RV-Archive.digest.vol-lu
October 29, 2001 - November 06, 2001
>
> >
> > Hi listers!
> >
> > I am still trying to figure out my high CHT problem on my #2 & #3 cylinders.
> >
> > Set-up:
> > -RV-4 built to plans, newer prepreg type cowl
> > -Lycoming 320-E2D w/carb
> > -New ECI Classic Cast Cylinders (28hrs SMOH)
> > -4 EGT probes
> > -4 CHT bottom spark plug ring thermocouples
> > -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for EGT
> > -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for CHT
> > -Standard RV baffle right from Vans
> >
> > The symptoms:
> > -On warm-up all cylinders rise to about 250, #3 slightly lower than the rest
> > -4-5 minute taxi, then 15 second Run-up at 1700rpm #2 and #3 quickly rise to
> > 375-400 others lower than 350.
> > -Take-off climb at 110mph #3 rises to 475-500 by crosswind, #2 usually 25deg
> > lower
> > -#1 & #4 rise to about 400 max throughout take-off
> > -increasing speed to 140mph on climb only slightly lowers CHT (-20 deg)
> > -75% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at about 435 #2 at 410, all others at
> > 350
> > -100% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at 465
> > -EGTs remain equal across all cylinders through-out taxi, run-up, take off
> > climb & cruise
> > -EGTs vary depending on power setting but range 1400 cruise to 1700 on climb
> >
> > Things I've tried:
> > -Checked for leaks in baffle system, none found
> >
> > -added small lip to bottom of cowl where exhaust exits to eliminate small
> > forward cut-out needed to fit around pipes
> >
> > -Blocked off oil cooler at the baffle, cooler not needed because oil temps
> > stay very low (130 deg). I've found this is common in RV-4s.
> >
> > -restricted dump air from exhaust heat exchanger when not in use.
> >
> > -tested running heater air all to cabin on a cool day to eliminate air
> > introduced behind baffle
> >
> > -Added a small wrap of aluminum around the #3 cylinder from the baffle to
> > the first push rod tube (I was told this would help by a well experienced
> > A&P)
> >
> > -Ran each mag separately for a few minutes of cruise flight, only slight
> > decrease in CHT, along with expected increased EGT.
> >
> > I'm not sure if I have an air flow problem on 2 Cylinders or a
> > engine/mixture problem across all cylinders. How big a CHT differential
> > between cylinders is seen on other RV-4s?
> >
> > Nothing seems to make a difference in the temperatures, they continue to
> > read high no matter what I change. Are there other things I should be
> > checking? Does anyone have other suggestions?
> >
> > If anyone could fill me in on all of the possible causes of a high reading
> > it would be a big help, guessing isn't working anymore!
> >
> > Pat Perry
> > Dallas, PA
> > RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
> > 28 hrs on the tach
> > Running a little hot it the head, cool in the pan!
> > =========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Andy Gold's message about free expired charts. |
Guys
I accidently deleated Andys message, and was going to take advantage of the
offer. Could someone repost it for me, or send it directly to me? Thanks
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
The problem with stick shaking is easy solved you have to remove the
servo and add a little internal friction on the nylon gear my unit did the
same thing I took it down to the folks at Navaid one day and they showed me
just how to do it . Maybe if you give them a call they would work with you on
the phone.
Pat RV-8-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
i have had the same behavior when no pressure is applied to the aileron.
navaid suggested slightly bending a spring/arm holding the gear/feedback
mechanism in the servo. i haven't done it because the behavior in the air
has been normal
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: navaid
>
> Oh no not again. My navaid appears to be working
> properly except when no pressure is excerted on the
> aileron (on the ground). When I engage the wing
> leveler it jerks the aileron until a little pressure
> is applied to same. My other question is when
> everything is turned off and I move my control stick I
> can here the servo clacking away but the stick moves
> freely. When in flight everything seems fine. Anyone
> else experience this sort of thing. Thanks in advance.
>
> Joe
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Folks
Is the Sensenich 70CM prop only listed as the RV prop for the 0320 based on
the engine horsepower? Is the propeller hub any different on the 0320 series
than it is on the 0360 series? The reason I am asking is that there are ways
to develop more ponies with an 0320 such as fuel injection, tuned exaust, and
electronic ignition. This being the case, it may make sense to use a 72FM
series prop "without the rpm
restriction" if it can be mounted. Any thoughts on this?? Otherwise, it
would seem that a "redesign" of the 70CM series would be in order. Any
thought appreciated.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting senders |
Larry...
You can see how I did mine here...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/engine1.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins
Subject: RV-List: Mounting senders
Does anyone have any pictures of their oil and fuel pressure transducers
mounted to the fire wall. I would appreciate pictures or even verbal
descriptions of the best way to do this.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: capacitance fuel level senders |
I can't answer your question on the senders, however I would like to mention
something that you may consider. I intended to install flop tubes in my
Quickbuild 8, but because the tanks came completed, I didn't want to open
them up to modify them for the flop tubes. Although I have an inverted oil
system, and fuel injection, I didn't think that the type of aerobatics that I
would be doing would require any sustained inverted or negative Gs, and the
fuel in the lines would provide adequate inverted fuel supply, without flop
tubes. During the flight testing period I did everything I could do to try
to make the engine quit while inverted,during maneuvers, and after returning
to positive G flight, and never got a cough. This included rolling 360s,
hammerheads, and sustained inverted flight(maybe 10 second). The sustained
inverted flight was limited by the high forward stick pressure that was
required to keep the nose up, as this wing doesn't like to be upside down.
These tests were accomplished feeding from both tanks(one at a time). Unless
your intending to compete in advanced, or go after some sustained inverted
record, I see no need for flop tubes, at least with my engine,fuel system
configuration.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
joe
i just did this , this week. call or e-mail Navaid and they will send you a
free resistor and instructions on how to install it into the servo motor box.
good luck. it is an easy job.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I remember reading a jim cones instructions on slider install.
Is there a location I can find these instructions step by step?
Regards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT troubleshooting |
I'm pretty sure the problem is your gauge and wiring, not your engine.
Personally, I would get rid of the Westach stuff. Spark plug probes are
notoriously inaccurate, and tend to read high. Westach gauges (again, IMHO)
are fine for ultralights, but I wouldn't want them in my RV. I had full
Westach instrumentation in a Quicksilver Sprint II - dual head EGT and CHT
(one gauge per probe/cylinder) and it was very imprecise. It gave you the
general idea of what was going on, but that was it.
E.I. makes great stuff (as do others) but it is pricey. However,
considering the value that is being protected by this equipment (my 0320,
and the occupants' well-being) I opted for it. I bet you'd see temps 50-100
degrees less with this setup.
> I am still trying to figure out my high CHT problem on my #2 & #3
cylinders.
>
> Set-up:
> -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for CHT
> The symptoms:
> -On warm-up all cylinders rise to about 250, #3 slightly lower than the
rest
> -4-5 minute taxi, then 15 second Run-up at 1700rpm #2 and #3 quickly rise
to
> 375-400 others lower than 350.
> -Take-off climb at 110mph #3 rises to 475-500 by crosswind, #2 usually
25deg
> lower
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Compression tube failure. Was RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report |
Yikes! I'm glad you're replacing that with an Aeroquip hose. I can
guarantee that a copper tube with a compression fitting will *always* fail
in this scenario. The compression fitting seals by "digging in" to the
copper tubing - this of course scores the tube. This works fine for
refrigerator icemakers that don't flex the fitting, (and won't kill you if
they fail) but on a vibrating engine flexing that line constantly, yuck.
I'm sure glad this happened on the ground.
IMHO, compression fittings on copper or aluminum tubing have no place on an
airplane. Especially not where it is subject to flexing or carrying a
critical fluid like oil. BTW, a real easy way to make a restrictor fitting
is to use a steel AN fitting for the hose attachment. Solder the pipe
thread end shut, then drill a .060 hole in the solder. It will still pump
your oil overboard, but nowhere near as fast as 1/8".
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> On another note. The oil pressure line going from the engine to the
> transducer mounted on the firewall is a small copper line with a
compression
> fitting on the engine end. It has one loop in it before connecting to the
> transducer mounted on the firewall. Comming on the ramp last week that
line
> broke at the compression fitting and oil pressure went to zero, of course.
> I was amazed how much oil came out of that little 1/8" hose in such a
short time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Which brand is brighter? I've emailed these two companies and asked them
about their wingtip strobes with the powerpacks that run just one bulb.
The winner is Whelen and I clearly asked them about just one
Aeroflash Model 156-0003 wingtip strobes with small power supplies
mounted at the wingtips.
Current draw 1.5 amps per wingtip.
"Each strobe is 10 joules"
Whelen A490-TS-CF-14 wingtip power supply with Whelen flash bulb. These
are the model available from Van.
Current draw is 4 amps per wingtip.
"Total accumulative joules is 34"
I'm confused at what this means, here is exactly what I asked:
>> Concerning power supply A490-TS-CF-14, how many amps does it draw
and
>>how many joules will the bulb put out? Figures for just one wingtip
>>please. I'm trying to compare different brands. Thank-you, Norman
Hunger
Anyhow, just comparing these two brands, I'd say the expensive Whelens
blow away the Aeroflash. You do get what you pay for.
Anybody want to point me at some other brands to research?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT troubleshooting |
Interesting, I've got exactly the same temps on my ECI Classic Cast cylinders
although I've only got 1 hour and 2 flights on them so far. I expect high temps
this early in the break in but I don't like the difference between the
cylinders. I'll watch this thread with interest and if I learn anything on my
own I'll let you know.
By the way, I don't think it's a problem the cylinders
Dave -6 So Cal
Pat Perry wrote:
>
> Hi listers!
>
> I am still trying to figure out my high CHT problem on my #2 & #3 cylinders.
>
> Set-up:
> -RV-4 built to plans, newer prepreg type cowl
> -Lycoming 320-E2D w/carb
> -New ECI Classic Cast Cylinders (28hrs SMOH)
> -4 EGT probes
> -4 CHT bottom spark plug ring thermocouples
> -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for EGT
> -4 Position Switch to Westach single gauge for CHT
> -Standard RV baffle right from Vans
>
> The symptoms:
> -On warm-up all cylinders rise to about 250, #3 slightly lower than the rest
> -4-5 minute taxi, then 15 second Run-up at 1700rpm #2 and #3 quickly rise to
> 375-400 others lower than 350.
> -Take-off climb at 110mph #3 rises to 475-500 by crosswind, #2 usually 25deg
> lower
> -#1 & #4 rise to about 400 max throughout take-off
> -increasing speed to 140mph on climb only slightly lowers CHT (-20 deg)
> -75% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at about 435 #2 at 410, all others at
> 350
> -100% power at 4000 feet #3 stabilizes at 465
> -EGTs remain equal across all cylinders through-out taxi, run-up, take off
> climb & cruise
> -EGTs vary depending on power setting but range 1400 cruise to 1700 on climb
>
> Things I've tried:
> -Checked for leaks in baffle system, none found
>
> -added small lip to bottom of cowl where exhaust exits to eliminate small
> forward cut-out needed to fit around pipes
>
> -Blocked off oil cooler at the baffle, cooler not needed because oil temps
> stay very low (130 deg). I've found this is common in RV-4s.
>
> -restricted dump air from exhaust heat exchanger when not in use.
>
> -tested running heater air all to cabin on a cool day to eliminate air
> introduced behind baffle
>
> -Added a small wrap of aluminum around the #3 cylinder from the baffle to
> the first push rod tube (I was told this would help by a well experienced
> A&P)
>
> -Ran each mag separately for a few minutes of cruise flight, only slight
> decrease in CHT, along with expected increased EGT.
>
> I'm not sure if I have an air flow problem on 2 Cylinders or a
> engine/mixture problem across all cylinders. How big a CHT differential
> between cylinders is seen on other RV-4s?
>
> Nothing seems to make a difference in the temperatures, they continue to
> read high no matter what I change. Are there other things I should be
> checking? Does anyone have other suggestions?
>
> If anyone could fill me in on all of the possible causes of a high reading
> it would be a big help, guessing isn't working anymore!
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
> 28 hrs on the tach
> Running a little hot it the head, cool in the pan!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
,
"AeroElectric List"
I want to light my panel from the lip of my glairsheild which is five inches
from the panel. It is an RV6 glairsheild that is untrimmed. I bough a few
strip lights from JC Whitney http://www.jcwhitney.com/ bendable strip lights
in white 20BB0457Y. $12 USD for 5'. When I tested them out in my darkened
shop they weren't bright enough but I liked the format. I also didn't like
the quality of wire that they are put together with. So I desoldered them
and painstakingly soldered the bulbs onto some of my wire and made the bulbs
as close together as I could. I shoved them back in the nifty white plastic
strip and tested them out. They appear great, I'm almost positive they will
do the job. They claim 40,000 hour bulb life.
Recently I've been turned onto LED's from Ledtronics
http://www.ledtronics.com/ . They make a strip light with low profile bulbs
that are 1/2 inch apart PLT-210-OCW but the price is a whopping $96 a foot.
I need around four feet so they're out.
So now I notice that JC Whitney has Wolo LED light bars for dressing up a
vehicle's exterior. $15 USD for 14 inches with 50 LEDs part number
15BB7505U. I wonder what color the bulbs are as the catalog only indicates
the color of the lens in the casing. These might work well when stripped
apart if the bulbs are white. Anyone care to try some thing new?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimmer questions |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
A few dimmer questions from a dimmer dimwit...
1) Is there any difference in operation, reliability or performance
between 'Lectric Bob's dimmers and the ones Vans sells?
2) How close together can the dimmers be mounted (Bob's or Vans)? In
other words if I want to have two or three dimmers in a row on my panel,
what approx. spacing do I need between the knobs?
3) It is my understanding that these dimmers can be used to dim the
backlighting on units such as the Microair comm and transponder, the
Grand Rapids EIS, etc. Is the backlighting on these units the same EL
stuff that is commercially available and powered by an inverter? I
discussed the EL lighting concept on the List a few weeks ago, regarding
the use of a strip of EL under my glareshield to help light the steam
gauges in my panel. One guy I talked to said this is the same stuff as
the "Indiglo" (soft blue color) used in wristwatches....does this mean
that wristwatches and the aformentioned avionics (green in color) have
tiny inverters in them to run the EL lighting, or am I getting all
confused here? Bottom line is I'm wondering if the dimmers sold by Bob
or Van can be used to dim EL lighting by varying the voltage into the
inverter that powers the EL?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, ordering Finish Kit this week, planning wiring....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Contol Spacing was Flap switch location |
In a message dated 10/29/01 10:10:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> This may be in the archives but I can't find it. What is the proper spacing
> between the Throttle/Mixture/Prop?
>
>
I put them at 3" center to center. This seems about right, but I confess
that I am unaware of any standard in this regard.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Sliding Canopy |
On 29 Oct 2001, at 19:34, Mike Comeaux wrote:
> I remember reading a jim cones instructions on slider install.
> Is there a location I can find these instructions step by step?
They're posted at my web site. www.geocities.com/timrv6a , then click
on the "Supplemental canopy Instructions" link in the left pane.
Tim
********************************
The DCA Infinite TCA...
"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
********************************
Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Compression tube failure. Was RV8-List: Sensenich 8 |
7" report
Doesn't someone sell restrictor fittings?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV 10 + hours
-----Original Message-----
BTW, a real easy way to make a restrictor fitting
is to use a steel AN fitting for the hose attachment.
Solder the pipe
thread end shut, then drill a .060 hole in the solder. It
will still pump
your oil overboard, but nowhere near as fast as 1/8".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Gear Leg Intersection Fairings |
Does anyone have pictures of their gear leg fairings on the -8?
Especially the top one near the wing.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 10 Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Sliding Canopy |
Thanks Tim!
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Sliding Canopy
>--> RV6-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis"
>
>On 29 Oct 2001, at 19:34, Mike Comeaux wrote:
>
>> I remember reading a jim cones instructions on slider install.
>> Is there a location I can find these instructions step by step?
>
>They're posted at my web site. www.geocities.com/timrv6a , then click
>on the "Supplemental canopy Instructions" link in the left pane.
>
>Tim
>********************************
>The DCA Infinite TCA...
>"America's Southern No Fly Zone"
>********************************
>
>Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA
>RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
If it works good in flight leave it alone.
John Henley, 500 hr Navaid
----- Original Message -----
From: Moshe Lichtman <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: navaid
>
> i have had the same behavior when no pressure is applied to the aileron.
> navaid suggested slightly bending a spring/arm holding the gear/feedback
> mechanism in the servo. i haven't done it because the behavior in the air
> has been normal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
> To: "rvlist"
> Subject: RV-List: navaid
>
>
> >
> > Oh no not again. My navaid appears to be working
> > properly except when no pressure is excerted on the
> > aileron (on the ground). When I engage the wing
> > leveler it jerks the aileron until a little pressure
> > is applied to same. My other question is when
> > everything is turned off and I move my control stick I
> > can here the servo clacking away but the stick moves
> > freely. When in flight everything seems fine. Anyone
> > else experience this sort of thing. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Joe
> > RV6A
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
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Only $9.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Norman, I appreciate your efforts to exhaustively research the
Whelen/Aeroflash issue, but I think you are flogging a dead horse.
In the group of RVs in which I regularly fly, we have two sets of
Whelens, and two sets of Aeroflash strobes. I have had ample opportunity
over the past few hundred hours of flight to compare the two systems
side-by-side.
There is no doubt, I repeat, no doubt, the Whelens are brighter than the
Aeroflash units.
The question is, does this really matter?
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==============================
Norman wrote:
>
>
> Which brand is brighter? I've emailed these two companies and asked them
> about their wingtip strobes with the powerpacks that run just one bulb.
> The winner is Whelen and I clearly asked them about just one
>
> Aeroflash Model 156-0003 wingtip strobes with small power supplies
> mounted at the wingtips.
> Current draw 1.5 amps per wingtip.
> "Each strobe is 10 joules"
>
> Whelen A490-TS-CF-14 wingtip power supply with Whelen flash bulb. These
> are the model available from Van.
> Current draw is 4 amps per wingtip.
> "Total accumulative joules is 34"
> I'm confused at what this means, here is exactly what I asked:
>
> >> Concerning power supply A490-TS-CF-14, how many amps does it draw
> and
> >>how many joules will the bulb put out? Figures for just one wingtip
> >>please. I'm trying to compare different brands. Thank-you, Norman
> Hunger
>
> Anyhow, just comparing these two brands, I'd say the expensive Whelens
> blow away the Aeroflash. You do get what you pay for.
>
> Anybody want to point me at some other brands to research?
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel Pump...won't make noise? |
My facet fuel pump only makes a buzz and not the loud clicking. Is this
because I don't have fuel in the system yet?
Jerry Wilken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel Pump...won't make noise? |
Yes, you will actually be able to tell as the pressure builds because the clicks
will slow down discernibly. I wouldn't run it too much without fuel as this
the lubricant it needs.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Facet Fuel Pump...won't make noise?
My facet fuel pump only makes a buzz and not the loud clicking. Is this
because I don't have fuel in the system yet?
Jerry Wilken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I have been looking at GPS stuff for a while now, and although I think
the Anywhere Map is very cool, I think the price sucks... Anyway I ran
across another one that also seems very nice, but still affordable...
$49 for the application and $8 for a database update... The database
updates come out every month, but the application will allow you to run
a database for 3 months so you really only have to update 4 times a
year... So that's $49 for the program, and only $48 a year for database
updates... Sounds good to me!
Website is http://home.nj.rr.com/navgps by the way.
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel Pump...won't make noise? |
The plunger ( piston) is probably stuck. The rattling or clicking is caused
by the piston going back and forth when there is no fuel in the pump. If
you run the pump without fuel in it for extended periods this can happen,
as the fuel is used as a lubricant. Or sometimes a piece of debris can get
between the pump body and the piston and jam the piston. Take the pump off
and put a drop or two of engine oil in the inlet and outlet. Hook the pump
up to a 12v source and while its buzzing rap the inlet and outlet
alternately parallel to the flow with a rubber mallet. Start with a light
tap and then increase the force until you either cause the piston to start
moving or feel you are hitting it to hard.
After you loosen the piston, hook up hoses to the inlet and outlet and put
them in a can of clean diesel or jet fuel. It would be a good idea to put a
filter on the inlet hose. Let the pump run for 10 or 15 minutes
occasionally pinching the outlet hose so the pressure builds up. When you
pinch the hose the pump should slow down.
It this doesn't solve your problem or you feel uncomfortable doing this,
send me the pump. I'll check it out for you, no charge. Contact me of list
for my address.
Garry "Casper"
WPAerial(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> My facet fuel pump only makes a buzz and not the loud clicking. Is this
> because I don't have fuel in the system yet?
>
> Jerry Wilken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
I thought the elevators were to be mass balanced, both singly and as a
pair. Thus they should stay wherever you put them. If they
droop...well, I won't be in that 'plane.
Boyd
Super 6
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>snip
> Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly, most
> of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we tightened
> them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
> overcame it mainly with shim washers.
> The elevators should droop to full down when released.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
> Hampshire, IL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gilbert Wheeler" <gilbertwheeler(at)winning.com> |
When can I pick it up?
Gilbert (970)622-7420 or 800 - 574-4093
-----Original Message-----
From: "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:31:33 -0800
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fus Jig
>
> One RV6 fus jig looking for a good home, or it will be firewood soon. It
> has 5 RV6s to its credit. Located on Centennial Airport south of
> Denver.
>
>
> Mark Delano
> Littleton, Co
> 6A Eng. inst.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com
http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
Have you downloaded the latest calling software from Net2Phone? Click here to get
it now!
http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O 360 A1A for sale ???? |
Have a friend Collins Morrison who wants to up grade his PA 24 180 to a IO
540 but in order to do this he has to sell his engine currently in his plane
a O 360 A1A. wants to sell it firewall foreward including prop. He can be
reached at morrisoc(at)sqyared.com or PH 806 798 8373. For details contact
him direct. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 0 360 A1A forsale ? |
opps, his Email is morrisoc(at)squared.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
Wouldn't the upside-down pendulum effect of the control sticks and the
related bellcrank and pushrods have an effect on the resting position of the
elevators after they are balanced then hooked up?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Attach
>
> I thought the elevators were to be mass balanced, both singly and as a
> pair. Thus they should stay wherever you put them. If they
> droop...well, I won't be in that 'plane.
>
> Boyd
> Super 6
>
> Dennis Persyk wrote:
> >
> >snip
> > Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly,
most
> > of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we
tightened
> > them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
> > overcame it mainly with shim washers.
> > The elevators should droop to full down when released.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
> > Hampshire, IL
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
I believe that's part of the reason for the placement of the reversing
bellcrank for the elevators--to reduce mass effect from the rest of the
control system. The connected control "system" still needs to be in
balance or you open up a whole can of pitch control/trim/PIO/?flutter worms.
Boyd
Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
>
> Wouldn't the upside-down pendulum effect of the control sticks and the
> related bellcrank and pushrods have an effect on the resting position of the
> elevators after they are balanced then hooked up?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Attach
>
> >
> > I thought the elevators were to be mass balanced, both singly and as a
> > pair. Thus they should stay wherever you put them. If they
> > droop...well, I won't be in that 'plane.
> >
> > Boyd
> > Super 6
> >
> > Dennis Persyk wrote:
> > >
>
> > >snip
> > > Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly,
> most
> > > of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we
> tightened
> > > them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
> > > overcame it mainly with shim washers.
> > > The elevators should droop to full down when released.
> > >
> > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
> > > Hampshire, IL
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
Sorry for the poor wording. Droop or raising occurs when sticks are
attached because the stick CG lies beyond pivot point. Elevators without
controls attached should indeed be neutral or droop slightly
(over-balanced).
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Attach
>
> I thought the elevators were to be mass balanced, both singly and as a
> pair. Thus they should stay wherever you put them. If they
> droop...well, I won't be in that 'plane.
>
> Boyd
> Super 6
>
> Dennis Persyk wrote:
> >
> >snip
> > Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly,
most
> > of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we
tightened
> > them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
> > overcame it mainly with shim washers.
> > The elevators should droop to full down when released.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
> > Hampshire, IL
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Panel support ribs and attitude gyro |
After placing the panel support ribs on my 6A slider according to the
drawings, I find that either the left or center rib will interfere with
placement of instruments. I found one post in the archives proposing to
cut away the lower portion of the left rib and using a piece of angle to
restore its strength. Is there any other experience with modifying the
left rib to accomodate an instrument?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel support ribs and attitude gyro |
--- Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> After placing the panel support ribs on my 6A slider according to the
> drawings, I find that either the left or center rib will interfere
> with
> placement of instruments. I found one post in the archives proposing
> to
> cut away the lower portion of the left rib and using a piece of angle
> to
> restore its strength. Is there any other experience with modifying
> the
> left rib to accomodate an instrument?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
I did exactly what is listed above and have been flying almost 1,000
hours.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
980.3+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Steve, I finally sent my caps yesterday, priority mail. I hope I'm not
causing problems being so late.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PANELCUT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
Group
I have received 9 sets of caps to date, I have listed the ones below. I do
not plan on starting these until next week to give people a little more time
to get them to me.
If your not listed below and you have sent your caps drop me an e-mail so I
can let you know when they arrive.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
Frank Goggio
F. Malclynsk
Jody Edwards
Phillip Dressen
John Singer
Rick Gray
Nikki Duncan
Mauri Morin
Krueger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I believe that's part of the reason for the placement of the reversing
>bellcrank for the elevators--to reduce mass effect from the rest of the
>control system. The connected control "system" still needs to be in
>balance or you open up a whole can of pitch control/trim/PIO/?flutter worms.
>
>Boyd
>
Ok. Connected with the airplane in what attitude?
If my airplane is sitting on the ground the elevator will tend to go up.
If it is put in a level attitude the elevator tends to be level.
Apparently the push rod in the fuselage has a large effect. Gravity
pulls it toward the rear of the plane, in three point attitude, which
deflects the elevator up.
I chose to go with Vans' instructions to balance the elevator unconnected
(at least that is the way I remember it). That way I don't have to do
the engineering on the many possibilities with the control system
connected.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. MacIntyre" <macintyr(at)vims.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attach |
The elevators are mass balanced, but are subject to outside forces applied
through the push rods that may produce the observed "drooping". Mac
>
>I thought the elevators were to be mass balanced, both singly and as a
>pair. Thus they should stay wherever you put them. If they
>droop...well, I won't be in that 'plane.
>
>Boyd
>Super 6
>
>Dennis Persyk wrote:
> >
> >snip
> > Binding controls seem to be a common problem. Up until final assembly, most
> > of my control fittings had been installed finger tight. When we tightened
> > them all up to full-torque specs, there was considerable binding. I
> > overcame it mainly with shim washers.
> > The elevators should droop to full down when released.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 Hours
> > Hampshire, IL
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Panel support ribs and attitude gyro |
Richard,
I did what you suggested. You can see some pics at:
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm
You can click on the thumbnail to get a larger shot.
Laird
RV-6
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Oct 30, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panel support ribs and attitude gyro
After placing the panel support ribs on my 6A slider according to the
drawings, I find that either the left or center rib will interfere with
placement of instruments. I found one post in the archives proposing to
cut away the lower portion of the left rib and using a piece of angle to
restore its strength. Is there any other experience with modifying the
left rib to accomodate an instrument?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
> There is no doubt, I repeat, no doubt, the Whelens are brighter than the
> Aeroflash units.
>
> The question is, does this really matter?
The only matter that may matter would be being seen. The brighter the
better. The Whelen tripple flash is an eyegrabber. Nice to be seen out
there. Nice to be FLYING again, by the way.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compression tube failure. Was RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report |
>
> Yikes! I'm glad you're replacing that with an Aeroquip hose. I can
> guarantee that a copper tube with a compression fitting will *always* fail
> in this scenario. The compression fitting seals by "digging in" to the
> copper tubing - this of course scores the tube. This works fine for
> refrigerator icemakers that don't flex the fitting, (and won't kill you if
> they fail) but on a vibrating engine flexing that line constantly, yuck.
> I'm sure glad this happened on the ground.
>
I like to make mine by tapping the fitting and locktiting in an allen head
set screw. Drill with a 0.030" drill and you are ready to go.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F1 rocket kit for sale |
F1 rocket kit bye Team Rocket Aircraft for SALE
> > Kit is partionally finished, excellent workmanship as the work was done
> by
> >
> > team rocket as this was to be there show plane.
> > Kit includes complete RV8 tail. Just has to be mounted and finished.
> > Kit also includes the following
> > Ameri king ELT
> > Vetterman Stainless exhust
> > heat shielding
> > team rocket throttle quadrent
> > areoflash strobes
> > I have pictures that can be emailed to anyone. I have about 35000 into
> the
> >
> > kit. I am asking 30,000 or best offer. Please email me or call for
> details
> > on the
> > kit. Please make and offer as i must sell this kit.
> >
> > Chris wilcox, Oshkosh WI
> > (920) 858-7561 cell
> > (920) 235-1082 work
> > cw9371(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>In a message dated 10/29/2001 8:43:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
>> , it may make sense to use a 72FM
>> series prop "without the rpm
>> restriction" if it can be mounted. Any thoughts on this??
>
>Yeah, I was wondering about this myself... bolt on a 72 and flatten the pitch
>a bit... but by the time I got the O-320 all hot-rodded up, the new
>generation of diesels will be ready for RV installation and the whole point
>will be moot :-) Besides, there must be esoteric & technical reasons why
>something this simple won't actually work ;-)
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
>Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
This is a thorny question. rpm limits are particular to a prop and
engine model combination. So, even though an 72FM prop is safe up to
2700 rpm on an O-360 doesn't mean that it would be OK to spin it up
to 2700 on an O-320. The only way we'll know if it is OK is if
Sensensich does the required testing.
Engine mods might invalidate Sensenich's results, as the mods could
change the vibration spectrum that the prop is subjected to.
If you want more than 160 hp maybe the O-360 is the best choice. It
isn't that much heavier than an O-320.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New GA restrictions |
EAA 486 at Oswego KFZY is closed too...
WOW I mean just in the 10 mile ring of 2 nuke plants. I thought they'd let you
depart south R-way cause it looks that close!!
And BTW EAA 486 holds a great annual RV forum there also. Yup 8th annual will
be Sept 2002.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New GA restrictions |
everybody...let just be cool
just remember...if any (and i mean ANY) general aviation aircraft is involved
(or even suspected) of terrorist activity, we will all own very expensive
hood ornaments! the american public couldn't care less whether or not we
EVER fly again. in fact, many would rather just shut us down...now...forever.
so let us be patient...remember...there is a war on and we are all in it.
paul
RV6A/N632M/180/CS (still trapped in the Wash DC area (HEF))
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: charging odessy battery |
dear listers.
i have a gel cel battery, and know there are a special way to charge them,
but my paperwork got wet and i can't read it. who knows the proper way to
charge these rascals?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/31/2001 08:13:11 AM
THERE IS ANOTHER WAY TO INCREASE YOUR HORSEPOWER ON THE O320 WITHOUT GOING
TO THE O360. IN DOING SOME HOMEWORK ON THE DIESEL ENGINES BECOMING
AVAILABLE TO THE EXPERIMENTAL AND G.A. MARKET, I'M FINDING THAT THESE MAY
NOT BE AN OPTION FOR RV BUILDERS AND OWNERS. ALTHOUGH THE IDEA OF A 4GAL/HR
CRUISE SETTING SOUNDS GREAT AND COST EFFECTIVE, THE INSTALLATION COST,
WEIGHT AND COWL LIMITATIONS COULD VERY WELL TAKE THESE GEMS RIGHT OUT OF
THE EQUATION. YOUR THOUGHTS??????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatic fuel tank modifications |
I wouldn't think that big hole would cause you any problems. That access
plate with the reinforcing ring will be plenty strong and I wouldn't think
that the baffle is carrying much load. Regardless the plans call for that
hole if you use the inverted tank mod and the float sender anyway.
I got a chance to ask Van's about that hole and yes you should have one trap
door and the other hole should be covered up. You can see a picture of mine
here...
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=90
Here is a picture of the inboard bay all finished...
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=92
Phil Birkelbach
RV-7 - N727WB (Reserved) - Wings
Houston, Texas
http://www.myrv7.com
Takeoffs are optional, Landings are mandatory.
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: aerobatic fuel tank modifications
>
>
> Hi to all listers -
>
> I've been working on the left fuel tank for an RV-8. I am modifying this
> side for the aerobatic flop tube in the accessories catalog. I misread
the
> plans and thought that the access plate was supposed to be mounted on the
> baffle with the fuel sender, so now I have a big hole in the baffle in the
> second bay of the tank. Big deal or little deal? What effect will the
> access plate have on the strength of the baffle (I thought it might help
> since it is so stiff). Should I leave it or order another baffle? What
is
> the likelihood of having to gain access to the first bay once the tank is
> completed?
>
> Also, I noticed in the plans that there is supposed to be a "trap door"
over
> the hole in the bottom of the 2nd rib to keep fuel from flowing out of
that
> bay in left turns. That rib actually has two big holes in it - the second
> hole is right in the middle of the aft stiffening ring. This is not
> depicted in the plans. Should I create another "trap door" there or cover
> the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker Thomas
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> parker(at)iname.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
I have a new website for the RV-7A.
I haven't uploaded many of the photos yet. Thurs project.
Any comments to help improve would be great.
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
Steve Hurlbut
hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: charging odessy battery |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/odycharg.htm
>
> dear listers.
> i have a gel cel battery, and know there are a special way to charge
> them, but my paperwork got wet and i can't read it. who knows the
> proper way to charge these rascals?
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 10/30/01 |
I may be wrong but don't all the 0-320's use 7/16" bolts, whereas the 0-360s
use 1/2" bolts.
I think both flanges are SAE #2 derivatives, and the bushings might be
interchangable. But I've never had the opportunity to do this? So I don't
know if the rest of the flange specs are the same.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Cy,
I don't get the Experimenter so I e-mailed Whelen customer service about the
procedure for firing up my HDA Comet Flash that I purchased a few years ago.
I attached your email. Their reply was....
"The newer power supplies such as yours won't lose the polarity formation of
the capacitors after periods of non-use . It should work just fine on
start-up."
Ross Mickey
RV-6A
> THAT is the problem... Just firing up after a long period of not using
your
> strobes WILL ruin the capacitors. Maybe even cause them to explode!
> Whelan warns against this.
>
> Proper procedure is to remove the flash tube, apply 75% of normal supply
> voltage for 10 to 15 minutes. Wait until the capacitor discharges ( hour).
> Re-install the flash tube. You can then use full voltage without harming
the
> capacitor.
>
> All this and the full story in the November Issue of the Experimenter, p
39!
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | paint before assembly |
I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount of Oh
s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin Williams
polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down sides to
going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top coat.
Naturally there will be a possibility of scratching the final top coat
during final assembly but that can be minimized, I think, with care.
Sure would like to get the dings filled and a final top coat applied so I
won't have to look at the screw ups for the next couple of years.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint before assembly |
I think thats a great idea. Paint the tail now, the wings when their done,
and finally the fuselage. Then move out to the airport, assemble and fly.
The only real downside is if the EPA outlaws the paint you are using while
building. I know this has happened to at least one lister.
Gary
Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
> I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount of Oh
> s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin Williams
> polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down sides to
> going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top coat.
> Naturally there will be a possibility of scratching the final top coat
> during final assembly but that can be minimized, I think, with care.
>
> Sure would like to get the dings filled and a final top coat applied so I
> won't have to look at the screw ups for the next couple of years.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | paint before assembly |
I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount of Oh
s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin Williams
polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down sides to
going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top coat.
Naturally there will be a possibility of scratching the final top coat
during final assembly but that can be minimized, I think, with care.
Sure would like to get the dings filled and a final top coat applied so I
won't have to look at the screw ups for the next couple of years.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
Steve,
I just finished painting my RV-6 and am doing the final assembly now. My
experience, so far, is that it is a good idea to paint the airplane in
parts. This allows you to take the parts to an automotive painter to paint
in a good paint booth. However, you may be rushing it a little. You will
have to fit the empennage parts to the fuselage and fit, or fabricate, an
intersection fairing. I would make sure you have made all "adjustments" to
the various parts before final painting. To do this you will have to
assemble, fit, then disassemble all of the parts.
My approach would be to alodine the parts now to help resist corrosion.
When you have finished the airplane (still in pieces), then etch, alodine,
corrosion prime, repair dents, sanding primer (as needed), sand, and top
coat.
BTW I highly recommend the Sherwin Williams JetGlo paint.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, final assembly
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Interesting... Off the Whelen web site from their PDF manual p 15, I
quote...
"WARNING: Strobe light power supplies are meant to be used, not to
remain in an inactive state. Use them at all times, this will improve
their proper functioning. Any strobe light power supply that has been
out of service for a long period of time is subject to failure because
the electrolytic condenser loses the polarity formation. A strobe light
power supply not having been used for one year or longer is vulnerable
to failure.
If this is the case, it is recommended to start operating the system on
a voltage that is reduced by 25 percent for 10 to 15 minutes before
putting the power supply into normal service. This will prevent
overheating of the condenser while they reform. If the power supply,
after a long period of non use, is operated at full voltage immediately,
there is an excellent possibility that the condenser will become
overheated."
=A9 1999 Whelen Engineering Company, Inc.
Sure different than your post, but then again they are capacitors not
condensers.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lights
Cy,
I don't get the Experimenter so I e-mailed Whelen customer service about
the
procedure for firing up my HDA Comet Flash that I purchased a few years
ago.
I attached your email. Their reply was....
"The newer power supplies such as yours won't lose the polarity
formation of
the capacitors after periods of non-use . It should work just fine on
start-up."
Ross Mickey
RV-6A
> THAT is the problem... Just firing up after a long period of not using
your
> strobes WILL ruin the capacitors. Maybe even cause them to explode!
> Whelan warns against this.
>
> Proper procedure is to remove the flash tube, apply 75% of normal
supply
> voltage for 10 to 15 minutes. Wait until the capacitor discharges (
hour).
> Re-install the flash tube. You can then use full voltage without
harming
the
> capacitor.
>
> All this and the full story in the November Issue of the Experimenter,
p
39!
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint before assembly |
I didn't paint mine, and I'm glad I didn't. I've had to make several
adjustments, climb around the fuselage, take the cowling off several
thousand times during test flights, etc.
FWIW, I would wait if I were you and get it done after you fly.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: RV-List: paint before assembly
I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount of Oh
s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin Williams
polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down sides to
going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top coat.
Naturally there will be a possibility of scratching the final top coat
during final assembly but that can be minimized, I think, with care.
Sure would like to get the dings filled and a final top coat applied so I
won't have to look at the screw ups for the next couple of years.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | paint before assembly |
>
> I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount
> of Oh
> s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin
> Williams
> polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down
> sides to
> going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top
> coat.
Aside from the two basic viewpoints of "paint-fly" and "fly-paint", one
thing to consider when painting parts before you get everything done is
color matching. Even if the whole plane is white and you use the same
brand, you could wind up with different shades.
You may paint the wings a year or more before you paint the fuselage
and wind up with slightly different colors - especially on the
non-white colors.
Better to take components to primer and then if you intend to paint-fly
then paint the whole thing (all the parts) at the same time using the
same batch (or mixing together different batches)of paint.
YMMV
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
please.
Dan Ward
81243 almost there
N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Cy,
Since the manual is for all of the Whelen products, this warning may apply
to some but not all. The email from Whelen customer service only confirms
that for my unit...the HDA Comet Flash...it does not apply.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lights
>
> Interesting... Off the Whelen web site from their PDF manual p 15, I
> quote...
> "WARNING: Strobe light power supplies are meant to be used, not to
> remain in an inactive state. Use them at all times, this will improve
> their proper functioning. Any strobe light power supply that has been
> out of service for a long period of time is subject to failure because
> the electrolytic condenser loses the polarity formation. A strobe light
> power supply not having been used for one year or longer is vulnerable
> to failure.
>
> If this is the case, it is recommended to start operating the system on
> a voltage that is reduced by 25 percent for 10 to 15 minutes before
> putting the power supply into normal service. This will prevent
> overheating of the condenser while they reform. If the power supply,
> after a long period of non use, is operated at full voltage immediately,
> there is an excellent possibility that the condenser will become
> overheated."
>
> =A9 1999 Whelen Engineering Company, Inc.
>
> Sure different than your post, but then again they are capacitors not
> condensers.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lights
>
>
> Cy,
> I don't get the Experimenter so I e-mailed Whelen customer service about
> the
> procedure for firing up my HDA Comet Flash that I purchased a few years
> ago.
> I attached your email. Their reply was....
>
> "The newer power supplies such as yours won't lose the polarity
> formation of
> the capacitors after periods of non-use . It should work just fine on
> start-up."
>
> Ross Mickey
> RV-6A
>
>
> > THAT is the problem... Just firing up after a long period of not using
> your
> > strobes WILL ruin the capacitors. Maybe even cause them to explode!
> > Whelan warns against this.
> >
> > Proper procedure is to remove the flash tube, apply 75% of normal
> supply
> > voltage for 10 to 15 minutes. Wait until the capacitor discharges (
> hour).
> > Re-install the flash tube. You can then use full voltage without
> harming
> the
> > capacitor.
> >
> > All this and the full story in the November Issue of the Experimenter,
> p
> 39!
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> > http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
I was just a Van's to get a Bill of Sale. All you do is request one. They
print them up once a week. I don't know about the tax question.
Ross Mickey
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Bill of sale? |
As for obtaining the BOS just call Van's they will mail it to you. As for
the rest of the question, Boy, It all depends on Where you live, how long
you have had the kit, was it delivered or will call. There is no real answer
until you answer a bunch of questions. I suggest that you contact your State
Board of Equalization. They will answer all your questions. If you do obtain
information from them that would indicate you don't owe taxes or penalties
for not paying up front, make sure to get it in writing. Each employee may
have a different interpretation of the situation you describe to them.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
P.S. dodged the sales tax bullet
----- Original Message -----
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Bill of sale?
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV7and7A] Elevator and tim tab bends |
I spent a lot of time (and three trim tab skins) before I figured out
the secret to bending the trim tab. I've seen lots of RV's and many of
them and beautiful bends to the trim tab skins.
My method was to cut those little ears off and make up a couple of ribs.
It was easy to do and I think it turned out nice. I've seen almost as
many RV's with homemade ribs in place of the bent tabs as I have with
bent tabs.
Like myself, you seem concerned about the use of blind rivets. I
learned to late not to sweat the occasional use of blind rivets. They
are easily filled in and after painting, you'll never be able to tell
the difference. Make sure you use a "pop rivet dimple die" and the
CS4-4 rivets will fit and work great. I made mincemeat out of some
skins in places where a blind rivet would have saved me not only lots of
time and frustration but would have looked better in the end.
When it comes time to build the ailerons, you'll be using about 45 blind
rivets on the bottom of EACH aileron so what's a couple of blind rivets
here or there?. I'll say it again, unless your plan is to fly an
unpainted/polished plane, you wont see the blind rivets if you perform a
little finish work on the rivets prior to painting.
You can see how I made the "riblets" here.
http://bmnellis.com/elevator4.htm
I used a little riblet when I built my aileron trim tab as well but used
a different method to layout and cut the riblet. You can see the clay
technique I used here:
http://bmnellis.com/wings_ailerons_trim.htm
Good luck,
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: bedrock(at)theriver.com
To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:21 PM
Subject: [RV7and7A] Elevator and tim tab bends
Ok, I can't put it off any longer. It's time to bent the "ears" of
the trim tab and the elevator trim tab cut out. Any suggestions on
how not to screw this up? I've got a lot of hours in these parts and
now I'm getting nervous about taking a hammer to them. And while I'm
asking has anyone figured out how to use solid rivets in the the LH
rear elevator spar outboard of the cut out?
Thanks in advance
Neil
emmpenage almost complete but not out of danger yet!
ADVERTISEMENT
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
The tax bill depends on your state. When you get your N-number, it goes
into a file that's available to state sales tax collectors. If they are
looking, then whenever they get around to it, they send you a bill.
Here in Louisiana, it took them about a year to get around to it. Then they
told me I had to pay a penalty for being a year late paying! Before I got
the bill, I had asked around (but not very hard, I admit) trying to figure
out what I was supposed to do and nobody seemed to know. Eventually, they
agreed that if I was nice and sent them receipts and all and paid the tax,
they wouldn't assess the penalty.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TwoAviators [mailto:TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 2:44 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bill of sale?
>
>
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks)
> fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans,
> etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like
> that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
Call Barbara at Van's, she handles all of these. 503-678-6545.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: paint before assembly |
As one who has been through this I would echo Ken's remarks exactly. I
painted before final assembly and didn't incur a single scratch in the final
assembly process. Ken's comment that you might be rushing just a bit also
rings true with regard to paint schemes... I went through four "final" paint
schemes and the extra time taken to think them through helped me arrive at
one that I'm truly happy with. Imagine the feeling in your gut of not being
happy with your paint scheme, yikes!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
> I am finishing up my RV-7 horizontal stab and have the usual amount of Oh
> s**t riveting dents, etc. I am planning on using the Sherwin Williams
> polyurethane paint system and was wondering if there are any down sides to
> going ahead and finishing the tail group through final white top coat.
> Naturally there will be a possibility of scratching the final top coat
> during final assembly but that can be minimized, I think, with care.
>
> Sure would like to get the dings filled and a final top coat applied so I
> won't have to look at the screw ups for the next couple of years.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - finishing HS, wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
>
>
> Steve,
>
> I just finished painting my RV-6 and am doing the final assembly now. My
> experience, so far, is that it is a good idea to paint the airplane in
> parts. This allows you to take the parts to an automotive painter to
paint
> in a good paint booth. However, you may be rushing it a little. You will
> have to fit the empennage parts to the fuselage and fit, or fabricate, an
> intersection fairing. I would make sure you have made all "adjustments"
to
> the various parts before final painting. To do this you will have to
> assemble, fit, then disassemble all of the parts.
>
> My approach would be to alodine the parts now to help resist corrosion.
> When you have finished the airplane (still in pieces), then etch, alodine,
> corrosion prime, repair dents, sanding primer (as needed), sand, and top
> coat.
>
> BTW I highly recommend the Sherwin Williams JetGlo paint.
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
What triggers the call/letter from most state tax collectors is the act
registering the aircraft with the FAA. The AC registration, AC form 8050-3,
(not the N number reservation) is reported to the state of record of the
owner by the FAA. I registered my Glasair III while it was still in pieces
and had no added value other than the kit cost. That way I controlled my use
tax bite (6% in Connecticut).
They will find you.....
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill of sale?
I was just a Van's to get a Bill of Sale. All you do is request one. They
print them up once a week. I don't know about the tax question.
Ross Mickey
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
I think I got lucky. I got a bill of sale from Van's, but it said $1 on it.
I just registered my airplane in the state, and they never said a word about
taxes. Your state may differ.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bill of sale?
Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
please.
Dan Ward
81243 almost there
N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
Has anyone out there had to pay a sales or use tax in
the state of Idaho?
Thanks,
Ross Schlotthauer
Wings RV7
--- Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I think I got lucky. I got a bill of sale from
> Van's, but it said $1 on it.
> I just registered my airplane in the state, and they
> never said a word about
> taxes. Your state may differ.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Bill of sale?
>
>
>
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4
> weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale
> from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something
> like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> or any other
> ad-free, and
> to be!
>
> MESSAGES !!
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
bruce.
don't you need some kind of inspection before you register the aircraft, and
if yours were still in kit form? what did you do for the inspector? point to
a roll of fiberglass and a bucket of resin?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
Group
I'm sorry if I made some angry but people were emailing me saying they were sending
their caps late, I just wanted to give them a Little more time. I'm not
in the Office this week but plan on starting them on Monday if this has caused
a problem, I'm truly sorry but I would rather set the machine up once and be
done with the batch it's easier to keep up with all the caps that way.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
You can register the airplane (kit) at anytime with the FAA. You need the
FAA inspection to get your Airworthyness Certificate. The registration is
the title.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill of sale?
bruce.
don't you need some kind of inspection before you register the aircraft, and
if yours were still in kit form? what did you do for the inspector? point to
a roll of fiberglass and a bucket of resin?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: paint before assembly |
Steve,
I appreciate your not wanting to see the dings untill your plane is finished.
I found that the occasional blemish bothered the H out of me for a while. But
as the project progressed through the years the minor blemishes became much
less noticeable and in many cases not noticeable at all. If you look
carefully at flying RV's you can in most cases see a progression in the
builders skill level as the project progressed.
You will also probably find that you will store completed components of the
airframe out of harms way and not in immediate view so you will not be
constantly reminded of the little boo boos.
Another consideration is that there are constant improvements being made in
paint and primers. It is possible that you will change your mind about the
materials you use when the plane is ready to paint.
So, IMHO keep moving forward with the project, congratulate yourself on your
successes, and don"t beat yourself up over minor imperfections.
Bill
RV6
wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
I have an official FAA registration for a partly built Vari-Eze. Never been
inspected. You will find it as N34CG. Registered it long before I stopped
building; About 1978. Tax man wanted some money, but since it doesn't have
an airworthiness certificate, it isn't an airplane... yet. So I didn't pay.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill of sale?
bruce.
don't you need some kind of inspection before you register the aircraft, and
if yours were still in kit form? what did you do for the inspector? point to
a roll of fiberglass and a bucket of resin?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
Go to them before they come to you! Play stupid, give them a receipt for your
fuselage kit and ask what you owe. The rest of your parts were purchased
locally and you paid state tax on them.
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose Ignition (Electroair) wiring question |
Jeff advises in his instructions to wire his ignition to the battery side
and not the bus side of the system. I am guessing this is so the ignition
will always have power, even if the main bus is off. I have used electric
Bob's main, essential, and battery bus concept. I want to wire the ignition
to the "always hot" battery bus via a 5 amp fuse. The power wire will go
from the battery bus to the switch and then on to the ignition. This will
serve the same purpose since the battery bus has power even when the main
and essential buses are off.
Anyone done this or see a problem with this setup?
I also want to use 18 awg shielded to run the power wire instead of 20awg
recomended in instructions since I already have some. Any problem with
this?
I also want to run all of the EI plugs on the bottom and the mag plugs on
top. Any comments?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
(instruction impaired)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Ignition (Electroair) wiring question |
In a message dated 10/31/01 9:14:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6bldr(at)home.com writes:
<< Jeff advises in his instructions to wire his ignition to the battery side
and not the bus side of the system. I am guessing this is so the ignition
will always have power, even if the main bus is off. I have used electric
Bob's main, essential, and battery bus concept. I want to wire the ignition
to the "always hot" battery bus via a 5 amp fuse. The power wire will go
from the battery bus to the switch and then on to the ignition. This will
serve the same purpose since the battery bus has power even when the main
and essential buses are off.
Anyone done this or see a problem with this setup?
I also want to use 18 awg shielded to run the power wire instead of 20awg
recomended in instructions since I already have some. Any problem with
this?
I also want to run all of the EI plugs on the bottom and the mag plugs on
top. Any comments?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
(instruction impaired) >>
Jerry,
I've got the Rose ignition (a product I can heartily recommend after 100
hours), and can offer the following observations:
-I'm not a EE, but running the fused, shielded, 18 gauge wire to the battery
bus sounds fine.
-I'm happy with my decision to put the mag fired plugs on bottom, but think
your plan is fine.
The long version of the plug location decision: Jeff recommends using the EI
plugs on the bottom. This is because they have a stronger spark and are less
likely to foul than the mag fired plugs. I chickened out and put the mag
plugs on the bottom because I had a fear that the "snap-on" auto plug wires
might vibrate off. In hindsight the fear was unfounded - the plug wires
supplied by Jeff are very high quality and the ends attach very positively.
For what it is worth, I have not experienced a single fouled plug on either
the mag or EI system.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Ignition (Electroair) wiring question |
Kyle,
Thanks for the input. I will let this post bounce around the list for a
while and see what comes up. Guess I could always bounce it off Jeff. Glad
to hear you like Jeff's ignition. I am impressed with the construction and
the extreme ease of installation. I am running a 160hp 0-320 with Sensenich
prop and I think that ignition will do just fine.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 tip up
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jeff Rose Ignition (Electroair) wiring question
>
> In a message dated 10/31/01 9:14:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv6bldr(at)home.com writes:
>
> << Jeff advises in his instructions to wire his ignition to the battery
side
> and not the bus side of the system. I am guessing this is so the
ignition
> will always have power, even if the main bus is off. I have used
electric
> Bob's main, essential, and battery bus concept. I want to wire the
ignition
> to the "always hot" battery bus via a 5 amp fuse. The power wire will go
> from the battery bus to the switch and then on to the ignition. This
will
> serve the same purpose since the battery bus has power even when the main
> and essential buses are off.
>
> Anyone done this or see a problem with this setup?
>
> I also want to use 18 awg shielded to run the power wire instead of 20awg
> recomended in instructions since I already have some. Any problem with
> this?
>
> I also want to run all of the EI plugs on the bottom and the mag plugs on
> top. Any comments?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
> (instruction impaired) >>
>
> Jerry,
>
> I've got the Rose ignition (a product I can heartily recommend after 100
> hours), and can offer the following observations:
>
> -I'm not a EE, but running the fused, shielded, 18 gauge wire to the
battery
> bus sounds fine.
>
> -I'm happy with my decision to put the mag fired plugs on bottom, but
think
> your plan is fine.
>
> The long version of the plug location decision: Jeff recommends using the
EI
> plugs on the bottom. This is because they have a stronger spark and are
less
> likely to foul than the mag fired plugs. I chickened out and put the mag
> plugs on the bottom because I had a fear that the "snap-on" auto plug
wires
> might vibrate off. In hindsight the fear was unfounded - the plug wires
> supplied by Jeff are very high quality and the ends attach very
positively.
>
> For what it is worth, I have not experienced a single fouled plug on
either
> the mag or EI system.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Battery Problems |
Hello Everyone
Last year when I bought my RV-4, it came with a wheelchair
battery installed because the a/c was used mostly for sport
aerobatic.Needless to say that battery didn't have the cracking power
required when the weather turned cold.So as I was also planning to do
prolong inverted flight I bought a Gill sealed gel battery.My problem is
that if I don't fly for "lets say" a week when I try to start the engine ,it
just turn about a 1/4 turn then the battery lose power and my flying buddy
is stocked with handpropping the aircraft.
I do believe the problem is the battery not keeping it's
charge ( pretty ovious)but what I wanna know is :Is there anyone using this
kind of battery with the same problem and if you do aerobatic
(Inverted )with a different kind which one would you recommend?
If using a lead acid battery, did you ever have any problems
with leaks or fumes?
Thank you
Bruno Dionne
RV-4 C-GDBH
fo320(at)sympatico.ca
P.S# The charging system has been checked and I also have a Skytech starter
installed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share for Lyle Hefel's
Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Poly Epoxy on Canopy |
I have been using "Poly Epoxy" resin to do the fiberglass work on my RV-4.
I am getting ready to do the front canopy fairing. I understand that epoxy
resin will not affect the Plexiglas whereas polyester will. Poly Epoxy is
supposed to be epoxy but the "Poly" in the name has me concerned. Has
anyone else used Poly Epoxy on their canopy. Results?
Thanks,
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I got a tax bill when I registered the airplane. The State gets a monthly
list of new registrations and looks for in-state addresses. I would have had
no bill had I paid "use tax" on each purchase along the way. I do not know
what would have been the outcome had I registered the airplane at an earlier
stage.
I wrote Van's and asked for the bill of sale. I got it a week later. No
problem. No tax bill. As I recall the BOS did not mention what price I paid.
What kind of RV are you finishing?
Steve Soule
RV-6A, Huntington, Vermont
10+ hours
-----Original Message-----Good news and bad news. I am
almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans,
etc etc. Am I
going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like
that? Thoughts
please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
What do I put in the "engine" section of the metal data plate? Engine
Horsepower (180 hp), or Engine model (O-360-A1A), or Engine Type (Lycoming)?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
> What do I put in the "engine" section of the metal data plate? Engine
> Horsepower (180 hp), or Engine model (O-360-A1A), or Engine Type
(Lycoming)?
>
Since nothing at all is required there, I would say put whichever you would
prefer.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Problems |
Bruno,
We have the Powersonic 18amp sealed battery (13 lbs. We have not had any
problem starting our IO-360 (cold or hot) even with 3-weeks between starts.
You may want to check for a ground short - sounds like the battery is
discharging.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (24.5 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV LIST"
>Subject: RV-List: Battery Problems
>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 23:13:10 -0500
>
>
>Hello Everyone
> Last year when I bought my RV-4, it came with a wheelchair
>battery installed because the a/c was used mostly for sport
>aerobatic.Needless to say that battery didn't have the cracking power
>required when the weather turned cold.So as I was also planning to do
>prolong inverted flight I bought a Gill sealed gel battery.My problem is
>that if I don't fly for "lets say" a week when I try to start the engine
>,it
>just turn about a 1/4 turn then the battery lose power and my flying buddy
>is stocked with handpropping the aircraft.
> I do believe the problem is the battery not keeping it's
>charge ( pretty ovious)but what I wanna know is :Is there anyone using this
>kind of battery with the same problem and if you do aerobatic
>(Inverted )with a different kind which one would you recommend?
> If using a lead acid battery, did you ever have any problems
>with leaks or fumes?
>
>Thank you
>
>Bruno Dionne
>RV-4 C-GDBH
>fo320(at)sympatico.ca
>
>P.S# The charging system has been checked and I also have a Skytech starter
>installed.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hoggwild(at)swbell.net |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
about state sales tax.. what if we could buy the kit online. would we have to
pay sales tax?
RV6ator(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Go to them before they come to you! Play stupid, give them a receipt for your
> fuselage kit and ask what you owe. The rest of your parts were purchased
> locally and you paid state tax on them.
>
> Bill Mahoney
> RV-6 N747W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
>Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share for Lyle Hefel's
>Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
>
>
>Ken
Where did he get the wheel for his elevator trim?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | General question about the RV-9A |
RV-9A builders,
I read on Van's web site that the entire RV-9A kit comes match-drilled. I
see on the builder web sites what looks to be drilling skins to ribs, etc.
just like I did on my RV-6A. How much of the kit is actually match-drilled
by computer and how much do the builders jig and drill?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Problems |
Get an Odyssey battery. This is dry cell technology. They can sit on a
shelf for 6 months and still have 90% charge left. I have two #625 in my
RV-8A (dual electronic ignitions, all electric IFR panel) but this is over
kill for most people.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (fiberglass fun)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Battery Problems
>
> Hello Everyone
> Last year when I bought my RV-4, it came with a wheelchair
> battery installed because the a/c was used mostly for sport
> aerobatic.Needless to say that battery didn't have the cracking power
> required when the weather turned cold.So as I was also planning to do
> prolong inverted flight I bought a Gill sealed gel battery.My problem is
> that if I don't fly for "lets say" a week when I try to start the engine
,it
> just turn about a 1/4 turn then the battery lose power and my flying buddy
> is stocked with handpropping the aircraft.
> I do believe the problem is the battery not keeping it's
> charge ( pretty ovious)but what I wanna know is :Is there anyone using
this
> kind of battery with the same problem and if you do aerobatic
> (Inverted )with a different kind which one would you recommend?
> If using a lead acid battery, did you ever have any problems
> with leaks or fumes?
>
> Thank you
>
> Bruno Dionne
> RV-4 C-GDBH
> fo320(at)sympatico.ca
>
> P.S# The charging system has been checked and I also have a Skytech
starter
> installed.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Well it's about that time of year again....... |
RV-Listers,
I would just like to point out that it's November first and experienced
list members know what that means. It's time for our annual fund raiser for
Matt for providing us with this fabulous List so that we can get all the
help we need with our RV projects. Sometimes that help is technical and
sometimes it's mental. Most of us can't deny that the list has some value
to them. Well now is the time to tell Matt what the list means to you. Make
a donation to the Matronics List Services fund. It's purely voluntary. You
decide what it's worth to you. You just have to click on the link below and
you can make your donation via credit card. Or you can send Matt a check
at the address below. I will be making posts from time to time to remind
you of the continuing fund raiser and Matt will post a list of all donors
after the drive is over November 30th. I won't be tugging at your heart
strings this year and I won't be trying to shame you into donating. I'm
just going to leave it up to you to do the right thing for your
situation. Thanks for reading......... and let's make this a success for
Matt he's been working hard and making some great improvements. AL
SSL Secure Web: http://www.matronics.com/contributoin
USMail: Matronics
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-9A Empennage video |
All, sorry for the commercial announcement. We have the RV-9A video
available for $33.00 plus shipping. As with the other empennage videos, we
cover assembly step by step. Please email, fax (940-648-0842), or call
(940-648-0841) if we can help you.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Well it's about that time of year again....... |
WHAT !!!!!!!! Ya gota tug at da hart strings and bea shamen us, dat's part
of whats maken deese lists great. We bea needen 2 be kicked in the pants
sews we ken create mundane and silly responces dat keep the lists 'live anda
verken. KABONG :
) (Y yes I did, every year. Did U)
----- Original Message -----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Well it's about that time of year again.......
>
> RV-Listers,
>
> I would just like to point out that it's November first and experienced
I won't be tugging at your heart
> strings this year and I won't be trying to shame you into donating. I'm
> just going to leave it up to you to do the right thing for your
> situation. > USMail: Matronics
> c/o Matt Dralle
> PO Box 347
> Livermore CA 94551
> Al Mojzisik
> InAir Instruments, LLC
> Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
> AOA and SO much more!
> http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-9A empennage for sale |
RV-9A empennage complete except for fiberglass tips. Asking $1000.
New kit is $3120. Please call George or Becki Orndroff 940-648-0841.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: General question about the RV-9A |
The holes are punched undersize, just big enough to get a cleko in. The
builder still has to loosly jig, cleako together and drill out the holes to
final size. No layout of holes is required.
Gary Zilik RV-6A 180/CS
I flew the 9A in Las Cruces and was very impressed with the performance.
While it is not as nimble as my 6A it still has the RV response to control
input. The stick forces are greater (3 times?) but does not effect how it
flies. One great airplane. It jumps off the runway with it's 160 horse and MT
C/S prop.
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> RV-9A builders,
>
> I read on Van's web site that the entire RV-9A kit comes match-drilled. I
> see on the builder web sites what looks to be drilling skins to ribs, etc.
> just like I did on my RV-6A. How much of the kit is actually match-drilled
> by computer and how much do the builders jig and drill?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A flying
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
There is no regulatory babble about this so you can do anything you want.
But what I have seen most people put is "Lyc 0-360-A1A". Or something close
to that.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Data Plate
>Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 06:40:44 -0600
>
>
>
>What do I put in the "engine" section of the metal data plate? Engine
>Horsepower (180 hp), or Engine model (O-360-A1A), or Engine Type
>(Lycoming)?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
The Louisiana tax folks explained that since it was a "use tax" not a "sales
tax" it was not subject to the internet exemption. If that sounds like a
crock to you, welcome to the club.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hoggwild(at)swbell.net [mailto:hoggwild(at)swbell.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 7:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill of sale?
>
>
>
> about state sales tax.. what if we could buy the kit online.
> would we have to
> pay sales tax?
>
> RV6ator(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Go to them before they come to you! Play stupid, give them
> a receipt for your
> > fuselage kit and ask what you owe. The rest of your parts
> were purchased
> > locally and you paid state tax on them.
> >
> > Bill Mahoney
> > RV-6 N747W
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Navaid Intercepting a Course |
Howdy--
This morning Joe Wiza and I flew the shakedown flight of his
Navaid/Smart Coupler II attached by an A-B switch to a Garmin 295 on the
left and a 195 on the right, attacjed to the instrument panel with RAM
swivel mounts (beautiful things).
Someone had posted a note a while back saying the Navaid will not
intercept a course. Well, flying on either the 295 or 195 (you have to
remember to turn ON the NMEA DATA OUT command in each GPS unit) it
locked on to track 081 to Arcadia (X06) then made a turn and intercepted
211 degrees (a 130 degree turn) to Charlotte County (PGD). A nearest/GO
TO command brought it around to 261 and back to VNC.
There was a slow oscillating, small excursion wing rock as it made
corrections tracking course, however, there was a 20 kt headwind
slightly off the nose, so we'll have to repeat things in calmer
conditions and see if the wing rock persists. It's also possible the
servo gain is set just a little too high.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2001 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Forums sponsored here. Your contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
This year, I've made some substantial improvements to the Lists and the
supporting systems. These upgrades are focused on making your experience
here faster, more enjoyable, and most importantly, informative. Here is a
partial list of improvements that I've made on the systems this year:
o Upgraded Web Server
- Minimum 6X increase in performance *
- Tons more high performance disk space and memory!
- Increased availability and reliability - UPS Backup
- Improved support for > 130,000 Archive Searches each year!
* See http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/RV-SearchTime.jpg
o Email System Disk Subsystem Upgrade
- More storage and faster access times
- Faster redistribution of List Messages
- Processed over 45,000 List messages in 2001; 50,000 in 2000!
o All new List Browse Feature *
- Browse the last seven day's worth of List Messages
- Quick access to current threads
- Sort messages by Thread, Date, Subject, or Author
* See http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
o All new Photo Share Feature * &
- Simply email your photos and files to share
- Scanned for viruses
- Automatic Web Page Generation
- Includes descriptions and poster information
* See http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
& Officially to be announced soon
o Transition To High Performance Internet Service Provider
- Improved reliability
- Better access from most sites on the Internet
- Improved throughput
These are just some of the more visible improvements I've implemented this
year. I'm always working to improve the behind the scenes operation of the
Lists. I've built an elaborate system of message text and source address
filtering mechanisms to assure that you only receive text data in the
message, spam is nearly non-existent, computer viruses are never propagated
through the Lists, and that message post redistribution is smooth and
trouble free.
This year has seen a lot of improvements in the Email List experience. If
you enjoy the Forums here and make use of the many features, won't you take
a moment and make a Contribution to support the continued operation and
maintenance? Please note there is no advertising funding on the
Lists. You don't see annoying banner ads in the Email messages or on any
of the web pages. This just seems more friendly to me and makes the List
experience just that much more personal.
The operation of these Lists is supported *completely* through the
donations of List Members just like you!
Please take a moment to support your Lists by making a Secure Credit Card
Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or you may send a personal check to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their Contribution and for
their continued support over the past year!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Intercepting a Course |
i'm not sure what the NMEA data is but per the Navaid folks the only thing
it does is change turn rate based on CDI voltage output from the GPS. it's a
completely analog device. this is why changing the resolution of the CDI
output is so critical, the higher the resolution the more sensitive the A/P
will be. i set my garmin to the highest resolution (i believe it was 0.3
miles) and have gotten pretty good results including what you refer to as
"course intercept".
regarding the wing rocking, i have experienced that too. i kind'a gotten
used to it..i'm not sure it's a cross wind issue, particularly since the GPS
is supposed to compensate for that. i think it has something to do with the
Navaid gyro accuracy but would love to get others' opinions/experience too
Moshe Lichtman
RV6 flying
RV6A for sale
>From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rocket-list(at)matronics.com" ,
>"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Navaid Intercepting a Course
>Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 12:23:36 -0500
>
>
>Howdy--
>
>This morning Joe Wiza and I flew the shakedown flight of his
>Navaid/Smart Coupler II attached by an A-B switch to a Garmin 295 on the
>left and a 195 on the right, attacjed to the instrument panel with RAM
>swivel mounts (beautiful things).
>
>Someone had posted a note a while back saying the Navaid will not
>intercept a course. Well, flying on either the 295 or 195 (you have to
>remember to turn ON the NMEA DATA OUT command in each GPS unit) it
>locked on to track 081 to Arcadia (X06) then made a turn and intercepted
>211 degrees (a 130 degree turn) to Charlotte County (PGD). A nearest/GO
>TO command brought it around to 261 and back to VNC.
>
>There was a slow oscillating, small excursion wing rock as it made
>corrections tracking course, however, there was a 20 kt headwind
>slightly off the nose, so we'll have to repeat things in calmer
>conditions and see if the wing rock persists. It's also possible the
>servo gain is set just a little too high.
>
>Boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Wow! the empennage is sold. Thanks to all those interested.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Intercepting a Course |
I have tried all fixes suggested by NavAid and I can't eliminate wing
rocking. It is irritating to me in still air, but one doesn't notice it in
light or worse turbulance.
I asked 8 NavAid RV owners about it at OSH. None of the 8 had ever flown
with an autopilot before and 6 out of 8 weren't sure if they had it or not,
but didn't seem to care. The other two said they had it but didn't mind it.
I guess I'm getting used to it but I sure wish there was a cure. The
damping resistor did nothing to help it.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
Hamphshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Intercepting a Course
>
> regarding the wing rocking, i have experienced that too. i kind'a gotten
> used to it..i'm not sure it's a cross wind issue, particularly since the
GPS
> is supposed to compensate for that. i think it has something to do with
the
> Navaid gyro accuracy but would love to get others' opinions/experience too
>
> Moshe Lichtman
> RV6 flying
> RV6A for sale
>
> >From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "rocket-list(at)matronics.com" ,
> >"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> >Subject: RV-List: Navaid Intercepting a Course
> >Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 12:23:36 -0500
> >
> >
> >Howdy--
> >
> >This morning Joe Wiza and I flew the shakedown flight of his
> >Navaid/Smart Coupler II attached by an A-B switch to a Garmin 295 on the
> >left and a 195 on the right, attacjed to the instrument panel with RAM
> >swivel mounts (beautiful things).
> >
> >Someone had posted a note a while back saying the Navaid will not
> >intercept a course. Well, flying on either the 295 or 195 (you have to
> >remember to turn ON the NMEA DATA OUT command in each GPS unit) it
> >locked on to track 081 to Arcadia (X06) then made a turn and intercepted
> >211 degrees (a 130 degree turn) to Charlotte County (PGD). A nearest/GO
> >TO command brought it around to 261 and back to VNC.
> >
> >There was a slow oscillating, small excursion wing rock as it made
> >corrections tracking course, however, there was a 20 kt headwind
> >slightly off the nose, so we'll have to repeat things in calmer
> >conditions and see if the wing rock persists. It's also possible the
> >servo gain is set just a little too high.
> >
> >Boyd
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com> |
Question to the list:
What is a good source for Lycoming Mag Drive Gears?
We will be using one Electronic Ignition and one Mag, so we need to supply a
mag drive gear to our engine builder for the sensor that replaces the mag.
Thanks
Michael V. Nightingale
Deere & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
nightingalemichael(at)johndeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Intercepting a Course |
You're right in that the Navaid receives and processes an analog R/L
signal from a VOR/Loran/panel mount GPS or CDI output. The Smart
Coupler changes the digital NMEA 0183 data from the handheld GPS to the
analog signal that the Navaid uses. You don't need a Smart Coupler if
your NAV unit outputs a R/L signal from its back panel (the same one
that would go to the CDI) The Smart Coupler is set to a course width of
1.25 NM at the factory.
A weak VOR signal (ie, low altitude or great distance, or a low gain
setting on the servo) can cause a snake-like wandering back and forth
across the heading line ("scalloping"). The wing rocking is "probably"
caused by the gain on the servo motor set a little too high, causing a
slight overshoot/overcorrection that oscillates, sort of like an
intention tremor in humans. You have to take the cover off of the servo
unit to adjust this (but see the note from Dennis Persyk).
FYI, Joe and I stopped by the Navaid shop in Chattanooga, TN to visit
with the Boss Man and talk shop, etc. I would not recommend this. It's
pretty much like seeing how hamburger is made, starting with the killing
of the cow--it's not a pretty sight. Just order your unit and accept on
faith that it will work, lots of faith.
Boyd
Moshe Lichtman wrote:
>
>
> i'm not sure what the NMEA data is but per the Navaid folks the only thing
> it does is change turn rate based on CDI voltage output from the GPS. it's a
> completely analog device. this is why changing the resolution of the CDI
> output is so critical, the higher the resolution the more sensitive the A/P
> will be. i set my garmin to the highest resolution (i believe it was 0.3
> miles) and have gotten pretty good results including what you refer to as
> "course intercept".
>
> regarding the wing rocking, i have experienced that too. i kind'a gotten
> used to it..i'm not sure it's a cross wind issue, particularly since the GPS
> is supposed to compensate for that. i think it has something to do with the
> Navaid gyro accuracy but would love to get others' opinions/experience too
>
> Moshe Lichtman
> RV6 flying
> RV6A for sale
>
> >From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "rocket-list(at)matronics.com" ,
> >"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> >Subject: RV-List: Navaid Intercepting a Course
> >Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 12:23:36 -0500
> >
> >
> >Howdy--
> >
> >This morning Joe Wiza and I flew the shakedown flight of his
> >Navaid/Smart Coupler II attached by an A-B switch to a Garmin 295 on the
> >left and a 195 on the right, attacjed to the instrument panel with RAM
> >swivel mounts (beautiful things).
> >
> >Someone had posted a note a while back saying the Navaid will not
> >intercept a course. Well, flying on either the 295 or 195 (you have to
> >remember to turn ON the NMEA DATA OUT command in each GPS unit) it
> >locked on to track 081 to Arcadia (X06) then made a turn and intercepted
> >211 degrees (a 130 degree turn) to Charlotte County (PGD). A nearest/GO
> >TO command brought it around to 261 and back to VNC.
> >
> >There was a slow oscillating, small excursion wing rock as it made
> >corrections tracking course, however, there was a 20 kt headwind
> >slightly off the nose, so we'll have to repeat things in calmer
> >conditions and see if the wing rock persists. It's also possible the
> >servo gain is set just a little too high.
> >
> >Boyd
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Re: Well it's about that time of year again....... |
Al Mojzisik misspelled the contribution page URL. "contributoin" is spelled:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
:-)
Matt
>--------------
>
>RV-Listers,
>
>I would just like to point out that it's November first and experienced
>list members know what that means. It's time for our annual fund raiser for
>Matt for providing us with this fabulous List so that we can get all the
>help we need with our RV projects. Sometimes that help is technical and
>sometimes it's mental. Most of us can't deny that the list has some value
>to them. Well now is the time to tell Matt what the list means to you. Make
>a donation to the Matronics List Services fund. It's purely voluntary. You
>decide what it's worth to you. You just have to click on the link below and
>you can make your donation via credit card. Or you can send Matt a check
>at the address below. I will be making posts from time to time to remind
>you of the continuing fund raiser and Matt will post a list of all donors
>after the drive is over November 30th. I won't be tugging at your heart
>strings this year and I won't be trying to shame you into donating. I'm
>just going to leave it up to you to do the right thing for your
>situation. Thanks for reading......... and let's make this a success for
>Matt he's been working hard and making some great improvements. AL
>
>SSL Secure Web: http://www.matronics.com/contributoin
>
>USMail: Matronics
>c/o Matt Dralle
>PO Box 347
>Livermore CA 94551
>
>
>Al Mojzisik
>InAir Instruments, LLC
>Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
>AOA and SO much more!
>http://www.liftreserve.com
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mag drive gear |
In a message dated 11/1/01 3:18:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com writes:
<< Question to the list:
What is a good source for Lycoming Mag Drive Gears?
We will be using one Electronic Ignition and one Mag, so we need to supply a
mag drive gear to our engine builder for the sensor that replaces the mag.
Thanks
Michael V. Nightingale
Deere & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265 >>
Jeff Rose @ Electroair sells 'em at a good price. Also, Wentworth and other
sellers of used aircraft parts have them. When I was looking, Jeff had the
best price.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
I am trying to assist Kennon Aircraft in developing an insulated cowl cover
for the RV-4. I am in Wisconsin and they are in Sheridan, Wyoming so it's a
little hard for them to measure my aircraft. Is there anyone out there in
RV Land who may know of any RV-4 owners near Sheridan that might be willing
to have Kennon use their airplane as a model to develop a RV-4 cowling
cover? They might also be interested in developing covers for other model
RVs also.
Please contact me off list if you can help.
Thanks
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mag drive gear |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/01/2001 03:40:28 PM
We manufacture them. Ours are FAA-PMA'd and at a significant savings.
You'll need to determine if you're gear is for a direct drive mag or
impulse coupled.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin" <RMCKEE(at)MN.RR.COM> |
I have had problems with batteries in my motorcycles and airplanes are
also subject to alot of vibration which destroys batteries. If you get
yourself a battery that last over three years you are lucky.... Another
problem I had was the battery loosing power while in storage. An easy
cure is to apply a battery maintainer or automatic charger. A fully
automatic charger will shut off completely when the battery is charged
and as the voltage falls the charger will turn on only long enough to
return the battery to a full charge. Letting your battery get low on
voltage is very hard on the battery and shortens it's useful life..You
can buy a fully automatic charger at your local K-Mart store for around
50 or 60 dollars...Do not confuse a fully automatic charger with a
trickle charger. A trickle charger, if left on too long will burn up
your good battery even if it is new out of the box.... If you have a
trickle charger place it where you will never use it again, "The Trash
Can".
Robin from Minnesota.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Posted for a friend:
1996 RV-4, 220-TT, 180HP O-360A1D, 220-SOH, C/S prop 220-SN, Com/GPS,
transponder/encoder, full gyro panel, elec flaps, Vetterman exhaust,
$55,000.
For further information, contact Ted at 817-545-7400 or email
Tedwh(at)dellepro.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety & operating costs |
In the last post we were choosing an engine and now with the engine in
hand we need to get it attached to the firewall.
The first step will be to determine the type of mount required and
advise Van's when we order the finishing kit. There are three
possibilities that I know of, Dyno-focal 1, Dyno-focal 2 and conical. I
am guessing that the most common and also the most popular is the
Dyno-focal 1 which supposedly has the best vibration dampening
characteristics. The Dyno-focal 2 is basically the same as the 1 except
it has a different angle on the pick-up points and is not a very common
one. The conical is also a very common mount has simpler and less
expensive mounting hardware, in any case this is probably something you
would want to consider in choosing your engine. Having flown aircraft
with both types of mounts, if both are well maintained and the prop well
balanced, for me it would be hard to tell the difference.
With the correct mount bolted to the fire wall it is decision time
again. For me these bolts have to be properly torqued and the only way
this can be done accurately is with a calibrated micro-adjustable torque
wrench, "please don't use the flexible handle type". Every bolt in the
entire aircraft that is critical to the structure should be torqued to
the correct value so a good torque wrench should be part of our tool
cabinet or be available through sharing with others. They are available
for example from Sears (Craftsman) for under a $100.00. You will also
need it as long as you maintain your own aircraft and calibrating it
should be done as recommended by the manufacturer.
I torque the firewall to engine mount bolts down but don't safety them
at this point, then hang the engine being careful to follow the correct
sequence for the mounts especially in the case of the Lord mounts. To
hang my engine I was able to use a 1000 lb. set of chain falls suspended
from the ceiling and hooked to the lifting lug on top of the
crankcase,don.t use this lug to lift the fuselage. I also us the chain
falls to lift the fuselage with a strap around the engine mount were it
attaches to the firewall to install the gear.
Next I temporarily install the prop, not torqued just snugged up, then
the spinner and on to the cowlings and baffles.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Just curious, being an RV-4 builder and hopefully a flyer one day. Why
would one want to cover the cowling?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler [mailto:doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 1:01 PM
To: RV List
Subject: RV-List: Cowling cover
Fellow Listers:
I am trying to assist Kennon Aircraft in developing an
insulated cowl cover
for the RV-4. I am in Wisconsin and they are in Sheridan,
Wyoming so it's a
little hard for them to measure my aircraft. Is there
anyone out there in
RV Land who may know of any RV-4 owners near Sheridan that
might be willing
to have Kennon use their airplane as a model to develop a
RV-4 cowling
cover? They might also be interested in developing covers
for other model
RVs also.
Please contact me off list if you can help.
Thanks
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
Contributions
other
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list
pictures(at)matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dralle@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | strobe brightness |
Hi All,
Sorry about this late entry but, been away for some training on
non-list related subjects (Anthrax).
To kind of support Paul and the nonPMA'd strobes Norman is right in a
sense. The Emergency Vehicle type strobes generally can only be seen
for approximately 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile on the ground. Mainly because of
ground clutter and absorption.
Take that same strobe with a directional reflector and aim it skyward it
can be seen by aircraft up to 5 miles or more. I know, we have used
this type of set-up along with GPS to bring medical and rescue ships
into rural or remote scenes. Sure it may not be quite as bright as
Whelen's hi-dollar lights but, why spend the money when you don't have
too? Besides, Boeing isn't building my RV.
Just MHO
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Wurster" <bernie.wurster(at)3web.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Fuel selector |
I am looking for ideas for an alternative mounting and enclosure for the
fuel selector valve. I have seen many options at various fly ins
however now that I am ready I cannot find any pictures on the internet
other than the standard Vans design. Any suggestions?
Bernie
JUST $9.95/MONTH at http://www.get3web.com/?mkid=emt123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/31/2001 6:20:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM writes:
>
> THERE IS ANOTHER WAY TO INCREASE YOUR HORSEPOWER ON THE O320 WITHOUT GOING
> TO THE O360. IN DOING SOME HOMEWORK ON THE DIESEL ENGINES BECOMING
> AVAILABLE TO THE EXPERIMENTAL AND G.A. MARKET, I'M FINDING THAT THESE MAY
> NOT BE AN OPTION FOR RV BUILDERS AND OWNERS. ALTHOUGH THE IDEA OF A 4GAL/HR
> CRUISE SETTING SOUNDS GREAT AND COST EFFECTIVE, THE INSTALLATION COST,
> WEIGHT AND COWL LIMITATIONS COULD VERY WELL TAKE THESE GEMS RIGHT OUT OF
> THE EQUATION. YOUR THOUGHTS??????
>
>
Hey Bob why are you shouting ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
>Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share for Lyle Hefel's
>Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
>
>
>Ken
Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like that much
better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the manual trim.
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Problems |
In a message dated 10/31/2001 8:14:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
fo320(at)sympatico.ca writes:
> RV-List message posted by: "Bruno"
>
> Hello Everyone
> Last year when I bought my RV-4, it came with a wheelchair
> battery installed because the a/c was used mostly for sport
> aerobatic.Needless to say that battery didn't have the cracking power
> required when the weather turned cold.So as I was also planning to do
> prolong inverted flight I bought a Gill sealed gel battery.My problem is
> that if I don't fly for "lets say" a week when I try to start the engine
> ,it
> just turn about a 1/4 turn then the battery lose power and my flying buddy
> is stocked with handpropping the aircraft.
> I do believe the problem is the battery not keeping it's
> charge ( pretty ovious)but what I wanna know is :Is there anyone using this
> kind of battery with the same problem and if you do aerobatic
> (Inverted )with a different kind which one would you recommend?
> If using a lead acid battery, did you ever have any problems
> with leaks or fumes?
>
> Thank you
>
> Bruno Dionne
> RV-4 C-GDBH
> fo320(at)sympatico.ca
>
I have an IO-360 A1B with 10-1 compression and a Interstate (brand name)
wheel chair battery, gel type. My alt charges at 14 volts and I have had no
problems starting my motor. I know that does not help you but this has worked
for me and many other RV4's and Rockets in the Bakersfield area. I have been
told they are good for 11/2 - 2 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
He made it. I think Lyle was a machinist in a prior life.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
> >
> >
> >Ken
>
> Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like that much
> better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the manual trim.
>
> Dave Berryhill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling cover |
> You, like me, may never need one. Those folk from up Wyoming and
> Wisconsin way, they get cold weather now and then and need to preheat.
> When they do that an insulated cover can be very helpful holding the heat
> in so they are not just heating all outdoors.
>
>
I'm sure I may be losing 1-2% of my therms, but when I pre-heat on cold
days, I just take an old bedroom blanket, throw it over the cowl and stuff
the loose ends in the intakes. It works great. You can feel the heat
inside when you remove the blanket and open the cowl door to check the oil
on pre-flight. Then engine always starts up nice and happy.
I think this is absolutely one of those times when that last 10% of
technology increasing the price 10 fold.
Andy
Winter Park, CO (elev. 9000')
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Thanks Mike.
I guess the wheel portion wouldn't be that difficult to make - it's the rest
of it that would be challenging. I've never seen a trim mechanism like this
apart so I'm wondering how the cable is attached or controlled by the wheel
and what type of detent mechanism allows the wheel to move in "clicks" and
provides enough friction so it stays where you put it.
Anyone know?
Dave Berryhill
>He made it. I think Lyle was a machinist in a prior life.
>
>Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
>Plainfield, IL
>RV6 N699BM Reserved
>Mounting Control Surfaces
>Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
> > >
> > >
> > >Ken
> >
> > Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like that much
> > better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the manual trim.
> >
> > Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Engine Mount |
I purchased a conical engine for my new RV-4 project. I have a new
dynafocal mount with short gear legs available for sale. Will sell legs
separately from mount.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell spinner bulkhead |
The aft spinner bulkhead for the Hartzell prop must be cut out to match
the doubler in order for the whole assembly to fit onto the prop hub.
How have people been making this cut in the bulkhead?
I'm hoping to avoid having to buy a large dollar tool (like a large
flycutter) that I'll only need once. Any other ideas...?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New List Photos Available |
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jtgarner@shentel.net
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell spinner bulkhead |
I did mine with a Dremel tool and cutting discs. Used a drill to make nice
radiused corners first, then connected the dots with the Dremel tool. A
little filing here and there, and its done.
Jim
tampa
6A FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: Hartzell spinner bulkhead
The aft spinner bulkhead for the Hartzell prop must be cut out to match
the doubler in order for the whole assembly to fit onto the prop hub.
How have people been making this cut in the bulkhead?
I'm hoping to avoid having to buy a large dollar tool (like a large
flycutter) that I'll only need once. Any other ideas...?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling cover |
> I'm sure I may be losing 1-2% of my therms, but when I pre-heat on cold
> days, I just take an old bedroom blanket, throw it over the cowl and stuff
> the loose ends in the intakes. It works great. You can feel the heat
> inside when you remove the blanket and open the cowl door to check the oil
> on pre-flight. Then engine always starts up nice and happy.
>
> I think this is absolutely one of those times when that last 10% of
> technology increasing the price 10 fold.
>
Very true Andy. I have an EZ Heat oil pan heater on my -4 (I have used
these units also on my C-180 and Citabria). I have been using an old moving
blanket to bundle up the engine which really has been working OK. Thought
I'd look into a more custom fit cover and that's how I got in touch with
Kennon. We'll see what they may come up with but if it is too pricey, I'll
keep using the old blanket.
BTW, on a cold winter day with the temps in the hangar around 15 deg, I have
recorded 55 degrees free air temp in the cowling, using the EZ Heat. Oil
temp reads about the same.
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6A Fuel selector |
| From: | tom j powers <tompowersrv6(at)juno.com> |
writes:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Bernie Wurster"
>
>
> I am looking for ideas for an alternative mounting and enclosure for
> the
> fuel selector valve. I have seen many options at various fly ins
> however now that I am ready I cannot find any pictures on the
> internet
> other than the standard Vans design. Any suggestions?
>
> My suggestion is be verry careful changing the fuel system.
The only change I made is to use an andiar positive lock fuel valve
Good luck
TOM POWERS
RV-6 ~ N5UA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Complete Kit For Sale |
Posting for a local builder...
RV-6A Kit Complete kit including Finish Kit: tip-up, manual trim.
Empennage done, wings done except for one fuel tank, fuselage skeleton
completed. Fuse jig included. 1990 vintage, non-prepunch. Must sell, lost
job, $8,000 Mike Graves 503-356-1923, 2/02
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General question about the RV-9A |
I read on Van's web site that the entire RV-9A kit comes match-drilled. I
see on the builder web sites what looks to be drilling skins to ribs, etc.
just like I did on my RV-6A. How much of the kit is actually match-drilled
by computer and how much do the builders jig and drill?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A flying
I feel qualifies to answer this as I am building a 9A. Almost all the holes
are indeed pre-punched,
both the skins and the 'innards'. They are however punched a few thousandths
undersized. After the parts are clecoed together in their final location, then
you must drill to final size which exactly matches the holes in alignment,
then rivit....
Rocky 'Trim Tab'
RV-9A emp
http:/www.hoe-thing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid Intercepting a Course |
I had some considerable rocking that involved a nice "snatch" at the end of
each rocking cycle. My Navaid servo is mounted in the wing tip. I did two
things to reduce the rocking to were I barely notice it anymore. First- make
sure that the servo arm travel uses as much wing arm throw and a little
servo arm as possible. This will maximize the servo resolution and reduce
the sensitivity. It may take a bit of descriptive geometry to calculate and
prove, but my guess is that there is a difference in response based on if
you have a short servo arm/long control arm vs short control arm/long servo
arm. Realize that the servo is connected to a offset Nautilus syle bellcrank
not just a linear arm. Second- reduce the SPAN pot in the servo as much as
possible. I think that others have mentioned this before, but it really
helped. I set mine much less than what the manual states.
btw- for those considering a wing tip install, be sure to put some kind of
rain shield over the top. If you don't water will leak in between the wing
tip and wing and cause corrosion.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 60 hrs
Tigard, OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matronics Email List Photo Share <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is now available at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fasching@amigo.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: 2001 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Hi Matt,
I just attempted to make a contribution and received the following reply:
"Security Failure. The Server Reply is Invalid."
Thanks,
John Singer
Denver, CO
RV6A QB - Just cut canopy in two.
N444JS
http://www.jgsinger.com/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | 'Sticky' Magneto question? |
During a recent annual inspection, a friend learned that his impulse magneto
was 'sticky' and required overhaul. Apparently the inpulse coupling had
become magnetised causing the coupling to lock inhibiting the impulse
operation. In every other respect the magneto worked perfectly.
Can this be recified without overhauling the magneto? What is standard
practice?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid installation RV6 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid installation RV6 |
Hi List
Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right stick
can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem and how
can it be avoided without going to wingtip mounting?
I have Van's aileron trim system and was wondering if I should install this
in addition to the Navaid?
Thank you for any help you can provide.
Bill Griffin
RV 6 tipup
getting close!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell spinner bulkhead |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
11/02/2001 08:13:53 AM
Hi Ken,
I used a milling machine with a rotary table, but a patient person could
make the cut with a Dremel tool and a file or spindle sander.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | Ken Balch |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 11/01/01 08:14 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Hartzell spinner bulkhead
|
The aft spinner bulkhead for the Hartzell prop must be cut out to match
the doubler in order for the whole assembly to fit onto the prop hub.
How have people been making this cut in the bulkhead?
I'm hoping to avoid having to buy a large dollar tool (like a large
flycutter) that I'll only need once. Any other ideas...?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid installation RV6 |
>
> Hi List
> Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right
stick
> can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem
No, there is no discernable elevator input. I have been on this list for
many years and have never heard of that problem. I have that installation
and it is not a problem on my airplane. Some people think, by looking at
it, that it could be a problem and I guess that is why the speculation keeps
recurring.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Dave,
You can find CAD drawings to make Lyle's elevator trim wheel at the SE Florida
RV Builders web site at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Controls%20%26%20Control%20Surfaces/Control%20Linkages/
Charlie Kuss
> Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like that much
> better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the manual trim.
>
> Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 'Sticky' Magneto question? |
Yes, Remove mag. Remove cotter key and nut. Pull drive gear and the impulse
should slide off. You will have to retime engine so if you remove mag at
timing marks, it is an easier job to re-install and time. NO need to
overhaul mag unless it is over 500 hours. Then both Slick and Bendix
recommend some maintenance.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: 'Sticky' Magneto question?
During a recent annual inspection, a friend learned that his impulse magneto
was 'sticky' and required overhaul. Apparently the inpulse coupling had
become magnetised causing the coupling to lock inhibiting the impulse
operation. In every other respect the magneto worked perfectly.
Can this be recified without overhauling the magneto? What is standard
practice?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 'Sticky' Magneto question? |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/02/2001 08:24:38 AM
you could take the case apart and replace just the impulse coupling only.
This would be considered a repair and not an overhaul. However, if this
magneto is a Slick mag, the impulse coupling will run about half the price
of a new replacement mag. Slick has a list price of $238.00 on the
coupling. You should expect to pay about $160-170.00.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid installation RV6 |
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi List
> Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right stick
> can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem and how
> can it be avoided without going to wingtip mounting?
Bill, the under-seat installation should provide good results even
though it is more work than the wing-tip installation.
>
> I have Van's aileron trim system and was wondering if I should install this
> in addition to the Navaid?
Yes, install the manual aileron trim system. Not only does it take some
of the load off the servo, you will want the plane in trim anytime you
are not using the Navaid.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, trapped at DCU)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag drive gear |
Not being Lycoming person, I don't know. There are several Lycoming
engines sitting around in Chapter 75. Ron White even has a O-290G that would
have Magneto drive gears. According to my Slick manual, IF you use a
impulse, you need a Lycoming #61665 drive gear and it appears that it works
for ALL Lycoming 4 cylinder engine. With no impulse, then a gear with a
different offset is used. I just don't have the number. If you want a new
Lycoming gear, be prepared for a heart attack.
I am surprised that you have to supply an additional gear. Magnetos however
do not come with a gear when you buy one. Bob Green might be another source.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mag drive gear
Question to the list:
What is a good source for Lycoming Mag Drive Gears?
We will be using one Electronic Ignition and one Mag, so we need to supply a
mag drive gear to our engine builder for the sensor that replaces the mag.
Thanks
Michael V. Nightingale
Deere & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
nightingalemichael(at)johndeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid installation RV6 |
Actually it's more than just looking at it that causes concern. During
installation on my 6A my friend demonstrated that by applying a large input
from the NavAid servo, the elevators moved. This is because of a 10 degree
vector from the servo push rod that couples into the pitch axis.
The reason the NavAid doesn't affect the pitch axis in flight is because the
restoring inputs to maintain level flight are so miniscule that the pitch
axis is totally unaffected.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid installation RV6
>
>
> >
> > Hi List
> > Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right
> stick
> > can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem
>
> No, there is no discernable elevator input. I have been on this list for
> many years and have never heard of that problem. I have that installation
> and it is not a problem on my airplane. Some people think, by looking at
> it, that it could be a problem and I guess that is why the speculation
keeps
> recurring.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid installation RV6 |
Casper has 60 plus hrs about 20 using the Navaid, never noticed any unwanted
inputs of any kind. Also when installing the servo under seat, you can save a
lot of work and avoid having to cut any seat supports or anything else by
bending the mounting tabs down 90 degrees. Doing this allows the servo to fit
between the support ribs. Mount the servo in the outermost rib bay against the
outside of the fuselage, you can just drill through fuselage and bolt one side
of the servo in place. Then make up a doubler plate from .032 and some spacers
and bolt the other side to the next seat rib. Installed this way it makes it a
10 minute job to re and re the servo. I know because I decided to add the
resistor after the servo was installed. Also Navaid approved bending the tabs
prior to my doing so. Hope this saves you some work.
Garry "Casper"
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List
> Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right stick
> can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem and how
> can it be avoided without going to wingtip mounting?
>
> I have Van's aileron trim system and was wondering if I should install this
> in addition to the Navaid?
> Thank you for any help you can provide.
> Bill Griffin
> RV 6 tipup
> getting close!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid installation RV6 |
Gary,
Do you have any pictures of this?
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid installation RV6
Casper has 60 plus hrs about 20 using the Navaid, never noticed any unwanted
inputs of any kind. Also when installing the servo under seat, you can save
a
lot of work and avoid having to cut any seat supports or anything else by
bending the mounting tabs down 90 degrees. Doing this allows the servo to
fit
between the support ribs. Mount the servo in the outermost rib bay against
the
outside of the fuselage, you can just drill through fuselage and bolt one
side
of the servo in place. Then make up a doubler plate from .032 and some
spacers
and bolt the other side to the next seat rib. Installed this way it makes it
a
10 minute job to re and re the servo. I know because I decided to add the
resistor after the servo was installed. Also Navaid approved bending the
tabs
prior to my doing so. Hope this saves you some work.
Garry "Casper"
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List
> Have heard that installing the Navaid servo on the bottom of the right
stick
> can produce some unwanted elevator imputs. Is this really a problem and
how
> can it be avoided without going to wingtip mounting?
>
> I have Van's aileron trim system and was wondering if I should install
this
> in addition to the Navaid?
> Thank you for any help you can provide.
> Bill Griffin
> RV 6 tipup
> getting close!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Lyle may have machined his, but it looks a lot like the trim wheels on the
C182RG I've been flying lately. You might try a salvage yard or one of the
junk dealers at OSH or SnF. Then you could get the drum, cable and pulleys
that go with.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
>
> >Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share
> for Lyle Hefel's
> >Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
> >
> >
> >Ken
>
> Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like
> that much
> better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the
> manual trim.
>
> Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gene(at)nvaircraft.com |
I am selling my "9" kit . See my ad at www.barnstormers.com
Gene 90296
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid installation RV6 |
Sorry, but I don't have any pictures. I will try and take some this weekend. I
told Navaid about this last year and mentioned that they might want to mention
it
to RV6rs that order their units.
Garry "Casper"
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
>
> Gary,
> Do you have any pictures of this?
>
> jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A nose gear |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I got mine at Walmarts. piece of junk but it did the job.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> HI all,
> Can't seem to find, borrow, or steal a fish scale to set
> the
> breakout force of the nose wheel.
> Any other handy ways to do this ?
> Austin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
>IN DOING SOME HOMEWORK ON THE DIESEL ENGINES BECOMING
> AVAILABLE TO THE EXPERIMENTAL AND G.A. MARKET, I'M FINDING THAT THESE MAY
> NOT BE AN OPTION FOR RV BUILDERS AND OWNERS.
Hey Bob,
I thought the TAE-125 was supposed to be a direct replacement for the
Lycoming O-320. Why would this engine be a bad choice for an RV-9A? Isn't it
currently flying in a Piper Warrior that was previously equipped with a
Lycoming O-320?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: General question about the RV-9A |
Steve,
Almost all of the RV9 is pre-punched. You still have to match drill the
pre-punched holes after you cleco it together.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
The Thielert Diesel is too big and heavy for an RV. It does fit in a 172 or
a cherokee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | A good paint book |
Finally, a good Painting Book that includes modern materials, tools, and
techniques. I've been looking for something like this for a long time.
Although we'll keep the old Jeppesen book for those who need the formal FAA
approved text, this is the one that will really show you how make your RV look
like you've always wanted it to look.
The good news is it covers the modern 2 part urethane systems such as Imron,
Chromasystem and modern epoxy primers. It covers HVLP systems, how to use them,
how to set up your work, how to spray properly, how to fix mistakes, custom
work, paint protection methods, and lots more.
The bad news is it is written for car people.
The good news is it is written for Corvettes. The other good news is its pretty
cheap considering its high quality. ($17.95)
The title is Automotive Paint Handbook, and its in the Paint & Finish section of
Builder's Bookstore. Between this and Sam James' Paint 101 video, there are no
more excuses for anyone handing $4-5,000 to some "professional painter."
And a few other items added in the past couple weeks:
Precision Measuring Tools (airframe specialty section)
Casting Metal & Rubber Parts (airframe specialty section)
Formation Flying videos & course (sport flying skills)
Advanced Aerobatics (sport flying skills)
Private Pilots Manual (general flying skills)
Instrument Pilot's Manual (general flying skills)
The Nation's Weather (general flying skills)
FAR/AIM - 2002 (general flying skills)
Air To Air photo books (just for fun)
Aeroelectric Connection (revision 10 coming in a just a few more days)
Andy
Aircraft Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | David Clark H10-30 Headset for Sale |
For sale, good quality David Clark headset-Model H10-30.
Very clean and good working condition, $150.00
Please send an e-mail if interested.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General question about the RV-9A |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Paulbaird(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: General question about the RV-9A
>
> Steve,
> Almost all of the RV9 is pre-punched. You still have to match drill
the
> pre-punched holes after you cleco it together.
> Paul
>
And prep and prime and dimple and assemble and rivet and fit those extra
goodies that will make your RV stand as an individual in the crowd.
Jim in Kelowna - final assembly of slider
===================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
There is an interesting article in the current (November) issue of AOPA
Pilot about the Thielert and SMA diesels, with a table comparing them with
the Lycoming 0-320. This table shows the weight of the Thielert TAE 125 at
323 lb vs. 365 for the 0-320, but the diesel is liquid cooled, so I have no
idea how the firewall forward weights would compare. The article also says
that although rated at 125 hp vs. 160 for the 0-320, the TAE 125 puts out
540 lbs thrust to match the 0-360, or 77 lbs more than the 0-320.
I would love to hear someone who knows how this stuff is measured comment on
the validity and significance of those numbers.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
>
> The Thielert Diesel is too big and heavy for an RV. It does fit in a 172
or
> a cherokee.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Geez Greg, here I was biting my tongue trying not to tell all the other
listers what you have *really* been flying around in... ;-)
I talked to Lyle briefly about his trim wheel (several months ago). He
indicated that he would like to find a source for trim wheels. I pointed
out a trim wheel assembly in the Aircraft Spruce catalog for, I believe, a
Rans or something like that. I don't know if it would work, but it looked
like a pretty nice setup. Anybody tried that unit?
Kelly
-8QB in hibernation due to new job
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle
Quadrant
>
> Lyle may have machined his, but it looks a lot like the trim wheels on the
> C182RG I've been flying lately. You might try a salvage yard or one of the
> junk dealers at OSH or SnF. Then you could get the drum, cable and pulleys
> that go with.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
> RV-6 N6GY RIP
> searching for Navion...
>
>
> >
> >
> > >Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share
> > for Lyle Hefel's
> > >Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
> > >
> > >
> > >Ken
> >
> > Does anyone know where Lyle got the pitch trim wheel? I like
> > that much
> > better than the vernier cable that is normally used for the
> > manual trim.
> >
> > Dave Berryhill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Smart Coupler For Sale |
Have a brand new Smart Coupler II for sale at the old price of $200.
Currently selling for $250. Navaid sent me the AutoPilot with the
SmartCoupler built in, so I don't need the separate unit. It will buy
Joe and me lots of beer while we discuss the world's problems.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Opening canopy... |
What, if anything, are -8 buildings doing about some kind of a handle on the
back of the canopy to aid in opening it from a fully closed position from
the outside... A builder here put a small handle at the very rear of the
canopy... Is this necessary? If so, what are other people doing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
I was told by Superior that the final installed weight is higher because of
the radiator, coolant and coolant tank. I believe it was over 400lbs. but
don't quote me.
The higher thrust comes from the higher torque of a diesel engine.
Torque is of course a measure of twisting power, which is exactly what we
need to twist a prop around and around. Therefore the diesel can develop
more thrust even though it has a lower horse power rating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Opening canopy... |
What, if anything, are -8 buildings doing about some kind of a handle on the
back of the canopy to aid in opening it from a fully closed position from
the outside... A builder here put a small handle at the very rear of the
canopy... Is this necessary? If so, what are other people doing?
I've seen one handle on the rear of an RV-8 skirt, but don't think there's
any need for it. The canopy is easy to pull open using the normal latch
handle.
Russell Duffy
RV-8, 80587, N174KT, flying 80 hours
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
>
>I was told by Superior that the final installed weight is higher because of
>the radiator, coolant and coolant tank. I believe it was over 400lbs. but
>don't quote me.
> The higher thrust comes from the higher torque of a diesel engine.
>Torque is of course a measure of twisting power, which is exactly what we
>need to twist a prop around and around. Therefore the diesel can develop
>more thrust even though it has a lower horse power rating.
>
I suspect they specifically picked a prop to give high static thrust
to make the comparison look good. Unfortunately, it is horsepower
times prop efficiency that determines what the in-flight performance
will be, so the lower horsepower of this diesel should translate to
lower performance.
If torque was all that mattered, we could simply run our engines to a
reduction gear box to get higher torque and lower rpm at the prop.
This would allow us to run a larger diameter prop at low rpm, which
is good for static thrust, and low speed performance. However we
would have prop ground clearance problems, and the prop efficiency at
higher speeds would suffer because the diameter was too large.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opening canopy... |
I agree...have not seen any need. My canopy opens fine with just the
outside handle.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Opening canopy...
>
> What, if anything, are -8 buildings doing about some kind of a handle on
the
> back of the canopy to aid in opening it from a fully closed position from
> the outside... A builder here put a small handle at the very rear of the
> canopy... Is this necessary? If so, what are other people doing?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
In a message dated 11/2/01 8:32:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terrywatson3(at)home.com writes:
<< There is an interesting article in the current (November) issue of AOPA
Pilot about the Thielert and SMA diesels, with a table comparing them with
the Lycoming 0-320. This table shows the weight of the Thielert TAE 125 at
323 lb vs. 365 for the 0-320, but the diesel is liquid cooled, so I have no
idea how the firewall forward weights would compare. The article also says
that although rated at 125 hp vs. 160 for the 0-320, the TAE 125 puts out
540 lbs thrust to match the 0-360, or 77 lbs more than the 0-320. >>
I'm not sure where the information in the referenced article came from, or
exactly what was included, but Lycoming lists weights in the 250-275 lb range
for 0-320's.
For what it is worth, prop thrust readings should include the relevant
airspeed. Gear down the engine and turn a big prop, and you can generate
huge amounts of thrust - that's what helicopters do. However, a prop/engine
combo that generates huge thrust at slow speeds may not work at all in the
upper end of the RV speed range.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Builders,
I am getting my RV-4 fuselage bulkheads situated in the jig. I have trimmed
about 5/16" off F407 so it is the correct distance from the longerons per
the side view drawing. With this positioning of F407 the rear spar
carrythrough is in the correct position and the baggage floor ribs are at
about the correct angle with respect to F408. Things were all screwed up
until I trimmed F407.
Now, I have long pieces of 1x1 angle clamped on the bulkheads along the
belly to establish a straight line from F407 to F412. This is good without
modification.
The problem is along the top of the bulkheads (underside of jig). The F408
sticks up about 3/4" above a straight line between F407 and F412.
Here are my questions:
1. Can I assume the F407 top section (the bow part) is the correct height as
shipped from Van's?
2. How do I make F408 fit? If I move it forward in the tail cone, I will
have to make new flanges for the baggage floor ribs and I will have to
spread the bulkhead halves to make it wider. I could make a horizontal cut
just above the longerons and splice it back together with doublers. Have any
of you had to do this with F408?
Mark McGee
RV-4 Fuselage clamped together. Running out of clamps.
Loganville, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jsu24osu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Forward Top Fusalage(F-671) on a RV6 |
Charles.
Consider this. Don't do the whole panel with nut plates but cut an access
hole on each side of F-671. Make it rectangular with rounded corners and big
enough to get your hand in there. Make a 40-50ish doubler flushed riveted
around these holes (one on each side) with your nutplates riveted to the
doubler. Neat, strong, and way cool.
Sure beats standing on your head trying to get to the fire wall.
JoeU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 wings delay |
Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
Jonathan Weiswasser
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Watson <terrywatson3(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thielert Diesel
>
>There is an interesting article in the current (November) issue of AOPA
>Pilot about the Thielert and SMA diesels, with a table comparing them with
>the Lycoming 0-320. This table shows the weight of the Thielert TAE 125 at
Terry: I concur with Kyle and Kevin regarding the Thielert and SMA engines.
I believe the popular aviation press does us no favors when they publish
data such as the Pilot article did. I questioned Thielert's numbers some
time back and got some testy replies from other listers, but the kinds of
statements they make are really deceptive. The main problem with published
engine weights is that no list of included items is provided. Lycoming says
their weights include those elements needed to make the engine run, i.e.
mags, starter, carb or fuel injection etc. Have they republished weights
since they went to lighter weight starters? I don't know, but even if they
have we still don't know what our installed weights are going to be. I have
seen more than one weight quoted for Theilert but it is not clear whether or
not one of them is a so-called "firewall forward" weight. The article cited
quotes a Lyc weight that is more in line with an angle valve 360 than a
parallel valve 320. The same for SMA. It is more than frustrating.
With regard to the torque/RPM/HP/ static thrust part, while it would be
incorrect to assert that static thrust means nothing, that is closer to true
than one might think. Without knowledge of the propeller used, the claim
on static thrust is not a number we can make any use of. I know of one auto
engine powered aircraft that has a ground adjustable, 4 blade, 8' diameter
prop which produces enormous static thrust, enough to pull out small trees,
but when so adjusted the aircraft will barely fly. When set so that
moderate flying speeds can be achieved it takes an ungodly amount of runway
to take off. The prop and engine are horribly mismatched but it is great to
look at because the scale appearance is terrific. When Thielert (and
others) claim static thrust values as a reason to consider their product I
have to think that either they don't know any better or they do know better
and are trying to obscure the fact that their engine power is lower than the
engine they are comparing to. While the crucial potential performance
number for an engine is horsepower, without a suitably matched prop suitably
matched to an airframe which has been designed for a mission we want to
perform, we still don't have much to go on. The prop for a 160hp RV-4 will
be altogether different than the one for a Super Cub using the same engine.
To further confuse the picture, the altitude performance of Thielert vs.
Lycoming is an issue. Since the Lyc is normally aspirated and the Thielert
has some form of supercharging, there may be an altitude above which, the
Thielert will outperform the Lyc. Well and good, but it must, I believe,
carry more weight and we should not lose sight of the fact that at the lower
altitudes where we usually fly, Thielert will be inferior. I will be very
pleased when head to head comparisons are available, and good absolute
performance data are available for a Thielert equipped aircraft.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Any interest in Paint Scheme Renderings? |
In a message dated 11/2/2001 2:46:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com writes:
<< posting this to see if there is any interest in a service for RVers who
are interested in having their paint scheme created on a computerized 3-view
rendering prior to visiting the paint shop?
>>
How much do you charge?
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
The computer box goes on the firewall so no extra volume needed behind the
panel. Be sure to wire in a warning light -- you can use any light as there
is nothing special about the LASAR light. Also hard-wire in the data line
to the cockpit so that you can trouble shoot with your laptop on the ground
or in flight. The LASAR output is just ASCII plain text. Also be advised
that if have the over-temp sensor, it is an RTD and not a thermocouple, so
it will appear open when you ohm it out.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Lasar Ignition
>
> In doing some planning of real estate behind the panel, what comes with
> a Lasar ignition? How much room do I need to keep clear to mount what?
>
> Thanks
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I goofed.
On the three inboard rivets which attach the W721 Flap brace to the rear Wing
spar you are supposed to use CR3212-4-6 pop rivets. I did this but didn't
dimple or countersink the flap brace. I assume they have to come out. Two
questions:
1) Any advice for drilling out these CR 3212 -4 -6 rivets?
2) Anybody got three CR 3212 -4-6 rivets laying around collecting dust or do
I have to order three more from Vans?
John McDonnell (being stupid - again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
I'm definitely planning on having my engine controls on the left side as
opposed to in the center (for my RV-7), just like N515L (Laird Owens' 6).
But I'd love to go with a throttle quadrant like this instead of having
verniers. Am I nuts? Would it be too crowded to side-mount a quadrant in
an RV-7?
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
>
> I think you may be able to get something similar from DJM.
>
> The advertise on www.vansaircraft.net
>
> I have an early version of a "Piper-like" quadrant from them. Don't know
if
> he has announced anything on general availability yet.
>
>
> James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
>
> I was told by Superior that the final installed weight is higher because of
> the radiator, coolant and coolant tank. I believe it was over 400lbs. but
> don't quote me.
> The higher thrust comes from the higher torque of a diesel engine.
> Torque is of course a measure of twisting power, which is exactly what we
> need to twist a prop around and around. Therefore the diesel can develop
> more thrust even though it has a lower horse power rating.
HP is torque multiplied by engine rotational speed (in proper
units, of course). So, if the diesel is generating more torque at the
same speed as the other engine, it will be outputting more HP. But we
know the max engine HP of the diesel is lower. So the diesel thrust
measurement must be at a speed which is favorable to the diesel (where the
diesel has higher HP than the gasoline engine). This speed, however, may
not be as compatible with airplane speeds and weights, and standard
propeller geometries. For example, if the diesel only generates more
thrust below 10 RPM, then that's not very useful to airplane builders.
What is needed is not a single point comparison, but a comparison of the
entire HP vs. RPM curve for each engine. I haven't seen any such
comparison made in the literature. If someone else has, please email me a
reference.
Brian Armstrong
Boulder, CO
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto maintenance |
>NO need to overhaul mag unless it is over 500 hours. Then both Slick and
Bendix
> recommend some maintenance.
What maintenance is recommended? Is there a source for maintenance/overhaul
information we can access?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 wings delay |
I ordered my Q.B. in late August. My estimated delivery date is March 1,
2002 (20 weeks) I think it's a combination of ordering just after Oshkosh
and the fact the kit is extremely popular and in high demand. You did not
say but I assume you are waiting for the Q.B. as well. If not, your wait
does seem a bit much.
I plan to spend my time waiting by building work benches and cabinets and
moving tools to the hanger in anticipation of the big day.
Steve Struyk
St. Louis, MO
Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Weiswasser" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv-8 wings delay
>
> Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
> week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
> ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
> the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
> 16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
>
> Jonathan Weiswasser
> Elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
In a message dated 11/3/01 11:31:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
<< I'm definitely planning on having my engine controls on the left side as
opposed to in the center (for my RV-7), just like N515L (Laird Owens' 6).
But I'd love to go with a throttle quadrant like this instead of having
verniers. Am I nuts? Would it be too crowded to side-mount a quadrant in
an RV-7?
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com >>
Dan,
I've got a side mounted quadrant (two lever style) in my RV-6. It works well
for me. Check the archives and you'll find several comments.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Special bucking bar (Binford 9000)for attaching wing leading |
edges
Hi guys,
As I promised last week, I've uploaded a text file and photos of a
special bucking bar I've made. This bar solves a very difficult riveting
situation on the wings of RV-7/A, RV-8/A and RV-9As. Check it out at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Useful%20Tools/Binford%209000%20bucking%20bar/
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 ease of landing |
Listers:
At the risk of igniting another tailwheel vs trigear flame war, I need
to ask the following question on behalf of a potential RV8 rivet
smasher. Please be gentle!
His question is in regards to how easy the RV8 is to land. Those of you
flying the 8, how would you compare its landing properties to other
taildraggers you have flown? He is not currently tailwheel endorsed.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff Orear
RV6A ( I know....training wheel...yadda, yadda,yadda....)
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 ease of landing |
-----Original Message-----
His question is in regards to how easy the RV8 is to land. Those of you
flying the 8, how would you compare its landing properties to other
taildraggers you have flown? He is not currently tailwheel endorsed.
Jeff,
The -8 is cake. I got my tailwheel endorsement in a Super Cub, and flew
about 60 hours in a Kolb Slingshot. I consider the -8 to be easier than
either of those to land. I'm not saying it will always be pretty, but it's
very well behaved, and there's so much control authority that you can hardly
get yourself in too much of a bind. If you do, there's so much power that
you're airborne for another attempt in no time. I'm still pretty cautious
with my -8, but it's given me no reason to be. It's really nothing to be
afraid of.
Rusty
Navarre, FL
N174KT, flying 82 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "netbrick" <netbrick(at)gateway.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Block F-680 |
I have found one opinion in the archives concerning the orientation of
F-680 for the electric flaps. I am convinced that the hole for the flap
tube goes closer to the front although I am not sure if it should be
closer to or further from the floor. The plans are very unclear but
seem to favor "further from the floor". The uncertainty lies in that it
would seem that one would want more of the meat of the block on top
since that is where the most stress will be. Maybe it has been done
both ways??? Van's says that orientation can be determined by looking
at the drawings for the manual flaps but I am still having trouble. Any
comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David Kirby
RV-6QB
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ease of landing |
Thanks Rusty...I'll pass your info on to my friend.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV8 ease of landing
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> His question is in regards to how easy the RV8 is to land. Those of you
> flying the 8, how would you compare its landing properties to other
> taildraggers you have flown? He is not currently tailwheel endorsed.
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> The -8 is cake. I got my tailwheel endorsement in a Super Cub, and flew
> about 60 hours in a Kolb Slingshot. I consider the -8 to be easier than
> either of those to land. I'm not saying it will always be pretty, but it's
> very well behaved, and there's so much control authority that you can
hardly
> get yourself in too much of a bind. If you do, there's so much power that
> you're airborne for another attempt in no time. I'm still pretty cautious
> with my -8, but it's given me no reason to be. It's really nothing to be
> afraid of.
>
> Rusty
> Navarre, FL
> N174KT, flying 82 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
Brian,
The Thielert has a reduction gear box. If hp is torque times rpm then
wouldn't there be a linear relationship between the two? I have never seen
an engine with a linear relationship between torque and hp. Diesel engines
almost always put out more torque than a gas engine of comparable hp.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ease of landing |
>
>His question is in regards to how easy the RV8 is to land. Those of you
>flying the 8, how would you compare its landing properties to other
>taildraggers you have flown? He is not currently tailwheel endorsed.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A ( I know....training wheel...yadda, yadda,yadda....)
I won't hold it against ya. ;)
The -8 is a sweet airplane with excellent landing manners. I spent time in
a Citabria and CAP 10B before I flew my -8 and find it to be no more
difficult to handle than the others. If you put it on straight, it will
make you look good. Touchdown in a crab and you'll be fighting it down the
runway. Pretty typical taildragger manners. The gear is pretty springy,
which absorbs all but the worst carrier type touchdowns.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
266 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Filtered Air Box... |
I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if there
should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdnewsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Block F-680 |
David,
Per the QB manual the F-680 is installed with its long side to the rear.
The thicker portion (1 inch thick) should go on the bottom. One thing to
watch out for is, you need to have WD-613B Flap Control spaced high enough
off the baggage floor so the bottom bolt in the F-661 bearing block on each
end WD-613B Flap Control is high enough to easily clear the F-642 seat
floor.
(I managed to get mine low enough that the nut on the AN3-22A bottom bolt
can only be installed if a flat is parallel to the F-642 floor. I can't turn
the nut, and have to turn the bolt to tighten).
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of netbrick
Subject: RV-List: Flap Block F-680
I have found one opinion in the archives concerning the orientation of
F-680 for the electric flaps. I am convinced that the hole for the flap
tube goes closer to the front although I am not sure if it should be
closer to or further from the floor. The plans are very unclear but
seem to favor "further from the floor". The uncertainty lies in that it
would seem that one would want more of the meat of the block on top
since that is where the most stress will be. Maybe it has been done
both ways??? Van's says that orientation can be determined by looking
at the drawings for the manual flaps but I am still having trouble. Any
comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David Kirby
RV-6QB
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Filtered Air Box... |
>
>I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
>heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if there
>should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill VonDane
\
Bill,
My carb heat door doesn't fit exactly. There is a gap of maybe 1/8" around.
As long as it blocks off the large majority of the snorkel air, and freely
opens the hole to the hot underside of the engine, it should do fine. I've
never had to use it for it's designed purpose, but you never can tell. It
seems the odds of a bird lodging it's bloody carcass in the snorkel are
greater than carb ice in that hot oil sump mounted carburetor! Laird
"Decoy" Owens would probably agree.
Hmm...I wonder, just how many folks on this list have had carb ice on a
Lycoming in their RV? I've been in some rain, light snow and various
combinations of air temps and dew points, and not a trace of ice that I
could determine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
266 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 For Sale |
No, not my beloved N1GV (that one they'll have to pry from my cold dead
corpse).
Please contact the owner Don Farrand directly. Owner has decided, due to
age, that he should give up flying.
RV-6 Slider
250 hrs on new O-360-A1A w/Hartzell c/s
Terra Comm and Xpndr
GPS Panel mt
925-964-9641
dotndon(at)worldnet.att.net
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box... |
There should be a little gap (1/16") or so to allow the door to move freely.
I think some seal it with a bead of proseal. I get plenty of hot air in
there, and I don't have it sealed.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Filtered Air Box...
I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if there
should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Filtered Air Box... |
-
I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if there
should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
Hi Bill
First I tried to make the carb heat door fit tight, then decided it might
bind and jam if I got too tight a fit. On the other solution, if the door
has a gap all around it then there is the chance the door will go past the
fully closed position if cable housing slips or is not adjusted just right.
My final solution was to leave a small gap all around and rivet in a .063
aluminum door stop at the fully closed (hot) position. The stop is about 3/8
wide and extends part way up sides.
I realize this "bump in the floor" will reduce efficiency slightly when carb
heat is off however I am a fanatic about having a good reliable carb heat
setup.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
Paul,
If HP is torque times RPM (and it is), then you would not see a
linear relationship between HP and torque. A linear relationship would be
of the type HP = (constant) * (torque), where (constant) is the slope of
the curve. In this case, we have HP = (RPM) * (torque). RPM is not
constant across all RPM's (obviously), so the relationship is not linear.
And while I agree that diesel engines tend to be of higher torque
for SIMILAR HP, higher torque does not compensate for low HP. To have
higher torque at the same HP, you must be turning slower. You can
look at this from an energy point of view. Power is energy or work per
unit time. To lift a 2000lb airplane by 500 ft. requires a certain amount
of work. The engine that can lift that airplane by 500 ft. in the
shortest time is the one that outputs the greatest power. If your goal is
to get a heavy load up the stairs in the shortest time, you wouldn't
necessarily pick the strongest man you could find. He might not be the
most powerful. The one you would select would be the one who has the
greatest combination of strength and speed (Lance Armstrong springs to mind). Similarly, in an airplane, if you wanted to
climb or cruise fast, you wouldn't necessarily pick the torquiest (is that
a word?) engine, but rather the most powerful one. This, of course,
assumes equal prop and installation efficiency at the two speeds, which
isn't a good assumption, but the simplification helps illustrate the
point.
Hope I said that clearly (and more importantly CORRECTLY)...
Brian Armstrong
Boulder, CO
--
On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 Paulbaird(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Brian,
> The Thielert has a reduction gear box. If hp is torque times rpm then
> wouldn't there be a linear relationship between the two? I have never seen
> an engine with a linear relationship between torque and hp. Diesel engines
> almost always put out more torque than a gas engine of comparable hp.
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimmer questions |
Can't help you with the first one. As for the second:
> 2) How close together can the dimmers be mounted (Bob's or Vans)?
I don't know about Van's, but Bob's uses a very small pot so it would be as
close as you want -- probably as little as 3/4" center to center although I
think you'd want them further apart for ergonomic reasons.
> 3) It is my understanding that these dimmers can be used to dim the
> backlighting on units such as the Microair comm and transponder, the
> Grand Rapids EIS, etc. Is the backlighting on these units the same EL
> stuff that is commercially available and powered by an inverter?
[snip]
I can't really help with specifics on EL lighting, but perhaps my experience
with wiring up a single Aeroelectric dimmer to work with both LEDs and
incandescents will be helpful. Take a look at my instrument panel lighting
setup at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html. The bottom
line is that it may take some experimentation but you can probably do
something similar to what I did with getting a dimmer to work with devices
that have different dimming curves.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box... |
> There should be a little gap (1/16") or so to allow the door to move
freely.
> I think some seal it with a bead of proseal. I get plenty of hot air in
> there, and I don't have it sealed.
Hmmm... I made it fit as close as I could. No binding or anything in 300+
hours. I did fit it so that it couldn't over-center or anything -- that is,
it doesn't go quite to 90 degrees to the top of the FAB when closed.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box... |
Hi Bill,
No Gap would be the preferred choice.
Jim in Kelowna - Slider finished.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Filtered Air Box...
>
> I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
> heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if
there
> should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Filtered Air Box... |
> Hmm...I wonder, just how many folks on this list have had carb ice on a
> Lycoming in their RV?
I'm pretty sure I've had carb ice at least once. On the ground, during taxi,
engine got a little rough -- pulled the carb heat and it got rougher, then
smoothed out. Just like they say in the book. Never anything noticeable in
the air, but I have no doubt that it happens!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Jonathan-
I just got my QB fuse this week- two MONTHS earlier than Van's promised. I
got my wings a full month early. They project delivery dates kinda
conservatively. My own experience has been that they come through better than
on time.
By the way, Their timing was bad in one respect- This was the weekend when
nobody was available to help, but I figured out a way to wrestle that HUGE QB
fuse crate from the Freight dock into the U-Haul and then into the garage
without breaking a sweat- all by myself!
Ed Winne
RV-9A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Grrrrrrr...RV-6 front and rear wing spar alignment |
Dang it. In spite of my best (or worst) efforts, the rear spar of my left wing
is not aligned with the
front spar as they hang in the jig. Don't ask me how it happened....I used the
prepunched wing skins
to line up all the ribs as I was assembling the wing skeleton on the work bench...and
once the wing was
in the jig I measured the X and Y distances half a dozen times...but I measured
from the tips, rather
than the root ends of the spars, so mebbe that's what happened.
Anyway, when I drop the plumb lines, the rear spar appears to be about 1/16 to
1/8 inch farther
"inboard" (i.e., closer to the fuselage) than it should. I've already drilled
the skins to the ribs
and spars. Is this going to be a problem down the road for me?
And to prevent this from happening again - would I be better off to wait to drill
the ribs to the rear
spar until I hang the skeleton in the jig, and can align everything at that time?
Seems as tho I read
that suggestion somewhere...
John
RV-6 (grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Vokac" <glennrv8(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: rv-8 wings delay |
Jonathan:
I ordered my -8 wings this past June and received them in about 7 weeks. The
16 week time frame Van's gave you has got to be an error. Give them a call.
Glenn Vokac
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Weiswasser" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV8-List: rv-8 wings delay
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Jonathan Weiswasser
>
> Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
> week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
> ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
> the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
> 16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
>
> Jonathan Weiswasser
> Elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thielert Diesel
>
>Brian,
>The Thielert has a reduction gear box. If hp is torque times rpm then
>wouldn't there be a linear relationship between the two? I have never seen
>an engine with a linear relationship between torque and hp. Diesel engines
>almost always put out more torque than a gas engine of comparable hp.
Paul: To amplify a bit, the mathematical relationship is torque(pounds
feet) times RPM divided by 5252. What does change is an engine's ability to
produce torque. The torque rating of an engine is usually its maximum and
that only occurs at one point in the RPM range. At all other speeds the
torque produced is lower. This is the nonlinearity. The reasons for this
are many, but they involve the characteristics of the engine's induction
system, fuel delivery system and exhaust system and these all affect and are
affected by the ability of a gas to flow in a given environment. Valve
timing, ignition timing, charge density and flow losses in the piping are
involved. The way these and other factors change is responsible for the
shape of the curves you have seen. The speed reducer serves to place the
engine output in a speed range that is useful for our propellers. The speed
reducer also brings with it some mechanical losses with the consequence that
the power output is slightly less than it would be were the reducer not
there. The core engine's torque doesn't change but the reducer increases
the torque seen by the prop by the factor of the reducer's ratio minus the
mechanical losses.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grrrrrrr...RV-6 front and rear wing spar alignment |
John,
As long as there isn't a twist built in you will be fine with the small
amount of off-set you mentioned. F.W.I.W. - I built my skeleton on the
workbench but did not drill the skins to it until I had it hanging in the
jig and my plumb bobs hanging. That way, as I drilled the skins to the
ribs, I could continually check the plumb bobs to make sure nothing had
moved. Its really the skins that hold it all in alignment.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grrrrrrr...RV-6 front and rear wing spar alignment
>
> Dang it. In spite of my best (or worst) efforts, the rear spar of my left
wing is not aligned with the
> front spar as they hang in the jig. Don't ask me how it happened....I
used the prepunched wing skins
> to line up all the ribs as I was assembling the wing skeleton on the work
bench...and once the wing was
> in the jig I measured the X and Y distances half a dozen times...but I
measured from the tips, rather
> than the root ends of the spars, so mebbe that's what happened.
>
> Anyway, when I drop the plumb lines, the rear spar appears to be about
1/16 to 1/8 inch farther
> "inboard" (i.e., closer to the fuselage) than it should. I've already
drilled the skins to the ribs
> and spars. Is this going to be a problem down the road for me?
>
> And to prevent this from happening again - would I be better off to wait
to drill the ribs to the rear
> spar until I hang the skeleton in the jig, and can align everything at
that time? Seems as tho I read
> that suggestion somewhere...
>
> John
> RV-6 (grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Filtered Air Box... |
I have an IceMan optical carb ice detector installed in my 6A. It
occasionally, at all power settings, indicates carb ice. Pulling carb heat
negates the indications. I have left carb heat off for several minutes and
have observed what I think is a minimum-decrement change in MP on the
V-1000. Or the ADC may have been at an "edge" and ready to toggle to the
next lower bit. The icing seems to be present occasionally but the build up
seems to be quite slow.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] Filtered Air Box...
>
> > Hmm...I wonder, just how many folks on this list have had carb ice on a
> > Lycoming in their RV?
>
> I'm pretty sure I've had carb ice at least once. On the ground, during
taxi,
> engine got a little rough -- pulled the carb heat and it got rougher, then
> smoothed out. Just like they say in the book. Never anything noticeable in
> the air, but I have no doubt that it happens!
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Thielert Diesel |
whoops. found an error in what i wrote:
i said:
> RPM is not constant across all RPM's (obviously), so the relationship is
> not linear.
what i SHOULD have said:
RPM is not constant across all torques (not so obviously), so the
relationship is not linear.
probably doesn't matter much, but i feel ALOT better having come clean!!!
brian armstrong
boulder, co
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | removing the primer |
I think I'm going to remove the solonoid type primer system on my carbureted
0-360 on my 6A. I never use it, not even on cold days, and all it really is, is
a bunch of excess fuel lines and fittings that can break or leak. (a potential
fire hazard) I'm thinking that anything that can be done to simplify the fuel
system is a good thing.
Questions to the group:
1] Has anybody who chose never to install a primer ever wish you had?
2] Has anybody who has ever removed a primer system ever wish they didn't?
3] Has anybody (in any airplane) ever experienced in-flight engine problems with
which use of a primer as an alternate fuel source was able to keep the fan
turning?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | removing the primer |
-----Original Message-----
1] Has anybody who chose never to install a primer ever wish you had?
2] Has anybody who has ever removed a primer system ever wish they didn't?
3] Has anybody (in any airplane) ever experienced in-flight engine problems
with
which use of a primer as an alternate fuel source was able to keep the fan
turning?
----------
It seems like you may have already answered your own question. If you
really never use it, and you're happy with the way the engine starts, then
it doesn't sound like you really need it. From your e-mail address, I have
to assume you live somewhere cold. Do you preheat the engine on cold days?
Will it crank without pre-heat, such as when you go somewhere and don't have
the option to pre-heat?
I chose not to install a primer on my O-320 engine, mostly because I kept
hearing all the stories of people who said they didn't need it. In the
Summer the engine always started, though not willingly. In the winter
(relative to the Florida panhandle) it was even less willing. One day in
particular, when it was probably in the 40's, I had to use a heat gun to
warm up the intake to make it crank. Following that incident, I installed
the primer and cranked happily ever after :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)
RV-3, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Facet pump fuel filter |
In the Randy Flanzer condition inspection checklist (the one I'm using
now), there is a line:
Remove filter screen from FACET pump, clean, and re-install
Where is this screen located in the pump?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours first year
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
I cut and spliced 407, 408, and 409 bulkheads in three places...at the
shoulders next to the longerons and in the top middle. I think part of the
problem was their width above the longeron; the skin would lay flush. The
other problem was lining them vertically. I probably set the height of 407
per plans and adjusted the height of the others to line up.
John Brick
Tacoma
RV474JB
Electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark McGee
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Fuselage
Builders,
I am getting my RV-4 fuselage bulkheads situated in the jig. I have trimmed
about 5/16" off F407 so it is the correct distance from the longerons per
the side view drawing. With this positioning of F407 the rear spar
carrythrough is in the correct position and the baggage floor ribs are at
about the correct angle with respect to F408. Things were all screwed up
until I trimmed F407.
Now, I have long pieces of 1x1 angle clamped on the bulkheads along the
belly to establish a straight line from F407 to F412. This is good without
modification.
The problem is along the top of the bulkheads (underside of jig). The F408
sticks up about 3/4" above a straight line between F407 and F412.
Here are my questions:
1. Can I assume the F407 top section (the bow part) is the correct height as
shipped from Van's?
2. How do I make F408 fit? If I move it forward in the tail cone, I will
have to make new flanges for the baggage floor ribs and I will have to
spread the bulkhead halves to make it wider. I could make a horizontal cut
just above the longerons and splice it back together with doublers. Have any
of you had to do this with F408?
Mark McGee
RV-4 Fuselage clamped together. Running out of clamps.
Loganville, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ease of landing |
I have to say that in my limited tailwheel time I have flown a J-3, Super
Cub, Husky A1A, Cessna 180, and the RV-6. None of these planes were any
easier than the -8. My first landing was perfect and I now am making
consistently good landings. It is not a tricycle gear plane...but I think
if you have had a good tailwheel check out it is not a problem.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 ease of landing
>
> Listers:
>
> At the risk of igniting another tailwheel vs trigear flame war, I need
> to ask the following question on behalf of a potential RV8 rivet
> smasher. Please be gentle!
>
> His question is in regards to how easy the RV8 is to land. Those of you
> flying the 8, how would you compare its landing properties to other
> taildraggers you have flown? He is not currently tailwheel endorsed.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A ( I know....training wheel...yadda, yadda,yadda....)
> fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Greetings,
After years of wanting to build a rotary engine powered airplane, I'm
finally going to do it. Yesterday, I purchased an RV-3 project that was
never quite finished. The original builder did a great job on it, but
decided he didn't want a single place. As a result, it has been sitting
around in a 90% complete stage for maybe 10 years. I'll be hauling the
project back from GA next Saturday, and can't wait to get started. My plan
is to install a 13B two-rotor engine.
The plane has the original type-1 spars I believe, and Van's says those are
good for Utility Category loads. Since I don't see the need to put more
than about 3 G's on the plane, I will likely leave the wings as is. I
realize there's an option to install the new wings, at a discount price from
Van's, but this sounds like a lot of work and expense, for something that
doesn't seem necessary. Still, I'll consider doing it. Has anyone actually
installed the new wings in a finished fuselage? Van's says you'd have to
replace the "center section", which doesn't sound like a lot of fun. I know
that some of the root rib mods have been done, and the kit for the rest of
the wing mods is coming with the project, so I'll have to look that over to
see what's involved. If you do all the mods to a type-1 spar, does that
give it aerobatic limits?
The plane has wing tanks, and I'll do some testing on them, but I'm afraid
the slosh may not work well with auto fuel. Unfortunately, the builder can't
find any info on exactly which slosh was used. If slosh is going to fail,
will I be able to find that out by filling the tanks for a few weeks, or
will it take longer than that?
I've seen a few RV-3's with big engines, and I don't see how they keep from
exceeding the Vne of 215 mph. Are there mods to increase the Vne on the
RV-3? For example, I never realized the elevators weren't counterbalanced.
Has anyone added counterweights? Does it even matter? If not, why did I
spend all that time balancing my RV-8 elevators :-)
How many other rotary engine builders do we have out there? Drop me an
e-mail and we'll stay in touch.
Cheers,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)
RV-3, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Off to a Slow Start... |
Hi Listers,
First I want to take everyone that has taken a minute already to make a
Contribution to support the Email Lists in 2001! I also really appreciate
all the kind words I've been receiving regarding the Lists and how much
they mean to everyone. The testimonial means a lot to me and makes the
many hours working on the system worth it!! Later in the month, I'll share
a few of the kind words with the Lists.
I've added a nifty new Bar Graph Thermometer to the message trailer that
gives an up-to-the-minute percentage status of how many members have made a
Contribution during 2001! It was a fun piece of code to write and
hopefully will be a fun way to watch the Fund Raiser's Progress this year!
As I've said in the past, the Lists are supported *completely* through your
generous Contributions during the Fund Raiser and throughout the
year. This includes all of the system and connectivity upgrades we seen,
as well as makes the many hours I spend each month keeping the systems
running even more enjoyable ;-).
Won't you take a moment and make a Contribution right now to support your
Lists? Its fast and easy with the On-line, SSL secure Credit Card system,
or by direct US-Mailing a check. For complete information, please see the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your Generous Contribution!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
PS - Don't forget to monitor the Fund Raiser Bar Graph below!
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> I've seen a few RV-3's with big engines, and I don't see how they keep from
> exceeding the Vne of 215 mph. Are there mods to increase the Vne on the
> RV-3? For example, I never realized the elevators weren't counterbalanced.
> Has anyone added counterweights? Does it even matter? If not, why did I
> spend all that time balancing my RV-8 elevators :-)
>
> How many other rotary engine builders do we have out there? Drop me an
> e-mail and we'll stay in touch.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)
> RV-3, Rotary engine project
>
Russell,
Alan Tolle flew with a rotery in his RV-3. You may or may not know that
Alan built several RV's before buying the Questair Venture aircraft
company. If interested this is the phone number of his
new company. 559/447-1112.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
When I rode in Norm Barlett's 6A in NZ, his airplane was very quiet. He
had mounted 747 honeycomb floor panels between the stringers in the
floor area with 6 bolts per panel.
I noticed when I have a soft cooler on the rigtht hand floor of my
airplane it makes a large difference in the noise level when I put it up
on the passenger seat. Also on the recent Las Cruces flight, Gabe could
make a significant difference in the cockpit noise by where he
positioned his feet.
This all leads me to ask, is there anyone out there who knows where I
can get my hands on some surplus honeycomb flooring out of an airplane??
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak Flight Systems |
Does anyone have any experience with these system? http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
At some point in the next 2-3 months (at the rate I'm going!), I presume I'll have
to install the
hardware in my left wing for a wing leveler before closing up the wing...I'm planning
to equip the
plane for IFR flight...any thoughts/experience/suggestions appreciated.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6...left wing...almost ready to work on the leading edge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing the primer |
I used to have a Grumman Cougar light twin that has O320 engines and
solenoid primers. As the airplane aged the solenoid valves would
sometimes leak. This was a big problem because the manufacturer wouldn't
make the valves any more and, certificated AC, there was no replacement.
But I digress.
If the leakage gets bad enough the intake manifold fills up and, since
one cylinder always has an open intake valve, there can be a hydraulic
lock with the fuel just like the hydraulic lock that a radial gets with
lube oil. This is not theory it happened to me. Fortunately I found it
by pulling the prop through. If the engine is started in this condition
it will bend a connecting rod and big problems will follow that.
Not trying to frighten anyone, these valves -were- 15 years old.
Jim Bean
RV-8 panel
Andy wrote:
>
>
> I think I'm going to remove the solonoid type primer system on my carbureted
> 0-360 on my 6A. I never use it, not even on cold days, and all it really is,
is
> a bunch of excess fuel lines and fittings that can break or leak. (a potential
> fire hazard) I'm thinking that anything that can be done to simplify the fuel
> system is a good thing.
>
> Questions to the group:
>
> 1] Has anybody who chose never to install a primer ever wish you had?
>
> 2] Has anybody who has ever removed a primer system ever wish they didn't?
>
> 3] Has anybody (in any airplane) ever experienced in-flight engine problems with
> which use of a primer as an alternate fuel source was able to keep the fan
> turning?
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Duffy <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions
>
> How many other rotary engine builders do we have out there? Drop me an
> e-mail and we'll stay in touch.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)
> RV-3, Rotary engine project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Russell:
You'll want to subscribe to Paul Lamar's list serve
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/ACRE.html and check Tracy Crook's
website: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/
Regards,
Gaylen Lerohl
RV8 cockpit details and rotary engine installation
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Duffy <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions
> How many other rotary engine builders do we have out there? Drop me an
> e-mail and we'll stay in touch.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)
> RV-3, Rotary engine project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
Take a flight to Pinal Airpark, north of Tucson. It's a boneyard for heavy
planes. No guarantees, but I bet some poking and prodding over there might
come up with something. And, you could take a 5 minute hop to Marana from
there (formerly Avra Valley) and have some good cheap grub for lunch.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Salvage airliner floorboards source??
When I rode in Norm Barlett's 6A in NZ, his airplane was very quiet. He
had mounted 747 honeycomb floor panels between the stringers in the
floor area with 6 bolts per panel.
I noticed when I have a soft cooler on the rigtht hand floor of my
airplane it makes a large difference in the noise level when I put it up
on the passenger seat. Also on the recent Las Cruces flight, Gabe could
make a significant difference in the cockpit noise by where he
positioned his feet.
This all leads me to ask, is there anyone out there who knows where I
can get my hands on some surplus honeycomb flooring out of an airplane??
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Just thought I would pass on a builder's report. There have been much
discussion in the past about the hinges on the top of the cowl. The design
is just kind of clunky, in my opinion. Getting a pin through a curved piece
of hinge doesn't make alot of sense. Some builders have had good luck with
them, going in all the way without assistance. I did nothing but burn my
arm every time I tried to take my cowl off. I got so frustrated, that I
just decided one day to go to camlocs. I ripped the hinges off, and ordered
9 camlocs for the top. It was an afternoon job, and it is so much easier to
take the cowl off.
For those of you still building, spend the $90 on the camlocs for the top of
the cowl. It will be well worth it. I bought the floating and adjustable
receptacle type. I don't think you need them on the sides, the hinges on
the sides work fine.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi Listers,
What is the proper torque value for the Barry Mounts ?
The manual gives none but says it is easy to do because you just tighten
until the spacer tubes bottom out and stop you.
But in BIngelis's book, he says this is WRONG,WRONG, since you are not
supposed to squish the s*** out of the rubber mounts since this defeats the
design function....I have looked everywhere but can't find a
number.......what have others done ??
Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
Bernie Kerr wrote:
>
>
> When I rode in Norm Barlett's 6A in NZ, his airplane was very quiet. He
> had mounted 747 honeycomb floor panels between the stringers in the
> floor area with 6 bolts per panel.
>
> I noticed when I have a soft cooler on the rigtht hand floor of my
> airplane it makes a large difference in the noise level when I put it up
> on the passenger seat. Also on the recent Las Cruces flight, Gabe could
> make a significant difference in the cockpit noise by where he
> positioned his feet.
>
> This all leads me to ask, is there anyone out there who knows where I
> can get my hands on some surplus honeycomb flooring out of an airplane??
>
> Bernie Kerr
>
>
The BD-4 guys have made them with closed-cell foam & 2
sheets of al.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Isolator Mounts |
You must bottom out the spacers and tighten the bolts enough that the spacers
won't work against the inside of the mounts. It is quite difficult to get a
torque wrench anywhere near the mount bolts, so just tighten them the best you
can.
What Tony is referring to, when he says not to squish the mounts, is the
conical type mount. They don't use a spacer so if you tighten them too much you
will squish the s--- out of them and stop them from functioning like an
isolator.
Garry "Casper" Took my 76 year old mommy up for a ride yesterday, she loved it.
Austin wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
> What is the proper torque value for the Barry Mounts ?
> The manual gives none but says it is easy to do because you just tighten
> until the spacer tubes bottom out and stop you.
> But in BIngelis's book, he says this is WRONG,WRONG, since you are not
> supposed to squish the s*** out of the rubber mounts since this defeats the
> design function....I have looked everywhere but can't find a
> number.......what have others done ??
> Austin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on Cowl |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Just thought I would pass on a builder's report. There have been much
> discussion in the past about the hinges on the top of the cowl. The design
> is just kind of clunky, in my opinion. Getting a pin through a curved piece
> of hinge doesn't make alot of sense. Some builders have had good luck with
> them, going in all the way without assistance. I did nothing but burn my
> arm every time I tried to take my cowl off. I got so frustrated, that I
> just decided one day to go to camlocs. I ripped the hinges off, and ordered
> 9 camlocs for the top. It was an afternoon job, and it is so much easier to
> take the cowl off.
>
> For those of you still building, spend the $90 on the camlocs for the top of
> the cowl. It will be well worth it. I bought the floating and adjustable
> receptacle type. I don't think you need them on the sides, the hinges on
> the sides work fine.
>
> Paul Besing
>
I would like to hear your opinion after you get some time on them.
I would think that after a while the high pressure these cowlings
are under well take its toll on the camlocks. Anyone else use camlocks
on the top cowl with good luck? Myself I don't find the hinge design
"clunky" I like the smooth look. Just like my spinner does not have
any visible screws showing.
Jerry S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Isolator Mounts |
Garry is correct also go to:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/en
ginehanging.htm
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 75+- hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Isolator Mounts
>
> You must bottom out the spacers and tighten the bolts enough that the
spacers
> won't work against the inside of the mounts. It is quite difficult to get
a
> torque wrench anywhere near the mount bolts, so just tighten them the best
you
> can.
> What Tony is referring to, when he says not to squish the mounts, is the
> conical type mount. They don't use a spacer so if you tighten them too
much you
> will squish the s--- out of them and stop them from functioning like an
> isolator.
> Garry "Casper" Took my 76 year old mommy up for a ride yesterday, she
loved it.
>
> Austin wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> > What is the proper torque value for the Barry Mounts
?
> > The manual gives none but says it is easy to do because you just
tighten
> > until the spacer tubes bottom out and stop you.
> > But in BIngelis's book, he says this is WRONG,WRONG, since you are not
> > supposed to squish the s*** out of the rubber mounts since this defeats
the
> > design function....I have looked everywhere but can't find a
> > number.......what have others done ??
> > Austin
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 11/03/01 |
Carb Ice In Lycomings: 1,000 hrs behind an 0-320 in a spam can has shown
me that there is carb ice in very minor amounts on many cool mornings.
Without a manifold pressure gage you might never notice it. In 24 years with
this engine, I have had serious carb ice once! Was flying well north of a
gulf hurricane but the air was extemely humid, needed heat continuously.
When you really need carb heat, it's too late to install it!
EGT is a good carb ice detector. Minor ice will drop the EGT slightly
long before you notice anything else. It's the same heat you will need to
get rid of it so it is prudent to scan the EGT regularly -----don't get
"behind the curve"
Paul S. Petersen, RV6A 90% done 50% to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on Cowl |
Some installations are not clunky, that's for sure. I just could not get
the hinge pins to slide all the way in...I tried many things to get it to
work, but nothing really worked. I know of an RV on the field that has 500
hours on it with camlocs on the top with no problems. I also used the
larger camlocs that have the large countersunk washer (same function as a
tinnerman washer) that really grabs the cowl. I only have about 15 hours on
them now, we'll see. BTW, how did you have a spinner without screws?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs on Cowl
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Just thought I would pass on a builder's report. There have been much
> discussion in the past about the hinges on the top of the cowl. The
design
> is just kind of clunky, in my opinion. Getting a pin through a curved
piece
> of hinge doesn't make alot of sense. Some builders have had good luck
with
> them, going in all the way without assistance. I did nothing but burn my
> arm every time I tried to take my cowl off. I got so frustrated, that I
> just decided one day to go to camlocs. I ripped the hinges off, and
ordered
> 9 camlocs for the top. It was an afternoon job, and it is so much easier
to
> take the cowl off.
>
> For those of you still building, spend the $90 on the camlocs for the top
of
> the cowl. It will be well worth it. I bought the floating and adjustable
> receptacle type. I don't think you need them on the sides, the hinges on
> the sides work fine.
>
> Paul Besing
>
I would like to hear your opinion after you get some time on them.
I would think that after a while the high pressure these cowlings
are under well take its toll on the camlocks. Anyone else use camlocks
on the top cowl with good luck? Myself I don't find the hinge design
"clunky" I like the smooth look. Just like my spinner does not have
any visible screws showing.
Jerry S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spinner wobble |
dear listers
after running my engine a few times now, i was checking the tracking of the
prop. it is perfect, but i noticed my spinner has a little wobble to it. i
did the best i could when i installed it to have it perfectly centered, but i
guess i was off a little. will this hurt to run this way? i don't know how to
fix it unless i just got another spinner.,. any thoughts?
scott
tampa
painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nauga(at)brick.net> |
After doing the engine baffles I haven't got any
hair left to pull out - anyone got any suggestions on
how to fit a gascolator on an RV-4 firewall? Seems like
the bottom engine mount spreader eats up the best location.
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: spinner wobble |
First, I would check to see if I had the spinner on in the right position.
If reversing the position doesn't help then loosen screws and recenter
spinner, tighten screws. If necessary, slot screw holes, then tighten. You
then will always have to recenter.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: spinner wobble
dear listers
after running my engine a few times now, i was checking the tracking of the
prop. it is perfect, but i noticed my spinner has a little wobble to it. i
did the best i could when i installed it to have it perfectly centered, but
i
guess i was off a little. will this hurt to run this way? i don't know how
to
fix it unless i just got another spinner.,. any thoughts?
scott
tampa
painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "reecerv3" <reecerv3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Russel-
John Harmon and some of the builders from the Bakersfield area added
counterbalanced elevators to the RV-3.
You should be able to look up John's number somehow and give him a call. He
may be able to tell you some details and why they did it. If I remember
right from talking to John it was because of the elevator loosing
effectiveness at high G-loading during aerobatics.
Blue skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 s/n45 still building
>
> I've seen a few RV-3's with big engines, and I don't see how they keep
from
> exceeding the Vne of 215 mph. Are there mods to increase the Vne on the
> RV-3? For example, I never realized the elevators weren't
counterbalanced.
> Has anyone added counterweights? Does it even matter? If not, why did I
> spend all that time balancing my RV-8 elevators :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on Cowl |
Paul,
A picture probably explains it better than I can.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jsflyrv/Spinner2RV6.jpg
The back plate for the spinner is 1/8th aluminum with holes that
line up with the holes you see in the picture. The front
bulkhead you see in the picture can be sized to fit the front
cone of a CS prop or like mine in the picture it fits over a
extension welded to the front crush plate for a fixed pitch prop.
this is all lined up in a jig so there is no spinner wobble.
Jerry S
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Some installations are not clunky, that's for sure. I just could not get
> the hinge pins to slide all the way in...I tried many things to get it to
> work, but nothing really worked. I know of an RV on the field that has 500
> hours on it with camlocs on the top with no problems. I also used the
> larger camlocs that have the large countersunk washer (same function as a
> tinnerman washer) that really grabs the cowl. I only have about 15 hours on
> them now, we'll see. BTW, how did you have a spinner without screws?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs on Cowl
>
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > Just thought I would pass on a builder's report. There have been much
> > discussion in the past about the hinges on the top of the cowl. The
> design
> > is just kind of clunky, in my opinion. Getting a pin through a curved
> piece
> > of hinge doesn't make alot of sense. Some builders have had good luck
> with
> > them, going in all the way without assistance. I did nothing but burn my
> > arm every time I tried to take my cowl off. I got so frustrated, that I
> > just decided one day to go to camlocs. I ripped the hinges off, and
> ordered
> > 9 camlocs for the top. It was an afternoon job, and it is so much easier
> to
> > take the cowl off.
> >
> > For those of you still building, spend the $90 on the camlocs for the top
> of
> > the cowl. It will be well worth it. I bought the floating and adjustable
> > receptacle type. I don't think you need them on the sides, the hinges on
> > the sides work fine.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> >
>
> I would like to hear your opinion after you get some time on them.
> I would think that after a while the high pressure these cowlings
> are under well take its toll on the camlocks. Anyone else use camlocks
> on the top cowl with good luck? Myself I don't find the hinge design
> "clunky" I like the smooth look. Just like my spinner does not have
> any visible screws showing.
>
> Jerry S
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gascolator |
In a message dated 11/4/2001 7:31:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nauga(at)brick.net writes:
>
> After doing the engine baffles I haven't got any
> hair left to pull out - anyone got any suggestions on
> how to fit a gascolator on an RV-4 firewall? Seems like
> the bottom engine mount spreader eats up the best location.
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
One method that works for me....
Try mounting on the lowest point of your engine mount (dead center) fab a
small bracket attached by adell clamps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Russell,
Leaving the wings as they are is fine if you can always resist the
temptation to do the occasional aerobatics; that is always . . . for ever. I
believe this is difficult in any RV, particularly the -3. Doing the mods
however will give you aerobatic limits (+6 -3g) at 1050 lbs. I found the
spar boom mod difficult to do well on a dry wing (access problems), but on
yours, you could remove the tanks for access to the front of the spar,
making the whole thing a lot easier.
Changing to the new design of wing is probably 'best' solution if you can
face changing the centre box-bulkhead (the parts being match-drilled to the
new spar).
I too have wondered about the lack of mass-balancing on the elevators, but
built mine per plans many years ago - depending on what you discover on this
I may rebuild them to incorporate balances. Might as well, they're the only
bits that haven't been rebuilt at least once!!
So my 2 cents worth is;
a) If you just want an engine test-bed, leave the wings alone and don't
exceed 4.4g.
b) If you think you may be tempted to turn the aeroplane upside down once
or twice, do the mods.
c) If you want the most elegant solution and possibly higher resale value
(against highest cost), put on the new wing.
FWIW, I would do b) if the quality of the existing wings was acceptable.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
Bob (UK)
RV3B / 0-320 (fuselage)
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
> The plane has the original type-1 spars I believe, and Van's says those
are
> good for Utility Category loads. Since I don't see the need to put more
> than about 3 G's on the plane, I will likely leave the wings as is. I
> realize there's an option to install the new wings, at a discount price
from
> Van's, but this sounds like a lot of work and expense, for something that
> doesn't seem necessary. Still, I'll consider doing it. Has anyone
actually
> installed the new wings in a finished fuselage? Van's says you'd have to
> replace the "center section", which doesn't sound like a lot of fun. I
know
> that some of the root rib mods have been done, and the kit for the rest of
> the wing mods is coming with the project, so I'll have to look that over
to
> see what's involved. If you do all the mods to a type-1 spar, does that
> give it aerobatic limits?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | unloading a QB fuse without help |
I picked up the fuse at the Roadway terminal with a 24' U-Haul. I also rented
2 furniture dollies (those 4" high, little 4-wheel platform things). At the
Roadway dock, the fork lift driver put the box in the U-Haul on the dollies
(put each dolly about 4-5 feet from the end of the box). Then tie the whole
thing down very well with ratchet straps (it's on wheels now, so it'll bang
around real bad if you don't!). Make sure the dollies are oriented the "long"
way, so they'll fit on the truck's ramp board).
At the other end, I parked the truck, lowered the deck (it has a dashboard
switch that does this- it's why I used a U-Haul), then horsed it down the
ramp. I had to really push to get it started, and had to finagle it a bit to
get the center over the hump, but in about 2 minutes it was sitting proudly
in the driveway. Then gently push it into the garage, and lever it up from
the side with a 2x4 to free up the dollies. That was work, but I did it
myself.
By the way, when I opened the crate, I DID sit in the fuse and make engine
noises!
Ed Winne
RV-9A fuse now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Dave,
That's exactly right. Fabricate a "U" type bracket with the top 2 bolts
over the engine mount spreader and the bottom 2 bolts on the under/bottom
side of the fuse. That's how I did mine.
Chuck
>
> After doing the engine baffles I haven't got any
> hair left to pull out - anyone got any suggestions on
> how to fit a gascolator on an RV-4 firewall? Seems like
> the bottom engine mount spreader eats up the best location.
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Russell Duffy wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy"
> If you do all the mods to a type-1 spar, does that
> give it aerobatic limits?
Yes, +6/-3Gs
> How many other rotary engine builders do we have out there? Drop me an
> e-mail and we'll stay in touch.
Also see http://members.aol.com/rotaryroster/
Finn
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
Bernie,
Tried the trash dumpsters outside of aircraft factories or completion centers?
You would be surprised what they throw away. I have seen huge honeycomb panels
in these dumpsters not to mention some pretty nice pieces of aluminum scrap.
I don't know if Piper uses the honeycomb but might be
worth a try. Otherwise, next time you're in Savannah check out the Gulfstream
factory.
Regards,
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Bernie Kerr
Subject: RV-List: Salvage airliner floorboards source??
When I rode in Norm Barlett's 6A in NZ, his airplane was very quiet. He
had mounted 747 honeycomb floor panels between the stringers in the
floor area with 6 bolts per panel.
I noticed when I have a soft cooler on the rigtht hand floor of my
airplane it makes a large difference in the noise level when I put it up
on the passenger seat. Also on the recent Las Cruces flight, Gabe could
make a significant difference in the cockpit noise by where he
positioned his feet.
This all leads me to ask, is there anyone out there who knows where I
can get my hands on some surplus honeycomb flooring out of an airplane??
Bernie Kerr
]
l
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/05/2001 08:05:02 AM
You'll need room to mount the LASAR control box which is normally mounted
on the left side of the firewall ( looking in from the prop) and is about
3x7. (I own the master service/ overhaul manual) the other components are
a low voltage harness from the controller to the mags, mags and harness
from the mags to the plugs. There is also and indicator light which mounts
on your panel. Mount holes measure 2.5" and 6.5" on the controller.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Klarich <rklarich(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
The USAF KC-10A which is a DC-10-30 freighter uses a
balsa wood core with aluminum bonded to both sides as
flooring- not much span of course, lots of stringers,
but light stuff overall. I have a piece at home, but
it is a signed going away gift commemorating an
interesting mission.
I'd say it's 3/8 in thickness and .020 gauge al on
both sides, maybe .025, but not .032. Not sure if a
foam of the same thickness can be as good a
"honeycoam" as balsa if you need strength, but is
certainly cheaper. I doubt the USAF has any at
depots/DRMO, there are refitting outfits in Greenwood,
MS and all around Tuscon, AZ.
Cheers,
Rich Klarich
OFallon, IL
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Question on building strategy |
Hi all,
I have come up with a tentative scenario to finish my plane (RV-8) and want
to check to see what you think. I have a large garage, which can be used on
a temporary basis (to keep peace in the family) for fitting wings to
fuselage etc. I will be building the fuse in a walkout basement which will
allow me to remove the fuse without gear and engine. I will have enough
room in the basement to hang the engine and do all of the firewall forward
stuff, but I will have to remove the engine and gear to get the fuse out. I
plan to basically finish the entire plane and remove the gear and everything
firewall forward to get it out of the basement. I figure I could do that in
a week or less. This seems to be a much better way to go than finishing the
plane in a hangar for lots of reasons including travel time and temperature
control. I plan to fly the plane unpainted while I work the bugs out.
Please point out any fatal flaws in my thinking.
Thanks,
Steve Johnson
RV-8 finishing wings and building fuse bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
For what it's worth, the C5 Corvette uses a balsa sandwich in its floor.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Klarich" <rklarich(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Salvage airliner floorboards source??
>
> The USAF KC-10A which is a DC-10-30 freighter uses a
> balsa wood core with aluminum bonded to both sides as
> flooring- not much span of course, lots of stringers,
> but light stuff overall. I have a piece at home, but
> it is a signed going away gift commemorating an
> interesting mission.
>
> I'd say it's 3/8 in thickness and .020 gauge al on
> both sides, maybe .025, but not .032. Not sure if a
> foam of the same thickness can be as good a
> "honeycoam" as balsa if you need strength, but is
> certainly cheaper. I doubt the USAF has any at
> depots/DRMO, there are refitting outfits in Greenwood,
> MS and all around Tuscon, AZ.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rich Klarich
> OFallon, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 wings for sale still & free fuse jig |
I still have an unstarted RV-8A wings for sale. Bought earlier this year
from Van's. But they won't be for sale long because I'll start to build
them once the weather gets too cold for my outdoor fun activities. I'd
rather order the QB wings along with my QB fuse but if I can't find a wing
buyer I'll just build them over the 8 months or so it will take to get the
QB fuse delivered.
let me know. I live in SE Pennsylvania and am not really interested in
reboxing and shipping so I'd prefer someone in my area.
Also, I have an RV 8 fuse jig done per Van's plans I won't be needing now
that I'm dong the QB fuse.
lucky macy
(610) 892-5068
>From: Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: rv-8 wings delay
>Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 10:29:19 -0500
>
>
>Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
>week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
>ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
>the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
>16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
>
>Jonathan Weiswasser
>Elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Loose Flaps --Need Help -- |
Can anyone comment on a "apparent" problem I may have ?? While
conducting the final inspection on a RV-4 I am completing the EAA
inspector grabbed the flaps and airelons and gave them a vigorous strong
shake and wiggle (actually a very quick set of quick continuos wiggles)
and there was considerable movement or "buzzing" for lack of a better
descriptive word. Being the builder, I never shook them that "strongly"
but the inspector was right and correct in his application of the force
to simulate air loads. I don't think he over did the the "wiggle" test.
All the connections are tight, all jam nuts jammed and there is no (
apparent to me) mechanical issue in the electric flap assembly or
linkages. How much play is considered normal ?? Is there something
obvious I am missing here ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on building strategy |
Steve,
We had much the same thought process but after much thought and comments
from other builders - proceeded as follows:
We moved to the garage (single car) to mount the gear, engine, interior
panels and canopy. We then moved to the hanger (44' wide)and were able to
share the space with another EAA builder. While it is about a half hour
drive - it was worthwhile. I would have hated to R&R the gear & engine after
fitting. Especially since much of the firewall forward work was able to be
done in the garage. Also remember you'll most likely need to add additional
lighting at the hanger.
We also painted the aircraft prior to final assembly, with the exception of
the wheel pants and gear leg fairings (glad we did). I makes clean up much
easiler and we didn't have to remove the wings after flying. We used an auto
body shop's paint booth to do the painting - painting the fuselage and
attached emp first - then the cowling and wings.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (25 hour operating limitations - flown off)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Question on building strategy
>Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:27:48 -0600
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have come up with a tentative scenario to finish my plane (RV-8) and want
>to check to see what you think. I have a large garage, which can be used
>on
>a temporary basis (to keep peace in the family) for fitting wings to
>fuselage etc. I will be building the fuse in a walkout basement which will
>allow me to remove the fuse without gear and engine. I will have enough
>room in the basement to hang the engine and do all of the firewall forward
>stuff, but I will have to remove the engine and gear to get the fuse out.
>I
>plan to basically finish the entire plane and remove the gear and
>everything
>firewall forward to get it out of the basement. I figure I could do that
>in
>a week or less. This seems to be a much better way to go than finishing
>the
>plane in a hangar for lots of reasons including travel time and temperature
>control. I plan to fly the plane unpainted while I work the bugs out.
>Please point out any fatal flaws in my thinking.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve Johnson
>RV-8 finishing wings and building fuse bulkheads
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Hmm, that's funny, I've never lost any elevator effectiveness. I've done 4G
stalls. They're violent as all getup, but the elevator still does it's
thing.
Bruce Meacham
RV3 N3456B
>From: "reecerv3" <reecerv3(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV3-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions
>Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:30:13 -0600
>
>--> RV3-List message posted by: "reecerv3"
>
>Russel-
>
>John Harmon and some of the builders from the Bakersfield area added
>counterbalanced elevators to the RV-3.
>
>You should be able to look up John's number somehow and give him a call.
>He
>may be able to tell you some details and why they did it. If I remember
>right from talking to John it was because of the elevator loosing
>effectiveness at high G-loading during aerobatics.
>
>Blue skies!
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 s/n45 still building
>
> >
> > I've seen a few RV-3's with big engines, and I don't see how they keep
>from
> > exceeding the Vne of 215 mph. Are there mods to increase the Vne on the
> > RV-3? For example, I never realized the elevators weren't
>counterbalanced.
> > Has anyone added counterweights? Does it even matter? If not, why did
>I
> > spend all that time balancing my RV-8 elevators :-)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question on building strategy |
Steve,
I have a similar situation. Although it may seem extreme, I installed a functional
double French style door in my walk-out basement. It wasn't too expensive
and was a big improvement over the single door both for the project and the
basement. These doors come 6' wide but it is possible to roll out an -8 if you
remove the two doors and start at a slight angle. I've had the fuse out a couple
of times so I know it can be done.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Wing Leveler |
To those who have installed Navaid Devices wing
levelers,
Do any provisions need to be made in the wings before
closing them in order to install the necessary
hardware for the leveler?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Loose Flaps --Need Help -- |
When you wiggle the ailerons with the stick(s) attached, there is
considerable undamped rotational inertia that can result in buzzing or
apparent "play". That stick has a large moment of inertia relative to the
rest of the system, so when you wiggle the aileron, the stick gets moving
fast and when it suddenly is stopped from the aileron end, it tends to
oscillate for a few cycles.
This is not precisely a simulation of flight-imposed loads, because air flow
will dampen out the any attempt at rapid response at the aileron end of the
linkage.
As for play, that is different. There should be a couple of thousandths at
most in the ailerons, depending on whether holes were drilled or reamed in
bushings and plates. The average person will say there is no play
whatsoever upon feeling the stick response.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: Loose Flaps --Need Help --
>
> Can anyone comment on a "apparent" problem I may have ?? While
> conducting the final inspection on a RV-4 I am completing the EAA
> inspector grabbed the flaps and airelons and gave them a vigorous strong
> shake and wiggle (actually a very quick set of quick continuos wiggles)
> and there was considerable movement or "buzzing" for lack of a better
> descriptive word. Being the builder, I never shook them that "strongly"
> but the inspector was right and correct in his application of the force
> to simulate air loads. I don't think he over did the the "wiggle" test.
> All the connections are tight, all jam nuts jammed and there is no (
> apparent to me) mechanical issue in the electric flap assembly or
> linkages. How much play is considered normal ?? Is there something
> obvious I am missing here ??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | Question on building strategy |
Hi Steve,
I think your approach should work fine - that's essentially what I'm doing
with my -6A.
By building as much of my plane in my 3rd stall garage as possible, I'm
around the house a lot more than I would be if I was building it at a
hanger. This means that I can help out with our two year old son when my
wife needs to run to the store or something like that. When I get to the
point that I need to fit stuff together, I can get the whole plane assembled
in the garage and then pull the wings to take it to the airport. Keeping it
nearby, in conjunction for set building hours (i.e. I won't spend every
waking moment working on it) has kept my marriage happy.
Another benefit of doing it this way, at least from my perspective, is that
I can pop out to the garage for twenty minutes or a half hour at a time.
If my wife runs to the store with our son, I go out and work on the plane
until she returns. If the plane was at a hanger fifteen minutes way, I
wouldn't be able to do that.
Cheers,
Brad
RV6AQB...
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Johnson [mailto:spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com]
Subject: RV-List: Question on building strategy
Hi all,
I have come up with a tentative scenario to finish my plane (RV-8) and want
to check to see what you think. I have a large garage, which can be used on
a temporary basis (to keep peace in the family) for fitting wings to
fuselage etc. I will be building the fuse in a walkout basement which will
allow me to remove the fuse without gear and engine. I will have enough
room in the basement to hang the engine and do all of the firewall forward
stuff, but I will have to remove the engine and gear to get the fuse out. I
plan to basically finish the entire plane and remove the gear and everything
firewall forward to get it out of the basement. I figure I could do that in
a week or less. This seems to be a much better way to go than finishing the
plane in a hangar for lots of reasons including travel time and temperature
control. I plan to fly the plane unpainted while I work the bugs out.
Please point out any fatal flaws in my thinking.
Thanks,
Steve Johnson
RV-8 finishing wings and building fuse bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 seat dimensions |
Does anybody have RV-6 seat cushsion dimensions that they could provide me?
Thanks,
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Engine sputters during stall recovery |
Hi all,
I'm working through my flight testing phase and I have been having an
interesting thing happening during power off stall recoveries. At the
stall break, I gently release back pressure on the stick, and push the
throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the engine coughs and
sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two) before finally coming
up to full power.
I repeated the stalls with several times with various flap settings and
each time the same thing happened with the engine. The curious part is
that I can do an extended 80 MPH glide at idle power and the engine
comes right up when I shove the throttle in. At first I thought I was
pushing it in too fast but repeated attempts, after stall, of slowly
advancing the throttle yielded the same cough/sputter.
For each test, I have had the carb heat on full and haven't tried it
without carb heat yet. I always push in the throttle first, then carb
heat off. Its probably a carburetor problem but I was wondering why it
doesn't do it after a glide but does after every stall. I did notice
that right before the stall, the air coming through the cockpit vents
(from the NACA ducts on the side) totally stops. This makes me wonder
how much ram air I'm getting into the snorkel of the Carb air box during
a stall and recovery (especially with the carb heat on). I was wondering
if its a combination of the lack of airflow though the Carb Air Box and
the carb heat being on that might be causing the sputter and hesitation.
I haven't tried the stalls without carb heat yet because I didn't think
of this until I had already ended the flight. Maybe I will try it again
without carb heat and see what happens.
FYI - engine is Lycoming O-320 H2AD. Carb is a used MA-4SPA.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Listers,
I'm doing the annual on my RV6A and need to replace the carb.
Before I call ACS or Chief, does anyone have a new/remanufactured
MA-4SPA 10-5217 carb for sale ?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing...
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 6th Annual TCAP Invitational Breakfast |
Last year we grew to 38 RV's for
breakfast. Treasure Coast Airpark is a private residential airpark (4000
feet E-W turf runway) located east of the N tip of lake Okeechobee. If
you would like details and an invitation, email me off line at
kerrjb(at)msn.com
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
I am looking forward to converting my plane to a minimum IFR panel. To
make some available space, I have borrowed James Freemans R/M micro unit
that has these three elements. The R/M was first mounted temporarily in
parallel with the 3 analog instruments. It checked out good on the long
Las Cruces flight. I have now removed the AS,VSI, and ALT instruments.
They are USA manufactured. I have flown them now for just over 200 hours
trouble free. The AS has TAS and is a 200 knot instrument, the VSI is a
2000 fpm, and the Altimeter is calibrated to 20000 feet. I am also
removing the fiberlite system since the R/M is backlit.
The 3 instruments cost $849 and fiberlite was $249. I am asking $700 for
all four items.
Write offline or call at 561-466-6701
Bernie Kerr, 6A , 220 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 seat dimensions |
RV Seat Drawings by Ken Hitchmough - Adapted from Tony Bingelis
Drawings,J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca
A few words from Ken
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/cushion.html
RV Seat Drawing One
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/rvseat1.gif
RV Seat Drawing Two
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/rvseat2.gif
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Gunn
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 seat dimensions
Does anybody have RV-6 seat cushsion dimensions that they could provide
me?
Thanks,
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Loose Flaps --Need Help -- |
Hi Philip,
Hard to say whether you have a problem or not. My RV-6A has approx 2"
of flap movement (up and down at the trailing edge) if you put them full
down. Part is slack in the linkage and part is taken up by the "spring"
effect of the flaps leading edge as it pushes against the back of the rear
spar. I've never had any problem like "buzzing" or any movement.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: Loose Flaps --Need Help --
>
> Can anyone comment on a "apparent" problem I may have ?? While
> conducting the final inspection on a RV-4 I am completing the EAA
> inspector grabbed the flaps and airelons and gave them a vigorous strong
> shake and wiggle (actually a very quick set of quick continuos wiggles)
> and there was considerable movement or "buzzing" for lack of a better
> descriptive word. Being the builder, I never shook them that "strongly"
> but the inspector was right and correct in his application of the force
> to simulate air loads. I don't think he over did the the "wiggle" test.
> All the connections are tight, all jam nuts jammed and there is no (
> apparent to me) mechanical issue in the electric flap assembly or
> linkages. How much play is considered normal ?? Is there something
> obvious I am missing here ??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/05/2001 11:16:41 AM
You can get one from Varga at a very reasonable price 800-966-6936 , ask
for Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
Are you saying that you're going to fly IFR with the RMI microencoder
replacing the AS, ALT, and VSI?
If so, that's not a good idea. One failure could put your life in serious
jeopardy. RMI recommends that ONLY the VSI be replaced/removed.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bernie Kerr
Subject: RV-List: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale
I am looking forward to converting my plane to a minimum IFR panel. To
make some available space, I have borrowed James Freemans R/M micro unit
that has these three elements. The R/M was first mounted temporarily in
parallel with the 3 analog instruments. It checked out good on the long
Las Cruces flight. I have now removed the AS,VSI, and ALT instruments.
They are USA manufactured. I have flown them now for just over 200 hours
trouble free. The AS has TAS and is a 200 knot instrument, the VSI is a
2000 fpm, and the Altimeter is calibrated to 20000 feet. I am also
removing the fiberlite system since the R/M is backlit.
The 3 instruments cost $849 and fiberlite was $249. I am asking $700 for
all four items.
Write offline or call at 561-466-6701
Bernie Kerr, 6A , 220 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
Does anyone remember how many g's broke the RV-3 spars when Van tested them
a few year back?
I wonder if one build a light weight RV-3 with no paint, no radios, a wood
propeller, a standard weight pilot and took off with say 6 gallons of fuel
that a 1 g roll performed below the maneuvering speed may be a fairly safe.
Gray
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> Subject: New RV-3
rotary engine project- Questions Date: Nov 05, 2001
Russell,
Leaving the wings as they are is fine if you can always resist the
temptation to do the occasional aerobatics; that is always . . . for ever. I
believe this is difficult in any RV, particularly the -3. Doing the mods
however will give you aerobatic limits (+6 -3g) at 1050 lbs. I found the
spar boom mod difficult to do well on a dry wing (access problems), but on
yours, you could remove the tanks for access to the front of the spar,
making the whole thing a lot easier.
Changing to the new design of wing is probably 'best' solution if you can
face changing the centre box-bulkhead (the parts being match-drilled to the
new spar).
I too have wondered about the lack of mass-balancing on the elevators, but
built mine per plans many years ago - depending on what you discover on this
I may rebuild them to incorporate balances. Might as well, they're the only
bits that haven't been rebuilt at least once!!
So my 2 cents worth is;
a) If you just want an engine test-bed, leave the wings alone and don't
exceed 4.4g.
b) If you think you may be tempted to turn the aeroplane upside down once
or twice, do the mods.
c) If you want the most elegant solution and possibly higher resale value
(against highest cost), put on the new wing.
FWIW, I would do b) if the quality of the existing wings was acceptable.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
Bob (UK)
RV3B / 0-320 (fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
Bernie: I agree with the advice you have gotten NOT to replace the ASI, ALT
and VSI with the Rocky Mountain Instruments micro-encoder for IFR flight.
The only instrument failure I have had in my 3 years of RV-6A flying has been
the loss of my RMI micro-encoder far from home on a cross country in marginal
VFR...
(Well, actually, my whiskey compass has been slowly bleeding to death since
the day I installed it, but I never look at it anyway... GPS, y' know...)
Ron Mowrer builds a good instrument; it was never intended to have a
half-ounce of water sloshing around in its inards, which is what caused the
failure (my tip-up canopy has a better rain seal now, after this incident).
After thorough drying, the unit came back to life, and the only part that had
failed outright was the dc/dc power supply for the backlight, which was
inexpensively replaced.
On that trip, my only altitude reference was the GPS, which is probably not
sensitive enough to use "in the soup." I already have a redundant mechanical
ASI in the panel because its readout is more intuitive when the brain is
busy with other tasks. It's a good thing, as I would not have wanted to fly
home without an airspeed reference, even in VFR. This is a decision you
should ponder awhile before going weight-and cost-savings crazy. For IFR,
I'd vote no (and I'd bet the Feds will, too). For VFR, I think my decision
to replace ALT and VSI with the one unit is justifiable.
Did I mention that a cross-country with that fried electronics smell in the
cockpit is a bit unnerving?! I suggest waterproofing your connectors and/or
drilling a small drain hole in the bottom of the micro encoder can.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 205 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box... |
> I am trying to finish up my filtered air box and was wondering if the carb
> heat door has to completely block off the air from the snorkel, or if
there
> should/could be a gap between the box and the door when it's down...
>
> Hi Bill
I made it with a slight gap then riveted on some of the baffle material on
the door that seals it tight.
Ross Mickey
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Flight Systems |
>Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Flight Systems
>
> Does anyone have any experience with these system?
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
I am installing the DFC-200 in my 6A. The servos are smaller than the S-TEC
ones and the installation very slick. They just introduced their DigiFlight
series to compete with the Navaid product line.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
snipped report on camlocs
> For those of you still building, spend the $90 on the camlocs for the top
of
> the cowl. It will be well worth it.
snip
> Paul Besing
Call me cheap, but $90 for fasteners when #8 countersunk screws and tinnerman washers
do the job just fine????
I used the screws and washer and they worked just fine, although not as cool or
as fast to remove (but I only do that every 25 to 50 hrs).
I guess I'd rather put the $$ towards something for the panel or in the fuel tank.
Just another way to go for the builders out there.
Laird
RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
Sorry to be a bearer of bad news, but if your liquid compass isn't working,
you may not be legal to fly. It is your primary directional aid. Everything
else is secondary.
The following are the minimum required flight and navigation instruments:
(a) An airspeed indicator.
(b) An altimeter.
(c) A direction indicator (nonstabilized magnetic compass).
I suppose it could be argued that experimentals are exempt but what happens
when your electronics don't work?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale
Bernie: I agree with the advice you have gotten NOT to replace the ASI, ALT
and VSI with the Rocky Mountain Instruments micro-encoder for IFR flight.
The only instrument failure I have had in my 3 years of RV-6A flying has
been
the loss of my RMI micro-encoder far from home on a cross country in
marginal
VFR...
(Well, actually, my whiskey compass has been slowly bleeding to death since
the day I installed it, but I never look at it anyway... GPS, y' know...)
Ron Mowrer builds a good instrument; it was never intended to have a
half-ounce of water sloshing around in its inards, which is what caused the
failure (my tip-up canopy has a better rain seal now, after this incident).
After thorough drying, the unit came back to life, and the only part that
had
failed outright was the dc/dc power supply for the backlight, which was
inexpensively replaced.
On that trip, my only altitude reference was the GPS, which is probably not
sensitive enough to use "in the soup." I already have a redundant
mechanical
ASI in the panel because its readout is more intuitive when the brain is
busy with other tasks. It's a good thing, as I would not have wanted to fly
home without an airspeed reference, even in VFR. This is a decision you
should ponder awhile before going weight-and cost-savings crazy. For IFR,
I'd vote no (and I'd bet the Feds will, too). For VFR, I think my decision
to replace ALT and VSI with the one unit is justifiable.
Did I mention that a cross-country with that fried electronics smell in the
cockpit is a bit unnerving?! I suggest waterproofing your connectors and/or
drilling a small drain hole in the bottom of the micro encoder can.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 205 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Group
I'm changing e-mail address's, this is to let people know I will still be
here. My site will be down for a while until I can get it up on my new
provider. My new e-mail address is sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com. I have all but a
few caps and they will start shipping out tomorrow. I will list the one's
that go sometime on wed. The one's that get here later I will do the same
when they ship. Thank you for being patient.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine sputters during stall recovery |
>
>Hi all,
>I'm working through my flight testing phase and I have been having an
>interesting thing happening during power off stall recoveries. At the
>stall break, I gently release back pressure on the stick, and push the
>throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the engine coughs and
>sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two) before finally coming
>up to full power.
>
Maybe the float is lifting up when the nose drops into the stall? Nose goes
down...carb float tries to stay where it was, which is now too high, thus
making carburetor too rich or lean momentarily. A slow, one G descent would
not cause this.
Just a thought.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
266 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine sputters during stall recovery |
I agree with brian that this could be a potential
cause. It takes a substantial nose down control input
to unduce negative g's and sustain them for long
enough to hold the float closed. It can be done but
you definately would feel the g's. Was your sectional
floating against the top of the canopy when the engine
sputtered?
Ross Schlotthauer
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I'm working through my flight testing phase and I
> have been having an
> >interesting thing happening during power off stall
> recoveries. At the
> >stall break, I gently release back pressure on the
> stick, and push the
> >throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the
> engine coughs and
> >sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two)
> before finally coming
> >up to full power.
> >
> Maybe the float is lifting up when the nose drops
> into the stall? Nose goes
> down...carb float tries to stay where it was, which
> is now too high, thus
> making carburetor too rich or lean momentarily. A
> slow, one G descent would
> not cause this.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 266 hrs.
>
>
>
> Month!
> Thank you for your
>
[##---------------------------5.2%-----------------------------]
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mount for Andair Gascolator/Primer... |
Kurt, see the following web page for my solution...
http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm#Fuel%20system
Works well,
Randy Lervold
RV-8.com
> Just wondering if anyone has a digital picture of how they built/mounted
> their Andair Gascolator and Primer to the firewall. Thought I would poll
the
> "list" before I go out and re-invent the wheel on my own. Thanks!!!
>
> Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Monday, November 5, 2001, at 11:27 AM, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> Are you saying that you're going to fly IFR with the RMI microencoder
> replacing the AS, ALT, and VSI?
>
> If so, that's not a good idea. One failure could put your life in serious
> jeopardy. RMI recommends that ONLY the VSI be replaced/removed.
>
>
I'm sure Bernie will answer on his own, but I've been in his plane and
discussed these plans with him. He has two other indications for airspeed
(EIS and PSS AOA system) and at least two other altimeters (UPSAT txpdr
and Grand Rapids EIS),
not counting the two independent GPS receivers which each can give a rough
approximation of Alt. He also has redundant pitot and static sources.
The Dynon instrument, in addition to attitude info, has airdata and
heading as well.
It's a fairly unconventional panel, but there really is a tremendous
amount of redundancy.
James Freeman
"A man with a watch knows what time it is, and man with two watches is
never sure...."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | More camloc stuff |
Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
for those of you listers who have flown an rv6 or 6a into real ifr weather,
what were your findings. we flew a warrior in a level 4 thunderstorm saturday
night, my instructor and i, and it was a very rough ride. lots of tail
wagging, up and down drafts. i know the rv 6 has a tail wagging tendency. is
it controllable. with the sensitive handling of the rv, it seems that with
all the turbulance, it would be difficult to control. it seems that you would
be over controling in all aspects of the flight. i'm sure once i build up
some cloud time i probably want even be asking these questions, but for a
newbie into the soup and turb. makes me wonder. i was able to handle the
warrior without my instructor's input, but worried about something so
sensitive.
scott
tampa
rv6a painting
getting instrument ticket in real ifr weather
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhallcos(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on building strategy |
Steve,
When it comes time to de-mount your engine, consider removing the firewall
forward as a unit. Detach the engine mount from the firewall, leaving
engine, exhaust, etc. attached to the engine mount. A friend of mine, who
built his RV-8 in exactly the same circumstances as you, used that approach
and it worked well for him.
Bob Hall, RV-6
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
Night, single engine , IFR in a level 4 thunderstorm, with an instructor ?
Are you shure he is a CFI ?
Bad judgement-----BIG TIME !!!
Bill Mahoney
RV6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
I think the puckering is where builders get into trouble. You can see it on
high-time RVs with the bent wire approach. Based on fastener strength and
bearing (tear-out) strength, the 4 inches is certainly ok. I was amazed at
the pressure inside my 6A cowl which caused the oil door to balloon out 1/16
inch in flight before I added stiffeners. I went with screws on 3-inch
centers on the top of the cowl.
Dennis Persyk
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-List: More camloc stuff
>
> Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
> Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
> phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
>
> Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> installing engine stuff
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
I would also ask what constitutes a level 4....I've been in some stuff that
I swear were 4 or 5 and really were 1 or 2.
allen
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com [mailto:RV6ator(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: ifr in an rv6a
Night, single engine , IFR in a level 4 thunderstorm, with an instructor ?
Are you shure he is a CFI ?
Bad judgement-----BIG TIME !!!
Bill Mahoney
RV6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
Was he demostrating what you should not do? Find a different instructor and
thank god you are still alive.
John Henley, CFII
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ifr in an rv6a
>
> for those of you listers who have flown an rv6 or 6a into real ifr
weather,
> what were your findings. we flew a warrior in a level 4 thunderstorm
saturday
> night, my instructor and i, and it was a very rough ride. lots of tail
> wagging, up and down drafts. i know the rv 6 has a tail wagging tendency.
is
> it controllable. with the sensitive handling of the rv, it seems that with
> all the turbulance, it would be difficult to control. it seems that you
would
> be over controling in all aspects of the flight. i'm sure once i build up
> some cloud time i probably want even be asking these questions, but for a
> newbie into the soup and turb. makes me wonder. i was able to handle the
> warrior without my instructor's input, but worried about something so
> sensitive.
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a painting
> getting instrument ticket in real ifr weather
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine sputters during stall recovery |
I'm with you on this Brian. I was thinking the same thing. Unweighting the
float would temporarily stop fuel from entering the bowl, plus the momentary
negative "G" and movement of the aircraft may...may.... be uncovering the
fuel ports going to the throat/venturi area of the carb.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine sputters during stall recovery
>Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 19:53:31
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I'm working through my flight testing phase and I have been having an
> >interesting thing happening during power off stall recoveries. At the
> >stall break, I gently release back pressure on the stick, and push the
> >throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the engine coughs and
> >sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two) before finally coming
> >up to full power.
> >
>Maybe the float is lifting up when the nose drops into the stall? Nose
>goes
>down...carb float tries to stay where it was, which is now too high, thus
>making carburetor too rich or lean momentarily. A slow, one G descent
>would
>not cause this.
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>266 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition |
> You'll need room to mount the LASAR control box which is normally mounted
> on the left side of the firewall ( looking in from the prop) and is about
> 3x7.
My wiring harness for this box essentially required me to put the controller
on the left side of the airplane, due to the different lengths of wires to
the L/R mags. Wait until you have the wiring harness.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 36 hours, man, are these planes cool!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine sputters during stall recovery |
> I'm working through my flight testing phase and I have been having an
> interesting thing happening during power off stall recoveries. At the
> stall break, I gently release back pressure on the stick, and push the
> throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the engine coughs and
> sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two) before finally coming
> up to full power.
I don't know that this would matter, but the RPM at stall is probably slower
than during glides, and maybe the engine is loading up a little (running
rich at the low RPM). Next time try recovering without adding power,
establish a glide after the stall at some higher than stall speed, then try
the throttle. ?? BTW, only slightly related, it takes something just under
60 knots or so to windmill an engine that is not firing (mixture ICO,
throttle idle).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 36hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
Those were my thoughts also, no one intentionally flies in
thunderstorms.
Jerry springer, CFI
John Henley wrote:
>
>
> Was he demostrating what you should not do? Find a different instructor and
> thank god you are still alive.
>
> John Henley, CFII
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ifr in an rv6a
>
> >
> > for those of you listers who have flown an rv6 or 6a into real ifr
> weather,
> > what were your findings. we flew a warrior in a level 4 thunderstorm
> saturday
> > night, my instructor and i, and it was a very rough ride. lots of tail
> > wagging, up and down drafts. i know the rv 6 has a tail wagging tendency.
> is
> > it controllable. with the sensitive handling of the rv, it seems that with
> > all the turbulance, it would be difficult to control. it seems that you
> would
> > be over controling in all aspects of the flight. i'm sure once i build up
> > some cloud time i probably want even be asking these questions, but for a
> > newbie into the soup and turb. makes me wonder. i was able to handle the
> > warrior without my instructor's input, but worried about something so
> > sensitive.
> > scott
> > tampa
> > rv6a painting
> > getting instrument ticket in real ifr weather
> >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
As James says there is a lot of redundancy. Sorry that I misled everyone
into thinking I would fly IFR with only the R/M. I have been flying with the
EIS hooked up to my Sam James plenum for pitot pressure and cabin pressure
for static. With the NACA ducts partially open, the airspeed on the EIS
reads within + or - 1 mph of the analog velocity over the speed range from
180 mph to stall. There is also VSI and ALT on the EIS. If the airducts are
full open, then you can see as much as 5 mph slow on the EIS at the high
speed end and the 1 mph type errors at the low end. This makes a great IFR
heated pitot because the pickup is TDC of the engine at the rear of the
plenum. IF there is ice there, you have been without engine power for some
time :>)
Appreciate everones concern for my safety. Will assure you that having been
a propulsion controls engineer for 33 years, that I appreciate the power of
reduncancy.
Now, does anyone know a buyer for the instruments??
Bernie Kerr, 6A, 220 hours, SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale
>
>
> On Monday, November 5, 2001, at 11:27 AM, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> >
> > Are you saying that you're going to fly IFR with the RMI microencoder
> > replacing the AS, ALT, and VSI?
> >
> > If so, that's not a good idea. One failure could put your life in
serious
> > jeopardy. RMI recommends that ONLY the VSI be replaced/removed.
> >
> >
> I'm sure Bernie will answer on his own, but I've been in his plane and
> discussed these plans with him. He has two other indications for airspeed
> (EIS and PSS AOA system) and at least two other altimeters (UPSAT txpdr
> and Grand Rapids EIS),
> not counting the two independent GPS receivers which each can give a rough
> approximation of Alt. He also has redundant pitot and static sources.
>
> The Dynon instrument, in addition to attitude info, has airdata and
> heading as well.
>
> It's a fairly unconventional panel, but there really is a tremendous
> amount of redundancy.
>
> James Freeman
> "A man with a watch knows what time it is, and man with two watches is
> never sure...."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on Cowl |
In a message dated 11/4/01 6:18:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Just like my spinner does not have any visible screws showing. >>
Jerry: Guess I missed something here but how did you accomplish this?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-List: More camloc stuff
>
> Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
> Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
> phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
>
Randy Lervold used Skybolt's camlocks, and I am going to shamelessly copy
what he did. They are expensive but a small price to pay for what I have
invested in my full IFR machine with lots of bells and whisles. He has some
photos on his web site, and I took some more detailed photos which I think I
still have if what he has isn't enough.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ cowl and engine baffles and I'm done! (or wouldn't I like
to think)
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Wing Leveler |
Ross, you may wish to check out this link for some info on the Navaid
installation:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/wing_lg4.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
================================
Ross Schlotthauer wrote:
>
>
> To those who have installed Navaid Devices wing
> levelers,
>
> Do any provisions need to be made in the wings before
> closing them in order to install the necessary
> hardware for the leveler?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing the primer |
Thanks everyone for your answers about the wisdom of removing the primer
system. I do live in a cold area. We fly out of Granby, Colorado (elev.
8400'). It was in the late winter of last year that I decided to experiment
with not using the primer. That was on the recommendation of an RV-4 flyer who
just finished a 6, and built it without a primer. In several hard winters he
never used it, so kept it out of his new plane just to simplify the fuel system.
I haven't yet tried starting on a real cold day, but on several 10-20 degree
mornings (after a colder night), it's 2-3 seconds of the boost pump, 1 squirt of
the throttle, turn the key, and its going after no more than a 1-2 revolutions
of the prop. I do preheat with a glue-on sump heater for at least 3 hours.
I've got it set on a timer to go on about 4:00 AM. When I get to the airport in
the morning its nice and warm inside the cowl. I think cold thick oil or a weak
battery are much greater impediments to starting than primer related fuel
issues.
I'm going to wait for a below zero morning and see how it does. If it's the
same as a 20 degree morning (I suspect it will be), then the primer will go away
the next time the cowl is off.
And finally, I wanted to say something to you Texans and Floridians who got all
panicky because once a couple years ago the temperature plummetted into the bone
chilling 40s and needed their wive's hair dryers to start their engines..... I
wanted to say something, but I just couldn't think of what. Maybe someone else
can help me out here.
Andy
Winter Park, CO
(gills? we don't need no stinkin' gills!)
> One day in
> particular, when it was probably in the 40's, I had to use a heat gun to
> warm up the intake to make it crank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "reecerv3" <reecerv3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: New RV-3 rotary engine project- Questions |
> Hmm, that's funny, I've never lost any elevator effectiveness. I've done
4G
> stalls. They're violent as all getup, but the elevator still does it's
> thing.
Hi Bruce!
John Harmon mentioned that the loss of effectiveness of the elevators was
around 6g's. He said that the elevators had a null and you could move the
stick fore and aft with greatly reduced effectiveness with the elevator
loaded at this high g. His explanation sounded very convincing since he was
doing airshow aerobatics in the RV-3 when he discovered it. He implied
(this was 5 years or so ago. . . and my memory is not what it used to be!)
that the counterbalancing seemed to improve and/or eliminate this effect at
the same loading.
For what it's worth.
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | RE: Filtered Air Box Thanks! & Vetterman Exhaust... |
Just wanted to say thanks for all the input I got on my filtered air box...
I use the TAR method, and got it all finished up...
On another note... I got my Vetterman exhaust today and it is simply a work
of art... I am sure it will be the best looking thing on my RV, and nobody
will be able to see it! Dammit!
Also, I can't say enough about Larry Vetterman... The first words out of my
mouth when I called him were "Larry, I'm totally broke, but need an exhaust
system." and after he stopped laughing hysterically, he convinced me that
his exhaust was the way to go. I didn't need much convincing, but after
talking with him, I had no doubt that buying from him was the right thing to
do... He asked me if I needed gaskets, I said no. He asked me if I needed
the mounting/hanging kit for $40, I said I couldn't afford it. He said,
that's ok, it wouldn't be that hard to make my own... Guess what, there was
a mounting kit in my box when it came today. No charge...
Need I say more?
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage airliner floorboards source?? |
Have a look at my website page
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/interior.html#floor to see how I
sanwiched in my floor with AL (no honeycomb)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
I can't help you with a specific reference to an RV-6a, but I flew my RV-3 in
the clouds once. It was about what you'd expect based on how the plane flies
in VMC. It was very do-able, but I wouldn't want to be an average 100hr/year
pilot and count on being competent in IMC in an RV.
Bottom line, IMHO, it can be done, but it will require a dedicated and
sustained effort on your part to remain both legal (current) and, more
importantly, proficient (safe).
A comment re: your current instrument instruction. >>stuff re: Level 4 TS
deleted. I'm sure you've got the message from all the other posts.<< If you
were unlucky enough to get into something like this in the RV, I'd rather be
flying an RV with it's positive control as compared to a mushy spam can.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
RV-3 N99RV (sold)
RV-3 #11339 (work in progress)
Regional airline pilot
CFI-I
In a message dated 11/5/01 2:51:25 PM Mountain Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> for those of you listers who have flown an rv6 or 6a into real ifr weather,
> what were your findings. we flew a warrior in a level 4 thunderstorm
> saturday
> night, my instructor and i, and it was a very rough ride. lots of tail
> wagging, up and down drafts. i know the rv 6 has a tail wagging tendency.
> is
> it controllable. with the sensitive handling of the rv, it seems that with
> all the turbulance, it would be difficult to control. it seems that you
> would
> be over controling in all aspects of the flight. i'm sure once i build up
> some cloud time i probably want even be asking these questions, but for a
> newbie into the soup and turb. makes me wonder. i was able to handle the
> warrior without my instructor's input, but worried about something so
> sensitive.
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a painting
> getting instrument ticket in real ifr weather
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
In a message dated 11/5/2001 1:46:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
> Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
> Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
> phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
>
> Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
>
It has been my experiance that the phillips camlocs suck....they strip out
way to easy. Use the flush style slot type they work much better.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Engine sputters during stall recovery |
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I'm working through my flight testing phase and I have been having an
> >interesting thing happening during power off stall recoveries. At the
> >stall break, I gently release back pressure on the stick, and push the
> >throttle forward smoothly. The problem is that the engine coughs and
> >sputters momentarily (for maybe a second or two) before finally coming
> >up to full power.
Hi Eric
I'm just guessing here but I would check the idle mixture, maybe set it a
little leaner and try again.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
In a message dated 11/5/2001 4:46:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
>>
i used the complete kit on my rv6a (with an s-glass cowl) and it was
excellent in every way. i used the no-slip, captive, slotted heads instead
of the phillips. the spacing is about 4-5 inches and the s-glass cowl doesnt
pucker or move. i did put a metal backing strip arount the edges, of course.
i have about 60 hours on the plane and all is well. people call it pricey
but it sure makes cowl removal and replacement easier (which you will do a
hundred times during your first year) and compared to total investment, it is
a drop in the bucket...
paul
rv6a/180/cs/n632M/60 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/5/2001 1:46:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> > Has anyone ordered a camloc kit (for cowling installation) from
> > Skybolt? They sell a complete set of 46 stainless, countersunk,
> > phillips, 1/4 turn camlocs for the RV-8.
> >
> > Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> > etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> > sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> >
>
> It has been my experiance that the phillips camlocs suck....they strip out
> way to easy. Use the flush style slot type they work much better.
>
> Tim Barnes
> N39TB
October 29, 2001 - November 06, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lu