RV-Archive.digest.vol-lr
October 11, 2001 - October 16, 2001
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price |
lowered!)
Jared:
I am very interested in buying your Horizontal Stab. Kit. But i live in Kentucky.
If we could figure out how to ship it I would buy it tomorrow. Al Grajek. algrajek(at)msn.com
858-361-9460
----- Original Message -----
From: Jared Boone
roups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV8-List: For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price lowered!)
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jared Boone"
[OK, I really just want to get rid of my RV-8 HS parts, so I've dropped the
price to "ridiculously low". Read on...]
When the RV-7 came out, I decided to convert my RV-8 empennage to an RV-7,
leaving me with a mostly-completed RV-8 horizontal stabilizer. I need more
space in my garage as I get ready for the wing kit, so...
I'm selling my RV-8 HS parts as a set for $75.00 (not including shipping).
I'd prefer to sell to someone close enough to Beaverton, OR that I won't
have to figure out how to ship it, but it's no big deal to ship the stuff
either. According to Van's current prices, the set of raw parts is worth
about $450 new, so this is a pretty good deal, methinks. If you think
otherwise, make me an offer!
Most everything has already been cut, drilled, bent, countersunk, dimpled,
fluted to the point where priming and riveting the skeleton would be next.
This includes cut, drilled, and bent HS-610/810, 814, and HS-602s.
Workmanship is good -- definitely airworthy.
Here's a description of what I've got:
2 x HS-404 RIB-ROOT FWD
2 x HS-405 RIB-ROOT MAIN
4 x HS-412PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
4 x HS-413PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
2 x HS-602 SPAR - FWD
2 x HS-603PP HORIZ. REAR SPAR
2 x HS-606 RIB-TIP
2 x HS-607 RIB-CENTER FWD
2 x HS-608 RIB-CENTER MAIN
2 x HS-609PP PP FLANGE STRIPS
1 x AA6-125X3/4X3/4X17 AL. ANGLE HS-610/810
2 x HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN
1 x HS-814 PRE-CUT UNIT
1 x 8 PLANS EMP SET EMPENNAGE PLANS SET
Parts not included because I reused them on my RV-7 kit:
2 x HS-411BPP-PC HINGE BRACKET
1 x VA-146 FLANGE BEARING
Assorted rivets and bolts
Contact me at jboone(at)earfeast.com or (503) 466-2877 for more information.
- Jared Boone
RV-7 Empennage
Beaverton, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
I got my information on grounding at both ends from two different
Bengalis books... What difference does it make?
Does it matter where the shielding is grounded? I ran mine back to the
grounding block from both the mags and the switch...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8a |
> We are having
> some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
> panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
> could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
> allot of metal.
> What have others done, do balancing balls work?
I mounted mine on the glareshield in my RV-8. The built-in compass
compensation screws worked well and I was able to swing it within a degree
on all headings. Be sure and turn everything on and close your canopy when
swinging it. Closing my canopy caused a 5 degree error and turning on the
electri gyros caused another 5 degree error. Running the engine made do
difference at all.
You might want to consider having your roll bar deguassed if it's not
permanently mounted... good insurance.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 133 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
Norman,
Something that unison doesn't really make clear is that their system is
a magneto that is electronically optimally timed. The Lightspeed system is
capacitive discharge which has a 4 times hotter spark and is of course
optimally timed. It also costs a lot less and weighs a lot less. It only
requires 5 volts to operate so if your alternator quits you have a long time
to get on the ground.
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
The reason you only want to hook up one end of the shield is that IF you
somehow loose the connection of the main ground strap from engine block to
ground, and both ends of the shields are hooked up to ground, then this
becomes the best ground path. So, when you hit the starter, both mag wires
burn. At the least, you will have to rewire these, and at the worst, lots of
other stuff burns.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RE: RV-List: Magneto wiring
I got my information on grounding at both ends from two different
Bengalis books... What difference does it make?
Does it matter where the shielding is grounded? I ran mine back to the
grounding block from both the mags and the switch...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
The difference that grounding a shielded wire at both ends makes is that
this can set up what is called a 'ground loop' and results in radiation of
the very thing you are trying to suppress.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
10/11/2001 04:46:29 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/11/2001 04:46:29 PM
Not to mention that if the mag wires burn, the mags are now hot with no
way to shut them off.
Scott
RV6 wings
"John & Teresa Huft"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/11/2001 01:47 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Magneto wiring
The reason you only want to hook up one end of the shield is that IF you
somehow loose the connection of the main ground strap from engine block to
ground, and both ends of the shields are hooked up to ground, then this
becomes the best ground path. So, when you hit the starter, both mag wires
burn. At the least, you will have to rewire these, and at the worst, lots
of
other stuff burns.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RE: RV-List: Magneto wiring
I got my information on grounding at both ends from two different
Bengalis books... What difference does it make?
Does it matter where the shielding is grounded? I ran mine back to the
grounding block from both the mags and the switch...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Lorin;
You should be able to find vinyl striping from a good auto body shop. They
use "pin striping" tape to break and/or highlight adjacent colours on cars.
If what you are looking for are wider stripes to actually take the place of
a 2", 3", or wider painted areas then you might look to a sign shop
specializing in truck or van lettering as most of that is done these days
with computer cut vinyl shapes. They should be able to make up any shape and
colour you wish.
Bob McC
lorin l frank wrote:
Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
plane in place of painting on the strips?
> Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
> NX54LF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
about $24 cdn.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
> Sent: October 11, 2001 9:26 AM
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Marhyde Price?
>
>
> Who would be the best supplier of Marhyde.
> I found some here in the local area but
> its quite expensive. About $17 US per spray
> can. Whats the normal price?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV-7A
> Kingston, Ont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
lorin l frank wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
> plane in place of painting on the strips?
> Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
> NX54LF
>
Might give Van a call as most of the stripping on the RV-7 and RV-9
is vinyl. BTW just curious about your registration number. Is the X
taking the place of the word experimental. I am under the impression
that the X is only good if you are copying a design that is 30 over
30 years old?
Jerry S
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/11/2001 7:08:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca writes:
> You should be able to find vinyl striping from a good auto body shop. They
> use "pin striping" tape to break and/or highlight adjacent colours on cars.
> If what you are looking for are wider stripes to actually take the place of
> a 2", 3", or wider painted areas then you might look to a sign shop
> specializing in truck or van lettering as most of that is done these days
> with computer cut vinyl shapes. They should be able to make up any shape and
> colour you wish.
Vinyal graphics for stripes, cheaper and lighters then paint and u can
change the stripes when ever u want.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Windscreen canopy gap (RV6A slider) |
Hello!
I have been looking through the archives to find out what gap is best
between the windscreen Plexiglass and the canopy Plexiglass.
The dimension I'm seeking is that wich will exist where they almost meet
when all the final fitting is done.
The Gap I have at present Is about 3/32" at the bottom on both sides
narrowing to about 1/16" across the top at the center.
It seems to me that a uniform 1/8" to 3/16" would be better, would a
1/4" gap be too much?
Questions-
Should I increase this dimention to more than 3/16" to compensate for
the expansion of the plexiglass because of seasonal and altitude related
tenperature changes.
I can lower the rear of the canopy frame .032 at the rear UHMW plastic
canopy guides by removing the last of the I spacers installed during the
rear skirt fitting session. This would help at the front a small amount.
it would however make the rear skirts so tight that getting the canopy
fully closed a bit more difficult, though I expect that after a couple
of hundred closings the fit will loosen up a bit as things settle in.
Thanks in advance,
Jim in Kelowna - Air frame almost complete 85% left to be done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery for RV Builders |
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Magneto Current Draw, Was Magneto wiring |
> > << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P
> > lead on the magnetos
> >
> The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags,
> which is what I used.
>
> What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
>
> Mike Thompson
OK. Let's see if someone knows what current draw the magnetos pull
from the 12 volt line. Then we'll know if something heavier than 20
Gauge is warranted.
I checked Tony's Firewall Forward, BTW - 16 AWG!!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Info for those thinking of using screws instead of rivets in their canopy.
I was doing some work on the canopy when I noticed a couple of hairline
cracks. After checking the entire canopy I found a total of seven cracks
all on the left rear side coming from five holes. I spent three months a
year ago building that thing and was really disappointed to find those
cracks. And my airplane isn't even flying yet! I used screws instead of
pop rivets thinking it would put less stress on the plastic. I guess I was
wrong. Now I'll have to bite the bullet and drill a bunch of holes in my
beautiful canopy.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ major painting done, now canopy rework
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Current Draw, Was Magneto wiring |
There is no current draw. The magneto is totally self contained. The
wire hook up for a magneto is to ground its primary side out, so it
stops generating it's own electricity. The reason most people use a
heavier gauge wire is to insure against the wire breaking.
Hope this helps.
Garry "Casper"
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> > > << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P
> > > lead on the magnetos
> > >
> > The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags,
> > which is what I used.
> >
> > What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
> >
> > Mike Thompson
>
> OK. Let's see if someone knows what current draw the magnetos pull
> from the 12 volt line. Then we'll know if something heavier than 20
> Gauge is warranted.
> I checked Tony's Firewall Forward, BTW - 16 AWG!!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Current Draw, Was Magneto wiring |
>
> > > << i know i'm supposed to use 18 gauge shielded wires to the P
> > > lead on the magnetos
> > >
> > The Zx diagrams in Bob's book show 20 gauge from switch to mags,
> > which is what I used.
> >
> > What's your source to use 18? I may need to upgrade!
> >
> > Mike Thompson
>
>
>OK. Let's see if someone knows what current draw the magnetos pull
>from the 12 volt line. Then we'll know if something heavier than 20
>Gauge is warranted.
>I checked Tony's Firewall Forward, BTW - 16 AWG!!
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Firewall Forward
What 12 volts?? No power required for the mags. You're simply switching
engine case ground on and off to the magneto coils. That's all. Current is
very low. Use tefzel, shielded 18AWG. That's what I have in my
airplane...on the one remaining mag. It's going bye-bye when it craps out
for another Lightspeed!
Electronic ignition rules. So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
258 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | K&N filter: when to clean? |
Lister dudes,
Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter that
is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two years,
and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea when
to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website about
how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
258 hrs and 2nd annual is due. How time flies when you're having fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Magneto wiring |
I bought Vans "wiring harness" for the 6 a year ago. I ended up not using
any of the wires except the short fat ones, and one of the p leads. Van's p
leads are 20G, shielded, and the shield on one end is simply cut off and
covered with heat-shrink. Thus, Van's pre-fabricated p-lead does not allow
for grounding both sides.
LightSpeed calls for either 18 or 20G to run their system (although it is
electronic and not a magneto... is current draw similar??)
Meanwhile, I've been reading Bob's book and web site since I too am wiring
one magneto (and one CDI) this week. His schematic for using toggle switches
to run two magnetos can be seen on this page:
http://209.134.106.21/articles/sos_v3.pdf
Note that he calls for 20G. He also addresses the issue of grounding both
sides of the shielding, saying "Connection of P-lead shields to any other
conductor in the cockpit may cause magneto noise in radios..." He implies
that only one side of the shielding should be grounded, as others have said
on this thread (for different reasons).
jim
Tampa
wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
In a message dated 10/11/2001 10:43:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter that
> is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two years,
> and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea
> when
> to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
> install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website
> about
> how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
Never blow out with compressor, u need a new one, u need to clean them with
filter cleaner and reoil, should be done yearly I know i clean my yearly
only crotchrockets and weekly on the dirtbikes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Lister dudes,
>
> Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N
> filter that
> is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two
> years,
> and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no
> idea when
> to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it
> and
> install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N
> website about
> how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 258 hrs and 2nd annual is due. How time flies when you're having
> fun.
Brian:
I clean my filter every about every year. My airplane flys 200-350
hours per year. (335 past 12 months.) Cleaned it the first time with
only 100 hours. It was still kind of clean. I never blow it out with
air. When it is so dirty that you cannot see light through it when
held to the light, I clean it.
Yes the filter does work better when it is dirty but will have a higher
pressure drop thus less manifold pressure.
See you at Las Cruces in 2 weeks.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
959+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Paint or White Film for Canopy |
In a message dated 10/11/01 10:04:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Fliers and Builders,
I am trying to find a temporary white paint or NON-vinyl based film for
covering the area above the pilot/Px' s head. >>
Many auto dealers "write" on car windows using white liquid antacid (yeah,
the kind you take when you've got acid stomach). It paints on like white
tempra (?) paint, and should be easy to wash off if you don't like it.
Remember to WASH it off using plenty of water. It seems abrasive enough to
scratch the canopy if you try to scrub it off.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
Hello Brian,
According to K&N their filter should not be blown clean with any amount of
air pressure. Air pressure at close quarters could separate or otherwise
damage the cloth filter medium thereby reducing the filters effectiveness.
If my memory serves me correctly they advise washing the filter in a mild
detergent solution, allowing it to dry then re-charging the filter with the
oily product that they supply.
For more accurate information go to almost any one of the major aftermarket
auto suppliers. They should have the product and data you'll need.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: K&N filter: when to clean?
>
> Lister dudes,
>
> Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter
that
> is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two
years,
> and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea
when
> to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
> install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website
about
> how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 258 hrs and 2nd annual is due. How time flies when you're having fun.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> The system works well
> and tracks my GPS without fault but i do have to hold a fair amount of
> bias onto the stick to damp out the constant "jitter" . I have tried
> reducing the span without much success and Navaid has suggested fitting
> a 5 ohm resistor in series with the sevo motor, has anyone tried this?
Not flying yet but I took mine apart and added the resistor. Norman. Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
In a message dated 10/11/01 8:05:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
<< Bob Nuckoll's essential book on wiring has already been mentioned, and
his advise (page 16-13) is to ground the p-lead shields at one end only.
This supposedly inhibits their tendency to radiate RFI.
The shield on the switch end is used as the return to the mag, so when
the engine is running, the switch end of the shield is ungrounded.
This is clearly defined in the text of Bob's book and in the wiring
schematics. >>
This is absolutely correct. Don't do it any other way. Think about it.
If the switch end sees any other ground besides that conducted thru the
shielding (from the case of the magneto at the other end) and the ground
strap from your engine to the airframe becomes compromised however briefly in
any way at any time, guess what?, the engine for that instant gets its only
ground (maybe during cranking the starter) thru the P-lead shields. They
make great fuses. Next time you go near your plane you have hot mag(s). A
bad deal all the way around.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Paint or White Film for Canopy |
In a message dated 10/11/01 9:51:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< > Koger sunshade....snip....
> the central rail really messes up the beautiful view and lines
> of the tip-up.
Is this true? I was planning to go with the Koger in my tip up. Does the
center rail impede vision? >>
No way, and I have a RV-6A slider.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Paint or White Film for Canopy |
In a message dated 10/11/01 9:51:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< > Koger sunshade....snip....
> the central rail really messes up the beautiful view and lines
> of the tip-up.
Is this true? I was planning to go with the Koger in my tip up. Does the
center rail impede vision? >>
No way, and I have a RV-6A slider.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen canopy gap (RV6A slider) |
> I have been looking through the archives to find out what gap is best
> between the windscreen Plexiglass and the canopy Plexiglass.
[snip]
Since you have a slider, the fairing will cover the gap so it isn't all that
important that it be uniform. I'd say 1/16" - 3/32" would be about right. Do
worry about making the edge smooth, with really really fine sandpaper (like,
up to 2000 grit even), so it won't ever decide to crack -- gotta do what you
can in that cold BC weather!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james small" <james(at)jsmall.flyer.co.uk> |
Re aileron jitter with Navaid wing leveller.
Thanks for the replies, i have flown the aircraft 90 hours now and have been
reluctant to use the autopilot dueto the jitter in the air. As the resistor
seems to help i will instal it as soon as i can and give it a try.
Thanks for the replies
Jim Small G-BXVM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8a - Vinyl Leeting |
Lorin - All,
We used Woodward Sign Center - Phil FOx @ (281) 461-4600.
He worked with us - sent numerouos drawings and matched the paint colors we
used. Our RV-8A is painted and decaled using the USN Blue Angels. The Blue
Angles were great in providing paint and decal info.
Phil's decals were gret and very reasonable.
As a side note Woodward did Chuck Yegar's P-51 decals.
I can forward pictures of the decals if anyone is interested. BTW their
tuirnaround time was super.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Flying - 20hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV8a
>Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 09:55:05 -0700
>
>
>We have the wings on and the Chief built panel in our RV8a QB. We are
>pretty much just waiting for the engine from Lycoming. We are having
>some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
>panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
>could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
>allot of metal.
>What have others done, do balancing balls work?
>
>The panel has a GPS but I would still like to have a compass for backup
>on cross country trips.
>
>Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
>plane in place of painting on the strips?
>Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
>NX54LF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will James <JamesAirDiv1(at)netscape.net> |
| Subject: | James Aircraft RV-6 Cowl--From the Source |
It would seem that there is some confusion concerning the suitability
and function of the Barnard Designed RV-6 cowling manufactured by James
Aircraft. While the very kind comments pertaining to the quality of
workmanship are very much appreciated, there remains a certain current
of adverse concern which stands in need of correction. Approximately
thirty-five of these cowlings have been produced; all from the original
molds. Most were purchased by builders nearing the completion of their
projects. A major source of personal satisfaction has been the absolute
lack of customer complaint concerning this product. All report ease of
installation and performance enhancement at or above advertised with the
exception of two customers. Both problems were the result of not using
specified components. If any person describes any level of
dissatisfaction with the James Aircraft RV-6 cowling, please apply this
simple litmus test: Did you follow the directions? There can be only
one answer.
Please direct comment or questions to: JamesAirDiv1(at)netscape.net or
850-342-9929.
Thank you,
Will James
James Aircraft Division 1
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/11/01 |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/12/2001 08:04:00 AM
LP Aero plastics makes a compass mount block that attaches to the
windshield. They are relatively inexpensive and they may provide a
solution- normally they are used in Cessna aircraft. They list for 30.00 ,
LP can be reached at 800-957-2376.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Another source of high quality vinyl, computer cut vinyl (various patterns),
screen printed vinyl etc. is from companies that due "fleet graphics" . . .
panel trucks, trucks, etc. They tend to be a bit more knowledgeable and
have wider selections/capabilities than auto body shops.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8a
>
> Lorin;
>
> You should be able to find vinyl striping from a good auto body shop. They
> use "pin striping" tape to break and/or highlight adjacent colours on
cars.
> If what you are looking for are wider stripes to actually take the place
of
> a 2", 3", or wider painted areas then you might look to a sign shop
> specializing in truck or van lettering as most of that is done these days
> with computer cut vinyl shapes. They should be able to make up any shape
and
> colour you wish.
>
> Bob McC
>
> lorin l frank wrote:
> Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
> plane in place of painting on the strips?
>
> > Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
> > NX54LF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
> Bob Nuckoll's essential book on wiring has already been mentioned, and
> his advise (page 16-13) is to ground the p-lead shields at one end only.
> This supposedly inhibits their tendency to radiate RFI.
Also, in the unlikely event (no it never happens) that you forget to reconnect
the main ground wire to the engine and hit the starter, all the starter current
will be prevented from flowing through the p-lead shields.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Cole" <cole(at)iei.net> |
Date: 9/26/01 9:14 AM
From: Mick Pahnke
Although rare, this is something we should all consider when working in your
shop areas. Anyone who has seen this reaction has always come away quite
impressed.
-Date: September 21, 2001
Identifier: 2001-RL-HNF-0036
Lessons Learned Statement:
Aluminum grinding dust can create a serious explosive fire hazard when it
is
mixed with steel or iron grinding dust.
Discussion of Activities:
A safety coordinator at the Esso Oil Company plant in Longford,
Australia,
was using a belt grinder in his home workshop to smooth the edge of a
hacksaw cut on a 2" length of 1.5" angle iron. He had been grinding for
about 1.5 to 2 minutes when there was a loud "THUMP" accompanied by an
approximately 2-foot diameter brilliant yellow orange fireball. The
fireball lasted no more than 1 second and then completely extinguished
itself. It completely enveloped the machine, his hands to half way up
his
forearms, and the front of his torso.
Injuries included deep second-degree burns to about 60% of the victim's
left
hand and 50% of his right hand and first degree burns to his neck, chin,
cheeks, lips, and the end of his nose. The right cuff of his shirt was
smoldering, his face felt a burning sensation, and he could hear the
front
of his hair sizzling. Nothing on the bench was burning. A few streaks
of
white powder were deposited on the bench top and on a few items lying on
the
bench. The workshop was filled with dense white smoke with very little
odor. The man's fingers and the ends of his thumbs escaped relatively
unscathed as they were protected from the heat flash. He was wearing
glasses, which protected his eyes. He also lost half his moustache, one
of
his eyebrows, and about 1 inch off the front of his hair. His eyelashes
were curled by the heat but not singed. The burns to his face were
caused
solely by radiant heat, as the fireball did not come that high.
Analysis: A few days before the event, the man's son had ground the heads
off about
twelve aluminum pop rivets. Finely divided aluminum mixed with finely
divided ferrous oxide (the black powder residue from grinding steel)
produced a compound called thermite. Thermite is used to fill incendiary
bombs and is used commercially to weld large steel items. It burns at
approximately 3500C (6300F), hence the extensive burns from such a short
exposure time. Recommended Actions: The victim recommended that the
manufacturer of the grinding wheel should
include a very strong warning about the dangers posed by grinding steel
after having ground aluminum. That warning should include precautions to
thoroughly clean the grinding machine of all aluminum dust before
grinding
iron or steel.
Estimated Savings/Cost Avoidance: N/A
Priority Descriptor: YELLOW/Caution
Work / Function: Machining and Fabrication
Hanford Functional Categories: N/A
Hazard: Fire / Smoke
ISM Core Function: Analyze Hazards; Develop/Implement Controls
Originator:
Bruce Robinson, Longford Plant Safety Coordinator; Longford Ext. 6348;
Fax
(03)5149 6496. Introduced into the DOE LL system by Fluor Hanford, Inc.
Contact: Project Hanford Lessons Learned Coordinator; (509) 373-7664; FAX
376-6112; e-mail: PHMC_Lessons_Learned(at)rl.gov
Authorized Derivative Classifier: Not required
Reviewing Official: John Bickford
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
FOLLOW-UP ACTIONS: Information in this report is accurate to the best of
our
knowledge. As a means of measuring the effectiveness of this report,
please
contact the originator of significant actions taken as a result of this
report or of any technical inaccuracies you find. Your feedback is
appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Anybody know where I can get a bat style toggle switch that I can use to
switch between the two front cyls and two back cyls of CHT? I don't
really want to use a rotary switch... I am assuming the toggle would
have to have at least 10 connections on the back...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Bill,
That sounds like an unusually configured toggle switch - I've never seen
one like that. IMHO I suggest using a standard SPST/SPDT toggle switch
to energize a relay(s) to switch all the connection you need. If you get
some type of sealed relay, then you get the added benefit of not getting
oxidized contacts for consistently clean switching.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Subject: RV-List: Toggle Switch
Anybody know where I can get a bat style toggle switch that I can use to
switch between the two front cyls and two back cyls of CHT? I don't
really want to use a rotary switch... I am assuming the toggle would
have to have at least 10 connections on the back...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Large #2 wire firewall passthru thingie |
Somewhere I read of a firewall mounted insulated stud where you can bolt
on wire on each side of the stud. The stud of course being insulated. My
battery #2 wire is using a grommit now and the angle of the wire and
stress on the grommit is causing some discomfort in me...I don't want a
short here. Does anyone know where I can get one of those insulated
studs ( Elect. Bobs site didn't have it....) H E L P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | James Aircraft RV-6 Cowl--From the Source |
Listers,
I had a very positive conversation with Sam James yesterday and I told him I
would let the list know of our discussions.
Sam and Will both acknowledge that their cowl for the RV-6 is sold with the
provision that it will fit with little or no modifications if a 4" prop
spacer is used. I concur completely. The problems are only found when a
shorter prop extension, or no prop extension is used. This forces the cowl
back onto the plane and thereby necessitates several mods to the fiberglass
itself. The note by Will James below (the son of Sam, and the actual
producer of these very nice pieces of glass) is correct in that the
directions call for a 4" prop extension. Myself, and several others are
using this cowl with a standard C2YK Hartzell CS Prop. This will place the
prop spinner 4" closer to the firewall, and thus the problems. Will is
right...there aren't complaints from folks using the cowl with the prop
spacer which is called for.
Will and Sam produce a VERY nice cowl. The workmanship is flawless. They are
very fine people and easily accessible. My cowl is finished and is
absolutely beautiful. Other people on this list have seen it, and they would
agree that it is a beautiful cowl. The work to put one on your airplane,
however, is extensive if you want to use a CS compact hub (aerobatic) Prop.
If you want to use the extended hub CS prop that Vans sells (with its 3.1G
limitation), or a FP prop with a 4" extension, then this cowl should fit
very nicely, and Will's pleased customers prove it. I would not hesitate
from buying one of these cowls again, and would do it all over with my
compact hub CS prop. My point is, and always has been, that changes to the
plane which differ from their dimensions will necessitate fiberglass work.
I've assured Sam that I will help anybody who wants to put one of these on
their plane that also wants to run a compact hub CS prop. If you do what
the instructions tell you with regard to prop spacing, then you won't need
my help, and you will be very happy with it right out of the box.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Will James
Subject: RV-List: James Aircraft RV-6 Cowl--From the Source
It would seem that there is some confusion concerning the suitability
and function of the Barnard Designed RV-6 cowling manufactured by James
Aircraft. While the very kind comments pertaining to the quality of
workmanship are very much appreciated, there remains a certain current
of adverse concern which stands in need of correction. Approximately
thirty-five of these cowlings have been produced; all from the original
molds. Most were purchased by builders nearing the completion of their
projects. A major source of personal satisfaction has been the absolute
lack of customer complaint concerning this product. All report ease of
installation and performance enhancement at or above advertised with the
exception of two customers. Both problems were the result of not using
specified components. If any person describes any level of
dissatisfaction with the James Aircraft RV-6 cowling, please apply this
simple litmus test: Did you follow the directions? There can be only
one answer.
Please direct comment or questions to: JamesAirDiv1(at)netscape.net or
850-342-9929.
Thank you,
Will James
James Aircraft Division 1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
Brian,
You should be able to go several more years before having to worry about the
K&N air filter cleaning. In cars, under normal use they are supposed to be
good for 50,000 miles. In airplane language that works out to be about 1000
hours. So, unless you are landing on a lot of dirt fields there should be
no problem. And cleaning and re-oiling is much more cost effective than
throwing it away and buying a new one. But then again, after 1000 hours,
what's $35.00 for a new filter.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: K&N filter: when to clean?
>Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 03:33:44
>
>
>Lister dudes,
>
>Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter
>that
>is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two years,
>and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea
>when
>to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
>install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website
>about
>how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>258 hrs and 2nd annual is due. How time flies when you're having fun.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Magneto Current Draw, Was Magneto wiring |
--- Cy Galley wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley"
>
>
> There isn't a current draw on the P lead; not part of the electrical
> system.
> It is a grounding wire. Strength is the consideration as you don't
> want it
> to break leaving your mags HOT!
Yeah - that was a real dumb shit moment.
The good thing is I did it on lists where everybody knows there is lots
we (as individuals) don't know.
Which is why we're here.
Ok. Something else learned - or reminded of, in this case.
Mag switches ground the mags.
Mag switches ground the mags.
Mag switches ground the mags.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Strap... |
In a message dated 10/11/01 8:11:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
>
> Bill,
>
> Buy a custom braided ground strap from Lectric Bob. Run it from the boss on
> the engine case just behind the oil filler to the ground block. You can see
> mine at...
> http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-536x.jpg
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
>
Just about every auto parts store carries braided ground (straps or wires) in
many sizes and lengths for about $ 5.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
Does this filter come with the filtered airbox kit option?
-Larry
BowenAero.com
--- Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Brian,
>
> You should be able to go several more years before having to worry about the
> K&N air filter cleaning. In cars, under normal use they are supposed to be
> good for 50,000 miles. In airplane language that works out to be about 1000
> hours. So, unless you are landing on a lot of dirt fields there should be
> no problem. And cleaning and re-oiling is much more cost effective than
> throwing it away and buying a new one. But then again, after 1000 hours,
> what's $35.00 for a new filter.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: K&N filter: when to clean?
> >Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 03:33:44
> >
> >
> >Lister dudes,
> >
> >Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter
> >that
> >is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two years,
> >and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea
> >when
> >to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
> >install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website
> >about
> >how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
> >
> >Brian Denk
> >RV8 N94BD
> >258 hrs and 2nd annual is due. How time flies when you're having fun.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian.belmore(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Large #2 wire firewall passthru thingie |
Philip
It comes from Summit Racing 1-800-230-3030
P/N SUM-G1431 $9.39
Works great
Ian
RV6 G-RVIB
Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Large #2 wire firewall passthru thingie
>
>
> Somewhere I read of a firewall mounted insulated stud where you can bolt
> on wire on each side of the stud. The stud of course being insulated. My
> battery #2 wire is using a grommit now and the angle of the wire and
> stress on the grommit is causing some discomfort in me...I don't want a
> short here. Does anyone know where I can get one of those insulated
> studs ( Elect. Bobs site didn't have it....) H E L P
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft RV-6 Cowl--From the Source |
listers
as one who has seen jims cowl and plenum, i agree the craftmanship is
outstanding. jims hard work making this cowl fit his application, has paid
off, as it its drop dead GAW JUST. although, i don't think the common rv
builder would jump through all the hoops that Jim has, to accomplish this
task. someone with the skill and pateince could do this, but it sure comes at
a high price, of labor. the results, well we will see in a year or so when
his is standing there with the grand champion trophy at Sun N Fun. Jim has
many mods on this plane that will make it look and perform FAST. every thing
he has done is of 1st rate ( $ ). this will be a special rv when completed,
there is no doubt in my mind.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this real? |
> Aluminum grinding dust can create a serious explosive fire hazard when it
> is
> mixed with steel or iron grinding dust.
Yes it is real. Sand aluminum using a belt sander or other method, never
use a grinding wheel. Aluminum will cause a grinding wheel (stone) to
shatter. As an accident investigator I know that this is a common
occurrence. Just because you have ground aluminum on a grinding wheel and
did not die doesn't mean that it is safe.
In our shop the sander for aluminum is labeled for aluminum only and has a
completely separate exhaust system from the steel grinding wheels and
sanders.
Be safe
Dave Burton
ex. NW Laboratories,
University of Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Large #2 wire firewall passthru thingie |
If the master contactor is mounted aft of the firewall (mine is mounted
on the rudder pedal support just above the battery box...RV-6) then it
is not necessary to run the fat lead from the battery through the
firewall. The only big lead penetrating the firewall will be the one
from the master contactor to the starter contactor, and that one can be
de-energized by switching off the master contactor. The B lead from the
alternator can be connected at the starter contactor so it doesn't have
to enter the cabin.
I didn't like the idea of a fat, unfused wire going though the firewall
even though it is likely that a short would be short-lived as it burned
away the portion of the firewall touching the conductor. In my plane,
the only unprotected wire is less than 12 inches long, going from the
battery to the nearby master contactor.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=============================
philip condon wrote:
>
>
> Somewhere I read of a firewall mounted insulated stud where you can bolt
> on wire on each side of the stud. The stud of course being insulated. My
> battery #2 wire is using a grommit now and the angle of the wire and
> stress on the grommit is causing some discomfort in me...I don't want a
> short here. Does anyone know where I can get one of those insulated
> studs ( Elect. Bobs site didn't have it....) H E L P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
In a message dated 10/11/01 9:22:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, CW9371(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2001 10:43:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
> akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > Hey, so how is a guy supposed to know when to clean out that K&N filter
> that
> > is supplied with the FAB box? I've had mine in the airplane for two
> years,
> > and have blown it out with compressed air a few times, but have no idea
> > when
> > to actually clean and re-oil it. Or, is it just easier to trash it and
> > install a new one? I recall reading some gibberish on the K&N website
> > about
> > how they only get better as they get dirtier. Huh???
>
> Never blow out with compressor, u need a new one, u need to clean them
> with
> filter cleaner and reoil, should be done yearly I know i clean my yearly
> only crotchrockets and weekly on the dirtbikes
>
>
>
I don't agree with this advice, you plane is not a crotch rocket or a
dirtbike and it would be foolish to inspect and clean you air filter once a
year, you sould inspect and clean at least at every oil change. K&N does
make a cleaner and a filter oil for there filters. K&N has a web site, go
there or call them for the proper cleaning-service / instructions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Is this real? |
In a message dated 10/12/01 6:53:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time, cole(at)iei.net
writes:
> RV-List: Is this real?
> Date: 10/12/01 6:53:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time
> From: cole(at)iei.net (Steve Cole)
> Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: 9/26/01 9:14 AM
> From: Mick Pahnke
> Although rare, this is something we should all consider when working in your
> shop areas. Anyone who has seen this reaction has always come away quite
> impressed.
>
> -Date: September 21, 2001
> Identifier: 2001-RL-HNF-0036
>
> Lessons Learned Statement:
> Aluminum grinding dust can create a serious explosive fire hazard when it
> is
> mixed with steel or iron grinding dust.
>
All this time I thought that the aluimium dust would only constapate you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large #2 wire firewall passthru thingie |
In a message dated 10/12/2001 8:20:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
I got mine from Vic Hubbard Auto Supply in Hayward, Ca. WWW.vichubbard.com
Originally I had my contactors mounted on the top of the firewall recess box.
After thinking about accessibility later on I decided to move the contactors
and B-lead fuse to the right fwd firewall. The positive battery cable uses
the bulkhead cable connector. I really like this setup, it makes for a neat
penetration of the firewall with no extreme bends in the battery cable.
Cash Copeland
RV6
>
Somewhere I read of a firewall mounted insulated stud where you can bolt
> on wire on each side of the stud. The stud of course being insulated. My
> battery #2 wire is using a grommit now and the angle of the wire and
> stress on the grommit is causing some discomfort in me...I don't want a
> short here. Does anyone know where I can get one of those insulated
> studs ( Elect. Bobs site didn't have it....) H E L P
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
In a message dated 10/12/2001 12:46:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com writes:
> I don't agree with this advice, you plane is not a crotch rocket or a
> dirtbike and it would be foolish to inspect and clean you air filter once a
> year, you sould inspect and clean at least at every oil change. K&N does
> make a cleaner and a filter oil for there filters. K&N has a web site, go
> there or call them for the proper cleaning-service / instructions
>
K&N doenst want the filters cleaned that often, you want some dirt in them.
but there is not hard and fast rule on aircraft use or any other use, it
depends on how much dust you pick up in them and how dirty they are.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | This just in.... |
I just saw this in an EAA e-newsletter I just received:
"As we noted in last weeks e-HOT LINE, the FAA released FAA Advisory
Circular (AC) 20-27E, Certification and Operations of Amateur-Built Aircraft
last week. After a quick review, EAA staff, EAA members and several type
clubs noticed a major mistake. Paragraph 12e(2) stated that each letter of
the required experimental amateur-built aircraft passenger warning "shall"
be 3/8" tall. This size requirement was added to the document after all
public reviews and just prior to printing.
EAA immediately called FAA to alert them of the error, which resulted
literally halted the presses and release of the AC. A new revised document
is being prepared and released to the public, containing the same passenger
warning label requirements except the 3/8" letter height requirement will be
deleted. When EAA receives the updated AC well post it on the government
and homebuilders websites."
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
I submit my question to those that may have completed
their R V,s..Vans sells 2 ELT's,ACK E-01 and
Ameri-King AK-450 ..Oh great ones,which one is
the better????????????
John McMahon
Inst. Panel
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K&N filter: when to clean? |
>>It would be foolish to inspect and clean you air filter once a
> > year, you sould inspect and clean at least at every oil change
> K&N doenst want the filters cleaned that often, you want some dirt in
them.
> but there is not hard and fast rule on aircraft use or any other use, it
> depends on how much dust you pick up in them and how dirty they are.
Agreed. Besides, the air filter setup is a relatively "new" addition to the
design. How many RV-3's and -4's and early -6's did not even HAVE a intake
filter.
Once a year is probably enough. It is a pain in the butt to clean them
anyway.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | O-360 in RV9 continued |
I asked Van's (via email) why they don't recommend an engine larger than
the O-320 for the RV9. Is it size, horsepower or weight. Tom Green
responded by saying that there is an article on this in the new RVator that
is being printed as we speak. I guess I'll have to wait for that to come
out. I would have preferred a direct answer.
The guys at Superior say that they have already sold some O-360s to
guys building RV9s. If anyone out there knows them please let me know.
Thanks,
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 continued |
> I asked Van's (via email) why they don't recommend an engine larger
> than the O-320 for the RV9. Is it size, horsepower or weight.
If a manufacturer comes out with a limit on engine size, someone just has to
put a bigger engine in it than the airplane was designed for. RVers are no
different.
The airplane was designed to be a nice little cross country, or trainer,
type airplane that could do well on less power. It was not designed to be
the speedster that many want. It was to fill a niche for those of us who
don't demand the highest horsepower one can get and want a cheap flying
airplane. Actually, it has done better than expected, in that regard.
It's kinda like old Pat Patterson has suggested to me several times. There
are those who will never be satisfied with the power they have. For him,
the best all around engine for the RV-6A is the 160hp O320 engine with a
fixed metal prop. I have a 150 hp O320 with fixed metal prop and am very
happy with mine. Both of us realized that for the flying we do, our RVs
perform quite well. With that, I would suggest a 150hp O320 with fixed
pitch prop so that the person who was looking for the economy of the RV-9A
would also be able to use auto gas and get added horsepower, too. Any more
than that is just a waste of money.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Cylinder Coatings |
Listners,
I am going to rebuild a runout engine and need some advice in
regard to the different types of coatings available for the cylinder
walls. The way I understand it, there are three different ways to go:
chrome plating the cylinder walls, Cermi Chrome plating and Nu Chrome
plating. I have heard that the Cermi Chrome process does not hold up
well and can lead to big problems. Regular chrome plating holds up well
but it is hard to get the rings to seat. I know nothing of Nu Chrome.
If anyone has knowledge, experience or advice, I would like to hear
from you.
Thanks in advance,
John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs and RV7 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
EAA Stops the FAA Presses!
As we noted in last week's e-HOT LINE, the FAA released FAA Advisory
Circular (AC) 20-27E, Certification and Operations of Amateur-Built
Aircraft last week. After a quick review, EAA staff, EAA members and
several type clubs noticed a major mistake. Paragraph 12e(2) stated that
each letter of the required experimental amateur-built aircraft
passenger warning "shall" be 3/8" tall. This size requirement was added
to the document after all public reviews and just prior to printing.
EAA immediately called FAA to alert them of the error, which resulted
literally halted the presses and release of the AC. A new revised
document is being prepared and released to the public, containing the
same passenger warning label requirements except the 3/8" letter height
requirement will be deleted. When EAA receives the updated AC we'll post
it on the government and homebuilders websites.
Contact EAA at govt(at)eaa.org for more information.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 continued |
Paul,
I haven't bought my engine yet, but I plan to put an O-360 in my -9.
I asked several different people about it at Vans. The only response I got
was that they didn't want us to exceed VNE. (currently, 195mph, I think)
They also said that the plane had not been flutter tested at the time
(before Sun n fun) but that they planned to do it. The hope was that the
flutter test would allow them to raise the vne.
I don't think weight should be a problem. The O-360 is only about 20 lbs
heavier than the 0-320 and you could always use a lighter weight fixed pitch
prop which would yield about the same total weight. You could also move the
battery aft to keep the proper balance.
The fuse on the -9 and -7 are the same, so that should not be an issue.
The only other thing that I could think of that might be a problem is the
tail section. It may be that the tail components are not strong enough for
the extra power. Many super cub owners ran into this kind of problem when
upgrading their engines to 180 hp. But I don't think this will prove to be a
problem. It appears that the tail on the -9 is stronger than that on any
super cub.
Since I fly mostly out of high elevation airports, the 0-360 will never put
out over 160 hp for me anyway. Also, I don't think I will be able to
"indicate" over 170 mph at the altitudes I fly.
Finally, since the fuses are the same I was told by vans that you could
order the firewall forward kit for the -7 that accommodates the 0-360 and it
will fit on the -9.
Regards,
Cliff
Erie, Co
Rv9A - Wings
www.barefootpilot.com
>
> I asked Van's (via email) why they don't recommend an engine larger
than
> the O-320 for the RV9. Is it size, horsepower or weight. Tom Green
> responded by saying that there is an article on this in the new RVator
that
> is being printed as we speak. I guess I'll have to wait for that to come
> out. I would have preferred a direct answer.
> The guys at Superior say that they have already sold some O-360s to
> guys building RV9s. If anyone out there knows them please let me know.
> Thanks,
> Paul
> 90355
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engines-List: Re:IVOprop for RV's |
Does anyone have Warp Drives phone number, internet site address, or email
address?
----- Original Message -----
From: Johnny Johnson <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
Subject: RE: Engines-List: Re:IVOprop for RV's
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Johnny Johnson"
>
> Maybe it's just a problem with the larger Lycosaurs?? Most of the RVs
have
> O320 or O360 engines, some O290.. I would like very much to use a Warp
> Drive as I've heard many really good things about them, but I'm going to
> wait until I have the Subaru engine going..
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM RV-3 O320-160 hp
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> ZodiacBuilder(at)aol.com
> To: engines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Engines-List: Re:IVOprop for RV's
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: ZodiacBuilder(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2001 7:12:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> Johnny(at)wiktel.com writes:
>
>
> > Van's recommends against any composite prop on aircraft engines, Warp
> Drive
> > being one of them..
>
> I have been following this thread for several days. I feel as though I
> should be worried. I built a Zodiac 601hds with an 0-200 spinning a 68"
> Warp
> Drive. It was highly recommended. The DAR that inspected my plane went
as
> far as saying it was probably the best experimental prop he has ever seen.
> I
> know of dozens of other planes with either the 0-200 or 0-235 with Warp
> Drive
> props. Never heard of a problem or a complaint.
>
>
> John W. Tarabocchia
>
> Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
> N6042T 60hrs Flown.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Yeah Mikey (Das Fed) told us that awhile ago.
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> EAA Stops the FAA Presses!
> As we noted in last week's e-HOT LINE, the FAA released FAA Advisory
> Circular (AC) 20-27E, Certification and Operations of Amateur-Built
> Aircraft last week. After a quick review, EAA staff, EAA members and
> several type clubs noticed a major mistake. Paragraph 12e(2) stated that
> each letter of the required experimental amateur-built aircraft
> passenger warning "shall" be 3/8" tall. This size requirement was added
> to the document after all public reviews and just prior to printing.
> EAA immediately called FAA to alert them of the error, which resulted
> literally halted the presses and release of the AC. A new revised
> document is being prepared and released to the public, containing the
> same passenger warning label requirements except the 3/8" letter height
> requirement will be deleted. When EAA receives the updated AC we'll post
> it on the government and homebuilders websites.
> Contact EAA at govt(at)eaa.org for more information.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | O-360 in RV9 continued |
Clifford Begnaud wrote:
<>
Cliff,
I just received my ASI from Van's for the -9 (Part No. IF
UMA-16-310-244D.9). It shows Vne as 210 mph. I'm installing an Aero Sport
Power IO-320-D1A.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Flip a coin. I have the Ameri King, and it works fine. Haven't yet been in
a crash, though, so who knows. I think the ACK would be easier to mount, as
it is narrower. It is a little longer, though.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best ELT,s
I submit my question to those that may have completed
their R V,s..Vans sells 2 ELT's,ACK E-01 and
Ameri-King AK-450 ..Oh great ones,which one is
the better????????????
John McMahon
Inst. Panel
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
>
>
>Listners,
> I am going to rebuild a runout engine and need some advice in
>regard to the different types of coatings available for the cylinder
>walls. The way I understand it, there are three different ways to go:
>chrome plating the cylinder walls, Cermi Chrome plating and Nu Chrome
>plating. I have heard that the Cermi Chrome process does not hold up
>well and can lead to big problems. Regular chrome plating holds up well
>but it is hard to get the rings to seat. I know nothing of Nu Chrome.
>
> If anyone has knowledge, experience or advice, I would like to hear
>from you.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs and RV7 fuselage
John,
There are as many old wives tales about cylinder coatings as there are which
primer to use. Yikes.
I had to replace the front cylinders on my O-360 due to head cracks. Both
are chromed stud assemblies. I ran mineral oil for about ten hours to try
and seat the rings. I don't know if I ever did or not. I now burn about a
quart every five to seven hours. Some would say that's a lot, while other
say that's just right. All I know is that the pipes are clean, not sooty,
and I'm not finding oil fouled plugs. Since chrome has been around a long
time, I feel that it's a proven process, when done by a reputable shop. It
IS possible to botch the job with the results being a jug that will never
allow the rings to seat. I highly recommend Gibson Aviation in Oklahoma for
overhauled jugs. Great people to deal with and they've been at it for a
long time.
As another alternative to increase your education on the matter, I also
recommend the Sky Ranch Engineering manual, written by John Schwaner. It
explains the hows and whys of cylinder coatings.
Cermichrome has many ardent fans, and probably an equal amount of nay
sayers. If I was looking to rebuild my engine, I'd go with new Milleniums
as a first choice, and plain ole chrome overhauled, first-run jugs as a
second choice.
My opinion only. Your mileage may vary, yada yada yada. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net> |
John,
I'm still building my RV-4 but I do have an Ameri-King AK-450 installed
in my J3 Cub. I've had no trouble with it at all.
The neat thing about this unit is it uses standard Duracell "D" sized
batteries, 6 of them. Every year at annual, I replace them
and save them for my flashlight. No expensive batteries to buy and you can
plug in an aircraft microphone to transmit with in
an emergency.
I don't have any experience with the ACK, sorry.
Good luck with what ever you pick.
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911, Emp.
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best ELT,s
>
> I submit my question to those that may have completed
> their R V,s..Vans sells 2 ELT's,ACK E-01 and
> Ameri-King AK-450 ..Oh great ones,which one is
> the better????????????
> John McMahon
> Inst. Panel
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au> |
| Subject: | rv6 fuel vent pipe |
Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
fuz?
I was thinking of running the vent pipe along the back of the tank along
the top flange then down at the outboard end and exit the bottom of the
wing just aft of the fwd row of screws
(just like the piper Cherokee system if anyone is familiar with it)
also the plans suggest to mount the fuel pump on the side of the fuz at
a 45 angle. why?
could it be mounted on the floor beneath the fuel selector instead?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, October 12, 2001, at 08:01 PM, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Flip a coin. I have the Ameri King, and it works fine. Haven't yet
> been in
> a crash, though, so who knows. I think the ACK would be easier to
> mount, as
> it is narrower. It is a little longer, though.
>
> Paul Besing
I have bought and installed two ACKs now in different airplanes.
Haven't crashed either one :-)
I agree they are probably functionally too close to call. They both use
standard D cell batteries and the weights/sizes are similar.
You might want to check the archives about Ameri-King's customer
service. That's why I went with the ACK, even though at the time it was
about $20 more expensive..
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engines-List: Re:IVOprop for RV's |
Warp Drive is just down the road here in Clear Lake Iowa. The number is
641-357-6000
They previously did not encourage use of the prop on 4 cylinder Lycomings.
They tend to grow "hair" at the hub. They also do not do well at the high
speeds RV's fly at. They are continiously working on new blades and may
have some new technology. Give them a call.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Does anyone have Warp Drives phone number, internet site address, or email
> address?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fuel vent pipe |
> Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
> fuz?
Why? Be very cautious when modifying fuel system components - don't take
anything for granted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fuel vent pipe |
I think the problem with that is if you don't go higher than the tank, you
could lose some fuel out of that line. The reason that Van has you run it
up and then down again is to provide a steep uphill climb to only allow air
in the line and not let fuel out.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
fuz?
I was thinking of running the vent pipe along the back of the tank along
the top flange then down at the outboard end and exit the bottom of the
wing just aft of the fwd row of screws
(just like the piper Cherokee system if anyone is familiar with it)
also the plans suggest to mount the fuel pump on the side of the fuz at
a 45 angle. why?
could it be mounted on the floor beneath the fuel selector instead?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | New builder question |
As a first time builder I ordered my RV-9A emp kit from Van's and a
bunch of tools from Avery. After finishing the HS and the VS all is
well. While working on the rudder 'the problem' arose.
Most all rivits on the first 2 pieces were taped when set, (electrical
tape - believe it or not it works great, more on that later) and looked
just fine. I have been comparing my work with 2 other RV's flying now.
I first noticed that my dimples looked a lot bigger in diameter than
theirs. Maybe 50 % bigger than the rivit head. Theirs were maybe 5%
bigger.
Now heres the problem. It turns out that my dimple dies for 3/32 have a
1/8 size female half! So the dimples are oversized and shallow,
something like maybe a 110 degree angle. The rivit heads set without the
tape have a gap under the factory head I can slip a fingernail under!
I called Avery and told them the problem and they are sending me a new
correct size dimple set piece at no charge with no questions. Thats
service and support!!!
It seems that when I used the tape over the heads (PVC electrical tape)
that the tape deformed the heads just enough to push the outside edge
down and touch the dimple.
The question on all our minds (mine anyway) is what do I do about the
other rivits (maybe 200 or so) with the gap under the head edge? I cant
tape over them and re-set them.
Rocky 'Trim tab'
RV-9A emp
www.hoe-thing.com
in deep doo-doo with rivits
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rv-8 Parking Brake |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
be appreciated.
Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
I have the AK450 I like the batteries. and is easy to install behind the
passanger seat. While building -tested it at home and a friend at the tower
about 12 miles away reported it worked ok from the shop in the back yard. I
change the batteries every annual . Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terence Gannon" <tgannon(at)stoneboat.com> |
| Subject: | New builder question |
Rocky -- I'll be interested to hear what kind of advice you get from the
other listers, but my own perspective is that this is not likely a good
situation. Maybe the best advice that I can offer is to check out AC43.13
(Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices -- AKA The Bible) and take a
look at the diagrams. In my copy, there on page 53. Comparing your work to
the book's diagrams, you should be able to judge for yourself whether they
are acceptable or not. Getting good at that judgement call is probably a
good thing to get good at anyway. One other word of advice -- if you think
you've got to reject them and 'do-over' -- is that you carry on with the
rest of the project, and then come back to these parts. I trashed the left
aileron and 'did-over' right away, and it's pretty demoralizing doing all
the work over again so soon after I had done it once before. Took a two
year break to get over it. :-(
Cheers...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
PS. Interesting you should say that Avery didn't charge you anything to ship
you a new dimple die. Man, after a gaff like that, you might have expected
that he get on the next plane and build the replacement parts for you! ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
I have a little experience work with both.
Six in one hand, half dozen in the other.
ACK is yellow
A-K is orange
ACK is a drop-in for the old Narco's that came with Pipers
A-K is more rectangular (less long)
ACK uses "D" size Duracells
A-K uses "D" size Duracells
ACK does not come with a microphone input
A-K does come with a microphone input
So you see, it doesn't matter much. If you think the microphone input is a
feature, go A-K. If you want a slightly slimer model and/or are "dropping it
in" as a replacement for a NARCO (I doubt) the go for the ACK. Either way
you will be happy I think.
James
ACK in the Piper
A-K in the .5 RV6
A?K in the RV6A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John McMahon
Subject: RV-List: Best ELT,s
I submit my question to those that may have completed
their R V,s..Vans sells 2 ELT's,ACK E-01 and
Ameri-King AK-450 ..Oh great ones,which one is
the better????????????
John McMahon
Inst. Panel
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | O-360 in RV9 continued |
Hi Paul;
Phone Van's and ask to speak with Scott Risen. He seems to be a real
straight shooter who answers questions without uuumming & awwing & beating
around the bush. He doesn't seem to have a closed mind for those that stray
off the beaten path.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
Finished Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Paulbaird(at)aol.com
> Sent: October 12, 2001 2:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: O-360 in RV9 continued
>
>
> I asked Van's (via email) why they don't recommend an engine
> larger than
> the O-320 for the RV9. Is it size, horsepower or weight. Tom Green
> responded by saying that there is an article on this in the new
> RVator that
> is being printed as we speak. I guess I'll have to wait for that to come
> out. I would have preferred a direct answer.
> The guys at Superior say that they have already sold some O-360s to
> guys building RV9s. If anyone out there knows them please let me know.
> Thanks,
> Paul
> 90355
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The directions
are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear bow
of the canopy near the track.
Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The pictures
might save you 900 words or more.
Howard Cochran
Mooresville, NC
1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-320-E2D For Sale |
In a message dated 10/12/2001 12:32:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Lycoming O-320-E2D for sale. First run engine with 1945 TT. New Slick mags
> 45 SNEW. Carburetor included. Compressions when removed were 75/76/76/72.
> First $6500.00
Todd,
When you reduce the price to $4000 I will be interested.
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder question |
>
>As a first time builder I ordered my RV-9A emp kit from Van's and a
>bunch of tools from Avery. After finishing the HS and the VS all is
>well. While working on the rudder 'the problem' arose.
>
>Most all rivits on the first 2 pieces were taped when set, (electrical
>tape - believe it or not it works great, more on that later) and looked
>just fine. I have been comparing my work with 2 other RV's flying now.
>I first noticed that my dimples looked a lot bigger in diameter than
>theirs. Maybe 50 % bigger than the rivit head. Theirs were maybe 5%
>bigger.
>
>Now heres the problem. It turns out that my dimple dies for 3/32 have a
>1/8 size female half! So the dimples are oversized and shallow,
>something like maybe a 110 degree angle. The rivit heads set without the
>tape have a gap under the factory head I can slip a fingernail under!
>
>I called Avery and told them the problem and they are sending me a new
>correct size dimple set piece at no charge with no questions. Thats
>service and support!!!
>
>It seems that when I used the tape over the heads (PVC electrical tape)
>that the tape deformed the heads just enough to push the outside edge
>down and touch the dimple.
>
>The question on all our minds (mine anyway) is what do I do about the
>other rivits (maybe 200 or so) with the gap under the head edge? I cant
>tape over them and re-set them.
>
>Rocky 'Trim tab'
>RV-9A emp
>www.hoe-thing.com
>in deep doo-doo with rivits
>
Rocky,
You aren't going to be getting full strength from those rivets.
There is no way to know how much strength you will get from them.
The smart thing to do is to trash those parts, order some new ones
and do it right.
I know how much it hurts to throw away the work, time and dollars
that you have invested in those parts, but your safety has to be the
number one consideration here. We all end up trashing a few things
before we are done, so join the club.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Mckee" <spider(at)newulmtel.com> |
| Subject: | What do I need to know to build an RV-3 |
I want to build an RV-3 with strong wings. Can I just build and then
have it licensed or must it be inspected as I build each part..?
Where do I find info about RV wings and how to make them stronger?
What is best part to build first?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV3-List: What do I need to know to build an RV-3 |
Check Van's web site, lots of good info there. Derrick, Wichita, KS.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robin Mckee
Subject: RV3-List: What do I need to know to build an RV-3
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Robin Mckee"
I want to build an RV-3 with strong wings. Can I just build and then
have it licensed or must it be inspected as I build each part..?
Where do I find info about RV wings and how to make them stronger?
What is best part to build first?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
> I am going to rebuild a runout engine and need some advice in
> regard to the different types of coatings available for the cylinder
> walls. The way I understand it, there are three different ways to go:
> chrome plating the cylinder walls, Cermi Chrome plating and Nu Chrome
> plating. I have heard that the Cermi Chrome process does not hold up
> well and can lead to big problems. Regular chrome plating holds up well
> but it is hard to get the rings to seat. I know nothing of Nu Chrome.
>
> If anyone has knowledge, experience or advice, I would like to hear
> from you.
>
As someone else pointed out, Cermi Chrome had a reputation for not holding
up. I'm not sure if this problem was ever cured. Seems I read that it was.
Don't have any idea about NuChrome.
I have chrome cylinders on my 150hp O320 that now have about 150 hours on
them. Unlike the other contributor, I didn't change my oil from mineral oil
so quickly. I let it go for 50 hours. That gave the chrome plenty of time
to break in. I also got my engine pretty hot a couple of times during some
taxi testing. We think that may have been good for the engine because it
may have let the chrome do it's cracking process better. My IA friend told
me about an engine on a truck he had that had been chromed and got real hot.
It suddenly got much better oil milage. There may be some truth to the
theory; so, I stopped worrying about doing damage to the engine, at that
point. I'm pretty happy with the results. The 5-7 hours per quart you were
told about is pretty common; but, I'm getting 10-13 hours per quart on mine.
That's pretty darned close to the usage I was getting on rebuilt steel
cylinders. I'm not getting any abnormal wear on the cylinders, either. A
recent oil analysis proved that out. I'm using straight weight Aeroshell
oil in mine, if that helps.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What do I need to know to build an RV-3 |
In a message dated 10/13/01 7:52:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
spider(at)newulmtel.com writes:
<< I want to build an RV-3 with strong wings. Can I just build and then
have it licensed or must it be inspected as I build each part..?
Where do I find info about RV wings and how to make them stronger?
What is best part to build first?
Robin >>
There is no hard and fast requirement to have each part inspected as you
build it. However, it is a good idea, especially for a new builder. Some
insurance companys (Avemco, for one) offer a discount program for using EAA
Tech Counselor's for repeated inspections (a minimum of 3, if I remember
correctly).
Build the RV-3 wings according to the most recent design update, and they
will be designed to aerobatic standards - design limits of 6 g's positive and
3(?) negative. The older wing designs for the RV-3 are marginal (i.e. the
ultimate load may be less than 1.5 times the design load) although this may
be dependant on builder skill and techniques. IF you are interested in
pulling more than +6/-3 g's, you should consider a different aircraft - one
that is designed for more aggressive flying. The One Design comes to mind.
Build the empennage first. If you screw it up and have to trash it (not
likely), you've only "invested" $1,000 in your metal working skills.
Also, check the archives. There is a huge amount of information in there on
RV-3's, inspections, and virtually any other RV related subject you would be
interested in.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
In a message dated 10/13/01 12:52:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
> I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
> with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
> specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
> hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
> descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
> Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
> Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
> also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
> installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
> be appreciated.
>
> Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
> Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
>
>
Please reply on list, I am having a similar dilema. I planned on mounting my
valve at the bottom center of the rear bulkhead for the forward baggage
compartment. I cant't figure how to run the brake control cable from this
location due to the non-adjustable throw of the parking brake arm.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
In a message dated 10/13/01 12:52:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
> I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
> with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
> specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
> hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
> descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
> Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
> Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
> also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
> installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
> be appreciated.
>
> Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
> Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
>
Please reply on list, I am having a similar dilema. I planned on mounting my
valve at the bottom center of the rear bulkhead for the forward baggage
compartment. I cant't figure how to run the brake control cable from this
location due to the non-adjustable throw of the parking brake arm.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder question |
Rocky,
I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but if you can slip a fingernail
under most of the rivets on the HS and/or VS I would have to reject it and
start over. You might want to get an A&P or experienced RV builder to take
a look. Call Vans before you give it up but it seems to me it would not be
safe if it is as you have described it. Just my opinion.
Let us know what happens,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: New builder question
>
> As a first time builder I ordered my RV-9A emp kit from Van's and a
> bunch of tools from Avery. After finishing the HS and the VS all is
> well. While working on the rudder 'the problem' arose.
>
> Most all rivits on the first 2 pieces were taped when set, (electrical
> tape - believe it or not it works great, more on that later) and looked
> just fine. I have been comparing my work with 2 other RV's flying now.
> I first noticed that my dimples looked a lot bigger in diameter than
> theirs. Maybe 50 % bigger than the rivit head. Theirs were maybe 5%
> bigger.
>
> Now heres the problem. It turns out that my dimple dies for 3/32 have a
> 1/8 size female half! So the dimples are oversized and shallow,
> something like maybe a 110 degree angle. The rivit heads set without the
> tape have a gap under the factory head I can slip a fingernail under!
>
> I called Avery and told them the problem and they are sending me a new
> correct size dimple set piece at no charge with no questions. Thats
> service and support!!!
>
> It seems that when I used the tape over the heads (PVC electrical tape)
> that the tape deformed the heads just enough to push the outside edge
> down and touch the dimple.
>
> The question on all our minds (mine anyway) is what do I do about the
> other rivits (maybe 200 or so) with the gap under the head edge? I cant
> tape over them and re-set them.
>
> Rocky 'Trim tab'
> RV-9A emp
> www.hoe-thing.com
> in deep doo-doo with rivits
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
> . The 5-7 hours per quart you were
> told about is pretty common; but, I'm getting 10-13 hours per quart on mine.
> That's pretty darned close to the usage I was getting on rebuilt steel
> cylinders. I'm not getting any abnormal wear on the cylinders, either. A
> recent oil analysis proved that out.
Mornin', Jim. Interesting observation; I'll add my experience.
My overhauled O-320 would go 25 hrs between changes and only consume a quart,
which I seldom ever bothered to add. I never filled the crank case all the
way up, rather I used 7 qts where 8 were called for. If it got below 6, I
was going to add a qt between changes. I may have done this once.
After the unpleasantness with my cam and lifters grinding themselves into
silver glitter last year, we did a tear down and a 160 hp upgrade, along with
something I considered a bit unorthodox but sensible: we replaced the old
rings (in same order and location) on the new pistons and placed the jugs
back on without further ado, since the cross-hatch pattern was still good in
the cyls from the major overhaul just 150 hrs before. To my great
satisfaction, everything seemed to seat up just fine, as if the wear-parts
were old friends, which they were. I now have to add one qt of AeroShell
15W-50 between changes, but I'm not upset, because now that I have added a
spin-on filter, the changes are 50 hrs apart. So that's my oil consumption
story: 1 qt/50 hrs, and I'm stickin' to it.
I think the secret is underfilling the crank case, so the first qt doesn't
blow out of the vent right away. BTW, I do not return air/oil separator oil
to the crank case, althought I did formerly. I sump drain about 1 oz of
built-up oil every oil change from a small reservoir designed for this
purpose. My mechanic had thought the return of dirty oil and acids may have
hastened the destruction of the lifters the first time, but I believe the
blame lies elsewhere; that's another long story. My latest oil analysis
looked good.
Everybody have a good week end!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
>
> Still researching ignitions. I learned that Lasar has a shortcoming in
> that if the computer fails it will keep running on the mags but it will
> not start once it has been shut down. It won't go again until the
> computer has been sent to the factory and back. Can you say stranded
> some where you don't want to be? Seems like a shortcoming to me.
>
Get into the Microsoft mode man! That's not a bug, that's a feature.
Seriously, my recollection is the they did it that way to make sure you know
there was a failure. Like you, I don't like it. I don't even like a system
where you can't prop it to start. That ability has saved me from being
stranded a few times.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying with Slick mags
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy Question |
Hi Howard,
I just trimmed my canopy also. About half way through cutting the canopy I
re-read the instructions and found that I missed the part that says to use
the dimensions on the drawing 44. The only dimension that I found was the
one that tells where to put the front edge of the canopy. I think it is 3
1/4" from the rear baggage wall. Check that. I noticed that once I put the
front edge there it seemed to line up better. OF COURSE I FOUND THAT RIGHT
AFTER I CUT THE REAR PORTION OFF. Mine turned out to be fine but it sure was
close. I did have to cut a hole bunch off the front to bring it down to the
canopy bow.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <W4PPN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Question
> --> RV8-List message posted by: W4PPN(at)aol.com
>
> I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
>
> On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
directions
> are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
> quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
>
> My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
> edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on
the
> 819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
> trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
> have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
> Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
> plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
bow
> of the canopy near the track.
>
> Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The
pictures
> might save you 900 words or more.
>
> Howard Cochran
> Mooresville, NC
> 1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
> Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Rv-8 Parking Brake |
Ed,
I have some pictures posted here:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/brake_valve.html
that show the Matco valve installed in an RV-9A. I don't know how much this
will help in an RV-8.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
> . I now have to add one qt of AeroShell
> 15W-50 between changes, but I'm not upset, because now that I have added a
> spin-on filter, the changes are 50 hrs apart. So that's my oil consumption
> story: 1 qt/50 hrs, and I'm stickin' to it.
I forgot to add, in keeping with the title of this thread, that my cylinders
are plain, old-fashioned steel.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob U <rv3(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: What do I need to know to build an RV-3 |
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Robin Mckee"
>
> I want to build an RV-3 with strong wings. Can I just build and then
> have it licensed or must it be inspected as I build each part..?
> Where do I find info about RV wings and how to make them stronger?
> What is best part to build first?
> Robin
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Unless you are a qualified, a REALLY QUALIFIED engineer,
do not modify anything to do with structural integrity.
Building according to kit instructions is your best guarantee of
having the maximum safety Van intended the design to have.
When you are finished building, the FAA or the designee will inspect
your project.
Normally, the tail feathers are done first.
BTW....
If you are building one of the new kits, the critical wing
pieces are prebuilt by the factory to specifications.
Feel free to contact Van's if you have questions.
You will find great factory support.
Bob Urban
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder question |
Eric Newton wrote:
>
>
> Rocky,
> I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but if you can slip a fingernail
> under most of the rivets on the HS and/or VS I would have to reject it and
> start over. You might want to get an A&P or experienced RV builder to take
> a look. Call Vans before you give it up but it seems to me it would not be
> safe if it is as you have described it. Just my opinion.
> Let us know what happens,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net>
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: New builder question
>
> >
> > As a first time builder I ordered my RV-9A emp kit from Van's and a
> > bunch of tools from Avery. After finishing the HS and the VS all is
> > well. While working on the rudder 'the problem' arose.
> >
> > Most all rivits on the first 2 pieces were taped when set, (electrical
> > tape - believe it or not it works great, more on that later) and looked
> > just fine. I have been comparing my work with 2 other RV's flying now.
> > I first noticed that my dimples looked a lot bigger in diameter than
> > theirs. Maybe 50 % bigger than the rivit head. Theirs were maybe 5%
> > bigger.
> >
> > Now heres the problem. It turns out that my dimple dies for 3/32 have a
> > 1/8 size female half! So the dimples are oversized and shallow,
> > something like maybe a 110 degree angle. The rivit heads set without the
> > tape have a gap under the factory head I can slip a fingernail under!
> >
> > I called Avery and told them the problem and they are sending me a new
> > correct size dimple set piece at no charge with no questions. Thats
> > service and support!!!
> >
> > It seems that when I used the tape over the heads (PVC electrical tape)
> > that the tape deformed the heads just enough to push the outside edge
> > down and touch the dimple.
> >
> > The question on all our minds (mine anyway) is what do I do about the
> > other rivits (maybe 200 or so) with the gap under the head edge? I cant
> > tape over them and re-set them.
> >
> > Rocky 'Trim tab'
> > RV-9A emp
> > www.hoe-thing.com
> > in deep doo-doo with rivits
> >
> >
>
Ask Van if you can drill out, dimple to the larger size, &
re-rivet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy Question |
Howard:
Sounds like you might need to shift the canopy forward or backwards on the
frame.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Just about ready for inspection
>From: W4PPN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Question
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 04:08:02 EDT
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: W4PPN(at)aol.com
>
>I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
>
>On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
>directions
>are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
>quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
>
>My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
>edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
>819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
>trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
>have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
>Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
>plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
>bow
>of the canopy near the track.
>
>Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The pictures
>might save you 900 words or more.
>
>Howard Cochran
>Mooresville, NC
>1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
>Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Canopy Question |
Hi Howard,
Thankfully, it's been a couple years since I did this, but here's what I
remember. First, my canopy didn't have any factory marks, but I've heard
they're pretty close if you have them. I don't recall anything critical
about the amount of overhang that you leave over the canopy frame rail
(819?- the mostly horizontal tube you rivet the canopy to). My advice would
be to leave as much overhang as you can (at least an inch) until you get the
canopy laying down properly everywhere. Once everything is in place, you
can decide how much overhang you want to leave permanently. Originally, I
think I left about 3/4 inch beyond the bottom of the tube, but noticed a few
areas that had tiny little cracks forming at the edges of the plexi. This
was probably from handling the canopy so much during the fitting. Just
before I installed the canopy for good, I trimmed another 1/4 inch or so
from the areas with the tiny cracks, to get rid of the affected area. That
left me with about a half inch overhang in most places.
If you want some pictures, drop me a mailing address off-list, and I'll send
you a CD with everything I have. I'll open this offer up to anyone else on
the list as well, and I'll do it for the low-low price of nothing. You just
have to promise not to sue me if you copy something I did and find out it's
a bad idea :-)
Russell Duffy
80587, N174KT (flying 75 hrs)
Navarre, FL
My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
bow
of the canopy near the track.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
I gave a fairly lengthy reply to Ed O'Connor . . . I mounted mine exactly as
you're wanting to do . . . however, to have the control cable run above the
valve I ended up riveting a "new" arm on the original parking brake valve
arm. The "original" arm points forward, toward the baggage compartment, and
was cut a bit shorter. The new arm points toward the pilot and moves such
that you can bring a control cable down to it (I didn't want anything coming
"up" to it in that this could get in the way of feet and legs).
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <RICKRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake
>
> In a message dated 10/13/01 12:52:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
>
>
> > I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It
comes
> > with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
> > specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent
untold
> > hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
> > descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to
set
> > Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
> > Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after.
I
> > also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules
had
> > installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help
would
> > be appreciated.
> >
> > Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
> > Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
> >
> >
>
> Please reply on list, I am having a similar dilema. I planned on mounting
my
> valve at the bottom center of the rear bulkhead for the forward baggage
> compartment. I cant't figure how to run the brake control cable from this
> location due to the non-adjustable throw of the parking brake arm.
>
> Rick McBride
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question |
I'm not sitting in front of the plans, so I'm not sure what this 819 is?
Regardless . . . I found on Van's canopy that you trim a bit, set the canopy
on the canopy frame and roll bar . . . trim a bit more, etc. etc. etc. I
made sure I had a center-line on the canopy so that it wasn't off in a yaw
direction. I also measured down both sides so that I didn't have it
"tilted" (banked) on one side or the other. The key, in my case, was to
keep trimming the sides until you could reach inside and feel, perhaps one
finger width of gap between the top of the canopy and the roll bar. Once I
was there, I cut the canopy, forming the wind screen and the back of the
canopy. Once this cut was made, the whole thing slid down appropriately.
Then I trimmed the canopy side edges so that they were just below the lowest
tubes of the canopy frame. One editorial comment. After doing all of this,
I decided on a thicker canopy (noise reduction) and darker canopy (sunlight
reduction) from Todd's Canopies. Todd's comes with the side trim already
done, and it fit like a glove. Van's took two weekends to install. Todd's
took four hours (of course, I didn't have the learning curve). One other
caveat: Try to make sure the rear section of the canopy frame has been bent
to the dimensions shown on the plans (i.e. how it sticks up over the canopy
slide in back). How well the canopy skirt fits is related to how well this
dimension is achieved. Good luck
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <W4PPN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Question
>
> I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
>
> On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
directions
> are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
> quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
>
> My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
> edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on
the
> 819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
> trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
> have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
> Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
> plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
bow
> of the canopy near the track.
>
> Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The
pictures
> might save you 900 words or more.
>
> Howard Cochran
> Mooresville, NC
> 1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
> Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy Question |
One other hint on the canopy. If you draw a center line followed by a 1" x
1" or so grid on your top skin and label the numbers, starting with 0 on the
center line, then 1 left, 1 right, 2 left, 2 right, etc. it is easy to
center the canopy, make sure left and right "match", know how far forward to
move it, etc. etc. etc.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Canopy Question
>
> Howard:
>
> Sounds like you might need to shift the canopy forward or backwards on the
> frame.
>
> George Kilishek
> N888GK
> Just about ready for inspection
>
>
> >From: W4PPN(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Question
> >Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 04:08:02 EDT
> >
> >--> RV8-List message posted by: W4PPN(at)aol.com
> >
> >I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
> >
> >On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
> >directions
> >are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
> >quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
> >
> >My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the
bottom
> >edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on
the
> >819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
> >trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we
still
> >have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
> >Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
> >plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
> >bow
> >of the canopy near the track.
> >
> >Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The
pictures
> >might save you 900 words or more.
> >
> >Howard Cochran
> >Mooresville, NC
> >1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
> >Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | O-360 in RV9 more..... |
I want to clarify my intentions. I want to use the SL 360 from
Superior Air Parts. It is about $3000 less than a new O320 from Van's. It
will run on Auto fuel without voiding the warranty. If you aren't familiar
with this engine, check out the October issue of Kitplanes Magazine. They
have made some tremendous improvements over the factory O360.
I plan to de-rate the horsepower to 160. If I don't exceed
approximately 22 in. of mp. I won't exceed 160hp. This way the engine will
last longer, I won't exceed Vne and I will get better climb and cruise at
higher density altitudes.
Thanks for the help. Keep that information coming.
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV9 quick build ready to ship |
I got a call from Van's yesterday. My quick build kit is ready for crating
and shipping. That is good news since I wasn't expecting it so soon.
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
restrictions on VFR flights Wednesday for most airports. Hope it's true.
NY and DCA will remain closed for now.
Dave Burton
RV6, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
I installed the Matco parking brake valve on my RV8. I mounted it to the
bulkhead were the lines would normally mount, that is on centerline, just aft
of the pedals. The valve is easily reachable so no cable is required. One
point of interest, the ports on the valve are spaced too close together to
install a standard AN822 fitting, which means you have to use swivel
fittings. These are available from Earls, but cost twenty some bucks each,
and you need four of them.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
> I don't even like a system
> where you can't prop it to start. That ability has saved me from being
> stranded a few times.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
Larry, you CAN hand prop a Lasar system, in fact it's easier than with an
impulse coupling due to the hotter spark and optimized timing. In fact it
only takes 9.X volts for the Lasar to generate a spark, so your battery can
be run down and the Lasar will still have enough juice to fire.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 more..... |
> I want to clarify my intentions. I want to use the SL 360 from
> Superior Air Parts. It is about $3000 less than a new O320 from Van's.
It
> will run on Auto fuel without voiding the warranty. If you aren't
familiar
> with this engine, check out the October issue of Kitplanes Magazine. They
> have made some tremendous improvements over the factory O360.
> I plan to de-rate the horsepower to 160. If I don't exceed
> approximately 22 in. of mp. I won't exceed 160hp. This way the engine
will
> last longer, I won't exceed Vne and I will get better climb and cruise at
> higher density altitudes.
>
> Thanks for the help. Keep that information coming.
> Paul
> 90355
Paul, how do you plan to take off? How do you plan to break the engine in?
In my opinion restricitng operation to 22" mp is not realistic, and why put
the weight up there if you're not going to use it?
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
> My overhauled O-320 would go 25 hrs between changes and only
> consume a quart, which I seldom ever bothered to add. I never filled the
> crank case all the way up, rather I used 7 qts where 8 were called for.
If it > got below 6, I was going to add a qt between changes. I may have
done
> this once.
I like Bill's method of not filling the sump. I learned very early in my
aircraft ownership that one just throws out the first quart or two when one
fills up the sump. I don't put 7 quarts in mine, though. I just put in six
quarts and fill it back up when it gets down to 5 quarts. I found that mine
used oil faster when I put in 7 quarts. Of course, our milage varies
depending on how we fly our airplanes. The best I've ever gotten has been
about 16 hours before having to add oil. Not sure why; but, it could be the
15-50 vs straight weight oils that determine that. For the price, I'll add
the extra oil. Remember, I'm cheap. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 for sale |
I tried to contact them via email directly - so far no response. I'll try
phone next week...
Anyone know what the "D" stands for?
Ralph Capen
< I have a used Lycoming O360A1F6D, 180 HP engine available if someone
> wants to buy it for an experimental aircraft. It has about 1,900 hours
> on it, is still flying just fine in my Cardinal and was just through its
> annual in September. I am replacing it with a Lycoming factory overhaul
> when it arrives about a month from now. If no one is interested in it,
> I will send my engine to Lycoming as a core. I would sell this engine
> as is for $9,500 complete with dual magneto, starter, plugs and wires,
> plus carb heat airbox and electric HotPadd sump heater. If you are
> interested, please call Chuck Cornell at 319-268-2969 or e-mail me at
> cornell.chuck(at)cfu.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fuel vent pipe |
> Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
> fuz?
> I was thinking of running the vent pipe along the back of the tank along
> the top flange then down at the outboard end and exit the bottom of the
> wing just aft of the fwd row of screws
No. Van has the fuel vent line going into the fuselage so that it can travel
up to the level of the longerons then back down to the belly. This prevents
expensive fuel from sloshing out of the tank. Please direct your question to
Vans tech support if you have any further doubts. Also note that I am not an
expert, I'm only trying to help.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety & operating costs |
Having followed the RV-list for some years now I get the feeling that in
general the priority for a lot of the builders seems to be on
performance rather than safety. My priority has always been on safety
and that is why I thought this would be a good time to pass along some
of my thoughts on the subject. The current discussion on installing a
0360 in the RV-9 has triggered this post.
The statistics show that the leading cause of accidents for the RV's is
engine failures so will limit this to firewall forward. Van by choosing
the Lycoming engines to power his aircraft took the first major step
towards safety. These engines new or overhauled in a proper facility are
capable of running 2000 hours plus without failure if properly installed
and handled in a caring manner.
The rules that I follow in my installations are:
(1) Select the engine model recommended by Van.
In the case of the RV 9 the 0320 is an excellent choice. I had the
opportunity to fly the factory demo equipped with a 0320 and MT prop and
have never flown a aircraft that was so free of vibration. It gets of
shorter and climbs and cruises very close to my 0360 RV 6.
If one fly's the engines as recommended by Lycoming which is 75% max
continuous the difference in HP between the 0360 and the 0320 would be
around 15 HP and 13HP at 65%. I have found over the years that 65% is
the best setting to keep the maintenance and fuel costs down.The extra
13 HP of the 0360 will probably only increase the cruise by something
under 10 MPH. If you flew the 0360 with a fixed pitch and the 0320 with
an MT the 0320 will out perform the 0360 except for cruise. The
difference in time on a 600 mile flight between the two engines would be
in the order of 10-15 minutes.
(2) First choice would be new from Van or Bart if I could afford it.
Second would be a first run time-xed overhauled by Bart.
Third would be a part time first run inspected and run in the test
stand by Bart.
I would be comfortable taking a engine such as the 0320 currently for
sale with good records then ship it to Bart for inspection and run in
the test stand. Bart would make the decision with you and doing a top
overhaul or not. Then with proper handling one could expect to go to
2500 hours without a problem, probably five plus years for the average
builder. This would give you a good engine for around half the price of
a new one.
For those of you who have not already pushed the delete key and are
interested in how I have handled these engines over the years you can
find a post in the achieves.
Would like to follow this with some of my rules on installation at a
later date if there is some interest. Contact me of the list.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing cowlings on the 6A and
planning first flight in the spring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety & operating costs |
Eustace
Please do follow up with engine installation
suggestions, I personally have learned from your
experince and have a fine flying machine do to some of
your input.
Joe
RV6A
--- Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> Having followed the RV-list for some years now I get
> the feeling that in
> general the priority for a lot of the builders seems
> to be on
> performance rather than safety. My priority has
> always been on safety
> and that is why I thought this would be a good time
> to pass along some
> of my thoughts on the subject. The current
> discussion on installing a
> 0360 in the RV-9 has triggered this post.
>
> The statistics show that the leading cause of
> accidents for the RV's is
> engine failures so will limit this to firewall
> forward. Van by choosing
> the Lycoming engines to power his aircraft took the
> first major step
> towards safety. These engines new or overhauled in a
> proper facility are
> capable of running 2000 hours plus without failure
> if properly installed
> and handled in a caring manner.
>
> The rules that I follow in my installations are:
>
> (1) Select the engine model recommended by Van.
>
> In the case of the RV 9 the 0320 is an excellent
> choice. I had the
> opportunity to fly the factory demo equipped with a
> 0320 and MT prop and
> have never flown a aircraft that was so free of
> vibration. It gets of
> shorter and climbs and cruises very close to my 0360
> RV 6.
>
> If one fly's the engines as recommended by Lycoming
> which is 75% max
> continuous the difference in HP between the 0360 and
> the 0320 would be
> around 15 HP and 13HP at 65%. I have found over the
> years that 65% is
> the best setting to keep the maintenance and fuel
> costs down.The extra
> 13 HP of the 0360 will probably only increase the
> cruise by something
> under 10 MPH. If you flew the 0360 with a fixed
> pitch and the 0320 with
> an MT the 0320 will out perform the 0360 except for
> cruise. The
> difference in time on a 600 mile flight between the
> two engines would be
> in the order of 10-15 minutes.
>
> (2) First choice would be new from Van or Bart if
> I could afford it.
> Second would be a first run time-xed
> overhauled by Bart.
> Third would be a part time first run inspected
> and run in the test
> stand by Bart.
>
> I would be comfortable taking a engine such as the
> 0320 currently for
> sale with good records then ship it to Bart for
> inspection and run in
> the test stand. Bart would make the decision with
> you and doing a top
> overhaul or not. Then with proper handling one could
> expect to go to
> 2500 hours without a problem, probably five plus
> years for the average
> builder. This would give you a good engine for
> around half the price of
> a new one.
>
> For those of you who have not already pushed the
> delete key and are
> interested in how I have handled these engines over
> the years you can
> find a post in the achieves.
>
> Would like to follow this with some of my rules on
> installation at a
> later date if there is some interest. Contact me of
> the list.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing cowlings
> on the 6A and
> planning first flight in the spring.
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribe
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 S/N 80039 FLIES!!! |
together for the first time after 5.5 years of building. The flight was
cut short due to cylinder head temps approaching the red on three
cylinders but it flew perfectly. After some high speed taxi tests I
couldn't come up with a reason not to go...so I pushed the power up and
we went straight down the runway, at about 60 mph I eased the stick back
at we gracefully climbed out over the fall foliage. The plane was a
stable as a rock with no wing drops or yaw problems. I did not get to
do any stalls...but since everything besides the engine temps was
perfect I decided to fly a normal pattern to landing.
Downwind at 80 mph 1/2 flaps, base at 75 mph, final at 70 mph with full
flaps. I carried power until I cleared the power lines then lowered the
nose and made a perfect three point landing. I even surprised myself.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 for sale |
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
> I tried to contact them via email directly - so far no response. I'll try
> phone next week...
>
> Anyone know what the "D" stands for?
>
> Ralph Capen
>
My notes say
same as -A1F6 but with D4LN-3000 impulse coupling magnetos
Roger Embree
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 for sale |
The "D" stands for 1 Bendix D4LN-2021 Dual Magneto - In Place of 2 Magnetos.
Don Eaves
RV6 - Back Flying Monday!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 0-360 for sale
>
> I tried to contact them via email directly - so far no response. I'll try
> phone next week...
>
> Anyone know what the "D" stands for?
>
> Ralph Capen
>
> <
> > I have a used Lycoming O360A1F6D, 180 HP engine available if someone
> > wants to buy it for an experimental aircraft. It has about 1,900 hours
> > on it, is still flying just fine in my Cardinal and was just through its
> > annual in September. I am replacing it with a Lycoming factory overhaul
> > when it arrives about a month from now. If no one is interested in it,
> > I will send my engine to Lycoming as a core. I would sell this engine
> > as is for $9,500 complete with dual magneto, starter, plugs and wires,
> > plus carb heat airbox and electric HotPadd sump heater. If you are
> > interested, please call Chuck Cornell at 319-268-2969 or e-mail me at
> > cornell.chuck(at)cfu.net.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | High Cylinder Head Temps |
On my initial test flight today the cylinder head temps rose to around
500 on climb out, on three cylinders, oil temps stayed under 200. It
was a warm afternoon above 80. The temps dropped as I slowed to enter
the pattern. I found one baffle seal out of place in the front baffle
floor. I will fix that and check the rest tomorrow. Does anyone have
any other ideas for me to check?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 more..... |
Randy,
After looking at the numbers, it would actually be more like 26.5
in mp at sea level on a standard day.
As for the extra weight, were talking 15 lbs., not really a
factor. And I would use the extra power. Any time the density altitude is
above sea level, which is almost every time I will fly the airplane. You
have to remember that an O320 develops 160hp at sea level on a standard day.
Anything above that and your developing less hp.
I just figure I'm getting more engine for $3000 less, because its
a kit engine, I will do the labor to put it together.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
John,
Actually, there is another choice,Cermi Nil by E.C.I. which is better than
any of the others. It breaks in readily and wears well. Cermi Chrome is just
about dead- too many problems. Chrome wears well but is slow to break in and
your cylinders will run hotter. The best choice of all is plain (or
nitrided ) steel but if you must coat to get back to standard size, go with
Cermi Nil. Going to +.010 is another option but Oversize pistons and Rings
are expensive.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
A&P
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Coatings
>
> Listners,
> I am going to rebuild a runout engine and need some advice in
> regard to the different types of coatings available for the cylinder
> walls. The way I understand it, there are three different ways to go:
> chrome plating the cylinder walls, Cermi Chrome plating and Nu Chrome
> plating. I have heard that the Cermi Chrome process does not hold up
> well and can lead to big problems. Regular chrome plating holds up well
> but it is hard to get the rings to seat. I know nothing of Nu Chrome.
>
> If anyone has knowledge, experience or advice, I would like to hear
> from you.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs and RV7 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
The RV8 plans have referred me to DWG 41 for guidance on building the boards
that go in the tail cone so you can crawl back there while building. I see
nothing on DWG 41 or anywhere else related to the temporary floor. Where is
it?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 more..... |
It would be better to reduce the Redline RPM instead of trying to minimize the
MP.
Gary
Paulbaird(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I want to clarify my intentions. I want to use the SL 360 from
> Superior Air Parts. It is about $3000 less than a new O320 from Van's. It
> will run on Auto fuel without voiding the warranty. If you aren't familiar
> with this engine, check out the October issue of Kitplanes Magazine. They
> have made some tremendous improvements over the factory O360.
> I plan to de-rate the horsepower to 160. If I don't exceed
> approximately 22 in. of mp. I won't exceed 160hp. This way the engine will
> last longer, I won't exceed Vne and I will get better climb and cruise at
> higher density altitudes.
>
> Thanks for the help. Keep that information coming.
> Paul
> 90355
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety & operating costs |
In a message dated 10/13/01 11:08:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
<< If one fly's the engines as recommended by Lycoming which is 75% max
continuous the difference in HP between the 0360 and the 0320 would be
around 15 HP and 13HP at 65%. I have found over the years that 65% is
the best setting to keep the maintenance and fuel costs down.The extra
13 HP of the 0360 will probably only increase the cruise by something
under 10 MPH. If you flew the 0360 with a fixed pitch and the 0320 with
an MT the 0320 will out perform the 0360 except for cruise. The
difference in time on a 600 mile flight between the two engines would be
in the order of 10-15 minutes. >>
Agreed but there are those times at high density altitude when those extra
ponies will be all that's between you and the trees. I will take the O-360
every time.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Dwg 42, lower left corner.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: floor boards
The RV8 plans have referred me to DWG 41 for guidance on building the boards
that go in the tail cone so you can crawl back there while building. I see
nothing on DWG 41 or anywhere else related to the temporary floor. Where is
it?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
I am doing the wiring on my RV6A and I am looking for a pin & socket
plug to go through the firewall. back in my Navy days as an AD we had
CANON PLUGS that went with the QEC. All the wiring went through two
canon plugs making engine changes very simple. What is available now
for home builders to use rather than having to bunch a bunch of wires
together and run them through the firewall to their various components?
I have found some plastic sets...but I need fire resistant.
Any help appreciated:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | new builder questiion re:rivits |
I had a crazy thought (it happens now and then), Why couldn't I make a
rivit set straight with a minor cupped head the size of the rivit heads
and then set down the edge of the rivits so they fit into the oversized
dimples. Wouldn't this serve as a soloution to my problem (other than
having some indents about the edge rather than a glass smooth finish)?
It would appear that if it works I wouldn't have to drill out a bunch of
rivits... Might be worth a try rather then scrapping hours of work.
BTW I got 7 or 8 answers to the previous question. Thanks for the
replies people!!!! I know its not good as is but looking for acceptable
ways out of this mess.
Rocky 'Trim Tab'
RV-9A EMP
in deep doo-doo with rivits
www.hoe-thing.com
I figured I had nothing to lose so I tried the above test. Made a rivit
set out of an old allen wrench and turned the tip down to the same size
as the rivit head and cut a small depression in he tip and tried it.
Well..... It worked except for the large dimples and the heads are now
jjust a bit round topped. But oh well for now. I may get a wild hair and
build a new rudder later but they look tight and thats the most
important part right?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
I've got a question about rivet tape...or more specifically Scotch magic
tape. Whenever I pull the tape off, as soon as it gets to the center of a
rivet, the tape invariably splits. That little dimple in the flush head
always trips the tape up. Sometimes I can wiggle the tape just right and
avoid it, but 90% of the time the tape splits and I have to start peeling
again. Not the end of the world, but I assume *somebody* out there knows a
trick or two.
I tried rubbing the tape on my shirt before I put it on, in hopes of taking
away some of the adhesion, but that seemed negligible.
Anybody got tape pulling mastered and want to comment?
Thanks,
)_( Dan
http://www.rvproject.com
N747DC RV-7 empennage (nearing completion)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I'm planning to use the paint scheme from the new T-6A (joint USAF / Navy
trainer) on my RV-8A. Is there some sort of military spec available for
the exact layout of the US "stars and bars" ensignia? Also, is there
some sort of mil spec calling out the colors of blue and red used for it?
I could just try to match the colors and layout as closely as possible,
but if there's a readily available spec for this stuff I'd like to know
where I could get my hands on it.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Try the thicker Scotch package wrapping tape instead of magic mending tape
if you're not already doing that. Even the heavier tape will sometime split
but not nearly as often. Several sources sell a tape specifically for
riveting. The difference is that is has no adhesive down the center, only
on the edges.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits!
>
> I've got a question about rivet tape...or more specifically Scotch magic
> tape. Whenever I pull the tape off, as soon as it gets to the center of a
> rivet, the tape invariably splits. That little dimple in the flush head
> always trips the tape up. Sometimes I can wiggle the tape just right and
> avoid it, but 90% of the time the tape splits and I have to start peeling
> again. Not the end of the world, but I assume *somebody* out there knows
a
> trick or two.
>
> I tried rubbing the tape on my shirt before I put it on, in hopes of
taking
> away some of the adhesion, but that seemed negligible.
>
> Anybody got tape pulling mastered and want to comment?
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> http://www.rvproject.com
> N747DC RV-7 empennage (nearing completion)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Hi Dan,
Dang pain in the arse ain't it? (;-}!
I Just lived with it until I was given a partial roll of tape.
I don't know the proper name for it but 3M. Scotch Brand makes a tape that
is Green on both outer edges and clear with no glue in the center. It comes
on a roll that is about a half inch wide and the same diameter as masking
tape.
I have a small amount that was given to me. Without a doubt the best for
placing rivets! I have been known to peeled it off after riveting and reuse
it more than once.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits!
>
> I've got a question about rivet tape...or more specifically Scotch magic
> tape. >
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> http://www.rvproject.com
> N747DC RV-7 empennage (nearing completion)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder questiion re:rivits |
>I had a crazy thought (it happens now and then), Why couldn't I make
>a rivit set straight with a minor cupped head the size of the rivit heads
>and then set down the edge of the rivits so they fit into the oversized
>dimples. Wouldn't this serve as a soloution to my problem (other than
>having some indents about the edge rather than a glass smooth finish)?
I'm not sure I understand your proposed solution. But either way it seems to
me you're still flirting with the unknown, with respect to whether the
strength is going to be the same as it is as originally engineered.
Take some advice from one who's "been there, done that": Bite the bullet and
do what you have to do. I can't count the number of hours I've spent
fretting over having to redo or fix something, trying to justify not doing
it, or trying to come up with some way around it.... and pretty much every
one of those times, once I finally resigned myself to do what had to be
done, it turned out to be much less big of a deal than I was afraid it would
be.
I know a lot of people who have built 2 and even 3 of the same control
surface. I know a guy who built a whole new tail, and I know he's not the
only one. I have my own long list of boo-boos -- the "practice part" pile
got pretty big in my shop by the time I was done with my plane.
So bite the bullet, fix or replace the part, and move on with your project!
At least you'll be in good company.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au> |
| Subject: | prop harmonic balancer |
Hi
Has anyone heard of or used a propellor harmonic balancer ?
i have heard of an item which bolts on between the prop and crank and it
is supposed to smooth out vibration specially when using a wooden prop?
does anyone know anything about it? or who might know?
Dave T
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/13/2001 10:24:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
>
>
Mark, Back in the (old days) when cars had generators
there was an armature tester that created an alternating flux field. They are
great for de gaussing steel.If you can find one of these in your town, your
in. For anyone in So Cal, I`ve got one.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Radio Shack used to sell a tape eraser. If they still do, that *might* work.
The more powerful the better. You may have to work it for a long time.
Remember to turn it on at a distance, then slowly move it all the way to the
metal, all over, around and along it, and then *slowly* move it away to a
good distance before you turn it of.
Works well on TVs, monitors, etc.
Finn
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Ask your local machine shop. After they use the magnetic chuck on the
surface grinder, they often need to degauss the part. It is a cube, 18
inches on a side, that hums ominously.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: Re: RV-List: degaussing
Radio Shack used to sell a tape eraser. If they still do, that *might* work.
The more powerful the better. You may have to work it for a long time.
Remember to turn it on at a distance, then slowly move it all the way to the
metal, all over, around and along it, and then *slowly* move it away to a
good distance before you turn it of.
Works well on TVs, monitors, etc.
Finn
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | High Cylinder Head Temps |
What were you using for a climb speed? Try a "cruise climb" of 130 mph or
even more. Is the engine broken in?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CiminoJim
Subject: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
On my initial test flight today the cylinder head temps rose to around
500 on climb out, on three cylinders, oil temps stayed under 200. It
was a warm afternoon above 80. The temps dropped as I slowed to enter
the pattern. I found one baffle seal out of place in the front baffle
floor. I will fix that and check the rest tomorrow. Does anyone have
any other ideas for me to check?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Dan, I am using the removeable majic tape 811. Most of the time I can use
the same piece several times. (I am not that thrifty, it's just faster than
getting another piece.) You might check to see if the rivet heads are set
flush in the dimple so as not to tear your tape.
Randy Hooper
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
You can buy this tape from Van's. page 50 of the 2000 catalog.
jh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jim jewell
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits!
Hi Dan,
Dang pain in the arse ain't it? (;-}!
I Just lived with it until I was given a partial roll of tape.
I don't know the proper name for it but 3M. Scotch Brand makes a tape that
is Green on both outer edges and clear with no glue in the center. It comes
on a roll that is about a half inch wide and the same diameter as masking
tape.
I have a small amount that was given to me. Without a doubt the best for
placing rivets! I have been known to peeled it off after riveting and reuse
it more than once.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits!
>
> I've got a question about rivet tape...or more specifically Scotch magic
> tape. >
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> http://www.rvproject.com
> N747DC RV-7 empennage (nearing completion)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
A tool you may have or have access to will do the job. The Weller pistol
type soldering gun when energized has a degaussing field. This was suggested
to me by an avionics shop when I once had a compass problem. It worked well.
Randy Hooper
RV-8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Radio Shack used to sell a tape eraser. If they still do, that *might* work.
> The more powerful the better. You may have to work it for a long time.
>
> Remember to turn it on at a distance, then slowly move it all the way to the
> metal, all over, around and along it, and then *slowly* move it away to a
> good distance before you turn it of.
>
> Works well on TVs, monitors, etc.
>
> Finn
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> > How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> > to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> > before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> > such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> > more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A fuselage
> >
> >
>
Find someone who works for a TV or computer repair shop.
Picture tube degaussers are coils of wire, ~1' in diameter.
MUCH more powerful than tape head degausers, but if you
don't use proper technique, you can turn the roll bar into a
fairly strong magnet. Get the tech to do your degaussing for
you, or be sure you understand the instructions on how to
use the tool.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Stars and Bars |
Might contact Dave Wilson. His RV-8 is painted in the manner you describe.
WilsonD(at)KnoxNet.net Dave lives in Galesburg Illinois.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stars and Bars
Guys,
I'm planning to use the paint scheme from the new T-6A (joint USAF / Navy
trainer) on my RV-8A. Is there some sort of military spec available for
the exact layout of the US "stars and bars" ensignia? Also, is there
some sort of mil spec calling out the colors of blue and red used for it?
I could just try to match the colors and layout as closely as possible,
but if there's a readily available spec for this stuff I'd like to know
where I could get my hands on it.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Dan, when using Magic Tape, I put on a double layer and find that it splits less
often. Another option is to buy a roll of the "true" riveters tape as sold by
Van's and others. The true riveters tape does not have adhesive down the center
and does not stick to the rivet itself. The problem with the true riveters
tape is that it is on a 3" core and you need a large-sized tape dispenser (which
cost about $25). Henry Gorgas
claims that the green color of the riveters tape leaves a colored residue behind.
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
Doug,
Help me out here. I want to make sure I did this right. I used Bob
Nuckoll's schematic Appendix Figure Z1.
Bob shows to ground the shielding to the magneto case at the magneto end of
the wire. The p-lead from the magneto it routed through the magneto switch
so that it will ground out to the other end of the sheilding. As fas as I
can tell, the magneto is being grounded out directly to its case via routing
through the instrument panel mag switch. Did I wire it correctly?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (reserved)
Painting!
> Bob Nuckoll's essential book on wiring has already been mentioned, and
> his advise (page 16-13) is to ground the p-lead shields at one end only.
> This supposedly inhibits their tendency to radiate RFI.
Also, in the unlikely event (no it never happens) that you forget to
reconnect
the main ground wire to the engine and hit the starter, all the starter
current
will be prevented from flowing through the p-lead shields.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Yep, start using regular ol' electrical tape instead. It's cheap and it
works great. You can get 4-5 rows of rivets out of one strip of tape, it
removes easy and fast, and it helps protect your work from scratches.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I've got a question about rivet tape...or more specifically Scotch magic
> tape. Whenever I pull the tape off, as soon as it gets to the center of a
> rivet, the tape invariably splits. That little dimple in the flush head
> always trips the tape up. Sometimes I can wiggle the tape just right and
> avoid it, but 90% of the time the tape splits and I have to start peeling
> again. Not the end of the world, but I assume *somebody* out there knows
a
> trick or two.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/13/01 8:23:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
<< I am doing the wiring on my RV6A and I am looking for a pin & socket
plug to go through the firewall. back in my Navy days as an AD we had
CANON PLUGS that went with the QEC. All the wiring went through two
canon plugs making engine changes very simple. What is available now
together and run them through the firewall to their various components?
I have found some plastic sets...but I need fire resistant. >>
A lot of the guys in our area are using the plastic ones and just keeping
them small so the penetrations are limited. Some of the electronics catalogs
(Digikey, Allied, Mouser, etc.) carry the MIL-C-5015 type connectors (like
those used on the modern Turn Coordinators). These are a good choice. They
are available in many different pin combinations and sizes and have solder
cup terminals.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Date: Saturday, October 13, 2001 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lasar Ignition
.. you CAN hand prop a Lasar system, in fact it's easier than with an
>impulse coupling due to the hotter spark and optimized timing. In fact it
>only takes 9.X volts for the Lasar to generate a spark, so your battery can
>be run down and the Lasar will still have enough juice to fire.
Randy: I jusst have one question: Theory or practice?? Have you ACTUALLY
hand proped a Lasar system?? Un(??)fortunately I have a Lasar and have the
same concern of getting stuck out in the boonies.
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| final tasks prior to inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
just get a roll of riviters tape from avery's. its about 3 dollars and will
last the entire project, you can use it more than once.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dag bern rivet tape...always splits! |
Thanks to everybody for the advice about various tape ideas.
> Dan, I am using the removeable majic tape 811. Most of the time I can
use
> the same piece several times. (I am not that thrifty, it's just faster
than
> getting another piece.) You might check to see if the rivet heads are set
> flush in the dimple so as not to tear your tape.
The rivets are definitely nice and flush, it's just the tiny center mark on
the AN426 rivets that trips the tape up. I'll go ahead and try what you
guys have suggested. Thanks again.
Let's see if I can finish these elevators today... 8
)
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Hello,
I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
spar flange.
Problem:
The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple. I
countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those who
have been here.
Regards and Thanks
Vince Himsl
RV8 fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Vince
If I am not mistaken here, i only dimpled the top skin(s). I did not
dimple or c.s. the 804 flanges I did c.s. the skins below the top
skins.
with all but the top skins in place and cleco'ed securely, I c.s'ed
using the holes in the layered skins and 804 is the guide.
My best bet would be to contact Van's before c.s.'ing the the 804
flanges that far.
however, even if the gauge you made lays not perfectly flat (WITHIN
REASON OF COURSE) the skin will still be pushed flush, The reason is
that the 'crater' created with a c.s. bit has a sharp transition from
flat to countersink hole. The 'dimple' created with a dimple die will
have a round transition. This rounding can lay a little up on the c.s.
hole.
I have done following before: C.s. a hole in a small block of aluminum
to what is to be the 'right ' dept. take your gauge and stick it in the
c.s. hole, now stick a rivet through the gauge and the hole in the alu
block. Tap it with the rivet gun LIGHTLY. the gauge will now have the
rounded transition removed. I find it gives a slightly better gauge fit
and slightly less deep dimpled holes. You should have hardly a marking
on you gauge. If you get a deep imprint, your dimpled hole was to
shallow or you used too much pressure to set your gauge.
Good luck
Gert
"Vincent S. Himsl" wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
> bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
>
> I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
> spar flange.
>
> Problem:
>
> The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
> countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple. I
> countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
>
> If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
>
> Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those who
> have been here.
>
> Regards and Thanks
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 fuselage
> Moscow, ID USA
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
> > How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> > to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> > before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> > such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> > more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A fuselage
> >
> >
>
> Mark, Back in the (old days) when cars had generators
> there was an armature tester that created an alternating flux field. They are
> great for de gaussing steel.If you can find one of these in your town, your
> in. For anyone in So Cal, I`ve got one.
> Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs
>
Listers,
The machine that Fred referred to was commonly called a "growler". You would
understand the name if you heard it being used to check a generator or starter
armature. Automotive electrical shops should have this tool. Boy, I guess I just
dated myself! :-)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage (no longer a slacker... the weather is better)
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi all,
Can any of the -6 builders tell me the "span" of a -6 tank? I'm considering
using a -6 tank on a -4.
marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto wiring |
Glenn, I'm not Doug...........but I did play him on TV once......... :-)
Yes, you have wired the mag correctly.
Good luck with your painting!
Sam Buchanan
===============================
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Doug,
> Help me out here. I want to make sure I did this right. I used Bob
> Nuckoll's schematic Appendix Figure Z1.
>
> Bob shows to ground the shielding to the magneto case at the magneto end of
> the wire. The p-lead from the magneto it routed through the magneto switch
> so that it will ground out to the other end of the sheilding. As fas as I
> can tell, the magneto is being grounded out directly to its case via routing
> through the instrument panel mag switch. Did I wire it correctly?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E (reserved)
> Painting!
>
>
> > Bob Nuckoll's essential book on wiring has already been mentioned, and
> > his advise (page 16-13) is to ground the p-lead shields at one end only.
> > This supposedly inhibits their tendency to radiate RFI.
>
> Also, in the unlikely event (no it never happens) that you forget to
> reconnect
> the main ground wire to the engine and hit the starter, all the starter
> current
> will be prevented from flowing through the p-lead shields.
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Vince,
It's possible to do a reasonably good job of "undimpling" a hole with a
pneumatic squeezer and two flat sets. I had to do this when I got overeager
and dimpled the holes on the tank skins that attach the drain flange.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuse arrives tomorrow!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange
>
> Hello,
>
> I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
> bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
>
> I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
> spar flange.
>
> Problem:
>
> The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
> countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple.
I
> countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
>
> If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
>
> Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those
who
> have been here.
>
> Regards and Thanks
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 fuselage
> Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Good advice... I took some scrap 1/8" sheet and made a bunch of different
depth countersinks and test-riveted dimpled sheet to it. I then cut the
piece in half along the rivet line so I could see a cross section of the
joint. (I ran it over the scotchbrite wheel to polish and clean it so I
could see really well) . It seems the best depth countersink for my dimple
dies is that which makes a flush rivet in the countersunk hole sit level
with the part, or just a little below - a few mils. If the countersink is
too deep it appears that the joint rapidly loses strength. If you size the
countersink to let a dimpled sheet sit flush its probably too deep. That's
with my dimple dies, though, others may vary. But I do recommend trying
this - it's easy (5 minutes, tops) and educational. After doing this
started running my countersinks so the rivet sits flush with the part. If
you try this you'll see what I mean, its better to go too shallow than too
deep.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange
however, even if the gauge you made lays not perfectly flat (WITHIN
REASON OF COURSE) the skin will still be pushed flush, The reason is
that the 'crater' created with a c.s. bit has a sharp transition from
flat to countersink hole. The 'dimple' created with a dimple die will
have a round transition. This rounding can lay a little up on the c.s.
hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis I. Willig" <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Copper brake lines |
I have had leaks occur on both wheels where Van's plastic brake lines fasten
to the wheel cylinder fitting. It seems that even a slight distortion of the
nylon hose/brass ferrul connection eventially breaks the seal. I suppose
heat from braking helps this along. Is there any prohibition from using,
let's say, 3"-to-6" of 1/4" copper line from the wheel cylinder and then
connect the copper line to the nylon hose? The advantage of the Nylon is
that you can easily see air pockets, and it easily runs thru the fuse to the
masters. Changing the whole system over to aeroquip would not be worth it.
But a few inches of copper would be. Sooo.... What is the experience of
others on the list? Your input will be valuable. Thanks.
Louis I. Willig
Penn Valley, PA 19072
(610) 668-4964
RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copper brake lines |
Louis,
On the 6/6A the plans call for 1/4" aluminum tubing all the way down the
gear legs to the wheel cylinders, with a generous loop at the wheel to
allow for movement. I think all the current RV designs use this method,
rather than plastic/nylon, which, as you say, can soften with the heat of
braking.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
>
>I have had leaks occur on both wheels where Van's plastic brake lines fasten
>to the wheel cylinder fitting. It seems that even a slight distortion of the
>nylon hose/brass ferrul connection eventially breaks the seal. I suppose
>heat from braking helps this along. Is there any prohibition from using,
>let's say, 3"-to-6" of 1/4" copper line from the wheel cylinder and then
>connect the copper line to the nylon hose? The advantage of the Nylon is
>that you can easily see air pockets, and it easily runs thru the fuse to the
>masters. Changing the whole system over to aeroquip would not be worth it.
>But a few inches of copper would be. Sooo.... What is the experience of
>others on the list? Your input will be valuable. Thanks.
>
>Louis I. Willig
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>(610) 668-4964
>RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety & operating costs |
So far no flames and some encouragement, so will add a few more lines.
Over the years many who have been involved in aviation have asked me for
advise on safety matters, a lot of it firewall forward and on engine
handling. I don't profess to be an expert on the subject I can only
relate what has worked for me. I try to eliminate as much as possible
everything that could cause an engine failure.
Building our own aircraft puts us in complete control of what is under
the cowlings, this from a safety point of view gives us the chance to
have a safer aircraft than a lot that are flying today.
Probably one of the most frequent answer I give to questions is " Never
cut corners on anything under the cowlings".
As I mentioned yesterday Van made a giant step towards our overall
safety by selecting the Lycoming engines to power our aircraft. Sure
they are expensive and fifty year old technology but they are the most
proven and reliable in the world in this category and because of this
are the safest and that is what we wont under the cowlings.
I mentioned yesterday my three choices when buying an engine. The first
two, new or overhauled in a recognized facility should again get us up
into that safest category. The part time first run is another matter,
regardless of good records, appearance and good compression we don't
know how it was handled, It may have been flown by a hot rodder or
someone that didn't have a clue about proper engine handling, like
proper leaning. Another question would be, are all the AD's up to date.
That is why I would not install it in my aircraft without it being
inspected and test run in a top notch facility.
As the builder of our aircraft we are permitted to do our own
maintenance. For me that is servicing only, like changing accessories,
prop installation,exhaust systems etc. I leave all major work like a top
overhaul, carb overhaul to the professionals. They are doing it
everyday and have the proper tools and facilities for repair and
inspection, again trying to increase the safety factor. Some of you are
going to take issue with this especially now with Superior offering the
engines as a kit. I am not familiar with this program but I do know that
unless one is qualified and has the proper tools and the ability to
inspect the parts and test run it you are going to be a long ways from
having an engine that is as safe as one built in a recognized facility.
An example would be as a first time engine builder would you recognize a
defective part. There is a lot more to building a quality engine than
most of us realize. With as many years as I have been around and working
on engines I will not build one for myself.
Talking to Bart he gets lots of requests when building an engine for
someone to increase the compression ratio above what it was when new.
His policy is yes a minor increase but anything over that you are on
your own. The reason being any increase will shorten the life of the
engine and increase the chance of failure. Why would we want do this
anyway when the end result would only be an increase of say something
under five miles an hour in an aircraft that is already scooting along
in that 160-190 MPH range.
As I said there is more to it than meets the eye here we have gone two
days and we haven't even got it hung yet.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
doyal plute wrote:
>
> I am doing the wiring on my RV6A and I am looking for a pin & socket
> plug to go through the firewall. back in my Navy days as an AD we had
> CANON PLUGS that went with the QEC. All the wiring went through two
> canon plugs making engine changes very simple. What is available now
> for home builders to use rather than having to bunch a bunch of wires
> together and run them through the firewall to their various components?
> I have found some plastic sets...but I need fire resistant.
> Any help appreciated:
> Doyal
Our local electrical supply store has them, I have had to get them for some
of the machinery at work. They call them ampennal plugs.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
The way I understand it for IFR flight an RV or any aircraft per part
91.205.d. would require an artificial horizon gyro and a directional
gyro. Does the Dynon with both gyros qualify for this as IFR equipment
even though they have not gone through the certification process for
production aircraft?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
So what if you run the battery down to 7.7 volts. Will it start?
>
> .. you CAN hand prop a Lasar system, in fact it's easier than with an
> >impulse coupling due to the hotter spark and optimized timing. In fact it
> >only takes 9.X volts for the Lasar to generate a spark, so your battery can
> >be run down and the Lasar will still have enough juice to fire.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copper brake lines |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Sunday, October 14, 2001, at 05:31 PM, Louis I. Willig wrote:
>
> I have had leaks occur on both wheels where Van's plastic brake lines
> fasten
> to the wheel cylinder fitting.
snip
> I suppose
> heat from braking helps this along. Is there any prohibition from using,
> let's say, 3"-to-6" of 1/4" copper line from the wheel cylinder and
> then
> connect the copper line to the nylon hose? The advantage of the Nylon is
> that you can easily see air pockets, and it easily runs thru the fuse
> to the
> masters. Changing the whole system over to aeroquip would not be worth
> it.
> But a few inches of copper would be. Sooo.... What is the experience of
> others on the list? Your input will be valuable. Thanks.
>
> Louis I. Willig
>
AFAIK, this is a -very- common type of failure with the plastic brake
lines, and not limited to RVs. We recently retrofit our AirCam after a
failure (during a crosswind landing rollout) and I'm aware of three RVs
on my home field that have been changed over.
The "accepted" local fix to flying airplanes where it is harder to
replace the whole line with aluminum is to replace the last 8" or so
with soft 1/4" aluminum tubing, and join to the plastic with a brass
union that you can order from Wicks or AS&S.
This takes only a couple of minutes and appears to be fairly robust. Of
course, the exact same fittings and plastic tubing have been trouble
free for over five years and thousands of hours on my refrigerator's
icemaker :-)
If it would help I'd be happy to take the digital camera out and get you
a jpeg...
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
It can be done. I once saw a 4 at Oshkosh that had the larger tanks
RV4 wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Can any of the -6 builders tell me the "span" of a -6 tank? I'm considering
> using a -6 tank on a -4.
>
> marcel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copper brake lines |
I used all steel braided Earl's hoses throughout the brake system. I would
not do it any other way. Installation is a piece of cake, no bending,
breaking flares, etc. More expensive, and slightly heavier, but no big
deal. It makes "snaking" the brake lines where you want a snap.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Copper brake lines
Louis,
On the 6/6A the plans call for 1/4" aluminum tubing all the way down the
gear legs to the wheel cylinders, with a generous loop at the wheel to
allow for movement. I think all the current RV designs use this method,
rather than plastic/nylon, which, as you say, can soften with the heat of
braking.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
>
>I have had leaks occur on both wheels where Van's plastic brake lines
fasten
>to the wheel cylinder fitting. It seems that even a slight distortion of
the
>nylon hose/brass ferrul connection eventially breaks the seal. I suppose
>heat from braking helps this along. Is there any prohibition from using,
>let's say, 3"-to-6" of 1/4" copper line from the wheel cylinder and then
>connect the copper line to the nylon hose? The advantage of the Nylon is
>that you can easily see air pockets, and it easily runs thru the fuse to
the
>masters. Changing the whole system over to aeroquip would not be worth it.
>But a few inches of copper would be. Sooo.... What is the experience of
>others on the list? Your input will be valuable. Thanks.
>
>Louis I. Willig
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>(610) 668-4964
>RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Marcel,
Check with John Harmon.
The Rocket is a RV-4 wing with bigger tanks.
Why reinvent the wheel.
Tom
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: RV4 <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 tanks
>
> Hi all,
>
> Can any of the -6 builders tell me the "span" of a -6 tank? I'm
considering
> using a -6 tank on a -4.
>
> marcel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Copper brake lines |
Dave Ronnenberg of Berquet uses 1/8" stainless.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis I. Willig" <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: Copper brake lines
I have had leaks occur on both wheels where Van's plastic brake lines fasten
to the wheel cylinder fitting. It seems that even a slight distortion of the
nylon hose/brass ferrul connection eventially breaks the seal. I suppose
heat from braking helps this along. Is there any prohibition from using,
let's say, 3"-to-6" of 1/4" copper line from the wheel cylinder and then
connect the copper line to the nylon hose? The advantage of the Nylon is
that you can easily see air pockets, and it easily runs thru the fuse to the
masters. Changing the whole system over to aeroquip would not be worth it.
But a few inches of copper would be. Sooo.... What is the experience of
others on the list? Your input will be valuable. Thanks.
Louis I. Willig
Penn Valley, PA 19072
(610) 668-4964
RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Somewhat RV related |
> [Well, folks, the First Amendment isn't designed to
> stifle stupid remarks. Rush, as he himself says, is
> "right, 97% of the time." This is a great example of
> the other 3%, and unfortunately it's aimed at us
> --ed].
No, Rush is wrong about 100% of the time. Its just that
this time WE happened to be the 3% he decided to
offend. Believe me, the other 97% of the population is
thinking, "hey Rush is right again, those small airplanes ARE
dangerous".
This time around, we, as pilots, hear what he is saying and since we
understand airplanes and flying we know Rush is mis-stating the
facts and trying to build a one-sided arguement instead of looking
at the issue from both sides.
Of course he has it all wrong. Remember that the next time Rush
decides to flame some OTHER special interest group. They
will probably exactly like we VFR pilots feel now.
Listen to Rush if you will, but please seek the truth elsewhere.
Getting off the soapbox now.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Some Questions... |
Hi all... I have a few questions...
First, take a look at this picture of my Prestolite 60A alternator. Can you
tell me what all needs to be hooked up to where?
http://vondane.tripod.com/alternator.jpg
Second, can somebody give me an idea of what amp fuses I should use for each
of these devices?
- fuel gauges (both)
- start button (energizes the start solenoid)
- hobbs meter
- aux power (cigarette lighter)
- map light (just one eyeball light)
- panel lights (two eyeball lights)
- landing lights (55 watt halogen w/wig-wag)
- nav lights (Whelen)
- strobes (Whelen, single PS)
- turn & bank
- boost pump / primer
- flaps
Should I do the cowl before the filtered air box?
How are you all running the wires to your fuel senders?
I know there was something else but can't think of it right now... I will
be posting some new pix to my web site in the morning...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Coastal Georgia Fall Fly-In |
The Coastal Georgia Fall Fly-In previously scheduled for September will
be held this coming Saturday 10/20/0,1 at Eagle Neck Air Park, 1GA0.
Eagle Neck is located on the Georgia coast half way between Savannah and
St. Simmons Island; a great location for a get-a-way weekend. There are
4 RV projects on the airport along with one completed and flying
airplane.
Email off line for further information.
do not achieve.
Dick Sipp
N250DS RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some Questions... |
Bill, it's obvious you don't have a copy of the "AeroElectric
Connection". :-)
This REALLY is a must-have book for somebody who is wiring a modern
airplane. If you don't want to buy the book, you can download Bob's
wiring schematics here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/errata.html
The schematics will show all the recommended fuse and wire
sizes.......along with a lot of clever wiring architecture (and how to
hook up the Prestolite boat anchor alternator :-) ).
Good luck with your project!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===========================
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Hi all... I have a few questions...
>
> First, take a look at this picture of my Prestolite 60A alternator. Can you
> tell me what all needs to be hooked up to where?
> http://vondane.tripod.com/alternator.jpg
>
> Second, can somebody give me an idea of what amp fuses I should use for each
> of these devices?
> - fuel gauges (both)
> - start button (energizes the start solenoid)
> - hobbs meter
> - aux power (cigarette lighter)
> - map light (just one eyeball light)
> - panel lights (two eyeball lights)
> - landing lights (55 watt halogen w/wig-wag)
> - nav lights (Whelen)
> - strobes (Whelen, single PS)
> - turn & bank
> - boost pump / primer
> - flaps
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copper brake lines |
I used aluminum tubing all the way down, as Chris described. No
problem in 289 hours.
> On the 6/6A the plans call for 1/4" aluminum tubing all the way down
> the gear legs to the wheel cylinders, with a generous loop at the
> wheel to allow for movement. I think all the current RV designs use
> this method, rather than plastic/nylon, which, as you say, can soften
> with the heat of braking.
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
********************************
The DCA Infinite TCA...
"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
********************************
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Is there anything wrong with running the mag end of the shield to the ground
block on the firewall and grounding it there?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 S/N 80039 FLIES!!! |
>together for the first time after 5.5 years of building.
Congratulations Jim!
Is this cool or what!
I just took my son up for the first time today. It just don't get any better than
this. I too have toasty CHT. It cools off at altitude but it can get in
the 440 range on steep climb out. I have a friend ( also an RVer ) who has had
really good luck with high temp silicone worked into fiberglass placed on top
of adjacent cylinders to contain the airflow. I'm going to give this a try.
He seems really happy with the results.
I still have to pinch myself every time I go up. Your going to have a blast.
- Jim Andrews
N89JA ( FLYING! )
RV-8A
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
Two things I can think of right off the top:
1. The breather line should run uphill from the fitting in the accessory
case as high and as long as possible. There is actually
a lot going on in that hose. A hot, heavy mist of oil and combustion
by-products and water vapour are pushed into this line and if it is routed
correctly the oil should settle out onto the hose walls and run back into
the engine while the rest goes overboard.
That's in an ideal world. How much is in the hose depends on the condition
of the engine internally. It is easy to follow through and see that if the
oil level is higher that there is that much more splashing and perhaps a
little foaming going on higher up in the engine and this is how the engine
appears to throw off the excess until it gets to a " comfortable" level.
2. I may be opening a can of worms here( not the first time), but I still
believe in single-weight lubricating oil. It seems pretty old-fashioned in
this SAE "SJ" world. The reason I feel it is superior-especially for
Lycomings with their high mounted valve train-is that,as it cools after
shutdown, it doesn't thin in viscosity which makes it run(strip is the
proper word) off the camshaft because it is stays thicker. The downside is
that it is a little thicker on the next start. You'd have to decide whether
it's more important to you to have an oil-film-covered camshaft turning a
few more times before getting lubrication or followers scuffing away at an
almost-bare camshaft for a slightly-shorter time.
The issue of oil protecting all those polished,bare-steel parts while the
engine sits still is another point. 15W-50 oil actually means that the
expensive and vulnerable parts inside the crankcase are only coated with
15-weight oil once it's cooled-that's got to be near the viscosity of WD-40
as far as the engine is concerned. I 'm not saying it needs Cosmoline or
whatever it is they put on weapons so they'll survive for years on the ocean
bottom but I think the thicker the better.
Another thought ( in for a penny, in for a pound?) is at the other end of
the spectrum. Fifty-weight oil was the old 100W and it is the recommended
viscosity when the ambient temperature is high, perhaps as the oil will be
thinned a little due to its temperature. But when the oil isn't as hot-as
when operating at higher altitudes or colder ambient temperatures-it will be
thicker than it needs to be and it takes horsepower to pump that stuff
through those passages. The actual oil film thickness on the bearing
journals and camshaft is based on the oil's molecular structure and blending
and is so thin that viscosity has very little effect on it. The three-litre
V6 in the family buggy spec's a lower viscosity oil than I'm used to because
it increases the horsepower by reducing the energy required to turn the oil
pump.. Using 15W-50 year round means that the engine is working a minute bit
harder than necessary when it isn't warm outside.
Scott in Vancouver
How clear everything becomes with only six hours sleep since Friday morning
and after crossing sixteen time zones!
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Coatings
>
>
> > . The 5-7 hours per quart you were
> > told about is pretty common; but, I'm getting 10-13 hours per quart on
mine.
> > That's pretty darned close to the usage I was getting on rebuilt steel
> > cylinders. I'm not getting any abnormal wear on the cylinders, either.
A
> > recent oil analysis proved that out.
>
>
> Mornin', Jim. Interesting observation; I'll add my experience.
>
> My overhauled O-320 would go 25 hrs between changes and only consume a
quart,
> which I seldom ever bothered to add. I never filled the crank case all
the
> way up, rather I used 7 qts where 8 were called for. If it got below 6, I
> was going to add a qt between changes. I may have done this once.
>
> After the unpleasantness with my cam and lifters grinding themselves into
> silver glitter last year, we did a tear down and a 160 hp upgrade, along
with
> something I considered a bit unorthodox but sensible: we replaced the old
> rings (in same order and location) on the new pistons and placed the jugs
> back on without further ado, since the cross-hatch pattern was still good
in
> the cyls from the major overhaul just 150 hrs before. To my great
> satisfaction, everything seemed to seat up just fine, as if the wear-parts
> were old friends, which they were. I now have to add one qt of AeroShell
> 15W-50 between changes, but I'm not upset, because now that I have added a
> spin-on filter, the changes are 50 hrs apart. So that's my oil
consumption
> story: 1 qt/50 hrs, and I'm stickin' to it.
>
> I think the secret is underfilling the crank case, so the first qt doesn't
> blow out of the vent right away. BTW, I do not return air/oil separator
oil
> to the crank case, althought I did formerly. I sump drain about 1 oz of
> built-up oil every oil change from a small reservoir designed for this
> purpose. My mechanic had thought the return of dirty oil and acids may
have
> hastened the destruction of the lifters the first time, but I believe the
> blame lies elsewhere; that's another long story. My latest oil analysis
> looked good.
>
> Everybody have a good week end!
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fuel vent pipe |
There may be a chance that, if the vent line did not have so high a loop,
that a solid slug of fuel may momentarily fill the entire line during
manoeuvring which may lead to siphoning of the entire tank's contents
without any visible signs from the cockpit save for the quantity gauge. I
know that suction is usually required to start a siphon, but not always, and
once it is underway, requires no suction to keep it going. Got pretty
experienced with siphoning as a poor teenager with a V-8 powered car( That
may explain some of my thought processes)....
Anyone know how to stop siphoning once it's started? Got to get the outlet
above the inlet. I wonder if a steep, climbing turn would do it?
Scott in VAncouver
why does the room keep spinning?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
>
> I think the problem with that is if you don't go higher than the tank, you
> could lose some fuel out of that line. The reason that Van has you run it
> up and then down again is to provide a steep uphill climb to only allow
air
> in the line and not let fuel out.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
>
>
>
> Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
> fuz?
> I was thinking of running the vent pipe along the back of the tank along
> the top flange then down at the outboard end and exit the bottom of the
> wing just aft of the fwd row of screws
> (just like the piper Cherokee system if anyone is familiar with it)
> also the plans suggest to mount the fuel pump on the side of the fuz at
> a 45 angle. why?
> could it be mounted on the floor beneath the fuel selector instead?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Parking Brake RV-8 |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
Thanks to all who posted their solutions to my brake question. I'v decided
to mount the parking brake valve on a plate where the lines normally
junctioned but going to fabricate a mounting plate bent back toward front of
the airplane. This will put the valve on an angle instead of pointing
straight down. Then using two 90 degree connectors on the input side, it
should keep the valve from sticking so far down below the brace it attaches
to. Then a 90 degree and a forty five degree on the output side. May try
to get the swival type so I can use two 90 degree on the output. I'm also
going to use the smaller flex lines that Heitman mentioned on his Web site
from Pegasus Racing. The smaller lines look better as I thought the ones
Vans sent were awful big. In addition, if it all works right, I'll be able
to reach the lever with my hand and won't need a cable. If I can't reach
it, then I'll maby attach an extension arm to it or rig a cable some how.
Have to get it installed and get my seats made and sit in it to see the
geometry. Will have digital pictures after I'm finished. At the rate I'm
going, maby next month some time. Thanks again
Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Some Questions... |
Bill,
Can't help you with the alternator, & I agree with Sam's advice about Bob
Nuckolls' book.
On my web site you can look at what I used for the wire gage, fuse size &
current consumption for most of the devices on your list.
Go to "Aircraft Systems", then "Main Fuse Bus" or Avionics Fuse Bus"
Regards,
Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 291 hrs
>
>Hi all... I have a few questions...
>
>First, take a look at this picture of my Prestolite 60A alternator. Can you
>tell me what all needs to be hooked up to where?
>http://vondane.tripod.com/alternator.jpg
>
>Second, can somebody give me an idea of what amp fuses I should use for each
>of these devices?
>- fuel gauges (both)
>- start button (energizes the start solenoid)
>- hobbs meter
>- aux power (cigarette lighter)
>- map light (just one eyeball light)
>- panel lights (two eyeball lights)
>- landing lights (55 watt halogen w/wig-wag)
>- nav lights (Whelen)
>- strobes (Whelen, single PS)
>- turn & bank
>- boost pump / primer
>- flaps
>
>Should I do the cowl before the filtered air box?
>
>How are you all running the wires to your fuel senders?
>
>I know there was something else but can't think of it right now... I will
>be posting some new pix to my web site in the morning...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A - N8VD - FWF
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight of N57ME |
Listers,
Today our RV-6A, N57ME made its first flight. Everything was
perfect!!!! No words can describe the awesome feeling of that first
lift off of an airplane that you built with your own hands in your
garage. What a blast! I have no numbers yet because the goal of this
flight was to check for reliable engine operation and to check for any
unusual flight characteristics. I rotated at 60 MPH and the plane
climbed rapidly at 120 MPH. I kept the speed down under 140 for this
first flight. The plane flew hands off so far but I haven't been up to
cruise speed yet so that may be premature.
I climbed up circling over the airport, keeping the 8500 ft runway
within easy glide distance. At 3,000 feet, I leveled off and practiced
some slow flight and flap operations before descending back to landing
(a greaser by the way).
All the temps and pressures stayed right in the middle of the green arcs
of the Van's gauges. The cowling was pulled at the end and no oil leaks
or problems seen.
All in all, an uneventful first flight (the best kind). I'll fly again
tomorrow and get some numbers to post.
To all those still building - it is definitely well worth it. Keep
pounding those rivets!!!
To all those on this list who helped me out along the way - thanks, you
are very much appreciated!!!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis I. Willig" <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 200HP RV-8 performance |
The builder of my RV-4, Pete Fountain, Jr., is planning on building an
RV-8. He is considering a 300 HP Mazda rotary as designed by Tracy
Crook. The reason he wants the high HP is that he thinks the RV-8 will
never give him the performance that the 190 HP, C/S RV-4 has. I get 210
MPH and 2500-3000 ft/min climb in Pete's RV-4. What experience do others
have with a 200 HP (or better) RV-8. Pete is a very savvy and realistic
builder ( and the best stick and rudder pilot I've ever flown with), so
he'll listen to other opinions.
Oh, by the way...Prior to buying Pete's RV-4 we took a little test
flight. Pete is a 29 year old (young) Ag pilot. I asked him "how low do
you fly when you dust"? He didn't answer. He just very smoothly and
simply brought the plane down to 2-3 feet AGL at 180 mph for the next 15
minutes. I was absolutely scared shitless. The "Pelouze" country of
Northern Idaho has no flat areas. It's a thousand square miles of
undulating, hemispherical hills, each about 100 ft high. Up and down, up
and down... Pete flew this plane so smoothly over these hills, never
going above 4-5 ft AGL at the bottoms and actually putting wheel marks
into the wheat fields at the top. Flying under wires and between trees.
All this as smoothly as a 747 at 39,000 ft. In the back seat, I was
holding onto the roll bar for dear life. When we finally landed, I asked
Pete to do it again.
Pete's Grandpop started the Ag business in the 40's, and stopped flying
about 10 years ago. Last year Pete's dad purchased a large ,1500 HP
radial engined Crop Dusting aircraft. A few mornings later Grandpop
walked over to it, walked around it for a few minutes, climbed into it
and flew it away. No POH, no license, no medical, no questions, no
"nothing". He returned about 15 minutes later. In order to land at
Pete's strip from the east you've got to go under the "electricity
wires" just prior to the threshold. Well, the wind was from the West and
Grandpop just flew this monster under the wires and landed this monster
on the 12 wide dirt path they call "the runway". He back-taxied to the
gas pump, got out, and never said a word to those who looked on.
On the morning that I took possession of Pete's RV-4, Grandpop and I
were just quietly talking about this and that. During that conversation,
Grandpop said that Pete was the best pilot he ever saw. I was sure he
meant his son, Pete Sr., who is the current owner/manage of the
operation, and who has been flying for 40 years. But, no, he said he was
talking about his grandson, Pete, Jr. Talk about admiration... wow.
So now, Pete's -4 has inverted fuel, 5 pt seatbelts, and an
accelerometer smack in the middle of the panel. So during one of our
test flights, I asked Pete if he wanted to show me a roll or loop or
something. Guess what?? Pete has never done a roll or a loop or
something. He said he's too afraid of aerobatics. Is he kidding? At the
end of each pass while spraying, he does a turnaround that resembles a
hammerhead starting 2 feet off the ground and ending 2 feet off the
ground. But he's afraid of aerobatics? Go figure....
Louis
Louis I. Willig
Penn Valley, PA 19072
(610) 668-4964
RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
N180PF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
You can try Digikey.com online Web page. I notice AMP makes them with
metal shell connectors Digit-key part numbers A16XX -ND looks like from 5
pins up through 28 pins. But sit down before you look at the prices. For a
5 pin Receptacle and Plug the combined cost is $60 and change. Then you
reall also need the Cable Clamps to prevent cable stress from pulling the
wire out of the pins add another $7.87 for that. Now if you need say a 14
pin set up believe it or not but the prices stays about the same.
The AMP Part number is 208XXX-1, starts at 2088719-1 5 pins to 208473-1 for
the 37 pin set up. I used the plastic AMP "Cannon" plugs and will suggest
that you not try to stick all of your wires in one plug (unless they are 9
or fewer), the reason is that the cable becomes fairly big and must be
carefully supported to keep from putting stress on the cables and pins.
Hopes this helps
Ed Anderson
matthews NC
Subject: Re: RV-List: canon plug?
>
> doyal plute wrote:
>
> >
> > I am doing the wiring on my RV6A and I am looking for a pin & socket
> > plug to go through the firewall. back in my Navy days as an AD we had
> > CANON PLUGS that went with the QEC. All the wiring went through two
> > canon plugs making engine changes very simple. What is available now
> > for home builders to use rather than having to bunch a bunch of wires
> > together and run them through the firewall to their various components?
> > I have found some plastic sets...but I need fire resistant.
> > Any help appreciated:
> > Doyal
>
> Our local electrical supply store has them, I have had to get them for
some
> of the machinery at work. They call them ampennal plugs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/14/01 3:55:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bhester(at)apex.net writes:
<< > I have found some plastic sets...but I need fire resistant.
> Any help appreciated:
> Doyal
Our local electrical supply store has them, I have had to get them for some
of the machinery at work. They call them ampennal plugs. >>
Come on you morons! Amphanol?, Ampennal? Why not Ampenile? ;
) (See the
smiley? I can say "morons" as long as I follow it with a smiley. Those are
the rules, and believe me, I mean it in the most loving way.
These connectors (MIL-C-5015 type) are actually made by Amphenol.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Somewhat RV related |
In a message dated 10/14/01 6:05:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca writes:
<<
> [Well, folks, the First Amendment isn't designed to
> stifle stupid remarks. Rush, as he himself says, is
> "right, 97% of the time." This is a great example of
> the other 3%, and unfortunately it's aimed at us
> --ed].
No, Rush is wrong about 100% of the time. Its just that
this time WE happened to be the 3% he decided to
offend. Believe me, the other 97% of the population is
thinking, "hey Rush is right again, those small airplanes ARE
dangerous".
This time around, we, as pilots, hear what he is saying and since we
understand airplanes and flying we know Rush is mis-stating the
facts and trying to build a one-sided argument instead of looking
at the issue from both sides.
Of course he has it all wrong. Remember that the next time Rush
decides to flame some OTHER special interest group. They
will probably exactly like we VFR pilots feel now.
Listen to Rush if you will, but please seek the truth elsewhere.
Getting off the soapbox now. >>
Rush is an entertainer, not an informer. I personally would give more
credence to what Charro has to say than to what Rush has to say. They are in
the same league, Charro just has some talent, a higher IQ and great legs.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N57ME |
Congratulations on a successful first flight. Hope the rest go as well.
Marty in Brentwood
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: First Flight of N57ME
>
> Listers,
> Today our RV-6A, N57ME made its first flight. Everything was
> perfect!!!! No words can describe the awesome feeling of that first
> lift off of an airplane that you built with your own hands in your
> garage. What a blast! I have no numbers yet because the goal of this
> flight was to check for reliable engine operation and to check for any
> unusual flight characteristics. I rotated at 60 MPH and the plane
> climbed rapidly at 120 MPH. I kept the speed down under 140 for this
> first flight. The plane flew hands off so far but I haven't been up to
> cruise speed yet so that may be premature.
> I climbed up circling over the airport, keeping the 8500 ft runway
> within easy glide distance. At 3,000 feet, I leveled off and practiced
> some slow flight and flap operations before descending back to landing
> (a greaser by the way).
> All the temps and pressures stayed right in the middle of the green arcs
> of the Van's gauges. The cowling was pulled at the end and no oil leaks
> or problems seen.
> All in all, an uneventful first flight (the best kind). I'll fly again
> tomorrow and get some numbers to post.
>
> To all those still building - it is definitely well worth it. Keep
> pounding those rivets!!!
> To all those on this list who helped me out along the way - thanks, you
> are very much appreciated!!!
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
> Randy: I jusst have one question: Theory or practice?? Have you ACTUALLY
> hand proped a Lasar system?? Un(??)fortunately I have a Lasar and have
the
> same concern of getting stuck out in the boonies.
Yes, done it, or to be correct my really brave buddy Randy Griffin did it
while I was in the cockpit. Second flip it started right up from cold.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Vince:
If I recall correctly, I just lightly machine countersunk the spar flange.
The skin dimples won't fit perfectly inside, but after riveting nobody but
you will know, and it won't affect the strength of the joint.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Waiting for A/W inspection
>From: "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8 LIST"
>Subject: RV8-List: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange
>Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 10:08:32 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vincent S. Himsl"
>
>Hello,
>
>I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
>bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
>
>I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
>spar flange.
>
>Problem:
>
>The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
>countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple. I
>countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
>
>If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
>
>Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those
>who
>have been here.
>
>Regards and Thanks
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 fuselage
>Moscow, ID USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for the
landing gear?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
does anyone still use this list? i used it a while back when i owned a rv3
now i have a rv4. does anyone have a mold made for the fairings on the
landing gear? i recently purchased a 4 and it needs them. or does anyone know
where you can purchase them?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Metal RV-6 Fuselage jig |
Listers,
Anybody out there in the New England/East coast area need an Metal RV-6
fuselage jig? I have a Pre-Fye version that needs another builder... If it
isn't needed soon, The scrap yard gets it....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1740 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 in RV9 continued |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 08:00:39 AM
actually what I said was that Superior has quoted some RV-9 builders on the
O360. Earl Brabant in Reno, NV will be taking delivery of his XP360 in
December. Feel free to call me @800-420-4727 xt. 2663 or by e-mail if you'd
like any information on the engine. Also there is an article coming out
addressing the installation of O360 engines in RV-9 aircraft in one of the
magazines in the months ahead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
Rick
That is where I mounted mine. Can reach it without a cable. May put a chain
on it.
Stan Mehrhoff
Mounting the wings at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 08:08:15 AM
If going with a salvage process is really what you want to do, I would
recommend the Cermi - Nil process. You can expect to pay in the $600-750
per cylinder price range or you may want to spend the extra money and get
new cylinders. Airmark Overhaul in FT. Lauderdale offers our Millinnium
Standard cast cylinders for $935. The cylinders would allow you to get 2
runs out of them without using a salvage process like chrome or either if
the Cermi processes. Additionally, I would look at whether the shop removes
the head from the barrel during the process, they were never meant to be
seperated, so anything short of a rebarrel also would not be recommended.
Not to sound to biased, but our cylinders are the best on the market for
the money, but there are others out there as well. Althought the Cermi-nil
process is the best for overhauling cylinders, they do remove the heads and
the ring sets are only available through ECI or their distributors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 08:25:58 AM
The ACK elt uses 8 D size duracells and one lithium battery in the remote
indicator switch for your panel. The D size batteries have a 3 year life
and the lithium gets replaced every 5 years. They are able to achieve this
through the date code on the batteries. The ACK can be mounted anywhere
horizontally or vertically and has an external and internal antenna. The
remote indicator switch mounts in the panel and allows the unit to be in
compliance with TSO C91a.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
Sure it will hand prop and start if battery voltage is present but the question
is, if the battery is DEAD will it start.
Gary
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> > Randy: I jusst have one question: Theory or practice?? Have you ACTUALLY
> > hand proped a Lasar system?? Un(??)fortunately I have a Lasar and have
> the
> > same concern of getting stuck out in the boonies.
>
> Yes, done it, or to be correct my really brave buddy Randy Griffin did it
> while I was in the cockpit. Second flip it started right up from cold.
>
> Randy
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 for sale |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 08:47:10 AM
here's how to break down the designation on your O360A1F6D. the O indicates
normally aspirated apposed cylinder configuration , the 360 is your cubic
inches, the A indicates Fixed pitch prop, the 1 indicates the nose section,
the F is the accessory configuration, the 6 is the counterweight
application and the D indicates the engine uses a Bendix 2000 or 3000
series dual magneto.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N57ME |
Eric,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (22 hours)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
************
>From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight of N57ME
>Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:16:45 -0500
>
>
>Listers,
>Today our RV-6A, N57ME made its first flight. Everything was
>perfect!!!! No words can describe the awesome feeling of that first
>lift off of an airplane that you built with your own hands in your
>garage. What a blast!
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
>www.ericsrv6a.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 S/N 80039 FLIES!!! |
Jim,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (22 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
*****************
>From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-LIST"
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 S/N 80039 FLIES!!!
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:38:11 -0400
>
>
>together for the first time after 5.5 years of building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200HP RV-8 performance |
Louis,
With our 200hp Io-360 and the C/S prop.
I have seen 2600 ft/min from sea level and a pretty std day.
This was with full tanks and a 200lbs pilot.
our RV-8A is recoket ship!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (22 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "Louis I. Willig" <larywil(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: 200HP RV-8 performance
>Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 23:36:06 -0400
>
>
>The builder of my RV-4, Pete Fountain, Jr., is planning on building an
>RV-8. He is considering a 300 HP Mazda rotary as designed by Tracy
>Crook. The reason he wants the high HP is that he thinks the RV-8 will
>never give him the performance that the 190 HP, C/S RV-4 has. I get 210
>MPH and 2500-3000 ft/min climb in Pete's RV-4. What experience do others
>have with a 200 HP (or better) RV-8. Pete is a very savvy and realistic
>builder ( and the best stick and rudder pilot I've ever flown with), so
>he'll listen to other opinions.
>
>Oh, by the way...Prior to buying Pete's RV-4 we took a little test
>flight. Pete is a 29 year old (young) Ag pilot. I asked him "how low do
>you fly when you dust"? He didn't answer. He just very smoothly and
>simply brought the plane down to 2-3 feet AGL at 180 mph for the next 15
>minutes. I was absolutely scared shitless. The "Pelouze" country of
>Northern Idaho has no flat areas. It's a thousand square miles of
>undulating, hemispherical hills, each about 100 ft high. Up and down, up
>and down... Pete flew this plane so smoothly over these hills, never
>going above 4-5 ft AGL at the bottoms and actually putting wheel marks
>into the wheat fields at the top. Flying under wires and between trees.
>All this as smoothly as a 747 at 39,000 ft. In the back seat, I was
>holding onto the roll bar for dear life. When we finally landed, I asked
>Pete to do it again.
>
>Pete's Grandpop started the Ag business in the 40's, and stopped flying
>about 10 years ago. Last year Pete's dad purchased a large ,1500 HP
>radial engined Crop Dusting aircraft. A few mornings later Grandpop
>walked over to it, walked around it for a few minutes, climbed into it
>and flew it away. No POH, no license, no medical, no questions, no
>"nothing". He returned about 15 minutes later. In order to land at
>Pete's strip from the east you've got to go under the "electricity
>wires" just prior to the threshold. Well, the wind was from the West and
>Grandpop just flew this monster under the wires and landed this monster
>on the 12 wide dirt path they call "the runway". He back-taxied to the
>gas pump, got out, and never said a word to those who looked on.
>On the morning that I took possession of Pete's RV-4, Grandpop and I
>were just quietly talking about this and that. During that conversation,
>Grandpop said that Pete was the best pilot he ever saw. I was sure he
>meant his son, Pete Sr., who is the current owner/manage of the
>operation, and who has been flying for 40 years. But, no, he said he was
>talking about his grandson, Pete, Jr. Talk about admiration... wow.
>
>So now, Pete's -4 has inverted fuel, 5 pt seatbelts, and an
>accelerometer smack in the middle of the panel. So during one of our
>test flights, I asked Pete if he wanted to show me a roll or loop or
>something. Guess what?? Pete has never done a roll or a loop or
>something. He said he's too afraid of aerobatics. Is he kidding? At the
>end of each pass while spraying, he does a turnaround that resembles a
>hammerhead starting 2 feet off the ground and ending 2 feet off the
>ground. But he's afraid of aerobatics? Go figure....
>
>Louis
>
>Louis I. Willig
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>(610) 668-4964
>RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
>N180PF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: fairings |
I posted the same question a year ago...but no answers....however I did contact
rocket engineering, and they sent me fairings for a RV6.....where you use your
wheel pants..I have "8a"...and they said they would fit...they thought....so I
ordered them......they are nicely made, and will fit the "pants" well...(now if
the pants fitter...well that is a different story)...don't know how the upper
cuffs will fit yet, because you have to fit the wings...short of sawing the
shop down to get the airplane out, after fitting the wings, I have to wait for
that little "pleasure....to find out if they fit".....and so far it usually
takes 3-6 times fitting so what else is new.....you might try them...it's
called team rocket, and the guy I spoke to is called Mark.....I think...good
luck....jolly in aurora..
thinking of selling RV8A..
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for the
> landing gear?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: fairings |
Van's Aircraft sells fiberglass fairings for the RV-4 landing gear. Good
luck, Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV4-List: fairings
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for
the
> landing gear?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Tank fit problem |
Good morning all,
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar and
leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
tank. Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
let's say 25% and try again. Also sent question to Van's.
Thanks for the help!
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
With the restrictions that the EPA has put on the chroming guys, the chrome
processes are having a real hard time holding up. Personally, I would
recommend just getting Nitrided cylinders and planning on flying a lot.
Nitrided cylinders don't like sitting around a lot, but when put on an
engine in an RV they don't seem to sit around much at all.
Just my opinion from what I have seen in the commercial industry.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Coatings
>Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:50:58 -0400
>
>
>Listners,
> I am going to rebuild a runout engine and need some advice in
>regard to the different types of coatings available for the cylinder
>walls. The way I understand it, there are three different ways to go:
>chrome plating the cylinder walls, Cermi Chrome plating and Nu Chrome
>plating. I have heard that the Cermi Chrome process does not hold up
>well and can lead to big problems. Regular chrome plating holds up well
>but it is hard to get the rings to seat. I know nothing of Nu Chrome.
>
> If anyone has knowledge, experience or advice, I would like to hear
>from you.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs and RV7 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N57ME |
Congratulations Eric!! Well done!! I've watched your progress through your
web site and to learn that you have flown is great news.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
Eric Newton wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Today our RV-6A, N57ME made its first flight. Everything was
> perfect!!!! No words can describe the awesome feeling of that first
> lift off of an airplane that you built with your own hands in your
> garage. What a blast! I have no numbers yet because the goal of this
> flight was to check for reliable engine operation and to check for any
> unusual flight characteristics. I rotated at 60 MPH and the plane
> climbed rapidly at 120 MPH. I kept the speed down under 140 for this
> first flight. The plane flew hands off so far but I haven't been up to
> cruise speed yet so that may be premature.
> I climbed up circling over the airport, keeping the 8500 ft runway
> within easy glide distance. At 3,000 feet, I leveled off and practiced
> some slow flight and flap operations before descending back to landing
> (a greaser by the way).
> All the temps and pressures stayed right in the middle of the green arcs
> of the Van's gauges. The cowling was pulled at the end and no oil leaks
> or problems seen.
> All in all, an uneventful first flight (the best kind). I'll fly again
> tomorrow and get some numbers to post.
>
> To all those still building - it is definitely well worth it. Keep
> pounding those rivets!!!
> To all those on this list who helped me out along the way - thanks, you
> are very much appreciated!!!
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Norman" <tnorman(at)ktc.com> |
| Subject: | New builder question |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: New builder question
>
>As a first time builder I ordered my RV-9A emp kit from Van's and a
>bunch of tools from Avery. After finishing the HS and the VS all is
>well. While working on the rudder 'the problem' arose.
>
You might consider drilling out the rivets and re-dimpling with the new die.
It will probably reduce the dimple to the correct size. You could try it on
a piece of scrap first.
Tom Norman
RV-6A Slider, Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale |
This is the real reason that I was asking...my intent was to have one mag
and one electronic...if there were two active holes/gearsets I could still
do that - sounds like not.
Thanks for the responses,
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: Cole, Ed <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 0-360 for sale
> Ralph,
> The D stands for dual mags which is two mags in one housing. They are also
> known as Siamese Mags. The Mooney IO360A1B6D 200hp also has this
> arrangement. You only get 1 mag hole so if your thinking electronic
> ignition,
> this is not the way to go.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648Rv Finishing
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ralph E. Capen [SMTP:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:17 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: 0-360 for sale
> >
> >
> > I tried to contact them via email directly - so far no response. I'll
try
> > phone next week...
> >
> > Anyone know what the "D" stands for?
> >
> > Ralph Capen
> >
> > < >
> > > I have a used Lycoming O360A1F6D, 180 HP engine available if someone
> > > wants to buy it for an experimental aircraft. It has about 1,900
hours
> > > on it, is still flying just fine in my Cardinal and was just through
its
> > > annual in September. I am replacing it with a Lycoming factory
overhaul
> > > when it arrives about a month from now. If no one is interested in
it,
> > > I will send my engine to Lycoming as a core. I would sell this engine
> > > as is for $9,500 complete with dual magneto, starter, plugs and wires,
> > > plus carb heat airbox and electric HotPadd sump heater. If you are
> > > interested, please call Chuck Cornell at 319-268-2969 or e-mail me at
> > > cornell.chuck(at)cfu.net.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: fairings |
I just received new leg and intersection fairings form Mark for my -8A.
Although Mark said he sold 3 sets to -8A builders none have called and said
how they fitted, so ?? Looks easy enough, but like you say on & off a
hundred times till they fit, no big deal.
Doug Gardner
-----Original Message-----
From: old ogre [mailto:jollyd(at)ipns.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: fairings
I posted the same question a year ago...but no answers....however I did
contact
rocket engineering, and they sent me fairings for a RV6.....where you use
your
wheel pants..I have "8a"...and they said they would fit...they
thought....so I
ordered them......they are nicely made, and will fit the "pants" well...(now
if
the pants fitter...well that is a different story)...don't know how the
upper
cuffs will fit yet, because you have to fit the wings...short of sawing the
shop down to get the airplane out, after fitting the wings, I have to wait
for
that little "pleasure....to find out if they fit".....and so far it usually
takes 3-6 times fitting so what else is new.....you might try them...it's
called team rocket, and the guy I spoke to is called Mark.....I think...good
luck....jolly in aurora..
thinking of selling RV8A..
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for
the
> landing gear?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank fit problem |
Hello Jack,
I hope this is usefull to you.
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the
spar and
> leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
> countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
> tank.
First, examine the distance between the hole centers on the spar. Some folks
have had the counter sink tool wander off center.
during the countersinking process.
Next, with the tank off the wing, lay a straight edge across the top of the
dimples. If you have not applied enough pressure with the dimpling system of
your choice, the edges of the dimples will not be flush with the straight
edge. The area between the dimpled holes will be curved upward instead of
flat. If the above condition exists the tank trailing edge will not lay down
flat on the spar.
Re-dimple the holes with more force, or with a stronger dimpler, until the
tank skins lay flat when mounted and screwed down.
>Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
> let's say 25% and try again.
It is unlikely that making the dimples in the tank shallower will help. Most
often taking material away reduces component strength.
Make a test piece to check the fit and depth of the counter sunk holes in
the spar.
Cut a piece of scrap that is the same thickness as the tank skin, about 1" x
3" will do. Drill and dimple with enough force to get the above described
flatness. use this piece to see if the dimple fits the spar to your
satisfaction.
Closer examination might show that:
-The machine dimpled holes wandered during the process.
-The machine dimpled holes need to be cut a bit deeper.
-The dimples in the tank skins require more force applied to them. ( most
likely cause )
Bye for now,
Jim in Kelowna, - Canopy in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tank fit problem
>
> Good morning all,
> Also sent question to Van's.
> Thanks for the help!
> Jack
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
> www.IaJobs.com
> jack(at)IaJobs.com
>
> Jack Textor
> PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
> 604 Locust, Suite 516
> Des Moines, IA 50309
> 515-243-7687 phone
> 515-243-3350 fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale |
HI Ralph,
The configuration described still has two seperate holes for Mags.
The various electronic ignition setups will work on these engines.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale
>
> This is the real reason that I was asking...my intent was to have one mag
> and one electronic...if there were two active holes/gearsets I could still
> do that - sounds like not.
>
> Thanks for the responses,
> Ralph Capen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cole, Ed <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 0-360 for sale
>
>
> > Ralph,
> > The D stands for dual mags which is two mags in one housing. They are
also
> > known as Siamese Mags. The Mooney IO360A1B6D 200hp also has this
> > arrangement. You only get 1 mag hole so if your thinking electronic
> > ignition,
> > this is not the way to go.
> >
> > Ed Cole
> > RV6A N2169D Flying
> > RV6A N648Rv Finishing
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Ralph E. Capen [SMTP:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
> > > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:17 AM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: 0-360 for sale
> > >
> > >
> > > I tried to contact them via email directly - so far no response. I'll
> try
> > > phone next week...
> > >
> > > Anyone know what the "D" stands for?
> > >
> > > Ralph Capen
> > >
> > > < > >
> > > > I have a used Lycoming O360A1F6D, 180 HP engine available if someone
> > > > wants to buy it for an experimental aircraft. It has about 1,900
> hours
> > > > on it, is still flying just fine in my Cardinal and was just through
> its
> > > > annual in September. I am replacing it with a Lycoming factory
> overhaul
> > > > when it arrives about a month from now. If no one is interested in
> it,
> > > > I will send my engine to Lycoming as a core. I would sell this
engine
> > > > as is for $9,500 complete with dual magneto, starter, plugs and
wires,
> > > > plus carb heat airbox and electric HotPadd sump heater. If you are
> > > > interested, please call Chuck Cornell at 319-268-2969 or e-mail me
at
> > > > cornell.chuck(at)cfu.net.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Maxim Home Page:
> > http://www.maxim-ic.com
> > Products Page:
> > http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> > New Products:
> > http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> > Datasheets:
> > http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> > The information contained in this message is confidential
> > and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> > solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> > recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> > or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> > If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> > by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 02:03:39 PM
What you'd need to do is change the accessory housing on the engine to
adapt the light speed electronic ignition to the engine with the left mag
backup. Not a cheap venture, but less expensive than replacing the entire
powerplant.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"Jim Sears"
| Subject: | Electric elevator trim |
I am in the process of fitting and mounting my electric trim servo in the left
elevator. Two Questions. There are no dimensions on the drawings, so I presume
I am to center the servo on the cover plate and line up with
the slot in the cover? Also, the mounting brackets for the servo seem too long.
The Plans say nothing, but I assume I should just trim these to fit? Trivial
questions but I just want to be sure. Thanks.Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Coatings |
I'm not that well educated about oil viscosities, but years ago when the
flying club back in Holland switched from W(or D)80 to Aeroshell Multigrade
15W50 the usage of oil dropped by about 75%.
That made a hell of a difference on a fleet of 14 spamcans.
Most Engines reached their TBO, just the usual nonsense of cracked cylinders
or burned valves that prevented them from reaching their TBO. Nothing
related to oil problems.
Average flighttime on aircraft per flight was around 55 to 65 minutes with a
total production of around 7500 hrs per year.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
N.Ireland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mooney single drive, dual mags |
Another option is to use the LightSpeed crank sensor and cover up the empty
mag hole (cover provided with the LightSpeed kit). The crank sensor has
separate pickups, each driving a separate LightSpeed ignition. We installed
this on an RV-8 with the same Mooney engine, works as advertised. The dual
LightSpeed ignitions is a much cheaper install as well as life cycle cost
than trying to do single EI and converting the accessory case to accept a
single mag unit.
You could just keep the single drive/dual mag set up as is and only use one
of the mags with the single EI and crank sensor. If you already have a good
dual mag unit in hand you save on the initial cost but you still end up with
a higher life cycle cost (500 hours average mag life expectancy, half of
the plugs are still $16 each instead of $1 each, etc.). If you don't have a
good mag set in hand, I suspect this will cost more than the second Light
Speed unit.
FWIW,
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (getting close to flying)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale
>
>
> What you'd need to do is change the accessory housing on the engine to
> adapt the light speed electronic ignition to the engine with the left mag
> backup. Not a cheap venture, but less expensive than replacing the entire
> powerplant.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
> Marcel,
> Check with John Harmon.
> The Rocket is a RV-4 wing with bigger tanks.
> Why reinvent the wheel.
> Tom
Tom,
I just want to have a bit more range with an "original" RV4. It is a
relative easy mod, I don't think the weight gain will be much more than
10lbs max.
I don't fancy a Rocket, besides I don't think that Van approves of the
Rocket design. My Mod is basically an enlargement of the wet area of the
wing, which causes less stress than the optional tiptanks, because the arm
is shorter at the same weight. It is also a better option for the balance.
As goes for the rocket, the bigger engine nips the enlargement of the tank
fairly in the butt.................who reinvents the wheel here is just a
matter of opinion I guess.......
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: fairings |
In a message dated 10/15/01 2:40:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DFCPAC(at)aol.com
writes:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for the
> landing gear?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
>
Make your mold.....it is way too easy, e-mail me off line I will give the
measurements
Tim Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual Mags - was: 0-360 for sale |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/15/2001 04:00:46 PM
Ralph,
Actually the information Jim passed on regarding your dual mag set up is
incorrect. On the A1F6D , the accessory housing has only one mag adapter on
the left side the right side houses the vernatherm and spin on oil filter
so there really isn't any place to put a mag and electronic ignition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sices" <michaelsices(at)hotmail.com> |
I know its been done before, but here is another RV8 webpage to add to the
mix. Enjoy:
http://members.core.com/~msices
Michael Sices
RV8 QB, Kenosha WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Just this past issue (or the one before) of I think it was Custom Planes had
a history of US insignia on aircraft and how to dimension it properly. I'll
look tonight unless someone else comes up with it first.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com]
Subject: RV-List: Stars and Bars
Guys,
I'm planning to use the paint scheme from the new T-6A (joint USAF / Navy
trainer) on my RV-8A. Is there some sort of military spec available for
the exact layout of the US "stars and bars" ensignia? Also, is there
some sort of mil spec calling out the colors of blue and red used for it?
I could just try to match the colors and layout as closely as possible,
but if there's a readily available spec for this stuff I'd like to know
where I could get my hands on it.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Tom,
>
>I just want to have a bit more range with an "original" RV4. It is a
>relative easy mod, I don't think the weight gain will be much more than
>10lbs max.
>I don't fancy a Rocket, besides I don't think that Van approves of the
>Rocket design. My Mod is basically an enlargement of the wet area of the
>wing, which causes less stress than the optional tiptanks, because the arm
>is shorter at the same weight.
I don't have any particular opinion about this mod other than I'm not so
sure things are so simple about the "less stress." I'm no engineer but
more fuel further out on the wing instead of more fuel near the root
would seem to be better from the standpoint of bending load on the spar.
Would seem to be worse from the standpoint of RV maneuvering feel,
however.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Winters" <winters.d(at)home.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage |
Has anyone here seriously contemplated putting -6 wings on a -7 fuse? I'm
not really looking for horsepower/performance benefits, but I do consider
the ease of assembly and additional legroom to be worthwhile enough to
warrant fabricating a special bulkhead to accept the -6 wings. The two
models appear to have the same cabin spacing.
Don Winters
(wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N57ME |
Congrats, the fun is just beginning.
Garry "Casper"
Dianne and I flew down to San Diego from San Jose area on Saturday morning
2.2 hrs, flew back this morn 2.1 hrs, ya gotta love it.
Eric Newton wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Today our RV-6A, N57ME made its first flight. Everything was
> perfect!!!! No words can describe the awesome feeling of that first
> lift off of an airplane that you built with your own hands in your
> garage. What a blast! I have no numbers yet because the goal of this
> flight was to check for reliable engine operation and to check for any
> unusual flight characteristics. I rotated at 60 MPH and the plane
> climbed rapidly at 120 MPH. I kept the speed down under 140 for this
> first flight. The plane flew hands off so far but I haven't been up to
> cruise speed yet so that may be premature.
> I climbed up circling over the airport, keeping the 8500 ft runway
> within easy glide distance. At 3,000 feet, I leveled off and practiced
> some slow flight and flap operations before descending back to landing
> (a greaser by the way).
> All the temps and pressures stayed right in the middle of the green arcs
> of the Van's gauges. The cowling was pulled at the end and no oil leaks
> or problems seen.
> All in all, an uneventful first flight (the best kind). I'll fly again
> tomorrow and get some numbers to post.
>
> To all those still building - it is definitely well worth it. Keep
> pounding those rivets!!!
> To all those on this list who helped me out along the way - thanks, you
> are very much appreciated!!!
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage |
I don't get how the -6 wings would be easier to build than the -7 wings...
The -7 wings are all pre-punched and the spar is pre-built...
The -6 and -7 center sections are totally different, I doubt if you could
interchange the wings without a MAJOR redesign of the fuse...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of D. Winters
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
Has anyone here seriously contemplated putting -6 wings on a -7 fuse? I'm
not really looking for horsepower/performance benefits, but I do consider
the ease of assembly and additional legroom to be worthwhile enough to
warrant fabricating a special bulkhead to accept the -6 wings. The two
models appear to have the same cabin spacing.
Don Winters
(wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Actually, more fuel further out places a higher bending moment on the spar.
Bending moment is the product of [mass] and [distance from spar]. If you move
the fuel from the wingtip [large distance from spar] to a leading edge tank
[small distance from spar], you'll lower the bending moment at the root of the
wing. It'll still be higher than with just a standard wing tank, though, so
you may want to think about placing a restriction on how much fuel you carry
when doing things like aerobatics.
As a side effect, you'll lower the moment of inertia about the longitudinal
axis of the aircraft. In other words, by keeping the mass nearer to the center
of the airplane it will roll faster, and thereby retain as much of the
"RV-feel" as is possible.
-RB4
Larry Pardue wrote:
> I don't have any particular opinion about this mod other than I'm not so
> sure things are so simple about the "less stress." I'm no engineer but
> more fuel further out on the wing instead of more fuel near the root
> would seem to be better from the standpoint of bending load on the spar.
> Would seem to be worse from the standpoint of RV maneuvering feel,
> however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Tank fit problem |
First of all, make sure you used a #8 dimple die for a "screw" and not a
"rivet". Dimple dies come in both flavors and the one for the rivet is
slightly bigger (ie makes a bigger dimple then the one for the screw) then
the one for the screw.
If you're sure you got the right dimple die, test the depth of your spar
countersinks with a test dimple on a small piece of .025. You'll probably
find that you'll have to countersink a little more.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Textor [mailto:jack(at)IaJobs.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Tank fit problem
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
Good morning all,
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar and
leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
tank. Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
let's say 25% and try again. Also sent question to Van's.
Thanks for the help!
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Clearman" <dclearman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop harmonic balancer |
I believe that you are referring to a harmonic dampner, not exactly a
harmonic balancer. Landell makes one. I've used it on a lycoming engine
and have to admit that it smooths the engine vibration noticably. I don't
recall the exact weight, but I would estimate that it puts about 10 pounds
or so very far forward. That helps if you have a rearward CG, but can be a
factor in the even that the CG is a bit forward. Dan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear fairing failure |
At 289 hrs the nose gear fairing on my -6A is comming apart. The
rivets that hold the piano hinge to the fairing are pulling thru the
fiberglass.
I suspect I need to do a better job glassing the piano hinge to the
fiberglass -- with cloth between the piano hinge and the fairing, as well
as glass covering the hinge after the rivets are squeezed. Any other
suggestions?
Tim
********************************
The DCA Infinite TCA...
"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
********************************
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
I just spotted an ad in trade a plane online, RV4 with 50 gallon tanks.
Does anybody know this RV4? It's listed as a CA location.
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Winters" <winters.d(at)home.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage |
Oh.. I didn't mention that I already have the -6 wings. I want to adapt
them to the -7 fuselage.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
I don't get how the -6 wings would be easier to build than the -7 wings...
The -7 wings are all pre-punched and the spar is pre-built...
The -6 and -7 center sections are totally different, I doubt if you could
interchange the wings without a MAJOR redesign of the fuse...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of D. Winters
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
Has anyone here seriously contemplated putting -6 wings on a -7 fuse? I'm
not really looking for horsepower/performance benefits, but I do consider
the ease of assembly and additional legroom to be worthwhile enough to
warrant fabricating a special bulkhead to accept the -6 wings. The two
models appear to have the same cabin spacing.
Don Winters
(wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank fit problem |
Hi Jack
I did not see it mentioned that you have installed all your platenuts and
have actually screwed the tanks down. Could this be a factor?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse and holding (STILL building a house....bummer!)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tank fit problem
>
> Good morning all,
> After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar
and
> leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
> countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
> tank. Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
> let's say 25% and try again. Also sent question to Van's.
> Thanks for the help!
> Jack
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
> www.IaJobs.com
> jack(at)IaJobs.com
>
> Jack Textor
> PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
> 604 Locust, Suite 516
> Des Moines, IA 50309
> 515-243-7687 phone
> 515-243-3350 fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset |
Fellow Listers:
I have a question for those using the RMI micromonitor regarding
preference between the provided audio transducer or running the audio
alarm through one's headset.
One of the main reasons I decided to go with the RMI is the audio alarm.
Do those of you that use the audio transducer have any trouble hearing
it if it goes off with your headset on?
Those of you that have the audio running through your headsets, is this
major production to get to work if you use an audio panel? Thanks in
advance for the input.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse on hold (STILL building a house.....bummer!)
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
"AeroElectric List" ,
"RV List"
| Subject: | Dynon Screen Brightness |
I am very interested in the Dynon EFIS but concerned that the screen might
not be bright enough for a bubble canopy aircraft. Dynon is currently flight
testing with a Cessna and a Beaver. Both have closed cabins with roofs. I
asked the factory how many "nits" the screen has and here is their answer:
>There are 450 "nits" in the screen, with good contrast. Not only is
>it good to be bright, but the contrast is something that makes
>the screen very visible.
>We will be sending out a memo this week to update everyone
> on our development. Thank you for your interest.
I had been asking several Lists about brightness a few weeks ago and one
gentleman posted this very informed sounding letter:
>I can tell you from experience that anything less than 400 nits in a
>transmissive AMLCD will NOT be sunlight readable, and even that is very
marginal
>in shaft sunlight. We tested about a dozen 10.4" displays and only two were
>acceptable.
>This was for a portable test product, so we were power conscious. There
are
>10.4" displays out there with 1000 nit backlights, but they are power hogs
>(would not be an issue for this app.). Our method of testing was to roll
them
>out into our parking lot (Florida) and fire them up. Most failed
miserably.
>Many salesmen were just as disappointed, I guess they never checked.
>A newer technology is promising. It's the transflective AMLCD and is a
>combination of a reflective and transmissive AMLCD. In bright light, the
>incident light is reflected off the back of the display and helps improve
>contrast. In dark conditions, the backlight provides the contrast in
typical
>AMLCD fashion. Sharp demo'd a prototype for us and it worked quite well.
>Smaller versions are available right now, but we needed a 10.4". The
notebook
>and PDA guys are really pushing these because of the power savings.
So it kind of sounds like the Dynon EFIS will do the job. Now, when can I
get one?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage |
Don, your best bet might be to try and sell the RV-6 wings and just start
with a RV-7 Kit. Trying to retrofit the RV-6 wings to the RV-7 fuselage
will not be an easy job. Whatever time you think you may save by using your
already build wings will likely be eaten up by the challenges of desiging a
mating of the -6 wings to the -7 fuselage. FWIW
Ed Anderson
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
>
> Oh.. I didn't mention that I already have the -6 wings. I want to adapt
> them to the -7 fuselage.
>
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
>
>
> I don't get how the -6 wings would be easier to build than the -7 wings...
> The -7 wings are all pre-punched and the spar is pre-built...
>
> The -6 and -7 center sections are totally different, I doubt if you could
> interchange the wings without a MAJOR redesign of the fuse...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of D. Winters
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: RV6 Wings on an RV7 Fuselage
>
>
> Has anyone here seriously contemplated putting -6 wings on a -7 fuse? I'm
> not really looking for horsepower/performance benefits, but I do consider
> the ease of assembly and additional legroom to be worthwhile enough to
> warrant fabricating a special bulkhead to accept the -6 wings. The two
> models appear to have the same cabin spacing.
>
>
> Don Winters
> (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear fairing failure |
I saw a nifty solution on the bottom of the cowl. Drill a hole between the
rivets and put a #6 or #8 countersunk screw with a nylock nut on the other
side. This will take the load off of the rivets. 2 or 3 down each side
should do it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A nose gear fairing failure
At 289 hrs the nose gear fairing on my -6A is comming apart. The
rivets that hold the piano hinge to the fairing are pulling thru the
fiberglass.
I suspect I need to do a better job glassing the piano hinge to the
fiberglass -- with cloth between the piano hinge and the fairing, as well
as glass covering the hinge after the rivets are squeezed. Any other
suggestions?
Tim
********************************
The DCA Infinite TCA...
"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
********************************
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset |
Jeff, I have done both. I had the transducer installed and the headset wire
installed. Once I decided which one I liked, I would simply cut a wire.
You can hear it through normal headsets. (I have a pair of Pilot headsets
for now) Hearing it in the headsets is fine too, because you can adjust the
volume. Don't run it through your audio panel. Run it right to the headset
jack and get the volume set where you like it and leave it. Another bonus
is let's say you don't have your alarm limits just right and an alarm starts
going off. If you only run it to the pilot headset, your passenger never
knew anything was "wrong" If you have the transducer, and they hear a loud
beeping noise, they may become uncomfortable. Can't you hear it? "Oh no!
What's that?"
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: RV-List: RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset
Fellow Listers:
I have a question for those using the RMI micromonitor regarding
preference between the provided audio transducer or running the audio
alarm through one's headset.
One of the main reasons I decided to go with the RMI is the audio alarm.
Do those of you that use the audio transducer have any trouble hearing
it if it goes off with your headset on?
Those of you that have the audio running through your headsets, is this
major production to get to work if you use an audio panel? Thanks in
advance for the input.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse on hold (STILL building a house.....bummer!)
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
problem.
When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear up
when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up, just
finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing so
have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and were
just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags or
running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so I
dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
1200 fpm.
Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
looking before a next flight would be welcome.
Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
here is a photo of my installation of the Matco parking brake valve on my RV8.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset |
> One of the main reasons I decided to go with the RMI is the audio alarm.
> Do those of you that use the audio transducer have any trouble hearing
> it if it goes off with your headset on?
I can hear the alarm through my headsets even during high power ops
(cylinder head alarm set low currently), but I do wish it were louder. I am
feeding it directly into a Garmin 340 audio panel. There might be some sort
of gain/volume control, but I haven't bothered to find it yet.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Screen Brightness |
Just to compare, I pulled this off of the Blue Mountain Avionics site:
Q: How does the EFIS display compare to my laptop's?
The Nit is a unit of illumination, with a laptop coming in at around 70
Nits. EFIS uses a display designed for avionic systems that drives between
1000 and 1200 Nits of illumination. This brightness, combined with the
anti-reflective coating, is what makes the display sunlight-readable.
PS - Check out this EFIS group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GA-EFIS
Low traffic so far, but a potential resource.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 10:00 PM
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com; AeroElectric List; RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Screen Brightness
>
>
> I am very interested in the Dynon EFIS but concerned that the screen might
> not be bright enough for a bubble canopy aircraft. Dynon is
> currently flight
> testing with a Cessna and a Beaver. Both have closed cabins with roofs. I
> asked the factory how many "nits" the screen has and here is their answer:
>
> >There are 450 "nits" in the screen, with good contrast. Not only is
> >it good to be bright, but the contrast is something that makes
> >the screen very visible.
>
> >We will be sending out a memo this week to update everyone
> > on our development. Thank you for your interest.
>
> I had been asking several Lists about brightness a few weeks ago and one
> gentleman posted this very informed sounding letter:
>
> >I can tell you from experience that anything less than 400 nits in a
> >transmissive AMLCD will NOT be sunlight readable, and even that is very
> marginal
> >in shaft sunlight. We tested about a dozen 10.4" displays and
> only two were
> >acceptable.
> >This was for a portable test product, so we were power conscious. There
> are
> >10.4" displays out there with 1000 nit backlights, but they are
> power hogs
> >(would not be an issue for this app.). Our method of testing was to roll
> them
> >out into our parking lot (Florida) and fire them up. Most failed
> miserably.
> >Many salesmen were just as disappointed, I guess they never checked.
> >A newer technology is promising. It's the transflective AMLCD and is a
> >combination of a reflective and transmissive AMLCD. In bright light, the
> >incident light is reflected off the back of the display and helps improve
> >contrast. In dark conditions, the backlight provides the contrast in
> typical
> >AMLCD fashion. Sharp demo'd a prototype for us and it worked quite well.
> >Smaller versions are available right now, but we needed a 10.4". The
> notebook
> >and PDA guys are really pushing these because of the power savings.
>
> So it kind of sounds like the Dynon EFIS will do the job. Now, when can I
> get one?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset |
I fed the micromonitor and microencoder outputs to the music inputs of my
intercom. A 25 cent mixer consisted of a 10K resistor on each audio output
(left cd player output, right cd player output, encoder and monitor) It
works great. Music and alarms both test good in the first 20 hours of
flight. The encoder alarm goes to left, the monitor alarm goes to right,
just to keep it simple. They are different sounds too. The intercom is a Dre
244e.
Dave Biddle
RV6a
Phoenix, AZ
flying tomorrow, first time since sept 10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Orear
Subject: RV-List: RMI micromonitor audio transducer vs headset
Fellow Listers:
I have a question for those using the RMI micromonitor regarding
preference between the provided audio transducer or running the audio
alarm through one's headset.
One of the main reasons I decided to go with the RMI is the audio alarm.
Do those of you that use the audio transducer have any trouble hearing
it if it goes off with your headset on?
Those of you that have the audio running through your headsets, is this
major production to get to work if you use an audio panel? Thanks in
advance for the input.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse on hold (STILL building a house.....bummer!)
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake RV-8 |
> I'm also
> going to use the smaller flex lines that Heitman mentioned on his Web site
> from Pegasus Racing. The smaller lines look better as I thought the ones
> Vans sent were awful big.
Sounds like a great idea, why didn't I think of that. For the "if I were
doing it again file". I'd order my finishing kit without the brake lines to
say the money and use those smaller nicer looking ones. Saw them on some
ones website.
> In addition, if it all works right, I'll be able
> to reach the lever with my hand and won't need a cable.
I've heard the little bugger likes to creep around. Vibrations and all. You
won't know if you have brakes or not unless you can see the handle position.
Could get weird after turbulence or even after a hard landing.
I elected to use a lightweight cable that has a button lock. They are around
$40 from ACS. Available in red or black. Very nice looking with a positive
lock button. I'm using them for parking brake, fuel purge, cabin heat, and
alternate air. I want everything to match. Called A-700 part number in black
05-13172 at a six foot length. Longer available. To grip the wire end I am
going to use (not there yet) Wire Grip 05-16000 at $8.50 each. That converts
me to a 10-32 thread where I will put AN665-21R Terminals P/N 05-02500 at
$12.80 each. I am engineering for minimum maintenance. The cable through the
hole in the bolt is not for me.
Again I'll mention that I'm not a professional aircraft person, just a
regular guy blundering along trying to build the best airplane I can.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for
the
> landing gear?
Well, if you are looking for survey results I have been paying attention to
what this list has been commenting about fairings for the last couple of
years.
Best wheel pants - Sam James
Best intersection fairings and leg fairings - Team Rocket
This is they way I'm going. I've already got the wheel pants and they don't
look like they need much finishing.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop harmonic balancer |
In a message dated 10/15/01 5:06:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dclearman(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I believe that you are referring to a harmonic dampner, not exactly a
harmonic balancer. Landell makes one. >>
For the archives, it is a harmonic damper provided by Mark Landoll. Contact
info is in the Yeller Pages. A lot of the damping effect is from the added
mass.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Arrgh.
Serves me right for trying to bang out an email when I should have been running
to
catch my bus to get home from the office... Anyway, my brain was stuck in static
mode when I wrote this (ie. thinking of things sitting still, not moving, on the
ground). Of course, in straight and level *flight*, the load distributed across
the span will decrease the bending moment at the wing root.
I also wrote [distance from spar] when I should have said [distance from
fuselage], but nobody caught me on that... 8-)
The bit about the lower rolling moment of inertia is still correct, though. Just
ask anyone who's flown a Navion or a T-33 with and without tip tanks...
-RB4
Rob Prior wrote:
>
> Actually, more fuel further out places a higher bending moment on the spar.
>
> Bending moment is the product of [mass] and [distance from spar]. If you move
> the fuel from the wingtip [large distance from spar] to a leading edge tank
> [small distance from spar], you'll lower the bending moment at the root of the
> wing. It'll still be higher than with just a standard wing tank, though, so
> you may want to think about placing a restriction on how much fuel you carry
> when doing things like aerobatics.
>
> As a side effect, you'll lower the moment of inertia about the longitudinal
> axis of the aircraft. In other words, by keeping the mass nearer to the center
> of the airplane it will roll faster, and thereby retain as much of the
> "RV-feel" as is possible.
>
> -RB4
>
> Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> > I don't have any particular opinion about this mod other than I'm not so
> > sure things are so simple about the "less stress." I'm no engineer but
> > more fuel further out on the wing instead of more fuel near the root
> > would seem to be better from the standpoint of bending load on the spar.
> > Would seem to be worse from the standpoint of RV maneuvering feel,
> > however.
>
>
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Tank fit problem |
Hello,
Did you edge roll the skin? Other than that, the countersink in the spar
requires a special countersink bit. It is from Avery but it is especially
for the tank/spar interface. You need it as at this point the tank attach
platenuts should already be installed. This particular C.S. bit has a #30
guide to fit through the platenuts yet still be able to make a #8? C.S
Between the tank and the leading edge you should have a plate (forgot exact
terminology) that joins the leading edge with the tank. I dimpled and then
slightly countersunk to get a nice finish.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
-----Original Message-----
Good morning all,
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar and
leading edge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | riveting the trim tab spar |
Question...how the heck do you rivet the bottom of the elevator trim tab
spar?! I'm thinking the longeron yoke is my only shot, but that sure seems
funky, and I think the spar is actually too fat at the end. The plans seem
to call out AN426 rivets as opposed to blind rivets, but I wanted to check
with you guys before I did something stupid... Since they're on the
"inside" of the trim tab behind the spar, they seem pretty tough to get at.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] riveting the trim tab spar |
And, by the way, a friend loaned me the Orndorff tape, and it doesn't say or
show a darn thing about this. He just glosses over the elevator trim tab
construction. What a ripoff...oh, wait it was free... 8
)
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] riveting the trim tab spar
> Question...how the heck do you rivet the bottom of the elevator trim tab
> spar?! I'm thinking the longeron yoke is my only shot, but that sure
seems
> funky, and I think the spar is actually too fat at the end. The plans
seem
> to call out AN426 rivets as opposed to blind rivets, but I wanted to check
> with you guys before I did something stupid... Since they're on the
> "inside" of the trim tab behind the spar, they seem pretty tough to get
at.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ryder <pilot(at)coolbiz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 10/15/01 |
i have sold my RV, but i would be glad to make any RV fairing for you... for free!
all you have to do is bring the aircraft to huntsville alabama (3M5). i am the
fabrication supervisor for bosch aerospace and we specialize in composite
materials. our goal is to build up the molds for the RV line and sell the finished
product at a reduced cost to you. (the first folks to bring their planes to us,
get
it free.)
if you have any questions, please feel free to call me at 256 852-5033.
best,
mike.
Michael Ryder
Pilot/Fabrication Supervisor
Bosch Aerospace Inc.
Huntsville, Alabama
pilot(at)coolbiz.com
http://www.vintageaviation.com
http://www.boschaero.com
>
> > DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> > >
> > > does anyone have a mold made or knows where i can purchase fairings for the
> > > landing gear?
> > >
> > > thank you
> > > dan carley
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
Is there a way to find the AD's on lycoming engines. I am contemplating
the purchase of an O360A1F6D but I have been told that there is an AD on
the Oil Pump - I want to find out more info on compliance.
The archives come up with nothing that I can specifically trac for ADs'
that I can find.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
carb ice!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
problem.
When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear up
when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up, just
finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing so
have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and were
just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags or
running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so I
dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
1200 fpm.
Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
looking before a next flight would be welcome.
Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim |
Norman wrote:
> PS - Sending to The List as this mod needs further discussion and many
> builders are interested in a two speed elevator trim. For those just tuning
> in there was a discussion many months ago where flying RVers were
> complaining about how the trim is too sensitive at high speed cruise. They
> were installing servo speed controlers (one made by Mac and the other by
> Matronics) then complaining that trimming was taking too long at pattern
> speed. Hence the two speed electric elevator trim modification.
The manual elevator trim works great at low and high speeds........ :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, what an awesome flying day Monday was in the
southeast USA.....North Alabama to Gatlinburg, TN for lunch/leaf viewing
and back in the office by 3:00pm........)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Ralph,
I can't answer the question about where to find all AD's, however I do know
about the AD you are refering to.
It is AD 96-09-10 Oil Pump Mod. I had to have this done to my Archer at
the last annual (5 months ago), as did most of the Lycomings out there. The
AD said they all have to be fixed no later than June 01, and we put it off
as long as we could. Seems that there was a failure or two, so the vast
majority of 0-360s had to have this oil pump mod. It consists of replacing
the two "gears" which make up the oil pump impellers with 2 new ones. When
mine came out, they looked absolutely new, and you couldn't tell the new
ones from the old. The new impeller kit cost me $240. They didn't break
down the labor charge for me, but I'm guessing its 10 hours or so of my
total 36 hour labor charges (geeezz, it will be nice to avoid this $2,485
fee on our RV's).
I would not hesitate buying this engine because of this AD, but make sure it
is complied with before you fly.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV-List: Engine AD's
Folks,
Is there a way to find the AD's on lycoming engines. I am contemplating
the purchase of an O360A1F6D but I have been told that there is an AD on
the Oil Pump - I want to find out more info on compliance.
The archives come up with nothing that I can specifically trac for ADs'
that I can find.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
30 Gallons per hour?? I sure hope that was a typo!. Mine would surge a
little bit when I did not have my airbox completely sealed up. You might
want to check the seal on the front AND back of the airbox as well. Also,
check that 30 gal/hour thing..you are getting ripped off on fuel!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
carb ice!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
problem.
When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear up
when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up, just
finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing so
have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and were
just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags or
running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so I
dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
1200 fpm.
Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
looking before a next flight would be welcome.
Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Anyone have a good/current e-mail for Bob Nuckolls. Tried to order some
wiring for my intercom, and his website is temporarily not taking
orders. Thanks in advance,
rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Its been quite a while now but it seems to me that a small drawing came
with the trim kit. Maybe yours was left out. Call Vans about it.
Cecil
>
> I am in the process of fitting and mounting my electric trim servo
> in the> left elevator. Two Questions. There are no dimensions on the
> drawings, s> o I presume I am to center the servo on the cover plate and line
up
> with
> the slot in the cover? Also, the mounting brackets for the servo
> seem too> long. The Plans say nothing, but I assume I should just trim these
> to fi> t? Trivial questions but I just want to be sure. Thanks.Al Grajek
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
Ralph, It depends on the serial # of the engine. I had to do my engine. It involves
changing out the oil pump impeller and the oil pump shaft. The parts for
my engine cost about $140 from Superior Air Parts, don't know
what the labor cost would be! Get the serial # of the engine and call Lycoming
for sure.
Tommy
6A Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV-List: Engine AD's
Folks,
Is there a way to find the AD's on lycoming engines. I am contemplating
the purchase of an O360A1F6D but I have been told that there is an AD on
the Oil Pump - I want to find out more info on compliance.
The archives come up with nothing that I can specifically trac for ADs'
that I can find.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mike(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
I think he was saying that his fuel pump was capable of 30 gph not that his
fuel flow during flight was 30 gph.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
> 30 Gallons per hour?? I sure hope that was a typo!. Mine would surge a
> little bit when I did not have my airbox completely sealed up. You might
> want to check the seal on the front AND back of the airbox as well. Also,
> check that 30 gal/hour thing..you are getting ripped off on fuel!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
>
> carb ice!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
>
> Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> problem.
> When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
> went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear
up
> when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
>
> I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
> mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up,
just
> finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing
so
> have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and
were
> just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
> was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags
or
> running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
>
> I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so
I
> dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
> 1200 fpm.
>
> Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
> looking before a next flight would be welcome.
>
> Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
On the 8/8A (and I'm assuming other models) the servo brackets (I refer to
these as Z-brackets . . . but I'm not sure where I picked up the
terminology) are too long and definitely have to be trimmed.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric elevator trim
>
> Its been quite a while now but it seems to me that a small drawing came
> with the trim kit. Maybe yours was left out. Call Vans about it.
> Cecil
>
>
> >
> > I am in the process of fitting and mounting my electric trim servo
> > in the> > left elevator. Two Questions. There are no dimensions on the
> > drawings, s> > o I presume I am to center the servo on the cover plate and
line up
> > with
> > the slot in the cover? Also, the mounting brackets for the servo
> > seem too> > long. The Plans say nothing, but I assume I should just trim these
> > to fi> > t? Trivial questions but I just want to be sure. Thanks.Al Grajek
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/16/2001 09:57:37 AM
the AD is about the impeller gears. Lycoming originally had aluminum gears
in the oil pump and it was determined through some failures that they
needed to change those and go to steel gears to hold up better. The AD was
to be complied with by this summer. To comply, you'd need to remove the
accessory housing, oil sump, and all components from the housing, remove
and inspect the oil pump housing, ( if it's a 2 piece design you'd need to
replace that as well. If you have a cotterpinned shaft, you'll need to
replace that also) and the possibly the drive shaft. In short, you can
expect to pay about $ 200 for the new kit ( our kit SL18109A-S ) is the
same a s the Lycoming kit 05K19423-S. The Lycoming is around $325. If you
need to replace the housing 78528, expect to pay about $275 or if you get
ours ( SL78528 ), it will be about $225. The Shaft 61174 is about $175, our
(SL61174A ) is about $125. You'll want to replace the gaskets involved (
sump , housing,mag, vac pump, prop gov housing, etc ) those will run about
$35. Hope this helps, and if anyone has any engine related questions, feel
free to ask. I'm the Manufacturer's Rep for Superior Air Parts, the largest
aftermarket parts manufacturer for Lycoming and Continental engines, it's
my job to help.The pub you're looking for SSP-297 is available through
Lycoming and lists all Service bulletins,letters, and instructions ( mine's
kind of old )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | leelesher(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Battery location for RV-8 with IO-360/wood prop |
Anyone do a weight and balance on an RV-8 with an IO-360 A1B6D with a wood prop?
Where is your battery? I'm hoping to put mine up front if that will work.
Lee Lesher, Colorado Springs
Finish kit/overhauling engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | riveting the trim tab spar |
Dan,
I had the same problem and ended up just using blind rivets. I haven't
tested it yet, but I figure if I really screwed it up I could simply
build another trim tab.
Todd Wenzel
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
Delafield, Wisconsin
RV-8AQB, Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
Question...how the heck do you rivet the bottom of the elevator trim tab
spar?! I'm thinking the longeron yoke is my only shot, but that sure
seems
funky, and I think the spar is actually too fat at the end. The plans
seem
to call out AN426 rivets as opposed to blind rivets, but I wanted to
check
with you guys before I did something stupid... Since they're on the
"inside" of the trim tab behind the spar, they seem pretty tough to get
at.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
Jim the AD applies to most but not all Lycoming engines. If you have aluminum
gears
they will have to be replaced with steel. Depends on engine serial number. Your
mechanic should have all the information. I have a O320 E2D that had and AD
to replace the steel gears with aluminum some time back and then they came
out with another AD to go back to steel. So it has been done twice on my
O320 but I also have an IO360 that is exempt from this AD.
Earl RV4 still working on finish kit
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
>
> Ralph,
> I can't answer the question about where to find all AD's, however I do know
> about the AD you are refering to.
> It is AD 96-09-10 Oil Pump Mod. I had to have this done to my Archer at
> the last annual (5 months ago), as did most of the Lycomings out there. The
> AD said they all have to be fixed no later than June 01, and we put it off
> as long as we could. Seems that there was a failure or two, so the vast
> majority of 0-360s had to have this oil pump mod. It consists of replacing
> the two "gears" which make up the oil pump impellers with 2 new ones. When
> mine came out, they looked absolutely new, and you couldn't tell the new
> ones from the old. The new impeller kit cost me $240. They didn't break
> down the labor charge for me, but I'm guessing its 10 hours or so of my
> total 36 hour labor charges (geeezz, it will be nice to avoid this $2,485
> fee on our RV's).
>
> I would not hesitate buying this engine because of this AD, but make sure it
> is complied with before you fly.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine AD's
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Is there a way to find the AD's on lycoming engines. I am contemplating
> the purchase of an O360A1F6D but I have been told that there is an AD on
> the Oil Pump - I want to find out more info on compliance.
>
> The archives come up with nothing that I can specifically trac for ADs'
> that I can find.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Here is a great web page that has all kinds of info. I just looked up your
particular question to make sure it is there, and it was. The web site is:
http://av-info.faa.gov/default.asp?PG=Aircraft
Click on the Airworthiness Directives selection. On the next screen on the
left side click again on Airworthiness directives. A new window will open.
Click on "ADs by Make". Now on the right side of the screen either scroll
down to Textron Lycoming or click on the "T" on the alphabet ruler then find
Textron Lycoming. Click on hte little blue arow to the left of Textron
Lycoming. A list of all the lycoming engines will then appear. Scroll down
until you find your engine and click on the blue arrow next to it. All the
ADs that apply to that engine will now appear. Find the AD you want and
click on it. The whole AD will come up on your screen.
this website is also great for all kinds of other info. Mess around with it
and you will be surprised at what you find.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Engine AD's
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:58:51 -0500
>
>
>Folks,
>
>Is there a way to find the AD's on lycoming engines. I am contemplating
>the purchase of an O360A1F6D but I have been told that there is an AD on
>the Oil Pump - I want to find out more info on compliance.
>
>The archives come up with nothing that I can specifically trac for ADs'
>that I can find.
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery location for RV-8 with IO-360/wood prop |
Lee,
While we have a C/S prop and are an 8A we difinitely need the battery in the
rear.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (22 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: leelesher(at)cs.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Battery location for RV-8 with IO-360/wood prop
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:15:57 -0400
>
>
>Anyone do a weight and balance on an RV-8 with an IO-360 A1B6D with a wood
>prop? Where is your battery? I'm hoping to put mine up front if that will
>work.
>
>Lee Lesher, Colorado Springs
>Finish kit/overhauling engine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Nuckolls |
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bob Nuckolls
Anyone have a good/current e-mail for Bob Nuckolls. Tried to order some
wiring for my intercom, and his website is temporarily not taking
orders. Thanks in advance,
rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks on tank fit ??? |
Thanks to all that responded to my poor tank fit after dimpling, lots of
good ideas. Van's said don't be too concerned with countersinking a little
further. But.... Last night I actually installed some screws and I will be
danged, everything seemed to fit well.
Thanks,
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | riveting the trim tab spar |
I back riveted the spar on and it worked great.
Just don't bend the trailing edge of the trim tab until after
back riveting. This prevents bending it back and forth too many times.
Steve Hurlbut
Kingston, Ont
RV-7A
>From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:19:28 -0500
>
><TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>
>Dan,
>I had the same problem and ended up just using blind rivets. I haven't
>tested it yet, but I figure if I really screwed it up I could simply
>build another trim tab.
>
>Todd Wenzel
>TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
>Delafield, Wisconsin
>RV-8AQB, Fuse
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
>SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
>
>
>Question...how the heck do you rivet the bottom of the elevator trim tab
>spar?! I'm thinking the longeron yoke is my only shot, but that sure
>seems
>funky, and I think the spar is actually too fat at the end. The plans
>seem
>to call out AN426 rivets as opposed to blind rivets, but I wanted to
>check
>with you guys before I did something stupid... Since they're on the
>"inside" of the trim tab behind the spar, they seem pretty tough to get
>at.
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>dan(at)rvproject.com
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Ken,
Trying to trouble shoot an issue over the internet very difficult but here goes.
You said while climbing out, then you said you went full rich after the problem
started.
Was your density altitude that high that you had to lean the engine at full
power? Or is your mixture too rich because of the jet work you did? An over rich
condition won't cause a miss, unless you foul a plug. Since you said it cleared
up at 2200 rpm, a fouled plug is probably not the issue. Pull the top plugs and
look at the color. They should be a light tan color. If they are black then the
mixture is probably an issue and you'll have to go thru the carb to see why.
What else did you do to the carb ? Did you set and adjust everything to factory
specs?
Are your plug leads new or old? Old leads could be breaking down, which causes
symptoms such as you have described. How old are your mags, if they are used you
should check inside for hairline cracks and general cleanliness as dirt can
cause misfiring and usually only at high power settings so your engine will run
fine at lower power and at idle.
With a little more info we might be able to nail it down for you.
Garry "Casper"
Ken Stribling wrote:
>
> Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> problem.
> When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
> went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear up
> when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
>
> I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
> mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up, just
> finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing so
> have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and were
> just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
> was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags or
> running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
>
> I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so I
> dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
> 1200 fpm.
>
> Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
> looking before a next flight would be welcome.
>
> Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/15/01 5:04:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com writes:
> I did get confused a bit there Tom, I now know what you mean. There are no
> rocket builders(?) in Ireland to my knowledge. There is another 3 builders
> here in Northern Ireland (all -6) and there's another two -4 builders in the
> Republic of Ireland. So Van's is not too far out in the promotion video.
> There's a RV4 in England that has -6 tanks on it and accoording to the
> owner, the wings were built by Art Chard.
>
> thanks for the info Tom,
>
>
How big is your bladder.....your stock RV6 tanks should be far better than
3hrs of flying time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | riveting the trim tab spar |
Steve,
I guess this begs the question "how do you bend the trim tab skin to the
appropriate profile with the spar already riveted in place on one side?"
Todd Wenzel
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
Delafield, Wisconsin
RV-8AQB, Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hurlbut [mailto:hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
I back riveted the spar on and it worked great.
Just don't bend the trailing edge of the trim tab until after
back riveting. This prevents bending it back and forth too many times.
Steve Hurlbut
Kingston, Ont
RV-7A
>From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:19:28 -0500
>
><TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>
>Dan,
>I had the same problem and ended up just using blind rivets. I haven't
>tested it yet, but I figure if I really screwed it up I could simply
>build another trim tab.
>
>Todd Wenzel
>TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
>Delafield, Wisconsin
>RV-8AQB, Fuse
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
>SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: riveting the trim tab spar
>
>
>Question...how the heck do you rivet the bottom of the elevator trim
tab
>spar?! I'm thinking the longeron yoke is my only shot, but that sure
>seems
>funky, and I think the spar is actually too fat at the end. The plans
>seem
>to call out AN426 rivets as opposed to blind rivets, but I wanted to
>check
>with you guys before I did something stupid... Since they're on the
>"inside" of the trim tab behind the spar, they seem pretty tough to get
>at.
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>dan(at)rvproject.com
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery location for RV-8 with IO-360/wood prop |
>
>Anyone do a weight and balance on an RV-8 with an IO-360 A1B6D with a wood
>prop? Where is your battery? I'm hoping to put mine up front if that will
>work.
>
>Lee Lesher, Colorado Springs
>Finish kit/overhauling engine
Lee,
With a wooden prop, you'll probably be able to do the firewall battery
mount. An angle valve engine, with metal prop would be quite nose heavy. My
parallel valve O-360 with Sensenich metal prop is quite forward on the CG,
but does allow for a large bubba factor in the back seat. You'll probably
end up in the same CG range as my airplane. I'm just making a WAG here, so
hopefully someone out there actually has a wt&bal sheet for just such an
installation. I personally have not seen a wooden prop on an RV8 so let's
just hope for the best.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
258 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 81 Msgs - 10/15/01 |
John increases the fuel tank one bay or rib on the RV-4 wing for the
Rocket.
I didn't think you wanted to build the Rocket but John has the wing tanks
skins and plans to increase the tank size. If you have a Rocket builder near
by, check out his plans.
If you're going to lengthen the fuel tank on an RV-4, you'll need to
lengthen the tank support on the spar. (duh.) You can get that piece from
John Harmon if Van doesn't sell it. I suppose that everything else should
be available from Van, i.e. RV-6 tank skins and ribs.
I've got a bunch of info on my site, including several pics that show the
Harmon tank and tank flange on the spar.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes.htm
Have fun,
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
URL as of 5/30/01
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Here's a pic of the modified yoke:
http://www.rvproject.com/images/tools_ground_down_yoke.jpg
I estimate I ground about 1/8" off the tip of the 3" regular yoke to better
clear those spar rivets and hinge brackets. You kind of have to work the
angle at which you hold it, since there's a sweet spot with every rivet
where the yoke gets closest to on-center. I managed to squeeze the
skin-to-spar VS rivets with this modification.
To those builders not yet started on the VS...save yourself the hassle and
just put the machine head on the rear of the spar.
I think I might manufacture a modified vise grip with flush sets welded on,
but minimized to the smallest possible size both height- and width-wise. I
wonder if people would buy this...
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)USA.dupont.com>
Subject: Re: VS Rivets
> Dan,
>
> Yea, I'd really like to see a picture. BTW, your web site is super. I
> check it every day for updates. You are really moving along at light
> speed.
>
> I have several yokes including a 4 inch no-hole. I can't even get to the
> rivets outside of the bracket area (but are above the spar doubler) well.
> I ordered a 1" no-hole yoke today and had planned to grind on it.
>
> I'll be out of town for until Monday (after tonight) so you may not hear
> back from me before then. But, I'll be waiting for your pictures.
>
> I'm a little surprised we don't here more about this difficulty. Prior to
> you bringing it up (the rivet interference), I hadn't heard of anyone
> complaining .... and I search and read alot!
>
> Thanks for sharing all your info with folks like me!
>
> Ellis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fuel vent pipe |
You shouldn't be able to siphon the entire tank dry through the vent line
because once you are back in a straight and level attitude your vent line
(inside the tank) will be in air not in fuel and this will break the siphon.
If you could start a siphon on a tank like this it would not matter how high
the loop was (within reason of course) the siphon would continue. A siphon
works on the differential 'head' (read pressure) between the inlet and the
outlet. If the presssure at the outlet is lower than the pressure at the
inlet and the 'pipe' is full of liquid then you will have a siphon.
Obviously the length of the pipe is a factor as well since a fluid flowing
through anything will cause some kind of a pressure drop, but in the context
of aircraft fuel vents I would think this length negligible.
Phil Birkelbach
RV-7 - N727WB (Reserved) - Wings
Houston, Texas
http://www.myrv7.com
Takeoffs are optional, Landings are mandatory.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
>
> There may be a chance that, if the vent line did not have so high a loop,
> that a solid slug of fuel may momentarily fill the entire line during
> manoeuvring which may lead to siphoning of the entire tank's contents
> without any visible signs from the cockpit save for the quantity gauge. I
> know that suction is usually required to start a siphon, but not always,
and
> once it is underway, requires no suction to keep it going. Got pretty
> experienced with siphoning as a poor teenager with a V-8 powered car( That
> may explain some of my thought processes)....
> Anyone know how to stop siphoning once it's started? Got to get the outlet
> above the inlet. I wonder if a steep, climbing turn would do it?
> Scott in VAncouver
> why does the room keep spinning?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
>
>
> >
> > I think the problem with that is if you don't go higher than the tank,
you
> > could lose some fuel out of that line. The reason that Van has you run
it
> > up and then down again is to provide a steep uphill climb to only allow
> air
> > in the line and not let fuel out.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave & Lou Tennant" <dltenno(at)iprimus.com.au>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: rv6 fuel vent pipe
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Hi has anyone changed the fuel tank vent pipe so it doesn't go into the
> > fuz?
> > I was thinking of running the vent pipe along the back of the tank along
> > the top flange then down at the outboard end and exit the bottom of the
> > wing just aft of the fwd row of screws
> > (just like the piper Cherokee system if anyone is familiar with it)
> > also the plans suggest to mount the fuel pump on the side of the fuz at
> > a 45 angle. why?
> > could it be mounted on the floor beneath the fuel selector instead?
> >
October 11, 2001 - October 16, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lr