RV-Archive.digest.vol-ly
November 29, 2001 - December 08, 2001
overhaul it.
Gary,
I would like to hear more about problems with the Lightspeed. I have
installed one on my engine but will not fly until January or February. I
have not previously
heard of problems with the Lightspeed or Rose systems.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, final assembly
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/29/2001 08:02:08 AM
the 9:1 pistons will put you in the 185-190HP range. If you were
considering auto gas as a 100LL alternative you'll need to retard your mags
3* to avoid detonation. Lycoming says you'll void your warranty by
running auto gas unless you have an STC. Since you're running it in an RV,
it'll be your call.
________________________________________________________________________________
GARY-Who are the three people that removed the units I would love to buy
them-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/29/2001 08:16:45 AM
t
________________________________________________________________________________
bob
where can i get an extension oil dip stick tube and extended dip stick for my
0360a1a narrowdeck? do you guys have them? how much?
scott'
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Rectangular Wing Form |
On Thu, 29 Nov 2001 Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Gotta admit, I'd pay $50 to lean on the counter at SNF and watch you try to
> convince Van to change his wing. I can imagine the look on his face, just
> the thought of it makes my side hurt from laughing.
From the little exposure I have had to the Van's way of doing things I
have come to appreciate the extent Van goes to to keep costs down while
providing truly excellent products. My RV-7 was designed with a pick
sheet. He just went down the isle of the warehouse:
1 RV-8 wing
1 RV6 horiz. Stab, OK punch the skin out of thicker aluminum
1 RV-8 vert. stab
1 RV-9 fuselage
THe resulting mix is one great little airplane but very little additional
work was done to each sub kit. The skin stiffeners on the rudder are as
they were tooled for the -8, i.e. matched hole with the skins. On the
elevators they are as tooled for the -6, i.e. you have to fabricate and
drill the holes in both the skin and stiffeners. The H.S. ribs don't have
the rived holes punched to match the skin, becausebut the wing is match hole punched
because the -8 has it. In most all
cases the plans are the same sheets from the original kits.
THis isn't to criticize but to compliment. If everything were updated the
kit would have cost more and the -10 would take longer to get to market.
Just don't expect a part that is already tooled to be changed. It would
add cost and that goes against Van's nature - it "ain't gonna happen."
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - HS finished, VS in the jig,
wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
11/29/2001 10:19:48 AM
first we'll need to determine which one you have on the engine now.
Lycoming makes 3 different dipsticks for the O360A1A. I have all the
information here at my desk. If you'd like, you can call or I can fax it to
you. MY # is 800-420-4727 xt 2663.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Armstrong <armstrbc(at)ucsub.colorado.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
whoops. that's temperature differential, not pressure. (sigh)
brian
boulder, co
--
i wrote:
> in counter flow, the temperature curves (with respect to position along
> the heat exchanger) remain closer to parallel, which maintains a more
> constant pressure differential across the interface. that gives the
> exchanger more time and more "force" by ...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bluemountain Avionics |
John,
I don't know if you would call it experience, but I was in Atlanta last week
and drove up to Copperhill to see the unit and meet the developer. I spent 2
hours talking with him and getting a demo of the one in his plane. I was
impressed with both the unit and designer and his plans for production
increases. He was waiting for a rep from Sharp for a better, cheaper display
while I was there. We spent some time talking about the upcoming autopilot
system. A lot more cost effective than S-Tec or anyone else.
I was very impressed and plan to buy both a large and "lite" for my RV8A. I
am building an all electric version and this is the best I have seen yet.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bluemountain Avionics
>
> Has anyone had any actual experience with the Bluemountain Avionics
> system. I'm interested in their soon to be released small unit.
>
> John Furey
> RV6A O-360 Sterba 155 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bluemountain Avionics |
I called them after Sun N Fun and talked with him at some length. He told
me that when I am ready he would send a tech rep to Lubbock and help me
install it for expenses. Now that is service. I asked him how long the offer
was good for and he said "Well, when you are ready to install it, call and
we would see". told him it would be a couple of years as Im planning on
putting one in the RV10. But some of the best laid plans..... You know.
Put the calculator to it and let me know what you come up with. With
everything it has. It might be a good value . Terry E. Cole flying, 318 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Sam your 6 is almost identical (except for the engine) to Casper right down to
the
Jantzi steering link (which is great). Is your canopy sealed. Mine isn't sealed
but is a very tight fit because the framework and skirts are all carbon/epoxy
(just the hinges are aluminum). There is air coming forward from the tail and in
the vents or heater. Where is it getting out? Any ideas?
Garry "Casper"
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> > Garry, I'm not an expert yet, but wait until after this Minnesota winter and
> > I will be. The coldest I've seen so far is 22F, and my plane heated very
> > well. I have two Robbins muffs on my 6A, not in series. Air supply is
> > pulled from behind #3 cylinder, and is supplied to the aft ends of the muff
> > (this is counterflow - optimum for heat transfer),
>
>
> Whoa! Counterflow? Tell us more.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, always looking for a little more heat)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bluemountain Avionics |
I'm planning on the EFIS/1 too. My only reservation is the GPS part of it.
I've gotten really comfortable with my Garmin 295 and all that it can do. The
EFIS/1 doesn't seem as strong in that area, from what I saw at OSH. IE,
storing routes, multiple waypoints, etc. I guess improvements are in the
works, but....
-Larry
--- Bill Christie wrote:
>
> John,
> I don't know if you would call it experience, but I was in Atlanta last week
> and drove up to Copperhill to see the unit and meet the developer. I spent 2
> hours talking with him and getting a demo of the one in his plane. I was
> impressed with both the unit and designer and his plans for production
> increases. He was waiting for a rep from Sharp for a better, cheaper display
> while I was there. We spent some time talking about the upcoming autopilot
> system. A lot more cost effective than S-Tec or anyone else.
>
> I was very impressed and plan to buy both a large and "lite" for my RV8A. I
> am building an all electric version and this is the best I have seen yet.
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Bluemountain Avionics
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone had any actual experience with the Bluemountain Avionics
> > system. I'm interested in their soon to be released small unit.
> >
> > John Furey
> > RV6A O-360 Sterba 155 hrs
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Hi list,
I have to second Bernies advice. Last pm I posted to the list re pistons.
Shortly thereafter I received an email from a person on the list whom I
know. The email was addressed directly to me, not through the list, when I
opened the email there was no message but there was an attachment. I
(foolishly as it turns out) opened the attachment as I know this person and
felt safe. In about 5 minutes I began receiving multiple emails that the
emails I had sent regarding all kinds of topics to many different people
were infected with the W32 BADTRANS.B worm. I went offline immediately and
could contact no one as symantec was closed already. I contacted Symantec
checked and indicated the worm accesses your address book and spreads to
those in your book, also he said it leaves a trojan horse behind which keeps
track of your keystrokes so advised not to enter passwords or account nos.
etc.
I checked with Norton but was talking to sales so I'm not sure about the
trojan horse.
Interestingly this am after updating I received multiple notifications of
DO NOT OPEN ATTACHMENTS
Sorry for unwittingly being part of this, geesh I feel like I have an STD,
need to go wash now!
By the way thanks for allthe responses regarding my questions under the
subject of pistons
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
; "Moore, Leroy" ; "GEORGE
MCILREATH" ; "RICK MCBRIDE" ; "LOGAN"
; "RV list" ; ;
; "Tom & Marilyn Law" ; "Finn Lassen"
; "L.Coats" ; "Charlie Kuss"
; "lothar klingmuller" ;
"Bernie Kerr" ; "Rob Kermanj"
; ; ;
"Joel"
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bernie Kerr
> To: Will Cretsinger ; confirm-do-66123-kerrjbmsn.com(at)yahoogroups.com
> ; cjdaron(at)aol.com ; Arthur and Christine ; Jerry Carter ; Peter and
> Noeline Carpenter ; Carl ; jan bussell ; Sam Buchanan ;
> Brumwellb(at)aol.com ; Steve Alan Bowman ; Bourgeouis, Gene
> ; Warren Bishop ; Paul Besing ; Dave Berryhill ; Dr. Bernard B. Beard ;
> NORM BARTLETT ; Beagle Aviation ; ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>
>
> Do not open any attachments that may have been sent from me today or
> near future.
>
> bernie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Contributors Down By 25%... |
Dear Listers,
First I want to thank everyone that has already so generously made a
Contribution toward this year 2001 List Fund Raiser. It is your support
that makes these Lists possible.
Since there are only a couple more days until the official end of this
year's drive, I want to share some statistics regarding this and previous
Fund Raiser percentages. In years past, the percentage of members making a
Contribution to support the Lists has typically been right around 23% of
the total List population. This year, however, you'll note from the
Contribution Meter that we're only at a little over 16% for some
reason. This is down by roughly 7%, and translates into about a *30%
decrease* in participation this year!
I'm hoping that everyone is just waiting until the very last minute to make
their Contribution this year, and that the needle on the Contribution Meter
will still creep up to the normal 23% in the next few days! Saturday or
Sunday I will be posting the 2001 List of Contributors, so you'll want to
heat up that Contribution Web Site right away to make sure your name is on
the 2001 LOC!!
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Regarding buying an engine from Bart at AeroSport Power...
Mine is not flying, but the experience dealing with them could not be
better.
Also... I want to remind everybody who is going this route, they will paint
the engine ANY color you want for zero extra cost... They just require a PPG
paint code number and consider it done. I had mine painted a nice blue
color to match the trim colors on the outside of the plane. If you do not
tell them what color to paint it, they will paint it the standard (ugly?)
Lycoming gray.
Jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Engineering EI was pistons |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Harrill" <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: pistons
>
>
> I would purchase the Lasar ignition system. I know of 3 people that
> have had Lightspeed and have had problems. One RV even removed his
> after his engine self-destructed and he had a large repair bill to
> overhaul it.
>
>
> Gary,
>
> I would like to hear more about problems with the Lightspeed. I have
> installed one on my engine but will not fly until January or February. I
> have not previously
> heard of problems with the Lightspeed or Rose systems.
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, final assembly
> Columbia, SC
I have dual Lightspeed Engineering Electronic Ignition systems on my RV6A
Lycoming O-320 and love them. Have never had a bit of trouble, and
installation was a no-brain operation. Can't say how much I like putting in
$2.50 racing spark plugs instead of the $15-$17 "aircraft" plugs.
I f you have a problem I suspect it was an installation error...but even
that seems remote because of the simplicity of the work. I really doubt any
ignition problem with Lightspeed's units caused the engine trouble these
folks reported.
Contact me if you wish further discussion on my Lightspeed Experiences.
John at Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Jim,
The info I received from Sue indicated they do charge for the paint now,
$50.00 per color.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: AeroSport Power (Was: RV-List: pistons)
>
> Regarding buying an engine from Bart at AeroSport Power...
> Mine is not flying, but the experience dealing with them could not be
> better.
>
> Also... I want to remind everybody who is going this route, they will
paint
> the engine ANY color you want for zero extra cost... They just require a
PPG
> paint code number and consider it done. I had mine painted a nice blue
> color to match the trim colors on the outside of the plane. If you do not
> tell them what color to paint it, they will paint it the standard (ugly?)
> Lycoming gray.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV:list Avery C frame riviter for sale |
New as in not used Avery C frame riviter for sale. I have sold my F1 kit and
am going to keep my other tools for when i can build another aircraft, but i
dont need this huge tool sitting around tell i get back to it.
Avery price 145.00 plus shipping.
I will sell for 135 including shipping.
thanks
chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Contributors Down By 25%... |
Only 16% of list users contribute !!!!! come on guys, we can do better than
that. I know I get more value on weekly basis from the list than I contribute
in a year!
Money is tight for me too, just placed an order at Aerosport, but would feel
embarrassed to make use of this valuable resource for nothing!!
Thanks Matte for hosting, maintaining and upgrading of the list
Dave Burnham
Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Cables throtle mixture |
Help:
Since the people at Van's, do not give me the
honor of taken my money...after $21,000 though,
I need the throtle and Mixture cables for my
rv6A-
I read somewhere there is a company ACS (not
Aircraft Srpuce) I believe is in Arizona.
Any one has the address, and or Fax, Telephone
number? I look thru the list I have, but did not
see such co.
Thanks in advance,
Bert
Instrument panel
rv6a P.S> please do not forget
this is the month to send your contri-
bution to Mattg Dralle.
I did my part...
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
Norton live update took care of it for me... I was dumb enough to open it as
well.
When I did open it, and noticed nothing there (and the icon disappeared) I
got very suspicious, ran a scan, it didn't catch it, ran live update,
scanned again, and it got it.
Good luck
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re:
Hi list,
I have to second Bernies advice. Last pm I posted to the list re pistons.
Shortly thereafter I received an email from a person on the list whom I
know. The email was addressed directly to me, not through the list, when I
opened the email there was no message but there was an attachment. I
(foolishly as it turns out) opened the attachment as I know this person and
felt safe. In about 5 minutes I began receiving multiple emails that the
emails I had sent regarding all kinds of topics to many different people
were infected with the W32 BADTRANS.B worm. I went offline immediately and
could contact no one as symantec was closed already. I contacted Symantec
checked and indicated the worm accesses your address book and spreads to
those in your book, also he said it leaves a trojan horse behind which keeps
track of your keystrokes so advised not to enter passwords or account nos.
etc.
I checked with Norton but was talking to sales so I'm not sure about the
trojan horse.
Interestingly this am after updating I received multiple notifications of
DO NOT OPEN ATTACHMENTS
Sorry for unwittingly being part of this, geesh I feel like I have an STD,
need to go wash now!
By the way thanks for allthe responses regarding my questions under the
subject of pistons
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
; "Moore, Leroy" ; "GEORGE
MCILREATH" ; "RICK MCBRIDE" ; "LOGAN"
; "RV list" ; ;
; "Tom & Marilyn Law" ; "Finn Lassen"
; "L.Coats" ; "Charlie Kuss"
; "lothar klingmuller" ;
"Bernie Kerr" ; "Rob Kermanj"
; ; ;
"Joel"
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bernie Kerr
> To: Will Cretsinger ; confirm-do-66123-kerrjbmsn.com(at)yahoogroups.com
> ; cjdaron(at)aol.com ; Arthur and Christine ; Jerry Carter ; Peter and
> Noeline Carpenter ; Carl ; jan bussell ; Sam Buchanan ;
> Brumwellb(at)aol.com ; Steve Alan Bowman ; Bourgeouis, Gene
> ; Warren Bishop ; Paul Besing ; Dave Berryhill ; Dr. Bernard B. Beard ;
> NORM BARTLETT ; Beagle Aviation ; ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>
>
> Do not open any attachments that may have been sent from me today or
> near future.
>
> bernie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
I know this is off topic, but it does have to do with my Experimental
Panel Builder -> http://www.sonexlinks.com/panelbuilder/index.htm
I am looking for a XML expert... If you can help me, please contact me
off list...
bill(at)vondane.com
719-540-1997
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Subject: | Cables throtle mixture |
ACS PRODUCTS
1565 COPPER DRIVE
LAKE HAVASU, AZ 86405-0152
Phone--520-855-8613
Fax--520-855-2104
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cables throtle mixture |
From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
ACS Products, Lake Havasu City, AZ, (928) 855-8613
I just ordered a special length vernier throttle cable from them yesterday,
said they'd ship it next week COD (they don't take plastic)
btw, Van's mixture cable fit perfectly for me using an 0-360 an their carb
bracket and a sub-panel. I think Van's push-pull throttle length would also
probably be ok, but I wanted vernier.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A fwf
----------
>From: bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Cables throtle mixture
>Date: Thu, Nov 29, 2001, 2:24 PM
>
>
> Help:
>
> Since the people at Van's, do not give me the
> honor of taken my money...after $21,000 though,
> I need the throtle and Mixture cables for my
> rv6A-
> I read somewhere there is a company ACS (not
> Aircraft Srpuce) I believe is in Arizona.
>
> Any one has the address, and or Fax, Telephone
> number? I look thru the list I have, but did not
> see such co.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Bert
> Instrument panel
> rv6a P.S> please do not forget
> this is the month to send your contri-
> bution to Mattg Dralle.
> I did my part...
>
>
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cables throtle mixture |
In a message dated 11/29/2001 11:26:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> I read somewhere there is a company ACS (not
> Aircraft Srpuce) I believe is in Arizona.
>
> Any one has the address, and or Fax, Telephone
> number? I look thru the list I have, but did not
> see such co.
>
>
ACS is a division of Aircraft Spruce that is located in Lake Havasu
City, Arizona They make control cables, standard and custom length. You
will have to order from Aircraft Spruce.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
>
> Sam your 6 is almost identical (except for the engine) to Casper right down to
the
> Jantzi steering link (which is great). Is your canopy sealed. Mine isn't sealed
> but is a very tight fit because the framework and skirts are all carbon/epoxy
> (just the hinges are aluminum). There is air coming forward from the tail and
in
> the vents or heater. Where is it getting out? Any ideas?
> Garry "Casper"
Garry, I ran weatherseal (the stuff included in the kit) all the way
around the canopy (tip-up) and it fits very nicely with a satisfying,
air-cushioned "whump" as it closes. I feel no leaks around the canopy
but I do get a cold left elbow when the temps drop into the 30's. I
thought the cold air was coming in around the flap pushrod, but you have
me thinking that the tailcone may be the culprit.
The only way I can figure that air is getting out the cabin is around
the canopy, you know, the one I have weather sealed real good! :-)
Since we are bound to have some cold weather *sometime* this winter, I
may experiment with trying to seal the baggage bulkhead a little better,
though at this moment, I can't think of a good way to seal the
corrugated cover.
Seems what I need in the cabin is some counterflow......... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Navaid Question |
Harry, we have mounted ours under the right seat just aft of the wing spar.
We have not flown yet but we have tested the Naiaid and it operates the right
alieron just as it should.(we fooled the Naviad by turning it with our hand)
We are building a 6A but the 7 is almost the same.
Rod and Rollie
Ready to go the Airport!
N799RQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Re: Contributors Down By 25%... |
Matt -
Is the total amount contributed down also?
If so we will "hit you again."
Karen
> This is down by roughly 7%, and translates into about a *30%
>decrease* in participation this year!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Listers,
Those of you who have quite a few hours in flying with the S
cowl, how have you found the attachment behind the spinner to hold up ?
With the old poly cowl...heavier by 7 pounds..that area would snap the
eyes on the hinge placed there.
Beefing up became the norm.
I have to beef up the same area on my S cowl because I had to sand it so
much to get a good "nesting".
I plan to use screws there..is that good enough ?
Last cowl I had, I put in 3 AN3 bolts in that area....I don't think that is
needed this time...
What have you found so far ?
Gratefully,
Austin...not Texas....Upper wet coast.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Does anyone have pictures of their 'vent' or reverse naca ?
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Any one out there with a 'water cooled' (read alternative auto power)
heater set up for the cabin? Pictures maybe?
Barry Pote Rv9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/29/01 8:44:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
<< Listers,
Those of you who have quite a few hours in flying with the S
cowl, how have you found the attachment behind the spinner to hold up ?
With the old poly cowl...heavier by 7 pounds..that area would snap the
eyes on the hinge placed there.
Beefing up became the norm.
I have to beef up the same area on my S cowl because I had to sand it so
much to get a good "nesting".
I plan to use screws there..is that good enough ?
Last cowl I had, I put in 3 AN3 bolts in that area....I don't think that is
needed this time...
What have you found so far ?
Gratefully,
Austin...not Texas....Upper wet coast..... >>
Austin,
I've got 110 hours on my type S, with no problems. One thing I did on my
cowl was run 2 narrow layers of carbon fiber cloth, covered by one layer of
thin fiberglass cloth around all of the edges of my cowl - top and bottom
edges of the lateral split, along the firewall attach area, and in the area
behind the spinner. My cowl is very stiff, and has experienced absolutely no
problems. I have three screws on one side of the cowl behind the spinner,
and only two on the other side (the third one was uncomfortably close to the
ring gear).
The primary reasons I added the carbon fiber were because I thought the cowl
was a bit thin to countersink anyway, and I also thought the carbon fiber
would add stiffness to the assembly. Not a whole lot of extra work. On the
other hand, there is absolutely no way to tell if it was really necessary.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/29/01 9:11:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< I've got 110 hours on my type S, with no problems. One thing I did on my
cowl was run 2 narrow layers of carbon fiber cloth, covered by one layer of
thin fiberglass cloth around all of the edges of my cowl - top and bottom
edges of the lateral split, along the firewall attach area, and in the area
behind the spinner. >>
I forgot to note that these additional cloth layers are on the inside the
cowl.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Engineering EI was pistons |
> > Gary,
> >
> > I would like to hear more about problems with the Lightspeed. I have
> > installed one on my engine but will not fly until January or February.
>I
> > have not previously
> > heard of problems with the Lightspeed or Rose systems.
> >
> > Ken Harrill
> > RV-6, final assembly
> > Columbia, SC
>
>
>I have dual Lightspeed Engineering Electronic Ignition systems on my RV6A
>Lycoming O-320 and love them. Have never had a bit of trouble, and
>installation was a no-brain operation. Can't say how much I like putting in
>$2.50 racing spark plugs instead of the $15-$17 "aircraft" plugs.
>
>I f you have a problem I suspect it was an installation error...but even
>that seems remote because of the simplicity of the work. I really doubt any
>ignition problem with Lightspeed's units caused the engine trouble these
>folks reported.
>
>Contact me if you wish further discussion on my Lightspeed Experiences.
>
>John at Salida, CO
Same here. I've had a Lightspeed on the right side for almost a year now
and am totally tickled with it. Not a lick of trouble since day one. My
next RV (the -10) will have Lightspeed on both sides.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
269 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Well this is it!!!!! |
Well we are almost at the end of the fund raiser. I personally would
like to apologize to Matt for letting him down and not posting more about
the fundraiser. To be honest I guess it just became more trouble than it
was worth (to me) to hear all the griping I got last year. After a while
it just gets to you and you figure........."What the h... maybe these guys
are right."
I was hoping that I would be proven wrong and that my prodding and
pleading really wasn't needed to keep contributions up. I figured that
this was a bunch of RV guys and as we all know, we can count on RV guys to
do the right thing. Well today is the last day and I really hope that is
true.
Matt, sorry I let you down. I hope a LOT of folks come through for
you this year on the last day. I know it's just a few who carry the
load, but I was hoping that this year would be different. I'm really
looking forward to seeing the "List of Contributors" (LOC). AL
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "hal merritt" <merritthal(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer |
Is there any one out there that is replacing a wood prop with a metal one
and has a balancer for sale . I weighed mine to day and my CG came in at 72
in empty. I am legal but I think I would be better off with a little more
weight in the front. Thats what I get for using a light weight starter and
alt. Please let me know if any body has one for sale. Thanks Hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Lightspeed destroys engine? (was: pistons) |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Gary, could you expound on the Lightspeed subject a bit more? I was
surprised to hear your comments because so far in several years on the RV
List this is the first negative thing I've heard about Lightspeed (maybe
I missed something??). Also from my discussions with Bart he seems to
think highly of it, and I was impressed when I looked at the system and
talked to Klaus Savier at OSH this year.
If there's problems with Lightspeed, especially those that destroy
engines, I'd like to know about it since I was planning to go the
Lightspeed route on my engine. Your comments are important but is it
fact or speculation? If speculation, it could do a lot of harm to the
reputation of a good product. If supported by hard facts I'd like to
know them, and assume many other Listers using (or considering) the
system would too.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit and overhaul / Lightspeed
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pistons
I would purchase the Lasar ignition system. I know of 3 people that
have had Lightspeed and have had problems. One RV even removed his
after his engine self-destructed and he had a large repair bill to
overhaul it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | Save Money on Your RV Project |
I have found that you can save money on your RV project by subscribing to
this list. I have saved a lot of money (and frustration) by making the right
choice when buying various products, and I have avoided products which were
not "correct" for me and my plane.
I also know that my plane is considerably better because of the things I
have learned on this list.
I suspect that 90% of those on the list would agree to the above.... Yet
why have so few put in so few bucks?
Geeezzzz dudes, ante up!
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Well this is it!!!!! |
In a message dated 11/29/01 7:37:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
prober(at)iwaynet.net writes:
> Well, we are almost at the end of the fund raiser. I personally would
> like to apologize to Matt for letting him down and not posting more about
> the fundraiser. To be honest I guess it just became more trouble than it
> was worth (to me) to hear all the griping I got last year. After a while
> it just gets to you and you figure........."What the h... maybe these guys
> are right."
> I was hoping that I would be proven wrong and that my prodding and
> pleading really wasn't needed to keep contributions up. I figured that
> this was a bunch of RV guys and as we all know, we can count on RV guys to
> do the right thing.
Al et al-
Speaking just for myself, and not to cop out, but I got laid off in July (now
working again) and I have given so much to charities this year (especially
after the 9/11 terrorist attacks) that I'm really tapped out... Oh, but you
don't want to hear my sob story. I'm sure that many of my fellow builders
out there have likewise had a taxing (pun intended) year financially (and I
don't even want to think about how many hundreds of thousands I lost in my
401K).
Anyway, when I was benefiting from the list I was giving, so I would ask only
that those of you who have benefited from the RV-List this year in ways that
you can express monetarily and you presently have the means, please donate to
the list fund. Besides, we know how embarrassing Al can be when he is
reduced to groveling, pleading and begging ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Listers,
A couple List Members have asked if the Lists are "in trouble financially"
and wanted to know if this is why I was having a Fund Raiser. It got to
thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also
take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide
a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a great amount of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
new List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of
use is outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth
of messages online for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew who where
building RVs. It has grown into nearly 40 different aviation-related Email
Lists and an associated web site that receives over 500,000 hits each
month!! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value
in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing
and improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Jabiru 8cyl update |
Just thought I would share this with the list. This is a reply to my request
for a update on their progress. Karl RV-8 711KN 200+ hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jabiru USA [mailto:usjabiru(at)athenet.net]
Subject: Re: 8 cyl.
Karl,
The engine is expected to be available in April but the first month or more
of production is already sold. The engine has flown 50+ hours on the
Spitfire and was back in the shop for teardown & inspection. It may already
be out and flying again.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Flight Center, LLC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: 8 cyl.
> Can you advise the current status on the 8 cyl engine? I would like to
> install one in my RV-8.
>
>
> Thanks
> Karl Schilling
> RV-8 711KN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:23:55 AM
There was a post a few years ago about a -4 with a backwards NACA duct on
the bottom skin back by the tail cone. The lesson learned was when he gave
the air in the cockpit a place to exit it would evenly pull the heated air
throughout the cockpit keeping the rear passenger the same temp as the guy
in the front office. Seems all the heated air was being forced under the
canopy skirts. One thing I was chewing on was the possibility of putting
louvers, ya know the ones the hotrod guys have stamped into their hoods, on
the baggage door to give the air a place to flow out. Thought about
louvering the bottom of the tail cone but got skeerd of what would happen
if it lost strength. Any ideas guys? What say ye dashing knights of the
air?
Eric
Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 11/29/2001 05:51:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping Warm
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
>
> Sam your 6 is almost identical (except for the engine) to Casper right
down to the
> Jantzi steering link (which is great). Is your canopy sealed. Mine isn't
sealed
> but is a very tight fit because the framework and skirts are all
carbon/epoxy
> (just the hinges are aluminum). There is air coming forward from the tail
and in
> the vents or heater. Where is it getting out? Any ideas?
> Garry "Casper"
Garry, I ran weatherseal (the stuff included in the kit) all the way
around the canopy (tip-up) and it fits very nicely with a satisfying,
air-cushioned "whump" as it closes. I feel no leaks around the canopy
but I do get a cold left elbow when the temps drop into the 30's. I
thought the cold air was coming in around the flap pushrod, but you have
me thinking that the tailcone may be the culprit.
The only way I can figure that air is getting out the cabin is around
the canopy, you know, the one I have weather sealed real good! :-)
Since we are bound to have some cold weather *sometime* this winter, I
may experiment with trying to seal the baggage bulkhead a little better,
though at this moment, I can't think of a good way to seal the
corrugated cover.
Seems what I need in the cabin is some counterflow......... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
> Those of you who have quite a few hours in flying with the
>S
>cowl, how have you found the attachment behind the spinner to hold up ?
I installed the S cowl per plans and after 285 hrs, no problems behind the
spinner. There are some rivets pulling thru the cowl for the hinge sections
located on the bottom rear next to the exhaust pipes. These were also
epoxied on but that was not enough.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6
Melbourne, FL Grounded again, this time for the Shuttle TFR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Somebody suggested putting a louver in one of the access panels where
you put the bolts in the elevator horns. If it doesn't work out, you can
make a new flat panel.
Not flying, but that's what I'd try,
Ed Holyoke
6QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: RV-List: Keeping Warm
There was a post a few years ago about a -4 with a backwards NACA duct
on
the bottom skin back by the tail cone. The lesson learned was when he
gave
the air in the cockpit a place to exit it would evenly pull the heated
air
throughout the cockpit keeping the rear passenger the same temp as the
guy
in the front office. Seems all the heated air was being forced under the
canopy skirts. One thing I was chewing on was the possibility of putting
louvers, ya know the ones the hotrod guys have stamped into their hoods,
on
the baggage door to give the air a place to flow out. Thought about
louvering the bottom of the tail cone but got skeerd of what would
happen
if it lost strength. Any ideas guys? What say ye dashing knights of the
air?
Eric
Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 11/29/2001 05:51:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping Warm
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
>
> Sam your 6 is almost identical (except for the engine) to Casper right
down to the
> Jantzi steering link (which is great). Is your canopy sealed. Mine
isn't
sealed
> but is a very tight fit because the framework and skirts are all
carbon/epoxy
> (just the hinges are aluminum). There is air coming forward from the
tail
and in
> the vents or heater. Where is it getting out? Any ideas?
> Garry "Casper"
Garry, I ran weatherseal (the stuff included in the kit) all the way
around the canopy (tip-up) and it fits very nicely with a satisfying,
air-cushioned "whump" as it closes. I feel no leaks around the canopy
but I do get a cold left elbow when the temps drop into the 30's. I
thought the cold air was coming in around the flap pushrod, but you have
me thinking that the tailcone may be the culprit.
The only way I can figure that air is getting out the cabin is around
the canopy, you know, the one I have weather sealed real good! :-)
Since we are bound to have some cold weather *sometime* this winter, I
may experiment with trying to seal the baggage bulkhead a little better,
though at this moment, I can't think of a good way to seal the
corrugated cover.
Seems what I need in the cabin is some counterflow......... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Status of the ATP turbine |
Reply to my request for update. Karl RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Nearhoof [mailto:atpcoinc(at)netphd.net]
Subject: Re: Status
Karl,
Everything on the engine is going well. We received a MT prop for the RV-4.
We will have the engine on the stand next week
doing final testing on the prop. The engine should be back on the plane next
week and in the air soon after. We are a little behind schedule but we are
moving cautiously so thing are done right.
Thanks for the interest,
Scott Hall
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Status
> What is the current status of the engine program?
>
>
> Thanks Karl Schilling
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PurplePassion120(at)aol.com |
Subject: | 220 Franklyn Engine |
Claudio tanking install 220 Franklyn in my RV8. Anybody there have some
experience with this engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
"fAA"
Subject: | Fw: More on AeroShell |
FYI
----- Original Message -----
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: More on AeroShell
Just spoke with technical services at Shell, 800-231-6950. A small amount
of debris contaminated some oil. Best way to figure out if you have the
affected batch is to look at the code lettering on the case. The code will
have 2 letters, then 6 digits. The 2 letters are the location. In this
incident, you are looking for "WR" (Wood River). The next six digits are
the date, MM,DD,YY. The dates in question are September 7, 2001 (090701),
through November 23, 2001 (112301). If you've got some of this brew, it's
probably best to call them. When asked, I told them I had the case at the
hangar. If you have only the bottle containers, there is a more complicated
coding system a process he was reluctant to relate to me, possibly due to
the number of calls they're receiving. 800-231-6950 I'm sure that if
someone called with only the bottles, they would take the time to explain
it.
They're in the process of obtaining samples and said that the FAA was aware
of the situation. They also stated that they were working with the engine
manufacturers on a solution, if a problem is found.
I hope my case was sitting around for a while, because I picked it up smack
dab in the middle of that fiasco.
Anyone contact AVWeb?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fw: More on AeroShell |
In a message dated 11/30/2001 8:24:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
>
> FYI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
> To: "Beech List"
> Subject: More on AeroShell
>
>
> Just spoke with technical services at Shell, 800-231-6950. A small amount
> of debris contaminated some oil. Best way to figure out if you have the
> affected batch is to look at the code lettering on the case. The code will
> have 2 letters, then 6 digits. The 2 letters are the location. In this
> incident, you are looking for "WR" (Wood River). The next six digits are
> the date, MM,DD,YY. The dates in question are September 7, 2001 (090701),
> through November 23, 2001 (112301). If you've got some of this brew, it's
> probably best to call them. When asked, I told them I had the case at the
> hangar. If you have only the bottle containers, there is a more
> complicated
> coding system a process he was reluctant to relate to me, possibly due to
> the number of calls they're receiving. 800-231-6950 I'm sure that if
> someone called with only the bottles, they would take the time to explain
> it.
>
> They're in the process of obtaining samples and said that the FAA was aware
> of the situation. They also stated that they were working with the engine
> manufacturers on a solution, if a problem is found.
>
> I hope my case was sitting around for a while, because I picked it up smack
> dab in the middle of that fiasco.
>
>
> Anyone contact AVWeb?
>
I just did an oil change my with the (contaminated) oil, AreoShell 50W
100Plus, the number in question is on the bottom of the plastic bottles
"EWA011943810021, I have called but they have not called me back yet. The big
bummer is I only have 4 hrs on this oil change.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Thanks for the response Sam, I think I'm getting a handle on what's going on. I
think
it's the Kamm effect! The holes in the tail end of the fuselage are letting this
pressurized air into the tail cone where it travels forward to the cabin area.
The
pressure must be significant as it has to overcome the vent or heater inlet pressure.
When I open my vents (3 of them) the flow from the tail diminishes, so there must
be one
hell of a fight going on.
This weekend I'm going to seal up the hole in the rear bulkhead (#610) with a boot
similar to what you posted for the ailerons but larger as the hole is 6". There
are also
2 -4" holes in bulkhead #609 and 2 - 4' holes in the aft deck #614 which I will
seal
with .016 alum plates. I'm going to flight test this configuration and will issue
a
report early next week. This will be the first step of a program that will also
look
into where the air is exiting the fuselage and whether it is causing unnecessary
drag
doing so. If we can eliminate this drag we will have a more efficient vent system
and a
faster airplane. My baseline for Casper is 202 MPH at 8000 DA, 21.4" MP, 2700 RPM
at
1590 LB.. This is still with the Sensenich 85" fixed pitch prop.
A word of caution, please don't do any of the mods I mention on your aircraft,
until
after I have done a full test series and reported back the findings. To point out
just
one of the problems you may run into; The boot sealing off the hole in #610 bulkhead,
will have a pressure differential from the aft side to the forward side. Without
accurately measuring the pressure and factoring in the area of the boot, we won't
know
what the actual effect will be on the controllability and feel of the elevator
until
after flying it through the entire envelope.
Garry "Casper"
PS, The Cover can be sealed with 1" triangles of a compressible foam, I think
you'll
need 14 of them.
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Garry LeGare wrote:
> >
> >
> > Sam your 6 is almost identical (except for the engine) to Casper right down
to the
> > Jantzi steering link (which is great). Is your canopy sealed. Mine isn't sealed
> > but is a very tight fit because the framework and skirts are all carbon/epoxy
> > (just the hinges are aluminum). There is air coming forward from the tail and
in
> > the vents or heater. Where is it getting out? Any ideas?
> > Garry "Casper"
>
> Garry, I ran weatherseal (the stuff included in the kit) all the way
> around the canopy (tip-up) and it fits very nicely with a satisfying,
> air-cushioned "whump" as it closes. I feel no leaks around the canopy
> but I do get a cold left elbow when the temps drop into the 30's. I
> thought the cold air was coming in around the flap pushrod, but you have
> me thinking that the tailcone may be the culprit.
>
> The only way I can figure that air is getting out the cabin is around
> the canopy, you know, the one I have weather sealed real good! :-)
>
> Since we are bound to have some cold weather *sometime* this winter, I
> may experiment with trying to seal the baggage bulkhead a little better,
> though at this moment, I can't think of a good way to seal the
> corrugated cover.
>
> Seems what I need in the cabin is some counterflow......... ;-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: More on AeroShell |
EAA is verifying the situation and will post on www.eaa.org if it pans out.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: More on AeroShell
In a message dated 11/30/2001 8:24:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
>
> FYI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
> To: "Beech List"
> Subject: More on AeroShell
>
>
> Just spoke with technical services at Shell, 800-231-6950. A small amount
> of debris contaminated some oil. Best way to figure out if you have the
> affected batch is to look at the code lettering on the case. The code
will
> have 2 letters, then 6 digits. The 2 letters are the location. In this
> incident, you are looking for "WR" (Wood River). The next six digits are
> the date, MM,DD,YY. The dates in question are September 7, 2001 (090701),
> through November 23, 2001 (112301). If you've got some of this brew, it's
> probably best to call them. When asked, I told them I had the case at the
> hangar. If you have only the bottle containers, there is a more
> complicated
> coding system a process he was reluctant to relate to me, possibly due to
> the number of calls they're receiving. 800-231-6950 I'm sure that if
> someone called with only the bottles, they would take the time to explain
> it.
>
> They're in the process of obtaining samples and said that the FAA was
aware
> of the situation. They also stated that they were working with the engine
> manufacturers on a solution, if a problem is found.
>
> I hope my case was sitting around for a while, because I picked it up
smack
> dab in the middle of that fiasco.
>
>
> Anyone contact AVWeb?
>
I just did an oil change my with the (contaminated) oil, AreoShell 50W
100Plus, the number in question is on the bottom of the plastic bottles
"EWA011943810021, I have called but they have not called me back yet. The
big
bummer is I only have 4 hrs on this oil change.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Free Stuff Reminder... |
Dear Listers,
Don't forget that you can receive a free copy of Van's new Video, "The RV
Story" with a $50 or greater contribution this year, or a $10 Gift
Certificate from Brown Tool for a $30 or greater contribution or a $25 Gift
Certificate for a $100 contribution. Below are two URLs for complete
information on the two Offers. Please follow the respective instructions
*carefully*.
Van's Video Offer Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5781141?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09092616692?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Brown Aviation Tool Gift Certificate Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5838463?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09080216166?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
I want to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore and Michael Brown of
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for their generous offers in support the
Lists this year!! Thank you, guys!
I'd like to thank everyone that has already made a generous Contribution in
support of the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Well this is it!!!!! |
Matt: It's kinda sad when you think about it, that so many guys will spend
multi-thousands on their projects and won't spring for 20 or 30 bucks to
support this list! I have gathered a wealth of useful (and yes, valuable)
information from the list and hope to continue doing so as I get closer to
flying. That said, I'm putting another 20 bucks in the mail to bring my
total for this year to $50 with the $30 I sent in September before the
current drive even started. Come on you guys!!!!!!!!!!!!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
This just came in my email. Be careful what you open.
From: "Austin" <_6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Exhaust pipe hangers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Posting for a friend.
RV4 Empennage kit $350 obo. (plus shipping)
This kit was purchased in the late 80's and was never touched.
Below is a message from Randy on the subject;
This might be a good "spares" kit for you RV4 Flyers.
"Re: the RV-4 tail kit: If you have access to an RV List, I welcome
advertising the kit. It is complete; however, it has been unpacked for
several years. I ordered it from Van's in the "eighties" (1987?), but have
done nothing in the way of work other than carefully unpack it. The price
is certainly negotiable. I would be happy to see someone working on it
rather than see it sitting on the shelf. The alclad skins are still shiney
and the rough cut aluminum pieces are "as-cut" by Van's."
Contact Randy Wilde rkwilde(at)pacbell.net
650-968-3048
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Please disregard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Colw Spinner Backplate Gap |
Hi RVer's
I need your collective brains again. I've searched the archives
exhaustively and found quite a bit of data on this subject, but no good
hints on fixes. Van's didn't have much to say about it, except to basically
"make it fit".
Here's the deal. I'm fitting the cowl and when it's all properly aligned,
the gap between the spinner bulkhead and the cowl is tapered from 1/8" at
the top to 1/2" at the bottom. I checked and rechecked my mounts, and with
my smart level found that the vertical plane of the spinner bulkhead is
within .1 degrees of the firewall, so I don't think it's my engine. Even
taking into account engine sag (My engine has only been hung for 6 weeks), I
don't think the gap will even out.
My question is how to best fix this.
A. cut off the nose ring and re-glass it on.
B. build up the bottom portion of the ring with filler/glass to match.
C. try to heat and bend it into shape.
Please let me know which has worked for you if you've had this problem.
My engine is an AEIO-360-B4A, RV6, S-Type cowl.
Thanks in advance,
Stein Bruch.
Finishing/wiring, RV6 Minneapolis.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | Cowl Spinner Backplate Gap |
Stein,
I can't say why you have the problem that you have, however, I do have an
opinion about how to fix it....provided that the problem is not with the
motor mounts...etc. and that the problem IS with the glass parts themselves.
Cutting the entire ring off and re-glassing it on would be the most
difficult, and I would strongly discourage you from this. Heating is a trick
to help make fiberglass parts take on a different shape, but you will not be
able to the problems you describe go away with this technique, and you are
likely to simply weaken the structure necessitating further glass work if
you try. Again, Heating is a nice trick for subtle changes, but not when you
have a complex part that won't fit.
The easiest way to fix what you describe (and what I have seen on several
finished RVs) is to make the most forward (closest) fitting part fit... Find
one part (or part of a part) that will not be altered, and get it in place.
Then, build up the part that is too far away. It is important to do this
properly if it is to look good for many years to come. If its 1/8 inch or
more, don't use filler of any sort. Better to make the part in the shape
you want it with some "form", then put about 4 layers of fiberglass cloth
over it. For the flat part right behind the spinner, you can tape a thin
piece of Styrofoam, cardboard, (or playdo) or other material in place, trim
it with a razor blade to the right shape, then lay some glass on it
overlapping onto the main cowl part. I love using playdo for making my
forms, but here you have a very flat piece that needs to stay flat, and a
piece of foam or cardboard may make it easier to keep the surface square and
flat. Sand the cowl first so the overlapping fiberglass resin sticks. Once
this is done, then you can use some form of filler to help bring it to the
perfect shape. For filler I use Epoxy Resin with Microballoons
preferentially... especially in this part. If a second layer of filler is
needed for the really fine tuning, then anything you want to use will be
fine.
Jim
Tampa
(did some of this tonight!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Listers,
Below are some of the comments I've received just this week alone from
members along with their Contributions to support the Lists! What can I
say? Wow. I really appreciate the kind words and extremely positive
feedback and I would encourage you to read over a few of comments below. I
think they really say a mouthful...
The last couple of days have seen a huge increase in support!! Thank you
to all that have Contributed and to those that have rallied support for the
Lists! Since the response has been so wonderful recently, I plan to delay
the posting of the 2001 List of Contributors a few days to assure that
everyone will be included!
Won't you make your Contribution today to support the Lists?
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
------------------------------------------
Thank you to everyone for the kind words and support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
======== Some Great Comments on What The Lists Mean to its Members =========
...great source of information, education,
relaxation, frustration, and socialization.
- John H.
Can't imagine what it would be like building
with out the Lists...
- Steven E.
Look forward to the list every day.
- Parker T.
I really enjoy reading the banter...
- Wesley H.
...enjoy the patter on construction tips and
possible problem areas.
- Richard N.
Couldn't have built my RV-4 without the List
and archives!!
- Warren M.
I have found the list to be a great help,
especially for a first time builder.
- Peter D.
I thoroughly enjoy the List.
- Larry B.
The List is a great resource.
- Dennis K.
The list is great entertainment.
- Gary Z.
Can't say enough about the good information
that I have received from reading the List.
- Robert C.
...it's the best!
- Steve F.
I'm addicted to the List!
- Rodney B.
The list has been a wonderful resource of
knowledge.
- Doug B.
As a first time builder, the lists have
been my most important source of information.
- James V.
It [read the List] is the first thing I do
every day is see what's new.
- Billie F.
The information available through the List
has made my flying safer...
- Dave R.
I get much more information about my plane
from this List than from all of my aviation
magazines combined.
- Roger H.
I love the list!!!!
- Ken L.
Much better value than a magazine subscription.
- Ted M.
...found it very useful.
- Allan J.
...this list has been a great service to me.
- Peter F.
I cannot express just how USEFUL the Lists are.
- Geoff T.
...a tremendous help to my RV-8 project and
a way to meet some of the best people going.
- Steve G.
The List is invaluable, and the best I've
ever seen.
- Ed C.
Like another family for many of us.
- John H.
The lists have saved a bunch of calls to
Van's for guidance.
- James V.
I think I'm addicted...
- Terry C.
Love it!
- David W.
The information really helps...
- Jim P.
...I find [it] very informative.
- Real D.
...List keeps me motivated... - Cliff M.
The exchange of information is really helpful...
- M.N.
Lots of great info on the List.
- Larry D.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Colw Spinner Backplate Gap |
Build up the bottom portion with glass filler.
Is it s cowl or polyester?
Bernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV-List: Colw Spinner Backplate Gap
>
> Hi RVer's
>
> I need your collective brains again. I've searched the archives
> exhaustively and found quite a bit of data on this subject, but no good
> hints on fixes. Van's didn't have much to say about it, except to
basically
> "make it fit".
>
> Here's the deal. I'm fitting the cowl and when it's all properly aligned,
> the gap between the spinner bulkhead and the cowl is tapered from 1/8" at
> the top to 1/2" at the bottom. I checked and rechecked my mounts, and
with
> my smart level found that the vertical plane of the spinner bulkhead is
> within .1 degrees of the firewall, so I don't think it's my engine. Even
> taking into account engine sag (My engine has only been hung for 6 weeks),
I
> don't think the gap will even out.
>
> My question is how to best fix this.
>
> A. cut off the nose ring and re-glass it on.
> B. build up the bottom portion of the ring with filler/glass to match.
> C. try to heat and bend it into shape.
>
> Please let me know which has worked for you if you've had this problem.
>
> My engine is an AEIO-360-B4A, RV6, S-Type cowl.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Stein Bruch.
> Finishing/wiring, RV6 Minneapolis.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Cabin Venting, was:Keeping Warm |
The discussion about keeping warm, in particular the desire to reduce
inflow of cold air while increasing the flow of warm air, has me trying
out the new list photo share.
I have sent some photos (but don't see them yet) of my solution in an
RV-6.
Sport Aviation has done airflow analysis (computer generated) on
several airframes, one of which was an RV-6A. One reason I never throw
out my magazines (much to my wife's distress) is that you never know
when something will be needed!
Anyway, I remembered that article when I went to do something about
reducing cabin pressure blowing out my slider side skirts. The goal is
the same - a tight cabin.
Turns out there is a low pressure area on the bottom of the fuselage
just behind the wings where the fuse breaks and starts tapering (behind
the cone-zone). This turned out to be perfect for my plan to put
grills in the baggage panel and then route the cabin "exhaust" to an
outlet.
The location of low pressure allowed the simple expedient of a
90-degree vent fixture attached to the back of the panel, and a short
run of aluminum dryer hose to the louvered exhaust vents.
So I got out my building album and scanned 5 pictures of the process
and parts and sent them to pictures(at)matronics.com. I guess they will
eventually show up at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cowl Spinner Backplate Gap |
From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/30/01 21:55, Jim Norman at jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com wrote:
>
> Stein,
> I can't say why you have the problem that you have, however, I do have an
> opinion about how to fix it....provided that the problem is not with the
> motor mounts...etc. and that the problem IS with the glass parts themselves.
>
> Cutting the entire ring off and re-glassing it on would be the most
> difficult, and I would strongly discourage you from this. Heating is a trick
> to help make fiberglass parts take on a different shape, but you will not be
> able to the problems you describe go away with this technique, and you are
> likely to simply weaken the structure necessitating further glass work if
> you try. Again, Heating is a nice trick for subtle changes, but not when you
> have a complex part that won't fit.
>
> The easiest way to fix what you describe (and what I have seen on several
> finished RVs) is to make the most forward (closest) fitting part fit... Find
> one part (or part of a part) that will not be altered, and get it in place.
> Then, build up the part that is too far away. It is important to do this
> properly if it is to look good for many years to come. If its 1/8 inch or
> more, don't use filler of any sort. Better to make the part in the shape
> you want it with some "form", then put about 4 layers of fiberglass cloth
> over it. For the flat part right behind the spinner, you can tape a thin
> piece of Styrofoam, cardboard, (or playdo) or other material in place, trim
> it with a razor blade to the right shape, then lay some glass on it
> overlapping onto the main cowl part. I love using playdo for making my
> forms, but here you have a very flat piece that needs to stay flat, and a
> piece of foam or cardboard may make it easier to keep the surface square and
> flat. Sand the cowl first so the overlapping fiberglass resin sticks. Once
> this is done, then you can use some form of filler to help bring it to the
> perfect shape. For filler I use Epoxy Resin with Microballoons
> preferentially... especially in this part. If a second layer of filler is
> needed for the really fine tuning, then anything you want to use will be
> fine.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
> (did some of this tonight!)
>
Ditto here. I cut my ring and re attached. Not a good way to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cabin Venting, was:Keeping Warm |
Mike can't wait to see those pictures as I live and flying "Tropical Ohio"!
Another question for the list though: I have Robbins Dual Muffs and Carb
Heat and was wondering if there is a preference for Heater boxes on the fire
wall? Van's has 2 different models which would seem to be of decent quality
and take up little space.
What say the guys who have "Been There....Done That."
Tom "IN Balmy Ohio"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cabin Venting, was:Keeping Warm
>
> The discussion about keeping warm, in particular the desire to reduce
> inflow of cold air while increasing the flow of warm air, has me trying
> out the new list photo share.
>
> I have sent some photos (but don't see them yet) of my solution in an
> RV-6.
>
> Sport Aviation has done airflow analysis (computer generated) on
> several airframes, one of which was an RV-6A. One reason I never throw
> out my magazines (much to my wife's distress) is that you never know
> when something will be needed!
>
> Anyway, I remembered that article when I went to do something about
> reducing cabin pressure blowing out my slider side skirts. The goal is
> the same - a tight cabin.
>
> Turns out there is a low pressure area on the bottom of the fuselage
> just behind the wings where the fuse breaks and starts tapering (behind
> the cone-zone). This turned out to be perfect for my plan to put
> grills in the baggage panel and then route the cabin "exhaust" to an
> outlet.
> The location of low pressure allowed the simple expedient of a
> 90-degree vent fixture attached to the back of the panel, and a short
> run of aluminum dryer hose to the louvered exhaust vents.
>
> So I got out my building album and scanned 5 pictures of the process
> and parts and sent them to pictures(at)matronics.com. I guess they will
> eventually show up at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare.
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Attatchment from John Warren |
I got the same message, deleted it without opening.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 12/1/2001 7:36:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mikel(at)dimensional.com writes:
> I just received an attachment from John Warren subject Re: RV-list; Flight
> which my Norton picked up. Since there is no subject, and Matt's server does
> not allow attachments, I have to assume it came directly form John. Be
>
> Have you DONATED yet?
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV-6A - Wingtip-Aileron-Flap-Fuselage Lineup |
Project: RV-6A - rigging flaps and ailerons, next to do, wingtips.
Situation: the ailerons are on and rigged to neutral using the "wing and
aileron rib tooling hole lineup" method. The flaps are also on and fit
very nicely to the underside of the fuselage (a nice slick design job).
The wing incidence is set as per the instructions.
Problem: neutral aileron and fully retracted flap position means there
is a 3/8" to 1/2" misalignment between the aileron and flap trailing
edges with the flap being higher.
Options:
1) live with the aileron and flap misalignment as is, downside - some
possible interference drag at the aileron/flap discontinuity (plus picky
RV builders will wonder how he could have screwed that up ...)
2) keep the flaps nicely faired with the fuselage bottom, and readjust
the ailerons to match - this will means about 3/8" "reflex" or TE up on
the ailerons, causing the "Frise" nose to drop slightly below the lower
surface of the wing.
3) leave the ailerons "as is", lined up in a nice aerodynamic "neutral"
position, and move the flaps down to match them and live with a slight
"positive" flap setting of 3-5 degs permanently and some interference
drag at the flap root rib.
4) junk project and start over (no, not really an option !)
Looking in the archives, I am not the first to come up against this
situation. Most recommendations were of the "keep the aileron position,
match the flaps to the ailerons, and fiddle something at the flap root
to smooth things out there" school.
Any current thinking on this ?
From an aerodynamic standpoint, a bit of trailing edge reflex or
"negative flap, negative aileron" setting could be said to have some
benefit during cruise flight. (Ask anyone who flies a higher performance
sailplane about this - I have an ASW-20). My only worry from this
standpoint is the slight downward bulge that the aileron nose would
place in the underside of the wing in this configuration might more than
overcome the slight advantage that the negative "cruise flap" might be
offering.
On the other hand, "Drooping" the flap to match the aileron has some
theoretical negative effect on cruise drag but might help the low speed
situation a bit.
On yet another hand, maybe there will be no practical aerodynamic effect
observable between options 1,2, or 3 and I should just make it look nice
and get on with life?
Thanks for any useful inputs...
Jim Oke
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-????
P.S. Thinking about my RV-3, nothing on the wing TE lines up that well
and it flies and performs just fine - which may be my answer right
there.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
"John Harmon" , "RV List" ,
"Allen L. Mecum"
Subject: | Good news and bad news. |
The bad news first: (my momma to always told me to end on a happy note.)
We, Gummibear & Kabong, no longer have an HRII Harmon Rocket kit. At a few
moments before 7:00am this morning the KIT was removed from the hanger at
Apple Valley Airport. (APV Calif.).
The good news: The HRII Harmon Rocket (Gummo Special) is now an
airplane. With Joe Fitsgerald at the controls the KIT became the completed
and flying airplane, the 78th Rocket. First flight was for more the 30 mins.
Two of our local RV-4 drivers went up with the Rocket on the first flight,
Gummibear in the backseat of one of them. Had breakfast, fixed two
camlocks, wiped off a small bit of oil, tightened a coupla nuts & prepared
for flight #2. This one was for more than an hour. Everything works as
advertized only better.
During #2 Joe was flying above the pattern and wide of same, on one down
wind he overtook and passed a 172 and a Yankee. The 172 continued and
landed. The Yankee powered up and was closing on Joe as he turned upwind.
Joe made a gentle left 90 and the Yankee took a 45 inside at full power. He
closed to within about 1/4 mile with "b#$@'s to the wall", Joe, without
knowing he was there, increased to about 70% power and ,"have you every seen
what the roadrunner does to ole Wiley", will this was better.
We'll have numbers and stuff later. If you've seen a RV grin you know
about what a Rocket one looks like. More later. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
congradulations guys, man i envey you guys. i bet you want get much sleep
tonight, knowing that that rocket is just sitting there needing to be riden.
keep us updated on upcoming flight testing and trips.
scott
tampa
i got broken into again last night, now i;m convienced someone has a key.
4 times in 2 weeks, hope i catch that bastard.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
> The good news: The HRII Harmon Rocket (Gummo Special) is now an
> airplane.
Congratulations, you guys!
"Endeavor to persevere"... or something like that.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
Tom,
CONGRATULATIONS AND WELL DONE !!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
From: "John Starn" <JHSTARN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: "Rocket List" , "John Harmon" ,
"RV List" , "Allen L. Mecum"
Subject: RV-List: Good news and bad news.
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 14:26:08 -0800
-- RV-List message posted by: "John Starn"
The bad news first: (my momma to always told me to end on a happy note.)
We, Gummibear Kabong, no longer have an HRII Harmon Rocket kit. At a few
moments before 7:00am this morning the KIT was removed from the hanger at
Apple Valley Airport. (APV Calif.).
The good news: The HRII Harmon Rocket (Gummo Special) is now an
airplane. With Joe Fitsgerald at the controls the KIT became the completed
and flying airplane, the 78th Rocket. First flight was for more the 30 mins.
Two of our local RV-4 drivers went up with the Rocket on the first flight,
Gummibear in the backseat of one of them. Had breakfast, fixed two
camlocks, wiped off a small bit of oil, tightened a coupla nuts prepared
for flight #2. This one was for more than an hour. Everything works as
advertized only better.
During #2 Joe was flying above the pattern and wide of same, on one down
wind he overtook and passed a 172 and a Yankee. The 172 continued and
landed. The Yankee powered up and was closing on Joe as he turned upwind.
Joe made a gentle left 90 and the Yankee took a 45 inside at full power. He
closed to within about 1/4 mile with "b#$@'s to the wall", Joe, without
knowing he was there, increased to about 70% power and ,"have you every seen
what the roadrunner does to ole Wiley", will this was better.
We'll have numbers and stuff later. If you've seen a RV grin you know
about what a Rocket one looks like. More later. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Paint in cowl's piano hinges |
Listers,
I have recently put my RV6 in the paint shop and today went there to put it
back together. I noticed they painted the piano hinges and sure enough
getting the rods through has been close to impossible. It used to be a
no-brainer. Any ideas/suggestions on how to clean/remove the paint from the
hinges?
Thanks,
Moshe Lichtman
RV6 Flying New
RV6A Flying (for sale)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Paint in cowl's piano hinges |
i had this problem when some resin got in the eyes of the hinges. what i did
to fix it was to make a drill bit out of the hinge pin and put it on a
cordless drill and run it in and out a few times. to make a drill tip take
some cutting plyers and cut the very tip off. it doesn't have to be perfect
as it will be spinning fast on the drill. shove it in all the way and you
should be good. wait that sounds bad. i'm going to bed.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | RV-6A - Wingtip-Aileron-Flap-Fuselage Lineup |
Project: RV-6A - rigging flaps and ailerons, next to do, wingtips.
Situation: the ailerons are on and rigged to neutral using the "wing and
aileron rib tooling hole lineup" method. The flaps are also on and fit
very nicely to the underside of the fuselage (a nice slick design job).
The wing incidence is set as per the instructions.
Problem: neutral aileron and fully retracted flap position means there
is a 3/8" to 1/2" misalignment between the aileron and flap trailing
edges with the flap being higher.
Hi Jim
I had a similar problem on one side, and decided that the problem was that I
had (somehow?) mounted the A606 & A607 aileron brackets too low on the aft
spar. Bought new brackets, about $5 each and mounter the aileron slightly
higher. Trailing edges look great now but will not know how it fly's until
first flight which is scheduled for May 30, 2002.
George McNutt
6A - Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Paint in cowl's piano hinges |
Hi Moshe;
One method likely to work is to take a long wire the same diameter as the hinge
pin and file or
grind a flat on one side for an inch or two. You then chuck the other end of this
wire in a variable
speed drill and while turning it slowly run this wire through the hinge eyes. The
flat works like
the clearance on a drill bit allowing the paint somewhere to go and once this is
worked the length
of the hinge you should have no more problem.
A much better alternative to the home-made "drill" is to purchase a real drill
from this company (or
one similar) and do the same slow ream but using a proper drill bit.
http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/drilltype.html
If you scroll down this page you will find "aircraft drills" in any diameter up
to 72" long. These
should do the trick nicely. Just go SLOWLY and carefully
Bob McC
Moshe Lichtman wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have recently put my RV6 in the paint shop and today went there to put it
> back together. I noticed they painted the piano hinges and sure enough
> getting the rods through has been close to impossible. It used to be a
> no-brainer. Any ideas/suggestions on how to clean/remove the paint from the
> hinges?
>
> Thanks,
> Moshe Lichtman
> RV6 Flying New
> RV6A Flying (for sale)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dum Dum award candidate |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: dum dum award candidate |
I hereby place my name as candidate for the dum dum award. Mounted the oil
cooler on the firewall of my 6. Installed the 3" flange on the back wall of
the baffle and connected the duct tube. Nice straight run, looking good,
feeling good....... Oh X*#X&!!!! Quick, get the dipstick tube out of that
dusty old box on the shelf. Will it screw in? Not today my friend. My nice
clean installation was directly in the path of the dipstick tube. 5 hours
later I now have a rear baffle with a patch riveted on and 4 extra holes in
the firewall where the oil cooler was bolted before I had to move it.
dum dum dum. Oh well, the cooler is installed and with a little luck this
bird should be flying late spring/early summer.
Bill
RV 6 IO 320
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
Subject: | wing tip nav antenna |
Hello listers
I have a copper strip Nav antenna from Van's
Can anybody tell me what's the best place to glass this in?
Thanks in advance
Arnold de Brie RV8
The netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Baffle Plenum? |
Don:
Can you pleae include me on that email? Thanks very much.
Don Eaves wrote:
>
>
> I will send you a set of picks of my metal plenum.
> Contact me off list and I will help you with the details.
> Works Great and I would spend the time to do it again.
> Don Eaves
> RV6 80+- Hrs.
--
Tom Sargent. - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Baffle Plenum? |
--- tom sargent wrote:
>
> Don:
> Can you pleae include me on that email? Thanks very much.
If I may interject here, we have a local builder (-8A) who did an
outstanding job in his engine compartment (actually the whole plane).
I of course have a roll or two of my own pictures to which to refer
when I get to the baffling. But here is Jim's web site:
http://rv8a.tripod.com/engine.html
I think you will find it helpful when building a metal plenum from
Van's baffle kit.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Buick Aluminum Block
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tbird@ptsi.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV9-List(at)matronics.com
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Metal Engine Plenum Baffle
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/doneaves@midsouth.rr.com/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Panel Shock Mounting Question |
Can anyone give me an idea how many Cessna type instrument panel shock mounts
should be used for a six gauge cluster consisting of AS, AH, Alt.,
MicroEncoder, DG and Navaid head? I haven't the foggiest idea where to
obtain the data necessary to try to calculate this, and probably couldn't if
I had the data. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV9-List(at)matronics.com
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Cabin Air Exhaust Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/grobdriver@yahoo.com/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cabin Venting, was:Keeping Warm |
Mike do you have a date for the Issue you are referencing? I'm quite
interested as I've already done a preliminary airframe tuft test and have
isolated a number of areas on the RV6 that could use a little help.
Garry "Casper"
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> The discussion about keeping warm, in particular the desire to reduce
> inflow of cold air while increasing the flow of warm air, has me trying
> out the new list photo share.
>
> I have sent some photos (but don't see them yet) of my solution in an
> RV-6.
>
> Sport Aviation has done airflow analysis (computer generated) on
> several airframes, one of which was an RV-6A. One reason I never throw
> out my magazines (much to my wife's distress) is that you never know
> when something will be needed!
>
> Anyway, I remembered that article when I went to do something about
> reducing cabin pressure blowing out my slider side skirts. The goal is
> the same - a tight cabin.
>
> Turns out there is a low pressure area on the bottom of the fuselage
> just behind the wings where the fuse breaks and starts tapering (behind
> the cone-zone). This turned out to be perfect for my plan to put
> grills in the baggage panel and then route the cabin "exhaust" to an
> outlet.
> The location of low pressure allowed the simple expedient of a
> 90-degree vent fixture attached to the back of the panel, and a short
> run of aluminum dryer hose to the louvered exhaust vents.
>
> So I got out my building album and scanned 5 pictures of the process
> and parts and sent them to pictures(at)matronics.com. I guess they will
> eventually show up at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
Subject: | RV-6A QB for sale |
I have an RV-6A, tip-up canopy, quickbuild for sale:
Delivered in August, 2000. Includes the following:
* Quickbuild fuselage and wings
* Empennage about 1/2 completed, some work completed on the fuselage
* 2 wing landing lights
* Passenger and pilot steps
* Dual vent system
* Electric flaps, elevator and aileron trim systems
* Capacitive fuel probes
* Welded SS firewall box, recessed for CS propeller govenor/oil filter.
$12,000. I live in Minneapolis.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Preston" <dprestonsr1(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB for sale |
Nancy,
Appreciate your response. Looking for flying A/C. Building 7A but can't
wait.
Thanks,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB for sale
>
> I have an RV-6A, tip-up canopy, quickbuild for sale:
>
> Delivered in August, 2000. Includes the following:
> * Quickbuild fuselage and wings
> * Empennage about 1/2 completed, some work completed on the fuselage
> * 2 wing landing lights
> * Passenger and pilot steps
> * Dual vent system
> * Electric flaps, elevator and aileron trim systems
> * Capacitive fuel probes
> * Welded SS firewall box, recessed for CS propeller govenor/oil filter.
>
> $12,000. I live in Minneapolis.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
In a message dated 12/2/01 3:21:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
durosset(at)fidnet.com writes:
<< This thread brings up a line of thought that I have heard many
misunderstandings on. If your kit is in your garage at any stage of
completion, to what extent is it covered by your home-owners insurance for
both theft and casualty? What about your valuables you have in your hanger?
>>
Funny you should ask. I had this discussion with each of my 3 insurance
companys last week. Also, I've had discussions with them in the past on the
same subjects.
My basic question was "what if someone breaks into my hangar or car and takes
my portable GPS, headsets, etc.". This led to a much longer discussion with
my insurance representatives.
Here's what I was told:
Homeowner's insurance (State Farm). Doesn't cover airplane or engine parts
from being stolen, burned, or whatever misfortune befalls them during
construction. Will not cover airplane accessories stored at the airport.
Tools are covered, but (depending on the policy), you may get depreciated
value, or there may be a pay-out ceiling on tools unless you have a special
"rider" above and beyond the normal policy.
Auto insurance (State Farm): Doesn't cover anything, even if your GPS,
headsets, etc. are stolen from your car.
Aircraft insurance (AIG): Aircraft is covered. Accessories (portable GPS,
Headsets, etc) and tools at the airport are not covered by the aviation
policy.
Your policies may be different.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler verdict? |
General consensus seems to be that the rank order of cooling efficiency is:
Posi Tech, Niagara, Stewart Warner. They are all well built so that isn't an
issue, just the cooling efficiency. I changed out a Niagara for a Stewart
Warner and did a back to back comparison. Bottom line: I experienced a
slight improvement, 8-10 degrees under comparable conditions. You can read
the story and see the pics at...
http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm#Oil%20cooler
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL, 140 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler verdict?
>
> Without, I repeat, without starting a new oil cooler thread, which was the
> cooler won the debate? I seem to recall several testimonials on which
> cooler worked better, was built better, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler verdict? |
In a message dated 12/2/01 4:36:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
<< Without, I repeat, without starting a new oil cooler thread, which was the
cooler won the debate? I seem to recall several testimonials on which
cooler worked better, was built better, etc.
Thanks.
Paul Besing >>
The consensus was that the "Real" Stewart Warner is the best. Remember,
Van's sells "Stewart Warner Type" coolers, which are actually Niagra.
I've sent my Positech back to the factory to be re-cored with their new core
design, and will post back to the list how it performs compared to before and
compared to the Niagra that I'm running now.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
with builders risk, it will cover your airplane, is parts, avionics and
engine and prop and labor from theft or vandelisim. homeowners will pay for
your tools. my policy only allowed 3k for tools. not nearly enough for the
collection of tools i use in my business. i do have a commercial policy that
covers tools in vans. Nations Air, has already gave me the go ahead to get a
built set of elevators from vans. that will be nice not having to build
another set sine i don't have the jigs anymore. plus i'm painting and not
setup for riviting anymore.apparently my big lock and latch worked last
night, the camera equipment will be installed in the shop next weekend so the
employees don't know about it.
scott
tampa
i did hear a burgler was shot and killed by the homeowner, i wonder if he was
my guy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler verdict? |
>
>Without, I repeat, without starting a new oil cooler thread, which was the
>cooler won the debate? I seem to recall several testimonials on which
>cooler worked better, was built better, etc.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A N197AB Arizona
I paid a lot of attention to that debate before buying my oil cooler.
It all depends on which model RV, and which climate. RV-4s seem to
rarely have problems with high oil temp, in fact many builders report
they can't get the oil warm enough. RV-6/6As run a bit warmer than
the -4. The RV-8/8As are warmer yet, and the 200 hp IO-360 models
are the worst case, as they apparently spray oil on the bottom of the
pistons, which helps keeps the pistons cool, but puts a lot of heat
into the oil
The consensus seems to be that if you want the very best (cooling and
construction), and are willing to pay big bucks, go for a real
Stewart Warner, not the imitation "Stewart Warner style" Niagra that
Van sells. The Niagras are reputed to be a clone of an older SW
model, and seem to work OK for many people. The Positechs are
giving a lot of grief to many people (probably OK for a -4 though, or
a -6 in a cooler climate).
Supposedly, Positech is coming out with a new model, that they claim
will be much more efficient. Time will tell.
So, I figure RV-4 builders can use a Positech, -6/6A builders should
think about getting a Niagra (Van's "SW style" cooler), unless they
are in a hot climate, then they might want to go for a real SW.
RV-8/8As with 200 hp IO-360s are the worst case, and anyone building
one of those is asking for trouble to use anything but a real SW.
Many people have gone the cheap route at first, but most of them seem
to have thrown the cheap cooler away and spend the big bucks in the
end.
Greg Hale, a O-360 RV-8 builder in OK, used a larger Niagra than the
one Van sells. He used a Niagra 20006A, which he says is 50% bigger
than Van's cooler, and he was happy with it in 100+ temperatures.
If you are buying a SW, there are a couple of models to look at. The
10599R is a single pass cooler that many people are using. The 8432R
is almost exactly the same dimensions, but is a two pass cooler that
will do a bit better job of both cooling the oil and emptying your
wallet. You may find used coolers around, with the same numbers, but
a different suffix letter. These apparently cool the same, but have
thinner reservoirs on the ends (according to Pacific Oil Cooler
Service).
"Skid" at Pacific Oil Cooler Service is a good guy to talk to. 800-866-7335
http://www.oilcoolers.com/
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Lost web orders at Vans |
I just went to Van's web site, and saw a notice that they had
experienced a computer hard drive failure, and they lost a bunch of
recent web orders.
"Web orders placed on Wednesday November 28, 2001 starting with Web
order number W01-11283058 to W01-11303057 have been lost with the
hard drive failure.
If your Web Store order number was one of these numbers you will
need to reorder."
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Panel Shock Mounting Question |
In a message dated 12/2/2001 11:50:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
>
>
> Can anyone give me an idea how many Cessna type instrument panel shock
> mounts
> should be used for a six gauge cluster consisting of AS, AH, Alt.,
> MicroEncoder, DG and Navaid head? I haven't the foggiest idea where to
> obtain the data necessary to try to calculate this, and probably couldn't
> if
> I had the data. Thanks.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
>
Harry,
There was a thread on the list a few years back. I seem to recall that shock
mounting the instruments was not nessesary. You might check the archives.
Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "alan taylor" <midtn9(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB for sale |
hi nancy,
this is probably a dumb question ,but do you have the finishing kit?
im sure you are giving someone a good deal.thanks.alan
>From: "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB for sale
>Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:03:02 -0600
>
>
>I have an RV-6A, tip-up canopy, quickbuild for sale:
>
>Delivered in August, 2000. Includes the following:
>* Quickbuild fuselage and wings
>* Empennage about 1/2 completed, some work completed on the fuselage
>* 2 wing landing lights
>* Passenger and pilot steps
>* Dual vent system
>* Electric flaps, elevator and aileron trim systems
>* Capacitive fuel probes
>* Welded SS firewall box, recessed for CS propeller govenor/oil filter.
>
>$12,000. I live in Minneapolis.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cabin Venting, was:Keeping Warm |
--- Garry LeGare wrote:
> <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
>
> Mike do you have a date for the Issue you are referencing? I'm quite
> interested as I've already done a preliminary airframe tuft test and
> have
> isolated a number of areas on the RV6 that could use a little help.
> Garry "Casper"
That was the April, 1997 issue of Sport Aviation.
If you don't have/can't find/wife "put up" that issue, I can scan and
send you the applicable pages.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
In a message dated 12/2/2001 3:02:25 PM Central Standard Time,
jorear(at)mari.net writes:
>
> I think you will find that most homeowners policies will not cover your RV
> building project. Thus you will need to get a construction policy from
> Avemco or other specialty type insurance carriers. That's just the way it
> is unfortunately.
>
Ok as an insurance agent i will explain this.
Anything having to do with an aircraft isnt covered on a homeowners or
renters policy. You need a aviation builders risk policy.
2nd. Your homeowners or renters policy only gives in most cases 2500 dollars
for property off premise. Meaning out of your house. So if you have tools
in your hanger well u have 2500 in coverage.
3rd. If you own your hanger, you should have insurance and thats a
commercial policy and you just insure your tools under it. Here in wisconsin
you can insure a hanger for 40,000 in structure, 10,000 in contents and
1,000,000 of liabiity for 400 bucks a year.
Any questions please email me directly and i will help u out
chris wilcox
CGW insurance
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Micro-Air Radio is Sold |
Okay... enough already. The radio has been sold to Tom in Arizona. Thank
you all for your interest.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Breather fitting diameter? |
> I'm installing my Christen inverted oil system, and I've run into
> something strange. The Christen system takes 3/4" I.D breather hose,
> but the breather fitting on my IO-360-A1B6 is 5/8".
Kevin, I ran into the same problem. I went to my favorite auto parts store,
and "shopped" in the pre-formed heater hose area until I found exactly what
I needed. I don't know what car it was for, but it was 3/4 on one end, and
5/8 on the other. An added bonus was that the hose made a tight 180 degree
bend , which made it simpler to route to the tee. I cut a good bit of the
pre-formed hose off, and spliced it onto the regular breather hose with a
short length of aluminum tubing and a couple of clamps. Probably best to
get the highest quality rubber hose.
Do consider using the B&C vacuum pump base which is modified for inverted
oil pickup (instead of coming from the tee). It is expensive, but will
essentially eliminate the dead time on picking up oil pressure on going
inverted. (In the standard Christen set up, oil has to travel from the
breather port on the engine through the tee, and down to the oil valve
before pressure can be established. With the B&C setup, the line is always
full of oil, once the first inverted flight is made.)
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 57 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Baffle Plenum? |
Go to
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/doneaves@midsouth.rr.com/index.html
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffle Plenum?
>
> Don:
> Can you pleae include me on that email? Thanks very much.
>
> Don Eaves wrote:
> >
> >
> > I will send you a set of picks of my metal plenum.
> > Contact me off list and I will help you with the details.
> > Works Great and I would spend the time to do it again.
> > Don Eaves
> > RV6 80+- Hrs.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent. - RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Oil Temp Control |
I recently finished some experimentation on my oil cooler temperature
control that I thought might interest some of the listers. I have my oil
cooler mounted on the firewall with 3" SCAT tube coming off of the baffle
behind cylinder #3. This installation has always worked well, but in the
winter it works too well and I need to bring the temps up. I had a cockpit
controllable door on the bottom of the cooler that could completely close
off the air exiting the cooler, but even fully closed this was only good for
about a 10-20F rise in temp. So I installed a ground-adjustable sliding
door that covered the intake of the SCAT tube to make coarse adjustments
before takeoff. This adjustment allowed about 60F of extra range. This
worked well unless embarking on a long flight over differing temperature
zones - then I just made a coarse adjustment while refueling.
This year I wanted to make a wholesale change so I took the
cockpit-adjustable door off and set out to make the inlet adjustable. I
couldn't figure out a way to make the current door slide to my liking so I
set out to make a carburetor butterfly type arrangement in the scat tube.
This worked incredibly well. I have a pivot pin that rides at the top and
bottom of the SCAT flange with a 3" aluminum disc that rotates from full
open to full closed. I went through several iterations of articulation to
be absolutely sure the disc can't get stuck in the closed position.
On a recent trip from Boise to Santa Barbara and back we had an OAT range of
75F in SoCal to 15F at 15000' over Lake Tahoe and I was able to keep the oil
temp nailed on 185F without going near the limits on either end of cable
travel. I know from past experience that even on 100+ days I can keep the
temp in line with the intake fully open. Each "click" on the actuation
cable is good for about 3-5 degrees with a total range of about 70 degrees.
The next time I have the cowl off I'll get some pictures to post if anyone's
interested.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Oil Cooler verdict? |
I just replaced my Positech 4212 oil cooler with the new design model last
night and flew it today.
Positech exchanged the my old cooler from Van's for free. Visually, the
cooler has fewer, but wider rows. It is a bit early to tell (cool weather
and light rain), but it appears to cool about 10-25 deg better (again too
early to tell). On 70 deg days I was getting 210 deg cruise temps with the
old 4212 cooler. In addition to the new cooler, I positioned it about 1/2"
in higher on the rear baffle and closed the opening by another 3/8" on the
bottom. The full area of the cooler is exposed because there is a gap
between the baffle and the cooler. My suspicion is that the rear cylinder
fins are actually heating the oil rather cooling it.
Flying today in rain leads me to a question- Does anyone have experience
with defogging windshields? I am thinking about some simple holes in the
glareshield to provide convective air.
Cheers,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A, Tigard OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Old Sport Aviations |
Guys
If anyone is interested, I have listed on ebay a complete set of sport
aviations from 1960 to 1986
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1672561328
Thanks
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Oil Cooler verdict? |
Paul, it is time for me to buy a cooler too. So, yesterday, I searched the
archives. Yes, all the info was there, but the question is...
--- In September you were saying what a good cooler the Setrab was...have
you changed your mind? Did you have some trouble?
Thanks, John
RV8 FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler verdict?
General consensus seems to be that the rank order of cooling efficiency is:
Posi Tech, Niagara, Stewart Warner. They are all well built so that isn't an
issue, just the cooling efficiency. I changed out a Niagara for a Stewart
Warner and did a back to back comparison. Bottom line: I experienced a
slight improvement, 8-10 degrees under comparable conditions. You can read
the story and see the pics at...
http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm#Oil%20cooler
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL, 140 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler verdict?
>
> Without, I repeat, without starting a new oil cooler thread, which was the
> cooler won the debate? I seem to recall several testimonials on which
> cooler worked better, was built better, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | FS: Lightweight cover for RV-6 |
Listers-
I have a Lightweight cover for post '95 RV-6 models (Van's part # CANOPY
COVER LW-6/EXT $150). I purchased it in August of this a year and quickly
replaced it with a Bruce's cover since my plane was tied down outside for
extended periods. The cover is in like new condition since it was only used
for one month. I added an extention to the front strap to make it easier to
install (can be easily removed).
I would consider this an ideal travel cover but not for full time use. My RV
is currently enjoying some temporaty hangar space this winter courtesy of a
builder who is 90% done - 90% to go! I am keeping the heavy duty one just in
case I find myself tied down again.
Price: $100 plus $5 shipping
thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A, Tigard OR
robin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Duct Blocking Dipstick |
Been there, done that. I too had to move my duct intake to give access to
the dipstick. At least I didn't have to move my oil cooler as well. Next
surprise - with the cowl on and that 3" duct in the way, I couldn't get my
arm in to properly insert the right hand piano hinge wire attaching the top
rear of the cowl. I had to split it into two segments so I wouldn't have to
reach as far. Beware removing ANY component from the engine, like a mag,
etc. while installing something else. It's pretty crowded and unforgiving
back there.
Aside from the advantage of being able to build a butterfly valve to control
oil temperatures (an excellant idea that I have copied), it's hard to think
of any good reason to mount the cooler on the firewall. I'd think twice
about doing it again. It is interesting that Van's only sell a mounting kit
to mount the cooler on the firewall, yet I think the RV-7 mounts it on the
baffles (going from memory here - saw it at Oshkosh last summer)
Curt
>
> I hereby place my name as candidate for the dum dum award. Mounted the oil
> cooler on the firewall of my 6. Installed the 3" flange on the back wall
of
> the baffle and connected the duct tube. Nice straight run, looking good,
> feeling good....... Oh X*#X&!!!! Quick, get the dipstick tube out of that
> dusty old box on the shelf. Will it screw in? Not today my friend. My nice
> clean installation was directly in the path of the dipstick tube. 5 hours
> later I now have a rear baffle with a patch riveted on and 4 extra holes
in
> the firewall where the oil cooler was bolted before I had to move it.
> dum dum dum. Oh well, the cooler is installed and with a little luck this
> bird should be flying late spring/early summer.
> Bill
> RV 6 IO 320
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler verdict? |
Well, two answers to this. After getting much heat from people saying that
I should change to an "aircraft" oil cooler I started to agree. After all,
Von Alexander's (rest his soul) engine failed from a loss of oil, an he had
a Setrab cooler.
Also, my oil temps are too high. 200 degrees in 30 degree OAT. Plus I've
had cooling problems with the CHT's. Sooooo...I have determined that my
baffles are pieces of S#@T. The front area doesn't fit worth a crap, and
the baffle seal is impossible to get to seal against the cowl everywhere. I
am going to build all new baffles, and a plenum chamber, so I thought it
would be a good time to change out the cooler to an "aircraft" cooler while
I am at it. Probably would last me longer anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Cooler verdict?
>
> Paul, it is time for me to buy a cooler too. So, yesterday, I searched the
> archives. Yes, all the info was there, but the question is...
>
> --- In September you were saying what a good cooler the Setrab was...have
> you changed your mind? Did you have some trouble?
>
> Thanks, John
> RV8 FWF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Old Sport Aviations |
> If anyone is interested, I have listed on ebay a complete set of sport
> aviations from 1960 to 1986
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1672561328
Just for curiosity's sake Joe, can you let us know what they fetch in the
end?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Subject: | AeroShell Oil Recall |
Recently, there was some talk on the list about the recall of some
AeroShell oils for contamination. Here is a list of the case and bottle
numbers being recalled. I hope this comes through as I sent it. If not
ANN has the list on today's newsletter. They are at
http://www.aero-news.net/
Now I'm off to the airport to look at my oil bottles.
Eric
Product Bottle ID Case ID Package
80 EWA012022310051 WR100501 Quarts
100 EWA011442610051 WR100501 Quarts
100 EWA011442610081 WR100801 Quarts
100 EWA012157211051 WR110501 Quarts
W 65 EWA0111736207201 WR092001 Quarts
W 80 EWA011609009071 WR090701 Quarts
W 80 EWA012028310081 WR100801 Quarts
W 80 EWA012240511071 WR110701 Quarts
W 80 EWA012157211061 WR110601 Quarts
W 100 EWA012157310231 WR102301 Quarts
W 100 EWA012322711071 WR110701 Quarts
W 100 Plus EWA011943810021 WR100201 Quarts
W 100 Plus EWA012421710231 WR102301 Quarts
W 100 Plus EWA012448411051 WR110501 Quarts
W 15W-50 EWA011481809211 WR092101 Quarts
W 15W-50 EWA10011481810021 WR100201 Quarts
W 15W-50 EWA0118136100401 WR100401 Gallons
W 15W-50 EWC011813610051 WR100501 Quarts
W 15W-50 EWA012028610231 WR102301 Quarts
W 15W-50 EWA02357811131 WR111301 Quarts
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Subject: | AeroShell Recall |
Here is a better link to the AeroShell recall:
http://www.cessna.org/aeroshell_recall.html
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler verdict? |
POSITECH-1800367-1374 TALK TO BRIAN-SALES-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Nav antenna location |
From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
I mounted the Van's foil strip Nav antenna in the right wingtip as far
outboard as it would go and as far forward as it would go.
There is a BNC bulkhead connector mounted in the forward tip of the last
rib for quick disconnect. The BNC connector needed a good ground to
the airframe.
I cut the foil longer than I needed so that I had something to trim for
tuning with the VSWR meter. Once the antenna was tuned I laid a layer
of glass over it.
The performance on my NAV antenna is quite good. I was fortunate to
have an RF engineer available for tuning, and I believe that made a big
difference.
--
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Breather fitting diameter? |
In a message dated 12/2/2001 1:31:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
>
> I'm installing my Christen inverted oil system, and I've run into
> something strange. The Christen system takes 3/4" I.D breather hose,
> but the breather fitting on my IO-360-A1B6 is 5/8".
>
> The Christen manual calls for a Lyc. PN 71140 breather fitting, which
> matches my Lyc. parts catalog. There is no PN on the breather
> fitting. I suspect I've got a non-standard breather fitting. Could
> someone please confirm what size hose a standard Lyc. breather
> fitting takes?
>
> Thanks,
>
Your local auto parts store will have the 3/4" hose X 5/8" NPT in a cad
plated steel fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Good news and bad news. |
In a message dated 12/2/2001 9:17:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
efortner(at)vnet.net writes:
> >
> > congradulations guys, man i envey you guys. i bet you want get much sleep
> > tonight, knowing that that rocket is just sitting there needing to be
> riden.
> > keep us updated on upcoming flight testing and trips.
> > scott
> > tampa
> > i got broken into again last night, now i;m convienced someone has a key.
> > 4 times in 2 weeks, hope i catch that bastard.
> >
>
>
One of the Rocket boys from Bakersfield (George Moss) manufactures an
electronic transmitting surveillance unit that is set off by either motion or
sound, when this thing goes off it transmits directly to the Police station
thus alerting them to area being monitored. Something like that might bust
that bastard that is steeling from you. Man I sure wish I could come up with
an idea like that!
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Lightspeed Headsets |
I am looking to buy a set of Lightspeed headsets for my RV6A. The three
available are:
25XL $500 25-28db of active cancellation
20XL $400 22-24db of active cancellation
15XL $300 16-18db of active cancellation
There seems to be quite a difference between the 15XL and the 20XL that is
probably worth the $100. What I am wondering about is if the $100 for the
3db difference is "worth it." They are identical other wise except for the
inclusion of an extra "ultrasoft" earcup for the 25XL.
Comments?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Warning - Exercise your Artificial Horizon! |
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
12/03/2001 01:27:54 PM
Listers,
I recently returned my factory-new (vacuum) artificial horizon to Century
Instruments for repair. I had installed the unit in my -4, but it never
worked. After accumulating about 45 hours on the plane I finally removed
it to get it fixed. This morning, Century informed me that the bearings
had gone bad because the lubrication drained from them during a prolonged
period of inactivity. Indeed, I had purchased and installed the horizon
slightly more than one year before I first started the engine (and vacuum
system). According to Century, any more than 6 months of storage will
destroy the bearings. Now, I must pay $265 to repair the unit.
When I questioned Century, they explained that paperwork included with each
unit sold provides directions for "exercising" every 6 months using a
vacuum cleaner as a suction source. Unfortunately, I don't remember that
critical piece of paper. I wish you all better luck.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Nav antenna location |
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:52:15 PM
Hey John, not that we all don't have our own RF engineer (wife got me one
for my birthday), but, did you happen to take a measurement of the final
length once tuned? Might be good for the archives as a point of reference.
Eric Henson
"John Allen" (at)matronics.com on 12/03/2001 11:57:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Nav antenna location
I mounted the Van's foil strip Nav antenna in the right wingtip as far
outboard as it would go and as far forward as it would go.
There is a BNC bulkhead connector mounted in the forward tip of the last
rib for quick disconnect. The BNC connector needed a good ground to
the airframe.
I cut the foil longer than I needed so that I had something to trim for
tuning with the VSWR meter. Once the antenna was tuned I laid a layer
of glass over it.
The performance on my NAV antenna is quite good. I was fortunate to
have an RF engineer available for tuning, and I believe that made a big
difference.
--
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Headsets |
ross
try their new cross country anr headsets before you plunk down all that cash.
275 a set and i doubt you can tell the differance when your wearing them. it
also has a mic gain adjustment for better control, battery saver feature, if
you leave them on they go off automatically, stero or mono, duel volume
control, comfortable, light, carring case, etc. i love mine.
scott
tampa
gonna get me another set for my passenger
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Headsets |
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:56:50 PM
Keep in mind the width of the head piece. If you sit high in the saddle it
may scratch your canopy. The Lightspeed "cross country" has a thinner head
pad thingie which would fit between the canopy and my noggin. I've heard
good things about it. Price is right as well.
Eric
"Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 12/03/2001 01:16:06
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Headsets
I am looking to buy a set of Lightspeed headsets for my RV6A. The three
available are:
25XL $500 25-28db of active cancellation
20XL $400 22-24db of active cancellation
15XL $300 16-18db of active cancellation
There seems to be quite a difference between the 15XL and the 20XL that is
probably worth the $100. What I am wondering about is if the $100 for the
3db difference is "worth it." They are identical other wise except for the
inclusion of an extra "ultrasoft" earcup for the 25XL.
Comments?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Lightspeed Headsets |
Oh man, you wouldn't ask that if you've ever worn an "Ultrasoft" cup.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Headsets
>
> I am looking to buy a set of Lightspeed headsets for my RV6A. The three
> available are:
>
> 25XL $500 25-28db of active cancellation
> 20XL $400 22-24db of active cancellation
> 15XL $300 16-18db of active cancellation
>
> There seems to be quite a difference between the 15XL and the 20XL that is
> probably worth the $100. What I am wondering about is if the $100 for the
> 3db difference is "worth it." They are identical other wise except for
the
> inclusion of an extra "ultrasoft" earcup for the 25XL.
>
> Comments?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | gear leg corrosion |
I'm doing the 2-piece wheel pant and gear leg fairing upgrade now with the
plane up on jacks for the last 2 weeks... last night, I removed the old,
molded-in-place, fiberglass fairings and shimmy-dampener strips, a design
which incorporated some of that "Great-Stuff" expanding foam. Now I, too,
own an RV with rust, pits and corrosion on the main gear legs. That's really
disgusting. On one side I saw trapped water dripping out of the foam when I
sliced into it with the Dremel wheel.
I plan to sand, polish, prime and enamel (Rust-Oleum) the Whitman rod gear,
hopefully sealing it from the elements. As you might all expect, I am
wavering between 2 opinions about replacing the leg stiffener components. I
doubt I will use wood again, but the fiberglass rod option has a certain
hi-tech appeal. Maybe I should just balance the wheel pants and forget it.
Stiffeners might not be that difficult to retrofit beneath the Team Rocket
leg fairings, if it turns out later that I need them. I never flew the plane
without stiffeners, so I have no old data of ny own to fall back on.
As usual, I was wondering what the concensus on the List (boy, is that an
oxymoron) might be...
Bill B
RV-6A, 200 hrs and holding
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | gear leg corrosion |
SNIP...
last night, I removed the old,
molded-in-place, fiberglass fairings and shimmy-dampener strips, a design
which incorporated some of that "Great-Stuff" expanding foam. Now I, too,
own an RV with rust, pits and corrosion on the main gear legs. That's
really
disgusting. On one side I saw trapped water dripping out of the foam when I
sliced into it with the Dremel wheel.
SNIP
Bill,
Where did you use the "Great Stuff" expanding foam? And, did you use it on
bear metal, or was the gear leg primed and painted prior to using this
stuff?
Did the wood stiffners play a part in the rust problem, or do you attribute
it completely to the expanding foam?
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: gear leg corrosion |
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
12/03/2001 03:16:03 PM
Hi Bill,
I have a -4 with the long gear legs, 180 hp and C. S. prop. I never
installed the gear leg stiffeners partly because I was lazy, and partly
because I was not convinced they are necessary. To date, I have about 50
hours on the plane and have not found any evidence to suggest installing
the stiffeners. I have not (yet!) had any shimmy or other problems. So
far, all but one landing have been made on pavement, with the single
exception on gravel. I have not "balanced" the wheel pants (whatever that
means). A -6A may be different enough, however, to render this single data
point useless.
Good luck,
Dean
RV-4
Arlington, MA
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 12/03/01 02:27 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: gear leg corrosion
|
I'm doing the 2-piece wheel pant and gear leg fairing upgrade now with the
plane up on jacks for the last 2 weeks... last night, I removed the old,
molded-in-place, fiberglass fairings and shimmy-dampener strips, a design
which incorporated some of that "Great-Stuff" expanding foam. Now I, too,
own an RV with rust, pits and corrosion on the main gear legs. That's
really
disgusting. On one side I saw trapped water dripping out of the foam when
I
sliced into it with the Dremel wheel.
I plan to sand, polish, prime and enamel (Rust-Oleum) the Whitman rod gear,
hopefully sealing it from the elements. As you might all expect, I am
wavering between 2 opinions about replacing the leg stiffener components.
I
doubt I will use wood again, but the fiberglass rod option has a certain
hi-tech appeal. Maybe I should just balance the wheel pants and forget it.
Stiffeners might not be that difficult to retrofit beneath the Team Rocket
leg fairings, if it turns out later that I need them. I never flew the
plane
without stiffeners, so I have no old data of ny own to fall back on.
As usual, I was wondering what the concensus on the List (boy, is that an
oxymoron) might be...
Bill B
RV-6A, 200 hrs and holding
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 12/02/01 |
http://www.cessna.org/aeroshell_recall.html
is a website for the aeroshell recall
W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: gear leg corrosion |
> Where did you use the "Great Stuff" expanding foam? And, did you use it on
> bear metal, or was the gear leg primed and painted prior to using this
> stuff?
>
> Did the wood stiffners play a part in the rust problem, or do you attribute
> it completely to the expanding foam?
>
Good questions, Jim. I should have addressed that. The legs were done in
this manner, as I recall:
Legs degreased and sprayed with 2 part Randolph epoxy primer.
Wood stiffeners made from window trim molding and glued to legs with Bondo.
Legs and wood parts wrapped together with 3 inch fiberglass tape and wet out
with West epoxy resin.
Expanding foam sprayed on to back of legs and allowed to expand and set.
Foam sanded into appropriate airfoil shape behind legs.
Additional epoxy resin & glass cloth applied over foam to create streamlined
fairing.
Foam continues to expand for several days, bulges and distorts the aft half
of the airfoil shape, requiring endless iterations of sanding-through and
then repairing the thin, outer fiberglass shell, but that's not really
relevant to the story...
Overly thin fiberglass fairings crack chord-wise mid-span on both legs with
first hard landings, builder decides to "live with it."
3 years later, builder learns he can go faster with 2-pc. wheel pants, takes
diamond cutoff wheel to the old fiberglass monstrosities encasing his gear
legs... the rest, as they say, is Review of Systems and PMHx.
-=Bill B.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: gear leg corrosion |
> Did the wood stiffners play a part in the rust problem, or do you attribute
> it completely to the expanding foam?
>
Forgot to address this: the rust and pitting appears in wide streaks down
the legs, seems to be under both the areas of foam contact in the back and
wood in the front. Note that a complete layer of glass/epoxy separated the
steel from the foam. The wood was touching metal, but for the primer coat
and some bondo in places. Bondo appears to have been protective, but not so
the primer.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
KYLE-thanks -TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <komisar(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB for sale |
Nancy,
Do you have a finish kit that is with everything else?
Marty in Nashville
----- Original Message -----
From: Nancy Jean Burkholder <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB for sale
>
> I have an RV-6A, tip-up canopy, quickbuild for sale:
>
> Delivered in August, 2000. Includes the following:
> * Quickbuild fuselage and wings
> * Empennage about 1/2 completed, some work completed on the fuselage
> * 2 wing landing lights
> * Passenger and pilot steps
> * Dual vent system
> * Electric flaps, elevator and aileron trim systems
> * Capacitive fuel probes
> * Welded SS firewall box, recessed for CS propeller govenor/oil filter.
>
> $12,000. I live in Minneapolis.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: ProSeal - What's all the fuss? |
--- Jim Bower wrote:
> I'm so relieved.
>
Wait until you get to the canopy.
;)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
Subject: | New RV10 Info with Pics |
Posted today!
Scroll to the bottom of the page
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Preston" <dprestonsr1(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Headsets |
I ordered 20XL & Bose at same time. Used both in Citation for a week and
sent the Bose back. Not $600 difference to me. The 20XL is FINE!!!!!
Doug
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Lightspeed Headsets
>
> Oh man, you wouldn't ask that if you've ever worn an "Ultrasoft" cup.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Headsets
>
>
> >
> > I am looking to buy a set of Lightspeed headsets for my RV6A. The three
> > available are:
> >
> > 25XL $500 25-28db of active cancellation
> > 20XL $400 22-24db of active cancellation
> > 15XL $300 16-18db of active cancellation
> >
> > There seems to be quite a difference between the 15XL and the 20XL that
is
> > probably worth the $100. What I am wondering about is if the $100 for
the
> > 3db difference is "worth it." They are identical other wise except for
> the
> > inclusion of an extra "ultrasoft" earcup for the 25XL.
> >
> > Comments?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Subject: | Re: gear leg corrosion |
Hi Bill,
I only have about 10 hours on my RV-6A and about 40 landings, so I might not
be much help. I did not install stiffeners on the mains or the nose gear
leg. So far I have not had a shimmy at any speed.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: gear leg corrosion
>
> I'm doing the 2-piece wheel pant and gear leg fairing upgrade now with the
> plane up on jacks for the last 2 weeks... last night, I removed the old,
> molded-in-place, fiberglass fairings and shimmy-dampener strips, a design
> which incorporated some of that "Great-Stuff" expanding foam. Now I, too,
> own an RV with rust, pits and corrosion on the main gear legs. That's
really
> disgusting. On one side I saw trapped water dripping out of the foam when
I
> sliced into it with the Dremel wheel.
>
> I plan to sand, polish, prime and enamel (Rust-Oleum) the Whitman rod
gear,
> hopefully sealing it from the elements. As you might all expect, I am
> wavering between 2 opinions about replacing the leg stiffener components.
I
> doubt I will use wood again, but the fiberglass rod option has a certain
> hi-tech appeal. Maybe I should just balance the wheel pants and forget
it.
> Stiffeners might not be that difficult to retrofit beneath the Team Rocket
> leg fairings, if it turns out later that I need them. I never flew the
plane
> without stiffeners, so I have no old data of ny own to fall back on.
>
> As usual, I was wondering what the concensus on the List (boy, is that an
> oxymoron) might be...
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A, 200 hrs and holding
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV-3 tipover canopy? |
Greetings,
I got a look at Randy Compton's (extremely yellow) RV-3 today, and have to
admit that the tipover canopy has some advantages. The visibility is
excellent, and it allows a better option for rollover protection than the
slider. It also looks like there's a lot more room to get in and out of the
plane with the tipover as compared to the small opening of the slider. The
biggest negative would be starting from scratch on the canopy frame, since
my current project came with the sliding canopy frame almost complete. I
expect to have to replace the actual canopy either way, perhaps with a 1/4"
canopy from Todd.
My question is for anyone who's built a tipover canopy in an RV-3. Does
Van's supply any of the canopy frame prefabricated, or is it strictly a
do-it-yourself project like the original slider? I've sent Van's two
e-mails now for info on the tipover canopy, with no replies so far. Does
anyone out there have a new RV-3B kit? I'd really like to know what's
available in the way of fairings too.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-3 tipover canopy? |
As far as the room issue goes, I think I'm qualified to say that unless
you're really high on the bubba scale, you shouldn't have any problem getting
in and out of the slider configuration due to the small opening. I could see
someone with absolutely no upper body strength having a tough time doing the
forearm press maneuver that's required to lift yourself straight out, but
that little exercise would be required no matter whether it's a slider or a
tip-over.
In the short (and very missed) 7 months and 125 hours worth of flying that I
owned a slider RV-3, I never regretted the canopy configuration. OK... there
was that one time when the knob came off the latch mechanism and I was stuck
inside for 20 minutes while I disassembled the thing with my leatherman...
maybe then I might have been dreaming of an *open* cockpit. :-)
Rod Woodard
RV-3 #11339 empennage
Fairly high on the bubba scale, my own self!
In a message dated 12/3/01 9:40:54 PM Mountain Standard Time, n174kt(at)home.com
writes:
> I got a look at Randy Compton's (extremely yellow) RV-3 today, and have to
> admit that the tipover canopy has some advantages. The visibility is
> excellent, and it allows a better option for rollover protection than the
> slider. It also looks like there's a lot more room to get in and out of the
> plane with the tipover as compared to the small opening of the slider. The
> biggest negative would be starting from scratch on the canopy frame, since
> my current project came with the sliding canopy frame almost complete. I
> expect to have to replace the actual canopy either way, perhaps with a 1/4"
> canopy from Todd.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 tipover canopy? |
I was told I could buy the frame from Vans.
Of course I went ahead and made it myself :)
Finn
Russell Duffy wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy"
>
> Greetings,
>
> I got a look at Randy Compton's (extremely yellow) RV-3 today, and have to
> admit that the tipover canopy has some advantages. The visibility is
> excellent, and it allows a better option for rollover protection than the
> slider. It also looks like there's a lot more room to get in and out of the
> plane with the tipover as compared to the small opening of the slider. The
> biggest negative would be starting from scratch on the canopy frame, since
> my current project came with the sliding canopy frame almost complete. I
> expect to have to replace the actual canopy either way, perhaps with a 1/4"
> canopy from Todd.
>
> My question is for anyone who's built a tipover canopy in an RV-3. Does
> Van's supply any of the canopy frame prefabricated, or is it strictly a
> do-it-yourself project like the original slider? I've sent Van's two
> e-mails now for info on the tipover canopy, with no replies so far. Does
> anyone out there have a new RV-3B kit? I'd really like to know what's
> available in the way of fairings too.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE
> RV-3, 10751, Rotary engine project
>
----------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Couple of questions.
1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
lead and the mag contact?
2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
Dan
s/n 81243
Dang near there.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Scratched Canopy!!! (Att: Alex Peterson) |
Sandpaper got to close to the canopy and scratched the
canopy!!!! :
(
Searching the archives I have found a recommendation
for Micro-Mesh by Paul Besing. Then I found Alex
Petersons note from March 23, 2001 for a Scratch Off
System that is 873 times better than the Micro-Mesh.
Who makes the Scratch Off system and where can you buy
it at?
Dan DeNeal
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
The P-lead will show grounded any time the points are closed (most of the
time). Check the ground wire on the switch, to see if the switch is really
grounding the P-leads.
You should have some kind of current limiter between alternator output and
the buss (is that what you were asking?).
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of TwoAviators
Subject: RV-List: what the heck?
Couple of questions.
1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
lead and the mag contact?
2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
Dan
s/n 81243
Dang near there.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: The best part about building an RV |
Jim : Well said, I could not agree with you more. The friends and people
you meet are just the GREATEST bunch of people. If you need anything all you
have to do is ask. Swapping adventure stories, and building heartaches and
accomplishments with someone that has been there done that or will be there
is very rewarding.
Waiting for the RV10 Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wil Ramsey" <wilr(at)strato.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: what the heck? |
Yes, without the fuse on the output side a short on the other side between
fuse and alt. would leave your system unprotected.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: what the heck?
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> Couple of questions.
>
> 1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
> the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
> lead and the mag contact?
>
> 2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
> voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
> diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
>
> Dan
> s/n 81243
> Dang near there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: what the heck? |
Is the engine grounded?
>From: "Wil Ramsey" <wilr(at)strato.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: what the heck?
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:25:08 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Wil Ramsey"
>
>Yes, without the fuse on the output side a short on the other side between
>fuse and alt. would leave your system unprotected.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: what the heck?
>
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
> >
> > Couple of questions.
> >
> > 1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
> > the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
> > lead and the mag contact?
> >
> > 2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
> > voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
> > diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
> >
> > Dan
> > s/n 81243
> > Dang near there.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: what the heck? |
Regarding your mag P-lead issue... If you're using Bendix mags (S-20 type
anyway), check to see that the lead is actually touching the contact inside
the mag. You may have to bend the spring contact up to touch the lead end
that threads into the mag housing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Passenger Warning Plate |
I think it was at Sun'N'Fun a couple of years ago that
I saw a passenger warning sign in an rv that read
something like this but can't remember all of it.
"This aircraft is amateur built and does not comply
with the Federal Saftety Regulation for "Standard
Aircraft. But Noah's Ark was built by an amateur ?????
It was something like that. Does anyone know whose
plane this was on or remember the wording?
Dan DeNeal
rv6a
Hoopeston, Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
I have a -4 with long gear. I believe gear length was increased in the early
90s because builders began putting 180HP engines in the -4. Early -4 with
160HP typically used 68inch prop with short legs. 180HP typically needs
70-72 inch prop. Short legs may handle this but requires care.
jmw
-----Original Message-----
From: SSPRING83(at)aol.com [mailto:SSPRING83(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear
Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
rv4 vs the short gear? I have a -4 that was built in 92 and am assuming that
it is the short gear that I hear you guys talk about. It would seem that
while the long gear would offer a greater amount of ground clearance for the
prop tips it would also detract from the forward visability that you need on
takeoff or landing rollout. What is the advantage of having your nose
sitting higher in the air?. Since you have to get the tail off the ground
anyway in taking off and assume a slightly tail low attitude what is to be
gained? Appreciate any feed back you can offer on this guys. Thanks
George Spring rv-4 4375J
Chester, Conn.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Passenger Warning Plate |
I saw one that Read something like...
"This aircraft does not meet nor comply with Federal Standards... My
Standards and Quality far exceed the Federal Minimum Safety Standards."
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Passenger Warning Plate
>
> I think it was at Sun'N'Fun a couple of years ago that
> I saw a passenger warning sign in an rv that read
> something like this but can't remember all of it.
>
> "This aircraft is amateur built and does not comply
> with the Federal Saftety Regulation for "Standard
> Aircraft. But Noah's Ark was built by an amateur ?????
>
> It was something like that. Does anyone know whose
> plane this was on or remember the wording?
>
> Dan DeNeal
> rv6a
> Hoopeston, Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Passenger Warning Plate |
"...and the Titanic was built by Professionals.
They don't build factory aircraft which meet my high personal standards."
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Passenger Warning Plate |
WARNING: THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATURE BUILT AND DOES NOT MEET THE FAA SAFTEY
GUIDLINES. IT FAR EXCEEDS THEM. UNLIKE THE SPACE SHUTTLE CHALLENGER
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: The tools I have and those I wish I had... |
I bought a fairly inexpensive benchtop Sears bandsaw. It is variable between
very slow and screaming fast. (I don't know the actual numbers). The on/off
switch rotates to pick the RPM and then you pull the switch out to turn it
on. It's a VERY useful tool.
Rod Woodard
RV-3 #11339 VS rear spar today
Northern Colorado
In a message dated 11/28/01 2:26:36 PM Mountain Standard Time,
pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com writes:
> Bandsaw - To my disappointment, I was too cheap to buy one. I used the one
> at my work. Unfortunately, I wasted a lot of time either using a hacksaw
> in my basement, or travelling back and forth to work. Part of my
> reluctance in buying a bandsaw (besides the price) was that I could not
> find a bench-top unit with a good speed range. Before I build another
> plane I will definitely find and buy one.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: The tools I have and those I wish I had... |
>
>I bought a fairly inexpensive benchtop Sears bandsaw. It is variable
>between
>very slow and screaming fast. (I don't know the actual numbers). The on/off
>switch rotates to pick the RPM and then you pull the switch out to turn it
>on. It's a VERY useful tool.
>
>Rod Woodard
>RV-3 #11339 VS rear spar today
>Northern Colorado
>
Rod,
Oh, by the way....nice to see you back on the list!
Anyway, I have the same model band saw. I got quite a lot of use from it
but it is a bit flimsy for long term use. One of the drive wheels inside
has a rubber surface for the saw to ride on and provide a grip to it. It
pretty much crumbled and came off. Also, the motor controller had a bad SCR
or cold solder joint somewhere and would randomly cut off. This was
repaired via warranty. I might have to pursue another warranty claim for
the drive wheel. Still, the unit works great when in working order and the
speed control is terrific. Still, I would not expect it to last much longer
than the duration of an RV project with almost daily use. When it comes to
power tools, you truly get what you pay for.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
269 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Jantzi" <terry(at)iwantarocket.com> |
Subject: | Tom Martin's HRII |
Tom Martin has his freshly painted Harmon Rocket back from the paint shop. I
have pictures at my web site below. Click on the "Rocket Pix" button. A
really good looking machine.
Terry
F1 Rocket "U" kit
Kitchener ON.
http://www.iwantarocket.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Fromm" <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | How to Rivet Bottom of Trim Tab Spar |
Listers,
I hope I'm not overlooking something obvious, but I'm afraid I might be
because I can't find any mention of this in the archives or on the web sites
I've visited and George doesn't address it in the video. The question is:
"What's the best way to set the rivets on the bottom of the elevator trim
tab?"
It would be easy to get at them to buck before bending the trailing edge of
the trim tab, but then I'm afraid you would have trouble getting the
v-blocks in there to bend the tabs with the 607 spar in the way. And if you
bent the trailing edge and the tabs first, then it seems it would be
difficult to pull the skin apart far enough again to reach in there to buck
without stressing the skin at the trailing edge bend. I suppose a longeron
yoke might help, but I don't have one and don't intend to spend the money
since I'm going the quickbuild route and don't think I'll need one.
What am I missing?
Jack Fromm
RV-8, 81120, N138JF(reserved)
Cockeysville, MD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
Thanks for the canopy comments. I think I made great progress today with a
call to Van's. Rather than bugging them with a dozen questions, I asked
about getting a new set of plans for the -3B. As it turns out, there's a
long forgotten (by me anyway) option to get one set of updated plans and
builders manual for a very small charge, $40 in the case of the RV-3B.
Having a new set of plans will allow me to look up my own answers for most
questions. It will also allow me the option of retrofitting some of the
later features into my 20 year old project where possible.
As for the tipover canopy frame availability, I didn't get an absolute
answer, and didn't really pursue it when I found out that I could get
updated plans so cheap. I also asked them to include a list of materials for
a new RV-3B kit, which should give me part numbers and an idea of
availability of the frame, fairings and anything else I might need.
For now, the canopy decision is just one of a long list of un-decided
options.
Cheers,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project, "B" retrofit wings on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to Rivet Bottom of Trim Tab Spar |
Jack,
I just recently finished the trim tab on my RV4. I method that I used
was to bend the trailing edge and end tabs first.
Then I aligned the trim tab spar to the skin and drilled it to the bottom of
the skin. I then had my son lightly spread the
skin apart and back rivited it into place after dimpling. This placed no
real strain on the edge of the trim tab skin. The
finished tab looks great, only took one skin to complete. Must be lucky.
Ross Scroggs
RV-4, #3911, Emp, Starting Wings.
Conyers, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Fromm <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: How to Rivet Bottom of Trim Tab Spar
>
> Listers,
>
> I hope I'm not overlooking something obvious, but I'm afraid I might be
> because I can't find any mention of this in the archives or on the web
sites
> I've visited and George doesn't address it in the video. The question is:
> "What's the best way to set the rivets on the bottom of the elevator trim
> tab?"
>
> It would be easy to get at them to buck before bending the trailing edge
of
> the trim tab, but then I'm afraid you would have trouble getting the
> v-blocks in there to bend the tabs with the 607 spar in the way. And if
you
> bent the trailing edge and the tabs first, then it seems it would be
> difficult to pull the skin apart far enough again to reach in there to
buck
> without stressing the skin at the trailing edge bend. I suppose a
longeron
> yoke might help, but I don't have one and don't intend to spend the money
> since I'm going the quickbuild route and don't think I'll need one.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Jack Fromm
> RV-8, 81120, N138JF(reserved)
> Cockeysville, MD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: The best part about building an RV |
Jim,
If you weigh less than about 220 and find your way to Iowa and I will fix
your problem. I dont find myself in St Louey very often, but I if I do and
I remember, I will also fix your problem. Ya see, I plan to wear out a
couple RV's in my career and I wont be buildin one so I gotta keep the
builders motivated!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: The best part about building an RV
>
> One of these days I'll get to ride in an RV,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Scratched Canopy!!! (Att: Alex Peterson) |
> Who makes the Scratch Off system and where can you buy
> it at?
Aircraft Spruce
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 61 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | electronic gurus |
To all you electronic guru's; here's what I want for christmas and I'm hoping
someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my house. I
wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on the
heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine, take
a
morning fly, and be back at work by 10:00.
Spoiled? Life of luxury? You betcha!!!
I'm thinking of a device that will respond to a radio, or better yet a phone or
cell phone; "Thank you for calling Andy's airplane, press one to start the
heater, press two to clean the canopy and drag me out of the hangar..." OK,
I'll settle on the heater.
This technology exists all over. 5 clicks on the radio turns on the runway
lights. I've just never seen it applied in this manner.
Who here can give us a merry Christmas.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: The tools I have and those I wish I had... |
>Anyway, I have the same model band saw.
>Still, I would not expect it to last much longer
>than the duration of an RV project with almost daily use. When it comes to
>power tools, you truly get what you pay for.
>
>Brian Denk
Brian,
Seeing as I am teetering on buying one of these same saws, the question
comes to mind - is there a better alternative for a bench top bandsaw? I'm
loathe to take up my limited space with a floor standing unit.
Jim Daniels
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Passenger Warning Plate |
Dan,
We went to Sun-n-Fun together last year and I have a similiar placard in my
RV-6. It says:
PASSENGER WARNING
This aricraft is amateur built and does not comply with Federal safety
regulations.
PASSENGER COMFORT
Remember that Noah's ark was amateur built, unlike the HMS Titanic which
complied with Federal Safety regulations.
Randy Pflanzer
N417G - RV-6 (sold)
N524RP - RV-7 (building horizontal stab)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Passenger Warning Plate
>
> I think it was at Sun'N'Fun a couple of years ago that
> I saw a passenger warning sign in an rv that read
> something like this but can't remember all of it.
>
> "This aircraft is amateur built and does not comply
> with the Federal Saftety Regulation for "Standard
> Aircraft. But Noah's Ark was built by an amateur ?????
>
> It was something like that. Does anyone know whose
> plane this was on or remember the wording?
>
> Dan DeNeal
> rv6a
> Hoopeston, Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
Why not just buy a cheap timer that plugs into a wall socket. Set it to
turn on at 6:00 am and off at 10:00 am. If it's nice, go fly. If not, no
real damage done as long as you fly often enough to keep the moisture out of
the crankcase.
Randy Pflanzer
N534RP - RV-7A - Empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: electronic gurus
>
> To all you electronic guru's; here's what I want for christmas and I'm
hoping
> someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
>
> I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my
house. I
> wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on
the
> heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine,
take a
> morning fly, and be back at work by 10:00.
>
> Spoiled? Life of luxury? You betcha!!!
>
> I'm thinking of a device that will respond to a radio, or better yet a
phone or
> cell phone; "Thank you for calling Andy's airplane, press one to start
the
> heater, press two to clean the canopy and drag me out of the hangar..."
OK,
> I'll settle on the heater.
>
> This technology exists all over. 5 clicks on the radio turns on the
runway
> lights. I've just never seen it applied in this manner.
>
> Who here can give us a merry Christmas.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
I am not sure, however, I may have seen something on the Reiff site. I believe
the
device uses a phone pager to turn on the heater.
Art Glaser
Andy wrote:
>
> To all you electronic guru's; here's what I want for christmas and I'm hoping
> someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
>
> I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my house.
I
> wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on the
> heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine, take
a
> morning fly, and be back at work by 10:00.
>
> Spoiled? Life of luxury? You betcha!!!
>
> I'm thinking of a device that will respond to a radio, or better yet a phone
or
> cell phone; "Thank you for calling Andy's airplane, press one to start the
> heater, press two to clean the canopy and drag me out of the hangar..." OK,
> I'll settle on the heater.
>
> This technology exists all over. 5 clicks on the radio turns on the runway
> lights. I've just never seen it applied in this manner.
>
> Who here can give us a merry Christmas.
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
Andy wrote:
>
>
> To all you electronic guru's; here's what I want for christmas and I'm hoping
> someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
>
> I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my house.
I
> wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on the
> heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine, take
a
> morning fly, and be back at work by 10:00.
>
> Spoiled? Life of luxury? You betcha!!!
>
> I'm thinking of a device that will respond to a radio, or better yet a phone
or
> cell phone; "Thank you for calling Andy's airplane, press one to start the
> heater, press two to clean the canopy and drag me out of the hangar..." OK,
> I'll settle on the heater.
>
> This technology exists all over. 5 clicks on the radio turns on the runway
> lights. I've just never seen it applied in this manner.
>
> Who here can give us a merry Christmas.
>
> Andy
>
ask & you shall receive. seek & you shall find. etc etc
http://www.x10.com/products/x10_TR16A.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | electronic gurus |
Andy,
You've got way too much time and money available... but God I love your
perspective.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: electronic gurus
>
> To all you electronic guru's; here's what I want for christmas and I'm
hoping
> someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
>
> I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my
house. I
> wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on
the
> heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine,
take a
> morning fly, and be back at work by 10:00.
>
> Spoiled? Life of luxury? You betcha!!!
>
> I'm thinking of a device that will respond to a radio, or better yet a
phone or
> cell phone; "Thank you for calling Andy's airplane, press one to start
the
> heater, press two to clean the canopy and drag me out of the hangar..."
OK,
> I'll settle on the heater.
>
> This technology exists all over. 5 clicks on the radio turns on the
runway
> lights. I've just never seen it applied in this manner.
>
> Who here can give us a merry Christmas.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: The tools I have and those I wish I had... |
I don't have a band saw, but I do have a table saw. I purchased a hollow
ground plywood blade at the Black & Decker store in the Outlet Mall for
$7-8. I still haven't worn the thing out. I've cut all the heavy angles
with this. Anything else, snips work fine.
Don't forget to use your safety glasses!
Marty in Brentwood TN
RV-6A fuselage cabin floors.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Daniels" <jwdanie(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: The tools I have and those I wish I had...
>
> >Anyway, I have the same model band saw.
>
>
>
> >Still, I would not expect it to last much longer
> >than the duration of an RV project with almost daily use. When it comes
to
> >power tools, you truly get what you pay for.
> >
> >Brian Denk
>
> Brian,
> Seeing as I am teetering on buying one of these same saws, the
question
> comes to mind - is there a better alternative for a bench top bandsaw?
I'm
> loathe to take up my limited space with a floor standing unit.
>
> Jim Daniels
> Albuquerque, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
> Why not just buy a cheap timer that plugs into a wall socket. Set it to
> turn on at 6:00 am and off at 10:00 am. If it's nice, go fly. If not, no
> real damage done as long as you fly often enough to keep the moisture out of
> the crankcase.
>
I've got a timer and I use it.. But it means going to the airport the night
before to set it up, and then if the mornings weather or work schedule or
whatever says no flying, I still need to go back to the airport to turn it off.
I suppose it could just cycle every day, flying or not, but I've never really
felt comfortable with that. I've got no particular factual reason; just
thinking it may be bad for the heater to use so often and that the constant semi
warming of the oil and the case would cause much more rapid condensation build
up. Any truth to this at all, or is it just nonsense?
Still be really nice to have the remote actuator.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear |
The increased prop clearance was a consideration, but I have a wood 70" prop
and short gear legs that I have no problems with. One other reason was that
with the short gear legs, if you flare to what is the natural three point
attitude, the tail wheel always hits first. At least it seems to for me, if
you hold it in the actual three point attitude, it doesn't seem stalled and
has to settle, once the wheels are on the ground, you have to dump the flaps
and apply more back pressure on the stick to keep the wheels on the ground
if you do this too fast, a bounce often results. My experiances only, and
I think the longer gear legs help the landing attitude.
Joe Hine
Stumpy RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: Wilson, James Mike <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear
>
> I have a -4 with long gear. I believe gear length was increased in the
early
> 90s because builders began putting 180HP engines in the -4. Early -4 with
> 160HP typically used 68inch prop with short legs. 180HP typically needs
> 70-72 inch prop. Short legs may handle this but requires care.
> jmw
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SSPRING83(at)aol.com [mailto:SSPRING83(at)aol.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Long gear VS short gear
>
>
> Can any of you guys tell me what the advantage is of the long gear on a
> rv4 vs the short gear? I have a -4 that was built in 92 and am assuming
that
>
> it is the short gear that I hear you guys talk about. It would seem that
> while the long gear would offer a greater amount of ground clearance for
the
>
> prop tips it would also detract from the forward visability that you need
on
>
> takeoff or landing rollout. What is the advantage of having your nose
> sitting higher in the air?. Since you have to get the tail off the ground
> anyway in taking off and assume a slightly tail low attitude what is to
be
> gained? Appreciate any feed back you can offer on this guys. Thanks
> George Spring rv-4 4375J
> Chester, Conn.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
>
> ask & you shall receive. seek & you shall find. etc etc
>
> http://www.x10.com/products/x10_TR16A.htm
Almost, but not quite. This device does everything I hoped for. It will even
control
several modules so that every plane in a whole strip of hangars can use one device.
My plane on #1, my hangar mate on #2, the guy in the hangar next door on #3 etc....
The problem is, that it needs a land line phone jack to work. That may be do-able,
but the better alternative is to let it work like a cell phone, with an antenna
on the
roof. We'll keep looking, but we're getting close.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
Andy,
I'm a very long way from an electronic guru, but here is one way to solve
your problem. An X10 controller in an electronic control device that works
with a signal sent through the buildings wiring. With the proper hardware,
it can be controlled by phone. The whole system has been around for 15 or
20 years. I have been using it to control the lights in my home and office
for about that long. Here's a web page that has what you need:
www.smarthome.com/x10telephone.html
I see they have a Telephone Control Kit -- "Remote Control By Telephone!
With this kit you can call home from any touchtone phone and turn any X10
device on or off...."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: electronic gurus
>I'm hoping
> someone can tell me where to buy it, or how to make it:
>
> I wanna be able to turn on the sump heater on my 6A remotely from my
house. I
> wanna be able to get up at 6:00 AM, see its a good day for flying, turn on
the
> heater from my kitchen, get to the airport at 8:00 to a nice warm engine,
take a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
As someone else mentioned Reiff Preheat Systems have just such a device. Follow
this link:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Beeper%20Box%20pg%201.htm
or go to their home page at this link:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/
Bob McC
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
> > Why not just buy a cheap timer that plugs into a wall socket.
>
> I've got a timer and I use it.. But it means going to the airport the night
> before to set it up,
> Andy
>
> _-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw(at)wcvt.com> |
Subject: | electronic gurus |
Andy,
I'm quite sure there was an article about this in Aviation Consumer
magazine, oh, a year or so ago. I can look it up if anyone's interested.
Rick McCraw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
Don-
The great thing about the nosewheel tube is the fact that it hardly looses
any air at all. I have not had to put any air in the tires since I did a W&B
last August. You will most likely have to adjust the breakout force often
enough so adding a few lbs of air should be easy.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A
Tigard, OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
From the archive:
Match: #10 Message: #60181 From: "Alex Peterson" <
> Subject: Nose Gear Fairing Mounting Method Date: Sep 07, 1999
A few weeks ago, I asked the list if I understood the plans correctly,
specifically, if one had to remove the nose wheel axle to remove the
fairing. Apparently, this is the case per the plans. I am happy to report
that an alternative design works well. All I did differently (probably
others have already done this) was to mount the brackets which are fastened
to the axle bolt to the fiberglass fairing with platenuts and screws
instead of with rivets, as the plans specify. These brackets stay with the
nosewheel assembly when removing the fairing. I used two #8 screws per
side, and I patched the hole which I drilled for the axle for alignment
purposes. I reinforced the fiberglass in this area with some .032 aluminum
glassed to the inside. Additionally, I will use a low profile fiberlock
nut, as the standard one will interfere with the patched cowling.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
Added 12/4/01: Note that the fairing can be removed without removing the
axle bolt. It is hard to imagine anything that would hack me off more than
having to remove the wheel to remove the fairing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: The tools I have and those I wish I had... |
>
> >Still, I would not expect it to last much longer
> >than the duration of an RV project with almost daily use. When it comes
>to
> >power tools, you truly get what you pay for.
> >
> >Brian Denk
>
>Brian,
> Seeing as I am teetering on buying one of these same saws, the
>question
>comes to mind - is there a better alternative for a bench top bandsaw? I'm
>loathe to take up my limited space with a floor standing unit.
>
>Jim Daniels
>Albuquerque, NM
Jim,
I'd look at the Grizzly line of saws if I was looking for another bandsaw.
Or, Harbor freight. Although their power tools are mostly Chinese or
Taiwanese made, they have steel components where the Craftsman has lots of
plastic. Mike Talovich up in Farmington (RV8) bought an imported floor
standing bandsaw that only cost a couple hundred bucks and cuts through
really thick material like it was balsa wood. Similarly, I have an
imported, Cheesy green colored, made in Taiwan, floor standing, variable
speed drill press that works great. Cost $200 at a traveling tool show sale
at the Fair Grounds. It isn't suitable for really precise work (too much
gearing backlash), but has plenty of power and spins a fly cutter with ease.
Both the bandsaw and the drill press are absolute must-haves for the
fuselage kit, in my opinion. Elbow grease and a hacksaw will suffice for
the tail kit and wing kit for those who are tool funds challenged.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Scratched Canopy!!! (Att: Alex Peterson) |
In a message dated 12/4/2001 10:36:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Sandpaper got to close to the canopy and scratched the
> canopy!!!! :
(
>
I have had excellent luck with Novus 1, 2 and 3. If it is deep, start with
3, then go to 2, then to 1. Takes a little elbow grease but takes scratches
out of any plastics. Spruce sells it.
Hope this helps!
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 tipover canopy? |
I bought two RV-4 frames from Van, and worked them to about three inches
narrower so they would fit the RV-3. Then I made the rest and had it welded.
IMHO, buy the frame from Van, if he has one available.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | FYI regarding ABF freight systems shipping my MT prop |
My MT three blade prop arrived in June in good order. Last month, I
received a nasty letter from ABF stating that I owed an additional eighty
three dollars and that it was past due etc. I promptly called the local
office to attempt resolution...the local billing agent was rude and very
obnoxious - I finally got through to his supervisor who informed me that my
delivery charge was recalculated after the delivery was complete.
I have notified Vans of this matter and they have been attempting to get it
resolved - however, my dealings with ABF and their associates has been less
than civil.
Meanwhile, PLEASE REQUEST A DIFFERENT CARRIER!
If they can't get the billing correct - can you trust them with your
airplane parts? Think of it this way...you just got your hours flown off
after getting your airworthyness certificate - you return from a fly-in to
find that Lycoming recalculated the cost of their engine that you bought and
now they want an extra five hundred dollars.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: ProSeal - What's all the fuss? |
--- Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Yeah, that's the other oogly-boogly job that I'm not looking forward
> to.
> Hopefully, I'll think it's a walk in the park, too.
Just be sure and allow for the thickness of the plexiglass at the rear
when you fit the frame, or you'll join the bunch of us who have learned
how to use a metal shrinker!
This assumes a slider, btw...
Mine fits much better, now.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: ProSeal - What's all the fuss? |
--- Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Are you referring to tip-up or slider? I'm building the tip-up,
> which I
> understand is easier (note I didn't say "easy") to install.
Ah, yes. The slider was my particular hell. Sorry.
Have fun with the tipper.
:)
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
Subject: | elevator counter weights |
Hi all,
I need to add a few ounces of lead to my left elevator counterweights to
get it to trail correctly. Can anybody offer the procedure they used to
add to the existing counterweights.?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Another RV-8 Takes to the Air |
Listers,
On Nov 9, after a year and two months of building, I flew my RV-8 QB on
its maiden flight. Handles great, avionics as advertised, engine runs
fine, but had slightly cool #1 and high #3 CHT and prop governor was too
sensitive. A temperature raiser baffle in front of #1 balanced the CHT
and a different governor fixed the prop control.
Engine is a built up O-360 (180hp) converted to IO-360 with a Bendix
servo on a 200hp sump and intake pipes with new Millennium cylinders.
This way I can use the snorkel air intake and use the clean cowl. Had
to modify the snorkel by cutting out a segment in the middle and
reglassing.
Avionics include a Garmin 420 Comm/GPS, an Apollo SL30 Comm/Nav, a
Garmin 327 Transponder, a Garmin 340 Audio Panel, and a Mid-Continent
Indicator and ACU. It has a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor.
The Infinity slick grip and CT-83 Deluxe Throttle Quadrant make the
hands on handling superb.
See y'all at Sun 'N Fun.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX (Flying)
RV-8, 78TX (FLYING!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
> I've got a timer and I use it.. But it means going to the airport the night
> before to set it up, and then if the mornings weather or work schedule or
> whatever says no flying, I still need to go back to the airport to turn it off.
>
> I suppose it could just cycle every day, flying or not, but I've never really
> felt comfortable with that. I've got no particular factual reason; just
> thinking it may be bad for the heater to use so often and that the constant semi
> warming of the oil and the case would cause much more rapid condensation build
> up. Any truth to this at all, or is it just nonsense?
>
> Still be really nice to have the remote actuator.
>
> Andy
At the risk of jumping into a snakepit, here are my thoughts and
observations after using a sump heater for the past two winters. This
subject is controversial and hosts many strongly held opinions, some of
which are stated by people who actually have experience in this area.
There is no doubt that cold starts are not good for our engines. Two
years ago I installed a Reiff HotPadd sump heater on the O-320 in my
RV-6. The climate here in north Alabama is temperate, meaning we often
have mild temps in the winter but it is also not unusual to see temps
near zero degrees F. Like Andy I considered options for how to manage
the heater. Since the hangar has no phone line, and I didn't want to
invest in a pager just to activate the Reiff switch, I decided to leave
the heater plugged in all the time. This decision was reached after
researching all the material I could find on the subject.
The main objection to leaving the heater running continuously is due to
concern over condensation occuring in the engine. Not doubt all of us
have seen an iced tea glass "sweat" due to the glass being chilled to a
temp below the dew point. None of us would like to have the same
phenomenon occuring in the internals of our expensive engine. However,
if the engine temp could be continuously maintained above the dew point,
then condensation could not occur.
After considering our local climate and observing the temperature
maintained by the Reiff heater, I determined that the engine in my
hangared plane would indeed stay above the dew point during winter
months. Also contributing to my decision was the fact that my plane is
routinely flown at least once a week. As soon as the plane is put to
bed, the heater is plugged in, cowl vents are plugged, and a blanket is
thrown over the hood. Consequently, the engine is never given a chance
to cool below the dewpoint.
With this system, I routinely see cylinder temps at startup about 40-50
degrees F above ambient temp, and the oil is maintained at about 150
degrees. This results in a quick and easy start on any cold day, similar
to what I would see if the plane had been left out on the ramp on a nice
spring day. More info on the heater installation is here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html
I realize that some will still object to leaving a heater on all the
time in spite of the superlative logic I have extended in this argument.
;-)
There may be environmetal issues that would prevent others from using a
heater in this manner, but for my situation, I feel it is a prudent and
safe procedure, and I have been very happy with the results.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, tucked in and toasty)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
Subject: | The best part about building an RV |
Jim,
Doug "did" me, what a ride and great guy!
Jack
RV8
DSM
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
www.iaJobs.com
jack(at)iaJobs.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: Re: RV-List: The best part about building an RV
Jim,
If you weigh less than about 220 and find your way to Iowa and I will fix
your problem. I dont find myself in St Louey very often, but I if I do and
I remember, I will also fix your problem. Ya see, I plan to wear out a
couple RV's in my career and I wont be buildin one so I gotta keep the
builders motivated!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: The best part about building an RV
>
> One of these days I'll get to ride in an RV,
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Flightsuit sizing |
Ken, I'm not laughing. I might have at one time but not any more. I'd
suggest everyone consider it seriously. The memory of coming to in my "fire
retardant" shorts, t-shirt and sneakers completely soaked in fuel is not one
I would wish anyone else to have. I was extremely lucky. It took about 15
secs to unhook, free my legs and get out. Had there been fire I'd have been
toast. Nomex may have given me the time. Did I mention how lucky I was? Make
your own luck.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) RIP
Searching for Navion
>
> Well, with the light at the end of the proverbial tunnel becoming ever
> more visible, I'm starting to give more thought to flight test
> logistics. One task to be accomplished is the purchase of a Nomex
> flightsuit. I've never worn one and my question is: are most guys
> sizing them to fit over street clothes, or otherwise? I realize that
> it's probably just a matter of comfort, but what have others found
> comfortable in this situation?
>
> OK, you can all stop laughing now. I've obviously got too much time on
> my hands... :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Subject: | I'm completely baffled! |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I started installing my baffles last night... Yes I did get the kit
from Van's, and yes, after seeing the parts, I'm glad I did... In the
instructions they list the engine they know the baffles will fit without
modification and mine was on the list... I only got the sides done so
far, but have held the rest of the pieces up to the engine and they all
look like they will fit perfectly... I recommend the kit whole
heartedly...
Anyway... I plan on installing my oil cooler on the back of the baffles
on the left side and am looking for pictures on the web of installations
so I don't have to re-invent the wheel...
Thanks in advance...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - It's Baffling!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Fused alternator output |
The requirement for a fused output depends upon the type of alternator/
voltage regulator that you are using.
The internally regulated 40 amp automotive alternator that I am using has
overcurrent protection as a function of the integral voltage regulator, that
acts the same as a 40 amp fuse, hence no additional protection is required on
the OUTPUT side. The INPUT side however requires a fused 5 amp feed.
Chris Hukill
flying RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hobby Stevens" <rayco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: elevator counter weights |
Gary,
Get some lead in sheet form - plumbers and roofers use it around sewer vent
pipes where these pipes penetrate a roof. Then cut a few strips out of the
sheet in the size of your elevator counterweight, and sandwich the sheet
lead under the large counterweights and the underlying structure. Just be
careful that you don't put so many layers of lead sheeting that you get
interference when the elevator is moved through its full range of motion.
Of course, you will need to drill holes in the lead sheeting to accommodate
your bolts (use the existing lead counterweight as a template).
Hobby Stevens
RV6
Abilene, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: elevator counter weights
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need to add a few ounces of lead to my left elevator counterweights to
> get it to trail correctly. Can anybody offer the procedure they used to
> add to the existing counterweights.?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
> I'm starting to give more thought to flight test
> logistics. One task to be accomplished is the purchase of a Nomex
> flightsuit. My question is: are most guys
> sizing them to fit over street clothes, or otherwise.....
Hey, Ken: Good idea on the Nomex flight suit. You never know and I could
tell you stories about why it is a good idea. Size it to fit over street
clothes. You can still fly naked under them if you find the need. If you fit
them over street cloths, they will still fit OK with shorts and T-shirt
underneath. Some people like them sort of form-fitting, some like them
lose. It depends on your style. If you are sizing them up at a store, put
one on and go sit in a chair somewhere, so you can see how they fit when
sitting down, cuz that is what you'll be doing in one most of the time.
Size: for reference, I am a standard-issue 5 foot 9 or so 175 pounder and
like 'em sort of form fitting. I wear a 42R (the R being regular length
legs), military issue.
Sources: Military: friends retired from service; Air Force/Navy surplus.
Custom, including different colors: Flight Suits Ltd at
http://www.flightsuits.com. Good source for Helmets, too. You are going to
get a helmet, aren't you?
Consider a Nomex Jacket for winter flying, if you have the need. Do NOT wear
nylon, even though they look the same. Nylon has a tendency to BURN when
encouraged. Silly to wear a Nomex flight suit covered by a nylon jacket.
Flight testing, eh? It's getting closer.................
You're gonna love your new airplane..........
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flight suits look cool. Or stupid, depending on your point of view. See the
archives on helmet and flight suit discussions.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Fused alternator output |
Chris,
I believe the reason you want to fuse the alternator feed line is not to
protect the alternator output so much, but to protect against a short in
the alternator/alternator feed that would unleash the full furry of the battery
amperage into the alternator/alternator feed. That is why you want to put the
fuse near the starter contactor so as to protect the whole length of the alternator
feed. The alternator itself cannot put out more
amperage than its rating, but the battery sure can do a lot of unnecessary welding.
I think Bob Knuckolls discussed this not long ago over on the Aeroelectric
list.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Helifoto(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Fused alternator output
The requirement for a fused output depends upon the type of alternator/
voltage regulator that you are using.
The internally regulated 40 amp automotive alternator that I am using has
overcurrent protection as a function of the integral voltage regulator, that
acts the same as a 40 amp fuse, hence no additional protection is required on
the OUTPUT side. The INPUT side however requires a fused 5 amp feed.
Chris Hukill
flying RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Subject: | Ray Lynn's recently signed off RV-8! |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
http://eaa72.org/vafml/members/rlynn/index.htm
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: elevator counter weights |
Gary,
I talked with Van's a few weeks ago about balancing elevators on an -8. I
told them that my friend had to drill out almost all the lead to get the
right side to balance... and needed almost every bit of what was there for
the left side. Tom told me that it's not necessary to balance the elevators
independently. Bot them together and balance them as a unit. I'm guessing
that if you bolt the two horns together, you probably won't have to add any
lead.
Hope this helps.
Rod Woodard
RV-3 empennage
In a message dated 12/5/01 8:17:20 AM Mountain Standard Time, ggunn(at)qwest.net
writes:
> I need to add a few ounces of lead to my left elevator counterweights to
> get it to trail correctly. Can anybody offer the procedure they used to
> add to the existing counterweights.?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: I'm completely baffled! |
Bill,
You've probably already seen these, but check out
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/baffles.html and
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/oilcooler.html
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
80 + hrs, getting ready to paint!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Subject: RV-List: I'm completely baffled!
>
> Hi all...
>
> I started installing my baffles last night... Yes I did get the kit
> from Van's, and yes, after seeing the parts, I'm glad I did... In the
> instructions they list the engine they know the baffles will fit without
> modification and mine was on the list... I only got the sides done so
> far, but have held the rest of the pieces up to the engine and they all
> look like they will fit perfectly... I recommend the kit whole
> heartedly...
>
> Anyway... I plan on installing my oil cooler on the back of the baffles
> on the left side and am looking for pictures on the web of installations
> so I don't have to re-invent the wheel...
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - It's Baffling!
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | I'm completely baffled! |
Hi Bill,
There's one shot that might help you at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/429050/guest.phtml
It shows a little trick I used to simplify the baffle sealing around the oil cooler.
Laird RV-6 SoCal
ps I haven't had time to work on the drawing your looking for-L
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 5, 2001 9:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: I'm completely baffled!
Hi all...
I started installing my baffles last night... Yes I did get the kit
from Van's, and yes, after seeing the parts, I'm glad I did... In the
instructions they list the engine they know the baffles will fit without
modification and mine was on the list... I only got the sides done so
far, but have held the rest of the pieces up to the engine and they all
look like they will fit perfectly... I recommend the kit whole
heartedly...
Anyway... I plan on installing my oil cooler on the back of the baffles
on the left side and am looking for pictures on the web of installations
so I don't have to re-invent the wheel...
Thanks in advance...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - It's Baffling!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
12/05/2001 01:51:23 PM
For maximum protection, only cotton clothing should be worn under the
Nomex. Obviously, polyester or nylon is a no-no. Polyester and nylon will
melt and / or burn causing extremely severe injury. Make sure your
underwear is all cotton. Also, for maximum protection, the sleeves should
be down and buttoned at the wrist.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Steve Davis Phone |
I have been trying to call Steve Davis at the Panel pilot at 901-527-5265
and they tell me the number is no longer in service. Any ideas of a new
phone number?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
I found a video of a spin in an RV-8a... 14 full rotations!
http://www.geocities.com/gwoho/plane/spin.avi
You may need to get this to play it -> http://www.divx.com/divx
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
Don't forget the most important item... Nomex gloves. The better gloves
have a good feel and in case of fire, you can grab things that are hotter
than you can with a bare hand; do it quickly the first time.
And when there is a fire, time is of the essence.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flightsuit sizing
> I'm starting to give more thought to flight test
> logistics. One task to be accomplished is the purchase of a Nomex
> flightsuit. My question is: are most guys
> sizing them to fit over street clothes, or otherwise.....
Hey, Ken: Good idea on the Nomex flight suit. You never know and I could
tell you stories about why it is a good idea. Size it to fit over street
clothes. You can still fly naked under them if you find the need. If you fit
them over street cloths, they will still fit OK with shorts and T-shirt
underneath. Some people like them sort of form-fitting, some like them
lose. It depends on your style. If you are sizing them up at a store, put
one on and go sit in a chair somewhere, so you can see how they fit when
sitting down, cuz that is what you'll be doing in one most of the time.
Size: for reference, I am a standard-issue 5 foot 9 or so 175 pounder and
like 'em sort of form fitting. I wear a 42R (the R being regular length
legs), military issue.
Sources: Military: friends retired from service; Air Force/Navy surplus.
Custom, including different colors: Flight Suits Ltd at
http://www.flightsuits.com. Good source for Helmets, too. You are going to
get a helmet, aren't you?
Consider a Nomex Jacket for winter flying, if you have the need. Do NOT wear
nylon, even though they look the same. Nylon has a tendency to BURN when
encouraged. Silly to wear a Nomex flight suit covered by a nylon jacket.
Flight testing, eh? It's getting closer.................
You're gonna love your new airplane..........
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flight suits look cool. Or stupid, depending on your point of view. See the
archives on helmet and flight suit discussions.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 Takes to the Air |
--- Stuart B McCurdy wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> On Nov 9, after a year and two months of building, I flew my RV-8 QB
> on
> its maiden flight. Handles great, avionics as advertised, engine
> runs
> fine, but had slightly cool #1 and high #3 CHT and prop governor was
> too
> sensitive. A temperature raiser baffle in front of #1 balanced the
> CHT
> and a different governor fixed the prop control.
>
> Engine is a built up O-360 (180hp) converted to IO-360 with a Bendix
> servo on a 200hp sump and intake pipes with new Millennium cylinders.
>
> This way I can use the snorkel air intake and use the clean cowl.
> Had
> to modify the snorkel by cutting out a segment in the middle and
> reglassing.
>
> Avionics include a Garmin 420 Comm/GPS, an Apollo SL30 Comm/Nav, a
> Garmin 327 Transponder, a Garmin 340 Audio Panel, and a Mid-Continent
> Indicator and ACU. It has a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor.
>
> The Infinity slick grip and CT-83 Deluxe Throttle Quadrant make the
> hands on handling superb.
>
> See y'all at Sun 'N Fun.
>
> Stu McCurdy
> RV-3, 74TX (Flying)
> RV-8, 78TX (FLYING!)
>
Congratulations Stu. Hope to fly with you again soon. Are you
planning on selling the RV-3?
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Steve Davis Phone |
Steve Davis's phone number:
901-526-0491
fax. 901-526-0416
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Mickey
Subject: RV-List: Steve Davis Phone
I have been trying to call Steve Davis at the Panel pilot at 901-527-5265
and they tell me the number is no longer in service. Any ideas of a new
phone number?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Project for sale |
RV-8 Project ,Illinois, Empennage 100% complete including
fiberglass,flaps and ailerons. Left wing in fixture with skins drilled,
right wing ready f/fixture. $6500.00
Lee Beare
(217) 496-2652
Sherman, Illinois
mphill(at)gcctv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
Sorry but I must disagree. For MAXIMUM protection Nomex underwear should be worn
under the Nomex
flight suit, along with Nomex socks, Nomex double or triple layer gloves and (preferably)
Nomex
shoes. Most motor racing sanctioning bodies require Nomex underwear under drivers
suits which in
most cases must be at least double layer, hence protecting the wearer with a MINIMUM
of three Nomex
layers.
One piece suits are also the norm in racing to prevent a possible exposure point
at the waist. By
the way, don't get me wrong, cotton is a good second choice and your other comments
are valid.
Respectfully
Bob McC
Ellis H Mcgaughy wrote:
>
> For maximum protection, only cotton clothing should be worn under the
> Nomex. Obviously, polyester or nylon is a no-no. Polyester and nylon will
> melt and / or burn causing extremely severe injury. Make sure your
> underwear is all cotton. Also, for maximum protection, the sleeves should
> be down and buttoned at the wrist.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 12/04/01 |
Hi to the listers -
Does anybody have an sketches or plans to put the fuel gauges on the same
place (near the pilot's left knee) that the fuel valve is on an 8? I saw
this on bill von dane's site (http://vondane.com/rv8a/fusepj/fusepj3.htm) .
Turns out the 8A cover piece comes with a little hump there that is perfect
for two 2.25 gauges but the 8 doesn't. The parts are not interchangeable
because the 8A's cover is narrower. Would love to do the same thing as the
8A but don't want to interfere with back seat rudder pedal shaft.
This must be the only time an 8A has a small advantage over the 8, huh?
Thanks in advance......
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Vansairforce"
Subject: | RV-8A Spin Video... |
I have posted the RV-8A spin video, as well as a roll video to my web
site... You all should have no trouble getting them from there...
No exceeded allocated data transfer crap.....It's my server!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/videos/
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 12/04/01 |
Hey Parker... I forgot that my hangar mate made his own fuel gauge mount
for his -8 down there in the same place... I will take pix of it tomorrow
night and post them...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of F. Parker Thomas
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 12/04/01
Hi to the listers -
Does anybody have an sketches or plans to put the fuel gauges on the same
place (near the pilot's left knee) that the fuel valve is on an 8? I saw
this on bill von dane's site (http://vondane.com/rv8a/fusepj/fusepj3.htm) .
Turns out the 8A cover piece comes with a little hump there that is perfect
for two 2.25 gauges but the 8 doesn't. The parts are not interchangeable
because the 8A's cover is narrower. Would love to do the same thing as the
8A but don't want to interfere with back seat rudder pedal shaft.
This must be the only time an 8A has a small advantage over the 8, huh?
Thanks in advance......
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan&Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)infi.net> |
Subject: | Re: elevator counter weights |
Gary Gunn wrote:I need to add a few ounces of lead to my left elevator
counterweights
I poured my counterweights and also came up light on one side. I simply place
the added weight that I needed on top of the existing weight and then took a
torch and melted the added weight into the existing weight.
Dan Krueger
RV6A N926DK
Heading to the paint shop and than the hangar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 Takes to the Air |
Stuart,
CONGRATULATIONS WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (45 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
From: Stuart B McCurdy <STURDY(at)ATT.NET>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Another RV-8 Takes to the Air
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 09:14:02 -0600
-- RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy
Listers,
On Nov 9, after a year and two months of building, I flew my RV-8 QB on
its maiden flight. Handles great, avionics as advertised, engine runs
fine, but had slightly cool #1 and high #3 CHT and prop governor was too
sensitive. A temperature raiser baffle in front of #1 balanced the CHT
and a different governor fixed the prop control.
Engine is a built up O-360 (180hp) converted to IO-360 with a Bendix
servo on a 200hp sump and intake pipes with new Millennium cylinders.
This way I can use the snorkel air intake and use the clean cowl. Had
to modify the snorkel by cutting out a segment in the middle and
reglassing.
Avionics include a Garmin 420 Comm/GPS, an Apollo SL30 Comm/Nav, a
Garmin 327 Transponder, a Garmin 340 Audio Panel, and a Mid-Continent
Indicator and ACU. It has a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor.
The Infinity slick grip and CT-83 Deluxe Throttle Quadrant make the
hands on handling superb.
See y'all at Sun 'N Fun.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX (Flying)
RV-8, 78TX (FLYING!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
a few items here.
First for both Ladies and gents alike, please raise your hands high when
trying on your suits. If it seems OK, you may find that once you raise your
arms that it is a bit too short in the most unsuspecting area.
Next, for long trips, if you are not purchasing surplus, please be sure to
get the suit with the second lower zipper for those x-tra long flignts.
Most importantly, Please, Please remember that the bed-sheet-thin Nomex
flight suit will NOT afford any insulation or heat protection from fire. Your
skin will still blister, burn, and char just as if you were not wearing
anything at all. I have seen it.
If you do not believe me, hold an Iron near or hair dryer to your thigh or
arm while wearing your suit. (not the double thick pocket areas)
Nominal insulation.
The main benefit of Nomex is that it will not sustain fire or melt to your
skin. (if you use a lighter with some scrap, you will see that Nomex will
kind of burn and ash, it just will not sustain combustion.
Gloves are a bit better, but they are also a bit thicker. I love them, but
for the leather palm and finger area.
If fire protection is your goal, please consider a quilted, fire resistant
auto racing suit. (like Simpson) This is the preference of almost every
competition Acro pilot or show pilot, and 99% of race pilots.
The only other option would be bunker gear from a fire department supply
house. Or, could use the extra thick wool or cotton pants some places still
carry. However with the fire gear, I doubt "NERD" would even come close to
describing what you would look like stepping out of your A/C dressed like a
fluorescent yellow Michelin man!
Most all fire departments have long since given up Nomex in favor of "PBI".
This from my 15 year fire/ems service.
OD suits have the cool factor hands down....well ....except for that NASA
blue Nomex!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
Subject: | Trim tab control horns? |
I clecoed my elevator trim tab together today and found that the control
horns are the shorter ones for the electric trim but I did not order the
electric trim, I guess I need to order the other ones right?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: landing lights |
In a message dated 12/5/01 12:16:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
> I've got a set of Van's new RV-7 sheared style wingtips with the cutout for
> the nav lights. I've seen several landing light installations jammed into
> the wingtip next to the nav/strobe lights. What brand bulbs are you guys
> using? Do they work well? Enough light? Any problems with melting the
> plexi covers?
Vince-
I've got the RMD fixtures in my wing tips and am running two #4595 (100W 12V
each) 4.5" diameter incandescent sealed beams with the wide spread. ACS
doesn't carry them, but Chief does. Plenty of lumens and no problem with
melting the polycarbonate lenses/covers.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
If you really want lumens, switch to the HID Xenon system. It puts out over
500k candle power and puts everything else to shame. It's a bit pricey
though.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
In a message dated 12/5/01 12:16:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
> I've got a set of Van's new RV-7 sheared style wingtips with the cutout
for
> the nav lights. I've seen several landing light installations jammed into
> the wingtip next to the nav/strobe lights. What brand bulbs are you guys
> using? Do they work well? Enough light? Any problems with melting the
> plexi covers?
Vince-
I've got the RMD fixtures in my wing tips and am running two #4595 (100W 12V
each) 4.5" diameter incandescent sealed beams with the wide spread. ACS
doesn't carry them, but Chief does. Plenty of lumens and no problem with
melting the polycarbonate lenses/covers.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: I'm completely baffled! |
More baffle/oil cooler pix can be seen at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing |
From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
12/06/2001 08:04:10 AM
Bob, I agree .... you are correct.
My thinking comes from years in the Chemical Manufacturing Industry where
cotton is specified. This is no doubt related to cost and comfort. Nomex
would be better. And, the thinker the better. However, everything is a
compromise .... getting back to comfort and cost.
By the way, I worked in Nomex Manufacturing for several years. I have also
worn it for several years in the Gulf Coast area. (i.e. hot!)
Ellis
Robert McCallum (at)matronics.com on 12/05/2001
07:40:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flightsuit sizing
Sorry but I must disagree. For MAXIMUM protection Nomex underwear should be
worn under the Nomex
flight suit, along with Nomex socks, Nomex double or triple layer gloves
and (preferably) Nomex
shoes. Most motor racing sanctioning bodies require Nomex underwear under
drivers suits which in
most cases must be at least double layer, hence protecting the wearer with
a MINIMUM of three Nomex
layers.
One piece suits are also the norm in racing to prevent a possible exposure
point at the waist. By
the way, don't get me wrong, cotton is a good second choice and your other
comments are valid.
Respectfully
Bob McC
Ellis H Mcgaughy wrote:
>
> For maximum protection, only cotton clothing should be worn under the
> Nomex. Obviously, polyester or nylon is a no-no. Polyester and nylon
will
> melt and / or burn causing extremely severe injury. Make sure your
> underwear is all cotton. Also, for maximum protection, the sleeves
should
> be down and buttoned at the wrist.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Flightsuit sizing, use, risks |
Since I wear it every day, I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I wear the
thin Nomex for flash fire protection at work. It offers almost no
insulating protection. Any small amount of time exposed directly to a
flame, and things are going to start heating up quickly. On the other hand
I hear comments like you must wear three layers of Nomex. Come on, you must
live in the arctic circle! This stuff is hot in one layer, and I'm just
wearing plain old cotton shorts underneath. I disagree that every flight
needs three layers or even two. A layer of cotton clothes underneath would
offer some useful insulation, but it all depends on how much risk you're
facing.
If I was driving top fuel dragsters or racing stock cars, I'd wear the three
layers of Nomex with the cloves and face protection. For test flying an RV,
I'd wear Nomex coveralls over cotton clothes, Nomex gloves, a helmet and a
parachute. For daily flying, I recommend a t-shirt, shorts, RV baseball
cap, stylish sunglasses and a headset.
If you think wearing Nomex on routine flights is necessary, then you need to
be wearing a helmet and parachute as well. Normal flying with coveralls
might be good for the visual effect, if it's not summer south of the Red
River.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
What is an engine heater anyway? We do not require them in Phoenix, come down
and move into the valley of the sun and rent a hangar like everyone else and
forget about warming up your engine prior to starting.
Greg in PHX DVT
RV6S N250GS
Final wiring and testing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)fiberpipe.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit sizing, use, risks |
I'm always comforted to know that Nomex is fireproof, because when I wear
it, I always feel like I'm going to burn up!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: FYI regarding ABF freight systems shipping my MT prop |
Jim,
The guys that you're talking about in your experience performed no
differently than their counterparts here.
It's the guys in the higher up office that hosed this one...
I'm working with two of them - we're making progress on getting this
resolved.
I'll let folks know,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Fw: www.voteforga.com |
I think this is worth reading.
Bill Costello
Subject: www.voteforga.com
The following letter is from a member of the International Cessna 120/140
Association, but this can be of interest to anyone in aviation.
Gary Latronica
I have just launched www.voteforga.com
It is my attempt to contribute to the political interests of
General Aviation in the post-9/11/2001 world.
It occurred to me that the various alphabet organizations may
occasionally need to be very diplomatic when dealing with
public officials. www.voteforga.com doesn't deal directly
with officials, so can tell it like it is, pull no punches,
pick your own cliche.
The site is non-partisan and is a 'one issue' site. If someone
is a complete scoundrel but good for GA, he gets a good rating.
If an official is a saint with a blind-spot to GA, she gets a
lousy rating.
Also, the site depends upon information from pilots to arrive
at the ratings. Right now, we have 50 (mostly Congressional)
officials rated. We'd like to make it 100% of Congress, all
governors, and all relevant members of the Executive branch.
There is also plenty of room for key local advocates and
adveraries to get rated. For all of that, we need help from YOU.
Please help 'fill out' the site so that a) GA voters know who
is on their side and b) government officials can see their
name up 'in lights' as to how they're doing vis-a-vis GA.
Greg Bullough
webmaster
www.voteforga.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
No, you guys need engine "coolers" for those 120 degree days in the summer.
Yeah, I know, it's a dry heat. So is a pizza oven. :>}
They don't call it the "valley of the sun" for nothing.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (sold)
Enjoying the "harsh" Indiana winter (68 degrees yesterday)
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: electronic gurus
>
> What is an engine heater anyway? We do not require them in Phoenix, come
down
> and move into the valley of the sun and rent a hangar like everyone else
and
> forget about warming up your engine prior to starting.
>
> Greg in PHX DVT
> RV6S N250GS
> Final wiring and testing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Gary,
I know you've posted this a 100 times, but I have a question. How did you
cut the front
of the breather for the access plate? Did you use a fly cutter , sacrifice
the cover,
and then cut out another cover out of aluminum or did you use the fly cutter
without a pilot?
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:Vanremog(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: oil separator
>
>
> In a message dated 12/15/00 3:46:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> brencotool(at)abq.com writes:
>
> << I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
> equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
> collected from the separator back to ? >>
>
> The only people that seem to have problems with the use of oil separators
> are
> those that insist on draining the condensate back into the engine somehow.
>
> The best way is not to. Get the cheapie ACS unit and modify it to put an
> access plate on it (similar to the fuel tank end plates) so that you can
> stuff two large stainless steel pot scrubber pads in it. Plumb the drain
> to
> a Matco brake fluid reservoir or something similar with a Saf-air (sp) or
> Curtis valve so you can drain it when you do your oil change.
>
> It may help you baseline and monitor general engine condition if you keep
> track of the volume drained over time.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: elevator counter weights |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
If its not painted yet, I suggest you might wait till then.
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need to add a few ounces of lead to my left elevator
> counterweights to
> get it to trail correctly. Can anybody offer the procedure they used
> to
> add to the existing counterweights.?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | electronic gurus - answers |
First I want to thank everyone for your answers and suggestions.
Before asking on this list, I suggested the issue to a few of our local
pilots. "Yeah, right, keep dreaming" was the almost universal response. Now,
with your help, we
can now "dream no more".
There are 2 good possible solutions and a few other "duct tape and ingenuity" type
ideas, but as
one person commented, the idea of burning down a strip of airplanes with non-approved
components
might make the insurance company happy, but probably wouldn't be the highlight
of my month.
Option 1 - Bob Reiff's Beeper Box
Buy this $370 device from Bob Reiff, buy a standard pager, and subscribe to a pager
service. You
may need an antenna on the roof of your metal hangar if you don't get good beeper
reception
inside. You call the beeper. The sound of the beeper beeping triggers an audio
sensor which
clicks on your heater. Benefits - you don't need a phone line in your hangar.
Drawbacks - a
little pricey, will only control one recepticle. It could control 2 planes but
not individually.
Turn on your plane and your hangarmate's goes on too; he turns on his and your's
goes on too,
unless one of you leaves yours unplugged. Check out the details at: http://www.ReiffPreheat.com
Option 2 - The X-10 Touch Tone Controller
One electronic device controls as many as 10 recepticles. Press 1 for your
plane, 2 for your hangarmates, 3 for the guy in the hangar next to you, ect...
The unit cost $40 plus $14 per receptical for each plane hooked up. Each
receptical is good for up to 500 watts, which is plenty for the Lycoming 0-360
sized Bob Reiff
sump heater which draws 160 watts. Benefits - Its cheap, and also allows several
people to share
the system. Drawbacks - It requires a telephone land line to work. The costs
of installing a new
telephone line here in Granby, CO are $36 per month for basic service plus $52
activation fee,
plus $95 for the phone company to install the innital jacks, plus what ever it
costs to dig
trenches and install wire from the closest existing phone box to your hangar.
Very pricey for one
person, but shared among 6-7 participants, much more reasonable. What would really
be nice, is if
this or something similar could work off a cell phone receiver but I've yet to
find such a
device. Check out details at http://www.x10.com/products/x10_tr16a.htm
Option 3 - Leave your heater on all the time, or set it on a permanent timer
(goes on every morning at 5:00, goes off every day at 10:00)
According to Bob Reiff, under optimum conditions the sump heater will last
100,000 hours. As we use them, they are likely good for 50,000 hours. So the
reliability and
longevity of the unit is not an issue. What is an issue,
unless you fly every day, is condensation build up from having a warm lower engine
and a cooler
upper engine. According to Bob Reiff, both Lycoming and Continental strongly advise
against it.
This problem is not as bad if you have both a sump heater and cylinder heaters.
If you must do
it, says Bob, loosen the dip stick on the engine so the warm air can escape and
the air inside the
engine can circulate.
My choice? If I can talk 6-7 people into sharing the X-10 device and
installing the telephone wiring I'll go with that. Otherwise I'll get Bob
Reiff's Beeper Box either by myself or with 1 partner and keep the dip stick
open for times when he flies, but I don't.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
Don, We did not rivet the brackets to the wheel pants. We attached the wheel
pants to the brackets with plate nuts..This way all we have to do to check
the air presssure is to remove the forward part of the pant and remove a few
screws and back the back of the pant off. The pant is larger in the center
than it is at the forward end so we will have to pull the pant open to chear
the bracket but after watching my friend jack his plane up and remove the
axel just to check the air it seems a much easer way and it looks good too
because we only have two holes in the pant for the tow bar.
Rod and Rollie
6A going to the airport next week!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Vibration Isolators For Gyros (Again!) |
The Lord Corporation, visit www.lord.com, (no, this is not a religious
website) offers an analytical tool on their website for selecting
vibration isolators.
Click on vibration isolators, several times, to get to the analysis
tool. Plus you'll have to reveal your email address.
I decided against using the "flex bolt sandwich mounts", like Aircraft
Spruce sells, for my sub-panel. Because the calculated natural frequency
was, approximately, equal to the idle speed of my 360 Lycoming.
Lord also sells a "plateform mount" vibration isolator. It might work.
The analysis predicted a natural frequency well below engine idle. But
it's significantly bigger than the flex bolt sandwich mount.
I would like to see panel vibration data before I reconsider my no
isolators decision.
Has anyone installed accelerometers on their instrument panel and
recorded vibration levels (hopefully in all three axis) at idle and
cruise?
Gabe A Ferrer (Building RV6. Working on Inst Panel)
Cell: 561 758 8894
Voice or Fax: 561 622 0960
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab control horns? |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I would look again... I believe I got both horns in my kit...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim tab control horns?
>
>
> In a message dated 12/5/01 10:48:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bhester(at)apex.net writes:
>
> << I clecoed my elevator trim tab together today and found that the control
> horns are the shorter ones for the electric trim but I did not order the
> electric trim, I guess I need to order the other ones right? >>
Nope only got two horns. They are the two for the electric trim. Vans is sending
me the two for the manual trim.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil separator |
I think I missed this one before...what's the pot scrubbers for again? And
if you run the lines back to the engine, does it not work or something?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil separator
>
> Gary,
> I know you've posted this a 100 times, but I have a question. How did you
> cut the front
> of the breather for the access plate? Did you use a fly cutter , sacrifice
> the cover,
> and then cut out another cover out of aluminum or did you use the fly
cutter
> without a pilot?
>
>
> Ed Cole
> Maxim Integrated Products
> Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:Vanremog(at)AOL.COM]
> > Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:21 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: oil separator
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/15/00 3:46:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > brencotool(at)abq.com writes:
> >
> > << I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
> > equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
> > collected from the separator back to ? >>
> >
> > The only people that seem to have problems with the use of oil
separators
> > are
> > those that insist on draining the condensate back into the engine
somehow.
> >
> > The best way is not to. Get the cheapie ACS unit and modify it to put
an
> > access plate on it (similar to the fuel tank end plates) so that you can
> > stuff two large stainless steel pot scrubber pads in it. Plumb the
drain
> > to
> > a Matco brake fluid reservoir or something similar with a Saf-air (sp)
or
> > Curtis valve so you can drain it when you do your oil change.
> >
> > It may help you baseline and monitor general engine condition if you
keep
> > track of the volume drained over time.
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> > vanremog(at)aol.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: landing lights |
Bruce
Can you suggest a vendor or refer me to a web site to learn more about these
lamps?
Charlie Kuss
>
> If you really want lumens, switch to the HID Xenon system. It puts out over
> 500k candle power and puts everything else to shame. It's a bit pricey
> though.
>
> Bruce
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
>
>
> In a message dated 12/5/01 12:16:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
>
> > I've got a set of Van's new RV-7 sheared style wingtips with the cutout
> for
> > the nav lights. I've seen several landing light installations jammed into
> > the wingtip next to the nav/strobe lights. What brand bulbs are you guys
> > using? Do they work well? Enough light? Any problems with melting the
> > plexi covers?
>
> Vince-
>
> I've got the RMD fixtures in my wing tips and am running two #4595 (100W 12V
> each) 4.5" diameter incandescent sealed beams with the wide spread. ACS
> doesn't carry them, but Chief does. Plenty of lumens and no problem with
> melting the polycarbonate lenses/covers.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
http://www.misty.com/people/don/d2.html
http://www.hidxenon.com/faq.htm
There is a ton of stuff on the web, but these looked pretty good...
If you want to find anything on the web, go here and do a search ->
http://www.google.com/
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
Bruce
Can you suggest a vendor or refer me to a web site to learn more about
these
lamps?
Charlie Kuss
>
> If you really want lumens, switch to the HID Xenon system. It puts out
over
> 500k candle power and puts everything else to shame. It's a bit pricey
> though.
>
> Bruce
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
>
>
> In a message dated 12/5/01 12:16:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
>
> > I've got a set of Van's new RV-7 sheared style wingtips with the cutout
> for
> > the nav lights. I've seen several landing light installations jammed
into
> > the wingtip next to the nav/strobe lights. What brand bulbs are you
guys
> > using? Do they work well? Enough light? Any problems with melting the
> > plexi covers?
>
> Vince-
>
> I've got the RMD fixtures in my wing tips and am running two #4595 (100W
12V
> each) 4.5" diameter incandescent sealed beams with the wide spread. ACS
> doesn't carry them, but Chief does. Plenty of lumens and no problem with
> melting the polycarbonate lenses/covers.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV6-List(at)matronics.com, RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com,
RV9-List(at)matronics.com, Homebuilt-List(at)matronics.com,
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From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kdbrv8r@charter.net.12.06.2001/index.html
---------------------------------
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---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | suction regulator vs. restrictor valve |
Hey Guys,
Is a suction regulator necessary? I see aircraft spruce has a vacuum
restrictor valve for about $20.00 verses $200.00 for a suction regulator. I
have a stratus vacuum pump and am wondering if the pump will produce
excessive vacuum pressure without a regulator. If it does produce to much
vacuum can it be reduced with the less expensive restrictor valve? The pump
will drive a DG and an artificial horizon. Also perhaps I should mention that
I plan to use 3/8 " OD tubing. Is this size adequate? Any input greatly
appreciated!
Bill Griffin RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus - answers |
I've been vexed by this problem as well. I've found a solution that works
well for me if you'd like another data point. I have the Reiff sump heater
and I also bought a cheapie ceramic bathroom type heater from Walmart. The
heater output is roughly 6" square. I then used a similarly sized piece of
flexible ducting that I bent into an "S" shape. I smashed the end of it so
that it fits nicely into the cowl exit scoop between the exhaust pipes. The
other end rests on the floor and the heater fits somewhat snugly into the
input end of the duct.
When I get to the hangar I plug in the ceramic heater and the sump heater
and load the plane (if x/c), preflight, have some coffee, plink around in
the hangar, etc for half an hour. It raises the cylinder/oil temp by 30 or
more degrees. With the cowl plugs in and a blanket on the cowl it heats up
about 10x faster than the sump heater alone, and it cost about $20 for the
heater and duct.
When the geothermal heat system is working in my hangar it stays about 45-50
degrees inside so I don't even usually do this, but in the old barely sealed
uninsulated hangar that I used to occupy, I did this a lot.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> My choice? If I can talk 6-7 people into sharing the X-10 device and
> installing the telephone wiring I'll go with that. Otherwise I'll get Bob
> Reiff's Beeper Box either by myself or with 1 partner and keep the dip
stick
> open for times when he flies, but I don't.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
Subject: | Yeller Pages Update |
Listers!
The latest version of Gary VanRemortel's RV Builder's Yeller Pages is now
online at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Thanks Gary!
- Mike
RV6A (in progress) N642MH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | suction regulator vs. restrictor valve |
Hi Bill,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you should really buy a regulator
for your system. The restrictor has a specific purpose, and at face value
would appear to do the same thing as the regulator. Here's the difference,
Vacuum Regulator. Operates on a Variable pressure, since your engine RPM
changes, so does the Hg". The regulator is able to provide a constant
pressure/suction to your gyros no matter what amount of vacuum the pump is
pulling varied with engine speed.
Vacuum Restricot. Operates on a FIXED pressure (Hg"), the restrictor allows
a variable restricted volume of air to be pulled (or driven) through it.
This means that in order to keep the desired 4-6" Hg, you would contantly
need to adjust it as it can NOT compensate for a variabl suction created by
varied engine RPM.
The main usage for a restrictor is inline with your "Regulated" suction,
It's there reduce the fixed amount of vacuum to another gyro, usually a Vac.
operated Turn Coordinator which normally operates on 2-3" Hg less than other
gyros. You'll find that if you installed the restrictor and no regulator,
your vac. level would fluctuate with engine RPM. I have seen this setup
used with old aircraft utilizing venturis, but the suction created by a
venturi is more or less stable (&weak when installed on a 70mph Airknocker)
compared to a engine driven pump.
I bought my regulator from Wentworth Aircraft, they have hundreds and many
are in GREAT condition. I bought one with a Low Vac. Switch built in for
$75.00 and so have some of my friends who are building. I tested it and it
works fine. I just need to order a new garter filter and I'm set to go!
They also have the regular Vac. Filters and mounts for $10.00.
I hope this helps, and I would urge to purchase and install a regulator, and
if you need the restrictor for another gyro, then purchase it. Sorry to
dissapoint you.
Happy building,
Stein Bruch
RV6 N664SB - Wiring, Oil Lines - Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv6238(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: suction regulator vs. restrictor valve
Hey Guys,
Is a suction regulator necessary? I see aircraft spruce has a vacuum
restrictor valve for about $20.00 verses $200.00 for a suction regulator. I
have a stratus vacuum pump and am wondering if the pump will produce
excessive vacuum pressure without a regulator. If it does produce to much
vacuum can it be reduced with the less expensive restrictor valve? The pump
will drive a DG and an artificial horizon. Also perhaps I should mention
that
I plan to use 3/8 " OD tubing. Is this size adequate? Any input greatly
appreciated!
Bill Griffin RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
You can try,
http://www.flyfast-lopresti.com/boom_beam.htm
For STC stuff. His cost about 1k.
I have a PAR46 system I sell into the Glasair market for $550.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
Bruce
Can you suggest a vendor or refer me to a web site to learn more about
these
lamps?
Charlie Kuss
>
> If you really want lumens, switch to the HID Xenon system. It puts out
over
> 500k candle power and puts everything else to shame. It's a bit pricey
> though.
>
> Bruce
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
> Don, We did not rivet the brackets to the wheel pants. We attached the
wheel
> pants to the brackets with plate nuts..This way all we have to do to check
> the air presssure is to remove the forward part of the pant and remove a
few
> screws and back the back of the pant off. The pant is larger in the
center
> than it is at the forward end so we will have to pull the pant open to
chear
> the bracket but after watching my friend jack his plane up and remove the
> axel just to check the air it seems a much easer way and it looks good too
> because we only have two holes in the pant for the tow bar.
I've been watching this thread and have realized you fellas have gone to a
lot
of work to eliminate one tiny hole in the pant that can be covered with a
nice
little cap. I have a small hole in each wheel plant that allows me to stick
a
small socket through it to unscrew the cap on the stem. Then I use a valve
extension to screw onto the valve stem for checking and filling. I'm sure
you're
going to find other things on the airplane more important to pretty up than
the
tiny holes you're going to make for tire maintenance. While you guys are
doing
all of this unscrewing and screwing, mine will have been checked, filled,
and
back in business. I'll be flying long before you. Whew! Believe me, folks
who
don't have RVs will drool over your creations, even with the little holes in
the
pants.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Jim,
I need to drill those holes myself, in the main gear pants. How far out from
the axel did you locate yours?
BTW, my wheel pants are located in my shop, 20 miles from the airplane. I
can't seem to remember to measure when I get to the airport. All I want to
do is go flying.
Steve Soule
N227RV
-----Original Message----- I have a small hole in each wheel plant that
allows me to stick a small socket through it to unscrew the cap on the stem.
Then I use a valve
extension to screw onto the valve stem for checking and filling.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Marshall" <btmars(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | Nomex flight suits |
Haven't heard anyone mention flight boots: don't forget to not polish them.
Even in the Marine Corps, we were not allowed to put shoe polish on our
flight boots--too flammable.
As for hot, try gloves, helmet, survival vest, bullet bouncer, leather
combat boots, H46 cockpit at 120deg, and a nice warm, humid summer day in
Vietnam.
Bob Marshall
rv6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Tubes and Tires; was 6A nosegear ?'s |
I kept thinking that I was going to put holes in my wheel pants also. What a
pain to remove the wheelpants and fill the tires. I never have and never will
put a hole to fill the tires. If I had a tire fill hole I would never check the
brakes except at annual time. Not acceptable in my book. What I did do is
purchase the fancy Air Stop tubes (cost more than the tires) and good tires.
The air stops have been used on our field with hardly a fillup required and I
hope to get the same results when I install these tubes this weekend.
As for tires, buy the best you can afford. The original aero trainers had a
shimmy around 23 mph once I installed my wheel pants. This was controllable
with tire pressure and was all but gone once the pressure dropped to around 20.
Then I would fill them up to 30 and a month later do the same. When I rotated
the tires the shimmy was almost unbearable for the first 15 or 20 takeoffs and
then they got better. My next tires were 6 ply Condors and I really have to try
hard to get any gear leg shimmy out of them . A couple of planes on the field
are using retreads with great success. No shimmy, long life and with the air
stop tubes no tire fill ups. At my door yesterday I found a set of recapped
Goodyear Flight Custom II's and air stop tubes. Can't wait to put them on.
Gary
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I need to drill those holes myself, in the main gear pants. How far out from
> the axel did you locate yours?
>
> BTW, my wheel pants are located in my shop, 20 miles from the airplane. I
> can't seem to remember to measure when I get to the airport. All I want to
> do is go flying.
>
> Steve Soule
> N227RV
>
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tubes and Tires; was 6A nosegear ?'s |
Related to this thread, but different:
I assembled my tires/tubes/wheels for the RV-8 last night. I wasn't sure what
to do with the thin little knurled nut thingy I found on the base of the stem.
I'm using it as a lock-nut for the stem cap. Is this right? It didn't seem to
serve a purpose at the base of the stem.
Thx,
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Oil drain quick disconnect |
Folks,
Has anyone had any luck using the 'saf-air' or 'aeroquip' oil drain
quick disconnect on an RV6. Specifically (before I make my purchase) I was
wandering if I would be able to reach down and turn the disconnect to drain
the oil without removing the lower cowling.
Thanks in advance.
By all means........archive.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm (piddling around and prepping for
paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
I would like to echo Ralph Capen's negative comments about ABF Freight. I
had my Quick-build Fuselage and wing box shipped by them last February and
the day after the office secretary called me to let me know it had arrived
at the local dock, I recruited four buddies and we rented a truck after work
to take delivery. When we got there, a different shift was on duty and
nobody could tell me where my shipment was. In fact, they told me it hadn't
arrived yet! I was embarrassed, but my buddies understood. We left. The
next morning the office manager called to tell me that it had been there all
along. These people are clueless. I should have known that the "best"
Arkansas has to offer would be unacceptable (ABF = Arkansas Best Freight).
I'll not use them in the future.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect |
In a message dated 12/7/01 7:17:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
> Has anyone had any luck using the 'saf-air' or 'aeroquip' oil drain
> quick disconnect on an RV6. Specifically (before I make my purchase) I was
> wandering if I would be able to reach down and turn the disconnect to drain
>
> the oil without removing the lower cowling.
The Fumoto valve is able to do this, but I still recommend safety wiring the
handle which would be tough to do without removing the lower cowling.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Plan on attending the 2002 'Land of Enchantment' RV Fly-In |
From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Morning everyone.
I've starting planning the 2002 'Land of Enchantment' RV Fly-In.
For this one, while consciencely trying to maintain the 'laid
back/gentle pleasures' feel, I'm trying to promote it in a way that will
convince potential builders to vacation in the Las Cruces area at the
same time so that they can experience RVation at its very best,
experiencing firsthand just how hospitable and fun RV folk can be.
If you didn't get to attend this past October, it was wonderful. Not
terribly crowded, pleasant temperature and everyone was respectful of
each other planes. It was (IMHO) the best blend of scenery, food,
atmosphere, comradery and fellowship I've ever experienced at a fly-in.
We had the whole airport to ourselves. Three 7,000+ ft runways and over
100 RV's. In 2002 we fully expect there to be 200+ RVs (specifically
we're shooting for 202 in 2002 ).
Along the lines of convincing potential RV builders to attend, I've
established a few 'custom guest books' on the online brochure page where
those people who are willing to give a demo ride or two can put their
name on a list. There's also a list to sign if you're a potential
builder and plan on coming. You can see the page at:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/loe/loervfi.htm
If anyone reading this attended the 2001 event and would like to chime
in so that those who didn't might be convinced to in 2002...please do!!!
You have 322 days to prepare . See you there. Group photo at 12
noon in front of the FBO. 500+ people around the RV-7 would make for a
nice picture. I'm bringing a wide angle lens.
Have a great weekend,
Doug Reeves
VAF-WWW (RV-6 fuse)
PS. Larry Pardue's review of 2001 event at:
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Chile.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect |
Casper has the Safeair quick drain and you can reach it if have to without the
bottom cowl off, but it's a good idea every 50 hrs ( oil change interval) to
pull the lower cowl anyway just to see what's going on in there.
Garry "Casper"
RGray67968(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Folks,
> Has anyone had any luck using the 'saf-air' or 'aeroquip' oil drain
> quick disconnect on an RV6. Specifically (before I make my purchase) I was
> wandering if I would be able to reach down and turn the disconnect to drain
> the oil without removing the lower cowling.
> Thanks in advance.
> By all means........archive.
> Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm (piddling around and prepping for
> paint)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV10 Info with Pics |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: New RV10 Info with Pics
>
> Posted today!
> Scroll to the bottom of the page
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int.htm
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil separator |
Paul, the SS Pot scrubbers are put in the oil separator can to slow down the
velocity of the oil mist and give it something to stick to, as the AS&S can is
hollow. I used a 2" hole saw and cut a hole in the front face, shoved in the
scrubbers and put a cover on it with Pro Seal and closed end rivets. I also ran
the 1/4" drain line to the top of my carb air box using clear urethane tube so
I
could monitor what was coming out, so far (15 Hrs) nothing.
Garry "Casper"
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I think I missed this one before...what's the pot scrubbers for again? And
> if you run the lines back to the engine, does it not work or something?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: oil separator
>
> >
> > Gary,
> > I know you've posted this a 100 times, but I have a question. How did you
> > cut the front
> > of the breather for the access plate? Did you use a fly cutter , sacrifice
> > the cover,
> > and then cut out another cover out of aluminum or did you use the fly
> cutter
> > without a pilot?
> >
> >
> > Ed Cole
> > Maxim Integrated Products
> > Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:Vanremog(at)AOL.COM]
> > > Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:21 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: oil separator
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/15/00 3:46:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > brencotool(at)abq.com writes:
> > >
> > > << I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
> > > equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
> > > collected from the separator back to ? >>
> > >
> > > The only people that seem to have problems with the use of oil
> separators
> > > are
> > > those that insist on draining the condensate back into the engine
> somehow.
> > >
> > > The best way is not to. Get the cheapie ACS unit and modify it to put
> an
> > > access plate on it (similar to the fuel tank end plates) so that you can
> > > stuff two large stainless steel pot scrubber pads in it. Plumb the
> drain
> > > to
> > > a Matco brake fluid reservoir or something similar with a Saf-air (sp)
> or
> > > Curtis valve so you can drain it when you do your oil change.
> > >
> > > It may help you baseline and monitor general engine condition if you
> keep
> > > track of the volume drained over time.
> > >
> > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> > > vanremog(at)aol.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Maxim Home Page:
> > http://www.maxim-ic.com
> > Products Page:
> > http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> > New Products:
> > http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> > Datasheets:
> > http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> > The information contained in this message is confidential
> > and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> > solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> > recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> > or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> > If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> > by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have an RV4 and just started having some problems with my brakes. When on
the ground they work fine and no leaks, but when in the air the right brake
doesn't hold pressure. After landing I have to pump it 2-3 times to build
the pressure back up. I've bleed the brakes numerous times from the bottom
with a pump till fluid has flowed out the top of the reservoir and still
can't seem to find the problem.
Thanks
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tubes and Tires; was 6A nosegear ?'s |
In a message dated 12/7/01 6:47:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
lcbowen(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I wasn't sure what to do with the thin little knurled nut thingy I found
on the base of the stem. I'm using it as a lock-nut for the stem cap. >>
I checked with Van's and they told me to throw them away.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV4 Kit for sale |
Fellow Listers:
One of our members has the following RV-4 kit for sale:
kit includes
1) empennage (built)
2) wing kit (built)
3) fuselage (bulkheads built and ready for the jig)
4) electtic elevator trim
5) leading edge landing lights
$9500.00
Contact me off list and I'll pass the info along.
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit comfort |
--- Keith Hughes wrote:
>
> Just a note to weigh in. I had a good twelve years wearing a
> flightsuit
> every day. My suggestion to those who want to wear one is, go for
> comfort.
> In the AF we called them "bags".
This thread has brought to mind the curious way people are. I spent a
little time in the Navy flying aircrew in P-3s in WestPac. Out there
(Hawaii, P.I., Guam, Dodge) we spent most of our time with the top of
the flight suit unzipped and tied around our waist. We couldn't wait
to get out of the bag (yes, Navy term too).
I still have one - awaiting the time my -6 gets in the air (at least
for test flights. I'll remember why we hated them, I imagine, in short
order).
My issued leather, fur-collar flight jacket spent most of its time
hanging in my closet. Just wasn't warm enough for the temps we kept
the P-3 tube at to keep the avionics from frying in their own plastic.
Nice, warm parka from Osan, Korea was just the ticket.
Do I wish I had that flight jacket now? You bet.
I guess you want what you don't have, and vice versa. Curious.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
DNA
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Control Stick |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
I got my grubbies on some really good stuff for you guys looking for
bent control sticks...
I am communications with the manufacturer, but they are in Italy, so
making your own might be the way to go... If someone out there decides
to start making some, I'll take a set (for my finders fee)... 8-)
http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm#bentcontrolsticks
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: landing lights |
Just for your information, the specified lifetime of the GE 4509, the
most-often used landing light for small aircraft, is only 25 hours.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flightsuit comfort |
Suggestion from a former army helicopter pilot:
Flight suit can help you look cool and help protect you, but I suggest you
don't wear a frilly colored scarf poked into the top of it like the Air
Force pilots did (don't know about the Navy, never served with anyone but
Air Force and Marines.) That might suggest or advertise your sexual
preference (if you know what I mean, I am not making a judgement).
John "JT" Helms
(just poking fun at you air farce guys.... I'll gladly trade Marine jokes
with you over a beer.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flightsuit comfort
--- Keith Hughes wrote:
>
> Just a note to weigh in. I had a good twelve years wearing a
> flightsuit
> every day. My suggestion to those who want to wear one is, go for
> comfort.
> In the AF we called them "bags".
This thread has brought to mind the curious way people are. I spent a
little time in the Navy flying aircrew in P-3s in WestPac. Out there
(Hawaii, P.I., Guam, Dodge) we spent most of our time with the top of
the flight suit unzipped and tied around our waist. We couldn't wait
to get out of the bag (yes, Navy term too).
I still have one - awaiting the time my -6 gets in the air (at least
for test flights. I'll remember why we hated them, I imagine, in short
order).
My issued leather, fur-collar flight jacket spent most of its time
hanging in my closet. Just wasn't warm enough for the temps we kept
the P-3 tube at to keep the avionics from frying in their own plastic.
Nice, warm parka from Osan, Korea was just the ticket.
Do I wish I had that flight jacket now? You bet.
I guess you want what you don't have, and vice versa. Curious.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
DNA
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: brake problem |
Carey,
Are your master cylinders mounted with the springs pointed down? You may know
this, but the early RV-4's were built with the cylinders upside down and required
that you remove the brake masters, turn them right side uperly when they are
upside down. I modified mine to turn them around several years ago. Since
then, bleeding is no problem.
This may not be your problem, just checking.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: brake problem
I have an RV4 and just started having some problems with my brakes. When on
the ground they work fine and no leaks, but when in the air the right brake
doesn't hold pressure. After landing I have to pump it 2-3 times to build
the pressure back up. I've bleed the brakes numerous times from the bottom
with a pump till fluid has flowed out the top of the reservoir and still
can't seem to find the problem.
Thanks
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect |
> In a message dated 12/7/01 7:17:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
> > Has anyone had any luck using the 'saf-air' or 'aeroquip' oil drain
>
> > quick disconnect on an RV6. Specifically (before I make my
> purchase) I was
> > wandering if I would be able to reach down and turn the disconnect
> to drain
> >
> > the oil without removing the lower cowling.
It works on an RV-6 with nom problem. I have been know to drain the
oil and not change the filter on long cross country trips. Done this 3
times. I have also done this once on a friends RV-6A. It is almost
impossible to reach the valve on the RV-6A. Yes you need a long hose.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect - christen inverted oil??? |
speaking about quick oil drain, anyone found a solution that works with the
christen inverted oil system?
Thanks,
Moshe Lichtman
N57GR RV6 new flying
N262GR RV6A for sale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil drain quick disconnect
> In a message dated 12/7/01 7:17:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
> > Has anyone had any luck using the 'saf-air' or 'aeroquip' oil drain
>
> > quick disconnect on an RV6. Specifically (before I make my
> purchase) I was
> > wandering if I would be able to reach down and turn the disconnect
> to drain
> >
> > the oil without removing the lower cowling.
It works on an RV-6 with nom problem. I have been know to drain the
oil and not change the filter on long cross country trips. Done this 3
times. I have also done this once on a friends RV-6A. It is almost
impossible to reach the valve on the RV-6A. Yes you need a long hose.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Building two fuel tanks simultaneously |
A question for the assembled multitudes who have 'been there, done that'...
I'm building a -6 and am working on the wings one at a time. I'm now on the fuel
tank for the left wing, I've fitted and drilled the ribs, skin, and baffle
to
each other, and the baffle and skin to the main spar...have almost finished deburring
everything and am working on the fuel senders and other 'hardware' that
goes on and between the ribs.
If I wait to do the right wing fuel tank until I've gotten to the appropriate stage
of building the right wing, the Proseal will probably go bad (it'll take
me
at least 9 months, at the rate I'm going, to finish the left wing and get to that
point on the right wing). Plus, I've heard that there are folks who will build
your tanks for you, which tells me it might be possible for me to build the right
tank without having the right wing ready for it. Has anyone built the tanks
simultaneously, without having the wings to go along with them? If so, did it
work out OK for you, and do you have any hints to help? I've searched the
archives several different ways and didn't find anything.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (left wing tank)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
We did not go this way to eliminate a hole! We have friends who are flying
their RV2As and know how much trouble it is to check the air and the brakes .
This was our solution and if you don,t like it that is your problem. When a
lister poses a question and he gets an answer' like it or not that is what
this list is all about.
Rollie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: FYI regarding ABF freight systems shipping my MT prop |
In a message dated 12/5/2001 5:25:45 AM Pacific Standard Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> My MT three blade prop arrived in June in good order. Last month, I
> received a nasty letter from ABF stating that I owed an additional eighty
> three dollars and that it was past due etc. I promptly called the local
> office to attempt resolution...the local billing agent was rude and very
> obnoxious - I finally got through to his supervisor who informed me that my
> delivery charge was recalculated after the delivery was complete.
>
> I have notified Vans of this matter and they have been attempting to get it
> resolved - however, my dealings with ABF and their associates has been less
> than civil.
>
> Meanwhile, PLEASE REQUEST A DIFFERENT CARRIER!
>
> If they can't get the billing correct - can you trust them with your
> airplane parts? Think of it this way...you just got your hours flown off
> after getting your airworthyness certificate - you return from a fly-in to
> find that Lycoming recalculated the cost of their engine that you bought
> and
> now they want an extra five hundred dollars.
>
Same thing happen to me when my fusalage kit arrived I got an additional
charge from ABF, after trying to do the right thing to resolve this problem
they left me no other choice that to tell them to get screwed.......the good
thing is they will go away
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect - christen inverted oil??? |
In a message dated 12/7/2001 6:18:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> speaking about quick oil drain, anyone found a solution that works with the
> christen inverted oil system?
>
>
What's wrong with the already used set up? The cap cap comes off just as
quick.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
In a message dated 12/7/2001 6:53:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Rquinn1(at)aol.com writes:
> We did not go this way to eliminate a hole! We have friends who are flying
>
> their RV2As and know how much trouble it is to check the air and the brakes
> .
> This was our solution and if you don,t like it that is your problem. When
> a
> lister poses a question and he gets an answer' like it or not that is what
>
> this list is all about.
> Rollie
>
What is an RV2A???
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Building two fuel tanks simultaneously |
John,
I faced the same dilema about 9 months ago. I bit the bullet and
watched my proseal expire, then bought a new batch when I was ready for
both tanks. Another $40 or so for fresh proseal is a drop in the bucket
in this project, and well spent on peace of mind. Plus, you can use the
expired stuff on less critical applications down the road (sealing the
firewall, installing NACA air vents, etc.) so it won't go to waste.
As far as building the tanks without the wings being done, here's my
experience: I did one tank by strapping the tank skin down to the wing,
marked it, removed and trimmed it, remounted it, removed and trimmed
some more, ad nasuem, until I had a perfect fit. Then, when I mounted
the finished tank to the wing, I found a small gap between the tank skin
and main skin (probably caused by the thickness of the layer of proseal
between the ribs and rear baffle.) For the second wing, I mounted the
skin and strapped it down, leaving about 1/8 inch over hang on the top
and bottom main skins. I then drilled the skin, and assembled the
tank. When I put the finished tank on the wing, the skin was still too
big, but I was able to trim it more precisely and get a better fit with
the main skins.
Hope that made some sense. Of course, I did the wings by drilling the
main skins before the leading edge and tank skins, which the opposite of
how many do it. It worked well for me.
And, FWIW, as the recent thread stated, working with proseal is not as
bad as it is made out to be.
Hope this helps some.
Jeff Point
-6 fuselage
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | F-624 Dimensions |
I've searched the plans and combed the archives, but cannot find:
what is the proper length of the F-624 rib? The length of this rib
determines the position (tilt) of the F-623, and this is what I am
really after. Maybe it's there and I'm missing it, can somebody please
direct me to it?
Thanks
Jeff Point
-6 fuselage
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "netbrick" <netbrick(at)gateway.net> |
Subject: | Priming Pushrod Tubes |
I have purchased a two part self -etching primer to pour inside the
tubing. My question is how or whether to
prime/treat the inside part of the tubing where the
"tubing end piece" fits inside. Also, seems the "tubing end piece"
should be primed/treated. Problem is---how to do this and still have
the parts fit together.
Thanks in advance,
David Kirby
RV-6AQB
175 hrs.
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: F-624 Dimensions |
Jeff,
I am building a RV-6A. I clamped the F-623 in place using the skin as a
location guide(perhaps use any scrap or even a piece of 1/8" plywood so that
you have the F-623 at the correct angle to match the other bottoms on the
baggage ribs) as you want the baggage bottom to be flat. Allow for the skin
build-up at the rear where the F-623 attaches as the skin overlaps the next
rear skin (I had to build a funny "y" shaped piece out of scrap to be able
to flair and clamp everything really nice in this area). Then fit the F-624
rib in place. My F-624 measures 21.5" more or less, this is difficult to
measure on a finished fuselage, but it's close.
I hope this helps.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-624 Dimensions
>
> I've searched the plans and combed the archives, but cannot find:
>
> what is the proper length of the F-624 rib? The length of this rib
> determines the position (tilt) of the F-623, and this is what I am
> really after. Maybe it's there and I'm missing it, can somebody please
> direct me to it?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuselage
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Carey,
I heard of a similar problem once.... it finally turned out to be a bad
bleeder valve (was sucking in flight). They replaced it and solved their
problem. Might be similar, try switching valves from side to side (or just
replacing the right one) and see if that does it. It's a cheap first step.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: brake problem
>
> I have an RV4 and just started having some problems with my brakes. When
on
> the ground they work fine and no leaks, but when in the air the right
brake
> doesn't hold pressure. After landing I have to pump it 2-3 times to build
> the pressure back up. I've bleed the brakes numerous times from the
bottom
> with a pump till fluid has flowed out the top of the reservoir and still
> can't seem to find the problem.
> Thanks
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Pushrod Tubes |
David,
What I plan to do is to rivet the ends on while the primer is still wet.
Neil
-7QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "netbrick" <netbrick(at)gateway.net>
Subject: RV-List: Priming Pushrod Tubes
>
> I have purchased a two part self -etching primer to pour inside the
> tubing. My question is how or whether to
> prime/treat the inside part of the tubing where the
> "tubing end piece" fits inside. Also, seems the "tubing end piece"
> should be primed/treated. Problem is---how to do this and still have
> the parts fit together.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> David Kirby
> RV-6AQB
> 175 hrs.
> Griffin, Ga.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | FYI regarding ABF freight systems |
One piece of advice when you pay your freight bill. Write on the
check "Full and Complete Payment for shipping services and freight
charges". When you sign the bill of lading put the same statement. If
they try to bring up any further charges later you just show them the
cancelled check and bill of lading and point out that they accepted that
statement at the time they cashed the check and they don't have a leg to
stand on. This all usually comes from a freight audit at the terminal and
what classification the item was shipped under. You are supposed to pay a
certain amount for a specific type of shipment. (airplane parts,
etc...) However there is usually a special rate involved with the shipper
but the freight company doesn't usually file the amendment to the published
freight rate for that particular shipment. There is probably a freight
person on the list who can explain it better but I am going from memory for
about 3/4 of a million dollars of past freight adjustments that the
financially strapped freight company tried to get from my company about 15
years ago that I was responsible for. Turns out we didn't pay. We proved
they failed to file the amendments so it was there loss. AL
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | F-624 Dimensions |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Jeff:
The f623 will go straight from the f605 to the f606. then the f624 will
go from the longeron to the f623.
I don't think the length matters. just fit your plane.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
> I've searched the plans and combed the archives, but cannot find:
>
> what is the proper length of the F-624 rib? The length of this rib
> determines the position (tilt) of the F-623, and this is what I am
> really after. Maybe it's there and I'm missing it, can somebody
> please
> direct me to it?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuselage
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Priming Pushrod Tubes |
I had no problem with the assembly after priming the tubes. Light mallet
taps is all it takes. GO ahead and prime!
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: netbrick [mailto:netbrick(at)gateway.net]
Subject: RV-List: Priming Pushrod Tubes
I have purchased a two part self -etching primer to pour inside the
tubing. My question is how or whether to
prime/treat the inside part of the tubing where the
"tubing end piece" fits inside. Also, seems the "tubing end piece"
should be primed/treated. Problem is---how to do this and still have
the parts fit together.
Thanks in advance,
David Kirby
RV-6AQB
175 hrs.
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
Andy,
A group of RV guys that share a hangar here use a device sold by Radio Shack
(cat # RSU 10037778) that hooks to the phone line and allows you to remotely
control up to 10 appliances. You just call it up, punch in you access code,
and turn on the heater in you plane. Check it out.
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Pushrod Tubes |
Hmm, I had to use rather vigorous mallet "taps" to get my "rod end pieces"
to slip into the corresponding aluminum tubes for the aileron push rods.
I primed the tube first and then primed and put the rod end piece in "wet".
Was a tighter than expected fit. Be forewarned. I still don't figure it
would be worthwhile masking off the inside of the tubing to do otherwise
though.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Man.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Priming Pushrod Tubes
<TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
>
> I had no problem with the assembly after priming the tubes. Light mallet
> taps is all it takes. GO ahead and prime!
>
> Todd Wenzel
> Delafield, WI
> RV-8AQB - Fuse
> mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: netbrick [mailto:netbrick(at)gateway.net]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Priming Pushrod Tubes
>
>
> I have purchased a two part self -etching primer to pour inside the
> tubing. My question is how or whether to
> prime/treat the inside part of the tubing where the
> "tubing end piece" fits inside. Also, seems the "tubing end piece"
> should be primed/treated. Problem is---how to do this and still have
> the parts fit together.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> David Kirby
> RV-6AQB
> 175 hrs.
> Griffin, Ga.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Subject: | Re: 6A nosegear ?'s |
Rollie,
What is a RV2A and does it have brakes on the nosewheel?
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rquinn1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A nosegear ?'s
>
> We did not go this way to eliminate a hole! We have friends who are
flying
> their RV2As and know how much trouble it is to check the air and the
brakes .
> This was our solution and if you don,t like it that is your problem.
When a
> lister poses a question and he gets an answer' like it or not that is
what
> this list is all about.
> Rollie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | hole to hole separation - 6A F696 tank bracket |
Is there a rule - like the edge distance rule - regarding how close 2
holes can be? I need to put a 3/16" bolt hole centered about 5/16" from
a 1/8" rivet.
I am trying to mount the F-696 angle bracket to the fuselage, that's
the one that attaches to the thick "ear" of aluminum sticking out of the
inboard tank rib just behind the leading edge of the tank. A 3/16 bolt
is supposed to go thru the bracket and thru the 1/8 angle that
re-inforces the fuselage on the inside.
My problem is that the QB fuselage already has those 1/8" rivets in
place and the AN3 bolt that mounts the F-696 to the fuse is kind of
close.
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | removing the primer |
Today after almost 3 weeks of not flying (bad), and 5 below zero temperature,
and 1 1/2 hours of preheating with a sump heater (also bad, it should have been
twice as long) my carbureted, standard magneto ignition 0-360 fired right up on
the 2nd turn of the prop.
Starting procedure was simply 2 pumps of the throttle and turn the key. (In
warmer weather I just give 1 pump of the throttle.) This was the test I was
waiting for to see if the primer was needed to start up in extreme conditions.
I wasn't, and so now the primer is going away. Thats a lot of fittings and fuel
lines that can no longer leak, and even a few electric lines that can also no
longer do their nasty thing.
Anybody need a used primer solenoid and a bunch of useless (to me) 1/8" fuel
lines that will fit an 0-360 let me know. Otherwise I'll just cut up the lines
and maybe find some use for the AN fittings on the RV-X.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
> A group of RV guys that share a hangar here use a device sold by Radio Shack
> (cat # RSU 10037778) that hooks to the phone line and allows you to remotely
> control up to 10 appliances. You just call it up, punch in you access code,
> and turn on the heater in you plane. Check it out.
>
This is great and is similar to the X-10 device (which is a bit cheaper). The
problem is there are no phone lines to the hangars, nor an FBO who can be paid
for such a service.
Phone lines can be brought in, but that is a pricey and involved project which
did not enjoy much enthusiasm from the others on the field whom I hoped to share
the job with.
The other option is Bob Reiff's pager activated switch but it's expensive ($400)
and will only control 1 airplane.
What I'd really like is something like the X-10 that will respond to a radio or
a
cell phone signal. Or a build it yourself Bob Reiff type box.
I'll start checking with some of the electronics parts dealers. This is off the
shelf technology that's got to be available in some form.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi Listers,
I have a question regarding removal of Cylinders on a (IV)O 360 A1A.
This engine comes from a Brantly B2B and has not been in use fora number
of years. Three cylinders pulled fine, the last one does not seem to
have any intention of letting go from it's piston.
Has anyone any suggestions?
Does anyone have any idea what it takes to mod this engine to a standard
A1A? The injection has already been removed as has the starter.
The exact history of the engine is unknown at this particular moment,
but it's believed to have come from a Brantly B2B model which crashed in
the UK. The owner apperently was a Mr C E Rose.
Any info someone might have is highly appreciated.
email direct to VansRV4GRVMJ(at)BTinternet.com
Thanks,
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce On-Line Ordering |
I have tried to use their online order system a number of times over the past
months and have never been able to get it to take an order. I don't even try
anymore. I just call their toll free.
Bill RV6 wiring
Balto. MD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | ELT trip trouble |
I'm using an ACK E-01 ELT in my RV-4 and I've been having some trouble with
it. When I key my com mic it trips, sometimes it even trips when a near by
aircraft key's thier mic.
The problem was intermittent during the first 30hrs of flight but during the
last 2 flights I've had to hold the reset button on the ELT when I transmit
to avoid false alarms.
I thought maybe the cable running from the ELT in the baggage compartment to
the panel switch was acting like an antenna and causing the trip. I
disconnected the cable and still got a trip.
Any ideas on what's causing this and how to cure it?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
OK, I now have 52. hrs on my new RV-6A, it does fly great, and I am looking for
November 29, 2001 - December 08, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ly