RV-Archive.digest.vol-lz
December 08, 2001 - December 16, 2001
a good paint shop. I am located near INDY and ideally a shop w/in
250.nm would be nice. Anybody out there have any suggestions regards a reputable
paint shop in my area?
I would appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Larry, N939LT @ 2R2 (replaced 3SY)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <reiff(at)netwurx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
> The other option is Bob Reiff's pager activated switch but it's expensive
($400)
> and will only control 1 airplane.
It's $369. We are distributing it for a guy from Oshkosh who makes them.
>
> What I'd really like is something like the X-10 that will respond to a
radio or a
> cell phone signal. Or a build it yourself Bob Reiff type box.
>
> I'll start checking with some of the electronics parts dealers. This is
off the
> shelf technology that's got to be available in some form.
Careful...he's got a patent.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
262-968-2342
www.ReiffPreheat.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What the best way to accurately determine the toe in or toe out on my
RV-8? Had I thought I would ever use trig, I would have paid attention
more in class!
My plan is to mount the wheels and tires before flipping it right side
up for the last time. Yes, I know it will be tall....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <reiff(at)netwurx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus |
> The other option is Bob Reiff's pager activated switch but it's expensive
($400)
> and will only control 1 airplane.
PS - are you the fellow I quoted $275 for 10 units the other day?
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
262-968-2342
www.ReiffPreheat.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If the valves seal, you can try using a compression checker fitting and
slowly apply air pressure. A safer variation is to weld a grease fitting
into an old plug and use a grease gun to supply the pressure.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RV-List: IVO-360 A1A
Hi Listers,
I have a question regarding removal of Cylinders on a (IV)O 360 A1A.
This engine comes from a Brantly B2B and has not been in use fora number
of years. Three cylinders pulled fine, the last one does not seem to
have any intention of letting go from it's piston.
Has anyone any suggestions?
Does anyone have any idea what it takes to mod this engine to a standard
A1A? The injection has already been removed as has the starter.
The exact history of the engine is unknown at this particular moment,
but it's believed to have come from a Brantly B2B model which crashed in
the UK. The owner apperently was a Mr C E Rose.
Any info someone might have is highly appreciated.
email direct to VansRV4GRVMJ(at)BTinternet.com
Thanks,
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT trip trouble |
Pat Perry wrote:
>
> I'm using an ACK E-01 ELT in my RV-4 and I've been having some trouble with
> it. When I key my com mic it trips, sometimes it even trips when a near by
> aircraft key's thier mic.
> Any ideas on what's causing this and how to cure it?
Pat:
It could be a lot of different things, but mysterious interactions
between apparently unrelated systems like that are often caused by
ground loops. That is, not all systems have their grounds at the same
voltage level. A typical symptom would be something like your oil
pressure gauge changing a few psi when you turn on the landing light.
(Keying your transmitter does greatly increase the current demand of the
radio.) A lot of people run a power wire to each device, but just
ground each system to the nearest point on the airframe, expecting it to
conduct all the ground return current. That invites ground loops, not to
mention the possibility of nasty electrochemistry at the grounding site.
Single point grounding is the way to avoid ground loops. I'm running
separate power and ground wires for EVERY electrical device and all
ground wires return to the same physical grounding block. The extra
ground wires add a tad more weight and cost, but I refuse to run any
current thru the air frame - it's sloppy.
Don't get me started...
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil drain quick disconnect - christen inverted oil??? |
I have the Christen inverted oil system on the two RV-6 aircraft I have built
and had to make a special fitting to accommodate an Aeroquip quick drain. I
could see no other way to mount a drain, unless we wanted to disconnect a
hose each time for the oil change.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S N250GS
PHX DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will Beatty" <wbeatty(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | WANTED: RV-3 Kit, Full or Partial |
I am looking for an RV-3 Tail Kit but if you have more or know of
someone who has a full or partial kit they would be willing to sell
please e mail me or call me at 303 588 3601.
Thanks,
Will Beatty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount |
I actually DID look through the archives first on this but couldn't come up
with anything. I started mounting my Aeroflash position lite/strobe this
weekend but didn't like the way it fit. No mounting instructions came with
the lights. How did you guys do it? Is there a mountin bracket or
instructions that I missed? Thanks for the help.
BTW, I contributed to Matt this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I got the fiberglass molded pieces from Vans for this purpose.
Glassed them in place, works nice.
Cecil
writes:
>
>
> I actually DID look through the archives first on this but couldn't
> come up
> with anything. I started mounting my Aeroflash position lite/strobe
> this
> weekend but didn't like the way it fit. No mounting instructions
> came with
> the lights. How did you guys do it? Is there a mountin bracket or
> instructions that I missed? Thanks for the help.
>
>
> BTW, I contributed to Matt this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus (getting off topic) |
Bob wrote:
>
> > What I'd really like is something like the X-10 that will respond to a
> > radio or a cell phone signal. Or a build it yourself Bob Reiff type box.
> >
> > I'll start checking with some of the electronics parts dealers. This is
> > off the shelf technology that's got to be available in some form.
>
> Careful...he's got a patent.
His patent can't stop you from building your own identical system from
scratch. It can only stop you from profiting by it.
-RB4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus (getting off topic) |
In that case, look up the patent and build it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: electronic gurus (getting off topic)
Bob wrote:
>
> > What I'd really like is something like the X-10 that will respond to a
> > radio or a cell phone signal. Or a build it yourself Bob Reiff type
box.
> >
> > I'll start checking with some of the electronics parts dealers. This is
> > off the shelf technology that's got to be available in some form.
>
> Careful...he's got a patent.
His patent can't stop you from building your own identical system from
scratch. It can only stop you from profiting by it.
-RB4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building two fuel tanks simultaneously |
John,
Store your Pro Seal in the refrig. It won't go bad.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Building two fuel tanks simultaneously
>
> A question for the assembled multitudes who have 'been there, done
that'...
>
> I'm building a -6 and am working on the wings one at a time. I'm now on
the fuel tank for the left wing, I've fitted and drilled the ribs, skin, and
baffle to
> each other, and the baffle and skin to the main spar...have almost
finished deburring everything and am working on the fuel senders and other
'hardware' that
> goes on and between the ribs.
>
> If I wait to do the right wing fuel tank until I've gotten to the
appropriate stage of building the right wing, the Proseal will probably go
bad (it'll take me
> at least 9 months, at the rate I'm going, to finish the left wing and get
to that point on the right wing). Plus, I've heard that there are folks who
will build
> your tanks for you, which tells me it might be possible for me to build
the right tank without having the right wing ready for it. Has anyone built
the tanks
> simultaneously, without having the wings to go along with them? If so,
did it work out OK for you, and do you have any hints to help? I've
searched the
> archives several different ways and didn't find anything.
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (left wing tank)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount |
Scott,
Scroll down to the bottom of this page to see how I mounted the
Aeroflash units:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish5.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=======================
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I actually DID look through the archives first on this but couldn't come up
> with anything. I started mounting my Aeroflash position lite/strobe this
> weekend but didn't like the way it fit. No mounting instructions came with
> the lights. How did you guys do it? Is there a mountin bracket or
> instructions that I missed? Thanks for the help.
________________________________________________________________________________
When designating left and right mags do manuals and instructions mean L&R as
seated in the plane, or L&R as if you are standing in front of the prop and
facing the firewall?.In other words, which left is left?
Bill , RV6 not much left.
Balto. MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT trip trouble |
But the ELT does not share the aircraft electrical system - it has it's own
battery and is completely self contained - it almost has to be an internal
problem with the ELT, unless perhaps there's a wiring problem with the panel
mounted remote system (assuming it has this feature).
Dave
tom sargent wrote:
>
> Pat Perry wrote:
> >
> > I'm using an ACK E-01 ELT in my RV-4 and I've been having some trouble with
> > it. When I key my com mic it trips, sometimes it even trips when a near by
> > aircraft key's thier mic.
>
> > Any ideas on what's causing this and how to cure it?
>
> Pat:
> It could be a lot of different things, but mysterious interactions
> between apparently unrelated systems like that are often caused by
> ground loops. That is, not all systems have their grounds at the same
> voltage level. A typical symptom would be something like your oil
> pressure gauge changing a few psi when you turn on the landing light.
> (Keying your transmitter does greatly increase the current demand of the
> radio.) A lot of people run a power wire to each device, but just
> ground each system to the nearest point on the airframe, expecting it to
> conduct all the ground return current. That invites ground loops, not to
> mention the possibility of nasty electrochemistry at the grounding site.
>
> Single point grounding is the way to avoid ground loops. I'm running
> separate power and ground wires for EVERY electrical device and all
> ground wires return to the same physical grounding block. The extra
> ground wires add a tad more weight and cost, but I refuse to run any
> current thru the air frame - it's sloppy.
> Don't get me started...
> --
> Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 match drilled tank skin fit |
Hi list,
I am working on the tanks on an 8. This is a match drilled wing kit and
the sequence is different from the GO videos. The z brackets are made,
the baffle and ribs are drilled to the z brackets, nutplates installed
on z brackets. Then the ribs were removed and fitted to the tank skins.
Then the skins were then mounted to the wing. There was a gap between
the tank and the leading edge. Some of it was resolved by trimming the
423 splice plate as it was too wide. Replaced the skins and got the gap
removed but decided I better peel up one side and cleco the ribs to the
baffle and see how it fits. Gap reappeared. I then elongated the
inboard z bracket holes that attach to the spar and is better. But I
think I will have to enlarge the holes in the spar for the other z
brackets and enlarge the holes in the z brackets to the baffle plate to
provide enough lateral movement to fit the skins properly.
Any problems with going a little oversize in the holes through the spar
to the z bracket and z bracket to baffle plate? I have thought about
the possibility of things shifting due to vibration etc. I already
drilled one spar oversized, if it is a problem I can redo the z brackets
and always go to an AN 4 bolt instead of a AN3( would have to enlarge
the holes more).
Any thoughts?
I checked the archives but couldn't find this one in there.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Tambs
________________________________________________________________________________
Lycoming"s Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual part no. 60294-7, Section 1
Introduction. 1-7. In this manual all references to locations of various
components will be designated when viewing the engine from the rear. The
power take off end is considered the front and the accessory drive end the
rear. the oil sump is considered the bottom. Cylinders are numbered from
front to rear with odd numbered cylinders on the right side. Hope this
helps. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Break in conclusion |
An end to a sad story. Hope he gets what is comming to him. I have
absolutely no use for a thief. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
The orientation almost always considers you standing behind the aircraft
looking forward. If not, it usually states,"looking aft".
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnetos
>
> When designating left and right mags do manuals and instructions mean L&R
as
> seated in the plane, or L&R as if you are standing in front of the prop
and
> facing the firewall?.In other words, which left is left?
> Bill , RV6 not much left.
> Balto. MD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
and numbers later next week.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the help on this left right business. I thought the orientation
was indeed from rear looking forward. What caused me to question this is upon
reading Jeff Roses instructions for installing his electonic ignition unit he
indicates the timing housing to be mounted in place of the right mag. I had
Bart Lalond build my engine and purchased the Rose system from Bart. The
engine arrived with the right mag installed and a cover plate and the
mounting lugs on the left side. Obviously Bart intended for the timing
housing to be mounted on the left side contrary to Rose's instructions. In
addition,upon rotating the prop flange to bring cylinder #1 to TDC there is a
loud snap which I can only assume to be the impulse coupling from the mag
which as I mentioned Bart mounted on the right side. I have never heard of an
impulse coupler on the right mag but what else could be making the snap noise
when # 1 is at TDC? I'll call Bart or Jeff in the morning to get this
clarified. In the meantime does anyone have any idea why things have been set
up this way?
Thanks
Bill RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
The only reason to leave a mag with an impulse coupling still installed is
to allow you to hand prop the airplane in the event of a dead battery.
Engines with Electronic ignitions or mags with 'shower of sparks' cannot be
hand proped.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Helped Matt Dralle? Help yourself. |
Hello fellow rv-listers,
This is a little promotional email regarding my titanium "Ti-downs", so if
you have no interest in my titanium Ti-downs, please delete this now, and
accept my appology for wasting your time.
Once in a while, when the sales of my Ti-downs are slow (this time of
year), I offer a "special wintertime" deal for a little while, and get as
much business as I can handle for a while.
I've committed to sharing a commercial space at OSH (with two other
rv-listers), and could use an increase in sales now to help pay for the
experience. It'll be my first time at OSH, so I'm really looking forward to
being there, showing off my titanium Ti-downs. I'm gonna hunker down this
winter/spring and try to produce a few hundered sets to take with me to
that huge fly-in.
enuf about that...here's the special "contributor list" deal...
If you're on the contributor list (and I've printed out a copy), I'll knock
$15 off the already rv-listers discounted price of $80/Ti-down kit. This is
$5 cheaper than I've EVER sold them.
If you're not on the Contributor list, but plan to donate before the
follow-up list comes out, I'll accept that too, trusting you to do the
right thing (I'll be able to check after the updated list does come out).
I'll offer this deal till the end of this year, or till I run out of
enventory, whichever comes first. I'm not going to even make mention of
this deal on my titanium Ti-down website, so mention this email when you
order if you want to take advantage of it.
To eliminate any price confusion, here's my "contributor list" deal...
#5165-3K (Ti-down "kit") = $65.00 (choice of 14 bag colors)
#5165-3 (Ti-down "set") = $55.00 (no ropes or bag)
If you'd like them "lightly polished", reduce the prices above by $5.00
There's no sales tax via mailorder, and I'll pay for the shipping (for US
customers).
Oh yeah, by the way...if you don't know what "Ti-downs" are, they're the
worlds best carry-along tie down system...and made of 6/4 alloy TITANIUM
metal...they kind of speak for themselves, when you hold em in your hand,
and know that no one has bent or broken one yet...
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
Albany, Oregon
http://www.airtimemfg.com
p.s. Hope to see you at OSH. Please say hi if you see me there.
pp.s. I'll probably offer the Ti-downs at OSH for a "special show price" of
$80.00/kit, plus tax...
ppp.s. Thanks Matt, for a great list!, and I hope this spamlike email is ok
with you.
-------------
>Dear Listers,
>
>I would like to personally thank each and every one of you that has
>contributed this year to the 2001 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from
>the list of names below, there were many, many generous people from the
>Lists this time around and I want everyone to know just how much your
>support has meant to me. The list of members below includes those that
>have contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that
>have contributed throughout the year.
>
>As the Lists have grown so much over the last few years, so have the
>equipment costs as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet
>connectivity. Your generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the
>year, truly makes the continued operation, and more importantly, the
>continued upgrade and improvement of these aviation-related services
>directly possible. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of your
>generosity! Thank you!!
>
>For those of you that didn't quite get your Contribution in on time for
>this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I will
>be posting a follow-up List of Contributors #2 for 2001 in a few weeks to
>make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the generous
>List members. One last time, the addresses to make a Contribution are:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>or
> Matronics Email Lists
> c/o Matt Dralle
> PO Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551-0347
>
>Finally, as of today's count we reached a 22.0% Contribution level, only a
>tad shy of last year's level. With the checks and credit card
>Contributions that usually come in between now and the end of the year,
>we'll surly close that gap. Thank you!
>
-------snipped generous suppliers---------
>
>Once again, thank you to everyone that made this year's List Fund Raiser a
>success!!
>
>Best regards for the upcoming year.
>
>Your Email List Administrator,
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4 Builder #1763
>
>
>============= 2001 List of Contributors #1 ============
----------snipped 804 generous names---------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Irwin" <rv6eric(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | TCAP Fly-in photo's |
Hi all. I attended the Treasure Coast Airpark RV Fly-in this past weekend.
Many thanks to Bernie Kerr for organizing the event. I have published the
photos I took on a web page so if you want to see them, go to:
http://www.geocities.com/esirwin
Eric Irwin
Coral Springs, FL
RV-6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: first flight |
Way to go Stan!!
Congratulations
cheers
Todd
>--> RV8-List message posted by: N188rv(at)aol.com
>
>Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
>and numbers later next week.
>
>Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helped Matt Dralle? Help yourself. |
> enuf about that...here's the special "contributor list" deal...
>
> If you're on the contributor list (and I've printed out a copy), I'll
knock
> $15 off the already rv-listers discounted price of $80/Ti-down kit. This
is
> $5 cheaper than I've EVER sold them.
> If you're not on the Contributor list, but plan to donate before the
> follow-up list comes out, I'll accept that too, trusting you to do the
> right thing (I'll be able to check after the updated list does come out).
Hey Guys..
I can attest to the fact that Randy's tie-downs are fantastic. I've got a
pair stashed in the back of my -4 and they weigh practically nothing are
bullet-proof.
The price is right!!! Buy a million of 'em!!
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Helped Matt Dralle? Help yourself. |
I must admit that at SWRFI at Abilene the wind got up to 75 MPH friday night
My plane was secured Saturday morning. I like the titanium Tie Downs. Never
leave home without them. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 match drilled tank skin fit |
Larry,
Sorry if I wasn't clear. With the match drilled wing you get the spars
and wing ribs mounted in the jig, then drill the main skins on, both top
and bottom. Then take off the bottoms skins and build the leading edge
and mount it.
Then you go to the fuel tanks. The z brackets are drilled to the spar
first then nutplates are fastened to the outboard 6 nutplates. Attach z
brackets to the spar. Then you drill and cleco the baffle to the z
brackets. Next you lay up the tank skin to the baffle with no ribs on
the baffle to test fit. Then take the skin off and fit the ribs to the
baffle and drill them to the baffle. Next the ribs are removed from the
baffle and clecoed to the tank skin. This is done in the cradle and
then the skin and ribs are clecoed to the baffle (ribs are not clecoed
to the baffle at this point). This is where the gap between the tank
skin and leading edge skin became a problem. The 423 splice plate
between the tank skin and leading edge skin was trimmed down (originally
was 7/8" as called out in the plans, ended up at 11/16" to clear the
flange of the outboard t-703 rib. when the bolts were removed from the
z brackets I could close the gap. However the holes through the baffle
and ribs and z brackets are already drilled, so now there is a gap when
the bolts are in the z brackets.
The only way to reduce the gap is to get side to side motion. So, I
can enlarge the holes in the spar so the bolts dont bind on the spar
enroute to the nutplate on the z bracket. I can't enlarge the holes on
the z bracket to the spar because the nutplates are already in place and
enlarging those holes would offset the bolt to the nutplate. Only if
the spar hole is enlarged can I get the bolts in without binding and
without causing the gap to reappear.
Don't think this is any more clear, I'll give Vans a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Jim Tambs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hnchambers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB for sale |
Nancy, Do you have a current offer under consideration?
Howard
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: first flight |
Congratulations. Be a little bit late with my 80303. Hope to be airborne in
2002.
Stephan Servatius
RV 8
Germany
N188rv(at)aol.com schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: N188rv(at)aol.com
>
> Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
> and numbers later next week.
>
> Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLinn30012(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Still looking for an oil injection system for my |
IO-320
Hi Chuck, I have a Christen inverted oil system that I removed from my RV-4.
It has about 370 hours of flight time on it. Price is $1,100. Let me know
if you are still looking for a system.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
I believe you can handprop with the light speed system.
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> The only reason to leave a mag with an impulse coupling still installed is
> to allow you to hand prop the airplane in the event of a dead battery.
>
> Engines with Electronic ignitions or mags with 'shower of sparks' cannot be
> hand proped.
>
> Bruce
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Stan,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (47 hours)
Niantic, CT
>From: N188rv(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: first flight
>Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 22:00:52 EST
>
>
>Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward
>pictures
>and numbers later next week.
>
>Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
Dear Bruce,
Yes one can hand prop an engine with a shower of sparks. I had to do it while
down on the Baja tip with an Aztec. That Lyc IO-540 had a bad starter and I
had my wife hold the starter switch in to excite the shower of sparks and it
started on the second swing of the blades. I would hesitate to prop a three
blade set up though.
Greg in PHX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <reiff(at)netwurx.net> |
| Subject: | Web site corrections |
Fellow RV builders:
Since I am building an RV4, I have found the RV-List to be a valuable
resource which I have occasionally used and contributed to. I never
have and never will use this list to promote our products. However,
defending our products and service is a different matter. One of our
customers has elected take his grievance public on his "heavily visited
RV web site" and implies an intent to use the RV-List for the same, so I
am compelled to provide "the rest of the story". This is done only as a
last resort after he refused two requests to correct the inaccuracies
and omissions in his web site. The following exchange should be self
explanatory, but feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Apologies to anyone who feels this is an inappropriate use of the list.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
262-968-2342
www.ReiffPreheat.com
Sam,
I am sorry to hear that you are not satisfied with the handling of your
claim, and appreciate you telling me who you are and what your
intentions are. However, my position was based on the facts of the case
and I'm not inclined to alter it based on the threat of publicity.
It may not be the reaction you are looking for, but I have no problem
with you publicizing your experiences with our products and service
provided they are accurate and complete. Unfortunately, your web site
is deceptive due to several inaccuracies, and omissions of some key
facts. See below...
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
262-968-2342
www.ReiffPreheat.com
Good morning,
As a result of the events following the failure of the HotPadd on my
RV-6, I regrettably have had to make the following update on "The RV
Journal" web site concerning the HotPadd installation and my experience
with the warranty claim.
Here is the link to the update:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html#HotPadd update
The text of the update is also attached following this message.
This is especially unfortunate since "The RV Journal" website is one of
the most heavily visited RV sites on the internet, and I also contribute
often to the RV mail-list which has in excess of 1200 members. As a
businessman myself, I fully realize the value of total product support,
and appreciate the unintended ramifications when total and satisfactory
support is not provided.
Best regards,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
text of revision to article about the HotPadd:
Update, 12/6/01;
When power was applied to the HotPadd at the first sign of cool weather
in November, 2001, the heater was inoperative. After confirming that the
heater was still under the two year warranty,
Note the two yr term is the best in the industry. Our competitors
have half the warranty despite being priced 35% higher. Since you
submitted the claim 11 days prior to expiration of our two yr warranty,
there would have been no coverage at all with competitive units.
I contacted Reiff and
ordered a replacement, credit for which was to be forthcoming when the
old heater was returned.
Incorrect - we do not give credit or promise to give credit for
inoperative heaters which we have not had an opportunity to inspect.
The warranty requires you to return the inoperative unit for evaluation.
This was discussed with you and you wanted to get a replacement right
away so you agreed to pay for the replacement, then return the inop unit
for evaluation and a refund would be given if our examination showed the
unit to be defective. This was also stated on the invoice for the
replacement unit.
The new heater was installed, and the original
unit was returned to Reiif. A few days later the old heater came back to
me with a note stating that the warranty would not be fully honored due
to an error in the original installation!
Here's what the note on the credit memo actually said -
"Ref Inv 20705 11/19/01. Rec'd inop unit for eval. Solder joints ok.
Overheated section evidenced by discoloration, corresponds to loose
gray
paint on back side. Pad should not be bonded to paint as heat can
loosen
paint and cause pad overheat and failure. Paint must be removed and
pad
bonded to bare metal per installation instructions. Inop unit
returned to
customer. 50% goodwill discount allowed on replacement."
As you know I also explained further in an email:
"Hopefully the new pad was not installed over the paint or it will
probably fail prematurely also. The heat from the pad tends to loosen
the paint, and of course the pad comes off with it and then overheats
since it is not on a heat sink any longer."
The instructions state that all paint should be removed from the area on
the sump where the heater is to be installed. I had used a combination
of paint thinner
Paint remover works better (per installation instructions).
and a wire brush in a drill to remove the paint, and
all that remained was a very small area that stubbornly remained in
spite of the solvent and brush. When the old heater was removed from the
sump, it was still firmly attached by the adhesive and there was no
evidence that the pad had detached from the sump prior to the removal of
the heater.
Actually there is evidence...the discolored gray area on the pad shows
where the pad came loose and overheated. This area corresponds exactly
with the loose paint still on the back of the pad. If the pad were
bonded to metal it would not come loose, overheat and turn gray.
Here is the back of the heater (photo of old heater) as it appeared when
removed from the engine sump. As you can tell, there are only trace
amounts of gray paint on the pad, and these are the only areas where
paint remained on the sump where the glue was applied.
It would be nice to also include a photo of the other side showing the
gray overheated section that corresponds to the section with the paint.
That would also show what happened to the red paint you applied all over
the pad.
According to Reiff, this was sufficient to deem the installation to be
improper and for them to renege on their warranty. Their claim is that
this is sufficient paint to prevent the pad from properly transferring
heat to the sump and caused overheating of the pad and failure.
Absolutely false - evidently you still misunderstand the reason for
the heater failure and denial of full credit. As stated in your credit
memo "Pad should not be bonded to paint as heat can loosen paint and
cause pad overheat and failure", and in a previous email "The heat from
the pad tends to loosen the paint, and of course the pad comes off with
it and then overheats since it is not on a heat sink any longer."
That's far different than what you say above.
Omitted facts:
The Installation instructions clearly state the following:
"Proper surface preparation is CRITICAL to the quality of the
adhesive bond and the life of the heater pad. Remove the paint from the
oil sump. This is easily done by tracing the outline of the pad with a
felt tip pen, then using a wire brush in a Dremel tool, or paint
remover, to remove the paint inside the drawn outline."
They also contain the following prominently placed at the top center
of the front page: "Failure to follow these instructions may result in
product failure and warranty invalidation. If any of these instructions
are unclear, please call for clarification before beginning."
Renege??? The bottom line is the warranty excludes failures due to
incorrect installation. Pretty standard stuff for most every product
sold in the USA. The instructions are very explicit about the need to
remove the paint, and what will happen if you don't. You admit you did
not remove all the paint. The heater overheated at the precise location
where it was bonded over paint. Your actions voided the warranty but we
granted a 50% goodwill credit anyway, thinking we were being generous
and that you would be pleased. Evidently it wasn't enough.
We absolutely do honor the warranty if in fact the product is
defective. I have been known to bend the warranty considerably in the
customer's favor when there is a real defect.
Obviously, this development was a disappointment since I have personally
convinced two hangar mates to buy Reiff products and no doubt several
(many?) others have been sold as a result of this web site. I now no
longer recommend this product due to the following reasons:
1) The heater is apparently intolerant to anything other than a perfect
installation. In my opinion, if this is truly the case, this fragility
is unacceptable for an item that is attached semi-permanently to an
engine.
The HotPad is not "fragile" but like any high performance, high watt
density heater if it does not have a heat sink it will overheat and burn
out. If you do not follow the directions installing an electric water
heater and fail to fill it with water before power up, and the heating
element burns out, would you call it fragile? Would you fault the
manufacturer for not replacing it free?
The fact that lifespan is dependent on the quality of the bonding job
and surface preparation is explicitly stated in the HotPad installation
instructions. This is a characteristic of any of the silicone pad
style sump heaters, not just ours. In fact, the higher the watt density
the more important the heat sink is. Our HotPad is designed to 10 watts
per square inch. Competitors use up to 18 w/in.
2) I am disappointed in the warranty service extended by Reiff Products.
All the blame for the heater failure was placed on the installation. A
"goodwill" credit for half the cost of the new unit was made, but a much
more satisfactory show of goodwill would have been to replace the unit
at no charge and at least acknowledge that there may have been a problem
with the heater.
3) By reading between the lines on the Reiff website, the failure I
experienced apparently is not an isolated case. Reiff has recently
introduced a new HotStrip heater which reportedly is not susceptible to
the type of failure I supposedly incurred. Interesting.....
I never said yours is an isolated case. Looking back the past 12
months I see exactly 6 HotPads returned for warranty claims including
yours. That's 6 out of about 1000 sold. Let's see the details:
1) Put RTV adhesive over pressure sensitive adhesive and ruined
pad. 50% credit given.
2) 4 mos beyond 2 yr warranty, bonded over paint. 10% credit given.
3) Loose solder joint. 100% credit.
4) Loose solder joint. 100% credit.
5) Loose solder joint. 100% credit.
6) (Yours) Bonded over paint, 50% credit.
As for the inference that introducing the new HotStrip oil sump heater
somehow validates your claim that the HotPad is defective, I guess using
that logic the RV6 is defective - or why is the RV7 replacing it? I
reserve the right to improve our products even if they ain't broke.
Even though the rate of problems with the HotPad is low, does that mean
we should not try to improve it? The current rate is good, but zero
sounds better to me. And it is not necessary to read between the lines
as I am very candid in the website about the design goals of the
HotStrip, one of which is to make installation more foolproof. This
case illustrates that we can provide instructions, but can't make the
customer follow them. A heater that will run a long time even if the
customer disregards the instructions is an improvement, correct?
I still think a sump heater is a good idea. It is with regret that I can
no longer recommend the HotPadd, and I suggest potential purchasers of
Reiff products be aware of possible lack of full cooperation from Reiff
when warranty claims arise.
If "cooperation" means handing out free heaters to customers who elect
to disregard the instructions, then I guess we are not cooperative.
However, I don't think the customers who DO follow the instructions
would appreciate subsidizing those who don't.
We accept our responsibility to produce a defect free product and
replace defective products 2 years from purchase, the best warranty in
our industry. We feel the customer should also accept his
responsibility to follow the installation instructions. If after reading
over the instructions you were unwilling to accept the responsibility
for installing it correctly, it could have been returned for a full
refund.
The standard we use for customer service is..."How would I want to be
treated in the same situation?" I believe we met the standard and have
treated you more than fairly. It is unfortunate that you do not agree.
Best Regards,
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
262-968-2342
www.ReiffPreheat.com
Sales wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> Yes we got it. We sent it back 12/1 with a credit memo containing
the
> following note:
>
> "Ref Inv 20705 11/19/01. Rec'd inop unit for eval. Solder joints
ok.
> Overheated section evidenced by discoloration, corresponds to loose
gray
> paint on back side. Pad should not be bonded to paint as heat can
loosen
> paint and cause pad overheat and failure. Paint must be removed and
pad
> bonded to bare metal per installation instructions. Inop unit
returned to
> customer. 50% goodwill discount allowed on replacement."
>
> Hopefully the new pad was not installed over the paint or it will
probably
> fail prematurely also. The heat from the pad tends to loosen the
paint, and
> of course the pad comes off with it and then overheats since it is
not on a
> heat sink any longer.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob Reiff
> Reiff Preheat Systems
> 262-968-2342
> www.ReiffPreheat.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 12:51 PM
> Subject: returned HotPadd
>
> > Good afternoon,
> >
> > Please confirm that you have received the sump heater I recently
> > returned for warranty replacement. I could not see any indication
that
> > the failure was due to installation problems.
> >
> > I have received the new heater, installed it and it is working
fine.
> >
> > I assume that a credit is forthcoming on my bankcard account.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT trip trouble |
Your right Dave, the unit is completely separate from the rest of the
aircraft electrical system which has a single ground bus with separate runs
from all electrical equipment. The only point of contact between the ELT
and the airframe is the antenna mount which is just forward of the roll bar
mount under the canopy.
The panel mount remote system is installed and was my initial focus when the
problem started. I figured the wire for the remote trip was picking up the
com radio transmittion and tripping the ELT. I disconnected the wires for
the remot at the ELT and still got the same false trip.
My next guess is maybe the coax shield is tied to a common internal to the
ELT that is shared with the electronic trip circuit also internal to the
ELT. That would be about the only place where there would be enough wire to
induce noise enough to cause problems. It seems other people would have the
same problem with this ELT if thats the way they are put together but I have
not heard of any similar complaints.
I'm going to try to get in contact with ACK.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT trip trouble
>Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 17:47:50 -0800
>
>
>But the ELT does not share the aircraft electrical system - it has it's own
>battery and is completely self contained - it almost has to be an internal
>problem with the ELT, unless perhaps there's a wiring problem with the
>panel
>mounted remote system (assuming it has this feature).
>
>Dave
>
>tom sargent wrote:
>
> >
> > Pat Perry wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm using an ACK E-01 ELT in my RV-4 and I've been having some trouble
>with
> > > it. When I key my com mic it trips, sometimes it even trips when a
>near by
> > > aircraft key's thier mic.
> >
> > > Any ideas on what's causing this and how to cure it?
> >
> > Pat:
> > It could be a lot of different things, but mysterious
>interactions
> > between apparently unrelated systems like that are often caused by
> > ground loops. That is, not all systems have their grounds at the same
> > voltage level. A typical symptom would be something like your oil
> > pressure gauge changing a few psi when you turn on the landing light.
> > (Keying your transmitter does greatly increase the current demand of the
> > radio.) A lot of people run a power wire to each device, but just
> > ground each system to the nearest point on the airframe, expecting it to
> > conduct all the ground return current. That invites ground loops, not to
> > mention the possibility of nasty electrochemistry at the grounding site.
> >
> > Single point grounding is the way to avoid ground loops. I'm
>running
> > separate power and ground wires for EVERY electrical device and all
> > ground wires return to the same physical grounding block. The extra
> > ground wires add a tad more weight and cost, but I refuse to run any
> > current thru the air frame - it's sloppy.
> > Don't get me started...
> > --
> > Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
OK. The point I was trying to make is that in your normal 'dead battery'
situation, you can't hand prop unless you have a mag with an impluse
coupler.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnetos
Dear Bruce,
Yes one can hand prop an engine with a shower of sparks. I had to do it
while
down on the Baja tip with an Aztec. That Lyc IO-540 had a bad starter and I
had my wife hold the starter switch in to excite the shower of sparks and it
started on the second swing of the blades. I would hesitate to prop a three
blade set up though.
Greg in PHX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | ELT trip trouble |
I'm building a Glasair III, one of those plastic airplanes. RMI (radio
magnetic interference) is a big concern of ours. Several of our group have
had problems with the ACK ELT triggering when excited by nearby
transmitters. So much so that most won't install an ACK.
If your problem is RMI, and your antennas are correctly spaced, your only
solution will be to upgrade to a higher quality ELT.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Perry
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT trip trouble
Your right Dave, the unit is completely separate from the rest of the
aircraft electrical system which has a single ground bus with separate runs
from all electrical equipment. The only point of contact between the ELT
and the airframe is the antenna mount which is just forward of the roll bar
mount under the canopy.
The panel mount remote system is installed and was my initial focus when the
problem started. I figured the wire for the remote trip was picking up the
com radio transmittion and tripping the ELT. I disconnected the wires for
the remot at the ELT and still got the same false trip.
My next guess is maybe the coax shield is tied to a common internal to the
ELT that is shared with the electronic trip circuit also internal to the
ELT. That would be about the only place where there would be enough wire to
induce noise enough to cause problems. It seems other people would have the
same problem with this ELT if thats the way they are put together but I have
not heard of any similar complaints.
I'm going to try to get in contact with ACK.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | break in, re too bad he wasn't shot. |
Nah, that would be too quick. Much better would have been for him to, while
being chased, run into a Prop. Maybe if he lost an arm or 2 and then laid
on the ground slowly bleeding to death. For it to be perfect poetry, Scott
would be able to step on his throat for the last few moments.
Sorry, but this kind of thing really gets me.
Don Mei
23 Kings Lane
Essex, CT 06426
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and
hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series
of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary."
-H. L. Mencken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount |
Sam,
Thanks for the pictures! Is that wood that's on top of the green foam in
the picture? That's what I'm really having trouble with, exactly what is
the casing of the strobe unit being screw/rivited/welded into?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount
Scott,
Scroll down to the bottom of this page to see how I mounted the
Aeroflash units:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish5.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=======================
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I actually DID look through the archives first on this but couldn't come
up
> with anything. I started mounting my Aeroflash position lite/strobe this
> weekend but didn't like the way it fit. No mounting instructions came
with
> the lights. How did you guys do it? Is there a mountin bracket or
> instructions that I missed? Thanks for the help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Still looking for an oil injection system for my |
IO-320
Question: Why did you remove it?
Bruce.
RV-4 Builder
-------
Bruce Naylor
Principal Developer
CPR Technologies Ltd
(+44 (0)1793 766550 * bruce@cpr-tech.co.uk
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: DLinn30012(at)aol.com
To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Still looking for an oil injection system for
my IO-320
--> RV4-List message posted by: DLinn30012(at)aol.com
Hi Chuck, I have a Christen inverted oil system that I removed from
my RV-4.
It has about 370 hours of flight time on it. Price is $1,100. Let
me know
if you are still looking for a system.
Dennis
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | New tool endorsement |
Listers,
I found a new tool that I have found extremely useful for removing oil
filters.
Sears has introduced a new strap wrench set. It comes with two different
size wrenches
for $19.95. They are basically a plastic handle with an adjustable rubber
strap.
I used the large one this weekend to remove the oil filter from my RV6A and
it worked great !
The last oil filter I removed had to be taken off with a hammer and chisel.
I had purchased
an old fashion filter remover but the size I bought wouldn't fit the
diameter of the oil filter.
With the strap wrench, removal was a non event. I highly recommend it.
It would make a great stocking stuffer for Christmas if you drop the hint
now.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/9/01 18:24, Rv6238(at)aol.com at Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> When designating left and right mags do manuals and instructions mean L&R as
> seated in the plane, or L&R as if you are standing in front of the prop and
> facing the firewall?.In other words, which left is left?
> Bill , RV6 not much left.
> Balto. MD
>
Pilots are always in command. Left is pilot's left (when flying).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount |
Yes, Scott, the "base" of the mount is 1/4" plywood that I had left over
from some long-gone R/C plane project. I painted the wood with epoxy
resin, and the lights are attached with sheet metal screws right into
the wood. If you wanted to get a little fancier, you could install some
plate nuts (or tee-nuts) in the wood so you could use bolts instead of
screws.
I had a reader tell me that you can dissolve the foam after the glass
layups have cured with a few drops of MEK.
The mounts turned out very nicely and the lights are still securely
mounted after 330 flight hours.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===============================
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
> Thanks for the pictures! Is that wood that's on top of the green foam in
> the picture? That's what I'm really having trouble with, exactly what is
> the casing of the strobe unit being screw/rivited/welded into?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroflash wingtip lites/strobe mount
>
>
> Scott,
>
> Scroll down to the bottom of this page to see how I mounted the
> Aeroflash units:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish5.html
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> =======================
>
> "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I actually DID look through the archives first on this but couldn't come
> up
> > with anything. I started mounting my Aeroflash position lite/strobe this
> > weekend but didn't like the way it fit. No mounting instructions came
> with
> > the lights. How did you guys do it? Is there a mountin bracket or
> > instructions that I missed? Thanks for the help.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Ti Downs (was) Helped Matt |
I'll second how good these ti downs are. They hardly weigh anything and are works
of art.
How good do they work??? See:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/429055/guest.phtml
Look near the bottom and you'll see 3 RV's with their feet all wet (as in submerged)
During the storm that dumped all that water, we had reported 60mph winds (felt
like alot more than that) with the ti down in fairly soft sand. (Let's not mention
the hail, lighting, and reported waterspout within a 1/2 mile :-O
Boy and I glad they held (and they did). Plus they weren't as heavy as what the
other guys were using.....(I think at least one of them now have a set).
If you don't have a set of these, take advantage of this offer and get a set, even
if your still building. You'll be glad you did.
Laird (no, I don't work for Randy ;-)
RV-6 SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sun, Dec 9, 2001 7:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Helped Matt Dralle? Help yourself.
Hello fellow rv-listers,
snip
To eliminate any price confusion, here's my "contributor list" deal...
#5165-3K (Ti-down "kit") = $65.00 (choice of 14 bag colors)
#5165-3 (Ti-down "set") = $55.00 (no ropes or bag)
If you'd like them "lightly polished", reduce the prices above by $5.00
There's no sales tax via mailorder, and I'll pay for the shipping (for US
customers).
Oh yeah, by the way...if you don't know what "Ti-downs" are, they're the
worlds best carry-along tie down system...and made of 6/4 alloy TITANIUM
metal...they kind of speak for themselves, when you hold em in your hand,
and know that no one has bent or broken one yet...
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
Albany, Oregon
http://www.airtimemfg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Duct tape observations |
Just a quick comment to users of duct tape for temporary fitting of skins,
canopy etc. etc. I know I certainly couldn't build without it.
I have found that the Ace Hardware brand works the best, it holds well but
leaves little to no adhesive behind when removed. All others I have tried do;
including 3M, Home Depot brand etc.
Dave Burnham
Finishing 6A
NW Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
Bruce,
Do you have a web site or something where we can learn more about the
$550.00 system?
scot Stambaugh
>
>You can try,
>
>http://www.flyfast-lopresti.com/boom_beam.htm
>
>For STC stuff. His cost about 1k.
>
>I have a PAR46 system I sell into the Glasair market for $550.
>
>Bruce
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: landing lights
>
>
>Bruce
> Can you suggest a vendor or refer me to a web site to learn more about
>these
>lamps?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> > If you really want lumens, switch to the HID Xenon system. It puts out
>over
> > 500k candle power and puts everything else to shame. It's a bit pricey
> > though.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Many A-65 engines do not have any impulses and they have been starting for
over 60 years. It does take some skill to prop a non-starter, non-impulse
engine But it has been and is still being done.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Magnetos
OK. The point I was trying to make is that in your normal 'dead battery'
situation, you can't hand prop unless you have a mag with an impluse
coupler.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnetos
Dear Bruce,
Yes one can hand prop an engine with a shower of sparks. I had to do it
while
down on the Baja tip with an Aztec. That Lyc IO-540 had a bad starter and I
had my wife hold the starter switch in to excite the shower of sparks and it
started on the second swing of the blades. I would hesitate to prop a three
blade set up though.
Greg in PHX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Priming Pushrod Tubes |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
12/10/2001 05:07:39 PM
On my -4, I alodined the push-pull tubes (inside and out), but primed only
the exterior. I did, however, use structural adhesive (epoxy) in addition
to structural pop rivets to attach the end pieces to the tube.
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "netbrick" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 12/08/01 06:38 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Priming Pushrod Tubes
|
I have purchased a two part self -etching primer to pour inside the
tubing. My question is how or whether to
prime/treat the inside part of the tubing where the
"tubing end piece" fits inside. Also, seems the "tubing end piece"
should be primed/treated. Problem is---how to do this and still have
the parts fit together.
Thanks in advance,
David Kirby
RV-6AQB
175 hrs.
Griffin, Ga.
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: break in, re too bad he wasn't shot. |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: break in, re too bad he wasn't shot.
>
> Nah, that would be too quick. Much better would have been for him to,
while
> being chased, run into a Prop.
I wouldn't be surprised if the victim has to PROVE conclusively that any of
the victim's belongings found at the perp's place or sold by the perp belong
to the victim, or the perp gets to keep them. SO: get letter and number
stamps, and mark each and every tool and part (if possible) with your three
initials and last four of your social security number. Not the whole
number, you don't want them to take your identity. Take pix of the tool
with the marking visible. Unreal? Burglary victim in San Antonio
couldn't get his TV back from ex-friend after obvious breakin. No record of
SN of set. Let alone the tools from garage.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Old memories... Holding on to the lift strut of a bright yellow Cub and hand
proping a C-65 from behind on my first solo cross country - too many decades
ago. To bad they don't teach that stuff any more.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnetos
Many A-65 engines do not have any impulses and they have been starting for
over 60 years. It does take some skill to prop a non-starter, non-impulse
engine But it has been and is still being done.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
They still do, Bruce!
That was my favorite method for propping our Cub........just two years
ago........... :-)
However, an A-65 is easier to flip through than an O-320. =8
0
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, but hopefully there is another Cub in store
somewhere down the line....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==========================
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
> Old memories... Holding on to the lift strut of a bright yellow Cub and hand
> proping a C-65 from behind on my first solo cross country - too many decades
> ago. To bad they don't teach that stuff any more.
>
> Bruce
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnetos
>
>
> Many A-65 engines do not have any impulses and they have been starting for
> over 60 years. It does take some skill to prop a non-starter, non-impulse
> engine But it has been and is still being done.
>
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
> Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
> www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: break in, re too bad he wasn't shot. |
I had everything engraved with my company name and phone number city and
state in case they take them out of state, i also recorded and reported the
model and serial numbers on all tools that had them. this isn't the 1st time
i've been a victum of burglary. i learned from the 1st couple of times.
scott
tampa
turkish law enforcer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | missing spark on one magneto |
The other day I was getting ready to fly and during the runup I
discovered that the #4 upper spark plug wasn't firing. The engine ran
rough on the left magneto and the exhaust temp dropped to zero.
Thinking the plug was fouled I taxied back to the hangar and popped the
cowl. The top plug was wet but not fouled. So I took off the lower
cowl and the lower plug was sooty but also not fouled. Then I swapped
the upper and lower plugs and ran up the engine. The upper #4 plug
still would not fire.
So it seems to me the problem lies with either the left magneto or the
lead to the upper plug. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to
proceed in troubleshooting from here? How is it possible for the
magneto to fire on three plugs and not on the fourth? I was thinking of
swapping the #4 leads between the magnetos to further isolate the
problem.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Maybe I've been looking at plans for too long today and my brain is
fried, but can someone please tell me where to find the measurement is
for the 5/8 inch rudder cable hole in the F-602 bulkhead?
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6 Fuselage N187CF (reserved)
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: missing spark on one magneto |
I had this exact problem a couple of years ago. It turned out to be the
lead to the plug. Find someone with a hi-tension lead tester and check
the harness. Each individual spark plug lead can be changed.
Gary
Nancy Jean Burkholder wrote:
>
>The other day I was getting ready to fly and during the runup I
>discovered that the #4 upper spark plug wasn't firing. The engine ran
>rough on the left magneto and the exhaust temp dropped to zero.
>Thinking the plug was fouled I taxied back to the hangar and popped the
>cowl. The top plug was wet but not fouled. So I took off the lower
>cowl and the lower plug was sooty but also not fouled. Then I swapped
>the upper and lower plugs and ran up the engine. The upper #4 plug
>still would not fire.
>
>So it seems to me the problem lies with either the left magneto or the
>lead to the upper plug. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to
>proceed in troubleshooting from here? How is it possible for the
>magneto to fire on three plugs and not on the fourth? I was thinking of
>swapping the #4 leads between the magnetos to further isolate the
>problem.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Sheet #25
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-602
>
> Maybe I've been looking at plans for too long today and my brain is
> fried, but can someone please tell me where to find the measurement is
> for the 5/8 inch rudder cable hole in the F-602 bulkhead?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 Fuselage N187CF (reserved)
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: missing spark on one magneto |
You have the right idea to switch leads. You can also use an ohm meter to
check the continuity of the lead.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
Subject: RV-List: missing spark on one magneto
The other day I was getting ready to fly and during the runup I
discovered that the #4 upper spark plug wasn't firing. The engine ran
rough on the left magneto and the exhaust temp dropped to zero.
Thinking the plug was fouled I taxied back to the hangar and popped the
cowl. The top plug was wet but not fouled. So I took off the lower
cowl and the lower plug was sooty but also not fouled. Then I swapped
the upper and lower plugs and ran up the engine. The upper #4 plug
still would not fire.
So it seems to me the problem lies with either the left magneto or the
lead to the upper plug. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to
proceed in troubleshooting from here? How is it possible for the
magneto to fire on three plugs and not on the fourth? I was thinking of
swapping the #4 leads between the magnetos to further isolate the
problem.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Irwin" <rv6eric(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | TCAP Fly-in photo's |
Some of you may have been unable to view the photos I posted at
http://www.geocities.com/esirwin. I learned today that the problem occurs
because GeoCities only allows 3GB data transfer per month measured on an
hourly basis. I didn't know about this...besides, who would ever think they
would limit traffic to my site which displays their ads? Anyway, if you get
locked out of the web site below, you can either wait an hour and try again,
or you can view the photos at http://members.home.net/rv6eric/TCAP. I don't
know how long I'll be able to keep the photos at that URL since @Home is
supposed to be shutting down operations soon.
Let me know if anyone has problems viewing the photos.
Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Irwin
Subject: RV-List: TCAP Fly-in photo's
Hi all. I attended the Treasure Coast Airpark RV Fly-in this past weekend.
Many thanks to Bernie Kerr for organizing the event. I have published the
photos I took on a web page so if you want to see them, go to:
http://www.geocities.com/esirwin
Eric Irwin
Coral Springs, FL
RV-6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: 8 match drilled tank skin fit |
I think I follow now.
I don't know. I might be tempted to go with the gap for now. You could
fill it in with proseal later and nobody would be the wiser after paint.
What did Van's say?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:09 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 match drilled tank skin fit
>
>
>
> Larry,
>
> Sorry if I wasn't clear. With the match drilled wing you get
> the spars and wing ribs mounted in the jig, then drill the
> main skins on, both top and bottom. Then take off the
> bottoms skins and build the leading edge and mount it.
>
> Then you go to the fuel tanks. The z brackets are drilled
> to the spar first then nutplates are fastened to the outboard
> 6 nutplates. Attach z brackets to the spar. Then you drill
> and cleco the baffle to the z brackets. Next you lay up the
> tank skin to the baffle with no ribs on the baffle to test
> fit. Then take the skin off and fit the ribs to the baffle
> and drill them to the baffle. Next the ribs are removed from
> the baffle and clecoed to the tank skin. This is done in the
> cradle and then the skin and ribs are clecoed to the baffle
> (ribs are not clecoed to the baffle at this point). This is
> where the gap between the tank skin and leading edge skin
> became a problem. The 423 splice plate between the tank skin
> and leading edge skin was trimmed down (originally was 7/8"
> as called out in the plans, ended up at 11/16" to clear the
> flange of the outboard t-703 rib. when the bolts were
> removed from the z brackets I could close the gap. However
> the holes through the baffle and ribs and z brackets are
> already drilled, so now there is a gap when the bolts are in
> the z brackets.
>
> The only way to reduce the gap is to get side to side
> motion. So, I can enlarge the holes in the spar so the bolts
> dont bind on the spar enroute to the nutplate on the z
> bracket. I can't enlarge the holes on the z bracket to the
> spar because the nutplates are already in place and enlarging
> those holes would offset the bolt to the nutplate. Only if
> the spar hole is enlarged can I get the bolts in without
> binding and without causing the gap to reappear. Don't think
> this is any more clear, I'll give Vans a call tomorrow.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Tambs
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | elevator clearing HS skin |
Listers -
Did anyone have to trim Horizontal Stabilizer skin to get the elevator
counterweight arm to clear the skin where the skin sticks out to attach the
HS fiberglass? With the 13/16th rod end bearing length described in the
plans, my elevators hit the skin. I tried moving the end bearings out some,
but I'm not happy with the gap size between HS and elevator or the resulting
limitations on elevator horn travel. I can't see any problem with taking a
1/4 inch of skin off and reducing the size of the fiberglass. Am I missing
anything?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I've been working on the fuel system for my -8A, putting the pump and
gascolator in the wing root (as described on the List a while back). I
have been waiting for several months to get a hold of one of the new
solid state interrupter pumps, the Facet 40007E. I've called a number of
dealers and have gotten frustrated because nobody stocks them yet and
couldn't tell me when I would be able to get one. Anyway, I relayed my
problem directly to Facet-Purolator (who's customer / tech support guy,
Craig, has been exceptionally helpful in answering my questions over the
past few months). I politely explained that I had been unsuccessful in
getting the fuel pump from dealers, and that I needed one asap as I'm
doing my fuel system installation on my "RV" (didn't tell them it was the
kind that flies...). Anyway they explained that they normally only do
batches of a certain type pump at a time on their assembly line, and
there's not much demand for the 40007E because it uses the large 1/4"
pipe thread fittings. But they said they'd run a 40007E model through
the line especially for me. The next day they shipped it to me UPS and
did it all for FREE.....no cost for the pump or shipping.....it is marked
"Free Sample." I don't expect they'll do this for everybody, but I just
wanted to put in a good word for them because that kind of service is
rare and deserves recognition.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A....finish kit due to arrive for Christmas!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Photo Share Main Index Page - The Detail You Asked For... |
Hi Listers!
I've been noticing a lot of people having fun with the new Email List Photo
and File Share feature and I've seen a great many hits on the various
member pages.
A number of you wrote to say that some additional topic data on the Main
Photo Share Index page would certainly be helpful and I would have to agree.
It took a little programming, and it was a job retrofitting to all of the
older Shares, but I think you'll be pleased with the outcome! I've added
Poster Name, Photo Share Subject, and Target Email List data to the Main
Index. Clicking on a Subject text opens a new window with the Photo Share
and the thumbnails.
Have a look and feel free to submit your photos for sharing! The
instructions are at the top of the Main Photo Share Index Page.
The URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Enjoy!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Wing assembly checklist |
This is probably well out of date by now with the new 7 and 9 kits.
These just jump out of the box and assemble themselves.
Sorry for the length of this but I will post it anyway. Hopefully
someone can benefit.
Background: I was only able to build my wings one at a time, but to make
the job a bit easier the second time I reviewed my building log and
prepared a task list for the second wing. It would only be applicable
to RV6 and RV4 builders and reflects my own sequence.
The starting point assumes the spars are assembled and the wing ribs
have already been drilled to both spars. Also, this is for a prepunched
kit.
It worked for me but remember your milage may vary......
Seasons greetings to all,
Doug Gray
1.Trim rear spar outboard end
2.Locate and drill outboard aileron bracket to rear spar.
3.Locate and drill inboard aileron bracket to rear spar.
4.Locate (use geometry, drawing is misleading) and drill hole for
aileron pushrod (round hole only for now - will be opened to final size
later)
5.Trim aileron gap fairing to clear aileron brackets.
6.Drill aileron gap fairing to rear spar. (holes @ 2" - use elastic)
7.Trim flanges off main spar outboard end to allow fitting to jig.
8.Rivet ribs 1 to 8 to front and rear spars.
9.Rivet remaining ribs to rear spar only.
10.Torque nuts on rib attach bolts (inboard 8 ribs).
11.Rivet aileron brackets to rear spar and end rib.
12.Mount wing skeleton into wing jig, support centre section.
13.Drill alignment holes and align carefully - clamp lower (rear spar)
to jig uprights. Use skins to adjust out racking - hang plumb bobs over
main spar flange, measure string to rear spar horiz. distance for
vertical alignment. Drill holes (drilled iaw Vans instructions) will
align exactly!
14.Mark rib centrelines.
15.Drill inboard lower main skin to skeleton.
16.Pilot drill access cover to outboard bottom main skin.
17.Trim (file) inboard aileron bracket to clear outboard lower main
skin.
18.Drill outboard lower main skin to skeleton. (Note outboard skin has
all rib holes prepunched - partially drill inboard skin through
prepunched holes at skin overlap rib for 5 holes, disassemble skins to
finish drilling these holes, reassemble skins to skeleton, drill through
predrilled holes into rib. Complete drilling skin overlap holes.) Final
assembly will be inboard skin under outboard skin.
19.Match drill wing walk doubler to top inboard skin (5 rows only 3/32)
20.Drill inboard top main skin to skeleton.
21.Drill outboard top main skin to skeleton. (Note comments for lower
skin)
22.Chamfer overlapping forward corners of main skins. See Vans manual.
23.Trim rear edge at overlap - top skins only
24.Prime main skins.
25.Reinstall main skins and drill access cover to skin & spar. Drill
cover holes to #30 (for clecos to enable drill nut plate ears.).
26.Drill access cover nut plate ears to skin and spar.
27.Drill access cover holes to size for #8 screws, deburr well and
dimple (#19 drill).
28.Install nut plates for access cover.
29.Install threaded rod through tooling holes to align leading edge
ribs.
30.Strap and drill leading edge skin to skeleton except tank attach
strip and rib.
31.Drill pilot holes in rib (every 3rd position), insert strip,
partially drill strip in same locations.
32.Disassemble, drill through partially drilled strips, and reassemble
33.Complete drilling inboard rib through tank attach strip.
34.Drill hole in spar/leading edge skin for Pitot tube attach.
35.Disassemble leading edge; roll edges, dimple skin and ribs.
36.Drill hole in leading edge skin for tie down ring.
37.Drill holes in leading edge ribs for electrical wire (snap in
bushings). Others may choose to install conduit behind the spar.
38.Rivet leading edge assembly together.
39.Prepare spar, dimple and touch up scratches (remove and replace main
skins as necessary in next sequence)
40.Set leading edge on spar - install bolts, rivet to spar and main ribs
in sequence including the longitudinal bellcrank support ribs.
41.Rivet leading edge skin to main spar.
42.Torque nuts to LE attach bolts.
43.Install Pitot tube fittings and 1/4" internal Pitot plumbing along
spar.
44.Drill filler neck and drain flange to skin.
45.Prepare tank ribs - flute straighten, deburr and mark rib centreline.
46.Measure, mark positions, drill tank ribs to baffle.
47.Position tank baffle & ribs on spar with spacer and install threaded
rod through tooling holes.
48.Strap tank skin in place. Drill skin to ribs and spar.
49.Drill spar attach (aft/rear row only) and leading edge attach strip
to 1/8", remainder to #41.
50.Remove skin & deburr.
51.Cleco tank ribs to skin, mark rib edges on skin.
52.Cut tank stiffeners - trim appropriate stiffener to clear pick up
tube.
53.Drill tank stiffeners to tank skin.
54.Drill fuel transfer holes in internal ribs.
55.Fly cut access hole in inboard tank rib.
56.Drill doubler ring to access hole, countersink ring, dimple rib.
57.Drill hole for right angle fitting for fuel vent line.
58.Prepare aluminium spacer washer for vent fitting.
59.Cleco ribs to tank skin.
60.Shape to fit two nose gussets for end ribs.
61.Cut and shape T405 tank attach from angle stock.
62.Drill T405 for rivets (3/32 pilot holes for now) and drill to inboard
rib with gusset, finish holes to #30.
63.Drill gusset to outboard rib. (#41only for AN470-3 rivets)
64.Make clip to hold vent line to filler neck.
65.Countersink filler neck.
66.Bend vent tube to shape and flare end.
67.Disassemble and deburr tank parts.
68.Make a patch to cover inboard tooling hole.
69.Identify and mark all rivet positions that will not be dimpled.
70.Scotchbrite ribs, skin, stiffeners, gussets, attach angle, filler
neck and drain flange.
71.Dimple all tank parts as required.
72.Cleanup and prepare for Proseal.
73.Remove plastic from external tank skin.
74.Proseal + rivet - stiffener angles.
75.Proseal + rivet - drain flange, filler neck, tooling hole cover,
outboard rib (6) to skin and nose gusset.
76.Proseal + rivet - tank ribs 4 and 5.
77.Proseal + rivet - tank ribs 2 and 3.
78.Install vent line.
79.Proseal + rivet - access cover ring. vent fitting, nut plates.
80.Proseal + rivet - tank rib 1, gusset and tank attach angle.
81.Adjust and fit fuel level sender to access cover.
82.Countersink access cover for plate nut attach rivets.
83.Fit fuel pickup to access cover.
84.Make and fit antirotation bracket to fuel pickup.
85.Proseal - access cover plate parts together.
86.Thin remaining proseal with MEK and brush over any suspect tank
joints.
87.Cleco tank + baffle to spar, install most clecos. Ensure tank is
sitting correctly on spar inboard end using clecos in each hole along
the spar. We do not want the tank to become twisted. NB main skins are
on.
88.Countersink skin for rear tank/baffle attach.
89.Prepare rear baffle - deburr and scotchbrite.
90.Proseal + rivet - rear baffle to tank - use 34 slotted clamps.
91.Proseal + rivet - add additional proseal around tank corners.
92.Cleco plate nuts to rear spar attach and leading edge attach and
drill #41 for rivets.
93.Remove plate nuts.
94.Mount tank on spar.
95.Drill forward spar attach holes to #30 (were 1/8")
96.Drill spar attach (rear row only) and leading edge attach to #19
97.Remove tank and deburr holes.
98.Remove main skins. Deburr holes on inside.
99.Dimple #8 screw holes in main spar (c'sink inboard hole?).
100.Install plate nuts (countersink spar flange and dimple plate nut
ears) on aft spar flange and leading edge attach.
101.Dimple Tank flanges for #8 screws.
102.Install Pitot line.
103.Dimple and c'sink where necessary bottom wing skeleton.
104.Dimple lower wing skins.
105.Rivet lower wing skins - back rivet.
106.Install plate nuts for forward spar flange attach.
107.Mount Tank with approx 20 #8 screws.
108.Countersink tank for forward attach screws. (#30 pilot screw down
c?sink tool approx 1.5 turns -10 points. My tool only!)
109.Assemble aileron hinge hardware.
110.Using wing templates install aileron in position.
111.Mark location of the inboard steel bracket on aileron.
112.Drill inboard aileron bracket to aileron using marks as a guide. Use
2 x 1/8" pilot holes + open to #12.
113.Re-assemble aileron to wing, only outboard end held in template.
114.Mark location of outboard aileron bracket on aileron.
115.Disassemble, pilot drill bracket for 2 holes, drill upper hole only
to aileron (1/8" pilot) and open to #12. Re-assemble aileron to wing,
install bolt in to outboard bracket.
116.Rotate aileron to 90 degree down position and with long #30 drill,
drill through pilot hole into aileron.
117.Disassemble aileron, drill out the last hole to #12, deburr, and
reassemble.
118.Trim flap support angle to 55.5" long.
119.Mark rivet positions on flap hinge half, mirror rivet positions of
flap except where skin overlaps.
120.Stagger rivets to avoid skin overlap, use drill press to pilot drill
(3/32) rivet holes in hinge.
121.Position hinge on the skin using grip clamps and drill skin through
hinge. Hinge is in correct orientation but on outside of skin. Use
straight edge against the hinge edge to ensure it is straight.
122.Drill hinge brace using the hinge as a guide. Do this on the bench.
123.Cleco brace to skin to determine the position of the step.
124.Disassemble and drill 2 1/4" hole in inboard end of flap brace.
125.Trim step in flap brace to clear rear spar bars.
126.Re-assemble to skin and mark positions for rivets into rear spar.
127.Mount aileron and flap, and then mark position of flap brace for
flap aileron alignment.
128.Remove brace and drill pilot holes (1/8") 5/16" edge from the flange
edge using drill press + backstop.
129.Re-assemble brace and hinge to wing, push into alignment (using
marks) & drill to rear spar.
130.Drill 2 1/4" holes along length of flap brace. Omit most outboard
hole.
131.Countersink flap brace, dimple skin deburr holes.
132.Drill #41 hole in inboard aileron bracket for hinge pin insertion.
(Would be difficult after the next step!)
133.Rivet hinge to skin and brace. Insert pin for this to keep it
straight.
134.Rivet brace to rear spar.
135.Aileron pushrod - cut to length, cut 'v's in each end clean up and
weld.
136.Trim hole in rear spar for aileron pushrod to size.
137.Trim flap leading edge to clear aileron pushrod. (1 1/4" long x
9/16" wide)
138.Drill top outboard skin for rivets to attach aileron gap fairing.
139.Cleco gap fairing and skin in place, adjust for correct clearance,
drill through the skin into the gap fairing.
140.Mark trim line on gap fairing (does not install between skin and
rear spar). Mark at ends and join with straight line.
141.Remove outboard skin and gap fairing and trim fairing to size.
142.Install 1/8" angle piece on aileron hinge for 30 degree up stop.
143.Countersink wing walk doubler last row (rear spar) only since they
are not able to be dimpled in the rear spar. (I added a .025? spacer
between skin and rear spar in this small area)
144.Countersink wing spacer/skin for several holes (outboard from ww
doubler), which will not be able to be dimpled in the rear spar.
145.Dimple top wing skins + ww doubler except where countersunk.
146.Dimple topside wing skeleton, countersink where not possible, omit
where skin or ww doubler is countersunk.
147.Re-jig with plumb-bobs clamping wing in strict alignment.
148.Check torque (torque wrench!) on main spar bolts.
149.Rivet inboard top skin and wing walk doubler.
150.Rivet outboard top skin - assistance required for approx 20 rivets.
151.Rivet aileron gap fairing to skin - requires assistance.
152.Pop rivet aileron gap fairing to rear spar. Mount flap and aileron.
Transfer to storage trolley frame.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
Hi Parker,
I had to trim a little in that area also. Mine didn't hit but was a little
too close for comfort. No big deal, just make sure you round the inside
corner a little to prevent any stress risers.
Happy Building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying - but currently down for painting)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
> Listers -
>
> Did anyone have to trim Horizontal Stabilizer skin to get the elevator
> counterweight arm to clear the skin where the skin sticks out to attach
the
> HS fiberglass? With the 13/16th rod end bearing length described in the
> plans, my elevators hit the skin. I tried moving the end bearings out
some,
> but I'm not happy with the gap size between HS and elevator or the
resulting
> limitations on elevator horn travel. I can't see any problem with taking
a
> 1/4 inch of skin off and reducing the size of the fiberglass. Am I
missing
> anything?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Hand Proping with Lightspeed (was Magnetos) |
You can definitely hand prop a lightspeed equipped plane. If you're plane
is set up like mine, impulse mag on left/Lightspeed on right, you crank or
prop the plane with both "mags" on.
The lightspeed is designed to function with anywhere from (about) 6 to 30
volts. So even if your is so dead that the plane will not crank, it will
still fire the electronic ignition.
Don Mei
23 Kings Lane
Essex, CT 06426
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Engine skid available |
Shipping skid for a O-360 engine available, Metro DC area. Free, you pick
up. I have been tripping over it too long so either it finds a new home or
it's firewood.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (on the 4th round of #!**/#! fiberglass priming/wet sanding)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk3(at)attbi.com`> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
I trimmed a bit off the h.s. skin and the fiberglass end cap to allow free
movement of the elevator counterweight arm.
Doug Shenk, RV-6Aqb
"F. Parker Thomas" wrote:
>
> Listers -
>
> Did anyone have to trim Horizontal Stabilizer skin to get the elevator
> counterweight arm to clear the skin where the skin sticks out to attach the
> HS fiberglass? With the 13/16th rod end bearing length described in the
> plans, my elevators hit the skin. I tried moving the end bearings out some,
> but I'm not happy with the gap size between HS and elevator or the resulting
> limitations on elevator horn travel. I can't see any problem with taking a
> 1/4 inch of skin off and reducing the size of the fiberglass. Am I missing
> anything?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Door... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
door opening degrees, etc... I was thinking I didn't want the door to
open in such a way to allow the heated air to flow right onto the left
mag, but if I open the door the other way I will only be able to get the
door to open somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 degrees, and the air
would then be directed onto the limited space of left side of the cowl
and firewall area... The best solution I can think of is having the
door open up to a point that would direct the heated air back and
somewhat downward...
Any insight on this would be great!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flighttech and General Intercom Questions |
Has anyone used flighttech intercoms. Their auto squelch intercoms are
available for less than $250. I am interested in autosquelch because with
no carpets/insulation and 4 straight stacks, my RV-4 is VERY loud inside.
I'd also be interested in peoples experiences/opinions on other
alternatives. I consider the PS Engineering PM4000 to be my ideal. I don't
need the audio panel functions, but like their auto squelch.
Am I being dumb to chase the autosquelch function. Do any of you with very
loud airplanes have good experiences with other intercoms?
Thanks
PLEASE respond directly to me as well as "on list". I only get daily list
summaries and don't want to miss anyone's reply.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and
hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series
of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary."
-H. L. Mencken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
From the FWIW file...
After seeing lots of posts about this over the last few years, it seems many
installations blocking the rear of the cooler are less effective than those
that block the front of the cooler. My suspicion is that there is sufficient
turbulent cold airflow within the cooler itself (even with the rear of it
blocked) to remove significant heat from the oil still circulating there.
Just a theory...
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hi all...
>
> I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
> door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
> wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
> door opening degrees, etc...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
Bill,
I have an oil cooler door on the back side of my oil cooler located behind #4 cylinder
in my RV-4. This door was designed and made by the late Brad Overholser
of Pelican Aviation. Really nice, machined, bearings, etc.that it hardly has
any effect on oil temps, maybe 10 degrees or so, unless it is hot outside,
then it can raise temps in a hurry. It seems that a lot of the cooling comes
from just the impact air on the front of the cooler, so that closing off the exit
air doesn't seem to have much effect in cold weather. In my opinion you would
be better off designing some kind of sliding gate door on the front of the
cooler as others have done here on the list.
I have always had my doubts whether the oil cooler door is really necessary, however,
because if I understand it correctly, the vernatherm should
be bypassing the oil cooler all together in cold weather to try to maintain 180
degrees. Comments from anyone?
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door...
Hi all...
I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
door opening degrees, etc... I was thinking I didn't want the door to
open in such a way to allow the heated air to flow right onto the left
mag, but if I open the door the other way I will only be able to get the
door to open somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 degrees, and the air
would then be directed onto the limited space of left side of the cowl
and firewall area... The best solution I can think of is having the
door open up to a point that would direct the heated air back and
somewhat downward...
Any insight on this would be great!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
| Subject: | Flighttech and General Intercom Questions |
I love the autosquelch on the PS Engineering. For several years new Mooney's
were built with the PMA-7000. All my customers love the autosquelch. Last
year Mooney went to the Garmin audio panel with two separate volume/squelch
controls. I don't like it nearly as well. (I now avoid the audio panel
discussion during a demo.)
The real luxury of autosquelch is not having to adjust it for the noise
variance between ground ops and inflight.
Keith Vasey
RV-8Q
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Mei
Subject: RV-List: Flighttech and General Intercom Questions
Has anyone used flighttech intercoms. Their auto squelch intercoms are
available for less than $250. I am interested in autosquelch because with
no carpets/insulation and 4 straight stacks, my RV-4 is VERY loud inside.
I'd also be interested in peoples experiences/opinions on other
alternatives. I consider the PS Engineering PM4000 to be my ideal. I don't
need the audio panel functions, but like their auto squelch.
Am I being dumb to chase the autosquelch function. Do any of you with very
loud airplanes have good experiences with other intercoms?
Thanks
PLEASE respond directly to me as well as "on list". I only get daily list
summaries and don't want to miss anyone's reply.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and
hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series
of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary."
-H. L. Mencken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
> After seeing lots of posts about this over the last few years, it seems
many
> installations blocking the rear of the cooler are less effective than
those
> that block the front of the cooler. My suspicion is that there is
sufficient
> turbulent cold airflow within the cooler itself (even with the rear of it
> blocked) to remove significant heat from the oil still circulating there.
> Just a theory...
I'll second this. I have a cooler door which helps in the summer or when I
fly to hotter places, but in the winter I still install a plate on the front
of the cooler. Doesn't get all that cold here in the great NorthWet but even
so, on my engine I don't even need the cooler most of the year.
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Another Oil Cooler Question... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Which way should the oil in the cooler flow? Up or down?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
I put a door on the front of my cooler. Only covers about 70% but works
great. Keeps it at about 180 deg on cold days.
Dave Beizer RV6A ,Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | More on oil cooler doors... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
So.....Does anyone have pictures of their oil coolers mounted on the
left rear baffle with a door on the inlet side of the cooler?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Howard Cochran ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: RV-8 Rear Stick w/ "S" Bend
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/W4PPN@aol.com.12.11.2001/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
Main Photo Share Index:
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---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Al Mojzisik ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Fiberglass Plenum
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/prober@iwaynet.net.12.11.2001/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
Main Photo Share Index:
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---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel system choices |
I have just installed my fuel filters in the wing roots... I never
thought of it, but I guess I will have to drain my tanks to some extent
to check an clean them... -> http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish7.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel system choices
Mark,
I've been thinking about this lately. I was looking at using dual
gascolators until I thought about opening them up for service. If
they're not downstream of a valve, you're going to have to drain the
tanks.
Sump the tank drains first and you'll get the water before it gets into
the line. Because the pickup tubes go up to the outlet, the gascolator
isn't going to be real effective at removing water from the tank during
preflight unless there's a lot of it. It'll be on the job while you're
flying and you'll see the water (if any) on the next preflight.
I think that the pump should be as low and as close to the tanks as
possible. I don't think that raising the pump is a great idea. It might
work, but then again, maybe it would add time (that you might not have)
to a re-start. If you have a leak, spraying it on the battery
connections doesn't seem like the best thing, either.
I'm going to try and shoehorn my fuel pump into the wingroot with the
gascolator. If it leaks, I'll smell it and know that there's a problem,
but I'd just as soon not swim in it. My second choice is on the sidewall
where Van's draws it.
Good luck,
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
> I have always had my doubts whether the oil cooler door is really necessa> ry,
however, because if I understand it correctly, the vernatherm should
> be bypassing the oil cooler all together in cold weather to try to mainta> in
180 degrees. Comments from anyone?
I think the concensus on the list is that the Vernathem never totally shuts
off the flow to the oil cooler, it just bypasses some of it. So the
Vernatherm cannot stop your oil cooler from partially cooling in cold
weather. I don't know why Lycoming designed it this way, perhaps as a safety
issue to prevent total cooking of the oil if the Vernatherm ever stuck
closed.
I agree with a previous poster that you need a door in front of the cooler
to effectively shut off the airflow. A simple door hinged door at the back
of the cooler not only allows cooling air to still get to front part of the
cooler but it has considerable air pressure, perhaps as much as 6-8 pounds
of force, trying to pry it open. Leakage is inevitable even with a positive
locking control unless you make the door out of really heavy material.
A sliding door in front of the cooler would be effective but sliding
controls have a great deal of friction once you add air pressure to the
equation. Still, I think many builders have used this method successfully.
I built a butterfly valve for my firewall mounted cooler, but I wouldn't
mount it on the firewall next time around. Too crowded and it reportedly
doesn't cool as well. Still, you can't beat a butterfly valve for this type
of application. It is lightweight, aerodynamically balanced so that you
aren't fighting the air pressure to close it, and you can get nearly a
perfect seal. Next time around I will mount the cooler on the baffles and
try to build some kind of short intake plenum in front of the cooler that I
could mount a butterfly valve in.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
> I put a door on the front of my cooler. Only covers about 70% but works
> great. Keeps it at about 180 deg on cold days.
>
>
My oil cooler is firewall mounted and fed via a 3" hole in the rear of the
baffle and a 3" scat tube. I made a cockpit controllable butterfly valve at
the opening. It works great! On a cold day I can bring up the oil temps
about 50 degrees by fully closing the valve.
Easy to make and highly recommended.
Andy
Winter Park, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Oil Cooler Question... |
I think down to help purge any air in the cooler.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Another Oil Cooler Question...
Which way should the oil in the cooler flow? Up or down?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia |
RV-List: Magnetos
............"OK. The point I was trying to make is that in your normal
'dead battery'
situation, you can't hand prop unless you have a mag with an impluse
coupler........."
Well, actually you can hook two d-cell batteries from your FAA
flashlight, and re-install the fuse in your cigarette lighter and
hot-jump the electrical buss and energise the SOS (Shower-Of-Sparks) so
you can hand prop the (SOS) engine. This works with a dead aircraft
battery. I've jump-started/hand proped many Moonies this way. P.S.
Learned a trick from the Russians: I use a towel to pull the prop thru
and hand prop the aircraft. It seems the Russians have been using this
technique since day one. I used to fly a Yak and the handbook depicted
this procedure.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MCALLMAN(at)aol.com |
where is Possum Works in TN..? Knoxville here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLinn30012(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Still looking for an oil injection system for my |
IO-320
Hi Bruce, I removed it because I dont do extended negative g aerobatics
and the Christen system interfered with the new Vetterman exhaust system I
installed.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
Yep, I had to trim about 1/16" off the right side top skin only so that the
right elevator's counterweight would swing through there unobstructed.
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000 (port 8000 until my new DSL goes in)
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
> Listers -
>
> Did anyone have to trim Horizontal Stabilizer skin to get the elevator
> counterweight arm to clear the skin where the skin sticks out to attach
the
> HS fiberglass? With the 13/16th rod end bearing length described in the
> plans, my elevators hit the skin. I tried moving the end bearings out
some,
> but I'm not happy with the gap size between HS and elevator or the
resulting
> limitations on elevator horn travel. I can't see any problem with taking
a
> 1/4 inch of skin off and reducing the size of the fiberglass. Am I
missing
> anything?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site corrections |
Why has this pad to be bonded with silicone? Silicone contains silica and
that's slightly corrosive as far as I know.
Does this gadget not have a thermostat ? I can inform you that lycoming grey
paint is of the heatrestant variety and therefore it resists tempertures in
excess of a 100 degrees C.
I'm not familiar with the product that you sell, but to me it sounds like a
shortcut to very expensive repairs.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
Aircraft painter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hand propping |
> hmmm
> When proping an 0320 from behind how does one get his fingers back in the
> event of a kick back.
Yikes. Not sure I'd prop a O320 from behind. Too hard to get a swing to get
yourself out of the way. Compression on that engine would make that
difficult. You would need a little of the old leg swinging action there.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim hurd" <hurd(at)gsinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
Bill, I built the door as per plans and I think it is next to worthless.
Very little temp change. Put a butterfly valve in the scat tube to the
cooler--much more effective.
Jim 6A 0360/CS San Antonio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door...
>
> Hi all...
>
> I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
> door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
> wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
> door opening degrees, etc... I was thinking I didn't want the door to
> open in such a way to allow the heated air to flow right onto the left
> mag, but if I open the door the other way I will only be able to get the
> door to open somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 degrees, and the air
> would then be directed onto the limited space of left side of the cowl
> and firewall area... The best solution I can think of is having the
> door open up to a point that would direct the heated air back and
> somewhat downward...
>
> Any insight on this would be great!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled!
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Witte <mwitte(at)erols.com> |
Jeff: Look on DWG 3. Just above the Section A-A detailing HS-614, there is a
front view of the forward HS spar. Above the trim cable hole is a
measurement: 4 7/8 in from the spar centerline.
Mike Witte
Alexandria VA
RV-7A
Jeff Point wrote:
>
> Maybe I've been looking at plans for too long today and my brain is
> fried, but can someone please tell me where to find the measurement is
> for the 5/8 inch rudder cable hole in the F-602 bulkhead?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 Fuselage N187CF (reserved)
> Milwaukee WI
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia |
> Learned a trick from the Russians: I use a towel to pull the prop thru
> and hand prop the aircraft. It seems the Russians have been using this
> technique since day one. I used to fly a Yak and the handbook depicted
> this procedure.......
Tell us more. You just wrap the towel around your hand to protect it, or
something else...?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on oil cooler doors... |
Bill:
We went through this thread pretty good a year ago. go to this URL for a
very nice approach.
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/paul_golias_ideas.htm#OilCoolerDoor
Also go to http://solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
for a system that I was working on. I agree with the idea that a door
"behind" the oil cooler does little to affect engine oil temp. One infront
of the door keeps all cool air off of the fins.
Dave
RV-4 N504RV
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> So.....Does anyone have pictures of their oil coolers mounted on the
> left rear baffle with a door on the inlet side of the cooler?
>
> -Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Vansairforce"
| Subject: | More on oil cooler doors... |
Don...
I really like your plenum... Have you finished it yet? Do you have any
drawings of how you built the thing?
The other thing I was thinking of was putting Van's firewall mounting kit on
the outlet side of the baffle mounted cooler and put a butterfly in it... I
know it's still on the outlet side instead of the inlet side, but by using
the butterfly and sealing the installation really well, you should be able
to stop the FLOW of air completely. You could also put a scat tube on the
outlet side to direct the hot air where ever you wanted...
What do you all think?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Aronson
Subject: Re: RV-List: More on oil cooler doors...
Bill:
We went through this thread pretty good a year ago. go to this URL for a
very nice approach.
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/paul_golias_ideas.htm#OilCoolerDoor
Also go to http://solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
for a system that I was working on. I agree with the idea that a door
"behind" the oil cooler does little to affect engine oil temp. One infront
of the door keeps all cool air off of the fins.
Dave
RV-4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Van's wiring kit Sub panel |
Can someone explain to me what the purpose is of the terminal block on the
sub panel when most of the wires seem to go straight to the switches. I
thought the bundle of wires for the lights strobes etc would go to the
terminal block and then 1 wire to the switch? Am I reading the plans
wrong??
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another Oil Cooler Question... |
In a message dated 12/11/2001 9:26:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> Which way should the oil in the cooler flow? Up or down?
>
> -Bill
I have always been told to flow up but I don't think it matters that much.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system choices |
Bill, two things. Do you know what the total filter area of this filter is?
Earls makes a connector that would allow you to connect the filter direct to
the bulkhead fitting, it might be useful if space is a consideration.
Garry "Casper"
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I have just installed my fuel filters in the wing roots... I never
> thought of it, but I guess I will have to drain my tanks to some extent
> to check an clean them... -> http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish7.htm
>
> -Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel system choices
>
>
> Mark,
>
> I've been thinking about this lately. I was looking at using dual
> gascolators until I thought about opening them up for service. If
> they're not downstream of a valve, you're going to have to drain the
> tanks.
> Sump the tank drains first and you'll get the water before it gets into
> the line. Because the pickup tubes go up to the outlet, the gascolator
> isn't going to be real effective at removing water from the tank during
> preflight unless there's a lot of it. It'll be on the job while you're
> flying and you'll see the water (if any) on the next preflight.
>
> I think that the pump should be as low and as close to the tanks as
> possible. I don't think that raising the pump is a great idea. It might
> work, but then again, maybe it would add time (that you might not have)
> to a re-start. If you have a leak, spraying it on the battery
> connections doesn't seem like the best thing, either.
>
> I'm going to try and shoehorn my fuel pump into the wingroot with the
> gascolator. If it leaks, I'll smell it and know that there's a problem,
> but I'd just as soon not swim in it. My second choice is on the sidewall
> where Van's draws it.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6 QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More on oil cooler doors... |
In a message dated 12/11/01 8:22:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
aronsond(at)pacbell.net writes:
> I agree with the idea that a door
> "behind" the oil cooler does little to affect engine oil temp. One in
> front
> of the door keeps all cool air off of the fins.
If 40 degrees F is "little", then of course I concur.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More on oil cooler doors... |
In a message dated 12/11/01 10:01:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> Does anyone have pictures of their oil coolers mounted on the
> left rear baffle with a door on the inlet side of the cooler?
No, but my left rear baffle mounted cooler with a rear door worked like a
champ since day one. I haven't a clue as to why others haven't had the same
success with theirs.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another Oil Cooler Question... |
In a message dated 12/11/01 9:26:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> Which way should the oil in the cooler flow? Up or down?
The same way you purge air from your brakes (fill from the bottom). The oil
flow should go into the bottom of the cooler and out from the top to
naturally purge gas from the system.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Wing Jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fablef@bellsouth.net.12.11.2001/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: 160th F-16/RV Pilots
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.12.11.2001/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door... |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
12/12/2001 08:16:30 AM
Jim,
What plans (for an oil cooler door) are you referring to?
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "jim hurd" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 12/11/01 07:06 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door...
|
Bill, I built the door as per plans and I think it is next to worthless.
Very little temp change. Put a butterfly valve in the scat tube to the
cooler--much more effective.
Jim 6A 0360/CS San Antonio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door...
>
> Hi all...
>
> I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
> door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
> wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
> door opening degrees, etc... I was thinking I didn't want the door to
> open in such a way to allow the heated air to flow right onto the left
> mag, but if I open the door the other way I will only be able to get the
> door to open somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 degrees, and the air
> would then be directed onto the limited space of left side of the cowl
> and firewall area... The best solution I can think of is having the
> door open up to a point that would direct the heated air back and
> somewhat downward...
>
> Any insight on this would be great!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled!
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
>
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's wiring kit Sub panel |
Hi Chris & Susie,
I didn't use Van's wiring kit, but I used terminal blocks on the sub panel
for applications where I needed to run several wires from one switch. For
instance, I ran all of my panel lighting (including lighted gauges) to a
terminal block and then powered the terminal block from a dimmer switch. I
also powered up all of my Van's engine gauges from a terminal block and
powered the terminal block from a single power source.
Hope this helps,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Van's wiring kit Sub panel
>
> Can someone explain to me what the purpose is of the terminal block on the
> sub panel when most of the wires seem to go straight to the switches. I
> thought the bundle of wires for the lights strobes etc would go to the
> terminal block and then 1 wire to the switch? Am I reading the plans
> wrong??
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Options |
I've just finished doing the fuel system plumbing (FWR) on my IO360 8A. I
mounted the Van's (Usher) Gascolator between the fuselodge and wing root
rib. Schematically it is after the fuel selector valve and before the Weldon
Fuel Pump. This offers the advantage of; 1) Only needing one gascolator, 2)
Can service it without draining tanks, 3) Cool area will pick up less heat
than anywhere FWF.
Esten Spears, Leeward Air Ranch, RV8A, 80922, Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... |
>>>>>>>>>>>>>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia
> Learned a trick from the Russians: I use a towel to pull the prop thru
> and hand prop the aircraft. It seems the Russians have been using this
> technique since day one. I used to fly a Yak and the handbook depicted
> this procedure.......
Tell us more. You just wrap the towel around your hand to protect it, or
something else...?
The Russians use a towl looped around the prop blade (like a towl
hanging on your towl rack by the sink) to pull the blade thru. If there
is a kickback the towl acts like an absorber and allows you to pull back
your hand and arm while not having direct contact with the prop blade.
Also, if it starts a moment before you expect it to-- the towl allows
you to have the reaction time to pull yourself back and all the while
you had some save material (towl) around the prop and not your hand. If
it does start it simply pulls the towl out of your hand while your busy
crapping in your shorts and stumbling backwards with all appendages
still intact. I use a hand towl for the RV-4 and I remember using a bath
towl for the YAK-52 because the prop was higher in the air. I recall
seeing thisprocedure in the YAK maintenance manuals as well as the Wilga
manuals I looked thru.SEEYA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... |
Thanks for this trick. This way I just may someday work up the nerve to
pull an engine through.
As a youth I got my hand whacked a few times by a prop attached to a .15 cu.
in. model engine. The result was a few bandaids, and I healed in a few
days. I still remember how that witches-brew fuel made the cuts sting.
The thought of getting mixed up in a prop attached to 300+ cu. in. gives me
a worse scare than anything else in aviation. This is especially true when
I'm in front of a rented Cessna where I have never even had a chance to
examine the 30-year-old wires and ignition switch that are supposed to be
making those magnetos safe.
Cars lost their cranks 75 years ago, and it takes a really die-hard
nostalgia enthusiast to miss them. My mother was just old enough to have
seen her father hurt himself more than once cranking the family model T. If
20 horses with ridiculously low compression can break your arm, I'm not
sorry I missed it a bit.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: philip condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 9:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; randallh(at)attbi.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick....
>
>
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia
>
>
>
> > Learned a trick from the Russians: I use a towel to pull
> the prop thru
> > and hand prop the aircraft. It seems the Russians have been
> using this
> > technique since day one. I used to fly a Yak and the
> handbook depicted
> > this procedure.......
>
> Tell us more. You just wrap the towel around your hand to
> protect it, or
> something else...?
>
> The Russians use a towl looped around the prop blade (like a towl
> hanging on your towl rack by the sink) to pull the blade
> thru. If there
> is a kickback the towl acts like an absorber and allows you
> to pull back
> your hand and arm while not having direct contact with the prop blade.
> Also, if it starts a moment before you expect it to-- the towl allows
> you to have the reaction time to pull yourself back and all the while
> you had some save material (towl) around the prop and not
> your hand. If
> it does start it simply pulls the towl out of your hand while
> your busy
> crapping in your shorts and stumbling backwards with all appendages
> still intact. I use a hand towl for the RV-4 and I remember
> using a bath
> towl for the YAK-52 because the prop was higher in the air. I recall
> seeing thisprocedure in the YAK maintenance manuals as well
> as the Wilga
> manuals I looked thru.SEEYA
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
Bill,
I just finished my RV-8 and now have seventeen hours on it. This is the
way I went about reducing airflow through the cooler in order to raise
the oil temp.
Reducing airflow at the front of the cooler is more effective than
blocking from the rear. After cutting the hole in the baffle at the
rear of #4, I mounted on either side of the hole two verticle 3/8" x 1"
x 10" aluminum strips into which a 1/16 slit had been cut on the baffle
hole edge along with the three holes for mounting the cooler. Into the
slits I installed an aluminum panel which slides up and down like a
guillotine and it has a small hole at the top for attaching a cable from
the cockpit. Then the cooler mounts through the three holes in the
verticle strips and baffle. I then ran a button lock cable from the
left side of the cockpit through the firewall and up and over the cooler
with a 180 degree turn back down to the baffle in front of the cooler
where I attacked an adel clamp for the cable housing. The cable then
attaches to the hole in the guillotine. Now I can pull on the cable and
raise the guillotine in front of the cooler to block off air from going
through the cooler. Work just fine. On a cold the day last week at
7500' my oil was running about 170 degrees. I pulled the cable out
about an inch and waited and soon my oil temp was up to about 185
degrees.
By the way the oil should flow from bottom to top in the cooler to purge
out any air.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3 Flying
RV-8 FLYING!
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door...
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I am still in the process of installing my baffles and Oil Cooler ->
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm... I will be installing a
door on the back of the cooler for those cold Colorado winters and was
wondering if anyone had any experience with door sizes, air routing,
door opening degrees, etc... I was thinking I didn't want the door to
open in such a way to allow the heated air to flow right onto the left
mag, but if I open the door the other way I will only be able to get the
door to open somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 degrees, and the air
would then be directed onto the limited space of left side of the cowl
and firewall area... The best solution I can think of is having the
door open up to a point that would direct the heated air back and
somewhat downward...
Any insight on this would be great!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Still Baffled!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on oil cooler doors... |
Is Randy Pflanzer still on the list? He had a write-up and some pix of what
looked to be a real slick sliding door arrangement on the back baffle. I
can't get to the pix now, don't know what the deal is there. But you can
search the archives for "Pflanzer & oil & cooler & door" and find his
write-up.
I'd have some concerns about David Aronson's deal (the "solanpilots" one
ref'd below). Looks like an awful lot of moment to hang your cooler out on.
A lot of leverage for vibration -- I'd think you'd have to brace/strengthen
it a whole lot to avoid cracking of the plenum/baffle. Has David flown it
yet?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
> We went through this thread pretty good a year ago. go to this URL for a
> very nice approach.
> http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/paul_golias_ideas.htm#OilCoolerDoor
> Also go to http://solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
> for a system that I was working on. I agree with the idea that a door
> "behind" the oil cooler does little to affect engine oil temp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Folks,
I am wispering sweet nothings into Santa's ear and GPS is high on the list.
One person told me I should consider the PC Anywhere software and
peripherals with a Compaq iPAQ. Do any of you folks have this setup and, if
so, how do you like/not like it? I would appreciate an answer directly as
well as to the list, if you desire. Thank you much.
Bill Costello
Chicago
wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
Building an RV6 (15 year plan); flying a Piper Colt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
I am wispering sweet nothings into Santa's ear and GPS is high on the list.
One person told me I should consider the PC Anywhere software and
peripherals with a Compaq iPAQ. Do any of you folks have this setup and, if
so, how do you like/not like it? I would appreciate an answer directly as
well as to the list, if you desire. Thank you much.
Bill Costello
----------------
I bet you mean "Anywhere Map" :-) I've been wondering about this too, so
I'll be real interested to hear what actual users have to say. I have a
Compaq iPAQ, and will need a GPS for the current RV-3 project, so I'm
seriously considering the Anywhere Map approach.
http://www.anywheremap.com/
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... |
Hand propping has the same mystique to it for those who are used to electric
starters as tailwheel aircraft do to those who have only flown nosewheels.
It's only mysterious and scary until you've been taught the "propper" (pun
intended) way to do it and done it a few times. Or in my case a few hundred
times. I've propped Cubs, Champs, 150s and 172s. Actually the most
difficult was the C-150 because the prop is so low to the ground. Luckily
so am I so there wasn't much problem.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hyde [mailto:DonH(at)axonn.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick....
Thanks for this trick. This way I just may someday work up the nerve to
pull an engine through.
As a youth I got my hand whacked a few times by a prop attached to a .15 cu.
in. model engine. The result was a few bandaids, and I healed in a few
days. I still remember how that witches-brew fuel made the cuts sting.
The thought of getting mixed up in a prop attached to 300+ cu. in. gives me
a worse scare than anything else in aviation. This is especially true when
I'm in front of a rented Cessna where I have never even had a chance to
examine the 30-year-old wires and ignition switch that are supposed to be
making those magnetos safe.
Cars lost their cranks 75 years ago, and it takes a really die-hard
nostalgia enthusiast to miss them. My mother was just old enough to have
seen her father hurt himself more than once cranking the family model T. If
20 horses with ridiculously low compression can break your arm, I'm not
sorry I missed it a bit.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: philip condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 9:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; randallh(at)attbi.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick....
>
>
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia
>
>
>
> > Learned a trick from the Russians: I use a towel to pull
> the prop thru
> > and hand prop the aircraft. It seems the Russians have been
> using this
> > technique since day one. I used to fly a Yak and the
> handbook depicted
> > this procedure.......
>
> Tell us more. You just wrap the towel around your hand to
> protect it, or
> something else...?
>
> The Russians use a towl looped around the prop blade (like a towl
> hanging on your towl rack by the sink) to pull the blade
> thru. If there
> is a kickback the towl acts like an absorber and allows you
> to pull back
> your hand and arm while not having direct contact with the prop blade.
> Also, if it starts a moment before you expect it to-- the towl allows
> you to have the reaction time to pull yourself back and all the while
> you had some save material (towl) around the prop and not
> your hand. If
> it does start it simply pulls the towl out of your hand while
> your busy
> crapping in your shorts and stumbling backwards with all appendages
> still intact. I use a hand towl for the RV-4 and I remember
> using a bath
> towl for the YAK-52 because the prop was higher in the air. I recall
> seeing thisprocedure in the YAK maintenance manuals as well
> as the Wilga
> manuals I looked thru.SEEYA
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | transponder/encoder |
Hi all,
Question regarding transponders/encoders.
Will all altitude encoders work with all transponders? In other words,
if I have a Narco transponder do I need a specific type of encoder for
it?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 60 Msgs - 12/11/01 |
| From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
12/12/2001 01:54:42 PM
Hello everyone.
I am a "greenhorn" RV-8 builder (tail almost done, saving $$$ for wings)
The fuel system ideas that have been bounced around lately remind me that
most of us are standing on the shoulders of those who have gone before us.
I had a thought that I wanted to bounce off of everyone. If I were to
route the fuel lines back to the tail (taildragger) to a gascolator, it
would then be at the lowest point possible where water would be able to
collect and be strained out. The fuel pump would be able to stay near the
wing root where it could "push" fuel to the tail. I am not sure if the
pump would be able to pump against the "head" pressure, but you would
negate much of the head pressure by the downhill siphon effect as the fuel
would "pull" on its way to the tail. The "wet area" drag of the fuel
tubing may be an issue for the pump, and the weight of the gascolator way
back there may have c.g. and polar moment implications. It just seems like
a great place for a water drain. Thanks to Robert Irvin for teaching me
about the RV list. What a great asset this is for all of us. $$$ on the
way from me to support the RV list.
Don Alexander
RV-8
Tail almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Dear all,
I just purchased 2 items for my plane that I just thought I'd mention. They
are not new to the RV list, but maybe a reminder might be good for newer
members.
Odyssey 625 Battery - I haven't received it yet, but many listers say it is
great. 12 lbs with a 3 yr replacement warranty. Price varies wildly among
dealers. I got mine at a place that was recommended previously on the list,
Battery Specialist. $73.95 including shipping. Previously they had sold a
rebadged Odyssey bat for this price. They are now offering the Odyssey
badged product for this price. The guy on the phone, Philip, was quick
knowledgable and courteous. Don't bother with their web site. Phone number
is 1-888-228-8379
Fumoto valve - fumotovalve.com
I've been putting off buying one of those aircraft quick drains for years.
$100 is a bit much. Fumoto valve is intended for cars but is of very very
high quality. Their model T202N will fit Lycosaurs and has a nipple to
attache a hose to. Total cost, shipped to my door was $31.95.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net> |
Oops, I previously copied the Short Wing Piper Club list. So here it is to
the RV-List.
Bill Costello
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
> Hi Doug,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. I looked at your web picture to check out your
GPS
> (aka Compaq iPAQ) mount. I have copied the list so they can see it too.
It
> is a little too complex for me, what with all the very sophisticated mount
> joints, but I bet it has excellent vibration absorbing qualities! (Yes,
the
> software should correctly be called Anywhere Map and not PC Anywhere --
> blush!) For those of you who don't want to scroll below, check out
> http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/2001LOE/EPSN0046.JPG
>
> Bill Costello
> Colt N5779Z (15 year building plan for RV-6)
> Chicago, IL
> Gary/Chicago (GYY)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 12:53 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
>
>
> Hi Bill.
> I assume you're talking of Control Vision's Anywhere Map?
> If so...I use it and like it a lot (I use the calendar/phone/etc
> functions even more). I'm never w/o my iPaq.
>
> If you'd like to see a SIMPLE setup go to
> http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/2001LOE/EPSN0046.JPG
> and admire my complex mount (#64 rubber band). This pic was taken
> inflight.
>
> Best,
> Doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Costello [mailto:wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:47 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
>
>
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I am wispering sweet nothings into Santa's ear and GPS is high on the
> list.
> One person told me I should consider the PC Anywhere software and
> peripherals with a Compaq iPAQ. Do any of you folks have this setup
> and, if
> so, how do you like/not like it? I would appreciate an answer directly
> as
> well as to the list, if you desire. Thank you much.
>
> Bill Costello
> Chicago
> wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
> Building an RV6 (15 year plan); flying a Piper Colt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
The Ram Corporation has just developed a line of RAM Mounts for the Compaq
IPAQ
Anywhere Map combination. Email their support staff for part numbers.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Costello [SMTP:wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 11:28 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
>
>
>
> Oops, I previously copied the Short Wing Piper Club list. So here it is
> to
> the RV-List.
> Bill Costello
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net>
> To: "Reeves, Doug"
> Subject: Re: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
>
>
> > Hi Doug,
> >
> > Thanks for the feedback. I looked at your web picture to check out your
> GPS
> > (aka Compaq iPAQ) mount. I have copied the list so they can see it too.
> It
> > is a little too complex for me, what with all the very sophisticated
> mount
> > joints, but I bet it has excellent vibration absorbing qualities! (Yes,
> the
> > software should correctly be called Anywhere Map and not PC Anywhere --
> > blush!) For those of you who don't want to scroll below, check out
> > http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/2001LOE/EPSN0046.JPG
> >
> > Bill Costello
> > Colt N5779Z (15 year building plan for RV-6)
> > Chicago, IL
> > Gary/Chicago (GYY)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 12:53 PM
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill.
> > I assume you're talking of Control Vision's Anywhere Map?
> > If so...I use it and like it a lot (I use the calendar/phone/etc
> > functions even more). I'm never w/o my iPaq.
> >
> > If you'd like to see a SIMPLE setup go to
> > http://www.archongroup.com/reeves/images/2001LOE/EPSN0046.JPG
> > and admire my complex mount (#64 rubber band). This pic was taken
> > inflight.
> >
> > Best,
> > Doug
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: William Costello [mailto:wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:47 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I am wispering sweet nothings into Santa's ear and GPS is high on the
> > list.
> > One person told me I should consider the PC Anywhere software and
> > peripherals with a Compaq iPAQ. Do any of you folks have this setup
> > and, if
> > so, how do you like/not like it? I would appreciate an answer directly
> > as
> > well as to the list, if you desire. Thank you much.
> >
> > Bill Costello
> > Chicago
> > wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
> > Building an RV6 (15 year plan); flying a Piper Colt
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
That's one of the things that I'm currently working on...since I saw it
mentioned, I thought that I should check mine.....sure enough, I'll have to
break out the files too. I can get them to swing through but they're
touching...1/16" should do it...I think that 1/4" might be a bit much IMVHO.
Thanks for the heads-up...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-320 Accessory Case Oil Return Port |
TO ENGINE GURU'S
In the process of installing an M-20 air/oil separator I blew into the hose
that is connected to the oil return port on the right side of the engine,
and find that I cannot force air through it. I removed the hose adapter and
no oil poured out, so I assume this port is above the sump's oil
level....opening the dip stick didn't allow air to be forced through either.
I wonder... is there a possibility that the oil return port has an internal
tube of some sort that might 'dip' down into the oil level in the sump? I
didn't try putting an air compressor on the oil return port to see if I was
just fighting thick oil (20-degrees last night). I recall having blown into
the return line a while back when I was checking my old air/oil separator
and I could easily blow through the return line....but perhaps I was
changing oil at the time and the sump was empty then; I just can't recall
clearly.
What I need to know is: what's on the inside of that oil return port?
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel line variations (was some unrelated subject line) |
>> If I were to route the fuel lines back to the tail (taildragger) to a
>> gascolator, it would then be at the lowest point possible where water
would be able to
>> collect and be strained out. The fuel pump would be able to stay near
the
>> wing root where it could "push" fuel to the tail.
> The more you are on this list, you will realize that there are LOTS of
good
> ideas. HOWEVER, you will also realize that there are a thousand ways to
> modify this plane, 995 of which are superflous and simple
over-engineering.
> I think that this may be the case here. My rule (and advice): "If any mod
> becomes too comlex, it probably is".
Agreed. Problems with stringing the fuel lines into the tail: LOTS of fuel
lines in the fuselage which would be a routing nightmare, more fuel lines to
spring a leak, more complexity, more FUEL in the fuselage. With a gascolator
at the "apex", it would be a low point with the tail down but a high point
with the tail up. Which would be a potential place for an air leak. Air
replacing fuel in a fuel line: bad things can happen. Did I mention all that
fuel in the fuselage (cabin)? Not sure where you would put the gascolator
back there. (Fred. Come'er 'n' look at this guy. Whats he doin' on his belly
under the tail like that?)
Keep in mind, most of the problems with experimental aircraft landing where
they had not plan to is fuel or fuel system related. The simpler the better.
One of the many benefits of this excellent design Van has given us is a
tried and true, tail last, alunimum, simple design airplane. If the tail
fuel line was a good idea, it would be standard on a bunch of airplanes. It
isn't. Keep it simple, like our airplanes. Go with what has already been
shown to work well. These ARE experimental aircraft and part of that
designation is to try things that have not been done before, maybe coming up
with another inovation we can all improve our airplanes using. This may not
be one of them. But keep thinking and coming up with stuff. We don't shoot
every idea out of the air.
Welcome to The List. It will be as invaluable as your rivet
gun....................
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
aaaah, this may be a good one for the archives, just in case
Did I mention how well this airplane rolls? You're gonna love your new
airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on oil cooler doors... |
Yep, I'm still here. Go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-6and6A/files/.
Click on N417G to find the pictures.
I've actually been toying with the idea of putting a kit together for others
to use. My door worked very well and was an easy install.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (Sold)
RV-7A (Empennage)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: More on oil cooler doors...
>
> Is Randy Pflanzer still on the list? He had a write-up and some pix of
what
> looked to be a real slick sliding door arrangement on the back baffle. I
> can't get to the pix now, don't know what the deal is there. But you can
> search the archives for "Pflanzer & oil & cooler & door" and find his
> write-up.
>
> I'd have some concerns about David Aronson's deal (the "solanpilots" one
> ref'd below). Looks like an awful lot of moment to hang your cooler out
on.
> A lot of leverage for vibration -- I'd think you'd have to
brace/strengthen
> it a whole lot to avoid cracking of the plenum/baffle. Has David flown it
> yet?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
> > We went through this thread pretty good a year ago. go to this URL for
a
> > very nice approach.
> > http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/paul_golias_ideas.htm#OilCoolerDoor
> > Also go to http://solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
> > for a system that I was working on. I agree with the idea that a door
> > "behind" the oil cooler does little to affect engine oil temp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-320 Accessory Case Oil Return Port |
FOLLOW UP
I forgot I have a Lycoming parts and overhaul manual. No, there is no tube
on the oil return port, it just empties into the sump area, way above the
full oil level. I now suspect the reason I can't blow into the oil return
line may have something to do with the M-20 oil/air separator....I will drop
the input and output hoses from that and see if that is the reason.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel line variations (was some unrelated subject line) |
I think the last note I read on this thread was that we should keep our
systems as simple as possible since many of the accidents are fuel related.
I'm going to mention on the list again that my RV-6A has been flying for two
years without a gascolator, fuel filters, etc. It does have one of Facet's
pumps that is round in shape and is the same as that used on the Cheetah I
owned. Like the Cheetah, the pump is on the engine side of the firewall.
In the nine plus years that I owned the Cheetah, the engine never quit on me
due to fuel contamination. I use auto gas; so, I'm sure some of you will
say I gave it every opportunity. :-) If I build another RV, it will not
have a gascolator on it, either.
BTW, I do use one of the funnels that captures water. One can find them in
Wicks or ASC catalogs. The darned things really do work! I rarely find
more than a drop or two of water in my tanks. When I remove the bottom of
the fuel pump for screen cleaning, there is rarely water or dirt in that. I
just don't worry about it, anymore.
Guys, let's not get carried away with a complex system. Van's system is
fairly simple and works. Mine is simple and works.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
If any of you are considering the Anywhere Map GPS software, you should also
look into NavGPS... It does a lot, but doesn't cost a lot!
www.navgps.net
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD -
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cole, Ed
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC Anywhere?
The Ram Corporation has just developed a line of RAM Mounts for the Compaq
IPAQ
Anywhere Map combination. Email their support staff for part numbers.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long |
On Saturday August 25th at 7:30AM RV-6A N432DG took to the skies over
Glendale Arizona,
three years and 1 month after receiving the quickbuild kit.
Equipment:
New 0-360 engine and Hartzell CS prop from Vans.
Positech 4211 oil cooler on left rear baffle with 4" x 2.75" opening
Sliding Canopy
Electric elevator trim with MAC rocker on inst.panel next to throttle
Garmin 430
Navaid
Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroMonitor (EGT & CHT on all cylinders) and
Microencoder
B& C backup alternator (SD-8)
Weight including everything but paint is 1090#.
Slightly heavy left wing: Squeezed right aileron - solved heavy wing.
Nosewheel shimmy - between 25 and 35mph. Balanced nosewheel and increased
breakout tension - still have shimmy. I have tryed 15 to 30 pounds of air,
less pressure = less shimmy. Breakout tension is 40 pounds. I will check out
of round on the nosewheel next. Other than that, I don't know what else to
try. Any suggestions?
CHT's running 400-425, Oil temp 210-220. Air temps (OAT) during flight are
95-105 degrees.
Update 20 hours: temps are coming down. CHT's 390, Oil temp 180-195 in
cruise, (with 85-100 OAT).
Update 35 hours: CHT's running 350, oil temp 175-185, cruise (with OAT of
60 - 80)
5/16 inch VS offset and the ball is centered with no rudder tab.
Right fuel sender quit after 2 days of fuel immersion. It was prosealed in
with no gasket, and not hard to remove and install a new one from underneath
by removing only 5 screws from wing root fairing. Took less than an hour. No
leaks.
The AN818 "B" nuts connecting the vent tubes inside fuel tank to the
bulkhead fittings were loose. This causes fuel to siphon out until the fuel
level is below the bulkhead fitting whenever the wings warm up and not in
flight. The ram air into the vent keeps the vent line clear in flight.
Removed tanks, and found the nuts not even hand tight. Quickbuilders - make
sure to double check inside the tank when access cover is removed that these
nuts are properly torqued. It will save you 4 - 6 hours of work later.
Electric Bob's Figure Z-8 budget redundant electrical system works great. On
alternator or main regulator fail, pull main alt. field breaker, turn on
Aux. Alternator/essential bus alternate feed switch, Turn off master, and
essential equipment stays powered and battery stays charged.
EZ- Trim altitude hold: Still adjusting. It will hold altitude, then begin
hunting up and down sometimes. There is adjustment for amount of correction
and time between corrections. Haven't flown long enough at one altitude or
spent the time yet to tweek it.
Navaid works as advertised. Tracks to VOR or GPS course. GPS is much better.
RMI MicroMonitor and microEncoder with compass module: Encoder- works great
but air temp probe is in hose from naca duct inlet to eyeball vent. Hot air
from the cowl / firewall gap is entering and raising the air temp several
degrees. I recalibrated to 5 degrees lower and it is pretty accurate when
in flight.
Update. now that it is cooler, when I close the vent, temp at probe goes up
about 5 degrees since air is not flowing. Find someplace else to mount the
OAT probe.
MicroMonitor - Fuel pressure sender is sensitive to restrictor in hose
fitting (according to RMI). Allowable pressure limits are .5-8psi, but low
alarm limit can only be input as 1. Climb, steep turns, any low rpm
operation (taxi) and the fuel pressure reads less than one, causing alarm. I
will open the restrictor from .032 to .063 to fix the problem (I hope).
Update: .063 restrictor nearly eliminates false alarms, will open to .093 at
next cowl removal.
DRE 244e intercom, Dre 6000 ANR headset, Lightspeed 20K headset. ANR
headsets brings the noise level down to a reasonable level. I have "the
insulator" firewall insulation, camping mat foam floor covering and sidewall
upholstery from F602 to F605.
Electric elevator trim stays close to neutral until flaps down, then full up
is not enough to eliminate all stick back pressure for landing. Servo speed
is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to neutral on
touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch can be
tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
Update: with passenger, cg moves aft, giving good trim authority with flaps
down.
Stalls at 52 knots no flaps, 48 knots full flaps. Release back pressure and
it keeps flying like a 172. Right or left wing dips 10 degrees. Buffet just
at the break.
Speed: (TAS)
3000' DA
full throttle (2700 rpm/28.3map) 215mph
2500 rpm /28.4map 210mph
2500 rpm / 25 map 196mph
The engine / prop combination is very smooth. I had my Cessna 172
dynamically balanced and it is no smoother than the RV. I don't know how it
could get much smoother but I might get it balanced anyway.
It is easier to land than a 172, but lots of sink. One mile final at 80
knots and 1000 ft agl, add flaps slow to 70 it still takes a little power to
land on the numbers. (CS Prop)
Keep building!
Dave Biddle
RV-6A Flying
Phoenix, AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos SOS Trivia |
In a message dated 12/11/01 11:46:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
<< I use a towel to pull the prop thru and hand prop the aircraft. It seems
the Russians have been using this technique since day one. >>
How's that again? How about a few more words on how this works.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
On the first fuel tank I did on my -8A, I have some rivets along the back
baffle that didn't quite get flush due to proseal under them. I'm
wondering what's the best way to smooth these down to skin level? Avery
sells a "rivet shaver" bit (for $28 ! ) that can be installed in their
countersink tool. The concept sounds good but others I've talked to
including the guys at Brown and Cleaveland tools say that it doesn't work
very well. The folks at Cleaveland don't even sell it because they say
it's no good, the guy at Brown said he could sell me one but doesn't
think it'll work in a hand drill....it's designed for a high-rpm, special
'rivet shaver' tool used in production lines.
So....any experience with rivet shavers in a countersink, or other
ideas??
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
In a message dated 12/12/01 9:03:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
<< Guys,
On the first fuel tank I did on my -8A, I have some rivets along the back
baffle that didn't quite get flush due to proseal under them. I'm
wondering what's the best way to smooth these down to skin level? Avery
sells a "rivet shaver" bit (for $28 ! ) that can be installed in their
countersink tool. The concept sounds good but others I've talked to
including the guys at Brown and Cleaveland tools say that it doesn't work
very well. The folks at Cleaveland don't even sell it because they say
it's no good, the guy at Brown said he could sell me one but doesn't
think it'll work in a hand drill....it's designed for a high-rpm, special
'rivet shaver' tool used in production lines.
So....any experience with rivet shavers in a countersink, or other
ideas??
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit.... >>
Mark,
I've got a rivet shaver and used it in exactly the same situation - rivets
protruding because of proseal. My experience is that it will work when
mounted in the microstop countersink cage. It works best on flat surfaces,
and is fairly hard to get to "bite" when the rivet is on a curved surface.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
"Lou Seno" , "Joan & Gene Nellis"
From a local flying group list. I thought everyone might find this
interesting and fun. Whilst other might have seen this before I have
not.
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp,
Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care
In hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
While peak gusts from three two zero reached 39 knots.
I sank behind the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
And settled down comfortably, resting my butt.
When over the radio there arose such a clatter,
I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
Asked for clearance to land at the airport below.
He barked out his transmission so lively and quick,
I could have sworn that the call sign he used was "St. Nick".
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Sure that it was only Horizon's late Dash.
Then he called his position, and there could be no denial,
"This is St. Nicholas One and I'm turning on final."
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
A Rutan sleigh, with eight Rotax Reindeer.
Cleared for the ILS, down the glideslope he came,
As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
Those last couple of fixes left the controllers confused,
They called down to the office to give me the news.
The message they left was both urgent and dour:
"When Santa lands, have him please call the tower?"
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
Then I heard "Exit at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi and exited Three-Two,
As he came down the taxiway the sleighbells' jingle grew.
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
I had run out to him with my best set of chocks.
He was dressed all in fur, which was covered with frost
And his beard was all blackened from Rotax Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale,
And he puffed on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly,
His boots were as black as a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, a right jolly old fool,
And he kindly informed me that he needed some fuel.
A wink of his eye and a twist of his toes,
Let me know he was desperate to powder his nose.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
And I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom with a sigh of relief,
And then picked up a phone for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log,
That with Rudolph, he could land in an eighth-mile fog.
Next, he completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear,
Then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk,
He called up the tower for his clearance and squawk.
"After departure fly heading three two zero,"
the tower called forth,
"And watch for a Luscombe inbound from the North."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night,
"Merry Christmas to all! I have traffic in sight."
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder/encoder |
Gary,
There may be some exceptions but I've never found a encoder/transponder
combination that won't work together.
Dave
Gary Gunn wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> Question regarding transponders/encoders.
>
> Will all altitude encoders work with all transponders? In other words,
> if I have a Narco transponder do I need a specific type of encoder for
> it?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
Mark,
I had the same situation with my tanks. Another builder, Terry Cole, gave
me a rivet shaver bit that fits in your countersink stop gauge. Get with me
off list and send me your address. I'll pass it along to you as it was
passed on to me. In reality though, I ended up using a 2" scotchbright
wheel in my die grinder to slightly smooth the protruding rivets down.
Let me know if you want the rivet shaver.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Shaver??
>
> Guys,
>
> On the first fuel tank I did on my -8A, I have some rivets along the back
> baffle that didn't quite get flush due to proseal under them. I'm
> wondering what's the best way to smooth these down to skin level? Avery
> sells a "rivet shaver" bit (for $28 ! ) that can be installed in their
> countersink tool. The concept sounds good but others I've talked to
> including the guys at Brown and Cleaveland tools say that it doesn't work
> very well. The folks at Cleaveland don't even sell it because they say
> it's no good, the guy at Brown said he could sell me one but doesn't
> think it'll work in a hand drill....it's designed for a high-rpm, special
> 'rivet shaver' tool used in production lines.
>
> So....any experience with rivet shavers in a countersink, or other
> ideas??
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC Anywhere? |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Wednesday, December 12, 2001, at 10:46 AM, William Costello wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I am wispering sweet nothings into Santa's ear and GPS is high on the
> list.
> One person told me I should consider the PC Anywhere software and
> peripherals with a Compaq iPAQ. Do any of you folks have this setup
> and, if
> so, how do you like/not like it? I would appreciate an answer directly
> as
> well as to the list, if you desire. Thank you much.
>
> Bill Costello
> Chicago
>
>
There should be some posts in the archives, but I'll be happy to throw
in my $.02
I've had the iPAQ/Anywhere Map setup for almost a year now and am sold
on it. It definitely has room for improvement, but I'm not aware of
anything that can touch it on a cost/performance basis.
Cons:
The iPAQ, like all PDAs is sort of "fussy" to use. The handwriting
recognition is only fair. If, like most of us who are impractical
enough to entertain the idea of building our own airplanes, you are a
geek, this isn't much of a problem ;-)
The setup with the Garmin 35 and using a lighter plug results in wires
all over the cockpit and the connector on the bottom of the iPAQ is not
too robust. Although I haven't had any trouble, some people have
reported problems with the connector coming loose. This should be a lot
better with the newer "Sentinel"GPS which goes into a CF sleeve and
elimiates most of the clutter.
Documentation is only so-so. The software has some great features that
are not immediately obvious, and can only be discovered through trial
and error.
Pros:
The iPAQ is really sunlight readable, even under a bubble canopy.
The software has an amazing amount of information available either on
the screen, or just a tap or two away. The moving map is better than
anything I've seen, short of something like the big Apollo color screen.
You can carry the iPAQ home (or to a hotel room, etc.) and easily do all
your flight planning away from the airplane. It's great having the AOPA
directory available, as well as all your telephone numbers and schedule
(it -is- a PDA after all)
Frequent, reasonably priced, web based updates.
Summary:
If your willing to climb the learning curve, and take the time to
organize the cords, it works amazingly well. Some people won't tolerate
the annoyances. This doesn't make them bad people, but they should
probably also stay away from British cars ;-)
I'm happy to answer specific questions, or let you test drive it if
you're near Memphis.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Kunkel" <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
Mark,
The pneumatic rivet shaver is a precision tool designed to operate in the
20,000 RPM range, adjustable in .005-.001 increments. It also has a skirt on
it designed to keep the bit flush with the shaving surface. The carbide bits
are designed to run with those motors - fast! Carbide is very hard, but it
is also very brittle - drop it & it breaks, dig it in at an angle & it can
shatter, but it will still cut while doing so. The typical microstop
countersink cage is designed to run in the 3,000 RPM range which coincides
with the RPM range on most production drill motors. Can the combination of
the microstop countersink cage & the carbide bit work with a drill motor to
shave rivets? Yes, it can be done, but you might want to practice on some
scrap to make sure it will work for you.
Blue Skies!
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Shaver??
>
> In a message dated 12/12/01 9:03:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
> << Guys,
>
> On the first fuel tank I did on my -8A, I have some rivets along the back
> baffle that didn't quite get flush due to proseal under them. I'm
> wondering what's the best way to smooth these down to skin level? Avery
> sells a "rivet shaver" bit (for $28 ! ) that can be installed in their
> countersink tool. The concept sounds good but others I've talked to
> including the guys at Brown and Cleaveland tools say that it doesn't work
> very well. The folks at Cleaveland don't even sell it because they say
> it's no good, the guy at Brown said he could sell me one but doesn't
> think it'll work in a hand drill....it's designed for a high-rpm, special
> 'rivet shaver' tool used in production lines.
>
> So....any experience with rivet shavers in a countersink, or other
> ideas??
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A waiting for finish kit.... >>
>
> Mark,
>
> I've got a rivet shaver and used it in exactly the same situation - rivets
> protruding because of proseal. My experience is that it will work when
> mounted in the microstop countersink cage. It works best on flat
surfaces,
> and is fairly hard to get to "bite" when the rivet is on a curved surface.
>
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
Hi Listers,
Looking for advise on where to get padding for building the seat bottoms
and backs. Thanks in advance.
Richard Luster
rlluster(at)msn.com
RV9 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi Tech Foam
http://www.seatfoam.com
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com>
> Looking for advise on where to get padding for building the seat bottoms
> and backs. Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Luster
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
Mark
I Have used the rivet shaver and found it adequate (PROVIDED) you take
your time and adjust for small shave, otherwise it may walk on you.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV CHRISTMAS |
A RV Christmas Carrol
Twas the night before Christmas, and all through my home,
I was ready to go flying, and I wasnt alone.
The stockings were hung by the hangers with care,
In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there.
The pilots were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of dogfights danced in their heads.
And my wife in her robe, and me in my flight suit,
Headed straight for the flightline, for a brisk winter scoot.
When out in the lawn, we could hardly believe,
Was a machine so magnificent and they call them RVs.
I lined up with the runway, we flew like a flash,
But there were no Mooneys or Bonanzas to pass.
The moon reflected all the new fallen snow,
Its amazing how small things look down below.
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a miniature sleigh, and eight tiny reindeer.
With a fat old driver, so lively and quick,
That I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.
He was slow as a Cessna, as I quickly came,
And heard him whistled, and called them by name;
Now Dasher, now Dancer, now Prancer, now Visein,
On Comet! On Cupid! On Donder and Blitzen!
Lets go faster now ! cant you see!
Were being passed by a couple in a RV.
He couldnt believe, how my machine could fly,
How quick he could be, and cover the sky.
Side by side we flew, and Santa took note,
Just how many toys, this RV could tote:
And then in a twinkle, he called out to me,
"Hey where can I get myself a RV? "
I shouted back, " what size do you need,
By the looks of your belly, a RV6 indeed."
How quick I could deliver, all my toys in the night,
And how do I obtain, transition training for flight.
A call to Vans Aircraft, I said cheerfully,
Then you will have to build, this thing called RV.
His eyes how they twinkled! The building bug has bit,
On his cell phone he called, and ordered a kit.
I could tell he wanted a ride. As his cheeks filled with droul,
We pulled over and I let him, strap on this lil jewel.
The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,
As we watched the earth grow smaller, quickly beneath.
At blistering speeds, he never felt before,
But due to his size, there would be no RV-4.
I lifted his snowy white beard, so I could see his chin,
He was experiencing his first RV grin.
I must hurry to finish my deliveries tonight,
And get busy building, and one day take flight!
Christmas will never be the same, I heard him yell,
As he putted off into darkness, that RV was swell !!!
No more need for reindeer, or pixi dust!
The sleigh will stay empty, and turn into rust.
The freezer will be full of vinison, for many a year,
When the elves find out, they will stand and cheer.
I heard him exclaim, as he felt so alive,
Have a Merry Christmas to all, and please DONT ARCHIVE !!!!
MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder/encoder |
Some early model Transponders didn't have an encoder port.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder/encoder
Gary,
There may be some exceptions but I've never found a encoder/transponder
combination that won't work together.
Dave
Gary Gunn wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> Question regarding transponders/encoders.
>
> Will all altitude encoders work with all transponders? In other words,
> if I have a Narco transponder do I need a specific type of encoder for
> it?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Call John(?) Fix in Lincoln, Nebraska. He sells tempa (sp?) foam of
different density.
Look at Yeller Pager list and type in "foam" to get his phone number.
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| Just completing 25 hr testing
>Hi Listers,
>
>Looking for advise on where to get padding for building the seat bottoms
>and backs. Thanks in advance.
>
>Richard Luster
>rlluster(at)msn.com
>RV9 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door |
--- Stuart B McCurdy wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> I just finished my RV-8 and now have seventeen hours on it. This is
> the
> way I went about reducing airflow through the cooler in order to
> raise
> the oil temp.
Hi Stu,
This sounds like a better way to go. I like it!
Do you by chance have pictures of this arrangement? I'll be there soon
(hope, hope).
Or perhaps we can get together the next time you have the cowl off and
I'll take my own.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC Anywhere? |
>
>
> Cons:
>
> The iPAQ, like all PDAs is sort of "fussy" to use. The handwriting
> recognition is only fair. If, like most of us who are impractical
> enough to entertain the idea of building our own airplanes, you are a
> geek, this isn't much of a problem ;-)
>
> The setup with the Garmin 35 and using a lighter plug results in wires
> all over the cockpit and the connector on the bottom of the iPAQ is not
> too robust. Although I haven't had any trouble, some people have
> reported problems with the connector coming loose. This should be a lot
> better with the newer "Sentinel"GPS which goes into a CF sleeve and
> elimiates most of the clutter.
>
> Documentation is only so-so. The software has some great features that
> are not immediately obvious, and can only be discovered through trial
> and error.
>
> Pros:
>
> The iPAQ is really sunlight readable, even under a bubble canopy.
>
I think Jim's comments are good. I would like to add that my iPAQ was
sunlight readable sometimes. Other times, especially when I was wearing
sunglasses, it was not readable at all for me. Mine was mounted vertically,
clipped to the edge of the glare shield.
I guess I was one of the "bad"? people as I no longer own mine. Comments in
the archives. I was glad to get back to my very basic panel mount II Morrow
360 GPS. Much easier to use and I can count on it to work correctly.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brent mayo <bmayo(at)planttel.net> |
| Subject: | 72FM prop. for sale |
For Sale
180 H.P. Sensenich 72FM8S9-1(83) Prop.
Spacer, and Bolts. $1500.00 Please email off line at
bmayo(at)planttel.net PH. 478- 275-4320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
Mark
I used one of these when I built my 4 for exactly the same reason. The
results were varied. If you manage to control it propery, it worked fine,
but the countersink doesn't have a wide enough base to prevent it getting
away from you occasionally. You need a fairly fast spin for it to work
propery. The rivit shavers used in manufacturing that I have seen have a
wide tripod arrangement with rubber pats to prevent it starting to spinn
with the shaver. I'd see if I could borrow one somewhere if I was you. It
can be done with the countersink and shaver bit though.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Shaver??
>
> Guys,
>
> On the first fuel tank I did on my -8A, I have some rivets along the back
> baffle that didn't quite get flush due to proseal under them. I'm
> wondering what's the best way to smooth these down to skin level? Avery
> sells a "rivet shaver" bit (for $28 ! ) that can be installed in their
> countersink tool. The concept sounds good but others I've talked to
> including the guys at Brown and Cleaveland tools say that it doesn't work
> very well. The folks at Cleaveland don't even sell it because they say
> it's no good, the guy at Brown said he could sell me one but doesn't
> think it'll work in a hand drill....it's designed for a high-rpm, special
> 'rivet shaver' tool used in production lines.
>
> So....any experience with rivet shavers in a countersink, or other
> ideas??
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Mitchell Lock, et al - RV3 with 0320 & C.S. |
Prop
That's odd. I owned an RV-3 and flew it about 125 hours in 7 months. It had
an O-320 with a metal (but not constant speed) prop and fuselage tank. My
biggest problem was winding up with an AFT cg once most of the fuel was
burned out of the header tank. My battery and strobe power pack were located
in the baggage area. The weight of the pilot was probably a contributing
factor!
Rod Woodard
N99RV Sold 2 years ago
RV-3 #11339 under construction
In a message dated 12/13/01 7:38:34 AM Mountain Standard Time,
bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> FYI: With a std O-320-E2C turning a wood prop and full fuse tanks, I'm right
> on the harry edge of too much forward CG and landings suffer. The nose
> just
> wont stay up. I have the battery mounted in the bagage compartment. Watch
> the weight.
>
> -Bruce
> RV3 N3456B
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long |
In a message dated 12/12/2001 7:57:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dbiddle(at)wans.net writes:
> Servo speed
> is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to neutral on
> touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch can be
> tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
This is interesting; on my 6A the MAC trim is very sensitive in pitch, so
much so that a quick jab on the swith may overshoot the desired trim input.
No speed controller in use, and nothing about my pitch trim takes "forever,"
or even closeto "awhile."
Obviously, YMMV, but this seems to be what most of us have experienced. Is
your trim tab geometry unconventional?
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim speed (was: 40 hour report - Long) |
With regards to the speed at which the MAC servo moves the elevator, what
size elevator trim tab horn is everybody using? I can't find any reference
to the size of the horn that attaches to the under side of the elevator trim
tab to which the servo connecting rod is attached. I can invent one,
however it seems to me that the only part I don't want to invent is the
distance the connecting hole is from the surface of the elevator trim and
how far this is placed from the pivot (hinge line).
Since I need to know these distances, can Bill and Dave (and others?) report
their measurements? ....which may possibly explain how you two have such
different experiences with elevator trim.
Jim
Tampa
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
In a message dated 12/12/2001 7:57:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dbiddle(at)wans.net writes:
> Servo speed
> is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to neutral
on
> touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch can
be
> tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
This is interesting; on my 6A the MAC trim is very sensitive in pitch, so
much so that a quick jab on the swith may overshoot the desired trim input.
No speed controller in use, and nothing about my pitch trim takes "forever,"
or even closeto "awhile."
Obviously, YMMV, but this seems to be what most of us have experienced. Is
your trim tab geometry unconventional?
-Bill B
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report -electric trim |
At cruise, a very quick tap on the MAC rocker does not seem to be too
much. - It is a very quick tap. I am using the MAC rocker, which has 2
microswitches inside it and seems to be able to close and open fast compared
to most switches.
Total time stop to stop on the servo is nearly 20 seconds. I have the
standard electric trim elevator horn, which has a shorter arm than the
manual trim horn.
Ideally, faster trim movement than standard at slow airspeed (<120) and
slower trim movement at cruise would be even better .
---- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long
>
> In a message dated 12/12/2001 7:57:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> dbiddle(at)wans.net writes:
>
> > Servo speed
> > is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to
neutral on
> > touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch
can be
> > tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
>
> This is interesting; on my 6A the MAC trim is very sensitive in pitch, so
> much so that a quick jab on the swith may overshoot the desired trim
input.
> No speed controller in use, and nothing about my pitch trim takes
"forever,"
> or even closeto "awhile."
>
> Obviously, YMMV, but this seems to be what most of us have experienced. Is
> your trim tab geometry unconventional?
>
> -Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed (was: 40 hour report - Long) |
I would offer that slow electric trim is the rule rather than the exception.
I use the Warren Gretz system, but the servo and geometry is similar to Van'
s.
Note that trim authority is reduced as the CG moves forward. I had to add
weight to the tail to achieve a suitable dynamic range: Enough up-trim for
hands-off final approach and enough down-trim for a hands-off high-speed
power-on descent.
My 6A is nose-heavy, 27% aft of forward envelope limit for single-pilot
operation. In a go-around at a modest 10 degree deck angle I reach Vfe long
before the flaps have fully retracted. I call that too slow. The trim is
too fast/sensitive in cruise and too slow in go-arounds.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim speed (was: 40 hour report - Long)
>
> With regards to the speed at which the MAC servo moves the elevator, what
> size elevator trim tab horn is everybody using? I can't find any reference
> to the size of the horn that attaches to the under side of the elevator
trim
> tab to which the servo connecting rod is attached. I can invent one,
> however it seems to me that the only part I don't want to invent is the
> distance the connecting hole is from the surface of the elevator trim and
> how far this is placed from the pivot (hinge line).
>
> Since I need to know these distances, can Bill and Dave (and others?)
report
> their measurements? ....which may possibly explain how you two have such
> different experiences with elevator trim.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
>
> In a message dated 12/12/2001 7:57:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> dbiddle(at)wans.net writes:
>
> > Servo speed
> > is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to
neutral
> on
> > touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch
can
> be
> > tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
>
> This is interesting; on my 6A the MAC trim is very sensitive in pitch, so
> much so that a quick jab on the swith may overshoot the desired trim
input.
> No speed controller in use, and nothing about my pitch trim takes
"forever,"
> or even closeto "awhile."
>
> Obviously, YMMV, but this seems to be what most of us have experienced. Is
> your trim tab geometry unconventional?
>
> -Bill B
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Burt Carlisle" <burtcarlisle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV CHRISTMAS |
________________________________________________________________________________
the older mac servos were very fast and needed a speed control governor. the
newer ones are slower and don't require a speed control.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blue Mountain Efis |
| From: | "Michael Stephan" <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
Has anyone installed the Blue Mountain EFIS-1, or received the equipment?
Thinking about putting it in my -8.
--
Michael Stephan
RV-8 - Just put the gear on.
________________________________________________________________________________
jim
my instructions and kit came with 2 horns. a long and a short, one is to be
used with electric and one is to be used with manual trim systems. i think i
recall using the long one for electric, but will check my plans and let you
know for sure. if you didn't get a set of instructions let me know and i'll
be glad to make you some copies.
scott
tampa
they letten that SOB out today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
I am ready to install antennas and have several questions.
Does anyone have experience with Van's low drag wing tip/nav and
canopy/comm antennas?
Can they be used with a separate glide slope antenna for ILS capabilty?
Any suggestions on how to avoid vulnerability using a standard VOR/GS
antenna on top of the vertical stabilixzer or alternate mounting
location on a tail dragger RV-6 without reducing reception?
ghfrost(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long |
Great report Dave, glad to see your having fun. Here are a couple of things I've
found.
Move temp probe to just outboard of fuel tank, very accurate and easy to do with
tank off.
Don't waste your time with the low fuel pressure issue with your uMonitor. Tim
Lewis and I have spend a lot of time trying to resolve this. Drilling out the
restrictor does nothing, I think the one guy that Ron says got this to work was
mistaken. The problem is the sender will not accurately read below 1.5 lb.
pressure. Sure looks like everything is coming together. Dianne and I are going
on a fly about (Garry speak for just flying around) in Arizona the first week of
January. Can drop by if you want, contact off list.
Garry "Casper"
Dave Biddle wrote:
>
> On Saturday August 25th at 7:30AM RV-6A N432DG took to the skies over
> Glendale Arizona,
> three years and 1 month after receiving the quickbuild kit.
>
> Equipment:
> New 0-360 engine and Hartzell CS prop from Vans.
> Positech 4211 oil cooler on left rear baffle with 4" x 2.75" opening
> Sliding Canopy
> Electric elevator trim with MAC rocker on inst.panel next to throttle
> Garmin 430
> Navaid
> Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroMonitor (EGT & CHT on all cylinders) and
> Microencoder
> B& C backup alternator (SD-8)
> Weight including everything but paint is 1090#.
>
> Slightly heavy left wing: Squeezed right aileron - solved heavy wing.
> Nosewheel shimmy - between 25 and 35mph. Balanced nosewheel and increased
> breakout tension - still have shimmy. I have tryed 15 to 30 pounds of air,
> less pressure = less shimmy. Breakout tension is 40 pounds. I will check out
> of round on the nosewheel next. Other than that, I don't know what else to
> try. Any suggestions?
>
> CHT's running 400-425, Oil temp 210-220. Air temps (OAT) during flight are
> 95-105 degrees.
> Update 20 hours: temps are coming down. CHT's 390, Oil temp 180-195 in
> cruise, (with 85-100 OAT).
> Update 35 hours: CHT's running 350, oil temp 175-185, cruise (with OAT of
> 60 - 80)
>
> 5/16 inch VS offset and the ball is centered with no rudder tab.
>
> Right fuel sender quit after 2 days of fuel immersion. It was prosealed in
> with no gasket, and not hard to remove and install a new one from underneath
> by removing only 5 screws from wing root fairing. Took less than an hour. No
> leaks.
>
> The AN818 "B" nuts connecting the vent tubes inside fuel tank to the
> bulkhead fittings were loose. This causes fuel to siphon out until the fuel
> level is below the bulkhead fitting whenever the wings warm up and not in
> flight. The ram air into the vent keeps the vent line clear in flight.
> Removed tanks, and found the nuts not even hand tight. Quickbuilders - make
> sure to double check inside the tank when access cover is removed that these
> nuts are properly torqued. It will save you 4 - 6 hours of work later.
>
> Electric Bob's Figure Z-8 budget redundant electrical system works great. On
> alternator or main regulator fail, pull main alt. field breaker, turn on
> Aux. Alternator/essential bus alternate feed switch, Turn off master, and
> essential equipment stays powered and battery stays charged.
>
> EZ- Trim altitude hold: Still adjusting. It will hold altitude, then begin
> hunting up and down sometimes. There is adjustment for amount of correction
> and time between corrections. Haven't flown long enough at one altitude or
> spent the time yet to tweek it.
>
> Navaid works as advertised. Tracks to VOR or GPS course. GPS is much better.
>
> RMI MicroMonitor and microEncoder with compass module: Encoder- works great
> but air temp probe is in hose from naca duct inlet to eyeball vent. Hot air
> from the cowl / firewall gap is entering and raising the air temp several
> degrees. I recalibrated to 5 degrees lower and it is pretty accurate when
> in flight.
> Update. now that it is cooler, when I close the vent, temp at probe goes up
> about 5 degrees since air is not flowing. Find someplace else to mount the
> OAT probe.
>
> MicroMonitor - Fuel pressure sender is sensitive to restrictor in hose
> fitting (according to RMI). Allowable pressure limits are .5-8psi, but low
> alarm limit can only be input as 1. Climb, steep turns, any low rpm
> operation (taxi) and the fuel pressure reads less than one, causing alarm. I
> will open the restrictor from .032 to .063 to fix the problem (I hope).
> Update: .063 restrictor nearly eliminates false alarms, will open to .093 at
> next cowl removal.
>
> DRE 244e intercom, Dre 6000 ANR headset, Lightspeed 20K headset. ANR
> headsets brings the noise level down to a reasonable level. I have "the
> insulator" firewall insulation, camping mat foam floor covering and sidewall
> upholstery from F602 to F605.
>
> Electric elevator trim stays close to neutral until flaps down, then full up
> is not enough to eliminate all stick back pressure for landing. Servo speed
> is plenty slow with no speed controller - takes forever going to neutral on
> touch and goes and to full up when lowering flaps. MAC rocker switch can be
> tapped quickly at cruise for fine adjustment.
> Update: with passenger, cg moves aft, giving good trim authority with flaps
> down.
>
> Stalls at 52 knots no flaps, 48 knots full flaps. Release back pressure and
> it keeps flying like a 172. Right or left wing dips 10 degrees. Buffet just
> at the break.
>
> Speed: (TAS)
> 3000' DA
> full throttle (2700 rpm/28.3map) 215mph
> 2500 rpm /28.4map 210mph
> 2500 rpm / 25 map 196mph
>
> The engine / prop combination is very smooth. I had my Cessna 172
> dynamically balanced and it is no smoother than the RV. I don't know how it
> could get much smoother but I might get it balanced anyway.
>
> It is easier to land than a 172, but lots of sink. One mile final at 80
> knots and 1000 ft agl, add flaps slow to 70 it still takes a little power to
> land on the numbers. (CS Prop)
>
> Keep building!
>
> Dave Biddle
> RV-6A Flying
> Phoenix, AZ.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: antennas (advertisement) |
Hi All,
There is no compromise when you use the Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna.
Optimum reception, and no drag.
(And no poked eyeballs from the VS VOR antenna on a taildragger.) :-)
Bob Archer's Sportcraft wingtip COM antenna is an option for COM.
No drag, and reception is comparable to a belly mounted COM antenna.
The RVator listed the canopy COM antenna receiving Hillsboro ATIS out to 40
miles. Bob Archer's Sportcraft COM antenna on the vertical stabilizer was
already picking up the Hillsboro ATIS 86 miles out at 4,500'.
Production Vertical Stabilizer (VS) fairings for Bob Archer's VS COM antenna
are available for the RV-3.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc. - A Sportcraft Distributor.
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long |
In a message dated 12/13/01 10:16:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
"versadek"@earthlink.net writes:
<< Move temp probe to just outboard of fuel tank, very accurate and easy to
do with
tank off. >>
Gary: Where is your probe in relation to the leading edge of the wing?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim speed (was: 40 hour report - Long) |
In a message dated 12/13/2001 12:21:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> In a go-around at a modest 10 degree deck angle I reach Vfe long
> before the flaps have fully retracted. I call that too slow. The trim is
> too fast/sensitive in cruise and too slow in go-arounds.
\Not to worry, Dennis - a long time ago I accidentally opened that part of
the RV-6A performance envelope by forgetting to raise 20 degrees of flaps
from a soft/wet field takeoff (I know, that was too much flap for that, but I
was a newbie) and found that the plane and the flap retraction mechanism will
function fine at 135 mph IAS, but it's a balls to the wall, what the heck is
wrong with my airplane type of feeling.
Wasn't there lots of discussion here or on the avionics list about a pitot
mechanism to toggle between fast and slow trim tab speeds? I thought I
remembered that.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-320 Oil Return Port problem |
I am embarrased to admit how I found out why I could not blow air into the
oil return port during some checking while installing the M-20 air/oil
separator. My hangar neighbor (an AP/IA) was ready to have me pull off the
accessory case from the engine and look for the obstruction.
I had tried to blow into the oil return port with a short piece of hose
slipped over the hose fitting, but the scrap of hose I had was too short, so
I slipped a short piece of aluminum tube into the end and added another
scrap of tubing...clamped the two pieces together with hose clamps....
Turned out the short piece of tube I used wasn't a tube, it was a solid rod
of aluminum that looked like a piece of tube....
Wow...how stupid, but I am relieved that I don't have to pull the accessary
case.\
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | antennas (advertisement) |
How about for the old style 6 vs?
Ed Holyoke
6QB
Production Vertical Stabilizer (VS) fairings for Bob Archer's VS COM
antenna
are available for the RV-3.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc. - A Sportcraft Distributor.
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
"The Weasel-L List"
| Subject: | My first SOLO flight N561FS |
Hi Everybody,
Well the day has finally come. This morning, I finished my 5 hours with an
instructor to make the insurance company happy. After a short flight this
morning, the instructor said he wanted out. So after the proper logbook
endorsements, I TOOK OFF ON MY FIRST SOLO FLIGHT IN THE GUMMO SPECIAL.
WOW. As everybody says, with two the performance is good but solo it is
great.
My general comments are what a great plane. There are several items on the
tobe fixed list. While the engine runs great, the throttle and mixture
controls need a little adjustment. At 160 KIAS, the ball is off to the
right, a small wedge on the rudder may be in order. At pattern speeds, it
is about centered and flys hands off. The left wing started slighty heavy
but was an easy fix.
One of the reasons for the insurance company not allowing me to conduct the
first flight was my 30 day/90 day/12 month flight times: ZERO, ZERO, and 5
hours. I got one flight in my instructors C-140 and I must of done O.K. as
he then jumped into the back of the rocket (Without a throttle or rudder
pedals). And I started my checkout. Of course, he owned me as I allowed
him to do the first flights.
My first TO used all the runways width as I cant see over the nose and had
started to drift by the time the tail came up and I could see. The rudder
was very effective and control was quickly gained back. I havent found
the sweet spot on the elevator trim for TO yet, but the rest of my TOs used
only the center of the runway. My first landing was my worst. I flared
about a foot or more high when the wing stalled. The gear just took it and
there was no bounce. The rest were graded in the good column. All I can
say, so far the rocket makes the landings easy.
My airspeed indicator is in Knots and has not been tested. So the following
numbers are just for my plane. With two 200+ persons, the stall speed was
60 KIAS flaps up and 55 KIAS flaps down. With one person, the stall speeds
were 55 and 50 knots. There is very little warning and the left wing just
drops about 15 to 20 degrees. Just release the backpressure on the stick
and it was flying again.
Anyway, there is too much fun to be had so more numbers/temperatures will
come in the future.
KEEP BUILDING, IT IS WORTH IT!
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA (APV)
N561FS , Harmon Rocket II, flying (sounds greats)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A N432DG 40 hour report - Long |
Just in front of the spar.
Garry "Casper"
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/13/01 10:16:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> "versadek"@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Move temp probe to just outboard of fuel tank, very accurate and easy to
> do with
> tank off. >>
>
> Gary: Where is your probe in relation to the leading edge of the wing?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My first SOLO flight N561FS |
Tom,
CONGRATULATIONS !! CONGRATULATIONS !! CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List" , "The Weasel-L List"
>
>Subject: RV-List: My first SOLO flight N561FS
>Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 14:23:36 -0800
>
>
>Hi Everybody,
>
>Well the day has finally come.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Interesting thread on hand propping. I teach this in one of my Powerplant
courses and its really not that hard, nor dangerous.
First rule, know the person at the controls. Know what their capabilities
are, and know that they are absolutely and totally convinced that you are in
charge.
Second rule, If the engine is indexed correctly to the prop the blade will
be on the down stroke, right side, at nineish, for compression. However you
pull it through, position yourself so that the motion of pulling it through
is a direction that is moving you away at a 45deg angle from the plane of
rotation. On some low engine aircraft this can put your starting position at
the plane of rotation. The common mistake is to keep your body away from the
prop with your arms straight out, which then puts you leaning into it while
you're pulling with all your might.
Its like a swimmers stroke, the hands travel straight down and around fairly
close to your body so you have leverage. Towards the end of the stroke your
tendancy will then be to move backwards and off to the port side of the
aircraft. Hand position should be about midspan on the blade, and finger
tips should be no more then half a knuckle over the trailing edge. Swing one
foot under the plane of rotation and then swing it back, as it passes out of
the plane of rotation start down with the blade using your body's momentum
downward and portward to swing the prop through two compression cycles if
possible. If it starts, think about slowing down because you will gradually
become aware that you've already made it to the other side of the airport
and you have a long walk back to the airplane. This walk will be needed as
it takes a while to go through all that adrenaline you just produced.
Third rule, clean flat area, no gravel, dogs, people etc.
Fourth rule, you are in charge, no one else speaks except for the person at
the controls who only reads back your directions as they complete them.
Fifth rule, if you're tired, back off and take a rest. Then make sure the
fuel is turned on, the mags are on when you want them on, etc.
The yank that starts it is actually very easy to pull through because it
generally helps you. Bigger engines aren't necessarily harder to pull
through, but higher compression ones are. The other ones that can be a pain
are ones with no primer/accelerator pumps as its kinda hard to get fuel
vapor up into the cylinders. Its usually a good idea to shoot a shot with
the acc pump or primer, then pull the prop through a few blades with the
mags off. Expect it to start, as the mags could be live. Then turn them on
and give it a go.
I wouldn't use the towel idea unless the crankshaft centerline is something
above your shoulder line, as the length of the towel from the prop to your
hands will have you bending over as you pull it through. Which is a bad
place to have your head when it starts.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Shaver?? |
Mark,
I got one of the shaver bits from Avery. It's trickey to use, but with a
little practice I managed to get the job done. I found that a little aluminum
cutting oil helped me get better results. For me it was worth the trouble not
to have rivet heads sticking out there.
Pat Allender RV4-Flying. You are really going to love your RV.
Iowa City Get out there and get to work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> Does anyone have experience with Van's low drag wing tip/nav and
> canopy/comm antennas?
>
> Can they be used with a separate glide slope antenna for ILS
> capabilty?
I used Bob Archer's wingtip nav antenna. Great results. No drag,
good reception. Using a standard 1-to-3 aviation splitter, I'm able to
drive the VOR, ILS, and GS receivers using the wintip antenna. Quite
a few ILSs in actual, no problems.
There is a VERY narrow VOR notch off one side of the plane using
this antenna. Bob Archer told me about it, and I was able to find it
with a very careful search. It has never been an issue in everyday
flying. (VOR is just a backup for GPS anyway).
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com> |
I did a test flight on brand X this week and everything went smoothly exept
for the engine power.
The engine is the Lycoming H2AD.
At full power it sounds rough and I can smooth it out and gain up to 150 RPM
by pulling the mixture back 1/2" .
We tried capping off the primer lines, no change.
Remove the air filter, no change.
No intake leaks, plugs are clean.
Anything else we should look at before sending the carb out?
Thanks,
Michel
RV81117 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Rocket Fairings on RV6 |
I have an older RV6 kit, and I purchased the gear and intersection fairings
from Team Rocket. I saw some beautiful pictures of this installation on Sam
Buchanan's web site. However, he said he used Van's hinge method of
fastening the trailing edge of the gear leg fairings, rather than fiberglass
as per Team Rocket, so they would be removable. I do not have any plans or
instructions for this "hinge" method of fastening the fairings. I have
trial fitted some light hinge in this position, but it is not obvious
whether the hinge pin should be facing forward or toward the trailing edge,
and I am afraid of drilling and doing something stupid. Anybody have any
clues as to how this installation should be done? I called the factory, but
they said they really do not have anything but some pictures. Any help
would be greatly appreciated. Hope to be flying when the sun comes back to
this country. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Vac Reg |
--- KAKlewin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Poll of the Listers...
>
> I mounted the Vac Reg on the firewall, about 3 in below the top,
> and am
> now having second thoughts. It is going to be next to impossible to
> change
> the filter (which I think is done every 150 hours or so) with it
> mounted
> there. Any problem with running a bit more hose and putting it lower
> (in a
> more serviceable) position.
>
> Any ideas appreciated....
>
> Kurt in OKC, RV6A, Finish Kit
Kurt:
Mine is about 2" down. It is impossible to change in the airplane. I
have found it very easy to just remove the regulator during an oil
change that occurs for the 100 hour replacement. Yes I have been
guilty and let it go 300 to 400 hours becasue it still looked clean. I
have also been know to install 2 filters and just pull the outside
dirty one off. Once you get over 40, it is hard to work under the
panel anyway. Complete removal of the regulator to replace the filter
is not difficult. Less then 15 minutes to take it out, change filter,
and reinstall it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Fairings on RV6 |
I just recently did this per Sam's suggestion. Basically the hinge will
follow the trailing edge, with flanges of the hinges on the inside between
the fairing halves. The hinge pin and eyelets are just outside of the
trailing edge of the fairing. You can fasten the hinge pin inside the
intersection fairing, and then just take the intersection fairing off and
pull the pin out if you have to remove the gear leg fairing. There is not
really a wrong/right way to do it..just play around with it and you will see
how it can go together. Make sure you put all pieces together when you do
it, or nothing will fit very well. I mean, make sure you have the upper and
lower intersection fairings in place to make sure that you keep everything
aligned.
Probably didn't help much, now that I read it. Just do it and it will work
itself out!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rocket Fairings on RV6
>
> I have an older RV6 kit, and I purchased the gear and intersection
fairings
> from Team Rocket. I saw some beautiful pictures of this installation on
Sam
> Buchanan's web site. However, he said he used Van's hinge method of
> fastening the trailing edge of the gear leg fairings, rather than
fiberglass
> as per Team Rocket, so they would be removable. I do not have any plans
or
> instructions for this "hinge" method of fastening the fairings. I have
> trial fitted some light hinge in this position, but it is not obvious
> whether the hinge pin should be facing forward or toward the trailing
edge,
> and I am afraid of drilling and doing something stupid. Anybody have any
> clues as to how this installation should be done? I called the factory,
but
> they said they really do not have anything but some pictures. Any help
> would be greatly appreciated. Hope to be flying when the sun comes back
to
> this country. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, Alaska
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
> Any suggestions on how to avoid vulnerability using a standard VOR/GS
> antenna on top of the vertical stabilixzer or alternate mounting
> location on a tail dragger RV-6 without reducing reception?
I am very satisfied with the reception from my bottom-mounted "cat whisker"
NAV/GS antenna. I have a splitter to allow the use of the single antenna for
both VOR and G/S. The antenna is mounted to the bottom of the fuselage right
under the tail so it never gets kicked, and the whiskers are pointed aft so
they don't catch grass, etc. I fly IFR with it including ILS approaches and
have never had a problem with reception. The only exception is picking up
stations while on the ground. But that's not when/where I'm navigating
anyway!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | elevator clearing HS skin |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I had to file the edges of both my horizontal and vertical stabs to get
the 1/4" clearance Van specifies. I know a lot of guys go with less
clearance than this, but remember you are eroding your safety margin by
doing so. After seeing pictures of that birdstrike on the RV-6A
horizontal stab a few weeks ago, and the amount of deformation it caused,
it seems prudent to keep a reasonable gap between the elevators and hor.
stab. If a bird strike deforms things enough to jam your elevator, it
will almost certainly be fatal. Granted 1/4" may not save your bacon
either, but it's a bit more margin than 1/16"....just something to
consider.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
That's one of the things that I'm currently working on...since I saw it
mentioned, I thought that I should check mine.....sure enough, I'll have
to
break out the files too. I can get them to swing through but they're
touching...1/16" should do it...I think that 1/4" might be a bit much
IMVHO.
Thanks for the heads-up...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Thanks for the positive input on rivet shavers, sounds like the consensus
is that if done carefully, it will work when used in a microstop
countersink. I'm taking Eric Newton up on his offer to send me his rivet
shaver. Great list.....just saved me more money than I sent Matt Dralle
this year, maybe I'll have to donate some more!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit....pleeeeaaase Santa get it here before my
Christmas break....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | transponder/encoder |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Gary, most transponders and encoders use a protocol called the ICAO Grey
Code, to the best of my knowledge virtually all modern units follow this
standard including Narco, Garmin, King, etc etc. I know there have been
a few exceptions in the past but unless you are using some very old,
obscure unit you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
-----------------------
From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: transponder/encoder
Hi all,
Question regarding transponders/encoders.
Will all altitude encoders work with all transponders? In other words,
if I have a Narco transponder do I need a specific type of encoder for
it?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Scott,
I think there's good reason to be concerned about hand-propping dangers.
Your comparison to hand-propping for those who have only used electric
starters being like taildraggers for tri-gear pilots may not be a comfort
for those of us who know experienced tail-dragger pilots who have ground
looped, flipped over, or otherwise piled up their taildragger : )
Applying this logic to handpropping might bring one to the correct
conclusion that even with proper training and technique, you can still
get hurt hand-propping an airplane. I learned the proper technique in
A&P school and have hand-propped a number of engine-prop-aircraft
combinations just like you. Even propped an R-985 one time (it worked
out ok but I wouldn't do it again). But I've also been injured by a
handpropping incident where the engine kicked back and slapped my hand so
hard I had several fingers swollen and purple for a few weeks.
Fortunately I was using proper technique....I did NOT have my fingertips
curled over the edge of the blade, or it probably would have taken them
off altogether. I also know a guy who was handpropping a Cessna and
somehow slipped and got hit in the head with a metal prop. I'm not sure
what happened because I didn't see it, but he was a mechanic with 30+
years experience. It's a miracle that he survived the incident and isn't
even a vegetable at that.
Just my humblest opinion, that if it can possibly be avoided, don't hand
prop.... and if it must be done, make sure you do know the correct
technique and if you are working with someone (i.e. they are in the
cockpit and you are propping it) make sure they know what to do too.
No flame intended, just my two cents...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A waiting for finish kit....and waiting.....and waiting.....
_______
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick....
Hand propping has the same mystique to it for those who are used to
electric
starters as tailwheel aircraft do to those who have only flown
nosewheels.
It's only mysterious and scary until you've been taught the "propper"
(pun
intended) way to do it and done it a few times. Or in my case a few
hundred
times. I've propped Cubs, Champs, 150s and 172s. Actually the most
difficult was the C-150 because the prop is so low to the ground.
Luckily
so am I so there wasn't much problem.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hyde [mailto:DonH(at)axonn.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick....
Thanks for this trick. This way I just may someday work up the nerve to
pull an engine through.
As a youth I got my hand whacked a few times by a prop attached to a .15
cu.
in. model engine. The result was a few bandaids, and I healed in a few
days. I still remember how that witches-brew fuel made the cuts sting.
The thought of getting mixed up in a prop attached to 300+ cu. in. gives
me
a worse scare than anything else in aviation. This is especially true
when
I'm in front of a rented Cessna where I have never even had a chance to
examine the 30-year-old wires and ignition switch that are supposed to be
making those magnetos safe.
Cars lost their cranks 75 years ago, and it takes a really die-hard
nostalgia enthusiast to miss them. My mother was just old enough to have
seen her father hurt himself more than once cranking the family model T.
If
20 horses with ridiculously low compression can break your arm, I'm not
sorry I missed it a bit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Mounting Vac Reg |
Poll of the Listers...
I mounted the Vac Reg on the firewall, about 3 in below the top, and am
now having second thoughts. It is going to be next to impossible to change
the filter (which I think is done every 150 hours or so) with it mounted
there. Any problem with running a bit more hose and putting it lower (in a
more serviceable) position.
Any ideas appreciated....
Kurt in OKC, RV6A, Finish Kit
Hi Kurt
My regulator is in about the same place, just riveted the forward top skin
on about ten days ago and while bucking rivets under the panel I had a look
at the regulator and asked myself that same question. - Yes mine will be OK,
(no other obstructions in the area). The garter filter should come off and
on OK.
In fact it's not bad access to most items behind/under my panel. Better than
some Cess/Pipes that I have worked on. The Secret is - mount fuel selector
so it is below top of spar and make a small platform to lay on. Mine is
plywood, narrower and longer than a creeper and with legs (actually plywood
crosspiece's) that rest on the floor and seat pan and keep it just above the
wing spar. With a seat back removed I can work under the panel quite
comfortably.
George McNutt,
Langley B.C
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Pat, how many hours do you have now? When are you gonna fly up to
McBride and give me my first ride in an RV-4? (I live a mile away from
McB.). I could use some inspiration while I wait for my finish kit....
--Mark
_______
From: RV4PatA(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Shaver??
Mark,
I got one of the shaver bits from Avery. It's trickey to use, but with
a
little practice I managed to get the job done. I found that a little
aluminum
cutting oil helped me get better results. For me it was worth the trouble
not
to have rivet heads sticking out there.
Pat Allender RV4-Flying. You are really going to love your RV.
Iowa City Get out there and get to work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Mounted the compass on the (stainless) roll bar support in my 6-A and
discovered that I have about a 50 degree error in the new SIRS Compass. Lots
of magnetism in the roll bar and other steel parts.
My question - Powder Coating is a electrostatic process, does it leave a
magnetic field?
Any suggestions for getting rid of the magnetism.
Thanks
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Anywhere Map was PC anywhere |
I just finished flying a beautiful RV-9 from Seattle to Bridgeport, CT that
was equipped with a Compaq Ipaq and Anywhere Map. The plane also had a
Garmin 430 and I brought my Garmin 195 along too. All 3 were used for the
entire flight so I got to compare pretty well. Based on that, my opinion is
that the Anywhere Map software is the most AMAZING thing I've seen in
navigation. However, it is severely hampered and I might even say
compromised by the platform it must run on. There were times in flight,
with light turbulence when I couldn't poke the little stylus on the right
key on the "virtual" keyboard. Keep in mind that the letter key is smaller
than the head of a pencil eraser. The whole time I kept thinking, WOW this
is fantastic, but I can't access it because its too picky. I kept thinking
how great it would have been if it had made use of the Compaq's "hard"
buttons. The machine has a 4 way rocker. Maybe you rock up to advance the
letters, and sideways to go to the next letter. The instalation in the RV-9
was neat so there were no visible wires.
The Anywhere Map guys would do well to investigate a semi-custom piece of
hardware to run their amazing software on.
By the way, for VFR flight. The GNS 430 had nothing on my clunky old 195
other than a color screen.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Don, What did you think of the RV-9?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
-----Original Message-----
I just finished flying a beautiful RV-9 from Seattle to Bridgeport, CT that
was equipped with a .....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Fairings on RV6 |
I don't know if this will help with your fairings but I installed the
fiberglass fairings from Van's with the hinge inside and hidden. The hinge
eyelet's face the inside of the fairing and the flanges face aft. It holds
the trailing edge of the fairing nice and tight. The hinge pin is secured
via a small hole in the fairing and safety wire. You can see a few pictures
of it on my website. I didn't take any pictures of the hinge itself but if
you look through the various pics you will see the hinge in a couple of the
photos because the gear leg fairing is transparent. To see the page go
here:
http://enewton.addr.com/finish/wheelpants.html
If you need better pics let me know and I'll try to get them for you.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying - but down for painting)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rocket Fairings on RV6
>
> I have an older RV6 kit, and I purchased the gear and intersection
fairings
> from Team Rocket. I saw some beautiful pictures of this installation on
Sam
> Buchanan's web site. However, he said he used Van's hinge method of
> fastening the trailing edge of the gear leg fairings, rather than
fiberglass
> as per Team Rocket, so they would be removable. I do not have any plans
or
> instructions for this "hinge" method of fastening the fairings. I have
> trial fitted some light hinge in this position, but it is not obvious
> whether the hinge pin should be facing forward or toward the trailing
edge,
> and I am afraid of drilling and doing something stupid. Anybody have any
> clues as to how this installation should be done? I called the factory,
but
> they said they really do not have anything but some pictures. Any help
> would be greatly appreciated. Hope to be flying when the sun comes back
to
> this country. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, Alaska
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map was PC anywhere |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, December 14, 2001, at 01:04 PM, Donald Mei wrote:
> There were times in flight,
> with light turbulence when I couldn't poke the little stylus on the right
> key on the "virtual" keyboard. Keep in mind that the letter key is
> smaller
> than the head of a pencil eraser. The whole time I kept thinking, WOW
> this
> is fantastic, but I can't access it because its too picky. I kept
> thinking
> how great it would have been if it had made use of the Compaq's "hard"
> buttons. The machine has a 4 way rocker. Maybe you rock up to advance
> the
> letters, and sideways to go to the next letter. The instalation in the
> RV-9
> was neat so there were no visible wires.
>
This is definitely an issue, but it has been addressed (at least somewhat)
in later versions of the software. Unfortunately, the manual hasn't yet
been updated to reflect it AFAIK but they tell me an updated manual will
come with the next (imminent) update release which also adds approaches
and some other new features.
Currently, (I'm running 1.18.1) if you depress the center of the 4-way
"hat switch," it brings up the "rough air interface" which populates the
bottom of the screen with large (1/2") buttons which you can hit with
stubby fingers instead of the stylus. There are several layers of buttons,
but they work just as you describe, using the hat switch to choose
letters, etc.
Trying to make extensive changes to your route in rough air is tedious,
sort of like setting a digital watch using just the four buttons, but
really isn't too bad. I find that I'm am faster, even with the rough air
mode, than my Garmin III Pilot GPS. In smooth air or sitting on the
ground there is no comparison.
It's not for everybody though. Although I love it, I appreciate why many
don't. My brother loves to use GPS/moving map on his laptop on long car
trips, but I can't stand it. I complain about the wires, hard to read
screen, and I don't have enough attention to divert while driving. We both
love the AWM though, go figure ;)
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
Thanks,
I had not read that van's specified 1/4". Glad I'm not done yet and there
are folks keeping me honest...
Ralph Capen
<>
> I had to file the edges of both my horizontal and vertical stabs to get
> the 1/4" clearance Van specifies. I know a lot of guys go with less
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
| Subject: | wingtip lights and strobes |
For those who are interested, I just added a bunch of stuff to my website
about the inexpensive strobes/nav and landing lights that I installed in my
RV-7 wingtips this week. I am pleased with them.
Paste the long link below back together if necessary. Or just go to my home
page and click on the wing section and scroll to the bottom.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20t
he%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
Vince
F-1H Rocket (just the wingtips are RV-7)
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html home page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Fairings on RV6 |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I just recently did this per Sam's suggestion. Basically the hinge will
> follow the trailing edge, with flanges of the hinges on the inside between
> the fairing halves. The hinge pin and eyelets are just outside of the
> trailing edge of the fairing.
I mounted the hinge so the eyelets and pin were inside the trailing edge
and the trailing edges almost touched each other. A gap of about 1/16"
was left between the trailing edges so the paint would not chip as the
fairings were subjected to the slipstream.
Eric Newton suggested mounting the hinges with the eyelets facing
forward so the trailing edges would be held tightly together; this
sounds like a very satisfactory method.......wish I had thought of
that..... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Fairings on RV6 |
With Van's, the hinge goes in with the pin on the TE side. You slide the
hinge Vee-assembly up the included angle until the fairing edges mate, and
ideally are under compression.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rocket Fairings on RV6
>
> I have an older RV6 kit, and I purchased the gear and intersection
fairings
> from Team Rocket. I saw some beautiful pictures of this installation on
Sam
> Buchanan's web site. However, he said he used Van's hinge method of
> fastening the trailing edge of the gear leg fairings, rather than
fiberglass
> as per Team Rocket, so they would be removable. I do not have any plans
or
> instructions for this "hinge" method of fastening the fairings. I have
> trial fitted some light hinge in this position, but it is not obvious
> whether the hinge pin should be facing forward or toward the trailing
edge,
> and I am afraid of drilling and doing something stupid. Anybody have any
> clues as to how this installation should be done? I called the factory,
but
> they said they really do not have anything but some pictures. Any help
> would be greatly appreciated. Hope to be flying when the sun comes back
to
> this country. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, Alaska
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
This area is area is also prone to ice accretion, albieit an unlikely
scenario, but one to consider. The wider gap tolerates more ice buildup
before jamming.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
> I had to file the edges of both my horizontal and vertical stabs to get
> the 1/4" clearance Van specifies. I know a lot of guys go with less
> clearance than this, but remember you are eroding your safety margin by
> doing so. After seeing pictures of that birdstrike on the RV-6A
> horizontal stab a few weeks ago, and the amount of deformation it caused,
> it seems prudent to keep a reasonable gap between the elevators and hor.
> stab. If a bird strike deforms things enough to jam your elevator, it
> will almost certainly be fatal. Granted 1/4" may not save your bacon
> either, but it's a bit more margin than 1/16"....just something to
> consider.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
>
>
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
>
> That's one of the things that I'm currently working on...since I saw it
> mentioned, I thought that I should check mine.....sure enough, I'll have
> to
> break out the files too. I can get them to swing through but they're
> touching...1/16" should do it...I think that 1/4" might be a bit much
> IMVHO.
>
> Thanks for the heads-up...
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Working under the panel |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
At 6'4", 210 lbs and in the over-40 crowd, it's very difficult for me
to work under the panel. What I devised is a rectangular 3/8" plywood
sheet that I can lay on. The plywood lays over the spar bulkhead, the
forward end rests on the battery box and the aft end is supported by
two "feet" made out of 2x4 segments. There is a circular hole cutout
for the fuel selector valve, a notch on the left side for the pilots
control stick which is in full left deflection, and a small notch to
accommodate the electric flap housing. At various points layers of duct
tape on the board protect the airplane interior from scratches.
To install the seats come out, the co-pilots control stick comes off,
and one of the rudder cable bolts comes off at the rudder horn so that
the overhead pedals can move full forward. The board goes in with the
aft "feet" over rib centerlines, and the forward tip on the battery box.
Using the board provides a flat surface to lay on and perform work on
the instrument stack. Legs go up and over the crossmember that supports
the seat back. Installation takes 5 minutes.
Obviously this will not work on those airplanes with the center console
installed. Those who have installed a lower panel extension may be,
er, um. . .girth-constrained. Those who were smart enough to lower the
fuel selector valve to be lower than the seat pans (as I was not) will
reap the additional benefit of not having the fuel selector in their
back.
John Allen
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map was PC anywhere |
Don,
I agree that I have no chance use the type, but am amazed at how much
turbence that I can still use the optional written mode. By supporting my
hand on the right side of the mount, I can find a location in zip time
compared to rocker mode using the large finger option as described by James
Freeman.
Bernie Kerr
Based on that, my opinion is
> that the Anywhere Map software is the most AMAZING thing I've seen in
> navigation. However, it is severely hampered and I might even say
> compromised by the platform it must run on. There were times in flight,
> with light turbulence when I couldn't poke the little stylus on the right
> key on the "virtual" keyboard. Keep in mind that the letter key is
smaller
> than the head of a pencil eraser. The whole time I kept thinking, WOW
this
> is fantastic, but I can't access it because its too picky. I kept
thinking
> how great it would have been if it had made use of the Compaq's "hard"
> buttons. The machine has a 4 way rocker. Maybe you rock up to advance
the
> letters, and sideways to go to the next letter. The instalation in the
RV-9
> was neat so there were no visible wires.
>
> The Anywhere Map guys would do well to investigate a semi-custom piece of
> hardware to run their amazing software on.
>
> By the way, for VFR flight. The GNS 430 had nothing on my clunky old 195
> other than a color screen.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Working under the panel |
>
> At 6'4", 210 lbs and in the over-40 crowd, it's very difficult for me
> to work under the panel.
I whole heartedly sympathise. Builder's often don't appreciate how often you
will find yourself stretching and twisting like Houdini to perform some type
of inspection, maintenance or upgrade in front of the panel. One RV-6 I saw
had a large access door built into the front top skin which opened via screws
and plate nuts.
When I built my -10, a major consideration will be easy access for inspection
and maintenance and I urge anyone still building to do the same.
Andy
RV-6A N-5060 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Working under the panel |
Would I be correct in assuming you have the sliding canopy? I haven't had a
close look at a finished RV-6/-6A of either flavor, but I am anticipating
much fewer accesibility problems with the tip-up I am building. Am I just
deluding myself?
Jim Bower
RV-6A N143DJ (Wings)
St. Louis, MO
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Working under the panel |
With a tilt up, the area directly in front of the main panel is easy enough to
get to.
The difficulty is accessing the area between the forward panel bulkhead and the
firewall. There's a lot of stuff up there which you can olny access by lying on
your back and contorting around the stick with your feet up in the air. Stuff
like (on my plane) voltage regulator, mode C encoder, back of radio,
transponder, and a couple of other long instruments, battery, solonoids, brakes
and pedals, assorted wiring, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
That's where a removable door in the top skin would be nice.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
Idle adjustment too rich? No more than a 50rpm rise when mixutre pulled to
idle cutoff on shutdown.
Or float level too high in carb?
Or leaking float inlet needle?
Has carb had float and needle/seat AD's done?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rich engine
>
> I did a test flight on brand X this week and everything went smoothly
exept
> for the engine power.
> The engine is the Lycoming H2AD.
> At full power it sounds rough and I can smooth it out and gain up to 150
RPM
> by pulling the mixture back 1/2" .
> We tried capping off the primer lines, no change.
> Remove the air filter, no change.
> No intake leaks, plugs are clean.
> Anything else we should look at before sending the carb out?
>
> Thanks,
> Michel
> RV81117 wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [VAF Mailing List] wingtip lights and strobes |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Vince got me motivated to get going on my lights, so last night I went
to work...
I made it all pretty much like I had it drawn it earlier, except I will
be using some angled washer type things on the front plate to line the
screws up properly... The one in the picture I made, but I know I saw
them someplace and will try to find some as I am sure they will look
much better than the one I made... If anyone has seen these things,
please let me know...
In the pictures the landing light is set back in the tip much farther
than they will be once I'm done... I am thinking I may just put a rubber
hose over the top screw, between the front plate and the light plates,
to hold it all in place but still offer some movement for adjustment,
and use the springs on the bottom "adjusters"... The top will probably
be something like 1/4" from the front plate, or at least as close as I
can get it and still allow it to pivot...
I had already cut holes in the tips for the NAV/Strobes to mount
centered, but now seeing my install, looking at the picture you sent me,
and reading what you said, I know I can angle the ass (strobe) end of
the light up so the landing light will clear it with no problems...
I ended up getting the connectors I needed at a lighting shop here in
town that also stocks the 71 watt and 100 watt bulbs, and since my bulbs
will be in the wing tip, which I am sure can handle more heat that the
lexan cover, I will probably go with the 100 watters...
I have also installed a home grown wig-wag circuit for my lights which
you can see on my web site if your interested...
Check out the pix here: http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wings5.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Frazier, Vincent A [mailto:vfrazier(at)usi.edu]
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] wingtip lights and strobes
For those who are interested, I just added a bunch of stuff to my
website
about the inexpensive strobes/nav and landing lights that I installed in
my
RV-7 wingtips this week. I am pleased with them.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for
%20t
he%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
Vince
F-1H Rocket (just the wingtips are RV-7)
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Errors |
George, There is an article in the December issue of the Experimenter on
"Degaussing"
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Compass Errors
Mounted the compass on the (stainless) roll bar support in my 6-A and
discovered that I have about a 50 degree error in the new SIRS Compass. Lots
of magnetism in the roll bar and other steel parts.
My question - Powder Coating is a electrostatic process, does it leave a
magnetic field?
Any suggestions for getting rid of the magnetism.
Thanks
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
I've noticed C-210's with more than an inch gap in this area, I wonder if
ice is the reason? I always thought it was just sloppy workmanship.
Neil
-7 emp glass
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
> This area is area is also prone to ice accretion, albieit an unlikely
> scenario, but one to consider. The wider gap tolerates more ice buildup
> before jamming.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
>
>
> >
> > I had to file the edges of both my horizontal and vertical stabs to get
> > the 1/4" clearance Van specifies. I know a lot of guys go with less
> > clearance than this, but remember you are eroding your safety margin by
> > doing so. After seeing pictures of that birdstrike on the RV-6A
> > horizontal stab a few weeks ago, and the amount of deformation it
caused,
> > it seems prudent to keep a reasonable gap between the elevators and hor.
> > stab. If a bird strike deforms things enough to jam your elevator, it
> > will almost certainly be fatal. Granted 1/4" may not save your bacon
> > either, but it's a bit more margin than 1/16"....just something to
> > consider.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A waiting for finish kit....
> >
> >
> > From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator clearing HS skin
> >
> >
> > That's one of the things that I'm currently working on...since I saw it
> > mentioned, I thought that I should check mine.....sure enough, I'll have
> > to
> > break out the files too. I can get them to swing through but they're
> > touching...1/16" should do it...I think that 1/4" might be a bit much
> > IMVHO.
> >
> > Thanks for the heads-up...
> > Ralph Capen
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I'm looking for the best route for the wiring to get from the panel to
wing lighting, control sticks, etc. Vans electrical drawing shows down
f602, along horizontal support, down f604, along f604 to center of f604.
In pictures that I see of finished interior shots I don't see any
wiring bundles or conduit anywhere. How are some of you routing/hiding
wiring?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | plug wire shielding |
I am running the plug wires and one set will be the silicone wires Jeff Rose
includes with his system. I seem to recall reading somewhere that only one
end of the plug wire shielding should be grounded. Is this correct? And if it
is which end should be grounded, and where is the best spot to attach the
ground? Or is it some other circuit where the shielding is only grounded on
one end? A bit confused here.
Thanks Guys
Bill Griffin RV 6 [wiring ]Balto. MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Dave,
I've managed to run all my wiring on the underside of the fuse "decks". I
drilled a hole in the top of the F-604 bulkhead and the wires that are
needed in the wing ran down the side of the 604 and fished out under the
seat pans and then off to the wings, sticks, elt, etc..
Hope this help, BTW it's much easier to do this before the decks are riveted
on.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, MSP - Wiring done, engine systems!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dave ford
Subject: RV-List: wiring
I'm looking for the best route for the wiring to get from the panel to
wing lighting, control sticks, etc. Vans electrical drawing shows down
f602, along horizontal support, down f604, along f604 to center of f604.
In pictures that I see of finished interior shots I don't see any
wiring bundles or conduit anywhere. How are some of you routing/hiding
wiring?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: plug wire shielding |
In a message dated 12/14/01 10:25:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, Rv6238(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I am running the plug wires and one set will be the silicone wires Jeff
Rose
includes with his system. I seem to recall reading somewhere that only one
end of the plug wire shielding should be grounded. Is this correct? And if
it
is which end should be grounded, and where is the best spot to attach the
ground? Or is it some other circuit where the shielding is only grounded on
one end? A bit confused here.
Thanks Guys
Bill Griffin RV 6 [wiring ]Balto. MD >>
Bill,
I think you're referring to grounding the shield brade that surrounds the
wire to the on/off switch for your conventional magneto. It should only be
grounded on the Mag side. This isn't relevant for your E.I. or the plug
wires for the E.I..
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I'm looking for the best route for the wiring to get from the panel to
> wing lighting, control sticks, etc. Vans electrical drawing shows down
> f602, along horizontal support, down f604, along f604 to center of f604.
> In pictures that I see of finished interior shots I don't see any
> wiring bundles or conduit anywhere. How are some of you routing/hiding
> wiring?
>
I ran my bundle down the firewall, under the battery mount stuff, back on
the floor to the spar, then up through the 604 bulkhead just above the spar.
Wrapped it well with spiral wrap or the split stuff.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 64 hours (going to change the recalled oil this weekend -
nice)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plug wire shielding |
Kyle,
Thanks for the reply about the mag/switch wire. Still not sure about the
silicone plug wires. I have encased them with a shielding I got from aircraft
spruce. Should I ground this shielding on both ends or just tuck the
shielding under the cap that threads onto the top of the plug?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: plug wire shielding |
In a message dated 12/14/01 11:08:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, Rv6238(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Kyle,
Thanks for the reply about the mag/switch wire. Still not sure about the
silicone plug wires. I have encased them with a shielding I got from
aircraft
spruce. Should I ground this shielding on both ends or just tuck the
shielding under the cap that threads onto the top of the plug? >>
The plug wires for the ElectroAir system don't need to be shielded, so there
is no need to ground anything at either end.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
Hello Listers,
I am having a problem with my Vans manifold pressure gauge and the electric
trim indicator.
When I key the transmitter the Vans manifold pressure gauge loses pressure
using the Narco MK12D and gains pressure with the Garmin GNC250XL. Also the
trim indicator will move from neutral to full nose up when I key the Garmin.
The Narco does not effect it.
I have tried every thing I could think of to isolate this problem, nothing
seems to work. I am hoping someone else has experienced this problem and
came up with a solution.
I have used the Electrical Connection techniques faithfully throughout the
wiring process. Maybe I missed something!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
To the airport when I solve this problem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paul lips <freightdogi(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | temperature to proseal |
I've really been looking forward to this. It is time
to seal the tanks. The temperature of my garage is
between 56 and 65 deg. F. is this acceptable for the
proseal?
Paul Lips
Wings RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | RV 8 tank skin gap followup |
List,
I wanted to update the list to hopefully prevent a problem like I have
run into. You may recall I had a gap between the tank skin and the
leading edge skin. After much 'thought' and head scratching I decided
the way to proceed was to enlarge the holes in the main spar web to
allow lateral movement. I checked with Vans and asked one of the guys
if it would be ok to go oversize, a little. Answer was probably. Then
I ended up having to elongate a little, got rid of the gap. Then while
riveting the nutplates to the spar for the inboard z bracket the gun
slipped and ' dinged' the spar web pretty good. Called Vans, they
wanted pics, sent pics and talked with Ken Krueger (engineer). Dings
were no big deal was able to drill a hole and take care of that.
I decided to discuss with Ken what I had done to fix the gap. Ken was
not happy with oversized holes, let alone elongating holes. Sooooooo, I
have spent a considerable amount of time making doublers for all six
outboard z bracket areas. I am to the point of priming them and will be
able to rivet them tomorrow.
Bottom line, don't enlarge or elongate the holes on the spar web for the
z brackets, problem is the hole should be as specified to transfer loads
to the spar, if elongated you dont get contact all the way around and
will concentrate stress at one point instead. Lesson learned! I'm
still having a blast with this project, just wondering if I will ever
get done and why I'm so slow compared to others.
Hope this helps prevent another from going through this as well.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: temperature to proseal |
yes
----- Original Message -----
From: paul lips <freightdogi(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: temperature to proseal
>
> I've really been looking forward to this. It is time
> to seal the tanks. The temperature of my garage is
> between 56 and 65 deg. F. is this acceptable for the
> proseal?
> Paul Lips
> Wings RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
I'm just installing the MAP transmitter now and notice the directions call
for four-conductor shielded wire from it to the gauge with the shielding as
close to the gauge as possible.
Is it possible that you didn't use shielded wire or overlooked grounding the
shield at the gauge?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I am having a problem with my Vans manifold pressure gauge and the
electric
> trim indicator.
> When I key the transmitter the Vans manifold pressure gauge loses pressure
> using the Narco MK12D and gains pressure with the Garmin GNC250XL. Also
the
> trim indicator will move from neutral to full nose up when I key the
Garmin.
> The Narco does not effect it.
> I have tried every thing I could think of to isolate this problem, nothing
> seems to work. I am hoping someone else has experienced this problem and
> came up with a solution.
> I have used the Electrical Connection techniques faithfully throughout the
> wiring process. Maybe I missed something!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> To the airport when I solve this problem
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
Dave
I Routed mine down behind and under the battery box along the floor
angle back throught the spar and covered it with carpeting.Careful about
going under the battery box as you can cut the wires very easly when
installing the base part. Bill Benedict spent quite some time over the phone
trying to debug my intercom and radio installation bobo.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | temperature to proseal |
The cooler temp will give you more working time, but will also lengthen the
cure time. Expect a week or so for full cure.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul lips
Subject: RV-List: temperature to proseal
I've really been looking forward to this. It is time
to seal the tanks. The temperature of my garage is
between 56 and 65 deg. F. is this acceptable for the
proseal?
Paul Lips
Wings RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | F-688 gusset on Tip-up (6A) |
Dear Listers,
In fitting the 688 gusset to the top of the 606 bulkhead and 687 rib
intersection, it is obvious that there must be a joggle in the top
flange of the 606 to accept the thickness of the 688 (.040) the entire
width of the gusset, or about 6-1/2". There is a joggle about 1-1/2"
wide at the top of the -606 as supplied, with the tooling holes aligned
between the two halves. There is also no provision for the F-687 rib to
accept the 688 where it lays on top of it either, although one message
in the archives mentions adding an .040 shim on top of the rib from the
rear of the gusset to the 607 bulkhead. which should work fine. But
what to do about the FRONT of the 688? I don't believe adding a shim
all the way along the top of the 606 from the 688 down to the main
longeron would be the best answer. Will I have to make a joggle some 7"
wide along this flange to make the 688 flush with the 606??? Can't find
anything in the Will or Frank notes!
What to do, What to do?!?!
Signed,
Perplexed at the PossumWorks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
Cash: I have a set of Van's indicators, I also have a Mark-12D. When I key
the Mark-12 it also makes the MAP to increase, the EI EGT/CHT/OAT indicator
will also change. These indicators are rather close to the right side of
the radio stack. I was planning on running separate grounds to try to fix
this. Any body else find the answer.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV - 40 Hours
> [Original Message]
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Date: 12/14/01 6:33:01 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I am having a problem with my Vans manifold pressure gauge and the
electric
> trim indicator.
> When I key the transmitter the Vans manifold pressure gauge loses
pressure
> using the Narco MK12D and gains pressure with the Garmin GNC250XL. Also
the
> trim indicator will move from neutral to full nose up when I key the
Garmin.
> The Narco does not effect it.
> I have tried every thing I could think of to isolate this problem,
nothing
> seems to work. I am hoping someone else has experienced this problem and
> came up with a solution.
> I have used the Electrical Connection techniques faithfully throughout
the
> wiring process. Maybe I missed something!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> To the airport when I solve this problem
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching Flap Hinge |
Hello-
I have an -8A QB (yes, I know that I took the easy
way-please don't make fun of me) and will be attching
the flaps in the coming week.
I would welcome any input/direction for hinge
attachments. On the left elevator I just alligned the
trailing edge, clamped drilled and riveted, however it
left me with some thoughts that I could have done
better.
1) Any RVator issue discussing options for attaching
hinges- anyone know what issue or year?
2) (a) On the elevator I counter sunk one spar (should
have done both) so that the hinge could seat flush. I
had to dimple the other side of the hinge - it didn't
deform the hing significantly where I could not bend
it back - the trim tab moves freely - is this OK? (b)
Can I dimple the longer hinge on the flap or is it
going to distort it too much? - it looks like in the
QB I don't have much of a choice (have to check)
2) Would this work: (a) mark centerline on hinge make
sure distance between spar (b) drill, debur, can I
countersink the hinge? (c)Dis assemble hinge so that I
can back rivet both sides of the hinge and then place
spline back in hinge?
(3) It appears some people have split the hinge - On
the QB - a complete half hinge is attached to the
flap. I would like to get comments on folks inserting
a complete spline. Anything to look out for. Did you
merely bend the ends to assure the spline stays in?
Has anyone tried drilling a cotter pin in the ends?
(4) How do I assure that the flap is alligned properly
when setting the hinge? Allign with aleron -check
distance of spar? Is there a jig to build?
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: temperature to proseal |
Paul,
The temp in my basement when I did mine was a constant 65 degrees and it
worked fine for me. Once you've completed the tanks, set them aside and
don't worry about them for a few weeks. Come back later and do the testing
to ensure no leaks.
Mike
http://bmnellis.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul lips" <freightdogi(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: temperature to proseal
>
> I've really been looking forward to this. It is time
> to seal the tanks. The temperature of my garage is
> between 56 and 65 deg. F. is this acceptable for the
> proseal?
> Paul Lips
> Wings RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Dick Martin |
Fellow Listers:
Would any of you have Dick Martin's phone number in Green Bay. He is a
flying a RV-8. Please reply off list.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
Harvey,
Thanks for replying. My gauges are in the top center of the panel. The
radio's are just to the right. The gauge has it's own power wire to the fuse
block and ground wire to the ground block. The supplied shielded wire is to
the sender.
Cash Copeland
RV6
In a message dated 12/15/2001 5:51:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
flyhars(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> Cash: I have a set of Van's indicators, I also have a Mark-12D. When I key
> the Mark-12 it also makes the MAP to increase, the EI EGT/CHT/OAT indicator
> will also change. These indicators are rather close to the right side of
> the radio stack. I was planning on running separate grounds to try to fix
> this. Any body else find the answer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
Hi Scott,
The one thing I didn't do was ground the shielding to the gauge. I will try
that and report back.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 12/14/2001 10:51:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca writes:
I'm just installing the MAP transmitter now and notice the directions call
> for four-conductor shielded wire from it to the gauge with the shielding as
> close to the gauge as possible.
> Is it possible that you didn't use shielded wire or overlooked grounding the
> shield at the gauge?
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> To:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Quality Steel Wing Jig |
All,
Even if you have pre-punched everything...jigging the wing is extremely
nice because it holds the wing in a convenient position for all the
operations you still have to do, which is reduced very little by
pre-punching. If you are in the Everett/Seattle area and want a kick
butt jig, email me off list...off list because I currently am not
reading the list. $300 to cover materials or an interesting trade. I
will also give you all the tooling I used to locate my wing. I will
also help you set it up and get your wing in jig. Setup takes about
four hours...so this is a good deal.
The closer to Everett you are the more help you will get in setup and
with other stuff if you want it.
This is much nicer than other "commercial" jigs I have seen where the
asking price is double.
You will need to have a concrete floor to drill in some hold down
fasteners. I have a rotohammer to help you smoke the holes.
See this site:
http://www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg/jigpics.html
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Fuse (N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg
Home: (425)290-7526
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
Jim,
I am using Van's tach and MAP gauge. As posted in another message on this
thread the MAP increases when I xmit on my com in spite of using the
specified shielded wire. This doesn't bother me that much because you don't
spend that much time xmitting. The tach error however bothers me more. I
bought on of those Prop Tach 3s advertised in Tradeaplane that are supposed
to be accurate within one rpm. Here is the result...
tach/actual
800/820
900/941
1,000/1,055
1,100/1,129
1,200/1,224
1,300/1,317
1,400/1,417
1,500/1,517
1,600/1,626
1,700/1,726
1,800/1,817
1,900/1,926
2,300/2,368
2.400/2,464
2,500/2,545
2,600/2,624
2,700/2,714
I have put this table in my POH, and in daily flying I just use a 50 rpm
lower figure on the tach to get close to actual. For example if I want to
cruise at 2400 I have it indicate 2350 etc.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
> Hmmm. This thread is the second one I've seen recently concerning Van's
> gauges. That concerns me because I'd probably try his gauges next time.
I
> have a panel of gauges in my -6A; so, I want good quality ones. I guess
> I'd better buy the ones like I already have if I build another RV. I
don't
> know if I can trust the quality of Van's gauges. Anyone want to clarify?
> Is anyone using them with no trouble. My buddy, Pat, seems to think there
> may be ground looping, or something like that. Could be. I know I'm not
> having any problems with the electrical stuff and grounded everything back
> at one point.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
I used the 4 conducter shielded wire and it still increases the MP reading
when I xmit.
Randy Lervold
> Hi Scott,
> The one thing I didn't do was ground the shielding to the gauge. I will
try
> that and report back.
> Cash Copeland
>
> In a message dated 12/14/2001 10:51:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca writes:
>
> I'm just installing the MAP transmitter now and notice the directions
call
> > for four-conductor shielded wire from it to the gauge with the shielding
as
> > close to the gauge as possible.
> > Is it possible that you didn't use shielded wire or overlooked grounding
the
> > shield at the gauge?
> > Scott in Vancouver
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> > To:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
For time try
www.nist.time.gov/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus - answers |
> cheapie ceramic bathroom type heater from Walmart. The
> heater output is roughly 6" square. I then used a similarly sized piece
of
> flexible ducting that I bent into an "S" shape. I smashed the end of it
so
> that it fits nicely into the cowl exit scoop between the exhaust pipes.
The
> other end rests on the floor and the heater fits somewhat snugly into the
> input end of the duct.
Folks, here's one to watch for fires. Cheap electric space heaters are only
safe if they are cooled by air going through them. They are not designed to
pump air into an enclosed space nor used with ducts. Most cheap space
heaters do have some plastic parts in them and they will run hotter if run
into a duct, even hotter if the duct goes into a sealed engine compartment.
If you want to try this to pre-heat your engine,
1 - do not leave the hanger unattended
2 - do not plug the cowl outlets
3 - open the oil door to help air flow through the heater
4 - when you are done be aware that the heater could be overheated so don't
put it away. Leave the thing out sitting by itself on the hanger floor. If
it wants to smolder a bit it won't do any harm.
Norman Hunger
Canadian and somewhat familiar with space heaters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
A quick question to the list:
The RV8 plans call for F-8105 brake hoses from the brake master cylinders,
but I cannot find them in my kit, nor can I see them in the itemized list of
parts.
The plans and the instruction set do not say that they are not included,
which is the case with other not-included items. Before I spend the $120
for two hoses from Vans, please will somebody let me know if they should be
in the kit.
Also, $120 for two hoses is a bit high. Are they any different from
automotive flexible brake hoses?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Errors |
You need to Degauss it. Check it with a flux meter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Compass Errors
>
>
> Mounted the compass on the (stainless) roll bar support in my 6-A and
> discovered that I have about a 50 degree error in the new SIRS Compass.
Lots
> of magnetism in the roll bar and other steel parts.
>
> My question - Powder Coating is a electrostatic process, does it leave a
> magnetic field?
>
> Any suggestions for getting rid of the magnetism.
>
> Thanks
>
> George McNutt
> Langley, B.C.
> 6-A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
Mine came in the finish kit (-8QB)
James Freeman
On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 12:50 PM, Gordon Robertson wrote:
>
> The RV8 plans call for F-8105 brake hoses from the brake master cylinders,
> but I cannot find them in my kit,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
It's probably radio frequency energy from the antenna being picked up
directly by the senders. There are other possibilities such as a bad cable
to the antenna. Replace the antenna with an "RF Load" available at most
avionics shops or radio amateurs to prove the direct antenna source. Moving
the antenna could solve problem.
The other solution might be to do nothing. Just use the changes in the
meter readings to reassure yourself that the radios are working fine! I
could tell you a story about a similar problem and the do nothing solution
in the CF-105 Starfighter, but it's too long.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
Subject: RV-List: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference
> I am having a problem with my Vans manifold pressure gauge and the
electric
> trim indicator.
> When I key the transmitter the Vans manifold pressure gauge loses pressure
> using the Narco MK12D and gains pressure with the Garmin GNC250XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
behind the firewall.
I'm getting close to this point, so I may do this unless someone has a
good reason not to.
Jeff Point
RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
Milwaukee, WI
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
>With a tilt up, the area directly in front of the main panel is easy enough to
>get to.
>
>The difficulty is accessing the area between the forward panel bulkhead and the
>firewall. There's a lot of stuff up there which you can olny access by lying
on
>your back and contorting around the stick with your feet up in the air. Stuff
>like (on my plane) voltage regulator, mode C encoder, back of radio,
>transponder, and a couple of other long instruments, battery, solonoids, brakes
>and pedals, assorted wiring, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
>
>That's where a removable door in the top skin would be nice.
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
In a message dated 12/15/01 4:41:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
behind the firewall.
I'm getting close to this point, so I may do this unless someone has a
good reason not to.
Jeff Point
RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
Milwaukee, WI
>>
Van recommends against it, but this is a standard installation on RV-4's. I
recommend that you use #8 screws if you're going to do this. #6 screws break
too easily.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-688 gusset on Tip-up (6A) |
Mark,
You don't need to joggle. Just take care where you drill the fuselage skin
to the F606 and F687. On the left, right, and rear of the F688, there will
be a small gap once the skin is on. Make sure you drill the skin in areas
where it is in contact with the F606 and F687. If you drill too close to
the F688, just place a small shim between the skin and the F606 or F687.
This little gap around the F688 is very small.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 tipup
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-688 gusset on Tip-up (6A)
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> In fitting the 688 gusset to the top of the 606 bulkhead and 687 rib
> intersection, it is obvious that there must be a joggle in the top
> flange of the 606 to accept the thickness of the 688 (.040) the entire
> width of the gusset, or about 6-1/2". There is a joggle about 1-1/2"
> wide at the top of the -606 as supplied, with the tooling holes aligned
> between the two halves. There is also no provision for the F-687 rib to
> accept the 688 where it lays on top of it either, although one message
> in the archives mentions adding an .040 shim on top of the rib from the
> rear of the gusset to the 607 bulkhead. which should work fine. But
> what to do about the FRONT of the 688? I don't believe adding a shim
> all the way along the top of the 606 from the 688 down to the main
> longeron would be the best answer. Will I have to make a joggle some 7"
> wide along this flange to make the 688 flush with the 606??? Can't find
> anything in the Will or Frank notes!
> What to do, What to do?!?!
>
> Signed,
> Perplexed at the PossumWorks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | RF problems in meters |
A quick way to eliminate such RF pick up and meter problems is to bypass the
meter to RF energy...in many, if not most, cases that will eliminate the
problem. Go to Radio Shack and buy a .001 micro farad capacitor, of any
voltage rating over, say, 20 volts or so, and connect the two leads across
the meter terminals...no polarity to worry about...get ceramic, mica, or
other capacitors...not electrolytic however...give it a try, won't cost but
a few cents and will very likely solve the problem
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
I sent an email off to Ken Krueger at Van's asking about this, will post
the reply when it comes.
Jeff Point
>Van recommends against it, but this is a standard installation on RV-4's. I
>recommend that you use #8 screws if you're going to do this. #6 screws break
>too easily.
>
>Kyle Boatright
>0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
>Kennesaw, GA
>http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Riveting the Trim Tab |
Ok I've got the spare riveted in by back riveting. Now I've got the
hinge drilled and ready to rivet. How do I rivet it? Should I rivet it
to Horizonal stabalizer with my hand squeezer and then try to buck it on
the Trim tab?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel flow rate measurement error |
I have about 240 hours on my 6A with the flowscan 201 flowmeter reading
on an EIS. System has been very good until today. On a local flight it
started reading 4-5 times higher than actual flow. Thought I might have
a large leak (like hose off downstream of flowmeter). After landing
every thing seemed in order under the cowling.
Anyone with similiar experience. Nothing in archives.
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
6 Builders,
How are people attaching the crotch strap to the Fuse. structure. Nothing in
the plans about this.
Bill, RV-8 N48WD
Helping a friend finish his RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crotch Strap |
> 6 Builders,
>
> How are people attaching the crotch strap to the Fuse. structure. Nothing
in
> the plans about this.
>
> Bill, RV-8 N48WD
> Helping a friend finish his RV-6
This depends on your seat belt. I have Hooker Harnesses that end in a piece
of metal that accepts a bolt. I just sandwiched this between two pieces of
angle between the ribs.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I have Hooker Harnesses for my 6A. The lap belt ends have a short piece of
tubing inside the hole that rotates around the hole. This tubing is way
wider than the metal and wider than the two pieces of metal that I am
supposed to bolt them to. Do I drill the seat belt holders that are
attached to the spar to accept this whole assembly so the end will fit
between them or take the short sections out of the seat belt? The ends of
the belts that attached the shoulder harness and the crotch strap do not
have this short piece of rotating tubing in them.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Ends |
I just bolted it to one side of the seat belt attach bracket. That piece of
tubing allows it to rotate around the AN-4 bolt that you attach it with.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Ends
>
> I have Hooker Harnesses for my 6A. The lap belt ends have a short piece
of
> tubing inside the hole that rotates around the hole. This tubing is way
> wider than the metal and wider than the two pieces of metal that I am
> supposed to bolt them to. Do I drill the seat belt holders that are
> attached to the spar to accept this whole assembly so the end will fit
> between them or take the short sections out of the seat belt? The ends of
> the belts that attached the shoulder harness and the crotch strap do not
> have this short piece of rotating tubing in them.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
How about just an access panel within the inside perimeter of the rivet
lines. You could make a rectangular hole a few inches inside from the edge,
put some nutplates in and put an oversised piece over the hole and screw it
in place. This way you are not compromising the structural integrity of the
rivets along the longerons, firewall, and sub panel.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel
>
> Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
> instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
> strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
> lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
> behind the firewall.
>
> I'm getting close to this point, so I may do this unless someone has a
> good reason not to.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
> Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
> >
> >With a tilt up, the area directly in front of the main panel is easy
enough to
> >get to.
> >
> >The difficulty is accessing the area between the forward panel bulkhead
and the
> >firewall. There's a lot of stuff up there which you can olny access by
lying on
> >your back and contorting around the stick with your feet up in the air.
Stuff
> >like (on my plane) voltage regulator, mode C encoder, back of radio,
> >transponder, and a couple of other long instruments, battery, solonoids,
brakes
> >and pedals, assorted wiring, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
> >
> >That's where a removable door in the top skin would be nice.
> >
> >Andy
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: [c-a] Re: Yaesu handheld -- Caveat Emptor] |
The group might be interested in the following exchange between a ez pilot and
officials representing the Yaesu handheld receiver regarding its poor vor
performance. If all is as represented, I would think twice before purchasing
this unit.
Bruce McElhoe wrote:
> Here it my response to an e-mail sent by a VP of Vertex Standard regarding
> the Yaesu handheld I am dissatisfied with. This is the second round of
> letter exchanges.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vertex Standard" <vertexstandard(at)vxstdusa.com>
> To: "Folis Jones"
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:08 PM
> Subject: RE: VXA-100
>
> Dear Mr. Henderson,
>
> A copy of your letter to Folis Jones was sent to me, and I would like to
> respond to it as follows.
>
> You wrote:
> > Answering e-mails and trying to solve technical questions is not easy.
> > Especially when you don't have the product in front of you or experience
> > the same conditions.
>
> I certainly understand that it would be difficult to evaluate my receiver
> without having it in hand. As I explained in my first letter to Vertex
> Standard, I contacted your service department and was told that useless
> readings were characteristic of the VXA-100, and that they did not have a
> signal generator necessary for testing my receiver. I was told not to send
> the receiver to them.
>
> You wrote:
> > "VOR NAV in any handheld aviation radio cannot be relied upon for
> > instrument-grade navigation purposes. Vertex Standard disclaims
> > responsibility for instrument-grade accuracy by the following statement
> > which is printed in every Operating Manual: "The VXA-100's (VXA-200's)
> > VOR and CDI Navigation features are supplemental aids to navigation
> only, and
> > are not intended to be a substitute for accurate primary VOR/CDI or
> > landing service equipment."
> > >
>
> Perhaps my first letter was not sufficiently clear. I stated that, "...the
> heading information (including the CDI indicator) is erratic and unuseable."
> I really meant unuseable. The numbers roll by so fast that they make no
> sense at all. The CDI indicator dances back and forth in a random manner.
> This provides no "supplemental" aid to navigation whatsoever.
>
> You wrote:
> > There are many factors that can contribute to inaccurate or erratic VOR
> > readings in a handheld:
> > - the use of a "rubber-duck" type antenna inside the cockpit (delivers
> > much less signal than an outside antenna)
>
> Some of my tests were about ten miles from the station in direct line of
> sight. I would expect your small antenna to be adequate at such a close
> distance.
>
> You wrote:
> > - radio signal reflections from metal skin or metal frame pieces within
> > the aircraft.
>
> As I explained in my letter to Vertex Standard, I was in a fiberglass
> airplane.
>
> You wrote:
> > - rapid fading and fluctuation of radio signals as the aircraft moves
> though the air with respect to the VOR station.
> > - movement and orientation of the radio within the cockpit.
>
> The identifier was loud and strong with no indication of fading.
> Fluctuation of the demodulated bearing signal is perhaps a source of the
> problem. This is unacceptable performance in my opinion.
>
> You wrote:
> > Connection to a good quality NAV band antenna that is properly installed
> on
> > the aircraft's exterior MAY improve your handheld's VOR performance.
>
> I agree. However, my complaint is that the performance is unacceptable in
> the receiver I purchased.
>
> You wrote:
> > However, it is still not reasonable to expect the same level of
> > performance
> > and stability as you receive from your panel-mount VOR instrument.
> > The VOR/CDI functions in any handheld aviation radio (Yaesu and other
> > brands) are intended to give you a general indication of your position
> > only.
> > This would be helpful to find your general location/bearings during an
> > emergency "instruments-out" situation.
>
> I agree. I am not comparing your receiver to my panel mount. I am telling
> you that your display is unreadable. It does not come close to giving me a
> "general indication" of my position only. It is not at all "helpful to find
> your general location/bearings during an emergency "instruments-out"
> situation."
>
> You wrote:
> > Mr. Jones, All of this got started because a technical engineer would not
> accept a
> > "trade in" on a radio we did not sell. Vertex Standard sells to
> > "Authorized Dealers" ONLY.
>
> As I explained in a recent e-mail to you, I feel it is proper for me to
> take this design problem to you and not to one of your distributors. Yaesu
> has stuck me with an inadequate product. It would be equally reprehensible
> for me to
> stick one of your distributors with such a useless device.
>
> You wrote:
> > Now that's the rest of the story. There still is no clear answer to the
> > problem because the conditions that the radio is being used in. So if the
> > "Group" wants to throw stones there is nothing I can do.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Scott Henderson
> > Vertex Standard >>
> >
>
> Mr. Henderson, there is something you can do. I suggest you investigate
> this problem yourself, and decide if Yaesu's reputation is worth all this
> stonewalling. Take a VXA-100 up in a lightplane yourself. See if you are
> selling an honest product, or if you are being duped by the company's party
> line.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bruce McElhoe Long-EZ N64MC
> Reedley, California
>
> Win a Capcom Console Game.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/smpz8B/fxbDAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> canard-aviators-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Errors |
Check the archives. Leo Davies wrote of his experience in using a Growler
commonly used to test motor armatures to degauss the canopy bow/arch and other
parts. These have sufficient 'grunt' to do the job whereas the smaller TV and
tape recorder head units will not cut it.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed destroys engine? |
Were these people messing with the spark advance? That could destroy the
engine but it really wouldn't be Lightspeeds fault would it!
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans MP Gauge/Radio Interference |
I have a TKM radio that does the same think to my E.I. Ultimate analyzer.
When I key the mike it wigs out the digital displays and turns on the red
warning lights on the E.I. unit. As soon as I release the mike it goes back
to normal. I have been meaning to ask E.I. about it, but it doesn't seem to
hurt anything and I haven't really worried enough about it get around to it.
If anyone has a fix I'd sure be interested.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Cash: I have a set of Van's indicators, I also have a Mark-12D. When I
key
> the Mark-12 it also makes the MAP to increase, the EI EGT/CHT/OAT
indicator
> will also change. These indicators are rather close to the right side of
> the radio stack. I was planning on running separate grounds to try to fix
> this. Any body else find the answer.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV - 40 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic gurus - answers |
One should certainly be careful with any heater, and I certainly wouldn't
recommend leaving the hangar with this or *any* other heater running, but
I'm not too concerned about doing this. The cowl is hardly a sealed space -
the moderate volume of air can easily escape the confines of the cowl,
especially since the duct goes into the space between the exhaust pipes, and
the space on the outside the exhaust pipes is at least as large in volume,
so the air can flow out easily. Also, the duct is slight larger than the
diameter of the fan, and poses no restriction to air flow.
I also agree that it's a good idea to let the heater and duct cool off on an
open patch of concrete floor.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Folks, here's one to watch for fires. Cheap electric space heaters are
only
> safe if they are cooled by air going through them. They are not designed
to
> pump air into an enclosed space nor used with ducts. Most cheap space
> heaters do have some plastic parts in them and they will run hotter if run
> into a duct, even hotter if the duct goes into a sealed engine
compartment.
>
> If you want to try this to pre-heat your engine,
> 1 - do not leave the hanger unattended
> 2 - do not plug the cowl outlets
> 3 - open the oil door to help air flow through the heater
> 4 - when you are done be aware that the heater could be overheated so
don't
> put it away. Leave the thing out sitting by itself on the hanger floor. If
> it wants to smolder a bit it won't do any harm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... |
> The Russians use a towl
What's a "towl"? Is it a Russian version of a "towel"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the Trim Tab |
If you have a copy of 18 Years of the RVator, bottom of page 41 shows
how to secure the pin with a screw and nutplate. If you don't have the
book, I advise you get it, but in the meantime I can scan it and send it
to you if you need.
Jeff Point
>
>Is it hard to get the pin back in? What should be done to insure that it does
>not work it's way back out. Is this how everyone has done it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk3(at)attbi.com`> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
Does anyone have any pictures of such an access panel installation?
If so, I would like to take a look. Seems like it would save some headaches
later when trying to work behind the panel.
Doug Shenk, RV-6Aqb.
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> How about just an access panel within the inside perimeter of the rivet
> lines. You could make a rectangular hole a few inches inside from the edge,
> put some nutplates in and put an oversised piece over the hole and screw it
> in place. This way you are not compromising the structural integrity of the
> rivets along the longerons, firewall, and sub panel.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel
>
> >
> > Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
> > instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
> > strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
> > lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
> > behind the firewall.
> >
> > I'm getting close to this point, so I may do this unless someone has a
> > good reason not to.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
> > Milwaukee, WI
> >
> >
> > Builder's Bookstore wrote:
> >
>
> > >
> > >With a tilt up, the area directly in front of the main panel is easy
> enough to
> > >get to.
> > >
> > >The difficulty is accessing the area between the forward panel bulkhead
> and the
> > >firewall. There's a lot of stuff up there which you can olny access by
> lying on
> > >your back and contorting around the stick with your feet up in the air.
> Stuff
> > >like (on my plane) voltage regulator, mode C encoder, back of radio,
> > >transponder, and a couple of other long instruments, battery, solonoids,
> brakes
> > >and pedals, assorted wiring, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
> > >
> > >That's where a removable door in the top skin would be nice.
> > >
> > >Andy
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Removable top skin, was Working under the panel |
There was a time... years ago... that the "hip" thing to do was make the
panel on a hinge, so that it could swing down giving access to the back
side.
I saw a panel like this and it seemed to work ok. It was in three sections
(RV-6), one big center one, and two smaller side ones. Apparently the group
that helped build the Nigerian Air Force gaggle of 6A's developed this
system. It was a personal plane of one of these guys who had this set up
that I saw.
I have made my panel into 4 removable sub panels. They are not hinged, but
simply are held in with screws around the perimeter.
Jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
The first job I had after getting out of the RCAF after WW ll. was
instructing and flying charter with a small flying school and charter
operation at Calgary, Alberta. They had taken delivery of two of the
first Aeronca Champs produced after the war, for those not familiar with
them they are a two place high wing tandem taildragger, rag and tube
construction with dual controls, heel brakes and in those days equipped
with a 65 HP Continental and later a 85 HP turning a wood prop. They
had no electrical system, no starter and the instruments consisted of a
tachometer, airspeed indicator ,venturi tube T&B and a compass.
The instructor sat in the back so had very little forward visibility.
The first thing we did with a new student was completely familiarize
them with the starting procedure, parked into wind, full up
elevator,throttle setting, priming (they were equipped with a plunge
type primer) holding the brakes and handling the mags. The student sat
in the front seat and followed the instructions as called out by the
instructor who did the swing. Started on the left mag (retarded) only
and throttle set just above idle, doing this several times a day you got
to know just how much prime was required and it usually would start on
the first swing, student would come back to idle so you could get the
door open wide enough to hop in. The early models had no parking brake
and the heal brakes didn't supply much drag so one had to be real
careful with the throttle. Using chocks is not really an option since
you have to dig them out with the engine running.
That first year I sat in the back seat for 1120 hours and had about 1400
starts with no real starting thrills until one day a rather impatient
fellow that we had sold a Champ to decided to start and leave on his
own. He was parked about a hundred yards away in front of our hangar. He
propped it with the throttle well advanced and of course no brakes, he
just had time to jump out of the way and grab the struts as it went by,
this started a wide circling maneuver on the ramp. I ran out to see what
was going on and here is this guy hanging to the strut with his heals
dug in on the asphalt and the champ is gradually picking up speed, I
don,t know what came first either he ran out of wind or his heels wore
down to his socks but he had to let go and the Champ straightened out
and headed right at the hangar doors. Fortunately they were closed and
were about four inches thick, the hangar was full of aircraft. The champ
just got airborne as it hit the hanger door, from the inside you could
see the crankshaft sticking through. Needless to say it didn't do the
Champ any good.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Perfect Fuel Tank Alignment |
I just finished my left wing fuel tank (not sealed yet) and the aligment
with the leading edge is perfect. The problem with Van's instructions is
they tell you to drill 1/8" holes and #12 holes in the fuel tank attachment
brackets which will decide your alignment before you even get the tank on
the spar. Here is what I did:
1.) Drilled 1/8" hole in exact centre on one side of attachment bracket.
Make 6 of these. No #12 holes! Cleco brackets in place and drill remaining 4
holes ensuring it is centred.
2.) Put fuel tank skin in wooden cradle and cleco ribs in on one side only.
3.) Put baffle in place. With attachment brackets removed.
4.) Lift up free side of fuel tank skin and cleco ribs and attachment
brackets to the baffle.
5.) Cleco second side of ribs to fuel tank skin
6.) Place in wing spar and put cleco and clamps in place to hold alignment
with screw holes.
7.) Ensure zero gap between leading edge and fuel tank.
8.) Drilled fuel tank to W423
9.) Drilled attachment brackets with #12 from below using spar as a guide.
This worked great for me.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Elevator trim speed |
I do remember a discussion on this.
Here is a link to the Herga pressure switch.
http://www.herga.com/pressure/products/6753.htm
you would choose the switch with no bleed operating at a pressure of 8 in
WG.
I calculate that this equates to 120 mph IAS pitot pressure (somebody check
this).
The switch is SPNO so you would need a relay to switch between direct and
reduced input to the trim servo.
Piers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Removable top skin, was Working under the panel |
I installed four openings in that area large enough to put both of my hands
into. I cut them with a Dremel tool after the top skin was clecoed in place.
I closed the holes with #8 counter-sunk screws and Tinnerman washers into
platenuts. The washers were needed because the thicker skin would not lie
down in a curve without a little force and the washers helped to spread the
load.
I think it would be great to make the whole skin removable, but I don't
think that you would be able to get the skin to lie flat as it curves down
to the longeron on each side.
I got my idea from Fred Stucklen's RV-6. If it wasn't Fred's then it was
another that I saw at the Chapter 486 fly in several years ago. As I recall
the story, the owner of this machine had to cut holes in the skin as part of
surgery to remove a radio, or something, that just couldn't be reached from
under the panel.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV
-----Original Message-----
Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
behind the firewall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
I have a removable windshield and toyed with the idea of using plate nuts
instead of rivets for the front fuselage cover. I could not think of any
other way to do this without jeopardizing the structural integrity which
would also mean putting nuts into the longerorns. Even after doing all this
I'm not sure if the plane wouldn't become a convertible in rough turbulence.
Maybe Van will eventually give this some thought. Meanwhile I don't have the
vertical brace and lowered the fuel selector, which was quite helpful. Even
with all this I still experience great humility working under panel.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator clearing HS skin |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
12/16/2001 08:15:12 AM
I was thinking we were talking about the gap between either the HS or VS
and the counterbalance arm ..... the long gap than runs parallel to the
longitudinal line of the airplane. Maybe we are talking a about the
shorter gap as discussed in a previous note. I looked at a Cessna 172
yesterday. The gap on the left elevator was 1/8 inch and was 1/4 inch on
the right. Production airplanes don't have high standards, do they?! The
gap on the Rudder was not parallel but was about 1/8 inch at its narrowist
point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
The builder of my 6-A put 4 panels across the top skin in front of the
windshield that are hekd on with screws and nutplates.Not knowing where he
installed everything these have been very helpful acouple of times.Would
have been almost impossible to replace battery in micro-vision computor
without the panels.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Pflanzer" <rpflanze2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
A lesson that I've learned along the way is that if you really want to do
something, no one will stop you.........and that's the problem. Sometimes,
someone should stop me.
On previous airplanes, I've spend days or months coming up with a neat
design change that I thought was slick, would save time, etc. Sometimes, it
was. But most of the time, if I had to do it over again, I wouldn't do it
because in the end, the pain wasn't worth the gain. I usually overestimated
the value of the change. It's amazing how some of the changes that I
thought were important while building, turned to insignificance when flying.
Now, I'm not saying that you can't or shouldn't put a removeable panel on
the top skin. If you want to, go right ahead and do it. It can be done,
has been done, and will be done again. But consider the complexity, time,
and value you would gain from it. I would be concerned about water leakage
and strength although I'm sure they can be solved. With a little careful
planning under the panel, everything is easily reachable by laying on your
back. And for the few times I've had to get under there, a removable panel
wouldn't really be worth it to me. And I'm not a small (or flexible)
person. Plus, I hate to burn all the time needed to solve all these
problems.
I've found that these projects provide me with more than enough details to
work through without me creating more for myself. And it just takes me
longer to get in the air. Of course, the counter to this is that real
innovation comes from experimentation so sometimes, it is important to
challenge the convention.
Bottom line, take a good long hard look at the modification and really
convince yourself that it's worth it before doing it. Take heart in the
fact that you'll only make the right decision about 20% of the time.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (sold)
RV-7 (Empennage)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel
>
> Anybody ever try attaching the top skin with screws and platenuts
> instead of rivets? Seems to me you should be able to duplicate the
> strength of the rivets with #6 screws every 2 inches or so. That's a
> lot of screws to remove, but it sure would be nice to get it off to work
> behind the firewall.
>
> I'm getting close to this point, so I may do this unless someone has a
> good reason not to.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
> Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
> >
> >With a tilt up, the area directly in front of the main panel is easy
enough to
> >get to.
> >
> >The difficulty is accessing the area between the forward panel bulkhead
and the
> >firewall. There's a lot of stuff up there which you can olny access by
lying on
> >your back and contorting around the stick with your feet up in the air.
Stuff
> >like (on my plane) voltage regulator, mode C encoder, back of radio,
> >transponder, and a couple of other long instruments, battery, solonoids,
brakes
> >and pedals, assorted wiring, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
> >
> >That's where a removable door in the top skin would be nice.
> >
> >Andy
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel |
List, I put plate nuts on my instrument panel ( Eight # 8 Countersunk)
which I can remove to slide the panel back for service if needed.
Not flying yet (Wiring) but have seen this done before by a builder
I met at "Sun-N-Fun" last year.
Tom, In Ohio (RV6-A)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Planejoel(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel
>
> I have a removable windshield and toyed with the idea of using plate nuts
> instead of rivets for the front fuselage cover. I could not think of any
> other way to do this without jeopardizing the structural integrity which
> would also mean putting nuts into the longerorns. Even after doing all
this
> I'm not sure if the plane wouldn't become a convertible in rough
turbulence.
> Maybe Van will eventually give this some thought. Meanwhile I don't have
the
> vertical brace and lowered the fuel selector, which was quite helpful.
Even
> with all this I still experience great humility working under panel.
>
>
> Joe
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Ends |
I believe there is a discussing of this in the Archives. The brackets are
spaced 1/8" apart and the tubing is 3/16", maybe 1/4". Seems to me others
noted this and just filed the tubing shorter to fit the available gap.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat Belt Ends
>
> I just bolted it to one side of the seat belt attach bracket. That piece
of
> tubing allows it to rotate around the AN-4 bolt that you attach it with.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Ends
>
>
> >
> > I have Hooker Harnesses for my 6A. The lap belt ends have a short piece
> of
> > tubing inside the hole that rotates around the hole. This tubing is way
> > wider than the metal and wider than the two pieces of metal that I am
> > supposed to bolt them to. Do I drill the seat belt holders that are
> > attached to the spar to accept this whole assembly so the end will fit
> > between them or take the short sections out of the seat belt? The ends
of
> > the belts that attached the shoulder harness and the crotch strap do not
> > have this short piece of rotating tubing in them.
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crotch Strap |
December 08, 2001 - December 16, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lz