RV-Archive.digest.vol-lx

November 20, 2001 - November 29, 2001



      > climbs at reduced throttle, and more importantly, without the benefit of the
      > carbs full throttle enrichenment.  In other words, I was climbing somewhat
      > lean, at a sea level airport. Unfortunately, I didn't notice it until I was
      > already committed to installing the Ellison TBI, so I never got a chance to
      > test the theory with the carb.  I did e-mail Lycoming, and they agreed that
      > it would have caused my problem, and the Ellison has had no such temp
      > problems.
      >
      > Russell Duffy
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv6238(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric R-10 missing pages
Hi Andy, Received my Aero-Conn on Friday sans Chapter 5. Please send to : Bill Griffin 1107 Nicodemus Road Reisterstown, MD 21136 Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch
In a message dated 11/19/2001 8:08:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes: > > > > > Can one of you please give me some insight on the wiring of Van's oil > pressure switch (the one that is to run the Hobbs, not the oil pressure). > It has three terminals... what is the proper hook-up for these three > terminals? > > Thanks, > > Jim > Tampa > 6A FWF and cowling done (except for 3 wires) > Hi Jim, One terminal is power the other two are normally open and normally closed. The normally open starts the Hobbs when it gets oil pressure and closes. I use the normally closed terminal to illuminate a master on/low oil pressure light on the instrument panel. Watch the Hobbs wire hook up. It is polarity sensitive. Cash Copeland RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <solr(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Free Porn!
Date: Nov 19, 2001
FREE Adult Magazine in your e-mail. Thats Right. By signing up you will receive our biweekly adult xxx magazine directly to your e-mail complete with high-quality, highly tasteful adult content. And its all FREE!!!! To sign up simply reply to this email with the word "subscribe" in the subject line. To accept you must be 18 years or older!!! No Exceptions! Note: This is a one time mailing. If you do not opt-in you will not be bothered again. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Baffled by Cooling
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
A lot of good ideas on improving cooling have been mentioned lately. Here is another one to add to your list. The under cylinder baffle wrap-around spacing is important to cooling also. Kent Paser, in his Book "Speed With Economy" determined through testing that the under cylinder head gap should be 2.25 inches. The under barrel gap should be 7/8-1.0" This was an O-320. I measured up a new Lancair 360 the other day and they used 2.0" under the head and 1.5" under the barrel(mid 300's F, NW summers). You can get close by using the Lycoming provided center baffle and noting the edge to center of the barrel distance. Compare your wrap distance to the center from the other side. I think you will find that the 'Baffle Kit" gives a wide variety of gaps that don't make much sense given the typical temps that people find (unless something changed). There is also two hard to see gaps(holes) near the rear cylinder flange of #4 that are difficult to plug. I got one of them with a tapered finger spacer about 2.0" long (1/4" to 0.0 taper). The other is plugged rather crudely with an aluminum wedge of bent sheet metal. As you all know, the name of the game is to prevent any high pressure air from getting to the bottom cowl area that isn't doing cooling work. One poster mentioned that he used EI Probes on an RMI engine monitor. While this can be done you must replace the 'J' thermocouple amp for a 'K' amp as the EI uses "K" for both EGT/CHT(unless designs have changed). Calibrate!!!! Good Luck with the building after flight phase. Lefty and Pancho ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Looking for drawing to show holes in fuel tank rib end flanges
OK, I give up. Help! I've looked at drawings till I'm blue in the face. Am looking in the RV-6 drawings for the detail that shows how many holes get drilled in the end flanges that attach the fuel tank ribs to the baffles. Can't find it. heeeellllllllllllpppppppppppppp Semper Fi John RV-6 (off on the wrong foot already, on the fuel tank for the left wing) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Van's Mapbox Kit
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Guys, is there anybody who has purchased Van's panel-mounted mapbox kit who can tell me what thickness aluminum is used for the box? I have some .032 and .025 scrap that I could make my own out of, but this seems like overkill.....016 or .020 at most would suffice for this purpose. I figured if I could save some weight (yes, I count ounces) and time by ordering Van's kit that I'd go that route, but I called Vans yesterday and the guy on the phone said he didn't know and really couldn't tell me (!?) what thickness aluminum is used in their mapbox kit... Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A fuselage, finish kit on order.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for drawing to show holes in fuel tank rib end flanges
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Drawing 18a ...lower left corner. These are the infamous "why are these dimpled" rivets. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 ----- Original Message ----- From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> Subject: RV-List: Looking for drawing to show holes in fuel tank rib end flanges > > OK, I give up. Help! > > I've looked at drawings till I'm blue in the face. Am looking in the RV-6 drawings for the detail that shows how many holes get drilled in the end > flanges that attach the fuel tank ribs to the baffles. Can't find it. heeeellllllllllllpppppppppppppp > > Semper Fi > John > RV-6 (off on the wrong foot already, on the fuel tank for the left wing) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure Switch
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Great... thanks... But, which one is which? jim >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> One terminal is power the other two are normally open and normally closed. The normally open starts the Hobbs when it gets oil pressure and closes. I use the normally closed terminal to illuminate a master on/low oil pressure light on the instrument panel. Watch the Hobbs wire hook up. It is polarity sensitive. Cash Copeland RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Mapbox Kit
To me that is a pretty simple answer, you said you are counting ounces so why not make it out of .016 and not worry about what Van makes his out of? BTW I used .016 for mine and it is plenty sturdy. Jerry S czechsix(at)juno.com wrote: > > > Guys, is there anybody who has purchased Van's panel-mounted mapbox kit > who can tell me what thickness aluminum is used for the box? I have some > .032 and .025 scrap that I could make my own out of, but this seems like > overkill.....016 or .020 at most would suffice for this purpose. I > figured if I could save some weight (yes, I count ounces) and time by > ordering Van's kit that I'd go that route, but I called Vans yesterday > and the guy on the phone said he didn't know and really couldn't tell me > (!?) what thickness aluminum is used in their mapbox kit... > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A fuselage, finish kit on order.... > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
You might be an RV builder if..... You had Carpal Tunnel surgery on your cleco hand after finishing the wings (yes, I did). Your definition of "expensive" has changed (upward) dramatically. "Only $120.00? Hell, get two!" Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Firewall Forward ==== Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved) EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Baffle/cowling painting?
I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. This ought to make it easy to clean and also prevent oil from soaking into the fiberglass. Can anyone suggest a good paint for this purpose, preferably in a rattle can? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Traffic avoidance system
Date: Nov 20, 2001
You might look at the Monroy device as advertised in a number of publications (I think the web is www.monroyaero.com . I don't own one but have two flights in planes equipped with them. The units are relatively small (3/4" high, 3 1/4" wide) and can be panel mounted or placed on the glareshield . . . Of course, they work on the principle of picking up a transponder signal . . . so there is no directional capability and if your potential midair isn't squawking you'll have to trust your eyes. The warning signal is both audible (female voice that can be muted) and a series of lights. It's a bit more expensive than the unit you've mentioned. Rick Jory ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruno <fo320(at)sympatico.ca> Subject: RV-List: Traffic avoidance system > > Hello everyone > Anyone on the list heard about,bought or tried the traffic > avoidance system offered by www.sureaviation.com and if so what do you thick > about it.For the price ($595.00US.)It seems to be a very good and affordable > system.Any comments is welcome good or bad. > > Thank you > > Bruno Dionne > RV-4 C-GDBH > fo320(at)sympatico.ca > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch
jim my oil switch from vans has a label on it. its is marked nc ( normally closed ) no ( normally open ) and com ( common ) stop by the shop and i'll show you how i hooked mine up. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
Date: Nov 20, 2001
You might be an RV builder if the words "Pro Seal" causes shakes and shudders or results in temporary amnesia. You might be an RV builder if the words "Pre-prepunch, Prepunch and matched holes" brings tears to your eyes. Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Baffled on the cooling
In a message dated 11/19/01 9:06:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, Emrath(at)home.com writes: > For what its worth, our local EAA Chapter put on an engine installation > seminar this weekend. The gentleman was discussing his O-360 fixed pitched > installation on a Cozy IV (as in 4 place). He advises there is > "temperature > tape" available that you can put on an item, go fly, and then observe the > color change. I've not heard of this, nor know where to get some, nor how > accurate it is. Maybe others do. These are available from McMaster-Carr and several part numbers cover a broad range of temperatures. They are also available at welding supply outlets. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
11/20/2001 09:59:20 AM Hi Ken, I anodized my baffles, but painted the cowl interior with white epoxy paint. I used a two-part boat paint by Petit. I was worried about the temperature resistance, but it hasn't even turned brown in the areas where the exhaust pipes pass within a 1/2" or so (after 42 hours). You do have to mix it up, but it can be easily rolled or brushed with disposable tools. Good luck, Dean |--------+----------------------------------> | | Ken Balch | | | | | | Sent by: | | | owner-rv-list-server@mat| | | ronics.com | | | | | | | | | 11/20/01 08:27 AM | | | Please respond to | | | rv-list | | | | |--------+----------------------------------> | | | To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" | | cc: | | bcc: | | Subject: RV-List: Baffle/cowling painting? | I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. This ought to make it easy to clean and also prevent oil from soaking into the fiberglass. Can anyone suggest a good paint for this purpose, preferably in a rattle can? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: Shielded wire...
"Rv8list@Egroups" What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? -Bill VonDane Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A - N8VD http://vondane.com/rv8a/ mailto:bill(at)vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
In a message dated 11/20/2001 5:36:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes: > > I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & > cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. This ought to > make it easy to clean and also prevent oil from soaking into the > fiberglass. Can anyone suggest a good paint for this purpose, > preferably in a rattle can? > > Applying paint to the inside of your cowl is a good idea I just used the same Dupont Corlar primer that I primed my plane with for that. Painting your baffling just adds weight and after a few hours of run time it is not all that good looking ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
Date: Nov 20, 2001
...you have just re-drilled the same hole (or within .001") in your left thumb for the fourth, fifth, or sixth time within a year and you still have the urge to de-burr it, dimple or counter sink it and then squeeze a flush head rivet (dipped in primer "of course") in the hole... before you decide to go get another F%*&~`ing bandage. ...you still remember fondly your first ride in an RV but can't remember exactly how much you've spent so far building your baby. ...you argue the difference between primers like "it really matters", because you know you'll be dead and gone long before your baby ever sees her first bit of corrosion (that's just for us guys & gals in the desert areas). ...you've accidentally gotten addicted to Matt's list because you're already addicted to the endorphins caused by your RV. ...you are suppose to be working (because after all, you are at work, you are on your company computer "right now") and you are on "The List". yep, this will likely go on & on. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
Date: Nov 20, 2001
> I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & > cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. DEFINITELY FILL and PAINT the inside of the cowl. You don't want oil soaking into it through the pinholes. I used a few coats of sanding primer to fill, then shot it with high-temp paint ("Hot Stuff" rattle-can paint, from an auto parts store). Probably not the best paint to use but its holding up well. BE SURE to also put some heat shielding on your cowl! I got some heat damage before I did this and I know some others have as well. Seems to be more of an issue with the newer epoxy cowls than the polyester. Van's now stocks heat shielding material. See http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/maintenance.html for more. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
If on your anniversary, before going out to eat, you stop by another builder that is further along then you are to check things out. You call home several times a day and ask your wife if anything is on the loading dock (front porch) from UPS, Your yard is the not as well kept as it should be, well lets say it is: just plane neglected. You come dragging home at 3 in the morning and when asked "where have you been" you can say with a clear conscience. Been at the hanger, working on the plane. Time just got away from me. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
Ken, I used aluminum foil 12" wide and glued it on with epoxy mixed with a little micro balloons. You don't want to add a bunch of weight so just swipe the epoxy over the surface with a small squeegee, then lay a piece of foil in place and starting from the center, smooth out any bubbles using a dry 2" paint brush. It's lighter than painting, reflects the heat and is non absorbent. If you wish you could spray on a light coat of epoxy primer or top coat and lay the foil into that, instead of the laminating epoxy. To get the paint to work properly you will have to fill all the pin holes, which takes multiple coats, a lot of time, adds weight and is difficult to get every pin hole. Over time the paint will discolor and the pin holes will start to show up as the absorb oil and gas. BELIEVE ME I KNOW. Garry "Casper" Ken Balch wrote: > > I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & > cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. This ought to > make it easy to clean and also prevent oil from soaking into the > fiberglass. Can anyone suggest a good paint for this purpose, > preferably in a rattle can? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > installing engine stuff > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV6A tail strobe
I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not see an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who has done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? Thanks: Doyal Plute ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Wrecked RV6
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Just an FYI for everyone. During my monthly shopping spree at Wentworth Aircraft in Minneapolis, I was wondering around the junkyard "out back" and saw what appeared to be a complete set of RV6 wings. Upon closer inspection I found there were !! Complete with lights, strobes, etc.. and in decent shape. Further searching brought me to a fuselage (no gear) and tail section. Turns out this plane is Marcus Cooper's RV6 that the engine blew two years ago. The plane is in fairly good shape, with the exception of Firewall Forward. FYI for everyone working on their canopies, the slider on Marc's -6 was riveted per plans and even after the lading that sheared the gear, the canopy doesn't have a crack anywhere. It still opens/closes and slides OK. Anyway, I just had to pillage some "stuff" from it (Lights, strobes, switches, breakers, etc..) and just thought I'd let everyone else know the plane is there and parts are for sale. If you have any questions or would like a more detailed description of the plane, contact me off list. Regards, Stein Bruch MSP, RV6, Finishing Engine hung, Slider done, Wiring :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
I forgot to mention that you will want to put some kind of heat barrier (fiberfrax-AS&S) on the cowl prior to the foil in the area where the exhaust pipes are close. This is especially important on the new S glass cowl as they are closer to the pipes than the old style polyester cowl. If you have an old style Vetterman exhaust (made for polyester cowl) and a "S" cowl, things get really close. Last year Vetterman changed the exhaust to give more clearance after Vans made the change to the "S" cowl. Garry "Casper" Ken Balch wrote: > > I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & > cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. This ought to > make it easy to clean and also prevent oil from soaking into the > fiberglass. Can anyone suggest a good paint for this purpose, > preferably in a rattle can? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > installing engine stuff > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: RV6A tail strobe
In a message dated 11/20/01 12:41:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, dplute(at)onemain.com writes: << I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not see an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who has done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? Thanks: Doyal Plute >> I don't think there is an easy way. I made an aluminum plate that matched the profile of the "mounting" side of the strobe. Then, I drilled and tapped it for the screws to mount the strobe. Finally, I glassed it into the rudder fairing. Easy to explain, but lots of work to complete, especially with all the fiberglass work required to make the whole thing look good. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
> > >You might be an RV builder if... > ...some of the worst insults in your vocabulary are "tuperware," "plastic," "porta-poties, "airplane-in-a-tube," ...you've ever seen a Glasiair builder using channel locks for a rivet squeezer, and laughed at him before offering the proper tools. ...the best advice you ever heard is "friends don't let friends fly plastic airplanes." Jeff Point -6 fuse Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV6A tail strobe
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
01:51:41 PM One way is to get a short piece of aluminum tubing that fits inside the alum collar of the light. Drill holes in the tube along the sides and glass into the fairing. Now that will make a recepticle for the light. Use set screws to lock it in. Eric Henson KBoatri144(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 11/20/2001 12:53:36 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A tail strobe In a message dated 11/20/01 12:41:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, dplute(at)onemain.com writes: << I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not see an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who has done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? Thanks: Doyal Plute >> I don't think there is an easy way. I made an aluminum plate that matched the profile of the "mounting" side of the strobe. Then, I drilled and tapped it for the screws to mount the strobe. Finally, I glassed it into the rudder fairing. Easy to explain, but lots of work to complete, especially with all the fiberglass work required to make the whole thing look good. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 'lectric Flaps
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
02:02:45 PM Hey Gang, Just put in the electric flaps. Is the motor supposed to stop itself both top and bottom? When it hits the bottom, it will stop "motoring" but at the top it keeps on doing its thing. Do I need to adjust something. How many parts do I need to reorder? Thanks and happy Thanksgiving Eric ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Someone's already done this soooooooo...Empennage(HS)
Ralph: The second part of that sentence is the key, "leaving just a flat tongue". The aft surface of the front spar has to be flat to mate with the F681. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A tail strobe
Date: Nov 20, 2001
I used the light bezel as a template to cut the big hole for the light and drill the little holes for the screws. Then, I took a pair of #4 locknuts, and assembled the screws that were included with the light to the nuts (as if the light were in place). Next, I mixed up a handy-dandy batch of JB Weld and made a fillet of it all over the nuts (it helps to smear some Vaseline on the ends of the screws. After the JB Weld sets up, the nuts are bonded into the rudder bottom. Quick and easy. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting) >From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv6-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: RV6A tail strobe >Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:37:57 -0600 > > >I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the >rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not see >an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who has >done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? >Thanks: >Doyal Plute > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
02:17:16 PM When getting dressed to go out you ask you wife, "honey what color of primer stain goes with these pants"? And you have many colors to choose from. Living room furniture is avante guard modern aluminum Shirts are more valued for their clean rag status than as articles of clothing The compressor kicks on at 4:00 AM and it does not phase you, nor does the kick from the wife. You really don't understand why your building buddy keeps bringing up the matching holes in the palms of his hands. "Ok, Ok, Jim, now just hold this here for a sec would ya?" Work starts an hour after you get to work (except Mondays, more like Tenish) The damn dog insist on scratching out the aluminum chips from his coat right in front of the wife. "If ya can't take the chips, stay out of the garrage Fido". Nothing puts a gleam in your eye like a fresh sharpie. You thumb through Flying magazine in the doctors office without the slightest intention of reading any of that dribble. "Look honey, the new 172's are on sale for under $300,000" Boy thats $2500.00 a knott vs. $350 a knott for a new RV. Oh, like you are not always trying to find ways to justify your habit to yourself. P-lease! You'd rather read the latest installment of the primer war rather than the newspaper. (Epoxy Rules). YOUR GREATEST FEAR IN LIFE WOULD BE THE SHAME OF KNOWING THE LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS CAME OUT WITHOUT YOUR NAME ON IT. For Shame! ....and I could go on and on but enough about me. Eric Henson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Van's Mapbox Kit
I just checked mine and it is 0.020. Yeah, I know, that's an odd size. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: 'lectric Flaps
eric, the motor is designed to stop pushing or pulling at the end of its travel limits. it does continue to freewheel at the end of each cycle. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Regarding the heat shielding material that Van's now sells... I have just seen this today, and sadly I must say, it is not as high a quality as what is available from other sources. I bought mine from Design Engineering through the Martel Brothers Web site: http://www.martelbros.com/ Go down the left side nav bar and click on Design Engineering. All this company makes is heat shielding, and it comes several ways. It is a fiberglass cloth with an aluminum impregnation. You can get it with an adhesive backing or without. I just got some and it is great stuff, and, looks to be significantly better material than what Van's sells for this application (having compared them myself). Here is a quote from their product insert: "Designed with many uses in mind, Heat Screen is capable of withstanding direct heat up to 1000 degrees F. on one side, while protecting against radiant heat up to 2000 degrees F. on the "aluminized" side." I bought the sticky stuff, and it is on this page under their marketing name of "Reflect-A-Cool". Jim Tampa FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: Fuel Flow Monitors
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Listers, I have had a DPS Fuel Watch System that I had acquired from a salvaged aircraft a few years ago and was looking for a manual on the unit so I could install it in my RV6A. I have finally found the company that bought out the rights from DPS to manufacture the unit. These units were very popular with the Velocity builders and were available through the Velocity catalog. The owner tells me that a lot of the Grumman owners have them installed. The unit is a fuel flow monitor , tracks fuel quantity. fuel remaining, etc. Price on the units is $525 including the Flowscan transducer. He guarantees the electronics for 3 years and the transducer for 2 years. If you compare what is out there in the market now, this is a pretty good price for the unit. The owner of the company tells me these units are on Warbirds, the Bede Micro Jet, and other engines with up to 300hp. The website for the company is http:\\freeweb.pdq.nwt/dma contact: DMA Instruments 14902 Forest Lodge Drive Houston, TX 77070 The owners is Gene Plazak Ed Cole RV6A N2169D Flying RV6A N648RV Finishing Maxim Home Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com Products Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm New Products: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm Datasheets: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm The information contained in this message is confidential and may be legally privileged. The message is intended solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination, or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Monitors
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Correct web address: http://freeweb.pdq.net/dma/ Rob Acker (RV-6) > > The website for the company is http:\\freeweb.pdq.nwt/dma ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Hartzell AD
Listers, There is a new AD on the HC-C2YK-1BF props we use on our 360 powered RV's. Seems the hubs have been cracking and shedding props on a few aircraft. You might want to check this out http://av-info.faa.gov/ad/PublishedADs/012308.html for the latest on our props. Hartzellpropeller.com has the SB which lays out the inspection process. A friend of mine gave me the heads up on this and then later found out his prop is affected. Van's has been notified so I should think they will post something on their web site. I'll be checking mine this evening during the oil change Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: You might be an RV builder if...
You go into shed (shop) after dinner for and hour or two, and have to sneek in like a mongrel dog to face she who must be obeyed at one, two, or three in the morning. Les Rowles. Traralgon Australia. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell AD
My quick take on the AD this morning was that it involves only 'A' flange props. In other words, HC-C2YA props (for which the fix is a 'B' flange), not our trusty HC-C2YK props ('K' flange). If this is not correct, please advise. Ken Balch Gary Zilik wrote: > > Listers, > > There is a new AD on the HC-C2YK-1BF props we use on our 360 powered > RV's. Seems the hubs have been cracking and shedding props on a few > aircraft. > > You might want to check this out > http://av-info.faa.gov/ad/PublishedADs/012308.html > for the latest on our props. Hartzellpropeller.com has the SB which > lays out the inspection process. A friend of mine gave me the heads up > on this and then later found out his prop is affected. Van's has been > notified so I should think they will post something on their web site. > > I'll be checking mine this evening during the oil change > > Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: new e-mail address
Date: Nov 20, 2001
My new e-mail address is cgalley(at)qcbc.org as the other ISP decided to drop service. If your address book has the old "accessus" URL that I used for over 7 years, please update your records. Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com Cy Galley - www.qcbc.org Webmaster Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org Cy Galley - Treasurer, Mississippi Valley Region of the AACA www.aaca.org/mvr - Webmaster Cy Galley - webmaster EAA Chapter 75 http://members.tripod.com/~EAA_Chapter_75 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Shielded wire...
Bill All my wire ( 1, 2 & 3 wire shielded) was free!!! It pays to have a friend (RV4 builder Jody Edwards) who works for Raytheon! Charlie Kuss > > What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? > > -Bill VonDane > Colorado Springs, CO > RV-8A - N8VD > http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > mailto:bill(at)vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Re: RV6A tail strobe
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I Epoxied 2 trimed nutplates & remove the light to service. Just not much room in there. Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A Arlington, Tx ****************************** writes: > > I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the > rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not > see > an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who > has > done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? > Thanks: > Doyal Plute > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Shielded wire...
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Hey Jody---send me a private email--I'll send you my address!!! Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... Bill All my wire ( 1, 2 & 3 wire shielded) was free!!! It pays to have a friend (RV4 builder Jody Edwards) who works for Raytheon! Charlie Kuss > > What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? > > -Bill VonDane > Colorado Springs, CO > RV-8A - N8VD > http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > mailto:bill(at)vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net>
Subject: Re: Builders logs.
Date: Nov 20, 2001
Subject: Builders logs. I have a friend considering the purchase of an almost complete RV. The seller has bought the airframe in its present condition and has never worked on it. There are no builders logs. My understanding of the regs is that it is necessary to have these to demonstrate that the 51% rule has been complied with. Obviously having the Repairmans Cerificate is desirable so if you a buy a partly completed kit without logs is there a way of still qualifying for this? Your input needed. Thanks. Rob RV9A N919RV resvd. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com>
Subject: For Sale RV-8 Project
Date: Nov 20, 2001
For Sale!!!! RV-8 Project,Illinois, Empennage 100% complete including fiberglass,flaps and ailerons 100% complete. Left wing in fixture with skins drilled, right wing ready for fixture. Exceptional workmanship. Call (217) 496-2652 Lee Beare or Mark Phillips (mphill(at)gcctv.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Question for Mike Nellis and others re: pitot tube hardware
I'm posting this to the List because I thought it would be a good thing to have in the archives (couldn't find the answer there). This concerns the fittings and tubing that connect the poly-flow tubing to the pitot tube...questions go in the direction from the pitot tube...I'm having a few problems figuring out how to ensure everything stays connected. - Do you use anything like Loctite or pipe tape under the threads of the AN-818 nuts? - There's a section of aluminum tube between the AN-818 nuts on the pitot tube and the nylon nuts/fittings. How do you secure the aluminum tube to the nuts so the tube doesn't fall out? - Do you use anything like Loctite or pipe tape under the threads between the MS20822 elbow and the nylon female connector? - Finally, do you need anything else (glue, etc) to keep the poly-flow tubing in place inside the nylon female connector, or is the nylon insert sufficient? Guess that's enough crayon-level questions for tonite...I'm going to go out to the garage and ponder the spacing of the tank ribs on the baffle...brain-straining stuff... John RV-6 (mundane stuff on the left wing) You might be an RV builder if...your significant other says you spend too much time perusing the Wicks catalog for YOU, and not enough time perusing the Victoria's Secret catalog for HER. - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Baffled by Cooling
Date: Nov 20, 2001
I would think management of the "cylinder exit gap" described by Gary below would be an important variable in controlling cylinder cooling, yet no one seems to mess with. This is on my to-do list but admittedly quite a ways down. When I pointed out the varied gaps to Van's staffers they kind of turned red and said that the baffle kit "wasn't engineered in-house". Hmm, makes me suspect room for improvement. Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com > The under cylinder baffle wrap-around spacing is important to cooling also. > Kent Paser, in his Book "Speed With Economy" determined through testing > that the under cylinder head gap should be 2.25 inches. The under barrel > gap should be 7/8-1.0" This was an O-320. I measured up a new Lancair 360 > the other day and they used 2.0" under the head and 1.5" under the > barrel(mid 300's F, NW summers). > > You can get close by using the Lycoming provided center baffle and noting > the edge to center of the barrel distance. Compare your wrap distance to > the center from the other side. I think you will find that the 'Baffle Kit" > gives a wide variety of gaps that don't make much sense given the typical > temps that people find (unless something changed). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle/cowling painting?
Date: Nov 20, 2001
> > I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to paint the baffles & > > cowling interior with a high-temp, gloss white paint. > > DEFINITELY FILL and PAINT the inside of the cowl. You don't want oil soaking > into it through the pinholes. > > I used a few coats of sanding primer to fill, then shot it with high-temp > paint ("Hot Stuff" rattle-can paint, from an auto parts store). Probably not > the best paint to use but its holding up well. > > BE SURE to also put some heat shielding on your cowl! I got some heat damage > before I did this and I know some others have as well. Seems to be more of > an issue with the newer epoxy cowls than the polyester. Van's now stocks > heat shielding material. See > http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/maintenance.html for more. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) > Portland, OR > www.vanshomewing.org Ditto Randall's remarks. Since I painted my airplane though I just used the same techniques/materials (PPG Concept) to finish the inside. Can't speak to the rattle can stuff, but if Randall had good luck with it I'd use it. Gary Graham, Randall, and I all encouraged Van's to stock the new adhesive backed foil they now carry... it's good stuff and works VERY well. I highly recommend it. Also, a finished surface on the side of the cowl not only prevents all that oil & stuff from soaking in, but helps you spot leaks and allows easy cleanup. Regarding baffling: I'd anodize it or leave it. I think paint would scratch way too much and in general be a hassle. Personally, mine is raw. Also, consider that you will likely be replacing bits of baffling as it wears. Lastly, here's a tip from Gary Graham's very smart dog Pugsley: smear a thin coating of high-temp RTV on the inside of your baffling anywhere it contacts the cylinder fins... helps prevent the fins from wearing through. Don't know for sure if it works yet but it sure made sense to me so I did it when re-installing my baffling after a cylinder swap. Randy Lervold, RV-8 N558RL, 140 hrs www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV6-List: RV6A tail strobe
Date: Nov 20, 2001
I threaded the ends of two 1/4" dia, 1" long aluminum rods for 4-40 screws. Then I roughed up the outsides of them, screwed them to the mounting holes of the lamp and after taping the outside of the lamp to keep the resin from sticking to it, potted the whole works into the fairing with cabosil-filled polyester resin. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of doyal plute Subject: RV6-List: RV6A tail strobe --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute I am ready to install the Whelan tail strobe on my RV6A. I have the rudder with the cutout on the bottom for the light, however I do not see an easy way of installing the light. Will someone out there who has done the tail strobe give me some ideas as how it was done? Thanks: Doyal Plute ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 20, 2001
> I have just seen this today, and sadly I must say, it is not as high a > quality as what is available from other sources. I bought mine from > Design Engineering through the Martel Brothers Web site: [snip] I'm sure there is better stuff than what Van's sells, but I think it does the job quite adequately and is probably the lightest weight solution. Also it's very easy to install. I'm sure you can go as far as you want here, just not sure its necessary. Of course, time will tell.... Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2001
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Michael Brown...
Hi Listers, In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has generously offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making Contributions of $30 or more this year! Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure Credit Card Contribution Web Site at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or by sending a personal check Contribution to: Matronics Email Lists c/o Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site or Catalog." The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List Contribution and is according to the following: $100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate! or $30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate! ==================== How To Receive Your Certificate =================== To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to: browntooloffer(at)matronics.com and include the following information: 1) Subject Line: Tool Offer 2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25) 3) [Your Name] 4) [Your Mailing Address] 5) [Your City, State Zip] ** Please only use the email address shown above ( browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate! *** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for the Gift Certificate! ==================== How To Receive Your Certificate =================== You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks. I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools. And finally, I would like to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution in this year's Fund Raiser! Its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and NOT ADVERTISING and FLASHING BANNER ADS... Thank you!! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: You might be an RV builder if...
Naaawwwwwwwwwwwwwww....you're kidding...hmmmmmmm...then again, maybe not... > ...you've ever seen a Glasiair builder using channel locks for a rivet > squeezer, and laughed at him before offering the proper tool. ...you finally buy that digital camera for taking family photos that your significant other has been bugging you about, knowing secretly that you actually bought it to use on your project and at fly-ins. John RV-6 (left wing...gonna walk thru the garage on my way out to the car, to look at Dwg #18a and see howinthehell I missed the detail on the holes for the tank rib flanges...dimple 'em, too?) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: The end of the rainbow.......
Yesterday I had a tough choice. Either drive 16 hrs. round trip or fly my RV-6 to get my daughter home from college for Thanksgiving. Guess which one I chose. Instead of driving 700 miles (at right angles) I flew 550 miles round trip in the RV. Smooth as glass at altitude and talking to center the whole way. It was a beautiful flight. KEEP BUILDING--IT WILL BE WORTH IT SOMEDAY!!!!!!!!!!!! http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Injection vs Carb
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Why does fuel injection not require an air scoop? Is it that the prseeure of the fuel injection provides sifficient air for combustion. Does fuel injection require as much air as a carburator. Steve Kingston, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <skybolt(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell AD
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Concerning the new AD on Hartzell props, the AD applies to the hub. Additional information and clarification can be found at the Hartzell website. Go to http://www.hartzellprop.com/product_support/sitelinks_servdocs.htm and select HC-SB-61-227 Rev.2. which is the service bulletin referenced in the AD. Page 4 of the 26 page service bulletin has a diagram which shows the various hub designs and serial number location. Howard Williamson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
"Aaron Hughston"
Subject: For Sale
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Posting for a friend For Sale 1) completed RV-8 Tail Kit #1000 Asking $1400 2) RMI u-Encoder and u-Monitor. Both are assembled and tested. Comes with EGT & CHT probes and the gimbaled Compass attachment. Asking $2591 for both. Location is So. Cal. Contact Aaron Hughston @ vne200(at)hotmail.com Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Vertical stabilizer strobe
Can someone shed some light on how they mounted their vertical stab strobe? I have the whelen A625 model and the bezel looks to wide to install directly. Did you have to make a custom faring or special mounting bracket? Thanks, Gary Gunn RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Looking for an engine
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Before starting what will probably be a long and opinionated thread, I checked the archives. The last post was back in 1999, so I decided to fan the flames again. I am beginning a search for a mid-time O-320 for my RV-6A. (My budget says "no new engines", thus the pre-owned one.) I have reasoned that many completions have been achieved since the last time an engine search was archived, so I guess a lot of folks out there have acquired a used engine that performs to their satisfaction. What I would like to know is if anybody (particularly those in the Midwest) can recommend a source of supply that they are happy with. Conversely, please let me know of any outfits to stay away from. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: New props need home
Listers: I have just listed two NEW props on e-bay. The first is a Felix wood prop. It is a 72", 83 pitch with all hubs, crushplate and bolts. Go to the following page for the item.... http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1667013154 The second NEW prop is a Sensenich, metal, 72", 83 pitch with spacer/hub, bolts and logbook. Go to..... http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1666617314 I ran these by the list about 6 months ago and just got a bunch of comments. Now I am pressed to sell as my wife is ready to kick me and all these aircraft part out of the house!!! You have all been there! Thanks for looking Dave Aronson RV-4 N504RV Electrical system to finish then I fly!!!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 21, 2001
> > I have just seen this today, and sadly I must say, it is not as high a > > quality as what is available from other sources. I bought mine from > > Design Engineering through the Martel Brothers Web site: > [snip] > > I'm sure there is better stuff than what Van's sells, but I think it does > the job quite adequately and is probably the lightest weight solution. Also > it's very easy to install. I'm sure you can go as far as you want here, just > not sure its necessary. Of course, time will tell.... > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.vanshomewing.org Ditto Randall's comments. I can put my hand on the outside of my lower cowl where the shielding is immediately after a flight and it is barely warm. Randy Lervold, RV-8 N558RL, 140 hrs. www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for an engine
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>
I am interested also in this type of discussion, since I am at a point where I need to order the finish kit from Van's for my -8A but need to know the engine before ordering. I'm not opposed to a new engine, but I'm thinking about is a O-360 to which I can add electronic ignition and fuel injection. I guess I would prefer a run-out or close to run-out O-360 that can be rebuilt or simply purchase a QUALITY rebuilt. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Todd Wenzel Delafield, WI RV-8AQB - Fuse mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bower [mailto:rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com] Subject: RV-List: Looking for an engine Before starting what will probably be a long and opinionated thread, I checked the archives. The last post was back in 1999, so I decided to fan the flames again. I am beginning a search for a mid-time O-320 for my RV-6A. (My budget says "no new engines", thus the pre-owned one.) I have reasoned that many completions have been achieved since the last time an engine search was archived, so I guess a lot of folks out there have acquired a used engine that performs to their satisfaction. What I would like to know is if anybody (particularly those in the Midwest) can recommend a source of supply that they are happy with. Conversely, please let me know of any outfits to stay away from. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting) = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry M Rhea" <rv6larry(at)dslextreme.com>
Subject: Re: Shielded wire...
Date: Nov 21, 2001
I hope Jody still has a job after this reply. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... > > Bill > All my wire ( 1, 2 & 3 wire shielded) was free!!! It pays to have a friend > (RV4 builder Jody Edwards) who works for Raytheon! > Charlie Kuss > > > > > What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? > > > > -Bill VonDane > > Colorado Springs, CO > > RV-8A - N8VD > > http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > mailto:bill(at)vondane.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: RV Solo
Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight over 17 months ago. Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired her instructor and started a search for another one. In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since there was metal everywhere. Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV grin ever. Gary Zilik Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn to fly in the Family RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com>
Subject: RV Solo
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Does she have a sister? :-) Brad RV6AQB... -----Original Message----- From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)bewellnet.com] Subject: RV-List: RV Solo Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight over 17 months ago. Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired her instructor and started a search for another one. In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since there was metal everywhere. Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV grin ever. Gary Zilik Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn to fly in the Family RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shielded wire...
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
03:19:09 PM The wire came from the dumpster after a King Air was gutted. We are the vandals, not Jody. Jody is merely guilty of knowing us, which is probably punishment enough. Eric (swimmin in sketti) Henson "Larry M Rhea" (at)matronics.com on 11/21/2001 06:23:32 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... I hope Jody still has a job after this reply. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... > > Bill > All my wire ( 1, 2 & 3 wire shielded) was free!!! It pays to have a friend > (RV4 builder Jody Edwards) who works for Raytheon! > Charlie Kuss > > > > > What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? > > > > -Bill VonDane > > Colorado Springs, CO > > RV-8A - N8VD > > http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > mailto:bill(at)vondane.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Looking for an engine
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Todd & Jim, I know this will start another one of those heated debates, but I visit Wentworth Aircraft on a regular basis to scrounge up cheap parts. They have literally Hundreds upon Hundreds of engines in their wharehouse. There are several rows, stacked floor to ceiling with engines. Everything from C85's to IO-720's, TCM, Franklin's, and MANY Lyc's. If you look at their website they list some of the lower time ones for sale. I even saw a Big Block Chevy from the burnt S-51 mustang they had there. I've found Wentworth to be wonderful to deal with, as long as you don't try to barter too much. Many of their engines are from planes that are hail damaged, flipped on the ground during a storm, hangar collapse, fires, etc.. Some of them are from crashes, but they will let you look at the logs and the photos from the rest of the plane. They usually dial the crank themselves and won't knowingly sell you a bum engine. Steve is well aware of the bogus parts laws, and for this reason they do not sell or re-use many parts of the plane (Prop Bolts, etc..) They have the tail numbers from each engine, so you can look up the NTSB damage report yourself and double check their info. %99.9 they are accurate. I have spent too many dollars their buying all kinds of goodies! It's like going to Home Depot for Airplanes! Take a look at their website, and give them a call. It can't hurt! http://www.wentworthaircraft.com Best Regards, Stein Bruch. RV6 Finishing, MSP. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wenzel Subject: RE: RV-List: Looking for an engine <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com> I am interested also in this type of discussion, since I am at a point where I need to order the finish kit from Van's for my -8A but need to know the engine before ordering. I'm not opposed to a new engine, but I'm thinking about is a O-360 to which I can add electronic ignition and fuel injection. I guess I would prefer a run-out or close to run-out O-360 that can be rebuilt or simply purchase a QUALITY rebuilt. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Todd Wenzel Delafield, WI RV-8AQB - Fuse mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bower [mailto:rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com] Subject: RV-List: Looking for an engine Before starting what will probably be a long and opinionated thread, I checked the archives. The last post was back in 1999, so I decided to fan the flames again. I am beginning a search for a mid-time O-320 for my RV-6A. (My budget says "no new engines", thus the pre-owned one.) I have reasoned that many completions have been achieved since the last time an engine search was archived, so I guess a lot of folks out there have acquired a used engine that performs to their satisfaction. What I would like to know is if anybody (particularly those in the Midwest) can recommend a source of supply that they are happy with. Conversely, please let me know of any outfits to stay away from. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting) = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV Solo
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Better yet.... Carolyn, if you ever get tired of Gary ...... ;-) -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Solo Does she have a sister? :-) Brad RV6AQB... -----Original Message----- From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)bewellnet.com] Subject: RV-List: RV Solo Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight over 17 months ago. Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired her instructor and started a search for another one. In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since there was metal everywhere. Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV grin ever. Gary Zilik Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn to fly in the Family RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: : Looking for an engine
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Unless you can or have a friend that is an engine man, I would get a new one from Vans. Next I would go with the Aero Sport people. If you find a 7K run out you can end up with a 12K motor that may or may not be as good of an OH than Barts. Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A Arlington, Tx ****************************** writes: > > Before starting what will probably be a long and opinionated thread, > I > checked the archives. The last post was back in 1999, so I decided > to fan > the flames again. > > I am beginning a search for a mid-time O-320 for my RV-6A. (My > budget says > "no new engines", thus the pre-owned one.) I have reasoned that > many > completions have been achieved since the last time an engine search > was > archived, so I guess a lot of folks out there have acquired a used > engine > that performs to their satisfaction. > > What I would like to know is if anybody (particularly those in the > Midwest) > can recommend a source of supply that they are happy with. > Conversely, > please let me know of any outfits to stay away from. > > Jim Bower > St. Louis, MO > RV-6A N143DJ > Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: RV Solo
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Don't do it Carolyn!!! Scott's got a 4... and I KNOW HE don't ride in the back. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Solo > > Better yet.... Carolyn, if you ever get tired of Gary ...... ;-) > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com] > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Solo > > > Does she have a sister? :-) > > Brad > RV6AQB... > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)bewellnet.com] > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV Solo > > > Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to > express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have > to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight > over 17 months ago. > > Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When > she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck > in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and > again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she > was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was > getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she > was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired > her instructor and started a search for another one. > > In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to > learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. > We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as > Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. > The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since > there was metal everywhere. > > Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and > she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how > proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV > grin ever. > > > Gary Zilik > > Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn > to fly in the Family RV. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV Solo
Carolyn, welcome to the fraternity of RV pilots. What a great day for you. My sincerest congratulations to you, Carolyn for your diligance, and Gary for letting your wife take off in the RV with out you. (Now that's confidence)! Next time we fly to the Bahamas, I'll get to see Carolyn in the left seat, and your RV will be much better looking from that side from now on ;-) See you guys soon, and congratulations again. Laird (Now it must be Vicki's turn, huh Jimmy ;-) From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Nov 21, 2001 12:04 PM Subject: RV-List: RV Solo Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight over 17 months ago. Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired her instructor and started a search for another one. In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since there was metal everywhere. Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV grin ever. Gary Zilik Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn to fly in the Family RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV Solo
> >Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to >express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have >to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight >over 17 months ago. Yep, can't wait for Diana to get there. After spending a hundred hours in the back of the -4 she watched Van demonstrate the -9A. She says I want one of those. ..Okay.. I said. She "graduated" from Henry Gorgas' sheet metal class last week and had some fine looking parts to show for it. The -9A tail is in the garage. She has ground school and 16 frustrating hours in a 150 under her belt and says she will finish when we get the -9A built. Mike (answer: because I get to keep the -4) Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR 13B in gestation mode ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Thanksgiving
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Pugsley is alive and well and wishes ya-all a "Happy Thanksgiving"; and so do I. Gary _______ \/)"(\/ (_o_) ruff!!!!!! / \/) (| | | |) oo-oo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Looking for an engine
Jim: A good source for engines is Bobby Osborn in Mineral Wells TX , PH 940 682 4220 He has used engines and will work with you to get the engine you want. I bought a 0 320 D2J out of a C172 and he gave me another ass case that uses the fuel pump and asked me to send the old one back after I got it apart. Good Man and fair. Might give him a call. Terry E. Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Looking for an engine
In a message dated 11/21/01 6:06:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, TColeE(at)aol.com writes: << Jim: A good source for engines is Bobby Osborn in Mineral Wells TX , PH 940 682 4220 He has used engines and will work with you to get the engine you want. I bought a 0 320 D2J out of a C172 and he gave me another ass case that uses the fuel pump and asked me to send the old one back after I got it apart. Good Man and fair. Might give him a call. Terry E. Cole >> I second this recommendation. I got an engine from Bobby and was very pleased with what I recieved. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection vs Carb
> >Why does fuel injection not require an air scoop? >Is it that the prseeure of the fuel injection provides >sifficient air for combustion. Does fuel injection require >as much air as a carburator. > >Steve >Kingston, Ont > Fuel injection doesn't require an air scoop if you are using Van's intake snorkel with an IO-360A series on an RV-7/7A or -8/8A. That is because Van come up with a nice installation that has a large rectangular air filter on the bottom floor of the LH cooling air inlet. There is a long curving duct that routes this air to the fuel injector air inlet. The air is subjected to the same ram air pressure increase you would get from a "normal" air scoop. The induction path is a bit longer, so there is probably a bit greater pressure loss, but the drag is lower, so the speed vs power works out the same or better. The fuel injector on the IO-360A series is on the front of the oil sump, not hanging off the bottom of the oil sump like most Lyc carbureted engines. If your engine has a carburetor or fuel injector hanging below the oil sump you'll need an air scoop because there won't be enough clearance between the air inlet and the cowling to do anything else. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: How I lost 1.5 Quarts of Oil in 15 Minutes
After landing following a short flight on Sunday, I saw a few drops of oil on the ground under the aircraft. Once I rolled it into my hangar, took a look at the belly, and it was COVERED in oil... I pulled the dipstick (which was just sitting there loose, not screwed in??), and checked the oil level - down from 6 quarts to 4.5 quarts.. I thought this wasn't good, even though there had been no signs of a problem from the engine instruments. Next, a buddy and I pulled the cowl, took a look, and it was obvious that all of the oil had come out of the breather tube. I thougth this was BAD. I was thinking big $. Several days and quite a bit of troubleshooting later (I called textron/lycoming, did a compression check, etc), my favorite AI and I had found nothing major wrong. The folks at Lycoming did ask how my breather was installed, and pointed out that my breather hose exit was beviled the wrong way - it draws a vacuum in the airstream, and should be installed to AVOID drawing a vacuum. When I went over this with my AI, we discussed the breather tube, and I brought up the fact that the oil filler cap was completly loose. He said.. That's it - You had a breather tube drawing a vacuum through the engine, and with the oil cap off, there was a path for the vacuum to pull air throught the engine, and this vacuum had sucked 1.5 quarts out in 15 minutes... I added a quart of oil, put the filler cap on correctly, went flying, and vola-no oil on the belly. Lesson learned. Glad it was on a short flight, not on a cross-country. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: COMANCHE180(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Builders logs.
PLEASE REMOVE COMANCHE180(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
I was thinking of painting the top cowl flat black as I was hoping to have a military paint scheme. I pretty well thought it was a bad idea in that the combination of heat-soaking after shutdown and the high surface temperatures possible with this paint color in the sun might raise the "S" cowl's temperature high enough for it to reach a plastic state and it might sag. Does the performance of this heat shield mean this paint idea might still be possible to do? Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting) > > > > I have just seen this today, and sadly I must say, it is not as high a > > > quality as what is available from other sources. I bought mine from > > > Design Engineering through the Martel Brothers Web site: > > [snip] > > > > I'm sure there is better stuff than what Van's sells, but I think it does > > the job quite adequately and is probably the lightest weight solution. > Also > > it's very easy to install. I'm sure you can go as far as you want here, > just > > not sure its necessary. Of course, time will tell.... > > > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) > > Portland, OR > > http://www.vanshomewing.org > > > Ditto Randall's comments. I can put my hand on the outside of my lower cowl > where the shielding is immediately after a flight and it is barely warm. > > Randy Lervold, RV-8 N558RL, 140 hrs. > www.rv-8.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul D. Franzon" <paulf(at)ncsu.edu>
Subject: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Date: Nov 21, 2001
I am about to join the ranks of RV-4 owners and am looking for a RV type specific insurance checkout. Can anyone please direct me to a CFI with an airplane who can help? I live in Raleigh NC but can travel for the checkout. I am aware of the Vans-recommended training in Oregon but he has a 6-week wait list and I it is best not to be too hopeful of OR weather in Dec. Any leads are welcome, including if you simply know of someone who was20 recently checked out. Thanks, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv6238(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Sratus pump fittings
Hi Folks, I have not been able to locate fittings to connect my Stratus vacuum pump to the vacuum lines. By chance I do have some Nylo-Seal fittings that will thread into the inlet/outlet of the pump but am not sure whether the nylon fittings are suitable for vacuum pumps. Any info is greatly appreciated. Happy Thanksgiving fellow builders. Bill Griffin RV6 Balto. MD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Builders logs.
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Rob, Getting the aricraft certificated will probably not be a problem as it is well known that all RVs meet the 51% rule. Where you most likely to have a problem is the Repairman's Certificate. Has the 'N' number been issued to this aircraft yet. If not then all you need to do is register your name under that kit number with Van's and that will take care of the certification problem for the plane. When you are ready to get the aircraft registered, you will get a Bill of Sale from Van's and submit that to the FAA along with the registration application. For the repairman's certificate get as many pictures of the aircraft during the rest of the building process with you in the pictures. And start a builder's log from this point on. That should work but no guarantees. If you have any other questins give me a shout. Mike Robertson Das Fed RV-8A >From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Re: Builders logs. >Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:46:16 -0800 > > >Subject: Builders logs. > >I have a friend considering the purchase of an almost complete RV. The >seller has bought the airframe in its present condition and has never >worked >on it. There are no builders logs. >My understanding of the regs is that it is necessary to have these to >demonstrate that the 51% rule has been complied with. Obviously having the >Repairmans Cerificate is desirable so if you a buy a partly completed kit >without logs is there a way of still qualifying for this? >Your input needed. >Thanks. >Rob >RV9A N919RV resvd. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Date: Nov 21, 2001
I would call the EAA as they probably have a list of CFIs that will do transition flights and check outs. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul D. Franzon" <paulf(at)ncsu.edu> Subject: RV-List: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout I am about to join the ranks of RV-4 owners and am looking for a RV type specific insurance checkout. Can anyone please direct me to a CFI with an airplane who can help? I live in Raleigh NC but can travel for the checkout. I am aware of the Vans-recommended training in Oregon but he has a 6-week wait list and I it is best not to be too hopeful of OR weather in Dec. Any leads are welcome, including if you simply know of someone who was20 recently checked out. Thanks, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2001
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Shielded wire...
Larry No A&Ps were harmed during the making of any of these emails or the acts described therein. Actually, the field replacement harnesses that Raytheon supplies are longer than usually needed. (They make them for the longest "stretch" model) The A&Ps would save this extra wire for those times when "I need a little more". When the collection grew to 3 very large boxes (in excess of 100 pounds) the foreman told them to give it the "heave ho". Jody called me and asked if I wanted it. ....... Of course I said yes. No RV builder in SE Florida will need any 20, 22 or 26 gauge shielded or unshielded Tefzel wire for several years. I gave away all the excess to the locals. Charlie Kuss > > I hope Jody still has a job after this reply. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... > > > > > Bill > > All my wire ( 1, 2 & 3 wire shielded) was free!!! It pays to have a friend > > (RV4 builder Jody Edwards) who works for Raytheon! > > Charlie Kuss > > > > > > > > What's the best price on 3 strand shielded wire you all have found? > > > > > > -Bill VonDane > > > Colorado Springs, CO > > > RV-8A - N8VD > > > http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > > mailto:bill(at)vondane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Shielded wire...
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Thanks to this list, and the GREAT people on this list, I too will have some free wire! Thanks Frank! -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire... Larry No A&Ps were harmed during the making of any of these emails or the acts described therein. Actually, the field replacement harnesses that Raytheon supplies are longer than usually needed. (They make them for the longest "stretch" model) The A&Ps would save this extra wire for those times when "I need a little more". When the collection grew to 3 very large boxes (in excess of 100 pounds) the foreman told them to give it the "heave ho". Jody called me and asked if I wanted it. ....... Of course I said yes. No RV builder in SE Florida will need any 20, 22 or 26 gauge shielded or unshielded Tefzel wire for several years. I gave away all the excess to the locals. Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Traffic proximity alert system
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Hello listers Sorry I posted the wrong web address for the TPAS system,please try www.surecheckaviation.com and let me know and the list what you thick. Cheers Bruno RV-4 C-GDBH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Subject: Suction Gage
I have a used 2-1/4"suction gage that I'm having trouble hooking a hose to. The threaded ports on the back appear to be between 1/4"and 1/8" NPT fitting sizes.The tag on the back reads: GAGE, SUCTION MS28061-T 4 AERO PRECISION IND. INC FMC 15017 Does the suction gage require some kind of special fitting, or do I have one that's European/metric or something? Chris Brooks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Progress Report
I've finally got actual progress to report on my RV-3 project. I bought the tail kit from Van's about 2-1/2 years ago. Today, with the help of my brother, I finished riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer. It came out looking great with no significant problems. At this rate, I'll be ordering the wing kit within a year or two! Rod Woodard Northern Colorado RV-3 #11339 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Listers, I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared to the O320. Thanks Richard Luster rlluster(at)msn.com Marysville, WA RV9, fuse 80% complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Date: Nov 21, 2001
Pros: More horsepower, inverted flight, altitude capability (all I can think of) Cost, maintenance, overhaul, hot starts, complexity. Since you are building a -9 I guess performance is not that high on your priority scale. (although the -9 without fuel injection still beats the pants of most spam cans) I would keep it simple and go with the carburated engine. If you were building a Rocket or an -8, I'd say go for the injected. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 > > Listers, > > I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears> Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared> to the O320. > > Thanks > > Richard Luster > rlluster(at)msn.com > Marysville, WA > RV9, fuse 80% complete > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 21, 2001
A flat black surface can reach close to 250 degrees Fahrenheit on a hot summer day while sitting on the ground in still air. No problem while flying. Many epoxies soften at much lower temperatures, so even without the engine heat, the cowling could be in trouble if painted black. Softening can occur in the 160 degree range, a little higher if the finished part has been post-cured. The epoxy manufacturers have different standards for determining temperatures at which the cured epoxy softens, distorts, or whatever. You would probably have to talk to Van's to get the cowling manufacturer's info. Let us know what the results are if you contact them. Maybe somebody else on the list will already have this info. Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A Victoria BC Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting) > > I was thinking of painting the top cowl flat black as I was hoping to have a > military paint scheme. I pretty well thought it was a bad idea in that the ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Golf Bags and Skis
Date: Nov 22, 2001
I was looking at a mod to carry golf bags in a 6/7/9 by Dave Ford at http://members7.clubphoto.com/dave493645/553869/guest.phtml when I thought, gee, I could have done this as well as the ski compartment I have in my 6A. See mine at http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/BuilderMods/NormanHunger/luggagecompartment_skirack.htm I figure that mine will carry one big golf bag or two mid sized bags. Dave's looks bigger. Mine goes back to the tail for really big ski's which is why it's floor is at the level of the longerons. The longer skis need to be up there to get loaded with my tip up canopy. Both sites hosted on Doug's most excellent site, thanks again Doug. Anyhow, nice work Dave. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Why do you say "more horsepower"? I believe Lycoming claims 160 hp for both the O-320 and IO-320 (assuming the high compression versions). Sure, the IO-360A and C series make 20 hp more than the O-360, but those engines have a lot of differences, not just the fuel injection. The IO-360B series is pretty much identical to the O-360 (except for the fuel injection), and it is a 180 hp engine (according to Lycoming). You may be able to get a bit lower fuel flow with an injected engine, as there could be more even fuel distribution between the various cylinders. Kevin Horton > >Pros: More horsepower, inverted flight, altitude capability (all I can >think of) > >Cost, maintenance, overhaul, hot starts, complexity. > >Since you are building a -9 I guess performance is not that high on your >priority scale. (although the -9 without fuel injection still beats the >pants of most spam cans) I would keep it simple and go with the carburated >engine. If you were building a Rocket or an -8, I'd say go for the >injected. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A N197AB Arizona >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing >Flying >Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software >http://www.kitlog.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> >To: "rv-list" >Subject: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 > > >> >> Listers, >> >> I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears>> Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared>> to the O320. >> >> Thanks >> >> Richard Luster >> rlluster(at)msn.com >> Marysville, WA >> RV9, fuse 80% complete > > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Doug Reeves' Van's Air Force site has a listing. http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/transition_training.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DAVAWALKER(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: RV 7 Elevator spars.
Anyone have prepunched elevators spars that appear to be to long? I find that upon trial assembly the spar tip with tip ribs attached temporarily leaves only 3/8" rather than 1/2" of skin protruding. Also moves the rivet line in toward the web of the tip rib. Might be possible to rivet however I would think 1/2" of exposed skin would be much better for the fiberglass fairing. Any comments would be appreciated. Dale Walker RV7 Empennage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Date: Nov 22, 2001
My fault...I was thinking of the O-360 series. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 > > Why do you say "more horsepower"? I believe Lycoming claims 160 hp > for both the O-320 and IO-320 (assuming the high compression > versions). Sure, the IO-360A and C series make 20 hp more than the > O-360, but those engines have a lot of differences, not just the fuel > injection. The IO-360B series is pretty much identical to the O-360 > (except for the fuel injection), and it is a 180 hp engine (according > to Lycoming). > > You may be able to get a bit lower fuel flow with an injected engine, > as there could be more even fuel distribution between the various > cylinders. > > Kevin Horton > > > > >Pros: More horsepower, inverted flight, altitude capability (all I can > >think of) > > > >Cost, maintenance, overhaul, hot starts, complexity. > > > >Since you are building a -9 I guess performance is not that high on your > >priority scale. (although the -9 without fuel injection still beats the > >pants of most spam cans) I would keep it simple and go with the carburated > >engine. If you were building a Rocket or an -8, I'd say go for the > >injected. > > > >Paul Besing > >RV-6A N197AB Arizona > >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > >Flying > >Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > >http://www.kitlog.com > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> > >To: "rv-list" > >Subject: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 > > > > > >> > >> Listers, > >> > >> I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears> >> Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared> >> to the O320. > >> > >> Thanks > >> > >> Richard Luster > >> rlluster(at)msn.com > >> Marysville, WA > >> RV9, fuse 80% complete > > > > >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-9a vs. RV7a Was: "Pros and cons of IO320 to O320"
Paul: Could I ask you to elaborate? "Since you are building a -9 I guess performance is not that high on your priority scale."? I was trying to wait for an RV10, but am becoming more and more likely to begin a two seater now. So, 7a vs 9a??? Performance is certainly high on my scale... but all airplanes are compromises, so performance to accomplish what mission is the question. Here is how I presently see it... RV9a gives up aerobatics, which I don't really have interest in, in return for what is probably a more stable cross-country platform, which I do have interest in. RV9a with better low speed performance, docile, lower stall speed, and 160kt. cruise with better overall economy (which could add up) . RV7a has 180kt. cruise, but by criteria mentioned above is possibly less stable VFR/IFR cross country machine. 20 kt. faster cruise would be nice, but 160 kt. still much faster than anything on the consumer market until you are spending 200k or so. Also 200 HP needed to get the 180kt cruise in 7a, 160HP needed to get 160 kt cruise in 9a. Well, I'll stop rambling on and listen now. I will appreciate any and all thoughts on 7a vs 9a, (but I guess it's only me who can finally decide to get started, rather than continuing to wait for the RV10). Paul Besing wrote: > > > <<>> > Since you are building a -9 I guess performance is not that high on your > priority scale. (although the -9 without fuel injection still beats the > pants of most spam cans) I would keep it simple and go with the carburated > engine. If you were building a Rocket or an -8, I'd say go for the > injected. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A N197AB Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Flying > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> > To: "rv-list" > Subject: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 > > > > > Listers, > > > > I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears> > Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared> > to the O320. > > > > Thanks > > > > Richard Luster > > rlluster(at)msn.com > > Marysville, WA > > RV9, fuse 80% complete > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-9a vs. RV7a Was: "Pros and cons of IO320 to O320"
In a message dated 11/22/01 10:05:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes: << Here is how I presently see it... RV9a gives up aerobatics, which I don't really have interest in, in return for what is probably a more stable cross-country platform, which I do have interest in. RV9a with better low speed performance, docile, lower stall speed, and 160kt. cruise with better overall economy (which could add up) . RV7a has 180kt. cruise, but by criteria mentioned above is possibly less stable VFR/IFR cross country machine. 20 kt. faster cruise would be nice, but 160 kt. still much faster than anything on the consumer market until you are spending 200k or so. Also 200 HP needed to get the 180kt cruise in 7a, 160HP needed to get 160 kt cruise in 9a. >> I'll jump in here... On 160 hp, the X/C performance between the RV-9 and RV-7 will be identical for all intents and purposes. If you've gotta go 180 knots (and have the bank account to support this speed addiction), or the mission includes aerobatics, the RV-7 is the choice. If your mission is 150-160 knot cross country flying, the RV-9 is probably a better fit for you. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Hi Paul, I can highly recommend John Henley in Baker, FL (a mile or two from the CEW VOR)for a checkout. He's a retired AF Colonel, with a bazillion hours, and is a hell of a nice guy. He's one of those people who's literally more comfortable in a plane that in a car. Anyway, he has a very nice RV-6, and is building an RV-7. I got my RV checkout with him, as did another local RV-8 pilot. I guarantee a pleasant experience if you deal with John. John's email is- rv6plt(at)netzero.net Phone- (850) 609-3175 Good luck, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)- FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project, retrofit 3B wings on order I am about to join the ranks of RV-4 owners and am looking for a RV type specific insurance checkout. Can anyone please direct me to a CFI with an airplane who can help? I live in Raleigh NC but can travel for the checkout. I am aware of the Vans-recommended training in Oregon but he has a 6-week wait list and I it is best not to be too hopeful of OR weather in Dec. Any leads are welcome, including if you simply know of someone who was20 recently checked out. Thanks, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Don't have to worry about carburator icing in fuel injected. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Builders logs.
Date: Nov 22, 2001
problem is the Repairman's Certificate. Has the 'N' number been issued to this aircraft yet. If not then all you need to do is register your name under that kit number with Van's and that will take care of the certification problem for the plane. When you are ready to get the aircraft registered, you will get a Bill of Sale from Van's and submit that to the FAA along with the registration application. ----------------------- I just recently purchased a project, and talked to Tom Green at Van's last week about the Bill of Sale issue. As I understand it, you have to be able to supply a paper trail to Van's that shows the project being sold from the current registered builder, to you. In my case, the original builder was the only previous owner, so I have to give Van's a bill of sale showing that I purchased the project from him. When Van's gets that, they will register me as the current builder, and will issue me an official Kit Bill of Sale when needed. In your friends case, he should find out from Van's who the current registered builder is, and make sure he gets enough bill's of sale to link the plane to him. I have heard of cases where this paper trail couldn't be established, and the completed plane couldn't be registered without some creative paperwork. If in doubt, call Van's before purchase to make sure. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)- FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project, retrofit 3B wings on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: RV-List: Re: Pros and cons of IO320 to O320 >I am looking into the purchase of a Lycomming 320, for an RV9. It appears> Vans recommends a O320. What are the pros and cons of the IO320 compared> to the O320. >Richard Luster Richard: There are several variations of the injected 0320 including a couple that are rated at 150hp. Those engines, and others rated at 160hp have injection units mounted on the bottom of the sump where a carburetor would be placed. There were a number of sump and induction tube variations. The IO320 series also included engines with the Bendix unit mounted on the rear of the sump facing aft, some at an angle and some straight aft. The injection system appears to not include the high pressure lines and nozzles, but acts more like a carburetor with the possible exception of the aft mounted units, which may (I don't know) deliver fuel to the intake ports. Some use type 2 dynafocal mounts a la Twin Comanche. You can check with Van about the availability of type 2 mounts. Other considerations include location of the injector on the sump, provision for constant speed prop, clearance with engine/nosewheel mount, choice of accessories, i.e. Bendix vs. Slick mags etc. The only injected 150 that I have experience with was on a Citabria and functionally it differed mainly in starting procedure and the ability to operate inverted. Since the -9 is not intended to fly inverted the injector probably doesn't offer much advantage. The injected engines tend to be slightly heavier. You could talk to a good overhaul shop about the comparative costs to maintain the injector vs the carburetor. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: John Solecki <jsolecki(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Cellular Phones
Norman wrote: > > > Not a concern for Canadians... Cell phone usage in general aviation > aircraft is > > legal up here, as long as the pilot doesn't object. > > First time I've heard this, any links to some data to back this up or has > any other Canadian heard this? > AIP Canada Com 5-14 says in the event of a communications failure to use a cell phone. It doesn't say anything about not using one under any other circumstances. John Solecki Toronto RV-7 Emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Listers... This post originally discussed updating of Garmin database updates and suggested American Avionics out of Seattle. I have a GNC 250 XL and they don't offer this service for this model. As Paul Besing stated before, Jeppesen will do the job for $175 but is there a domestic source at a more reasonable price? Any suggestions -- much appreciated... Ken Cantrell 6 slider, N34KC reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update > > Paul, my buddy Paul reminded me of the location where we got out Garman > databases updated. It was American Avionics out of Seattle. I didn't see > any prices on their website but here is the link. > http://www.americanavionics.com/ > > Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update > > > > > > Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount > > GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in > Germany > > that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about > > sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas? > > > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A N197AB Arizona > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > Flying > > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > > http://www.kitlog.com > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
In a message dated 11/22/2001 10:14:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net writes: > > Listers... > This post originally discussed updating of Garmin database updates and > suggested American Avionics out of Seattle. I have a GNC 250 XL and they > don't offer this service for this model. As Paul Besing stated before, > Jeppesen will do the job for $175 but is there a domestic source at a more > reasonable price? > Any suggestions -- much appreciated... > > Ken Cantrell > 6 slider, N34KC reserved > If you have not updated your database since you purchased the unit you can go through the avionics shop that you bought it from, they can send your old card back to Garmin & they will replace with a new updated one 1 time. It worked for me. Tm Barnes Meangreen RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Van's Voltage regulators-adjustable?
Date: Nov 22, 2001
I have about 20 hrs on my -8 and have had some problems with stabilizing charging voltage with Van's fixed regulator. It charges some times at over 15 V and other times not at all. I ordered a new regulator and decided to try the adjustable one. The regulator showed up without and wiring diagram...so I called Van's. They told me to cut off the yellow wire, red to the switch, green to the field, and black to ground. I did this and this morning ran it for the first time. It is charging at 20V. I see there is a adjustment on the back but am not sure how to adjust it. Any body give me some advice? Jim Cimino RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 20 Hrs. http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ (570)842-4057 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Re: feathering microballoons
dear Listers, anyone with fiberglass expereince know how to feather microballoons to the point of not seeing the edges with a real glossy paint over it.? i have tryed everything that i know , and when it is sanded and primed you can rub your hand over it and you can't feel the edge, but when glossy paint goes on, it is noticable. i was planning on filling the rivit heads with micro, but if i can't get a better result i just might pass. i have seen rvs at flyins that you can't see any rivits, and would like that appearence rather than the dimply skins. how do those glass pilots acheive such a smooth finish? hep me heeepp me scott tampa oh yeah Happy Thanksgiving everybody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Voltage regulators-adjustable?
Date: Nov 23, 2001
> >I have about 20 hrs on my -8 and have had some problems with stabilizing >charging voltage with Van's fixed regulator. It charges some times at >over 15 V and other times not at all. I ordered a new regulator and >decided to try the adjustable one. The regulator showed up without and >wiring diagram...so I called Van's. They told me to cut off the yellow >wire, red to the switch, green to the field, and black to ground. I did >this and this morning ran it for the first time. It is charging at 20V. > I see there is a adjustment on the back but am not sure how to adjust >it. Any body give me some advice? > > >Jim Cimino >RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 20 Hrs. >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ >(570)842-4057 Jim, I don't know of a quick and elegant way to do it. What I did was to have a buddy adjust it while the engine was running at idle. I mounted the regulator immediately above the firewall mounted battery and drilled a small access hole where the adjustment pot is located. Installed in this way, the pot can be adjusted through the baggage hold door. I hooked up a Fluke voltmeter onto the power bus so I could call out the voltage from the cockpit as he made the adjustments. I left it at 14.2 volts which has worked fine for two years now. The use of the Fluke meter also allowed me to calibrate my analog voltmeter (Isspro) in the panel which does not have very precise indications. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 268 hrs. Gravy. Not just for breakfast anymore. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: feathering microballoons
Scott, You need to put a primer/ surfacer over the micro, before the top coat, then sand it with 280 or 320. I recommend using Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime. You can roll it on with a roller and its water borne so its easy to clean up and it is non toxic. It sticks to Aluminum and composite very well and once dry almost any top coat can be used over it. UV Smooth prime is available from AS&S. Or Poly Fiber direct at (800)362-3490. It's white that's how "Casper" got its name. Hope this helps, have a good Turkey Day. Garry "Casper" ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > > dear Listers, > anyone with fiberglass expereince know how to feather microballoons to the > point of not seeing the edges with a real glossy paint over it.? i have tryed > everything that i know , and when it is sanded and primed you can rub your > hand over it and you can't feel the edge, but when glossy paint goes on, it > is noticable. i was planning on filling the rivit heads with micro, but if i > can't get a better result i just might pass. i have seen rvs at flyins that > you can't see any rivits, and would like that appearence rather than the > dimply skins. how do those glass pilots acheive such a smooth finish? > hep me heeepp me > scott > tampa > oh yeah Happy Thanksgiving everybody > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: feathering microballoons
Also a friend of mine Ray did this to his wings. It was a lot of work. If you would like to contact him , contact me off list for his email address. Garry "Casper" ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > > dear Listers, > anyone with fiberglass expereince know how to feather microballoons to the > point of not seeing the edges with a real glossy paint over it.? i have tryed > everything that i know , and when it is sanded and primed you can rub your > hand over it and you can't feel the edge, but when glossy paint goes on, it > is noticable. i was planning on filling the rivit heads with micro, but if i > can't get a better result i just might pass. i have seen rvs at flyins that > you can't see any rivits, and would like that appearence rather than the > dimply skins. how do those glass pilots acheive such a smooth finish? > hep me heeepp me > scott > tampa > oh yeah Happy Thanksgiving everybody > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Voltage regulators-adjustable?
Use a small standard screw driver and turn counterclockwise to lower the voltage. Make small adjustments as it doesn't take much. Most of these are tested at the factory and should be a lot closer than 20 volts. You may have a bad field connection that is causing the regulator to put out more voltage. Garry "Casper" CiminoJim wrote: > > I have about 20 hrs on my -8 and have had some problems with stabilizing > charging voltage with Van's fixed regulator. It charges some times at > over 15 V and other times not at all. I ordered a new regulator and > decided to try the adjustable one. The regulator showed up without and > wiring diagram...so I called Van's. They told me to cut off the yellow > wire, red to the switch, green to the field, and black to ground. I did > this and this morning ran it for the first time. It is charging at 20V. > I see there is a adjustment on the back but am not sure how to adjust > it. Any body give me some advice? > > Jim Cimino > RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 20 Hrs. > http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ > (570)842-4057 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: RV-9a vs. RV7a Was: "Pros and cons of IO320 to O320"
I too am primarily interested in using the RV for cross country travel. Given the same no wind flying conditions, using Van's published specs, the 160 HP 9A will take 17 mins. longer to make a 600 SM trip than the 200 HP 7A. The 9A has 49 lbs. more useful load and the 7A will burn more fuel on the trip. Full tanks on the 7A add another 36 lbs to be subtracted from the payload. It was a hard choice for me. The performance capabilities of the 7A are impressive, but I think that the 9A will be a better cross country machine. John - Awaiting January delivery,. KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/22/01 10:05:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, > rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes: > > << Here is how I presently see it... RV9a gives up aerobatics, which I don't > really have interest in, in return for what is probably a more stable > cross-country platform, which I do have interest in. RV9a with better low > speed performance, docile, lower stall speed, and 160kt. cruise with better > overall economy (which could add up) . RV7a has 180kt. cruise, but by > criteria > mentioned above is possibly less stable VFR/IFR cross country machine. 20 > kt. > faster cruise would be nice, but 160 kt. still much faster than anything on > the > consumer market until you are spending 200k or so. Also 200 HP needed to get > the 180kt cruise in 7a, 160HP needed to get 160 kt cruise in 9a. >> > > I'll jump in here... On 160 hp, the X/C performance between the RV-9 and RV-7 > will be identical for all intents and purposes. If you've gotta go 180 knots > (and have the bank account to support this speed addiction), or the mission > includes aerobatics, the RV-7 is the choice. If your mission is 150-160 knot > cross country flying, the RV-9 is probably a better fit for you. > > Kyle Boatright > 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider > Kennesaw, GA > http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: feathering microballoons
> how do those glass pilots acheive such a smooth finish? They get that smooth finish by building in fiberglass, not riveted aluminum. :) Sorry, Scott, couldn't resist. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Firewall Forward http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-9a vs. RV7a Was: "Pros and cons of IO320 to O320"
Depends on how you calculate more fuel burn. When flying my 180hp RV-6 alongside a buddy's 150hp RV-4 we burn the same amount of fuel. John Carillon wrote: > > I too am primarily interested in using the RV for cross country travel. Given the > same no wind flying conditions, using Van's published specs, the 160 HP 9A will > take 17 mins. longer to make a 600 SM trip than the 200 HP 7A. The 9A has 49 lbs. > more useful load and the 7A will burn more fuel on the trip. Full tanks on the 7A > add another 36 lbs to be subtracted from the payload. It was a hard choice for me. > The performance capabilities of the 7A are impressive, but I think that the 9A > will be a better cross country machine. > > John - Awaiting January delivery,. > > KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > > >> >>In a message dated 11/22/01 10:05:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, >>rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes: >> >><< Here is how I presently see it... RV9a gives up aerobatics, which I don't >> really have interest in, in return for what is probably a more stable >> cross-country platform, which I do have interest in. RV9a with better low >> speed performance, docile, lower stall speed, and 160kt. cruise with better >> overall economy (which could add up) . RV7a has 180kt. cruise, but by >>criteria >> mentioned above is possibly less stable VFR/IFR cross country machine. 20 >>kt. >> faster cruise would be nice, but 160 kt. still much faster than anything on >>the >> consumer market until you are spending 200k or so. Also 200 HP needed to get >> the 180kt cruise in 7a, 160HP needed to get 160 kt cruise in 9a. >> >> >>I'll jump in here... On 160 hp, the X/C performance between the RV-9 and RV-7 >>will be identical for all intents and purposes. If you've gotta go 180 knots >>(and have the bank account to support this speed addiction), or the mission >>includes aerobatics, the RV-7 is the choice. If your mission is 150-160 knot >>cross country flying, the RV-9 is probably a better fit for you. >> >>Kyle Boatright >>0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider >>Kennesaw, GA >>http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 >> >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 22, 2001
I just tried this with Aerotronics. Martin called Garmin to see, and they said no way. If it was a month old, it might be possible. But 3 years forget about it. Who did you get your Garmin through, Tim? Martin told me that it's not him, and it's not Garmin, it's Jeppesen. The bastards have a monopoly on the databases and they are a close guarded commodity. That's why they can get $175 for one freakin' update that will expire in 28 days. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update > > In a message dated 11/22/2001 10:14:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, > kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net writes: > > > > > > Listers... > > This post originally discussed updating of Garmin database updates and > > suggested American Avionics out of Seattle. I have a GNC 250 XL and they > > don't offer this service for this model. As Paul Besing stated before, > > Jeppesen will do the job for $175 but is there a domestic source at a more > > reasonable price? > > Any suggestions -- much appreciated... > > > > Ken Cantrell > > 6 slider, N34KC reserved > > > > If you have not updated your database since you purchased the unit you can go > through the avionics shop that you bought it from, they can send your old > card back to Garmin & they will replace with a new updated one 1 time. It > worked for me. > > Tm Barnes > Meangreen RV-4 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin" <RMCKEE(at)MN.RR.COM>
Subject: Smooth Finnish
Date: Nov 22, 2001
I would like to know if one put auto body filler over the small dents where the rivets are if that would cause corrosion of the rivet or the aluminum? I know one person that did this on the top side of his wing so it would be very pretty to look at and so far the plane is still flying..... Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: POH available
If anyone needs a pilot operating handbook for an RV I have completed a very detailed one and will send a disk to anyone who needs one. It is for an RV6a with a wood prop but could probably be easily adapted to any RV with some cutting and pasting. It has a lot of safety information. Aircraft Systems Normal Checklist Emergency Checklist Specifications and Limitations Flight Maneuvers (Mostly aerobatics) Weight and Balence Maintenance (Including maintenance schedule) VFR flight rules that are hard to remember Anyone interested can send me an address off list and I'll send it when I can. Use at own risk. Dave Beizer RV6A 110 hrs pltdbeezer(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Voltage regulators-adjustable?
Or...........go to an auto parts store, hand them about ten dollars and ask for a 1975 Ford regulator. The Ford regulator works like a charm and is replaceable nearly anywhere in the country. I first read of this tip in the "AeroElectric Connection". Sam Buchanan (RV-6, well regulated with mid-70's Ford technology) "The RV Journal" http://www.home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal =================== CiminoJim wrote: > > > I have about 20 hrs on my -8 and have had some problems with stabilizing > charging voltage with Van's fixed regulator. It charges some times at > over 15 V and other times not at all. I ordered a new regulator and > decided to try the adjustable one. The regulator showed up without and > wiring diagram...so I called Van's. They told me to cut off the yellow > wire, red to the switch, green to the field, and black to ground. I did > this and this morning ran it for the first time. It is charging at 20V. > I see there is a adjustment on the back but am not sure how to adjust > it. Any body give me some advice? > > Jim Cimino > RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 20 Hrs. > http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ > (570)842-4057 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Steve Davis Instrument Panels
Date: Nov 22, 2001
I can second that about Steve's work. Most of you have seen my website before, but for the newer folks, you can see my Steve Davis panel at: http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel/panel.htm Be sure and view the page 2 of the panel section as well. Also, here is another picture from the first flight day: http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/flight.htm Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: POH available
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Dave, if you like you can send me a copy of it and I'll post it on the web for people to download and you won't have to send out floppies all day! Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: POH available > > If anyone needs a pilot operating handbook for an RV I have > completed a very detailed one and will send a disk to anyone who needs one. > It is for an RV6a with a wood prop but could probably be easily adapted to > any RV with some cutting and pasting. It has a lot of safety information. > > Aircraft Systems > Normal Checklist > Emergency Checklist > Specifications and Limitations > Flight Maneuvers (Mostly aerobatics) > Weight and Balence > Maintenance (Including maintenance schedule) > VFR flight rules that are hard to remember > > Anyone interested can send me an address off list and I'll send it when I > can. Use at own risk. > > Dave Beizer > RV6A 110 hrs > pltdbeezer(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Subject: Re: POH available
thanks paul. The problem is its over 100 pages total. Doesn't seem like that would be practical for a web site. Dave Beizer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: feathering microballoons
Date: Nov 22, 2001
The answer to this question is this: You must NOT sand with your hand. You must use a sanding block. Scott, you showed me this the other day when I was at your shop, and we got side tracked onto a different topic and I didn't get a chance to discuss it then.... but... having grown up in the auto industry and working in body shops since I was old enough to walk, the trick to sanding microballoons (or bondo or any other filler) is the sanding block. Sanding blocks come in many different styles, but go to any high quality body shop and watch them "block out" the panels prior to painting. Sanding blocks must be stiff enough to sand the surface evenly. THIS is the trick to avoid the "build-up" appearance where the filler was after the paint goes on. Its not the "feather" edge which is the problem, its the built-up appearance which looks to be higher than the surrounding surface (because it IS). Your hand cannot fix this...no matter how hard you try. Only a block can avoid the look of a "patch of filler" under the paint. Avoid any temptation to use your hands on a piece of sandpaper until the very final go. Until then, use a flat piece of metal wrapped in sandpaper. I use a piece of 1/8 x 1.5 6061 AL scrap that came with the kit, cut to 10" long. Wrap it in 40 or 80 grit the first time, then re-apply the filler and sand again with 120 or 180 grit. If any low areas exist, do this step again. Then prime and block out again with 220. As you can see, we haven't used our hands on a piece of sandpaper yet. You should be way past the point where you can't feel the stuff... but people won't be feeling your airplane, they will see it in reflected light. At this stage there is a trick that many good body guys use: wet the panel and look at it in the light at an angle. If you cant see your filler in the reflected light, and you can't feel it, then its time to prime again and NOW you can use your hand. The reason that you can use your hand now is because this time you are not "shaping" the panel, you are filling sanding scratches and preparing for the color coat. For all curved surfaces, all good body men have a collection of heater hoses (or similar) they use as sanding blocks. I bought several pieces of heater hose at the auto store just for this. I have a 3/4" diameter piece about 8" long that I use for the wheel pant fairings and other surfaces where there is a tight radius, a 1" diameter piece and a 1.5" diameter piece. Again, they are stiff enough to do the job of taking down the high spots only, while allowing flexibility to go around compound curves. I also have a 8" piece of broom stick I use when I want a round shape while sanding a straight line (my wheel pant fairings, for example), and have resorted to using a piece of left over Aeroquip oil line when I couldn't find my favorite piece of heater hose. In summary: Never use a piece of sandpaper with your hand to sand filler of any sort... once painted, you will ALWAYS see the filler. No matter how good your paint is, hand sanding will ruin all your hard work. (My 6A has been funded by the sale of several classic cars [a 68 E-Type Roadster, and a 70 LT-1 Corvette Roadster), both of which had many hundreds of hours of blocking into them). Jim Tampa (Maybe this is why I enjoy working with fiberglass... I grew up around this stuff). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Hey Paul, I live in Fayetteville and although I'm not an instructor your welcome to some back seat time. Carey Mills RV4 200hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Steve Davis Instrument Panels
Jim, I've also had some great luck with Steve. My panel is finally done, and when I get a chance I'll email some pics for the list to see Steve's work. Can't say enough good things about how the panel looks. Saves a great deal of time, and the quality it top notch. Kurt, OKC, OK 6A Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2001
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: POH available
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote: > > thanks paul. The problem is its over 100 pages total. Doesn't seem like > that would be practical for a web site. > > Dave Beizer You could divide it up into 4 seperate downloads of 25 pages each. -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ Finishing RV7A empannage :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Try Manasota Avionics Located in Sarasota Florida. 1-358-1404 ask for Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
I recently updated the database on my Garmin 90 GPS unit. All I have to do is buy a special Garmin patch cord to connect the GPS to the computer, log onto the Garmin web site, give them a credit card number for $30 and then download the new data. It worked great and was so EASY even I could do it! Kim Nicholas (all updated database but nowhere to fly....) RV9 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: POH Download
Here are the POH files. Let me know if you are unable to download it. Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Well,you could get a controlvision anywhere map.Monthly updates from computor for 100 $/yr. And i can see it. Ollie&Lorene Washburn RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL Loves Airpark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 23, 2001
> I recently updated the database on my Garmin 90 GPS unit. All I have to do > is buy a special Garmin patch cord to connect the GPS to the computer, log > onto the Garmin web site, give them a credit card number for $30 and then > download the new data. > Dito. Just did mine too. This is a new service available from them. All the information is on their website, but it is real well hidden. Keep looking till you find it. Ordered the serial cable to fit my GPS from their website, it showed up in a couple of days. Took just a few minutes after that to go to the correct web page to erase the old data and load the new. Seems to have more accurate land data and more named features for VFR navigation too. Dave Burton RV6 (wings) Seattle area ======================================================================= > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com>
Subject: Re: POH Download
Date: Nov 23, 2001
I have web space for misc RV List files on www.am2.com. If anyone from the list wants a related file posted, email it and I'll post it with a link. Mitch Robbins robm(at)am2.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: POH Download
I think I'll take Paul up on his offer. Dave Beizer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Carpal Tunnel
--- Norman wrote: > The damage is terrible, permanent and often the surgery makes > it worse. > > My solution was to use brain power to discipline myself to do all > cleco tasks with my left hand (I am right handed). That works for a while. Everybody's milage will vary, but I can't think of two cheaper-in-the-long-run tools than a pneumatic cleco tool and a pneumatic squeezer. Don't go to the shop without them. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Firewall Forward http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2001
From: efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Carpal Tunnel
I just had the carpal tunnel operation 6 weeks ago. Don't know if the clecos had anything to do with it or not. They did a nerve conduction study on both hands and said I had moderate damage on both. I have no systems on the left hand but the fingers were beginning to go numb at times on the right hand. They said if I did nothing and it became severe the mussel for the thumb would atrophy and the thumb would become unusable and could not be fixed once the damage was done. The operation was not bad and the hand no longer gets numb. Was done in the outpatient clinic. Wore a splint for about three weeks. Very little pain. I will probably have the other hand done with the first symptoms. Earl RV4 Mike Thompson wrote: > > --- Norman wrote: > > The damage is terrible, permanent and often the surgery makes > > it worse. > > > > My solution was to use brain power to discipline myself to do all > > cleco tasks with my left hand (I am right handed). > > That works for a while. > > Everybody's milage will vary, but I can't think of two > cheaper-in-the-long-run tools than a pneumatic cleco tool and a > pneumatic squeezer. > > Don't go to the shop without them. > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Firewall Forward > > http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 23, 2001
That's a handheld. Totally different ball game there. The panel mount units are only updatable with a special card. The Garmin 430's are updatedable with a cord, but it is a file that you still have to purchase for big bucks, and only works on one GPS. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update > > > > I recently updated the database on my Garmin 90 GPS unit. All I have to > do > > is buy a special Garmin patch cord to connect the GPS to the computer, > log > > onto the Garmin web site, give them a credit card number for $30 and then > > download the new data. > > > Dito. Just did mine too. This is a new service available from them. > All the information is on their website, but it is real well hidden. Keep > looking till you find it. Ordered the serial cable to fit my GPS from their > website, it showed up in a couple of days. Took just a few minutes after > that to go to the correct web page to erase the old data and load the new. > Seems to have more accurate land data and more named features for VFR > navigation too. > > > Dave Burton > RV6 (wings) Seattle area > > > ======================================================================= > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: POH available
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Chris Good has an excellent RV-6A POH available on his web site: http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/ You can download a MS Word file from his site. Choose "Documents" from the menu. Chris Heitman Dousman WI -----Original Message----- Dave, if you like you can send me a copy of it and I'll post it on the web for people to download and you won't have to send out floppies all day! Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: wing lighting
i'm about to put lighting in but not sure which is the best way and what brand. it seems the least expensive way is nav lights on the wing and tail with 1 strobe in the belly. can anyone suggest options. thank you dan carley rv-4 2295s ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Subject: Re: RV4-List: wing lighting
Dan, l recently put lights on my RV-4. The wing tips have the nav plus the whelen strobes. I also have the belly strobe that is wired independently from the wing tip strobes. I use the belly for cruise and then swich on the wing tip strobes for landing. You can never have enough recognition lites at a busy airport, IMOO. George Spring RV-4 Chester, Conn. 4375J ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Sratus pump fittings
Date: Nov 23, 2001
> I have not been able to locate fittings to connect my Stratus vacuum pump to > the vacuum lines. Bill, the fittings are in Aircraft Spruce, called Airborne fittings. Biggest rip off in the whole plane (go look at the catalog). I got my fittings at an aircraft salvage yard for 5 bucks each. Cleaned them up and put them in. Only salvage stuff in my whole plane. Don't use any sort of thread sealer on these fittings. Also, be aware that the 90 degree one which will go into the front port may not go when the engine is in - mine did barely. These fittings are unique (besides in their price) in that they have wide open through holes. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 52 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: wing lighting
Date: Nov 23, 2001
Oh no! Another Aeroflash thread! The Aeroflash units give you all in one for about $425 including power supply. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: wing lighting > > i'm about to put lighting in but not sure which is the best way and what > brand. it seems the least expensive way is nav lights on the wing and tail > with 1 strobe in the belly. can anyone suggest options. > > thank you > dan carley > rv-4 2295s > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 22, 2001
Scott in Vancouver said: > I was thinking of painting the top cowl flat black as I was hoping to > have a military paint scheme. [snip] > Does the performance of this heat shield mean this paint idea might > still be possible to do? The S cowls seem pretty resistant to deformation from heat. I think the main issue is burning or charring when the heat gets too high. The polyesters are just the opposite -- they don't burn as easily but become plastic when heated up. So I don't think it'd be necessary to put heat shielding on the top cowl even if you painted it black. It gets hot up there but never enough to char or blister, and I doubt that heating from the outside would make enough of a difference there to warrant heat shielding. If it were me I'd just fill the top cowl and paint the inside with heat-resistant paint and leave it at that. I do open my oil door while the plane's cooling down -- don't know if this really is necessary or helps all that much but it doesn't hurt. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2001
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Hartwell latches
Does anyone know of a good source for reasonably priced Hartwell Latches? Wag Aero price of $22+ is a little steep. I need about six of them. Charlie Brame RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.) San Antonio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2001
Subject: New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Subject: First F-1 Rocket to Fly... http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jcash@centurytel.net/index.html --------------------------------- EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Hartwell latches
Charlie, I have a bunch of surplus Hartwell latches available. $5 each + $4 shipping. There stainless (Hartwell p/n H-5000-2) and polish up very nicely (you get to polish). Contact me off line for additional info. Laird RV-6 400hrs SoCal owens(at)aerovironment.com From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sat, Nov 24, 2001 10:32 AM Subject: RV-List: Hartwell latches Does anyone know of a good source for reasonably priced Hartwell Latches? Wag Aero price of $22+ is a little steep. I need about six of them. Charlie Brame RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.) San Antonio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Hartwell latches
Date: Nov 24, 2001
B&B aircraft. They are in the yeller pages. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Hartwell latches > > Does anyone know of a good source for reasonably priced Hartwell > Latches? Wag Aero price of $22+ is a little steep. I need about six of > them. > > Charlie Brame > RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.) > San Antonio > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Larry.Pink(at)matronics.com
Subject: Priceless
Date: Nov 24, 2001
Fuel = $45.00 Lunch = $13.00 for two Gambling = $0.75 three rounds in the slot machine Clean-up = $.03 6 squirts of mirror gloss #17 The Decadence of leaving work in San Diego CA with a buddy and flying in your RV-6 to Bullhead City AZ, crossing the river on a free boat ride to Laughlin NV for a 45 minute lunch, easily returning with plenty of time to spare for the second part of the shift = Priceless W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: Lycoming 0-320
Date: Nov 24, 2001
The 0-320 has been made in ranges from 140-177hp. One interesting, or should I say disgusting thought, about the high compression versions of these engines is the rumour that there are only two manufacturers of TEL left on planet earth, one in England and one in Russia. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming 0-320
Would you mind telling which model was 140 hp and which was 177hp? Jerry S Wheeler North wrote: > > The 0-320 has been made in ranges from 140-177hp. One interesting, or should > I say disgusting thought, about the high compression versions of these > engines is the rumour that there are only two manufacturers of TEL left on > planet earth, one in England and one in Russia. > > W > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Dave's RV POH
Date: Nov 24, 2001
Can be found at: http://www.kitlog.com/downloads/RVPOH.zip This is a .doc format, but my MS Office is giving me a hard time, so I have not had a chance to test it out. I'm forwarding it on from Dave. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flamini2" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Claudio Tonnini Sun 100 race
Date: Nov 24, 2001
BlankClaudio, if you are still monitoring the list are you racing this year at Sun-n Fun? Dennis Flamini, RV-10, race #53 , N564DF, Chicago ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Be Safe!!
Date: Nov 24, 2001
bruce.gray(at)snet.net said: > Not a radio problem. Back many, many years ago, when I was a young > brash pup. My grisly tough flight instructor taught me to turn the airplane > in a 360 on the ground and look for other traffic before taking the active. > It's a practice I still follow today, some 40 years latter, at uncontrolled > airports. You are absolutely correct. My instructor taught me the same thing and I practice it to this day. I didn't mean to imply that we should depend exclusively on the radio to tell whether someone's on final! We should of course use all the tools we have, including eyeballs, to make sure we don't try to occupy the same space with another aircraft. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 24, 2001
If you want to save a few bucks by making your own Garmin update cable, I suggest checking out http://www.pfranc.com. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Claudio Tonnini Sun 100 race
Date: Nov 24, 2001
Claudio doesn't usually monitor the list. I know he sold his RV-3 project and has started an RV-7. No idea what he has improved on his RV-4, Purple Passion, but when he is interested in racing, everything is open for modification. Michael Pilla ----- Original Message ----- From: flamini2 <flamini2(at)home.com> Subject: RV-List: Claudio Tonnini Sun 100 race > > BlankClaudio, if you are still monitoring the list are you racing this > year at Sun-n Fun? > Dennis Flamini, RV-10, race #53 , N564DF, Chicago > > = > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Engine Parts
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Is there a place to buy engine parts such as gasket sets that will sell to individuals? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Parts
Date: Nov 25, 2001
I use Superior as much as I can. Here's there web address www.superiorairparts.com Actually, I'm suprised you're having problems. I've bought from Aviall, Lycoming distributor, many times. They're more expensive and have a bad attitude a lot of the time, but they'll sell to me no problem. If you're looking for used components, try EnParts in Lancaster, TX. They've helped me a lot as well. My governor drive components were going to be over $1000 from Lycoming. I bought some good used components from EnParts for about $250 or so. 320+ hrs and all is working very well. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Be Safe!!
Date: Nov 25, 2001
I know I'm a little late to this discussion, but I learned a lesson a couple of years ago I'd like to share. I was flying out of Destin, FL (DTS) on my way home to Memphis. It was in the afternoon in the summer down there. I was flying a A36 Bonanza and was on an instrument flight plan. Since Destin is just on the other side of the bay from Eglin AFB, it's a very good idea to get your clearance on the ground. Because of the number of aircraft leaving, the frequency was crowded and it took awhile to get the clearance, but I finally did. I tuned to the Unicom frequency, looked carefully off the approach end of the runway and seeing nothing out there, I proceeded to announce my departure and pull onto the runway. About 10 seconds later, as I was beginning my takeoff roll, a Lear Jet calls a go around and blasts overhead. Talk about embarrassed...at least the Lear driver had the class not to say anything. Here's what I learned: 1. When you have restricted visibility as we very often do in Florida in the summer, you may not see another aircraft, especially one with such a small cross-section as a Lear. 2. I had a second NavCom in the plane and didn't use it. Tune it to the Unicom frequency and listen to it in the background while you're talking to Clearance Delivery or whoever. Had I done #2, I'm sure I would have been aware of the Lear in the pattern. It might even be a good idea to ask over the radio if anyone is on final (although this isn't standard practice). My two cents, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Be Safe!! > > bruce.gray(at)snet.net said: > > Not a radio problem. Back many, many years ago, when I was a young > > brash pup. My grisly tough flight instructor taught me to turn the > airplane > > in a 360 on the ground and look for other traffic before taking the > active. > > It's a practice I still follow today, some 40 years latter, at > uncontrolled > > airports. > > You are absolutely correct. My instructor taught me the same thing and I > practice it to this day. I didn't mean to imply that we should depend > exclusively on the radio to tell whether someone's on final! We should of > course use all the tools we have, including eyeballs, to make sure we don't > try to occupy the same space with another aircraft. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (300 hrs) > Portland, OR > www.vanshomewing.org > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Engine Parts
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Call Ted at ElReno aviation. He is great and will spend time with you explaining what you really need. An honest guy that won't sell you un-necessary parts. His number is the yeller pages Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (flying) www.ericsrv6a.com -----Original Message----- From: "owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com" <owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of "b green" Subject: RV-List: Engine Parts Is there a place to buy engine parts such as gasket sets that will sell to individuals? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Engine Parts
> Is there a place to buy engine parts such as gasket sets that will > sell to individuals? Sacramento Sky Ranch - http://www.sacskyranch.com/ Many more at the Yeller Pages: http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm ****** Tim Lewis -- Fairfax, VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 25, 2001
With regards to this post----painting the cowl black and taking a chance of warping-----, I do think that you stand a chance of having your cowl warp... at least over time and in a hot climate. I researched this a bit a few months ago when I was making (re-making?) my fiberglass plenum. I spent considerable time with the guys at West Epoxy systems. They were very helpful and sent me lots of information to supplement their phone conversations. There are MANY fiberglass resins in use today, and they all have different characteristics. Bottom line, the stuff that I bought to make a plenum out of is not the same stuff that I use for wheel pants, etc. It's considerably more expensive, but does not become plastic until a considerably higher temperature. Leaving the cowl door open is a great cooling trick... but, where I live (Florida), I would not paint my cowl black unless I did some form of experiment to prove that it will not sag with time. Black surfaces can get WAY PAST the plastic temperatures listed for almost all of the West System (and others) epoxy and polyester resins. I also am not sure that heat shielding on the inside will help... most of the heat will come from the sun, not the motor... Bottom line... I'd experiment or get some "real information" prior to risking my pretty plane.... how about a nice gray color? jim Tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: For Sale: RV6 / 6A WING KIT
I got impatient and sprung for the quickbuild kit. I now have an extra wing kit. Purchased from Van's on 3/12/98. This RV 6/6A Wing Kit is prepunched and the spar is matched drilled to the fuselage carry-through, serial #3387. Partially completed, both spars built up and primed with epoxy paint. Ribs drilled and clecoed to the spars. Just about ready for jigging. Fuel tanks started. Complete inventoried kit with all parts included. I will ship at no charge (free) to your shop for a total price of $3400 or best offer. This is a great deal!! Greg Grigson Honolulu 808-396-7771 ghgrigson123(at)cs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Good post Jim. Let me add there is another problem with heat and epoxy or polyester parts, the softening of the epoxy or polyester resin, this allows what is called creep. Creep shows itself as the cloth weave starting to show through in your once smooth paint job. Look at Rvs with dark stripes that extend from the wing to the tip. If the aircraft has been in the hot sun a few times, you will be able to see the weave of the glass starting to show on the part of the stripe that is on the tip, the part over the aluminum of the wing will be fine. The only way to beat this is to use a flat black temporary paint and let the unfinished part sit out in the sun and post cure, until it gets close to the manufactures recommended max temp. After that go thru the entire finishing process and your part will not creep, unless it gets hotter than the post cure temp. Garry "Casper" Jim Norman wrote: > > With regards to this post----painting the cowl black and taking a chance of > warping-----, I do think that you stand a chance of having your cowl warp... > at least over time and in a hot climate. > > I researched this a bit a few months ago when I was making (re-making?) my > fiberglass plenum. I spent considerable time with the guys at West Epoxy > systems. They were very helpful and sent me lots of information to > supplement their phone conversations. There are MANY fiberglass resins in > use today, and they all have different characteristics. Bottom line, the > stuff that I bought to make a plenum out of is not the same stuff that I use > for wheel pants, etc. It's considerably more expensive, but does not become > plastic until a considerably higher temperature. > > Leaving the cowl door open is a great cooling trick... but, where I live > (Florida), I would not paint my cowl black unless I did some form of > experiment to prove that it will not sag with time. Black surfaces can get > WAY PAST the plastic temperatures listed for almost all of the West System > (and others) epoxy and polyester resins. > > I also am not sure that heat shielding on the inside will help... most of > the heat will come from the sun, not the motor... Bottom line... I'd > experiment or get some "real information" prior to risking my pretty > plane.... how about a nice gray color? > > jim > Tampa > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Smooth Finnish
In a message dated 11/22/2001 6:07:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, RMCKEE(at)MN.RR.COM writes: > > I would like to know if one put auto body filler over the small dents > where the rivets are if that would cause corrosion of the rivet or the > aluminum? I know one person that did this on the top side of his wing so > it would be very pretty to look at and so far the plane is still > flying..... > Robin Taking a Hi-Fill primer and using a squeegee just over the rivet pattern works very well, it dose not hide the rivet but bridges the gap between the rivet and skin making the paint job flow better, besides your working on a metal airplane, be proud of those rivets. Thus the old saying "If you want a smooth airplane build a fiberglass one" Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 N39TB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Subject: A Rocket http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rtmarshall@thegrid.net/index.html --------------------------------- EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
In a message dated 11/22/2001 6:08:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes: > I just tried this with Aerotronics. Martin called Garmin to see, and they > said no way. If it was a month old, it might be possible. But 3 years > forget about it. Who did you get your Garmin through, Tim? Martin told me > that it's not him, and it's not Garmin, it's Jeppesen. The bastards have a > monopoly on the databases and they are a close guarded commodity. That's > why they can get $175 for one freakin' update that will expire in 28 days. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A N197AB Arizona > I bought my Garmin from Hi Dessert Avionics in Lancaster CA, Jeff did great job in getting mine replaced, I might add that it was a little over a year when I replaced my data card. Give Garmin a call direct, see what they say. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 N39TB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Engine Parts
In a message dated 11/25/2001 5:37:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, rvinfo(at)juno.com writes: > > Is there a place to buy engine parts such as gasket sets that will sell > to individuals? > Call Lycon in Visaila CA (509) 651-1070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-3 fairings?
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Greetings all, As I've recently posted, I purchased an old RV-3 kit (SN-751). The project didn't include some of the fairings that are common to other RV kits that I've seen. Since I hate fiberglass, I thought I'd ask if these are available now from Van's, or if perhaps there's an aftermarket source. The parts I need are the following: Horz stab tips Vert stab tip elevator tips tip for the top of the rudder tip for the bottom of the rudder with no light Empennage fairing (where the vert and horz stab join the fuselage) gear leg fairings Improved (lower drag) wheel pants (I have the original wheel pants) (nice low drag aftermarket) wing root fairings anything for the sliding canopy (assume this to be hopeless) Thanks, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 82 hours) RV-3, Rotary engine project ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-3 roll-over protection?
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Greetings again, I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much roll-over protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? Thanks, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project, old wings in the trash, new 3B wings on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: ACS Switch Question - HELP!
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Hi guys, Today I wired up my ACS key switch. When I took my handy mulit-meter out to check everything over I had the following results which puzzle me and I can't figure it out. When the switch is off, both mags show grounded (Normal). With the swith either L or R, both mags still show grounded. (NOT Right??) With the swith on BOTH, L&R mags indicate NOT grounded. (Normal). Switch in START Position, both mags show grounded again & the solenoid engages. (NOT normal). The switch is wired per all the diagrams I have, and looks to be correct. I tried with and without the jumper installed for the R mag, no difference. I'm using a small lawn tractor battery for testing, and so far everything else is going fine. My question is, no matter whether I select R or L, why would both mags still show grounded on my multi-meter and work fine in BOTH. Do I have a bad switch, or does something change with a bigger battery and the engine running? I don't think so, but Hey, I learn something new everyday. Any explanation or hints would be greatly appreciated. BTW, before you say "you should have used toggles", I WANTED TO - but my building partner is so used to Pipers and Cesspots he insisted on the key switch :( Thanks in advance and happy building, Stein Bruch RV6 wiring, MSP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: 6A tire pressures
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Just curious. What are you guys using for tire pressures in your RV-6A's without wooden gear leg stiffeners? Steve Soule RV-6A flying (20 +- hours) Huntington, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Durolac
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au>
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- text/html --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: RV6 / 6A WING KIT
Date: Nov 25, 2001
I assume everyone knows about the quickbuild fuselage from VANS. This was in the last RvAtor, but several builders I'm sure have already done this. You build the wings, but send the center section to Vans to be used in your QB fuselage. Extra charge of course, but not what the whole QB will run and since you already built the empannage and have the wing, why not finish them while you wait for that QB Fuselage. Marty in Brentwood, TN ----- Original Message ----- From: <Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com> Subject: RV-List: For Sale: RV6 / 6A WING KIT > > I got impatient and sprung for the quickbuild kit. I now have an extra wing > kit. > > Purchased from Van's on 3/12/98. This RV 6/6A Wing Kit is prepunched and > the spar is matched drilled to the fuselage carry-through, serial #3387. > Partially completed, both spars built up and primed with epoxy paint. Ribs > drilled and clecoed to the spars. Just about ready for jigging. Fuel tanks > started. Complete inventoried kit with all parts included. I will ship at > no charge (free) to your shop for a total price of $3400 or best offer. This > is a great deal!! > > Greg Grigson > Honolulu > 808-396-7771 > ghgrigson123(at)cs.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 roll-over protection?
Russell, didn't you notice mine at Tracy's? Look at Tracy's web site under the Rotary race. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy" > > Greetings again, > > I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much roll-over > protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has > anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any > pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? > > Thanks, > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE > RV-3, Rotary engine project, old wings in the trash, new 3B wings on order ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Tried that too...they just said to call the vendor that I bought it from! Oh well, time to bend over and take a $175 shot in the ass I guess. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update > > In a message dated 11/22/2001 6:08:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, > azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes: > > > > I just tried this with Aerotronics. Martin called Garmin to see, and they > > said no way. If it was a month old, it might be possible. But 3 years > > forget about it. Who did you get your Garmin through, Tim? Martin told me > > that it's not him, and it's not Garmin, it's Jeppesen. The bastards have a > > monopoly on the databases and they are a close guarded commodity. That's > > why they can get $175 for one freakin' update that will expire in 28 days. > > > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A N197AB Arizona > > > > I bought my Garmin from Hi Dessert Avionics in Lancaster CA, Jeff did great > job in getting mine replaced, I might add that it was a little over a year > when I replaced my data card. Give Garmin a call direct, see what they say. > > Tim Barnes > Meangreen RV-4 > N39TB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: 6A tire pressures
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Steve, I put 50psi in each main, and enough to just have the whole tread width on the nose wheel make contact. This was in late August, and I don't know what they are now, but they look to be the same. I might have had one incident of mild main gear shimmy, maybe two oscillations per second, so rather slow. Might have been the runway, but in any case, no other shimmy problems. I have no stiffeners, and the nose wheel breakaway is about 20#'s. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 52 hours > Just curious. What are you guys using for tire pressures in your RV-6A's > without wooden gear leg stiffeners? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Black surfaces can get > WAY PAST the plastic temperatures listed for almost all of the West System > (and others) epoxy and polyester resins. Just to give you some on different temps, A soft yellow finish on equal surface is 12 degrees F hotter than white (00). This will probably make you realise why glass builders tend to fly in White planes. Marcel de Ruiter RV4/G-RVMJ Aircraft painter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 roll-over protection?
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Hi Finn, It's funny, a picture of your engine is my current wallpaper, but I never took any photos of the whole plane. I looked at the photo on Tracy's page, and as I suspected, you have the tipover canopy. My project came with a sliding canopy that's mostly finished. As I recall, the rear support tube of the canopy frame runs from left to right, and comes to the very front of the turtledeck when the canopy is closed. That will make it impossible to install any sort of vertical structure behind the pilots head. It might be possible to modify this canopy frame bar to work around the rollbar, and that will certainly be one of the leading options. The other option would be to change over to the tipover canopy. Yep, looks like building 51% of this "nearly complete" RV-3 won't be a problem :-) Rusty Russell, didn't you notice mine at Tracy's? Look at Tracy's web site under the Rotary race. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy" > > Greetings again, > > I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much roll-over > protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has > anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any > pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
In a message dated 11/25/01 7:29:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com writes: << Just to give you some on different temps, A soft yellow finish on equal surface is 12 degrees F hotter than white (00). This will probably make you realise why glass builders tend to fly in White planes. Marcel de Ruiter RV4/G-RVMJ Aircraft painter >> Marcel, What were the conditions - ambient temperature, sun angle, wind, etc. when this observation was taken? What is the worst case scenario? - High altitude field, clear day, sun directly overhead and perpindicular to the surface being measured, with zero wind? Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kdh347(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: rv-6 parts for sale
Ive got a vert stab completed, and two 016 elevator skins if anyone is in need. switched to a -7. please respond off list. 845-677-3193 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: George
What are the George Video Tapes everone refers to? Bud Balone http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: ACS Switch Question - HELP!
Stein, If you're using a multimeter they will ALWAYS show grounded in any position of the switch. You will have to disconnect the P-leads from the mags to check the switch this way. Or use a mag timer which you'll need to time the mags anyway. What bothers me is that you said that they show NOT grounded in the both position. Dave Stein Bruch wrote: > > Hi guys, > > Today I wired up my ACS key switch. When I took my handy mulit-meter out to > check everything over I had the following results which puzzle me and I > can't figure it out. > > When the switch is off, both mags show grounded (Normal). > With the swith either L or R, both mags still show grounded. (NOT Right??) > With the swith on BOTH, L&R mags indicate NOT grounded. (Normal). > Switch in START Position, both mags show grounded again & the solenoid > engages. (NOT normal). > > The switch is wired per all the diagrams I have, and looks to be correct. I > tried with and without the jumper installed for the R mag, no difference. > > I'm using a small lawn tractor battery for testing, and so far everything > else is going fine. > > My question is, no matter whether I select R or L, why would both mags still > show grounded on my multi-meter and work fine in BOTH. Do I have a bad > switch, or does something change with a bigger battery and the engine > running? I don't think so, but Hey, I learn something new everyday. > > Any explanation or hints would be greatly appreciated. > > BTW, before you say "you should have used toggles", I WANTED TO - but my > building partner is so used to Pipers and Cesspots he insisted on the key > switch :( > > Thanks in advance and happy building, > Stein Bruch > RV6 wiring, MSP > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: 6A tire pressures
Date: Nov 25, 2001
I run 30 PSI on all three. No shimmy so far. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying - getting ready to paint) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RV-List: 6A tire pressures > > Just curious. What are you guys using for tire pressures in your RV-6A's > without wooden gear leg stiffeners? > > Steve Soule > RV-6A flying (20 +- hours) > Huntington, Vermont > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: 6A tire pressures
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Using 30 PSI all around. No stiffeners. Some shimmy on the nose wheel when rough surface and certain speeds are involved...no big deal, easily stopped with speed change. John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: ACS Switch Question - HELP!
Date: Nov 25, 2001
You are picking up ground from the mags. Even a "hot" mag will read ground with some resistance, just not a dead short to ground. You can pick up ground through the points if they are in the right spot. Paul Besing RV-6A N197AB Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Flying Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org> Subject: Re: RV-List: ACS Switch Question - HELP! > > Stein, > > If you're using a multimeter they will ALWAYS show grounded in any position of > the switch. You will have to disconnect the P-leads from the mags to check the > switch this way. Or use a mag timer which you'll need to time the mags anyway. > What bothers me is that you said that they show NOT grounded in the both > position. > > Dave > > Stein Bruch wrote: > > > > > Hi guys, > > > > Today I wired up my ACS key switch. When I took my handy mulit-meter out to > > check everything over I had the following results which puzzle me and I > > can't figure it out. > > > > When the switch is off, both mags show grounded (Normal). > > With the swith either L or R, both mags still show grounded. (NOT Right??) > > With the swith on BOTH, L&R mags indicate NOT grounded. (Normal). > > Switch in START Position, both mags show grounded again & the solenoid > > engages. (NOT normal). > > > > The switch is wired per all the diagrams I have, and looks to be correct. I > > tried with and without the jumper installed for the R mag, no difference. > > > > I'm using a small lawn tractor battery for testing, and so far everything > > else is going fine. > > > > My question is, no matter whether I select R or L, why would both mags still > > show grounded on my multi-meter and work fine in BOTH. Do I have a bad > > switch, or does something change with a bigger battery and the engine > > running? I don't think so, but Hey, I learn something new everyday. > > > > Any explanation or hints would be greatly appreciated. > > > > BTW, before you say "you should have used toggles", I WANTED TO - but my > > building partner is so used to Pipers and Cesspots he insisted on the key > > switch :( > > > > Thanks in advance and happy building, > > Stein Bruch > > RV6 wiring, MSP > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Engine OH
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be inspected tomorrow. I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 years. The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but the cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. any comments? I have had 2 new RV's fly away this month. Sure getting tired of working and NOT flying with them. Got to meet Paul & Victoria Rosales from Ca. this morning. They sure got a fine machine. Don Jordan, Arlington, Tx N6DJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Baffle Plenum?
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Paul, I have spent a lot of time with a fiberglass plenum. I bought it from Sam James, and you already know my stories there. Bottom line... If I was to do it over again, I'd make one out of aluminum rather than glass (mine actually started as carbon fiber, but has been modified with glass). The glass plenum can be made to fit really nice... around every little curve... but it takes considerable time and effort. Again, to do it over again, I would start with Van's baffles and then construct a plenum out of AL. I've seen several pictures of these from fellow builders, and that is what I would copy. Jim Tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Pulsating Instrument lights?
Date: Nov 25, 2001
I have a slight pulsation in my instrument lights (all of them) when the engine is running and the alternator is on. If I turn off the alternator...it stops. I have changed the voltage regulator for another problem, but it did not help. The alternator is one of Van's (35 amp). Everything else seems good and there is no fluctuation in either the volt or amp gauge. Anybody have any ideas? Jim Cimino RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 25 Hrs. http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ (570)842-4057 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engine OH
Don Your mechanic's recommendations tell me that he is very through and conscientious. It is a wise idea to replace the rod nuts and bolts ANY time an engine is torn down. This is fairly standard practice even in the auto and motorcycle repair trades. Your connecting rod bolts are some of the most highly stressed parts of your engine. Your mechanic wants to install new parts to insure that you don't have a catastrophic failure down the road. Since your cylinders are rusty, your mechanic will have to hone the cylinders to remove the rust. While installing the old rings might work, it might not. I certainly would feel uncomfortable reusing old rings in any engine I assembled and had to guarantee my work. If you insist he reuse the old rings, don't be surprised if your mechanic tells you that if you have cylinder sealing or oil usage problems, that you are on your own. I certainly would. Charlie Kuss RV-8A fuselage Boca Raton, Fl. > > i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be > inspected tomorrow. > > I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 years. > The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but the > cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. > > My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? > > Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. > > any comments? > > I have had 2 new RV's fly away this month. Sure getting tired of working > and NOT flying with them. > Got to meet Paul & Victoria Rosales from Ca. this morning. They sure got > a fine machine. > > Don Jordan, Arlington, Tx N6DJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg & Cindy Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Engine OH
Date: Nov 25, 2001
If you hone the cylinders, throw away the rings. They won't re-seat. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine OH Don Your mechanic's recommendations tell me that he is very through and conscientious. It is a wise idea to replace the rod nuts and bolts ANY time an engine is torn down. This is fairly standard practice even in the auto and motorcycle repair trades. Your connecting rod bolts are some of the most highly stressed parts of your engine. Your mechanic wants to install new parts to insure that you don't have a catastrophic failure down the road. Since your cylinders are rusty, your mechanic will have to hone the cylinders to remove the rust. While installing the old rings might work, it might not. I certainly would feel uncomfortable reusing old rings in any engine I assembled and had to guarantee my work. If you insist he reuse the old rings, don't be surprised if your mechanic tells you that if you have cylinder sealing or oil usage problems, that you are on your own. I certainly would. Charlie Kuss RV-8A fuselage Boca Raton, Fl. > > i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be > inspected tomorrow. > > I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 years. > The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but the > cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. > > My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? > > Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. > > any comments? > > I have had 2 new RV's fly away this month. Sure getting tired of working > and NOT flying with them. > Got to meet Paul & Victoria Rosales from Ca. this morning. They sure got > a fine machine. > > Don Jordan, Arlington, Tx N6DJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: ACS Switch - Problem Solved!
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Pual & Dave, Thanks for your input. I guess I was having a brain fart today. To many wires! After disconnecting the mags and looking closer at my mulit-meter, I can see the switch is working right. Happy Building, Stein. RV6, MSP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Engine OH
In a message dated 11/25/01 10:11:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, dons6a(at)juno.com writes: << i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be inspected tomorrow. I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 years. The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but the cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. any comments? >> Don, The rod bolts are one time use only. They get slightly stretched when torqued, and should not be re-used. Even if you assembled your engine, never ran it, and needed to pull a rod for some reason, you would need to replace the rod bolts when you reinstalled the rod. On the rings, if you hone (or wor$e, bore) your cylinders, there is a significant chance that old rings wouldn't seat. Since rings are cheap, and the effort to pull a cylinder (or cylinders) is at least moderate, it is good economy just to replace the rings. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine OH
--- Don Jordan wrote: > > i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be > inspected tomorrow. > > I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 > years. > The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but the > cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. > > My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? > > Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. > > any comments? > > I have had 2 new RV's fly away this month. Sure getting tired of > working > and NOT flying with them. > Got to meet Paul & Victoria Rosales from Ca. this morning. They sure > got > a fine machine. > > Don Jordan, Arlington, Tx N6DJ Don: Lycoming engines can use a STRECH bolt that you tighten till it gets so long. It is not reusable. The bolts are the most stressed parts in the engine and should be changed out any time the engine is taken apart. If there is rust in the cylinders, the rings will need replaced. I would not take the chance trying to get used rings to seat after removing the rust from the cylinders. They may seal but you may need to pull the jugs, hone, and then install the new rings. Why not just start with new rings where you have a good chance that everything will seat right the first time. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 roll-over protection?
I don't see the problem. My seatback bulkhead has the indents for the sliding canopy, just in case I wanted to change it. I welded up a simple "A" rollover bar, as per the plans. The top of the weld was done with the two pieces installed - bolted to the longerons, as they stick up through holes in the turtle top skin. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy" > > Hi Finn, > > It's funny, a picture of your engine is my current wallpaper, but I never > took any photos of the whole plane. I looked at the photo on Tracy's page, > and as I suspected, you have the tipover canopy. My project came with a > sliding canopy that's mostly finished. As I recall, the rear support tube > of the canopy frame runs from left to right, and comes to the very front of > the turtledeck when the canopy is closed. That will make it impossible to > install any sort of vertical structure behind the pilots head. It might be > possible to modify this canopy frame bar to work around the rollbar, and > that will certainly be one of the leading options. The other option would > be to change over to the tipover canopy. Yep, looks like building 51% of > this "nearly complete" RV-3 won't be a problem :-) > > Rusty > > > Russell, didn't you notice mine at Tracy's? > > Look at Tracy's web site under the Rotary race. > > Finn > > Russell Duffy wrote: > > > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy" > > > > Greetings again, > > > > I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much > roll-over > > protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has > > anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any > > pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? > ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Backup Artificial Horizon
Here's a link to a self-contained, battery operated, solid state "artificial horizon". Interesting for a guy like me who has a VFR aircraft, but would like some sort of attitude reference without the weight or maintenance issues that go with a vacuum system and conventional gyros. I'm not gonna buy one anytime soon, but I'm interested if anyone has seen one of 'em up close and personal... http://www.pcflightsystems.com/images/MicroHorizon.pdf Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What Can You Say...?
Dear Listers, I've been getting a ton great comments on what the Lists mean to its members and I've included a few of them below. I'm sure _most_ of you can echo one or more of these sentiments to the tune of a nice List Contribution... :-) Just one more week until I post the 2001 List of Contributors! Won't you support the continued operation of these Lists by making a Contribution today and assure your place on the upcoming Contributor List? I'm sure your friends will be checking for your name on the LOC... ;-) SSL Secure Web Visa and MasterCard Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contributions Personal Check via the US Mail: Matronics Email Lists c/o Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551-0347 I want to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution this year! YOU make these Lists possible! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ========================================================================== Can't live without my List everyday! - John B. Information you can't get anywhere else. - George D. ...one of the finest List sites on the Internet. - Dennis S. This List has saved my bacon more than once! - Larry H. Really invaluable service for a novice builder. - John B. ...got some useful help from the List. - Rocky S. A valuable resource. - Dennis N. This List is a Super resource... - Dwight F. ...couldn't have gotten this far without the resources on the List. - Jerry C. Great service to us builders... - Ronald M. ...someday we'll all meet in RV Heaven. Hey, how come there isn't an "RV-Heaven" List? - Louis W. The info I've gleaned from the List has saved me several thousand dollars... - Kevin H. ...the only International, Interesting, Up-to-date, List with the best search engine ever! - Hans L. ...check it ever day so I don't miss anything. - Jim B. Great List! - Douglas G. This List has saved me a few times already... - Thomas R. ...part of my morning wake up reading. - Dwight F. ...helped my make my plane better, safer, better looking, and built it quicker. - Kevin H. Have bought many items from the info the List gives. - Jim B. You meet the nicest people here. - George D. Informative, Amusing, Entertaining... - John B. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Date: Nov 25, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting) In Burt Rutan's "Finishing the Composite Aircraft, Section V of the VariEze Manufacturing Manual", he sets forth the reasoning behind his recommending a basically white exterior on structural members of a composite aircraft using room temperature-cured epoxy since those epoxies soften starting at around 160 degrees F. He reproduced a graph from a September 1975 article in Soaring Magazine which shows the temperature of surfaces painted various colors versus ambient air temperature. I'll post a few numbers off that graph. Ambient Air Temperature of 110 degrees F. Amb. Air Temperature of 70 degrees F. White 163 F 118 F Yellow and pink 169 124 Lt. Blue and Alum. 176 130 Purple and Blue 184 135 Light Green 192 143 Orange & Tan 198 149 Red and Green 218 166 Brown 231 178 Black 238 184 However, I don't know what the characteristics of the epoxy used in the RV cowlings are. It's unlikely, but they could be using a high temperature variety. Does anybody else know? A problem I have with this data: There are lots of aircraft using glass cowlings which must be experiencing temperatures well above 160 F a few minutes after shut down on a hot day, particularly near an exhaust pipe, and they seem to be hanging in there. Cowlings aren't structural, but...... Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A Victoria BC Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RV3 Roll-over protection
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Russ, The original drawings (1971-3) had only the sliding canopy and no roll-over structure. The later (1984) dwgs added the tip-over canopy as an option, and a built-up roll-over structure, which can be used with it (dwg 37). In the builder's notes, there is a sketch (SK-54A) of a welded steel tube A-frame (not a tripod but better than nothing . . ) for use with the sliding canopy, which I think Finn is referring to. It requires the frame cross-member to be positioned 1" aft, and restricts the opening by 1". If you don't have the sketch and notes I could email them over. Good luck Bob (UK) 3 fuselage being built on to new 3B wings (- new builder wants my old wings !!??) Original message: > I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much roll-over > protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has > anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any > pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? > > Thanks, > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE > RV-3, Rotary engine project, old wings in the trash, new 3B wings on order > Hi Finn, > > It's funny, a picture of your engine is my current wallpaper, but I never > took any photos of the whole plane. I looked at the photo on Tracy's page, > and as I suspected, you have the tipover canopy. My project came with a > sliding canopy that's mostly finished. As I recall, the rear support tube > of the canopy frame runs from left to right, and comes to the very front of > the turtledeck when the canopy is closed. That will make it impossible to > install any sort of vertical structure behind the pilots head. It might be > possible to modify this canopy frame bar to work around the rollbar, and > that will certainly be one of the leading options. The other option would ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: Dynon EFIS D10
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Has anyone taken part in the beta testing of the Dynon system or heard anything lately about their product coming out? Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
Numbers are interesting and, obviously, support painting cowl light or white color. I'm a bit surprised at how low the actual number is for potential damage (160 degrees F). So paint it white. But, it's easy to imagine temps inside the cowl exceeding these numbers... hot day, hot engine, long taxi on the ground, etc.... perhaps especially at areas of cowl in proximity to exhaust system. Careful, well designed, heat protection of interior surface seems essential. Robert Garth Shearing wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting) > > In Burt Rutan's "Finishing the Composite Aircraft, Section V of the VariEze > Manufacturing Manual", he sets forth the reasoning behind his recommending a > basically white exterior on structural members of a composite aircraft using > room temperature-cured epoxy since those epoxies soften starting at around > 160 degrees F. He reproduced a graph from a September 1975 article in > Soaring Magazine which shows the temperature of surfaces painted various > colors versus ambient air temperature. I'll post a few numbers off that > graph. > > Ambient Air Temperature of 110 degrees F. Amb. Air Temperature of 70 > degrees F. > > White 163 F > 118 F > Yellow and pink 169 > 124 > Lt. Blue and Alum. 176 > 130 > Purple and Blue 184 > 135 > Light Green 192 > 143 > Orange & Tan 198 > 149 > Red and Green 218 > 166 > Brown 231 > 178 > Black 238 > 184 > > However, I don't know what the characteristics of the epoxy used in the RV > cowlings are. It's unlikely, but they could be using a high temperature > variety. Does anybody else know? > > A problem I have with this data: There are lots of aircraft using glass > cowlings which must be experiencing temperatures well above 160 F a few > minutes after shut down on a hot day, particularly near an exhaust pipe, and > they seem to be hanging in there. Cowlings aren't structural, but...... > > Garth Shearing > VariEze and 80% RV6A > Victoria BC Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV Solo
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Way to go Carolyn!!! Nice grin Gary! John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> Subject: RV-List: RV Solo Today my wife Carolyn soloed in our RV-6A. I cant even begin to express in words how proud I am of her and her accomplishment. I have to say her solo was bigger and better than when I did the first flight over 17 months ago. Her flight training started about 1.5 years ago in a lowly 172. When she was ready to solo in the 172 her instructor didn't show up. Stuck in Kansas getting an airplane she said. So another date was picked and again the instructor did not show up. A call to her house found she was still in bed and that she had forgotten. At this point Carolyn was getting a complex, maybe the instructor was trying to tell that she was not good enough to solo. She was really in the dumps. We fired her instructor and started a search for another one. In looking for another instructor we decided that if she were going to learn to fly so that she could fly the RV she should learn in the RV. We found a willing instructor (the best I have seen, and as good as Mike Segar) and set every thing up to start flight training in the RV. The next day we lost #4 cyl and the engine had to be torn down since there was metal everywhere. Well long story short, her flight training began again this summer and she soloed on this fine day. She made it look easy. Did I mention how proud I am of my wife. It brought tears to my eyes and the biggest RV grin ever. Gary Zilik Keep building guys, get you wife interested, better yet let her learn to fly in the Family RV. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Any of the CFI's with RV's and 25+ hours in RV's who are on Doug's site is fine with the VanGuard Program. John "JT" Helms Branch Manager ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for RV-4 insurance checkout Doug Reeves' Van's Air Force site has a listing. http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/transition_training.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Shop Heaters
While making final, (or something like final), decisions as to abandoning thought to build RV10, ... and choosing RV9a over 7a for OUR proposed mission, I am now thinking to use the time to prepare my workshop. (May actually be useful, in addition to providing the psychological feeling of getting started.) I will obtain and set up tools, build worktables, run electrical and air. Most important, the building season here in the Northeast and other cold areas, would be too short without installing a heater of some kind. I will build in an attached garage with my children's bedrooms above on adjoining wall... and I must admit space heating solutions I have looked at make me a little bit nervous. The garage is uninsulated and has rafters and open loft space above (good for storage). Do I need to insulate? Close in walls, or space above? Are electrical heaters safer? Outside vented LP? If LP, tanks outside and run a line in? What are others doing? Thanks (as always). Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Meier, George" <George.Meier(at)goodrich.com>
Subject: Shop Heaters
Date: Nov 26, 2001
I had an unfinished hanger last year. We started with a 110 thousand BTU kerosene heater (the type that looks like a bullet and sounds like a jet engine). That provided ample heat with no ceiling or insulation. It got the room (2000 sq. ft.) up to a good working temperature in 10 minutes. We then put a ceiling up, and shot some cellulose above the ceiling (6"). In the spring we insulated the walls and put drywall up. What a difference. After that a simple 30 K BTU heater (kerosene) worked great. This summer I plumbed in a Natural Gas Radiant heater (110 K BTU) on a thermostat. It's now our second living room. The only thing we are lacking is a TV. I'd recommend a radiant heater to anyone. It's approved to run un-vented, but we vented ours since there is an aircraft in the hanger. George Meier RV6A - wings Michigan - snow belt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Shop Heaters
Date: Nov 26, 2001
I bought a second hand Empire propane heating unit. I also insulated the shop. I think that you will find yourself doing better work and working for longer periods of time in a warm space. Leave a high ceiling. You will be surprised at how many times you will be thankful for a lot of overhead space. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message-----I will build in an attached garage with my children's bedrooms above on adjoining wall... and I must admit space heating solutions I have looked at make me a little bit nervous. The garage is uninsulated and has rafters and open loft space above (good for storage). Do I need to insulate? Close in walls, or space above? Are electrical heaters safer? Outside vented LP? If LP, tanks outside and run a line in? What are others doing? Thanks (as always). Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shop Heaters
From: Allan.James(at)hstna.com
Date: Nov 26, 2001
18, 2001) at 11/26/2001 11:20:09 AM, Serialize complete at 11/26/2001 11:20:09 AM Robert, I don't have an attached garage, but I was very concerned about safety concerns with exhaust fumes from the furnace and explosive fumes from solvents being used in the building and painting process. Living in Michigan, I decided to insulate and drywall my garage and I installed a wall unit furnace by Williams International with an enclosed flame. There is no contact between the inside air and the flame in the furnace. The furnace draws air from the outside and exhausts to the outside. I would not recommend electric due the utility costs. I'm not sure, but I thought I heard that attached garages must be drywalled, but that probably varies by your local building codes. Hope this helps, Allan James RV-7A Emp. Huntington Woods, MI Miller Robert Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com 11/26/2001 09:23 AM Please respond to rv-list To: rv-list(at)matronics.com cc: Fax to: Subject: RV-List: Shop Heaters While making final, (or something like final), decisions as to abandoning thought to build RV10, ... and choosing RV9a over 7a for OUR proposed mission, I am now thinking to use the time to prepare my workshop. (May actually be useful, in addition to providing the psychological feeling of getting started.) I will obtain and set up tools, build worktables, run electrical and air. Most important, the building season here in the Northeast and other cold areas, would be too short without installing a heater of some kind. I will build in an attached garage with my children's bedrooms above on adjoining wall... and I must admit space heating solutions I have looked at make me a little bit nervous. The garage is uninsulated and has rafters and open loft space above (good for storage). Do I need to insulate? Close in walls, or space above? Are electrical heaters safer? Outside vented LP? If LP, tanks outside and run a line in? What are others doing? Thanks (as always). Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gaylen Lerohl" <lerohl@rea-alp.com>
Subject: Re: Shop Heaters
Date: Nov 26, 2001
I am building in a garage 14' x 22' with an insulated overhead door. It is too small but I had it, and it is paid for!! The walls and roof have 4" fiberglass bats for insulation covered with 1/2" sheet rock. The walls are painted off white and high intensity (two tube) fluorescent fixtures are mounted on the walls just below the eves so the light strikes the work area from each side avoiding shadows from overhead lighting. Work lights are not necessary except when working inside a structure. When outside temps are above 45 degrees the heat from the lamps maintain comfortable working temps. There is a single flush mounted in-wall electric heater with fan to keep it comfortable when outside temps go lower. The roof insulation and sheet rock is attached directly to the rafters leaving the space below for storage. The building is too short to comfortably work on the engine installation so for the winter months there is a temporary shelter attached to the door end. The shelter is made from steel tubing and a poly tarp in the shape of a Quonset hut. When working on the airplane the garage door is opened, the aft end of the airplane is pushed into the shelter and a tarp is dropped down to close the opening. I chose electric heat due to ease and cost of installation - electricity is already there, no fuel tanks or venting required. Regards, Gaylen Lerohl RV8, rotary (Mazda 13B NA) engine installation ----- Original Message ----- From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Shop Heaters > What are others doing? > Thanks (as always). > Robert > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Temporary Sign-off
Date: Nov 26, 2001
I have to go on the road for the next four weeks and will not be able to get good access to the list during that time, so I am temporarily signing off from the list. If anybody has any questions you can Email me directly at mrobert569(at)hotmail.com. To Don J. I will contact you next week in Arlington. Mike Robertson Das Fed RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Shop Heaters
Date: Nov 26, 2001
My garage is well insulated and attached to my house. The insulation between the house and the garage is poor so that the garage stays about 40 degrees when it is zero outside. I have weather-stripped the double wide overhead door and have 2 inches of foam insulation nailed to the door with a beveled joint at the hinges. The other place which would help a lot, I don't have insulated is the perimeter of the slab. As for a heater, several people have had good results if when pouring the slab, they include a plastic hot water coil. One can then use a small hot water heater and circulator pump with an antifreeze solution to make it very nice. Buck Hilbert even has a hangar with this heating system. He monitors the return line to keep it above 35 and then turns it on full when he wants to work. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Shop Heaters While making final, (or something like final), decisions as to abandoning thought to build RV10, ... and choosing RV9a over 7a for OUR proposed mission, I am now thinking to use the time to prepare my workshop. (May actually be useful, in addition to providing the psychological feeling of getting started.) I will obtain and set up tools, build worktables, run electrical and air. Most important, the building season here in the Northeast and other cold areas, would be too short without installing a heater of some kind. I will build in an attached garage with my children's bedrooms above on adjoining wall... and I must admit space heating solutions I have looked at make me a little bit nervous. The garage is uninsulated and has rafters and open loft space above (good for storage). Do I need to insulate? Close in walls, or space above? Are electrical heaters safer? Outside vented LP? If LP, tanks outside and run a line in? What are others doing? Thanks (as always). Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV3 Roll-over protection
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Thanks Bob, I think the confusion is beginning to clear. My drawings are dated 1973, and there isn't anything in the drawings or manual that shows any rollover structure. If you can e-mail me the sketch you're referring to, that would be great. I will also give Van's a call and see if they'll send me the drawings for the tipover canopy. I'm not sure the current canopy will be in good shape underneath the spray-on protective coating that it has, and there's still some work to do on the slider if I use it. I think I might actually prefer the tip-over canopy anyway, so I might end up changing it out. I just found out that there's a -3 in the area with the tip-over, so I'll be taking a look at it for comparison. I guess I'll decide what to do when I get all the options in front of me, but I do plan to have some rollover protection. Thanks again, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project Russ, The original drawings (1971-3) had only the sliding canopy and no roll-over structure. The later (1984) dwgs added the tip-over canopy as an option, and a built-up roll-over structure, which can be used with it (dwg 37). In the builder's notes, there is a sketch (SK-54A) of a welded steel tube A-frame (not a tripod but better than nothing . . ) for use with the sliding canopy, which I think Finn is referring to. It requires the frame cross-member to be positioned 1" aft, and restricts the opening by 1". If you don't have the sketch and notes I could email them over. Good luck Bob (UK) 3 fuselage being built on to new 3B wings (- new builder wants my old wings !!??) Original message: > I noticed that the RV-3 sliding canopy doesn't really provide much roll-over > protection. It certainly isn't anywhere close to what the RV-8 has. Has > anyone installed any sort of additional roll-over protection? Got any > pictures or suggestions (aside from building up my neck muscles )? > > Thanks, > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE > RV-3, Rotary engine project, old wings in the trash, new 3B wings on order > Hi Finn, > > It's funny, a picture of your engine is my current wallpaper, but I never > took any photos of the whole plane. I looked at the photo on Tracy's page, > and as I suspected, you have the tipover canopy. My project came with a > sliding canopy that's mostly finished. As I recall, the rear support tube > of the canopy frame runs from left to right, and comes to the very front of > the turtledeck when the canopy is closed. That will make it impossible to > install any sort of vertical structure behind the pilots head. It might be > possible to modify this canopy frame bar to work around the rollbar, and > that will certainly be one of the leading options. The other option would ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: -3B wing retrofit
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Bob (UK) 3 fuselage being built on to new 3B wings -------------------- Hey Bob, I wanted to ask about your 3B wing experience. Had you built the fuselage before ordering the new wings? In other words, did you have to replace an already existing center section? That's what I'll be doing when the new wings get here, but it doesn't look too bad. Fortunately, top front skin isn't on yet, and it looks like there's good access to everything that needs to be removed. The biggest worry at the moment is the spacing between the front and rear spar carry-though (hope it's right), and the fact that the original builder has already drilled the rear spar attachment hole. One of the (many) problems with his original wings was lack of sufficient edge distance on the attachment hole in rear spar itself. Even if the hole in the rear spar carry-through ends up being in a good location, the rear spar/doubler of the 3B wing will go (I assume) in front and rear of the rear spar angle. This will completely cover the existing hole, and make it difficult to match to the spar. I'm hoping they increased the size of this bolt, to give me some wiggle room, but more likely, I'll end up replacing the rear spar carry-though as well. Oh joy :-) Cheers, Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: lycoming
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming 0-320 Would you mind telling which model was 140 hp and which was 177hp? Jerry S Jerry, I'd have to look them up to get the exact model numbers, but the 140hp was issued in the orignal version of the Cherokee 140 cruiser (1966/67 roughly), and I think the 177hp was injected and in one of the Beech models like the muskateer. Beech then went to a 180hp 0-360 in it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon EFIS D10
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Dave, I signed up to be a beta tester, but they have not chosen the testers yet is the last word I had about two weeks ago. I assume they do not have the product ready is why they have not chosen the testers yet. Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla ----- Original Message ----- From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS D10 > > > Has anyone taken part in the beta testing of the Dynon system or heard > anything lately about their product coming out? > > Dave Ford > RV6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: "Doug Bell" <_dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
Subject: Re: RV Yeller Pages...
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/related multipart/alternative text/html audio/x-wav --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PurplePassion120(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Subject: Re: Claudio Tonnini Sun 100 race
Dannis good to here from you yes i race next sun 100 you can call me at mi shop 18005823125 Claudio . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: lycoming
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Bluebook says 140 hp lycoming from Cherokee 140 were O-320-E2A and E2D's later... Couldn't find a 177 hp on beech Muskateer... those have 165 hp IO-346-A or O320-D2B (1963 model) and 180hp O-360-A2G (68 and newer mod's) John "JT" Helms Branch Manager NationAir P + B Branch ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> Subject: RV-List: lycoming From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming 0-320 Would you mind telling which model was 140 hp and which was 177hp? Jerry S Jerry, I'd have to look them up to get the exact model numbers, but the 140hp was issued in the orignal version of the Cherokee 140 cruiser (1966/67 roughly), and I think the 177hp was injected and in one of the Beech models like the muskateer. Beech then went to a 180hp 0-360 in it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Subject: Re: ACS Switch Question - HELP!
Stein: unless you have a magneto buzz-box tester, you need to have the switch disconnected from the mag p-leads to check function with an ohmmeter. The reason is the p-lead will always read a short to ground via the coil winding. The buzz-box uses pulsed dc and therefore is able to sence an impedance change when the coil is grounded and/or the points open. Bottom line: you need to measure impedance in this application, rather than dc resistance. Now, if you are measuring switch contact resistance with the switch not yet installed, that is a different matter and you do indeed have problems. I did not use toggles, but if I had it to do over, I certainly would! Bill Boyd 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PurplePassion120(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Subject: Re: Claudio Tonnini Sun 100 race
Mike i am back on the list and i am worcking on R V 8 call me at shop 1 800 5823125 or call home 732 5916942 thanks for help me Claudio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
In a earlier post I mentioned "Post Curing" as a way to increase Room Temperature Cure epoxy/ glass structures, resistance to the effects of heat. This was the norm for any loaded (stressed) structures, such as the canard on Quickie, Q2 and Dragonfly, since it was also the landing gear. The older RTC epoxies such as the RAE system which Burt used, had a very low (165F approx.) creep (softening) point. By post curing you could raise the creep point by approx. 25F. The newer epoxy systems in general have a higher creep point. The epoxy used on Van's "S" cowl is probably a heat cure system. These have a much higher creep temperature. Van probably used this type, not so much for it's heat stability (although that may have been a factor), but for the ability to make more parts in a day. With RTC epoxies, you need approx. 12 hrs for cure before the part can be pulled from the mold. So you get only one part per day per mold. With a heat cure system you could get 3 or more parts per day per mold. We all know how frugal Van is, my assumption is he is using a heat cure system and that is why the cowls are not effected by the heat. Garry "Casper" Garth Shearing wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting) > > In Burt Rutan's "Finishing the Composite Aircraft, Section V of the VariEze > Manufacturing Manual", he sets forth the reasoning behind his recommending a > basically white exterior on structural members of a composite aircraft using > room temperature-cured epoxy since those epoxies soften starting at around > 160 degrees F. He reproduced a graph from a September 1975 article in > Soaring Magazine which shows the temperature of surfaces painted various > colors versus ambient air temperature. I'll post a few numbers off that > graph. > > Ambient Air Temperature of 110 degrees F. Amb. Air Temperature of 70 > degrees F. > > White 163 F > 118 F > Yellow and pink 169 > 124 > Lt. Blue and Alum. 176 > 130 > Purple and Blue 184 > 135 > Light Green 192 > 143 > Orange & Tan 198 > 149 > Red and Green 218 > 166 > Brown 231 > 178 > Black 238 > 184 > > However, I don't know what the characteristics of the epoxy used in the RV > cowlings are. It's unlikely, but they could be using a high temperature > variety. Does anybody else know? > > A problem I have with this data: There are lots of aircraft using glass > cowlings which must be experiencing temperatures well above 160 F a few > minutes after shut down on a hot day, particularly near an exhaust pipe, and > they seem to be hanging in there. Cowlings aren't structural, but...... > > Garth Shearing > VariEze and 80% RV6A > Victoria BC Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: lycoming
Date: Nov 26, 2001
I've got an -E2A in my -8. It's no different than a standard 150-hp -320, except that it's derated by nameplate showing 140-hp at ~2450 rpm. I've added high comp pistons to it since installed in the plane for near 160-hp and is working well after ~260 hrs. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: SCAT tube route????
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Hello all, Plan to run the 2" vent SCAT tubing through the wing rib lightening holes from the under wing NACA vent to the fuselage. Was wondering how everyone has done this. Thought I would use a 2" hose clamp with an "L" shaped bracket riveted to the clamp and the wing rib to hold the tube in the middle of the lightening hole. That's about clear as mud. Does this sound ok? Thanks, Jack RV8, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: SCAT tube route????
Date: Nov 26, 2001
> >Hello all, >Plan to run the 2" vent SCAT tubing through the wing rib lightening holes >from the under wing NACA vent to the fuselage. Was wondering how everyone >has done this. Thought I would use a 2" hose clamp with an "L" shaped >bracket riveted to the clamp and the wing rib to hold the tube in the >middle >of the lightening hole. That's about clear as mud. Does this sound ok? >Thanks, >Jack >RV8, wings > Jack, Just run it through the rib lightening holes and through an appropriately sized hole in the fuselage side AND the inboard, right side floor rib to access the eyeball vent. Hose clamps work fine for attachment at either end. No need to bracket/clamp/support the tube along it's run. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 269 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Returned mail: see transcript for details]
Robert and list. I tried to reply offline but was unsuccessful. Do not archieve. John Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:11:37 -0600 (CST) From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON> Subject: Returned mail: see transcript for details Auto-Submitted: auto-generated (failure) This is a MIME-encapsulated message --fAQHBbl28622.1006794697/granger.centurytel.net from ppp199.hk.centurytel.net [207.230.218.230] ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors ----- (reason: 550 miller3(at)earthlink.net...User unknown) ----- Transcript of session follows ----- ... while talking to mx01.earthlink.net.: >>> RCPT To: <<< 550 miller3(at)earthlink.net...User unknown 550 5.1.1 ... User unknown --fAQHBbl28622.1006794697/granger.centurytel.net Reporting-MTA: dns; granger.centurytel.net Received-From-MTA: DNS; ppp199.hk.centurytel.net Arrival-Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:11:35 -0600 (CST) Final-Recipient: RFC822; miller3(at)earthlink.net Action: failed Remote-MTA: DNS; mx01.earthlink.net Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 miller3(at)earthlink.net...User unknown Last-Attempt-Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:11:37 -0600 (CST) --fAQHBbl28622.1006794697/granger.centurytel.net Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:10:43 -0500 From: John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net> Subject: Re: Shop Heaters Good morning Robert. I am expecting delivery of my 9A kit in January. I live in northern Wisconsin and it started snowing this morning. It does get cold here. I am finishing up a Zenith 601HDS...I know ...I know... but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Before I started the Zenith, I built an insulated shop in one end of my outside pole building and heated it with a salvaged LP heater vented to the outside.It is fed by the same outside tank that supplies propane to my house. This worked fine for completing the empenage, outboard wings, and beginning the fusilage. The Zenith fusilage is attached to a center wing section in which the landing gear is mounted. To complete the fusilage with tail section mounted I had to move the project into the uninsulated part of the pole building for the summer/fall. Recently I rolled the completed fusilage into one half of my attached two car garage to hang the engine, run wiring and tubes, and complete the firewall forward before bolting on the outboard wings. My garage is insulated and I still have storage above ( fiberglass insulation under plywood I screwed to the rafters ). It is not heated however; and I am planning to blow warm air into the garage from the room next to it. Long story short...I believe that insulating your garage would pay even if you were not building an RV. You could then install a vent through the wall and blow warm air into the garage/shop from the house when needed. No additional heater required and the noise of the air compressor and rivit gun would not disturb the family. Good luck. I think you made a great choice. John Carillon --fAQHBbl28622.1006794697/granger.centurytel.net-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Subject: Carb Heat
From: Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
There has been some discussion lately about the effectiveness (or lack thereof) of certain carb heat systems. Well I now know mine works. I have a Vetterman crossover exhaust system with two Robbins muffs each sending warm air to it's own RV-4 style (TG-10) heat box. For carb heat I used Van's EA carb heat muff strapped to the crossover pipe plumbed through a DL-07 adapter to the carb air box. During my runups the RPM drop is almost imperceptible but I think it is effective enough. Today I went flying and it was very humid (it was foggy/drizzly earlier) and the OAT at 3,500 msl was about 45F. I was just loafing along at about 2350 RPM (Sensenich FP) and I noticed my EGT's on #3 and #4 were dropping. #1 and #2 were okay. The RPM was falling off slightly but the engine was still smooth. I pulled the carb heat on and the EGT's all dropped then evened out. The engine roughened for a second then smoothed out. Carb heat off, EGT's back to where they should be. Classic carb ice encounter. Anecdote yes, evidence no but I am satisfied with my set-up. Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM, O-360-A1A, 160 hrs Inver Grove Hgts, Minnesota ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Vans Eye-Ball cockpit Lite
Does anyone happen to have a extra Vans eyeball cockpit lite they would like to sell ??? Thanks John McMahon (Wiring) 863JJ reserved Do not reserve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ebay O-320 listing
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Folks, I saw an auction for an O-320A2B with 208 hr. SMOH on Ebay. Item number is 1669420995. Might be worth a look for those in need of a Lycosaur. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 269 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat
This is where the IceMan system would shine. If you're going to the trouble of installing a carb air temp gauge; for almost the same money an iceman system using a probe containing a photoelectic sensor across the carb throat from a LED light source( that all screws into the same hole as the temp probe) can be installed. The probe is physically shaped to ice up before the carb will and the difference in light being received at the eye will light a warning light and (optionally) a audible warning in the headset. I've had people look at the little "stove" that Van makes to mount on the crossover pipe just above the carb heat flapper and wonder how it could possibly put out as much heat as the much-larger cabin heat muffs. The answer is in its air supply. It uses air that has already passed across the cylinder cooling fins while the muffs use virtually ambient air from the over-engine pressure box. A builder who just stopped by to make sure I'm not slacking off has the same system but with a temp gauge and says he's getting a 75F rise. Scott in Vancouver RV-6 systems install ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael D Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com> Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat > > > There has been some discussion lately about the effectiveness (or > lack thereof) of certain carb heat systems. Well I now know mine works. I > have a Vetterman crossover exhaust system with two Robbins muffs each > sending warm air to it's own RV-4 style (TG-10) heat box. For carb heat I > used Van's EA carb heat muff strapped to the crossover pipe plumbed > through a DL-07 adapter to the carb air box. During my runups the RPM > drop is almost imperceptible but I think it is effective enough. > Today I went flying and it was very humid (it was foggy/drizzly > earlier) and the OAT at 3,500 msl was about 45F. I was just loafing along > at about 2350 RPM (Sensenich FP) and I noticed my EGT's on #3 and #4 were > dropping. #1 and #2 were okay. The RPM was falling off slightly but the > engine was still smooth. I pulled the carb heat on and the EGT's all > dropped then evened out. The engine roughened for a second then smoothed > out. Carb heat off, EGT's back to where they should be. Classic carb ice > encounter. Anecdote yes, evidence no but I am satisfied with my set-up. > > > Mike Hilger > RV-6 N207AM, O-360-A1A, 160 hrs > Inver Grove Hgts, Minnesota > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Pulsating Instrument Lights?
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Van warns that you may get flickering lights and voltmeter readings when using switching regulators.The warning was on the "spec" that I got when I purchased my alternator.. I observed this phenomena on Bernie Kerr's RV6A on a night flight to Memphis, TN. I've heard of other RV flyers experiencing flickering also. I plan to use a linear voltage regulator, that I'm purchasing from B&C, for my RV6. Gabe A Ferrer (Building RV6) Cell: 561 758 8894 Voice or Fax: 561 622 0960 Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lui" <_signco(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 50 Msgs - 11/21/01
Date: Nov 26, 2001
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/related multipart/alternative text/html audio/x-wav --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: "Rick Lutes" <_rlutes(at)owc.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 71 Msgs - 07/26/01
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/related multipart/alternative text/html audio/x-wav --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Don't Miss The Video...
Hey Listers! Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy Gold of The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is donating a FREE COPY of the new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS) to any List Member making a Contribution of $50 or more! To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check via the USMail: Van's RV Story Video Offer $50 or Greater Contributor [your name] [your shipping address] [your City, State and Zip Code] If you've already made a Contribution of $50 or more during the 2001 Fund Raiser and would still like to receive the video, please drop me an email ( dralle(at)matronics.com ) and include the information shown above with the following Subject Line: Subject: Video Offer Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available in about 8 weeks. I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of interesting, informative, and exceptionally useful books and videos on his site. Please have a look! I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Just a few more days until I send out the List of Contributors for 2001. Make your Contribution today to make sure your name is on the LOC!! Thank you! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2001
Subject: New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Subject: Tom Martin HRII #28 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fairlea@execulink.com/index.html --------------------------------- EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Subject: Paint Scheme http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/enewton57@cableone.net/index.html --------------------------------- EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton Bland" <miltonbland(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV6A kit for sale
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Complete RV6A Quickbuild kit for sale. Purchased in Feb.2000. Inventory completed but I have not had time to begin construction. Options include firewall recess, tip-up canopy, aileron trim, landing light, static air, fresh air, dynafocal 1, finishing kit, dual steps, rudder light. Located near Lawrence, KS. I may be able to deliver depending on destination. Asking $21,000 or best offer. Milton Bland miltonbland(at)hotmail.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Paint Sceme
Date: Nov 27, 2001
I have kind of settled on a paint scheme for our RV-6A. I liked the striping design of the RV-7 prototype so I copied that and added a couple of variations. The whole thing was put into a computer rendering by Glenn Gordon at email dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com Glenn was very patient and did a great job. If you need a rendering, get with him and he will design it however you want, at a reasonable price. You can see the paint scheme here: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/enewton57@cableone.net/index.html Blue Skies, Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying - down for 10 hour inspection and paint prep) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: TFR Shuttle Launch
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Hope Paul and Victoria Rosales saw this. Eric The FAA has issued a new temporary flight restriction (TFR) for central Florida based on reasons of national security. The NOTAM is effective from 1:45 a.m. to 8:45 p.m. November 29 and prohibits all Part 91 general aviation operations within 30 nautical miles of the shuttle launch pad (30 nm on the MLB VOR 004 degree radial) up to 18,000 feet. In addition, all Part 91 operations will be required to obtain a discrete transponder code and clearance from the appropriate ATC facility prior to entering the airspace within a 30- to 40-nm radius of the launch area. Pilots must also maintain continuous radio communications in this airspace. Because shuttle launches are frequently delayed, it is critical that pilots check the latest information from FSS during preflight or with ATC if in-flight before entering the airspace. The NOTAM could be extended. "While nobody likes airspace restrictions, we are appreciative that the FAA responded to our request and released this NOTAM early enough to give pilots the opportunity to relocate aircraft or make alternate plans for flights through the eastern half of Florida," said AOPA President Phil Boyer. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Fw: TFR Shuttle Launch
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Eric Newton Subject: TFR Shuttle Launch Hope Paul and Victoria Rosales saw this. Eric The FAA has issued a new temporary flight restriction (TFR) for central Florida based on reasons of national security. The NOTAM is effective from 1:45 a.m. to 8:45 p.m. November 29 and prohibits all Part 91 general aviation operations within 30 nautical miles of the shuttle launch pad (30 nm on the MLB VOR 004 degree radial) up to 18,000 feet. In addition, all Part 91 operations will be required to obtain a discrete transponder code and clearance from the appropriate ATC facility prior to entering the airspace within a 30- to 40-nm radius of the launch area. Pilots must also maintain continuous radio communications in this airspace. Because shuttle launches are frequently delayed, it is critical that pilots check the latest information from FSS during preflight or with ATC if in-flight before entering the airspace. The NOTAM could be extended. "While nobody likes airspace restrictions, we are appreciative that the FAA responded to our request and released this NOTAM early enough to give pilots the opportunity to relocate aircraft or make alternate plans for flights through the eastern half of Florida," said AOPA President Phil Boyer. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl (Was: Baffle/cowling painting)
A few years ago I was on a team to evaluate the Slingsby T3 Firefly aircraft at the Colorado Springs Air Force Academy for my company. The wing internal temperature probe which is used to determine the wing structural limit, had to be relocated away from the dark blue Air Force insignia. Apparently the wing was out of limits while sitting in the sun. Dark surfaces do get hot and painting an RV engine cowling would not be a good idea considering how hot it gets from the inside already. A dull paint would serve the purpose to reduce glare if that was the original intention. Greg Schmidt RV-6S N250GS Finishing the wiring Phoenix DVT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint Sceme
That looks like a neat paint scheme, Eric! I like the pattern on the -7 prototype too, and I may even stick with Vans' colours... That is, if I don't go with a Snowbirds-inspired scheme like i've planned so far (http://www.b4.ca/rv7/images/robs/rv-7_3view_mod.gif). Has anyone else noticed the large number of people who paint their RV's wings with a pattern that distinctively breaks up the rectangular planform? From the photos and physical examples i've seen, my guess is that more than 50% of the RV's flying have some kind of pattern on the wing that tries to make it look less than rectangular. If I were Van, i'd be taking this as an indication that it's time for a tapered wing kit for the RV's... Anyone else agree with me? -RB4 rv7 "at" b4.ca http://www.b4.ca/rv7 Eric Newton wrote: > I have kind of settled on a paint scheme for our RV-6A. I liked the > striping design of the RV-7 prototype so I copied that and added a > couple of variations. The whole thing was put into a computer rendering > by Glenn Gordon at email dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com > Glenn was very patient and did a great job. If you need a rendering, > get with him and he will design it however you want, at a reasonable > price. You can see the paint scheme here: > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/enewton57@cableone.net/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Wingtip Attach
Howdy 'list- Has anyone tried/considered/decided against using hinges to attach the wingtips similar to attaching the cowling? Seems it would be about the same amount of time involved to install, not much weight difference, and mighty easy to remove and replace. Perhaps a short pin on the tip into a hole in the LE rib to locate the very front, with the "pull" end of the hinge pins being bent 90 degrees and secured into holes in the rear tip rib, accessible by deflecting the aileron... Any thoughts? From the PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-8 Control Stick
Date: Nov 27, 2001
It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? Rich Crosley Fuselage RV-8 N948RC reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-8 Control Stick
Date: Nov 27, 2001
It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? Rich Crosley Fuselage RV-8 N948RC reserved ------------------- Yep, cut it off. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Paint Sceme
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
01:26:45 PM Yikes, every rib is different? Its a lot easier to put on a tricky paint job and swept wing tips. Boy the new tips really make a difference when viewed from the ground. This is usually my perspective, sigh, maybe some day all these parts will flap in unison to create lift. I think the -6/-7 is the hardest plane to design a scheme for. Ever notice that some paint jobs are very slimming and some just make the plane look like a pregnant guppy. Little tricks on the -6 with the paint job can make it look two feet longer. Just because the scheme looked good on a Lear or a Bonanza you saw does not mean it will look good on your fat little stubby winged homebuilt. Of course I meant that in the lovin way. Eric Rob Prior (at)matronics.com on 11/27/2001 11:50:09 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Sceme That looks like a neat paint scheme, Eric! I like the pattern on the -7 prototype too, and I may even stick with Vans' colours... That is, if I don't go with a Snowbirds-inspired scheme like i've planned so far (http://www.b4.ca/rv7/images/robs/rv-7_3view_mod.gif). Has anyone else noticed the large number of people who paint their RV's wings with a pattern that distinctively breaks up the rectangular planform? From the photos and physical examples i've seen, my guess is that more than 50% of the RV's flying have some kind of pattern on the wing that tries to make it look less than rectangular. If I were Van, i'd be taking this as an indication that it's time for a tapered wing kit for the RV's... Anyone else agree with me? -RB4 rv7 "at" b4.ca http://www.b4.ca/rv7 Eric Newton wrote: > I have kind of settled on a paint scheme for our RV-6A. I liked the > striping design of the RV-7 prototype so I copied that and added a > couple of variations. The whole thing was put into a computer rendering > by Glenn Gordon at email dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com > Glenn was very patient and did a great job. If you need a rendering, > get with him and he will design it however you want, at a reasonable > price. You can see the paint scheme here: > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/enewton57@cableone.net/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attach
Excellent-sounding idea, Mark. I don't see any real drawbacks. No question it would be easier to remove and install wingtips in the field this way. I have had to remove them more times since completing my RV than I would have thought, and with work planned for wingtip antennae later this season, the need is ongoing... Bill B 6A 200 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-8 Control Stick
That's what I did... I cut it so I could have my thumb up in the PTT and still get it under the panel... http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/control1.jpg -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick --> It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? Rich Crosley Fuselage RV-8 N948RC reserved = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Control Stick
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Why not bend it like Lyle?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? Rich Crosley Fuselage RV-8 N948RC reserved ------------------- Yep, cut it off. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Control Stick
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Cutting it off worked just fine for me providing a very comfortable range of motion. Like Bill said, make sure you cut it off short enough to allow your thumb to clear the btm of the panel. bending would be unnecessary work and put the stick too close to me, based in my experience. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas >From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick >Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 13:36:43 -0600 > > >Why not bend it like Lyle?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-8 Control Stick
Check out the stick in the Pioneer 300S... http://www.airplane4sale.com/N26AA%20Control%20panel.gif -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick Why not bend it like Lyle?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? Rich Crosley Fuselage RV-8 N948RC reserved ------------------- Yep, cut it off. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE RV-3, Rotary engine project = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Paul & Vicky/Clearwater
Dear Listers just to give those following Paul And Vicky's progress, they are saftly in Clearwater Florida. Jim Norman and i flew in Jims very nice Archer to see the airplane this morning. I can see why it won an outstanding workmanship award. what a very nice airplane. Paul arrived to give is friends a ride and generously offered myself and jim a ride. I felt we were interupting his vacation, and jim wanted his wife to get a ride. maybe tomorrow morning would be better, the invitation was extended till tomorrow. anyone locally wants to see one nice rv, its at clearwater airpark. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Heat Shielding for Cowl
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Here are some more reasons that Van's now sells the sticky-back shielding material. The changes in cowl design/materials improved things like strength to weight, warping prior to installation, shrinking, increased thermal stability, etc. However, the kit airplane gods always seem to throw in a little bad with a lot of good. I will therefore dwell on the few issues that the builder should consider with this new cowl. Because the subject is "heat shielding" I'll sneak by things like the importance of filling pin holes on the inside and the criticality of hinge alignment that were not as important on the less stable polyester non composite cowls. The new cowls are mostly a composite structure with an air/honeycomb core with some foam used to transition the composite to non composite areas. The outer and inner layers in the composite area are very thin (about 0.010) and do not support clecos or rivets without bonded reinforcement or solid fill. Because the core is mostly air it is an insulator to heat transfer. This fact is what led to the heat shield requirement. On several RVs that I have been involved with, the first indication that there was a problem with overall heat dissipation in the cowl was a "toasting" of the inner layer of frp adjacent to the exhaust pipes. This started to show in the first few hours of flight. If allowed to develop it had serious consequences (see URL). In time the product that Van's now sells was discovered at Boeing. After many hours of flight testing, this shielding has been proven quite effective. While it is not the only game is town, it offers advantages like; light weight, easy application, oil proof, adhesive that gets stronger with heat and it can be patched with itself. It is nothing more than a very heavy weight aluminum foil with an excellent self stick adhesive. It has a peel off backing material. It can be effectively applied to compound curves and can be used as a heat reflector elsewhere by molding it around things or layering it to a foam sound deadening product. How does it work? First it reflects IR radiation then what heat it does absorb it spreads over a large area (conduction) which in turn is dissipated by air flow (convection) through the cowl. Aluminum is highly heat conductive while stainless steel is not. As for the upper cowl, it gets very hot after landing(heat soaks), especially over the cylinders. My current thinking is that, for the same reasons, this heat shield material would be effective there also. Some builders have installed a small pressure closed, drop down door, just ahead of the rear baffle that falls open when the plane stops. This creates a chimney effect to cool the upper cowl. http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/toasted_cowl.html Thanks Randal, P.S. Randals pictures show a great job of, and a carefully done repair. If you use this product/method, you could extend the foil higher up the sides for even more thermal mass. Good Luck, Gary & ?(test) _______ \/)"(\/ (_o_) ruff!!!!!! / \/) (| | | |) oo-oo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Paul & Vicky/Clearwater
oops sorry Laird, he hit a seagull that bruised his right wingtip, so he is in a club with you. real nice people. sorry i didn't catch her name right, i'm hard of hearing. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Control Stick
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Yes ... you need to cut the stick down. Rick Jory RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: Crosley, Rich <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Control Stick > > It appears that the forward control stick needs to be cut down to clear the > panel. Is that how it is working out for the rest of you RV-8 guys? > > Rich Crosley > Fuselage RV-8 > N948RC reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: jim, anyone you know?
B. Reg. No.: 15VP M/M: RV4 Desc: PITTS RV-4Activity: Pleasure Phase: Landing GA-A/C: General AviationDescr: AIRCRAFT ENGINE QUIT WHILE PRACTICE LANDING, TRIED TO GLIDE BACK TO FIELD, WAS TOO LOW AND HIT TREES, BURGAW, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Castellano" <tcastell(at)bestweb.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attach
Date: Nov 27, 2001
I was planning on attaching my wingtips with hinges so I could remove and replace them easily in order to get in and out of my little hangar. I checked with Van's, and they could not see any disadvantage to doing it. I even bought the hinges but decided against it since I wouldn't be able to get my RV6 in the hangar anyway. My tips are screwed on. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net> Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Attach > > Howdy 'list- > > Has anyone tried/considered/decided against using hinges to attach the > wingtips similar to attaching the cowling? Seems it would be about the > same amount of time involved to install, not much weight difference, and > mighty easy to remove and replace. Perhaps a short pin on the tip into > a hole in the LE rib to locate the very front, with the "pull" end of > the hinge pins being bent 90 degrees and secured into holes in the rear > tip rib, accessible by deflecting the aileron... Any thoughts? > > From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark Phillips > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint Sceme
I started thinking about this while I was doing the dishes this evening... You know, a little housework in exchange for some shop time... 8-) I was agreeing that it'd be a lot easier to build a straight wing and paint it angular than to build an angular wing. But now i'm not so sure. Consider this: What're the first parts you build on your aircraft? The Empennage. None of which is rectangular or regular. About the only thing going for it is that each part is symmetrical about at least one plane. So you already have experience building non-rectangular things, where every rib is different. Not only that, but Van starts you that way, so it can't be the most difficult, right? Worst case, you need to build a slightly longer jig. Best case, you build the wings the same way you do now. They're self-jigging anyway. How are all these kits made nowdays? Pre-cut, pre-punched, and matched hole. I don't know what method they use to cut the shapes out of the sheet material at the factory, but they end up with nicely matched parts for the empennage kits, at least. If it's some kind of NC cutter, the difference in the sheet metal would be a new .DXF file to send to the cutter. Ditto for the ribs. So all that would be necessary is a new set of forms for pressing the ribs into shape. You still need to flute, but you had to do that anyway. Unless i'm missing something incredibly fundamental about the method, there's no real reason why it couldn't be done... And it has been, once at least: http://www.ontariorvators.org/members_pages/fried.htm -RB4 Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote: > Yikes, every rib is different? Its a lot easier to put on a tricky paint > job and swept wing tips. Boy the new tips really make a difference when > viewed from the ground. This is usually my perspective, sigh, maybe some > day all these parts will flap in unison to create lift. > > I think the -6/-7 is the hardest plane to design a scheme for. Ever notice > that some paint jobs are very slimming and some just make the plane look > like a pregnant guppy. Little tricks on the -6 with the paint job can make > it look two feet longer. Just because the scheme looked good on a Lear or a > Bonanza you saw does not mean it will look good on your fat little stubby > winged homebuilt. Of course I meant that in the lovin way. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attach
just woundering why? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl
Or you could just steal your wife's roll of Reynolds Wrap and stick it on with epoxy as I suggested in a previous post. Garry "Casper" 60 hrs and no cowl problems. Gary Graham wrote: > > Here are some more reasons that Van's now sells the sticky-back shielding > material. > Snip > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2001
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Brown Tool Gift Certificate Reminder...
Hi Listers, Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has generously offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making Contributions of $30 or more this year! Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure Credit Card Contribution Web Site at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or by sending a personal check Contribution to: Matronics Email Lists c/o Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site or Catalog." The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List Contribution and is according to the following: $100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate! or $30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate! ==================== How To Receive Your Certificate =================== To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to: browntooloffer(at)matronics.com and include the following information: 1) Subject Line: Tool Offer 2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25) 3) [Your Name] 4) [Your Mailing Address] 5) [Your City, State Zip] ** Please only use the email address shown above ( browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate! *** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for the Gift Certificate! But, you have to follow the instructions above to receive it! ==================== How To Receive Your Certificate =================== You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks. I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools. I would like to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution in this year's Fund Raiser! Thank you!! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Heat Shielding for Cowl
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Nov 28, 2001
09:03:05 AM Morning Metal Junkies. Sounds like there are two potential probelms with the current RV cowl. Heat resistance and wall thickness. Here in S. Florida there is a big boy candy store called Joe's Auto Marine. Its a composite supplier and the people behind the counter are composite engineers and boy do they know their stuff. You can call them with a problem and they will give you a recommendation for the fix. This thread looked like a good enough reason for me to bug them, so seeing how I always learn a new trick any time I speak to them I didn't hesitate to call. The owner (that would be Joe) answered the phone and I told him the problem. He said he just had that exact problem on his plane, the pipes burned through the cowl. "Here's the fix says Joe". Its a high temp resin capable of withstanding a constant heat of 350 degrees and a short term heat of 400 degrees. It is also fuel resistant as Joe had just rebuilt his wing tanks in his fast glass bird with the stuff. By comparison, he says the heat tolerance for West Systems is 130 degrees and Aeropoxy is 160 degrees. He also said there were three bummers about the stuff: Its expensive (I'm sure you are as shocked as I am). An 8lb kit is $100.00. Its hard to mix and you must use a scale as it mixes in an exact 100/12 ratio, sorry no pumps. Once cured, you can't do anything with it. Forget sanding. He said it will chew the teeth off a cheap home depot hole saw in just one hole. It cures like granite. Joe recommended using it with one of the neato hybred cloths he sells. He sells a 4oz Carbon - S glass hybred that is extremely tough and not too expensive. If I remember correctly its about 1/4 the price of carbon cloth. Joe said the resin wets out real nice and is easy to work with and when used with this glass makes an extremely thin layer but it is tough enough to change the overall stiffness characteristics of your entire cowl. This means lay it up and let it dry with the cowl bolted on or you may never get it back into shape. One last thing, Joe's Auto Marine does not sell the stuff. Gotta love a guy that will pass up a sale to do ya right. He's a plane builder after all. The stuff is available at United Resin, Inc Royal Oak, Mi (248) 549-8200 Ask for John Los Part numbers are: Resin Lcast 760 036-676-20-52 Hardener AS-100 010-939-2501 Joe's Auto Marine (954) 527-9200 Website is WWW.Jarmco.com They have a nice catalogue with all kinds of toys for boys that like to make noise. Eric Henson Gary Graham (at)matronics.com on 11/27/2001 04:21:29 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Heat Shielding for Cowl Here are some more reasons that Van's now sells the sticky-back shielding material. The changes in cowl design/materials improved things like strength to weight, warping prior to installation, shrinking, increased thermal stability, etc. However, the kit airplane gods always seem to throw in a little bad with a lot of good. I will therefore dwell on the few issues that the builder should consider with this new cowl. Because the subject is "heat shielding" I'll sneak by things like the importance of filling pin holes on the inside and the criticality of hinge alignment that were not as important on the less stable polyester non composite cowls. The new cowls are mostly a composite structure with an air/honeycomb core with some foam used to transition the composite to non composite areas. The outer and inner layers in the composite area are very thin (about 0.010) and do not support clecos or rivets without bonded reinforcement or solid fill. Because the core is mostly air it is an insulator to heat transfer. This fact is what led to the heat shield requirement. On several RVs that I have been involved with, the first indication that there was a problem with overall heat dissipation in the cowl was a "toasting" of the inner layer of frp adjacent to the exhaust pipes. This started to show in the first few hours of flight. If allowed to develop it had serious consequences (see URL). In time the product that Van's now sells was discovered at Boeing. After many hours of flight testing, this shielding has been proven quite effective. While it is not the only game is town, it offers advantages like; light weight, easy application, oil proof, adhesive that gets stronger with heat and it can be patched with itself. It is nothing more than a very heavy weight aluminum foil with an excellent self stick adhesive. It has a peel off backing material. It can be effectively applied to compound curves and can be used as a heat reflector elsewhere by molding it around things or layering it to a foam sound deadening product. How does it work? First it reflects IR radiation then what heat it does absorb it spreads over a large area (conduction) which in turn is dissipated by air flow (convection) through the cowl. Aluminum is highly heat conductive while stainless steel is not. As for the upper cowl, it gets very hot after landing(heat soaks), especially over the cylinders. My current thinking is that, for the same reasons, this heat shield material would be effective there also. Some builders have installed a small pressure closed, drop down door, just ahead of the rear baffle that falls open when the plane stops. This creates a chimney effect to cool the upper cowl. http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/toasted_cowl.html Thanks Randal, P.S. Randals pictures show a great job of, and a carefully done repair. If you use this product/method, you could extend the foil higher up the sides for even more thermal mass. Good Luck, Gary & ?(test) _______ \/)"(\/ (_o_) ruff!!!!!! / \/) (| | | |) oo-oo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Engine OH
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Thanks Charlie,Gary & Kyle: He has built 2 other engines for me. I just wondered why. If they were torqued OK & I have 1200 SMOH. We would expect them to go to 2000, if the engine had not set for 9 years I caused it to be inspected. I do a lot of praying when the shaft goes over there. That can be big $$$. Also, I have read the SB & the 96 AD on the oil gears. I have a hardened shaft & drive gear. the driven is aluminum & the cover is one piece. BUT, I can not find a "N" or "C" on drive gear. Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx dons6a(at)juno.com *************************************** writes: > > Don > Your mechanic's recommendations tell me that he is very through and > conscientious. It is a wise idea to replace the rod nuts and bolts > ANY time an > engine is torn down. This is fairly standard practice even in the > auto and > motorcycle repair trades. Your connecting rod bolts are some of the > most > highly stressed parts of your engine. Your mechanic wants to install > new parts > to insure that you don't have a catastrophic failure down the road. > Since your cylinders are rusty, your mechanic will have to hone the > cylinders > to remove the rust. While installing the old rings might work, it > might not. I > certainly would feel uncomfortable reusing old rings in any engine I > assembled > and had to guarantee my work. If you insist he reuse the old rings, > don't be > surprised if your mechanic tells you that if you have cylinder > sealing or oil > usage problems, that you are on your own. I certainly would. > Charlie Kuss > RV-8A fuselage > Boca Raton, Fl. > > > > > i have my engine disassembled & will take the crank & rods to be > > inspected tomorrow. > > > > I have torn down for an inspection only. The engine has set for 9 > years. > > The lower end looks real good along with the cam & lifters, but > the > > cylinder had rust from the rings. I have steel cylinders. > > > > My A&P wants new rod bolts & nuts. Any good reason for this?? > > > > Also he wants new rings, looks like the old one would do fine. > > > > any comments? > > > > I have had 2 new RV's fly away this month. Sure getting tired of > working > > and NOT flying with them. > > Got to meet Paul & Victoria Rosales from Ca. this morning. They > sure got > > a fine machine. > > > > Don Jordan, Arlington, Tx N6DJ > > > > [########---------------------14.5%----------------------------] > > > messages. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Subject: crotch strap kit
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
does anyone know if the crotch strap mounting kit that Van lists for the -7 & -9 will work on a -6A? If yes, is the kit for one seat or two? tia Robert Dickson RV-6A fwf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Subject: Re: Paul & Victoria Update
Dear Listers, With all the bad luck i have had in the last 2 weeks, being burglered 2 times with airplane damage and all my tools stolen again, today put a smile back on my face that will last a while. Paul & Victoria graciously came by my home airport ( peter o knight in Tampa ) and gave me a ride, or should i say let me fly his airplane. i can't begin to tell you what a nice couple these people are, taking time out of their vacation to give a lowly rv builder and his brother a ride. after a few seat cousion adjustments, i managed to get my 280 lb. can in place, and the seat belt actually fit around my waste. that diet is starting to pay off, but i still have a long way to go. he let me fly it for 1/2 hour practicing fast, slow, turns, approaches etc... I must admitt, i can't wait until i can handle the rv as smooth as he can. the controls are soooo sensitive it will take me awhile to get used to it. ( did you ever experience the twin control stick sydrome, you guys know what i'm talking about.) Paul said it takes about 4 hours to get used to it. everything happens very quickly and you MUST be ahead of that RV. My brother Bruce has a grin permentaly attached to his face, and he can't wait till i've got mine flying so he can learn to fly in it. The evasive manuver Paul had to take to dodge a buzzard, surprised the heck out of him. After a photo session, Paul & Victoria mounted up and took off. We were just about to walk to our vehicles when all of a sudden he made a low, high speed pass down the runway, and pulled up hard. what a show. They are heading to Bernies at Treasure coast, so maybe Bernie can pick up the updates from here. Paul & Victoria, if you get this e-mail. I can't thank you guys enough. i will be building now faster than the speed of sound. Thanks Again. scott reviere Tampa RV Grin'n for awhile ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: crotch strap kit
Robert, The kit is for both sides. I bought one for my 6, and although I haven't installed it yet, it seems like it should work. On my QB, the space between the seat ribs isn't the same on both sides. It's too tight to fit the brackets on one side. I'll probably have to cut the brackets and rivet on another flange to get the spacing right. It's definitely lighter than the angle bracket arrangement I was going to do and also has provision to screw the seat pan to the brackets where the hole is cut for the strap, adding strength to the pan. Ed Holyoke 6QB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Dickson Subject: RV-List: crotch strap kit does anyone know if the crotch strap mounting kit that Van lists for the -7 & -9 will work on a -6A? If yes, is the kit for one seat or two? tia Robert Dickson RV-6A fwf = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Subject: Navaid Question
I'm asking this for a friend who is building a -7 QB. Does anyone know of a reason that the under the right seat floor location for a Navaid servo won't work in the RV -7. Seems someone told him that he would have to mount his in the wing. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Keeping Warm
Help, I'm freezing my you know what off. Casper and I were up playing last night and it was cold. At 6000 ft it was 28F and there was no sun, Yes, I know for you non Californians that's a nice day, but to us spoiled Californians it's cold. I'm getting a lot of air coming in from the tail cone, since I have a cover over the baggage compartment the air blasts between the seats and the armrests and you can really feel it. I've thought of gluing little triangles of compressible foam in all the folds in the baggage bulkhead, or putting a reverse NACA duct on the belly. Here is what I have so far as a base line; Aileron boots as per Sam B., All holes in the area covered by the wing to fuselage fairing are tight, Heat is supplied by two Robbins muffs ( one on each lower pipe, no scrubbies) in series with a 1 1/4 restrictor (to slow the air down), which dumps on each side by the rudder pedals. I have a indoor/outdoor house thermometer with the outdoor remote sender positioned to read the heater outlet temp. In cruise it gets up to over 145 F which is as high as the sensor goes. The firewall, floor and sides back to the seat back bulkhead are insulated using the old thick Vans firewall insulation. Anyway you guys flying in the real world, I sure could use some ideas. Garry " Casper" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Re: crotch strap kit
Robert, I spoke with Gus at Van's tech support and he thought that the 7/9 Crotch Strap kit could be adapted to the RV6. There is a difference in the floor rib spacing and floor rib height in the RV6 compared to the RV7/9. The 7/9 ribs are lower which is how they get more cockpit headroom and I think that Gus said the 7/9 floor ribs were spaced 1/8 inch wider than the 6. Gus thought it could be made to work by adding a doubler on each side. I ordered the 7/9 Crotch Strap kit but after some experimenting with the fit, decided that it would not work very well in my RV6QB and returned it to Vans. The crotch strap kit for the 5th point harness attach point was very well designed. The full size blue print for installation of the crotch strap kit was a real eye opener. The RV7 kits appear to be much better with regard to how much more prefabrication (rivet hole locations, cutouts etc.) is already done for you. @#&_&&( floors. I am going to copy what Randall Henderson implemented in his RV6. Randall has some photographs on his web site and there is another similar design on the "Bunny's Guide" to building a RV6 which looks reasonable to me. Paul Bessings web site shows a slightly different variation for a 5th point harness attach you might take a look at. Dave Robert Dickson wrote: > > does anyone know if the crotch strap mounting kit that Van lists for the -7 > & -9 will work on a -6A? If yes, is the kit for one seat or two? > > tia > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A fwf > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Bluemountain Avionics
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Has anyone had any actual experience with the Bluemountain Avionics system. I'm interested in their soon to be released small unit. John Furey RV6A O-360 Sterba 155 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Percent of power
Date: Nov 28, 2001
What were the numbers for RPM & MP to get 55% 65% 75% of power. Was it 42 45 48 or 44 46 48? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The tools I have and those I wish I had...
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Nov 28, 2001
11/28/2001 04:32:12 PM Over the years (almost 10) I spent building my -4, I accumulated quite a workshop. I thought I'd pass on to other builders my thoughts on my favorite tools. These of course are in addition to all "obvious" ones required for metal aircraft (e.g., compressor, rivet gun, etc.) Drill press - Mine is a bench top with a good speed range. I used it almost daily. Bench grinder - Get a good one an put a deburring wheel on one or both sides. This one is almost too obvious to include in this list. Dremel tool - I wore one out and had to replace it over the course of the project. I sincerely believe it would have been impossible (at least for me) to build an airplane without this handy tool. Belt sander - I love my Delta 1" belt sander. It cost very little and gets used all the time. At the beginning of the project, I bought a large (floor model) combination belt/disc sander. I never used it - total waste of money. Shear (18") - I found a used bench top shear for $100. People have offered me twice that to take it from me and I politely said no. It's been extremely useful, and I would recommend buying one to any builder - though they are hard to find. Perhaps the only sheet metal tool harder to find, but equally valuable, is an 18" brake. Luckily, I work at a facility with a sheet metal shop and have access to a small Di-Acro brake. If you can ever find one at a decent price - buy it. Bandsaw - To my disappointment, I was too cheap to buy one. I used the one at my work. Unfortunately, I wasted a lot of time either using a hacksaw in my basement, or travelling back and forth to work. Part of my reluctance in buying a bandsaw (besides the price) was that I could not find a bench-top unit with a good speed range. Before I build another plane I will definitely find and buy one. Mill/lathe - I had access to a mill and lathe at my work and used both frequently. Before I start another aircraft, I will buy a small mill - probably a Taig - as well as a lathe. Spindle Sander - I bought this one late in my project, but use it extensively to round/shape aluminum, fiberglass, etc. It definitely falls into the "luxury" category, but is very handy. Good luck, builders. It's definitely worth the work. Dean Pichon RV-4 Arlington, MA **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Keeping Warm
Date: Nov 28, 2001
You may try lowering the pressure in the cockpit to reduce the air coming from the tail cone. A simple way is to take one of the elevator push tube inspection covers and mount a standard Home Depot round louver vent. They come in different sizes. All it takes is a hole in the inspection cover and some JB weld or RTV. Point the louvers aft of course. The idea is this will create a slight suction on the tail cone. It's easier to stay warm by keeping the cold are out vice trying to pump more hot air in. This trick worked well in a flying RV-8. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (still working fiberglass) Vienna, VA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Keeping Warm > > Help, I'm freezing my you know what off. > Casper and I were up playing last night and it was cold. At 6000 ft it > was 28F and there was no sun, Yes, I know for you non Californians > that's a nice day, but to us spoiled Californians it's cold. I'm getting > a lot of air coming in from the tail cone, since I have a cover over the > baggage compartment the air blasts between the seats and the armrests > and you can really feel it. I've thought of gluing little triangles of > compressible foam in all the folds in the baggage bulkhead, or putting a > reverse NACA duct on the belly. > Here is what I have so far as a base line; > Aileron boots as per Sam B., All holes in the area covered by the wing > to fuselage fairing are tight, Heat is supplied by two Robbins muffs ( > one on each lower pipe, no scrubbies) in series with a 1 1/4 restrictor > (to slow the air down), which dumps on each side by the rudder pedals. I > have a indoor/outdoor house thermometer with the outdoor remote sender > positioned to read the heater outlet temp. In cruise it gets up to over > 145 F which is as high as the sensor goes. The firewall, floor and sides > back to the seat back bulkhead are insulated using the old thick Vans > firewall insulation. Anyway you guys flying in the real world, I sure > could use some ideas. > Garry " Casper" > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Bluemountain Avionics
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Sounds like you are referring to the EFIS/Lite model. If so, it will ship on or before 2/1/02 and is $2,880. I am looking at it also. The info on their web site is incomplete. In fact it does have an OAT function which enables it to display real time TAS. The magnometer, which will let it display heading, will not be available for several months after the unit first ships. It mounts in a standard 3.125" hole and the bezel will be 4.0" x 4.5". Randy Lervold RV-8, N558RL, 140 hrs. www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> Subject: RV-List: Bluemountain Avionics > > Has anyone had any actual experience with the Bluemountain Avionics > system. I'm interested in their soon to be released small unit. > > John Furey > RV6A O-360 Sterba 155 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com>
Subject: New RV-7A
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Folks, I just had the pleasure this evening of unpacking the empennage kit for my new RV-7A. All I can say is wow, have Van's kits come a long way since I built my RV-6. The amount of labor saving work already done on the empennage is amazing. Sure beats the old way of hacking each part out of a sheet of aluminum. Anyone building from the new, pre-punched, plastic covered, powder coated, trimmed, drilled, snap it together and fly it kits probably can't appeciate just how much easier these are than the old kits. I won't say "Back in the old days of RV building before CNC milling and drilling machines and such, we had to mine our own aluminum oxide....." but the old kits were a bunch more work. I think Van's is to be commended for continually updating the kits, plans, drawings, etc. Sure, there are still some nagging problems like when the instructions and the plans don't jibe, but all in all, his kits are good.....real good. I'm going back out in the shop to pound a few rivets in my new toy tonight. This is so much fun. Randy Pflanzer N2517C - Long-EZ - Sold N417G - RV-6 - Sold N524RP - RV-7A - Just Started ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Percent of power
42 45 48 Dave John Furey wrote: > > What were the numbers for RPM & MP to get 55% 65% 75% of power. Was it > 42 45 48 or 44 46 48? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Keeping Warm
Date: Nov 28, 2001
> Help, I'm freezing my you know what off. >Heat is supplied by two Robbins muffs > one on each lower pipe, no scrubbies) in series with a 1 1/4 restrictor > (to slow the air down), which dumps on each side by the rudder pedals. I > have a indoor/outdoor house thermometer with the outdoor remote sender > positioned to read the heater outlet temp. In cruise it gets up to over > 145 F which is as high as the sensor goes. The firewall, floor and sides > back to the seat back bulkhead are insulated using the old thick Vans > firewall insulation. Anyway you guys flying in the real world, I sure > could use some ideas. > Garry " Casper" > Garry, I'm not an expert yet, but wait until after this Minnesota winter and I will be. The coldest I've seen so far is 22F, and my plane heated very well. I have two Robbins muffs on my 6A, not in series. Air supply is pulled from behind #3 cylinder, and is supplied to the aft ends of the muff (this is counterflow - optimum for heat transfer), then to the heater thingys on the firewall. I believe it is important to have a high volume of warm air coming into the cabin, to stop all the cold air from flowing in. I have aileron boots, insulation but no other air leak blocks. I will certainly add some additional things, particularly covering the 604 bulkheads with some sort of cloth, since it touches my left leg, and is cold. A little cold air comes up through the stick boots, but not much I can do there. Although air generally leaks out of the slider canopy sides, there still seems to be a little swirl of cold air there, so some sort of seal is in order there, also. With the heaters on full bore, I can't feel any air coming through the triangles in the aft bulkhead. I built the engine baffle heater supplies with little throttles that are ground adjustable, and they are almost entirely closed, experimentation is in order with this. Good luck, let us know what you find. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 52 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
Subject: pistons
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Hi list, I am building an 8, working on the wings, and beginning to check out engines. I have contacted Bart and Sue at Aero Sport Power. They seem like great people who are very patient and willing to answer any and all my questions. I have decided to go with their new I0-360 B1B with airflow performance FI with lightspeed EI. Their price is excellent for a new engine from the checking around I've done. The weight of the engine is 299 lbs. The question is can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of considering the 9.2:1 compression pistons vs the regular pistons? I also have thought about them holding back the alternator and going with a B&C alternator, any comments? Their chrome kit is reasonable in cost compared to the lycoming kit, pros and cons please? I have read nothing but good reports from people on this list who have dealt with Sue and Bart and am excited about this, that much closer to being done. Also just want to say how impressed I am with the eight kit, the wing is absolutely fantastic. Everything just FITS so nicely. I have ordered the QB fuse and am anxiously awaiting its arrival (est March or April, ordered several months ago). Already planning on a 7 after I get this one done! This is a BLAST! Thanks for any and all comments Jim Tambs RV8 wings Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Subject: Re: pistons
In a message dated 11/28/01 8:20:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, jntambs(at)voyager.net writes: << Hi list, I am building an 8, working on the wings, and beginning to check out engines. I have contacted Bart and Sue at Aero Sport Power. They seem like great people who are very patient and willing to answer any and all my questions. I have decided to go with their new I0-360 B1B with airflow performance FI with lightspeed EI. Their price is excellent for a new engine from the checking around I've done. The weight of the engine is 299 lbs. The question is can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of considering the 9.2:1 compression pistons vs the regular pistons? I also have thought about them holding back the alternator and going with a B&C alternator, any comments? Their chrome kit is reasonable in cost compared to the lycoming kit, pros and cons please? I have read nothing but good reports from people on this list who have dealt with Sue and Bart and am excited about this, that much closer to being done. Also just want to say how impressed I am with the eight kit, the wing is absolutely fantastic. Everything just FITS so nicely. I have ordered the QB fuse and am anxiously awaiting its arrival (est March or April, ordered several months ago). Already planning on a 7 after I get this one done! This is a BLAST! Thanks for any and all comments Jim Tambs RV8 wings Michigan >> Powersport has a good reputation, so my first impression is to go with what they recommend for your mission. I have standard 8.5:1 pistons on my 0-320, so I can't comment on the 9:2 pistons. I do worry (even at 8.5:1 what is gonna happen when/if 100 LL goes away). I can give a good recommendation on the B&C alternator. All my buddies who bought automotive alternators tell me that they wish they had purchased the B&C unit, and will do just that if their automotive unit fails. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: pistons
> The question is can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of > considering the 9.2:1 compression pistons vs the regular pistons? Pros: Obviously - more power. Cons: Decreased TBO for one. Also I passed on high compression pistons when Bart built my O-360 because of the eventual avgas situation. I don't fancy putting a can of octane booster into the tanks on every fill-up because the fuel replacement has an octane rating in the double digits. :( So, my standard-compression O-360 can run mosgas if necessary. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Firewall Forward http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: pistons
--- jim wrote: > > Hi list, > > I am building an 8, working on the wings, and beginning to check out > engines. I have contacted Bart and Sue at Aero Sport Power. They > seem > like great people who are very patient and willing to answer any and > all > my questions. I have decided to go with their new I0-360 B1B with > airflow performance FI with lightspeed EI. Their price is excellent > for > a new engine from the checking around I've done. The weight of the > engine is 299 lbs. > > The question is can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of > considering the 9.2:1 compression pistons vs the regular pistons? I > also have thought about them holding back the alternator and going > with > a B&C alternator, any comments? Their chrome kit is reasonable in > cost > compared to the lycoming kit, pros and cons please? I have read > nothing > but good reports from people on this list who have dealt with Sue and > Bart and am excited about this, that much closer to being done. > > Also just want to say how impressed I am with the eight kit, the wing > is > absolutely fantastic. Everything just FITS so nicely. I have ordered > the QB fuse and am anxiously awaiting its arrival (est March or > April, > ordered several months ago). Already planning on a 7 after I get > this > one done! This is a BLAST! > Thanks for any and all comments > > Jim Tambs > RV8 wings > Michigan > Jim: I would go with 10:1 pistons. There are several I(O)-360 (parallel valve, 180 HP) RV-s flying with the 10:1s in SoCAL. All that have them swear by them. http://www.lycon.com/nfs.htm Lycoming certified the O-320 that I have to run on 93 octane and 8.5:1. Many autos are running around with compression over 9:1. The B & C alternator is the way to go. There is no better alternator on the market at any price. If you are planning on having a BEAUTIFUL engine installation that is the best around, go for the chrome. If you want something to show, go for the chrome. If you do not care what your engine looks like, DO NOT buy the chrome. I would purchase the Lasar ignition system. I know of 3 people that have had Lightspeed and have had problems. One RV even removed his after his engine self-destructed and he had a large repair bill to overhaul it. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Percent of power
> >What were the numbers for RPM & MP to get 55% 65% 75% of power. Was it >42 45 48 or 44 46 48? > It depends on what altitude you are at. For the same rpm and MP, the engine will make more power at higher altitudes. You can see this if you run a couple of cases on the Lycoming power chart (if you can actually find a readable one, that is). I think the reason for more power at altitude for the same MP is lower exhaust back pressure, and lower pressure in the crank case. But I'm just guessing about the reason. If you're running an O-360-A or C series, there are several power charts on the web, including a spreadsheet that I created. See the Engine & Propeller section of my RV Links page: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "D. Winters" <winters.d(at)home.net>
Subject: Wingtip Attach
Date: Nov 28, 2001
I can't recall the technical name, but there are "flathead allen screws". They have a countersunk head, too. If you need a flat head in thick materials, use a socket-head cap screw in a counterbored hole. Don -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke Subject: RE: RV-List: Wingtip Attach [edited by dwinters] As for tank mounting, although I haven't located any, it seems that somebody should make flathead allen screws. Has anybody seen any? Ed Holyoke 6QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 28, 2001
Subject: Re: pistons
On 28 Nov 2001, at 20:20, jim wrote: > I have decided to go with their new I0-360 B1B > with airflow performance FI with lightspeed EI. I have the Lightspeed, and like it. > The question is can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of > considering the 9.2:1 compression pistons vs the regular pistons? I'd stick with the stock compression pistons to be sure you can use auto gas with no detonation problems. Higher compression pistons *might* be OK, but detonation can be hard to detect, so I would not be willing to try that particular experiment on my airplane. For more on autogas use see http://www.webworksltd.com/WebPub/PetersenAviation/PetersenAvi ation.html Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Percent of power
--- John Furey wrote: > > What were the numbers for RPM & MP to get 55% 65% 75% of power. Was > it > 42 45 48 or 44 46 48? > > 24 square = 48 = 75% 3 = 10% 45 = 65 42 = 55 That is what I use as a rule of thumb. It may not be exact but is close enough for fun. On my 320, I typically run 23 square cruise or 2300 and whatever full throttle gives me below 23. (160 KTAS, 7 GPH) Yes when I am with a 180 HP RV, I am turning 2500 or 2600 and burning 1 GPH more fuel to go the same speed. Flying formation or Young Eagles, I will use 2100 and 22 inches. (6 GPH, 135-140 KTAS) I always flight plan 150 KTAS. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Keeping Warm
Alex Peterson wrote: > Garry, I'm not an expert yet, but wait until after this Minnesota winter and > I will be. The coldest I've seen so far is 22F, and my plane heated very > well. I have two Robbins muffs on my 6A, not in series. Air supply is > pulled from behind #3 cylinder, and is supplied to the aft ends of the muff > (this is counterflow - optimum for heat transfer), Whoa! Counterflow? Tell us more. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, always looking for a little more heat) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Keeping Warm
Date: Nov 28, 2001
> > > Alex Peterson wrote: > > > Garry, I'm not an expert yet, but wait until after this Minnesota winter and > > I will be. The coldest I've seen so far is 22F, and my plane heated very > > well. I have two Robbins muffs on my 6A, not in series. Air supply is > > pulled from behind #3 cylinder, and is supplied to the aft ends of the muff > > (this is counterflow - optimum for heat transfer), > > > Whoa! Counterflow? Tell us more. Sorry, I should have explained. Counterflow simply means that the exhaust is going one way, the cabin heat air is going opposite. In our planes, the exhaust goes aft, so the cold air goes into the muff at the aft end, hot air out the front of the muff. I can't tell you how much this matters, only that it will be warmer air supplied than if it is opposite. Maybe .1 degree, maybe 20 warmer. This set up in a heat exchanger maximizes the average temperature differential between the two gasses, which maximizes total heat transfer. Unless it is quite difficult to do this, our heater(s) should be set up this way. It would be interesting to instrument one of our heaters, to see how much difference this actually makes, I suspect not too much. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 52 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 2001
Subject: Lightspeed Ignition, was pistons
In a message dated 11/28/01 9:42:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes: << I would purchase the Lasar ignition system. I know of 3 people that have had Lightspeed and have had problems. One RV even removed his after his engine self-destructed and he had a large repair bill to overhaul it. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com >> Gary, I'm running the Rose ignition, and was wondering how your friend traced his engine self destruction to the Lightspeed unit? With either ignition, the only failure scenarios I see are A) Mis-timing the ignition on installation; B) The ignition failing in a mode that would advance the ignition too far; or C) The ignition having timing curves that were simply too aggressive "out of the box". Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
"Graham Murphy" , "Moore, Leroy" , "GEORGE MCILREATH" , "RICK MCBRIDE" , "LOGAN" , "RV list" , , , "Tom & Marilyn Law" , "Finn Lassen" , "L.Coats" , "Charlie Kuss" , "lothar klingmuller" , "Bernie Kerr" , "Rob Kermanj" , , , "Joel"
Date: Nov 29, 2001
----- Original Message -----
From: Bernie Kerr
; cjdaron(at)aol.com ; Arthur and Christine ; Jerry Carter ; Peter and Noeline Carpenter ; Carl ; jan bussell ; Sam Buchanan ; Brumwellb(at)aol.com ; Steve Alan Bowman ; Bourgeouis, Gene ; Warren Bishop ; Paul Besing ; Dave Berryhill ; Dr. Bernard B. Beard ; NORM BARTLETT ; Beagle Aviation ; ABAYMAN(at)aol.com Do not open any attachments that may have been sent from me today or near future. bernie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2001
From: Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu>
Subject: Re: Keeping Warm
i taught an engineering lab at my school once and we studied parallel flow vs. counter flow in heat exchangers. we ran ordinary hot and cold tap water through a heat exchanger (40 degrees F cold and 180 degrees F hot). i seem to recall that the outflow temperature of both the hot and cold was between 5 and 10 degrees different, depending on the flow configuration. it was definitely noticeable. i went through the math of why that was one time, and what i found for that particular heat exchanger was that the average temperature difference over the length of the interface was higher. in the case of parallel flow, the temperature of the hot decreases as you go along the exchanger, while the temperature of the cold increases. the two converge. in counter flow, the temperature curves (with respect to position along the heat exchanger) remain closer to parallel, which maintains a more constant pressure differential across the interface. that gives the exchanger more time and more "force" by which to transfer heat. i'm not sure how much it makes a difference in the short section of an airplane heater muff, but i bet it's noticeable. physically it's definitely a more effective configuration (probably with exceptions). brian armstrong boulder, co -- > > Whoa! Counterflow? Tell us more. > > Sorry, I should have explained. Counterflow simply means that the exhaust > is going one way, the cabin heat air is going opposite. In our planes, the > exhaust goes aft, so the cold air goes into the muff at the aft end, hot air > out the front of the muff. I can't tell you how much this matters, only > that it will be warmer air supplied than if it is opposite. Maybe .1 > degree, maybe 20 warmer. This set up in a heat exchanger maximizes the > average temperature differential between the two gasses, which maximizes > total heat transfer. Unless it is quite difficult to do this, our heater(s) > should be set up this way. It would be interesting to instrument one of our > heaters, to see how much difference this actually makes, I suspect not too > much. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > 6A N66AP flying 52 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: pistons
Date: Nov 29, 2001
I would purchase the Lasar ignition system. I know of 3 people that have had Lightspeed and have had problems. One RV even removed his after his engine self-destructed and he had a large repair bill to


November 20, 2001 - November 29, 2001

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