehow.
Mooaan, Bitch, Bitch, I don't know why Van's doesn't do more for me, after all
he's probably making a huge 15% profit margin.
Waaiill, Mooaan, why can't Van's have every little problem and detail worked out
ahead of time for me so I don't even have to look at the plans and think how
things fit together.
Whaaaaah, The instructions are like, toootally bogus dude. Why doesn't Van's supply
an interpreter with every kit, or better yet why doesn't he include a real
life mechanic in the box to do it all for me. I'll bet he used to. How else
could all the other earlier RV3's, -4's, -6's, -8's and -9's not to mention the
QB kits have been finished by ordinary people?
Whiiiiinnne, Snivel, I think Van's is fibbing when he says this is the easiest
kit they have produced to build to date. I'll bet all those real early builders
of -3's, -4's and -6's had it waaaay easier without all these virtually self-aligning
pre-punched holes, CAD produced drawings, and ambiguous confusing instructions.
They probably got something simple, like materials kits, manually
drafted inkings for plans, and NO bogus instructions to confuse them.
Dan, if something this trivial is all it takes to start you bitching on this project,
boy are you in for a REAL learning experience.
Have fun,
Romer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au> |
Hi
Im building an RV6 and trying to work out how not to have a center
console, I have manual elevator trim which i cant find a good place for
without the console also the fuel selector.if anyone has done it before
I would love to here some ideas.
also instead of having a fuel selector for left and right how about just
conecting the two tanks with a T fitting and having and ON/ OFF tap like
cessna has?
Dave Tennant
RV-6 Australia
daviation(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Discounted Schroth - Correction |
Paul,
The price of $250 (5-point) was per Seat - Thru Team Rocket.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alison and Neil" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions |
Romer,
If you ever need a job we have a customer service rep position for you.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "R Homer" <r_homer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions
>
> Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, Snivel, Whine, I think those guys at Van's lied to me,
my pre-punched airplane kit came with parts that didn't just jump off the
bench and assemble themselves. What good is this pre-punched stuff if it
ain't perfect?
>
> Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, I actually had to think ahead and solve a problem.
>
> Whine, Snivel, Snivel, The instructions are soooo confusing. I don't see
how the thousands of completed RV's were actually finished. They probably
cheated somehow.
>
> Mooaan, Bitch, Bitch, I don't know why Van's doesn't do more for me, after
all he's probably making a huge 15% profit margin.
>
> Waaiill, Mooaan, why can't Van's have every little problem and detail
worked out ahead of time for me so I don't even have to look at the plans
and think how things fit together.
>
> Whaaaaah, The instructions are like, toootally bogus dude. Why doesn't
Van's supply an interpreter with every kit, or better yet why doesn't he
include a real life mechanic in the box to do it all for me. I'll bet he
used to. How else could all the other earlier RV3's, -4's, -6's, -8's
and -9's not to mention the QB kits have been finished by ordinary people?
>
> Whiiiiinnne, Snivel, I think Van's is fibbing when he says this is the
easiest kit they have produced to build to date. I'll bet all those real
early builders of -3's, -4's and -6's had it waaaay easier without all these
virtually self-aligning pre-punched holes, CAD produced drawings, and
ambiguous confusing instructions. They probably got something simple, like
materials kits, manually drafted inkings for plans, and NO bogus
instructions to confuse them.
>
> Dan, if something this trivial is all it takes to start you bitching on
this project, boy are you in for a REAL learning experience.
>
> Have fun,
> Romer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector |
Dave -
you can't get away from selectable fuel left-right-off with a low wing
plane. This is because of the potential for a negative pressure between the
tanks and the fuel pumps. Once the first tank ran dry, assuming the fuel
pressure between the tank and the pumps was negative, the pump(s) might
continue trying to pump air from the empty tank and not restore fuel feed to
the engine.
Bryan Jones -8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector |
It seems to me that the greatest problem in removing the console is
the trim cable unless there is a way to shorten it. Electric trim
should be the answer to that. I don't know about the fuel selector.
I kept the trim cable and built a thin low flat housing around the
it. It's still a console but minimal in size. I think I can get the
electric flap switch on it as well as the fuel selector. I am
installing electric flaps as all the RV-6 owners I know, say you have
to be a 500 pound gorilla to operate the manual flaps smoothly.
George
ghfrost(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for new job |
You should have no problem getting authorization to fly post maintenance test
flights providing you prefix your call sign with "Flight Test" as the current
NOTAM requires. We do this all the time at Phoenix Goodyear. As a matter of
fact our TRACON in PHX has been allowing VFR within the Class B for the last
week. They think the rules are ridiculous and do not follow them.
Good luck with the job hunting. My airline company is currently not hiring
but may in the near future if things turn around again.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S PHX DVT
Finishing the wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector |
I originally built mine with the center console, and just recently removed
it. I couldn't figure out any slick place to mount the manual trim, so I
just mounted it on a small bracket above the fuel selector. It's *much*
easier to get under the panel now, and there is a lot more room for your
legs.
The on/off selector has been well-talked about, if you're interested take a
look in the archives. The short answer is, virtually all airplanes with
on/off fuel valves are high-wing airplanes. High-wingers gravity feed fuel
to the fuel selector, low-winger "suck" the fuel to the selector via a pump
or pumps. If you put an on/off valve in it, you will drain one tank faster
than the other and when one tank runs dry it will suck air from it, rather
than fuel from the other. Thus you become a glider even though you have
fuel onboard - just no way to get at it.
Flamer Disclaimer: It *may* not work this way in *all* applications, there
may be *some* low wing airplanes with on/off valves, and I may be full of
some smelly substance, but this is the general explanation...
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Im building an RV6 and trying to work out how not to have a center
> console, I have manual elevator trim which i cant find a good place for
> without the console also the fuel selector.if anyone has done it before
> I would love to here some ideas.
> also instead of having a fuel selector for left and right how about just
> conecting the two tanks with a T fitting and having and ON/ OFF tap like
> cessna has?
>
> Dave Tennant
> RV-6 Australia
> daviation(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector |
Just out of curiosity, who are these owners? Have they cut down the handle
severely? I certainly don't have anything against the electric trim, I may
even convert my manual trim someday. But the handle is *not* difficult to
pull. I even cut mine down a couple of inches so that it lays flat against
the floor, and it's a piece of cake, even my 120lb wife can do it easily.
Here's an experiment: Sit flat on the floor and put an 8lb dumbbell next to
your right thigh. Then lift said dumbbell up 12". You just deployed full
flaps on my 6A at 105mph.
If anyone else has significantly higher forces it's because the stick is a
lot shorter, there is something wrong with their flap system, or they're
trying to deploy flaps at higher than recommended airspeeds.
FWIW,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>I am
> installing electric flaps as all the RV-6 owners I know, say you have
> to be a 500 pound gorilla to operate the manual flaps smoothly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector |
With low wings you need a fuel selector but you can get rid of the vertical
console as many have done -- I have manual trim and didn't want it
cluttering up the floor either -- go to
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html to see my solution.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Del Schneider" <del(at)deltech.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Fuel selector |
GRAVITY has a lot to do with why you can't just have a Cessna tap. At least
on this side of the globe. Down Under it could be the other way around.
Think about it.
Del Schneider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Lou
Tennant
Subject: RV6-List: Fuel selector
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave & Lou Tennant"
Hi
Im building an RV6 and trying to work out how not to have a center
console, I have manual elevator trim which i cant find a good place for
without the console also the fuel selector.if anyone has done it before
I would love to here some ideas.
also instead of having a fuel selector for left and right how about just
conecting the two tanks with a T fitting and having and ON/ OFF tap like
cessna has?
Dave Tennant
RV-6 Australia
daviation(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Discounted Schroth Seat Belts |
In a message dated 10/3/01 9:23:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
>
> > Check out Team Rocket - They have the Hooker Belts with Schroth buckles -
> 5
> > point for $250 a set.
>
> So how good are these Hooker belts? Are they emblazoned with advertising or
> are they available plain? Is the Hooker material heavier than the Scroth who
> claim to be the lightest belt on the market? How heavy is a pair of seat
> belts anyway? The main guy at Morris Technologies is a glider pilot who has
> an RV6. A good combination for us. I am unclear if he is the designer,
> distributor, or manufacturer of the Scroth belts but check it out for
> yourself.
> http://www.icdc.com/~morristec/
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
One more seat belt brand to consider is the Simpson Seat Belt. They have all
the colors, quality and styles available and at a very good price. Simpson is
a standard seat belt for Nascar / Indy car & Drag racing. They work great in
an experimental.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector |
For your fuel selector and trim mounts see if you can get a look at an RV-9
They managed to eliminate the center console you are talking about.
Also, for low wing aircraft you cannot "T" in the fuel lines like a Cessna
because Cessna tanks work off gravity and low wing aircraft require an
engine driven fuel pump. A pump will drw from the fuel line with the path
of least resistance. Whichever side has that path will draw down first then
supply air. This could happen even when the other tank could be 1/2 or more
full. Thats why you don't see a "both" position on any low wing aircraft.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel selector
>Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:49:55 +1000
>
>
>
>Hi
>Im building an RV6 and trying to work out how not to have a center
>console, I have manual elevator trim which i cant find a good place for
>without the console also the fuel selector.if anyone has done it before
>I would love to here some ideas.
>also instead of having a fuel selector for left and right how about just
>conecting the two tanks with a T fitting and having and ON/ OFF tap like
>cessna has?
>
>Dave Tennant
>RV-6 Australia
>daviation(at)yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Simpson Seat Belts |
I checked into these a while back, and was told that the measurements and
hardware won't fit in an RV....an RV-6 anyway. Do you have Simpsons in
your -4?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
One more seat belt brand to consider is the Simpson Seat Belt. They have all
the colors, quality and styles available and at a very good price. Simpson
is
a standard seat belt for Nascar / Indy car & Drag racing. They work great in
an experimental.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector |
Hi Randall,
On your website you mention "commercially available" instrument
templates for drilling screw holes. Where did you find them?
Richard Dudley
-6A fuselage, finishing kit
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> With low wings you need a fuel selector but you can get rid of the vertical
> console as many have done -- I have manual trim and didn't want it
> cluttering up the floor either -- go to
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html to see my solution.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Special Notam 9.28.01 |
It would seem that part 2 item 11 of the VFR Notam from last Friday does
allow for Post Maintenance flights within Enhanced Class B airspace.
So I had actually just redesigned and remade the left side of my cooling air
upper closed plenum since it was just scuffing on the upper cowl. Seemed
like a good opportunity to test the loophole.
All the old croonies with their Cessna's and RV8s stood by on the ramp to
see what would happen to me. I didn't declare anything to ATC other than
standard protocols, as it doesn't say to, and I had great Post Maintenance
flight. ATC never flinched as its not really their job to be the Special
NOTAM Police.
The same crew was on hand to look for F-16s upon touch down. No joy on the
escort, landing was good, and now my plane is gonna get a lot of
maintenance.
By the way, once the dust had settled all the old croonies changed the air
in their tires and went for a short spin as well.
I am going to assume that "Post Maintenance" includes Preventative
Maintenance as well, which any pilot can do. The only requirement I know of
is that all maintenance requires a logbook entry in the maintenance records
to return the aircraft to service. PM is defined in Part 43 App A(c)
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
From the conversations with Sam yesterday and today...
You can order the prop with the correct extension directly from MT.
The MT prop does not have aerobatic limitations with or without extension as
it is made primarily of wood..
The extensions will work with a 'stock' O360.
With the correct length extension the SamJames plenum fits the engine/cowl
correctly as the spacing is correct.
Got most of that yesterday and today. I'm trying to track down a 4"
extension..
Ralph Capen
> Does MT offer their CS prop with different extensions?
>
> Is the MT prop aerobatic?
>
> Does the extended prop work with an O-360 A1A from Van?
>
> With the extended prop will Sam's plenum fit on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman, Jim" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
Ralph,
Good luck.
When you note that the plenum will fit, are you going to use a carb, or FI?
If Air Flow Performance FI, then the plenum will not work without some mods
(a blister being added).
If you are going to use a carb, then what are you going to do about an air
induction system? What scoop? The scoop on the Sam James Cowl will
absolutely not even be close for your application.
If you use FI, then you still have the issue of the scoop, and how to get
air from it into a filter and then into the FI system.
I love my Sam James Cowl, and I like Sam James, but everybody must
understand that the distance between the firewall to the prop spinner plate
is the biggest challenge with this cowl, it is NOT the only problem (on the
RV-6). It can be done, and you are making the biggest problems go away with
you're proposed set up... but still this will not be like hanging a standard
cowl... You will still have significant more work than standard.
Sam is in the business of selling these things, keep that in mind.
jim
Tampa
Self Proclaimed Sam James Cowl Expert Extraordinaire
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl
From the conversations with Sam yesterday and today...
You can order the prop with the correct extension directly from MT.
The MT prop does not have aerobatic limitations with or without extension as
it is made primarily of wood..
The extensions will work with a 'stock' O360.
With the correct length extension the SamJames plenum fits the engine/cowl
correctly as the spacing is correct.
Got most of that yesterday and today. I'm trying to track down a 4"
extension..
Ralph Capen
> Does MT offer their CS prop with different extensions?
>
> Is the MT prop aerobatic?
>
> Does the extended prop work with an O-360 A1A from Van?
>
> With the extended prop will Sam's plenum fit on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
I was planning on the FI route...Airflow perf makes a thingy to get air into
the system. The hidden fiberglass work on the plenum I'll probably get away
with.
Thanks for your input...
Apprentice in training...
> When you note that the plenum will fit, are you going to use a carb, or
FI?
> If Air Flow Performance FI, then the plenum will not work without some
mods
> (a blister being added).
>
> If you are going to use a carb, then what are you going to do about an air
> induction system? What scoop? The scoop on the Sam James Cowl will
> absolutely not even be close for your application.
>
> If you use FI, then you still have the issue of the scoop, and how to get
> air from it into a filter and then into the FI system.
>
> I love my Sam James Cowl, and I like Sam James, but everybody must
> understand that the distance between the firewall to the prop spinner
plate
> is the biggest challenge with this cowl, it is NOT the only problem (on
the
> RV-6). It can be done, and you are making the biggest problems go away
with
> you're proposed set up... but still this will not be like hanging a
standard
> cowl... You will still have significant more work than standard.
>
> Sam is in the business of selling these things, keep that in mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman, Jim" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
Ralph.... Air Flow Performance does NOT make "a thingy to get air into the
system". Why does nobody believe me when I tell you that you are being lied
to?
I guess we all have to do what we all have to do.
Enjoy. Should I give you my phone number now, or just wait until you get
pissed that it doesn't fit?.
I'm signing off of this Sam James Cowl string now (as you all clap!). I'm
here for assistance if anybody wants it.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl
I was planning on the FI route...Airflow perf makes a thingy to get air into
the system. The hidden fiberglass work on the plenum I'll probably get away
with.
Thanks for your input...
Apprentice in training...
> When you note that the plenum will fit, are you going to use a carb, or
FI?
> If Air Flow Performance FI, then the plenum will not work without some
mods
> (a blister being added).
>
> If you are going to use a carb, then what are you going to do about an air
> induction system? What scoop? The scoop on the Sam James Cowl will
> absolutely not even be close for your application.
>
> If you use FI, then you still have the issue of the scoop, and how to get
> air from it into a filter and then into the FI system.
>
> I love my Sam James Cowl, and I like Sam James, but everybody must
> understand that the distance between the firewall to the prop spinner
plate
> is the biggest challenge with this cowl, it is NOT the only problem (on
the
> RV-6). It can be done, and you are making the biggest problems go away
with
> you're proposed set up... but still this will not be like hanging a
standard
> cowl... You will still have significant more work than standard.
>
> Sam is in the business of selling these things, keep that in mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl |
Hee, Hee, I'm still a believer Jim, I'm still a believer. I've heard the
word and I believe in the word. Not only does the RV-6 cowl not fit but
neither does the plenum. Hallelujah, and praise the word.
I'm sure the people at Airflow Performance are genuine when they say they
have a "thingy" that works. I doubt they've actually tried to install one
on an RV-6 though.
Don't worry Jim, at least I'm listening to ya.
Mike
>
> Ralph.... Air Flow Performance does NOT make "a thingy to get air into the
> system". Why does nobody believe me when I tell you that you are being
lied
> to?
>
> I guess we all have to do what we all have to do.
>
> Enjoy. Should I give you my phone number now, or just wait until you get
> pissed that it doesn't fit?.
>
> I'm signing off of this Sam James Cowl string now (as you all clap!). I'm
> here for assistance if anybody wants it.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Ralph's RV6A & Sam James Cowl
>
>
> I was planning on the FI route...Airflow perf makes a thingy to get air
into
> the system. The hidden fiberglass work on the plenum I'll probably get
away
> with.
>
> Thanks for your input...
>
> Apprentice in training...
>
> > When you note that the plenum will fit, are you going to use a carb, or
> FI?
> > If Air Flow Performance FI, then the plenum will not work without some
> mods
> > (a blister being added).
> >
> > If you are going to use a carb, then what are you going to do about an
air
> > induction system? What scoop? The scoop on the Sam James Cowl will
> > absolutely not even be close for your application.
> >
> > If you use FI, then you still have the issue of the scoop, and how to
get
> > air from it into a filter and then into the FI system.
> >
> > I love my Sam James Cowl, and I like Sam James, but everybody must
> > understand that the distance between the firewall to the prop spinner
> plate
> > is the biggest challenge with this cowl, it is NOT the only problem (on
> the
> > RV-6). It can be done, and you are making the biggest problems go away
> with
> > you're proposed set up... but still this will not be like hanging a
> standard
> > cowl... You will still have significant more work than standard.
> >
> > Sam is in the business of selling these things, keep that in mind.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simpson Seat Belts |
The 5-point Simpson harness fits great in my RV-6.
320 hrs. Lots of NON-straight&level.
Boyd Braem
appropriating "Taxi Joe's" computer up in the
Tennessee
mountains.
--- Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I checked into these a while back, and was told that
> the measurements and
> hardware won't fit in an RV....an RV-6 anyway. Do
> you have Simpsons in
> your -4?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> One more seat belt brand to consider is the Simpson
> Seat Belt. They have all
> the colors, quality and styles available and at a
> very good price. Simpson
> is
> a standard seat belt for Nascar / Indy car & Drag
> racing. They work great in
> an experimental.
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribe
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector |
In a message dated 10/4/01 10:17:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ebundy(at)velocitus.net writes:
<< Just out of curiosity, who are these owners? Have they cut down the handle
severely? I certainly don't have anything against the electric trim, I may
even convert my manual trim someday. But the handle is *not* difficult to
pull. I even cut mine down a couple of inches so that it lays flat against
the floor, and it's a piece of cake, even my 120lb wife can do it easily. >>
This is true. I have the manual flaps and lowering them isn't a problem.
The amount of strength required to lower the flaps shouldn't be a deciding
factor. If you like electric stuff, or if you think you'll have a better
cockpit from an ergonomic or space standpoint, go electric, but don't be
scared off by the force required to activate the manual flaps...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Oil leaks after 25 hours. |
I just pulled the cowl after 25 hours to do my first oil change and
found that oil had been sprayed all over the forward right side of my
cowl. From the distribution of the spray it appears to be coming
from the lower junction where the number one cylinder meets the crank
case. It's not a safety of flight issue since the quantity of oil is
pretty small but it still has me concerned.
Have any of you experienced shade tree mechanics encountered this
before? Is it just a matter of reducing my oil pressure ( runs about
86 psi on the high end ) and re-torquing the bolts on the cylinder
head?
Looking for any advice...
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
N89JA ( in the shop )
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A slap in the face. |
Hey guys, I am in the Motorcycle salvage business. I have been doing it
since 1973. Around 1975 a PHD named Hirt (appropriate) did a study in
the LA area, that still stands true today. Any helmet is better than no
helmet. The human skull busts open like an egg when it hits something
hard with no helmet on it. Yellow and white are good safety colors to
wear. People may see you. Most MC accidents involve cars that the MC guy
thought the car driver looked him in the eye and saw him. Most car
people look for things that will harm them (other cars and trucks and
buses). They don't see motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians. About 80% of
all motorcycle accidents are a car heading south, a motorcycle heading
north, and the car turns left without a signal, probably because the car
guy didn't see the MC guy. As a result of follow up , years after the
'no-helmet' guy hit the immovable object with his head, even if he
looked and acted fine, at the time, many developed brain tumors.
Also, if I had a dollar for every new rider that I told this story to,
and as a result, he got over his claustraphobia, and went with a full
coverage helmet,....that came back to me with a story something like,
"Boy am I glad I bought that hot, full coverage helmet. I avoided a car,
and hit the curb going 15 mph. I landed on my face. You were right. I
would have lost my teeth and most of my jaw. Look at all the scars...ON
THE HELMET!".... Hell I'd have enough for a paint job on my RV9a!!!
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Coonan" <gcoonan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions |
Ok, OK, I found out when I went to my first flying as an RV builder that
building a -7 was not going to get me much respect (pre-punched hole
thing). Being a person that does not take the easy way out and promptly
went home and TIG welded all of the holes closed. (TIG welding 22ga
aluminum should get me some real respect). I will now proceed to layout
and drill all the holes. I hope that this humble gesture will bring a
little dignity back the -7ners and allow us to still remain associated
with the Van's air force
Gary Coonan
Rockvale, TN
RV-7 N989WT (Wings)
gcoonan(at)home.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Homer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions
Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, Snivel, Whine, I think those guys at Van's lied to
me, my pre-punched airplane kit came with parts that didn't just jump
off the bench and assemble themselves. What good is this pre-punched
stuff if it ain't perfect?
Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, I actually had to think ahead and solve a problem.
Whine, Snivel, Snivel, The instructions are soooo confusing. I don't see
how the thousands of completed RV's were actually finished. They
probably cheated somehow.
Mooaan, Bitch, Bitch, I don't know why Van's doesn't do more for me,
after all he's probably making a huge 15% profit margin.
Waaiill, Mooaan, why can't Van's have every little problem and detail
worked out ahead of time for me so I don't even have to look at the
plans and think how things fit together.
Whaaaaah, The instructions are like, toootally bogus dude. Why doesn't
Van's supply an interpreter with every kit, or better yet why doesn't he
include a real life mechanic in the box to do it all for me. I'll bet he
used to. How else could all the other earlier RV3's, -4's, -6's, -8's
and -9's not to mention the QB kits have been finished by ordinary
people?
Whiiiiinnne, Snivel, I think Van's is fibbing when he says this is the
easiest kit they have produced to build to date. I'll bet all those real
early builders of -3's, -4's and -6's had it waaaay easier without all
these virtually self-aligning pre-punched holes, CAD produced drawings,
and ambiguous confusing instructions. They probably got something
simple, like materials kits, manually drafted inkings for plans, and NO
bogus instructions to confuse them.
Dan, if something this trivial is all it takes to start you bitching on
this project, boy are you in for a REAL learning experience.
Have fun,
Romer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | problems riveting VS skin to rear spar |
I hit a stumbling block tonight. Got the VS spar & center rib riveted up on
both sides, no prob. Got the VS off the jig onto the workbench for
finishing the edges...squeezing those rivets. Cool, except most of the
rivets along the rear spar are nearly impossible to squeeze with the tools
I've got. The problem is that the shop heads on the stiffener/spar rivets
are getting in the way. They don't allow the yoke (Tatco, Avery, etc.) to
get close enough to even nearly center up on the shop heads of the skin
rivets.
I ground off a bit of the end of one of my yokes, and that improved the
situation by allowing the yoke to get *slightly* closer, but I'm still
getting a slightly slanted shop head. Within tolerance, but I want it to be
better. Am I correct in assuming that the various solutions would be:
a) get one of those thin, dieless yokes (this seems ideal?)
b) get some sort of thinned-out ViseGrip squeezer
c) attempt to buck these rivets
What do you guys think is the best option? Looking back, I suppose I should
have reversed those stiffener/spar rivets, putting the machine head on the
rear! Duh...20-20 hindsight, oh well.
Any advice is appreciated.
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector |
I'm not working on the fuselage yet, so I'll have to evaluate the situation
when I get there, but I am toying with the idea of bending the flap actuator
handle to match the contour of the floor. I'll get the bonus mechanical
advantage from the lower position on the handle, as well as the benefits of
the longer handle too.
Don Winters
(wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector
Just out of curiosity, who are these owners? Have they cut down the handle
severely? I certainly don't have anything against the electric trim, I may
even convert my manual trim someday. But the handle is *not* difficult to
pull. I even cut mine down a couple of inches so that it lays flat against
the floor, and it's a piece of cake, even my 120lb wife can do it easily.
Here's an experiment: Sit flat on the floor and put an 8lb dumbbell next to
your right thigh. Then lift said dumbbell up 12". You just deployed full
flaps on my 6A at 105mph.
If anyone else has significantly higher forces it's because the stick is a
lot shorter, there is something wrong with their flap system, or they're
trying to deploy flaps at higher than recommended airspeeds.
FWIW,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>I am
> installing electric flaps as all the RV-6 owners I know, say you have
> to be a 500 pound gorilla to operate the manual flaps smoothly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problems riveting VS skin to rear spar |
If you have the Avery riveter/dimpler "c clamp" tool, or equivalent, the
riviter option will do the job. You are bucking the rivits but both the
buck and the gun are held firm in line. Thats how I did it.
Jim Bean
RV-8
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
> I hit a stumbling block tonight. Got the VS spar & center rib riveted up on
> both sides, no prob. Got the VS off the jig onto the workbench for
> finishing the edges...squeezing those rivets. Cool, except most of the
> rivets along the rear spar are nearly impossible to squeeze with the tools
> I've got. The problem is that the shop heads on the stiffener/spar rivets
> are getting in the way. They don't allow the yoke (Tatco, Avery, etc.) to
> get close enough to even nearly center up on the shop heads of the skin
> rivets.
>
> I ground off a bit of the end of one of my yokes, and that improved the
> situation by allowing the yoke to get *slightly* closer, but I'm still
> getting a slightly slanted shop head. Within tolerance, but I want it to be
> better. Am I correct in assuming that the various solutions would be:
>
> a) get one of those thin, dieless yokes (this seems ideal?)
>
> b) get some sort of thinned-out ViseGrip squeezer
>
> c) attempt to buck these rivets
>
> What do you guys think is the best option? Looking back, I suppose I should
> have reversed those stiffener/spar rivets, putting the machine head on the
> rear! Duh...20-20 hindsight, oh well.
>
> Any advice is appreciated.
>
> )_( Dan
> dan(at)rvproject.com
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problems riveting VS skin to rear spar |
Ignore this. I misread and thought the problem was the horizontal.
Jim Bean
Jim Bean wrote:
>
>
> If you have the Avery riveter/dimpler "c clamp" tool, or equivalent, the
> riviter option will do the job. You are bucking the rivits but both the
> buck and the gun are held firm in line. Thats how I did it.
> Jim Bean
> RV-8
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
> >
> >
> > I hit a stumbling block tonight. Got the VS spar & center rib riveted up on
> > both sides, no prob. Got the VS off the jig onto the workbench for
> > finishing the edges...squeezing those rivets. Cool, except most of the
> > rivets along the rear spar are nearly impossible to squeeze with the tools
> > I've got. The problem is that the shop heads on the stiffener/spar rivets
> > are getting in the way. They don't allow the yoke (Tatco, Avery, etc.) to
> > get close enough to even nearly center up on the shop heads of the skin
> > rivets.
> >
> > I ground off a bit of the end of one of my yokes, and that improved the
> > situation by allowing the yoke to get *slightly* closer, but I'm still
> > getting a slightly slanted shop head. Within tolerance, but I want it to be
> > better. Am I correct in assuming that the various solutions would be:
> >
> > a) get one of those thin, dieless yokes (this seems ideal?)
> >
> > b) get some sort of thinned-out ViseGrip squeezer
> >
> > c) attempt to buck these rivets
> >
> > What do you guys think is the best option? Looking back, I suppose I should
> > have reversed those stiffener/spar rivets, putting the machine head on the
> > rear! Duh...20-20 hindsight, oh well.
> >
> > Any advice is appreciated.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > dan(at)rvproject.com
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
I am experiancing strange recurances of rv-list emails
downlode errors and duplicate messages.
I'm trying to isolate the problem, is anyone else having similar
trouble?
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector) |
> Hi Randall, On your website you mention "commercially available"
> instrument templates for drilling screw holes. Where did you find them?
> Richard Dudley
Chief Aircraft, P/N FT 06, $26.95. 1 tool does 2 1/4", 2 7/8", and 3 1/8"
holes.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: threat to GA (not RV related, long) |
>
>Does it not make more sense to rule out IFR traffic instead of VFR traffic?
>
>At least you know when you rule out IFR traffic that nobody will drop a
>plane on you in bad weather or at night.
>
>Airlines are suffering big time in Europe now as well, Swissair grounded
>completely and Sabena has filed for chapter11 because 50% is owned by
>Swissair.
>KLM is cutting back 15% and laying off 2500.
>BA is laying off 7000.
>BMI is laying off 600.
>Aer Lingus is in trouble as well, earlier reports said they would ground 6-7
>aircraft. They have lost 60% on their profit margin because of the collapse
>of transatlantic traffic. The Irish minister annouced today that if things
>run at the current rate, they will run out of cash by January.
>Virgin Atlantic lays off 1200.
Sad to say Ansett Australia is in liqidaters hands(70y commpany) and Air
New Zealand has been suspended from trading on NZs stock market.
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: trouble- test |
>
>I am experiancing strange recurances of rv-list emails
>downlode errors and duplicate messages.
>I'm trying to isolate the problem, is anyone else having similar
>trouble?
Yes, and mixing up and merging of previous messages.
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Belts - Simp |
Just a heads up. I recently called a well respected manufacturer of
aviation seat belts and asked if he could build a belt system around some
rotary latches that I had. He said that he would be happy to. We spoke for
a few minutes about what I wanted and then he asked what brand of latches I
had. When I said they were Simpson, there was silence on the other end of
the phone. He then very politely suggested that that might not be a great
idea. He suggested that they may not be of the same quality as the Schroth
(or however the hell you spell it)latches , which he uses on his restraints.
By the way, this is particularly disturbing in combination with the
following situation. In the mid 1980s my father ran a motorcycle road
racing organization called AAMRR. Fatalities are unfortunately a fact of
life in racing, but my dad took every fatality as some kind of personal
failure on his part to "keep the guys safe". (He used to tell me that when
you do an inherently dangerous activity, you are responsible to do
everything practically possible to make it as safe as possible, hmm sounds
familiar ) He hired the best corner workers, bought his own communication
system when the systems provided by the race tracks proved to be unreliable,
and he kept an MD available whenever the bikes were on the track. (unique
at the time for low dollar club racing) But there was one fatality that
really bothered him. It was a gentleman who, by all rights should have been
fine. The crash was not that forceful according to the corner workers but
he died of head injuries. Someone suggested to my father that maybe the
helmet had not performed as it should have. The MD offered to X ray the
helmet, to look for anything strange. What he found was FRIGHTENING. There
is a group called the Snell foundation. They rate auto and motorcycle
helmets. All of their testing is done on the centerline of the helmet, at
least it used to be. What the Xray uncovered was that Simpson had added
layers of fiberglass in precisely the spots where the Snell tests were
administered. When my father found out about this, he borrowed, Arai, Bell,
and Shoei helmets for similar testing. They had uniform fiberglass all
around. In other words SIMPSON HAD RIGGED THEIR HELMETS TO PASS THE SNELL
TEST, while allowing sub par protection in other areas of the helmet. This
was done ostensibly so they could advertise a very low weight. In summary,
I wouldn't strap Osama Bin Laden into Simpson restraints. Simpson helmets
are best used as planters, and Simpson restraints are . . where could they
be used. . . in the bed room???
Just my opinion
Don Mei
23 Kings Lane
Essex, CT 06426
p.s. I realize that my analysis is not exactly scientific. Simpson may in
fact make great stuff now, but do you want to take a chance?? Do you want
to support a company that has done that in the past??
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
I've never had my VALCOM radio working. I can transmit and receive weakly
for about 2.5 miles and that's it. VALCOM says that they had a problem with
some radio trays being too long and recommended that I file the forward edge
of the tray down to make sure the unit is seating fully in the tray. Done it
... it can't get any more fully seated. Now what? Before I send it back for
bench testing I'd like to test my antenna leads and the antenna itself. Any
advice on how I can do that? I don't want to invest $ in equipment if I
don't have to and there isn't anything like an antenna tester at our little
air field.
Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | firewall shields |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I've checked the archive (a bunch) but can't seem to find how big the hole
in the firewall shield should be in relation to the grommet it's covering.
I'm planning to cut 3/4" holes in the firewall for my 1/4" control cables,
and I think I should order the shields with 1/2" holes so the metal edge
doesn't get to close to the cable. Does this sound about right? Is there
soem rule of thumb for figuring size of hole in shield vs. size of hole in
grommet?
TIA
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB, 180 w/cs prop
ready to cut the 1st holes in firewall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Plexi Holes in Canopy |
Fellow Listers,
Another quick few questions for ya regarding canopy install. Ive done all
the trimming/fitting etc but have a few questions before I proceed:
1. I plan to tap everywhere (#6) except the rear bows where I plan to
use rivnuts...any problems so far?
2. The 20 yrs of the RVator shows some diagrams of screw installation
and mentions that for #6 screws the plexi hole should be 5/16". No problem,
but I cant find a 5/16" plexi bit. Tried Brown, Harbor Freight, Vans, and
Avery along with many local suppliers. Best I could do was a 1/4 in Plexi
bit from Avery...will this work or is there a better way?
3. Plan to put a little JB Weld on the rivnuts when I install them for
some push out strength. Also plan to use Vibra-Tite on the screws. Any
flaws here??
4. Would like to run a bead of something along the seam between the
plexi and the alum. skirts to prevent water from getting in there. Any ideas
on this....
Thanks again for all of your help.....
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
Steve,
You probably already checked this, but are the coaxial cable and the
connectors themselves OK? I dont know if you used prefabricated antennas or
not. I had trouble fabricating the ends of the RG-58 cables, i.e.,
installing the BNC connectors which Val sent to me for my INS 422. Is there
continuity between the center conductors at each end? Is the braid shorted
to the center conductor?
I can't see how the unit not being fully seated would cause weak
transmission - seems like it would either work or not if the contact in the
back of the tray was bad.
Good luck
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Upgrading to IFR so I can fly again
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: Antenna tester (Cheap?)
>
> I've never had my VALCOM radio working. I can transmit and receive weakly
> for about 2.5 miles and that's it. VALCOM says that they had a problem
with
> some radio trays being too long and recommended that I file the forward
edge
> of the tray down to make sure the unit is seating fully in the tray. Done
it
> ... it can't get any more fully seated. Now what? Before I send it back
for
> bench testing I'd like to test my antenna leads and the antenna itself.
Any
> advice on how I can do that? I don't want to invest $ in equipment if I
> don't have to and there isn't anything like an antenna tester at our
little
> air field.
>
> Steve Soule
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions |
Gary,
I'm thinking of building another RV-4 (I know, I know all the
psychologists tell me that!), anyways I was thinkin'... if you're that good
at TIGin' ... maybe "we" could TIG weld one together and then I'd have the
super light/super strong RV-4 I've always wanted. What do ya' say
PARTNER...
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Coonan <gcoonan(at)home.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions
>
> Ok, OK, I found out when I went to my first flying as an RV builder that
> building a -7 was not going to get me much respect (pre-punched hole
> thing). Being a person that does not take the easy way out and promptly
> went home and TIG welded all of the holes closed. (TIG welding 22ga
> aluminum should get me some real respect). I will now proceed to layout
> and drill all the holes. I hope that this humble gesture will bring a
> little dignity back the -7ners and allow us to still remain associated
> with the Van's air force
>
>
> Gary Coonan
> Rockvale, TN
> RV-7 N989WT (Wings)
> gcoonan(at)home.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Homer
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder control horn -- bogus instructions
>
>
> Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, Snivel, Whine, I think those guys at Van's lied to
> me, my pre-punched airplane kit came with parts that didn't just jump
> off the bench and assemble themselves. What good is this pre-punched
> stuff if it ain't perfect?
>
> Whaaaaah, Whaaaaah, I actually had to think ahead and solve a problem.
>
> Whine, Snivel, Snivel, The instructions are soooo confusing. I don't see
> how the thousands of completed RV's were actually finished. They
> probably cheated somehow.
>
> Mooaan, Bitch, Bitch, I don't know why Van's doesn't do more for me,
> after all he's probably making a huge 15% profit margin.
>
> Waaiill, Mooaan, why can't Van's have every little problem and detail
> worked out ahead of time for me so I don't even have to look at the
> plans and think how things fit together.
>
> Whaaaaah, The instructions are like, toootally bogus dude. Why doesn't
> Van's supply an interpreter with every kit, or better yet why doesn't he
> include a real life mechanic in the box to do it all for me. I'll bet he
> used to. How else could all the other earlier RV3's, -4's, -6's, -8's
> and -9's not to mention the QB kits have been finished by ordinary
> people?
>
> Whiiiiinnne, Snivel, I think Van's is fibbing when he says this is the
> easiest kit they have produced to build to date. I'll bet all those real
> early builders of -3's, -4's and -6's had it waaaay easier without all
> these virtually self-aligning pre-punched holes, CAD produced drawings,
> and ambiguous confusing instructions. They probably got something
> simple, like materials kits, manually drafted inkings for plans, and NO
> bogus instructions to confuse them.
>
> Dan, if something this trivial is all it takes to start you bitching on
> this project, boy are you in for a REAL learning experience.
>
> Have fun,
> Romer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I've never had my VALCOM radio working. I can transmit and receive weakly
>for about 2.5 miles and that's it. VALCOM says that they had a problem with
>some radio trays being too long and recommended that I file the forward edge
>of the tray down to make sure the unit is seating fully in the tray. Done it
>... it can't get any more fully seated. Now what? Before I send it back for
>bench testing I'd like to test my antenna leads and the antenna itself. Any
>advice on how I can do that? I don't want to invest $ in equipment if I
>don't have to and there isn't anything like an antenna tester at our little
>air field.
>
>Steve Soule
>
It sounds possible that your radio is not hooked up to the antenna at
all. Do you know an amateur radio operator? Call them.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
Amateur Radio N5LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flap Mod |
I'm in the process of doing that installation myself.
Mel Jordan is the guy that documented it. Mel came and visited me to look
at my project shortly after WTC went down (he was stuck here as a lot of us
still are under enhanced class B). Mel told me that he actually got the
idea from someone else...but like all good ideas - taken and used by
everyone.
My next step in the process is to relocate the actuator handle from the
center to the right side...because of the motor, it will only work on the
right side. After that it's the internal stiffening tube...
Meanwhile, it is being talked about and shown. Mike Nellis has the pics on
his site... http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas.htm will get you started.
Ralph Capen
SNIP
> There is an electric flap mod that I haven't heard any one talking about
> in awhile. It's an RV6 thing where the flap motor is moved to one side
> and hidden in the side panel that already exists. The actuator tube is
> removed from the center and put on the right side. The result is no
> center section like the manual flap boys. They claim much easier access
> to storage as they can reach behind the passenger seat easily.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Holes in Canopy |
> Fellow Listers,
>
> Another quick few questions for ya regarding canopy install. Ive done
all
> the trimming/fitting etc but have a few questions before I proceed:
>
> 1. I plan to tap everywhere (#6) except the rear bows where I plan to
> use rivnuts...any problems so far?
>
> 2. The 20 yrs of the RVator shows some diagrams of screw installation
> and mentions that for #6 screws the plexi hole should be 5/16". No
problem,
> but I cant find a 5/16" plexi bit. Tried Brown, Harbor Freight, Vans, and
> Avery along with many local suppliers. Best I could do was a 1/4 in Plexi
> bit from Avery...will this work or is there a better way?
Use a unibit in 5/16" - practice on a piece of scrap plexi, and you'll see
that it works as well or better than the plexi bits and will not cause
cracks.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr Stan Kremp" <skremp(at)omniglobal.net> |
Does anyone have a No-hole/ Thin Nose Squeezer Yoke that fits the Avery
Hand Rivet Squeezer for sale? I'm interested in taking said item off
your hands at a discounted price. Thanks, Stan PS:Homer I
appreciated your comments to Dan. You saved me the effort. You were
pretty cruel but on target.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
I've been having some similar strange problems ( double rv-list posts,
out-going email delays yet incoming get through without a hitch, etc...) but
I just presumed it was my ISP.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List: trouble- test
>
> >
> >I am experiancing strange recurances of rv-list emails
> >downlode errors and duplicate messages.
> >I'm trying to isolate the problem, is anyone else having similar
> >trouble?
> Yes, and mixing up and merging of previous messages.
> Les Rowles.
> Traralgon Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
Ask any amateur radio operator (Ham) to do a simple SWR check. This test
involves installing an SWR meter in lines with the antenna, almost any Ham
has a VHF SWR meter and knows how to use it. If your lucky, he/she will
also have an antenna analyzer. I do, wouldn't do any antenna work without
it. Sells for about $250.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (moving to hanger next month)
Vienna, VA
Carl Froehlich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna tester (Cheap?)
>
> Steve,
>
> You probably already checked this, but are the coaxial cable and the
> connectors themselves OK? I dont know if you used prefabricated antennas
or
> not. I had trouble fabricating the ends of the RG-58 cables, i.e.,
> installing the BNC connectors which Val sent to me for my INS 422. Is
there
> continuity between the center conductors at each end? Is the braid shorted
> to the center conductor?
>
> I can't see how the unit not being fully seated would cause weak
> transmission - seems like it would either work or not if the contact in
the
> back of the tray was bad.
>
> Good luck
>
> Jerry Carter
> RV-8A
> Upgrading to IFR so I can fly again
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Antenna tester (Cheap?)
>
>
> >
> > I've never had my VALCOM radio working. I can transmit and receive
weakly
> > for about 2.5 miles and that's it. VALCOM says that they had a problem
> with
> > some radio trays being too long and recommended that I file the forward
> edge
> > of the tray down to make sure the unit is seating fully in the tray.
Done
> it
> > ... it can't get any more fully seated. Now what? Before I send it back
> for
> > bench testing I'd like to test my antenna leads and the antenna itself.
> Any
> > advice on how I can do that? I don't want to invest $ in equipment if I
> > don't have to and there isn't anything like an antenna tester at our
> little
> > air field.
> >
> > Steve Soule
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electric flap mod |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
The problem I see with modifying the electric flap assy so the worm
drive is on the side of the fuselage is that when deploying flaps they
will not deploy symmetrically with air loads on them. One side will be
stiffer than the other side...there is a degree of flex in the torque
tubes and I don't think reinforcing the torque tube would help much,
especially over the added length from one side of the fuse to the other.
I can grab one flap and move it up and down about 1/2-3/4" on my plane
without affecting the other side. The flap torque tube flexes over its
length (even though its approximately 18" or so) and the center block
and floor flexes to a minor degree but it translates into a larger
degree of movement in the flap.
BTW, I have manual flaps with the shortened arm and love them. I really
like it on short field landings. If you have trouble pulling the flap
handle then it's time to visit the gym a few times a week ;). And if
your passenger's behind is too big, then maybe he needs to work out
too....
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 228 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com'"
| Subject: | Post Maintenance Notam |
Greg,
where's the notam say you must prefix your call sign with anything?
I can't seem to find that.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | hooker harnesses |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I have Hookers in my -6 and like them on my side, but they're an
absolute pain to adjust for passengers of varying proportions. I
usually spend a good five minutes each time I buckle in a pax fooling
with adjusting the lap belt...they're not easy to adjust especially on
the right side between the passenger and the sidewall. The ease of
adjustment are clearly better in Vans seatbelts, since only one side has
the adjustment thingie and the other side is adjusted at the buckle.
I believe the Hooker's are better suited for tandem airplanes, where you
have more room on the sides.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 O-360C/S flying 228 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
> You probably already checked this, but are the coaxial cable and the
> connectors themselves OK?
A cheap way to test your antenna is to build another coaxial cable. I was
having similar problems and had checked the cable with the ohm meter and it
checked out OK, but the problem persisted: 3 mile out things faded. This was
after I had changed the antenna. Built a new cable and now.........well the
line boy said one day he could always tell it was me because my radio is so
loud. It is my norm to announce 10 miles out and the radio is loud. I have
called 25 miles out and gotten a reply.
> I can't see how the unit not being fully seated would cause weak
> transmission - seems like it would either work or not if the contact in
the
> back of the tray was bad.
I agree. What's with that?
Still Grounded Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
The co-ax on the VALCOM unit doesn't connect directly to the radio. Instead
it is a 90 degree plug that is fastened to the tray. The radio unit plugs
into this (I hope) when you tighten the unit in the tray. As near as I can
see, you cannot connect the antenna lead directly to the radio without doing
some surgery to the tray.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
> I can't see how the unit not being fully seated would cause weak
> transmission - seems like it would either work or not if the contact in
the
> back of the tray was bad.
I agree. What's with that?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Simpson Seat Belts |
In a message dated 10/4/01 10:09:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
>
> I checked into these a while back, and was told that the measurements and
> hardware won't fit in an RV....an RV-6 anyway. Do you have Simpsons in
> your -4?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
>
I put all Simpsom 5 point harness's in my RV-4 and as for me I would not
change them for any brand. They attached to my plane with no problems and
they look good too. And as for the price, they are very competitive with any
high quaility brand.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil leaks after 25 hours. |
I do not know where you leak is but do not mess with the oil pressure.
When finding an oil leak you first have to clean all the oil off the engine.
Best way is with a solvent-air pressure wash wand. When you have every thing
clean and dry, spray either the dye-penetrate developer powder or a spray on
foot powder over the suspected leak. It may be a lot farther way than you
think. Button the engine up and fly it around the patch. The oil leak will
show up on the powder. Another way of finding an oil leak is to use a Black
light as I've been told that oil fluoresces. Good luck.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil leaks after 25 hours.
I just pulled the cowl after 25 hours to do my first oil change and
found that oil had been sprayed all over the forward right side of my
cowl. From the distribution of the spray it appears to be coming
from the lower junction where the number one cylinder meets the crank
case. It's not a safety of flight issue since the quantity of oil is
pretty small but it still has me concerned.
Have any of you experienced shade tree mechanics encountered this
before? Is it just a matter of reducing my oil pressure ( runs about
86 psi on the high end ) and re-torquing the bolts on the cylinder
head?
Looking for any advice...
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
N89JA ( in the shop )
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | electric flap mod |
Once again, I'll chime in here, although my bird is not flying.
I did the "Mel Jordan" flap mod, and put a piece of 4130 steel inside the
torque tube as recommended. I first drilled holes all over the original
tube, then had the two pieces welded together at the ends, and with rosette
welds where all of the holes are.
I can tell you this... ain't no way this tube is going to torque. It added a
couble of pounds, but its a couple of anti-torque pounds. I would agree that
without changing the thickness (and makeup) of the main flap tube, you *are
very likely* get some differential flap deployment from side to side.
jim
Tampa
Thousands of mods, but not flying yet!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Subject: RV-List: electric flap mod
The problem I see with modifying the electric flap assy so the worm
drive is on the side of the fuselage is that when deploying flaps they
will not deploy symmetrically with air loads on them. One side will be
stiffer than the other side...there is a degree of flex in the torque
tubes and I don't think reinforcing the torque tube would help much,
especially over the added length from one side of the fuse to the other.
I can grab one flap and move it up and down about 1/2-3/4" on my plane
without affecting the other side. The flap torque tube flexes over its
length (even though its approximately 18" or so) and the center block
and floor flexes to a minor degree but it translates into a larger
degree of movement in the flap.
BTW, I have manual flaps with the shortened arm and love them. I really
like it on short field landings. If you have trouble pulling the flap
handle then it's time to visit the gym a few times a week ;). And if
your passenger's behind is too big, then maybe he needs to work out
too....
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 228 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New 'job board' for RV folks looking for employment |
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Several in our RV community have been impacted job-wise due to the
tragedy on Sept 11th. I've seen postings on a few of the aviation
bulletin boards from builders that are now looking for work - obviously
work has slowed on their kits. I thought that it might be a good idea
to create a place on the VAF-World Wide Wing site (www.vansaircraft.net)
where those looking for employment can post a resume.
RVators in a position to hire someone might find people they are SURE to
get along with on this board.
It's just a traditional message board - I was thinking you could maybe
post your location and job title in the subject line and enter a short
description of your skills the message body (w/a telephone number). I
don't know if this will help anyone, but I thought I would at least give
it a try. Us RVators have a history of helping each other out.
It's the top story at http://www.vansaircraft.net
Best regards,
Doug Reeves
VAF-World Wide Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder Remote Ident Wiring |
I posted this message on the aeroelectric list the other day and didn't get
any response so I thought I would post it here.
I have placed an order for the new Microair Transponder. The last I heard
was that delivery to the US is pending FAA sign off. While I wait, I am
trying to assemble the wiring harness and connection to the encoder. The
wiring diagram I have only shows one connection from the transponder to the
remote ident switch. I am going to use a momentary on switch located in my
Infinity stick grip. The switch has two wires. Obviously one of them goes to
the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the transponder. Does the
other wire go to ground or to 12V power?
Thanks in advance.
Dan Frank
RV-8 electrical/firewall fwd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Discounted Schroth - Correction |
Greg,
I don't remember the exact web address, bu they should be in the Yeller
Pages.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector) |
> Hi Randall, On your website you mention "commercially available"
> instrument templates for drilling screw holes. Where did you find them?
> Richard Dudley
>Chief Aircraft, P/N FT 06, $26.95. 1 tool does 2 1/4", 2 7/8", and 3 1/8"
>holes.
>Randall
Richard,
Avery has a drill template for $12.00. Part No. 9355. I used this and it
works great. It will only do the 2 1/4" and the 3 1/8", but what else do
you need. See www.averytools.com
Dan Frank
RV-8 electrical/firewall fwd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall shields |
Robert,
You may want to look at the ball penetations (I'm sure they are called
something else). They allow a supported fairlead of your cable and are Alu.
They also provide a tight fit without putting undo pressure on your cables.
The one down side is that they cost $25-30 each - we got ours from ACS.
While alittle pricey we sure appreciated them when we had to get the proper
angle on the cable.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (20 hours)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Controlvision exp2 wiring |
Very interesting, I have the b-c 60 amp with the exp bus. I've never
heard of this modification. I, however have to wait until about five
minutes after startup to turn on the alternator. Any sooner and the
charge rate stays zero. It seems as if the ptc that protects that
circuit is opening from inrush current or some such animal. I'll call
them today and see whazzzup.
Steve
Hi:
Is any one out there who completed the wiring for
the
Control visioon tray exp2v,with an alternator of more
than 40amps?
I have a 55 AMP alternator, and the wiring has
to be changed; If some one has completed the changes
I would appreciate details.
Again, the wiring for any alternator more than
40 AMPS has to be changed in some places..
thanks
bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Conditional Inspection |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
12:55:01 PM
Hey All,
Can anyone point me to the web site that has the annual/conditional
inspection checklist for an RV-6?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A slap in the face. |
In a message dated 10/4/01 6:05:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>
> Hey guys, I am in the Motorcycle salvage business. I have been doing it
> since 1973. Around 1975 a PHD named Hirt (appropriate) did a study in
> the LA area, that still stands true today. Any helmet is better than no
> helmet. The human skull busts open like an egg when it hits something
> hard with no helmet on it. Yellow and white are good safety colors to
> wear. People may see you. Most MC accidents involve cars that the MC guy
> thought the car driver looked him in the eye and saw him. Most car
> people look for things that will harm them (other cars and trucks and
> buses). They don't see motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians. About 80% of
> all motorcycle accidents are a car heading south, a motorcycle heading
> north, and the car turns left without a signal, probably because the car
> guy didn't see the MC guy. As a result of follow up , years after the
> 'no-helmet' guy hit the immovable object with his head, even if he
> looked and acted fine, at the time, many developed brain tumors.
> Also, if I had a dollar for every new rider that I told this story to,
> and as a result, he got over his claustraphobia, and went with a full
> coverage helmet,....that came back to me with a story something like,
> "Boy am I glad I bought that hot, full coverage helmet. I avoided a car,
> and hit the curb going 15 mph. I landed on my face. You were right. I
> would have lost my teeth and most of my jaw. Look at all the scars...ON
> THE HELMET!".... Hell I'd have enough for a paint job on my RV9a!!!
>
> Barry
>
>
Where are you going with this Barry???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna tester (Cheap?) |
--- Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> Ask any amateur radio operator (Ham) to do a simple SWR check. This
> test
> involves installing an SWR meter in lines with the antenna, almost
> any Ham
> has a VHF SWR meter and knows how to use it. If your lucky, he/she
> will
> also have an antenna analyzer. I do, wouldn't do any antenna work
> without
> it. Sells for about $250.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (moving to hanger next month)
> Vienna, VA
>
> Carl Froehlich
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna tester (Cheap?)
>
>
>
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > You probably already checked this, but are the coaxial cable and
> the
> > connectors themselves OK? I dont know if you used prefabricated
> antennas
> or
> > not. I had trouble fabricating the ends of the RG-58 cables, i.e.,
> > installing the BNC connectors which Val sent to me for my INS 422.
> Is
> there
> > continuity between the center conductors at each end? Is the braid
> shorted
> > to the center conductor?
> >
> > I can't see how the unit not being fully seated would cause weak
> > transmission - seems like it would either work or not if the
> contact in
> the
> > back of the tray was bad.
> >
> > Good luck
> >
> > Jerry Carter
> > RV-8A
> > Upgrading to IFR so I can fly again
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> > To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> > Subject: RV-List: Antenna tester (Cheap?)
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > I've never had my VALCOM radio working. I can transmit and
> receive
> weakly
> > > for about 2.5 miles and that's it. VALCOM says that they had a
> problem
> > with
> > > some radio trays being too long and recommended that I file the
> forward
> > edge
> > > of the tray down to make sure the unit is seating fully in the
> tray.
> Done
> > it
> > > ... it can't get any more fully seated. Now what? Before I send
> it back
> > for
> > > bench testing I'd like to test my antenna leads and the antenna
> itself.
> > Any
> > > advice on how I can do that? I don't want to invest $ in
> equipment if I
> > > don't have to and there isn't anything like an antenna tester at
> our
> > little
> > > air field.
> > >
> > > Steve Soule
> > >
As a former Ham, I also have an antenna analyzer. It can be used to
check SWR without a radio as it has a built in tunable frequency
generator.
I am posting this so that the guys building in SoCAL know at least one
source that has the equipment to do this.
It has been used on a couple of SoCAL airplanes.
EAA Tech Counselor
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
956+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Controlvision exp2 wiring |
Duh, I had a brain fart. With the exp if you exceed 40 amp the onboard
relay (bosch type) needs to be removed and a jumper soldered in its
place.
(still havin trouble with the field circuit)
steve
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
Hi:
Is any one out there who completed the wiring for
the
Control visioon tray exp2v,with an alternator of more
than 40amps?
I have a 55 AMP alternator, and the wiring has
to be changed; If some one has completed the changes
I would appreciate details.
Again, the wiring for any alternator more than
40 AMPS has to be changed in some places..
thanks
bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Microair Transponder Remote Ident Wiring |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/05/2001 01:43:31 PM
In most avionics, the "other" wire is connected to ground. I am not
familiar with the MicroAir transponder, but it is likely to be the same. I
have an Infinity grip in my -4 with radio flip-flop and transponder ident
switches. Both are connected to ground thru a momentary switch.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
31hrs and ready to paint
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Frank, Dan" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/05/01 12:17 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Microair Transponder Remote Ident Wiring
|
I posted this message on the aeroelectric list the other day and didn't get
any response so I thought I would post it here.
I have placed an order for the new Microair Transponder. The last I heard
was that delivery to the US is pending FAA sign off. While I wait, I am
trying to assemble the wiring harness and connection to the encoder. The
wiring diagram I have only shows one connection from the transponder to the
remote ident switch. I am going to use a momentary on switch located in my
Infinity stick grip. The switch has two wires. Obviously one of them goes
to
the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the transponder. Does the
other wire go to ground or to 12V power?
Thanks in advance.
Dan Frank
RV-8 electrical/firewall fwd
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hooker harnesses |
> I have Hookers in my -6 and like them on my side, but they're an
I plan on having lots of hookers in my -7, but only their heads will be on
my side.
Jeez, did I say that out loud?!?
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
Hi All,
After spending some time talking to John Harmon and Tracy Saylor, it appears
there are many more benefits to the Hot Tip wingtips on the RV-4/RV-6 wing
than just improved top speed. (Improved appearance is too subjective too
claim, since "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". :-) )
Massey Aircraft Service currently manufactures and sells the Hot Tip wingtips
for the RV-4 and RV-6.
I'm talked Massey Aircraft into making and selling me a "one of a kind" set
of RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips for my RV-3, sn 306.
Massey Aircraft have also agreed to let me buy a molded set of Hot Tip
wingtips for the Maroon Marauder when they have the mold completed. I plan
to get "before" and "after" performance numbers when I install the Hot Tips.
Just thought I would give you an update on some of what I've been doing.
Please contact Massey Aircraft Services directly about their wingtips. I am
just one of their customers.
http://www.masseyaircraftservice.com/
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder LOM M332A engine
RV-3 sn 306
RV-4 (I'm sure glad the Hot Tip wingtips are already molded for this! With
enclosed NAV lights and landing lights, even.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | firewall shields |
I've checked the archive (a bunch) but can't seem to find how big the hole
in the firewall shield should be in relation to the grommet it's covering.
I'm planning to cut 3/4" holes in the firewall for my 1/4" control cables,
and I think I should order the shields with 1/2" holes so the metal edge
doesn't get to close to the cable. Does this sound about right? Is there
soem rule of thumb for figuring size of hole in shield vs. size of hole in
grommet?
-------------------------------------------------------
Hi Robert (and others)
There are neat aluminum swivel firewall shields available for about $25 a
shield, but now that I have all of them that I need, I can reveal the
following secret to the world.
Older model Beechcraft Bonanzas had similiar swivel firewall shield made out
of a stainless cover and a bakelight(sp) swival. They are great to run
throttle/mixture cables through. Oval the hole and you can run two cables
through each. Make it air tight with a dab of Proseal.
I cleaned off the firewalls of two wrecked Bonanzas for $20 Canadian (lets
keep this a trade secret).
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Thanksgiving weekend in Vancouver |
Hello
Christine and I will be going to Vancouver for the Thanksgiving weekend.
I wonder if any one there would be in a position to accept a drop in
visitor for a short Sunday or Monday daytime RV B.S.session.
Jim in Kelowna - re-sizing canopy holes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil leaks after 25 hours. |
J Andrews wrote:
>
>
> I just pulled the cowl after 25 hours to do my first oil change and
> found that oil had been sprayed all over the forward right side of my
> cowl. From the distribution of the spray it appears to be coming
> from the lower junction where the number one cylinder meets the crank
> case. It's not a safety of flight issue since the quantity of oil is
> pretty small but it still has me concerned.
>
> Have any of you experienced shade tree mechanics encountered this
> before? Is it just a matter of reducing my oil pressure ( runs about
> 86 psi on the high end ) and re-torquing the bolts on the cylinder
> head?
>
> Looking for any advice...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Andrews
> N89JA ( in the shop )
>
Airflow in the cowl will make the oil move a lot, often
hiding the source of the leak. Gunking & then ground running
with the cowl off might change the flow pattern & give a
better idea of the source.
Lower right side of engine & cowl might be from a front
crank seal leak. Have you been doing any acro? My O-320
needed a new one about every 2 years. Friends with Lycs in
other aerobatic airframes report the same symptoms. It's
fairly easy & inexpensive to change, but you have to remove
the prop & flywheel.
I assume that you've already checked the oil return line &
rubber hose for cracks near the cylinder.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Interior Upholstery Pockets |
I've made some panels to cover the area next to my knees just forward of
the main spar in my RV6A. I would like my upholstery guy to make pockets
for each side for various small items. I was thinking of accessing them
by a folding over flap that would seal with velcro. The pockets would
angle down so that stuff wouldn't fall out of them.
The left one will be small and more suitable for pens and flashlights.
That side loses some room to the massive Airflow Performance fuel pump.
The right side is bigger and I want the pocket to be able to hold larger
items like portable music players and CD's. It is right below my power
outlet plugs and I will also have music input jacks there.
Can any one critique this idea before it's too late and I've blown
another couple of hundred bucks?
If you have digital pictures or links to pictures of fancy interiors,
could you please send them my way? I would like to provide "Happy Ho"
with a little direction. I specifically want to collect pictures of
upholstery pockets.
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
The distance on my -4 is about 2-3 inches. I know that is not real precise,
but my wings are back in my garage and my fuse is still in the basement.
You can get a real good idea by measuring the length of the bracket on the
fuel tank and the bracket on the fuse. Take into account the overlap where
they bolt together and you should get a real close number. I don't know how
much different your -6 is vs my -4. Good luck and I hope this helped!
-Mike
RV-4
FWF and FWB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
EAA has some info on class B airspace on there web
site, put out this date.
Taxi Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fuel selector/console |
Thank you to all those who replied to my questions .Specially those who
had constuctive or factual comments.
I now have some great ideas for getting rid of the console
And there does apear to be a number of ways to run off both tanks, one
using the standard selector with two one way valves,this would give a
selector which can run left ,both,right,off.
Now the question is it worth the effort?, probably not for me .I think i
will just change tanks like i do in my cherokee
Dave T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Interior Upholstery Pockets |
If you have digital pictures or links to pictures of fancy interiors,
could you please send them my way?
----------------------------------------------
Hi Norman
This is off subject a bit but the back of the battery box is a nice width
for a pocket for the Canada Air Pilot and/or AIP.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions |
>Pay attention to funny business at your airports, and report it. Do not
Agree with this part.
>break the rules because you think they are stupid. I now understand... the
>Class B "Veil" protects 80% of our population from assholes who want to kill
>us. Be careful!
This is exactly the problem. The rules don't protect anybody from
anything. Whoever is making the descisions seems to think that airplanes
are voice controlled from the ground. For example in Salt Lake (it's
where I'm from) The usual approach into SLC from the south flys just
upwind of the most populated part of town. Nothing in the current regs
would keep your evil terrorist type from filing "student IFR" into SLC,
then opening the antrax vent as he passes over town.
Grounding all traffic, then intercepting and shooting down all flying
aircraft _might_ protect from this threat, but the currrent rules do not.
It's nonsensical and I will continue to complain. (Still a bit early for
civil disobedience, but when is it time?) For now, just joined AOPA, and
have written congress members.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 skinning fuse.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT still not flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions |
the
> Class B "Veil" protects 80% of our population from assholes who want to
kill
> us. Be careful!
Dr. Jim, thanks for the thoughts. So, does this mean that the terrorists
will wait until it is legal to fly in class B? Unfortunately, this is the
same mentality as gun control - it assumes that the bad guys will follow all
the rules like us law abiding citizens. Student pilots can fly, as well as
aircraft that claim to have an instructor on board. Not too tough to do.
The hard part to admit is that we are amazingly vulnerable to this sort of
attack, period. The only meaningful thing we can do is to root these
s.o.b's out and clobber them dead. It would also be helpful if the
"regulars" were out flying at the class b airports, watching for strange
things.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying, well actually grounded
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Holes in Canopy |
In a message dated 10/5/01 6:36:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time, KAKlewin(at)aol.com
writes:
<< 4. Would like to run a bead of something along the seam between the
plexi and the alum. skirts to prevent water from getting in there. Any
ideas
on this.... >>
Look for a product called Lexol. Its a clear paintable (non-silicon)
sealant. Works great. I also used it on the threads of the #6 screws.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A slap in the face - AKA Helmet Laws |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problems riveting VS skin to rear spar |
In a message dated 10/4/01 6:20:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
<< a) get one of those thin, dieless yokes (this seems ideal?) >>
Yes!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NuRyanAviation(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Contact Jim Ayers |
Hello Jim, If you get this mail please contact me...have questions regarding
LOM engine. Regards, Kevin Bishop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions |
> On the Chicago Row and Gary WLS radio show this week they were talking
> about twenty (20) 400 lb. suitcase size atomic bombs that were missing
> from Russia. I haven't heard anything about this anywhere else so can't
> comment about the validity but they sounded sure of their information.
> Something like that could easily be carried in the vast majority of GA
> aircraft. THe class B restrictions start making more sence when you
> consider a weapon like this.
Or in a van, or a car, or a truck. So, we should ban all vehicles that can
carry 400 pounds from the roads. Makes just as much sense.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)iinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel selector/console |
Dave, as I see it unless you mount the selector at the bottom of the
fuselage and have non standard fuel pick ups in the corner of each tank and
then run downwards to the valve with no rises in the line, you will stand
too much chance of the pump sucking air from an empty tank when you select
the BOTH position. I'm sure that is what a previous message was alluding to
when he mentioned not being a high wing aircraft. Use a fuel pressure gauge
and normal valve and monitor your fuel usage. FWIW Regards, Brian in
Albany WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au>
Subject: RV6-List: Fuel selector/console
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave & Lou Tennant"
>
> Thank you to all those who replied to my questions .Specially those who
> had constuctive or factual comments.
> I now have some great ideas for getting rid of the console
> And there does apear to be a number of ways to run off both tanks, one
> using the standard selector with two one way valves,this would give a
> selector which can run left ,both,right,off.
> Now the question is it worth the effort?, probably not for me .I think i
> will just change tanks like i do in my cherokee
>
> Dave T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions |
In Chicago a boat could be quite effective.
KostaLewis wrote:
>
> > On the Chicago Row and Gary WLS radio show this week they were talking
> > about twenty (20) 400 lb. suitcase size atomic bombs that were missing
> > from Russia. I haven't heard anything about this anywhere else so can't
> > comment about the validity but they sounded sure of their information.
> > Something like that could easily be carried in the vast majority of GA
> > aircraft. THe class B restrictions start making more sence when you
> > consider a weapon like this.
>
> Or in a van, or a car, or a truck. So, we should ban all vehicles that can
> carry 400 pounds from the roads. Makes just as much sense.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: [CB-750] OT: A new idea] |
Ernie Hall wrote:
> works for me!
> ===================
> >An article written during the Golf war suggested that airliners carry
> >envelopes of freeze dried powdered pig feces. This could be scattered in
> >the air of the cabin and would result in the immediate transmission of
> >their souls to hell. This could be spread more efficiently than live pigs
> >and at a lower cost. The author also pointed out that our nuclear
> >missiles could have their warheads replaced with this same material.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ernie Hall < LOSTDOG >
> '79 CB750F < STUMPIE >
> Thousand Oaks, CA. USA>
> ---------------------------------
>
> FREE COLLEGE MONEY
> CLICK HERE to search
> 600,000 scholarships!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Pv4pGD/4m7CAA/ySSFAA/3liolB/TM
>
> Subscribe to a FREE magazine that can teach
> you how to earn money from home:
> http://www.freemoneymakingmagazine.com/?a 874
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE from CB-750 send Email to:
> cb-750-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
> Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cb-750
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: [CB-750] OT: A new idea] |
Roy West wrote:
> Kinda a gruesome thought but one strategically placed Nuke and you could have
the worlds biggest Hog wallow , and it would glow in the dark. Guess that's why
we never see anyone with a turban riding a Hog.....:-} Ol'roy
>
> Jeff Wooddell wrote:
>
> > An Israeli friend recently informed me that the UK fought the Islamic terrorist
attacks by burying the criminals with a pig. Apparently the Islamic belief
is that if ones' body is buried with a pig (because they are considered unclean)
their soul will go to hell. I did a little research into this subject matter
and found it to be true. This got me thinking. If we put a baby pig on every
airline flight then all suicide terrorists would abort their missions as they
would not want their souls to go to hell. Additionally, if
> > we drop shipped, oh say, 100,000 pigs into Afghanistan I think our recon and
assault efforts may be more successful. Apparently Muslims dislikes the very
sight of pigs A LOT! They are also adamantly opposed to alcohol, thus we spike
their water supply with a few thousands gallons of scotch, get them shit-faced
and turn the pigs loose. The war would be over in a
> > weekend. Just a thought.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Subscribe to a FREE magazine that can teach
> > you how to earn money from home:
> > http://www.freemoneymakingmagazine.com/?a 874
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE from CB-750 send Email to:
> > cb-750-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
> > Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cb-750
> >
> >
> >
>
> FREE COLLEGE MONEY
> CLICK HERE to search
> 600,000 scholarships!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Pv4pGD/4m7CAA/ySSFAA/3liolB/TM
>
> Subscribe to a FREE magazine that can teach
> you how to earn money from home:
> http://www.freemoneymakingmagazine.com/?a 874
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE from CB-750 send Email to:
> cb-750-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
> Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cb-750
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. MacIntyre" <macintyr(at)vims.edu> |
| Subject: | Terrorist acts, anthrax, Class B restrictions, gepolitics etc. |
The rv-list site was intended to treat the building and flying of Vans
aircraft. It is now subject to many messages far removed from
the technical interests RV builders (at least this RV builder). Please
restrain your political impulses and confine your messages to the subject
of RVs. My DELETE button is wearing out.
Bill MacIntyre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finding Oil leaks was Oil leaks after 25 hours. |
Cy & listers
Cy's suggested method works quite well. One note I'd like to add is that engine
oil does not naturally "fluoresce". You can purchase commercially available
products at your local auto parts stores to do this. These are additive dyes
which you can add to the oil. This is a popular product for autos because often
there are several different fluids leaking (at various rates) from the
powertrain of the vehicle. Adding a fluorescent dye to the oil or fluid leak you
wish to identify allows you to decern one fluid leak from the rest.
Snap On and others supply these lights for big $$$. You can purchase "black
light" fluorescent bulbs to install in widely available flourescent shop lamps
($27 at Sears) for about $12 at lighting specialty stores. You can also find
cheap (under $25) black light lamps at places like Pier 1 Imports and similar
shops.
> I do not know where you leak is but do not mess with the oil pressure.
>
> When finding an oil leak you first have to clean all the oil off the engine.
> Best way is with a solvent-air pressure wash wand. When you have every thing
> clean and dry, spray either the dye-penetrate developer powder or a spray on
> foot powder over the suspected leak. It may be a lot farther way than you
> think. Button the engine up and fly it around the patch. The oil leak will
> show up on the powder. Another way of finding an oil leak is to use a Black
> light as I've been told that oil fluoresces. Good luck.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Oil leaks after 25 hours.
>
>
> I just pulled the cowl after 25 hours to do my first oil change and
> found that oil had been sprayed all over the forward right side of my
> cowl. From the distribution of the spray it appears to be coming
> from the lower junction where the number one cylinder meets the crank
> case. It's not a safety of flight issue since the quantity of oil is
> pretty small but it still has me concerned.
>
> Have any of you experienced shade tree mechanics encountered this
> before? Is it just a matter of reducing my oil pressure ( runs about
> 86 psi on the high end ) and re-torquing the bolts on the cylinder
> head?
>
> Looking for any advice...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Andrews
> N89JA ( in the shop )
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuse turtle deck |
Hi folks,
I am getting close to riveting on the turtledeck of my -8. Having heard
all the advice, I will try the epoxy/flox method of filling any gaps. I
have two questions for those who have been before me.
1. What do you use to prevent the epoxy from setting on the clecoes and
preventing subsequent removal? Will vascelene or grease do?
2. The skin fits very tightly without the epoxy. Will the epoxy squeeze
out enough to prevent buildup of thickness, and therefore throw all the hole
positions off?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | hole edge distance in rear spar |
I have my wings (RV-6A) mounted for the first time and am trying to set
the wing angle of incidence. The rear spar fits neatly between 2 pieces
of 1/8" steel projecting from the fuselage. The manual cautions me that
when I drill the 5/16 hole thru this assembly for the AN5 bolt, that I
must maintain proper edge distance. Well I know the 2xDiam. rule for
rivet edge distance in thin sheet, but this is 1/8" steel - 4 layers of
it (2 in the fuse, 2 in the wing). Is the edge distance rule the same?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hole edge distance in rear spar |
Tom,
Check again, I think you'll find that it isn't steel but extruded aluminum.
My plans clearly state to maintain a distance of 5/8" from the center of the
hole to all edges on both the rear spar and the fuselage bulkhead. I believe
there was also a somewhat recent plans change in the RVator calling out this
distances.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
In a message dated 10/6/01 1:08:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I have my wings (RV-6A) mounted for the first time and am trying to
> set
> the wing angle of incidence. The rear spar fits neatly between 2 pieces
> of 1/8" steel projecting from the fuselage. The manual cautions me that
> when I drill the 5/16 hole thru this assembly for the AN5 bolt, that I
> must maintain proper edge distance. Well I know the 2xDiam. rule for
> rivet edge distance in thin sheet, but this is 1/8" steel - 4 layers of
> it (2 in the fuse, 2 in the wing). Is the edge distance rule the same?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
> Massey Aircraft Service currently manufactures and sells the Hot Tip wingtips
> for the RV-4 and RV-6.
Does anyone have any information about how these tips compare with the "Sheared
Wing Tips" currently offered by Van's? (as used on the newer models)
See article in First Issue 2001 RVator, page 9.
Thanks
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane3(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse turtle deck |
Before you close that turtle deck on the 8 run your wiring now. Being 6'4'
and 250 lbs it was not fun back there.
Dane Sheahen
RV8a getting real close to the end
I am getting close to riveting on the turtledeck of my -8. Having heard
all the advice, I will try the epoxy/flox method of filling any gaps. I
have two questions for those who have been before me.
1. What do you use to prevent the epoxy from setting on the clecoes and
preventing subsequent removal? Will vascelene or grease do?
2. The skin fits very tightly without the epoxy. Will the epoxy squeeze
out enough to prevent buildup of thickness, and therefore throw all the hole
positions off?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions |
Jim,
What are the symptoms of Anthrax, and if it is contracted, what can be done
about it?
Keith
Denver
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman, MD <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Very Important Information about Class B Restrictions
> however, this 2 doctor household just went to the pharmacy and bought lots
> of pills.... more than you can count.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Tom Ellsberg went down in his modified RV. The paper states that he lost his
nose-cone (I assume they mean his spinner) and he developed a serious
vibration. He made an emergency landing on a rural highway but it appears he
drifted to the shoulder and got one main in the soft stuff and flipped the
plane. He was taken to the hospital and is expected to be released by Friday
night (the accident occurred around 3:40 in the afternoon--pilot sustained
minor injuries) I have a picture I can scan from the paper and post if
anybody's interested.
Greg Tanner
________________________________________________________________________________
see the story and pictures at the link below
http://www.newsdirectory.com/go/?f=&r=or&u=www.bendbulletin.com
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Scott,
From the look of the plane (and according to the article) it's a "One
Design".
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: downed rv
>
> see the story and pictures at the link below
>
> http://www.newsdirectory.com/go/?f=&r=or&u=www.bendbulletin.com
>
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
Hi All,
It appears that Van's "Sheared Wing Tips" are a copy of the "Hot Tips". The
"hot Tips" having been developed in Lancaster, CA. from NASA data. I recall
that Van's Aircraft did some testing on different wingtip designs before they
decided on what they would use on the RV-9/7. This is what I have pieced
together. Anyone know anything different?
I have heard that tuft testing was done by someone other than Van's Aircraft
on the standard RV-4/6 wingtips. They were able to determine that there was
disturbed flow starting near the leading edge of the wingtip. The disturbed
air traveled inboard covering the outboard half of the aileron by the time it
reached the trailing edge.
Tuft testing of the "Hot Tip" indicated that only the outboard corner of the
wingtip had disturbed airflow (about 1 or 2 inches at the trailing edge of
the wingtip only).
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
Are Van's "Sheared Wing Tips" the same NACA 23013.5 airfoil as the RV-4/6?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV (NACA 23012 airfoil, not the same as the RV-4/6 airfoil.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
So how does this affect performance?
----- Original Message ----- > I have heard that tuft testing was done by
someone other than Van's Aircraft
> on the standard RV-4/6 wingtips. They were able to determine that there
was
> disturbed flow starting near the leading edge of the wingtip. The
disturbed
> air traveled inboard covering the outboard half of the aileron by the time
it
> reached the trailing edge.
> Tuft testing of the "Hot Tip" indicated that only the outboard corner of
the
> wingtip had disturbed airflow (about 1 or 2 inches at the trailing edge of
> the wingtip only).
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>see the story and pictures at the link below
>
>http://www.newsdirectory.com/go/?f=&r=or&u=www.bendbulletin.com
>
>scott
>tampa
>
The story says it was a One Design, and the picture looks more like a
One Design than an RV (the HS looks too far forward to be an RV).
According to the FAA registration web site, he has a One Design, and
an RV-4.
Since this isn't an RV accident, it's OK to continue the thread. If
it was actually a thread about RVs, I'd ask you guys to take it to
the Terrorism List, or the Stupid Regulations List.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EL Cockpit Lighting |
What Honda lights did you use?
joe wiza wrote:
>
>
> I bought a couple of led Honda motorcycle brake lights
> about 4"long 1/2 wide by 1/2" deep, installed under
> the glare shield about 2 foot apart Does a fine job.
> Joe
> RV6A
> --- John Lawson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Rick: I tried the fiberlite.com web site, and
> > got...ladders. Tried www.fiberlight.com and got
> > "Your request is missing the following information:
> > No Search Domain Name." ?
> >
> > Semper Fi
> > John
> > RV-6 (left wing in jig, temporarily orphaned because
> > of work...)
> >
> >
> > >
> > > From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: EL Cockpit Lighting
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > FWIW, you might look at the Fiberlite system . . .
> > www.fiberlite.com or
> > > Aircraft Spruce. I haven't powered mine up yet,
> > but installation has been
> > > quite easy and one bulb lights the entire panel.
> > > Rick Jory RV8A
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Stucklen, Frederic IFC <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: EL Cockpit Lighting
> > >
> > Frederic IFC"
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Mark,
> > > >
> > > > I tried this type of product in my IFR RV-6A,
> > after seeing it at Sun 'N
> > > > Fun a couple of years ago. I found that, even
> > with additional power supply
> > > > filtering, the AC noise effected my radios. I
> > didn't investigate any
> > > > further, but felt that the IFR operation
> > warranted the more common
> > > lighting
> > > > solutions......
> > > >
> > > > Fred Stucklen
> > > > N925RV (1840 hrs/8 Yrs)
> > > > E. Windsor, CT 06088
> > > > WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
> > > > Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
> > > >
> > > > Subject: AeroElectric-List: EL Cockpit
> > Lighting
> > > > Message-ID:
> > <20010924.203755.-263081.0.czechsix(at)juno.com>
> > > > From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> > > >
> > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
> > czechsix(at)juno.com
> > > >
> > > > Bob (or anyone else who wants to jump
> > in),
> > > >
> > > > I am considering using
> > electroluminescent lighting in my RV-8A
> > > > cockpit.
> > > > Specifically, there's a brand-name
> > called "Flatlite" that can be
> > > > obtained
> > > > in almost any shape or size, and all the
> > colors of the rainbow.
> > > The
> > > > distributor I've been talking to is at
> > > >
> > http://beingseentechnologies.goemerchant2.com. My
> > intent is to
> > > get
> > > > a 2"
> > > > x 24" strip (blue, green, or
> > white.....haven't decided which color
> > > > yet)
> > > > and stick it to the underside of my
> > glareshield. It won't be
> > > > directly
> > > > visible when seated in the cockpit, but
> > it will cast a soft glow
> > > > down on
> > > > the panel. This seems to be an ideal
> > way to light the panel with
> > > a
> > > > minimum of glare on the panel or canopy.
> > The product is dimmable
> > > by
> > > > varying the input voltage from 12 VDC
> > down to 7 VDC (after which
> > > it
> > > > shuts
> > > > off).
> > > >
> > > > Now for my question: the Flatlite kit
> > uses an inverter which
> > > takes
> > > > in
> > > > the aformentioned DC and converts it to
> > 280 VAC at 850 Hz. Do you
> > > > think
> > > > that this could cause noise or
> > interference problems with the
> > > audio,
> > > > or
> > > > any other system? The tech rep I talked
> > to did not think it would
> > > > be an
> > > > issue if grounded correctly at the
> > firewall, based on experience
> > > > with
> > > > cars and boats.
> > > >
> > > > Any other input on this
> > subject.....anyone who's tried it....any
> > > > problems
> > > > or gotchas.....speak up before I send my
> > $65.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > --Mark Navratil
> > > > Cedar Rapids, IA
> > > > RV-8A fuselage...
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribe
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Terrorism "what if's" Delete if not interested |
In a message dated 10/6/01 1:15:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mgelber(at)pacbell.net writes:
> . I think I could hijack a plane or
> take out a bridge tomorrow and they couldn't prevent it.
Folks
On the news, I've seen pictures of some possible "targets" that the
government is concerned about, such as hydroelectric dams(like Grand Coulee,
Hoover, etc.) and power plants. I wonder just how much it would take to open
up one of those dams?
I would think it would take "alot". I do not think flying a large aircraft
into one would do it. I think it would take what they call "shaped charges".
At any rate, they do not want us to loiter over the top of these areas. do
not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
Hi,
Due to a new project I have; buying a house=85I must sale my tools and
Rv7a empennage.
Any one interested..? please contact me off line and I can send a tool
list
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx
Daniel Estrada
Mexico City
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Blues |
In a message dated 10/5/2001 9:47:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> What's going on?
> Do I need a new regulator?
>
>
Norman, Usually it`s a bit of dirt under the valve seat. take it apart
clean it, and re-assemble. I`ve done several that way.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hole edge distance in rear spar |
Rick:
You and all the others are certainly right. I thought it was steel
because when I trimmed it a bit with the hack saw it seemed awfully hard
for aluminum. I guess it's just a real hard alloy.
My horizonatl edge distance is going to be close. The forward piece
from the fuselage is hitting the flange of the end rib on the forward
side of the rear spar, but I don't want to shorten anything any
further. I think I'll hold off any further work on this area until I
can talk to somebody at Vans an Monday.
--
Tom Sargent
RICKRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Tom,
>
> Check again, I think you'll find that it isn't steel but extruded aluminum.
> My plans clearly state to maintain a distance of 5/8" from the center of the
> hole to all edges on both the rear spar and the fuselage bulkhead. I believe
> there was also a somewhat recent plans change in the RVator calling out this
> distances.
>
> Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
Hello,
I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
fuselage back on it later.
As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
Thanks and regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
Vince-
I threw the jig away early like you are contemplating. Worked out OK... I
had to do the bottom front skin and ribs while crouching/groveling (I had no
way to rotate it upside down again) but it wasn't too bad.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent S. Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig?
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vincent S. Himsl"
Hello,
I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
fuselage back on it later.
As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
Thanks and regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 50 Msgs - 09/25/01 |
with my -4 and after washing the lower engine down and test flying it around
the patch discovered that the oil was coming from the cylinder base where it
enters into the case. They have an O-ring on the cyl.base sleeve that can and
does leak. You,ll have to pull the cylinder (not a bad job) and replace the
O-ring. Also the four large cyl. bolts where they exit the case are a source
of oil leaks as well and a bead of silicone around the area where the threads
pass thru the case should seal those. DON,T mess with the oil pressure !!.
This has nothing to do with your leaks. Hope this helps.
George Spring RV-4 4375J Chester , Conn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
I got rid of mine right away too and used a couple saw horses to hold it up
when I was doing the front bottom skin, gear weldment, and painting of the
interior...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/fusepj/fusepj5.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
mgelber(at)pacbell.net
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig?
Vince-
I threw the jig away early like you are contemplating. Worked out OK... I
had to do the bottom front skin and ribs while crouching/groveling (I had no
way to rotate it upside down again) but it wasn't too bad.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent S. Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig?
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vincent S. Himsl"
Hello,
I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
fuselage back on it later.
As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
Thanks and regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | hole edge distance in rear spar |
I also found that when the wings were inserted the rear spar
attach bars from the fuse hit the first rib flange. Before trimming,
drop a plumb line from the leading edge of the wing at several points on
both wings making marks on the floor then snap a straight line across
them all on the floor. It will become very apparent how much forward
sweep the wings have. Mine was about an inch or so. I ended up removing
about 3/16"-1/4" from the fuse attach bars. (someone at vans told me
this was common to do) (don't touch the rear wing spar).
Then when your happy with that you must measure from the wingtip
to a point in the rear to assure that both wings are the same distance
from your point.
My real problem was with vertical edge hole distance on the rear
spar attach. With the fuse level and the proper spacer used with an
electronic level, I was at min edge distance. I was told that it
wouldn't be a problem to increase the angle of incidence a tad to be
more comfortable with the rear spar bolt edge distance. The only other
consideration is whatever you add to the main you also would have to add
to the rear stab. I didn't adjust the rear stab at first and flew. The
only noticeable difference was a slight down elevator at cruise. After
shimming up the rear stab the elevator is perfectly in trail. (also my
rear fairing magically fit better)
Steve DiNieri
Hindsight is 20/20
N221RV
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
You and all the others are certainly right. I thought it was
steel
because when I trimmed it a bit with the hack saw it seemed awfully hard
for aluminum. I guess it's just a real hard alloy.
My horizonatl edge distance is going to be close. The forward
piece
from the fuselage is hitting the flange of the end rib on the forward
side of the rear spar, but I don't want to shorten anything any
further. I think I'll hold off any further work on this area until I
can talk to somebody at Vans an Monday.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
Vince
After I removed the fuse from the jig, I cut the legs way down and
remounted the fuse right side up in it. build a small H frame to keep
the tail side up. This way I could keep the fuse level in all directions
over an extended period of time. Matter of fact, I put wheels under it
so i could move the fuse around in the garage. To the center for wing
mounting, to the side for car repair etc.
I am very pleased I did this. I did not like the idea of having the fuse
sit on saw horses. having it level in a sturdy jig also eliminates a lot
of re measuring when you (think) you bumped the fuse.
I had the fuse mounted from the spar stubs, but now that I am fitting
the wings, I reattached them to the firewall uprights.
Just a thought, of course I am considered a slow builder and not a trail
blazer. so having the fuse mounted properly was important for me.
Gert
"Vincent S. Himsl" wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
> called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
> fuselage back on it later.
>
> As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
> elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
>
> Thanks and regards
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 Fuselage
> Moscow, ID USA
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary & Sandi" <flying(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/06/01 |
I was really surprized there wasn't a bunch of flac on this one from the
list members. People are quick to say 'no car parts!', but no one has
mentioned that running off both tanks has been proven to be a very bad
thing in many low wing airplanes, and specifically RV's. When you talk
of using Cessna fuel valve, notice that Cessnas are high-wing airplanes.
I thought about this possibility myself, until I read the "18 Years of
the RV-Ator. There are a couple of artilces in there about this very
thing. In one, dated 8/95, a fellow used a fuel valve from a Cessna
single in his RV. He found that when running in the "Both" position,
the right tank dropped more quickly than normal, and the left tank
continued to indicate full. In a short time, the right tank was empty,
and fuel was streaming from the left fuel cap.
They discovered that in the Both position, the fuel was transfering from
the right thank to the left, and flowing overboard. When the fuel was
less than half gone, the engine would quit.
There is another article right next to this one which describes an
accident in a Lancair due to similar circumstances. The article states,
regarding Van's fuel system; "It is difficult to se what improvements
builders could expect from modifying their fuel system. As designed, it
is simple, inexpensive, and has almost no unuseable fuel. All the pilot
has to do is put gas in the tanks and remember to turn a lever now and
then."..................."More airplanes come to grief through fuel
system problems than any other mechanical cause."
Gary, RV-9A project
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave & Lou Tennant"
>
> Thank you to all those who replied to my questions .Specially those
who
> had constuctive or factual comments.
> I now have some great ideas for getting rid of the console
> And there does apear to be a number of ways to run off both tanks,
one
> using the standard selector with two one way valves,this would give
a
> selector which can run left ,both,right,off.
> Now the question is it worth the effort?, probably not for me .I
think i
> will just change tanks like i do in my cherokee
>
> Dave T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Bumper Sticker for the Month of Oct. 2001
Kabul? Cobble!, or
Kabul? Rabbul!
W
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Need USB Software For Garmin StreetPilot III... |
Hi Listers,
Just reinstalled my desktop systems OS and now I can't access the USB
memory chip programmer for the Street Pilot III (Just like the airplane
version). I've reinstalled all of the mapping software and utility, but
still no driver for the USB. The Garmin website has an "Update" for the
USB programmer but it won't install until the "real" version has been
install - catch 22, aye?
If anyone has the install disk for the USB programmer and could email me
the software, I would really appreciate it. I don't remember what media
this software came on - CDROM, floppy, etc - I don't even remember
installing it.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-4 N442RV
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | mild steel stacks... |
Hi all...
I am looking for some mild steel exhaust stacks for my O320. They don't
need to be very long, just enough for me to use in making my exhaust
system... I can either buy them outright, or I have some stainless stacks
to trade or for sale...
Here's a pic of my SS stacks: http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/engine10.jpg
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | instrument lighting |
Has anyone used the Nulite system for their instruments?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Holes in Canopy) |
> Look for a product called Lexol. Its a clear paintable (non-silicon)
> sealant. Works great. I also used it on the threads of the #6 screws.
I think he means Lexel. Most H/W stores carry it. I used it on my canopy and
recommend it. Though I didn't run a "bead", just put it between the fairings
and plexi when I riveted, and cleaned off whatever squeezed out with Naptha.
Check the archives for more on this.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument lighting |
Yes. They suck. Not very bright, and not even light.
The UMA electroluminescent lights are much better. You can see them at:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: instrument lighting
Has anyone used the Nulite system for their instruments?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/07/01 |
I'm just getting started and I'm looking for some advise on priming. Zinc
chromate? or is something else better. Should I get in in a spray can, or
paint it on, or use the sprayer on my air compressor? Thanks
Jim Aylward
Westfield MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Compressor Blues |
Listers,
After 10 years of use, my 20 gal Compressor tank has sprung a leak. Seems
that the lower drain doesn't totally allow all the condensation to escape,
and it rusted out.
Does anybody have a good source for a new tank? The original was bought
from Sears (before they went to oil-less systems).
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1740 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compressor Blues
Norman;
The problem is caused by a leak past the pressure reducing valve in
the
regulator. A leak here is caused normally by one of two things:
(1) There may be a speck of dirt on the seat of the valve preventing
it from
sealing completely
(2) The seat or seal which contacts it my be worn from age
In either case dismantling the regulator and rebuilding it should
solve the
problem.
Your solution of simply replacing it, however, may be a more time
economical
answer. A new regulator should cost in the neighbourhood of $50 to
$75 CDN
from any good industrial supply house.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: instrument lighting |
Dave,
I was planning to use the Nulite, but my instrument spacing in the RV8 panel
is too close and the additional space around the instruments required by the
Nulites just isn't there.
So... if you do plan to use them, and they do work well, I have 6, brand new
Nulites for the primary flight instruments (AS, AI, DG, ALT, VSI, & TC) that
I'll sell you for a great deal.
Contact me off list.
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
rv8don(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Email address change |
Good morning friends,
Please note my new email address is jack(at)IaJobs.com
Old address pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com will be valid through end of month
Jack
RV8, wings
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCOPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
Jack(at)IaJobs.com
IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mild steel stacks... |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Hi all...
>
> I am looking for some mild steel exhaust stacks for my O320. They don't
> need to be very long, just enough for me to use in making my exhaust
> system... I can either buy them outright, or I have some stainless stacks
> to trade or for sale...
>
> Here's a pic of my SS stacks: http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/engine10.jpg
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
Try the Vari-eze/Long-eze guys. The common exhaust was (is?)
a flange with a short stub of stack & eyelets welded to the
flange. A longer piece of straight stack was slipped over
the stub & springs hooked from the straight stack to the
flange to hold the stack in place.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hi frequency vibration in my -4 |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/08/2001 09:34:22 AM
Hi Listers,
I need some help. I have a high frequency vibration in my -4 that I have
been unable to identify or eliminate. I would appreciate any help you
builders/flyers may be able to offer. Here are my observations:
- The vibration can be heard, but not specifically felt. It sounds like
a bee trapped in a coffee can.
- It appears to be coming from the tail cone
- The vibration never occurs when I fly solo. It usually occurs when I
have a back seat passenger
- The frequency of the vibration does not appear to change with airspeed
or rpm changes, although changing one or the other can eliminate or
initiate the noise.
- Sometimes, the buzzing is loud enough to break squelch on the headset
- There is no change in vibration (that I can detect by feel) in the
stick during the buzzing.
- I initially felt the vibration was caused by "oil canning" of the
baggage compartment sheet metal. During the test flight phase, this sheet
metal was clecoed in place to allow for easily inspections. After the
vibration was noticed during the first flight with a passenger, I riveted
the sheetmetal in place after attaching noise attenuating foam to the
underside. This has made no difference.
- I cannot see any signs of flutter in the ailerons or elevator horns.
That's as far aft as I can see from the from seat.
These are my observations to date. I will make additional flights with the
following configurations:
- Currently, I have no empennage fairing on the underside of the
horizontal stabilizer. I don't see how this could impact the situation,
but, I will install these and make a test flight.
- The ELT is attached to the "upper shelf" of the baggage compartment
(above the bellcrank for the elevator). It might resonate on the
sheetmetal (but I doubt it). Nonetheless, I will remove the ELT and
make a test flight.
I'm stumped. Have any of you had similar vibration problems?
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
in the paint shop
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
Tracy Saylor replaced the standard RV wingtips with "Hot Tips". He saw a two
mph increase in top speed, and a three mph decrease in stall speed.
He didn't test for any improvement in roll rate at low speed. He said
something about not normally flying near the stall speed range. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Holes in Canopy) |
In a message dated 10/7/01 8:15:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< I think he means Lexel. Most H/W stores carry it. I used it on my canopy
and
recommend it. Though I didn't run a "bead", just put it between the fairings
and plexi when I riveted, and cleaned off whatever squeezed out with Naptha.
>>
I think he means naphtha. Sorry, couldn't resist ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Hi frequency vibration in my -4 |
Do you have electric trim?... the wire might be vibrating...
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hi frequency vibration in my -4
>
> - Currently, I have no empennage fairing on the underside of the
> horizontal stabilizer. I don't see how this could impact the situation,
> but, I will install these and make a test flight.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <emmanuelle.j.richard(at)boeing.com> |
| Subject: | another RV4 in the air |
N99747 flew last Saturday!!! Only a few minor write ups and heavy right
wing to address.
Thanks to all who have provided advice (and moral support)during the
building time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net> |
I had the same question (as did everybody). It looks like the standard
is Veri-Prime, although some swear by other products. One thing about
this product is that it doesn't need to be as heavily applied as the
coats of zinc chromate that you're accostomed to seeing. Also, with so
many products out today, it's important that you get a good respirator
that's really designed for just that sort of thing. Ask the person you
buy the product from which one he recommends. Don't skimp on this item-
you'll be glad you didn't later. Also, be sure and use latex gloves and
full eye protection- not just safety glasses.
Happy priming!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hi frequency vibration in my -4 |
i had the same thing on my -6, it turned out to be canopy seal. the
vibration was caused by air sucked thru the canopy skirt gap into the
cockpit..i used V-Seal weather strip to fix this (and get rid of the cold
air...). $1.95 at Home Depot..
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hi frequency vibration in my -4
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I need some help. I have a high frequency vibration in my -4 that I have
> been unable to identify or eliminate. I would appreciate any help you
> builders/flyers may be able to offer. Here are my observations:
>
> - The vibration can be heard, but not specifically felt. It sounds
like
> a bee trapped in a coffee can.
> - It appears to be coming from the tail cone
> - The vibration never occurs when I fly solo. It usually occurs when I
> have a back seat passenger
> - The frequency of the vibration does not appear to change with
airspeed
> or rpm changes, although changing one or the other can eliminate or
> initiate the noise.
> - Sometimes, the buzzing is loud enough to break squelch on the headset
> - There is no change in vibration (that I can detect by feel) in the
> stick during the buzzing.
> - I initially felt the vibration was caused by "oil canning" of the
> baggage compartment sheet metal. During the test flight phase, this sheet
> metal was clecoed in place to allow for easily inspections. After
the
> vibration was noticed during the first flight with a passenger, I riveted
> the sheetmetal in place after attaching noise attenuating foam to the
> underside. This has made no difference.
> - I cannot see any signs of flutter in the ailerons or elevator horns.
> That's as far aft as I can see from the from seat.
>
> These are my observations to date. I will make additional flights with
the
> following configurations:
>
> - Currently, I have no empennage fairing on the underside of the
> horizontal stabilizer. I don't see how this could impact the situation,
> but, I will install these and make a test flight.
>
> - The ELT is attached to the "upper shelf" of the baggage compartment
> (above the bellcrank for the elevator). It might resonate on the
> sheetmetal (but I doubt it). Nonetheless, I will remove the ELT and
> make a test flight.
>
> I'm stumped. Have any of you had similar vibration problems?
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
> in the paint shop
>
> **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
> confidential business information. It may not be copied
> without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please contact the sender as soon as possible and
> delete the material from any computer.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Hot Tip wingtips |
I should have mentioned, John Harmon reports a 10 mph increase on the HR2
with the "Hot Tips".
John changed between the standard wingtips and the "hot Tips" a couple of
times. So the 10 mph speed change was repeated for an independent observer.
It appears that results vary based on how disturbed the airflow is from the
standard wingtip installation.
A side observation, Tracy Saylor aerodynamically seals all of the surface
joints, like the joint between the wing skin and wingtip. I don't believe
John Harmon seals the surface joints.
In a message dated 10/08/2001 6:43:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Tracy Saylor replaced the standard RV wingtips with "Hot Tips". He saw a
> two
> mph increase in top speed, and a three mph decrease in stall speed.
> He didn't test for any improvement in roll rate at low speed. He said
> something about not normally flying near the stall speed range. :-)
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
| Subject: | VS / Fiberglass Fairing Attachment Points |
I am preparing to rivet my RV 7, VS together. I will leave out the six
rivets (each side) that are called for along the lower rib for future,
fiberglass fairing attachment. However, in my hasty dimpling frenzee, I
dimpled all of these holes. The future attachment of the VS to the fairing
will use K1000-6 plate nuts with 6/32 size screws. I wonder if I should
flatten these dimples before I put the VS together or leave as is? Any
thoughts or suggestions? Looks like the hole that goes through the rear
spar might be tight once the rear spar is assembled (with doubler in
place).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Empennage Fairing....again |
----- Original Message -----
From: Austin Tinckle <atinckle(at)dccnet.com>
Subject: Empennage Fairing....again
> Listers,
> I would like to poll the audience on this question.
> I made up the single ply mold/template for the emp. fairing, and it fits
> very well, but is very floppy.
> I want to lay up the 4 layers of cloth to get the final product.
> Should I get 4 layers sandwiched all together on the bench and wetted out
> with a roller and then a layer of peel ply and then apply the whole mess
> onto the fairing mold at once ?
> Otherwise, the flimsy mold/template will not likely tolerate and
> pressure by pushing a roller on it each time I add a layer ????
> Mr. Skinner, Sobek, Owens..Besing, Henson et al , are you out there ?
> I have never used peel ply nor seen it used.
> Does one just cut out as big a one-piece layer of it and smooth it into
the
> final layup layer ?
> I realize the trick is also to get the weave to round the corner on the
fin
> leading edge....
> Any comments ?
> Thanks in advance,
> Austin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Priming |
From http://www.ontariorvators.org, see
http://pub.alxnet.com/poll?id=2123902&q=view for the current results of
the question "What type of primer did you use/are you primarily using
during building? (not external)"
Phil
> I had the same question (as did everybody). It looks like the standard
> is Veri-Prime, although some swear by other products. One thing about
> this product is that it doesn't need to be as heavily applied as the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hi frequency vibration in my -4 |
The lack of empennage fairings on the underside of the horizontal stabilizer
may aggravate this condition as it will increase the pressure drop across
the canopy skirt (you are sucking more air out of the cockpit).
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (moving to the hanger next month)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hi frequency vibration in my -4
>
> i had the same thing on my -6, it turned out to be canopy seal. the
> vibration was caused by air sucked thru the canopy skirt gap into the
> cockpit..i used V-Seal weather strip to fix this (and get rid of the cold
> air...). $1.95 at Home Depot..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Hi frequency vibration in my -4
>
>
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > I need some help. I have a high frequency vibration in my -4 that I
have
> > been unable to identify or eliminate. I would appreciate any help you
> > builders/flyers may be able to offer. Here are my observations:
> >
> > - The vibration can be heard, but not specifically felt. It sounds
> like
> > a bee trapped in a coffee can.
> > - It appears to be coming from the tail cone
> > - The vibration never occurs when I fly solo. It usually occurs when
I
> > have a back seat passenger
> > - The frequency of the vibration does not appear to change with
> airspeed
> > or rpm changes, although changing one or the other can eliminate or
> > initiate the noise.
> > - Sometimes, the buzzing is loud enough to break squelch on the
headset
> > - There is no change in vibration (that I can detect by feel) in the
> > stick during the buzzing.
> > - I initially felt the vibration was caused by "oil canning" of the
> > baggage compartment sheet metal. During the test flight phase, this
sheet
> > metal was clecoed in place to allow for easily inspections. After
> the
> > vibration was noticed during the first flight with a passenger, I
riveted
> > the sheetmetal in place after attaching noise attenuating foam to the
> > underside. This has made no difference.
> > - I cannot see any signs of flutter in the ailerons or elevator
horns.
> > That's as far aft as I can see from the from seat.
> >
> > These are my observations to date. I will make additional flights with
> the
> > following configurations:
> >
> > - Currently, I have no empennage fairing on the underside of the
> > horizontal stabilizer. I don't see how this could impact the situation,
> > but, I will install these and make a test flight.
> >
> > - The ELT is attached to the "upper shelf" of the baggage compartment
> > (above the bellcrank for the elevator). It might resonate on the
> > sheetmetal (but I doubt it). Nonetheless, I will remove the ELT
and
> > make a test flight.
> >
> > I'm stumped. Have any of you had similar vibration problems?
> >
> > Dean Pichon
> > RV-4
> > Arlington, MA
> > in the paint shop
> >
> > **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
> > confidential business information. It may not be copied
> > without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
> > please contact the sender as soon as possible and
> > delete the material from any computer.****
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Empennage Fairing....again |
Austin,
I also used the thin skin method you're doing. I justed brushed on epoxy
onto the thin shell. (After it was taped on the plane and masked
appropriately.) I then laid one piece of 5.7 oz. fiberglass cloth on one
side that wrapped around the front a few inches. (Cut on the 45 to the
weave to allow it to lay in the curves.) Then the other side same way. It's
easier dealing with smaller pieces than one large one. Brush on more resin
to wet the cloth. I then put 2 layers 1" wide strips around the perimeter to
build it up. Then I put more cloth over the whole thing as described above
until I had three layers plus the shell. Then I laid a very lightweight
model airplane type cloth over the whole thing. This soaked up the excess
resin and covers the larger weave (pinhole makers.) The front nose then had
6+ layers due to the overlap and the edges were thickened. When I was done,
I mixed up some microlight filler in the epoxy and brushed that on. I
didn't use peel ply but I guess you could get small strips to lay down on
the curves. After a while when it got to the rubber stage, I trimmed the
edge along the electrical tape outline with a razor blade. Next day I
pulled it off and sanded it with my finishing sander and brushed on more
filler. Then carefully sanded the next day paying attention that I didn't
sand through the filler and expose the pinholes. Now it's ready to prime.
Mine came out 1 lb. lighter than Van's.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL Fairings still on after 265 hrs.
>From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Fw: Empennage Fairing....again
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 1980 01:52:14 -0800
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Austin Tinckle <atinckle(at)dccnet.com>
>To: rv-list rv-list
>Subject: Empennage Fairing....again
>
>
> > Listers,
> > I would like to poll the audience on this question.
> > I made up the single ply mold/template for the emp. fairing, and it fits
> > very well, but is very floppy.
> > I want to lay up the 4 layers of cloth to get the final product.
> > Should I get 4 layers sandwiched all together on the bench and wetted
>out
> > with a roller and then a layer of peel ply and then apply the whole mess
> > onto the fairing mold at once ?
> > Otherwise, the flimsy mold/template will not likely tolerate and
> > pressure by pushing a roller on it each time I add a layer ????
> > Mr. Skinner, Sobek, Owens..Besing, Henson et al , are you out there ?
> > I have never used peel ply nor seen it used.
> > Does one just cut out as big a one-piece layer of it and smooth it into
>the
> > final layup layer ?
> > I realize the trick is also to get the weave to round the corner on the
>fin
> > leading edge....
> > Any comments ?
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Austin.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich pitch? |
Greetings,
I was wondering what pitch everyone is using on their O-360 powered -8's.
When I first ordered my prop, 83" was the recommendation. By the time it
was ready to be produced, 85" was what I got. After a year of flying the
85", and especially following the installation of an Ellison TBI and
LightSpeed ignition, I've found the 85" to be underpitched. Currently, I
can lean to a max RPM of 2720 at 12,500, so it's time to let Sensenich twist
it some more. I'll be getting repitched to an 87" next week. Anybody else
flying anything over an 85"?
Also, is anyone else going to Tracy Crook's Shady Bend fly-in later this
month? The other local RV-8 (Bob Hargrave) and I will be flying over on Sat
the 27th. Bob will be the one that looks depressed because I'm going to
outrun his expensive constant speed prop on the way over :-)
Fly-in info: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/invitation.html
Note- I don't believe they can accommodate the general flying population at
this strip due to parking limitations. The invitation is for RV's and
rotary powered aircraft. See the web site for details.
Russell Duffy
N174KT, 80587, 75 hours
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Holes in Canopy) |
Correct. Thanks. It also cleans up easily with common paint thinner
(mineral spirits).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers,
This weekend I started a 100 hr maintenance check on my 6A. On checking the
magneto timing, I discovered that both mags had drifted out about 5 degrees, so
they were firing at 30 BTDC instead of 25. This was the first time I had
checked the timing in 291 hrs since the new engine installation - should have
done it earlier, but I now have that item on my 100hr checklist.
OK, so no problem bumping the mags back into position. But now the impulse
coupler on the right mag fires at about 5 degrees after TDC instead of at TDC.
Is this likely to be a problem when starting? Is there an independent external
adjustment?
I've just ordered "The Magneto Ignition System" by John Schwaner, & hope to get
further answers from that.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | .090 Instrument Panel |
Paul,
How did your .090 instrument panel work out? I would also like to eliminate
the angle at the top of the panel of my 6A.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto timing |
Have you checked the point gap? This effects timing. I don't remember the
stats but every thousandth the points are off makes a certain timing degree
change.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Magneto timing
Listers,
This weekend I started a 100 hr maintenance check on my 6A. On checking the
magneto timing, I discovered that both mags had drifted out about 5 degrees,
so
they were firing at 30 BTDC instead of 25. This was the first time I had
checked the timing in 291 hrs since the new engine installation - should
have
done it earlier, but I now have that item on my 100hr checklist.
OK, so no problem bumping the mags back into position. But now the impulse
coupler on the right mag fires at about 5 degrees after TDC instead of at
TDC.
Is this likely to be a problem when starting? Is there an independent
external
adjustment?
I've just ordered "The Magneto Ignition System" by John Schwaner, & hope to
get
further answers from that.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conditional Inspection |
Eric--
I've been gone for a bit--successfully hunting for some "shine" up in
the Gatlinburg, TN area. I avoid the town and stay with some locals "up
the mountain"--real banjo pickin' country. Good place for a fly in.
Flew in there last fall when they were hosting some Warbirds for a
festival. Gatlinburg advised "local traffic and others..."--entered the
downwind and there was a B-25 closing FAST on my tail--weirdest pattern
I ever flew!--called the run and hide variation.
Anyway, did you get your info?
Boyd.
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> Can anyone point me to the web site that has the annual/conditional
> inspection checklist for an RV-6?
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | re: OPT-1 Question/Problem (?) Long |
This is a follow up to my posting on this subject several weeks ago
regarding high oil temperature readings.
My work with Electronics International (EI) regarding accuracy of their
OPT-1 oil temp/pressure digital meter was useful. They re-checked
calibration of the instrument and supplied new sensor and thermocouple wire.
Neither were of any help. My oil temp was still reading too high.
Here are things I did...
1. Added a "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney to oil filter. Reduced oil temp
about 10 or slightly more degrees.
2. Fabricated a cowl flap about 5 x 6 below the oil cooler. No help.
3. Removed 7-row oil cooler, installed new Aero Classic 9-row cooler. No
help.
4. Moved some ignition wires in front of SCAT tube opening in baffles to
remove any turbulence in the air flow leading to the oil cooler. No help.
5. Tried an extra quart of oil in the sump...no help..went on the belly.
6. Checked hoses to oil cooler for 'rubber flaps' - none.
7. Checked Vernatherm - operation was within Lycoming specs.
8. Verified that no "plug" was in the other opening at the oil filter
adapter.
9. Improved every little bit of baffle I could to insure maximum cooling
air. No help.
10. Read in Sky Ranch engine book that my Lycoming O-320 160 HP is actually
a 8.5:1 compression ration, not a 9:1 as I had supposed. That led me to
re-read Light Speed Engineering's instructions on my two separate LSE
electronic ignition systems...the timing was set at 5-degrees ATDC, and it
should have been set at TDC. Changed it to TDC.
11. I insulated the thermocouple wires from the oil temperature sensor to
the firewall. (EI suggested having the thermocouple wires in the steam from
a pot of boiling water while checking the accuracy of the unit may give a
false reading, so I wondered if the engine heat might do the same thing.)
12. I removed the cabin hot air from the heat muff that was being 'dumped'
above and outboard of the oil cooler..blocked off the input to the heat muff
so hot air wasn't being dumped into the engine area.
Results of #10, 11, and 12: I was getting 205-degree oil temp after a
sharp climb to 10,000 and staying there for about 15 minutes. Now temps
SLOWLY come up to a MAXIMUM of 184-degrees (F), just about exactly what
the Vernatherm would call for. Also my CHT came down from a typical
410-degrees to 366-degrees, and oil pressure in cruise flight went up from
72 PSI to 77 PSI, something you would expect with reduced oil temps.
I will incrementally remove item 11 to see how much that contributed to oil
temp reduction, then item 12. (I may install a SCAT tube from the discharge
port of the cabin heat selector box and route it down to the air exit area
just as a precaution.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring |
Can someone clear up the pin (wiring) configuration associated with the
90-degree electrical connection associated with the VM-1000 pressure
sensors (the Hirschmann connector)? Section 4, page 63 of the manual
shows the "connector plug pinout - top" . . . but there doesn't seem to
be a reference to which pin is actually "pin 1"?? If one removes the
top of the connector and looks at the connector pins on the side of the
connector that the transducer is on, one can see that this connector is
"keyed". One side of the rectangle has a square "male", the other three
sides have semi-circular "males". The mating piece (the 90-degree
portion) has the associated female slots (i.e. one square and the other
three are half-circles). So . . . relative to the "square", what is pin
one?? Thanks in advance.
Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Central Aviation |
Fellow Listers:
Is anyone familiar with the paint work of Central Aviation in Watertown,
Wisconsin? They have done several RVs in the past and I am hoping to run
across someone who can attest to their workmanship.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Central Aviation |
Is that the outfit that paints the EAA planes?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: Central Aviation
Fellow Listers:
Is anyone familiar with the paint work of Central Aviation in Watertown,
Wisconsin? They have done several RVs in the past and I am hoping to run
across someone who can attest to their workmanship.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
Russel
I have a 83 Sensenich on my O360 RV-8. The engine has higher compression
pistons and fuel injection etc. so that it produces about 200 horse power. I
can get about 2200 rpm static and I have to pull it back about an inch at
cruise to keep the rpm under redline. I am thinking about a repitch to 85 or
more and would like to know how it works for you. Could you please email me
after you have that done and let me know your results? Also what kind of
static rpm are you getting now with your 85? Do you need to pull it back at
cruise?
Does Sensenich say they can repitch the prop and does it then become
uncertified?
Thanx for the info
Chris Hukill
Helifoto(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Central Aviation |
Doug,
FWIW, I haven't had any first-hand experiences with Central Aviation,
but I have heard "through the grapevine" that they do good work. You
probably should still look for someone with personal experience with
them to satisfy yourself before plunking down your money.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler [mailto:doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com]
Subject: RV-List: Central Aviation
Fellow Listers:
Is anyone familiar with the paint work of Central Aviation in Watertown,
Wisconsin? They have done several RVs in the past and I am hoping to
run
across someone who can attest to their workmanship.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brown" <michael.brown(at)pepperweed.com> |
| Subject: | Installing IFR NAV radios |
I've done some research but I'm still a bit confused. I'm buying an
already completed RV6 that is ready to go for IFR except for two things:
1. No IFR NAV radios
2. No Pitot/Static Cert
So I'm planning a trip to the Avionics shop to get the pitot/static test
done. That will be a piece of cake. The problem is with the NAV radios.
I have everything picked out that I want to put in - mainly a GNS430 and
a Century HSI. I'm confused as to what paperwork (if any) or approval by
the FSDO (if any) has to be done.
I'm going to do the install myself. I'll update the equipment list and
the weight and balance. Other than that, does the FSDO have to approve
the installation? I mean, there isn't a F337, right?
Michael Brown
Soon to be owner.N417G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
I do believe that the 72FM prop has never been type certified.
>
> Does Sensenich say they can repitch the prop and does it then become
> uncertified?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
Hi,
My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
WARNING
THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
REGULATIONS FOR
STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel has
to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
in AvantGarde MdBT font.
It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
painting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gene(at)nvaircraft.com |
| Subject: | Compressor Blues |
I have a 15 year old Wards compressor and with all this talk of failures I checked
into a new tank. They quoted me 175.00 for one "almost like mine" plus shipping.
They also said some "modifications" may have to be made. So I would
have a new tank with an old motor and compressor. Not very cost efficient !
My choice is to get a new compressor.
Gene 90296 finishing up fuse
Download NeoPlanet at http://www.neoplanet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
glen
Vans sells a sticker with that warning on it. it is just the right size to
stick on that angled channel that the panel sits on. its black back ground
with gold letters. looks good and is only a couple dollars.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
Hmm, how silly. Certainly would make for a big ole ugly placard that
already is irritating enough to have to look at. If it's a regulation, then
I would think all aircraft from this point on will need to comply. As for
those already certified and flying, maybe not. Who knows. Mike R...what
does Das Fed think 'bout it?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
258 hrs.
ain't puttin' no fugly placard on my plane....yet. *grumble*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | O-360 in an RV9? |
I am considering putting an O-360 in my RV9. If anyone has information on
fitting an O-360 in an RV9, please post.
It is about 2 inches wider. Will it fit?
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing IFR NAV radios |
Per FAR 43.1, FAR 43 is not applicable to experimentals, so I believe
the authority on this matter is the operating limitations of the aircraft.
Mine say that I am restricted to day VFR unless appropriately
equipped for night/IFR. To be appropriately equipped all I had to do
was comply with FAR 91, particularly 91.205 for equipment, and 91.215
for transponder certification.
I know of no requirement to have anybody approve your radio
installation.
Tim
On 8 Oct 2001, at 16:58, Michael Brown wrote:
From: "Michael Brown" <michael.brown(at)pepperweed.com>
Subject: RV-List: Installing IFR NAV radios
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I've done some research but I'm still a bit confused. I'm buying an
> already completed RV6 that is ready to go for IFR except for two
> things:
>
> 1. No IFR NAV radios
> 2. No Pitot/Static Cert
>
> So I'm planning a trip to the Avionics shop to get the pitot/static
> test done. That will be a piece of cake. The problem is with the NAV
> radios. I have everything picked out that I want to put in - mainly a
> GNS430 and a Century HSI. I'm confused as to what paperwork (if any)
> or approval by the FSDO (if any) has to be done.
>
> I'm going to do the install myself. I'll update the equipment list and
> the weight and balance. Other than that, does the FSDO have to approve
> the installation? I mean, there isn't a F337, right?
>
> Michael Brown
> Soon to be owner.N417G
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
********************************
The DCA Infinite TCA...
"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
********************************
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
I did a web search for this new AC and I could not find it. AC 20-27D did
not specify letter size, Are you saying that AC 20-27E specifies 3/8 inch
letters? Where can I find a copy of this newest version?
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
Subject: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
Hi,
My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
WARNING
THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
REGULATIONS FOR
STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel has
to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
in AvantGarde MdBT font.
It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
painting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | O-360 in an RV9? |
If it fits in a "6" it'll fit in a "9". You can also have Van's substitute
the cowling for the "7" in your finish kit. It will fit no problem and has
extra space for the IO-360. (no ugly snorkel on the bottom either).
Van's doesn't recommend the 360 based on Vne concerns, nothing to do with
available space.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
Finished Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Paulbaird(at)aol.com
> Sent: October 8, 2001 4:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: O-360 in an RV9?
>
>
> I am considering putting an O-360 in my RV9. If anyone has
> information on
> fitting an O-360 in an RV9, please post.
> It is about 2 inches wider. Will it fit?
>
> Paul
> 90355
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in an RV9? |
In a message dated 10/8/2001 5:37:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
haywire(at)telus.net writes:
>
> If it fits in a "6" it'll fit in a "9". You can also have Van's substitute
> the cowling for the "7" in your finish kit. It will fit no problem and has
> extra space for the IO-360. (no ugly snorkel on the bottom either).
> Van's doesn't recommend the 360 based on Vne concerns, nothing to
> do with
> available space.
> S. Todd Bartrim
> 13B RV-9
> C-FSTB (reserved)
> Finished Fuselage
>
You guys should look at the firewall area in the 9, it`s a
lot lighter built than the 6, I wouldn`t do it.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
I went to the EAA web site and followed the links to it.
>
> I did a web search for this new AC and I could not find it. AC 20-27D did
> not specify letter size, Are you saying that AC 20-27E specifies 3/8 inch
> letters? Where can I find a copy of this newest version?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | O-360 in an RV9? |
Paul was asking if it would fit. It will. I don't remember him asking anyone
if he should do it or not.
> >
>
> You guys should look at the firewall area in
> the 9, it`s a
> lot lighter built than the 6, I wouldn`t do it.
> Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
| Subject: | Installing IFR NAV radios |
Michael,
Regarding GPS: There is a requirement for certifying the accuracy of GPS
installations when they're to be used for IFR. I don't know precisely what
this consists of, but an avionics shop would know. Certification is a
one-time deal; it isn't a periodic requirement like VOR checks.
Sorry I can't be more specific; I've never tried to certify a GPS. I'm
recalling this from sources like IFR magazine and Aviation Consumer. (Just
tried looking it up: A quick look at Aviation Consumer's website found an
article that referred to the "required flyoff" of a GPS installation.)
Rick McCraw
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Brown
Subject: RV-List: Installing IFR NAV radios
I've done some research but I'm still a bit confused. I'm buying an
already completed RV6 that is ready to go for IFR except for two things:
1. No IFR NAV radios
2. No Pitot/Static Cert
So I'm planning a trip to the Avionics shop to get the pitot/static test
done. That will be a piece of cake. The problem is with the NAV radios.
I have everything picked out that I want to put in - mainly a GNS430 and
a Century HSI. I'm confused as to what paperwork (if any) or approval by
the FSDO (if any) has to be done.
I'm going to do the install myself. I'll update the equipment list and
the weight and balance. Other than that, does the FSDO have to approve
the installation? I mean, there isn't a F337, right?
Michael Brown
Soon to be owner.N417G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Got a question for you veteran pilots. What is the logic behind left
>and right selector for the fuel? Why not just have the engine feed from
>both? If it is a running out of fuel situation, why not just have a
>reserve switch?
>
>On a new plane that I was just checked out on, switching between
>left/right tanks was a constant theme on the check list. Seemed like
>just one more thing to keep track of. All of my flying has been in a
>plane with a single tank and I find this setup and procedure a little
>odd. Can some explain the logic to what I am missing?
>
>Gary Coonan
>Rockvale, TN
>RV-7 N989WT (Wings)
>gcoonan(at)home.com
>
This question gets beat to death about every month or so. A both
position works well if the tanks are gravity feeding to the selector,
but it doesn't work if the fuel is being sucked from the tanks by a
pump.
If the fuel is gravity feed, and one tank runs dry, the other tank
will still be supplying fuel to the selector. Lot of high wing
Cessnas are like this.
In an RV, if one tank ran dry, the pump would simply keep on pumping
air from that tank, as air is easier to suck than fuel. So, even
though you might have lots of fuel in the other tank, the engine
would quit. You can pretty much guarantee that one tank will feed
faster than the other if you use the both position, as one tank will
have a longer plumbing run than the other.
The only way to make a both position work for a low wing aircraft is
to have a header tank that both wing tanks feed into. That tank
would need to be several inches below the wing tanks, which means it
would need to be below the bottom of the fuselage on an RV.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing IFR NAV radios |
The GPS is NOT checked for accuracy but for interference to certain other
frequencies in the NAV-COM
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Installing IFR NAV radios
Michael,
Regarding GPS: There is a requirement for certifying the accuracy of GPS
installations when they're to be used for IFR. I don't know precisely what
this consists of, but an avionics shop would know. Certification is a
one-time deal; it isn't a periodic requirement like VOR checks.
Sorry I can't be more specific; I've never tried to certify a GPS. I'm
recalling this from sources like IFR magazine and Aviation Consumer. (Just
tried looking it up: A quick look at Aviation Consumer's website found an
article that referred to the "required flyoff" of a GPS installation.)
Rick McCraw
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Brown
Subject: RV-List: Installing IFR NAV radios
I've done some research but I'm still a bit confused. I'm buying an
already completed RV6 that is ready to go for IFR except for two things:
1. No IFR NAV radios
2. No Pitot/Static Cert
So I'm planning a trip to the Avionics shop to get the pitot/static test
done. That will be a piece of cake. The problem is with the NAV radios.
I have everything picked out that I want to put in - mainly a GNS430 and
a Century HSI. I'm confused as to what paperwork (if any) or approval by
the FSDO (if any) has to be done.
I'm going to do the install myself. I'll update the equipment list and
the weight and balance. Other than that, does the FSDO have to approve
the installation? I mean, there isn't a F337, right?
Michael Brown
Soon to be owner.N417G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chandler" <Chandler(at)arbbs.net> |
Hi Jim,
Hope I do this correctly, it's my first time. I'm a beginner as well,
currently working on dimpling the HS. I work for a corporate jet
manufactor and the only primer the paint department uses is Pratt
Lambert epoxy primer. So after a little research found the it is made by
Sherwin Williams Aerospace Division.So I called my local store and after
they made a few phone calls they tried to sell me a zinc chromate primer
which is a possible link to lung cancer. I've work at a few facilities
and they will not allow it to be used even in an aerosol can. They are
producing a zinc oxide primer, althought I haven't heard of it hazards
or its performance. I got the number to the aerospace division and
talked to a tech rep and he told me that the epoxy primers in his
opinion were the best for the application. The preparation process
should include alumiprep and alodine followed by epoxy primer. He said
that the self etching primers were worthless if you were wanting
corrosion preventive, which the alodine does. The process takes about
1minute for etch, rinse and 1min for alodine, rinse and air dry for
24hrs and then primer. Per the tech rep. after each part is prep with
scothbrite prior to etching. I believe I have all the part number's and
prices at work and will post them tommorrow. But of course all of this
is up to the builder, to prime or not to prime. If I'm going to spend
the time to do it, I want to do it right. I use that term loosely. Good
luck priming.
Forrest Chandler
AR
8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
Mine are much smaller than that. Probably 3/16" high at best, and there was
no question at all from my DAR, and he was very thorough.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
I did a web search for this new AC and I could not find it. AC 20-27D did
not specify letter size, Are you saying that AC 20-27E specifies 3/8 inch
letters? Where can I find a copy of this newest version?
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
Subject: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
Hi,
My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
WARNING
THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
REGULATIONS FOR
STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel has
to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
in AvantGarde MdBT font.
It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
painting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
It was in the last EAA e-newsletter. Here is the link to the new advisory
circular. Go to the bottom of page 13 for the new "passenger" info.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ac20-27E.pdf
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>painting!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
Perhaps the larger letters only applies if your cruise speed is over 180
Knots {:>)
Ed Anderson
Matthews
>
> It was in the last EAA e-newsletter. Here is the link to the new advisory
> circular. Go to the bottom of page 13 for the new "passenger" info.
>
> http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ac20-27E.pdf
>
> Dave Berryhill
> BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
> >relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the
exact
> >paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
> >WARNING
> >THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL
SAFETY
> >REGULATIONS FOR
> >STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
> >has
> >to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
> >
> >First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
> >about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on
CorelDRAW
> >in AvantGarde MdBT font.
> >
> >It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
> >
> >That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
> >places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
> >strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
> >
> >-Glenn Gordon
> >N442E reserved
> >painting!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Central Aviation |
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>Is anyone familiar with the paint work of Central Aviation in Watertown,
>Wisconsin? They have done several RVs in the past and I am hoping to run
>across someone who can attest to their workmanship.
>
>Doug
Doug,
My 6A was painted at Watertown earlier this year:
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/paint.html
They do have a good reputation, & I am very happy with the job they did for
about $4000. There are a few things, like the lines between the colors not
being as crisp as I might like. But I understand I would have to pay a lot
more for a "showplane" style finish. Even so, I get a lot of compliments
on the paint job.
If you are planning a trip to Watertown to check them out, I could try to
arrange to meet you there so you could look at my 6A - it's only 30nm from
my home airport (ETB). Also, if you need an extra pair of hands to
remove/replace control surfaces & fairings, I would try to help.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
My letters on my panel are probably 1/4" and my DAR did not even say a word,
and he was very thorough.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel.
Hi Glen & Judy
Anyone with a slider canopy can place the "Passenger Warning" on the outside
of the canopy rails where it is clearly visible to anyone entering the
aircraft, and invisible to all when the canopy is closed. Not required to be
on the instrument panel.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "\"Bill VonDane\" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
\"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com\""
| Subject: | FlowScan Fuel Flow Transducer |
Anybody know where to get these directly? Just looking for the best
price...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
It doesn't have to go on the panel. It has to be clearly visible to a
passenger entering the aircraft.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Berryhill
mgelber(at)pacbell.net; kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed!
Help!
It was in the last EAA e-newsletter. Here is the link to the new
advisory
circular. Go to the bottom of page 13 for the new "passenger" info.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ac20-27E.pdf
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the
exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text
"PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL
SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument
panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on
CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are
other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to
be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>painting!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
According to the RVator I received today there is a possibility that the
'B' nuts on the fuel pickups can work loose. These are the AN fittings
internal to the fuel tank attaching the pickup tubes to the access
plate.
I am not surprised with this comment and wonder how widespread this
issue actually is.
Firstly, I know that these AN fittings should not be assembled with any
locking or sealing compound. However given the inaccessibility of these
fittings I am considering breaking this rule just to be sure that they
will not leak air at some point in the future.
My thoughts on the matter is that the near pure aluminium fuel lines
would over time work loose due to 'cold creep' alone let alone any
vibration. 'Cold creep' is a common problem with soft alloys and is
more often encountered with soldered joints placed under mechanical
stress. The Al is soft and might just be the reason for this
observation by Vans.
I have noted a lot of RV-List discussion over the years concerning
inexplicable fluctuations in fuel pressure. Air leaks within the fuel
system such as at this fitting may cause such fluctuations. The RVator
talks of fuel starvation, I would expect the slightest air leak to
create fluctuations. Try using a drinking straw with the pin prick near
the top.
Has anyone else added a dob of Proseal to these 'just to be sure'?
Can anyone correlate fluctuating fuel pressure symptoms with these nuts
working loose?
Doug Gray
RV-6 Wings done...fuel tank access covers still not finally fitted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Normanjd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/07/01 |
Regarding the subject of having a "both" position fuel valve on an RV. On a
low wing airplane it is much easier to unport a fuel pickup tube than on a
high wing airplane. It is much easier for the fuel pump to pump air out of
the unported tank than the tank with fuel. Of course when the air arrives at
the fuel pump it suddenly is unable to provide "suction" (lift pump valves
only work with fluids and do not seal sufficiently with air) to move any fuel
that is now in the line. This is the same way that a vapor lock shuts off
the fuel supply. Van knew what he was doing when he designed the fuel
system. If an unporting occurred on your first test flight (or any flight)
at 50 feet above the runway, that's the wrong place to find out your redesign
has a flaw!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
>
>
>According to the RVator I received today there is a possibility that the
>'B' nuts on the fuel pickups can work loose. These are the AN fittings
>internal to the fuel tank attaching the pickup tubes to the access
>plate.
>
>I am not surprised with this comment and wonder how widespread this
>issue actually is.
>
>Firstly, I know that these AN fittings should not be assembled with any
>locking or sealing compound. However given the inaccessibility of these
>fittings I am considering breaking this rule just to be sure that they
>will not leak air at some point in the future.
>
>My thoughts on the matter is that the near pure aluminium fuel lines
>would over time work loose due to 'cold creep' alone let alone any
>vibration. 'Cold creep' is a common problem with soft alloys and is
>more often encountered with soldered joints placed under mechanical
>stress. The Al is soft and might just be the reason for this
>observation by Vans.
>
>I have noted a lot of RV-List discussion over the years concerning
>inexplicable fluctuations in fuel pressure. Air leaks within the fuel
>system such as at this fitting may cause such fluctuations. The RVator
>talks of fuel starvation, I would expect the slightest air leak to
>create fluctuations. Try using a drinking straw with the pin prick near
>the top.
>
>Has anyone else added a dob of Proseal to these 'just to be sure'?
>
>Can anyone correlate fluctuating fuel pressure symptoms with these nuts
>working loose?
>
>Doug Gray
>RV-6 Wings done...fuel tank access covers still not finally fitted.
>
Interesting observations, Doug. It's hard to predict what will happen to
soft alloys that are torqued into each other, over time, in a chemical
saturated environment. On my tanks, I assembled the pickups dry, and
applied sealant around the OUTside of the assembled fittings. As a pilot
who has experienced an engine out situation due to sealant locking up the
carburetor float, I am firmly against using any form of goop that can be
exposed to the pressurized fuel stream. In my case it was NOT proseal, but
red RTV (supposedly fuel resistant. NOT!). All AN fittings in the fuel
system should be assembled dry and properly torqued. In the case of the
fuel pickups, I see no harm in an external application of sealant, along
with the anti-rotation bracket.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
258 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
My new McCraery Air Hawks arrived from Desser today, and, true to the specs
in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, they weigh 4.3 lbs each on my digital scales.
Quite a savings in weight over the retreads and several other 5.00x5 models.
(see previous posts in the archives- some weigh over 6# apiece).
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)fiberpipe.net> |
I know it's probably splitting hairs, but most of the instructions for a
wash/alodine sequence call for shooting the primer on within 8 hrs. of the
application of the alodine. If you are seriously concerned about corrosion,
don't skip the alodine step, talk to any aircraft paint shop to confirm
this. If they skipped this step they would make more $ on each paint job,
but most will not skip the alodine.
Bob Brown
Winnemucca, NV
RV-7 Quick Build(N117KB reserved)
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
This is the response by Earl Lawrence on the AC
Cy:
This is not a new regulation and as far as we can tell it is a misprint.
The passenger placards we sell the wording is 3/8" for ALL of the words not
the height of each letter. EAA is working with the FAA to fix this. The
3/8" was not in the draft of the AC.
Earl
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
It was in the last EAA e-newsletter. Here is the link to the new advisory
circular. Go to the bottom of page 13 for the new "passenger" info.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ac20-27E.pdf
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>painting!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
I am wondering just like ALL ACs... AC stands for ADVISORY Circular. Being
advisory in nature doesn't mean that you can't deviate.
The other thing, even though it says 3/8" high, it doesn't specify width of
letters nor the space between. I'll bet that even using 3/8" high letters,
I could get it all in the 1 1/4" by 3 3/4" area listed in the Aircraft
Spruce catalog. Might not be very readable but it would meet the suggested
size.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
My letters on my panel are probably 1/4" and my DAR did not even say a word,
and he was very thorough.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Gyro Vacuum Troubleshooting |
Help!-
I am trying to figure out if my gyro vacuum system is working correctly.
I have a new Rapco vacuum kit installed and I can't seem to get enough
vac at idle (under 1,400 rpm) and at high altitude (above 12,000 ft). I
have the system connected according to the diagram.
Problems-
The gauge stutters quite a bit at idle. I removed the hose and felt
the vacuum with my finger-it pulses considerably. Is this normal?
At RPM's below 1,400 it is out of the green arc. At idle there is no
reading. At 2,000 RPM it is at 5 in.
The gyros do not spin up well unless I do an extended run-up. Waiting
before take-off at idle or coming into the pattern at low power will
cause 20+ deg of precession of the DG on take-off. I sent the DG back
already for warranty and they could find nothing wrong with it.
The gauge falls out the green arc at high altitudes (12,000 at 2,300
rpm) -is this normal?
Is this a regulator, vacuum pump, install, or adjustment problem?
thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 48 hrs
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
Doug,
I completely encircled the B nut with proseal. Not flying yet so I can't
say it works.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Gray
Subject: RV-List: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment
According to the RVator I received today there is a possibility that the
'B' nuts on the fuel pickups can work loose. These are the AN fittings
internal to the fuel tank attaching the pickup tubes to the access
plate.
I am not surprised with this comment and wonder how widespread this
issue actually is.
Firstly, I know that these AN fittings should not be assembled with any
locking or sealing compound. However given the inaccessibility of these
fittings I am considering breaking this rule just to be sure that they
will not leak air at some point in the future.
My thoughts on the matter is that the near pure aluminium fuel lines
would over time work loose due to 'cold creep' alone let alone any
vibration. 'Cold creep' is a common problem with soft alloys and is
more often encountered with soldered joints placed under mechanical
stress. The Al is soft and might just be the reason for this
observation by Vans.
I have noted a lot of RV-List discussion over the years concerning
inexplicable fluctuations in fuel pressure. Air leaks within the fuel
system such as at this fitting may cause such fluctuations. The RVator
talks of fuel starvation, I would expect the slightest air leak to
create fluctuations. Try using a drinking straw with the pin prick near
the top.
Has anyone else added a dob of Proseal to these 'just to be sure'?
Can anyone correlate fluctuating fuel pressure symptoms with these nuts
working loose?
Doug Gray
RV-6 Wings done...fuel tank access covers still not finally fitted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
Chris,
I'll certainly post the performance of my 87" pitch when I get it done and
tested. The plan is to have it installed on the 20th, and I'll certainly do
some initial testing then, and perhaps more later.
I do have to pull the power back for cruise at any altitude that doesn't
require oxygen, which is why I'm going ahead with the repitch. I'll loose a
bit of climb, but that isn't an issue with an RV at sea level. My best
measured cruise speed is 174 kts, which I calculated to be about 70% power
at the time. Since then, I've added a noticeable amount of power with the
Ellison TBI and Lightspeed ignition, but to be able to use it in cruise,
I'll need more pitch. BTW- electronic ignition is the BEST money you'll
ever spend on the engine. I'm expecting a 75% cruise speed in excess of 180
kts when I get the prop back.
As for static RPM, believe it or not, I've never measured this. It will
make an interesting before and after figure, so I'll try to check it this
weekend when I have someone in the back seat as ballast.
I don't believe there's a problem going from 83" to anything you'd want
(85"-87"), but you'd have to ask Sensenich to be sure. You won't have to
worry about "losing" the certification of the prop either, because they
aren't certified to start with. I believe "experimental" is stamped right on
the hub. These props were designed specifically for the RV series (thank you
Sensenich), because no certified spam product can be twisted to anything
close to the pitch we need. Also, be advised that Sensenich doesn't
recommend using their (or anyone else's) aluminum prop with any engine that
has been modified (high compression pistons) from a configuration that has
been specifically tested. I've seen them state this in public forums on a
few occasions. You'll have to decide how much of that is the lawyers wishes.
Rusty
Navarre, FL
N174KT- 75 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Jabiru 6000 Update |
Howdy Listers-
I received the following e-mail from Down Under in response to a request
for status of the 6000 program- thought I'd pass it along for those
interested...
They also sent some small photos of the Spitfire- contact my off-list if
you'd like to see 'em.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - working on new "airplane noises" for when my -6A fuse
gets flipped!
Subject: Re RV-8
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:29:15 +1000
From: <productsupport(at)jabiru.net.au>
To:
Dear Mark,
The Jabiru 6000 engine is currently flying in the Supermarine with about
6 hours flight time on it. With the engine testing that has been done,
we are very happy with the performance & cooling aspect of the engine.
Jabiru's RV6 installation in the factory is still happening with the
cowling mould near completion.
We would like to get more flight time & dynamometer time before going
into a full production run on the engines. Our engine will be available
January 2002.
The prop - engine combination is still being trailed to find the best
combination & will start make recommendations when we have trailed a few
types. The Prop Flange is 6 holes, 19mm dia on 120 PCD which will
accommodate most propellers types.
As far as prices go on a Engine installation package, there has been no
finalised price set as yet.
Regards
Jamie Cook
(Product Support Supervisor)
Visit our Web on www.jabiru.net.au
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: 6000 engine
> Hi Jabiru!
>
> Could you please provide a status report on the new 8-cyl engine, such
> as has the Spitfire flown yet and are any performance figures
> available? Also very intersted in progress being made on the RV-6
> installation package. I haven't seen an update to your website in
quite
> some time and am very seriously considering this engine for my RV-6A.
>
> Thanks for your time
> Mark Phillips
> Columbia, TN, USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
Doug Gray wrote:
> age posted by: Doug Gray
>
> Has anyone else added a dob of Proseal to these 'just to be sure'?
>
Hi Doug- I completely covered the nut to tube and fitting joints with the
stuff just to make sure this didn't happen. If I gotta dig 'em out later,
so be it. I also Pro-sealed the covers. Still working on fuse, but the
tanks passed the leak test!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A (going nuts with the Pro-seal- must be the fumes! )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
Rusty
Thanx for the reply, and I'll be looking for your posting with the results. I
should probably contact Sensenich and ask them about the 9.2 to 1 pistons
that I have. They are 0320 H2AD stock lycoming pistons, and the engine was
built by Aerosport Power ,who have an impeccable reputation amongst RV
builders for reliability.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gyro Vacuum Troubleshooting |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/09/2001 01:07:39 PM
A couple of ideas... Please forgive me if I'm providing only the obvious
(to you) ones. In my installation, I had to adjust the vacuum regulator
significantly to get the vacuum gage"in the green" at 1500rpm. Secondly,
assuming the vacuum pressure is pulsing more than normal, you may have
skived one or more of the vacuum hose lines during installation. The
skived rubber acts like a flapper valve that pulsates during operation.
You may find it appropriate to look at the bore of all tubes.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Robin Wessel" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/09/01 10:58 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Gyro Vacuum Troubleshooting
|
Help!-
I am trying to figure out if my gyro vacuum system is working correctly.
I have a new Rapco vacuum kit installed and I can't seem to get enough
vac at idle (under 1,400 rpm) and at high altitude (above 12,000 ft). I
have the system connected according to the diagram.
Problems-
The gauge stutters quite a bit at idle. I removed the hose and felt
the vacuum with my finger-it pulses considerably. Is this normal?
At RPM's below 1,400 it is out of the green arc. At idle there is no
reading. At 2,000 RPM it is at 5 in.
The gyros do not spin up well unless I do an extended run-up. Waiting
before take-off at idle or coming into the pattern at low power will
cause 20+ deg of precession of the DG on take-off. I sent the DG back
already for warranty and they could find nothing wrong with it.
The gauge falls out the green arc at high altitudes (12,000 at 2,300
rpm) -is this normal?
Is this a regulator, vacuum pump, install, or adjustment problem?
thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 48 hrs
Tigard, OR
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone have experience with the McCauley Prop
from a Mooney 201 (B2D34C214) on an RV?
Any installation experience, performance results?
Thanks
Frank
-8 Awaiting QB Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: McCauley Prop |
I just mounted mine this last weekend. If you want to use Van's spinner the biggest
issue is you will need to get a different spinner backplate (spelled $$)
and fabricate a different front plate. The backplate that works is a Cessna
part. I have the part number at home if you need it. I ended up paying $400
for the backplate, but that's much cheaper than a McCauley spinner assembly.
I plan to make a fiberglass front plate that will be permanently afixed to the
spinner. Louis Smith has used the same prop on his -8 and when I spoke with
him he was happy with the performance. Let me know if I can provide you that
part number. McCauley will also send you shop drawings of the spinner and prop
assembly if you give them a call.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
A trick you might use (even on a high-dollar professional paint job) to
hide paint cut lines is to apply automotive trim tape over the lines.
Not only does the tape (I used combinations of 1/4" and 1/8" wide tape)
hide the cut lines, you can add contrasting color which really finishes
the paint scheme.
And.......people might think you have a "showplane" paint job..........
:-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
Chris Good wrote:
>
> Doug,
> They do have a good reputation, & I am very happy with the job they did for
> about $4000. There are a few things, like the lines between the colors not
> being as crisp as I might like. But I understand I would have to pay a lot
> more for a "showplane" style finish. Even so, I get a lot of compliments
> on the paint job.
>snip>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto timing |
Chris,
Been a long time, or at least seems do, since we met in Hawaii.
Have you checked the point gap? Point wear can also change the ignition
timing.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Magneto timing
>Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Listers,
>
>This weekend I started a 100 hr maintenance check on my 6A. On checking
>the
>magneto timing, I discovered that both mags had drifted out about 5
>degrees, so
>they were firing at 30 BTDC instead of 25. This was the first time I had
>checked the timing in 291 hrs since the new engine installation - should
>have
>done it earlier, but I now have that item on my 100hr checklist.
>
>OK, so no problem bumping the mags back into position. But now the impulse
>coupler on the right mag fires at about 5 degrees after TDC instead of at
>TDC.
>Is this likely to be a problem when starting? Is there an independent
>external
>adjustment?
>
>I've just ordered "The Magneto Ignition System" by John Schwaner, & hope to
>get
>further answers from that.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
>West Bend, WI
>RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
>
>
>http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing IFR NAV radios |
Mike,
Check your operating limitations. If it states in them that you need inform
the FAA of any major alterations then you will simply need to inform them
via letter wht alteration has been done. They will then inform you of what
they want, ie; a five hour test flight, etc. What they primarily will want
to know is if the addition of the 430 is still within the max output range
of the alternator.
If you have newer Operating Limitations that allow you to make a major
alteration and then put it into a 5 hour test flight mode then just make a
logbook entry, fly off the test flight period, make a conclusion logbook
entry, and go forth.
If you have the earlier Operating Limitations that require FAA notification
then you could always go to the FSDO and get newer updated Operating
Limitations. You may need to do this anyways as some earlier Operating
Limitations included a statment about the VFR/IFR mode you were able to fly
in based on what the inspector saw at the time of the original
certification.
If you have any other questions feel free to Email me directly.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: "Michael Brown" <michael.brown(at)pepperweed.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Installing IFR NAV radios
>Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 16:58:09 -0500
>
>
>
>I've done some research but I'm still a bit confused. I'm buying an
>already completed RV6 that is ready to go for IFR except for two things:
>
>1. No IFR NAV radios
>2. No Pitot/Static Cert
>
>So I'm planning a trip to the Avionics shop to get the pitot/static test
>done. That will be a piece of cake. The problem is with the NAV radios.
>I have everything picked out that I want to put in - mainly a GNS430 and
>a Century HSI. I'm confused as to what paperwork (if any) or approval by
>the FSDO (if any) has to be done.
>
>I'm going to do the install myself. I'll update the equipment list and
>the weight and balance. Other than that, does the FSDO have to approve
>the installation? I mean, there isn't a F337, right?
>
>Michael Brown
>Soon to be owner.N417G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "\"Gary Zilik\" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
\"rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com\""
| Subject: | FOR SALE RV-6 Kit |
Listers,
I recently met a gentleman located near Fort Collins, Colorado that has
the following kit for sale.
I have a RV-6 kits for sale: The kit contains Fuselage kit, wing kit
and one full tail kit, also included is the jig for wings and tail
kits. Wings are 20% completed. I have an additional partial tail kit
that we will include. $6,000.00 for all. I have photos if interested.
Send email to freddie811(at)yahoo.com.
Gilbert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
The EAA has a short bit about it on their website and they have a link to
the AC there. I went there and downloaded a copy for my use as who knows
how long until I get a copy through the "official" channels.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed!
>Help!
>Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 20:14:11 -0400
>
>
>I did a web search for this new AC and I could not find it. AC 20-27D did
>not specify letter size, Are you saying that AC 20-27E specifies 3/8 inch
>letters? Where can I find a copy of this newest version?
>
>Bruce
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
>Subject: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
>
>
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>painting!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
Thanks Mike. I finally found it. I sure hope it was a misprint. The EAA
hopes so also, at least that's what they told me when I called them this
morning. Let us know when you get a 'clarification' from Washington.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Subject: RE: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed!
Help!
The EAA has a short bit about it on their website and they have a link to
the AC there. I went there and downloaded a copy for my use as who knows
how long until I get a copy through the "official" channels.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed!
>Help!
>Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 20:14:11 -0400
>
>
>I did a web search for this new AC and I could not find it. AC 20-27D did
>not specify letter size, Are you saying that AC 20-27E specifies 3/8 inch
>letters? Where can I find a copy of this newest version?
>
>Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring |
Rick, We will have an answer to your question tomorrow. We will tell you how
ours is wired.
We have an additional problem. We purchased acomplete engine with the
VM1000 already installed and removed and and taged each wire. We are
reasonabley sure we have it wired correctly but at this stage we can not
power up the system. We did not get a complete installation nor
operational manual so we don't know what the start up steps are. Could you
please give us an outline of the start up proceedure.
As I stated I will give you our wiring installation tomorrow regarding our
hook up tomoprrow.
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
6A Canopy installed!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Compressor Blues |
Norman,
what's going on is you have a hole in the regulator diaphram allowing
air to seep from the line (high pressure) side to the regulated (low
pressure) side.
You can get rebuild kits for most of the more common commercial
regulators (ie Binks, Le Roi, Ingersoll-Rand) if not you need a new
regulator.
Either way thebest thing to do is tee off your line (tank) pressure with
a quick coupler for high air ( for cut off wheels, blow gun, etc.) and
keep your regulator set for your common use working pressure ( rivet
gun, primer gun, air sander/file, etc.) That way you aren't constantly
working the diaphram.
We have 6 set-ups like that in the shop and they work very well.
Jim D. RV-7A N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | hinge placement for cowling |
RV9a drawing (I believe it is number 45) and I think, no other, shows
much about the hinge length and spacing, left, right, top and bottom for
the cowling mount.
A call to tech, at Van's resulted in the remark that it is not that
critical.
Anyone that has done it hav ecomments on where and how long?
Barry Pote
RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MELVIN BARLOW" <melbarlow(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Hi frequency vibration in my -4 |
>I need some help. I have a high frequency >vibration in my -4 that I have
>been unable to identify or eliminate. I would >appreciate any help you
>builders/flyers may be able to offer
Dean,
I had a similar vibration a couple of years ago in my -4. A fairly loud
buzzing noise emanating from somewhere behind me. Only difference between my
problem and the one you describe is that I would occasionally get it while
solo. I finally reglued the sealing material (fuzzy velcro) on the underside
of my aft canopy skirt. End of problem (at least until the next time I fly).
Mel Barlow
1988 RV4, 750 Hrs.
160 Lyc. Warnke 72X72
Based at IJD, Ct, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Chris,
Are you aware that the Sensenich 72FM prop for the O-360 is not approved
for use with high-compression pistons? I talked to one of the engineers
at Sensenich about this a few months ago, as I was interested in putting
9:1 pistons in my O-360. The verdict was that they have not tested the
prop with any O-360 using anything more than the normal 8.5:1
compression, and so the prop has not been approved for high-compression
pistons. The concern is that the power pulses are stronger with higher
compression pistons, and the blades may not be stiff enough to handle the
extra stress over time. The 72FM prop was originally designed to have a
greater diameter, but it was shortened by a couple inches to stiffen the
blades as a result of testing on the normal compression O-360's. Since
this prop is Experimental (unlike the O-320 prop) and you have it on an
Experimental aircraft, you are free to put it on any engine you want, but
you are risking the unknown by going outside of Sensenich's testing.
Prop failure can be catastrophic, especially metal props which can rip
the engine completely off the airplane in the event of a blade failure
(resulting in extreme aft CG and loss of control)....
As for repitching the prop, Sensenich will do this for $150, and it does
not become uncertified since it is not certified to begin with. There
are limits to how much the prop can be repitched, and how many
times...Sensenich can give you this info for your specific prop.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting to order finish kit....
----------------
From: Helifoto(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch?
Russel
I have a 83 Sensenich on my O360 RV-8. The engine has higher compression
pistons and fuel injection etc. so that it produces about 200 horse
power. I
can get about 2200 rpm static and I have to pull it back about an inch at
cruise to keep the rpm under redline. I am thinking about a repitch to 85
or
more and would like to know how it works for you. Could you please email
me
after you have that done and let me know your results? Also what kind of
static rpm are you getting now with your 85? Do you need to pull it back
at
cruise?
Does Sensenich say they can repitch the prop and does it then become
uncertified?
Thanx for the info
Chris Hukill
Helifoto(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch? |
tks chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Helifoto(at)aol.com [mailto:Helifoto(at)aol.com]
> Sent: 9. oktober 2001 18:59
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch?
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Helifoto(at)aol.com
>
> Rusty
> Thanx for the reply, and I'll be looking for your posting
> with the results. I
> should probably contact Sensenich and ask them about the 9.2
> to 1 pistons
> that I have. They are 0320 H2AD stock lycoming pistons, and
> the engine was
> built by Aerosport Power ,who have an impeccable reputation
> amongst RV
> builders for reliability.
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
> On my tanks, I assembled the pickups dry, and
> applied sealant around the OUTside of the assembled fittings.
Thanks, I'll put some proseal around the outside as everyone suggested.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring |
Rollie . . . Dennis Persyk enlightened me re: the connectors . . . if one
uses a magnifying glass, or if one's eyes haven't been on this earth for
over forty years or so, one can see tiny pin numbers molded into the pin
housing. Re: start-up procedures, send me a fax number off line and I can
fax you items out of the manual. Regards,
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rquinn1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring
>
> Rick, We will have an answer to your question tomorrow. We will tell you
how
> ours is wired.
> We have an additional problem. We purchased acomplete engine with the
> VM1000 already installed and removed and and taged each wire. We are
> reasonabley sure we have it wired correctly but at this stage we can not
> power up the system. We did not get a complete installation nor
> operational manual so we don't know what the start up steps are. Could
you
> please give us an outline of the start up proceedure.
> As I stated I will give you our wiring installation tomorrow regarding
our
> hook up tomoprrow.
> Thanks
> Rollie & Rod
> 6A Canopy installed!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | What happened to Eggenfellner's web site? |
Anyone know what happened to Eggenfellner's (John?) Subaru website? It used
to be here:
http://www.subaruaircraft.com/
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Very Important Information - not rv related |
writes:
Jim,
Count me as one of the many who appreciate the personal risk
you took to tell us what you saw happening. Unfortunately,
evidence seems to be developing that you were right. Please
have a little patience with the skeptics and those that don't
know how to disagree without being offensive. The posts that
I remember seeing in disagreement were not that bad, but
then I probably didn't see all of them. Of course we all wanted
you to be wrong. We hoped you would post an embarrassed message saying
that you had misread the evidence; that there
is no pattern developing, that it was all for nothing. As I see it,
you did the right thing and you took flak for it. Don't think that
the flak is representative of those who's respect you have
earned over the years. As far as I am concerned, you have
earned the right to post messages on the RV list on any
subject you want.
Terry
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <emmanuelle.j.richard(at)boeing.com> |
| Subject: | 'transponder does not turn on' troubleshooting |
The troublemaker is a Garmin GTX327 transponder wired as follows:
-pin 15 to circuit breaker
-pins 13 and 25 to ground
-pin 14 to Ameriking blind encoder (switched power)
-pins 3,4,5,6,7,9,10,11,12,18 to encoder (gray scale)
-pin 24 - not hooked up (lighting)
-antenna connected
So far, I have not managed to turn it on - no display, no light illuminates,
no noise.
- There is battery voltage between 15 and 13.
- I thought pin 24 was for dimming purposes. Could that be the problem -
hook up that pin to 12V?
Any other ideas? Avionics shop is booked solid until the 25th...I'm not
that patient.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
OK Folks, I got the word to day on this issue. As suspected, and stated by
a few, it is a typo error that can be ignored. So for those of you that
have the new AC put a line through the part where it says "in letters at
least 3/8 inches in height". The rest of the sentence stands as written.
I haven't had a chance to review the rest of the AC yet. If I find anything
of interest I will share it with you.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
>Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:07:17 -0500
>
>
>
>Hi,
>My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
>relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the exact
>paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
>WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR
>STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
>has
>to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
>
>First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
>about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on CorelDRAW
>in AvantGarde MdBT font.
>
>It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
>
>That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
>places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
>strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>painting!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help! |
Mike,
Once again... you've come through for us. Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
>
> OK Folks, I got the word to day on this issue. As suspected, and stated
by
> a few, it is a typo error that can be ignored. So for those of you that
> have the new AC put a line through the part where it says "in letters at
> least 3/8 inches in height". The rest of the sentence stands as written.
>
> I haven't had a chance to review the rest of the AC yet. If I find
anything
> of interest I will share it with you.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
>
> >From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "rv-list"
> >Subject: RV-List: New Advisory Circular, More panel space needed! Help!
> >Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:07:17 -0500
> >
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >My AVWEB e-mail this morning told me of the new FAA advisory circular
> >relating to homebuilt certification and guidelines. I don't have the
exact
> >paragraph number handy, but in it is spelled out that the text "PASSENGER
> >WARNING
> >THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL
SAFETY
> >REGULATIONS FOR
> >STANDARD CATEGORY AIRCRAFT." that we usually see on the instrument panel
> >has
> >to be composed of letters no less than 3/8" tall.
> >
> >First off, my panel is finished (or so I thought) and so I am not happy
> >about having to redo the panel. Second, I layed out the text on
CorelDRAW
> >in AvantGarde MdBT font.
> >
> >It came out to the following dimensions. 13 5/16" Wide x 1 13/16" Tall
> >
> >That's a lot of prime panel real estate to waste. Maybe there are other
> >places where the placard can be placed. I wonder if this is going to be
> >strictly enforced. Any thoughts?
> >
> >-Glenn Gordon
> >N442E reserved
> >painting!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jared Boone" <jboone(at)earfeast.com> |
, ,
| Subject: | For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price lowered!) |
[OK, I really just want to get rid of my RV-8 HS parts, so I've dropped the
price to "ridiculously low". Read on...]
When the RV-7 came out, I decided to convert my RV-8 empennage to an RV-7,
leaving me with a mostly-completed RV-8 horizontal stabilizer. I need more
space in my garage as I get ready for the wing kit, so...
I'm selling my RV-8 HS parts as a set for $75.00 (not including shipping).
I'd prefer to sell to someone close enough to Beaverton, OR that I won't
have to figure out how to ship it, but it's no big deal to ship the stuff
either. According to Van's current prices, the set of raw parts is worth
about $450 new, so this is a pretty good deal, methinks. If you think
otherwise, make me an offer!
Most everything has already been cut, drilled, bent, countersunk, dimpled,
fluted to the point where priming and riveting the skeleton would be next.
This includes cut, drilled, and bent HS-610/810, 814, and HS-602s.
Workmanship is good -- definitely airworthy.
Here's a description of what I've got:
2 x HS-404 RIB-ROOT FWD
2 x HS-405 RIB-ROOT MAIN
4 x HS-412PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
4 x HS-413PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
2 x HS-602 SPAR - FWD
2 x HS-603PP HORIZ. REAR SPAR
2 x HS-606 RIB-TIP
2 x HS-607 RIB-CENTER FWD
2 x HS-608 RIB-CENTER MAIN
2 x HS-609PP PP FLANGE STRIPS
1 x AA6-125X3/4X3/4X17 AL. ANGLE HS-610/810
2 x HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN
1 x HS-814 PRE-CUT UNIT
1 x 8 PLANS EMP SET EMPENNAGE PLANS SET
Parts not included because I reused them on my RV-7 kit:
2 x HS-411BPP-PC HINGE BRACKET
1 x VA-146 FLANGE BEARING
Assorted rivets and bolts
Contact me at jboone(at)earfeast.com or (503) 466-2877 for more information.
- Jared Boone
RV-7 Empennage
Beaverton, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | iPaq users question |
Did you ever determine if iPAC can handle GPS + MP3 at the same time?
Mike Wilson RV4
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
Subject: RV-List: iPaq users question
I am pondering my options for tunes. I followed the recent thread
concerning the different formats and have decided on a MP3 player. The two
options are the hard drive MP3 players like the Creative Labs Nomad or the
Archos Jukebox or a pocket PC like the iPaq H3650. The pocket pc options
allows other things such as the use of the Anywhere map software so seems
like the superior option.
My question is if the iPaq is running the Anywhere map can it also play
MP3's without choking and is it easy to switch between software applications
with both running?
Another question, it seems like panel jacks for GPS and audio panel
interface as well as external power would be a clean installation rather
than having loose wires running from the back of the panel to the iPac. Is
this easy to do or are the cables weird enough to make it a difficult setup?
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | What happened to Eggenfellner's web site? |
It still is there. Looks like he's having trouble though. He may not know
his web content has been either inadvertantly or maliciously removed. I'd
call or email him directly.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Berryhill [mailto:berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: What happened to Eggenfellner's web site?
Anyone know what happened to Eggenfellner's (John?) Subaru website? It used
to be here:
http://www.subaruaircraft.com/
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone in DFW going to the Land of Enchantment Fly-In? |
Is anyone in the DFW area going to the Land of Enchantment RV Fly-In on Oct.
26-28 in Las Cruces, NM and have room for a passenger? I'll split fuel
costs.
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/loe/loervfi.htm#soe
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPaq users question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
>
> Did you ever determine if iPAC can handle GPS + MP3 at the same time?
>
> Mike Wilson RV4
Mike,
My conclusion from all the replies I got was NO. The software tripped over
itself. I also wondered if the audio output jack of the iPaq was still
accessable after you plug in the GPS interface. I don't own a iPaq so I can
not answer this question. I am going to go with a MP3 Player that has a 6
GB harddrive. Should hold all my tunes nicely and will plug into my SL15
audio panel.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
"\"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'\"
\"L. A. Fox (E-mail)\"",
"Randall Henderson (E-mail)" ,
"Randy Lervold (E-mail)" <randy@rv-8.com>,
"Rider, Scott",
"Wilson Benjamin C3C CS31 (E-mail)"
Hi Rob,
44 hours so far!!!
The First Flight is something you can only experience once, but it stays
with you forever. When Len flew it I didn't get all emotional, but when I
flew it ... Well, you have to do it to understand. You know what I mean.
I'm getting very comfortable with the airplane now. I like it!!! Simple Fun
and Fast. Try to stay focused always.
I broke the starter Sat., while getting ready to go to breakfast with Brent
and Mike O., so it's down right now.
Seems when the batt. is low an it cranks slowly, the LS elec. ign. fires BTC
and it kicks back into the starter. Need to talk with light speed. I think I
can fix the starter but teeth are missing from ring gear. I didn't
understand the problem until Sat. as it has happened 3 times so far. Not
sure why batt. is going down yet either.
The plane is working great!!! Had minor oil leaks at first but all is fixed
and everything is seating in now. Right cylinders are 25 - 30deg cooler than
left with variation front to rear hardly noticeable (need to try some
experiments with air flow). Haven't take outlets to the Mag. and Alt. yet so
I'll take them from the right side and things may balance up some. CHT stays
around <= 350, EGT <=1350 with less than 30deg variation, OT is 180/185
normally, stays below 200 on climb and gets up to 210 at Alt (10K ish) with
high throttle setting, OP is 50-60 at idle and 85 at full throttle. Wood
prop climbs at about 1800 to 2000 (holding 2300RPM) off the deck and
maintains 1500+ through 4000ft, comfort cruse at 2500rpm yields around 160
KIAS and indicated seems correctly close to GPS ground with Alt. and wind
corrections. One go-around the other day down a 6000ft runway (starting at
200 feet off final, 70 KIAS, trimming at 4 feet and going to full up)
yielded (to the best of my ability to observe 4 feet above the ground) 180+
KIAS at 2700rpm at pull up (still accelerating). I believe I have pushed the
prop to 2900rpm before but I don't like that and don't let it run like that.
Basically, I think it needs more prop to harness more power but this prop is
a good compromise. I have tested most acro attitudes including inverted but
haven't really gotten into lots of maneuvers yet. Inverted was interesting -
first time the 2 inch Oil cap came off and needless to say, oil! oil! oil!,
everywhere: over canopy, down sides,in the wings and in the cockpit over my
legs (hot! hot! hot!). Only lost 1.5 qts though and got down without
problems, still have oil coming out of place you would never expect.
Re-testing shows no dumping on the belly (this could change with multiple
maneuvers, I have much to learn yet). Holding level while inverted is
difficult, requires much forward stick which is tough at first while hanging
upside down.
All testing to date shows great results much to my glee, and to some degree
of surprise. There were/are many unknowns to prove out yet. The Cowl fits
great with no interferences. It is now becoming easy to install and remove.
Engine is very strong and seems very reliable, no glitches. Had trouble
learning to start it at first but I'm getting the hang of it now. 4-into-1
exhaust sounds different than typical RV (in a good way). However, it's
burning the bottom since I got outlet so close to the fuse. It hasn't melted
the plexi window (yet) but has distorted the view and blackens shortly after
takeoff. I have a turndown which should resolve this issue. Fuel burn looks
like (with non-calibrated inst.) 14-16 GPH on climb and consistent 8.5 at
2400-2500 rpm (not bad for AIO-360-A and wood prop). Doesn't seem to use
much oil, 1qt every 10+ hours or so (as far as I can tell so far). The wood
prop is now an issues for W&B as utility comes into play. I designed for CS
prop so passenger is limited to 170lb no baggage with wood up front. I can
fix this for now by moving batt. up front (gets me to 190 passenger), plus
adding 11lb weight to the prop flywheel (increases to 200 pass + some
baggage). In any case it is a joy to fly, especially solo.
Randy has been asking for a report and this is the closest I've gotten. I
will copy him on this but suppose I should put something a bit more
organized together, don't like to sit and write. Ring gear has been ordered
and, I think the starter is OK, Need to contact LightSpeed to understand
this starting issue and hope the batt. is OK. Should be up again soon.
Bummer I missed my first fly-in breakfast. It was nice last Sat. too.
RV-4 is the best RV
Ask any RV owner and they'll either tell you so ... or ... find some reason
to not admit it.
Having 200+ HP doesn't hurt either...
Later, Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com [mailto:RobHickman(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-4
Mike,
Have you been flying your plane? I have not seen you around in a while.
-Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in an RV9? |
Support at Van's says that all the side-by-sides are the same design in
the firewall, now.
And it was added that this is the new improved design.
Barry POte
RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring |
Rick, As I stated yesterday our VM 1000 was wired when we purchased the total
package including the engine so I can only tell you how ours is wired.
Looking at the rear (the side near the VM1000 tearminal blocks) the black
shielded wire is at the top right , the green wire at the right bottom , the
white wire at the top left and the red wire at the bottom left. I know you
may not have the same color wiring but the fact that the shielded wire goes
to the top right may help.
Good luck
Rollie & Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | I want to fly......... |
Below is a letter that I quickly cobbled together and sent to my senators
and representative for the state of California.
I left a message with your office last week regarding garnering your
support in removing the restrictions placed on VFR pilots in Enhanced Class
B airspace. It was my understanding that a great many of your constituents
also called your office with similar requests. I was wondering what you
are doing on our behalf. I would very much like to see a more public show
of support from you and your office as has been shown by other senators
such as demonstrated below.
10/9/01 3:38:33 PM, ET Senator Jim Inhofe (R-Okla.) has introduced
legislation in the Senate (S. 1512) requiring the Administration to justify
immediately to Congress the continued airspace restrictions imposed on VFR
pilots in Class B airspace. Inhofe (a pilot, AOPA member, and one of
general aviation's strongest supporters) has also filed the legislation in
a way that allows for it to be offered as an amendment to pending Senate
legislation pertaining to aviation security.
AOPA President Phil Boyer had met with Sen. Inhofe last week to give
information and AOPA's encouragement for this amendment.
Their are many other examples of various elected officials coming out in
support of the VFR pilots. You can read of them yourself at:
http://www.aopa.org/
We hear over and over from our President and our elected officials that we
should continue our live in a normal way. However, President Bush's own
Security Council is denying VFR pilots of the right to do just
that. Please look into this situation and take a stand on our behalf.
You can get the names and E-mail address's of your elected officials at the
following web site: http://capwiz.com/rollcall/home/
Type in your zip code and up pops their information.
Good luck to us all and lets all hope that we don't have to reelect our
senators and representatives to get the support we expect and deserve.
Trapped in San Diego,
Scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | RV flyers and their Jobs |
Listers
I just thought I would bring your attention to the November issue of the
Smithsonian Air and Space magazine. The photo on the front and a good
artical inside is about a fleet of TBM Avengers that are still working as
fire fighting aircraft here is eastern Canada. They are about to be
retired. The chief pilot of the company and the pilot doing the flying in
most of the photos is Eric Bradley, who is an early RV4 owner. The four has
over 1200 hours on it now. Some guys have the best of both worlds do they
not?
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto timing |
Mike,
I think you're probably right about the points gap. I've decided to wait
for John Schwaner's book to arrive, & I hope that'll tell me what I need to
know to do the internal timing job - if not I'll find someone knowledgeable
to help.
I'll be back in Honolulu over Thanksgiving. Hope you're not finding the
Northwest too cold!
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
>
>Chris,
>
>Been a long time, or at least seems do, since we met in Hawaii.
>
>Have you checked the point gap? Point wear can also change the ignition
>timing.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
>
> >From: Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Magneto timing
> >Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >This weekend I started a 100 hr maintenance check on my 6A. On checking
> >the
> >magneto timing, I discovered that both mags had drifted out about 5
> >degrees, so
> >they were firing at 30 BTDC instead of 25. This was the first time I had
> >checked the timing in 291 hrs since the new engine installation - should
> >have
> >done it earlier, but I now have that item on my 100hr checklist.
> >
> >OK, so no problem bumping the mags back into position. But now the impulse
> >coupler on the right mag fires at about 5 degrees after TDC instead of at
> >TDC.
> >Is this likely to be a problem when starting? Is there an independent
> >external
> >adjustment?
> >
> >I've just ordered "The Magneto Ignition System" by John Schwaner, & hope to
> >get
> >further answers from that.
> >
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
> >West Bend, WI
> >RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
> >
> >
> >http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
> >
> >
>
>
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
dear listers,
i know i'm supposed to use 18 guage sheilded wires to the P lead on the
magnitos. my question is, how do you hook up the sheilding to the magnito, or
to the switch for that matter. it looks like there is only 1 place to hook up
the wire to the mag.
hep me , hep me.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | No RPM Drop during mag check? |
I have started running my IO-360 and doing taxi tests. The engine
sounds great and seems to produce full power, but I do not get any
reduction in RPM during the mag check. I am using a different firing
order that was suggested by Champion because the engine ran rough during
the mag checks last year when I first ran it. I checked the P-leads
with an Ohmmeter to the proper operation of the ignition switch. They
check out good. I can also shut the engine down by turning the key off.
I am going to check mag timing this weekend. Does anyone have any
other ideas?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | No RPM Drop during mag check? |
I have started running my IO-360 and doing taxi tests. The engine
sounds great and seems to produce full power, but I do not get any
reduction in RPM during the mag check. I am using a different firing
order that was suggested by Champion because the engine ran rough during
the mag checks last year when I first ran it. I checked the P-leads
with an Ohmmeter to the proper operation of the ignition switch. They
check out good. I can also shut the engine down by turning the key off.
I am going to check mag timing this weekend. Does anyone have any
other ideas?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Engine Ground Strap... |
Hi all...
What gauge wire do I need for my engine ground strap/wire? Also, I am using
Bob Nuckolls grounding blocks, one on the inside on the firewall bolted
through to one on the outside. Would it be ok to have just one ground
strap/wire going from the engine to this grounding block? Where are you all
putting the engine side of the grounding strap/wire?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Scott...
I just did this tonight... What I did was run the wire from the switch to
the mag, I used toggles for my mags, but it doesn't matter... Then I ran
the shield to ground at both ends... I have two grounding blocks on the
firewall, one on the inside and one on the outside bolted together, Nuckolls
style... I am running a ground wire to the blocks for every device...
I don't think it matters where you ground the shields, but everything I have
read says to ground them at both ends...
Hope this helps...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magneto wiring
dear listers,
i know i'm supposed to use 18 guage sheilded wires to the P lead on the
magnitos. my question is, how do you hook up the sheilding to the magnito,
or
to the switch for that matter. it looks like there is only 1 place to hook
up
the wire to the mag.
hep me , hep me.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto timing |
In a message dated 10/10/01 8:37:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I think you're probably right about the points gap. I've decided to wait
know to do the internal timing job - if not I'll find someone knowledgeable
to help.
I'll be back in Honolulu over Thanksgiving. Hope you're not finding the
Northwest too cold!
Regards,
Chris Good >>
Chris-
I don't think you will find enough detail in Schwaner's magneto book to do
this job unassisted by someone knowledgeable. I've got the book and although
it discusses the concepts, it stops short of being a "how to" description.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
In a message dated 10/10/01 8:54:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P lead on the
magnetos my question is, how do you hook up the shielding to the magneto, or
to the switch for that matter. it looks like there is only 1 place to hook
up
the wire to the mag. >>
Rather than describe it textually, this info is in the Tony Bingelis' books
and even much more completely in Bob Nuckolls' The Aeroelectric Connection.
Don't even try to wire your aircraft without this book.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
> Would it be ok to have just one ground
> strap/wire going from the engine to this grounding block?
That's all I have.
> Where are you all
> putting the engine side of the grounding strap/wire?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
There's a great tapped (1/4" I think) hole in the block just behind the
oil filler tube on my O360-A2A. Don't what it's for, but I cleaned off
the paint and bolted my ground cable there. Nice and close to the
firewall and grounding block.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
> In a message dated 10/10/01 8:54:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P lead
> on the magnetos
The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags, which
is what I used.
What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach Plate Holder |
A couple of weeks ago a question was posted about an approach plate holder.
I've just updated my web site with pictures and text about the one I made up
for my RV-6. Works great -- web site is
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html#plate. Also added a few
more things to the site, for anyone who's interested.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
Blanki came across this on the Tailwind list, i don't know Chuck or the
engine, Dennis Flamini N564DF Chicago RV-10----- Original Message -----
From: Cameron Watson
Subject: FW: Lycoming O360A1F6D 180 HP engine for sale
I have a used Lycoming O360A1F6D, 180 HP engine available if someone
wants to buy it for an experimental aircraft. It has about 1,900 hours
on it, is still flying just fine in my Cardinal and was just through its
annual in September. I am replacing it with a Lycoming factory overhaul
when it arrives about a month from now. If no one is interested in it,
I will send my engine to Lycoming as a core. I would sell this engine
as is for $9,500 complete with dual magneto, starter, plugs and wires,
plus carb heat airbox and electric HotPadd sump heater. If you are
interested, please call Chuck Cornell at 319-268-2969 or e-mail me at
cornell.chuck(at)cfu.net.
Dennis and Fran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james small" <james(at)jsmall.flyer.co.uk> |
Hi Guy,
I would appreciete some input. I have finished my RV6A and have fitted a
Navaid Devices wing leveller / autopilot with a Smart coupler to my GPS.
I have fitted the servo under the passenger floor. The system works well
and tracks my GPS without fault but i do have to hold a fair amount of
bias onto the stick to damp out the constant "jitter" . I have tried
reducing the span without much success and Navaid has suggested fitting
a 5 ohm resistor in series with the sevo motor, has anyone tried this?
or should i be lookin elseware. Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks Jim Small G-BXVM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
Hi Mike,
I bought mine from Van's. Came in about a 20 foot piece.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magneto wiring
>
>
> > In a message dated 10/10/01 8:54:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P lead
> > on the magnetos
>
> The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags, which
> is what I used.
>
> What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
bill
i have the van's ignition key set up. is there a terminal on it for grounding
the sheilds of the mag p lead wire? i will ground the mag end to the block.
thanks
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
mike,
i ordered mag p-lead wire from vans and that is what they sent. other than
that i have no other referrance.
scott
tampa
about to fire this baby up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Jim,
I haven't flown yet but my Navaid jittered whenever I turned it on to WL
mode until I applied a light pressure to the ailerons. I put the resistor
in and no more jitter. Navaid sent it to me with instructions upon request
and free of charge.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: james small <james(at)jsmall.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: RV6-List:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "james small"
>
> Hi Guy,
>
> I would appreciete some input. I have finished my RV6A and have fitted a
> Navaid Devices wing leveller / autopilot with a Smart coupler to my GPS.
> I have fitted the servo under the passenger floor. The system works well
> and tracks my GPS without fault but i do have to hold a fair amount of
> bias onto the stick to damp out the constant "jitter" . I have tried
> reducing the span without much success and Navaid has suggested fitting
> a 5 ohm resistor in series with the sevo motor, has anyone tried this?
> or should i be lookin elseware. Any comments would be appreciated.
> Thanks Jim Small G-BXVM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
| Subject: | Drain Oil Cooler? |
I noticed recently on a friend's 172 that his oil cooler had a
T-fitting, which he said was for mandatory draining of the cooler at oil
changes. Since my cooler location is similar (low on firewall), I
wondered if draining would be a good idea. I hesitate to simply
disconnect the hose fitting as this would cause unnecessary flexing in
the line but consider installation of a T-fitting adding a possible
failure mode. I have a spin-on oil filter and change my oil at 20 hour
intervals but maybe I need to be more vigilant about oil contaminants.
Do you folks with firewall-mounted coolers drain 'em?
Jim RV6 223JH 0360/CS flying 148 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Temporary Paint or White Film for Canopy |
Fliers and Builders,
I am trying to find a temporary white paint or NON-vinyl based film for
covering the area above the pilot/Px' s head. I want to cover the area and
test fly and then decide if I want to permanently paint that area.
Yes, Van's sells the Koger sunshade, but I am locking for a better "shade
trap", since the central rail really messes up the beautiful view and lines
of the tip-up. Also, I am aware of the cling on films some fliers use.
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| Final tasks for final inspections!
(Hoping that the Class B restrictions will be lifted soon))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
Bob Nuckoll's essential book on wiring has already been mentioned, and
his advise (page 16-13) is to ground the p-lead shields at one end only.
This supposedly inhibits their tendency to radiate RFI.
The shield on the switch end is used as the return to the mag, so when
the engine is running, the switch end of the shield is ungrounded.
This is clearly defined in the text of Bob's book and in the wiring
schematics.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with 'Lectric Bob's wiring architecture)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=============================
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Scott...
>
> I just did this tonight... What I did was run the wire from the switch to
> the mag, I used toggles for my mags, but it doesn't matter... Then I ran
> the shield to ground at both ends... I have two grounding blocks on the
> firewall, one on the inside and one on the outside bolted together, Nuckolls
> style... I am running a ground wire to the blocks for every device...
>
> I don't think it matters where you ground the shields, but everything I have
> read says to ground them at both ends...
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
I bought the braided ground strap from Bob as well. It is very light, cool
looking, and easy to bend around corners and such. You can hook it to any
engine bolt. I think I bolted mine to the magneto studs. It then runs back
to the Bob's ground block on the firewall. That is the only ground that I
have and it works perfectly.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Ground Strap...
Hi all...
What gauge wire do I need for my engine ground strap/wire? Also, I am using
Bob Nuckolls grounding blocks, one on the inside on the firewall bolted
through to one on the outside. Would it be ok to have just one ground
strap/wire going from the engine to this grounding block? Where are you all
putting the engine side of the grounding strap/wire?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drain Oil Cooler? |
> I have a spin-on oil filter and change my oil at 20 hour
> intervals but maybe I need to be more vigilant about oil contaminants.
> Do you folks with firewall-mounted coolers drain 'em?
>
I don't. Since adding my spin-on filter, plumbed in series with the oil
cooler because it was easiest to retro-fit that way, I have extended my
change interval from 25 to 50 hours.
Obviously, there is a good 1/2 qt of old oil retained and mixed with new at
the oil change. As far as I can tell, this presents only a minor problem
with interpretation of oil analysis results. If there was a problem with not
replacing a small amount that old oil _per se_, then it shouldn't have been
allowed in the engine _before_ the oil change :-)
Even without the cooler and plumbing being drained, there is always some old
oil retained in the innards of the engine at oil change time. I think we
just live with that. I bet you get lots of strongly-held opinions on wht to
do here, and what interval to change at, and what brands and additives to
use. There's probably more voodoo surrounding engine oil than anywhere else
in avaition.
Just one pilot's opinion. I'm not an A&P and don't play one on TV, nor did I
sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night. YMMV.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
Bill,
Buy a custom braided ground strap from Lectric Bob. Run it from the boss on
the engine case just behind the oil filler to the ground block. You can see
mine at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-536x.jpg
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
>
> Hi all...
>
> What gauge wire do I need for my engine ground strap/wire? Also, I am
using
> Bob Nuckolls grounding blocks, one on the inside on the firewall bolted
> through to one on the outside. Would it be ok to have just one ground
> strap/wire going from the engine to this grounding block? Where are you
all
> putting the engine side of the grounding strap/wire?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
Install the resistor it worked on mine.
Garry "Casper"
james small wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "james small"
>
> Hi Guy,
>
> I would appreciete some input. I have finished my RV6A and have fitted a
> Navaid Devices wing leveller / autopilot with a Smart coupler to my GPS.
> I have fitted the servo under the passenger floor. The system works well
> and tracks my GPS without fault but i do have to hold a fair amount of
> bias onto the stick to damp out the constant "jitter" . I have tried
> reducing the span without much success and Navaid has suggested fitting
> a 5 ohm resistor in series with the sevo motor, has anyone tried this?
> or should i be lookin elseware. Any comments would be appreciated.
> Thanks Jim Small G-BXVM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Paint or White Film for Canopy |
How about using the spray-on plexiglass protector some people use during
building? My ACS catalog shows it as Spray-Lat Plexiglass Protector, P/N
03-54900. I think it's translucent but I imagine you could paint over it.
Personally I really like the flexibility of the koger sunshade. I do have a
slider so the rail's not an issue, but I'd think the rail would be much
preferred to a permanent covering.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 Pressure Transducer Wiring |
Rick wwe also seemed to have solved our problem. I have sent a message to
the VM1000 manufactuer requesting a manual so we should have our other
answers. I also noticed that the information I provided was not as clear as
I wanted. I am glad you found a better answer.
Thanks again
Rollie &Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Who would be the best supplier of Marhyde.
I found some here in the local area but
its quite expensive. About $17 US per spray
can. Whats the normal price?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
Kingston, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
That hole you are talking about next to the oil filler tube is for the
engine baffling. But seeing as how you have to make the baffling it
shouldn't cause any problems putting the ground strap there.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Ground Strap...
>Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 22:55:39 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>There's a great tapped (1/4" I think) hole in the block just behind the
>oil filler tube on my O360-A2A. Don't what it's for, but I cleaned off
>the paint and bolted my ground cable there. Nice and close to the
>firewall and grounding block.
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Firewall Forward
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
When I bought a case I beat em down to about 12 bucks a can. That was
from an autobody supply co.
steve
Who would be the best supplier of Marhyde.
I found some here in the local area but
its quite expensive. About $17 US per spray
can. Whats the normal price?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
Kingston, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marhyde Price? |
Steve,
Per a 2-time RV builder, Jim Cone, I have been using a Marhyde type of
primer. It's a self-etching metal primer in a light grey color, and I get
it from a Sherwin-Williams auto paint supply store. I don't have the number
on the can with me (I'm at work), but if you are interested, I can send it
to you. This stuff works well, and I believe a case (24 cans) is about
$30.00 U.S. Lots better than the price you stated for Marhyde.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting)
>From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Marhyde Price?
>Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:25:43 -0400
>
>
>Who would be the best supplier of Marhyde.
>I found some here in the local area but
>its quite expensive. About $17 US per spray
>can. Whats the normal price?
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>RV-7A
>Kingston, Ont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
We have the wings on and the Chief built panel in our RV8a QB. We are
pretty much just waiting for the engine from Lycoming. We are having
some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
allot of metal.
What have others done, do balancing balls work?
The panel has a GPS but I would still like to have a compass for backup
on cross country trips.
Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
plane in place of painting on the strips?
Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
NX54LF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I think you are going to find that there is no good place to mount a wet
compass in an -8(a). And the little dingle berry balls don't seem to help
at all. A lot of the -8 and -8A builder's seem to be going with a remote
flux gate compass. After trying different locations for a wet comapss I
finally broke down and bought the remote compass module for my MicroEncoder.
The module mounted in the belly under the pilot's seat and has worked
perfectly from day 1.
FWIW,We changed the read out on our GPS to read true north just because it
made it easier to read headings from the sections based on lat/long without
having to convert for deviations and variations.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV8a
>Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 09:55:05 -0700
>
>
>We have the wings on and the Chief built panel in our RV8a QB. We are
>pretty much just waiting for the engine from Lycoming. We are having
>some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
>panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
>could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
>allot of metal.
>What have others done, do balancing balls work?
>
>The panel has a GPS but I would still like to have a compass for backup
>on cross country trips.
>
>Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
>plane in place of painting on the strips?
>Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
>NX54LF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
You might want to consider the 2 1/4" Richie Remote Mount compass from West
Marine, around $150.00. I mounted the sender outboard of my fuel tank. It
works great. Be sure to specify the black bezel or they will ship you a
white one.
Garry "Casper"
lorin l frank wrote:
>
> We have the wings on and the Chief built panel in our RV8a QB. We are
> pretty much just waiting for the engine from Lycoming. We are having
> some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
> panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
> could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
> allot of metal.
> What have others done, do balancing balls work?
>
> The panel has a GPS but I would still like to have a compass for backup
> on cross country trips.
>
> Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
> plane in place of painting on the strips?
> Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
> NX54LF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
I originally used 20ga P-lead wire's per Electric Bob's book. They looked
and felt flimsy to me so I replaced them with 18ga wire. The shield is
grounded to one of the mag cover screws. The switch end of the P-lead shield
is not grounded.
Be sure to snap out the impulse couplers before trying to check the mag
timing. The retarded function of the impulse coupler is mechanical and not
adjustable.
Cash Copeland
A&P RV6
>
>
>
> > In a message dated 10/10/01 8:54:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P lead
> > on the magnetos
>
> The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags, which
> is what I used.
>
> What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
Use the same size as your battery cable. On my engine I used a 1/4" hole
located next to the oil filler tube safety wire hole. The other end is to
the ground block bolt sticking through the firewall.
Cash Copeland
RV6
>
>
> Hi all...
>
> What gauge wire do I need for my engine ground strap/wire? Also, I am using
> Bob Nuckolls grounding blocks, one on the inside on the firewall bolted
> through to one on the outside. Would it be ok to have just one ground
> strap/wire going from the engine to this grounding block? Where are you all
> putting the engine side of the grounding strap/wire?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
FYI, per the archives, Jim used epoxy primer on the second RV after
discovering all the Marhyde primed steel parts on his first RV all had rust
underneath.
Don't know about the SW stuff. Hey...let's start another primer thread .
Rob Acker, RV-6, some Marhyde'd steel parts :(
>
> Steve,
>
> Per a 2-time RV builder, Jim Cone, I have been using a Marhyde type of
> primer. It's a self-etching metal primer in a light grey color, and I
> get it from a Sherwin-Williams auto paint supply store. I don't have
> the number on the can with me (I'm at work), but if you are
> interested, I can send it to you. This stuff works well, and I
> believe a case (24 cans) is about $30.00 U.S. Lots better than the
> price you stated for Marhyde.
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October 03, 2001 - October 11, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lq