RV-Archive.digest.vol-lt
October 23, 2001 - October 29, 2001
Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low" time
on our planes. :-)
Thanks in advance for your reply,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
======================
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
> Robin:
>
> I have the MicroMonitor with the 201 sender. I use it more as a fuel
> totalizer and fuel remaining more than I do as an instantaneous fuel
> flow. I know at certain power settings to expect a certain fuel flow
> at a given altitude and if I do not, I am not leaned enough.
>
> After 969.4 flying hours, I keep track of every drop of fuel and fuel
> flow totalizer values. All of them are in a spreadsheet. Once a year,
> I evaluate the entire year data.
>
> The sender is only 2.5% accurate according to the manufacturer. My
> average last year was 3.5%. I have left it so that it show a slight
> greater fuel flow than actual. This is a built in safety factor.
>
> Yes you can get better than 5%. It is great that you have it that
> close in less than 60 hours. It is very difficult to do it on one
> tank. Run several hundred gallons of fuel keeping records. Made
> adjustments accordingly.
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update |
E-bay?
--- Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
> GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in Germany
> that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
> sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Golias" <pago16(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Mike
If it was the place I've been using, it was American Avionics out of Seattle
and the cost was $52.00.
PG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Paul, we had out GPS90 updated for $50 at OSH this year but for the life
of
> me I can't remember by whom. Have you tried places like Pacific Aero,
Chief
> Aircraft or some of those type of companies?
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
> > GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
> Germany
> > that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
> > sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Paul,
What's their email or phone #, I'll give my card & $. I have the same
problem with my KLX135A.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
> GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
Germany
> that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
> sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Yup, that was it, thanks. I'll pass it along.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Golias" <pago16(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Mike
> If it was the place I've been using, it was American Avionics out of
Seattle
> and the cost was $52.00.
> PG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
>
> >
> > Paul, we had out GPS90 updated for $50 at OSH this year but for the
life
> of
> > me I can't remember by whom. Have you tried places like Pacific Aero,
> Chief
> > Aircraft or some of those type of companies?
> >
> > Mike
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel
mount
> > > GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
> > Germany
> > > that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned
about
> > > sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Paul Besing
> > > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > > Flying
> > > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > > http://www.kitlog.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow accuracy |
Yes, I've been tweaking the setting, that's how I got it to the degree of
accuracy it is. Many times I get an error of .1 or .2 gallons, but always
within .5.
> On your FP-5 you can tweak the "K" factor to your installation for even
> greater accuracy.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel flow accuracy
>
>
> Robin,
>
> You should expect better, but you should also measure it over a larger
> sample size (more gallons). My Floscan 201, used in concert with the
> Electronics International FP-5 flow gauge, is accurate to within .5
gallons
> every time on a 30 gallon fill-up (RV-8s have 42 gallon capacity). Test on
a
> whole tank before concluding the system is inacurate.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> >
> > Listers-
> >
> > I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
> > accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
> > using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
> > getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter downstream
> > (as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite a
> > bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel selector
> > > 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> > > carb.
> >
> > After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
> > gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed that
> > Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better results
> > with this dampener over my current setup?
> >
> > Robin Wessel
> > RV-6A 58 hours
> > Tigard, OR
> > http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Pop Rivets are Out |
Hey, I got all the rivets out. It was actually pretty easy using the
technique you mentioned and I didn't even tear anything up. Actually, after
grinding the head off a little an easy tap with the punch was all that was
needed, I didn't have to use the spring punch.
I put the clamps on the wing with the flap pinned in place after the rivets
were removed and discovered....."how do I hold the flap brace in position
when the flap is not attached in order to drill the holes in the correct
position? Hmmmmm. I figured I could just move the flap brace so that the
bottom skin is level along a straight but that's not very accurate. the
problem is, since the skins are already riveted on, I can't clamp the flap
brace in place.
I've ordered a box of 100 cherry max rivets and they should be here later
this week so I've got some time to think about it.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Golias" <pago16(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Mike
> If it was the place I've been using, it was American Avionics out of
Seattle
> and the cost was $52.00.
> PG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
>
> >
> > Paul, we had out GPS90 updated for $50 at OSH this year but for the
life
> of
> > me I can't remember by whom. Have you tried places like Pacific Aero,
> Chief
> > Aircraft or some of those type of companies?
> >
> > Mike
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel
mount
> > > GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
> > Germany
> > > that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned
about
> > > sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Paul Besing
> > > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > > Flying
> > > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > > http://www.kitlog.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Paul, my buddy Paul reminded me of the location where we got out Garman
databases updated. It was American Avionics out of Seattle. I didn't see
any prices on their website but here is the link.
http://www.americanavionics.com/
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
> GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
Germany
> that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
> sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Isn't this the guy who came on the list last year asking to borrow someone's
Vetterman exhaust so he could copy it and sell them cheaper. Well if so he
needs to update his clone because Larry has changed the pipe interlock
mechanism to a new design. It will be interesting to see how he holds up
customer support wise. Larry is a pretty hard act to follow.
Garry "Casper"
OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Rumor has it that he is using Vetterman's design without compensation to
> Vetterman and the workmanship is not nearly as good.
>
> Becki Orndorff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 10/22/01 |
Here's a weird (wired) one.
I have all vans newer style analog gauges in my RV-6, all wired exactly to
vans drawing. The circuit protection is from a 5 amp P&B breaker/sw. The amp
gauge seems to be leaking??? When I turn on the master sw the fuel gauges
come on, even though the inst. power sw is off. If I disconnect the + lead
of the amp gauge this doesn't happen. It also is kinda strange that vans amp
gauges also need a power/gnd source as most amp gauges don't, they just need
the shunt V drop to power the movement with a resistor to calibrate.
Additionally, when I key the radio xmit, on either radio, the amp gauge goes
to full blast, and the tachometer and map fade to zero. But all the other
gauges function normally.
The final piece of this puzzle is I then disconnected the switched + from
the amp gauge and provided power to it from the bat side of the shunt. This
corrected all the other problems but now the gauge is justified about 3 amps
negative of zero and has no circuit protection for the power source.
I think its a problem inside the gauge, but I don't know how this non-self
powered D'Arsenval movement works. Most of them will respond to something
like .0005 to .010 amps generated by the shunt resistance, so what the other
power source is for ??? And how it could be sorta leaking to some gauges
and not others ??? ???
thx for your thoughts
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 10/22/01 |
W,
I don't have van's schematics yet since I am not at that point, but
could you provide us (me) a little sketch of your circuit in question
with details about each of the connections of the ammeter? I haven't
seen Van's ammeter either, but from what I've gathered from you and
other posters is that there are 4 connections (?); + connection to a
power source, Gnd connection to the same power source, then + & -
connections to the shunt. Is this correct? Also, have you talked to
Van's about the possibly faulty ammeter?
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse (sorry I mentioned the "s" word above)
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 10/22/01
Here's a weird (wired) one.
I have all vans newer style analog gauges in my RV-6, all wired exactly
to
vans drawing. The circuit protection is from a 5 amp P&B breaker/sw. The
amp
gauge seems to be leaking??? When I turn on the master sw the fuel
gauges
come on, even though the inst. power sw is off. If I disconnect the +
lead
of the amp gauge this doesn't happen. It also is kinda strange that vans
amp
gauges also need a power/gnd source as most amp gauges don't, they just
need
the shunt V drop to power the movement with a resistor to calibrate.
Additionally, when I key the radio xmit, on either radio, the amp gauge
goes
to full blast, and the tachometer and map fade to zero. But all the
other
gauges function normally.
The final piece of this puzzle is I then disconnected the switched +
from
the amp gauge and provided power to it from the bat side of the shunt.
This
corrected all the other problems but now the gauge is justified about 3
amps
negative of zero and has no circuit protection for the power source.
I think its a problem inside the gauge, but I don't know how this
non-self
powered D'Arsenval movement works. Most of them will respond to
something
like .0005 to .010 amps generated by the shunt resistance, so what the
other
power source is for ??? And how it could be sorta leaking to some
gauges
and not others ??? ???
thx for your thoughts
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: muff heater scrubbies |
Wal Mart in the cleaning products section
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: muff heater scrubbies |
I didn't find the scrubbies to be very effective in producing more heat.
Adding a second muff (plumbed in series with the original muff) was much
more effective.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiway.net/~sbuc/journal
====================
Karl Schilling wrote:
>
>
> Go to a commercial kitchen supplier. They have them in their kitchen
> supplies.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RGray67968(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: muff heater scrubbies
>
>
> Listers,
> Went shopping for some stainless pads/wool/scrubbies for my heat muff
> today and came home empty handed. Where are you folks getting the stainless
> stuff or are you using something else?
> Thanks in advance
> Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - finishing touches (boy, that
> sounds almost as good as 'flying'......well......almost
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Services For Ken Brock |
"socal-rvlist" ,
"Ganzer" ,
"Meininger" ,
"TaylorD" , "Wright"
To all,
Below are the details of Ken's service this Friday.
The latest word from Ken's machine shop is that Ken lost directional control on
landing in his T-18 due to a broken tailwheel assy (no more details) and departed
the runway, struck a telephone pole and flipped. Ken was hit in the back
of the head with a toolbox which may have caused the broken neck.
Let's take a moment to think about Ken, his wife, and the people he touched during
his time with us.
Also take a moment to think about what's loose in the back of your airplane than
can hurt you.
Let's all be careful out there.
Laird (RV-6)
SoCal
Services will be held
Friday, 10-26-01 at 1:00pm
Forest Lawn
4471 Lincoln Ave
Cypress, Calif.
Viewing of body will be:
Thursday, 10-25-01 from 4-10pm
at the Hope Chapel ( Forest Lawn).
Ken's wifes address is:
Marie Brock
11852 Western Ave
Stanton, Ca 90680
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap fit "what went wrong" |
Mike,
The trick for removal of cherry max rivets is to buy one of Averys spring loaded
center punches. Place the heavy end of the center punch on the mandrel and
give the end of the punch a good pull and let-er-rip. If you do this once or
twice more the mandrel will actually pop out the back end of the rivet. Then
just drill what's left out. Those steel mandrels can be a pain. I tried everything
including using a drimmel tool to eat away at the head. The center punch
method worked the best.
- Jim Andrews
N89JA Flying!
--
On Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:51:19
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
>Thanks to everyone for the replies and ideas about how to fix my flap/top
>skin interference problem. I wanted to let everyone know what happened and
>what you can do to avoid the problem in the first place.
>
>Most people have a lot more brain cells than I do and don't put themselves
>in this position but noooooooo, not me.
>
>Mark Phillips was a big help since he experiences something simular but not
>to the extent that I did. Thanks for the help Mark. When mounting the flap
>I used both wood wing templates to position the flap, line up the trailing
>edge with the aileron and install the hinge pin. Everything looked great
>and I proceeded to make the flap brace. When I finished the flap brace I
>lined it up and drilled the hinge/skin/brace all together. I then proceded
>to position the flap brace to the rear spar for drilling. what I failed to
>do was to reinstall the wing template and position the flap in the
>appropriate location. Maybe it was late at night, maybe I was hungry or
>maybe I was just being a bonehead, but I fit the flap brace to the spar and
>just let it fall where it may and drilled it to the rear spar. Until I
>riveted the top skin on and installed the flap for the final time the
>alignment problem didn't reach out and slap me in the face.
>
>Now, how do I fix the problem. I have to drill out the rivets that hold the
>flap brace to rear spar, install the wing templates then reposition the
>brace and drill new holes inbetween the existing holes so as to not have any
>hole to hole interference problems.
>
>The additional problem that I have now is that I used CherryMax Rivets to
>rivet the flap brace to the rear spar. I don't know how many of you have
>tried to drill out a CherryMax Blind Rivet but if you have any suggestions,
>I'd love to hear them. Right now, the procedure that seems to work is to
>grind the head of the rivet down some and this will allow me to drive out
>the mandrel. After the mandrel is driven out then I can use a sharp drill
>bit with light pressure to drill through the rivet and remove it. Trying to
>drill out the mandrell is an exercise in futility.
>
>If you haven't installed your flap brace yet be sure that the wood wing
>templates are in place before doing it.
>
>Thanks for everyone's help.
>
>Mike
>
>
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap fit "what went wrong" |
Hi Jim,
I have one of those spring loaded center punches. No amount of punching
would get that mandrel out. What worked very easily was to grind off about
half of the rivet head then it popped out very easily with an easy tap with
a punch. I knocked out about 25 of them in about 30 minutes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Flap fit "what went wrong"
>
>
> Mike,
>
> The trick for removal of cherry max rivets is to buy one of Averys spring
loaded center punches. Place the heavy end of the center punch on the
mandrel and give the end of the punch a good pull and let-er-rip. If you do
this once or twice more the mandrel will actually pop out the back end of
the rivet. Then just drill what's left out. Those steel mandrels can be a
pain. I tried everything including using a drimmel tool to eat away at the
head. The center punch method worked the best.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> N89JA Flying!
>
>
> --
>
> On Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:51:19
> Mike Nellis wrote:
> >
> >Thanks to everyone for the replies and ideas about how to fix my flap/top
> >skin interference problem. I wanted to let everyone know what happened
and
> >what you can do to avoid the problem in the first place.
> >
> >Most people have a lot more brain cells than I do and don't put
themselves
> >in this position but noooooooo, not me.
> >
> >Mark Phillips was a big help since he experiences something simular but
not
> >to the extent that I did. Thanks for the help Mark. When mounting the
flap
> >I used both wood wing templates to position the flap, line up the
trailing
> >edge with the aileron and install the hinge pin. Everything looked great
> >and I proceeded to make the flap brace. When I finished the flap brace I
> >lined it up and drilled the hinge/skin/brace all together. I then
proceded
> >to position the flap brace to the rear spar for drilling. what I failed
to
> >do was to reinstall the wing template and position the flap in the
> >appropriate location. Maybe it was late at night, maybe I was hungry or
> >maybe I was just being a bonehead, but I fit the flap brace to the spar
and
> >just let it fall where it may and drilled it to the rear spar. Until I
> >riveted the top skin on and installed the flap for the final time the
> >alignment problem didn't reach out and slap me in the face.
> >
> >Now, how do I fix the problem. I have to drill out the rivets that hold
the
> >flap brace to rear spar, install the wing templates then reposition the
> >brace and drill new holes inbetween the existing holes so as to not have
any
> >hole to hole interference problems.
> >
> >The additional problem that I have now is that I used CherryMax Rivets to
> >rivet the flap brace to the rear spar. I don't know how many of you have
> >tried to drill out a CherryMax Blind Rivet but if you have any
suggestions,
> >I'd love to hear them. Right now, the procedure that seems to work is to
> >grind the head of the rivet down some and this will allow me to drive out
> >the mandrel. After the mandrel is driven out then I can use a sharp
drill
> >bit with light pressure to drill through the rivet and remove it. Trying
to
> >drill out the mandrell is an exercise in futility.
> >
> >If you haven't installed your flap brace yet be sure that the wood wing
> >templates are in place before doing it.
> >
> >Thanks for everyone's help.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
>
>
> Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
> http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RLatta7259(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap fit "what went wrong" |
An easy way to remove the mandrel is to take the broken off discarded portion
of the mandrel, insert the end into the rivet and tap it with a hammer. The
mandrel plug pops right out. Works every time.
RL in NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 10/22/01 |
Wheeler,
You've got a miswire. If the ammeter goes to full and other instruments go out
when you transmit then (at the risk of starting this all over again) the ammeter
shunt and/or the ammeter itself is not wired correctly. The ammeter will not
cause this problem.
Dave -6 flying again in SoCal!
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>
> Additionally, when I key the radio xmit, on either radio, the amp gauge goes
> to full blast, and the tachometer and map fade to zero. But all the other
> gauges function normally.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | MT Extended Hub Prop |
FYI,
I had friends at Acrotech (Giles G200 folks) who tested many composite CS
props. I won't mention any names but the key opinions are of very
respectable back ground. Of all the props tested, they liked the Hartzel
2-blade composite most, however Hartzel does not recommend this prop for 4
cylinder engines (due to unique vibration of 4 cyl) and it costs around
$20K. The close second was the MT. They were not impressed with the
WhirlWind, however I suppose improvements may have been made. This data is
around 3 years old. The main reason given for Hartzel preference was it's
fully composite construction allows a narrow cross section at the root
making it more efficient design. MT, and I believe WhirlWind, are built on
wood cores requiring think cross section at the core for strength.
Upside of these composite CS props is light blades do not put as much stress
on the crank during unlimited or air show like acro. Biggest down side on
these is the frequent maintenance required, coupled with MT service required
in Germany, can make ownership very inconvenient.
Bottom line, unless your doing flipping-around acro you will probably get
better performance from the standard Hartzel sold by Van. The overall weight
difference is about 15 lbs. Is 15 lbs worth an additional $3K plus frequent
rebuilds plus reduced overall performance? Up to you.
I really like the MT and would love having one but the practical side of me
says go with standard Hartzel for CS. Unfortunately, for my airplane, I am
not single and I have kids which present a much higher priority in my life.
I'm presently pushing a Warnke Wood prop and guess what?, It works just
great! I do need more prop though so someday I'll upgrade. Until then, I'll
fly.
Mike Wilson
RV4 200HP
climb 1800 - 2000, maintains 1500+ through 4000ft
182+ KIAS at 2700rpm - 50 feet MSL, approx 30.00 bar
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman [mailto:nhunger(at)sprint.ca]
Subject: RV-List: MT Extended Hub Prop
I got some more info from Germany today. They are contradicting
themselves on the shipping price. Last week they said $200 to the USA
and today they say $650 to the west coast of Canada. Those of you
familiar with a world map might notice a similarity in distances between
say Vancouver and Los Angeles from Germany.
They say if you want an aerobatic prop (which they determine as more
than a roll or loop) you need a counter weighted one and the price is
$9940. They say the G's are unlimited as your plane will reach limits
before the prop. This prop is a hydraulic CS.
As for rain they say with the stainless leading edge you will only lose
the paint off it. They same composition is used on certified aircraft
such as the Malibu or Extra 400. TBO is 1800 hours or 5 years.
Now I'm waiting for more info from Wirlwind. I want a prop with an
extended hub to be able to use the Sam James cowl without sacrificing a
reasonable amount of aerobatics. The extended hub Hartzell is limited to
3.1 G's as reported here on the List. For what it's worth.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Instrument plastic connectors |
Could someone help me with what connectors I have to get. The plastic ones
that screw into the Alt Airspeed and Vsi. I cant seem to find which ones to
order.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Sam,
The biggest thing Gary has to watch out for is T-Birds driving on the taxiways!
You remember he got hit by a big piece of Ford tin several years ago. He'd have
many more hours on the RV if that hadn't happened. I'm sure he'll pipe up
on what problems he's had.
I think Paul Rosales now has over 1000 hours on his RV-6a now (see the March picture
in the RV calendar). This is all since June, 2000. Paul, what problems
have you had?
I'm coming up on 400 hrs soon. My Father and I have had the RV from SoCal to Delaware,
and Arlington to the Bahamas. The only (knock on wood) problems to date
has been a failed oil cooler (setrab at 3 hrs), an errant hawk and sparrow
(all of which have been well detailed here on the list), and the basic maintenance
of oil and tires and fuel.
Well, I guess I take that back. The exhaust hangers have been a nuisance since
the beginning. I reworked/redesigned them several times and they've finally
been working well for the last 100 hrs. The other thing I've replaced is the
carb heat cable. The heat from the exhaust melted the inner liner of the cable.
I also have a nuisance oil lead up by the mags that I can't seem to fix.
Every part of the airframe is working fine except 2 small cracks in the rudder
skin radiating from a rivet, and 2 smoking rivets on the lower fwd skin. I was
also having problems keeping the fiberglass gear leg fairings from breaking
the mounting tabs (must be those rough landings), but I finally come up with a
system that has bee working well for me.
I consider most of those things construction bugs that I've finally gotten fixed.
I look forward to many more hours of fun in the coming years.
But the biggest problem I have is trying to keep money in the fuel account! Oh
well, it's worth it.
Matter of fact, screw the bank account, I think I'll fly it out to Las Cruses this
weekend to join in the fun. Most of the SoCal wing that is attending should
be there around noon Friday if the usual low morning clouds don't keep us on
the ground until later.
Look forward to seeing you all there. The rest of you keep working on your kits.
Someday it'll be SOOOOO worth it.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Oct 23, 2001 7:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: High time RVs
Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have experienced
similar results.
However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your RV.
Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs (or
RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or service
issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your plane.
Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the hours
accumulate?
Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low" time
on our planes. :-)
Thanks in advance for your reply,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
======================
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
> Robin:
>
> I have the MicroMonitor with the 201 sender. I use it more as a fuel
> totalizer and fuel remaining more than I do as an instantaneous fuel
> flow. I know at certain power settings to expect a certain fuel flow
> at a given altitude and if I do not, I am not leaned enough.
>
> After 969.4 flying hours, I keep track of every drop of fuel and fuel
> flow totalizer values. All of them are in a spreadsheet. Once a year,
> I evaluate the entire year data.
>
> The sender is only 2.5% accurate according to the manufacturer. My
> average last year was 3.5%. I have left it so that it show a slight
> greater fuel flow than actual. This is a built in safety factor.
>
> Yes you can get better than 5%. It is great that you have it that
> close in less than 60 hours. It is very difficult to do it on one
> tank. Run several hundred gallons of fuel keeping records. Made
> adjustments accordingly.
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Extended Hub Prop |
mike wilson,
You are totally out of date. Old out of date information, as quoted by
you, is not a service to homebuilders.
akroteck has been out of business for about 2 years.
G200 is about 10 years old.
the whirlwind you refer to is an old design, about 10 years old.
"unique vibration" yes, but a very desirable fix is available.
wood cores; nope.
again i suggest anyone who desires up to date information and real numbers
read SPORT AEROBATICS june 2001, there are 2 good articles.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Extended Hub Prop |
Whirlwind went to an all carbon blades about 1 1/2 years ago on their 100 series
propellers (80 to 115 HP), their 200 (180-200 HP Aerobatic) and 400 (260-325 HP
Aerobatic) series went to carbon a little over a year ago.
The 150 series has carbon blades is designed for sport/cross country flying, not
serious Aerobatic use, and is the prototype stage. Once initial testing is complete
it will have a 4 G limit. The RV test program is due to get underway in the next
three weeks. I will be posting progress reports on the list periodically.
Whirlwind is not taking deposits on the 150 series prop until the test phase is
complete.
If you have a 4 or 8 and love doing aerobatics more than cross country flying you
might want to look into their 200 series. Their web site is at;
www.whirlwindpropellers.com
Garry "Casper"
"Wilson, James Mike" wrote:
>
> FYI,
>
> I had friends at Acrotech (Giles G200 folks) who tested many composite CS
> props. I won't mention any names but the key opinions are of very
> respectable back ground. Of all the props tested, they liked the Hartzel
> 2-blade composite most, however Hartzel does not recommend this prop for 4
> cylinder engines (due to unique vibration of 4 cyl) and it costs around
> $20K. The close second was the MT. They were not impressed with the
> WhirlWind, however I suppose improvements may have been made. This data is
> around 3 years old. The main reason given for Hartzel preference was it's
> fully composite construction allows a narrow cross section at the root
> making it more efficient design. MT, and I believe WhirlWind, are built on
> wood cores requiring think cross section at the core for strength.
>
> Upside of these composite CS props is light blades do not put as much stress
> on the crank during unlimited or air show like acro. Biggest down side on
> these is the frequent maintenance required, coupled with MT service required
> in Germany, can make ownership very inconvenient.
>
> Bottom line, unless your doing flipping-around acro you will probably get
> better performance from the standard Hartzel sold by Van. The overall weight
> difference is about 15 lbs. Is 15 lbs worth an additional $3K plus frequent
> rebuilds plus reduced overall performance? Up to you.
>
> I really like the MT and would love having one but the practical side of me
> says go with standard Hartzel for CS. Unfortunately, for my airplane, I am
> not single and I have kids which present a much higher priority in my life.
> I'm presently pushing a Warnke Wood prop and guess what?, It works just
> great! I do need more prop though so someday I'll upgrade. Until then, I'll
> fly.
>
> Mike Wilson
> RV4 200HP
> climb 1800 - 2000, maintains 1500+ through 4000ft
> 182+ KIAS at 2700rpm - 50 feet MSL, approx 30.00 bar
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Norman [mailto:nhunger(at)sprint.ca]
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: MT Extended Hub Prop
>
>
> I got some more info from Germany today. They are contradicting
> themselves on the shipping price. Last week they said $200 to the USA
> and today they say $650 to the west coast of Canada. Those of you
> familiar with a world map might notice a similarity in distances between
> say Vancouver and Los Angeles from Germany.
>
> They say if you want an aerobatic prop (which they determine as more
> than a roll or loop) you need a counter weighted one and the price is
> $9940. They say the G's are unlimited as your plane will reach limits
> before the prop. This prop is a hydraulic CS.
>
> As for rain they say with the stainless leading edge you will only lose
> the paint off it. They same composition is used on certified aircraft
> such as the Malibu or Extra 400. TBO is 1800 hours or 5 years.
>
> Now I'm waiting for more info from Wirlwind. I want a prop with an
> extended hub to be able to use the Sam James cowl without sacrificing a
> reasonable amount of aerobatics. The extended hub Hartzell is limited to
> 3.1 G's as reported here on the List. For what it's worth.
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | MT Extended Hub Prop |
Sorry!!!
I did say the information was given to me 3 years ago.
The point I was trying to make was you don't need to spend $8000 for a prop.
Hope you sell lots of props and make lots of money. Good luck!
-----Original Message-----
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com [mailto:PittsS1(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT Extended Hub Prop
mike wilson,
You are totally out of date. Old out of date information, as quoted
by
you, is not a service to homebuilders.
akroteck has been out of business for about 2 years.
G200 is about 10 years old.
the whirlwind you refer to is an old design, about 10 years old.
"unique vibration" yes, but a very desirable fix is available.
wood cores; nope.
again i suggest anyone who desires up to date information and real numbers
read SPORT AEROBATICS june 2001, there are 2 good articles.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 10/22/01 |
The same thing happens to my Ammeter when I transmit. Sometimes the needle
will do a complete 360! I queried the List a few weeks ago about it. I do
not see any movement of the tachometer or other instruments, however. If the
radio is not on, then I see no indication that the ammeter is working at
all. I wired it according to Van's instructions and suspect a bad gauge. I
am having too much fun flying my new airplane to worry about it, however.
I'll fix it this winter. Or maybe next year.
Steve Soule
N227RV, RV-6A
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Here's a weird (wired) one.
I have all vans newer style analog gauges in my RV-6, all
wired exactly to
vans drawing. The circuit protection is from a 5 amp P&B
breaker/sw. The amp
gauge seems to be leaking??? When I turn on the master sw
the fuel gauges
come on, even though the inst. power sw is off. If I
disconnect the + lead
of the amp gauge this doesn't happen. It also is kinda
strange that vans amp
gauges also need a power/gnd source as most amp gauges
don't, they just need
the shunt V drop to power the movement with a resistor to
calibrate.
Additionally, when I key the radio xmit, on either radio,
the amp gauge goes
to full blast, and the tachometer and map fade to zero. But
all the other
gauges function normally.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Gear leg intersection fairings |
Does anyone have any advice to make the job of making intersection
fairings easier. What did you use?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
--- Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have experienced
> similar results.
>
> However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your
> RV.
> Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs
> (or
> RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or service
> issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your
> plane.
> Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the hours
> accumulate?
>
> Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low"
> time
> on our planes. :-)
>
> Thanks in advance for your reply,
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
Sam:
Had records of amount of maintenance time compared to flight time but
stopped keeping track. Average was 1-hour maintenance to 10 hours
flying.
I really have to think about service issues. On 23 January 1999, at
307 hours, a car ran into the airplane. 642 man-hours work and 4.25
months later it was flying again. I am only talking about normal wear
and tear and items to keep aircraft airworthy.
Building and operating goals for the airplane since day one are still
valid today:
1. Safe.
2. Reliable
3. Easy to work on.
List of thing that have broken or been repaired besides the "Bird
strike". (Ford Thunderbird) I reviewed the logbook to get all of
them.
Dented elevator backing into hangar. Rebuilt.
Both interior panel lights burned out. (3 times on 2 bulbs.)
One of two landing lights burned out and replaced.
One used stobe light burned out and replaced. Was used when it was
installed.
Overhauled turn coordinator failed at 27 hours. Replaced with needle
ball.
RC Allen attitude gyros failed 5 times. As short as 74 and as long as
290 hours. Have NEW SIGMA TEC to install when the present one dies.
Push to talk switch button came out of pilot stick. Glued in. 3 years
later, it came out again and replaced switch. (The button that goes
into the switch.)
Replaced Wal-Mart carpeting in cockpit with same.
Transponder KT-76A Mod 7 in compliance with AD 98-14-3.
Update Apollo 360 GPS database twice. Once was free from Apollo.
FAB-320-C cracked. A little stress after Bird Strike. Replaced twice.
Have Titanium to fab new part when I get around to it.
Carb heat door hinge replaced 3 times. Final time was with Stainless
Steel hinge.
Carb heat cable replaced. Adjust arm on FAB-320 so that it does not
bend and break cable.
Installed Wd606FP reinforcement on floor mount rudder pedals to
terminate 50 hour inspection IAW SERVICE BULLETIN 98-3-1.
Sheared off AN3 bolt on Aviation Products tail wheel to tail spring.
Brake master cylinder started leaking. Replace seals on pilot side
only.
On third set of tires and 2nd set of brakes.
One tailwheel.
Replaced impulse coupling on mag at 100 hours to get out of recurring
100 inspection.
Inspect impulse coupling and mags at 500 hours.
Homemade exhaust hanger broke at 125 hours. No problem since.
Replaced tail wheel chains twice due to stretching. 2nd time used
cables.
Vacuum pump suction getting low. Replaced last weekend with new.
Alternator went off line. Inspection shows field voltage present but
no output. Removed, disassemble, inspected, tested, bench tested, no
fault found. Reinstalled on aircraft removing corrosion found on
spacers for the mount. Ground and flight test ok. (Bad ground due to
corrosion and no alternator ground wire.)
Destroyed wheel pant in cross wind landing. 22 Kts gusting 34 Kts.
(YES THIRTY FOUR KNOTS) Three-point touch down. Unable to track
straight after speed dropped. Wheelpants and gear leg fairing
replaced.
Replaced Spark Plugs at 780 hours.
Still on original RG battery.
Solenoid 20103-12 on Sky-Tec starter died at 880 hours. Replaced with
new starter, flew home, repaired old started and reinstalled.
Still need to replace tailwheel fairing. It was broken by
ex-girlfriend while she was PIC and taxiing.
Looks like very few issues related to the airframe.
Sorry that this is not in any order. Started typing as I thought of
stuff then looked in logbooks.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MELVIN BARLOW" <melbarlow(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Any RV-4's flying with a 70" prop?? |
On 10/22/01, Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> I'm thinking of swinging a 70" diameter propeller on one of my RV-4's.
It looks like it will stay clear, even on nose low landings. Up til now
I've only swung 68" props on my 4's. <<
Chuck, I'm swinging a Warnke 72"X72" on my 160HP -4. Since 1991, about 500
Hr. I do quite a few wheel landings and even (carefully) use the brakes
with
the tail up sometimes. I don't get into too many grass strips. No problems
so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
>
> The biggest thing Gary has to watch out for is T-Birds driving on the taxiways!
You remember he got hit by a big piece of Ford tin several years ago. He'd
have many more hours on the RV if that hadn't happened. I'm sure he'll pipe
up on what problems he's had.
I had forgotten about the "Bird Strike"!
Gary, even though the history of your plane is somewhat exceptional, the
info you submitted was very useful. Sounds as if the airframe is good
for many hours, and most problems are centered around the stuff we bolt
into the airframe. The exhaust hangars is a problem that RVers have
fought for a long time.
Builders.....remember.........all those extra doodads and gadgets that
are added to the project will have to be serviced/repaired/replaced at
some point........when you had rather be flying!
Best regards,
Sam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg intersection fairings |
Jim...if you find out how to make that %
$
&
&%job any easier....PLEASE
let me know...I have destroyed 2 attempts so far....jolly in
aurora...hate fiberglass!
CiminoJim wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any advice to make the job of making intersection
> fairings easier. What did you use?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> (570)842-4057
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Today's Milestones |
Several milestones today...
1) The recording tach passed 100 hours.
2) I'm beginning a new "string" of good landings. I'm up to 2 now.
3) I got my first ride in an open cockpit biplane (Boeing B-75...AKA
Stearman). Fun, fun, fun.
4) I did aerobatics in same... (Zero or slightly negative G in an open
cockpit airplane brings up the question: "Oh %#!!#!%, did I get the seatbelt
fastened?)
5) #3 & #4 are excellent motivation to begin building the Hatz I purchased
plans and materials for last fall.
6) I saw some clown roll a 172... Nice roll - inside a new restricted area.
7) It is time to replace the RV's left tire. I've rotated it once, but it
is badly worn. The archives show several instances of left tires wearing
quickly. I wonder if this is related to torque on takeoff? I'm open to
other theories.
8) I may take the RV out of service this winter (January?) and have the prop
repitched. I need 50 - 100 more RPM on takeoff. I'm only getting 2050 RPM
as I break ground on takeoff, and the max RPM I can get in level flight is
2650. Thoughts?
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow accuracy |
Randy-
Thanks- I should probably clarify. I have computed the fuel flow using
multiple fill ups and fill-ups involving more gallons. The problem is that
the totalizer readings are not consistently higher or lower than actual. One
fill up would be plus 1 gal high, the next .75 gal short. I am sure that
over hundreds of gallons the average accuracy will be ok but the standard
deviation will be unacceptably high. What I really want is good accuracy
over short flights. Is it unreasonable to expect good accuracy when I top
off the tanks with 10-15 gallons?
robin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel flow accuracy
>
> Robin,
>
> You should expect better, but you should also measure it over a larger
> sample size (more gallons). My Floscan 201, used in concert with the
> Electronics International FP-5 flow gauge, is accurate to within .5
gallons
> every time on a 30 gallon fill-up (RV-8s have 42 gallon capacity). Test on
a
> whole tank before concluding the system is inacurate.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> >
> > Listers-
> >
> > I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
> > accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
> > using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
> > getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter downstream
> > (as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite a
> > bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel selector
> > > 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> > > carb.
> >
> > After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
> > gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed that
> > Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better results
> > with this dampener over my current setup?
> >
> > Robin Wessel
> > RV-6A 58 hours
> > Tigard, OR
> > http://robin.getbiz.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6 Tail for parts. |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
I have an almost complete RV 6 tail kit for anyone who may need parts.
The orphan project I bought had a wing kit and two tail kits. I'll take
$500 or less for the whole thing. Reply off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Whirl Wind Prop Test Data |
FYI, from a Glasair pilot who is testing the 3 blade Whirl Wind.
Old prop: 74 inch Hartzell constant speed
New prop: 150 series 69 inch Whirlwind Propeller
I have ~60 hours on the prop at this time. Performance numbers show
improvements in all categories.
Climb: much better acceleration and about 150-200 fpm better climb rate
Cruise: 5-7 knots faster at 8,000 feet (Density Altitude)
It is the substantially smoother operation that is really the biggest
benefit.
Even at Idle you'll notice how much smoother and quieter it is over my
74 inch Hartzell.
The weight of the propeller is 30 lbs, significantly lighter than the
Hartzell which
weighed in at 62 lbs. The Whirlwind has a diameter of 69 inches giving
it several inches more
clearance than the old prop.
Feel free to email me with specific questions
charlesgraves1(at)home.com
Chuck
Glasair IFT N944G
Pitts S1S N1766
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: charlesgraves1(at)home.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Whirl Wind Prop
Chuck, there are some RV builders interested in this prop. Do you
have any
data on it yet? How do you like/dislike it? Any comments?
Thanks..
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg intersection fairings |
Yes, spend the money on the Team Rocket fairings. You will be glad you did.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gear leg intersection fairings
Does anyone have any advice to make the job of making intersection
fairings easier. What did you use?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> RC Allen attitude gyros failed 5 times. As short as 74 and as long as
> 290 hours. Have NEW SIGMA TEC to install when the present one dies.
Gary,
This seems like a horrible testimonial for these instruments. Since you
have a vacumn system, I am assuming it is a vacumn unit. I am building an
all electric plane and was going to replace my stolen BF Goodrich unit for a
RC Allen. Do you think that the electric would have just as low a mean time
between failures? At $1,700 an shot, getting only 200 hours is a bit
frightening.
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and DG)
and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also.
Ross wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> > RC Allen attitude gyros failed 5 times. As short as 74 and as long as
> > 290 hours. Have NEW SIGMA TEC to install when the present one dies.
>
> Gary,
>
> This seems like a horrible testimonial for these instruments. Since you
> have a vacumn system, I am assuming it is a vacumn unit. I am building an
> all electric plane and was going to replace my stolen BF Goodrich unit for a
> RC Allen. Do you think that the electric would have just as low a mean time
> between failures? At $1,700 an shot, getting only 200 hours is a bit
> frightening.
>
> Ross
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear leg fairings |
Paul,
My gear leg fairings leave much to be desired as well. How do we contact Team
Rocket.Will be spending time in Cave Creek this winter. Near You?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | aerobatic fuel tank modifications |
Hi to all listers -
I've been working on the left fuel tank for an RV-8. I am modifying this
side for the aerobatic flop tube in the accessories catalog. I misread the
plans and thought that the access plate was supposed to be mounted on the
baffle with the fuel sender, so now I have a big hole in the baffle in the
second bay of the tank. Big deal or little deal? What effect will the
access plate have on the strength of the baffle (I thought it might help
since it is so stiff). Should I leave it or order another baffle? What is
the likelihood of having to gain access to the first bay once the tank is
completed?
Also, I noticed in the plans that there is supposed to be a "trap door" over
the hole in the bottom of the 2nd rib to keep fuel from flowing out of that
bay in left turns. That rib actually has two big holes in it - the second
hole is right in the middle of the aft stiffening ring. This is not
depicted in the plans. Should I create another "trap door" there or cover
the hole?
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
parker(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pulse-Width-Modulated Dimmers |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Can someone recommend a source for a Pulse-Width-Modulated dimmer to use
for my cockpit lighting? I'm interested in it to dim stuff like LED's
and possibly experiment with electroluminescent too. Van's lamp dimmer
is just a variable voltage system, which works fine for incandenscent
lights but not so well for everything else. Theoretically I should be
able to dim both LED's and incandescent lights on the same circuit using
PWM. Kitplanes had a series a while back on how to 'roll your own' PWM
dimmer, but I'm just wondering if there's something already made that I
can purchase?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I have some questions about the Infinity stick grips...
1) Looking at the picture of the grip on Infinity's website, I'm trying
to visualize where your index finger goes when you are holding the stick
and NOT pulling the trigger (PTT or whatever function you choose). Can
you really grip the stick with all your fingers without inadvertently
pushing one of the buttons??
2) For those of you with tandem aircraft, what are you doing with the
back seat stick? Seems overkill to have another Infinity grip back
there.....not sure I'd even want my backseater to have access to all
those buttons. Plus, the back seat stick comes very close to hitting the
front seatback when in the full forward position....adding the Infinity
grip would aggravate this problem without cutting it really short.
So....do I have a cool Infinity grip in the front and leave the back
stick a 'gripless' tube? Or is there some other stick grip available
that sorta matches the Infinity, only smaller and with fewer switches?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Relays for Infinity Stick |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I'm wondering what relays are being used by those of you who have the
Infinity stick grips in your RV's? The Infinity website recommends the
MAC relays for the MAC electric trim system, and references some Radio
Shack P/N's for other relays (for flaps, landing lights, etc.). Van's
also sells some sort of remote flap control mechanism which I assume has
relays in it?? Does anybody have any advice on pros or cons for
different relays that could be used?
I talked to a guy in Chicago who had an RV-6A that used relays in the
trim system, and he had a lot of problems with the relays sticking or
working intermittently (he did not build the aircraft and couldn't tell
me what type of relays were in it). In our avionics labs where I work,
we also fight relay problems. So part of my dilemma with the Infinity
route is my concern over the reliability and extra failure modes
introduced by using relays for elec trim, flaps, landing lights, fuel
pump, etc. I had intended to use panel mounted switches for these
functions that would be rated to handle the current thus keeping things
simpler and theoretically more reliable. But I like the "HOTAS" concept
so I'm thinkin' about Infinity....somebody stop me!!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Free at last! |
CONGRATULATIONS, Paul!!...and thanks for all those posts on the list
particulartly those related to tip-up.
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| final inspection set for next
week!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS Too bad the Las Cruces fly-in is not slated for a few weeks later!
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Date: Monday, October 22, 2001 10:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Free at last!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
Mark,
We have had no problems with accidently pushing any of the switches. Our
layout is as follows: top right > Starter; Center > coolie hat trim elev &
airl; top left > flap toggle; trigger > Comm; left side > wig-wag on-off;
bottom left > txpd ident.
Rear seat: removable with bicycle soft grip (comm botton on right side panel
next to headset jacks.
Good building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (23 hours)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick Grip Questions...
>Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 01:26:08 -0500
>
>
>I have some questions about the Infinity stick grips...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
--- Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and
> DG)
> and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also.
>
> Ross wrote:
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> > > RC Allen attitude gyros failed 5 times. As short as 74 and as
> long as
> > > 290 hours. Have NEW SIGMA TEC to install when the present one
> dies.
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > This seems like a horrible testimonial for these instruments.
> Since you
> > have a vacumn system, I am assuming it is a vacumn unit. I am
> building an
> > all electric plane and was going to replace my stolen BF Goodrich
> unit for a
> > RC Allen. Do you think that the electric would have just as low a
> mean time
> > between failures? At $1,700 an shot, getting only 200 hours is a
> bit
> > frightening.
> >
> > Ross
> > RV6A
> >
AI & DG vacuum.
All of the gyros I have are RC Allen. The attitude gyro is the only one
that has problems. The DG is one of the best DGs that I have seen with
next to no precession. The Needle Ball is an electric RC Allen.
Both RC Allen Attitude Gyros I own have been repaired by the factory
except for the one that is installed in the airplane now. It was done
at the local instrument shop.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relays for Infinity Stick |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/24/2001 08:25:17 AM
I used MAC relays for the trim servos and the relay assembly supplied by
Van's for the flaps. Both systems are working well (with 30+ hours on
them). I installed both systems in the forward stick well. I mounted the
MAC relays on a removable plate and used a couple of connectors so the
system could be easily removed for service/replacement. I looked at other
sources for relays, and determined that most would have required more
effort on my part without offering any apparent benefit.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | czechsix(at)juno.com |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/24/01 02:14 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Relays for Infinity Stick
|
Guys,
I'm wondering what relays are being used by those of you who have the
Infinity stick grips in your RV's? The Infinity website recommends the
MAC relays for the MAC electric trim system, and references some Radio
Shack P/N's for other relays (for flaps, landing lights, etc.). Van's
also sells some sort of remote flap control mechanism which I assume has
relays in it?? Does anybody have any advice on pros or cons for
different relays that could be used?
I talked to a guy in Chicago who had an RV-6A that used relays in the
trim system, and he had a lot of problems with the relays sticking or
working intermittently (he did not build the aircraft and couldn't tell
me what type of relays were in it). In our avionics labs where I work,
we also fight relay problems. So part of my dilemma with the Infinity
route is my concern over the reliability and extra failure modes
introduced by using relays for elec trim, flaps, landing lights, fuel
pump, etc. I had intended to use panel mounted switches for these
functions that would be rated to handle the current thus keeping things
simpler and theoretically more reliable. But I like the "HOTAS" concept
so I'm thinkin' about Infinity....somebody stop me!!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Heh guys, I have both an electric rc allen attitude indicator and a vacum
sigma tek in my RV6A.
I purchased a new sigma tek AI and had nothing but problems with it. It
would simply wander off straight and level after a while. It was rebuilt 3
times and they never fixed it I was desperate so I bought a new sigma tek
again and it has worked fine ever since. I really hated to buy another Sigma
Tek but rc allen was backlogged at the time.
By the way, the electric rc allen has over 750 hours on it and has been
trouble free.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RC Allen Attitude Gyro....was RV-List: High time RVs
>
> --- Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> > On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and
> > DG)
> > and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also.
> >
> > Ross wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> > > > RC Allen attitude gyros failed 5 times. As short as 74 and as
> > long as
> > > > 290 hours. Have NEW SIGMA TEC to install when the present one
> > dies.
> > >
> > > Gary,
> > >
> > > This seems like a horrible testimonial for these instruments.
> > Since you
> > > have a vacumn system, I am assuming it is a vacumn unit. I am
> > building an
> > > all electric plane and was going to replace my stolen BF Goodrich
> > unit for a
> > > RC Allen. Do you think that the electric would have just as low a
> > mean time
> > > between failures? At $1,700 an shot, getting only 200 hours is a
> > bit
> > > frightening.
> > >
> > > Ross
> > > RV6A
> > >
>
> AI & DG vacuum.
>
> All of the gyros I have are RC Allen. The attitude gyro is the only one
> that has problems. The DG is one of the best DGs that I have seen with
> next to no precession. The Needle Ball is an electric RC Allen.
>
> Both RC Allen Attitude Gyros I own have been repaired by the factory
> except for the one that is installed in the airplane now. It was done
> at the local instrument shop.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Gear leg fairings |
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/24/2001 08:59:29 AM
I have not (yet) inadvertently activated the PTT switch. On several
instances, however, I have mixed up flap and trim switches - although I
recognized my mistake before I actually deployed any flap. I expect I will
quickly grow accustomed to all the switches. Many pilots and builders have
critiqued the number of switches on the stick. So far, I like the set-up
and with each flight I become more comfortable with it.
As far as the rear seat is concerned, I just went to the local bike shop
and picked up a handlebar grip that fit the stick diameter. My wife wants
a PTT, but I don't want other back seat passengers to have access to all
the other switches.
Dean PIchon
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | czechsix(at)juno.com |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/24/01 02:26 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick Grip Questions...
|
I have some questions about the Infinity stick grips...
1) Looking at the picture of the grip on Infinity's website, I'm trying
to visualize where your index finger goes when you are holding the stick
and NOT pulling the trigger (PTT or whatever function you choose). Can
you really grip the stick with all your fingers without inadvertently
pushing one of the buttons??
2) For those of you with tandem aircraft, what are you doing with the
back seat stick? Seems overkill to have another Infinity grip back
there.....not sure I'd even want my backseater to have access to all
those buttons. Plus, the back seat stick comes very close to hitting the
front seatback when in the full forward position....adding the Infinity
grip would aggravate this problem without cutting it really short.
So....do I have a cool Infinity grip in the front and leave the back
stick a 'gripless' tube? Or is there some other stick grip available
that sorta matches the Infinity, only smaller and with fewer switches?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
don hughes in tampa has the infinity stick grip on the pilot side and he
bought a very similar grip from Cheif aircraft that just about matches it
without all the switches. the guy that sold him the infinity grip explained
the importance of having all the switches on the grip, as when you just take
off and the engine quits, you want to have the starter on the switch. don and
i laugh about this subject, because he said he would be so frightened, that
he would be pushing, flipping, tripping all the switches at one time, and
probably argar in, with the windsheild wipers and the stero, and turn signals
full blast.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
Bill, I've sent them an e-mail, but do you know if they have gear leg
intersection fairings for the 8A?
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg fairings
>
> http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relays for Infinity Stick |
I built a relay system for the flaps. I used two relays from Radio Shack
wired so that the pilot and passenger could deploy the flaps. Check out
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/flap.htm for a schematic. The relays cost
about $5 each.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Relays for Infinity Stick
Guys,
I'm wondering what relays are being used by those of you who have the
Infinity stick grips in your RV's? The Infinity website recommends the
MAC relays for the MAC electric trim system, and references some Radio
Shack P/N's for other relays (for flaps, landing lights, etc.). Van's
also sells some sort of remote flap control mechanism which I assume has
relays in it?? Does anybody have any advice on pros or cons for
different relays that could be used?
I talked to a guy in Chicago who had an RV-6A that used relays in the
trim system, and he had a lot of problems with the relays sticking or
working intermittently (he did not build the aircraft and couldn't tell
me what type of relays were in it). In our avionics labs where I work,
we also fight relay problems. So part of my dilemma with the Infinity
route is my concern over the reliability and extra failure modes
introduced by using relays for elec trim, flaps, landing lights, fuel
pump, etc. I had intended to use panel mounted switches for these
functions that would be rated to handle the current thus keeping things
simpler and theoretically more reliable. But I like the "HOTAS" concept
so I'm thinkin' about Infinity....somebody stop me!!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
1. There's no problem with flying the plane and inadvertently pushing
buttons or switches. RV's don't require much stick force.
2. I didn't put an Infinity grip in the backseat, just because I didn't
want to spend the money. I did put a neat computer joystick grip on the
rear stick that looks almost as good as the Infinity grip and cost a whole
lot less. Yes - you either have to bend the stick or cut it short to not
interfere with the back of the front seat (-8). this was no problem. RV's,
IMHO, can be easily flown with this shorter stick.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>1) Looking at the picture of the grip on Infinity's website, I'm trying
>to visualize where your index finger goes when you are holding the stick
>and NOT pulling the trigger (PTT or whatever function you choose). Can
>you really grip the stick with all your fingers without inadvertently
>pushing one of the buttons??
>
>2) For those of you with tandem aircraft, what are you doing with the
>back seat stick? Seems overkill to have another Infinity grip back
>there.....not sure I'd even want my backseater to have access to all
>those buttons. Plus, the back seat stick comes very close to hitting the
>front seatback when in the full forward position....adding the Infinity
>grip would aggravate this problem without cutting it really short.
>So....do I have a cool Infinity grip in the front and leave the back
>stick a 'gripless' tube? Or is there some other stick grip available
>that sorta matches the Infinity, only smaller and with fewer switches?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatic fuel tank modifications |
Actually, the hole in the center reinforcing ring is not suppose to be
there. I made the same mistake cut the hole in mine also. You can just
make a patch and cover over the hole with 5 or 6 rivets. You can see
details of my patch and how I made the door that goes over the bottom hole.
http://bmnellis.com/wings_Tanks.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> Also, I noticed in the plans that there is supposed to be a "trap door"
over
> the hole in the bottom of the 2nd rib to keep fuel from flowing out of
that
> bay in left turns. That rib actually has two big holes in it - the second
> hole is right in the middle of the aft stiffening ring. This is not
> depicted in the plans. Should I create another "trap door" there or cover
> the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker Thomas
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> parker(at)iname.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Formation Flying Program |
FORMATION FLYING PROGRAM
Builder's Bookstore has just added the complete Darton Aviation Formation Flying
Program. This package consists of 4 hours of very well done video (mostly
air-air), the written T-34 Association manual, and a pad of formation pre-flight
planners.
The program covers station keeping, inside and outside turns, re-joins,
break-ups, cross unders, takeoffs, landings, and emergency procedures in
echelon, fingertip, and trail positions. All programs are taught to military
standards including hand signal vs. radio communication, and mostly from the
wingman's point of view.
It is available either as a complete set, the booklet only, or for those who
already have the T-34 manual - the videos only at a reduced price.
In the Sport Flying Skills section of Builder's Bookstore.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
800 780 4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relays for Infinity Stick |
I have been using Radio Shack relays for about a year now with no problems
so far.(the ones they recomend)Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@97FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 10/23/01 19:07, Gary A. Sobek at rv6flier(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Solenoid 20103-12 on Sky-Tec starter died at 880 hours. Replaced with
> new starter, flew home, repaired old started and reinstalled.
>
Gary, my list is longer than yours, but I haven't gone through it yet.
Maybe some day, but right now, I am trying to get caught up on my flying.
I just want to add that I have had two solenoid failures, on my sky tec
starter. As I recall the first was around 500 hours and the second was at
350 hours. My guess is that it is the heat. Really don't know, but the
failure mode was that it just got too weak to pull the lever back. It still
had continuity and some strength, just not enough.
The last time, fairly recently, I put in a common ford part, lost the
jumper and wired the solenoid separately. Don't think it will make it last
longer BUT will make it easier to change next time!
Listen listers, it is a fairly cheap part, and can be changed out without
even removing the starter! I would give some thought to carrying a spare.
Personally I haven't ever hand cranked a 180 HP , and don't want to start at
my advanced age.
More later, if I am not flying.
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
RV7 List
Hi
Lights for night flying, has anyone come up with cheaper way then paying
$700-$900 for nav light that have $70 worth of electronic in them?
Scott Trask
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/24/2001 12:50:28 PM
Aeroflash makes an inexpensive nav/ strobe combo for kitplanes and
homebuilt a/c that's available through Superflite. Contact Scott Lueder
@800-323-0611 and he'll fix you up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
You can go with the non-PMA'd stuff from Aeroflash and save a little money.
Jim Weir has also written articles on how to "roll your own" strobe systems
if you want to try that route.
http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/magazine/index.html
You could then build your own strobe system for $50 in parts then purchase
$180 worth of red/green nav lights and be on your way for less than $200.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott and Pam Trask" <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
Subject: RV6-List: Lights
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Scott and Pam Trask
>
> Hi
> Lights for night flying, has anyone come up with cheaper way then paying
> $700-$900 for nav light that have $70 worth of electronic in them?
> Scott Trask
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Since we're on the subject, has anybody got any actual experience with
strobe power supplies other than Whelen when using Whelen strobes? Any
comments? ie Nova or others?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument plastic connectors |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I think they are standard tapered pipe threads. I think 1/8ths.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
> Could someone help me with what connectors I have to get. The
> plastic ones
> that screw into the Alt Airspeed and Vsi. I cant seem to find which
> ones to
> order.
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Military Insignia... |
Can't remember who asked about his, but check out this site...
http://www.onemileup.com/federalclipart.asp
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | 45 degree scat tube flange |
Went I built my 6A, a neighbor at the time gave me a 45 degree 2" scat tube flange
which I used for routing duct for the heater box.
This sure fits nicely and allows a much neater routing of the air duct. I'd like
to
add a couple more of these under my cowl but can't find who makes or sells them.
Spruce, Wicks, or Vans never heard of them. Anybody have any ideas?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
In a message dated 10/23/01 11:32:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and DG)
and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also. >>
Jerry, are your RC Allens hard mounted in your panel or in a vibration
isolation panel?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grip Questions... |
>
>2) For those of you with tandem aircraft, what are you doing with the
>back seat stick? Seems overkill to have another Infinity grip back
>there.....not sure I'd even want my backseater to have access to all
>those buttons. Plus, the back seat stick comes very close to hitting the
>front seatback when in the full forward position....adding the Infinity
>grip would aggravate this problem without cutting it really short.
>So....do I have a cool Infinity grip in the front and leave the back
>stick a 'gripless' tube? Or is there some other stick grip available
>that sorta matches the Infinity, only smaller and with fewer switches?
>
Mark,
I installed a couple of broomstick holder clips (available at Walmart, Home
Depot, etc) on the right side of the passenger seatback. During normal solo
operations, the rear stick is not installed. When my back seater wants to
fly, I simply have him/her pull the stick out of the clips and insert it
into the control column socket. The handle is a rubber bicycle grip, just
like my front stick grip.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/24/2001 02:06:30 PM
You can use the Aeroflash power supplies IF, you have a homebuilt aircraft.
Since the Whelen and Aeroflash strobe systems are STC'd for various
airframes, you'd be out of compliance, but no problem with the Aeroflash
other than they mount in the wing tips.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Whelen also makes strobes for police and fire vehicles.
Dave Berryhill
>
>
>You can use the Aeroflash power supplies IF, you have a homebuilt aircraft.
>Since the Whelen and Aeroflash strobe systems are STC'd for various
>airframes, you'd be out of compliance, but no problem with the Aeroflash
>other than they mount in the wing tips.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/24/2001 02:40:57 PM
Maybe you can use lighting from local sources , but the FAA does spell out
in AC43-13 lighting requirements in regard to brightness and joule rating-
no sense in getting grounded on some ramp inspection, or because someone
else squawks they can't see you. You can't put a price on safety.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Please tell....what is the best way to mount?
Barry Pote
RV9a fuselage
>
> Jerry, are your RC Allens hard mounted in your panel or in a vibration
> isolation panel?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg intersection fairings |
> Speaking of fairings, has anyone tried Team Rockets wheel pants on a 6?
> Did they require a lot of fit and finish work? The pants from Van's are
> crude compared to what I have seen provided on plastic airplanes.
>
>
> Don Mack
I used them and they are very good. They are the best fiberglass work I
have seen to date. You use Van's mounting hardware. I re-wrote the Team
Rocket wheel pants installation guide for the 6 while I was at it. I also
made a new mold for the lower left gear leg intersection fairing and just
recieved the first one from Mark F at Team Rocket. I found (as other had
before me) that the angle of the old one was a bit off.
Ross Mickey
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
> On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and DG)
> and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also.
I feel better now. In actuality, I am going to buy a Dynon EFIS and perhaps
use the RC Allen AI as a backup.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lwfeatherston(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Infinity Stick Grips Ad Infinitum! |
Yo Scott: I don't know how old you are, but that is the critical factor in
all this HOTAS, etc. conversation. If you are under 30 you may want all the
control in the Western Hemisphere under your fingertips. Good on you, if
you do! Having
flown old, OLD military fighters with guns, trim, bombs, and nosewheel
stearing all on the stickgrip, and the new fangled airliners with just PTT
and autopilot kill switches on the stick/control wheel, I am inclined to say
less is more. There is an old joke about the new
fangled toilet with buttons for WW, WA, and ATP, if you don't remember e-note
me. (iflyrocket@aol,com). You just can't be too careful out there. Best
'o Luck from the OLD F@#%. Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Flap switch location |
For those so inclined, think through why you want to put the flap switch on
the control stick. Cruise speeds are twice the flap speed, and it is
surprisingly easy to inadvertently push one of those buttons on the top of
the stick when reaching around the cabin for stuff, etc.. I suggest putting
it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice per
flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you may
want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
complicated. In my plane, the trim speed is coincidentally matched with the
flap speed, so both are moving simultaneously (I apply full flaps all at
once in the pattern). Just my opinion...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 22 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 10/23/01 11:32:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> << RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
>
> On the other hand I have over 700hrs on my RC Allens (Attitude and DG)
> and love them, this includes lots of upside down time also. >>
>
> Jerry, are your RC Allens hard mounted in your panel or in a vibration
> isolation panel?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
Harry they are hard mounted.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'd like to do the same, using LEDs...but don't have the expertise. Anyone
else already working on it?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/magazine/index.html
>
> You could then build your own strobe system for $50 in parts
> then purchase
> $180 worth of red/green nav lights and be on your way for less than $200.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
where can you purchase a boot for the control stick? or do you have to make
it your self?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Wednesday, October 24, 2001, at 08:07 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I'd like to do the same, using LEDs...but don't have the expertise.
> Anyone
> else already working on it?
> snip
Me too, although I've been putting it off since LED prices seem to be
falling as fast as hard drive prices.
Look at www.ledtronics.com. It appears that it can be done fairly
reasonably, with multi-LED lamps configured for 12 volt automotive
systems. They can be custom ordered with 12" leads attached, and with
wide-angle LEDs.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: boot for stick |
PEP BOYS, DISCOUNT AUTO STORES , NAPA any of those stores sell boots for
stick shifts. made from rubber or vynle, or leather.
i bought rubber ones and will use them for the aileron tube out the side of
the fuse to keep wind out. i bought leather ones for my sticks. they even
come with a chrome ring with mounting screws. a set will cost about 8 dollars.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Any RV-4's flying with a 70" prop?? |
I have a 72" Warnke "toothpick" style prop. There is plenty of clearance
for any of the flying I do. One of the things I did was to put the prop in
a vertical orientation and lift the tailwheel to see what the attitude would
be for a propstrike to be possible. Add in a little gear squat and I had a
rough idea.
With that said, my question is: Why do you want a 72 inch prop?? That is
the real issue. Recently a friend of mine had a problem with his prop while
at another airport about 15 miles from our home airport. I loaned him my
Warnke prop. Because of this we were able to do a fairly direct, TOTALLY
unscientific comparison. What he said was that overall the prop accelerated
harder than his shorter prop, but he lost about 10 mph in top end. (I have
always felt my Rv pulled harder than most comparable 150 hp RVs, but its top
end has always been a bit slow)
This is consistent with the tradeoff in any prop selection, even constant
speed. All else being equal, a longer prop produces greater static thrust
(acceleration on takeoff), but has more drag (less effiiciency) at cruise.
My Warnke is the most beautiful wooden prop I have ever laid eyes on, is
EXCEEDINGLY smooth and runs fast enough for me. But if I were buying a new
prop, I'd gladly give up some of that initial acceleration for 10 more mph,
better fuel economy and less strain on the engine for a given speed.
Don Mei
RV-4 0-320
3B9 - Chester, CT
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/22/2001 6:11:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane
>
> I remember hearing something about another guy that makes exhaust for
> RV's... Used to work for Vetterman of something... Anybody have this
> info?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill
>
>
HI COUNTRY RV EXAUST
Larry Veadermam....605-745-5932
9 WatersEdge
Hot Springs, SD 57747
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: fairings |
Dan,
I have upper and lower fairings for the -4. See my web site at
fairings-etc.com
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Re: 809 leading edge ribs |
Gerald,
You have a legitimate concern. To my mind, an even greater concern is;
how can the bucker see what he's doing while setting the rivets on the
inner ribs? This is a problem in the RV-7, RV-8 & RV-9A I solved this
by fabricating a large "Tim Allen" bucking bar. This bar weighs 3 pounds
and has 3/16" holes drilled in it on one end. These 3 holes are there to
insert your 1/8" universal (Avery #1608) squeezer set in. (the ones you
use in your Avery squeezer & C tool)
I inserted the rivets from the front (top as viewed in the jig) to the
rear of the wing cord. This is opposite of how Van has you set these
rivets. I placed the "Tim Allen" bucking bar with the 1/8" universal set
on top of the rivet. I then pressed down on the bucking bar. Fellow RV
builder Eric Hensen set the shop heads from below (the rear) using the
Avery back riveting set (part # 4580) This method has 4 advantages as I
see it.
#1)This method all but eliminates the chance (more likely certainty) of
"tipping" the shop head of the rivets being set on the inner ribs. Using
Van's method, the bucker can not see either the tail of the rivet or the
surface of the bucking bar being held against it. He is trying to hold
the bucking bar at almost arm's length to set the 2 center ribs. Many
early RV-8 builders complained of it being extremely difficult to set
these rivets without "tipping" them.
#2) Since you back rivet these rivets, the person using the gun can
actually watch the shop head being formed. This makes it much easier to
get excellent results.
#3)This method puts the manufactured head against the leading edge rib
flange. Van's method puts the shop head here where it is very hard to
see (read impossible) while setting the rivet.
#4)Place some duct tape on the web of the main rib while back riveting
these rivets. This will prevent any damage if the back rivet set slips.
Since making this tool (about half an hour with a band saw and drill
press) I've found numerous other areas to use it on my 8A. It is
basically a piece of cold rolled steel 3" X 3" X 5" with 3 holes to
insert your universal rivet sets in. I placed the holes so that I could
move the rivet set around. This makes it easier to use the tool to set
the end rivets on the F-809 ribs. I did cut a slight notch in the bar so
that it would clear the "flange" around the lightening holes in the
ribs. This notch allows me to hold the bar perfectly parallel to the rib
web while using it.
I could bring the bar home tomorrow, scan it and email you the scanned
images if you'd like. Feel free to ask questions if I have been less
than clear.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
PS I'll be up in the Buffalo, NY area from 10/27 to 11/1 Anyone in the
area working on an RV? Fran M. how is your project going?
> --- In rv8list@y..., Gerald Clabots wrote:
> > I'm getting ready to rivet the leading edge to the spar but my
> offset
> > rivet set is bumping up against the main ribs.
> > I'm thinking of grinding down the rivet set on one side to allow
> the cup
> > of the set to fit properly on the rivet head.
> > My question is this what others have done or is there a special
> rivet
> > set available.
> > Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Cowl Installation |
Anyone out there have some good pix and description of Van's cowl
installation on an -8A or -8?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap switch location |
Another point of view suggests that, although the flap switch isn't used often,
it is used at a critical time, especially when flying an instrument approach
procedure when one wants one's hands on the stick and throttle, not searching
around the instrument panel for a flap switch. Just a thought.
On the other hand, on a recent trip from SBP to SMO, my passenger inadvertently
flipped his passenger stick's flap switch into the "flaps up" position, where it
remained throughout the flight. A better solution for me might have been to
have a flap switch on my stick grip only.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> For those so inclined, think through why you want to put the flap switch on
> the control stick. Cruise speeds are twice the flap speed, and it is
> surprisingly easy to inadvertently push one of those buttons on the top of
> the stick when reaching around the cabin for stuff, etc.. I suggest putting
> it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice per
> flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you may
> want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
> complicated. In my plane, the trim speed is coincidentally matched with the
> flap speed, so both are moving simultaneously (I apply full flaps all at
> once in the pattern). Just my opinion...
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 22 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Military Insignia... |
All,
Suggest you contact Phil Fox of Woodway Signs - tel: (281) 461-4600.
He did all our decals for the Blue Angels and they came out great and were
reasonably priced. He also did CAD drawings for our reveiw and worked with
us on the sizing.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (23 hours)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Rv-List , "Rv8list@Egroups"
>
>Subject: RV-List: Military Insignia...
>Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:24:08 -0600
>
>
>Can't remember who asked about his, but check out this site...
>
>http://www.onemileup.com/federalclipart.asp
>
>-Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Sam,
How about 1853 Hrs? No real problems outside the chipped paint. I have,
over the course of the last couple of years, added additional rivets in the
belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
after about 1200 Hrs.
Otherwise, only chipped paint....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1753 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: High time RVs
Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have experienced
similar results.
However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your
RV.
Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs
(or
RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or service
issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your
plane.
Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the
hours
accumulate?
Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low"
time
on our planes. :-)
Thanks in advance for your reply,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Flap switch location |
I put mine in between the throttle and the carb heat control. The carb heat
control is located to the left of the throttle by about 5".
-Glenn Gordon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John B. Abell
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap switch location
Another point of view suggests that, although the flap switch isn't used
often,
it is used at a critical time, especially when flying an instrument approach
procedure when one wants one's hands on the stick and throttle, not
searching
around the instrument panel for a flap switch. Just a thought.
On the other hand, on a recent trip from SBP to SMO, my passenger
inadvertently
flipped his passenger stick's flap switch into the "flaps up" position,
where it
remained throughout the flight. A better solution for me might have been to
have a flap switch on my stick grip only.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> For those so inclined, think through why you want to put the flap switch
on
> the control stick. Cruise speeds are twice the flap speed, and it is
> surprisingly easy to inadvertently push one of those buttons on the top of
> the stick when reaching around the cabin for stuff, etc.. I suggest
putting
> it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice
per
> flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you may
> want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
> complicated. In my plane, the trim speed is coincidentally matched with
the
> flap speed, so both are moving simultaneously (I apply full flaps all at
> once in the pattern). Just my opinion...
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 22 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flap switch location, my reason |
I've got my flap switch right on top of my Infinity stick grip which makes
it very easy to add/retract flaps without moving anything more than my
thumb. More importantly, when landing on grass, I can dump all my flaps
beginning as soon as the wheels touch the runway, acting like poor mans auto
deployed spoilers. This makes the plane "stick" to the ground quicker,
giving better steering and braking effectiveness.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap switch location |
Some Douglas A-26's that were converted to fire tankers have a flap switch
installed on the throttle. (talk about a high workload environment) It is
very intuitive. I am not big on gadgets, but this was a very nice feature in
a pretty Hot airplane. Especially handy during a go-around. Homebuilt
airplanes are an expression of the builder, but for me, PTT, Trim, Smoke,
Guns of course ;-) and maybe Flaps would be as far as I would go on the
stick or throttle.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >
Snip>
I suggest putting
> > it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice
per
> > flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you
may
> > want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
> > complicated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: boot for stick |
DJ (at Cleaveland) supplied boots with my seats and interior kit. So, she
definitely makes them and would probably make/sell these separately. She
does good quality work.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: boot for stick
>
> where can you purchase a boot for the control stick? or do you have to
make
> it your self?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Installation |
Bill . . . visit some time and I can walk you through the Gary Zilik method
. . . which produces great results. We did the firewall edge of the top and
got it to fit nicely (even, uniform gap just wide enough for the final paint
build-up). Then the firewall edge of the bottom. Once the firewall edges
are perfect, we then started fitting/trimming the top and bottom side edges
of the cowl. It is not a fast process . . . the cowl must have been put on
and removed thirty times.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Installation
>
> Anyone out there have some good pix and description of Van's cowl
> installation on an -8A or -8?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Please forgive my ignorance.
What is meant by the phrase, "smoking rivets"?
Thanks.
Robert
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
> <>
> I have, over the course of the last couple of years, added additional rivets
in the
> belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
> others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
> after about 1200 Hrs.
> Otherwise, only chipped paint....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
>
To you legal experts;
Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging time
in actual
IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LAANGEL7(at)aol.com |
please take me off your mailing list,i was subcribed by mistake. thank
you,,,,laangel7(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
yes. But actual IMC is a lot different than any simulated I've experienced.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Legal question
>Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:09:27 -0600
>
>
>
> >
>
>To you legal experts;
>
>Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging
>time in actual
>IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
The RV6A I bought early last year has a rubber stick shift boot on the
pilots stick. I found that the rubber bellows bunched up and didn't give me
full throw
of the stick left to right. I'd go with some thin material with no bellows.
It looked like a good idea, and the previous owner gave me a kit for the
passenger side,
but I will change out to something less thick.
By the way, Becki Orndorff sells the stick boots.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [SMTP:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 6:29 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: boot for stick
>
>
> PEP BOYS, DISCOUNT AUTO STORES , NAPA any of those stores sell boots for
> stick shifts. made from rubber or vynle, or leather.
> i bought rubber ones and will use them for the aileron tube out the side
> of
> the fuse to keep wind out. i bought leather ones for my sticks. they even
> come with a chrome ring with mounting screws. a set will cost about 8
> dollars.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
If a non-legal expert answer counts, unfortunately the answer is yes.
Rob Acker (RV-6)
>
> To you legal experts;
>
> Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever
> logging time in actual IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
>
> Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Robert,
When a rivet is caused to become loose it will wear in its hole this
produces aluminum oxide dust that trails aft in the airstream and leaves a
"smoke" trail on the surface behind the rivet.
Smoking rivets can be indicators that the area where they are showing has
been under designed, over stressed, or that the building or riveting process
was not carried out correctly.
Smoke trails can indicate wear taking place at hinges, where panels overlap,
or covers and any other parts that are meant to be held tight while in
operation.
In some areas on some aircraft it is normal for "smoke" to be present in
areas such as cowling joints etc.
Any and all "smoke" indicators should always be monitored immediately after
flights and during pre-flight checks.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: High time RVs
>
> Please forgive my ignorance.
> What is meant by the phrase, "smoking rivets"?
> Thanks.
> Robert
>
>
> "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
>
> > <>
> > I have, over the course of the last couple of years, added additional
rivets in the
> > belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
> > others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
> > after about 1200 Hrs.
> > Otherwise, only chipped paint....
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
Andy,
The answer to both of your questions is "yes". No IMC time is required to
get your Instrument ticket.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Legal question
>Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:09:27 -0600
>
>
>
> >
>
>To you legal experts;
>
>Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging
>time in actual
>IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Flap switch location |
My flap switch is located on a subpanel, just ahead of the throttle in my
RV-4. I can reach it without taking my hand off the throttle. Works for
me.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug's Mail [mailto:dougr(at)petroblend.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap switch location
Some Douglas A-26's that were converted to fire tankers have a flap switch
installed on the throttle. (talk about a high workload environment) It is
very intuitive. I am not big on gadgets, but this was a very nice feature in
a pretty Hot airplane. Especially handy during a go-around. Homebuilt
airplanes are an expression of the builder, but for me, PTT, Trim, Smoke,
Guns of course ;-) and maybe Flaps would be as far as I would go on the
stick or throttle.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >
Snip>
I suggest putting
> > it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice
per
> > flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you
may
> > want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
> > complicated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
absolutely.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Builder's
Bookstore
Subject: RV-List: Legal question
>
To you legal experts;
Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging
time in actual
IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
Yes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Legal question
>
To you legal experts;
Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging
time in actual
IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
A smoking rivet is a rivet that is loose. It gets it's name because it
usually leaves a black trail behind it, that looks like a smoke trail.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: High time RVs
Please forgive my ignorance.
What is meant by the phrase, "smoking rivets"?
Thanks.
Robert
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
> <>
> I have, over the course of the last couple of years, added additional
rivets in the
> belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
> others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
> after about 1200 Hrs.
> Otherwise, only chipped paint....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
Yes, it's legal. Most instructors in the Southwest & Rocky Mountains are
afraid to go into clouds with a student.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Builder's
Bookstore
Subject: RV-List: Legal question
>
To you legal experts;
Is it possible and legal to earn an instrument rating without ever logging
time in actual
IMC, but only under a hood and in simulators?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Re: 809 leading edge ribs |
>
>Gerald,
> You have a legitimate concern. To my mind, an even greater concern is;
>how can the bucker see what he's doing while setting the rivets on the
>inner ribs? This is a problem in the RV-7, RV-8 & RV-9A I solved this
>by fabricating a large "Tim Allen" bucking bar. This bar weighs 3 pounds
>and has 3/16" holes drilled in it on one end. These 3 holes are there to
>insert your 1/8" universal (Avery #1608) squeezer set in. (the ones you
>use in your Avery squeezer & C tool)
It sounds like a tool worthy of a photo. Any chance you could post a photo
or sketch somewhere?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | NEW Matronics Email List Feature! Browse Current List |
Messages!
Dear Listers,
I have just finished building an all new Email List Web Browsing feature
for the Matronics Email Lists. The new system allows you to use your web
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indexes display all of the current List messages sorted by Subject, Author,
Date, or Thread. Clicking on the URL links on these index pages will open
another "Viewing Window" where the messages will be displayed.
The format of the index pages and message viewing window are consistent
with the existing Matronics Archive Search Engine and should be familiar to
everyone. The messages available on this new List Browsing Feature span
the previous 7 days of email for the given List. Each day the oldest day's
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Please have a look at the new Utility and let me know what you think! For
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I hope you will find the new system useful and also find it to be a handy
companion to the Archive Search Engine.
The new Email Browsing Utility can be found at the following URL:
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From here, you can select any of the available Email Lists.
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Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
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Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
Yes - See below from 61.65
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
CFII
(d) Aeronautical experience. A person who applies for an instrument rating must
have logged the following:
(1) At least 50 hours of cross-country flight time as pilot in command, of which
at least 10 hours must be in airplanes for an instrument--airplane rating; and
(2) A total of 40 hours of actual or simulated instrument time on the areas of
operation of this section, to include--
(i) At least 15 hours of instrument flight training from an authorized instructor
in the aircraft category for which the instrument rating is sought;
(ii) At least 3 hours of instrument training that is appropriate to the instrument
rating sought from an authorized instructor in preparation for the practical
test within the 60 days preceding the date of the test;
(iii) For an instrument--airplane rating, instrument training on cross- country
flight procedures specific to airplanes that includes at least one cross-country
flight in an airplane that is performed under IFR, and consists of--
(A) A distance of at least 250 nautical miles along airways or ATC-directed routing;
(B) An instrument approach at each airport; and
(C) Three different kinds of approaches with the use of navigation systems;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap switch location |
This is why we want Infinity to get working on their throttle quadrant... 8-)
Then we can have flaps and PTT on the Throttle, Trim, Trim override, XPDR
Ident, Starter, and guns (of course) on the Stick... This matches the military
setup the closest, as far as I can tell. It also makes it easy to apply flaps,
trim, power changes, and yet still have a finger left over to take care of the
stalled engine.
Of course, whether you use that finger to re-start it, or to give it one final
gesture before you auger in, is entirely up to you...
-RB4
-rv7 "@" b4.ca
-RV7 Empennage
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> The flaps only have to be accessed once or twice per
> flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you may
> want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would be
> complicated. In my plane, the trim speed is coincidentally matched with the
> flap speed, so both are moving simultaneously (I apply full flaps all at
> once in the pattern). Just my opinion...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap switch location |
I'm not in the air yet, but I'm installing a throttle grip from a F-86 Sabre
which has a three-position sliding switch on the top surface which falls
comfortably under the thumb yet is protected from inadvertent actuation by
raised fences or rails on either side. You can rest your thumb there
without fear of inadvertent switch movement as it takes both a deliberate
press down to get the bottom of the thumb below the level of the rails and
then a half-inch movement fore or aft from the neutral position.It's
labelled speedbrake extend and retract but will be used for the flaps. The
other "mic" button will be used for a PTT but I haven't decided what to do
with the gunsight caging button yet....
This grip extends up through the lefthand armrest and drives a slave cable
around to a beautiful, three-lever centre quadrant mounted to the bottom of
the instrument panel in the centre so both people get right-hand on stick,
left-hand on throttle. May have to make a mold for another grip for the
centre throttle- it just feels so right. Time will tell whether or not the
left-hand throttle is too far back and should be in front of the F-604
bulkhead.
Could try to post a picture if anyone's interested.
BTW, I feel it's important to make one of the buttons on the control column
stick grip a trim-interrupt or cutout. I know of a couple of people who
wanted electric pitch trim but didn't because there was no provision for
containing a runaway. I realize that with a tab vs. a trimmable horizontal
stabilizer the stick forces are not as high with a runaway but it seems like
an easy thing to wire up.
Scott in Vancouver
RV-6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap switch location
>
> Some Douglas A-26's that were converted to fire tankers have a flap switch
> installed on the throttle. (talk about a high workload environment) It is
> very intuitive. I am not big on gadgets, but this was a very nice feature
in
> a pretty Hot airplane. Especially handy during a go-around. Homebuilt
> airplanes are an expression of the builder, but for me, PTT, Trim, Smoke,
> Guns of course ;-) and maybe Flaps would be as far as I would go on the
> stick or throttle.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> > Alex Peterson wrote:
> >
> > >
> Snip>
> I suggest putting
> > > it near the throttle. The flaps only have to be accessed once or
twice
> per
> > > flight. One more thing to consider is that during flap movement, you
> may
> > > want to trim the elevator, and if that is also on the stick it would
be
> > > complicated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap switch location |
Thank you, Scott and Doug. Since I started this project, it has seemed to
me that the right place for MY flap switch would be on the end of the
throttle, where the speedbrake switch might otherwise be. I think I
remember the press-to-talk switch also being on the throttle in the T-37 and
T-38.
I would love to see a picture, but I don't think you can't post them to the
RV list.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finish kit on order
Seattle
>
> I'm not in the air yet, but I'm installing a throttle grip from a F-86
Sabre
> which has a three-position sliding switch on the top surface which falls
> comfortably under the thumb yet is protected from inadvertent actuation by
> raised fences or rails on either side. You can rest your thumb there
> without fear of inadvertent switch movement as it takes both a deliberate
> press down to get the bottom of the thumb below the level of the rails and
> then a half-inch movement fore or aft from the neutral position.It's
> labelled speedbrake extend and retract but will be used for the flaps. The
> other "mic" button will be used for a PTT but I haven't decided what to >
From: "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap switch location
>
>
> >
> > Some Douglas A-26's that were converted to fire tankers have a flap
switch
> > installed on the throttle. (talk about a high workload environment) It
is
> > very intuitive. I am not big on gadgets, but this was a very nice
feature
> in
> > a pretty Hot airplane. Especially handy during a go-around. Homebuilt
> > airplanes are an expression of the builder, but for me, PTT, Trim,
Smoke,
> > Guns of course ;-) and maybe Flaps would be as far as I would go on the
> > stick or throttle.
> >
> > Tailwinds,
> > Doug Rozendaal
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
i just went through this with my instrument instructor last night. he wanted
me to stay away from clouds while trainning under the hood. i told him in
order for me to experience the real thing, i thought we should go into IMC
conditions and let me get used to the turbulance and zero visibility. we had
a IFR flight plan filed and i didn't see any reason not to. i don't want to
get stuck one day in heavy turbulance, zero visibility, and find out i can't
handle it. thats what an instructor is there for. i want real life, real
weather, the worst case scenario with my instructor at my side.
just my 2 cents
scott
tampa
IFR equiped and getting the training that may save my butt one day
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Fred,
Has my memory completely flipped? I was thinking your plane was the one
that lost the nosegear!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: RV-List: High time RVs
>
> Sam,
>
> How about 1853 Hrs? No real problems outside the chipped paint. I have,
> over the course of the last couple of years, added additional rivets in
the
> belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
> others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
> after about 1200 Hrs.
> Otherwise, only chipped paint....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV (1753 hrs/8 Yrs)
> E. Windsor, CT 06088
> WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
> Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
> ____
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> Subject: RV-List: High time RVs
>
>
> Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have
experienced
> similar results.
>
> However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your
> RV.
> Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs
> (or
> RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or
service
> issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your
> plane.
> Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the
> hours
> accumulate?
>
> Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low"
> time
> on our planes. :-)
>
> Thanks in advance for your reply,
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
yes, but the clouds were small and no turb. he promised me to find some
crappy weather and he would take me in.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> i just went through this with my instrument instructor last night. he wanted
> me to stay away from clouds
My second instrument lesson was in actual IMC. We filed ifr to the
practice area, were in the clouds 500' off the ground. Got vectors to the
practice area and spent an hour manouvering around there and actually did
stalls in the clouds. When the hour was over, and my shirt was ringing
wet, we got vectors back to EVV and did an ils approach. Loved every
minute of that hour.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High time RVs |
Thanks for the info Jim.
Robert
jim jewell wrote:
>
>Robert,
>
>When a rivet is caused to become loose it will wear in its hole this
>produces aluminum oxide dust that trails aft in the airstream and leaves a
>"smoke" trail on the surface behind the rivet.
>Smoking rivets can be indicators that the area where they are showing has
>been under designed, over stressed, or that the building or riveting process
>was not carried out correctly.
>Smoke trails can indicate wear taking place at hinges, where panels overlap,
>or covers and any other parts that are meant to be held tight while in
>operation.
>In some areas on some aircraft it is normal for "smoke" to be present in
>areas such as cowling joints etc.
>Any and all "smoke" indicators should always be monitored immediately after
>flights and during pre-flight checks.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: High time RVs
>
>
>>
>>Please forgive my ignorance.
>>What is meant by the phrase, "smoking rivets"?
>>Thanks.
>>Robert
>>
>>
>>"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
>>
>>>
>
>
>>><>
>>>I have, over the course of the last couple of years, added additional
>>>
>rivets in the
>
>>>belly area under the main spare where the skins overlap., and also some
>>>others at the base of the firewall. These areas showed "smoking rivets"
>>>after about 1200 Hrs.
>>> Otherwise, only chipped paint....
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
If you get a connector end coupling--brass, 1/8"--remove the mesh
reservoir cap and install the connector--then find a ball bearing from
your junk drawer that just seats in the hole in the top of the
coupling--now find a small brass "post" (sawed off screw, bolt, etc.)
and place inside the coupling and cut to support the ball bearing so it
lays about 1/16" under the inside of the top hole.
When you fly inverted or experience negative g's, the ball bearing will
"rise" to block the hole in the coupling and no fluid can escape,
otherwise it breathes just like the regular fitting. It's basically
just like the control ball valve in the Christen inverted oil system.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> I've observed the exact same phenomena. My sender block is located
> midway up on the pilots side on the firewall and there were a few small
> drip leaks in the first few hours. I could never find any oil streamed
> down the surface of the firewall but it always ended up on the lower
> hinge and streaked down the belly from there.
>
> I haven't had to refill my brake reservoir yet, but there's some red
> gunk around the sintered bronze fitting...so I know it leaks at least a
> little.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 231 hours
>
> >
> >I recently filled my brake fluid reservoir and after flying in fairly
> >turbulent conditions today I noticed what seems to be red brake fluid
> >drips/runs on the bottom of the fuselage on the left side below the
> >reservoir location. I can't see any on the firewall (the reservoir is
> >located high on the engine side of the firewall) but it starts showing
> up at
> >the hinge line of the cowling/fuselage junction.
> >
> >I wonder: Can/will turbulent conditions cause a brake fluid reservoir
> to
> >spill or burp out fluid? The top of the reservoir is - as you probably
> >know - just a mesh fitting that allows the thing to "breathe" but I
> suspect
> >it also allows it to spill fluid if too full.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: boot for stick |
Becky Orndorff incorporates the boot in her seat cushion design...and
might make a custom boot for you.
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> where can you purchase a boot for the control stick? or do you have to make
> it your self?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
I just purchased a plane without any wing walk that is finished in
Aerothane and wanted to add it. Aircraft lists several types:
1. Clear Slip Resistant
2. Non-Skid Wing Walk Tape
3. 3M Safety Walk Sheet
4. MAC Wing Walk
Any one have any experience with these??
________________________________________________________________________________
i think the mac is the same one vans sells. 18 dollars per side, and it has
"RV6A" cut into mine.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
Andy,
I got my instrument ticket in the 70's and have been using it regularly
since. I got very little actual IFR before getting the ticket, and I'm
still here, but I worked into it kind of gradually. That said, it's
certainly best to go out with an instructor on your first actual IMC
outings.
If a CFII isn't an option, a good place to start is a nice, stable stratus
layer with high bases. Summertime cu, low ceilings and the like come later
on. Ice comes way later on, like maybe never, if you're lucky. Obviously
big-league turbulence like you describe are a rotten way to start. Of
course, one can get an approximation (sometimes way too good an
approximation!) on a moonless night over the countryside, especially with
haze. Think John Kennedy, Jr.
A great book that treats this issue is "Weather Flying" by Robert Buck. See
Chapter 17, "Teaching Yourself to Fly Weather." In it he talks about the
types of weather one does and doesn't want to tackle at various stages in
your instrument career.
Rick McCraw
A-36 Bonanza, RV builder's agreement notarized but not sent in yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul S" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
There seems to be quite a bit of misinformation about what strobe lights are
"legal" for our planes. Whelen lights are the only strobes I have found that
emit 400 candle power. The Aero Flash units do not meet this FAA requirement
for output. People say, "hey it's Experimental and doesn't need to meet part
23." This is true, however part 91 sets the rules as the pilot for VFR night
flight. Part 91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anti collision light(s). No
exemptions for experimentals. Typically the FAA will classify approved as
meeting the standards of part 23. Yes, the AeroFlash units are many hundreds
of dollars less, however I consider it cheap insurance that the other guy
will see me, Whelen strobes can easily be seen during the day !
Paul Stratman RV6A Wiring
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
This may be true---but I haven't seen any strobe system that wasn't more
visible than my simple marker lights and beacon on my 172 and it was legal.
Greg
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: boot for stick |
Becky made separate ones for Casper, they look great, work great and were not
expensive. Plus she did a good match on the color. Nice lady to deal with also.
Garry "Casper"
Will Cretsinger wrote:
>
> Becky Orndorff incorporates the boot in her seat cushion design...and
> might make a custom boot for you.
>
> DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > where can you purchase a boot for the control stick? or do you have to make
> > it your self?
> >
> > thank you
> > dan carley
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Don't use the clear it will discolor over time, the Mac stuff I used is
black and seems to work well, but it does shrink a little. The 3M is
good, but it's thicker and will probably cost you 10 miles an hour.
Garry "Casper"
b green wrote:
>
> I just purchased a plane without any wing walk that is finished in
> Aerothane and wanted to add it. Aircraft lists several types:
>
> 1. Clear Slip Resistant
>
> 2. Non-Skid Wing Walk Tape
>
> 3. 3M Safety Walk Sheet
>
> 4. MAC Wing Walk
>
> Any one have any experience with these??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/25/2001 5:00:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvinfo(at)juno.com writes:
> MAC Wing Walk
>
This stuff in my opinion rules for wing walk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A couple more Infinity questions.... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
1) If I use one of the ON-OFF pushbuttons on the Infinity grip for my
fuel pump, is it easy to tell by feel or by looking at the button
position whether it's ON or OFF? If not, it seems that I would have to
add further complexity by putting an LED or some sort of fuel pump status
indicator on the panel...
2) For future growth, I may add a Navaid or S-Tec autopilot to my RV.
What kind of switch would I want on the grip for the "autopilot
disconnect" function? ON-OFF? Momentary N.C. or N.O.?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful input.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | It was not a dark and stormy night... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I posted the following to the aeroelectric list, but thought I'd
copy it to the RV list to see if any of you have had a similar experience
or any input one way or the other...
--Mark Navratil
Bob,
I have an experience to relate and questions about the possible
implications. I like a lot of things about your recommended fuseblocks
for circuit protection. But.....
It was not a dark and stormy night, it was a bright, sunshiny day in E.
Texas. I was flying with a friend in a C172 to Shreveport, LA to have
some avionics work done (ironically, as it would turn out). We were
flying along about 2000' agl enjoying ourselves when acrid smoke began
pouring out of the radio stack. It looked like the transponder so my
friend (who was PIC) turned it OFF....no immediate improvement so he
flipped off the Master switch. We also popped the windows open to gasp
for a breath since it had become almost impossible to breathe within
seconds (which is a scary feeling, I might add, even on a CAVU day with
the ground only 2000' below...). Whatever was smoking stopped smoking
when the Master was turned off, as expected. After the air cleared a bit
we turned all the radios OFF, and then turned the Master back on. My
friend turned the NavComm back on but before he could get to the
Transponder to turn it back on, it was smoking again even though it was
OFF. Master switch back OFF again. Let the air clear again. Now we're
really baffled and a bit worried how a radio can be burning like that
with the mechanical switch in the OFF position. Just to make sure we
weren't seeing things wrong, we turned the NavComm back OFF so everything
was OFF again....and then to satisfy our curiosity flipped the Master
back on one more time. Sure enough, smoke pouring out of it again.
Master back OFF and this time we pulled the breaker for the Transponder.
If I recall correctly this killed a few other things that were grouped on
the same breaker, but the point is it solved our problem in that we could
turn the Master back on with no more smoke, power up the Comm radio, and
landed uneventfully. We asked the avionics shop to fix the transponder
along with the other unrelated squawks and left. My friend said later
that the avionics shop reported that most of the transponder's internals
were toast....don't know if they figured out why, but it was NOT the
aircraft wiring, it was the transponder itself. I believe it was a King
model.
So....I know that avionics are not *supposed* to do this, especially if
they meet DO-160 et al. And I know that we shouldn't have tried to
"troubleshoot" it in the air. But my concern is, IF such a thing should
ever happen in my homebuilt where fuses are inaccessible, the only fix I
would have would be to turn OFF--and leave OFF--the Master switch (and in
the case of something on the Essential bus, the Ess. switch would also
have to be OFF). On a nice CAVU day this would be mostly an annoying
inconvenience....but on an IFR night this would probably be fatal
(especially without vacuum gyros).
Having had this experience I am reluctant to go with inaccessible fuses.
I have considered using fuseblocks plus toggle switches but this adds
complexity, cost, time, money, failure points, etc that mostly negate the
intent of the fuseblock route.
Just wondering if you have ever heard of such a thing or considered the
options available to a pilot under such circumstances? I'm trying to
talk myself into going the fuseblock route so any help you can give me in
getting over this hurdle would be greatly appreciated : )
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
The baffles are so much fun.......not.
Cant work out what happens with the parts 10SF , 10S intersection. Right
front part of baffle. Anyone explain better than plans or got a picture?
Thanks
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A couple more Infinity questions.... |
Mark,
After leaving the boost pump on after takeoff for the duration of the flight a
couple of times, I decided to put a little green LED "ON" light on
the panel to remind me to turn it off and to check it on for landing.
The switch supplied with the S-Tec 30 for autopilot disconnect is a momentary N.O.,
can be mounted on the panel or stick.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: A couple more Infinity questions....
1) If I use one of the ON-OFF pushbuttons on the Infinity grip for my
fuel pump, is it easy to tell by feel or by looking at the button
position whether it's ON or OFF? If not, it seems that I would have to
add further complexity by putting an LED or some sort of fuel pump status
indicator on the panel...
2) For future growth, I may add a Navaid or S-Tec autopilot to my RV.
What kind of switch would I want on the grip for the "autopilot
disconnect" function? ON-OFF? Momentary N.C. or N.O.?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful input.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It was not a dark and stormy night... |
I think either method would be fine. I have breakers, for the reason you
have stated. I want to be able to shut the power off to some wires, in the
event that there is a fire, chaffed wire grounding, runaway trim, etc. I
had a little noise in my headsets the other day, and was trying to figure
out what it was. I just pulled breaker after breaker until it stopped. I
like Bob's fuse method, IF nothing were to ever go wrong.
If I were to build again (I'm sure I will) I would put in breakers again.
Even if nothing goes wrong, it makes troubleshooting and installation a
snap.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: It was not a dark and stormy night...
Guys, I posted the following to the aeroelectric list, but thought I'd
copy it to the RV list to see if any of you have had a similar experience
or any input one way or the other...
--Mark Navratil
Bob,
I have an experience to relate and questions about the possible
implications. I like a lot of things about your recommended fuseblocks
for circuit protection. But.....
It was not a dark and stormy night, it was a bright, sunshiny day in E.
Texas. I was flying with a friend in a C172 to Shreveport, LA to have
some avionics work done (ironically, as it would turn out). We were
flying along about 2000' agl enjoying ourselves when acrid smoke began
pouring out of the radio stack. It looked like the transponder so my
friend (who was PIC) turned it OFF....no immediate improvement so he
flipped off the Master switch. We also popped the windows open to gasp
for a breath since it had become almost impossible to breathe within
seconds (which is a scary feeling, I might add, even on a CAVU day with
the ground only 2000' below...). Whatever was smoking stopped smoking
when the Master was turned off, as expected. After the air cleared a bit
we turned all the radios OFF, and then turned the Master back on. My
friend turned the NavComm back on but before he could get to the
Transponder to turn it back on, it was smoking again even though it was
OFF. Master switch back OFF again. Let the air clear again. Now we're
really baffled and a bit worried how a radio can be burning like that
with the mechanical switch in the OFF position. Just to make sure we
weren't seeing things wrong, we turned the NavComm back OFF so everything
was OFF again....and then to satisfy our curiosity flipped the Master
back on one more time. Sure enough, smoke pouring out of it again.
Master back OFF and this time we pulled the breaker for the Transponder.
If I recall correctly this killed a few other things that were grouped on
the same breaker, but the point is it solved our problem in that we could
turn the Master back on with no more smoke, power up the Comm radio, and
landed uneventfully. We asked the avionics shop to fix the transponder
along with the other unrelated squawks and left. My friend said later
that the avionics shop reported that most of the transponder's internals
were toast....don't know if they figured out why, but it was NOT the
aircraft wiring, it was the transponder itself. I believe it was a King
model.
So....I know that avionics are not *supposed* to do this, especially if
they meet DO-160 et al. And I know that we shouldn't have tried to
"troubleshoot" it in the air. But my concern is, IF such a thing should
ever happen in my homebuilt where fuses are inaccessible, the only fix I
would have would be to turn OFF--and leave OFF--the Master switch (and in
the case of something on the Essential bus, the Ess. switch would also
have to be OFF). On a nice CAVU day this would be mostly an annoying
inconvenience....but on an IFR night this would probably be fatal
(especially without vacuum gyros).
Having had this experience I am reluctant to go with inaccessible fuses.
I have considered using fuseblocks plus toggle switches but this adds
complexity, cost, time, money, failure points, etc that mostly negate the
intent of the fuseblock route.
Just wondering if you have ever heard of such a thing or considered the
options available to a pilot under such circumstances? I'm trying to
talk myself into going the fuseblock route so any help you can give me in
getting over this hurdle would be greatly appreciated : )
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
> When this list hashed this out about a year ago it was proved that you get
> what you pay for.
>
> Aeroflash and others come up short when compared to the big buck Whelens.
> I have noticed diferences in brightness between light aircraft and then
> airlines blow them all away.
>
> I went the route of the three strobe single power supply Whelen and saved
a
> couple of ounces and dollars. Good coverage and good brightness.
>
Like Norman, I went the way of the Whelen system. However, I've heard the
viz argument before and am not sure of the importance. I've watched
airplanes operating at our airport in daylight hours and have noticed that
none of them transmitted strobe light very far, no matter what system was
being used. Sunlight overwhelmed them. However, the night lighting was
very good, no matter what system was used. I'm not sure that one needs an
expensive system of lights when one can see about any light for quite some
distance at night. For example, I'll usually see an airplane equiped with
a simple rotating beacon long before I get to it. Strobes just enhance
that. I'd worry more about how well the system is made and the longevity of
the bulbs, etc. I don't like having to do a lot of maintenance on something
I use very little. On that point, I'm not sure which is better or worse.
If I build another RV, I'm sure I'll use Whelen only because it's my
personal choice, not because the others are no good. I also like the RMD
landing lights just because I like the way they look, not how they perform.
I do know that I had a Aeroflash rotating beacon in my Cheetah that
performed quite well. If it was good enough for a commercially built
airplane, I'd have to think the unit would be good enough for an
experimental.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
On my -6, the vertical part of angle 10S extends to aft edge of the 10SF.
Rivets go through the 10SF, 10S, and side baffle. But, the 10SF is taller
than the vertical angle of 10S, so I put a .062 shim under the 10SF to take
up the space above the vertical angle of the 10S. Another rivet goes
through the upper part of the 10SF, the spacer, and the side baffle. Also,
the vertical part of the 10SF is cut down somewhat and bent a little to fit
the transition bend in the side baffle.
Sorry, no picture.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Baffle help
>
> The baffles are so much fun.......not.
> Cant work out what happens with the parts 10SF , 10S intersection. Right
> front part of baffle. Anyone explain better than plans or got a picture?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
Chris & Susie, my helper and I just went through the same thing you have
with the 10SF and arrived at a solution after lots of head scratching. If
you look at the plans (which leave a lot to be desired) you'll find on pg 9
that part 10SF shown there is an alternate way of making the part compared
to the way the part looks on pg 5.
We opted to make the part of 3/4" alum. angle, as with part 10S. We cut
this pc of angle to about 1 1/4" long with a slot about half the length of
the part, down the center of the angle. We then bent one of the halves of
the slotted end to match that of part 10S, laid 10SF on top of 10S and
rivited it in place with 3 rivits as shown on the drawing on page 5.
I'm not sure this is the way van's intended this part to be made, it's just
our solution, for what it's worth. Hope it works for you......
Walt Shipley RV8A Baffling/Airbox
----------
> From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Baffle help
> Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:38 PM
>
>
> The baffles are so much fun.......not.
> Cant work out what happens with the parts 10SF , 10S intersection. Right
> front part of baffle. Anyone explain better than plans or got a picture?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question |
Guys, following is and email I sent to Van's about a problem I'm having
with my FAB-360 airbox installation. Anyone experienced this, and if so,
what did you do?
Thanks
----------
> From: Gus Funnell <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
> To: Nancy and Walter Shipley
> Subject: Re: FAB 360 Airbox question
> Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 4:20 PM
>
> Yes, the Bendix is about 1.25" shorter than the carb it replaces.
> Not many people have this arrangement, and I'm not sure what
> they're doing, we haven't had to deal with it here.
>
> The best solution would probably be to make a spacer between the
> airbox and the servo and extend it down that way as you suggest,
> but I don't know where you'd get one either. You might call Airflow
> Performance 864 576 4512 as they may have something that would
> work. Otherwise I think you'd have to make something from a block
> of aluminum, which could be done on a drill press, though a milling
> machine would be better.
>
> Gus
>
> On 24 Oct 01, at 14:11, Nancy and Walter Shipley wrote:
>
> > Gus, with the top & bottom cowl halves in place on my 8A, the FAB 360
> > airbox intake is about 1 1/4" higher vertically than the opening in
> > the cowl air scoop. It would appear that I need some sort of spacer
> > between my Bendix fuel injection servo and the airbox mount plate, but
> > I haven't a clue as to where to find one.
> >
> > My guess is that I should not have a curved induction tube to solve
> > this problem. I'm thinking the air needs to rush directly into the
> > airbox on a straight line. Please give me your thoughts...........
> >
> > Thanks, Walt Shipley #80877
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A couple more Infinity questions.... |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/26/2001 08:42:58 AM
I elected not to use an ON-OFF button on the Infinity grip for the electric
fuel pump. Instead I use a rocker switch (in the Control Vision load
Center). I like to be able to quickly glance at the switch and verify ON
or OFF. Theoretically, you can verify the status of the electric pump by
looking at the fuel pressure gage. In my set-up,however, I see only a
couple of psi difference between mechanical pump pressure and pressure with
both pumps. Switches that light when ON would further help the situation.
My rocker switches are unlighted, but I have been told the new switches
supplied with Control Vision load centers are lighted.
Finally, if you use the switch on the grip, you will surely need a relay to
handle the current consumed by the fuel pump.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | czechsix(at)juno.com |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/25/01 10:43 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: A couple more Infinity questions....
|
1) If I use one of the ON-OFF pushbuttons on the Infinity grip for my
fuel pump, is it easy to tell by feel or by looking at the button
position whether it's ON or OFF? If not, it seems that I would have to
add further complexity by putting an LED or some sort of fuel pump status
indicator on the panel...
2) For future growth, I may add a Navaid or S-Tec autopilot to my RV.
What kind of switch would I want on the grip for the "autopilot
disconnect" function? ON-OFF? Momentary N.C. or N.O.?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful input.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/26/2001 07:54:12 AM
good point about the aeroflash non certed lights however, their approved
lights are only a couple hundred dollars in kit form and do meet the
requirements as they are original equipment on Cessna and a couple of other
Airframes. I used to sell the strobe kits @ Superflite for 254.95 which was
2 power supplies and 2 wingtip strobes. Since then, they came out with
their own nav light where their strobe piggy backs the light the same way
the Whelen assemblies do. As I don't want to sound like I'm playing
favorites, the Whelen system is still by far , hands down. the best system
on the market and if you'd like more information on it, you can reach Fred
Frazier- aviation(at)whelen.com or by phone (at)860-526-9504.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shipping charges |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/26/2001 07:57:39 AM
Most carriers have terminals here in Dallas, however I'm certain Austin has
terminals as well, You could have them tag to hold at terminal for pick up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gilbert Wheeler" <gilbertwheeler(at)winning.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 kit for sale. |
Hello Bargain Shoppers,
I have a RV-6 kit for sale: The kit contains Fuselage, Wing and Empennage kits,
also included is the jig for wings and a partial Empennage kit. Wings are about
30% completed. $6,000.00 for all. Today if purchased the Fuselage and Wing
kit would cost $7,680. The Empennage is no longer available, I have one full
and one partial. They would cost you around $1,300 if purchased from Vans.
I can email photos if interested. Send email to freddie811(at)yahoo.com. Or call
1 800 574-4093 ask for Gilbert.
Thanks
Gilbert
--
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets |
Hi Group,
While riveting my leading edge to the spar, the longer 5's, 6's and 7's 1/8
inch standard rivets would not set before destroying the head. I was using
about a 2-pound bar and a 2x gun set at full power and tape on the heads.
Very frustrating! I purchased a 3x and made a 4-5 pound bar out of some
scrap steel and it really helped. I can now set the rivets in a second or
two before they have a chance to work harden. Just wanted to pass the tip
on.
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
DSM
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
. The Aero Flash units do not meet this FAA requirement
for output.
I have to correct you here, Paul. They do meet the requirement, as long as
the plane (certified) was manufactured pre 1987. These strobes are PMA'd
for Cessnas. You could go put one on right now on your 1978 Cessna 172 and
be completely legal. They just don't meet the requirement for newer
airplanes after 1987. I have the Aeroflash, and they are plenty bright, as
seen from the ground, and the air. I called tower 8 miles out last night,
and usually they say "report 3 miles" but he said, "roger RV7AB, in sight
number 2"
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul S" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Lights
There seems to be quite a bit of misinformation about what strobe lights are
"legal" for our planes. Whelen lights are the only strobes I have found that
emit 400 candle powerPeople say, "hey it's Experimental and doesn't need to
meet part
23." This is true, however part 91 sets the rules as the pilot for VFR night
flight. Part 91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anti collision light(s). No
exemptions for experimentals. Typically the FAA will classify approved as
meeting the standards of part 23. Yes, the AeroFlash units are many hundreds
of dollars less, however I consider it cheap insurance that the other guy
will see me, Whelen strobes can easily be seen during the day !
Paul Stratman RV6A Wiring
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Group
I have received 9 sets of caps to date, I have listed the ones below. I do
not plan on starting these until next week to give people a little more time
to get them to me.
If your not listed below and you have sent your caps drop me an e-mail so I
can let you know when they arrive.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
Frank Goggio
F. Malclynsk
Jody Edwards
Phillip Dressen
John Singer
Rick Gray
Nikki Duncan
Mauri Morin
Krueger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Your aircraft will be visible to another pilot in daylight LONG before
he can pick up the strobes, regardless of brand. At night, any ol'
strobe will work fine.
DAR's couldn't care less what kind of strobe you have on your
plane.........
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Aeroflash strobes)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================================
>
Yes, the AeroFlash units are many hundreds
> of dollars less, however I consider it cheap insurance that the other guy
> will see me, Whelen strobes can easily be seen during the day !
>
> Paul Stratman RV6A Wiring
> http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Steve,
I plan on sending my caps in.
I wanted to put them in a small box with a check, but my wife ran out of
checks this past week and we had to order more. So I'm sitting around
waiting for the new checks to come in the mail.
I simply cannot stand to keep having you do work for me and me not paying
(yet). Its against my better judgement, and I do not want to take advantage
of you...
SO... I will put my caps in the mail TODAY, and I will put cash in it to
cover this cost...
By the way, I polished my caps and would like to have mine back (not
somebody elses). I'm sure mine will be the shiniest ones, but I've put my
name on the backs of them anyway.
Thanks for everything! Look for a small box from me no later than Tuesday.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PANELCUT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
Group
I have received 9 sets of caps to date, I have listed the ones below. I do
not plan on starting these until next week to give people a little more time
to get them to me.
If your not listed below and you have sent your caps drop me an e-mail so I
can let you know when they arrive.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
Frank Goggio
F. Malclynsk
Jody Edwards
Phillip Dressen
John Singer
Rick Gray
Nikki Duncan
Mauri Morin
Krueger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: It was not a dark and stormy night... |
I too like Bobs designs and ideas for most electrical stuff, but for Casper I
chose a combination of breakers and fuses. My logic was for non essential
systems like CD player, AOA, etc. a fuse would be OK. Essential items such as
elevator or aileron trim, alternator power etc., rather than put in a on/off
switch for emergency use, I used pull able breakers, that in an emergency can
disconnect the particular item. These are only used for emergency use or
trouble shooting so wear on them is not an issue. Only the breakers that it
would be of some use to be able to switch on or off, are pull able the rest are
normal pop out style that can be reset if needed.
Garry "Casper"
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I think either method would be fine. I have breakers, for the reason you
> have stated. I want to be able to shut the power off to some wires, in the
> event that there is a fire, chaffed wire grounding, runaway trim, etc. I
> had a little noise in my headsets the other day, and was trying to figure
> out what it was. I just pulled breaker after breaker until it stopped. I
> like Bob's fuse method, IF nothing were to ever go wrong.
>
> If I were to build again (I'm sure I will) I would put in breakers again.
> Even if nothing goes wrong, it makes troubleshooting and installation a
> snap.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A couple more Infinity questions.... |
Be careful and thoughtful with regard to auto pilot switches on the
stick. In the excitement of the 1st flight an RV8 person in our EAA
chapter fought the auto pilot when it was time to land!
Barry POte RV9a fuselage
clipped
>
> 2) For future growth, I may add a Navaid or S-Tec autopilot to my RV.
> What kind of switch would I want on the grip for the "autopilot
> disconnect" function? ON-OFF? Momentary N.C. or N.O.?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question |
I have the spacers in stock.
Eustace Bowhay 250 675 4428
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question
>
> Guys, following is and email I sent to Van's about a problem I'm having
> with my FAB-360 airbox installation. Anyone experienced this, and if so,
> what did you do?
>
> Thanks
> ----------
> > From: Gus Funnell <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
> > To: Nancy and Walter Shipley
> > Subject: Re: FAB 360 Airbox question
> > Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 4:20 PM
> >
> > Yes, the Bendix is about 1.25" shorter than the carb it replaces.
> > Not many people have this arrangement, and I'm not sure what
> > they're doing, we haven't had to deal with it here.
> >
> > The best solution would probably be to make a spacer between the
> > airbox and the servo and extend it down that way as you suggest,
> > but I don't know where you'd get one either. You might call Airflow
> > Performance 864 576 4512 as they may have something that would
> > work. Otherwise I think you'd have to make something from a block
> > of aluminum, which could be done on a drill press, though a milling
> > machine would be better.
> >
> > Gus
> >
> > On 24 Oct 01, at 14:11, Nancy and Walter Shipley wrote:
> >
> > > Gus, with the top & bottom cowl halves in place on my 8A, the FAB 360
> > > airbox intake is about 1 1/4" higher vertically than the opening in
> > > the cowl air scoop. It would appear that I need some sort of spacer
> > > between my Bendix fuel injection servo and the airbox mount plate, but
> > > I haven't a clue as to where to find one.
> > >
> > > My guess is that I should not have a curved induction tube to solve
> > > this problem. I'm thinking the air needs to rush directly into the
> > > airbox on a straight line. Please give me your thoughts...........
> > >
> > > Thanks, Walt Shipley #80877
> > >
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets |
Jack,
I absolutely agree. I started out with a 2X gun and about half way through
the first wing, Avery had a special deal at Copperstate and I bought a 3X. I
was amazed how easier it was to set the 1/8th rivets with just a couple
hits.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Textor <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
>
> Hi Group,
> While riveting my leading edge to the spar, the longer 5's, 6's and 7's
1/8
> inch standard rivets would not set before destroying the head. I was
using
> about a 2-pound bar and a 2x gun set at full power and tape on the heads.
> Very frustrating! I purchased a 3x and made a 4-5 pound bar out of some
> scrap steel and it really helped. I can now set the rivets in a second or
> two before they have a chance to work harden. Just wanted to pass the tip
> on.
> Jack Textor
> RV8, wings
> DSM
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
> www.IaJobs.com
> jack(at)IaJobs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Listers--
Following a recent thread on oil consumption and cylinder linings.
When my engine was built by LyCon (IO-540, but this will apply to
-320s/-360s, etc) I was told not to put in more than 8 qts in the 12 qt
sump. I still had a fairly dirty belly and had to add oil (Shell W100
Plus) about every 6-8 hrs. I assumed the oil consumption was because of
my style of take-offs and my inability to fly upright, in a straight
line for any length of time.
After talking with LyCon, again and a couple of local AP/IAs, I decided
to keep the sump oil at 7 qts. There has been no change in oil temps or
pressure and no change in CHT--however, my oil consumption after the
change shows that I'm now adding oil every 15-20 hrs, esp. on
continues, what the next oil analysis says and what happens when I do
some consecutive hrs of real aggressive flying.
The moral of the story is that every engine has its own sump level that
makes it happy and it would behoove everyone to experiment with this so
as to not be throwing away perfectly good oil into the atmosphere. The
minimum oil levels listed in the Lycoming manuals seem almost dangerous,
but, hey, they've been around for a long time.
Boyd
RV-Super 6
340 hrs
SE FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
Greg,
Steve Who!! oh me, I will be sure to keep them straight JIM, ......Greg.
I keep them in the box they where shipped in, as long as Jim's name and
address is not on the box your safe.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
I am just about finished with my wings. Does anyone out there know of an
orphan RV 6 or 6A fuselage? Looking for a bargain. I'm in Ohio.
Joe Cabe
jscabe(at)juno.com
330-854-1213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Re: 809 leading edge ribs |
Dave
I'll post the photos and a describtion to the SE Florida RV Builders web site
next weekend. I'm catching a flight to Buffalo in the morning. I'll email you
the photos off list.
Charlie
>
> >
> >Gerald,
> > You have a legitimate concern. To my mind, an even greater concern is;
> >how can the bucker see what he's doing while setting the rivets on the
> >inner ribs? This is a problem in the RV-7, RV-8 & RV-9A I solved this
> >by fabricating a large "Tim Allen" bucking bar. This bar weighs 3 pounds
> >and has 3/16" holes drilled in it on one end. These 3 holes are there to
> >insert your 1/8" universal (Avery #1608) squeezer set in. (the ones you
> >use in your Avery squeezer & C tool)
>
> It sounds like a tool worthy of a photo. Any chance you could post a photo
> or sketch somewhere?
>
> Dave Berryhill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Brightness |
The inspector is not in most cases even going to look at your strobes, as they
are not a requirement to fly an experimental aircraft. Casper was just signed
off this summer.
Garry
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> But the question begging to be answered is this: Is the aeroflash strobe
> lights that are a bright as pre-1987 requirements bright enough for today's
> FAA examiners who ok our new experimental plan's air worthiness certificate?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroflash Brightness
>
> >
> > Just to keep this going I'm going to throw another hat into the ring,
> Kuntzleman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs |
I need two of the L-shaped metal lugs that hold each mag "ear" when the two
retaining nuts are tightened. I have some for Slick mags, but they won't
work on a Bendix mag. Only need two for the right series 20 type mag on a
0-320. Anyone have a pair they would like to sell. Please contact
off-list.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: It was not a dark and stormy night... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Thanks for the comments, input and feedback on my story. A couple things
need to be clarified though. I got a lot of comments, many off-list,
where people misunderstood my statement to the effect that if you had to
turn your master switch off while flying night IFR, it would probly be
fatal without vacuum gyros......I got quite a few replies admonishing me
to never fly at night OR in IFR without attitude instruments. My point
was not to imply that I plan to fly IFR without attitude instruments, but
specifically without VACUUM instruments. My panel will have elec turn
coordinator and EFIS for attitude and DG (probly Dynon). No vacuum
system in my plane. For an all electric panel with inaccessible
fuseblocks (per 'Lectric Bob design), IF you were ever faced with a
scenario like the one I described where you could not isolate the fault
by turning off the unit, and the fuse did not blow, your only option
would be to turn all power off, resulting in complete loss of
instrumentation. Having the Essential bus backup does you no good if
whatever is on fire is also on the Essential bus. You'd have to leave it
off too.
Several people suggested that perhaps the mechanical breaker in the 172
was faulty, whereas a fuse would be more reliable in breaking the circuit
when an overload occurs. Hopefully this is true. What I'm wondering,
though, is if there could have been a failure mode where something
started to smolder (say a circuit board with fine traces), yet still not
draw enough current to blow the breaker or fuse?
Right now I'm watching Dynon keenly, because they are talking about
having a built-in battery backup. Although this adds complexity, it
would make me feel more comfortable going all-electric with fuseblocks,
because in the worst-case scenario if you had to power off both Master
and Essential buses, the Dynon would get you down on it's internal
battery. You wouldn't even have to break a sweat since it has more than
you need to safely control the aircraft. I have an ICOM for backup
communications.
Thanks for all the comments and feedback. I'll make up my mind
eventually, probly after my airplane is finished : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question |
Hi Eustace, thanks for your input. How thick are your spacers and what is
the cost?
My engine is an IO-360 B4A with a Bendix RSA-5ADI injection servo.
Walt Shipley
Loudon, TN
----------
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> To: rv list
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question
> Date: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:30 AM
>
>
> I have the spacers in stock.
>
> Eustace Bowhay 250 675 4428
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: FAB 360 Airbox question
>
>
>
> >
> > Guys, following is and email I sent to Van's about a problem I'm having
> > with my FAB-360 airbox installation. Anyone experienced this, and if
so,
> > what did you do?
> >
> > Thanks
> > ----------
> > > From: Gus Funnell <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
> > > To: Nancy and Walter Shipley
> > > Subject: Re: FAB 360 Airbox question
> > > Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 4:20 PM
> > >
> > > Yes, the Bendix is about 1.25" shorter than the carb it replaces.
> > > Not many people have this arrangement, and I'm not sure what
> > > they're doing, we haven't had to deal with it here.
> > >
> > > The best solution would probably be to make a spacer between the
> > > airbox and the servo and extend it down that way as you suggest,
> > > but I don't know where you'd get one either. You might call Airflow
> > > Performance 864 576 4512 as they may have something that would
> > > work. Otherwise I think you'd have to make something from a block
> > > of aluminum, which could be done on a drill press, though a milling
> > > machine would be better.
> > >
> > > Gus
> > >
> > > On 24 Oct 01, at 14:11, Nancy and Walter Shipley wrote:
> > >
> > > > Gus, with the top & bottom cowl halves in place on my 8A, the FAB
360
> > > > airbox intake is about 1 1/4" higher vertically than the opening in
> > > > the cowl air scoop. It would appear that I need some sort of spacer
> > > > between my Bendix fuel injection servo and the airbox mount plate,
but
> > > > I haven't a clue as to where to find one.
> > > >
> > > > My guess is that I should not have a curved induction tube to solve
> > > > this problem. I'm thinking the air needs to rush directly into the
> > > > airbox on a straight line. Please give me your thoughts...........
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Walt Shipley #80877
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Stick Grip Switches |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
Be careful and thoughtful with regard to auto pilot switches on the
stick. In the excitement of the 1st flight an RV8 person in our EAA
chapter fought the auto pilot when it was time to land!
Barry POte RV9a fuselage<
It sounds like this individual had an outopilot on/off switch on the stick
grip. Wrong way to go. The autopilot should only have a disconnect switch
mounted on the stick or throttle. The on or engage switch should be on the
panel or sub panel to preclude inadvertently turning it on. It is also
helpful to have some aural or visual indication when the disconnect switch
is activated to preclude unknowingly disconnecting the autopilot.
Ron Schreck
RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: It was not a dark and stormy night... |
Mark,
We wired my 4 using most of electric Bobs wiring diagram. I made a covered
fuse panel which is accessable in flight by opening a door with 2 wing type
fasteners
(the ones from the kit for the oil door). It is just aft and below the inst.
panel. I have opened this in flight to check a fuse with no problem at all. I
like it.
I also have the Infinity stick grip, which I really like also, and the
navaid auto pilot. I used the top left push- on-push-off switch as a servo
disconnect with a relay in between. Works great.
Pat Allender, RV-4 flying for about 4 weeks now, Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Nancy & Walter Shipley:
When I converted my 0360 to the Bendix system it required a 3/4" spacer.
I had some extras make up at the time and several builders have used
them. I ask 35.00 US plus 5.00 S&H which is about my cost on them. The
quality is good as there were milled using the cad process.
Give me your address and I can mail you one, if it doesn't work for you
mail it back.
Eustace
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> I need two of the L-shaped metal lugs that hold each mag "ear" when
> the two retaining nuts are tightened.
******************************************************
Jerry:
I have 2 S6LN-21bendix mags ( disassembled) along with a PS5 carb from my
E225 Bonanza.
I looked for the angled parts & can't find them in the bags. My lugs have
slots in them, so a washer & nuts is all that is needed to lock them
down.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell wrench? |
Hi Guys,
I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
$225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
often (hopefully).
Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for a
few days? Much appreciated!!
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Yes, Aero Flash units meet the FAA requirements for (certified) pre 1987
and yes the FAA inspector or DAR couldn't care less what strobes you have.
But we are not building pre 1987 aircraft, and the DAR is only certifying
your
airplane for DAY VFR-night and instrument if equipped !!
Remember, part 95.1 applies to you the pilot, not the airplane. It requires
"approved" anti collision lights. Now if you are flying a pre 1987
experimental,
hey, your good to go!
Now, think how the insurance company will handle a mishap at night ill
equipped ?!?
Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch |
Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can be used for fuel pump and
primer in one.
I am looking for a switch that has (down) OFF, (center) ON Fuel Pump, and
(up) (ON)Momentary Primer.
This type of switch is called a 2 circuit progressive, where center(Circuit
1) remains on while you push up
(Circuit 2) for momentary prime.
If you have this set up with a toggle switch I would sure like to know where
you found the switch
and a part number.
Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Ref attaching the fuel tank platenuts to the main spar:
1. What is the diameter of a 509-8R8 screw? Do I drill the plate nut holes
out with #21 drill bit?
2. Countersink the holes in the spar with a #30 countersink? The holes are
larger than #30. Won't this elongate the holes?
3. Ref dimpling the skin for 509 8R8 screws. What size dimple die do you
use? #21?
Thankx
Steve Hurlbut
Kingston, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
As an added note,I never turn my beacon off as that,s a good indication if I
forgot to turn the master sw off.Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@97FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> Thats not what I get out of 91.209(b).
>
> It says i can't move or park it in a taxiway between sunset & sunrise
> except for Alaska.
> Now sub paragraph (d) says I have to use the anticollision lights
> required by 91.205(c)(3) unless the PIC wants to turn them off.
>
Are we looking at the same book? I'm using FAR/AIM 2001 and FAR/AMT 2001.
Par 91.209 says "No person may (b) Operate an aircraft that is equipped with
an anticollision light system, unless it has lighted anticollision lights.
However, the anticollision lights need not be lighted when the
pilot-in-command determines that, because of operating conditions, it would
be in the interest of safety to turn the lights off."
> Now I get to 91.205(c) [ VFR (night)] and paragraph (3) says I need a
> system that was designed" I guess brighter" after August 11 1971 date.
The tops in candle power would be 400 candles, per Par 23.1401(e).
> Then it says they are called out in part 23,25,27, & 29. after years of
> looking at the FAR's, I noticed the far's & the paragrafph's are all odd
> numbered.
>
I never noticed that, either. They aren't. There are several even numbered
ones out there.
> I have a part 23 from 1987, & Mike Robertson has told me that we use part
> 25 for the Heavies. What are parts 27 & 29 used for??
>
I finally bought new ones, this year. I decided to get both just to see
what was in them. I really like the FAR/AMT. To build and fly, one needs
both for research tools, I guess. I've been using mine, today. :-) Part
27 is smaller rotorcraft. Part 29 is for transport rotorcraft.
> I read some where that if you use the stobes all the time you will get
> better life from them.
>
I remember reading that leaving them off for long periods is not good for
them. Thanks for the reminder, Don. I guess I'll be using mine to keep
from breaking the FAR and will maybe do the system good. :-)
Hmmm. I think I'll archive this one. It has some good stuff in it.
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch |
--- Paul Stratman wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can be used for fuel pump
> and
> primer in one.
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#switch
The 2-50 will suit your needs.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
Howdy--
I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure areas
of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
How dat be???
Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front side
of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of a
prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should it
keep the bugs away?
And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
Boyd
Super 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs |
It has been a while, but Bendix uses slots that the stud stick thru so Don
is right all you need is a washer, lock washer and a nut. The pictures in
my Bendix manual confirms this. The latest Av Consumer said you should use
a new lock washer each time. They were talking about the single drive double
mag and were tacitly recommending to a degree that one should use a
self-locking nut as they are more reliable than the lock washer approach.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs
writes:
>
> I need two of the L-shaped metal lugs that hold each mag "ear" when
> the two retaining nuts are tightened.
******************************************************
Jerry:
I have 2 S6LN-21bendix mags ( disassembled) along with a PS5 carb from my
E225 Bonanza.
I looked for the angled parts & can't find them in the bags. My lugs have
slots in them, so a washer & nuts is all that is needed to lock them
down.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch |
Switch type 2-50 at www.aeroelectric.com.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Stratman
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 1:50 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch
>
>
> Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can be used for fuel pump and
> primer in one.
>
> I am looking for a switch that has (down) OFF, (center) ON Fuel Pump, and
> (up) (ON)Momentary Primer.
> This type of switch is called a 2 circuit progressive, where
> center(Circuit
> 1) remains on while you push up
> (Circuit 2) for momentary prime.
>
> If you have this set up with a toggle switch I would sure like to
> know where
> you found the switch
> and a part number.
>
> Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Brightness |
>
> I don't remember the details so I have just written to both Whelen and
> Aeroflash to compare the current draw and joules of brightness for the
> wingtip strobes with individual power supplies. I'll post this apples to
> apples comparison to the list when I get the answers, hopefully next week.
> Lets settle this scientifically.
My Whelens with power supply Model # HDA, CF draws 7.0 amps at 14 VDC. It
flashes with a power of 44 joules to each light when used alternately and at
a rate of 90 +/- FPM. This was all hashed out several years ago and the
power the Whelens emit is much greater than any of the others. Add this
data to your comparisons Norman. We will be waiting for the comparsion.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
There is an article in the November 2001 Experimenter about Strobes and the
necessity to power them up once in a while or the Capacitors go bad.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs |
Cy and Don,
Makes good sense to me. I just assumed since Slick used them, Bendix must
have done the same. But, my Slicks don't have the ears so I should have
realized washers would have worked. That's what the RV-List is for!
I have read about another item about Bendix mags that can cause indigestion.
If you use a Slick gasket with a Bendix mag, the ears can easily break when
the nut is tightened!
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs
>
> It has been a while, but Bendix uses slots that the stud stick thru so Don
> is right all you need is a washer, lock washer and a nut. The pictures in
> my Bendix manual confirms this. The latest Av Consumer said you should
use
> a new lock washer each time. They were talking about the single drive
double
> mag and were tacitly recommending to a degree that one should use a
> self-locking nut as they are more reliable than the lock washer approach.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Need Bendix Mag retaining lugs
>
>
> writes:
> >
> > I need two of the L-shaped metal lugs that hold each mag "ear" when
> > the two retaining nuts are tightened.
> ******************************************************
> Jerry:
>
> I have 2 S6LN-21bendix mags ( disassembled) along with a PS5 carb from my
> E225 Bonanza.
>
> I looked for the angled parts & can't find them in the bags. My lugs have
> slots in them, so a washer & nuts is all that is needed to lock them
> down.
>
>
> Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
> Arlington, Tx
> ******************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch |
I used the 2-50 available from B&C.
I used the following setup:
prong 1 is attached to electric pump
prong 4 is attached to primer soleniod
prong 2 is attached to fuseblock to power electric pump
prong 5 is atached to fuseblock to power primer solenoid
prongs 3 and 6 are not used
The primer and pump use different size wiring, so I wanted to fuse them
seperately.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Stratman <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch
>
> Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can be used for fuel pump and
> primer in one.
>
> I am looking for a switch that has (down) OFF, (center) ON Fuel Pump, and
> (up) (ON)Momentary Primer.
> This type of switch is called a 2 circuit progressive, where
center(Circuit
> 1) remains on while you push up
> (Circuit 2) for momentary prime.
>
> If you have this set up with a toggle switch I would sure like to know
where
> you found the switch
> and a part number.
>
> Paul Stratman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
I've experienced this before all well.
Yes it exactly due to the high pressure differences on the prop. Its this
tremendous resultant force that equates to thrust. I did an experiment one
time (controlled experiment, do not do this at home)(not on a flying
aircraft) where we ran the prop at 1900 rpm, then injected differnent sand
particles into the propeller area. As the particles got larger they started
to cause pits on the back side of the prop. As the particles reached a
certain weight they could not be 'sucked' by the prop and instead caused
prop leading edge damage and deflections.
no not archive
Steve Hurlbut
Kingston, Ont
RV-7A
>From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rocket-list(at)matronics.com" ,
>"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Bug splats on BACK of propeller
>Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 17:03:48 -0400
>
>
>Howdy--
>
>I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
>definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
>expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure areas
>of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
>them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
>
>How dat be???
>
>Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front side
>of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
>needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of a
>prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should it
>keep the bugs away?
>
>And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
>
>Boyd
>Super 6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Platenuts |
Steve,
Look at www.averytools.com or www.cleavelandtool.com or in their catalogs
if you have one.
I have the Cleaveland catalog in front of me. On page 29 of their 2000 -
2001 catalog near the middle of the page you will find the information you
need for dimpling for #8 screws.
The dimple die you are looking for is a #8 dimple die.
I think the pilot drill you need will be a #21.
If in doubt call them and ask.
The tank skins will also use the same drill and dies.
Remember to use caution when drilling the holes in the spar flange that the
tank will attach to. There are parts behind the flange that you must not
nick or otherwise damage with the drill. Be careful!
Drill only through the flange thickness depth. This would be a good place to
use a drill stop. They list their drill stops on page 17 at the bottom.
happy building
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tank Platenuts
>
> Ref attaching the fuel tank platenuts to the main spar:
> 1. What is the diameter of a 509-8R8 screw? Do I drill the plate nut holes
> out with #21 drill bit?
> 2. Countersink the holes in the spar with a #30 countersink? The holes are
> larger than #30. Won't this elongate the holes?
> 3. Ref dimpling the skin for 509 8R8 screws. What size dimple die do you
> use? #21?
>
> Thankx
> Steve Hurlbut
> Kingston, Ont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall replacement |
I'm about to start the job of replacing the firewall and the steel
engine mount brackets (Wd-402 and 403) on my 19 year old RV4, S/N 62.
Anyone out there in RV land done that job and if so, what kind of
problems did you run into? Any advice would help.
Tom Rupe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
Gee, I never considered the aerodynamics of the prop to be a big factor. I
assumed it was an issue of the geometry of the prop disk. Most of the prop
disk is empty and the danger zone (for bugs) is only a few inches fore and
aft or angularly depending on blade width and pitch. The highest probability
is the bug will pass thru the disk unharmed (only to splat on the nose bowl
or windshield) with some small probability of impacting the front surface of
the blade or getting swatted by the back side and, of course, some will
splat on the spinner.
You've presented an interesting puzzle. If you ignore aerodynamic effects,
this should be solvable mathematically without contending with the mass of
the bugs or boundary layer effects. I know an AE who's still young enough to
view this as a challenge... you game Kelley? I sense a Master's thesis in
this - or at least a Barnaby Wainfan article:-)
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> Howdy--
>
> I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
> definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
> expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high
> pressure areas
> of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
> them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
>
> How dat be???
>
> Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the
> front side
> of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
> needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure
> difference of a
> prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or
> should it
> keep the bugs away?
>
> And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
>
> Boyd
> Super 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 3 Blade Prop Index |
Hi,
What is the proper propeller index in relationship to the 0 degree mark on
the starter ring for a fixed pitch 3 blade prop. I would like the engine to
shut down/stop with one blade straight up and the other two down.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump and Primer in 1 switch |
I would try Bob Nuckols at Aeroelectric Connection. That is where I got
mine, and it works like a charm.
Wes Hays
N844WB
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
Tailslides....
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 Blade Prop Index |
You only have 2 choices as 3 divides 6 twice.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: 3 Blade Prop Index
Hi,
What is the proper propeller index in relationship to the 0 degree mark on
the starter ring for a fixed pitch 3 blade prop. I would like the engine to
shut down/stop with one blade straight up and the other two down.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Lights |
It is not ill equipped, unless the DAR or inspector says so. My inspector
has granted me an airworthiness certificate that allows me to fly at night.
Regardless of equipment, if I were involved in an accident at night, the
insurance company will know that my airplane was approved for night flight.
If the insurance company has a problem with my strobes that supposedly can't
be seen very well, then they need to look at the FAA for granting an
airworthiness certificate to an airplane without "approved" anti collision
lights.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Lights
Yes, Aero Flash units meet the FAA requirements for (certified) pre 1987
and yes the FAA inspector or DAR couldn't care less what strobes you have.
But we are not building pre 1987 aircraft, and the DAR is only certifying
your
airplane for DAY VFR-night and instrument if equipped !!
Remember, part 95.1 applies to you the pilot, not the airplane. It requires
"approved" anti collision lights. Now if you are flying a pre 1987
experimental,
hey, your good to go!
Now, think how the insurance company will handle a mishap at night ill
equipped ?!?
Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
>
>Howdy--
>
>I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
>definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
>expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure areas
>of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
>them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
>
>How dat be???
>
>Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front side
>of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
>needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of a
>prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should it
>keep the bugs away?
>
>And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
>
>Boyd
>Super 6
The prop blade airfoil must be running at a positive angle of attack,
or you wouldn't be developing forward thrust. In other words, the
air must be hitting the back side of the blade. So, if the bug is
stationary, and he misses the leading edge, he could be hit by the
back side of the blade.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Sorry Paul, you are incorrect.
In Ac 20-27D Circular , it shows you what the limits are for experimental
aircraft.
Phase II #2 states, This aircraft is approved for day VFR only, unless
equipped for night VFR and/or IFR in accordance with FAR section 91.33 ( new
FAR section 21.205)
Ac 20-27D Circular also states in paragraph:
14a. All Aircraft--> and
14a(5) Depending on the intended operation under FAR Part 91, the following
FAR sections may be applicable:
a. FAR Section 91.33(b) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules (day).
b. FAR Section 91.33(c) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules
(night).
c. FAR section 91.33(d) (new FAR section 91.205) Instrument Flight Rules.
Yep, you can put aero flash units on and fly all day in an experimental
aircraft, however, at night, the feds could care less how bright you think
they are , unless you will be operating as the pilot under some section of
the regulations other than part 91?
Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Brightness |
Norman wrote:
>
>
> > What many people don't understand is, the Aeroflash strobes are just as
> > bright as most airplanes out there, as they fall within the brightness
> > requirements of all aircraft manufactured before 1987. Most aircraft we
> see
> > in the skies are pre 1987, and the Aeroflash strobes are as bright as
> those.
> >
> > So what's the problem? How could these not be bright enough, when the
> > majority of the airplanes in the sky have strobes of equal brightness?
>
> I never said Aeroflash aren't bright enough just that the expensive Whelens
> are brighter. My info comes from the large discussion this list had on this
> subject some time back. I recall I then bucked up for the Whelens because
> the RV List popular opinion was that they were better.
Ah yes........."RV List Popular Opinion".........the absolute highest
order of definitive aeronautical knowledge..............
Sorry..........couldn't resist. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
In a message dated 10/26/01 6:47:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
PANELCUT(at)aol.com writes:
> Group
>
> I have received 9 sets of caps to date, I have listed the ones below. I
> do
> not plan on starting these until next week to give people a little more
> time
> to get them to me.
> If your not listed below and you have sent your caps drop me an e-mail so I
> can let you know when they arrive.
>
Steve,
OK, now I get it........us guys that forked up the buckaroos and got
off the couch to mail our caps now have to wait for slow pokes out there till
there next check comes. In that case, I sent you one dull aluminum cap and
one primered cap......I'll take a set of those nice shiny ones when you get
around to it :
)...........since I sent mine 2 weeks ago and they were
supposed to come back a week from when they were received........ :
) as
my wife always reminds me "it is what it is"
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm waiting on my fuel caps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: RV6-List: Lights |
This is all controlled by your operating limitations, for example mine
from 1987 say that my airplane is approved for day/night and
and VFR/IFR operations. I am hesitant to upgrade my operating
limitation because I also do not have the restrictions from flying
over congested areas and airways. There is no fast rule here,
some of our operating limitations are different than others. Regarding
strobe lights I have the Aeroflash with a power supply in each wing tip
and also a position light/strobe combination on the rudder with a power
supply under the fiberglass tail cone, been working great for 13 years.
I usually leave mine on all the time but well have to say that it is
hard
to see any strobe in the daytime regardless of which brand it is. The
ONLY strobes that are really visible are the Whelens comet flash which
flash rapidly four times in a row.
Jerry S
Paul Stratman wrote:
>
>
> Sorry Paul, you are incorrect.
>
> In Ac 20-27D Circular , it shows you what the limits are for experimental
> aircraft.
> Phase II #2 states, This aircraft is approved for day VFR only, unless
> equipped for night VFR and/or IFR in accordance with FAR section 91.33 ( new
> FAR section 21.205)
>
> Ac 20-27D Circular also states in paragraph:
>
> 14a. All Aircraft--> and
> 14a(5) Depending on the intended operation under FAR Part 91, the following
> FAR sections may be applicable:
> a. FAR Section 91.33(b) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules (day).
> b. FAR Section 91.33(c) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules
> (night).
> c. FAR section 91.33(d) (new FAR section 91.205) Instrument Flight Rules.
>
> Yep, you can put aero flash units on and fly all day in an experimental
> aircraft, however, at night, the feds could care less how bright you think
> they are , unless you will be operating as the pilot under some section of
> the regulations other than part 91?
>
> Paul Stratman
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 3 Blade Prop Index |
> You only have 2 choices as 3 divides 6 twice.
Yes, but which is the correct one?
Hi,
What is the proper propeller index in relationship to the 0 degree mark on
the starter ring for a fixed pitch 3 blade prop. I would like the engine to
shut down/stop with one blade straight up and the other two down.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Boot Cowl butt joint |
Listers,
In the archives there is a reference to a boot cowl butt joint for the RV-4.
I did not find the details in the archives, but some listers had requested
an off-list reply about this modification. Did any of you save that message?
If so, will you e-mail me a copy?
Mark McGee
RV-4 fuselage parts in the jig, out of the jig, in the jig ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell wrench? |
We used a crowfoot wrench attached to the torque wrench to tighten these
bolts.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
55 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hartzell wrench?
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
> owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
> Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
> $225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
> often (hopefully).
>
> Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for a
> few days? Much appreciated!!
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: RV6-List: Lights |
Again, this responsibility falls on the inspector. The inspector has
determined that my operating limitations are in accordance with any
applicable FAR's and has issued an airworthiness that includes night VFR.
For me, the issue was done the moment that certificate was issued. And
again, if the FAA says they are not bright enough, then why would, 1) the
FAA grant airworthiness certificates to NEW experimentals with Aeroflash
installed, and 2) why would they not make all aircraft (including prior to
1987) change to the "brighter" strobes.
Seems to me that what is on paper, and what is actually practiced and
approved are two completely different things.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Re: RV6-List: Lights
Sorry Paul, you are incorrect.
In Ac 20-27D Circular , it shows you what the limits are for experimental
aircraft.
Phase II #2 states, This aircraft is approved for day VFR only, unless
equipped for night VFR and/or IFR in accordance with FAR section 91.33 ( new
FAR section 21.205)
Ac 20-27D Circular also states in paragraph:
14a. All Aircraft--> and
14a(5) Depending on the intended operation under FAR Part 91, the following
FAR sections may be applicable:
a. FAR Section 91.33(b) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules (day).
b. FAR Section 91.33(c) (new FAR section 91.205) Visual Flight Rules
(night).
c. FAR section 91.33(d) (new FAR section 91.205) Instrument Flight Rules.
Yep, you can put aero flash units on and fly all day in an experimental
aircraft, however, at night, the feds could care less how bright you think
they are , unless you will be operating as the pilot under some section of
the regulations other than part 91?
Paul Stratman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell wrench? |
Hi Jerry,
I'll probably wind up doing exactly that, as I haven't been able to locate one
of Hartzell's special adapters. Did you have any trouble clearing the aft
spinner bulkhead while torquing those bolts?
Regards,
Ken
Jerry Carter wrote:
>
> We used a crowfoot wrench attached to the torque wrench to tighten these
> bolts.
>
> Jerry Carter
> RV-8A
> 55 hrs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Hartzell wrench?
>
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
> > owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
> > Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
> > $225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
> > often (hopefully).
> >
> > Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for a
> > few days? Much appreciated!!
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> > Ashland, MA
> > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> > installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
> > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> The baffles are so much fun.......not.
> Cant work out what happens with the parts 10SF , 10S intersection. Right
> front part of baffle. Anyone explain better than plans or got a picture?
Don't know if it shows what you want, and I SURE don't remember what part
number is what, but there are some pictures of my baffles during
construction/assembly at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Web Server Upgraded! Blazingly Fast Archive Searches!! |
Dear Listers,
As of this weekend, the Matronics Email List Web Server is now running on a
brand new hardware platform and the latest version of RedHat Linux! The
new hardware includes Dual 1.7GHz Xeon Processors, a 400MHz FSB
motherboard, 1GB of 800MHz RAM, a Dual-Channel 160 MB/Sec Ultra-160 SCSI
Controller, and an Ultra 160 36GB 15,000 RPM Seagate Cheetah hard
drive. The performance of the new system is, in a word, breathtaking!
In a variety of benchmark tests against the previous server, the new system
is at *least* six times faster! This means that your Archive Search Engine
queries will now come back in what seems like an instant! Single word
searches of the 113MB RV-List Archive now return in 2-3 seconds, and
searches of all other List Archives return in 1 second or
less!! Performance enhancements in the download and viewing of all other
web-based tools should also be noticeably improved as well.
Please enjoy the new system performance and don't forget, the Annual Email
List Fund Raiser is just around the corner!! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gretz aero" <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
"Tailwind-List" ,
"RV-List" ,
"Rocket-List" ,
"Lancair-List" ,
"Glasair-List" ,
"EZ-List" ,
"Avionics-List" ,
"AeroElectric-List"
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube |
Hello to the List,
If you are interested in a heated pitot tube and a great looking
mounting bracket to put on your aircraft, you may want to look at my
website at http://www.gretzaero.com
There you will see that I have two different pitot tubes available. I
also manufacture a very nice looking mounting bracket kit for the
installation of the pitot tube of your choice. The chrome finish of the
mounting bracket matches the finish of the pitot tube. Or, you may
choose a paintable surface mounting bracket.
I am offering a very special deal on the purchase of my PH502-12CR pitot
tube which is $130, IF, YOU MENTION AT THE TIME OF THE ORDER, YOU SAW
THIS SPECIAL ON THIS E-MAIL LIST. This is a $5 savings on my already low
price of $135. My prices always include shipping in the US.
I hope to hear from you soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gretz aero" <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
"Tailwind-List" ,
"RV-List" ,
"Rocket-List" ,
"Lancair-List" ,
"Glasair-List" ,
"EZ-List" ,
"Avionics-List" ,
"AeroElectric-List"
| Subject: | Electric trim cable kits and servo motor kits |
Hello to the List,
I have Electric Elevator Trim Cable Kits and Servo Motor Kits that you
may want to consider using during building or up-grading for electric
elevator trim. On my website http://www.gretzaero.com you will find my
page on Alternative Electric Elevator Trim Kits. There you will see the
information you need to consider for the use of this kit on your
aircraft.
Something that is not yet on the website and is my newest kit, is the
Servo Motor Kit. You will need this kit for the installation of my Trim
Cable Kit and now you will not have to order it from another source.
This Servo Motor Kit consists of the Ray Allen Company T3-12A servo
(formally MAC Servo 8A), an LED position indicator, and a rocker switch.
This servo kit is $235 including shipping in the US. I also have the Ray
Allen Co. Relay Deck which is needed if you want to have more control
switches than the supplied rocker switch in line. This Relay Deck is
$34.50 if it is ordered at the same time as the Servo Kit.
I hope to hear from you soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
Eustace, thanks for getting back. I just made up some temporary 3/4"spacers
out of 1/4" tubing to check if that width spacer would do the job for me
and I need at least a 1" spacer to align perfectly with the air scoop. So,
looks as if your spacers are just a tad too short for me.
Thanks again.......
Walt Shipley
----------
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: Spacer
> Date: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:10 PM
>
>
> Nancy & Walter Shipley:
>
> When I converted my 0360 to the Bendix system it required a 3/4" spacer.
> I had some extras make up at the time and several builders have used
> them. I ask 35.00 US plus 5.00 S&H which is about my cost on them. The
> quality is good as there were milled using the cad process.
>
> Give me your address and I can mail you one, if it doesn't work for you
> mail it back.
>
> Eustace
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
Listers (or I should say 6A builders),
Question for those of you who have been there....When I route my hyd
lines from the firewall bracket, along the bottom of the firewall, along the
sides, and then out the side of the fuse where exactly do you exit the fuse??
Dwg 40 and 49 show the 833 angle fitting exiting the fuse somewhere along
the side, but no real measurement or distance? Georges video shows his just
aft of the rudder pedals but that would put mine about where the fwrd wing
attach angle will end up. Any info/help or pictures would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
Finishing Kit, 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Facet Fuel Pump... |
Just an observation...
Opened my Facet Fuel pump from Vans today and started to read the
instructions and one of the first things says: "Not for use in Aircraft".
I guess just about everyone has used these automotive pumps, but for my own
edification, why do they put this in the paperwork? Liability? Design? ????
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell wrench? |
Ken,
No trouble clearing the bulkhead. I had an A&P help me do this, because I
wanted to make sure it was saftied correctly. One thing you might consider
is waiting to safety the nuts until you're actually ready to fly - just in
case you have to remove the prop for some reason (like putting on a shorter
alternator belt). I put the prop on before fitting the cowl, and it sure was
in the way for the rest of the construction. If I had it to do over again, I
would remove the prop after fitting up the cowl and do the final
installation after going to the airport.
Good luck,
Jerry
RV-8A
Having too much fun flying to stop and paint!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell wrench?
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> I'll probably wind up doing exactly that, as I haven't been able to locate
one
> of Hartzell's special adapters. Did you have any trouble clearing the aft
> spinner bulkhead while torquing those bolts?
>
> Regards,
> Ken
>
> Jerry Carter wrote:
>
> >
> > We used a crowfoot wrench attached to the torque wrench to tighten
these
> > bolts.
> >
> > Jerry Carter
> > RV-8A
> > 55 hrs
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Hartzell wrench?
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
> > > owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
> > > Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
> > > $225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
> > > often (hopefully).
> > >
> > > Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for
a
> > > few days? Much appreciated!!
> > >
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > > Ken Balch
> > > Ashland, MA
> > > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> > > installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
> > > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Master Switch Wiring |
Dear Listers
why does the master switch send a ground to the master relay? why doesn't it
send power to the relay? ( i know the power feeds 1 side of the coil
internally, but why does it feed the power side internally instead of the
ground internally) since the switches send power to everything else. it is
the only thing that i can think of that the ground gets switched.theres got
to be a good reason.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: all electric panel |
Dear Listers
how do you guys with all electric panels set up your gyros? when you turn on
the master, does the gyros whinned up? if so, with a low battery, wouldn't
that damage the electric gyros. or do you start the engine and use another
switch to turn on the gyros? i found out today, with a low battery, tring to
start my engine, the gyros were trying to start to. i think i should dedicate
a switch for the gyros after the engine is started.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Switch Wiring |
Scott;
Wired in this manner there are NO live wires in the aircraft beyond the master
relay. If you fed
power to the master relay through a switch then all of the wiring up to that switch
would be live
all of the time with no way to turn it off.
Bob McC
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear Listers
> why does the master switch send a ground to the master relay? why doesn't it
> send power to the relay? ( i know the power feeds 1 side of the coil
> internally, but why does it feed the power side internally instead of the
> ground internally) since the switches send power to everything else. it is
> the only thing that i can think of that the ground gets switched.theres got
> to be a good reason.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Listers
So many questions tonight, sorry. where are you guys getting your power to
run your electric trim system? my load center panel doesn't have a switch
dedicated for this. it would power up the stick grip and run the flaps, auto
pilot disconnect, elevator and aileron trim.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel Pump... |
So do all their throttle cables...
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Facet Fuel Pump...
>
> Just an observation...
>
> Opened my Facet Fuel pump from Vans today and started to read the
> instructions and one of the first things says: "Not for use in Aircraft".
> I guess just about everyone has used these automotive pumps, but for my
own
> edification, why do they put this in the paperwork? Liability? Design?
????
>
> Kurt in OKC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Las Cruces (very long) |
Yep..lots of great airplanes, and had a good time checking them out. People
were kind sparse, didn't get a chance to meet everyone. We flew in Saturday
morning, and planned on staying the entire day, but then got word that Class
B was going to be shut down in Phoenix due to the world series game. We had
to be on the ground by 3:30, so we had to leave the fly in about 2:00. Not
enough time to get to meet everyone. I think the airport is a good place
for a fly in of a large magnitude, and the central location to alot of
RV'ers in the west and central areas make for a nice place to congregate.
Is this going to be an annual occasion? If so, hopefully food vendors and
such could be brought in to support the large crowd. (The 1 hour wait at
the restaurant was the only downfall, really. Not their fault, they were
not used to having this many people/airplanes there.)
The flight back was great. Flew back with Primal Fear, the black and
purple, skull covered G202 that is plastered on every magazine in the
aviation world. Also flew back with Andy Russel in his -6. 3 ship
formation with an occasional roll, and snapping pics of Primal Fear inverted
was really cool. The hefty tail wind helped push us along at 210 MPH. Life
was definitely good.
Too bad it was too short. Next year will have to be a Friday to Sunday
event if the fly in is expanded with added support and events. Flour bomb
contests? RV squadron fly-by? Vendor booths? Who knows.
Hopefully by this time next year we will have many more first flight
reports of RV's that we can talk about at the fly in.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Master Switch Wiring |
Scott,
A switch does not "send" power or ground.
For a DC circuit to function (negative ground design for the techie's here);
an electrical path must be created between the positive lead of the battery,
flowing to the load to be powered (i.e. a motor or master relay), and then
flowing to ground (the negative battery lead).
Think of the wires as a "pipe" for electricity. Electricity (think of it as
water for the following example) flows from a pipe attached high on a
hillside water tank (the positive battery lead), down to the device to be
powered (i.e. the water wheel or relay), and another pipe carries the flow
down to a stream at ground level (the negative battery lead).
As long as the pipe is intact all along the flow path, the water wheel will
turn. If you break the pipe anywhere (up at the water tank or down by the
stream), the water wheel (or relay in this case) will no longer turn.
A switch is what causes the "pipe" to break in an electrical circuit. It
can be placed either at the positive lead going to the electrical device (up
at the water tower), or going from the device down the the stream (the
battery negative lead or ground).
A switch simply turns the pipe on or off. May I suggest getting a copy of
Bob Nuckoll's excellent book explaining everything from basic electricity
and then onto advanced system design at www.aeroelectric.com.
Hope this helps.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 4:44 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Master Switch Wiring
>
>
> Dear Listers
> why does the master switch send a ground to the master relay? why
> doesn't it
> send power to the relay? ( i know the power feeds 1 side of the coil
> internally, but why does it feed the power side internally instead of the
> ground internally) since the switches send power to everything
> else. it is
> the only thing that i can think of that the ground gets
> switched.theres got
> to be a good reason.
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Master Switch Wiring |
rob
i didn't mean to sound like i didn't know anything about electricity. in
fact it is 80 percent what i do for a living. i just didn't understand why
switch the ground? every other electrical device doesn't have the possibility
of arching, or electrocuting, or shorting out anything if something feel upon
it. thats why you should always switch the power side, to keep the voltage
from being present at the componet you are controlling. when it is switched
off, and something like a wire or anything conductive fell on it, it is
simply already ground and would not make an arch. if the power were present
because your switch turned off the ground, and the same wire or anything
conductive feel on it, you would have arching, shorting, and or electrocution
depending on the voltage you are working with. i have designed many
electrical circuitry, and have never switched a neutral, ground, negative,
common, for that exact reason.
but the reason of not having anything powered up from the master relay on,
and feeding the power side to the coil internally, makes since now that i
think about it. you contain all power between the battery and the short jump
to the master relay, when the switch is off.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell wrench? |
Remember that your torque reading will be in error due to the offset of the
crowsfoot. There's a formula for compensating for it which I don't have handy but
it should be included in the instructions for your wrench.
Dave
Ken Balch wrote:
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> I'll probably wind up doing exactly that, as I haven't been able to locate one
> of Hartzell's special adapters. Did you have any trouble clearing the aft
> spinner bulkhead while torquing those bolts?
>
> Regards,
> Ken
>
> Jerry Carter wrote:
>
> >
> > We used a crowfoot wrench attached to the torque wrench to tighten these
> > bolts.
> >
> > Jerry Carter
> > RV-8A
> > 55 hrs
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Hartzell wrench?
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
> > > owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
> > > Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
> > > $225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
> > > often (hopefully).
> > >
> > > Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for a
> > > few days? Much appreciated!!
> > >
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > > Ken Balch
> > > Ashland, MA
> > > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> > > installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
> > > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
For those of you interested in a low cost strobe power supply with
approximately the same output (in joules) as Whelen's top-of-the-line
HDA-CF cometflash system, check the archives for "Cometflash on a beer
budget". The Nova supply I got is about 1/3 the price of the Whelen,
with more flash modes and a better warranty (5 years). Some people have
stated that you can't get commercial vehicle strobe power supplies that
have the same output as aviation units but this is NOT TRUE! I have it
connected to Welen strobe heads....it is too powerful for the Aeroflash
strobe heads and would burn them up. Nova makes suitable strobe heads
but they'd have to be enclosed somehow....I wanted to mount them
externally on my wingtip so I got nice Whelen units from a salvage yard.
No point in rehashing the whole thing here, it's all in the archives.
Flash rates, joules per flash, amps, etc etc etc....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage...wings fitted today....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Master Switch Wiring |
In a message dated 10/28/01 4:46:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, racker(at)rmci.net
writes:
> For a DC circuit to function (negative ground design for the techie's here);
> an electrical path must be created between the positive lead of the
> battery,
> flowing to the load to be powered (i.e. a motor or master relay), and then
> flowing to ground (the negative battery lead).
>
> Think of the wires as a "pipe" for electricity. Electricity (think of it
> as
> water for the following example) flows from a pipe attached high on a
> hillside water tank (the positive battery lead), down to the device to be
> powered (i.e. the water wheel or relay), and another pipe carries the flow
> down to a stream at ground level (the negative battery lead).
>
>
Actually I believe it's the other way around, with ground (negative) being
the source of current (electrons) and holes for these electrons flowing in
the opposite direction from positive. This applies except inside a battery.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Master Switch Wiring |
And if you really want to confuse everyone, make sure you tell them that the
electrons flow from the negative pole to the positive pole. Just the
opposite of what most think.
Bruce
"Techie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob A
Subject: RE: RV-List: Master Switch Wiring
Scott,
A switch does not "send" power or ground.
For a DC circuit to function (negative ground design for the techie's here);
an electrical path must be created between the positive lead of the battery,
flowing to the load to be powered (i.e. a motor or master relay), and then
flowing to ground (the negative battery lead).
Think of the wires as a "pipe" for electricity. Electricity (think of it as
water for the following example) flows from a pipe attached high on a
hillside water tank (the positive battery lead), down to the device to be
powered (i.e. the water wheel or relay), and another pipe carries the flow
down to a stream at ground level (the negative battery lead).
As long as the pipe is intact all along the flow path, the water wheel will
turn. If you break the pipe anywhere (up at the water tank or down by the
stream), the water wheel (or relay in this case) will no longer turn.
A switch is what causes the "pipe" to break in an electrical circuit. It
can be placed either at the positive lead going to the electrical device (up
at the water tower), or going from the device down the the stream (the
battery negative lead or ground).
A switch simply turns the pipe on or off. May I suggest getting a copy of
Bob Nuckoll's excellent book explaining everything from basic electricity
and then onto advanced system design at www.aeroelectric.com.
Hope this helps.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 87" report |
Greetings,
As you may recall, my -8 has an O-360 with Ellison TBI and Lightspeed
ignition, and I recently sent my 85" Sensenich prop off for a repitch to
87". Now that the prop is back on the plane, and I've flown it some, here
are the less-than-complete results.
Static RPM with the 85" was 2100 at sea level, and the 87" prop is 2025 RPM.
Best cruise speed with the 85" was 174 kts at 8500 ft which was RPM limited.
Best cruise at 8500 with the 87" prop was 179 kts. This is still RPM
limited. I was able to produce 2730 RPM at 8500 with the 87" prop. This
test was done in formation with another RV-8, that's equipped with a 180 hp
engine (plus Lightspeed ignition) and a CS prop. The results- I can outrun
him by 3-4 kts! We just won't talk about climb :-)
This past weekend, I traveled to the Mecca of rotary powered aircraft (AKA
Tracy Crooks fly-in), which was a 3 hour round trip with about a 40 kt wind
at altitude. I ran as hard as I could, and saw 217 kts ground speed on the
way there. This was at 9500 ft and about 2680 RPM. I'm still not able to
run full throttle without redlining the engine, but there's certainly more
power being used to turn the same RPM, because I'm burning about one GPH
more fuel than before. The return trip... Ugh, 135-150 kts at various
altitudes.
I haven't done any official climb testing, but noticed that I was still
getting 1400 FPM at 100 kts, 3000 ft, solo with full fuel. That's still
pretty good in my book, though it's nothing compared to what some CS props
can get.
Bottom line- it was a good change, and I don't feel like 87" is over pitched
by any definition. If you're using these numbers for comparison, make sure
you remember that the Lightspeed ignition and Ellison probably add 10-15 HP,
so your results may vary. Then again, get a Lightspeed, because that's where
the majority of the HP comes from, and it's the best mod you can make.
That's all folks. Now I need to find a project to install a rotary engine
in. Anyone know of a nice cheap RV-3 project? While I'm dreaming, make it
close to Florida :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Yet more LOE fly-in stories |
>Listers:
>
>I just got back from the first Las Cruces (Land of Enchantment) fly-in a
>couple of hours ago. It was a real nice time.
>
Amen, brother Pardue! As your fellow New Mexican RV'er from the northern
region (Albeqwerky), I also had a totally fabulous time. Perfect weather, a
no-hassle, relaxed atmosphere and great banquet food and entertainment. Who
could ask for more? Red is certainly a most interesting guy, and certainly
could excel at either used car sales or game show hosting. What a cool cat.
It was nice to see the SoCal guys, complete with Laird "Decoy" Owens and
Gary "hood ornament" Sobek. Oh, and let's not forget "Rosie" Rosales;
Somebody has to keep those other two characters from knocking the Earth off
it's axis in some way, shape or form.
The Ziliks where there to represent the Colorado fleet in a most bold and
splendid manner. I am now 100% convinced that an RV6 can fit a VERRRY tall
(read: leggy) passenger! The Coles showed off ole Red White and Blue to
great effect. Terry, your airplane should be on the cover of Time magazine.
Talk about patriotism!
Paul "Howitzer" Besing was seen with Kitlog copies in hand. Too bad most
attendees were already flying instead of building, but just wait until the
next EAA regional! Cha chiiiing!
I owe my ground transportation to the able navigating (cough, wink) of Larry
"who needs a GPS?" Pardue. We did find my hotel...eventually. ;) A comment
from the back seat was heard from Judy Stocks..."THREE certified pilots and
TWO GPS units and we're LOST?!"
Oh yes, a great time was had by all and I can only see this event as getting
bigger each year. This is good, and bad. It still has an informal feel to
it which I personally really like, but it's hard to keep such a good thing
quiet.
Sunday morning I flew out to the War Eagles Air Museum at Santa Theresa with
Norm Schippers (RV6) off my wing. Great museum, even though I've seen it a
few times before. It still deserves a visit if you're in the El Paso area.
We made it home to Albuquerque mere minutes before a HUUUUGE T-storm nailed
Double Eagle airport. Just as me and my passenger exited my airplane in
front of my hangar, a VERY loud thunderclap was heard overhead and all I
heard Shawn say was "Get AWAY from the metal airplane!!!" Great kid, and I
can see an RV in his future.
Time for bed and the start of another work week. *sigh*
Is this a great country or what?! :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
265 hrs of wacky, nutty RV fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6QB elevator attach.
I am in the process of attaching the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer.
Both elevators mount nicely to their respective sides. Hinge bolts slip
effortlessly into all three holes. Both are moving freely on the hinge.
But when I tighten up the common bolt through the center bearing, the system
offers more resistance to movement. I figure the elevator should move
freely rather than with a slight drag (Not an actual binding, just not
free). Anyways, I am not sure how to correct this since I am not even sure
where the problem is. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Master Switch Wiring |
My mistake, negative to positive is correct. Now, where does the switch go
?
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
> Actually I believe it's the other way around, with ground
> (negative) being
> the source of current (electrons) and holes for these electrons
> flowing in
> the opposite direction from positive. This applies except inside
> a battery.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
--- Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6QB elevator attach.
>
> I am in the process of attaching the elevators to the horizontal
> stabilizer.
> Both elevators mount nicely to their respective sides. Hinge bolts
> slip
> effortlessly into all three holes. Both are moving freely on the
> hinge.
> But when I tighten up the common bolt through the center bearing, the
> system
> offers more resistance to movement.
Remember that line you strung through all the elevator hinge bolt holes
centering on each?
Sounds like the stab (or at least mounts) is no longer true. You might
re-check that.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
> Howdy--
>
> I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
> definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
> expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure areas
> of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
> them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
>
> How dat be???
>
> Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front side
> of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
> needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of a
> prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should it
> keep the bugs away?
>
> And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
>
> Boyd
> Super 6
Hi Boyd,
Actually, I would offer an alternative explanation, it sounds like the bugs
ARE flying faster than you. In fact, it would appear they are flying
sufficiently faster than you that they are able catch up with and to smash
themselves on the back side of your propeller blades. WELL, that is one
possible explanation {:>).
Actually, my opinion (in lieu of scientific data), I think the blade does
not necessarily pull the bug around to the back side to swat it. I think if
you visualize the prop as it it turns that the back side of the prop always
proceeds the front side of the prop as it turns in the circle. So if you
were stationary in a bug filled room with the spinning prop the back side
would be cutting a swath through the bug layer with only a few flying into
the front blade of the prop. In fact, they would have to accelerate to a
radial speed at least slightly exceeding the radial velocity of a part of
the front of the prop. Then of course the bug would more than likely elect
to aim for the slowest moving part of the prop near the hub where of course
the impact damage would be minimal. Its unlikely the bug could catch the
out part of the front side of the blade as it would be traveling close to
sonic. Ergo, bugs would have to work much harder to kill them selves on the
front side of the blade, wereas they would simply have to wait for the back
side of the blade to swat them. I predicit bugs will probably take the
lowest energy course to their demise and wait for the back side of the prop
rather than frantically chasing the front side of the blade to crash into.
Whew. I trust this argument has sufficient scientific rigor to satisfy the
most casual observer {:>)
Really like you Super 6
Ed Anderson
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
Does the center bolt fit through the horns and bearing without binding? If
so, I'd check to make sure there isn't any gap between the elevator horns
and the center bearing. Make sure that you have the proper amount of
washers and a snug fit so that tightening the bolt doesn't pull the horns
into the bearing at any kind of angle.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Both elevators mount nicely to their respective sides. Hinge bolts slip
> effortlessly into all three holes. Both are moving freely on the hinge.
> But when I tighten up the common bolt through the center bearing, the
system
> offers more resistance to movement. I figure the elevator should move
> freely rather than with a slight drag (Not an actual binding, just not
> free). Anyways, I am not sure how to correct this since I am not even
sure
> where the problem is. Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet more LOE fly-in stories |
Lost in Las Cruces; Sounds like a great travel story to me. Can't wait to
hear the whole story. Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: all electric panel |
Scott,
I have switched circuit breakers, one for each gyro, just as Boyd describes,
and for the same reasons. Once my engine starts I flip on my avionics master
and both gyro switches, they're all right in a row.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
>
> With an all electric panel, I would put each gyro on its own ON-OFF
> switch/CB. That way if one of them starts going south you can shut it
> off and keep your remaining working instruments, esp. since you're going
> to be flying IFR. A wandering gyro can be a fatal distraction. Tho
> electric gyros are SUPPOSED to be more reliable than vacuum instruments,
> if I were flying them I would never bet money on it.
>
> My MASTER powers the main buss and after start-up, I power up the
> ALTERNATOR and after the voltage has stabilizied--some alternators need
> a minimum rpm to put out full power--, the RADIOS/NAV and each GYRO.
> Then the individual radios/GPS are turned on, followed by the STROBES
> (and if needed POSITION LIGHTS). Strobes, POS lights and Landing/Taxi
> lights all have their own switch/CB. You'll also need one for your
> heated pitot and your automatic prop/windshield/wing GLYCOL DISPENSER
> (joking!!!) The Voltmeter (VM-1000) has a warning for both low and
> over-voltage and the ammeter tells me that what I switched on is drawing
> the correct current and working.
>
> Think of the Master Relay as your hot wire terminus. The switch tells
> the relay to supply the power but the power does not go thru the switch.
>
> Boyd
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers
> > how do you guys with all electric panels set up your gyros? when you
turn on
> > the master, does the gyros whinned up? if so, with a low battery,
wouldn't
> > that damage the electric gyros. or do you start the engine and use
another
> > switch to turn on the gyros? i found out today, with a low battery,
tring to
> > start my engine, the gyros were trying to start to. i think i should
dedicate
> > a switch for the gyros after the engine is started.
> > scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller |
That's pretty much what I got. The best way to figure it out is to do like
I did. I went out and looked at my prop from the bug's point of view
(before smashing of course). Stand in line with the prop on its right side
and imagine it spinning toward you. You will see that you cannot see the
front, only the back because of the pitch. Just my theory . . .
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying 3 hours now, had to stop and install the wheel pants
and gear leg fairings)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bug splats on BACK of propeller
>
>
> > Howdy--
> >
> > I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
> > definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
> > expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure areas
> > of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
> > them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
> >
> > How dat be???
> >
> > Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front side
> > of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
> > needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of a
> > prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should it
> > keep the bugs away?
> >
> > And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
> >
> > Boyd
> > Super 6
>
>
> Hi Boyd,
>
> Actually, I would offer an alternative explanation, it sounds like the
bugs
> ARE flying faster than you. In fact, it would appear they are flying
> sufficiently faster than you that they are able catch up with and to smash
> themselves on the back side of your propeller blades. WELL, that is one
> possible explanation {:>).
>
> Actually, my opinion (in lieu of scientific data), I think the blade does
> not necessarily pull the bug around to the back side to swat it. I think
if
> you visualize the prop as it it turns that the back side of the prop
always
> proceeds the front side of the prop as it turns in the circle. So if you
> were stationary in a bug filled room with the spinning prop the back side
> would be cutting a swath through the bug layer with only a few flying
into
> the front blade of the prop. In fact, they would have to accelerate to a
> radial speed at least slightly exceeding the radial velocity of a part of
> the front of the prop. Then of course the bug would more than likely
elect
> to aim for the slowest moving part of the prop near the hub where of
course
> the impact damage would be minimal. Its unlikely the bug could catch the
> out part of the front side of the blade as it would be traveling close to
> sonic. Ergo, bugs would have to work much harder to kill them selves on
the
> front side of the blade, wereas they would simply have to wait for the
back
> side of the blade to swat them. I predicit bugs will probably take the
> lowest energy course to their demise and wait for the back side of the
prop
> rather than frantically chasing the front side of the blade to crash into.
>
> Whew. I trust this argument has sufficient scientific rigor to satisfy
the
> most casual observer {:>)
>
> Really like you Super 6
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
Ed is correct. I had the same problem in that when I tightened the center
bolt my elevator forces increased. I added a washer in there and it fixed
it.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Attach
>
> Does the center bolt fit through the horns and bearing without binding?
If
> so, I'd check to make sure there isn't any gap between the elevator horns
> and the center bearing. Make sure that you have the proper amount of
> washers and a snug fit so that tightening the bolt doesn't pull the horns
> into the bearing at any kind of angle.
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> Eagle, ID
> ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
> > Both elevators mount nicely to their respective sides. Hinge bolts slip
> > effortlessly into all three holes. Both are moving freely on the hinge.
> > But when I tighten up the common bolt through the center bearing, the
> system
> > offers more resistance to movement. I figure the elevator should move
> > freely rather than with a slight drag (Not an actual binding, just not
> > free). Anyways, I am not sure how to correct this since I am not even
> sure
> > where the problem is. Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug splats on BACK of propeller?!!! |
Ed, Boyd, Eric, and any others that have or might yet contribute to this
current string.
Theories about bug splats on props!!
Is this what happens to you people that finish your kits and go flying.
Is it the altitude that does it?
That can't to be the cause. The Spam can people don't seem to react like
that to flying!
Could it be the effect of being repeatedly subjected to unusually high rates
of climb?
It could be what happens to us when we finish our RV's and sit down to tally
up the overall expenses.
Maybe its a new kind of RV builders withdrawal reaction.
If that's the case there is only one thing that seems sensible to do about
it!
Call Vans first thing in the morning and order another kit.
Don't sit there gawking at the computer get busy, fill out an order, go on,
do it, do it now!!
Oh and would you please remember to put my name on the form that asks who
put you up to ordering a Van's RV kit.
Oh Yah! thanks, {;-) !
Jim in Kelowna - Almost finished the canopy(slider)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bug splats on BACK of propeller
>
> That's pretty much what I got. The best way to figure it out is to do
like
> I did. I went out and looked at my prop from the bug's point of view
> (before smashing of course). Stand in line with the prop on its right
side
> and imagine it spinning toward you. You will see that you cannot see the
> front, only the back because of the pitch. Just my theory . . .
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying 3 hours now, had to stop and install the wheel pants
> and gear leg fairings)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bug splats on BACK of propeller
>
>
> >
> >
> > > Howdy--
> > >
> > > I was cleaning up after my last x-country and began to ponder the
> > > definite bug parts that were splatted on the back side of my prop. I
> > > expect them on the leading edges of airfoils and on high pressure
areas
> > > of the cowl and fuselage, but the back side of the prop? I've noticed
> > > them all my life, but never pondered the seeming paradox of this.
> > >
> > > How dat be???
> > >
> > > Theory: To develop thrust, the low pressure has to be on the front
side
> > > of the prop and the high pressure on the backside, just like a wing
> > > needs a pressure differential to lift. Can the pressure difference of
a
> > > prop turning make a bug be sucked around to the backside?--or should
it
> > > keep the bugs away?
> > >
> > > And, yes, I'm flying faster than the bugs.
> > >
> > > Boyd
> > > Super 6
> >
> >
> > Hi Boyd,
> >
> > Actually, I would offer an alternative explanation, it sounds like the
> bugs
> > ARE flying faster than you. In fact, it would appear they are flying
> > sufficiently faster than you that they are able catch up with and to
smash
> > themselves on the back side of your propeller blades. WELL, that is one
> > possible explanation {:>).
> >
> > Actually, my opinion (in lieu of scientific data), I think the blade
does
> > not necessarily pull the bug around to the back side to swat it. I think
> if
> > you visualize the prop as it it turns that the back side of the prop
> always
> > proceeds the front side of the prop as it turns in the circle. So if you
> > were stationary in a bug filled room with the spinning prop the back
side
> > would be cutting a swath through the bug layer with only a few flying
> into
> > the front blade of the prop. In fact, they would have to accelerate to
a
> > radial speed at least slightly exceeding the radial velocity of a part
of
> > the front of the prop. Then of course the bug would more than likely
> elect
> > to aim for the slowest moving part of the prop near the hub where of
> course
> > the impact damage would be minimal. Its unlikely the bug could catch
the
> > out part of the front side of the blade as it would be traveling close
to
> > sonic. Ergo, bugs would have to work much harder to kill them selves on
> the
> > front side of the blade, wereas they would simply have to wait for the
> back
> > side of the blade to swat them. I predicit bugs will probably take the
> > lowest energy course to their demise and wait for the back side of the
> prop
> > rather than frantically chasing the front side of the blade to crash
into.
> >
> > Whew. I trust this argument has sufficient scientific rigor to satisfy
> the
> > most casual observer {:>)
> >
> > Really like you Super 6
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Andair Valve in engine compartment |
I was wondering if anyone has used the Andair valve with their
extension. I am currently building an RV-3 with fuel injection. I
recall when I built an RV-6A that there was a lot of fuel lines, pump,
valve, etc in the cockpit. Seems like placing the selector on the
instrument panel and using their extensions to locate the actual valve
FWF would have some definate advantages:
1) The fuel selector would be more visable on the panel
2) Significantly shorter and simpler piping runs (for example, from
purge valve to tank selector valve would be a couple of feet)
3) Moving lines, valve and pump to FWF would unclutter the cockpit and
reduce the chance for a fuel leak in the cockpit.
Any thoughts out there?
Rick Fogerson, RV-3 empenage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Consumption - Air oil Separators |
Has anyone used the new air/oil separator shown on Vans site. It is
considerably less expensive at something like $139 than the M-20 products
separator at $279?
For what its worth, my 0-320 blows off however much oil is above 6 qts in
the first 4 hours, then once at 6 qts, consumes about 1 qt per 15 hrs.
Don Mei
23 Kings Lane
Essex, CT 06426
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Consumption - Air oil Separators |
>
>Has anyone used the new air/oil separator shown on Vans site. It is
>considerably less expensive at something like $139 than the M-20 products
>separator at $279?
>
There was a separator called "The Slime Fighter" that was featured in the
3rd issue, 2001 RVator. Is this the same thing?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Whelen vs. Whelen and others |
There's been a lot of discussion of Whelen vs X-brand strobes. Just a
couple of thoughts. I am based at Chester CT. About 500 feet from Whelen
engineering. Many of the pilots are whelen employees, we are pretty well
connected with what is going on there. Every Whelen employee I have spoken
to said the same thing: That their public safety power supplies are the
same items as the aviation supplies, minus the parts tracking required for
certification. Just compare the watt usage and Joule output and you are
looking at the same supply for a lot less.
Another item has to do with "other" supplies. Since I live in the strobe
capitol of the world, it isn't unexpected that some employees from Whelen
would leave and start their own company. That is the case with Nova. They
make supplies, among other things, that are comparable to whelen. I
purchased a supply that would drive 2 strobes and was encapsulated in epoxy
for total water and vibration resistance for about $100. It is capable of
generating either a Whelen "comet" style burst or any of several other
patterns, including a random pattern.
I'm not knocking Whelen. For the guy who wants the best, there is no
better, but for a guy who has to build on a budget, there are other great
alternatives.
They are at:
www.strobe.com
They also make a solid state flsehre that could be used for landing lights.
D
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly, most
of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we tightened
them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
overcame it mainly with shim washers.
Most of the control horns will deform slightly under full torque if not
carefully shimmed. When there is a slight gap in a U-fitting, torquing the
hinge AN3 bolt to 25 in-lbs will cause the U to close in, and the projection
of the nice-fitting round hole becomes an ellipse, whose minor axis is now
an interference fit to the AN3 bolt shaft.
In a coupe of cases, I found that less than specified bolt torque was
required to obtain binding-free movement. The elevators should droop to
full down when released.
While inspecting RVs before first flight, I and my fellow builders in the
area disqualify any plane that does not have silky-smooth control action.
The plane is doubless safe with binding controls, but we feel that a
conscientious builder should eliminate binding.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Attach
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6QB elevator attach.
>
> I am in the process of attaching the elevators to the horizontal
stabilizer.
> Both elevators mount nicely to their respective sides. Hinge bolts slip
> effortlessly into all three holes. Both are moving freely on the hinge.
> But when I tighten up the common bolt through the center bearing, the
system
> offers more resistance to movement. I figure the elevator should move
> freely rather than with a slight drag (Not an actual binding, just not
> free). Anyways, I am not sure how to correct this since I am not even
sure
> where the problem is. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
> final assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re:master switch |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
All,
If you haven't already done so, please *completely* ignore my post
regarding Scott's question on master switch wiring. Reading it again this
morning after some obviously much needed sleep, I realized what sleepless
drivel I had posted.
DC flows from negative to positive, and if you break the pipe going from
the water wheel to the stream the wheel still turns (thanks E.B. ).
Rob Acker (back to wiring if you can believe it...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. White" <rascalf16(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report |
I'm new on the list having had my RV8 for just over a week now. I have
always wanted one and traded my Mooney in. Just never had time to build.
I have a 85" Sensinich prop on my plane and find that at cruise altitudes, I
cannot run but about 60% power to keep it under 2700 rpm. Have been
considering having the prop repitched to 87 also. Good to hear your
comments. However, my prop was repitched once by the previous builder/owner
and I've heard that the props can only be repitched one time. Is this true?
Maybe I could get something for a trade-in if I decided to go that route?
Thanks for the good info on your experience. Some people have told me just
to run it at 2800-2900 rpm but I would rather accept the 5-10mph slower
cruise than put the additional stress on the engine. Besides, at 60% power,
I'm really conserving fuel too.
On another note. The oil pressure line going from the engine to the
transducer mounted on the firewall is a small copper line with a compression
fitting on the engine end. It has one loop in it before connecting to the
transducer mounted on the firewall. Comming on the ramp last week that line
broke at the compression fitting and oil pressure went to zero, of course.
Shut the engine down immediatlely but still lost about two qts of oil on the
ramp. It was an easy fix but I know this will probably happen again if I
keep this set up. I read the construction manual and it recommends a
flexible hose which I'm going to get. Any recommendations? I found a hose
shop locally that can get the hose for me in a couple of days. I just need
to let them know the type fittings on either end. I'm going to take the
copper one off and take it to them. Going to do the same thing for the fuel
pressure line too. BTW, they say the hose is made by aeroquip too. I
forgot to ask them if I can get a restrictor in the hose as Van's suggest.
If not, I think I can fabricate some type of restrictor to prevent a massive
amount of oil loss if the situation ever happens again. I was amazed how
much oil came out of that little 1/8" hose in such a short time.
Oh well, thanks for any suggestions ahead of time and looking forward to
being apart of this list.
Fly Safe and Check Six!
Johnny White
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy
Subject: RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy"
Greetings,
As you may recall, my -8 has an O-360 with Ellison TBI and Lightspeed
ignition, and I recently sent my 85" Sensenich prop off for a repitch to
87". Now that the prop is back on the plane, and I've flown it some, here
are the less-than-complete results.
Static RPM with the 85" was 2100 at sea level, and the 87" prop is 2025 RPM.
Best cruise speed with the 85" was 174 kts at 8500 ft which was RPM limited.
Best cruise at 8500 with the 87" prop was 179 kts. This is still RPM
limited. I was able to produce 2730 RPM at 8500 with the 87" prop. This
test was done in formation with another RV-8, that's equipped with a 180 hp
engine (plus Lightspeed ignition) and a CS prop. The results- I can outrun
him by 3-4 kts! We just won't talk about climb :-)
This past weekend, I traveled to the Mecca of rotary powered aircraft (AKA
Tracy Crooks fly-in), which was a 3 hour round trip with about a 40 kt wind
at altitude. I ran as hard as I could, and saw 217 kts ground speed on the
way there. This was at 9500 ft and about 2680 RPM. I'm still not able to
run full throttle without redlining the engine, but there's certainly more
power being used to turn the same RPM, because I'm burning about one GPH
more fuel than before. The return trip... Ugh, 135-150 kts at various
altitudes.
I haven't done any official climb testing, but noticed that I was still
getting 1400 FPM at 100 kts, 3000 ft, solo with full fuel. That's still
pretty good in my book, though it's nothing compared to what some CS props
can get.
Bottom line- it was a good change, and I don't feel like 87" is over pitched
by any definition. If you're using these numbers for comparison, make sure
you remember that the Lightspeed ignition and Ellison probably add 10-15 HP,
so your results may vary. Then again, get a Lightspeed, because that's where
the majority of the HP comes from, and it's the best mod you can make.
That's all folks. Now I need to find a project to install a rotary engine
in. Anyone know of a nice cheap RV-3 project? While I'm dreaming, make it
close to Florida :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
If the elevators are properly statically balanced why should they droop full
down upon release? Wouldn't that indicate an UNbalance?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting senders |
Does anyone have any pictures of their oil and fuel pressure transducers
mounted to the fire wall. I would appreciate pictures or even verbal
descriptions of the best way to do this.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report |
Johnny and all,
This is a good subject that I felt I should address:
>>However, my prop was repitched once by the previous builder/owner
and I've heard that the props can only be repitched one time. Is this true?
Actually this is not true. We allow for a total of 8 inches that a propeller
can be pitched. All 72FM series propellers are manufactured as 83 pitches.
If you receive an 85 pitch from us, it has been raised 2 inches. If you send
us an 83 or an 85 (as Rusty did) and we raise it to an 87, that would be the
same as ordering an 87 brand new from us, because we are still pitching up 4
inches from the original forging pitch. At that point we have gone up 4
inches of total pitch. We could conceivably repitch that same propeller back
down to an 83 which would give us the final 8 total inches that we allow. I
hope that my explanation makes sense and clears that up.
On a specific note to Johnny: I have to assume that either your engine is
producing more then 180 HP or you have some tach error. I would bet on the
tach error. Before pitching the propeller, I would recommend having the tach
calibrated. Most local FBO's or prop shops can do this very easily. Don't be
surprised if they tell you that are showing a lower RPM then actual. This is
always a good practice for everyone to adhere to.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report |
Johnny and all,
This is a good subject that I felt I should address:
>>However, my prop was repitched once by the previous builder/owner
and I've heard that the props can only be repitched one time. Is this true?
Actually this is not true. We allow for a total of 8 inches that a propeller
can be pitched. All 72FM series propellers are manufactured as 83 pitches.
If you receive an 85 pitch from us, it has been raised 2 inches. If you send
us an 83 or an 85 (as Rusty did) and we raise it to an 87, that would be the
same as ordering an 87 brand new from us, because we are still pitching up 4
inches from the original forging pitch. At that point we have gone up 4
inches of total pitch. We could conceivably repitch that same propeller back
down to an 83 which would give us the final 8 total inches that we allow. I
hope that my explanation makes sense and clears that up.
On a specific note to Johnny: I have to assume that either your engine is
producing more then 180 HP or you have some tach error. I would bet on the
tach error. Before pitching the propeller, I would recommend having the tach
calibrated. Most local FBO's or prop shops can do this very easily. Don't be
surprised if they tell you that are showing a lower RPM then actual. This is
always a good practice for everyone to adhere to.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting senders |
larry
picture Vans blue anodized manifold, mounted in the upper center of the
firewall, with the fuel pressure sender on the left side, the oil pressure
sender on the right side, with the oil pressure switch in the middle port. it
just works out great this way. the oil and fuel lines are not long and makes
a neat installation. if you can wait a week i'll have some pictures of mine
available.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Q. for Ed Zercher; was Sensenich 87" report |
Ed: thanks for popping up on the list. We've corresponded before. I know
my question will be of interest to many others on the list, so I will post it
publicly.
Revisiting the RV-6/150-160 HP Sensenich RPM limitation thing: any progress
with the new tests we had hoped might raise the redline limit or dismiss the
vibration concerns? I figure since we never heard back that the testing was
not yet repeated or else the results were not favorable, but I thought I'd
ask.
I have an O-320 that recently got bumped from 150 to 160 hp, and you
mentioned coarsening the pitch might be the right thing to do. I will have
to wait until I get the new improved wheel pants and fairings installed
before I address that question. I expect with the go-fast goodies in place,
it will want to bump into the 2600 rpm redline more readily.
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Q. for Ed Zercher; was Sensenich 87" report |
I'm not Ed but I can respond as I read reports posted around June (can't
remember for sure) that stated the restriction was going to have to remain
in force. The harmonic vibration about the restriction still exists.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Q. for Ed Zercher; was Sensenich 87" report
Ed: thanks for popping up on the list. We've corresponded before. I know
my question will be of interest to many others on the list, so I will post
it
publicly.
Revisiting the RV-6/150-160 HP Sensenich RPM limitation thing: any progress
with the new tests we had hoped might raise the redline limit or dismiss the
vibration concerns? I figure since we never heard back that the testing was
not yet repeated or else the results were not favorable, but I thought I'd
ask.
I have an O-320 that recently got bumped from 150 to 160 hp, and you
mentioned coarsening the pitch might be the right thing to do. I will have
to wait until I get the new improved wheel pants and fairings installed
before I address that question. I expect with the go-fast goodies in place,
it will want to bump into the 2600 rpm redline more readily.
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Q. for Ed Zercher; was Sensenich 87' report |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Match: #4 Message: #90444 From: "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: Senenich Propeller Date: Jul 27, 2001
Harvey is correct. I just got back from Oshkosh so I was not able to publish
this until now. I received word from Ken while at Oshkosh that the 70CM data
has been finally broken down and read. The resonance that we saw several
years ago when the propeller was first released is indeed there. We had
suspected that it was caused be radio frequency interference; however, we
know now that it was indeed a resonance. Do not operate the 70CM series
propeller over 2600 RPM. As a reminder, and to avoid confusion, the 72FM
(O-360 prop) does NOT have a placard.
Sorry,
Ed Zercher
>
> I figure since we never heard back
> that the testing was not yet repeated or else the results were not
> favorable, but I thought I'd ask.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting senders |
>larry
>picture Vans blue anodized manifold, mounted in the upper center of the
>firewall, with the fuel pressure sender on the left side, the oil pressure
>sender on the right side, with the oil pressure switch in the middle port.
>it
>just works out great this way. the oil and fuel lines are not long and
>makes
>a neat installation. if you can wait a week i'll have some pictures of mine
>available.
>hope this helps
>scott
>tampa
I remember seeing a better photo on someone's website but I can't recall it
right now. There is a decent photo on Van's website in the pictures of his
2nd RV9A prototype:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-9prototype4.htm
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Q. for Ed Zercher; was Sensenich 87" report |
Bill,
We did retest the 70CM series propeller. Sorry we missed getting word to
you. Unfortunately our equipment was registering the harmonics properly the
first time. We got the exact same results the second time we tested. There
is a resonance above the 2600 plateau that cannot be ignored. The placard
must remain in place.
On the engine increase front. You will want to increase the pitch to turn
the HP into airspeed. However, you are also correct that the new wheel pants
will also make a difference. After you make the wheel pants change, contact
me to fly a few benchmarks and we will increase the pitch accordingly.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Contol Spacing was Flap switch location |
> I put mine in between the throttle and the carb heat control. The carb
heat
> control is located to the left of the throttle by about 5".
>
> -Glenn Gordon
This may be in the archives but I can't find it. What is the proper spacing
between the Throttle/Mixture/Prop?
Ross
Rv6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | CHT troubleshooting |
Hi listers!
I am still trying to figure out my high CHT problem on my #2 & #3 cylinders.
Set-up:
-RV-4 built to plans, newer prepreg type cowl
-Lycoming 320-E2D w/carb
-New ECI Classic Cast Cylinders (28hrs SMOH)
-4 EGT probes
-4 CHT bottom spark plug ring thermocouples
-4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for EGT
-4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for CHT
-Standard RV baffle right from Vans
The symptoms:
-On warm-up all cylinders rise to about 250, #3 slightly lower than the rest
-4-5 minute taxi, then 15 second Run-up at 1700rpm #2 and #3 quickly rise to
375-400 others lower than 350.
-Take-off climb at 110mph #3 rises to 475-500 by crosswind, #2 usually 25deg
lower
-#1 & #4 rise to about 400 max throughout take-off
-increasing speed to 140mph on climb only slightly lowers CHT (-20 deg)
-75% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at about 435 #2 at 410, all others at
350
-100% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at 465
-EGTs remain equal across all cylinders through-out taxi, run-up, take off
climb & cruise
-EGTs vary depending on power setting but range 1400 cruise to 1700 on climb
Things I've tried:
-Checked for leaks in baffle system, none found
-added small lip to bottom of cowl where exhaust exits to eliminate small
forward cut-out needed to fit around pipes
-Blocked off oil cooler at the baffle, cooler not needed because oil temps
stay very low (130 deg). I've found this is common in RV-4s.
-restricted dump air from exhaust heat exchanger when not in use.
-tested running heater air all to cabin on a cool day to eliminate air
introduced behind baffle
-Added a small wrap of aluminum around the #3 cylinder from the baffle to
the first push rod tube (I was told this would help by a well experienced
A&P)
-Ran each mag separately for a few minutes of cruise flight, only slight
decrease in CHT, along with expected increased EGT.
I'm not sure if I have an air flow problem on 2 Cylinders or a
engine/mixture problem across all cylinders. How big a CHT differential
between cylinders is seen on other RV-4s?
Nothing seems to make a difference in the temperatures, they continue to
read high no matter what I change. Are there other things I should be
checking? Does anyone have other suggestions?
If anyone could fill me in on all of the possible causes of a high reading
it would be a big help, guessing isn't working anymore!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
28 hrs on the tach
Running a little hot it the head, cool in the pan!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Don,
Part 27 is standard catergory rotorcraft and 29 is for transport catergory
rotorcraft.
Mike robertson
R-8A
>From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lights
>Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:06:48 -0500
>
What are parts 27 & 29 used for??
>
> I read some where that if you use the stobes all the time you will get
>better life from them.
>
>
>Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
>Arlington, Tx
>******************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Consumption - Air oil Separators |
Hi Don, I'm just installing the AS&S oil separator( after cutting a hole in it
and stuffing in Stainless steel scrubbies) on Casper, as I'm getting tired of
wiping oil of the belly, mostly from doing wifferdills, (that's sloppy aero)
but you can cut down on oil loss dramatically and save money by just filling
to the 5 or 6 Qt mark. The reason these engines have such a large oil capacity
is to meet a FAA requirement of so many hrs of operation, while using Lycoming
max oil use per hour spec. The minimum oil level in the crankcase for my
engine is two Qt.. I wouldn't start out with that little, but it shows what
Lycoming says is allowable.
I normally keep it between 5 & 6 and use maybe a Qt every 10 to 15 hrs, unless
I'm fooling around and then it uses more. It I fill it to the 8 Qt mark, the
first Qt is gone in an hour.
Garry "Casper"
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> Has anyone used the new air/oil separator shown on Vans site. It is
> considerably less expensive at something like $139 than the M-20 products
> separator at $279?
>
> For what its worth, my 0-320 blows off however much oil is above 6 qts in
> the first 4 hours, then once at 6 qts, consumes about 1 qt per 15 hrs.
>
> Don Mei
> 23 Kings Lane
> Essex, CT 06426
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT troubleshooting |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/29/2001 01:29:23 PM
Sounds like you better call ECI ASAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell wrench? |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Ken,
You never know when you may need that tool again. Trust me, I know.
Go into your toolbox and find your oldest 3/4" box wrench and cut the
closed end off. Then, find an old 3/8" socket and weld it to the
wrench you just hacked the end off of. Attach it to your torque wrench
and you will be able to get to the bolts on your prop. Turn the wrench
so it's perpendicular to the torque wrench's handle (90 degrees) when
torque-ing the bolts so you won't need to make any calculations to
compensate for the additional arm length.
While the bolts are snug before you do the final torque, run safety wire
through the roll pins; that way if you need to rotate the bolts to get
the wire through you won't need to re-torque. The wrench will fit
easily with the safety wire in there.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 235 hours
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm getting ready to mount my Hartzell prop and, according to the
> owner's manual, I need a torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts.
> Hartzell's part number for this item is BST-2860 and their price is
> $225. That's pretty steep for something I'm not going to need very
> often (hopefully).
>
> Does anyone who's already mounted their prop have one I can borrow for
a
> few days? Much appreciated!!
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> installing engine stuff - last 90% to go...
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT troubleshooting |
Pat, the first thing to do is check what the actual temperature is at the CHT
leads when they are reading around 450 F. The plug pick up point CHTs usually
run hotter than the well type, anywhere from 50 to 150 F. A couple of months ago
a friend of mines was me about the cooling problem he was having with his 450
Pratt powered Stearman. I suggested he change over to a well type sender,
problem went away. So you may not have a problem at all.
I personally haven't had much luck with Westach products and would not use them
again.
Garry "Casper"
Pat Perry wrote:
>
> Hi listers!
>
> I am still trying to figure out my high CHT problem on my #2 & #3 cylinders.
>
> Set-up:
> -RV-4 built to plans, newer prepreg type cowl
> -Lycoming 320-E2D w/carb
> -New ECI Classic Cast Cylinders (28hrs SMOH)
> -4 EGT probes
> -4 CHT bottom spark plug ring thermocouples
> -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for EGT
> -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for CHT
> -Standard RV baffle right from Vans
>
> The symptoms:
> -On warm-up all cylinders rise to about 250, #3 slightly lower than the rest
> -4-5 minute taxi, then 15 second Run-up at 1700rpm #2 and #3 quickly rise to
> 375-400 others lower than 350.
> -Take-off climb at 110mph #3 rises to 475-500 by crosswind, #2 usually 25deg
> lower
> -#1 & #4 rise to about 400 max throughout take-off
> -increasing speed to 140mph on climb only slightly lowers CHT (-20 deg)
> -75% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at about 435 #2 at 410, all others at
> 350
> -100% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at 465
> -EGTs remain equal across all cylinders through-out taxi, run-up, take off
> climb & cruise
> -EGTs vary depending on power setting but range 1400 cruise to 1700 on climb
>
> Things I've tried:
> -Checked for leaks in baffle system, none found
>
> -added small lip to bottom of cowl where exhaust exits to eliminate small
> forward cut-out needed to fit around pipes
>
> -Blocked off oil cooler at the baffle, cooler not needed because oil temps
> stay very low (130 deg). I've found this is common in RV-4s.
>
> -restricted dump air from exhaust heat exchanger when not in use.
>
> -tested running heater air all to cabin on a cool day to eliminate air
> introduced behind baffle
>
> -Added a small wrap of aluminum around the #3 cylinder from the baffle to
> the first push rod tube (I was told this would help by a well experienced
> A&P)
>
> -Ran each mag separately for a few minutes of cruise flight, only slight
> decrease in CHT, along with expected increased EGT.
>
> I'm not sure if I have an air flow problem on 2 Cylinders or a
> engine/mixture problem across all cylinders. How big a CHT differential
> between cylinders is seen on other RV-4s?
>
> Nothing seems to make a difference in the temperatures, they continue to
> read high no matter what I change. Are there other things I should be
> checking? Does anyone have other suggestions?
>
> If anyone could fill me in on all of the possible causes of a high reading
> it would be a big help, guessing isn't working anymore!
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
> 28 hrs on the tach
> Running a little hot it the head, cool in the pan!
> =========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | capacitance fuel level senders |
I am getting ready to build the fuel tanks for my RV8 and plan on installing
a flop tube to allow inverted flight. To eliminate any possible
interference with a float sender, capacitance senders seem like the logical
choice.
Can anyone recommend a source for a high quality sender that will work in
the RV8's tanks? Many seem to require access through the top of the tank
which obviously won't work. I haven't decided on which manufacturer's
gauges I will use, will the sender limit this or is a capacitance sender a
universal signal?
Thanks
Tracy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pictures of Las Cruces Fly-In |
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Hi Listers,
I've just posted the first 50 of the 278 pictures (and 5 video clips) I
took this weekend. They are at http://www.vansaircraft.net . Thanks
again to everyone that came - I had a wonderful time. It was really fun
to get to meet so many people that I only have talked to previously over
email.
Not all the pictures are good (many are blurred because I was in a plane
) and they are either 800x600 or 2,048x1,536 pixels. You may need to
resize some to your screen size if you want to make them 'wallpaper'.
I'll post another 50 tomorrow.
Red Marron said that the EAA 555 chapter at Las Cruces (who served
breakfast for those still there on Sunday morning) fed 257 people - more
than double their largest attendance to date.
Best regards,
Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
http://www.vansaircraft.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Brightness |
>The Whelen-vs-Aeroflash seems to be a recurring theme.
Here is an e-mail I sent to Aeroflash about a month ago. Their reply is in
all caps below...
> Hello,
>
> I'm building an airplane and would like to use your strobe lights on
>the wings and tail. Someone advised me that Aeroflash strobes do not meet
>current FAA regulations and can only be used on planes built before 1977.
>Is this true or can I use your strobes and still be in compliance with
>current FAA regulations?
DEAR MARK,
OUR LIGHTS ARE PMA'D ON SEVERAL DIFFERENT TYPES OF AIRCRAFT. WE ARE STILL
SUPPLYING THESE LIGHTS TO CESSNA AND SEVERAL OTHER VENDORS FOR USE IN NEW
AIRCRAFT.
WE HAVE SEVERAL NEW KITS THAT ARE DESIGNED FOR THE HOMEBUILT MARKET SO I'M
NOT REALLY SURE WHERE THIS STATEMENT REGARDING NOT MEETING FAA REGS IS
COMING FROM.
PLEASE REST ASSURED THAT OUR PRODUCTS ARE BEING INSTALLED ON MANY "NEW"
AIRCRAFT.
IF I CAN BE OF FURTHER ASSISTANCE PLEASE LET ME KNOW
PAT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: capacitance fuel level senders |
Why don't you just order the capacitance sender kit from Vans for $50 or so?
It's complete and designed for your tanks. You can see what they look like
and how they are installed here. http://bmnellis.com/CapacitiveSender.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Tracy Dybowski"
>
> I am getting ready to build the fuel tanks for my RV8 and plan on
installing
> a flop tube to allow inverted flight. To eliminate any possible
> interference with a float sender, capacitance senders seem like the
logical
> choice.
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for a high quality sender that will work in
> the RV8's tanks? Many seem to require access through the top of the tank
> which obviously won't work. I haven't decided on which manufacturer's
> gauges I will use, will the sender limit this or is a capacitance sender a
> universal signal?
>
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for an RV-3 project |
Greetings,
Now that my -8 is built and flying, I'm thinking of getting back to my plan
of building a rotary powered plane. My current thinking is that an RV-3
would make a suitable project, but I'm still working out the details.
Does anyone know of any RV-3 projects that may be for sale? The ideal
solution would be to find a project that is complete from the firewall aft,
since my interest is in building the rotary engine, and not really the
plane. It will also need to be inexpensive, since a new kit (with the new
wing) is still reasonably inexpensive.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
RV-8, N174KT, 80587 (flying 80 hours)
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lines... |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I ran mine under the rudder cables through the 602 to a 90 degree
bulkhead. anywhere aft of the 602 & fwd of the gear mount is OK. The
trouble is I put a grommet in the 602 so you have to flare it at the
bulkhead. Now it will not come out with out cutting it up. Next is your
vent line which is the worst one. I left it dangling until i got the wing
on & the forward attach brackets in. you have to go out board of the
rudder cable that is going to try & saw it into then do a loop over the
angle piece on the side then back down just in front of the 602 so no one
can see it, then out a hole just aft of the fwd attach bracket. IT is a
mess. If you can attach the wings & fit them bebore you nail the top skin
it would be a lot better.
Just to many lines in a close space.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> Listers (or I should say 6A builders),
>
> Question for those of you who have been there....When I route
> my hyd
> lines from the firewall bracket, along the bottom of the firewall,
> along the
> sides, and then out the side of the fuse where exactly do you exit
> the fuse??
> Dwg 40 and 49 show the 833 angle fitting exiting the fuse somewhere
> along
> the side, but no real measurement or distance? Georges video shows
> his just
> aft of the rudder pedals but that would put mine about where the
> fwrd wing
> attach angle will end up. Any info/help or pictures would be
> greatly
> appreciated. Thanks...
>
> Kurt in OKC
> Finishing Kit, 6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an RV-3 project |
HI Russell,
Don't Know of any RV-3 projects for sale, however, I do know of an
individual sucessfully flying a 13B rotoary in an RV-3. Pretty impressive
performance. You might want to chat with him about the good, the bad, and
the ugly. His name is Finn Lassen
E-mail Address(es):
finnlassen(at)netzero.net
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> Now that my -8 is built and flying, I'm thinking of getting back to my
plan
> of building a rotary powered plane. My current thinking is that an RV-3
> would make a suitable project, but I'm still working out the details.
>
> Does anyone know of any RV-3 projects that may be for sale? The ideal
> solution would be to find a project that is complete from the firewall
aft,
> since my interest is in building the rotary engine, and not really the
> plane. It will also need to be inexpensive, since a new kit (with the new
> wing) is still reasonably inexpensive.
>
> Thanks,
> Russell Duffy
> RV-8, N174KT, 80587 (flying 80 hours)
> Navarre, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Cool Graph on Archive Search Times... |
Hi Listers,
Below is a link to an interesting graph of the current Archive Search
Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ) search times done on the 113Mb
RV-List Archive file. The graph shows searches back through about
Thursday. Based on the search times (shown in the Y axis), see if you
can pick out the point at which the new Web Server hardware was
installed... Impressive? :-)
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/RV-ListArchiveSearchTimes.jpg
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | EXP-HARMON ROCKET II |
Aircraft Registry lists the owner as James Thomson
**** 10/29/2001 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 3 ****
A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 10/29/2001
From: WESTERN PACIFIC REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
B. Reg. No.: 325L M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-HARMON ROCKET II
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT PILOT DECLARED AN EMERGENCY DUE TO A
ROUGH-RUNNING ENGINE BEFORE CRASHING INTO A FIELD 3 MILES SOUTH
OF
MARCH AFB, MORENO VALLEY, CA.
Wx: UNKN
Damage: Substantial
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: MORENO VALLEY State: CA Country: US
E. Event Date: 10/27/2001 Time: 2230
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: WP21 DO City: RIVERSIDE
DO State: CA Others: NTSB
G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: MORENO VALLEY, CA Dep Date: 10/27/2001 Time:
Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: UNKN Flt Plan: UNK
Last Clearance: UNKN WX Briefing: U
Other:
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| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
One RV6 fus jig looking for a good home, or it will be firewood soon. It
has 5 RV6s to its credit. Located on Centennial Airport south of
Denver.
Mark Delano
Littleton, Co
6A Eng. inst.
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| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Oh no not again. My navaid appears to be working
properly except when no pressure is excerted on the
aileron (on the ground). When I engage the wing
leveler it jerks the aileron until a little pressure
is applied to same. My other question is when
everything is turned off and I move my control stick I
can here the servo clacking away but the stick moves
freely. When in flight everything seems fine. Anyone
else experience this sort of thing. Thanks in advance.
Joe
RV6A
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| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT troubleshooting |
Contact Westach and verify they have sent you the correct senders. They have a
type
"K" and a type "J" that look identical except the color of the wires. They have
shipped incorrect senders to several builders in this area.
Mark Delano
6a eng.
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
> Pat, the first thing to do is check what the actual temperature is at the CHT
> leads when they are reading around 450 F. The plug pick up point CHTs usually
> run hotter than the well type, anywhere from 50 to 150 F. A couple of months
ago
> a friend of mines was me about the cooling problem he was having with his 450
> Pratt powered Stearman. I suggested he change over to a well type sender,
> problem went away. So you may not have a problem at all.
> I personally haven't had much luck with Westach products and would not use them
> again.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Pat Perry wrote:
October 23, 2001 - October 29, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lt