RV-Archive.digest.vol-lv
November 06, 2001 - November 13, 2001
Do you mean to say that the phillips heads are so crappy that they're
stripping from the force required to move them 1/4 turn? Wow!
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
I have hundreds of IFR hours in my -6A and never saw any yaw problems
any worst that the piper series. In all cases, I'd say it was less than the
turbulence induced yaw in the Piper 140.
I must add that flying an RV in solid IFR is not a easy as flying a C-182
or Bananza. The RV is pitch and roll sensitive in turbulence and requires
continuous concentration on the instruments. If you are alone and need to
take an amended clearance AND look that clearance up on the charts AND fly
the airplane, you could very quickly get behind the airplane. It can be
done, but it takes a skill level that is usually beyond most infrequent
flyers. These types of conditions are when a wing leveler really makes a
difference........
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1855 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
___
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ifr in an rv6a
for those of you listers who have flown an rv6 or 6a into real ifr weather,
what were your findings. we flew a warrior in a level 4 thunderstorm
saturday
night, my instructor and i, and it was a very rough ride. lots of tail
wagging, up and down drafts. i know the rv 6 has a tail wagging tendency. is
it controllable. with the sensitive handling of the rv, it seems that with
all the turbulance, it would be difficult to control. it seems that you
would
be over controling in all aspects of the flight. i'm sure once i build up
some cloud time i probably want even be asking these questions, but for a
newbie into the soup and turb. makes me wonder. i was able to handle the
warrior without my instructor's input, but worried about something so
sensitive.
scott
tampa
rv6a painting
getting instrument ticket in real ifr weather
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Filtered Air Box Thanks! & Vetterman Exhaust... |
Good choice on the exhaust, Bill. I've had several builders (of various
makes) come by and look at my exhaust and ask who made it? One guy was a
welder by trade and spent several minutes inspecting the welds on the
exhaust. He admitted that he couldn't do that good.
Whether it Larry Vetterman, Bart LeBlonde, or Craig Catto, there are a lot
of good guys lurking on this list! I try my hardest to do business with
list members.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: RV-List: RE: Filtered Air Box Thanks! & Vetterman Exhaust...
Just wanted to say thanks for all the input I got on my filtered air box...
I use the TAR method, and got it all finished up...
On another note... I got my Vetterman exhaust today and it is simply a work
of art... I am sure it will be the best looking thing on my RV, and nobody
will be able to see it! Dammit!
Also, I can't say enough about Larry Vetterman... The first words out of my
mouth when I called him were "Larry, I'm totally broke, but need an exhaust
system." and after he stopped laughing hysterically, he convinced me that
his exhaust was the way to go. I didn't need much convincing, but after
talking with him, I had no doubt that buying from him was the right thing to
do... He asked me if I needed gaskets, I said no. He asked me if I needed
the mounting/hanging kit for $40, I said I couldn't afford it. He said,
that's ok, it wouldn't be that hard to make my own... Guess what, there was
a mounting kit in my box when it came today. No charge...
Need I say more?
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor with
3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of epoxy,
and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
that.
Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
turned up:
http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds like
pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
Senior Software Engineer
Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ifr in an rv6a |
Scott
I doubt you were in a level 4 as the plane would PROBABLY be almost
uncontrolable and a level 5 has a good chance of aircraft breaking up.Stay
away from thunderbumpers.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@97FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
It may trap moisture under there. I did it by screwing
thru the floor into the wood.
--- Don Hyde wrote:
>
>
> I have an idea of filling the spaces between the
> angles on the floor with
> 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a
> thin layer of epoxy,
> and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than
> .016 epoxied on top of
> that.
>
> Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive.
> A quick web search
> turned up:
>
> http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
>
> with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for
> $25.33, which sounds like
> pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
>
> Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
>
> Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> Senior Software Engineer
> Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
>
>
>
> Month!
> Thank you for your
>
[##---------------------------5.5%-----------------------------]
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
> > Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> > etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> > sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
>
> It has been my experiance that the phillips camlocs suck....they strip out
> way to easy. Use the flush style slot type they work much better.
I think my spacing is around 3.5" and I get just the tiniest bit of
puckering visible only when in flight. I haven't had any problem with the
philips whatsoever and went that way because I there are philips screws all
over the plane, plus my oil door has two philips camlocs (I changed the 2600
series studs from the "wings" that Van's provides to flush philips... much
better looking and easier to wipe down the cowl).
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
My only concern would be the chance of holding moisture up against a
structural, stressed skin for indefinite periods of time...
Scott in Vancouver
-6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hyde" <DonH(at)axonn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
> I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor with
> 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of epoxy,
> and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> that.
>
> Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
> turned up:
>
> http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
>
> with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds
like
> pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
>
> Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
>
> Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> Senior Software Engineer
> Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Seeking advice for long X - country Seattle to Connecticut |
Gentlemen,
In the next week or so, I will be flying an RV-9 from Seattle to Bridgeport,
CT. As this will be my first time West of the Rockies, I was wondering if I
could solicit some advice on the trip. My thought was to stay north where
the Rockies are much lower and to do some sight seeing at Glacier National
Park, Badlands Nat'l park and Yellowstone. A flyby of Mt. Rushmore is also
under consideration.
I'm also interested in crashing at anyone along the way's house for the
evening.
The gentleman who is purchasing the plane has graciously told me that I can
use the plane to fly around the country for pretty much as long as I wish.
So, if you are a builder and can offer advice and/or local knowledge, I'd be
happy to take you for a ride along the way.
Thank you.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT (Grounded in a Nuclear TFR area.)
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Followup to Seeking XC advice Seattle to CT |
Oh yes, please reply to my email address in addition to the list as I
recieve summaries only once a day.
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking advice for long X - country Seattle to Connecticut |
--- Donald Mei wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> In the next week or so, I will be flying an RV-9 from Seattle to
> Bridgeport,
> CT. As this will be my first time West of the Rockies, I was
> wondering if I
> could solicit some advice on the trip. My thought was to stay north
> where
> the Rockies are much lower and to do some sight seeing at Glacier
> National
> Park, Badlands Nat'l park and Yellowstone. A flyby of Mt. Rushmore
> is also
> under consideration.
>
> I'm also interested in crashing at anyone along the way's house for
> the
> evening.
>
> The gentleman who is purchasing the plane has graciously told me that
> I can
> use the plane to fly around the country for pretty much as long as I
> wish.
> So, if you are a builder and can offer advice and/or local knowledge,
> I'd be
> happy to take you for a ride along the way.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT (Grounded in a Nuclear TFR area.)
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
Don:
Do not have any expectations about the trip. Go just for the
experience. Check weather, monitor flight watch (122.0), fly like you
were taught as a student pilot, do a one eighty if the weather gets
bad, always have an out, and error on the safe side.
Sorry I am not more specific. Glacier Park is beautiful. Mt Rushmore
is a much see. I used a VOR Radial to find it. Mondel Field in New
Castle, WY was my fuel stop on one trip. Also stopped at Rapid City
one trip. Jackson Hole was a stop just to say I had been there but
fuel was very expensive. Many nice places to stop in Idaho and
Montana. I know that you will not be able to stop at all the nice
places.
Keep an eye on weather and always have an out. Know where the closest
airport is at all times. Alway have an emergency landing area in
gliding distance.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
980.3+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
Years ago I built a sound-proofing enclosure for the single-cylinder diesel
on the familie's sailboat using one-inch-thick prefab sandwich of metal foil
bonded to thick, closed cell foam with a thin sheet of lead in there as
well. The results were dramatic and I have some left over. The only drawback
would be it's weight which provides considerable damping qualities. It cost
70$Cdn for a 4X4ft peice at a marine store. Has anyone tried using this
stuff for the floor in the -6?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
> My only concern would be the chance of holding moisture up against a
> structural, stressed skin for indefinite periods of time...
> Scott in Vancouver
> -6 finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hyde" <DonH(at)axonn.com>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
>
> >
> > I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor
with
> > 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of
epoxy,
> > and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> > that.
> >
> > Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
> > turned up:
> >
> > http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
> >
> > with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds
> like
> > pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
> >
> > Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
> >
> > Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> > Senior Software Engineer
> > Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Looking for a presure switch |
The local automotive shops here are unable to locate a pressure switch for
me. It's 1/8th NPT, NC, 0.5psi.
Anyone know where I can get one?
thanks,
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
> My only concern would be the chance of holding moisture up against a
> structural, stressed skin for indefinite periods of time...
> Scott in Vancouver
> -6 finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hyde" <DonH(at)axonn.com>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
>
> >
> > I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor
with
> > 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of
epoxy,
> > and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> > that.
> >
> > Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
> > turned up:
> >
> > http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
> >
> > with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds
> like
> > pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
> >
> > Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
> >
> > Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> > Senior Software Engineer
> > Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking advice for long X - country Seattle to Connecticut |
Don,
Your plan to avoid the highest parts of the Rockies is a wise one. It is
very easy to traverse the Rockies along a line roughly from Boise, ID to
Cheyenne, WY. There are a few high sections along here, but they are easily
traversed, or flown over if the weather is right. We would love to have you
visit us here in Erie, CO (48V) north of Denver. 48V is also closed due to
proximity to a nuclear site, but nearby Longmont, CO (2V2) is open. You are
welcome to stay overnight (if you are a non smoker, my wife is horribly
allergic)
We are building a RV9A and would like to see yours. My wife hasn't gotten a
ride in a -9 yet. (hint, hint)
I realize that we are a little out of the way, but if you want visit the
Denver area, come on down.
Cliff
RV9A -- Wings
> Gentlemen,
>
> In the next week or so, I will be flying an RV-9 from Seattle to
Bridgeport,
> CT. As this will be my first time West of the Rockies, I was wondering if
I
> could solicit some advice on the trip. My thought was to stay north where
> the Rockies are much lower and to do some sight seeing at Glacier National
> Park, Badlands Nat'l park and Yellowstone. A flyby of Mt. Rushmore is
also
> under consideration.
>
> I'm also interested in crashing at anyone along the way's house for the
> evening.
>
> The gentleman who is purchasing the plane has graciously told me that I
can
> use the plane to fly around the country for pretty much as long as I wish.
> So, if you are a builder and can offer advice and/or local knowledge, I'd
be
> happy to take you for a ride along the way.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT (Grounded in a Nuclear TFR area.)
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale |
And how well does YOUR central nervous system recognize and interpret
> data presented in numerical format?
Bill brings up a very good point. I have discovered that most people who
learned on analog instruments do not prefer digital readouts. On the other
hand, I learned to fly with digital instruments, so I have trouble
interpeting analog instuments.
Likewise I learned to fly a heading on a whiskey compass, and I do not do
well flying a heading on an gyro heading indicator. I have an emotional
attachment to that to which I am first exposed.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
> Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
Great, fantastic customer support. You can talk to one of their salesman
and he will walk you through the steps. He will also explain what you need
and why. If you need extra parts, they ship real fast! In some cases will
not charge for broken parts (parts that I broke).
Spacing; space them so that it looks even on both sides of the cowl, 4" for
me would not work geometrically. My spacing is about 3.6890", no fiberglass
puckering.
I would rather use the piano hinge method, but could not make it work. I
was spending 2-3 hours each time I put on the top cowl. Now it takes about
2-3 minutes. I only used the camlocs for the top cowl; piano hinges for
everthing else.
Installing camlocs is more time consuming than installing the piano hinge,
but it is easier to mate the cowl to the fueslage with camlocs, as they
have some spacing leeway, and the piano hinge has none.
Recommendation, if you can make the piano hinge work, go with that. If you
don't want to take a chance on having to redo the piano hinge like I had to,
then go with camlocs initially.
Life is great.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
Hello Don,
My thinking on gluing material into the structural flooring in the footwell
area on my 6A led me to put sheet metal flooring with insulation attached to
it's underside. I did not like the idea of gluing to the floor structure
because inspecting structure at annuals would be very difficult at the very
least.
Also the likelihood that moisture could be retained and lead to corrosion in
the hidden floor structural areas put me off. I chose to include
structurally attached flooring that is removable with screws, has spaces
under it and is open at the for and aft ends so that air can freely
circulate through the area.
Mike Nellis has been kind enough to keep photos and drawings on his web site
http://bmnellis.com under "builder ideas" at the bottom of the page click
on Jim Jewell Ideas and See if you find anything that you can use or get
some ideas from.
Doing the floors as I have done made the whole floor area much stronger and
should be quieter as well. If the bank account holds up the 6A will fly in
the coming year. At witch point I will be able to assess and report as to
the merrits of my efforts if any.
Jim in Kelowna - the slider is now a done deal.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hyde" <DonH(at)axonn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
> I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor with
> 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of epoxy,
> and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> that.
>
> Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
> turned up:
>
> http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
>
> with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds
like
> pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
>
> Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
>
> Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> Senior Software Engineer
> Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a presure switch |
scott
i just got one from vans, it also has a n/o & n/c so you can wire in a
warning light. it fits right on the center port of the manifold that van
sells also.
scott
tampa
much smoother flight tonight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | FW: High time RVs |
Heres a message from Paul Rosales (Lancaster,CA) about his problems with the RV
in the last year and a half. You might note he's averaging 1.4 hours per DAY....Oh
my Gawd.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
From: paul.rosales(at)lmco.com on Tue, Nov 6, 2001 3:10 PM
Hello to the RV-List :-) Laird was off by a couple hundred hours as
our RV-6A Hobbs just turned 700 hours on a trip to Las Vegas last weekend.
I'd be glad to share the maintenance issues that we've had with our plane
which is averaging about 1.4 flight hours per day since July 4, 2000.
Our O-360 engine was new from Van's and falls under the 'piston-pin'
wear warranty. It has been on oil analysis since day one with all tests
coming back "All values appear normal". We run this engine with the 83deg
fixed pitch Sensenich Prop and have been averaging 160 KTAS @ 7.2
gallons/hour (2500rpm) for the last 450 hours. I lean to 1380deg EGT which
is 50deg rich of peak for our engine:
First Flight: Leaking oil temperature sender....don't use the rubber
o-ring that comes with it - use a copper gasket! A few ounces of oil sure
can make a BIG mess! $0.50 repair. Also, the plate that covers my unused
governor pad has leaked off and on for quite awhile after having used
different sealants. Permatex Copper-Coat sealant finally fixed this one.
Exhaust Hangers: Same as Laird as they too were a real nuisance. I
used the hangers that came with the Vettermen exhaust system and was having
problems with the 90deg angle breaking. A friend here at work sneaked in a
'G-job' and replaced the problem parts with some titanium pieces that had a
gentle 90 bend.....haven't had a problem since. Larry has also redesigned
the hangers to put the 90deg bend in the stainless clamp which I understand
works great!
Exhaust Pipe: Cracked at the ball joint in-flight (this makes a LOT
of noise). I'm sure this was attributed to my hanger problems and
inadequate inspections when the cowl was off...rewelded by a friend for free
and is checked for cracks EVERY TIME the cowl is off.
LASAR Magneto: This was a weird one....I first started having a
spark plug 'fouling' problem show up on #4 lower plug that would clean up
after running the RPM up to 2200 and leaning. It continued to get worse so
I changed the plug AND checked (buzzed) out the wire. With a known good
plug and good wire, the 'fouling' continued so this pointed to the mag. I
called Unison, explained my problem and the troubleshooting I did, and they
gladly sent me 2 new mags (I only asked for one and they were still
in-warranty). The new mag fixed my 'fouling' problem. I never thought a
mag would go bad on only one cylinder...
Alternator: After 400 hours, the (Mark Landoll - Mitsubishi type)
internal regulator died...$25 repair. 100 hours later, one of the screws
that hold this regulator in place came loose (on the ramp). It wedged and
did not allow the shaft to spin. 3 hours from home and full of gas, I cut
the belt off and flew home. Free repair by same shop with Locktite used on
the threads. I can monitor these screws (the tips poke out the case) with
the cowl off along with exhaust pipe cracks.
Brake Pads: I went through the first set in less than 100 hours and
replaced...replaced again at 200 hours. Dummy me...the brakes would drag
occasionally when I pulled the plane into the hangar...I thought this
'normal'. Jim Baker told me that I might have 'short' springs on the brake
cylinders and to call Van's. I did, and they sent me new springs that were
4.25" long (1.25" longer than the ones I took off). Next set of pads went
450 hours...
Tires: I'm on my 4th set having tried Aero Trainers with each set
lasting about 200 hours (I replace tires at the first sign of 'bald' spots).
I splurged on the current set of Goodyear Flight Custom IIs that recently
went on to get a different 'data' point. The nosewheel was replaced at 520
hours.
Wheel Pant: I bonded my intersection fairings to the pant, and
recently, the rear section caught the slipstream and tore off. I had
noticed it wasn't as stiff as the other side but didn't think about it ever
coming off. Repaired with 6 layers of glass, and I can't EVEN bend it now.
Repainted free by my brother.
Airframe issues: Some chipped paint on the leading edges from the
all the rain we had in Alaska :-(
So far, we've been averaging about 0.75 hours of maintenance for
every 10 flight hours. We have been VERY happy with the performance of our
plane and all the enjoyment it has brought into our lives (so keep poundin'
them rivets :-) We are planning trips to Florida at Thanksgiving and to New
York at Christmas :-) My two jobs are still keeping up with the fuel
bill....We have met SO MANY wonderful people around the country and look
forward to meeting many more in years to come so see you on the ramp!
Paul & Victoria Rosales
Lancaster, CA
RV-6A N628PV, 701 hours since 7/4/00
prosales(at)qnet.com
> Date: Oct 23, 2001
>
> From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>
> Subject: High time RVs
>
> Sam,
>
> The biggest thing Gary has to watch out for is T-Birds driving on the
> taxiways! You remember he got hit by a big piece of Ford tin several years
> ago. He'd have many more hours on the RV if that hadn't happened. I'm
> sure he'll pipe up on what problems he's had.
>
> I think Paul Rosales now has over 1000 hours on his RV-6a now (see the
> March picture in the RV calendar). This is all since June, 2000. Paul,
> what problems have you had?
>
> I'm coming up on 400 hrs soon. My Father and I have had the RV from SoCal
> to Delaware, and Arlington to the Bahamas. The only (knock on wood)
> problems to date has been a failed oil cooler (setrab at 3 hrs), an errant
> hawk and sparrow (all of which have been well detailed here on the list),
> and the basic maintenance of oil and tires and fuel.
>
> Well, I guess I take that back. The exhaust hangers have been a nuisance
> since the beginning. I reworked/redesigned them several times and they've
> finally been working well for the last 100 hrs. The other thing I've
> replaced is the carb heat cable. The heat from the exhaust melted the
> inner liner of the cable. I also have a nuisance oil lead up by the mags
> that I can't seem to fix.
>
> Every part of the airframe is working fine except 2 small cracks in the
> rudder skin radiating from a rivet, and 2 smoking rivets on the lower fwd
> skin. I was also having problems keeping the fiberglass gear leg fairings
> from breaking the mounting tabs (must be those rough landings), but I
> finally come up with a system that has bee working well for me.
>
> I consider most of those things construction bugs that I've finally gotten
> fixed. I look forward to many more hours of fun in the coming years.
>
> But the biggest problem I have is trying to keep money in the fuel
> account! Oh well, it's worth it.
>
> Matter of fact, screw the bank account, I think I'll fly it out to Las
> Cruses this weekend to join in the fun. Most of the SoCal wing that is
> attending should be there around noon Friday if the usual low morning
> clouds don't keep us on the ground until later.
>
> Look forward to seeing you all there. The rest of you keep working on your
> kits. Someday it'll be SOOOOO worth it.
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
> From:
> rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Oct 23, 2001 7:39 AM
>
> Subject:
> High time RVs
>
>
> Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have experienced
> similar results.
>
> However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your RV.
> Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs (or
> RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or service
> issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your plane.
> Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the hours
> accumulate?
>
> Of course we anticipate 1000 hrs eventually being considered "low" time
> on our planes. :-)
>
> Thanks in advance for your reply,
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ======================
>
> "Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
>
> > Robin:
> >
> > I have the MicroMonitor with the 201 sender. I use it more as a fuel
> > totalizer and fuel remaining more than I do as an instantaneous fuel
> > flow. I know at certain power settings to expect a certain fuel flow
> > at a given altitude and if I do not, I am not leaned enough.
> >
> > After 969.4 flying hours, I keep track of every drop of fuel and fuel
> > flow totalizer values. All of them are in a spreadsheet. Once a year,
> > I evaluate the entire year data.
> >
> > The sender is only 2.5% accurate according to the manufacturer. My
> > average last year was 3.5%. I have left it so that it show a slight
> > greater fuel flow than actual. This is a built in safety factor.
> >
> > Yes you can get better than 5%. It is great that you have it that
> > close in less than 60 hours. It is very difficult to do it on one
> > tank. Run several hundred gallons of fuel keeping records. Made
> > adjustments accordingly.
> >
> > ====
> > Gary A. Sobek
> > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> > 969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> > http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Using an 0-235 in RV9A |
When I first read about the RV9, I was intrigued that I could use an 0-235
engine. Smaller, economical, less expensive.... However, when I talked to
someone at Van's, he almost laughed at me for considering an 0-235 and said
that "everyone is using an 0-320..." I was ok with that until I read the
RVator that came yesterday - it has a lengthly article emphasizing that we
should not overpower an RV9 and go with NOTHING bigger than the 160 hp
0-320. So what do other listers have to say - what to you think of using the
0-235 in an RV9? I don't really care if it is a few knots slower than the
0-320 as long as it has a decent cruise speed and enough power to climb out
of trouble.
Ideas appreciated.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A finishing fuse, shopping for engine.
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AS, ALT, and VSI for sale (Bills ??) |
Bill,
Not sure I have answers to all your ?'s.
I have to admit that the stalls I did were power off. I depend primarily on
my AOA for stall info not airspeed. I do not normally look at airspeed when
doing a 3 g accel stall, but the AOA is dead on when the break will occur. I
will try to check airspeed during a power on 1 g stall next time I fly
(probably over a week from now, going away in the van not the airplane for a
week:>((. Will also look at it with the engine running at different rpm with
aircraft static. Will the FAA approve. Don't believe they have to since it
is an airspeed measurement in and experimental. Currently the R/M is hooked
to the build of materials static and pitot.
I was very sceptical of digital instruments since I have looked at analog
displays since soloing in 1953. Using the EIS has proved to be a snap and I
really enjoy the digital output. Gabe and I played holding altitude in
simulated IFR on the long trip home from LOE to Fla and I can hold altitude
much closer with the digital display than I can with the analog. It is not
really comfortable landing on digital airspeed yet, but once again I depend
heavily on the AOA anyway. Think I will adapt soon since I have now removed
the analog gages.
Yes, all the gages are electrical except the vacum horizon and DG. Am I
concerned, probably not enough to warrant a backup battery or alternator at
this point. My mind may be improved on that with time.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Not RV-building related - What can we do to help our GA cause? |
On 11/6 Ken Brooks offered several politically oriented suggestions to help
influence further relief from the current flight restrictions.
As reported by EAA/AOPA, one of the NSC's primary concerns with general
aviation is "not knowing where the airplane is going." I would suggest one
of the best things we can do operationally is make use of VFR flight
following services from ATC. This is easy to do and provides several
benefits to the pilot.
1. Your altitude and route are verified and known which permits traffic
advisories to other aircraft and better traffic situational awareness for
you. You always have the same altimeter setting as IFR traffic in your
area. Remember there is only 500 feet of clearance between your VFR
altitude and opposite direction IFR traffic.
2. Easy access through various classes of controlled and restricted
airspace. Center will advise on status of MOAs, class B and C etc. and in
nearly all cases either hand you off to the proper agency for clearance or
provide vectors around the airspace. On a recent flight I heard center very
helpfully vectoring an aircraft around one of the TFR's.
3. In the event of an emergency, you are in immediate contact with someone
who knows exactly where you are.
With VFR flight following you have nearly all of the benefits of an IFR
clearance, with the exception of flight in IMC conditions, for the price of
a radio call. You are still free in nearly all cases to fly the route and
altitude of your choice.
Try it, you'll like it, and it may just save you unintentionally entering
airspace you are not cleared into or meeting another airplane up close and
personal.
Do not archieve.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
the answers to my gascolator questions
were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
is not the lowest straight-path point in the
fuel system, what's the difference between it
and any other fuel filter?
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
Good post, Bob. This is exactly my set up, and experience with Skybolt.
This led me to my initial post. Another post said that A couple hundred
dollars on camlocs (if you do the whole cowl in camlocs, not necessary as
Bob pointed out) is a drop in the bucket compared to the 40, 50, or 60K you
have in the plane. I'm glad I went with the camlocs on the top. Probably a
4 hour job to rip out the hinges and replace with camlocs. Also one note,
these are not Camloc brand fasteners. Skybolt has their own brand, and the
quality is very, very good. So much to say that it appears to be superior
than Camloc brand. I have the phillips variety (larger heads with
countersunk washers) and I can't see how they could be stripped. Very hard
alluminum or stainless if that is what they are.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: More camloc stuff
> Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
Great, fantastic customer support. You can talk to one of their salesman
and he will walk you through the steps. He will also explain what you need
and why. If you need extra parts, they ship real fast! In some cases will
not charge for broken parts (parts that I broke).
Spacing; space them so that it looks even on both sides of the cowl, 4" for
me would not work geometrically. My spacing is about 3.6890", no fiberglass
puckering.
I would rather use the piano hinge method, but could not make it work. I
was spending 2-3 hours each time I put on the top cowl. Now it takes about
2-3 minutes. I only used the camlocs for the top cowl; piano hinges for
everthing else.
Installing camlocs is more time consuming than installing the piano hinge,
but it is easier to mate the cowl to the fueslage with camlocs, as they
have some spacing leeway, and the piano hinge has none.
Recommendation, if you can make the piano hinge work, go with that. If you
don't want to take a chance on having to redo the piano hinge like I had to,
then go with camlocs initially.
Life is great.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6 Tail for Parts |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
I have a pre punched RV 6 tail that is still in the box that can be used
for parts. I don't want to see it wasted. I bought an orphan project
that had wing kit and two tail kits.
Joe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on stiff, quiet floor |
Greetings,
Based on advice that I received from Joe (Schumacher, I believe) in
Oshkosh while there 2 years ago looking at 2 RV's very near completion,
I am using a rigid foam from Aircraft Spruce. Fits easily between the
stiffeners, adds rigidity, sound proofing, and insulation against hot
feet. It is .75 thick and cuts real easily. I plan on adding a sheet of
thin aluminum (from McMaster Carr) on top of it to seal it in.
David Wentzell
RV-6 Finishing
Racine, Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | elevator balance |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I drilled holes in the lead on the RH elevator to balance.
The LH has the trim cable + the cover + all the cover screws.
I think I should remove the cable & install the cover, but the real world
is the cable add a bunch of drag.
What did you guys do?
Also, when I torqued the pivot bolts the assembly was do longer drag
free. It is smooth just stops if any force is stoppedon it. Is this
normal??
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a presure switch |
Are you looking for a single or two wire switch, what will it be used for
and why the really low .5 psi open point. I will try and remember to look
thru the parts books tomorrow and see what I can find. There should be
several switches in the general area you are looking for.
George Meketa
RV8 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
RV-List: Looking for a presure switch
> The local automotive shops here are unable to locate a pressure switch for
> me. It's 1/8th NPT, NC, 0.5psi.
> Anyone know where I can get one?
> thanks,
> Scott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin L French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for a presure switch |
Try http://www.worldmagnetics.com/pressure.html
Edwin L (Ted) French
Prince George BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: RV-List: Looking for a presure switch
The local automotive shops here are unable to locate a pressure switch for
me. It's 1/8th NPT, NC, 0.5psi.
Anyone know where I can get one?
thanks,
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
> My only concern would be the chance of holding moisture up against a
> structural, stressed skin for indefinite periods of time...
> Scott in Vancouver
> -6 finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hyde" <DonH(at)axonn.com>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Thought on stiff, quiet floor
>
>
> >
> > I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor
with
> > 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of
epoxy,
> > and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> > that.
> >
> > Sounds rigid, insulated, and not terribly expensive. A quick web search
> > turned up:
> >
> > http://www.fiberlay.com/Pages/coresend.html
> >
> > with a 2X4 foot sheet of suitable balsa blocks for $25.33, which sounds
> like
> > pretty close to enough for an RV-6A.
> >
> > Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
> >
> > Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
> > Senior Software Engineer
> > Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 Tail & wing kit for sale |
I have a buddy who needs to sell his 6 tail and wing kits. The tail is 90%
built and only the spar has been assembled on the wing kit. Any offers will
be considered.
Contact me off the list if you are interested and I will give his phone #.
(So Cal area).
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: shield strobe power wires/ EXP2 bus |
Hey folks,
I have my Whelen power packs mounted on each outboard wing rib. One left, one
on the right. My question, should I use shielded on the wires that pass
through the wing ribs to supply power .
Also, I am using the EXP 2 Bus. Where do I pick up power for the engine
instruments? As far as I can tell there are only 2 terminals marked
'instruments'. I have 6 gauges that need power. L-R fuel, fuel press, oil
pres, oil temp, etc. I am considering using the master switch feature on the
circuit board rather than an external one. I have done an archive search and
got no returns on the EXP bus. Any opinions, suggestions ,etc. is greatly
appreciated.
Bill Griffin
RV6 tip up ,IO320 ,Rose fuel inj. ,Aymar Demuth
Balto. MD Rv6238(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rollin Young" <rollin.young(at)acsalaska.net> |
I was looking at "N" numbers tonight and see that N 220 is available (it
says deregistered which usually means it is available).
Might be fun for someone to have a low N number that is also the planes top
airspeed (I am only planing on going 196).
Rollin, RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shield strobe power wires/ EXP2 bus |
Hi Bill,
I have the same set up and my answers to your questions are below:
> Hey folks,
> I have my Whelen power packs mounted on each outboard wing rib. One left,
one
> on the right. My question, should I use shielded on the wires that pass
> through the wing ribs to supply power .
Not needed. I used 18 AWG Tefzel wire and have no radio interference
from my strobes.
> Also, I am using the EXP 2 Bus. Where do I pick up power for the engine
> instruments? As far as I can tell there are only 2 terminals marked
> 'instruments'. I have 6 gauges that need power. L-R fuel, fuel press, oil
> pres, oil temp, etc.
I used a couple of terminal strips for mine. Got them at radio shack.
They are insulated and I mounted them on the sub-panel so I can get to them
if I ever need to add a wire. Power the terminal strips from the EXP2 bus.
One terminal strip powers the instruments and the other terminal strip
powers the instrument lights. Also, I went ahead and got the Indicator
module from Control Vision that goes with and compliments the EXP2. It has
a dimmer switch for the lights built in.
>I am considering using the master switch feature on the
> circuit board rather than an external one.
As long as your Alternator is not rated at more than 40 Amps you are OK.
Mine was 45 Amps so I went with the external master.
Happy Building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
I have a few spare parts for sale:
Electric Elevator Trim Kit. Unused, in box. Purchased around 1995. This is
the model with the electric gauge for trim position, not the lights. I went
with manual trim. $120
Throttle cable, friction type, standard RV-6 length designed to be used with
the centre console. The plastic coating is chafed a bit from rubbing on the
firewall during test fittings but otherwise its new and unused. I mounted my
controls on the panel itself and needed longer cables.
$25
Mixture cable, vernier type, same condition. $25
Curt
cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca
204 958 2859 eve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | EI FP-5L installation |
I'm about to install my Electronics International FP-5L fuel
pressure/flow instrument and I'd like to know how people have been
plumbing the transducers.
I've got Airflow Performance fuel injection (with the boost pump in the
cockpit per plans) and I'm thinking of putting the flow transducer low
on the engine side of the firewall between the bulkhead fitting and the
mechanical fuel pump. The pressure transducer would mount higher on the
firewall on Van's transducer manifold. Does this sound right?
I'd love to see pics of anyone's similar installation.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
OK, I am convinced. Where can these be purchased? When you say Skybolt,
are you reffering to the Skybolt aircraft?
Ain't it GREAT to get such knowledge and depth of ideas that are actually
proven out off of this list? Time to contribute.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 (N616TB Reserved)
Installing instrument panel and about to receive engine. Will fly next
summer for sure!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: More camloc stuff
>
> Good post, Bob. This is exactly my set up, and experience with Skybolt.
> This led me to my initial post. Another post said that A couple hundred
> dollars on camlocs (if you do the whole cowl in camlocs, not necessary as
> Bob pointed out) is a drop in the bucket compared to the 40, 50, or 60K
you
> have in the plane. I'm glad I went with the camlocs on the top. Probably
a
> 4 hour job to rip out the hinges and replace with camlocs. Also one note,
> these are not Camloc brand fasteners. Skybolt has their own brand, and
the
> quality is very, very good. So much to say that it appears to be superior
> than Camloc brand. I have the phillips variety (larger heads with
> countersunk washers) and I can't see how they could be stripped. Very
hard
> alluminum or stainless if that is what they are.
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More camloc stuff
>
>
> > Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> > etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> > sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
>
> Great, fantastic customer support. You can talk to one of their salesman
> and he will walk you through the steps. He will also explain what you
need
> and why. If you need extra parts, they ship real fast! In some cases
will
> not charge for broken parts (parts that I broke).
>
> Spacing; space them so that it looks even on both sides of the cowl, 4"
for
> me would not work geometrically. My spacing is about 3.6890", no
fiberglass
> puckering.
>
> I would rather use the piano hinge method, but could not make it work. I
> was spending 2-3 hours each time I put on the top cowl. Now it takes
about
> 2-3 minutes. I only used the camlocs for the top cowl; piano hinges for
> everthing else.
>
> Installing camlocs is more time consuming than installing the piano hinge,
> but it is easier to mate the cowl to the fueslage with camlocs, as they
> have some spacing leeway, and the piano hinge has none.
>
> Recommendation, if you can make the piano hinge work, go with that. If
you
> don't want to take a chance on having to redo the piano hinge like I had
to,
> then go with camlocs initially.
>
> Life is great.
>
> Bob Busick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More camloc stuff |
Skybolt Fasteners (www.skybolt.com). 800-223-1963
Ken
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> OK, I am convinced. Where can these be purchased? When you say Skybolt,
> are you reffering to the Skybolt aircraft?
>
> Ain't it GREAT to get such knowledge and depth of ideas that are actually
> proven out off of this list? Time to contribute.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 (N616TB Reserved)
> Installing instrument panel and about to receive engine. Will fly next
> summer for sure!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More camloc stuff
>
> >
> > Good post, Bob. This is exactly my set up, and experience with Skybolt.
> > This led me to my initial post. Another post said that A couple hundred
> > dollars on camlocs (if you do the whole cowl in camlocs, not necessary as
> > Bob pointed out) is a drop in the bucket compared to the 40, 50, or 60K
> you
> > have in the plane. I'm glad I went with the camlocs on the top. Probably
> a
> > 4 hour job to rip out the hinges and replace with camlocs. Also one note,
> > these are not Camloc brand fasteners. Skybolt has their own brand, and
> the
> > quality is very, very good. So much to say that it appears to be superior
> > than Camloc brand. I have the phillips variety (larger heads with
> > countersunk washers) and I can't see how they could be stripped. Very
> hard
> > alluminum or stainless if that is what they are.
> >
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: More camloc stuff
> >
> >
> >
> > > Any comments on the quality of their kits, post-sales customer support,
> > > etc. would be welcome. Also, is the 4" spacing they recommend
> > > sufficient to prevent puckering of the fiberglass between camlocs?
> >
> > Great, fantastic customer support. You can talk to one of their salesman
> > and he will walk you through the steps. He will also explain what you
> need
> > and why. If you need extra parts, they ship real fast! In some cases
> will
> > not charge for broken parts (parts that I broke).
> >
> > Spacing; space them so that it looks even on both sides of the cowl, 4"
> for
> > me would not work geometrically. My spacing is about 3.6890", no
> fiberglass
> > puckering.
> >
> > I would rather use the piano hinge method, but could not make it work. I
> > was spending 2-3 hours each time I put on the top cowl. Now it takes
> about
> > 2-3 minutes. I only used the camlocs for the top cowl; piano hinges for
> > everthing else.
> >
> > Installing camlocs is more time consuming than installing the piano hinge,
> > but it is easier to mate the cowl to the fueslage with camlocs, as they
> > have some spacing leeway, and the piano hinge has none.
> >
> > Recommendation, if you can make the piano hinge work, go with that. If
> you
> > don't want to take a chance on having to redo the piano hinge like I had
> to,
> > then go with camlocs initially.
> >
> > Life is great.
> >
> > Bob Busick
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Preston" <dprestonsr1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Purchase of RV-6A |
Hope I am not doing something against policy. I have not used this
listing before. Interested in nice RV-6A. $65K max. Building 7A but
can't wait. Please email details to dprestonsr1(at)home.com.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
Birmingham, AL
7A - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EI FP-5L installation |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
11/07/2001 11:11:19 AM
Hi Ken,
I have the same equipment in my -4. I have the fuel flow transducer
mounted on the engine side of the firewall about 1/3 of the way up from the
bottom. Fuel coming from the output side of the mechanical fuel pump
passes through the transducer on its way to the fuel servo. The pressure
transducer is also mounted engine side of the firewall, in the upper 1/3.
So far everything works great.
Dean Pichon
Painted and flying!
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | Ken Balch |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 11/07/01 09:50 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: EI FP-5L installation
|
I'm about to install my Electronics International FP-5L fuel
pressure/flow instrument and I'd like to know how people have been
plumbing the transducers.
I've got Airflow Performance fuel injection (with the boost pump in the
cockpit per plans) and I'm thinking of putting the flow transducer low
on the engine side of the firewall between the bulkhead fitting and the
mechanical fuel pump. The pressure transducer would mount higher on the
firewall on Van's transducer manifold. Does this sound right?
I'd love to see pics of anyone's similar installation.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
installing engine stuff
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI FP-5L installation |
Hi Dean,
Any pics of your installation?
Ken
pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
>
> Hi Ken,
>
> I have the same equipment in my -4. I have the fuel flow transducer
> mounted on the engine side of the firewall about 1/3 of the way up from the
> bottom. Fuel coming from the output side of the mechanical fuel pump
> passes through the transducer on its way to the fuel servo. The pressure
> transducer is also mounted engine side of the firewall, in the upper 1/3.
> So far everything works great.
>
> Dean Pichon
> Painted and flying!
>
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> | | Ken Balch |
> | | |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
> | | ronics.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 11/07/01 09:50 AM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | rv-list |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> |
|
> | To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
|
> | cc:
|
> | bcc:
|
> | Subject: RV-List: EI FP-5L installation
|
>
>
> I'm about to install my Electronics International FP-5L fuel
> pressure/flow instrument and I'd like to know how people have been
> plumbing the transducers.
>
> I've got Airflow Performance fuel injection (with the boost pump in the
> cockpit per plans) and I'm thinking of putting the flow transducer low
> on the engine side of the firewall between the bulkhead fitting and the
> mechanical fuel pump. The pressure transducer would mount higher on the
> firewall on Van's transducer manifold. Does this sound right?
>
> I'd love to see pics of anyone's similar installation.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> installing engine stuff
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
> **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
> confidential business information. It may not be copied
> without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please contact the sender as soon as possible and
> delete the material from any computer.****
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Hi Don,
The bearing are new and still stiff, so what you encountered is very common.
As long as they are smooth without binding you will be ok.
Glad to see you are getting close.
I may be in your neck of the woods at Bell during early December. I would
love to be able to come by, meet you face to face, and check out your baby
if you are going to be around then.
Mike Robertson
>From: Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: elevator balance
>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:30:13 -0600
>
>
>I drilled holes in the lead on the RH elevator to balance.
>
>The LH has the trim cable + the cover + all the cover screws.
>
>I think I should remove the cable & install the cover, but the real world
>is the cable add a bunch of drag.
>
>What did you guys do?
>
>Also, when I torqued the pivot bolts the assembly was do longer drag
>free. It is smooth just stops if any force is stoppedon it. Is this
>normal??
>
>
>Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
>Arlington, Tx
>*******************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I'm interested in our collective thoughts about the suitability of the O-235
to the RV-9A. From reading Van's web pages it seems to me that climb
performance suffers, but top speed is pretty good. Fuel economy should be
exceptional.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A (flying 15 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroelectric Bible to borrow? |
Hi to the listers -
Does anyone have a copy of 'Lectric Bob's Aeroelectric Bible I might be able
to borrow for a month or two? He is between editions - sold out of the old
one and not finished with the new. My 8 QB fuselage is coming soon and I'd
like to get started planning the electrical system. Happy to pay postage
both ways or pick it up in the Bay Area.
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
615-293-1003
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'twenzel@heartland-software.com'" ,
"'bj034(at)lafn.org'" ,
"'ssoule(at)pfclaw.com'""'RV-List Digest Server'"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Update on Vans Amp Gauge |
Folks,
to update eveyone who has been inputting on this one, as well as lettling
Van's know something is strange with their amp gauges.
I ordered another new amp gauge from them, and it behaves identical to the
first one.
When hooked up as per their schematic, once master sw comes on (with inst sw
off) the fuel gauges also come on (I have their old style isopro fuel
gauges).
I then left both shunt leads attached to amp gauge, and disconnected + & -
from it . With the master on, the amp gauge + reads 6.75 V . If I reattach
it to the inst + buss the fuel gauges come on, and the V at amp gauge +
reads 2.61V. None of the other gauges seem to be able to respond at this low
voltage.
Both old and new gauges do this, yet the ohm meter reads infinite between
the shunt side and the power/gnd side of them.
So it is the gauge that allows some V leakage bypassing the inst. power sw.
The other problem I had was that the Vans tach, amp, and MAP gauges all go
full boat when the radio is keyed. This only happens with the king97a; my
other radio, garmin 190 gps/com, doesn't cause this. And it doesn't happen
if I turn the off the radio (K97) but leave the audio panel on. This happens
independently of whether the amp gauge is in the circuit, which is contrary
to what I had previously thought. So I'm guessing that somehow RF from the
King is whakkydoodling those gauges. Any thoughts on how to fix it? It has
a standard A/C antenna mounted on aft turtledeck.
Anybody care to comment?
thx in advance
Wheeler
wnorth(at)sdccd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Bible to borrow? |
Try ordering one from the Builders Bookstore. I think he's got them in
stock and he also a fellow RV builder and supporter.
http://buildersbooks.com/electrical_systems1.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroelectric Bible to borrow?
>
> Hi to the listers -
>
> Does anyone have a copy of 'Lectric Bob's Aeroelectric Bible I might be
able
> to borrow for a month or two? He is between editions - sold out of the
old
> one and not finished with the new. My 8 QB fuselage is coming soon and
I'd
> like to get started planning the electrical system. Happy to pay postage
> both ways or pick it up in the Bay Area.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
> 615-293-1003
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear leg fairings |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
In recent posts about some well used RVs, the owners reported on things that
needed maintenance etc. I am interested in some tips on gear leg and
intersection fairings. I am in the process of fitting Van's fiberglass
fairings to my short gear RV-4 and could use some advice regarding a
faring/gear interface that has proven to maintain alignment and has survived
many hours of operations. My old fairings are single piece glass/epoxy
molded off an original Van's metal faring blank, but they are a short cord
without pressure recovery. These fairings have held up well, but I have had
no luck keeping them positioned reliability to the gear leg. The last
method I used was a .040 Al 'T' popped and pro-sealed to the top of the
fairing and clamped to the leg. The 1/32" closure pin at the trailing edge
of the fairing was pushed into a locating hole in the fuselage to set the
rotation angle. The Al 'T' was prone to crack between the clamp and the
faring, and the pin would wear out the hole. The new Van,s farings use a
1/16" pin which is more flexible and less likely to stabilize the fairing.
I have the plane up, off the gear, and am ready to anchor the faring down so
that I can lay up the intersection cuffs.
How to anchor? Top or top and bottom?
What about the use of foam to hold in place(temp. or perm.)? I would like
to be able to remove the fairing for gear maintenance.
Should I make the intersection cuffs with the weight off or on the
wheels(fairing spread at the ends when weight on)?
Anything else?
Thanks in advance.
Respond on or/and off list. TNX P.S. I have the Van's plans.
Gary (Oregon)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sandhill Crane Bird Strike |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
For those of you who don't regularly check Doug Reeves' web site, I
recommend you do so today.
http://www.vansaircraft.net
There is an amazing and scary picture of a Littlefield, Texas based RV-6
tail, after an encounter with a sandhill crane. I wish Dana would give
us a few details, like how did this plane fly with the whole right side
of the horizontal stabilizer wadded up like tin foil and with the
elevator severely bent.
I always had the least confidence in the tail pieces, based on eyeball
engineering, when building my airplane. Harmon and F-1 Rocket experience
and pictures like this, which seems to show the basic structure intact
after a horrendous blow, certainly help my confidence in Van's
engineering.
Laird - Red Tailed Hawk
Dana - Sandhill Crane
The ante is definitely being upped. Not that many bigger birds. Andean
Condor?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
Group
Caps shipped today, all but a couple. I will be in contact with those that
didn't, so if you do not get an e-mail from me your in luck! Thanks
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Sandhill Crane Bird Strike |
snip
Laird - Red Tailed Hawk
Dana - Sandhill Crane
The ante is definitely being upped. Not that many bigger birds. Andean
Condor?
snip
I'll leave the Condor for someone else (although there are some here in SoCal).
I'm not interested in playing this game anymore ;-) I've done my share......
Laird
Hawk Killer
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Update on Vans Amp Gauge |
wheeler
i just went checked my panel, as i have all of vans gauges. i am not
expereincing the problem you are having. when i turn the gauges switch off,
every gauge goes off. the only thing i noticed is that if the cht or egt
sensors are not connected the gauges peg out on the high side, once the
probes are hooked up, they go to a normal reading. but everything else checks
ok. you might have a wire touching somewhere you don't know about yet. i did
have to order a new electric tack and sender, because the tack was not
working and i didn't know if it was the sender or the gauge, vans sent me
both at no charge, and asked that i send the good part back once i found out
what was bad. nice folks those guys at vans.
good luck
scott
tampa
rv6a painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Update on Vans Amp Gauge |
steve
maybe you just got a bad one. i have seen mine go from a fresh battery
reading 14 volts to a dead battery which reads 6 volts. all the gauges are
still working, but the battery want start the engine, or even turn it over.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sandhill Crane Bird Strike |
Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Good thing pterodactyls are extinct!
>
These are big birds. I used to sneak into their formations with an ultralight
when I lived in New Mexico. Sure wouldn't want to go head to head into them
in the RV.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
I recently purchased the Van's PREVIEW PLANS SET for the RV9a.
I am in the latter stages of the fuselage, but it is a good item to
have.
As mentioned by some in earlier postings, the part number to plan page
to 'how the part is supplied' is a very useful index.
In addition, I have found that many errors have been corrected in the
plans. i.e radius location measurements on drawing 29 for f652 the upper
baggage bulkhead are wrong on my full sized plans, but correct in the
'little guys' in the preview set. Page 29 did not make sense and I
fretted for an hour, trying to think it through. I will consult the
preview plans more quickly, in the future to see if there are updates.
Barry POte RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sandhill Crane Bird Strike |
> There is an amazing and scary picture of a Littlefield, Texas based RV-6
> tail, after an encounter with a sandhill crane. I wish Dana would give
> us a few details, like how did this plane fly with the whole right side
> of the horizontal stabilizer wadded up like tin foil and with the
> elevator severely bent.
I hate to tell you guys this; but, this airplane is not in Texas. It's in
Kentucky.
It belongs to a local who keeps it at Pat Patterson's field near
Shelbyville, KY.
I'm not sure how Dana got the picture unless it came from Van's. Pat sent a
photo there. I have another view of the stabilizer that will really scare
you. What Dana
has is the good side. The bottom is far worse.
Oh, yeah. Somebody mentioned this being a California airplane that was
crashed some time ago. Yep. That's the one. I helped Pat rebuild it. It
was
really looking good before the bird hit it. We aren't sure what kind of
bird; but,
we're thinking it may have been a duck. The owner said he knew he'd been
hit;
but, the airplane handled just fine all the way to landing. He was in
downwind
when he was hit.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
Does anyone know a source for the two fittings that screw into the Sigmatek
Vacumn Pump for attaching the two hoses?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thought on stiff, quiet floor |
> I have an idea of filling the spaces between the angles on the floor with
> 3/4" thick end-grain balsa blocks, stuck down with a thin layer of epoxy,
> and then a sheet of aluminum, maybe no more than .016 epoxied on top of
> that.
> Does the idea have any merit, do you think?
Sounds flammable and fluid absorbent. If it gets wet it will stay heavy for
a long time and create those interesting moldy odors until you dig it out.
Probably the worst thing you could put down there if you get a fuel leak or,
God forbid, have a fire. Just one opinion, worth what you paid for it.
Here's what I did:
Many builders have expressed how the side by side RV's are quieter and have
less vibration when the floorboards are stiffened. The floor is divided up
into five sections. I built a strong 063 deck out of my center section from
the firewall to the spar. The large plate of 063 has 3/4 X 3/4 angle riveted
on it's edges that fits between the angle stiffening the floor. The new
angle has rows of nutplates on them so that the deck attaches with screws
that go in sideways from the next bay on each side. The result is like a
strong box frame up the middle of the floor. At the front a custom small
battery box holds my 625 jetski battery and the back makes a solid place for
the custom fuel selector valve platform to come down to. This smaller
platform is also quite beefy as I plan to base a Ram-mount system there to
hold a future installation of a moving map computer. I'm going to wait till
I need it as I'm hoping for some more improvements. I want a removable
computer half the size of current laptops but sunlight readable, email
friendly, and spreadsheet capable. In the middle of the floor platform lie
dual Halon fire extinguishers, one for the cabin, the other plumbed to the
engine.
I don't think my floor boards are going to vibrate, lots of weight on them.
Be sure to remember to tie the angle to the wing spar once the wings are on.
This is a small detail on one of the plans that would be very easy to miss.
I wonder how many RV6's are flying around without them.
Product Report:
From Orndorf the floor insulating material is very good. It passed my
backyard flame test. I like the density and it fits well. I will install it
with velcro so that it can be cleaned once and awhile.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | User way point Garmin95 |
I have been creating user way point using Lat Long for getting around the nuc
plants and B space. Has anyone stored these user way points in a route. I
have no problem with regular waypoints. For some reason I dont get a USE. GO
to works fine. A page # in the book would be appreciated. Thanks ahead.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sandhill Crane Bird Strike |
Man I messed up on the story on this one. I read my Email from Dana and
being up all night and tired I put out some erroneous information. forgive my
hast in forewarding the information. Sorry. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
Try Aircraft Spruce Catalog, page 109 in this years book.
>From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings
>Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 05:10:49 -0600
>
>
>Does anyone know a source for the two fittings that screw into the Sigmatek
>Vacumn Pump for attaching the two hoses?
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Charlesww Webber , Colin Koebel ,
Gary Glaser , greg ,
irish1wild3d , jaugilas ,
"mike.nellis(at)mcd.com" ,
"Pegit2(at)aol.com" , shakib a qutob ,
sue gregor ,
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | [Fwd: Flight Path] |
EarlStark(at)aol.com wrote:
> http://www.usatoday.com/graphics/news/gra/gflightpath2/flash.htm
>
> Copy the address to your browser.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <komisar(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Tail for Parts |
Joe,
Are the tail parts all there, complete. If so, what is your BOTTOM dollar?
Where are you located?
Thanks,
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV 6 Tail for Parts
>
>
> I have a pre punched RV 6 tail that is still in the box that can be used
> for parts. I don't want to see it wasted. I bought an orphan project
> that had wing kit and two tail kits.
>
> Joe.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Isolator Mounts |
Austin--
There are two problems with trying get the "correct" torque on your
engine mounting bolts: (1) when the spacer "bottoms out" between the
two "muffins", that's it; (2) then, you need to adjust the castellated
nut so the cotter pin will fit thru the bolt hole.
So, snug up the nut to the "bottom", adjust slightly for cotter pin,
insert cotter pin, finish rest of plane and go flyin'.
Boyd.
Austin wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> What is the proper torque value for the Barry Mounts ?
> The manual gives none but says it is easy to do because you just tighten
> until the spacer tubes bottom out and stop you.
> But in BIngelis's book, he says this is WRONG,WRONG, since you are not
> supposed to squish the s*** out of the rubber mounts since this defeats the
> design function....I have looked everywhere but can't find a
> number.......what have others done ??
> Austin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I need to add a little proseal over some shop rivet heads partially metal and
some proseal. You guys think it would be ok to add a blob?
Thanks Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
> In recent posts about some well used RVs, the owners reported on things
that
> needed maintenance etc. I am interested in some tips on gear leg and
> intersection fairings. I am in the process of fitting Van's fiberglass
> fairings to my short gear RV-4 and could use some advice regarding a
> faring/gear interface that has proven to maintain alignment and has
survived
> many hours of operations. My old fairings are single piece glass/epoxy
> molded off an original Van's metal faring blank, but they are a short cord
> without pressure recovery. These fairings have held up well, but I have
had
> no luck keeping them positioned reliability to the gear leg. The last
> method I used was a .040 Al 'T' popped and pro-sealed to the top of the
> fairing and clamped to the leg. The 1/32" closure pin at the trailing
edge
> of the fairing was pushed into a locating hole in the fuselage to set the
> rotation angle. The Al 'T' was prone to crack between the clamp and the
> faring, and the pin would wear out the hole. The new Van,s farings use a
> 1/16" pin which is more flexible and less likely to stabilize the
fairing.
>
> I have the plane up, off the gear, and am ready to anchor the faring down
so
> that I can lay up the intersection cuffs.
>
> How to anchor? Top or top and bottom?
>
> What about the use of foam to hold in place(temp. or perm.)? I would like
> to be able to remove the fairing for gear maintenance.
>
> Should I make the intersection cuffs with the weight off or on the
> wheels(fairing spread at the ends when weight on)?
>
> Anything else?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Respond on or/and off list. TNX P.S. I have the Van's plans.
>
> Gary (Oregon)
>
Gary:
I am right in the middle of this project on my RV-4 (long gear legs).
According to the gear fairing plans, they are anchored using a hose clamp at
the top of the fairing that clamps down on a notch that is cut out at the
top of the fairing. I assume the bottom is held in place with it's
intersection of the wheel pant (I haven't gotten that far yet. I did align
the gear fairing with the weight off the gear as per Van's instructions. I
am trying to mold the clay now for the top intersection fairing.
I have a 1993 flying RV-4 (short gear) with Van's old style 2-piece alum
fairings. They have never moved and seem fine after 600 hours.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
One of our MN Wing members has his RV-3 for sale.
Doug Weiler
Details:
Do you know of anyone that's looking for an RV-3? I have mine for sale
for $19,500. O-290 full inverted fuel and oil, all wing mods done.
Dan Thompson
Blue Earth MN
507-526-2914
dat(at)bevcomm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
In a message dated 11/6/2001 6:46:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nauga(at)brick.net writes:
>
> Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
> the answers to my gascolator questions
> were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
> is not the lowest straight-path point in the
> fuel system, what's the difference between it
> and any other fuel filter?
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
Most good gascolators can pass fuel but not water
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
>
>Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
>the answers to my gascolator questions
>were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
>is not the lowest straight-path point in the
>fuel system, what's the difference between it
>and any other fuel filter?
>
>Dave Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
I'm certainly no expert, but I think the difference is that the gascolator
will still flow fuel after swallowing a bunch of water. Paper element fuel
filters apparently may stop flowing fuel after the paper swells up from the
water. I'm told some other types of filter may be OK with water. So, if
you want to use a filter, I suggest you do some sort of test to show
whether it is OK with water or not.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Tail for Parts |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
Marty,
Yep, all parts. Several responses so far but no offers. I'm asking $500
or less. Maybe trade for a working DG or horizon. Call me.
Joe
Canton, Oh
330-854-1213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
"RV List"
| Subject: | 66AP 40 hour report - long |
Having just completed the 40 hours on my -6A, I thought it might be helpful
and/or interesting to share a few things with the list. First, these planes
are waaaayyy cool, those of you building keep chugging along, it can't be
repeated enough that it is worth it.
At 8 hours I took the exhaust off, and Larry V. reworked them to try to get
a little more clearance in the cowl exit area. I did this during the class
B grounding, so no time was lost. Also, the left ball joint was at a funny
angle, which caused it to be at the limit of its travel. Several
adjustments have been made to the pipe supports.
At around 15 hours, I removed the nose gear to replace the standard AN bolt
with a close tolerance AN bolt. I didn't like the "clicking" I would hear
when the plane was rocked side to side on the ground. At the same time, I
noticed that the fiberglass nose gear fairing was a little too long, and was
beginning to crack just above where it is clamped to the nose gear. The fix
was to grind a little off the aft/top end. Apparently, during flexing, the
gear effectively gets shorter, jamming the fairing.
Several adjustments have been made to the idle mixture on the Airflow
Performance FI system, still need to lean it a little more - symptom:
afterfiring on throttle reductions and loping idle.
Leaning tests show that I can reduce fuel consumption by about .5 gph by
tuning the injectors. This test is where EGT peak is compared to fuel flow
for each cylinder, and I got a span of about .5 gph. I lean based on the
cylinder which leans at the highest fuel flow.
Cut one jumper wire that I missed during installation on the Century 2000
autopilot, which uncoupled the heading bug from the radio pointer. That is
truly a nice piece of equipment.
I went through the engine area, and put blobs of RTV everwhere it looked
liked something might be chafing, or thinking about it. Mainly this was
SCAT tubing.
No adjustments made to any flight controls, the elevator at cruise rides
maybe 1/8" down, trim neutral.
A balsa wood rudder trim was guessed correctly the first try, pure luck.
Next time spinner is off, I will dial down max RPM hard stop about 50 rpm or
so.
Brake reservoir slopped some juice out during inverted flight, need to put
some sort of condom on it.
Speed run made at 7500MSL, full throttle, full RPM, 4 directions showed a
TAS of 180.7 knots, or about 208 mph (this speed was calculated from the
four ground speeds recorded using vector equations). I have two boarding
steps, two Comant bent whips, transponder and GPS antennae hanging out, so
this speed is nicely surprising.
About 100 landings so far, the 6A's are really a dream to land, only about
one crummy landing so far (my excuse was strong crosswinds).
I'm really looking forward to giving my patient wife a ride this weekend,
kids are right behind her!
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 40 hours!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 66AP 40 hour report - long |
Brake reservoir slopped some juice out during inverted flight, need to put
some sort of condom on it.
-----------------
I'm embarrassed to say that I researched this topic after installing the
inverted oil system on my -8. Trojan makes a polyurethane condom that is
unaffected by our brake fluid. The fluid will attack latex (swells to an
impressive size) and vinyl (gets brittle). The only problem with the Trojan
is that it only comes in a lubricated form, so you might want to clean it
off. Note that it's not good to let people see you cleaning these, or they
think you're really cheap :-)
BTW- nice report.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours)- FOR SALE
RV-3, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a presure switch |
Scott
There is a pressure switch close to what you are asking for.
1/8"-27 Dryseal thread
term."P"-"S" NC,opens at 1.0 psi
term "P"-"I" NO, closes at 2.5 - 8.0 psi
Standard Ignition Part Number PS-64
GM Part Number 3986857
This is the longer style, similar to the old small block Chevy single wire
switches.
There is another switch which is shorter, but with 1/4" pipe thread and the
same
wiring configuration. Standard Ignition # PS-136, GM #1249945 or # 25500673.
Application is 70 - 79 General Motors and Triumph Products. They are three
wire oil pressure / choke switches. I am unsure of the availability. Let me
know if you have no luck locating one.
I would still like to know what you are using the switch for.
George Meketa
RV8QB installing wings Saturday A.M.
-> The local automotive shops here are unable to locate a pressure switch
for
> me. It's 1/8th NPT, NC, 0.5psi.
> Anyone know where I can get one?
> thanks,
> Scott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
In a message dated 11/7/01 3:12:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv6bldr(at)home.com
writes:
> Does anyone know a source for the two fittings that screw into the Sigmatek
> Vacuum Pump for attaching the two hoses?
The ones you probably need are the 1K8-6-10 ($56.95 at Chief, $68.95 at ACS)
for the outflow and the 1K1-6-10 for the intake ($26.50 at Chief, $29.50 at
ACS). Wag Aero formerly carried these P/Ns at a substantial savings, but
they are conspicuous in their absence in their latest catalogs. It might be
worth a call to them. The price of these things is outrageous because
they're two piece dip brazed, today made by one supplier (Airborne) and only
in small batches.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Happy Birthday Marines |
November 10th will mark the 226th birthday of the U. S. Marine Corps. The
event is normally observed with fancy dress balls and serious libation.
Happy Birthday to all Marines, and "Thank You!" for our freedom.
Karen & Larry Gooding
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop Spinner |
List: Anyone have a Templet available for making the cuts on a spinner
being used with a Hartzell Prop?
I checked the archives but no luck.
Tom in Ohio
RV6-A looks like a Plane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Vansairforce"
| Subject: | Engine Baffles... |
Anybody made a better mouse trap? I am looking to make my own engine
baffles and am looking for any templates that builders have made that may be
better than Van's, or that are simply in an electronic format that I can
take down to the local Kinko's and have printed off...
Exhaust went on tonight and fit perfectly...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
This is some great information. Takes the guess work out on figuring part
numbers! I will check to see if Wag Aero has any left. I couldn't believe
the price of these things! Not much to them, but the design does lead to
longer pump life, so I guess it evens out in the long run.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings
>
> In a message dated 11/7/01 3:12:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6bldr(at)home.com
> writes:
>
>
> > Does anyone know a source for the two fittings that screw into the
Sigmatek
> > Vacuum Pump for attaching the two hoses?
>
> The ones you probably need are the 1K8-6-10 ($56.95 at Chief, $68.95 at
ACS)
> for the outflow and the 1K1-6-10 for the intake ($26.50 at Chief, $29.50
at
> ACS). Wag Aero formerly carried these P/Ns at a substantial savings, but
> they are conspicuous in their absence in their latest catalogs. It might
be
> worth a call to them. The price of these things is outrageous because
> they're two piece dip brazed, today made by one supplier (Airborne) and
only
> in small batches.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles... |
Bill,
I used Van's baffle kit on my -6 , 0-320 and it fit very well. I would hate
to think about making them from scratch! Even with the preformed kit, I had
them off and on about 40 times just tweeking them to the fit I wanted. If
you do roll your own, the back two pieces will be the most complex. Try to
get some drawings that have the actual degrees indicated for the bends. I
also used the small #6 washers under the shop heads of the pop rivets that
hold the baffle fabric on and highly recommend it.
No longer baffled about the baffles,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
; Vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: Engine Baffles...
>
> Anybody made a better mouse trap? I am looking to make my own engine
> baffles and am looking for any templates that builders have made that may
be
> better than Van's, or that are simply in an electronic format that I can
> take down to the local Kinko's and have printed off...
>
> Exhaust went on tonight and fit perfectly...
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles... |
I have to complement Bill . . . he belongs to the group of builders that
wants to end up with a great machine . . . but do as much $ savings as
practical. Having said this, I echo the comment below. I used Van's kit on
my 8A and wouldn't dream of doing this
(*&@# from scratch. Just my two
cents.
Good luck, Bill.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Baffles...
>
> Bill,
>
> I used Van's baffle kit on my -6 , 0-320 and it fit very well. I would
hate
> to think about making them from scratch! Even with the preformed kit, I
had
> them off and on about 40 times just tweeking them to the fit I wanted. If
> you do roll your own, the back two pieces will be the most complex. Try
to
> get some drawings that have the actual degrees indicated for the bends. I
> also used the small #6 washers under the shop heads of the pop rivets that
> hold the baffle fabric on and highly recommend it.
>
> No longer baffled about the baffles,
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
> To: Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com ; Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com
> ; Vansairforce
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Baffles...
>
>
> >
> > Anybody made a better mouse trap? I am looking to make my own engine
> > baffles and am looking for any templates that builders have made that
may
> be
> > better than Van's, or that are simply in an electronic format that I can
> > take down to the local Kinko's and have printed off...
> >
> > Exhaust went on tonight and fit perfectly...
> >
> > Thanks...
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > Colorado Springs, CO
> > RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Engine Baffles... |
Bill,
I made my own baffles from Van's prints. I Glued the prints to poster board,
cut them out and bent them up to check the fit to the engine. I have to say my
templates fit better than the baffle kit's van's was producing at the time. I
have since used Van's kit on a couple of installs and find that it fits pretty
good with the rear baffle behind #3 cylinder the current problem spot. Van's
prints dont have all the little attachment parts on them so you need a copy of
the instructions that come with the baffle kit. It took me about 6 hours to
make all the baffle parts
Gary
Bill VonDane wrote:
> Anybody made a better mouse trap? I am looking to make my own engine
> baffles and am looking for any templates that builders have made that may be
> better than Van's, or that are simply in an electronic format that I can
> take down to the local Kinko's and have printed off...
>
> Exhaust went on tonight and fit perfectly...
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles... |
If you still value your sanity, Don't do it, Bill!!!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
; "Vansairforce"
Subject: RV-List: Engine Baffles...
Anybody made a better mouse trap? I am looking to make my own engine
baffles and am looking for any templates that builders have made that may be
better than Van's, or that are simply in an electronic format that I can
take down to the local Kinko's and have printed off...
Exhaust went on tonight and fit perfectly...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Happy Birthday Marines |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/08/2001 08:09:26 AM
Semper Fi Larry !! and happy birthday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Spinner |
tom
can you wait a couple days, i'm leaving for arkansas for a couple days, but
would be glad to make one for you when i got back.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More bird strike pictures |
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Pat Patterson sent me (3) more pictures and some updated information of
the recent 6A bird strike in Kentucky. Currently they think it was a
mallard duck.
http://www.vansaircraft.net
Best,
D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Speaking of pro-seal... I'm considering using a little to seal up the edge
of my canopy. Anyone know of, or have any negative comments or experiences
with pro-seal re-acting with the plexi-glass? Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: proseal
>
> I need to add a little proseal over some shop rivet heads partially metal
and
> some proseal. You guys think it would be ok to add a blob?
> Thanks Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
I'm switching over to an "IO-320" (converted by Ly-Con) will my current
gascolator work? What kind of pressures will I be running with my Bendix
fuel injection unit? What happens when one or two injectors get plugged? I
was told that the pressures will double, then quad-druple, is that true?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv-4 gascolator
>
> >
> >Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
> >the answers to my gascolator questions
> >were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
> >is not the lowest straight-path point in the
> >fuel system, what's the difference between it
> >and any other fuel filter?
> >
> >Dave Hyde
> >nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
> I'm certainly no expert, but I think the difference is that the gascolator
> will still flow fuel after swallowing a bunch of water. Paper element
fuel
> filters apparently may stop flowing fuel after the paper swells up from
the
> water. I'm told some other types of filter may be OK with water. So, if
> you want to use a filter, I suggest you do some sort of test to show
> whether it is OK with water or not.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
A gascolator works on the principal that water is heavier than gasoline. The
larger the volume of the reservoir, the more water it holds, but eventually,
if not drained, it will fill with water and allow the water to pass thru. That
is why we are taught to drain the tanks and gascolator before flight.
Most gascolators are just a reservoir ( to let the water settle out) with a
medium mess screen to filter out rocks and small children from your fuel
system. Take one apart you will see what I mean.
Garry "Casper"
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/6/2001 6:46:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> nauga(at)brick.net writes:
>
> >
> > Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
> > the answers to my gascolator questions
> > were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
> > is not the lowest straight-path point in the
> > fuel system, what's the difference between it
> > and any other fuel filter?
> >
> > Dave Hyde
> > nauga(at)brick.net
> >
>
> Most good gascolators can pass fuel but not water
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
Dave, I have done extensive long term testing with paper element filters. I
have talked to Wix filter engineers. Their findings are that their filters do
not stop water flowing thru them, nor do they stop gas flowing thru them, when
the element is saturated with water. My testing with Wix and Fram filters agree
with them. However, I wouldn't fly with any other brands as they may stop the
flow of gas when their element becomes saturated with water.
There was a thread on this subject earlier this year, check the archives.
Garry "Casper"
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >
> >Hit by a blinding flash of the obvious,
> >the answers to my gascolator questions
> >were in the archives. So...if the gascolator
> >is not the lowest straight-path point in the
> >fuel system, what's the difference between it
> >and any other fuel filter?
> >
> >Dave Hyde
> >nauga(at)brick.net
>
> I'm certainly no expert, but I think the difference is that the gascolator
> will still flow fuel after swallowing a bunch of water. Paper element fuel
> filters apparently may stop flowing fuel after the paper swells up from the
> water. I'm told some other types of filter may be OK with water. So, if
> you want to use a filter, I suggest you do some sort of test to show
> whether it is OK with water or not.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 66AP 40 hour report - long |
Congrats for making it to the magic, take the wife for a ride, mark and thanks
for the update. Here is a little secret, take your wife somewhere unique to go
shopping. BIG brownie points.
Garry "Casper"
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> Having just completed the 40 hours on my -6A, I thought it might be helpful
> and/or interesting to share a few things with the list. First, these planes
> are waaaayyy cool, those of you building keep chugging along, it can't be
> repeated enough that it is worth it.
>
> At 8 hours I took the exhaust off, and Larry V. reworked them to try to get
> a little more clearance in the cowl exit area. I did this during the class
> B grounding, so no time was lost. Also, the left ball joint was at a funny
> angle, which caused it to be at the limit of its travel. Several
> adjustments have been made to the pipe supports.
>
> At around 15 hours, I removed the nose gear to replace the standard AN bolt
> with a close tolerance AN bolt. I didn't like the "clicking" I would hear
> when the plane was rocked side to side on the ground. At the same time, I
> noticed that the fiberglass nose gear fairing was a little too long, and was
> beginning to crack just above where it is clamped to the nose gear. The fix
> was to grind a little off the aft/top end. Apparently, during flexing, the
> gear effectively gets shorter, jamming the fairing.
>
> Several adjustments have been made to the idle mixture on the Airflow
> Performance FI system, still need to lean it a little more - symptom:
> afterfiring on throttle reductions and loping idle.
>
> Leaning tests show that I can reduce fuel consumption by about .5 gph by
> tuning the injectors. This test is where EGT peak is compared to fuel flow
> for each cylinder, and I got a span of about .5 gph. I lean based on the
> cylinder which leans at the highest fuel flow.
>
> Cut one jumper wire that I missed during installation on the Century 2000
> autopilot, which uncoupled the heading bug from the radio pointer. That is
> truly a nice piece of equipment.
>
> I went through the engine area, and put blobs of RTV everwhere it looked
> liked something might be chafing, or thinking about it. Mainly this was
> SCAT tubing.
>
> No adjustments made to any flight controls, the elevator at cruise rides
> maybe 1/8" down, trim neutral.
>
> A balsa wood rudder trim was guessed correctly the first try, pure luck.
>
> Next time spinner is off, I will dial down max RPM hard stop about 50 rpm or
> so.
>
> Brake reservoir slopped some juice out during inverted flight, need to put
> some sort of condom on it.
>
> Speed run made at 7500MSL, full throttle, full RPM, 4 directions showed a
> TAS of 180.7 knots, or about 208 mph (this speed was calculated from the
> four ground speeds recorded using vector equations). I have two boarding
> steps, two Comant bent whips, transponder and GPS antennae hanging out, so
> this speed is nicely surprising.
>
> About 100 landings so far, the 6A's are really a dream to land, only about
> one crummy landing so far (my excuse was strong crosswinds).
>
> I'm really looking forward to giving my patient wife a ride this weekend,
> kids are right behind her!
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 40 hours!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
> Speaking of pro-seal... I'm considering using a little to seal up the edge
> of my canopy. Anyone know of, or have any negative comments or
experiences
> with pro-seal re-acting with the plexi-glass? Thanks,
Proseal won't hurt the plexi. Lots of people have used it around their
canopy.
For an alternative however that's clear instead of gray, search the archives
for "Lexel".
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
>
>I'm switching over to an "IO-320" (converted by Ly-Con) will my current
>gascolator work? What kind of pressures will I be running with my Bendix
>fuel injection unit? What happens when one or two injectors get plugged? I
>was told that the pressures will double, then quad-druple, is that true?
>
> Chuck
Chuck,
The gascolator should be installed before the engine driven pump, so I
don't think any potential pressure increase from plugged injectors is an
issue. If the electric pump is running when the injector gets plugged, the
pressure relief valve on the pump should prevent any increase in pressure
in the plumbing between the electric pump and the engine driven pump.
If the gascolator is installed between the electric pump and the engine
driven pump (most installations are like this), it must be able to handle
the pressure put out by the electric pump. This is probably higher than
the design pressure for gascolators that were designed with carburetors in
mind. So, I think you'll want to get either an Andair gascolator, or find
one used on a type certified aircraft with Bendix fuel injection. If you
use one from a type certified aircraft, study the installation to see what
pressures the gascolator is subjected to (i.e. is it installed before or
after the electric pump).
Take care,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | QB Shipping Containter in chicago area |
Can someone tell me how Vans ships the QB wings? Are they both in the
same container? How are they secured?
Would anyone in the Chicago area happen to have a reusable QB wing
shipping container?
I'm getting ready to move to Austin, TX and I'm finding that building a
crate to ship the Wings in is going to be a lot of work and if I can
entice someone to give up some materials for re-use, that would be even
better.
Thanks,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
Chuck--
My "normal" Bendix/RSA FI fuel pressure is 23 psi (21 - 25) but I've
seen a low of 19 and a high of 27 with no complaint from the engine.
Twice, while climbing (2,000 fpm/120 kts) in cold air, I've had the fuel
pressure drop below 17--turning on the boost pump for a few seconds
"cured" the "problem", if any, as I have no explanation for the pressure
drop. Any one???
There is argument about the gascolator location in a FI system. Some
say if you put the gascolator before the boost and engine pumps, the
suction can cause bubbles and vapor in the fuel lines. Others say that
if you put the gascolator between the boost and engine pump, the push
pressure from the boost pump can dislodge debris/water that had nicely
settled out. Personally, I'm not convinced that a gascolator serves any
real purpose in a RV, even tho I still have mine mounted low on the
firewall--but every year I make plans to take it out. Someday...
If you do have an injector plugged, you will see some increase in
pressure and the fuel computer will translate this as increased fuel
consumption. But as Mr. Horton noted, the relief valve in the boost
pump circuit will prevent any Oh! Oh! pressures.
To keep yout injectors clean, run some Marvel Mystery Oil (I know, I
know!) in your tanks every once in a while (and, maybe some TCP) and at
each annual soak them in "Hoppe's #9 Gun Cleaning Solvent" and blow em
out with compressed air.
Boyd
RV-Super 6
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
> I'm switching over to an "IO-320" (converted by Ly-Con) will my current
> gascolator work? What kind of pressures will I be running with my Bendix
> fuel injection unit? What happens when one or two injectors get plugged? I
> was told that the pressures will double, then quad-druple, is that true?
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
Hi-JEGS PHONE 1-800-3454545 PN720-2968-3/8NPT,1/2HOSE BARB=$10.99=HI FLOW
FUEL FITTINGS -REGARDS TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Is there anyone in New York that can help me find out if this place
exists, and if so, how I can get hold of somebody there...
PETER WILLIAMS ENTERPRISES
35 CROSBY ST #100B
NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10013-2635
Extensive Internet searches have turned up nothing...
Thanks!!
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 52 Msgs - 11/07/01 |
Well,
.14 mf capcitor didn't alter the amp gauge behavior one iota, at any
location.
any other ideas?
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
| Subject: | pro-seal-gascolator |
Speaking of pro seal, I would use RTV on the canopy, easier to apply.
I too would like to get rid of my gascolater, anybody flying without
one? On a normally aspirated engine that is.
Tom Rupe S/N 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry walker" <carrabellefl(at)hotmail.com> |
dc8mac(at)cs.com, AZEMB(at)aol.com, royce111(at)gtcom.net, evantsay(at)itri.org.tw,
fourengines(at)yahoo.com, gdudley(at)holli.com, gustin(at)tabletoptelephone.com,
jenniferlmercier(at)hotmail.com, kipilot(at)teleport.com, KT4AL(at)worldnet.att.net,
mluthi(at)compuserve.com, m_glanton(at)yahoo.com, tomnmoma(at)cs.com,
just4labor(at)aol.com, chestnutrose(at)gulf.net, NTFLIESFR8(at)aol.com,
patrickd(at)milberg.com, support(at)vansaircraft.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
Stingvet64(at)aol.com, samandwez(at)cs.com, maxzerba(at)hotmail.com,
simdude(at)worldnet.att.net, squawk177(at)yahoo.com, ssharff(at)earthlink.net,
Stakmac(at)aol.com, YEOCHRIE(at)worldnet.att.net, shaio.zerba(at)ramstein.af.mil
Read this folks
>-----Original Message-----
>From: McCleskey, Maurice
>Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 2:02 PM
>To: 'guccione(at)EagleGL.com'
>Cc: Choate, Lisa M; Rocha, Jimmy; Thomas, Leo
>Subject: FW: Chili cookoff
>
>
> >Notes From An Inexperienced Chili Taster Named FRANK, who was visiting
>Texas from the East Coast:
>Recently I was honored to be selected as a judge at a chili cook-off. The
>original person called in sick at the last moment and I happened to be
>standing there at the judge's table asking directions to the beer wagon
>when the call came. I was assured by the other two judges (NativeTexans)
>that the chili wouldn't be all that spicy, and besides, they told me I
>could have free beer during the tasting, so I accepted. Here are the
>scorecards from the event:
> >
> >Chili # 1: Mike's Maniac Mobster Monster Chili
> > JUDGE ONE: A little too heavy on tomato. Amusing kick.
> > JUDGE TWO: Nice, smooth tomato flavor. Very mild.
> FRANK: Holy shit, what the hell is this stuff? You could remove dried
>paint from your driveway. Took me two beers to put the flames out. I hope
>that's the worst one. These Texans are crazy.
> >
> > >Chili # 2: Arthur's Afterburner Chili
> >JUDGE ONE: Smoky, with a hint of pork. Slight Jalapeno tang.
> > JUDGE TWO: Exciting BBQ flavor, needs more peppers to be taken
>seriously.
> > FRANK: Keep this out of reach of children! I'm not sure what I am
>supposed to taste besides pain. I had to wave off two people who wanted
to
>give me the Heimlich maneuver. They had to rush in more beer when they
saw
>the look on my face.
> >
> >Chili # 3: Fred's Famous Burn Down the Barn Chili
> > JUDGE ONE: Excellent firehouse chili! Great kick. Needs more beans.
> > JUDGE TWO: A beanless chili, a bit salty, good use of red peppers.
> > FRANK: Call the EPA, I've located a uranium spill. My nose feels like I
>have been snorting Drano. Everyone knows the routine by now, get me more
>beer before I ignite. The Barmaid pounded me on the back; now my backbone
>is in the front part of my chest. I'm getting shit-faced from all the
>beer.
> >
> >Chili # 4: Bubba's Black Magic
> >JUDGE ONE: Black bean chili with almost no spice. Disappointing.
> > JUDGE TWO: Hint of lime in the black beans. Good side dish for fish or
> >other mild foods, not much of a chili.
> >FRANK: I felt something scraping across my tongue, but was unable to
>taste it, is it possible to burn-out taste buds? Sally, the barmaid, was
>standing behind me with fresh refills; that 300 lb. bitch is starting to
>look HOT, just like this nuclear waste I'm eating. Is chili an
>aphrodisiac?
> >
> >Chili # 5: Linda's Legal Lip Remover
> > JUDGE ONE: Meaty, strong chili. Cayenne peppers freshly ground, adding
>considerable kick. Very impressive.
> >JUDGE TWO: Chili using shredded beef; could use more tomato. Must admit
>the cayenne peppers make a strong statement.
> >>FRANK: My ears are ringing, sweat is pouring off my forehead and I can
>no longer focus my eyes. I farted and four people behind me needed
>paramedics.
> >
> >The contestant seemed offended when I told her that her chili had given
>me brain damage. Sally saved my tongue from bleeding by pouring beer
>directly on it from a pitcher. I wonder if I'm burning my lips off? It
>really pisses me off that the other judges asked me to stop screaming.
>Screw those rednecks!
> >
> > >Chili # 6: Vera's Very Vegetarian Variety
> > >JUDGE ONE: Thin yet bold vegetarian variety chili. Good balance of
>spice and peppers.
> > >JUDGE TWO: The best yet. Aggressive use of peppers, onions, and
garlic.
>Superb.
> > >FRANK: My intestines are now a straight pipe filled with gaseous,
>Sulfuric flames. I shit myself when I farted and I'm worried it will eat
>through the chair. No one seems inclined to stand behind me except that
>slut Sally, she must be kinkier than I thought. Can't feel my lips
>anymore. I need to wipe my ass with a snow cone!
> >
> >Chili # 7: Susan's Screaming Sensation Chili
> > JUDGE ONE: A mediocre chili with too much reliance on canned peppers.
> > JUDGE TWO: Ho Hum, tastes as if the chef literally threw in a can of
>chili peppers at the last moment. I should note that I am worried about
>Judge Number 3. He appears to be in a bit of distress as he is cursing
>uncontrollably.
> >
> >FRANK: You could put a grenade in my mouth, pull the pin, and I wouldn't
>feel a damn thing. I've lost the sight in one eye, and the world sounds
>like it is made of rushing water. My shirt is covered with chili which
>slid unnoticed out of my mouth. My pants are full of lava-like shit to
>match my damn shirt. At least during the autopsy they'll know what killed
>me.
> >
> >I've decided to stop breathing, it's too painful. Screw it, I'm not
>getting any oxygen anyway. If I need air, I'll just suck it in through
the
>4-inch hole in my stomach.
> >
> >Chili # 8: Helen's Mount Saint Chili
> > JUDGE ONE: A perfect ending, this is a nice blend chili, safe for all,
>not too bold but spicy enough to declare its existence.
> >JUDGE TWO: This final entry is a good, balanced chili, neither mild nor
>hot.
> > Sorry to see that most of it was lost when Judge Number 3 passed out,
>fell over and pulled the chili pot down on top of himself. Not sure if
>he's going to make it. Poor Yank, wonder how he'd have reacted to a
really
>hot chili?
> >
> >FRANK: --------------(editor's note: Judge #3 was unable to report
>
>
>Christine M. Landry
>
>Inventory Analyst
>Baker Hughes Inteq
>2001 Rankin Rd.
>Houston, Tx.
>
>(713)-625-4269
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
Garry LeGare wrote
> Dave, I have done extensive long term testing with paper element filters. I
> have talked to Wix filter engineers. Their findings are that their filters do
> not stop water flowing thru them, nor do they stop gas flowing thru them, when
> the element is saturated with water. My testing with Wix and Fram filters agree
> with them. However, I wouldn't fly with any other brands as they may stop the
> flow of gas when their element becomes saturated with water.
>
Many years ago on a warm winter day, my partner and I flew from Alberta to
Saskatchewan to pick up a Cessna 140 for someone. It had been sitting for a long
time so when I filled the fuel tanks I checked for water and drained thoroughly.
Late in the day we took off for Edmonton but it got dark and the temperature was
starting to plummet so we landed safely in Camrose for the night.
By the next morning the temperature had fallen to about -20 Centigrade. I could
get
no fuel to flow from the gascolator. The C-140 has an excellent gravity fuel system
but there was enough water in the lines to freeze. It took a couple of hours in
a
heated hangar to thaw things out and get the rest of the water out.
In my own 140, I have seen ice crystals in gas taken both from the wing tanks
and
the gascolator more than once. Would that pass through a paper filter? Stranded
motorists in northern Alberta with frozen fuel filters was not uncommon before
alcohol was added to auto fuel.
Gary, did you testing include putting your filters in the freezer?
In hindsight, I was lucky my fuel lines froze while I was on the ground. With no
alcohol in avgas I will stick with a gascolator.
Roger Embree
6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings |
The design is right...but I need the barb for 5/8" hose. Darn! The price
on these is closer to reality!
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sigmatek Vacumn Pump fittings
>
> Hi-JEGS PHONE 1-800-3454545 PN720-2968-3/8NPT,1/2HOSE BARB=$10.99=HI FLOW
> FUEL FITTINGS -REGARDS TOM
>
> Thomas M. Whelan
>
> Whelan Farms Airport
> Post Office Box 426
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>
> PH 203-266-5300
> FAX 203-266-5140
> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1097, President
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts for Sale |
All parts sold. Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Parts for Sale
>
> I have a few spare parts for sale:
>
> Electric Elevator Trim Kit. Unused, in box. Purchased around 1995. This is
> the model with the electric gauge for trim position, not the lights. I
went
> with manual trim. $120
>
> Throttle cable, friction type, standard RV-6 length designed to be used
with
> the centre console. The plastic coating is chafed a bit from rubbing on
the
> firewall during test fittings but otherwise its new and unused. I mounted
my
> controls on the panel itself and needed longer cables.
> $25
>
> Mixture cable, vernier type, same condition. $25
>
> Curt
> cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca
> 204 958 2859 eve.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?Pyt=Typ&tuid=1079458&ck=1465942239
Listed in the Yahoo yellowpages as "Williams, Peter W - Rogers & Wells",
which looks like a law firm. Don't know if that's what you're looking for.
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Subject: RV-List: Help
>
> Is there anyone in New York that can help me find out if this place
> exists, and if so, how I can get hold of somebody there...
>
> PETER WILLIAMS ENTERPRISES
> 35 CROSBY ST #100B
> NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10013-2635
>
> Extensive Internet searches have turned up nothing...
>
> Thanks!!
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a presure switch |
To all of you who have replied to my post: thanks so much. Now I know I'm
not looking for something that doesn't exist....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for a presure switch
>
> Scott
>
> There is a pressure switch close to what you are asking for.
>
> 1/8"-27 Dryseal thread
> term."P"-"S" NC,opens at 1.0 psi
> term "P"-"I" NO, closes at 2.5 - 8.0 psi
> Standard Ignition Part Number PS-64
> GM Part Number 3986857
>
> This is the longer style, similar to the old small block Chevy single wire
> switches.
> There is another switch which is shorter, but with 1/4" pipe thread and
the
> same
> wiring configuration. Standard Ignition # PS-136, GM #1249945 or #
25500673.
>
> Application is 70 - 79 General Motors and Triumph Products. They are
three
> wire oil pressure / choke switches. I am unsure of the availability. Let
me
> know if you have no luck locating one.
>
> I would still like to know what you are using the switch for.
>
> George Meketa
> RV8QB installing wings Saturday A.M.
>
> -> The local automotive shops here are unable to locate a pressure switch
> for
> > me. It's 1/8th NPT, NC, 0.5psi.
> > Anyone know where I can get one?
> > thanks,
> > Scott in VAncouver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Orndorff Videos |
Have Orndorff videos for RV8 prepunched empannage,wings and fuselage. $100.
I'll pay shipping. Contact offline at rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com
Chris Santschi RV8 80881
Festus,MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying - Fund Raiser Continues... |
Dear Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is going well and I want to thank everyone that
has already so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists! Below
are some of the great comments and feedback members have been including
along with their Contributions.
Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and
upgrade of your Lists? Its fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web Site or
by simply sending a personal check. Complete information can be found at
Contribution web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
A give a special Thank You to all of those that have already contributed so
far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
================== What Listers Are Saying ===================
Great information site.
- Edward S.
This is the first thing I look at every day.
- Ralph M.
The new List option is WONDERFUL!
- Kenyon B.
...new Search Software is absolutely fantastic!!
- Bruce K.
...essential to my enjoyment of RV building and flying.
- Douglas W.
Great List!
- Randall H.
...an invaluable service!
- Carlos S.
...incredible service to the industry!
- Alex M.
Building wouldn't be the same without the "Great List".
- Tom E.
...has helped the building process immensely.
- Hap S.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
Roger, regarding your question, about whether ice crystals would pass through the
inline filters I've tested. I can say without any doubt that they will not.
The filter medium will filter out ice crystals as well as it would any large particle
mater, thereby keeping the ice out of the carb, and letting the gas pass through,
which is what you want.
I love being able to look through the clear case of the filter and see if anything
is
in it, when preflighting and while flying. Also when positioned horizontally the
large
diameter of the filter allows water or other contaminant to settle out, just as
with a
conventional gascolator, except, with the see through in line filter you can see
if
there is water in your fuel, something you can't do with a normal gascolator
installation.
As far as the stranded motorists in Alberta, I'm sure that if they were trained
to
drain the water out of the fuel tank before every flight, as we are, they probably
wouldn't accumulate enough water in the fuel to fill the filters with water in
the
first place, and if they had a see through in line fuel filter in the cockpit,
they
would be able to see the water starting to accumulate, before there was so much
that it
filled the filter.
I believe you would have had much less trouble with water in the fuel of the 140,
if
you had drained the tanks prior to fueling up and then again after fueling. Your
darn
lucky that the water that froze in the fuel lines never made it to the carb while
you
were flying.
As far as the fuel system goes for the 6A your building, I suggest that you talk
to
guys already flying., you'll find a good portion of them that have gascolators
say they
would leave it out next time.
Have a good one and be careful out there.
Garry"Casper"
Roger Embree wrote:
>
> Garry LeGare wrote
>
> > Dave, I have done extensive long term testing with paper element filters. I
> > have talked to Wix filter engineers. Their findings are that their filters
do
> > not stop water flowing thru them, nor do they stop gas flowing thru them, when
> > the element is saturated with water. My testing with Wix and Fram filters agree
> > with them. However, I wouldn't fly with any other brands as they may stop
the
> > flow of gas when their element becomes saturated with water.
> >
>
> Many years ago on a warm winter day, my partner and I flew from Alberta to
> Saskatchewan to pick up a Cessna 140 for someone. It had been sitting for a long
> time so when I filled the fuel tanks I checked for water and drained thoroughly.
> Late in the day we took off for Edmonton but it got dark and the temperature
was
> starting to plummet so we landed safely in Camrose for the night.
>
> By the next morning the temperature had fallen to about -20 Centigrade. I could
get
> no fuel to flow from the gascolator. The C-140 has an excellent gravity fuel
system
> but there was enough water in the lines to freeze. It took a couple of hours
in a
> heated hangar to thaw things out and get the rest of the water out.
>
> In my own 140, I have seen ice crystals in gas taken both from the wing tanks
and
> the gascolator more than once. Would that pass through a paper filter? Stranded
> motorists in northern Alberta with frozen fuel filters was not uncommon before
> alcohol was added to auto fuel.
>
> Gary, did you testing include putting your filters in the freezer?
>
> In hindsight, I was lucky my fuel lines froze while I was on the ground. With
no
> alcohol in avgas I will stick with a gascolator.
>
> Roger Embree
> 6A fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pro-seal-gascolator |
> Speaking of pro seal, I would use RTV on the canopy, easier to apply.
Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it will
promote crazing. Not to mention that its not paintable so you don't want it
on any skirt edges that you're going to paint.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pro-seal-attach canopy |
Randall,
Is right.
To make the installation much less messy - use the semiweld (proseal) in the
tubes (self mixing) - you'll the appropriate caulking gun to use them. If
you have a contact in an auto body shop they will probably have one to
borrow or rent. They cost about $70 to buy.
Then you apply it just like regular caulking - just take you r time and it
will come out great and it easy to paint. Took dave about 15 minutes.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (25 hrs flown off)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: pro-seal-gascolator
>Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 23:55:21 -0800
>
>
> > Speaking of pro seal, I would use RTV on the canopy, easier to apply.
>
>Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it will
>promote crazing. Not to mention that its not paintable so you don't want it
>on any skirt edges that you're going to paint.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 66AP 40 hour report - long |
May I ask... what is "RTV"?
Thanks.
Robert
Alex Peterson wrote:
> I went through the engine area, and put blobs of RTV everwhere it looked
> > liked something might be chafing, or thinking about it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
tried the a .147mf cap on the amp gauge, on the shunt and it had no effect.
I have a fluke 99 scope so I'll try to get a few pics of the pwr/gnd circuit
during xmit this weekend.
I'm on the rv digest so send me an email if you want me to forward the pics
to you direct. Any particular frequency/time range I should be looking for?
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 66AP 40 hour report - long |
RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is perfectly descriptive)
comes in tubes as a rubbery gel and cures into a flexible rubber condition.
It comes in both regular (clear) and high-temp (red) varieties and is useful
for sealing small holes, cementing parts in place, etc. Great stuff...
Ken
Miller Robert wrote:
>
> May I ask... what is "RTV"?
> Thanks.
> Robert
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> > I went through the engine area, and put blobs of RTV everwhere it looked
> > > liked something might be chafing, or thinking about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Wing top skin riveting sequence?? |
Morning Listers,
On my RV8 wing, I have the outboard leading edge riveted to the spar. Would
it be best to install the tank with bolts and screws before riveting the top
skins? Also should I use LocTite on the an3 bolts for the tank through the
spar to z brackets?
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
www.iaJobs.com
jack(at)iaJobs.com
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
PLACEMENTS / OUTPLACEMENTS
TESTING / TEMPORARY STAFFING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. MacIntyre" <macintyr(at)vims.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: 66AP 40 hour report - long |
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing ... generally a silicone rubber compound.
>
>May I ask... what is "RTV"?
>Thanks.
>Robert
>
>Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> > I went through the engine area, and put blobs of RTV everwhere it looked
> > > liked something might be chafing, or thinking about it.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | GARVEY ADDRESSES PILOTS IN 'NEW WORLD' |
==> RESTORING GA <=
GARVEY ADDRESSES PILOTS IN 'NEW WORLD'
FAA Administrator Jane Garvey addressed the RV-List membership for the
first time in as many years Thursday morning, but this year her tone was
serious, underscoring the "new world" that we now live in after September
11. "You are not the security risk," she told the packed opening general
session at Matt Dralle's shop in Livermore, California via a satellite feed
from a Port-A-Potty in Washington, D.C. Instead, she said the security
concern is that some of your home-built planes could fall apart in the sky
and hit someone on the head. "A plane flying overhead is no longer cause
for wonder but a cause to wonder if it will stay together!", she added.
She also said that the FAA has been doing everything it can to return all
of aviation back to normal. It is re-scheduling ramp checks and many of the
other pilot harassing techniques used in the past. She said that they will
soon resume first through third class medical rejections for anyone with
Mohammad anywhere in there name. "This should keep our sky's safe until
they can get new ID's made up and new student visa's", She added. Garvey
also pointed out the fact that they "would have to apply for new licenses
and medical approvals with there new names and that will take at least
three to five years for us to process in our usual time frame".
Garvey said that the FAA was getting ready to resume normal Class B
operations early last week when the effort was stymied by the NOTAM
regarding flight near nuclear sites. She also said that all pilots
recognize that the FAA has never been a Class "A" operation so return to
Class "B" operations would be about normal.
Garvey credited Matt Dralle for his efforts in getting information to
RV-Listers and the use of his lists to be sure that these pesky home-brewed
airplanes are built correctly through information sharing by builders
helping builders. "Never has there been a time when communication between
the FAA and the RV-List been more important," Garvey said.
RV-List Administrator Matt Dralle presented Mike Robertson, FAA associate
administrator of "Cutting through the BS" and former head of Hawaii's
RV-list contingent and technical affairs division, with an Administrative
Citation for his "unwavering dedication" and support of the RV-List.
Robertson built and flew an RV-8 that remains trapped in Hawaii's temporary
flight restriction area otherwise known as "My partner wouldn't let me take
the plane to the mainland", Class "$" airspace.
Garvy also encouraged all RV-List members present at the meeting to
contribute to the RV-List fund-raiser. This is obviously why we have had
such great (NOT) participation of only 6% almost one third into the monthly
drive.
So let's listen to our administrator get those contributions in!
Please take a moment to support your Lists by making a Secure Credit Card
Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or you may send a personal check to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 gascolator |
Kevin,
Thanks, that's just the type info I was looking for.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Boyd,
Thank you for your input. I'm going to keep my gascolator in-line
between the boost and engine pumps, we'll see how that works out.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Boyd C. Braem <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Fw: RV-List: rv-4 gascolator
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem"
>
> Chuck--
>
> My "normal" Bendix/RSA FI fuel pressure is 23 psi (21 - 25) but I've
> seen a low of 19 and a high of 27 with no complaint from the engine.
> Twice, while climbing (2,000 fpm/120 kts) in cold air, I've had the fuel
> pressure drop below 17--turning on the boost pump for a few seconds
> "cured" the "problem", if any, as I have no explanation for the pressure
> drop. Any one???
>
> There is argument about the gascolator location in a FI system. Some
> say if you put the gascolator before the boost and engine pumps, the
> suction can cause bubbles and vapor in the fuel lines. Others say that
> if you put the gascolator between the boost and engine pump, the push
> pressure from the boost pump can dislodge debris/water that had nicely
> settled out. Personally, I'm not convinced that a gascolator serves any
> real purpose in a RV, even tho I still have mine mounted low on the
> firewall--but every year I make plans to take it out. Someday...
>
> If you do have an injector plugged, you will see some increase in
> pressure and the fuel computer will translate this as increased fuel
> consumption. But as Mr. Horton noted, the relief valve in the boost
> pump circuit will prevent any Oh! Oh! pressures.
>
> To keep yout injectors clean, run some Marvel Mystery Oil (I know, I
> know!) in your tanks every once in a while (and, maybe some TCP) and at
> each annual soak them in "Hoppe's #9 Gun Cleaning Solvent" and blow em
> out with compressed air.
>
> Boyd
> RV-Super 6
>
>
> Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
> >
> > I'm switching over to an "IO-320" (converted by Ly-Con) will my current
> > gascolator work? What kind of pressures will I be running with my
Bendix
> > fuel injection unit? What happens when one or two injectors get
plugged? I
> > was told that the pressures will double, then quad-druple, is that true?
> >
> > Chuck
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | pro-seal-attach canopy |
How long does it take for pro-seal (this time I used a generic "Flame
Master" from Aircraft Spruce) to dry?? 3-4 days or did I mix it wrong
again. The last time I just left the tanks for several weeks whilst I went
on with my life & other parts.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pro-seal-attach canopy
>
>
> Randall,
>
> Is right.
>
> To make the installation much less messy - use the semiweld (proseal) in
the
> tubes (self mixing) - you'll the appropriate caulking gun to use them. If
> you have a contact in an auto body shop they will probably have one to
> borrow or rent. They cost about $70 to buy.
>
> Then you apply it just like regular caulking - just take you r time and it
> will come out great and it easy to paint. Took dave about 15 minutes.
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (25 hrs flown off)
> Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>
>
> >From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: pro-seal-gascolator
> >Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 23:55:21 -0800
> >
> >
> > > Speaking of pro seal, I would use RTV on the canopy, easier to apply.
> >
> >Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it
will
> >promote crazing. Not to mention that its not paintable so you don't want
it
> >on any skirt edges that you're going to paint.
> >
> >Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> >Portland, OR
> >www.vanshomewing.org
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing top skin riveting sequence?? |
Jack,
That's the way I did it. Increased stiffness and assurance that you
maintain the butt joint interface between the tank and the skins. No
LocTite on any bolts. The platenuts have an elliptical hole which holds the
bolts.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
Finishing right wing, fuse ready to go
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing top skin riveting sequence??
>
> Morning Listers,
> On my RV8 wing, I have the outboard leading edge riveted to the spar.
Would
> it be best to install the tank with bolts and screws before riveting the
top
> skins? Also should I use LocTite on the an3 bolts for the tank through
the
> spar to z brackets?
>
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
> www.iaJobs.com
> jack(at)iaJobs.com
>
> Jack Textor
> PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
> 604 Locust, Suite 516
> Des Moines, IA 50309
> 515-243-7687 phone
> 515-243-3350 fax
>
> PLACEMENTS / OUTPLACEMENTS
> TESTING / TEMPORARY STAFFING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Control Cables... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I just installed the engine control cables in my -8A last night and have
posted some new pix to my site. I also have new pix of the Vetterman
exhaust installation, and you can see the filtered air box pix too...
One note on the cables... I have an O320-E3D, so I bought the 55"
cables from Van's... They fit, barely... My advice is get the 60"
cables at least... The extra 5" would have been welcome... I think,
depending on how you wanted to route the cables, the 67" wouldn't be
terrible... IMHO...
Later...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
| From: | Don Diehl <diehldon(at)home.com> |
> From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 12:16:30 -0800
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Gear leg fairings
>
> I am interested in some tips on gear leg and
> intersection fairings. I am in the process of fitting Van's fiberglass
> fairings to my short gear RV-4 and could use some advice regarding a
> faring/gear interface that has proven to maintain alignment and has survived
> many hours of operations.
I have over 100 happy hours with my Van's fiberglass gear leg fairings on my
RV-4. About 40% of my landings are on a grass (bumpy) field.
I cut a template to match the curve of the fairings, fastened it to a stick
that I could align with the aircraft centerline then marked spots on the
fuselage at the trailing ends of the fairings. At those spots I pop riveted
0.032 aluminum L-brackets. Drilled through the brackets and fairings for a
#8 stainless machine screw. The fairings are not clamped to the gear legs
nor do the gear legs have the wood dampers.
This induced a half-ball yaw so my alignment was not perfect. Using
stainless #10 fender (wide area) washers, I shimmed between the L-brackets
and the fairings to eliminate the yaw.
The installation really is much simpler than the above description. Contact
me off the list at if you need details.
I'm the third owner of this RV-4 and have extensively rebuilt it. The log
says it has the long gear legs. Can anyone tell me the differences between
long and short legs and their installation requirements?
Many thanks to Matt and all of you for this most informative site.
Don Diehl, N28EW
Bremerton WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Oil out breather |
Fellow Listers:
My flying RV-4 has an AEIO-360 with a Christen inverted oil system. The
builder ran a tube for the breather line all the way back to a point just
forward of the tailwheel.
Last week, after an hour flight, I suddenly noticed the tailwheel was
covered with oil directly in back of the breather outlet. I didn't think
too much about it since sometimes, a oily/water mixture will work it's way
through the tube and come out. This has only happened a couple times in the
110 hours I have owned the airplane.
I disconnected this long breather line and installed a short breather tube
that the builder had used in the winter. This provides a "normal" breather
outlet at the base of the cowl in case the long tube would freeze up in
winter. But today I flew the airplane for just 20 minutes and again the
tailwheel was covered in oil again. There was indications that oil was
coming out the breather line at the base of the cowl. Also, the oil level
has gone down about 1/2 qt in the last 2 or 3 hours (this airplane has never
used more than 1 quart in 15 hours). It is 600 hours since new. It runs
perfect and the engine analyzer indicates normal operation.
Any ideas why oil is now coming out the breather before I call my mechanic?
Thanks
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
>> I'm the third owner of this RV-4 and have extensively rebuilt it. The log
> says it has the long gear legs. Can anyone tell me the differences between
> long and short legs and their installation requirements?
>
>
You would definitely know the difference between short and long legs as the
long legs position the nose 4 inches higher. A long-geared RV-4 almost
looks like a RV-8 at quick glance.
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil out breather |
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> My flying RV-4 has an AEIO-360 with a Christen inverted oil system. The
> builder ran a tube for the breather line all the way back to a point just
> forward of the tailwheel.
>
> Last week, after an hour flight, I suddenly noticed the tailwheel was
> covered with oil directly in back of the breather outlet. I didn't think
> too much about it since sometimes, a oily/water mixture will work it's way
> through the tube and come out. This has only happened a couple times in the
> 110 hours I have owned the airplane.
>
> I disconnected this long breather line and installed a short breather tube
> that the builder had used in the winter. This provides a "normal" breather
> outlet at the base of the cowl in case the long tube would freeze up in
> winter. But today I flew the airplane for just 20 minutes and again the
> tailwheel was covered in oil again. There was indications that oil was
> coming out the breather line at the base of the cowl. Also, the oil level
> has gone down about 1/2 qt in the last 2 or 3 hours (this airplane has never
> used more than 1 quart in 15 hours). It is 600 hours since new. It runs
> perfect and the engine analyzer indicates normal operation.
>
> Any ideas why oil is now coming out the breather before I call my mechanic?
>
> Thanks
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
I had a problem one time where the breather line was just at a spot
where
the oil was being siphoned out of the line. After shortening the oil
breather line the problem went away.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
Don Diehl wrote:
> I'm the third owner of this RV-4 and have extensively rebuilt it. The log
> says it has the long gear legs. Can anyone tell me the differences between
> long and short legs and their installation requirements?
>
The short legs are part # U-401 and measure 48" from top to end of axle thread
-
measured around the bend.
The long legs are part # U-415 and measure 50.5".
Ken
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil out breather |
Maybe post this question on the aerobatic list?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil out breather
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> My flying RV-4 has an AEIO-360 with a Christen inverted oil system. The
> builder ran a tube for the breather line all the way back to a point just
> forward of the tailwheel.
>
> Last week, after an hour flight, I suddenly noticed the tailwheel was
> covered with oil directly in back of the breather outlet. I didn't think
> too much about it since sometimes, a oily/water mixture will work it's way
> through the tube and come out. This has only happened a couple times in
the
> 110 hours I have owned the airplane.
>
> I disconnected this long breather line and installed a short breather tube
> that the builder had used in the winter. This provides a "normal"
breather
> outlet at the base of the cowl in case the long tube would freeze up in
> winter. But today I flew the airplane for just 20 minutes and again the
> tailwheel was covered in oil again. There was indications that oil was
> coming out the breather line at the base of the cowl. Also, the oil level
> has gone down about 1/2 qt in the last 2 or 3 hours (this airplane has
never
> used more than 1 quart in 15 hours). It is 600 hours since new. It runs
> perfect and the engine analyzer indicates normal operation.
>
> Any ideas why oil is now coming out the breather before I call my
mechanic?
>
> Thanks
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net> |
I Have just bought a RV6 A with a Buick V8 engine. It has a handle on the
instrument panel. When the handle is turned it releases some vacuum and the
manifold press goes down. Can any one tell me the purpose of this valve
Ted Fields
Guymon OK.
N8706D & N4344X Expermintal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil out breather |
Doug,
Usually when oil starts to weep out of the crankcase breather it means
that the internal crankcase pressure has
increased. This is caused by cylinder ring blowby. Do a good compression
check. This will show which
cylinder it is.
It could also be caused by having an oil separator, in line with the
breather tube, that is plugged up and not
allowing oil to flow back into the engine.
Good luck,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 Emp.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil out breather
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> My flying RV-4 has an AEIO-360 with a Christen inverted oil system. The
> builder ran a tube for the breather line all the way back to a point just
> forward of the tailwheel.
>
> Last week, after an hour flight, I suddenly noticed the tailwheel was
> covered with oil directly in back of the breather outlet. I didn't think
> too much about it since sometimes, a oily/water mixture will work it's way
> through the tube and come out. This has only happened a couple times in
the
> 110 hours I have owned the airplane.
>
> I disconnected this long breather line and installed a short breather tube
> that the builder had used in the winter. This provides a "normal"
breather
> outlet at the base of the cowl in case the long tube would freeze up in
> winter. But today I flew the airplane for just 20 minutes and again the
> tailwheel was covered in oil again. There was indications that oil was
> coming out the breather line at the base of the cowl. Also, the oil level
> has gone down about 1/2 qt in the last 2 or 3 hours (this airplane has
never
> used more than 1 quart in 15 hours). It is 600 hours since new. It runs
> perfect and the engine analyzer indicates normal operation.
>
> Any ideas why oil is now coming out the breather before I call my
mechanic?
>
> Thanks
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Ted,
If this is a small valve, it is call a manifold pressure drain. Sometimes
fuel or water will accumulate in the manifold pressure lines. If you open
that valve with the throttle at idle, it will suck all the fuel and water
out of those lines into the engine. That would be a Runup item on your
checklist.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 A
>
> I Have just bought a RV6 A with a Buick V8 engine. It has a handle on the
> instrument panel. When the handle is turned it releases some vacuum and
the
> manifold press goes down. Can any one tell me the purpose of this valve
> Ted Fields
> Guymon OK.
> N8706D & N4344X Expermintal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil out breather |
>
> Any ideas why oil is now coming out the breather before I call my
mechanic?
>
> Thanks
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
Doug, it could be that the line which returns oil from the separator to the
sump is clogged, and your separator is finally full of oil. This line
becomes the breather line when inverted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 40 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pro-seal-attach canopy |
I said [regarding RTV]:
> Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it will
> promote crazing.
I think I have to retract that -- someone questioned me about it offline and
frankly I couldn't remember where I got the idea it would craze, so I went
back and looked at the archives and it appears that a lot of people have
used RTV on their canopy with no ill effects. If someone has had problems
hopefully they will speak up, but I can't honestly say I have direct
knowledge either way.
I do stand by my recommendation to use Lexel or Proseal however -- since
both are paintable unlike silicone based RTVs you don't risk
contamination/fisheyes etc. on adjacent aluminum surfaces.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
List: I am fitting the upper cowl and was wondering when ready to rivet
the Forward Top Skin (F-6106) how did other builders drill & rivet the
edge that meets the fuselage on both sides?
My kit is a QB and the holes are drilled and dimpled already
about 18 in. back on both sides of the upper fuselage skin. Do I finish
riveting the fuselage skin first, or are both skins drilled to match and
riveted together?
Even with cargo straps the F-6106 skin is going to be tough to
hold,drill & rivet!! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
...and Happy Birthday to all of my fellow Marines on the RV List!
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested |
Fellow listers,
I've been off-list for about two months while I finished up the sale of
my RV-6. With that now completed, I am patiently awaiting the arrival
of my RV-7A kit. It has been fun to consider all the "do overs". I
pretty much have all the options, engine, prop, paint, lighting and
wiring all figured out already. I'm really itching to get going. I'm
hoping for a very quick build cycle, less than 24 months.
One thing I found interesting that I thought I'd share, was my
comparison of instrument options. I set some parameters for my self and
then set about to see what was out there. My parameters were VFR cross
county; AOA; color moving map in the panel; fuel totalizer; and
autopilot w/altitude hold, gps following, and climb/descent capable. I
looked at EFIS options, standard instruments, engine monitors, etc and
did a comparison of various combinations and options.
The results are in a spreadsheet at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-6and6A/files/ Click on "N417G" and
then click on "Instrument Comparison". What I found was that the
EFIS/One couldn't be beat by any other combination that I could find.
It also provided the most "value add" as well. The closest I could come
was to use standard flight instruments and the IK2000 engine monitor.
Although the GPS side of the EFIS/One is not fully developed yet and the
annual fee is pretty steep, it's still not a bad way to go. I think
that's the way I'm leaning. The whole panel will consist of an
EFIS/One, AOA, and a radio stack.
If any of you would like to share some of your "do overs" or nifty
options that you've seen on other projects, I'd very much like to hear
from you. Please send them on to me directly at rpflanze2(at)home.com.
Randy Pflanzer
N2517C - LongEZ - Sold
N417G - RV-6 - Sold
RV-7A - Just starting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested |
Randy,
Who makes the EFIS one and the IK2000 systems? Do they have websites?
John Henley, RV7 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze2(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been off-list for about two months while I finished up the sale of
> my RV-6. With that now completed, I am patiently awaiting the arrival
> of my RV-7A kit. It has been fun to consider all the "do overs". I
> pretty much have all the options, engine, prop, paint, lighting and
> wiring all figured out already. I'm really itching to get going. I'm
> hoping for a very quick build cycle, less than 24 months.
>
> One thing I found interesting that I thought I'd share, was my
> comparison of instrument options. I set some parameters for my self and
> then set about to see what was out there. My parameters were VFR cross
> county; AOA; color moving map in the panel; fuel totalizer; and
> autopilot w/altitude hold, gps following, and climb/descent capable. I
> looked at EFIS options, standard instruments, engine monitors, etc and
> did a comparison of various combinations and options.
>
> The results are in a spreadsheet at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-6and6A/files/ Click on "N417G" and
> then click on "Instrument Comparison". What I found was that the
> EFIS/One couldn't be beat by any other combination that I could find.
> It also provided the most "value add" as well. The closest I could come
> was to use standard flight instruments and the IK2000 engine monitor.
> Although the GPS side of the EFIS/One is not fully developed yet and the
> annual fee is pretty steep, it's still not a bad way to go. I think
> that's the way I'm leaning. The whole panel will consist of an
> EFIS/One, AOA, and a radio stack.
>
> If any of you would like to share some of your "do overs" or nifty
> options that you've seen on other projects, I'd very much like to hear
> from you. Please send them on to me directly at rpflanze2(at)home.com.
>
> Randy Pflanzer
> N2517C - LongEZ - Sold
> N417G - RV-6 - Sold
> RV-7A - Just starting
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
I have finally removed my fuselage "canoe" from the jig (YES!) and I no
longer need this. If interested, first $600 gets it. This jig can be used
for the -4 (probably includes Rockets) or -6 models, maybe the -3 I'm not
sure. It can be moved in a p-u truck, I've got it sitting in my S-10 waiting
to go to the hanger later today for storage but full size p-u with 8' bed
would be best. This comes with the "bird cage" option to hold the F604 and
f605 bulkheads in proper position. My wings fit like gloves.
If interested, contact me off list.
Marty in Brentwood TN (Nashville area).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Semper Fi... |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/10/01 04:59, John Lawson at jwlawson(at)hargray.com wrote:
>
> ...and Happy Birthday to all of my fellow Marines on the RV List!
>
> John
>
>
Me, too. Happy Birthday and thank God for all the deceased Marine heroes
who need to be remembered on this day.
And a salute to all who have survived, too.
(Former) Pfc Denis L. Walsh, USMCR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | IK-2000 (Was: New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested) |
Listers,
I'm in the process of installing the IK-2000 engine monitoring system, and
am documenting installation with a digital camera. I will provide a complete
run-down on installation and operation within a few weeks.
It is a very nice instrument, but is new to the market so there are very few
out there yet. They are great people to work with, and they have several
options of which perameters get displayed in the big read-out on the top
unit. In my opinion, it cannot be beat for the money. Does a LOT more than
the VM1000, and is LOTS less $$$.
Here is their website:
http://www.i-ktechnologies.com
Jim
Tampa 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
The Marines may be having a birthday but I want to wish all my fellow
veterans on the List a thankful Veterans Day tomorrow for all their
sacrifices.
John Kitz
USAF 55-59
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Tom,
I treated this just like the rear top skins. I drilled the ribs and such
first, strapped it down (lightly, until the top center was drilled), and
backdrilled everything from inside. My wife held a wood block and ran
clecos. There were some difficult holes to get to and you'd never make
all of it without an angle drill, though. Those holes you're worried
about along the sides are not too hard to backdrill using a long bit.
Once you get a bunch of clecos in it, the skin stays down well. I'd say
hold off riveting as long as you still need access to behind the panel.
Ed Holyoke
QB6 in SoCal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
Ervin
Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
List: I am fitting the upper cowl and was wondering when ready to rivet
the Forward Top Skin (F-6106) how did other builders drill & rivet the
edge that meets the fuselage on both sides?
My kit is a QB and the holes are drilled and dimpled already
about 18 in. back on both sides of the upper fuselage skin. Do I finish
riveting the fuselage skin first, or are both skins drilled to match and
riveted together?
Even with cargo straps the F-6106 skin is going to be tough to
hold,drill & rivet!! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
Tom in Ohio
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
How do you then dimple skins lying over either ribs, or longerons, which are
already in place in wing or fuse? I can't seem to visualize how this is
accomplished.
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> I treated this just like the rear top skins. I drilled the ribs and such
> first, strapped it down (lightly, until the top center was drilled), and
> backdrilled everything from inside. My wife held a wood block and ran
> clecos. There were some difficult holes to get to and you'd never make
> all of it without an angle drill, though. Those holes you're worried
> about along the sides are not too hard to backdrill using a long bit.
> Once you get a bunch of clecos in it, the skin stays down well. I'd say
> hold off riveting as long as you still need access to behind the panel.
>
> Ed Holyoke
> QB6 in SoCal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> Ervin
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
>
>
> List: I am fitting the upper cowl and was wondering when ready to rivet
> the Forward Top Skin (F-6106) how did other builders drill & rivet the
> edge that meets the fuselage on both sides?
> My kit is a QB and the holes are drilled and dimpled already
> about 18 in. back on both sides of the upper fuselage skin. Do I finish
> riveting the fuselage skin first, or are both skins drilled to match and
> riveted together?
> Even with cargo straps the F-6106 skin is going to be tough to
> hold,drill & rivet!! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Robert,
Some of the holes on the forward end of the top longerons are already
dimpled and awaiting rivets. I backdrilled through these. Further back,
where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
existing and countersink the underlying skin.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
How do you then dimple skins lying over either ribs, or longerons, which
are
already in place in wing or fuse? I can't seem to visualize how this is
accomplished.
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> I treated this just like the rear top skins. I drilled the ribs and
such
> first, strapped it down (lightly, until the top center was drilled),
and
> backdrilled everything from inside. My wife held a wood block and ran
> clecos. There were some difficult holes to get to and you'd never make
> all of it without an angle drill, though. Those holes you're worried
> about along the sides are not too hard to backdrill using a long bit.
> Once you get a bunch of clecos in it, the skin stays down well. I'd
say
> hold off riveting as long as you still need access to behind the
panel.
>
> Ed Holyoke
> QB6 in SoCal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> Ervin
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
>
>
> List: I am fitting the upper cowl and was wondering when ready to
rivet
> the Forward Top Skin (F-6106) how did other builders drill & rivet the
> edge that meets the fuselage on both sides?
> My kit is a QB and the holes are drilled and dimpled already
> about 18 in. back on both sides of the upper fuselage skin. Do I
finish
> riveting the fuselage skin first, or are both skins drilled to match
and
> riveted together?
> Even with cargo straps the F-6106 skin is going to be tough to
> hold,drill & rivet!! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
> =
>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
anyone know when the next RVator is coming?
Thanks,
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested |
John Henley wrote:
>
>Randy,
> Who makes the EFIS one and the IK2000 systems? Do they have websites?
>
>
http://bluemountainavionics.com/index.html for the EFIS/one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
"Further back,
where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
existing and countersink the underlying skin."
Ed:
Thanks for the reply. Countersink underlying structure... makes sense. But,
then do you countersink or dimple the overlying skin? If Countersink, then
the thinness of the skin is an issue?
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Robert,
>
> Some of the holes on the forward end of the top longerons are already
> dimpled and awaiting rivets. I backdrilled through these. Further back,
> where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
> existing and countersink the underlying skin.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
>
> How do you then dimple skins lying over either ribs, or longerons, which
> are
> already in place in wing or fuse? I can't seem to visualize how this is
> accomplished.
> Robert
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > I treated this just like the rear top skins. I drilled the ribs and
> such
> > first, strapped it down (lightly, until the top center was drilled),
> and
> > backdrilled everything from inside. My wife held a wood block and ran
> > clecos. There were some difficult holes to get to and you'd never make
> > all of it without an angle drill, though. Those holes you're worried
> > about along the sides are not too hard to backdrill using a long bit.
> > Once you get a bunch of clecos in it, the skin stays down well. I'd
> say
> > hold off riveting as long as you still need access to behind the
> panel.
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> > QB6 in SoCal
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> > Ervin
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
> >
> >
> >
> > List: I am fitting the upper cowl and was wondering when ready to
> rivet
> > the Forward Top Skin (F-6106) how did other builders drill & rivet the
> > edge that meets the fuselage on both sides?
> > My kit is a QB and the holes are drilled and dimpled already
> > about 18 in. back on both sides of the upper fuselage skin. Do I
> finish
> > riveting the fuselage skin first, or are both skins drilled to match
> and
> > riveted together?
> > Even with cargo straps the F-6106 skin is going to be tough to
> > hold,drill & rivet!! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
> >
> > =
> >
> >
>
> =
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Whelen wiring questions |
I have the A600-PG/PR wingtip assembly and the HDA,CF power pack. I want to
alternate between the left and right strobes. Is this how I wire it?
Left strobe in socket 3 or 4
Right strobe in socket 2
Jumper pins 1 and 2 in socket 1 (trigger)
What is the proper size wire for the HDA,CF power +,- runs? It is a 12 V
system.
What is the proper way to wire the forward and tail position lights? Can I
use a common ground at the wing tip, tie the two positive leads together at
the wing and run one wire to a switch and power supply? What would be the
proper size wire for this combination?
Ross Mickey
RV-6A builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Checking Spinner Back Plate |
Yesterday was gorgeous, no wind 60+ miles visibility 76 degrees it was time
for my wife & I to fly somewhere for lunch. As I pulled over for a run up I
saw the shadow of my spinner on the ground, it appeared to be a little off
center at idle, when I did my run up it smoothed up, I was going to do an oil
change when I got back anyway so I would check then. During the oil change I
pulled the spinner, to my amazement I saw a big crack in the back plate.
"GROUNDED" its now time to remove the prop. Once I had the back plate off
this thing was ready to self disintegrate. Cracks were every where. This was
the 13" backplate that Vans sells with the kit. Its a scary thought to lose a
spinner in-flight. The cause of this problem I believe is from installing
some anti-chafing tape between the front spinner plate and spinner. The tape
was gone and that made the spinner lose on the front plate, that small amount
of play fatigued the back plate. I cannot see my spinner from in the plane so
I consider myself lucky I saw that shadow of my spinner while my engine was
running. Lesson learned...... never assume anything when it comes to
airplanes.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
100hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Robert,
My opinion is: dimple wherever you can, countersink if you must. If you
c-sink on .032, which is technically allowable, you run the risk of
going too deep and weakening the joint. Thinner material shouldn't be
c-sunk. Dimples are more sure of getting a full strength joint.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
"Further back,
where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
existing and countersink the underlying skin."
Ed:
Thanks for the reply. Countersink underlying structure... makes sense.
But,
then do you countersink or dimple the overlying skin? If Countersink,
then
the thinness of the skin is an issue?
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Sorry to beat this one to death... but,
I guess the heart of my question is this: Is it allowable then to dimple the
top skin over a countersunk hole in an underlying rib or longeron?
Thanks again.
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Robert,
>
> My opinion is: dimple wherever you can, countersink if you must. If you
> c-sink on .032, which is technically allowable, you run the risk of
> going too deep and weakening the joint. Thinner material shouldn't be
> c-sunk. Dimples are more sure of getting a full strength joint.
>
> Ed
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
>
> "Further back,
> where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
> existing and countersink the underlying skin."
>
> Ed:
> Thanks for the reply. Countersink underlying structure... makes sense.
> But,
> then do you countersink or dimple the overlying skin? If Countersink,
> then
> the thinness of the skin is an issue?
> Robert
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg & Cindy Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Robert,
As long as the part you countersink is thick enough to still be in spec, it
is proper procedure to do what you are asking. There are many places on the
9A kit where that procedure is in the instructions.
Greg
9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Miller Robert
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
Sorry to beat this one to death... but,
I guess the heart of my question is this: Is it allowable then to dimple
the
top skin over a countersunk hole in an underlying rib or longeron?
Thanks again.
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Robert,
>
> My opinion is: dimple wherever you can, countersink if you must. If you
> c-sink on .032, which is technically allowable, you run the risk of
> going too deep and weakening the joint. Thinner material shouldn't be
> c-sunk. Dimples are more sure of getting a full strength joint.
>
> Ed
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
>
> "Further back,
> where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
> existing and countersink the underlying skin."
>
> Ed:
> Thanks for the reply. Countersink underlying structure... makes sense.
> But,
> then do you countersink or dimple the overlying skin? If Countersink,
> then
> the thinness of the skin is an issue?
> Robert
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Ed,
If I read you correctly, you are asking how dimples in the skin are best
accomplished after the substructure has been dimpled.
I first located the center of the skin and drilled it so that I could remove
and replace the skin for repeated fitting.
Next I chose to pre-shape the skin before back drilling it. to do this I put
two appropriate lengths of two-by-four in my vice, then I inserted the
longeron edge of the skin between the two-by-fours. I used two C-lamps to
hold the outer ends of the wood and the skin tightly clamped.
Using gentle steady force I shaped the skin so that after repeated tries it
droped into place and required little or no effort to Cleko it into place.
Next I used the C-frame and dimpling tools to dimple the skin. I did need an
assist to hold the skin carefully in position during the C-frame dimpling
process. This forward skin is thick enough to machine counter sink, even so
I always try to squeeze or drive dimples wherever possible,
I hope I read you right, lots of luck!
dimple the skin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
>
> Sorry to beat this one to death... but,
> I guess the heart of my question is this: Is it allowable then to dimple
the
> top skin over a countersunk hole in an underlying rib or longeron?
> Thanks again.
> Robert
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > My opinion is: dimple wherever you can, countersink if you must. If you
> > c-sink on .032, which is technically allowable, you run the risk of
> > going too deep and weakening the joint. Thinner material shouldn't be
> > c-sunk. Dimples are more sure of getting a full strength joint.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller Robert
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment
> >
> >
> > "Further back,
> > where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
> > existing and countersink the underlying skin."
> >
> > Ed:
> > Thanks for the reply. Countersink underlying structure... makes sense.
> > But,
> > then do you countersink or dimple the overlying skin? If Countersink,
> > then
> > the thinness of the skin is an issue?
> > Robert
> >
> > Ed Holyoke wrote:
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pro-seal-attach canopy |
The shop that painted my -6A applied a Proseal fillet around the
perimeter of the canopy and windows. It looks great and seals
unquestionably. It appears that they applied the fillet after paint was
dry by masking the plexi about 1/8 inch from the frame. The fillet was
then carefully laid between the masking and the frame. I suspect the
masking was removed immediately after the fillet was laid down.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 420 hours
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I said [regarding RTV]:
> > Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it will
> > promote crazing.
>
> I think I have to retract that -- someone questioned me about it offline and
> frankly I couldn't remember where I got the idea it would craze, so I went
> back and looked at the archives and it appears that a lot of people have
> used RTV on their canopy with no ill effects. If someone has had problems
> hopefully they will speak up, but I can't honestly say I have direct
> knowledge either way.
>
> I do stand by my recommendation to use Lexel or Proseal however -- since
> both are paintable unlike silicone based RTVs you don't risk
> contamination/fisheyes etc. on adjacent aluminum surfaces.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
Robert,
Yeah, that's the right way to do it. Multiple dimples nest into each
other just fine, but if it's too thick to dimple, you c-sink it and the
dimple above has someplace to sit. Also, thicker material has a
remaining bore in it that is unaffected by the countersinking, assuring
that the rivet is fully supported.
See: http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm for more info
about correct riveting procedures.
Ed Holyoke
Sorry to beat this one to death... but,
I guess the heart of my question is this: Is it allowable then to
dimple the
top skin over a countersunk hole in an underlying rib or longeron?
Thanks again.
Robert
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Robert,
>
> My opinion is: dimple wherever you can, countersink if you must. If
you
> c-sink on .032, which is technically allowable, you run the risk of
> going too deep and weakening the joint. Thinner material shouldn't be
> c-sunk. Dimples are more sure of getting a full strength joint.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I believe the RTV's that have ammonia are not to be used.
I had a compatiblility chart around here once for plexi, but I can't find
it.
But any acrylic vendor would have this chart.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Trim Cable Cover? |
About to close up the left elevator. I have the trim reinforcing bracket
riveted to the skin I am ready to install the K1100-06 nutplates. Now
the question - Do I countersink or dimple the screw hole in the
reinforcing bracket, what about the cover plate counter sink or dimple.
I am thinking I should countersink the bracket and dimple the plate.
What have you guys done?
I also have 7 small K1000 nutplates and small gold tone (may be
brass)round head screws, that I have not figured out where they go,
anyone know?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pro-seal-attach canopy |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> I said [regarding RTV]:
> > Not a good idea. You don't want that stuff near your plexiglass -- it will
> > promote crazing.
>
> I think I have to retract that -- someone questioned me about it offline and
> frankly I couldn't remember where I got the idea it would craze, so I went
> back and looked at the archives and it appears that a lot of people have
> used RTV on their canopy with no ill effects. If someone has had problems
> hopefully they will speak up, but I can't honestly say I have direct
> knowledge either way.
>
> I do stand by my recommendation to use Lexel or Proseal however -- since
> both are paintable unlike silicone based RTVs you don't risk
> contamination/fisheyes etc. on adjacent aluminum surfaces.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
It was locktite that caused the crazing.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Stick grips again |
I like the shape of the Inifinity stick grips, but they're expensive and
- not to reopen the switch debate - but I really only want a single
trigger-style PTT switch. I haven't been able to find anything like
this. I'm thinking I'd like to buy a grip shaped like the infinity, but
with no switches at all and then mount one right under my index finder.
Does any one know of any grips like this? - No switches, just contoured
black plastic made in left and righthand versions that I can modify.
thanks
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Forward Top Skin Attachment |
In a message dated 11/10/01 11:11:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes:
> "Further back,
> where they are already riveted, you space your rivets between the
> existing and countersink the underlying skin."
Tom,
I didn't do mine as suggested above due to the closeness of the
rivets. I drilled out about 8 rivets on each side in this area (they were put
in from the factory on the QB) and used the same pre dimpled holes to nail
down the skin. Worked out perfect on my application (and no countersinking).
Good luck.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm final stuff and paint prep (takes
much longer than building - no joke either)
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs |
I'm getting ready to do something (dimple or countersink) the inboard main skin,
wingwalk doubler, and ribs 1-5 for my left wing. What combination has worked best
for other list members? I'm wary about countersinking the skin and/or doubler,
because they are so thin (and my countersinking skills aren't the best in the
world), but if that's the way to go, I'll do it. Thanks!
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (left wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eli Liebermann" <eliebermann(at)monmouth.com> |
Is there an advantage in NOT riveting the front bottom skin of the fuselage
before taking it off the jig (keeping it on with clecos)? If yes, what is
the it, and when is the best time for riveting it?
Eli
RV6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
The advantage is being able to get to your instrument panel wiring. This
skin was the last panel I riveted up just before painting.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (sold)
RV-7A (on order)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eli Liebermann" <eliebermann(at)monmouth.com>
Subject: RV-List:
>
>
> Is there an advantage in NOT riveting the front bottom skin of the
fuselage
> before taking it off the jig (keeping it on with clecos)? If yes, what is
> the it, and when is the best time for riveting it?
>
> Eli
> RV6A fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs |
I dimpled all three and worked great.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Test Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs
>
> I'm getting ready to do something (dimple or countersink) the inboard main
skin,
> wingwalk doubler, and ribs 1-5 for my left wing. What combination has
worked best
> for other list members? I'm wary about countersinking the skin and/or
doubler,
> because they are so thin (and my countersinking skills aren't the best in
the
> world), but if that's the way to go, I'll do it. Thanks!
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (left wing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
The plans call out AN7-21A bolts for the two big bolts that attach the gear
to the fuse, the parts bag with all the gear hdwr had AN7-21's instead (they
have the hole for the cotter pin). Am I the only one? Does it matter?
Should I use these AN7-21 bolts with the non-cotter pin nuts?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs |
dimple everything
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs
>
> I'm getting ready to do something (dimple or countersink) the inboard main
skin,
> wingwalk doubler, and ribs 1-5 for my left wing. What combination has
worked best
> for other list members? I'm wary about countersinking the skin and/or
doubler,
> because they are so thin (and my countersinking skills aren't the best in
the
> world), but if that's the way to go, I'll do it. Thanks!
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (left wing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing |
ribs
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/11/01 07:39, John Lawson at jwlawson(at)hargray.com wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to do something (dimple or countersink) the inboard main
> skin,
> wingwalk doubler, and ribs 1-5 for my left wing. What combination has worked
> best
> for other list members? I'm wary about countersinking the skin and/or
> doubler,
> because they are so thin (and my countersinking skills aren't the best in the
> world), but if that's the way to go, I'll do it. Thanks!
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (left wing)
>
>
>
>
>
>
I dimpled. Always dimpled whenever possible. I believe it is stronger, but
can't prove it. Only countersunk when I had to. Some that come to mind
are on the tank where it overlaps the spar, and the hinges where you don't
want to do either to the soft hinge strip, so you dimple in to countersink
for that triple layer.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
rv4 vs the short gear? I have a -4 that was built in 92 and am assuming that
it is the short gear that I hear you guys talk about. It would seem that
while the long gear would offer a greater amount of ground clearance for the
prop tips it would also detract from the forward visability that you need on
takeoff or landing rollout. What is the advantage of having your nose
sitting higher in the air?. Since you have to get the tail off the ground
anyway in taking off and assume a slightly tail low attitude what is to be
gained? Appreciate any feed back you can offer on this guys. Thanks
George Spring rv-4 4375J
Chester, Conn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis I. Willig" <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear
>
> Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
> rv4 vs the short gear? I have a -4 that was built in 92 and am assuming
that
> it is the short gear that I hear you guys talk about. It would seem that
> while the long gear would offer a greater amount of ground clearance for
the
> prop tips it would also detract from the forward visability that you need
on
> takeoff or landing rollout. What is the advantage of having your nose
> sitting higher in the air?. Since you have to get the tail off the ground
> anyway in taking off and assume a slightly tail low attitude what is to
be
> gained? Appreciate any feed back you can offer on this guys. Thanks
> George Spring rv-4 4375J
> Chester, Conn.
George,
I fly both a long gear and a short gear RV-4. There is no problem with
visibility over the nose in the long gear -4. (I am just average height).
Honestly, the reason for the long gear is for visual aesthetics :>).
Van will tell you that the long gear was designed because the short gear
allowed the tail wheel to hit first in a full stall 3 point landing. The
problem is that it STILL hits first in a full stall 3 point landing. A stall
depends on angle of attack. But the angle of attack in landing when compared
with the surface angle of the runway varies in a real life situation.
Variables, such as wind direction, speed, turbulence, runway level, aircraft
speed and weight/balance characteristics, all make the 3 point landing
impossible to do every time. In perfectly still air, I can nail a greaser 3
point landing 80-90% of the time. But the last time I had perfectly still
air was a few years ago. A computer Auto-land system might do it but us
earthlings aren't that good. If I had my 'druthers, I'd make the gear
another 3 or 4 inches taller. It looks great with the front sitting up high.
Like I said..."visual aesthetics"....that's why man invented red sports
cars.
Some folks will disagree with this opinion. C'est la vie. But, "A man's
gotta know his limitations." And, I'm outta here now. It's Sunday and time
to go flying.
Peace to everyone, and may God save mankind from ourselves.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
Penn Valley, PA 19072
(610) 668-4964
RV-4, IO-360, C/S 160 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 8 gear bolts |
The FAA approves drilled bolts with self-locking nuts when the diameter is
5/16" or better. You should be ok.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: 8 gear bolts
The plans call out AN7-21A bolts for the two big bolts that attach the gear
to the fuse, the parts bag with all the gear hdwr had AN7-21's instead (they
have the hole for the cotter pin). Am I the only one? Does it matter?
Should I use these AN7-21 bolts with the non-cotter pin nuts?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IK Technologies - Ralph Krongold" <2pilots(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 11/10/01 |
Original Message:
From: "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Project - Long post - Delete now if not interested
Randy,
Who makes the EFIS one and the IK2000 systems? Do they have websites?
John Henley, RV7 fuselage
John: The IK2000 is produced by I-K Technologies. Their Website is:
www.i-ktechnologies.com (be sure to type a hyphen between the letter "i" and
the letter "k")
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Have You Tried the New List Browse Feature?? |
Hi Listers,
I've been getting a LOT of very positive feedback on the new Email List
Browsing feature I added to the suite of List services a couple of weeks
ago. A number of List members have written to say that they love the new
List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages
throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait
for the Digest issue to come out.
The List Browse Function allows you to use your web browser to view the
current 7 day's worth of List messages for the give List. The indexes are
updated every 30 minutes with any new messages that have been posted. You
can sort all of the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and
easily track and find current threads.
You can check out the New List Browse Feature by going to the following URL
and clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Please remember that November is List Fund Raiser month!! The continued
operation and upgrade of the Email Lists are _entirely_ supported by YOUR
Contributions and support. You'll never see annoying, flashing banner ads,
or other forms of commercialism on these Lists. Just people sharing
information, data, and stories about your favorite topic, plain (plane?)
and simple.
If you enjoy the Lists and all of the services here, won't you take moment
and make a quick Contribution? It fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web
site with your Visa or MasterCard. Or, you can also send a personal check
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SSL Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
USMail: Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Don't forget that the "List of Contributors" will be coming out in just a
few short weeks! Don't you want to make sure you're name is on it?
I would like to wish a special "Thank You" to everyone that has made a
Contribution so far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eli Liebermann" <eliebermann(at)monmouth.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 & RV6 Jig available in NJ |
An excellent Aluminum jig (was used to build an RV4 and an RV6) is available
in central jersey for $200. If interested please contact me at
eliebermann(at)monmouth.com.
Eli
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Cowl Trimming & Attach |
For those of yo who have already done it, how did you trim the upper and lower
cowl halves (the horizontal line) to fit each other nicely? I've got the upper
and lower pieces trimmed and fit to the fuselage just fine but the best way
to trim and fit them to each other escapes me. Thanks in advance.
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> Is there an advantage in NOT riveting the front bottom skin of the
fuselage
> before taking it off the jig (keeping it on with clecos)? If yes, what is
> the it, and when is the best time for riveting it?
I found that the bottom skin had to be on to get the firewall rigid to the
fuselage. It's the top front skin that will be the very last one to get
permanent. Perhaps Randy thought you were talking about the top one.
Rivet the bottom skin while the jig is holding everything square then you're
done with the jig.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs |
John,
Dimple all.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking/dimpling wing skin/skin doubler/wing ribs
>
> I'm getting ready to do something (dimple or countersink) the inboard main
skin,
> wingwalk doubler, and ribs 1-5 for my left wing. What combination has
worked best
> for other list members? I'm wary about countersinking the skin and/or
doubler,
> because they are so thin (and my countersinking skills aren't the best in
the
> world), but if that's the way to go, I'll do it. Thanks!
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (left wing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'RV-List Digest Server '"@matronics.com
Doug, thx for the tips, will persue.
Did figure out that both radios do it, one is kx97A and the other is
garmin190gpscom with rubber stubby antenna.
Had scope at 10ns which is fastest it goes and found about 85mv sinewave
during xmit on either radio.
now for the fun one. If radio is below 122.0 amp gauge goes full neg, if
above 122.0 it goes full pos??? At 122.0 it kinda wanders.
the .147 was a ceramic. I didn't bother to read it, I just stuck it in my
beckman dvom which also reads caps/diodes/transistors/and leds.
Will go back and trace out antenna shield circuit, but I think this isn't it
as the gpscom also causes it.
was going to try with caps between every post on the amp gauge next.
I also found that by moving the antenna cable around behind the panel it
changed it some, but not a lot.
More later, as i play with it.
thx
W
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Gray
Subject: Re: RV-List: Amp gauge
Wheeler,
Hmm...It is almost certainly RF related yet you are unable to decouple
it...BTW
the capacitor needs to be ceramic otherwise it's impedance will be too
high. A
.147u is fine but it is an odd value for a capacitor , a 0.1uF ceramic
would
usually be marked 0.1 or 104 (104 = 10 followed by 4 zeros = 100000pF
0.1uF)
I suspect you may have some RF impressed on the electrical system or
ground. I
would look at the antenna cabling first, the 'scope may give some odd
traces
which will be difficult to relate back to your actual problem area.
Do you have access to a 50 ohm RF dummy load? If so, connect this to
the
radio in place of the aircraft's antenna, if your probelm disappears
then the
antenna may not be wired correctly. If you can run a known good length
of
cable between the radio and the antenna this would confirm RF
integrity. Is
the antenna itself properly grounded to the airframe? Check by
disconnecting
the feedline and check for continuity from the antenna's BNC socket and
the
airframe.
In any case, check the feedline (RG58 ?) ground braid and signal
conductors
have good continuity from BNC plug to BNC plug.
If the radio's antenna socket is not grounded through the radio (check
with
the multimeter) then ensure that it does not become grounded through the
radio
chassis.
Whatever you do, only transmit with the correct load, you do not want to
smoke
the radio.
In terms of investigating with the scope, you would need a scale
suitable for
the Tx frequency - 130-140MHz. (try 10 nS to start with).
I take it that the symptoms are the same with and without the engine
running?
Other than these comments, it is difficult debugging this stuff without
actually being there. Problems like these soon yield to a fairly
methodical
approach. Keep me posted.
Doug Gray
Sydney, Australia
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> tried the a .147mf cap on the amp gauge, on the shunt and it had no
effect.
>
> I have a fluke 99 scope so I'll try to get a few pics of the pwr/gnd
circuit
> during xmit this weekend.
>
> I'm on the rv digest so send me an email if you want me to forward the
pics
> to you direct. Any particular frequency/time range I should be
looking for?
>
> thx
> W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety & 0perating costs |
In the last post we were at the cowling stage. Both my 6 and the 6A kit
are the old style cowling, not the current S type. As those who have
finished their cowlings I am sure they would agree that a long story
could be written on fitting them. On my 6 with the spinner centered on
the circle on the front of the cowling I noticed that the engine sagged
about a quarter inch during the first two years (Dyno- focal mount). On
the 6A I fitted the cowlings so the top of the spinner was only !/8 inch
below the top of the ring to try to compensate for the sag.
Several builders have had the sad experience of the long pins that hold
the two halves together becoming unsecured at the front. The pin then
works its way forward into the prop. I like the idea of lining the NASA
vents up with this pin and then inserting it from the rear.
With the engine hung and the cowlings fitted we start to get into the
more serious safety items. Will start with one that has been beaten to
death on the list, the gascolator. To install one or not and if so
where. For me it is a must, for me to fly without one would be against
everything I have learned over the years. For me safety is about
eliminating every possible chance of an engine failure due to causes
that we as builders have control of. The gascolator is the only means we
have of trapping large quantities of water, the way fuel is handled
today the chances of getting contaminated fuel are remote but it only
has to happen once.
One situation would be when the a/c is parked for a couple of rainy days
on a bit of a slope and rain gets by a loose fitting tank cap or seeping
by the shaft in the center of the cap. We come out to the a/c in a
hurry to leave and forget to check the tanks or we check but because the
a/c is not level we don't get it all out, this is all it takes.
On my 6 I installed the gascolator on the left side of the firewall and
it had to be up a bit to clear the mount making it very inconvenient to
drain and also required the boost pump to be on to drain it. I later
moved it into the wing root location with a short piece of hose
protruding through the fairing this puts it low enough I can now drain
it easily without the boost pump and will gravity fill with fuel in the
event of a blown tank. Also wanted the the gascolator before the boost
pump to reduce the chances of a leak at the gascolator,especially now
with the 20 odd pounds of pressure required for the Bendix fuel
injection. Am uncomfortable with any type of inline filter, feel it
raises the risk of fuel starvation and don't feel it is required with a
screen in the gascolator and another one at the Bendix throttle body.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
Norman and others,
No, I understood it to be the bottom skin. I did the final drilling of the
bottom skin while it was in the jig, but I swear that the last bit of
riveting that I did was to put the bottom skin on and then paint. The only
drawback was that I had to use pop rivets along the lower firewall/skin
because the engine mount prevented me from getting a buck in there. If I
had to do it over again, (which I will on my new -7A), I will pull the mount
off just far enough to buck the rivets. I actually put the top skin on
early so that I could fiberglass the windshield on for the slider/rollbar
assembly.
I found it easy to do all the wiring and plumbing from the bottom and it
also kept me from putting things that later would not be accessable from
under the panel. Some of my friends wired things up with the top skin off
and then found that they had mounted a few things that were tough
(impossible) to access from underneath. I don't think that is a major issue
but it is something to watch for.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (sold)
RV-7A (on the way)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
> > Is there an advantage in NOT riveting the front bottom skin of the
> fuselage
> > before taking it off the jig (keeping it on with clecos)? If yes, what
is
> > the it, and when is the best time for riveting it?
>
> I found that the bottom skin had to be on to get the firewall rigid to the
> fuselage. It's the top front skin that will be the very last one to get
> permanent. Perhaps Randy thought you were talking about the top one.
>
> Rivet the bottom skin while the jig is holding everything square then
you're
> done with the jig.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
George,
I have built both versions and
the long gear 4 is definitely easier to 3 point properly, plus, I think that
it looks better but that is a personal opinion. The trouble is, just the
gear legs cannot be changed, the engine mount has to be changed also.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear
>
> Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
> rv4 vs the short gear? I have a -4 that was built in 92 and am assuming
that
> it is the short gear that I hear you guys talk about. It would seem that
> while the long gear would offer a greater amount of ground clearance for
the
> prop tips it would also detract from the forward visability that you need
on
> takeoff or landing rollout. What is the advantage of having your nose
> sitting higher in the air?. Since you have to get the tail off the ground
> anyway in taking off and assume a slightly tail low attitude what is to
be
> gained? Appreciate any feed back you can offer on this guys. Thanks
> George Spring rv-4 4375J
> Chester, Conn.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Oil out breather |
Fellow Listers:
Just want to thank those that added their thoughts on my oil breather
problem. Over the weekend, I disconnected all the hoses on the Christen
system and cleaned out the air/oil canister (it was full of a lot of
"glop"). Checked the compression and that was fine. Put it all back
together and the problem seems solved.
The moral is that the Christen air/oil separator needs to be cleaned once in
a while (mine had not been cleaned since new, 8 years and 600 hours ago).
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Cover? |
I dimpled both the bracket and plate. Works fine for me. (RV-7)
In the whole RV-7 emp kit, I don't recall having to machine countersink
anything other than the thick aluminum stiffeners and the elevator skin and
trim tab hinge. Everything else was pretty much dimple city. 8
)
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trim Cable Cover?
>
> About to close up the left elevator. I have the trim reinforcing bracket
> riveted to the skin I am ready to install the K1100-06 nutplates. Now
> the question - Do I countersink or dimple the screw hole in the
> reinforcing bracket, what about the cover plate counter sink or dimple.
>
> I am thinking I should countersink the bracket and dimple the plate.
> What have you guys done?
>
> I also have 7 small K1000 nutplates and small gold tone (may be
> brass)round head screws, that I have not figured out where they go,
> anyone know?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | 8 fwd belly skins? |
I'm a little confused about the RV-8 fwd belly skins, where they attach to
the firewall. The F851 skins, the ones on each side of the cooling ramp,
rivet to the very bottom of the firewall. The plans indicate to dimple and
rivet while doing the rest of belly skins. The video explicitly confirms
this. BUT, isn't there a short piece of hinge that goes in that area for
the cowling? Won't the dimple and the rivet itself get in the way? The
stuff seems too thin to countersink. What to do?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com> |
I have been going back and forth between an RV9A and a Zenith Zodiac XL
for some time and am having a devil of a time making up my mind. If
anybody would like to try to woo me to the RV (offlist)- and put up with
some questions- I'll be listening.
-Paul
paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bendix mixture lever |
Have had to fabricate a new mixture control lever on a Bendix injector. This
had to be done to clear the fab airbox. Although I am confident that my new
lever will be fine one cannot help but wonder what would happen if the
mixture lever on the injector were to become disconnected during flight.
Anyone have any idea?
Thanks,
Bill Griffin, Reisterstown, MD
RV-6 IO320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Smith" <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Need tail wheel spring, U-402. |
Removing 360 swivel tail wheel, going back to the original nonswivel
(30*) U-402 tailwheel assy......Anyone out there have one for sale (Van
doesn't carry them anymore!). Thanks. esmith6(at)satx.rr.com
210-494-1495.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
In a message dated 11/11/2001 7:30:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SSPRING83(at)aol.com writes:
> Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
> rv4 vs the short gear?
You said it....long gear better prop clearance, especially if you have a
constant speed prop. I have noticed no deference in the view out of the
canopy.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Need tail wheel spring, U-402. |
Just for my own knowledge, why would you do away with the 360 swivel?
Gene Smith wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
> Removing 360 swivel tail wheel, going back to the original nonswivel
> (30*) U-402 tailwheel assy......Anyone out there have one for sale (Van
> doesn't carry them anymore!). Thanks. esmith6(at)satx.rr.com
> 210-494-1495.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 builders |
I also started out on a Zenith 601HDS. I thought the plans and factory
support were very good. One major difference between the two kits is build
time and total price since many Zenith planes use the Rotax engines. I
switched because I thought I would someday forget about all the hours of
labor (which is more fun than work) and the extra expense when I ended up
with what promises to be a really great aircraft.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on canopy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com>
> I have been going back and forth between an RV9A and a Zenith Zodiac XL
> for some time and am having a devil of a time making up my mind. If
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8 fwd belly skins? |
> I'm a little confused about the RV-8 fwd belly skins, where they attach to
> the firewall. The F851 skins, the ones on each side of the cooling ramp,
> rivet to the very bottom of the firewall. The plans indicate to dimple
and
> rivet while doing the rest of belly skins. The video explicitly confirms
> this. BUT, isn't there a short piece of hinge that goes in that area for
> the cowling? Won't the dimple and the rivet itself get in the way? The
> stuff seems too thin to countersink. What to do?
>
> Thx,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
Larry, DON'T rivet that yet, just leave it clecoed, and that goes for the
entire firewall perimeter. Good call on asking, and you're correct, you need
to include either the cowling hinge or the plate for Camlocks.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 137 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
A word of caution. I used screws (#6) on my canopy, which I finished a year
ago, and I have many small cracks (26 at last count) around the canopy
frame. And mine isn't in service yet. The screws are about a half turn
more than finger tight. Sure would seem like a lot less pressure than
rivets.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ engine stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
There are a couple of things to try to prevent cracks from holes.
One, Is to slightly bevel the hole.
The other is to solvent polish the hole. You need to be very careful with
this procedure so the solvent doesn't get on the rest of the canopy, just
the interior of the hole. A fine brush can dab the solvent on the hole.
Insert when the hole is vertical from the bottom so that any excess will
stay on the brush.
Both these procedures minimize the stress risers by polishing the hole and
minimizing sharp edges. Remember you need over size holes as the plastic
expands and contracts due to temperature.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Screws
A word of caution. I used screws (#6) on my canopy, which I finished a year
ago, and I have many small cracks (26 at last count) around the canopy
frame. And mine isn't in service yet. The screws are about a half turn
more than finger tight. Sure would seem like a lot less pressure than
rivets.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ engine stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
Mike,
Were the holes for the #6 screws in the canopy drilled to 5/16 and
countersunk? This allows for movement due to temperature fluctuations.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Screws
>
> A word of caution. I used screws (#6) on my canopy, which I finished a
year
> ago, and I have many small cracks (26 at last count) around the canopy
> frame. And mine isn't in service yet. The screws are about a half turn
> more than finger tight. Sure would seem like a lot less pressure than
> rivets.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ engine stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV4 Air scoop/Box |
A friend of mine has been building an RV4 IO320 D2A. Has most of the plane
finished, HOWEVER when he fitted his cowl the air box was not on. Cowl fits
great without the airbox on. With the airbox on it appears the bottom scoop
of the cow needs to be completly redone. It appears the IO airbox drops down
lower then a regular carb Also the throttle lever on the carb touches the
bottom of the cowl.. Anyway has anyone run into this problem on a RV4 with an
IO engine. Possibly and after market scoop etc. Would appreciate any info he
is about ready to give up the project.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
I used #6 screws with Tinnerman washers to distribute the load over a bigger
area of the plexi. Try your local hardware store for Lexel. BTW I put a dab
of Lexel on the screw threads to seal them. Seemed to work well, 'course I'm
not flying yet.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy attachment (pro-seal?) |
Hey Guys,
Again I'm a little slow in keeping up with the list but, here's a
suggestion for the "Pro-Seal attachment" canopy issue.
We all agree that Pro-Seal has to be the messiest stuff to deal with
known to man. Good stuff but, messy, slow curing and in general , one
of those " I'd really rather not" kind of products.
Anyway, there is a product manufacture known as FUSOR. They make all
types of adhesives and sealers. Primarily used in the auto industry
(used to secure doors to posts, panels to structures, etc...
There are different "grades" depending on the shear that it will be
required to withstand (for door hinges to posts like G.M. Trucks, we use
110 as an example).
It's packaged in a pre-ratio tube and has detachable mixing nozzles so
you only use what you need.
Cost isn't bad. If your starting out new, with buying the gun,
plungers, adhesive, and a bunch of mixing nozzles you'll have about
$50.00 tied up but, the gun and plungers are forever.
Depending on the formula your going to use, the average set-up time is
around 20 minutes. Then it's at around 80% shear strength. Full cure
in 24 hours.
It's paintable, won't degrade the plexi or lexan and does have some
"give" to it and is stronger than the material that your bonding.
Pretty sweet stuff IMHO.
Jim Duckett, N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Free Copy of Van's New "THE RV STORY" Video! |
Hey Listers!
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy Gold of The Builder's
Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is donating a FREE COPY of the
new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS) to any Email List Member
making a Contribution of $50 or more!
To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following
information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you
Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check
via the USMail:
Van's RV Story Video Offer
$50 or Greater Contributor
[your name]
[your shipping address]
[your City, State and Zip Code]
If you've already made a Contribution in 2001 of $50 or more and would like
to receive the video, please drop me an email ( dralle(at)matronics.com ) and
include the information shown above with the words "Video Offer" in the
Subject line.
Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available
in about 8 weeks.
I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very
generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The
Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look (
http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of
interesting, informative, and exceptionally useful books and videos on his
site. Please have a look!
Again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a
Contribution so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Your Contributions
make all of the Lists and Services found here possible - period.
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Updated Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV6-List(at)matronics.com, RV7-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
An Update to the Email List Photo Share below is available:
Subject: Fuselage Roller
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kdbrv8r@charter.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Master Contactor Connections |
This seems like a really dumb problem but I find that the battery terminal
studs on my master relay (from Van's) are so short that I can barely get one
fat wire terminal on and still have threads enough to get a lock washer and
thin brass nut on. There is not enough length to even get a thin diode ring
terminal on there, let alone a connection to the essential bus. Has anyone
else run into this, and if so, how did you solve it? I'm thinking about one
or the other following solutions. 1) The studs are retained in the relay
case with a thick nut and a captive cup shaped washer, so I could disassemble
the nut and cup washer and replace the existing nut with a much thinner brass
nut. 2) I could install an intermediate terminal post like connection, like
a big brass bolt, insulated from ground of course, between the battery and
the battery terminal on the master relay where I could make the other
necessary connections. Any better ideas will be much appreciated.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | In line fuel filter behavior in cold conditions. |
Last week Roger Embree had a good question as to whether ice crystals
would pass thru the in line filters I have been using. I answered in my
post that they wouldn't, nor would they plug the filter itself unless
there was a lot of them.
This got me thinking; could the filter medium itself become saturated
with water and stop the flow of gas when it got cold enough to freeze.
To settle my mind, I performed the following test;
I have a Wix model 33003, Clear body, inline fuel filter that has been
sitting almost continuously (only taken out for testing) in a sealed jar
of water since 4/27/99. I removed the filter from the jar, let the
water drain out of it for 5 seconds, poured the water out of the jar,
dropped the filter back in and filled the jar with 100LL. This was put
in my freezer ( 18 degrees F) and left over the weekend.
This morning I removed the jar from the freezer, and using tongs, lifted
the filter out of the jar, being sure to lift in such a way as to cause
the gas to flow through thru the element to drain out of the filter.
This was done five times in rapid secession, so the filter would stay as
cold as possible. Each time the fuel flowed out of the filter in a few
seconds.
My conclusion;
If the filter element does absorb water, the amount is so small, that
when the temperatures are below freezing, it has little effect on filter
performance. This is also the conclusion of the engineer at Wix that I
talked to.
Garry "Casper"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
Norman,
I used #6 screws and the smaller #6 tinnerman washers. You will find that the
hole in the plexi has to be fairly oversized (I think mine are about 5/8in)
and the washer helps distribute some of the tension of the screw in that large
of a hole. Additionally, I also put a tinnerman #6 washer between the plexi
and frame (upside down) on the bottom of the plexi. Most of this information
I got from the 18 yrs of the RVator on using screws for the canopy.
Seems to work well,
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Attachment on RV-4 |
Got a question for the RV-4 experts!
I'm trying to attach my rudder to the VS. I've set the rod end
bearings to 13/16" gap as shown on the elevator to HS
drawings, haven't found the deminsions for the rudder to VS. The two
top bearings can be set, but the longer bearing
on the bottom can't be screwed in that deep. The longer rod end isn't
threaded as far down the shaft as the shorter bearings.
My question, what is the correct setting for the rudder rod end
bearings? Can I just thread the lower bearing in as
deep as it will go and just line up the two upper bearings to match?
This has to have been seen before but there isn't anything in the
archives.
Thanks in advance,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911 EMP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Adequate Carb heat? |
Here is an NTSB accident synopses from a 1999 RV-6A accident.
Please note the probable cause as stated by the NTSB includes inadequate
carburetor heat shroud design.
Does anyone know if this has been addressed by Van's as they are still using
a 2" Diameter Tube as their carb heat system?
Has anyone flying had any trouble with their carb heat system as being
inadequate?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
NTSB Identification: DEN99LA062 . The docket is stored in the (offline) NTSB
Imaging System.
Accident occurred Thursday, April 01, 1999 at PAYSON, UT
Aircraft:Sly RV-6A, registration: N80287
Injuries: 2 Uninjured.
After being airborne for 15 minutes, the aircraft's engine began to lose
power. The pilot initiated an emergency landing along a county road but
switched to another road to avoid power lines. Upon touchdown, the aircraft
departed the side of the road and struck a fence post. The engine was
examined and test run, and no discrepancies were observed. The pilot stated
that 'other pilots at the scene agreed the conditions could cause carburetor
icing.' According to the FAA inspector present at the accident scene, 'the
conditions were a classic setup for carburetor icing.' The Van's Aircraft
construction and operating manual states that one method of building the
carburetor heat system is to 'run a 2-inch air hose from a heat muff and
position it to feed into the alternative air inlet of the carb[uretor] air
box,' which is the method by which the pilot constructed the airplane.
According to the inspector, the 2-inch hose is not large enough to
adequately supply enough heat to the carburetor to sufficiently melt the
ice. The aircraft was issued an airworthiness certificate by the FAA on
August 24, 1995.
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of
this accident as follows.
The development of carburetor ice resulting in a loss of engine power, and
the inadequate carburetor heat shroud. Factors were the carburetor icing
weather conditions, the kit manufacturer's inadequate carburetor heat shroud
design, the FAA's inadequate certification of the aircraft, the snow
covered, unsuitable terrain on which to perform a forced landing, and the
fence post.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kloos" <jim.kloos(at)virgin.net> |
Simple,cut off the old scoop and bond on a new 360 scoop from Van's.Keep
the 320 FAB to give extra clearence for levers/exhausts etc.
Jim Kloos RV4 UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYBOYRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Need tail wheel spring, U-402. |
Gene, Why do you want to get rid of the 360 tail wheel assy? Is it because it
has no authority on rollout for directional control? I had that problem when
I changed over to the 360 so I had a buddy of mine mill out the travel
journals that increased the angle before it would let the wheel swivel
freely. Take it apart and you will see how this would work. When I first
installed it it unnerved me just during taxi when it would snap into the
swivel mode way too soon. Hope this helps. Jim Mandeville RV4 Ser # 111
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spinner template |
dear listers
thanks to one of our listers ( Tom Barnes )who took my copy of the spinner
template and scanned it into a jpeg file for me, i have cleaned it up quite a
bit in the paint program. those of you who have received a copy earlier, i
can send you a much cleaner picture now. respond off list and i will attach a
copy to an e-mail to anyone who needs a copy.
thanks
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spinner template on the web |
listers,
rather than e-mailing to everyone, i have put it on doug's photo album page,
under scott rv6a clean spinner or see the link below.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?&
.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27RV-6A&.src=gr&.view=t&.last=1
hope it helps
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Air scoop/Box |
Joe
Tell him its hopeless..............I'll take the project off his hands for 5
grand or so.....just to help out.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> A friend of mine has been building an RV4 IO320 D2A. Has most of the plane
> finished, HOWEVER when he fitted his cowl the air box was not on. Cowl
fits
> great without the airbox on. With the airbox on it appears the bottom
scoop
> of the cow needs to be completly redone. It appears the IO airbox drops
down
> lower then a regular carb Also the throttle lever on the carb touches the
> bottom of the cowl.. Anyway has anyone run into this problem on a RV4 with
an
> IO engine. Possibly and after market scoop etc. Would appreciate any info
he
> is about ready to give up the project.
>
>
Joe
> RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
In a message dated 11/12/01 1:12:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickjory(at)msn.com writes:
<< I missed the thread (other than someone asking where to get Lexel). What
does one use Lexel for? Thanks in advance, Rick Jory >>
Lexel is a clear paintable sealant that seems to be compatible with Lexan
plexi as an alternative to Pro Seal or the RTVs. I used it and so far I'm
very happy with the results. I also found that it cleans up very nicely with
mineral spirits paint thinner. One tube did my slider canopy with lots left
over.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg & Cindy Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Here's more info on Lexel. Sounds like good stuff.
Greg
http://www.sashcosealants.com/htmlfiles/lexel.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Screws
In a message dated 11/12/01 1:12:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickjory(at)msn.com writes:
<< I missed the thread (other than someone asking where to get Lexel). What
does one use Lexel for? Thanks in advance, Rick Jory >>
======================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Air scoop/Box |
I had the same problem. Really it is not a problem at all, just a bit more
work. Cut off the existing scoop. Then re-bond it to the cowl bottom using
simple aluminum brackets to hold the scoop in the position needed. Use glass
cloth and epoxy to reattach. Microballoon and epoxy to blend in the new seem.
My 6 manual provided pretty good instructions on the procedure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sharon & Darryl DuRossette" <durosset(at)fidnet.com> |
| Subject: | spinner template on the web |
Scott, I keep getting asked for a login ID and password by yahoo...is that
the right URL or do you have to have a ID and password to see it?
Darryl DuRossette
KR1 @ MO1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: spinner template on the web
listers,
rather than e-mailing to everyone, i have put it on doug's photo album page,
under scott rv6a clean spinner or see the link below.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?&
.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27RV-6A&.src=gr&.view=t&.last=1
hope it helps
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | 8 fwd belly skins? |
Thanks Randy - As it stands now, the skins is dimpled, but the firewall is
not. How do things finally end up in that regard? Should I 'undimple' the
skin or dimple the firewall?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:19 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 8 fwd belly skins?
>
>
> > I'm a little confused about the RV-8 fwd belly skins, where
> they attach to
> > the firewall. The F851 skins, the ones on each side of the
> cooling ramp,
> > rivet to the very bottom of the firewall. The plans indicate to dimple
> and
> > rivet while doing the rest of belly skins. The video
> explicitly confirms
> > this. BUT, isn't there a short piece of hinge that goes in
> that area for
> > the cowling? Won't the dimple and the rivet itself get in the
> way? The
> > stuff seems too thin to countersink. What to do?
> >
> > Thx,
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
>
>
> Larry, DON'T rivet that yet, just leave it clecoed, and that goes for the
> entire firewall perimeter. Good call on asking, and you're
> correct, you need
> to include either the cowling hinge or the plate for Camlocks.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8 #80500, 137 hrs
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spinner template |
Scott,
Please reply with the template. Just beginning work on the spinner.
Thanks
Don Mack
don(at)dmack.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: spinner template
>
> dear listers
> thanks to one of our listers ( Tom Barnes )who took my copy of the spinner
> template and scanned it into a jpeg file for me, i have cleaned it up
quite a
> bit in the paint program. those of you who have received a copy earlier, i
> can send you a much cleaner picture now. respond off list and i will
attach a
> copy to an e-mail to anyone who needs a copy.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Attachment on RV-4 |
Ross,
While I'm building a -6 instead of a 4, on my drawing 6pp my plans show a
dimension of 2.5" between the rudder spar and the VS spar. The way I set
the initial distance was to set the top rod bearing and bottom rod bearings
to obtain the 2.5" distance then just screwed the middle rod bearing in
until it lined up. This can be a hassle because you have to take the rudder
on and off several times and the bolts can be tough to get to. Take some
advice that was passed along to me many moons ago. Set the top and bottom
rod bearings to get the distance you need then run a string between the top
and bottom bearing and use a string to set the middle bearing. You'll only
need to take the rudder off once or twice to get the final adjustment. This
saved me a whole bunch of time and aggravation.
Ultimately, you'll want to set the distance to whatever it takes to get the
appropriate rudder travel without hitting the VS.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Attachment on RV-4
>
> Got a question for the RV-4 experts!
>
> I'm trying to attach my rudder to the VS. I've set the rod end
> bearings to 13/16" gap as shown on the elevator to HS
> drawings, haven't found the deminsions for the rudder to VS. The two
> top bearings can be set, but the longer bearing
> on the bottom can't be screwed in that deep. The longer rod end isn't
> threaded as far down the shaft as the shorter bearings.
> My question, what is the correct setting for the rudder rod end
> bearings? Can I just thread the lower bearing in as
> deep as it will go and just line up the two upper bearings to match?
> This has to have been seen before but there isn't anything in the
> archives.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ross Scroggs
> Conyers, Ga.
> RV-4 #3911 EMP.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 Builders |
Thanks very much for all the responses I got, on and off the list. They
were generally a reinforcement of what I've heard: Van's quality is
unsurpassed, performance numbers are right on, Zenith exaggerates their
numbers, etc.
Never been any doubt in my mind as to which is the better plane, or has
the better price/performance ratio. But I still very much like to hear
the firsthand experiences of builders and fliers. (Else for one thing I
may have assumed Zenith's airspeed numbers were correct..)
Two things have held me back from declaring the RV9 a no-brainer:
1) Total cost.
2) Build time.
Regarding cost: When I starting looking at kitplanes I decided $30K was
my budget. I realize now it will take a bit more than that, but I do
need to keep it under $35K. That ought to be doable with a VFR panel
and either a used O235 or an Eggenfellner Sub. (I probably don't have
the kind of disposable income the average RV builder does. I make a
good living but I'm only 31.) Adding to the cost difference is the fact
that the Van's factory is much further from me, so picking up the kit is
not an option. (I have yet to look into what freight will cost (to
Milwaukee).. gotta be at least $1,000 I would guess.) Another $1K or so
for tools that I wouldn't need for a Zodiac. Anyway, all told I figured
an RV would end up costing me at least $5K more than the Zodiac, even
though the kit prices are nearly identical.
Build time: You hear so many things regarding build time when you first
start looking at kitplanes you don't know what to think. Some people
say factory estimates are reasonable, some say quadruple them at least.
I think I've now heard from enough RV9 builders to conclude that
1200-1400 hours total time is doable for a first-time builder, which is
just what the factory says. I'm talking about a basic VFR aircraft with
few or no mods. So, I think I can live with that. I originally wanted
something I could build in six-nine months but hell there is really no
reason at all to rush something like this, I figure. This is what
really drew me to the Zodiac- 400 hours the factory says. I think in
reality the gap between the Zodiac and the new matched hole RV kits is
much smaller than a factor of three. After all all the finishing-
panel, FWF, painting, etc., is the same either way.
Again, thanks for all the responses. I feel I've largely made up my
mind, even if it means waiting longer for an airplane. I'll be lurking
here.
-Paul
P.S. I started a new thread because I could not figure out how to reply
to a list message. I am using the web interface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spinner template |
see attached
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com> |
I'm in the Milwaukee area if anybody would like to offer me a ride. :-)
(I do *not* yet have my PPL nor have I soloed.. just looking for a demo
ride with a little stick time at altitude.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | control stick material |
Has anyone given thought to using an aluminum tube for the control
stick? Why does Van use a big heavy steel tube?
I would call Van's and ask, but I am over my 'dumb question' limit this
month.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | question re: rv9 vs. zodiac performance |
For discussion's sake, looking at the two aircraft, I have to wonder
exactly what is responsible for the large gap in cruise speed. An RV9A
outweighs a Zodiac XL empty by at least 300lb yet cruises at least 50
mph faster with the same O235. The RV obviously has a cleaner airframe,
expecially considering that fat Zodiac airfoil, but, it just doesn't
look that much cleaner to me, though I'm no aeronautical engineer. What
gives?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Folbrecht" <paul.folbrecht(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | FWF accessories & instruments/avionics |
I know they include the mount with the kit but there is no FWF kit for
an O235 or any other engine apparantly sold by Van's. As a first-time
builder I would certainly like to be able to purchase a complete FWF kit
instead of buying components here and there and needing to take probably
a heck of a lot more time getting things setup right. Does anybody else
offer FWF kits for RVs? If not about how much $ does everything you
need typically run?
One more thing: I'd be really interested in hearing about some "sample"
RV panels. VFR only really. What have you got exactly and what did you
spend? Offlist if you feel it appropriate. (I will also be checking
out as many builders' sites as I can in the near future...)
Ok, that's it for tonight. :-) I hope I'm not starting to get annoying
already. :-) If/when I build an RV I'll be sure to give back to this
list as much as I can.
-Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick material |
An out-of-trim go around in a 6A requires about 30 pounds-force exerted
through a 17-inch moment arm. You can run the load equations for yourself.
I've never questioned Van's engineering.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 107 Hours
Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: control stick material
>
> Has anyone given thought to using an aluminum tube for the control
> stick? Why does Van use a big heavy steel tube?
>
> I would call Van's and ask, but I am over my 'dumb question' limit this
> month.
>
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Attachment on RV-4 |
Ross, I don't know the correct settings but my bottom and top rod bearings
measure 29/32 and the middle one measures 1 inch. They line up. Looks like I
just ran the bottom one in almost as far as possible and made the rest line
up.
John Brick
Tacoma
RV-4 Electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross A. Scroggs
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Attachment on RV-4
Got a question for the RV-4 experts!
I'm trying to attach my rudder to the VS. I've set the rod end
bearings to 13/16" gap as shown on the elevator to HS
drawings, haven't found the deminsions for the rudder to VS. The two
top bearings can be set, but the longer bearing
on the bottom can't be screwed in that deep. The longer rod end isn't
threaded as far down the shaft as the shorter bearings.
My question, what is the correct setting for the rudder rod end
bearings? Can I just thread the lower bearing in as
deep as it will go and just line up the two upper bearings to match?
This has to have been seen before but there isn't anything in the
archives.
Thanks in advance,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911 EMP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8 fwd belly skins? |
Nope, dimple everything, but again keep clecos in 100% of the holes to keep
everything lined up until you rivet it with the hinge or camlock plate.
Randy
> Thanks Randy - As it stands now, the skins is dimpled, but the firewall is
> not. How do things finally end up in that regard? Should I 'undimple'
the
> skin or dimple the firewall?
>
> Larry Bowen
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> > Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:19 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: 8 fwd belly skins?
> >
> >
> >
> > > I'm a little confused about the RV-8 fwd belly skins, where
> > they attach to
> > > the firewall. The F851 skins, the ones on each side of the
> > cooling ramp,
> > > rivet to the very bottom of the firewall. The plans indicate to
dimple
> > and
> > > rivet while doing the rest of belly skins. The video
> > explicitly confirms
> > > this. BUT, isn't there a short piece of hinge that goes in
> > that area for
> > > the cowling? Won't the dimple and the rivet itself get in the
> > way? The
> > > stuff seems too thin to countersink. What to do?
> > >
> > > Thx,
> > >
> > > Larry Bowen
> > > RV-8 fuse
> >
> >
> > Larry, DON'T rivet that yet, just leave it clecoed, and that goes for
the
> > entire firewall perimeter. Good call on asking, and you're
> > correct, you need
> > to include either the cowling hinge or the plate for Camlocks.
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-8 #80500, 137 hrs
> > www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spinner template |
Scott: Is your template for CS or FP?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws |
----- Original Messages -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
>
> Were the holes for the #6 screws in the canopy drilled to 5/16 and
> countersunk? This allows for movement due to temperature
fluctuations.
>
Would you recommend the screws only be tightened to snug?
The holes were drilled to 3/16 with a unibit then slightly beveled to
remove sharp edges. I didn't do the solvent thing as never heard of
that. I would recommend not tightening much past snug. I talked to Gus
at Van's who had the same problem with his RV-6. He said they did not
propagate much more than a half inch or so then stopped. He didn't stop
drill any of the cracks. I did.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Can't find Lexel at home depot, no Ace Hardware stores in this area. Any
Canadian listers know where to get this stuff?
Norman Hunger
Hi Norman
I used Lexel several years ago to seal along the top of a Cessna windshield,
if I remember correctly I purchased it at a motor home parts dept. in
Surrey. Check around, it's not a rare product.
Contrary to the other reports I have read on this List I wasn't particurarly
impressed, it is not a wonder product. Probably has better holding power
than silicon sealant but in my opinion is not nearly as good as pro-seal for
sealing the canopy.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick grips again |
> I too wish that there was another alternative. The Affinity grips look
> good
> > but I think are overpriced.............
>
> There's the thing about spending more money, most times you get what you
pay
> for. If you had bought the Infinity grips you would not be disappointed
with
> the quality.
Heartily agreed. I got interested in the grips when they were first being
developed and had a distant view of the process that brought about the grips
he sells today. He went through several designs and plastics as well as
manufacturers before he landed on a product he was satisfied with. Only then
would he let them out on the market.
Get 'em; you'll love 'em.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | RV8 Cowl Trimming & Attach |
For those of yo who have already done it, how did you trim the upper and
lower cowl halves (the horizontal line) to fit each other nicely? I've got
the upper and lower pieces trimmed and fit to the fuselage just fine but the
best way to trim and fit them to each other escapes me. Thanks in advance.
-Don
RV8 NJ
Hi Don
Not sure of this is the info you want but not seeing any other answers I
will give it a try.
The newer style cowl has an overlap for those that want to use screws or
Camlock type fastners.
If using hinge type fastners you want a nice straight butt joint.
I used a straight piece of wood about twenty inches long (1 X 4) and glued
sandpaper to it, then sanded the cowl sides down to get a nice fit. It is
not perfect but a reasonably good fit.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |