RV-Archive.digest.vol-mc
January 02, 2002 - January 08, 2002
I recall someone posting that they rented a hole punch from one of the
aircraft tool suppliers (Avery, Clevelend, etc). You might check with a few
places.
Dave Berryhill
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | High Compression Pistons |
Does anyone knoe the correct phone number for Piston Power. The yeller
pages list it as 970-472-5057 but that is not a correct number. They are
located in Colo. Any engine gurus or Colo builders help me out. I need
some high compression pistons, are there any other sources besides Lycon
in Calif.
John Henley, RV7 Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Don,
I find that the biggest problem with the RV4 canopy in the
winter is that is Shrinks alot lengthwise. The canopy is
fit when it is warm and then cold weather (below 30 F)
causes the normally tight fitting rear portion to lift up at
least 1/8th on an inch. I use a bulb type seal additionally
around the rear section in the winter fit while it is cold.
I have flown in the teens and it is better now.
Stewart RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Compression Pistons |
You might try Superior. I got mine from them
and EAA chapters get a discount.
Stewart RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
I have the same problem but not as drastic. My manifold pressure started to
lag a bit so I disconnected it and blew a few drops of oil out and it worked
OK again. I had the same problem a year ago and A/P said drill a very small
hole(I forget the size) at the low point. I didn't have a bit that small so I
drilled it slightly bigger. Then it didn't work at all so I soldered the hole
back up. (I'm taking the pressure off one of the cylinders.)
Joe
RV6A 0360/CP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
Not really in the Midwest, but I just got a quote for a white/2 stripe/3
color paint job for $4200. That includes the body work on the fiberglass
that I have yet to do. Alot of the plastic airplane fellas out here
recommend him. If they can look good, then an RV should be no problem.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: The Paint Job
>
> I am trying to get a feel for costs associated with the paint job. What
are
> painters out there charging for a middle of the road paint job?
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for a painter in the Midwest?
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RV flying stories |
In a message dated 1/2/2002 12:16:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6tc(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Eric,
>
> You forgot to mention who is going to be whose "daisy".
>
> Keith
> -6, slow build, Marhyde, with a manly tailwheel
>
>
ALL RIGHT! all you taildraggers to the back of the bus.
DNA
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Lead Time |
In a message dated 1/2/2002 2:23:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
stein(at)steinair.com writes:
> This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems.
> What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
>
>
>
A bunch of us in SO. CAL are using the RMI system, We like them.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
I looked at both of these when I was getting ready to buy... I ended up
getting the EIS but am not flying yet so all I can say is it was a piece
of cake to install, it is very small and light, easy to read, and the
support is first class... The company has an incredible
guarantee/warranty:
1-year trial period. If you don't like it for any reason, we will refund
you money any time in the first year after purchase.
2-year warranty for parts and labor for instrument and all probes and
accessories.
Lifetime warranty for manufacturing defects.
I know nothing about the IK2000TM unit and am not trying to take
anything away from it's quality or capability. I am sure it is an
excellent unit...
This is simply a feature/price comparison...
IK2000TM FLIGHT & ENGINE MONITORING SYSTEM
Indicated Airspeed
Altitude & Altitude Variation
RPM
Manifold Pressure
Voltage
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Flow (gph)
Fuel - % Remaining
Cylinder Head Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
4-Cylinder System: $1999
SENSORS
Oil Temperature: $29
Oil Pressure: $49
Fuel Pressure: $49
Type-J CHT Thermocouples $156
Type-K EGT Thermocouples $236
Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179
Total $2697
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
EIS 4000P Engine Monitoring System
4 Exhaust Gas Temperatures
4 Cylinder Head Temperatures
Tachometer
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Outside Air Temperature
Voltmeter - ammeter coming soon
Carburetor Temperature
Hour meter
Flight Timer with Interval Timer
Fuel flow rate
Fuel remaining
Time until empty
Pre-wired Harness
4 Auxiliary Inputs user configurable can provide:
Manifold Pressure (normally aspirated or turbo)
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Level (using capacitive or float-type sending units)
Coolant Pressure
Rotor-RPM
Advanced EIS Model-4000 package $995
SENSORS (not included in package)
Upgrade to Bayonet Style CHT probes $96
Fuel Pressure $35
Fuel Level - make your own capacitance senders
Outside Air Temperature $20
Carb Air Temperature $28
MAP $60
OTHER OPTIONS
Fuel Flow w/Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor $375
Airspeed/Altimeter/VSI Option $149
Total $1758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
The weight savings in the wiring of the average light aircraft by going to 24 Volts
would be at best
minimal. Firstly there is relatively little wire in the average light plane and
most of it is of
fairly small gauge anyway. You don't want to carry gauge reduction to the extreme
based solely on
currents as you would end up running wires possibly as small as 30 gauge or less
which just would
not have enough physical strength to stand up to any kind of trauma. You want
your wiring robust
enough to handle the occasional tug or pull while you are rooting around under
the panel and to be
physically large enough to give you confidence when making connections etc. It's
very difficult to
handle and reliably make connections to wires almost too small to see. Therefore
most of the wires
would not be reduced in size simply to keep them physically large enough to be
convenient. Lesser
current flow is a non issue from a safety point of view as in any fault the over
current protection
is going to protect the circuits (wires) in any properly designed system. In fact
the greater
voltage provides the potential for greater fault currents should there be a short.
The advantage of using 12 Volts is the greater availability of mundane things like
a boost when you
accidentally leave the master on. (any nearby car will serve) The greater and affordable
availability of batteries, chargers and the like. The ability to use readily available
automotive
parts (read inexpensive) such as starter relays, accessory relays, light bulbs,
alternators,
regulators, power window motors for flaps, convertible top pumps for canopies etc.
etc. The price
difference in radios etc. may not be great but I understand that 12 Volt versions
tend to be more
readily available especially on the experienced (second hand) market.
Bob McC
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> Have you priced a 24 volt battery? a 24 volt charger?
>
>
> I have been wondering why RV builders, and homebuilders in general, most
> often seem to use 12 /14
> volt systems?
> 24/28 volt systems do offer the advantage of lower current, and therefore
> lighter wire runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
Hi Paul:
Friend if mine hand his ercoupe stripped and repainted recently and I
believe he paid around $4500 for it. Not sure of the exact amount. Turned
out REALLY nice. Guy has been at it for awhile. He is based at the
Watertown WI airport. I can get his name and particulars for you if you
wish. Once I have a gaggle of aluminum parts flying in formation, I plan to
pay him a visit.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: The Paint Job
>
> I am trying to get a feel for costs associated with the paint job. What
are
> painters out there charging for a middle of the road paint job?
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for a painter in the Midwest?
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
This works very well. Anytime you are flying you should wear clothing that will
allow you to survive
should the unthinkable happen and the additional warmth provided by heated clothing
makes for a very
nice toasty trip. Here in Canada where it gets COLD, sometimes I wear my motorcycle
heated vest
plugged into the car lighter socket until such time as the heater begins to produce
heat. Works
great. Doesn't use much power.
Try this site for info: http://www.4atlast.com/index.htm
Bob McC
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
> There sure is Don. Take a lesson from motorcycle riders who have been using
> heated vests for years to stay warm at very low temperature. I've used
> these vests and they are nice because they don't adversely restrict your
> movements. In conjunction with a jacket (which you would wear anyway) I
> think it would be a good solution.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Georgetown, TX
> Waiting to start Fuselage
> RV6 N699BM Reserved
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | VM1000 Lead Time |
> This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems.
> What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
>
>
A bunch of us in SO. CAL are using the RMI system, We like them.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
----------------
I have an RMI in the -8, and it works fine, but I'll be putting an EIS-4000
in the RV-3B. The cons of the RMI are:
-It doesn't speak English. I want temps in Fahrenheit damit! They have no
interest in changing this because it means they can get by with one less
display character for EGT. Despite what you were told in school 30 years
ago, we aren't really switching to metric. (For the non-USA readers, I'm
only kidding. We're changing to metric next week- really, I promise )
Nobody in this country speaks of EGT's and CHT's in Celsius. It's a
computer- make it give me what I want. (ohhh-kaaaa, maybe too much coffee
)
-In hot, direct sun, the display becomes unreadable. I don't recall this
being a problem with the EIS that I had in my Kolb. In the Summer, when I
pull the plane out of the hanger, I have to make sure that I turn the plane
so the Florida sun doesn't shine directly on the RMI. If it does, you can't
read the unit at startup, and it will only become readable when some air
starts flowing and your taxiing. This wouldn't be the best time to find out
you don't have oil pressure. BTW- yes it has an alarm for oil pressure, but
it's always going off during startup because a couple things are out of
range, therefore you've been forced to silence the alarm without knowing if
it's OK to do so.
-It doesn't allow 4 cylinder CHT and EGT monitoring. You can use a switch
to view and monitor one cylinder at a time, but you won't know that 3 is out
of range if you're looking at 1.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project, the garage smells like greasy engines
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'"
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Here are the websites... DUH...
IK2000TM - http://i-ktechnologies.com/
EIS4000P - http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys - be sure to check out the
Comprehensive leaning Functionality this thing has...
Also, I was just perusing my new Kit Planes mag and there is an article
on making your own digital engine monitor on the cheap in there...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
I looked at both of these when I was getting ready to buy... I ended up
getting the EIS but am not flying yet so all I can say is it was a piece
of cake to install, it is very small and light, easy to read, and the
support is first class... The company has an incredible
guarantee/warranty:
1-year trial period. If you don't like it for any reason, we will refund
you money any time in the first year after purchase. 2-year warranty for
parts and labor for instrument and all probes and accessories. Lifetime
warranty for manufacturing defects.
I know nothing about the IK2000TM unit and am not trying to take
anything away from it's quality or capability. I am sure it is an
excellent unit...
This is simply a feature/price comparison...
IK2000TM FLIGHT & ENGINE MONITORING SYSTEM
Indicated Airspeed
Altitude & Altitude Variation
RPM
Manifold Pressure
Voltage
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Flow (gph)
Fuel - % Remaining
Cylinder Head Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
4-Cylinder System: $1999
SENSORS
Oil Temperature: $29
Oil Pressure: $49
Fuel Pressure: $49
Type-J CHT Thermocouples $156
Type-K EGT Thermocouples $236
Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179
Total $2697
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
EIS 4000P Engine Monitoring System
4 Exhaust Gas Temperatures
4 Cylinder Head Temperatures
Tachometer
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Outside Air Temperature
Voltmeter - ammeter coming soon
Carburetor Temperature
Hour meter
Flight Timer with Interval Timer
Fuel flow rate
Fuel remaining
Time until empty
Pre-wired Harness
4 Auxiliary Inputs user configurable can provide:
Manifold Pressure (normally aspirated or turbo)
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Level (using capacitive or float-type sending units) Coolant
Pressure
Rotor-RPM
Advanced EIS Model-4000 package $995
SENSORS (not included in package)
Upgrade to Bayonet Style CHT probes $96
Fuel Pressure $35
Fuel Level - make your own capacitance senders
Outside Air Temperature $20
Carb Air Temperature $28
MAP $60
OTHER OPTIONS
Fuel Flow w/Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor $375
Airspeed/Altimeter/VSI Option $149
Total
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
As I understand it, All the EAA planes are painted at Watertown.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: The Paint Job
Hi Paul:
Friend if mine hand his ercoupe stripped and repainted recently and I
believe he paid around $4500 for it. Not sure of the exact amount. Turned
out REALLY nice. Guy has been at it for awhile. He is based at the
Watertown WI airport. I can get his name and particulars for you if you
wish. Once I have a gaggle of aluminum parts flying in formation, I plan to
pay him a visit.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: The Paint Job
>
> I am trying to get a feel for costs associated with the paint job. What
are
> painters out there charging for a middle of the road paint job?
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for a painter in the Midwest?
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Bill,
Good to show the similarities in the amount of information each of these
units show.
HOWEVER, The IK-2000 shows every one of them at the same time (with
exception of OAT and True air speed which are shown with a push of a
button), while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. The later also
does not have graphical (LED displays. You are correct, one costs $1000
more. However, its really not apples and apples, although both are very good
units. Just look at the displays and see which one is telling you more
(again, it costs more to see more). Comparing the IK-2000 to the VM-1000 is
more like apples to apples, and the IK-2000 seems to win in my book.
Jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
I looked at both of these when I was getting ready to buy... I ended up
getting the EIS but am not flying yet so all I can say is it was a piece
of cake to install, it is very small and light, easy to read, and the
support is first class... The company has an incredible
guarantee/warranty:
1-year trial period. If you don't like it for any reason, we will refund
you money any time in the first year after purchase.
2-year warranty for parts and labor for instrument and all probes and
accessories.
Lifetime warranty for manufacturing defects.
I know nothing about the IK2000TM unit and am not trying to take
anything away from it's quality or capability. I am sure it is an
excellent unit...
This is simply a feature/price comparison...
IK2000TM FLIGHT & ENGINE MONITORING SYSTEM
Indicated Airspeed
Altitude & Altitude Variation
RPM
Manifold Pressure
Voltage
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Flow (gph)
Fuel - % Remaining
Cylinder Head Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
4-Cylinder System: $1999
SENSORS
Oil Temperature: $29
Oil Pressure: $49
Fuel Pressure: $49
Type-J CHT Thermocouples $156
Type-K EGT Thermocouples $236
Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179
Total $2697
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
EIS 4000P Engine Monitoring System
4 Exhaust Gas Temperatures
4 Cylinder Head Temperatures
Tachometer
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Outside Air Temperature
Voltmeter - ammeter coming soon
Carburetor Temperature
Hour meter
Flight Timer with Interval Timer
Fuel flow rate
Fuel remaining
Time until empty
Pre-wired Harness
4 Auxiliary Inputs user configurable can provide:
Manifold Pressure (normally aspirated or turbo)
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Level (using capacitive or float-type sending units)
Coolant Pressure
Rotor-RPM
Advanced EIS Model-4000 package $995
SENSORS (not included in package)
Upgrade to Bayonet Style CHT probes $96
Fuel Pressure $35
Fuel Level - make your own capacitance senders
Outside Air Temperature $20
Carb Air Temperature $28
MAP $60
OTHER OPTIONS
Fuel Flow w/Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor $375
Airspeed/Altimeter/VSI Option $149
Total $1758
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wrecked rv 8 bidding |
my brother just sent me a link to bid on this wrecked rv 8a. look at the very
bottom of the page there is a link to some pixs. look at that front gear!
wow
scott
tampa
see link below
http://www.phoenixaviationmgrs.com/Salvage_interface/Table/N9164Y-Input.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Jim, the EIS shows 6 parameters at once and monitors all of them
constantly with alarms for out of limits parameters... Also, one thing
I thought of doing early on was getting the EIS with all the options,
and also getting a second (base) unit so I could display 12 parameters
at a time... Kind of like the Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor and Micro
Encoder This configuration would cost about $2400...
Again, you can also get a slave unit for the back seater if need be...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Norman
Subject: RE: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
-->
Bill,
Good to show the similarities in the amount of information each of these
units show.
HOWEVER, The IK-2000 shows every one of them at the same time (with
exception of OAT and True air speed which are shown with a push of a
button), while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. The later
also does not have graphical (LED displays. You are correct, one costs
$1000 more. However, its really not apples and apples, although both are
very good units. Just look at the displays and see which one is telling
you more (again, it costs more to see more). Comparing the IK-2000 to
the VM-1000 is more like apples to apples, and the IK-2000 seems to win
in my book.
Jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
I looked at both of these when I was getting ready to buy... I ended up
getting the EIS but am not flying yet so all I can say is it was a piece
of cake to install, it is very small and light, easy to read, and the
support is first class... The company has an incredible
guarantee/warranty:
1-year trial period. If you don't like it for any reason, we will refund
you money any time in the first year after purchase. 2-year warranty for
parts and labor for instrument and all probes and accessories. Lifetime
warranty for manufacturing defects.
I know nothing about the IK2000TM unit and am not trying to take
anything away from it's quality or capability. I am sure it is an
excellent unit...
This is simply a feature/price comparison...
IK2000TM FLIGHT & ENGINE MONITORING SYSTEM
Indicated Airspeed
Altitude & Altitude Variation
RPM
Manifold Pressure
Voltage
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Flow (gph)
Fuel - % Remaining
Cylinder Head Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (4 or 6 cylinders)
4-Cylinder System: $1999
SENSORS
Oil Temperature: $29
Oil Pressure: $49
Fuel Pressure: $49
Type-J CHT Thermocouples $156
Type-K EGT Thermocouples $236
Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179
Total $2697
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
EIS 4000P Engine Monitoring System
4 Exhaust Gas Temperatures
4 Cylinder Head Temperatures
Tachometer
Oil Temperature
Oil Pressure
Outside Air Temperature
Voltmeter - ammeter coming soon
Carburetor Temperature
Hour meter
Flight Timer with Interval Timer
Fuel flow rate
Fuel remaining
Time until empty
Pre-wired Harness
4 Auxiliary Inputs user configurable can provide:
Manifold Pressure (normally aspirated or turbo)
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Level (using capacitive or float-type sending units) Coolant
Pressure Rotor-RPM
Advanced EIS Model-4000 package $995
SENSORS (not included in package)
Upgrade to Bayonet Style CHT probes $96
Fuel Pressure $35
Fuel Level - make your own capacitance senders
Outside Air Temperature $20
Carb Air Temperature $28
MAP $60
OTHER OPTIONS
Fuel Flow w/Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor $375
Airspeed/Altimeter/VSI Option $149
Total $1758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wrecked rv 8 bidding |
Now, that is sad !! and it looks hauntingly familiar.
Like the -8a which bounced and collapsed it's nosegear after just flying
off it's time, flipped over also about ayear (?) ago or so.
Gert
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> my brother just sent me a link to bid on this wrecked rv 8a. look at the very
> bottom of the page there is a link to some pixs. look at that front gear!
> wow
> scott
> tampa
> see link below
> http://www.phoenixaviationmgrs.com/Salvage_interface/Table/N9164Y-Input.htm
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lind <dlind(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone looking for a new 0-360 for their project?
I have an 0-360-A1A factory new engine (zero time) that has had a custom
port, polish and flow bench of all cylinders and 10 to 1 compression
pistons installed (cost $2500).
It comes with Slick magnetos, light weight starter, carb and prop
governor adapter.
(Can be converted to fixed pitch prop). Will have warranty, is
available now. $22,900.
do not archieve
Dave Lind
San Diego, Ca
858 755-6117
dlind(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LONG: Reflections on flying an RV |
>
> What engine/prop combo are you running? Your story
> sounds great. I better get out and pound some rivets.
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV7 Wings 50%
Ross, I have the O360 C/S. Airflow Perf. fuel injection, Lasar ignition.
This cold weather we have really makes these planes perform.
Alex
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P) |
Regarding engine monitors -- as of this point its not yet in production, but
the engine monitor to wait for IMHO is the ACS2002. Take a look at
http://www.advanced-control-systems.com. I think it'll blow the others out
of the water.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | baggage compartment door |
Listers -
Do the baggage compartment door support strips get centered on the firewall
and back-of-the-panel bulkheads? The instructions say to center and chop
off both ends, so I assume that means center it across the fuse. So where
does it go on top of the bulkheads? If it is to support a door, I am
guessing that the aft strip should overlap forward and the forward strip
overlay on the back of the flange. Help?
Also, how much travel should the rudder have? The book says 30-35 degrees.
Does that mean total travel? If so, I've got WAY more than that even before
it stops. Should I position the rudder stops to limit travel to the
prescribed 35 degrees?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wrecked rv 8 bidding |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Does anyone know who's -8A this was? Looked like it was a nice airplane.
The accident description is unclear...something about "during
taxi/runup, lost control and nose gear collapsed, flipped over". Which
was it, runup, or taxi?? Hard to see how that kind of damage could be
done during either runup or taxi operations! If that's what happens to
the -8A nosegear during a runup, I'd better call Vans and ask for a
refund.
Has anybody seen this type of thing on the -6A's? Maybe it's just
coincidence or maybe I just notice it more since I'm building an -8A, but
it seems odd that there's been at least two -8A's totalled in accidents
involving the nose gear being bent....and there aren't many -8A's flying
yet. My impression from looking at the nosegear on the -6A and -8A is
that on the -8A, the gear seems to be longer and angled down a bit more
steeply than the -6A. Haven't asked Van's or made any measurements
though, so this is just hear-say. Maybe this makes it less tolerant to
shock?
Since there's an RV-8 Weak Wing Theory, I figure we might as well start
an RV-8A Weak Nose Gear Theory. Any takers? (Taildragger guys shut up!)
: )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A Finish Kit delivered today, including weak nose gear, the $350
shipping C.O.D. is killing me....(the fuse kit shipping only cost
$190....what gives?)
_______
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: wrecked rv 8 bidding
Now, that is sad !! and it looks hauntingly familiar.
Like the -8a which bounced and collapsed it's nosegear after just flying
off it's time, flipped over also about ayear (?) ago or so.
Gert
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> my brother just sent me a link to bid on this wrecked rv 8a. look at
the very
> bottom of the page there is a link to some pixs. look at that front
gear!
> wow
> scott
> tampa
> see link below
>
http://www.phoenixaviationmgrs.com/Salvage_interface/Table/N9164Y-Input.h
tm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | How many horses ? |
Listers,
I am about to order an engine for my RV6A, I can either order a 160 or a 180
hp. Does anyone have any idea what the advantages/disadvantages are to each
engine power? By looking though the postings, it seems half and half.
David Roseblade
RV6A, Finish kit top be delivered.
Dubai, UAE.
Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many horses ? |
If you can afford the 180, do it. I LOVE mine. I have a fixed pitch prop
on mine, too. If I had a CS prop, oh boy what a combo that would be.
Either way, you will be happy, but the extra power up front sure is nice
during a, well, not so good landing. (Not that I would know anything about
that)
I have a non painted 6A without a nose gear fairing, and with my fixed pitch
wood prop, I can cruise at 190 MPH. AND, my prop is limiting my RPM. That
is only at 2550 RPM.
Fuel consumption is not as good, about 9.5 GPH in cruise and 14 GPH on climb
however, but worth it, IMHO.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roseblade" <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-List: How many horses ?
>
> Listers,
>
> I am about to order an engine for my RV6A, I can either order a 160 or a
180
> hp. Does anyone have any idea what the advantages/disadvantages are to
each
> engine power? By looking though the postings, it seems half and half.
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6A, Finish kit top be delivered.
> Dubai, UAE.
> Persian Gulf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many horses ? |
--- David Roseblade wrote:
> I am about to order an engine for my RV6A, I can either order a 160
> or a 180
> hp. Does anyone have any idea what the advantages/disadvantages are
> to each engine power?
The answer is as it nearly always is: It depends.
In general, you want as many ponies as you can afford; better to have
them and not need them than need them and not have them.
In particular, you will find a 160 hp engine (high compression O-320)
will give you better fuel consumption, but a lower climb rate and lower
power at high elevations. They are not "supposed" to run auto fuel but
some folks do.
A 180 hp engine (std. compression O-360) will give higher fuel
consumption, but a better climb rate and when you go into the
high-elevation fields you will have more residual hp to get you out.
The 180 hp O-360 can be run on auto fuel whereas the 195 hp version
(with H pistons) should stick to the 100LL.
The O-320 in either hp is more plentiful on the used engine market, and
less expensive. Trust me when I say that a _good_ (hasn't been sitting
for years) mid-time O-360 is near impossible to find. Since you are
apparently ordering new or newly rebuilt this may not apply.
Conventional wisdom is that there is no speed difference between them,
but with 180 hp available one could run a higher pitch prop to eek out
a few more knots without reducing climb rate appreciably.
The decision tree looks something like this:
If you are a smaller person and live/will fly mostly at lower
elevations, the 160 hp will do you just fine, especially if you
build/equip light.
If you are a bigger person with a fully-equipped airplane, or you
live/will fly mostly at higher elevations, you will be happier (and
safer) with a 180 hp engine - and probably constant speed prop.
If you are really concerned about the future of 100LL (see todays
Avweb:
http://avweb.com/n/?01b
you will want to stay away from high compression engines such as the
160 hp O-320 and the 195 hp O-360... although as I say there are some
running these engines on lower grades of fuel without complaint - so
far.
YMMV - good luck in your decision!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward (Aerosport 180 hp O-360)
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine monitors |
All these new systems are going in the opposite direction to what I want.
I don't give a d*mn about pictures and lots of zippy-looking gauges and
stuff. Those are just a useless distraction, as far as I am concerned. And
a waste of time, after all, if what you want is something complicated to
boggle the minds of the unenlightened, there's no substitute for good
old-fashioned steam gauges, and lots of 'em.
I just want to know if my engine's OK.
For me, a perfect engine monitor would take next-to-zero panel space and
would say something like "Engine's OK!" or, maybe "Wait a minute and let it
warm up", and when things go wrong "It'll keep running for 10 more minutes".
It should also be cheap enough that I can afford a really cool EFIS, where
cool graphics can actually help me fly the plane better and more safely.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:56 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: ACS2002 (was Re: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P)
>
>
>
>
> Regarding engine monitors -- as of this point its not yet in
> production, but
> the engine monitor to wait for IMHO is the ACS2002. Take a look at
> http://www.advanced-control-systems.com. I think it'll blow
> the others out
> of the water.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo / FAB question |
Sorry to be so slow, I was off on a trip.
See http://www.skywagon.homestead.com/fwf.html
This is a rather radical approach, and would work better with the 200 hp
cowl, or the Sam James cowl I am using. But it would solve your problems.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
OK, since I've almost used up my allotment of monthly questions, I thought
I'd better sneak one more in before the end of the year.
I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that If
I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the servo
and don't interfere!
My quesiton is, since there are some of you undoubtedly flying with the
Bendix Fuel Injection on the 180 h.p. 360, how did you go about mounting the
FAB, and/or the servo to ensure full operation and easy hookup for the cable
to the mixture arm?? I've searched the archives and LOTS of websites, but
no conclusive photos.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Finishing the finish kit & looking for a hangar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many horses ? |
The 160 is a 91-96 octane engine. According to the article it should run on
the new 91-98 specification if produced (as I interpret it).
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> --- David Roseblade wrote:
> > I am about to order an engine for my RV6A, I can either order a 160
> > or a 180
> > hp. Does anyone have any idea what the advantages/disadvantages are
> > to each engine power?
>
> The answer is as it nearly always is: It depends.
>
> In general, you want as many ponies as you can afford; better to have
> them and not need them than need them and not have them.
>
> In particular, you will find a 160 hp engine (high compression O-320)
> will give you better fuel consumption, but a lower climb rate and lower
> power at high elevations. They are not "supposed" to run auto fuel but
> some folks do.
>
> A 180 hp engine (std. compression O-360) will give higher fuel
> consumption, but a better climb rate and when you go into the
> high-elevation fields you will have more residual hp to get you out.
> The 180 hp O-360 can be run on auto fuel whereas the 195 hp version
> (with H pistons) should stick to the 100LL.
>
> The O-320 in either hp is more plentiful on the used engine market, and
> less expensive. Trust me when I say that a _good_ (hasn't been sitting
> for years) mid-time O-360 is near impossible to find. Since you are
> apparently ordering new or newly rebuilt this may not apply.
>
> Conventional wisdom is that there is no speed difference between them,
> but with 180 hp available one could run a higher pitch prop to eek out
> a few more knots without reducing climb rate appreciably.
>
> The decision tree looks something like this:
>
> If you are a smaller person and live/will fly mostly at lower
> elevations, the 160 hp will do you just fine, especially if you
> build/equip light.
>
> If you are a bigger person with a fully-equipped airplane, or you
> live/will fly mostly at higher elevations, you will be happier (and
> safer) with a 180 hp engine - and probably constant speed prop.
>
> If you are really concerned about the future of 100LL (see todays
> Avweb:
> http://avweb.com/n/?01b
> you will want to stay away from high compression engines such as the
> 160 hp O-320 and the 195 hp O-360... although as I say there are some
> running these engines on lower grades of fuel without complaint - so
> far.
>
> YMMV - good luck in your decision!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward (Aerosport 180 hp O-360)
>
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Tee barb fitting? |
For those who're using Van's manifold pressure gauge in combination with
a Lightspeed ignition module, how did you tee into the 3/32 gauge line
for the 1/8 ignition line? I've been unable to find an appropriately
sized tee fitting.
One little problem after another. I must be almost done... Right? :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Tee barb fitting? |
I just did this yesterday!...
Go to Home Depot and take a sample of your tubing with you. The smallest T I
could find was 1/4 inch (in the plumbing section). So, I bought 1 foot of
1/4 inch ID tubing, AND 1 foot of 1/4 OD tubing (note one is ID, the other
is ID). The second fits inside the first which is put onto the T fitting.
(I used about 1.5 inches of each), and presto, Van's tubing fits perfectly
(tight) inside the second tubing. I got each "outside" tube hot in water
first to allow me to put the inside tube in all the way (a little over one
inch). When it cooled, I could not pull them apart. Then heated up these two
and inserted Van's little tube.... and now I can't get it out. Total cost:
$1.11.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: Tee barb fitting?
For those who're using Van's manifold pressure gauge in combination with
a Lightspeed ignition module, how did you tee into the 3/32 gauge line
for the 1/8 ignition line? I've been unable to find an appropriately
sized tee fitting.
One little problem after another. I must be almost done... Right? :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Servo / FAB question |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
12:27:11 PM
Hey John,
Where did you get the elbow for the servo?
Thanks
Eric
"John & Teresa Huft" (at)matronics.com on 01/03/2002
09:46:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
Sorry to be so slow, I was off on a trip.
See http://www.skywagon.homestead.com/fwf.html
This is a rather radical approach, and would work better with the 200 hp
cowl, or the Sam James cowl I am using. But it would solve your problems.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
OK, since I've almost used up my allotment of monthly questions, I thought
I'd better sneak one more in before the end of the year.
I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that If
I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the servo
and don't interfere!
My quesiton is, since there are some of you undoubtedly flying with the
Bendix Fuel Injection on the 180 h.p. 360, how did you go about mounting
the
FAB, and/or the servo to ensure full operation and easy hookup for the
cable
to the mixture arm?? I've searched the archives and LOTS of websites, but
no conclusive photos.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Finishing the finish kit & looking for a hangar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Engineering's Web site |
I cannot bring up LSE's web site, it only shows a blank page. Would a kind
soul try it ... it may be my local problem...their web address is
www.lsecorp.com Thanks
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Mark,
Buy the -7. I am just about finished with my "slow" build non/punched -6.
The -7 isn't just a "little" faster to build, it's a whole different world.
I know someone building a -7 and the kits are unbelievable. Unless you can
save a HUGE amount of money buying an older -6 kit, I wouldn't. You'll
still end up spending the same amount for the
fusealage/finish/engine/instruments/prop no matter which one you build. The
time and mainly frustration you'll save by going with the -7 will be worth
it. FYI, the -7 performs just as good if not better than the -6, depending
on engine/prop of course.
Either way, you'll have one fine airplane!
Good luck,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Almost mostly finished the finish kit!
-----Original Message-----
Hi all,
This is my first post. I still haven't taken the plunge of buying a RV-7
tail kit because I'm trying to decide whether to buy an RV6 tail (complete)
and wings (75% complete) for half of the cost, or go with the RV-7. I
understand that the RV-7 is a little quicker to build, and has a littler
higher baggage carrying capability, but may be less performance than an
RV-6. Does anyone have experience in building both types and/or flying both
types? (I realize there's only 1 RV-7 flying, but you never know). Is there
any other disadvantages/advantages that I should know?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Engineering's Web site |
John,
Try http://www.pro.lightspeedengineering.com/index.htm
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Engineering's Web site
>
> I cannot bring up LSE's web site, it only shows a blank page. Would a kind
> soul try it ... it may be my local problem...their web address is
> www.lsecorp.com Thanks
>
> John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
01/03/2002 01:34:40 PM
It is almost time for me to decide which way to go as I am almost done with
the tail. I was almost sure that I would go with the 8-A until yesterday's
post which had a photo of a 8-A with a bent nose gear. I have heard of
several bent gears in the past year which resulted in serious damage to the
aircraft. I am a low time pilot with no conventional gear time and have
managed to land over 400 times so far without pegging the nose gear. Most
of my recent time has been in Grumman AA5A Cheetahs which land a little
faster than the RV's. The Cheetah requires precise speed control on flare
if you don't want to float down the runway, so it is probably the closest
thing that I will get to the RV for now as far as experience goes. Now
that you all know my limited background, I ask for your opinions:
1) Would I be better off getting a conventional gear sign-off and going
with the sturdier conventional gear, or
2) Should I trust that my training and experience that I have accumulated
so far will keep me out of trouble with the tricycle gear. My plane will
hardly ever see an unpaved strip, so this is not an issue.
In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time learning
conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
Don Alexander
RV-8?
Tail almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Engineering's Web site |
John,
Try this : http://www.lightspeedengineering.com
cliff
>
> I cannot bring up LSE's web site, it only shows a blank page. Would a kind
> soul try it ... it may be my local problem...their web address is
> www.lsecorp.com Thanks
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Wittman" <fmico(at)iaxs.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Engineering's Web site |
It came right up for me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Engineering's Web site
I cannot bring up LSE's web site, it only shows a blank page. Would a kind
soul try it ... it may be my local problem...their web address is
www.lsecorp.com Thanks
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
In a message dated 1/2/02 6:33:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
<< while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. >>
I've got no ax to grind one way or the other Jim but this is not true of the
EIS 4000. Mine isn't installed yet and I'm just beginning to understand all
it can do, but the manual clearly shows that the 4000 P can display as many
as eight key engine parameters at a time (for example, RPM, MP, fuel
pressure, highest CHT, highest EGT, oil pressure and temp, and fuel flow),
plus you can arrange the parameters pretty much any way you like on something
like fifteen different pages. I looked hard at the IK2000, and it is a lot
sexier looking, but I went with the EIS for half the price. Time will tell
whether I made a wise decision or not.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
From what I gather from the RV-8A is that it was lost taxiing. I couldn't
tell from the pictures, but you don't know how to use a vernier prop or
throttle, things can get away from you. The plane only had 9.1 hours
according to the insurance report. Going full throttle down into a ditch
would probably flip a tailwheel plane as well.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 vs RV-8A
It is almost time for me to decide which way to go as I am almost done with
the tail. I was almost sure that I would go with the 8-A until yesterday's
post which had a photo of a 8-A with a bent nose gear. I have heard of
several bent gears in the past year which resulted in serious damage to the
aircraft. I am a low time pilot with no conventional gear time and have
managed to land over 400 times so far without pegging the nose gear. Most
of my recent time has been in Grumman AA5A Cheetahs which land a little
faster than the RV's. The Cheetah requires precise speed control on flare
if you don't want to float down the runway, so it is probably the closest
thing that I will get to the RV for now as far as experience goes. Now
that you all know my limited background, I ask for your opinions:
1) Would I be better off getting a conventional gear sign-off and going
with the sturdier conventional gear, or
2) Should I trust that my training and experience that I have accumulated
so far will keep me out of trouble with the tricycle gear. My plane will
hardly ever see an unpaved strip, so this is not an issue.
In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time learning
conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
Don Alexander
RV-8?
Tail almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring to use in wings |
I am finishing up my wings and running wires for the electrical. I admit to
not having studied up on this yet, but perhaps someone can give me an easy
answer.
I have a landinng light in each wing and will have the nav/strobe in each
wingtip (strobe on the rudder as well).
Question is, how small a gauge wire can I safely run out there without
worrying about noise? The pre-punched holes in the ribs (for wire run) is
not very big and I don't want to have to drill more rib-holes.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
Don:
I've been a CFI for 30+ years with thousands of hrs of taildragger time
also. I really would not consider the tri-gear RV-6/7/9 less sturdy than the
taildraggers for normal operation. I believe where some pilots may have
come to grief in the tri-gear is just poor training and/or technique.
I emphasized to my tri-gear students than you must develop a mindset that
the nosewheel of any airplane (from an RV to a 757) is to NEVER, EVER be
considered a "landing" gear. It is not designed to withstand the landing
loads of the main gear. The tri-gear is landed near stall with the nose
gear well clear of the ground and you never "push" the airplane on the
ground or get yourself in a situation that the nose gear will touch first or
receive any undue load. You never push forward on the elevator control
during flare and landing.
I would start my C-150 landing students with full stall standings such that
when the airplane touched downed the control wheel was ALL THE WAY AFT and
remained so during the landing rollout. The student was engrained with the
concept that an airplane was landed in this manner. This technique was
later modified for different and heavier tri-gear aircraft or in varying
wind conditions, but he/she always had the mindset that the nosewheel was
not a "landing gear"... it was a "taxi gear".
Sounds like you have the proper mindset in flying your Cheetah. I'm sure
you would have no trouble at all with the tri-gear version and with a
thorough and proper checkout with an experienced taildragger instructor, you
would do fine in the taildragger version also.
Doug Weiler
RV-4
MN Wing
>
> 1) Would I be better off getting a conventional gear sign-off and going
> with the sturdier conventional gear, or
> 2) Should I trust that my training and experience that I have accumulated
> so far will keep me out of trouble with the tricycle gear. My plane will
> hardly ever see an unpaved strip, so this is not an issue.
>
> In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
> tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time
learning
> conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
>
> Don Alexander
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Harry, My mistake.
As I read more about it I see that you are correct. I was fooled by some of
the pictures that are on the web site rather than researching it better.
Thanks for the clarification (to you and to Bill Vondane) and for setting me
straight. It does look like a great unit for the money.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
In a message dated 1/2/02 6:33:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
<< while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. >>
I've got no ax to grind one way or the other Jim but this is not true of the
EIS 4000. Mine isn't installed yet and I'm just beginning to understand all
it can do, but the manual clearly shows that the 4000 P can display as many
as eight key engine parameters at a time (for example, RPM, MP, fuel
pressure, highest CHT, highest EGT, oil pressure and temp, and fuel flow),
plus you can arrange the parameters pretty much any way you like on
something
like fifteen different pages. I looked hard at the IK2000, and it is a lot
sexier looking, but I went with the EIS for half the price. Time will tell
whether I made a wise decision or not.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: wrecked rv 8 bidding |
The builder's INFO..
Serial Number 81294 Type Registration Individual
Manufacturer Name VOTAW RONALD E Certificate Issue Date 03/30/2001
Model RV8A Status Valid
Type Aircraft Fixed Wing Single-Engine Type Engine Reciprocating
Pending Number Change None Dealer No
Date Change Authorized None Mode S Code 53127760
MFR Year 2001 Fractional Owner NO
Registered Owner
Name VOTAW RONALD E
Street 1487 S WILD OAKS DR
City NIXA State MISSOURI Zip Code 65714-8269
County CHRISTIAN
Country UNITED STATES
Airworthiness
Engine Manufacturer LYCOMING
Classification Experimental
Engine Model 0-360-A1D Category Amateur Built
A/W Date 07/01/2001
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: wrecked rv 8 bidding
my brother just sent me a link to bid on this wrecked rv 8a. look at the
very
bottom of the page there is a link to some pixs. look at that front gear!
wow
scott
tampa
see link below
http://www.phoenixaviationmgrs.com/Salvage_interface/Table/N9164Y-Input.htm<
/A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
Don,
It's going to come down to preference. You may know that the opinions of the
folks at Van's run toward the tri-gear, even for unimproved/short fields.
That's fine, but one of the reasons I am building an RV is that they offer a
tail-dragger. I am building the -8 (conventional) primarily because I prefer
the looks of it on the ground. Most of my landings (and takeoffs) will be
from paved strips, but I will feel better landing a tail-dragger in the
grass and on a beach, when the opportunity arises.
But, I have a general question regarding the conventional/tri-gear issue
that I cannot understand. I don't get why pilots (presumably adventurous
people) are reluctant to try their skills at at tail-dragger. Today's
student pilot has to go out of his/her way to find instruction in a
tail-dragger, but I would think it would be something you would want to do
out of natural curiosity. Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from?
Keith Vasey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 vs RV-8A
It is almost time for me to decide which way to go as I am almost done with
the tail. I was almost sure that I would go with the 8-A until yesterday's
post which had a photo of a 8-A with a bent nose gear. I have heard of
several bent gears in the past year which resulted in serious damage to the
aircraft. I am a low time pilot with no conventional gear time and have
managed to land over 400 times so far without pegging the nose gear. Most
of my recent time has been in Grumman AA5A Cheetahs which land a little
faster than the RV's. The Cheetah requires precise speed control on flare
if you don't want to float down the runway, so it is probably the closest
thing that I will get to the RV for now as far as experience goes. Now
that you all know my limited background, I ask for your opinions:
1) Would I be better off getting a conventional gear sign-off and going
with the sturdier conventional gear, or
2) Should I trust that my training and experience that I have accumulated
so far will keep me out of trouble with the tricycle gear. My plane will
hardly ever see an unpaved strip, so this is not an issue.
In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time learning
conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
Don Alexander
RV-8?
Tail almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
<< Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who will
ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
scott
tampa
RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo / FAB question |
Eric, I got the elbow from Lycon in CA (559-651-1070), but I am 93% sure it
was made by Sky Dynamics in Virginia, 540-297-6754.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
Hey John,
Where did you get the elbow for the servo?
Thanks
Eric
"John & Teresa Huft" (at)matronics.com on 01/03/2002
09:46:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
Sorry to be so slow, I was off on a trip.
See http://www.skywagon.homestead.com/fwf.html
This is a rather radical approach, and would work better with the 200 hp
cowl, or the Sam James cowl I am using. But it would solve your problems.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo / FAB question
OK, since I've almost used up my allotment of monthly questions, I thought
I'd better sneak one more in before the end of the year.
I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that If
I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the servo
and don't interfere!
My quesiton is, since there are some of you undoubtedly flying with the
Bendix Fuel Injection on the 180 h.p. 360, how did you go about mounting
the
FAB, and/or the servo to ensure full operation and easy hookup for the
cable
to the mixture arm?? I've searched the archives and LOTS of websites, but
no conclusive photos.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Finishing the finish kit & looking for a hangar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo / FAB question |
You can get them from your engine builder (ie, LyCon, Visalia, CA) or
there are a variety of shapes/sizes from Airflow Performance.
Boyd.
>Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey John,
>
> Where did you get the elbow for the servo?
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03:42:46 PM
Ahh Grasshoppa,
But the RV does not seem very prone to groundloop. I don't know anyone that
has perfected one yet. At least that I've seen reported. Anyone wan't to
admit to it?
We won't raz ya, really.
Eric Henson
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 01/03/2002 02:51:51 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 vs RV-8A
<< Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who will
ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
scott
tampa
RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Mark,
I concurr with Stein on this. Having built (building) both he is surely
right. The -6 was fine for one of us old "grab a sheet of Alcad and
start fabricating" kinda builder but the -7...what a dream to build.
You would never imagine the time savings you have with the pre-punched,
pre-formed components.
The -6 tail feathers took about 46 hrs. to complete and be ready to
hang. I've got around 30 on the -7 tail. Sure, having built a few
planes and knowing the general construction standards and techniques
helps speed things up but, it's a pure joy to work with the newer kits.
For the first time builder...it's a God send!
As far as comparing the two, just think of the -7 as a bigger, better,
stronger, faster -6. And a whole lot faster to build!
If you're starting from scratch, I'd go with the -7 IMHO.
Jim Duckett, N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> << Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
>
> thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
> taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who will
> ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
>
> scott
> tampa
> RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
C'mon, Scott, that's a glib & pithy bit of punditry, but you know better.
That's like saying of gun owners that there are those who have unintentionally
discharged their weapons while cleaning them and those who will do so, merely
because there are some people who have managed to shoot themselves in the foot
(or worse) in the same circumstances. Pardon me, but B.S.
I've said it before and I stand by it today: tailwheel airplanes, like
firearms and so many other things with which we're nearly all familiar,
require proper training, proficiency, respect and an absolute lack of
complacency. Given those conditions, they're as safe as anything can be made
to be in and of themselves.
An argument could certainly be made that nosewheel airplanes require less
training, proficiency and attention during operation than tailwheels, but what
does that say about a pilot who chooses one merely because of the lower
piloting standards required for 'safety'? There are any number of good
reasons to choose a nosewheel airplane (visibility, looks, unavailability of
tailwheel version, etc.), but the perceived 'inevitability' of a tailwheel
mishap certainly shouldn't be one of them.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
Ashland, MA
last 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many horses ? |
David Roseblade wrote:
There is no substitute for cubic inches. IMHO the price difference on new
engines from Vans does not make it worth buying the smaller engine. That said,
the largest gain the 180 hp will give is in climb performance.
Gary Zilik O-360-A1A, High compression pistons, Hartzell Constant speed prop.
>
> Listers,
>
> I am about to order an engine for my RV6A, I can either order a 160 or a 180
> hp. Does anyone have any idea what the advantages/disadvantages are to each
> engine power? By looking though the postings, it seems half and half.
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6A, Finish kit top be delivered.
> Dubai, UAE.
> Persian Gulf
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
I have a Magellan SkyBlazer XL that just quit working. Magellan has been
sold
to Thales Navigation and they no longer support the Megellan product and
will not repair or tell you where you can get it repaired. I will
replace it
with a Garmin as long as they support what they sell. Anyone know of
a place that would repair a Magellan SkyBlazer. It really was a nice GPS
while it worked.
Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Listers,
I've been following this thread with some interest, as I fell victim to
the "all eggs in one basket" electronic engine monitoring approach.
I offer my experience to those thinking about spending big $$$ on this type
of solution (especially on non-standard form factor units where if the unit
fails and the smaller manufacturer you bought it from has gone out of
business you are stuck):
A few years back I purchased an Allegro M816 for $1800 (from a small two
brother outfit, and of which I preached the capabilities of to the list ad
nauseum ).
Well, upon installation it turned out to faulty. Found out the company had
since gone out from the public eye, but thanks to the internet I was able
to locate a former principal. After two weeks this principal finally
responded to my e-mail, asking me to send the unit for repair asap.
Well, that was almost two months ago. Multiple e-mails, snail mails, and
phone messages since have gone unanswered. I'm afraid I'm out my $1800,
AND my faulty Allegro M816. If it shows up sometime before I write the
whole thing off I will post so as to redeem said principal. If it doesn't
show up...well I have a web page for that .
Rob Acker (RV-6, $1800 lost brings new meaning to the phrase "don't put all
your eggs in one basket"!).
>
>
> Harry, My mistake.
> As I read more about it I see that you are correct. I was fooled by
> some of the pictures that are on the web site rather than researching
> it better.
>
> Thanks for the clarification (to you and to Bill Vondane) and for
> setting me straight. It does look like a great unit for the money.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
>
>
> In a message dated 1/2/02 6:33:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
>
> << while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. >>
>
> I've got no ax to grind one way or the other Jim but this is not true
> of the EIS 4000. Mine isn't installed yet and I'm just beginning to
> understand all it can do, but the manual clearly shows that the 4000 P
> can display as many as eight key engine parameters at a time (for
> example, RPM, MP, fuel pressure, highest CHT, highest EGT, oil pressure
> and temp, and fuel flow), plus you can arrange the parameters pretty
> much any way you like on something
> like fifteen different pages. I looked hard at the IK2000, and it is a
> lot sexier looking, but I went with the EIS for half the price. Time
> will tell whether I made a wise decision or not.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
In 32 years of flying taildraggers I've yet to ground loop one. Also I have to
add that the RV-6 is the easiest tailwheel I've ever flown.
Dave -6 So Cal
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> << Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
>
> thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
> taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who will
> ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
>
> scott
> tampa
> RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
I searched the ntsb database with the search string "ground loop" for
the previous three years returning 363 hits most of which were in fact
taildraggers. There were some tri-gear airplanes including cessnas,
mooneys and pipers. When I limited the search to amateur built, it
returned 40 hits including one and only one RV, a 6 at Camarillo, whose
pilot was apparently distracted by a bird during a touch and go.
I also searched using "tail dragger" and got 6 hits. When I used
"directional control", I got 959 hits. After very cursory examination
of that list, it appears that at least half are tri-gear aircraft. When
I limited that search to amateur built, I got 100 hits including: 2
RV-6, 1 RV-6a, 1 RV-3a, and 1 RV-8. So, while RV's are dominating the
homebuilt ranks (this is based on completion rates and not the ntsb
database), only 5% of accidents attributed to loss of directional
control involved them in the last three years. If you use this very
limited sample, it would appear that tailwheel RV's are 4 times more
likely to lose directional control than tri-gear RV's, but less likely
than other homebuilts. There were 10 kitfoxes and 7 Pitts in the 100.
I failed to locate any mention of 2 types of taildragger pilots.
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
<< Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
>thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who
will
ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
scott
tampa
RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magellan GPS |
Same thing happened to my Magellan skystar. Let us know please if anyone has
a solution.
scottjohnson345(at)attbi.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Magellan GPS
>
> I have a Magellan SkyBlazer XL that just quit working. Magellan has been
> sold
> to Thales Navigation and they no longer support the Megellan product and
>
> will not repair or tell you where you can get it repaired. I will
> replace it
> with a Garmin as long as they support what they sell. Anyone know of
> a place that would repair a Magellan SkyBlazer. It really was a nice GPS
>
> while it worked.
> Earl RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
By the way, I went back and read the reports and two of the taildragger
RV accidents were caused by broken or jammed controls not pilot
technique.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 vs RV-8A
I searched the ntsb database with the search string "ground loop" for
the previous three years returning 363 hits most of which were in fact
taildraggers. There were some tri-gear airplanes including cessnas,
mooneys and pipers. When I limited the search to amateur built, it
returned 40 hits including one and only one RV, a 6 at Camarillo, whose
pilot was apparently distracted by a bird during a touch and go.
I also searched using "tail dragger" and got 6 hits. When I used
"directional control", I got 959 hits. After very cursory examination
of that list, it appears that at least half are tri-gear aircraft. When
I limited that search to amateur built, I got 100 hits including: 2
RV-6, 1 RV-6a, 1 RV-3a, and 1 RV-8. So, while RV's are dominating the
homebuilt ranks (this is based on completion rates and not the ntsb
database), only 5% of accidents attributed to loss of directional
control involved them in the last three years. If you use this very
limited sample, it would appear that tailwheel RV's are 4 times more
likely to lose directional control than tri-gear RV's, but less likely
than other homebuilts. There were 10 kitfoxes and 7 Pitts in the 100.
I failed to locate any mention of 2 types of taildragger pilots.
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
<< Where did the "fear" of tail-draggers come from? >>
>thats an easy answer. the NTSB data base, states there are 2 types of
taildragger pilots. the ones who have ground looped, and the ones who
will
ground loop, which equals the same amount of taildragger pilots.
scott
tampa
RV6A for practicality, but likes the looks of the RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Gear Box Nightmare |
Hello,
I have assembled the RV-8 gear boxes per plans, 'installed' and riveted
them to the fuselage only to discover that there is no way I know of to
rivet the reinforcement rivets holding the sides of the gear box to the
WD-822 weldments.
Skipping my 4 letter comments about the clarity (as in lack thereof) of
the plans, and realizing I should have bench riveted the gear box sides
to the weldments to begin with, does anyone have any suggestions for
getting at these rivets.
Regards and Thank
Vince Himsl
RV-8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
In a message dated 1/3/02 3:49:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
<< Ahh Grasshoppa,
But the RV does not seem very prone to groundloop. I don't know anyone that
has perfected one yet. At least that I've seen reported. Anyone wan't to
admit to it?
We won't raz ya, really.
Eric Henson >>
Mike Seager mentioned to me that he'd had a couple of interesting epsiodes
with students. He mentioned a scraped wingtip and may have mentioned a bent
gear leg.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Atlanta GA area RV Group |
Listers,
I am moving from the Dallas area, to Atlanta area in the next several
months.
Can anyone provide any information on airports that RV friendly, hanger
space availability/construction opportunities, or any residential airport
communities.
I will be working on the north side of Atlanta, I-285 & 400 area.
Any comments, Thanks in advance......Mark Steffensen
Mark Steffensen
8A 225 hours
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Gear Box Nightmare |
Vince,
It's not as hard as it looks. It does take two people in my opinion
though so make sure the other person doesn't have bad breath! :
)
You will need an offset 1/8 cup set and most likely two specially cut
bucking bars but it CAN be done. I did it and many others did too.
The two bucking bars you need are a tapered one to get in the corners
where the aux longeron goes through and a thin one to get where the normal
bars don't go. I fashioned mine from some old tooling steel that I found at
the airport.
If you want, we can talk off line.
Bob
RV8#423 working on pilot seat ramp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Gear Box Nightmare
Hello,
I have assembled the RV-8 gear boxes per plans, 'installed' and riveted
them to the fuselage only to discover that there is no way I know of to
rivet the reinforcement rivets holding the sides of the gear box to the
WD-822 weldments.
Skipping my 4 letter comments about the clarity (as in lack thereof) of
the plans, and realizing I should have bench riveted the gear box sides
to the weldments to begin with, does anyone have any suggestions for
getting at these rivets.
Regards and Thank
Vince Himsl
RV-8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
I think the RV-8A is the easiest plane to land that I have ever flown, most
of my 1400 hrs having been in Cessna's, but also including a number of low
wing planes such as Piper Warriors, Archers, etc. I have very little
taildragger time.Over the numbers at 65 kts, stick full aft at touchdown...
piece of cake! One thing that you may want to consider is the extra time
involved in construction of the 8A, mostly involved around the cowl
(trimming around the gear, additional time for another wheel and gear
fairing). I know this added several weeks of build time to my project.
Also, getting the lower cowl on and off involves additional time since you
have to remove the intersection fairing and lower cowl attachment to the
engine mount when taking it off. If I built another one, I might choose the
taildragger just for these reasons.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
80 hrs, prepping for paint
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 vs RV-8A
>
> It is almost time for me to decide which way to go as I am almost done
with
> the tail. I was almost sure that I would go with the 8-A until
yesterday's
> post which had a photo of a 8-A with a bent nose gear. I have heard of
> several bent gears in the past year which resulted in serious damage to
the
> aircraft. I am a low time pilot with no conventional gear time and have
> managed to land over 400 times so far without pegging the nose gear. Most
> of my recent time has been in Grumman AA5A Cheetahs which land a little
> faster than the RV's. The Cheetah requires precise speed control on flare
> if you don't want to float down the runway, so it is probably the closest
> thing that I will get to the RV for now as far as experience goes. Now
> that you all know my limited background, I ask for your opinions:
>
> 1) Would I be better off getting a conventional gear sign-off and going
> with the sturdier conventional gear, or
> 2) Should I trust that my training and experience that I have accumulated
> so far will keep me out of trouble with the tricycle gear. My plane will
> hardly ever see an unpaved strip, so this is not an issue.
>
> In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
> tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time
learning
> conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8?
> Tail almost done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
Just about the time this list gets so sedate and boring I think about
hanging it up, someone goes and starts a good old argument! Yippee!!!!
Don, The archives are littered with the ashes of the raging fires on this
never ending discussion. I will give you the short version of my standard
answer to this question and that is, It depends. If you are a good pilot
you will have no trouble flying an RV in either configuration and you can
wreck either one. Certainly the statistics would favor the -As but if that
is the only thing that matters buy a C-172 because I am certain the
statistics favor them too.
Go find someone who does instruction in a Citabria or a Cessna 140/120 and
get a tailwheel checkout. I did not say an hour, I said a checkout, because
after the first hour you will probably think you should have stuck with
automobiles. If you like the tailwheel build one. If you don't build a -A,
but you will always be better pilot having learned the skills to get your
tailwheel signoff. You win either way.
Most of us are drawn to aviation because it is challenging. Tailwheel
flying demands a higher level of effort on your part and give you a greater
feeling of accomplishment as a reward. If nose dragging is challenging
enough for you stick with it.
What ever you do, don't let some blowhard convince you to go one way or the
other because "real men don't fly trikes!" or "it takes superhuman skill to
fly a Taildragger!" neither is true.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
Snip
> In other words, does good technique keep you out of trouble with the
> tri-gear, or are my chances greater to prang it as I build up time
learning
> conventional gear ? Any guidance would be helpful.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8?
> Tail almost done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
guys, guys, guys
the source of my statement on the NSTB database is in book 2, chapter 15,
paragraph 6, line 18, and in the appendixes a, b,&c where it clearly states
( I WAS JOKING) but it is good to see the list on its toes, . like all
taildragger pilots.
oh yeah about the mike seager incident, it was probably me he was speaking
about. i had 10 hours with him and were nowhere closer to mastering the
tailwheel than when i started. i think i contributed to 3 or 4 ground loops
on 1 landing alone. like i said in my previous post, if i were going to sleep
with an airplane, it would be the RV6 :-) it is the sexiest thing on
springs. but since i'm only gonna fly it, i settled with the nosedragger.
these are only opionions, and and sick ones at that.
scott
tampa
did i say too much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
>
>
> In 32 years of flying taildraggers I've yet to ground loop one.
Geez! I would never say that!!!!! I would be afraid to go flying for sure.
My favorite Twin Beech story is, I was at OSH admiring a beautiful Beech18
when an old codger came up and said, "Ya ever fly one of these youngin'?
"Well yes sir I do." I said proud as I could be, the old codger replied, "Me
too, had 4000 hours in type when I ground looped it the first time......."
It is just like leaving the gear up on a retract, I never make fun of anyone
who did it, 'cause I could be next.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
Hello,
Can anyone confirm that I need to drill a hole in the top spar cap to
mount W422 tie down attachment fitting to the wing? It clearly shows a
3/16 bolt holding the W422 in place, however I would like confirmation
of what I am seeing before drilling the hole through the spar cap.
Thanks
Bill
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
>
>I am trying to get a feel for costs associated with the paint job. What are
>painters out there charging for a middle of the road paint job?
>
>Does anyone have recommendations for a painter in the Midwest?
>
>Paul
Paul,
My 6A was painted by Central Aviation at Watertown, Wisconsin. I'm very
happy with the job they did for around $4K. Details on my web page:
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/paint.html
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 310 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Tie Down Mount |
Yes that is what you do. Don't do like I did and install it upside down on
the opposite wing. I studied the plans carefully and installed the tie down
bracket on both wings identical. I guess I was trying to build two left
wings.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV6-List: Tie Down Mount
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "William Ginn"
>
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone confirm that I need to drill a hole in the top spar cap to
> mount W422 tie down attachment fitting to the wing? It clearly shows a
> 3/16 bolt holding the W422 in place, however I would like confirmation
> of what I am seeing before drilling the hole through the spar cap.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Jim Duckett wrote:
>
> As far as comparing the two, just think of the -7 as a bigger, better,
> stronger, faster -6. And a whole lot faster to build!
> If you're starting from scratch, I'd go with the -7 IMHO.
>
> Jim Duckett, N708JD
>
Ok, you have bigger and maybe faster to build but how do you come
up with better, stronger, faster?
My RV-6 was the second customer built RV-6 to take to the skies.
I made the first flight on it twenty months from the day I started
building it. I know many quick built kits that are taking
much longer than this. Faster build times would be proportional
to the amount of time you can spend on your project.
Certainly I would have liked to have all those pre made parts but
I also enjoyed the challenge of building them as we did in the old days.
:)
Jerry Springer
RV-6 first flight July 14, 1989
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
In a message dated 1/3/2002 5:59:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
> My 6A was painted by Central Aviation at Watertown, Wisconsin. I'm very
> happy with the job they did for around $4K.
Chris-
How about a phone number (and URL if they have one) for the next Yeller Pages
update?
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
> > My 6A was painted by Central Aviation at Watertown, Wisconsin. I'm very
> > happy with the job they did for around $4K.
>
>Chris-
>
>How about a phone number (and URL if they have one) for the next Yeller Pages
>update?
>
>-GV (N1GV)
Sure. No web site as far as I know, but here are the details:
Randy Effinger
Central Aviation
Watertown, WI 53094
(920) 261-1880
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 310 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Paint Job |
In a message dated 1/3/2002 6:59:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
> No web site as far as I know, but here are the details:
Chris-
Thanks! Hope you and Sue had a great Christmas. Maybe see you at OSH agian
this year.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Atlanta GA area RV Group |
Mark Steffensen wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I am moving from the Dallas area, to Atlanta area in the next several
> months.
>
> Can anyone provide any information on airports that RV friendly, hanger
> space availability/construction opportunities, or any residential airport
> communities.
>
> I will be working on the north side of Atlanta, I-285 & 400 area.
>
> Any comments, Thanks in advance......Mark Steffensen
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A 225 hours
> Dallas, TX
You might find some help here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/index.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | bolt torque chart? |
Can anyone explain to me how to read the bolt torque chart in the preview
plans? I'm looking for the torque values for the AN 4,5 and 6 bolts used
for the 8 landing gear. I can't figure this thing out. Also, is there a
quick way to translate inch pounds to foot pounds? I don't know where to
find a wrench that will got to 450 inch pounds.
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolt torque chart? |
12 times one inch pound = 1 foot pound
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: bolt torque chart?
>
> Can anyone explain to me how to read the bolt torque chart in the preview
> plans? I'm looking for the torque values for the AN 4,5 and 6 bolts used
> for the 8 landing gear. I can't figure this thing out. Also, is there a
> quick way to translate inch pounds to foot pounds? I don't know where to
> find a wrench that will got to 450 inch pounds.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV7and7A] Re: Food for thought... |
On this note:
> Are you sure you are quoting premiums at the same coverage levels
> with the same pilot ratings / hours?
I am a first-time homebuilder, building an RV-7, planning on putting in a
200hp Lycoming IO-360A3B6 (or a LyCon or Bart conversion or something
similar). I would love to get a sense of the "insurance pricing matrix",
which I guess would include the following (and probably several other)
axes/variables:
- hull value
- coverage limits
- pilot's total hours
- pilot's ratings
- pilot's tailwheel time (is this a factor?)
- first time builder (is this a factor?)
- engine type/certification/size (is size/horsepower a factor?)
- existing policy (same insurance co. or other) on a production aircraft
(is this a factor?)
Is there anybody out there who knows the definitive set of variables that
are taken into account? Does it vary from company to company?
I have high total time, a handful of ratings, plenty of tailwheel & retract
time (for whatever that's worth), I fly regularly, etc. I haven't gone
ahead and gotten a quote for my RV-7 yet (it'll be at least a year or two at
this rate), but I'd love to find out roughly what it's gonna run me...or at
least what it would cost today.
I wonder if there's any way to create an N-dimensional poll of sorts...where
currently flying RV pilots can enter the values for all these variables and
we could come up with some sort of meaningful average. Any ideas? I guess
short of something fancy, if anybody feels compelled to post their
information to the list (or feel free to send it to me privately if you
prefer), please do!
Thanks,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: bolt torque chart? |
Since there are 12 inches in a foot DIVIDE inch-pounds by 12 i.e... 450
in-lbs is 37.5 ft-lbs. --- Old math teacher
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
As for torque values get AC43.13-1B Chapter 7 section
3 Read it. Table 7-1 has all the recommended torque value in inch-pounds.
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: bolt torque chart?
Can anyone explain to me how to read the bolt torque chart in the preview
plans? I'm looking for the torque values for the AN 4,5 and 6 bolts used
for the 8 landing gear. I can't figure this thing out. Also, is there a
quick way to translate inch pounds to foot pounds? I don't know where to
find a wrench that will got to 450 inch pounds.
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
Dan,
My name is John Helms. I am an aviation insurance agent. I run an
office which handles only small aircraft, and we run the VanGuard
Program, which is a special insurance program for RVs. We deal with all
of the insurance companies which are competitive with light aircraft.
I can help you out, but you won't find anyone willing to publish rates
(Opens companies up for disputes and such if the underwriting dept.
decides (which is their job) not to give a certain discount to an
individual for some reason, and the rates change.) I can let you know
some general break points at which you would receive discounts,
generally what is going to affect your rates, etc. Generally, these are
going to be similar with any insurance company, however their base rates
may start out very different.
Many of the following are true of production aircraft as well:
Hull value - (also known as agreed value in the Physical Damage Coverage
section in insurance policy) determined by you, agreed to (or not) by
the insurance company. The companies generally want a production
aircrafts value to be within 25% of the blue book value generally, they
will deviate from that usually with justification. Homebuilts have no
blue book value and can vary widely. Generally, the company will insure
it for whatever you want (but will ask for justifications like IFR
panel, GPS, new engine, leather interior, etc. over a certain value).
For the program, this value is $80,000. Above that they want some
justification. The company assigns a rate (per $100 of value which you
and they agree upon) to charge you based on your experience (see below).
Coverage limits - I assume you mean Liability coverage limits.
Generally, most people (about 80%) carry $1 Million limited to $100,000
per passenger. (AVEMCO's coverage is written as per person which is
less protection for you because it limits bodily injury to $100,000 even
if the person is outside your plane... so if you kill someone outside
your plane and their family sues for $500,000, AVEMCO would pay a
maximum of $100,000 and you would pay the rest.... all the other
companies with the per passenger wording could pay up to $1,000,000 for
that persons death.) This coverage is generally much less expensive
than hull coverage and can be purchased seperately.
Pilot experience - (I lumped a few of your questions together.)
Generally, total time drives the rates more than anything else. The
lowest experienced level pilot is who drives the rates. Most companies
have break point of 100, 300, 500 hours total logged PIC time (FAA's
definition). At these break points the rates generally drop 5 or 10%.
Some companies give discounts for Instrument ratings, and for some
airplanes it may be required by some companies. Your gear experience
(tailwheel or retractable whichever is applicable to your airplane if it
is not tricycle) is important along with your time in make and model.
Each company does discounts for these as they go up but each does it
differently (some set goals like 300 tailwheel time and 100 hours make
and model nets a 10% discount, while others might say that when your
tailwheel time and make and model add up to be 500 it gets you a
discount.)
First time buider - no factor.
Engine type - The program will only insure RV's with the type (i.e.
Lycoming) and hp (i.e. not an IO 540) that is recommended by Van's
Aircraft for that type of RV. Automobile engines, turbines, etc can't
be insured by the program (and I don't believe any company other than
AVEMCO will write coverage if you have one of these engines)
Existing Policy - It is a good idea to build a relationship with one
insurance company. Generally, they feel comfortable with you, and you
with them and their policy (that you should really read.) It usually
provides you with very little monetary benefit to stay with the company
you're with now. Some companies don't write coverages for a lot of
homebuilts and the fact that they insure your spam can now won't matter
to them.
Please contact me at this email address or toll free 877 475 5860 if you
have any questions or if you would like for me to get you a "sense" of
where you would be at today if you were binding coverage.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs RV-8A |
Reading the list I guess most military aircraft are not REAL airplanes.That
aside,I got my 6A to fly and visit places I want,so please show me the pilot
out there that can tell me whether we are in a 6 or 6A while we are doing
what the plane was built for;TO FLY.
I also have a Christen Eagle that stays in the hgr. on windy crosswind days
but the 6A dosen't
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
Engine type - The program will only insure RV's with the type (i.e.
Lycoming) and hp (i.e. not an IO 540) that is recommended by Van's
Aircraft for that type of RV. Automobile engines, turbines, etc can't
be insured by the program (and I don't believe any company other than
AVEMCO will write coverage if you have one of these engines)
---------------
Hi John,
I'd like to clarify this point. I'm building an RV-3B with a Mazda Rotary
engine, and was planning to insure it for liability, and perhaps ground
coverage. Is it true that you won't insure my new plane at all, or is there
some limit like maybe liability only?
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
Yes it is true, not only will the VanGuard Program not insure your RV-3
(even though we insure your other RV) but none of the other companies we
deal with will insure it either.
I believe AVEMCO will.
John Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Insurance (Long)
Engine type - The program will only insure RV's with the type (i.e.
Lycoming) and hp (i.e. not an IO 540) that is recommended by Van's
Aircraft for that type of RV. Automobile engines, turbines, etc can't
be insured by the program (and I don't believe any company other than
AVEMCO will write coverage if you have one of these engines)
---------------
Hi John,
I'd like to clarify this point. I'm building an RV-3B with a Mazda Rotary
engine, and was planning to insure it for liability, and perhaps ground
coverage. Is it true that you won't insure my new plane at all, or is there
some limit like maybe liability only?
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magellan GPS |
Sorry to hear that. I have the same unit that I've been using for 5 years.
It was really great for the price. I've always had trouble with parts and
service though. I ordered a data cable for it a couple of years ago to
interface it with a Navaid, and it was like pulling teeth trying to get
through to customer service and trying to get the proper cable. I finally
got the right one, and about a year ago I managed to get the final update
disk (which was dated early 2000) which also took a while because "the
person that does those" was out for a couple of weeks. ??? Apparently this
person writes the code for each disk individually or something. Anyway,
I've almost hoped that mine would die someday so I'd have an excuse to get a
295...
Good luck in your search, but you might be better off cutting your losses
now.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I have a Magellan SkyBlazer XL that just quit working. Magellan has been
> sold
> to Thales Navigation and they no longer support the Megellan product and
>
> will not repair or tell you where you can get it repaired. I will
> replace it
> with a Garmin as long as they support what they sell. Anyone know of
> a place that would repair a Magellan SkyBlazer. It really was a nice GPS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
I just spoke with the man who created the VanGuard program. He is a regional
manager for NationAir. He confirmed that Van wanted to create a program for
"us" (the builders & operators) and that he expressed his concern that it
would be for airframes with the recommended powerplants only. This evidently
grew out of his engineering belief that the IO-540 and "car engines" are not
suitable for his design.
However, NationAir WILL get you insured on your Mazda-3. You can call them
at 800-456-0236 and ask for "Pleasure & Business".
Keith
Yes it is true, not only will the VanGuard Program not insure your RV-3
(even though we insure your other RV) but none of the other companies we
deal with will insure it either.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
Listers,
First of all, yes Richard Keltner (now a regional manager for NationAir) did
create the VanGuard Program. Then they asked me to administer it and I have
been doing so for 2.5 years.
No, we have no insurance companies that will insure any aircraft with an
automobile engine in it. AVEMCO is the only company that I am aware of that
will insure any aircraft with a car engine in it.
My number is 877 475 5860. The number posted earlier is our Seattle office
number.
Thanks
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Insurance (Long)
I just spoke with the man who created the VanGuard program. He is a regional
manager for NationAir. He confirmed that Van wanted to create a program for
"us" (the builders & operators) and that he expressed his concern that it
would be for airframes with the recommended powerplants only. This evidently
grew out of his engineering belief that the IO-540 and "car engines" are not
suitable for his design.
However, NationAir WILL get you insured on your Mazda-3. You can call them
at 800-456-0236 and ask for "Pleasure & Business".
Keith
Yes it is true, not only will the VanGuard Program not insure your RV-3
(even though we insure your other RV) but none of the other companies we
deal with will insure it either.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Auto Engine Insurance |
Dear Listers, We have had AIG Aviation insure our RV6A with a Chevy for
years. They are very reasonable and fair. I just spoke to a Mr. Jim Anderson
and was assured that the units for the Chevy engines are not a problem with
them. If you have questions please contact him at (480) 699-8350 They are in
Scottsdale, Arizona.
Jess Meyers
Belted Air Power
Las Vegas, NV 89102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine Insurance |
If AIG is writing coverage for Chevy engines it is news to me. I have a
call into AIG on this question. I will post the answer when I get it.
It isn't appropriate to contact them directly, it would be more appropriate
to do that thru an agent. They may take your call, and they might not. The
only direct writer is AVEMCO. All other insurance companies utilize
agencies to handle customer relations.
John "JT" Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: <BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Auto Engine Insurance
Dear Listers, We have had AIG Aviation insure our RV6A with a Chevy for
years. They are very reasonable and fair. I just spoke to a Mr. Jim Anderson
and was assured that the units for the Chevy engines are not a problem with
them. If you have questions please contact him at (480) 699-8350 They are in
Scottsdale, Arizona.
Jess Meyers
Belted Air Power
Las Vegas, NV 89102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone have a wiring chart that gives length of run, current load and
wire Gauge.
I'd like to have it just to have. You can email attach it to me or if it is
easier, fax it to 419-844-0280.
Specifically, I'd like to know what gauge wire to run to wing tip landing
lights, no more than 5 amps.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine Insurance |
Avemco has given approval to homebuilts using an Eggenfellner Subaru, which
is a complete firewall-forward kit.
http://www.subaruaircraft.com/
Dave Berryhill
>
>If AIG is writing coverage for Chevy engines it is news to me. I have a
>call into AIG on this question. I will post the answer when I get it.
>
>It isn't appropriate to contact them directly, it would be more appropriate
>to do that thru an agent. They may take your call, and they might not.
>The
>only direct writer is AVEMCO. All other insurance companies utilize
>agencies to handle customer relations.
>
>John "JT" Helms
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Chart |
Bob K has an article on the web at http://209.134.106.21/articles.html
Towards the bottom under "Reference Data" is an article called "Wire Sizing"
that is a reprinted from Sport Aviation, June 1997, Page 56. There are
other charts in his book, and in "Acceptable Methods ....."
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wiring Chart
>
> Does anyone have a wiring chart that gives length of run, current load and
> wire Gauge.
>
> I'd like to have it just to have. You can email attach it to me or if it
is
> easier, fax it to 419-844-0280.
>
> Specifically, I'd like to know what gauge wire to run to wing tip landing
> lights, no more than 5 amps.
>
> Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)strato.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02 |
Happy New Year.
I am build and 8A with 0-320 Lyc and a constant speed prop. Has anyone had
experience with this combination, was wondering if it is still a good idea
to put the battery in back to off set the weight of the CS?
Thanks,
Wil Ramsey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/4/02 7:59:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
alisonandneil(at)msn.com writes:
<< I would
like to see someone test their 6 wings to see if they are actually stronger
and put this speculation to rest.
Neil McLeod
7 QB wings >>
Van's did test the -6 wing. This was covered in the newsletter. The results
were that the wing "broke" at load significantly higher than an ultimate load
of 9 G's at the recommended aerobatic weight. The article did not specify
the number of G's which were required to break the wing, so I don't know if
"signifiantly better than 9 G's" is 9.5, 11, or 50 G's.
The same article noted that Van's was considering using this data to increase
the allowable aerobatic weight for the -6. There was never a follow-up
article. Either Van liked the idea of a larger than standard safety margin,
OR, some other component in the airframe was identified as a limiting factor.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Range.....O2 bottle Size |
I am looking to order an oxygen system from Mountain High. The question is
what size bottle. It is the classic convenience vs. weight dilemma. Do I
go with a 5.8 cu ft that weighs 3.13 lbs or a 8.8 cu ft that weighs 4.5 lbs
or a 14.6 cu ft that weighs 6.25 lbs? The people hour at 10,000 ft is 9.15,
13.88, and 23.02 respectively. If I use a flight duration of 4.5 hours for
my 180 hp constant speed RV6A (is this right???), the smaller unit will last
two of us that flight.
Comments? Suggestions? Data input?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02 |
I have one I am building with the 160hp and C/S prop...with batt. on
firewall...and have had one flying with this combo....no problem here...
Wil Ramsey wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Wil Ramsey
>
> Happy New Year.
>
> I am build and 8A with 0-320 Lyc and a constant speed prop. Has anyone had
> experience with this combination, was wondering if it is still a good idea
> to put the battery in back to off set the weight of the CS?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wil Ramsey
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Rotary Engine Insurance |
I am currently insured by AVEMCO for building only, however I've spoken
with a Canadian Rep. about the "in motion" coverage with a 13B. While he was
unable to give me exact rates, he was very enthusiastic about the rotary,
expressing his personal opinion that it was superior to conventional
aircraft engines and that he would do his best to give a comparable rate.
Of course I haven't got to that point yet, but it was encouraging to hear
a
positive attitude from him.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9 (finishing)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Helms
> Sent: January 4, 2002 11:32 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Engine Insurance
>
>
> If AIG is writing coverage for Chevy engines it is news to me. I have a
> call into AIG on this question. I will post the answer when I get it.
>
> It isn't appropriate to contact them directly, it would be more
> appropriate
> to do that thru an agent. They may take your call, and they
> might not. The
> only direct writer is AVEMCO. All other insurance companies utilize
> agencies to handle customer relations.
>
> John "JT" Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Auto Engine Insurance
>
>
> Dear Listers, We have had AIG Aviation insure our RV6A with a Chevy for
> years. They are very reasonable and fair. I just spoke to a Mr.
> Jim Anderson
> and was assured that the units for the Chevy engines are not a
> problem with
> them. If you have questions please contact him at (480) 699-8350
> They are in
> Scottsdale, Arizona.
> Jess Meyers
> Belted Air Power
> Las Vegas, NV 89102
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
Dear Ross,
At what altitudes are you planning on cruising at a continues basis? If you
plan on using Oxygen at 10,000 ft already, get the biggest bottle they make!
However, local pilots (& some normal people) in Leadville, CO do live there
on the ground above the 10,000ft level without supplemental O2.
Back to your calculations:
1. If the smaller bottle fits you for a 2 x 4.5 people hours , then are you
able to refill it quickly on a long X-country trip with a couple of legs?
2. Why do you plan to fly at altitudes where you need supplemental O2? Is
it that you don't like what you actually see down low?
Seriously, regarding your convenience/dilemma: If you think you need O2,
then make it a portable system with different available bottlesizes
depending on the trip on hand. Costs much more money but saves precious
unneeded weight depending on the trip of course.
Conny
RV-6A (50% done, 90% to go)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Range.....O2 bottle Size
>
> I am looking to order an oxygen system from Mountain High. The question
is
> what size bottle. It is the classic convenience vs. weight dilemma. Do I
> go with a 5.8 cu ft that weighs 3.13 lbs or a 8.8 cu ft that weighs 4.5
lbs
> or a 14.6 cu ft that weighs 6.25 lbs? The people hour at 10,000 ft is
9.15,
> 13.88, and 23.02 respectively. If I use a flight duration of 4.5 hours
for
> my 180 hp constant speed RV6A (is this right???), the smaller unit will
last
> two of us that flight.
>
> Comments? Suggestions? Data input?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
Ross,
I have a 9 cu. ft. bottle in my 8 and find it to be insufficient for two
people especially at 13.5K or so. I am going to change to a 15. The bigger
problem is finding someone to refill it when going cross country.
Regards, Bill RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Range.....O2 bottle Size
>
> I am looking to order an oxygen system from Mountain High. The question
is
> what size bottle. It is the classic convenience vs. weight dilemma. Do I
> go with a 5.8 cu ft that weighs 3.13 lbs or a 8.8 cu ft that weighs 4.5
lbs
> or a 14.6 cu ft that weighs 6.25 lbs? The people hour at 10,000 ft is
9.15,
> 13.88, and 23.02 respectively. If I use a flight duration of 4.5 hours
for
> my 180 hp constant speed RV6A (is this right???), the smaller unit will
last
> two of us that flight.
>
> Comments? Suggestions? Data input?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for anyone using Aero Sport IO 360-B1B |
Hello all-
Anyone out there using Aero Sports' IO-360-B1B?
How's the performance?
Any installation considerations?
Using electronic ignition?
Are using constant speed?
I am considering using this instead of an -A1B6
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Chart |
In a message dated 1/4/2002 12:48:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Does anyone have a wiring chart that gives length of run, current load and
> wire Gauge.
>
> I'd like to have it just to have. You can email attach it to me or if it
> is
> easier, fax it to 419-844-0280.
>
> Specifically, I'd like to know what gauge wire to run to wing tip landing
> lights, no more than 5 amps.
Don-
This info, and so much more, is contained in AC43.13-1B, financed by
taxpayers and worth every penny. Everyone building any kind of aircraft
should have ready access to this document. Printed out, it fills up two
large binders but is probably even more useful in .pdf format, downloadable
from FAA and other websites.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
In a message dated 1/4/2002 3:46:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> I am looking to order an oxygen system from Mountain High. The question is
> what size bottle. It is the classic convenience vs. weight dilemma. Do I
> go with a 5.8 cu ft that weighs 3.13 lbs or a 8.8 cu ft that weighs 4.5 lbs
> or a 14.6 cu ft that weighs 6.25 lbs? The people hour at 10,000 ft is
> 9.15,
> 13.88, and 23.02 respectively. If I use a flight duration of 4.5 hours for
> my 180 hp constant speed RV6A (is this right???), the smaller unit will
> last
> two of us that flight.
>
> Comments? Suggestions? Data input?
Ross-
From experience, I would not recommend getting anything smaller than the one
I have (13 cuft Aerox). I live in CA and am constantly back and forth over
the Sierras. Since many small FBOs don't carry O2, I find it far more
convenient to carry much more than one would use on any single trip.
Further, some places actually send the tank out to get filled, making the two
day turnaround even more of a hassle.
I like the 13 cuft size, as it fits well in the baggage area just behind the
electric flap enclosure, being small in diameter so as not to encroach
excessively into the baggage floor space but still tall enough to protrude
thru a hole in my baggage area cover (for easy in-flight access to the valve
and ports) of my 6A.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02 |
Do a weight and balance. You must do one for the FEDs anyway.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wil Ramsey" <wilr(at)strato.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02
Happy New Year.
I am build and 8A with 0-320 Lyc and a constant speed prop. Has anyone had
experience with this combination, was wondering if it is still a good idea
to put the battery in back to off set the weight of the CS?
Thanks,
Wil Ramsey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance (Long) |
John, what changed? Is my insurance null and void?
Finn
RV-3 Mazda 13-B powered (200 hours+).
John Helms wrote:
>
> Yes it is true, not only will the VanGuard Program not insure your RV-3
> (even though we insure your other RV) but none of the other companies we
> deal with will insure it either.
>
> I believe AVEMCO will.
>
> John Helms
> Branch Manager
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Insurance (Long)
>
>
> Engine type - The program will only insure RV's with the type (i.e.
> Lycoming) and hp (i.e. not an IO 540) that is recommended by Van's
> Aircraft for that type of RV. Automobile engines, turbines, etc can't
> be insured by the program (and I don't believe any company other than
> AVEMCO will write coverage if you have one of these engines)
> ---------------
>
> Hi John,
>
> I'd like to clarify this point. I'm building an RV-3B with a Mazda Rotary
> engine, and was planning to insure it for liability, and perhaps ground
> coverage. Is it true that you won't insure my new plane at all, or is there
> some limit like maybe liability only?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
> RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for anyone using Aero Sport IO 360-B1B |
For convenience sake, can you tell us the difference between the two? And
more specifically, why you are contemplating one vs the other. I have made
this choice already after talking to Bart, but would like to know why you
ask, and I think it would be very nice to let all of the "less knowledgable
listers" out there know what you are talking about for educational purposes.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dag adamson
Subject: RV-List: Looking for anyone using Aero Sport IO 360-B1B
Hello all-
Anyone out there using Aero Sports' IO-360-B1B?
How's the performance?
Any installation considerations?
Using electronic ignition?
Are using constant speed?
I am considering using this instead of an -A1B6
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
I have a portable sytem from Nelson based on the 14 cu.ft. bottle and it
doesn't seem overly intrusive. Plus, you can make several flights before
refilling. Depending on how accessible an affordable refill is that could be
a factor.
Randy Lervold
Vancouver, WA
RV-8, 143.5 hrs.
> I am looking to order an oxygen system from Mountain High. The question
is
> what size bottle. It is the classic convenience vs. weight dilemma. Do I
> go with a 5.8 cu ft that weighs 3.13 lbs or a 8.8 cu ft that weighs 4.5
lbs
> or a 14.6 cu ft that weighs 6.25 lbs? The people hour at 10,000 ft is
9.15,
> 13.88, and 23.02 respectively. If I use a flight duration of 4.5 hours
for
> my 180 hp constant speed RV6A (is this right???), the smaller unit will
last
> two of us that flight.
>
> Comments? Suggestions? Data input?
>
> Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
I have the 9 CU FT tank with canulas. I find that it is fine. It is
good for almost 9 man hours. I have only refilled it once while on the
road. $25. Across the US 5 times and once to Alaska. I do refill my
own after copying Ed Bundy's setup.
If I were to do it again, I would get the 13 cu ft tank like Ed and
Gary V both use.
I do not put the O2 on till after I climb through 9500. I turn it off
on the decent between 7 and 5. I typically will fly at 8500 or higher
on trips if there are not clouds.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
997.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
In a message dated 1/4/2002 10:12:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
> I have the 9 CU FT tank with canulas. I find that it is fine. It is
> good for almost 9 man hours. I have only refilled it once while on the
> road. $25. Across the US 5 times and once to Alaska. I do refill my
> own after copying Ed Bundy's setup.
>
> If I were to do it again, I would get the 13 cu ft tank like Ed and
> Gary V both use.
>
> I do not put the O2 on till after I climb through 9500. I turn it off
> on the descent between 7 and 5. I typically will fly at 8500 or higher
> on trips if there are not clouds.
One other factor that I didn't mention is the GBS (gal by my side) factor.
Her comfort has a huge impact on my short and long term well being (if you
get my drift). I fly fairly often enough that my body readily acclimates to
altitude. Those who don't fly as often or those that are plagued by altitude
headaches (especially when on long day trips) can benefit substantially by
strapping on the O2 well in advance of exceeding altitudes even as low as
8000'. The use of O2 and good noise canceling headsets can help both of you
arrive more refreshed and in a condition to better enjoy the many other
pleasant aspects of your journeys.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Interior painting |
Listers:
I'm at a point that I need to start thinking about painting the inside of my
8,I've been building in an aircraft hanger(heated) so will have to build a
paint booth of sorts. I generally would like to use a light gray semi
gloss color, the inside has been primed with veriprime,just a few more nut
plates to go. Any tips and suggestions's are always welcome.
Chris S #80881
Festus,MO.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers:
If your interested ,pics of my project can be found at eaa32.org. look in
members project's
Chris Santschi #80881
Festus,MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Thanks Kyle, I've only got the last year of RVaitor (and the "21 years of" )
can you tell me which issue has this test.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: -7 Vs. -6
>
> In a message dated 1/4/02 7:59:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> alisonandneil(at)msn.com writes:
>
> << I would
> like to see someone test their 6 wings to see if they are actually
stronger
> and put this speculation to rest.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB wings >>
>
> Van's did test the -6 wing. This was covered in the newsletter. The
results
> were that the wing "broke" at load significantly higher than an ultimate
load
> of 9 G's at the recommended aerobatic weight. The article did not specify
> the number of G's which were required to break the wing, so I don't know
if
> "signifiantly better than 9 G's" is 9.5, 11, or 50 G's.
>
> The same article noted that Van's was considering using this data to
increase
> the allowable aerobatic weight for the -6. There was never a follow-up
> article. Either Van liked the idea of a larger than standard safety
margin,
> OR, some other component in the airframe was identified as a limiting
factor.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/5/02 8:31:12 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bedrock(at)theriver.com writes:
<< Thanks Kyle, I've only got the last year of RVaitor (and the "21 years of"
)
can you tell me which issue has this test.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: -7 Vs. -6
>
> In a message dated 1/4/02 7:59:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> alisonandneil(at)msn.com writes:
>
> << I would
> like to see someone test their 6 wings to see if they are actually
stronger
> and put this speculation to rest.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB wings >>
>
> Van's did test the -6 wing. This was covered in the newsletter. The
results
> were that the wing "broke" at load significantly higher than an ultimate
load
> of 9 G's at the recommended aerobatic weight. The article did not specify
> the number of G's which were required to break the wing, so I don't know
if
> "signifiantly better than 9 G's" is 9.5, 11, or 50 G's.
>
> The same article noted that Van's was considering using this data to
increase
> the allowable aerobatic weight for the -6. There was never a follow-up
> article. Either Van liked the idea of a larger than standard safety
margin,
> OR, some other component in the airframe was identified as a limiting
factor.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 >>
Neil,
I have no idea. I'm guessing it was 5-6 years ago.
Kyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary Engine Insurance |
Hi Todd,
I fly a 13B powered RV-6A and AVEMCO has been insuring me since 1997. Not
cheap, but I have had no problem with renewals. I suspect that once you get
past X hours, the infant mortality type problems are past you and so viewed
by the insurance companies. I have heard that some will ensure you once you
get past 100 hours.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
Subject: RV-List: Rotary Engine Insurance
>
> I am currently insured by AVEMCO for building only, however I've
spoken
> with a Canadian Rep. about the "in motion" coverage with a 13B. While he
was
> unable to give me exact rates, he was very enthusiastic about the rotary,
> expressing his personal opinion that it was superior to conventional
> aircraft engines and that he would do his best to give a comparable rate.
> Of course I haven't got to that point yet, but it was encouraging
to hear a
> positive attitude from him.
> S. Todd Bartrim
> 13B RV-9 (finishing)
> C-FSTB (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior painting |
Chris, I used a Dupont product called Chroma One Single Stage Acrylic
Urethane in light neutral Part #LSO33G which is a light gray almost white.
While the paint is not semi-gloss it doesn't seem to be a problem
with glare as a Glasair Friend of mine has had his plane done and flying for
3 years. I will use a slightly darker gray on my panel just for a contrast
in the interior.
Use a Hobby Air System or similar as these newer durable Acrylic
Urethane paints are not good for the lungs.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Interior painting
>
> Listers:
>
> I'm at a point that I need to start thinking about painting the inside of
my
> 8,I've been building in an aircraft hanger(heated) so will have to build a
> paint booth of sorts. I generally would like to use a light gray semi
> gloss color, the inside has been primed with veriprime,just a few more nut
> plates to go. Any tips and suggestions's are always welcome.
> Chris S #80881
> Festus,MO.
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior painting |
Chris, I second Tom & Cathys post, "Casper" has the same paint in a light beige
gloss with no flattening agent used. The paint is very tough and easy to spray.
On rare occasions I get some glare on the wind shield, but not enough to be a
problem. If I did it again I would use some flattening agent.
Garry "Casper"
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> Chris, I used a Dupont product called Chroma One Single Stage Acrylic
> Urethane in light neutral Part #LSO33G which is a light gray almost white.
> While the paint is not semi-gloss it doesn't seem to be a problem
> with glare as a Glasair Friend of mine has had his plane done and flying for
> 3 years. I will use a slightly darker gray on my panel just for a contrast
> in the interior.
> Use a Hobby Air System or similar as these newer durable Acrylic
> Urethane paints are not good for the lungs.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Interior painting
>
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > I'm at a point that I need to start thinking about painting the inside of
> my
> > 8,I've been building in an aircraft hanger(heated) so will have to build a
> > paint booth of sorts. I generally would like to use a light gray semi
> > gloss color, the inside has been primed with veriprime,just a few more nut
> > plates to go. Any tips and suggestions's are always welcome.
> > Chris S #80881
> > Festus,MO.
> >
> > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Jantzi" <terry(at)iwantarocket.com> |
| Subject: | after hours shenanigans |
Listers and fellow builders,
Ever wonder what happens in your shop after you leave? I know that little
elves don't come out and pick up where you leave off. However, I discovered
that sometimes other stuff goes on. Checkout my site
http://www.iwantarocket.com and click the Mad Max meets Monica link.
Seriously, my son Joel and I had some fun a couple of weeks ago while I was
looking for excuses not to work on my Rocket. I think his motives were to
get me dressed up in a leather flying helmet, a skin tight flight suit,
sitting in my car with my arm around a blow up doll (no that really isn't
Max driving!).
I'm accepting any reasonable likeness of Mad Max to post on the web site.
The first picture is my little nephew Matthew.
Terry Jantzi
F1 Rocket slowbuild
Kitchener ON
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-6 wing test was described in the June 1996 issue if RVator.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
The pink Oxymizer canulas can extended your range considerably. I don't have
to fill the cylinder nearly as much as I used to. Be sure to check the test
date on your cylinder. They can't (shouldn't) be filled if they haven't been
hydrostatically tested in 5 years. Found out the hard way on a trip. They
can be tested reasonably at fire extinguisher filling/repair shops.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Oakland, Ca
>
> >
> I have the 9 CU FT tank with canulas. I find that it is fine. It is
> good for almost 9 man hours. I have only refilled it once while on the
> road. $25. Across the US 5 times and once to Alaska. I do refill my
> own after copying Ed Bundy's setup.
>
> If I were to do it again, I would get the 13 cu ft tank like Ed and
> Gary V both use.
>
> I do not put the O2 on till after I climb through 9500. I turn it off
> on the decent between 7 and 5. I typically will fly at 8500 or higher
> on trips if there are not clouds.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 997.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Cable Air Fair Pictures |
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/images/cable/
I haven't put together a web page yet, I just threw the pictures into that
directory.
It was a pretty cool day at the Cable Air Fair today, despite there only
being 5 RVs there. 8
) I did get to meet Gary Sobek though (nice to meet
you) and a handful of Chapter 448 builders (thanks for showing me around the
hangar).
Man, you don't get treated well when you fly in with a Mooney...I gotta
finish this stupid RV so I can get front-row parking! They made me tie the
Mooney down all the way up on the nw corner of the field. Oh, well. I'm
just a spam can weenie I guess. 8
)
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
BlankNow that we have seen a 172 bounce off a skyscrapper with no damage
maybe the FAA will leave us alone. (see the news for Tampa)
Dennis and Fran, in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
flamini2 wrote:
>
>
> BlankNow that we have seen a 172 bounce off a skyscrapper with no damage
> maybe the FAA will leave us alone. (see the news for Tampa)
> Dennis and Fran, in Chicago
>
CNN site:
http://www.cnn.com/2002/US/01/05/tampa.crash/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
i just saw a 172 sticking out of the Bank of America building in downtown
Tampa, about the 20th floor. the plane is registered to St. Pete / Clearwater
airport and they say it was a student pilot 15 years old.. right now the
firemen are putting out the fire and the tail is sticking out of the
building. the cabin looks to bad off to survive. the wing is on the road next
to the building. it appears that the coast guard tried to protect downtown,
but ended up pushing the student into the building. i talked to my buddy paul
at peter o knight, where the plane was circling a few times, but never
landed. peter o knight has some right hand runways and some left hand runways
and could have probably confussed him.
the faa has already called peter o knight to find out if he picked up some
fuel there.
thats all i know right now.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Looking for anyone using Aero Sport IO 360-B1B |
Per some feedback-
The reason for some opinions:
(1)
I had originally planned on obtaining a 200 HP vs. 180
HP engine. It is my understanding that the A1B6 is
200HP and the -b1b 180 HP. The underlying question is
are you happy with 180 HP vs. 200hp? Do you miss the
power?
Using an Aero Sport vs. a Lycoming engine - Is it as
or more reliable? Did this effect your insurance?
The signoff requirements 40 hours vs. 25 hours for a
non-cert engine?
(2)
Installation issues. (A)It is my understanding that
the 200HP engines require a special "snorkel" in the
cowling that requires some additional effort to make
it fit properly. Is this the case with B1B? (I don't
think so - but not sure.)
(3)
Electronic ignition. Did you implement dual electronic
ignitions or one mag one electronic ignition. If you
go dual, then I assume that you need to have a backup
battery system?
(3)
Constant speed. Does it make a big difference in
performance vs. say a Sens-prop? Prop governor - does
it fit on the front or rear of the engine? I need to
know this to order the correct finish kit. (C) Is
there anything else that I should consider or be
prepared for??
(4) Condsidering B1B over the A1B6. I am considering
the cost savings and better lead times of the B1B over
over the A1B6. Is this too short sighted?
Hope these thoughts are helpful.
Any input would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks.
Dag
--- dag adamson wrote:
> Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 18:06:38 -0800 (PST)
> From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Looking for anyone using Aero Sport IO
> 360-B1B
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Hello all-
>
> Anyone out there using Aero Sports' IO-360-B1B?
>
> How's the performance?
>
> Any installation considerations?
>
> Using electronic ignition?
>
> Are using constant speed?
>
> I am considering using this instead of an -A1B6
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
> __________________________________________________
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim hurd" <hurd(at)gsinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Acro Wear & Tear |
What components, specifically, on the aircraft are affected by light (no
negative-G) aerobatics? Assuming I keep the oil in the sump, does the
change in engine compartment airflow in a loop, f'rinstance, result in
enough engine temperature variation to worry about? What about my
constant speed prop; is it soaking up any unnessary stress in a 3-G
pull? Assuming I'm not operating oversquare, keeping airspeed below
redline, G's in the envelope and making smooth throttle application,
what if anything, is getting significantly worn out faster than in level
flight?
An RV is way too much fun to fly like a Cherokee, but since I really
baby this bird in every other way, I thought I would check.
Jim 0360/CS flying 160 hours San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior painting |
Chris
I have been painting my interior with DUTCH BOY APPLIANCE EPOXY that I get
at K-MART. This is a rattle can paint, but it is high quality paint that goes
on and flows out real nice. The color I am using is almond.
I live in Glen Carbon, ILL. just across the river from ST.Louis. If you
want to come by and take a look give me a call at 618-288-2806.
Jerry (working on panel) RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Divan" <mikedivan(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Range.....O2 bottle Size |
Yes they are. Try any medical supply place. There are probably some on
line. People with COPD use them all the time.
Thanks.
Mike Divan
mdivan(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | planewizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Ego's and another flying story |
Paul:
With such an experience, are you really sure you want to sell your RV?
Dave P
"Paul Besing" wrote:
>Last week I took my 4 year old daughter Ashley flying in the afternoon. It
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | F-699 screw size |
Drawing 46 shows the F-699 bracket which reinforces the floor of the
6/6A by anchoring the angle stiffeners of the floor skin to one of the
AN3 main spar bolts. It shows 2 screws going thru the bracket and the
floor angle, but it doesn't call out the screw size. I'm guessing
they're number 8. Does any one recall?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Acro Wear & Tear |
In a message dated 1/5/2002 3:38:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hurd(at)gsinternet.net writes:
> What components, specifically, on the aircraft are affected by light (no
> negative-G) aerobatics? Assuming I keep the oil in the sump, does the
> change in engine compartment airflow in a loop, f'rinstance, result in
> enough engine temperature variation to worry about?
This minor disruption in normal cooling air would be of far too short a
duration to be of any significance and is actually less of an issue than
those high deck angle climb outs we do all the time (just kidding). I would
think that when the time you are actually upside down approaches 5-10% of
your total engine time, then maybe you are shortening your TBO.
What about my > constant speed prop; is it soaking up any unnecessary stress
> in a 3- G pull? Assuming I'm not operating oversquare,
The constant gyroscopic forces acting on a prop and engine crank flange are
more real. The latest AD on the Hartzell compact hub props implies that some
hubs are cracking as a result of additional acrobatic forces. The admonition
not to operate oversquare is a myth and not really applicable to engines
other than radials. Just avoid continuous operation in any prohibited rpm
range for your prop and engine combination.
keeping airspeed below > redline, G's in the envelope and making smooth
> throttle application,
> what if anything, is getting significantly worn out faster than in level
> flight?
Just execute your acro and landings as smoothly as you are able, without
excessive yanking and do regular condition inspections on all of the stress
points. Take comfort in the fact that there are many pilots out there
working these great planes far harder than you are. They are the canaries in
the mine (and definitely no one's daisies).
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
> Drawing 46 shows the F-699 bracket which reinforces the floor
> of the 6/6A by anchoring the angle stiffeners of the floor skin to
> one of the AN3 main spar bolts. It shows 2 screws going thru
> the bracket and the floor angle, but it doesn't call out the screw
> size. I'm guessing they're number 8. Does any one recall?
First of all, congratulations! A lot of people seem to miss this important
detail which is pretty well hidden on the plans. They leave the aft end of
the floor stiffeners un-tued in to the spar, which I'd guess contributes to
the "smoking belly rivet" phenomenon.
Now, did you know that the two pieces that make up the sides of the
fuel-selector console are supposed to nest just inside the *inner* two floor
angles, and the angles bolted to them, to tie those two angles into the
spar? That one's not even ON the plans.
As for your question -- before I did mine I looked at a lot of planes and
AN-3 bolts/nuts seemed to be what people were using, so that's what I did.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
> Drawing 46 shows the F-699 bracket which reinforces the floor of the
> 6/6A by anchoring the angle stiffeners of the floor skin to one of the
> AN3 main spar bolts. It shows 2 screws going thru the bracket and the
> floor angle, but it doesn't call out the screw size. I'm guessing
> they're number 8. Does any one recall?
>
Randall gave you some good advice on the fuel selector support and the floor
supports. Many do not connect the selector to the floor; but, I did. I
used the AN3, throughout.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Listers:
I am ready to drill my ribs to the front and rear spar on my RV8 wings. I noticed
that the holes in the three most inboard rib flanges do not line up with the
holes in the rear spar( where the spar reinforcement plate is). Has anyone run
into this problem? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Acro Wear & Tear |
Jim,
I recently finished an annual inspection on an RV-4 with 900 hrs on it.
Quite a few hrs of acro time included, as this RV is owned by a former air
show pilot. The engine mounts were sagging and were replaced with the acro
type mounts Van's sells. The engine moves around signifcantly when pulling
g's so look for wear & chafe that could result from this. I found a ground
wire that could chafe on the positive stud of the starter on this -4. The
cowl hinges were getting very loose and will need attention at some point.
But other than that, the RV was in good shape. These are very well designed
airplanes.
Rick Caldwell A&P
-6 301 hrs & undergoing my annual
>From: "jim hurd" <hurd(at)gsinternet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Acro Wear & Tear
>Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:37:12 -0600
>
>
>What components, specifically, on the aircraft are affected by light (no
>negative-G) aerobatics? Assuming I keep the oil in the sump, does the
>change in engine compartment airflow in a loop, f'rinstance, result in
>enough engine temperature variation to worry about? What about my
>constant speed prop; is it soaking up any unnessary stress in a 3-G
>pull? Assuming I'm not operating oversquare, keeping airspeed below
>redline, G's in the envelope and making smooth throttle application,
>what if anything, is getting significantly worn out faster than in level
>flight?
>
>An RV is way too much fun to fly like a Cherokee, but since I really
>baby this bird in every other way, I thought I would check.
>
>Jim 0360/CS flying 160 hours San Antonio
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs 8A Range Performance Question |
> Looking at the performance page on Van's website (
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm ) , it shows that the
> RV-8A range is dramatically lower than a similarly equipped -8.
I don't know any of the details of the comparison, but everything else
equal, the difference is probably at most a few knots, if any. My 6A has
two boarding steps, two bent whip antennae, GPS antenna, external wingtip
strobes/lights. In other words, it has some junk hanging out in the breeze,
and my O360 C/S pulls it at 181 knots TAS at 7500', or about 75%. No one
would cruise at this setting, I only use it for comparison purposes. It will
easily exceed redline indicated airspeed at lower altitudes in level flight.
The drag of an unfaired tailwheel might be more than the faired nose gear, I
don't know. I suspect that how straight one builds the plane is quite
important. It is remarkably difficult to get really accurate speed
comparisons with all other variables held constant.
Get the configuration you want, I would not factor in speed (which
translates to fuel burn eventually). The archives are busting with
comparisons that are mostly not helpful.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 73 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ego Check (Was RV Stories) |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 1/5/02 00:50, Stein Bruch at stein(at)steinair.com wrote:
>
> After reading some flaming comments from a few over inflated ego's, I need
> to take just a second and chime in. These comments are only directed at the
> few people who think that by re-affirming their greatness, someone will
> actually care. Our of respect for EVERYONE who is building an RV or any
> airplane for that matter, I sometime's keep in mind the following:
>
> No matter how fast your homebuilt is, There is always one faster (Unless you
> have an x-15).
> No matter how much money you have, there is always someone richer (unless
> you're Bill Gates).
> No matter how smart you think you are, there is always someone smarter
> (unless you're Einstein).
> No matter how good of a pilot you profess to be, there is always someone
> better. (Unless you're Al Haines, Bob Hoover, etc...).
>
> So spare everyone here the insults, our blood's all the same color. Just
> because you may have landed a 747 at Kai-Tak, or an F-14 on a carrier does
> not make you a super hero or any more of a person than the guy flying mail
> to Nome Alaska in his cub.
>
> Here's the relavance. When someone posts a story about their escapades in
> an RV, don't flame them just because you think it's not good enough for you.
> There are those of us here that haven't had the opportunity to fly our
> planes anywhere yet, and it's nice to see someone having fun in their RV and
> then reading about it. I appreciate much of the information on this list,
> and try not to act like I'm anything above ordinary. I'm just another guy
> trying to put together a plane. I'm not rich, not super smart, my plane
> won't be the fastest, and lord know's I'm not the world's best pilot. I'm
> just hoping to have a nice plane that I can one day zoon around the country
> in.
>
> Have a great weekend and enjoy your flights, wherever they may take you
> (Mine to the garage).
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, Plumbing the stupid boost pump/filter/selector-valve/fuel
> injection nightmare!
Well Put.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
Tom,
As I recall (plans not in front of me), it doesn't reall matter. I put in
#8s.
Keith
RV-6 (manly) Finish (humbling)
Denver
----- Original Message -----
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-699 screw size
>
> Drawing 46 shows the F-699 bracket which reinforces the floor of the
> 6/6A by anchoring the angle stiffeners of the floor skin to one of the
> AN3 main spar bolts. It shows 2 screws going thru the bracket and the
> floor angle, but it doesn't call out the screw size. I'm guessing
> they're number 8. Does any one recall?
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vs 8A Range Performance Question |
>
>
>I just started my 8? empennage kit. I've learned a lot so far and the
>list is great. I'm proud to be a new part of the RV community and I
>hope that someday I can be able to answer a few questions instead of
>generating them!
>
>But for now, here's the question:
>
>Looking at the performance page on Van's website (
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm ) , it shows that the
>RV-8A range is dramatically lower than a similarly equipped -8. I
>computed the fuel flow and noticed that the -8A would have about %11
>higher fuel flow at 55% power than the 8. (See table below). Does this
>make sense? My thought is the same engine should have the same fuel
>flow at the same power setting, regardless of the airplane it is in ...
>
>Example: 55% Power, IO-360 (200 hp), Solo weight
>
> Range (mi) Speed (mph) Duration 42 gal (hrs) Fuel
>flow (gph)
>RV-8 1000 189 5.29 7.94
>RV-8A 890 187 4.76 8.82
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Mike Veth
>RV-8? Empennage
>Dayton, OH
>
The short answer is that the performance of the RV-8 and the -8A
should be very similiar, given the same engine, prop, weight, CG,
build quality, etc.
The CAFE foundation flight tested Van's RV-8A prototype a few years
ago (it was published in Sport Aviation). The report is available on
the web at:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/RV-8A%20APR.pdf
Their testing showed a max speed of 220 mph and max rate of climb of
about 2200 fpm (both numbers at gross weight). It's a bit hard to
figure out percent power from their data without digging deep into
the power charts, but at 8000 ft, 2300 rpm and full throttle, they
got a TAS of 188 mph at 8.0 gph.
Their stall speeds were lower than the ones Van claims, but CAFE did
the stalls with some power on, which is non-standard.
My take on this report is that they equaled or beat Van's numbers for
the RV-8 (within the normal tolerances for this sort of flight
testing).
They did make some negative comments about longitudinal stablity at
low speed with flaps extended, but they used a very non-standard way
to do those tests, so I don't think we can draw any conclusions from
their data.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 01/06/2002 10:08:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com writes:
> Coverting engine and trying to make up my mind wheteher or not to keep the
> injection or to go for carburetor.
> I'm put off by previous experiences with IO-360 on PA28R, in particular the
> troublesome start with a hot engine.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcel
>
Must be a Lycoming thing.
Hot starts are easier than cold starts on my fuel injected engine.
I just recently removed the mixture lever from the cockpit. The automatic
altitude compensation is mechanical, and certified in Europe. I sure hope it
works over here. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Alex Peterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Alex Peterson
Subject: VM11120A Vacuum switch
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/alexpeterson@usjet.net.01.06.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
I didn't bother with bolts or screws and simply went with AN 470-4 rivets of
suitable length. Guess they won't be removable but careful fitting means the
spar bolts seem to go in OK - hopefully just once more at the airport is all
that is needed.
Not sure if this is right but I made up four F-699s to tie the inner (as
well as outer) floor reinforcement angles to the spar. The inner ones sit on
the front face the spar splice plates and a 3/8" spar bolt passes through
them. This (4 vs 2 F699s) is not shown well on the plans at all, so far as I
can see.
As far as fuel selector mounting goes, sect E-E at upper left of dwg #32
shows the F-683B pieces (that support the F-683 fuel selector bracket) being
tied to the spar by four 3/8" spar bolts that also pass through the splice
plates (third one out from the centre line in four places). I drilled my
F-683Bs when I had the spar and splice plates in place to do the landing
gear mounts (on a -6A).
Just no way that the F-683Bs in my kit would reach the floor angles to tie
in there and still end up with the F-683 flush with the bottom of the seat
pans. This means that the F-683 assembly has to bolt on when the wings are
permanently installed - but the fuel selector fittings won't allow the bolts
through into the splice plates from the front - which means the fuel
selector has to come off the F-683 to put the wings on - which means the
three fuels lines have to remain off and then get threaded through the
grommeted holes in the F-683Bs later on. For these reasons some way of
mounting the completed F-683 assembly with the fuel selector and lines in
place and avoiding the spar bolts entirely might be a better idea. IOW, make
the F-683 removable without taking the wings off.
This is just one example of the assembly and maintenance headaches that are
inherent in parts of the RV-6 design and why pipedreams of making the RV-6 a
production aircraft are just that. Not many production line workers or field
mechanics would put up with this sort of thing on a regular basis whereas we
patient amateurs seem willing to do so, once.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Canada
RV-3 C-FIZM (flying)
RV-6A C-???? (finish kit)
Just heading off to the shop to wrestle some more with getting the aft spar
splice plates into place. Didn't make the cutouts in the seat ribs to
accommodate the splice plates quite big enough you see. Also the innermost
seat rib lines up with one of the spar bolts so must cut away yet more of
the seat rib to accommodate the bolt. Won't be using a socket wrench here,
that's for sure. Just another ease of maintenance feature of the RV-6. Cynic
mode now disengaged !
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-699 screw size
>
> > Drawing 46 shows the F-699 bracket which reinforces the floor
> > of the 6/6A by anchoring the angle stiffeners of the floor skin to
> > one of the AN3 main spar bolts. It shows 2 screws going thru
> > the bracket and the floor angle, but it doesn't call out the screw
> > size. I'm guessing they're number 8. Does any one recall?
>
> First of all, congratulations! A lot of people seem to miss this important
> detail which is pretty well hidden on the plans. They leave the aft end of
> the floor stiffeners un-tued in to the spar, which I'd guess contributes
to
> the "smoking belly rivet" phenomenon.
>
> Now, did you know that the two pieces that make up the sides of the
> fuel-selector console are supposed to nest just inside the *inner* two
floor
> angles, and the angles bolted to them, to tie those two angles into the
> spar? That one's not even ON the plans.
>
> As for your question -- before I did mine I looked at a lot of planes and
> AN-3 bolts/nuts seemed to be what people were using, so that's what I did.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
A picture of my fuel selector/floor angle installation is at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/interior.html#fuelseystem
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KING TRANDSPONDER AGIN |
Listers
Could you tell me if this is right for the pin layout on my King
Transponder.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
A B C D E F H J K L M N
I made a call to an avionics friend and he said KING does not use the
letter G & I on the bottom row of the pins. This is a KING KT-76A
trandsponder.
Thanks
Jerry (confused on pin layout)
Glen Carbon, ILL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | CNN vote on GA restrictions |
>>>>
CNN is running a online vote. Should there be more
restrictions on
small aircraft? Does not look good for aviation if we go by
that vote.
The yes vote is way ahead.
http://www.cnn.com/
About half wasy down on right side under QUICK VOTE.
>>>>
Just picked this up off RAH (posted by one of our RV
Listers)
________________________________________________________________________________
i asked about heat last time. after looking where the heat muf. i, it's on
the front cyl. that exhaust pipe looks a lot cooler than the rear. should it
be on the rear clyinder? or could it be that the intake hole for the fresh
air is too large.
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | More Cable Pictures (Sunday) |
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/images/cable/
I just dumped about 50 new pictures into that directory. I haven't messed
with lighting or sharpening yet, and the new ones are all named "dscf*". I
got a few good ones of the RVs that showed up (thanks for more showing up on
Sunday!), but I branched out and got some crappy pix of some other planes
(ok, they can't *ALL* be RVs after all...). Most of them are terrible shots
while standing just behind the runway threshold. For what they're worth...
Thanks to the RV builders of Chapter 448 for talking to me yet again. And
special thanks to the RV pilots who brought their finished planes out, flew
formation, fly-bys, and risked certain demise from the RC planes and that
freakish RC helicopter that was sure to take out everything in its path if
it went even slightly awry.
On a lighter note, I did spend a while talking to a guy building a Europa
there at the 448 hangar. He claimed he could outrun an RV at altitude with
his Rotax-powered Europa. What EVER!!! 8
)
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CNN vote on GA restrictions |
Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
> >>>>
> CNN is running a online vote. Should there be more
> restrictions on
> small aircraft? Does not look good for aviation if we go by
> that vote.
> The yes vote is way ahead.
>
> http://www.cnn.com/
>
> About half wasy down on right side under QUICK VOTE.
> >>>>
> Just picked this up off RAH (posted by one of our RV
> Listers)
I went there to vote no but after reading it I found that they are not asking for
more restrictions on small aircraft, they are asking is should there be more
restrictions on access to planes? That is altogether different!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Al,
Do none of the holes line up or just one per rib. I seem to recall that
there were a few ribs where I ended up having to drill I believe one hole
per rib. There also were a couple areas where holes had to be drilled at
the main spar to the ribs and the plans said to ignore the already existing
holes in the flange, near the tie down assembly as I recall.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs
>
> Listers:
> I am ready to drill my ribs to the front and rear spar on my RV8 wings. I> noticed
that the holes in the three most inboard rib flanges do not line> up with
the holes in the rear spar( where the spar reinforcement plate i> s). Has
anyone run into this problem? Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
Ok guys, I'm about to start working on my ribs and I was going to order
the wiring conduit, but was looking at the basic wiring kit. Is the kit
the way to go, good investment? I am putting the Duckworks landing
lights in each wing. What about the Wire harness what is that? For the
engine compartment?
Next what about a flop tube is everyone putting one in or not? I do plan
on doing loops and rolls.
Is there anything else coming up that I need to concider? I am already
putting in the capacitive type senders.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANDSPONDER AGIN |
You are correct.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jsd41(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: KING TRANDSPONDER AGIN
>
> Listers
> Could you tell me if this is right for the pin layout on my King
> Transponder.
>
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
> A B C D E F H J K L M N
>
> I made a call to an avionics friend and he said KING does not use the
> letter G & I on the bottom row of the pins. This is a KING KT-76A
> trandsponder.
>
> Thanks
> Jerry (confused on pin layout)
> Glen Carbon, ILL
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
In my opinion, do it yourself. Buy lots of wire and connectors and get
every strand the right length, size, etc. As soon as you change something
with Van's wiring harness, you are creating more work for yourself. Get a
good set of ratcheting crimpers, and 100 feet of various wire, connectors,
etc and go to town with it.
You will no doubt order more wire and connectors along the way, unless you
just order way too much of everything from the start.
Flop tube is not needed for loops and rolls. Only extended times upside
down, and then you will need an injected engine or throttle body. My vote
is to skip it. I did, and haven't needed it yet. It is alot more work to
put the flop tubes in and is only needed for serious negative acro.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Bobby Hester
To: RV-List ; RV7and7A
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 7:45 PM
Subject: [RV7and7A] Wiring Kit?
Ok guys, I'm about to start working on my ribs and I was going to order
the wiring conduit, but was looking at the basic wiring kit. Is the kit
the way to go, good investment? I am putting the Duckworks landing
lights in each wing. What about the Wire harness what is that? For the
engine compartment?
Next what about a flop tube is everyone putting one in or not? I do plan
on doing loops and rolls.
Is there anything else coming up that I need to concider? I am already
putting in the capacitive type senders.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Bobby,
I bought the Van's basic wiring kit and it's one of the few things I should
not have. Since my plane is IFR, It didn't have near enough wire, and when
you price the wire out by the foot, you are getting raped by Van's. I ended
up buying some 500' spools of 18,20,22 AWG wire for less than $.07/foot.
Regarding Conduit, Go to your local Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes and buy
some pieces of PVC water pipe for a couple of bucks. It works great! If
you don't want to do that, I have about 30 feet of the spaghetti conduit
from Van's which I'll give you for shipping!
Flop Tubes. Depends on what you are doing with engines. I put one in the
right wing, but the flop tube alone won't ensure inverted flight. You
probably already know this, so don't take it as an insult. You will still
need an injected engine and the Christen Inverted Oil system. I just posted
some pics on my website of my Christen Install so you can see how much room
it takes up on the firewall.
Happy Building,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, MN
Still Finishing!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Subject: RV-List: Wiring Kit?
Ok guys, I'm about to start working on my ribs and I was going to order
the wiring conduit, but was looking at the basic wiring kit. Is the kit
the way to go, good investment? I am putting the Duckworks landing
lights in each wing. What about the Wire harness what is that? For the
engine compartment?
Next what about a flop tube is everyone putting one in or not? I do plan
on doing loops and rolls.
Is there anything else coming up that I need to concider? I am already
putting in the capacitive type senders.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6 Fuselage Jig? |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
Anyone in Ohio have an RV 6 fuselage jig that I could borrow for about a
year?
Joe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANSPONDER AGAIN |
In a message dated 1/6/2002 3:39:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, Jsd41(at)aol.com
writes:
> Could you tell me if this is right for the pin layout on my King
> Transponder.
>
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
> A B C D E F H J K L M N
>
> I made a call to an avionics friend and he said KING does not use the
> letter G & I on the bottom row of the pins. This is a KING KT-76A
> transponder.
That's correct as viewed from the REAR of the tray
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Good landings John!! What a way to show us newcomers and builders that the
RV IS a great plane.
I sure like to see an RV user list concerned with maintenance, interesting
places to fly and trip reports only. Now I can say this since my INDIAN
SUMMER II (N56LK) IS flying!
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 26.9 tach hrs || >> just completed test
flight with all 3 wheel pans and gear leg fairings >>>whowww, this bird
flies: 176 knts @ 7000"
PS. Will give you a call when I plan to land in Salida.
DO NOT ARCHIEVE
-----Original Message-----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Date: Saturday, January 05, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: 600 !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
So, where is Mtn High? Website? Telephone No?
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Brown <bkbrown(at)fiberpipe.net>
Date: Friday, January 04, 2002 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Range.....O2 bottle Size
>
>I visited with Mtn High and ended up buying an aluminum cylinder from them
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Range.....O2 bottle Size |
>
>So, where is Mtn High? Website? Telephone No?
http://www.mtn-high.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CNN Poll re GA |
Right on Matt.. What do you think a nut case in a 80,000 LB gas tanker or
semi could do??? It is not only airplanes. Almost all the cars on the road
weigh well more than that airplane however they could not get that high.
Never the less they can do a lot of damage in the hands of a unstable person.
I shutter to think of the damage a unstable person could do with a car or
truck. I am against more intrusion by the Washington DC however we do need
some common sense in curtailing the nut cases in this world.
Karl Rigdon
Hazel Green, WI
BC12D-1 N44257
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heat |
Dan;
Wherever you put it, seal all the air leaks in the
cockpit and around the canopy as best you can too. All
the heat in the world can't overcome -10C air leaks. I
tried the bedspring wrapped around the exhaust pipe
trick inside the muff and improved my heat about 25%.
Warm regards.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> i asked about heat last time. after looking where
> the heat muf. i, it's on
> the front cyl. that exhaust pipe looks a lot cooler
> than the rear. should it
> be on the rear clyinder? or could it be that the
> intake hole for the fresh
> air is too large.
>
> dan carley
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Fixing Plastic Cracks |
Found an inch and 1/4 long crack in my canopy yesterday even though the
airplane still hasn't left the garage. Stopped drilled it, and was
wondering if I can fill the hole with any clear substance without
reintroducing the original stress that caused the crack. Have some
Weld-on 3, but that just melts the plastic and I would think might cause
more stress cracks. Any plastic experts out there?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Paul & Victoria back home |
Listers,
Just in.........long, if not interested please delete........do not
archive
Hello and Happy New Year to all! I haven't had a chance to check in
since New Year's Night on Tuesday, and we are now home safe Sunday
night...here's where I left off earlier this week...
We arrived to Greenville, SC about 9pm New Year's Day, and our friends
the List's told us that a winter storm was moving into the area
Wednesday :-( Not wanting to gamble with weather, we took off for
Huntsville, AL leaving under 8K overcast Wednesday morning. Enroute, we
flew over a 'postcard' airport located in the SE corner of the Tennessee
Blue Ridge Mountains. We decided to stop and look around Martin
Campbell Airport (1A3) for a bit, and it turns out this is the home of
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com WHAT AN AVIONICS SYSTEM! We then
continued on towards Huntsville landing at a grass strip airport nearer
our friends house named, are you ready...Moontown (3M5)! The sun was
shining as we were far enough west to miss the snow storm that moved
into the southeastern USA later that day (did you see all the snow
Atlanta got?!?) Thursday, we spent the day visiting and also toured
nearby Cathedral Caverns. We'd only been to the caverns at Lake Shasta,
CA which paled compared to the Cathedral Caverns! Danny, the tour
guide, had the heaviest accent we'd ever heard, and he reminded us that
he spoke 'Southeastern Alabama...not English' :-) C'mon....yont-too?
Bama English! Friday, we continued on towards home and flew back to
Grove, OK for a night with the Trippensees, about 3 hours flight time.
After helping with some furniture moving and allowing for the overcast
to lift, we flew 30 minutes to Cleveland, OK (not far from Tulsa) to
stay with my adopted stepdad Saturday night, and he treated us to a
great BBQ meal in Tulsa at Rosie's. This morning (Sunday), we took off
at 8:30am Pacific time and fueled at Borger, TX (2 hrs) and again at St.
Johns, AZ (2.5 hrs). A short 30 minute flight has us eating a late
lunch (~2pm) at Payson, AZ (PAN) near Sedona. We took off about 3pm,
and we arrived home to Rosamond 3 hours later after watching a very
'fiery' sunset that was magenta in color. It was sure nice crossing the
Colorado River and seeing some REAL mountains and feeling right at home
flying over them :-) We are finding the USA is 'mighty' flat once you
pass Las Vegas, NM and the Rockies eastbound! Total trip time was spent
over 18 days putting ~55 hours on the hobbs (826TT), and the plane ran
perfectly! Our only weather delays consisted of taking off hours (not
days) either side of our planned departures. We have now visited
friends in 37 states :-) We overflew 9 other states but did not get the
chance to stop so we'll catch those another time! We can't say it
enough but our RV is the best thing going on in our life now! Time will
pass regardless so make sure you spend it getting your RV built! We'll
be looking for you on the ramp so keep poundin' them rivets! Paul &
Victoria
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Plastic Cracks |
>
>Found an inch and 1/4 long crack in my canopy yesterday even though the
>airplane still hasn't left the garage. Stopped drilled it, and was
>wondering if I can fill the hole with any clear substance without
>reintroducing the original stress that caused the crack. Have some
>Weld-on 3, but that just melts the plastic and I would think might cause
>more stress cracks. Any plastic experts out there?
>
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 N88MJ cowling
>
Noel Drew posted some excellent info on fixing canopy cracks back in
Jan. 2001. Search the archives for "RV-4 canopy crack" (without the
quotes). It was one of the real "keeper" messages that I saved.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CNN Poll re GA |
Jerry
I agree. I personally believe that our government (All levels) are the
root of the problem. For starters there inability or complete incompetence in
enforcing our immigration laws. At our Venice airport we have one or two
bubble gum machines observing the legal pilots with airplanes and hangers,
However the entrances that allowed the people who did the the deed on 911
entry to the airport, remains unchecked (with the full knowledge of our local
govt.). Really looks good to the general public though. Oh well Who played
the fiddle while that large city burned?
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
Someone could have totally destroyed that building and killed most everyone
in it with 6 - 5 gallon cans of gasoline and a couple of hot plates. It
isn't very hard to use everyday things for destructive purposes. I haven't
seen 'waiting periods' or 'limited access' to gas cans or gasoline. One of
the arguments for taking away your right to bare arms, was that "someone
could use hand guns to take over and kill everyone on an airplane". Guess
what? You don't need hand guns to kill lots of people on an airplane.
If we take away our own rights, freedom and liberties, who really won?? Bin
Laden or the US people??
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Hi Jim,
My EIS custom home page shows 9 items at one time. RPM, MP, fuel p, flow
rate (GPH), oil T, oil P, Hours and minutes since startup, highest CHT and
one more which I'm having a hard time remembering sitting here at the
computer. Oh well it is my 65th birthday today, so 8 of 9 might be
acceptable :>)
I have it set up so that my 2nd customized page is where I fly should the RM
microencoder go bad during a flight. This page shows AS, ALT, VSI and RPM
and MP.
I can honestly say, that the EIS has been one of the more pleasant good
surprises on my panel. It's flexibility to customize pages and eliminate any
of the 13 or so factory pages seems very comfortable to a retired propulsion
design engineer.
Hope to see you at SnF RV event on the 25&26th of this month
Bernie Kerr, 250 hours of grin time on a 6A,
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
while the EIS4000P shows 3 perameters at one time. The later also
> does not have graphical (LED displays. You are correct, one costs $1000
> more. However, its really not apples and apples, although both are very
good
> units. Just look at the displays and see which one is telling you more
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Followup aerobatic question |
>
>
>Having never done aerobatics ,except on a few landings : -) , I would like
>to throw a question out there for those who have:
>What happens to the engine if you do hold zero or negative G for a few
>seconds? Does the engine stall out and restart as soon as positive G is
>established?
It may or may not stumble or poop out. No two carbureted engines behave
exactly the same. I find I can float over the top of a loop at zero G for a
couple of seconds and the engine keeps running. I haven't spent any
extended time at negative G.
>Do you lose your oil pressure right away?
Not that my pressure gauge has indicated thus far.
If so, does it
>toast the bearings in the engine?
I doubt it, but it may lead to accelerated wear over time. Oil pressures
inside the engine are not constant. What you see on the gauge is
representative of a single sampling point. The presence, or lack thereof, of
lubrication on critical bearing surfaces during a momentary system pressure
drop is subject to many variables...oil viscosity, temperature,
crank/cam/bearing tolerances, etc.
What is the difference between a
>carbureted engine and fuel injected as far as negative G is concerned?
Fuel injection is not subject to gravitational issues. A carburetor works
under positive G loading only.
>More questions about the airplane:
>What happens to the battery electrolyte?
Shouldn't be a problem. Of course, this is assuming you use a modern,
sealed lead acid battery.
How about the brake fluid?
It can leak out of the reservoir cap. Usually not an issue.
Does
>engine oil leak out?
Without an inverted oil system, it will blow out the breather fitting. the
inverted oil system reclaims this oil and delivers it back to the engine.
Does fuel leak out of the vents?
This is subject to the fit of your tank cap O-rings. A little seepage will
probably happen. I find that the Van's supplied caps leak a bit unless you
adjust them to be reeeally tight....which places excessive stress on the
latch pin. So, I back off on the torque just enough to limit the seepage
while still allowing the latch to snap down without undue application of
gorilla torque. Fuel lube on the O-ring helps.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
enjoys spending quality time upside down...but only for a moment!
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 01/06/02 |
> From: Bobby Hester
Ok guys, I'm about to start working on my ribs and I was going to order
the wiring conduit, but was looking at the basic wiring kit. Is the kit
the way to go, good investment? I am putting the Duckworks landing
lights in each wing. What about the Wire harness what is that? For the
engine compartment?
Next what about a flop tube is everyone putting one in or not? I do plan
on doing loops and rolls.
Is there anything else coming up that I need to concider? I am already
putting in the capacitive type senders.
<
Bobby,
One more thing. If you are planning on useing a constant speed prop and
will be doing any negative or zero G flight you should consider getting an
aerobatic prop. When a non-aero CS prop loses oil pressure it goes to flat
pitch and could overspeed your engine. An aero prop has counterweights
that force the prop to coarse pitch when oil pressure drops, thus slowing
your engine. More than one engine has been trashed by loss of oil in a
non-aero CS prop.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com> |
>Must be a Lycoming thing.
Hot starts are easier than cold starts on my fuel injected engine.
I just recently removed the mixture lever from the cockpit. The automatic
altitude compensation is mechanical, and certified in Europe. I sure hope
it
works over here. :-)
Jim Ayers<
Jim, Tell more! What injection system do you have and what is the
automatic altitude compensation thingy? Is it standard or an option?
Inquiring minds, blah, blah, blah....
Ron Schreck
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | alt compensation |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Must be a Lycoming thing.
Hot starts are easier than cold starts on my fuel injected engine.
I just recently removed the mixture lever from the cockpit. The automatic
altitude compensation is mechanical, and certified in Europe. I sure hope
it
works over here. :-)<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CNN Poll re GA |
The only problem is you can't tell who is really a nutcase and who is just a
little different until they do something stupid. Then it's too late.
There is a lot of people out there that think all of us should be in
institutions for flying planes we built in our basements. From their point
of view we would be the ones who shouldn't be allowed near an airport, they
think we're suicidal. Who is going to be the judge of sanity?
Dealing with nutcases who do stupid things to try to get attention is one of
the costs of freedom, if we accept any "protective" restrictions there are
many sane people (like us) who will end up oppressed.
I'd rather take my freedom and deal with the fact that on rare occasions
people do stupid things that hurt other people simply because they can.
Pat P
N154PK
42.5 hours of enjoying freedom without harming anyone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:10:33 AM
"Greg Yotz" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 08:57:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: CNN Poll re GA
>>>>>If we take away our own rights, freedom and liberties, who really
won??
Diane Feinstein and all her gang in the Senate.
You don't need rights you silly peasant, you have them to protect you. Why
don't you just stop trying to be a cowboy and admit that the lefties know
what is right for you. Give yourself over to them, they will feed and house
you. They will make a nice little job for you and ensure that you have
medical care and a suitable education. If they wanted you to fly, they
would tell you where to report for flight training. However if you did,
that would not be fair to someone else, and that would be bad.
All of you freedom loving do-it-yourselfers are screwing up a perfectly
good utopian society. I am hopeful that when Florida comes under the great
wisdom and leadership of Janet Reno that there will be no more attacks from
the dreaded Cessena Deathhawks. When Cessenas are outlawed, only outlaws
will fly Cessenas.
Power to the people!!!!!
Eric (Capitalist money-grubbing exploiter of the proletariat) Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Powder Coating in Denver |
Hello,
Can anyone in the Denver area recommend a powder coating shop. I've only got
the windscreen support and seat back support to do and I'm hoping this will
not cost a fortune for such a small batch.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating in Denver |
Greg,
I know that there is an outfit in Fort Collins that does small items. They
did a presentation last year at our EAA meeting. I'll see if I can find a
contact for you.
Cliff
>
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone in the Denver area recommend a powder coating shop. I've only
got
> the windscreen support and seat back support to do and I'm hoping this
will
> not cost a fortune for such a small batch.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Here is an update to this post.
I flew a number of test fights with "Casper" in this configuration; dual
Robbins heat muffs in series ( no springs or scrubbies) flowing thru Vans,
Vent TG10 triangular heat box on the firewall, with the heat control locked
full open.
Addition changes were made in this order.
The baggage compartment rear bulkhead lower section was sealed with 1" soft
foam triangles.
Result; small decrease in the amount of air felt between the seat backs and
arm rests.
Removed the inspection cover under horizontal stab.
Result; no discernible difference in the amount of air flow.
Installed a 1.8 X 3.5 NACA duct ( inside of fuselage) reversed just aft of
the F635A elevator bell crank.
Result; Major difference! For the first time I can feel the heater output, and
only a tiny bit of air coming forward can be felt, which stops entirely if you
open up an air vent slightly.
Preliminary conclusion:
The tail cone on the RV6 is being pressurized by what I believe is the Kamm
effect acting on the aft sections of the fuselage, horizontal & vertical
stabs. This has manifested it's self in many forms; the difficulty of sealing
canopies, heat muffs not appearing to work very well, and just general air
leaks all over.
During the tests the heat control was wide open and almost no heat could be
felt because the heater output couldn't overcome the tail air pressure, until
the NACA duct was installed, then the output was too much and started roasting
my feet. As the heat control was closed, air from the tail could be felt
increasing directly in proportion to the amount the heat cable was closed.
At one time consideration was given to sealing the holes in the tail structure
where the horizontal bolts on. This was determined to be a poor solution
because the elevator tube pass through would have to be sealed as well.
Although this could be done, the bellows would be asymmetrically loaded, this
would change the wonderful control feel that Vans aircraft have and could be
potentially very dangerous.
Further modifications planned:
The 1.8 X 3.5 NACA duct is letting most of this pressure back out, but is not
large enough to remove it all so a new lager one will be fabricated and
installed.
A way of harnessing some of this potential energy, such as direct it to low
pressure areas on the fuselage such as the fuselage wing trailing edge
interaction. This modification is already in flight test, a report will be
issued by the end of January.
Garry "Casper"
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
> Help, I'm freezing my you know what off.
> Casper and I were up playing last night and it was cold. At 6000 ft it
> was 28F and there was no sun, Yes, I know for you non Californians
> that's a nice day, but to us spoiled Californians it's cold. I'm getting
> a lot of air coming in from the tail cone, since I have a cover over the
> baggage compartment the air blasts between the seats and the armrests
> and you can really feel it. I've thought of gluing little triangles of
> compressible foam in all the folds in the baggage bulkhead, or putting a
> reverse NACA duct on the belly.
> Here is what I have so far as a base line;
> Aileron boots as per Sam B., All holes in the area covered by the wing
> to fuselage fairing are tight, Heat is supplied by two Robbins muffs (
> one on each lower pipe, no scrubbies) in series with a 1 1/4 restrictor
> (to slow the air down), which dumps on each side by the rudder pedals. I
> have a indoor/outdoor house thermometer with the outdoor remote sender
> positioned to read the heater outlet temp. In cruise it gets up to over
> 145 F which is as high as the sensor goes. The firewall, floor and sides
> back to the seat back bulkhead are insulated using the old thick Vans
> firewall insulation. Anyway you guys flying in the real world, I sure
> could use some ideas.
> Garry " Casper"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Powder Coating in Denver |
Here's another piece of info that might be of interest to you...
Cardinal industrial Finishes
1195 East 64th Avenue
Denver, Colorado 80229
Phone 303.286.1876 or 1.800.998.9832
Fax 303.286.1878
These guys manufacture the powder coat Van uses on his kit parts...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff Begnaud
Subject: Re: RV-List: Powder Coating in Denver
-->
Greg,
I know that there is an outfit in Fort Collins that does small items.
They did a presentation last year at our EAA meeting. I'll see if I can
find a contact for you. Cliff
>
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone in the Denver area recommend a powder coating shop. I've
> only
got
> the windscreen support and seat back support to do and I'm hoping this
will
> not cost a fortune for such a small batch.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CNN vote on GA restrictions |
In a message dated 1/6/2002 4:50:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
> cengland(at)netdoor.com>
>
> >>>>
> CNN is running a online vote. Should there be more
> restrictions on
> small aircraft? Does not look good for aviation if we go by
> that vote.
> The yes vote is way ahead.
>
> http://www.cnn.com/
>
> About half wasy down on right side under QUICK VOTE.
> >>>>
> Just picked this up off RAH (posted by one of our RV
> Listers)
>
This is just what General Aviation didn't need, a deranged 15 year year old
idiot kid taking a 172 and flying it into the 24 floor of a building. There
is also a report that he had written a sucide letter pleging
Osama..........this really pissis me off. Now all of the Goverment buttheads
that wants to restrict and or ban general avition has more amunition to blow
this all out of porpotion.
Who is to blame.......The kids parents ?
The flight instructor ?
The flight school ?
Cessna Corp. ?
General Aviation ?
Is it me or have we all came to a point that nobody can except the
responsability of thier own actions, no matter what the cause?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | trim servo wiring |
I'm trying to make some headway on wiring my trim servo setup and I'm
hoping to not have to reinvent the wheel.
I've got two Mac servos (elevator & aileron) to be hooked through two
Mac relays into the coolie hat switch on my single Infinity grip. Add
to this mess the two Mac trim position indicators and I'm thoroughly
confused. Can somebody tell me in simple English (not electrical
diagram speak) which little wire goes where to make this all work? I
can put it all together if I know to where to put it all... :-)
Thanks!
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Isn't the bottom line that vans took suggestions and made very minor
changes. Then he made VERY MAJOR changes to the kit itsself. i.e. The
finished airplanes aren't very diffenent, but the kits are worlds apart.
Humbly Submitted
Don Mei
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
At the rear center of canopy there is about 1/4 inch space between the
canopy
and the canopy bow. I don't see how I can bend the bow to fit right in
the center.
The bow does touch the canopy about two inchs each side of the center.
Will pop riveting the skirt to the canopy alone in the center be ok.
I assume the left and right skirt will butt at the center rather than
overlap.
any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger training |
Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls to
numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no longer do
that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals and a
throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to ride
back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to find........
I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll your
own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow every
input they have to offer you.
I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up on
transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this country.
Hope that this helps you...........
George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating in Denver |
When we were looking to paint the interior of our 8, we used Bills
suggestion and bought spray cans from Cardinal that matched the powder coat
color from Van's....it came out great and hass been durable through the
completion of all the wiring etc... We do need a few cans to fdo a little
touch up and to paint a few added pieces. I f anyone else is using this
idea and ordering from Cardinal we would love to hook on to that order for 3
cans.
Thanks
Doug Bell jr
Manistee, MI
8qb
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Powder Coating in Denver
>
> Here's another piece of info that might be of interest to you...
>
> Cardinal industrial Finishes
> 1195 East 64th Avenue
> Denver, Colorado 80229
> Phone 303.286.1876 or 1.800.998.9832
> Fax 303.286.1878
>
> These guys manufacture the powder coat Van uses on his kit parts...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff Begnaud
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Powder Coating in Denver
>
>
> -->
>
> Greg,
> I know that there is an outfit in Fort Collins that does small items.
> They did a presentation last year at our EAA meeting. I'll see if I can
> find a contact for you. Cliff
>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Can anyone in the Denver area recommend a powder coating shop. I've
> > only
> got
> > the windscreen support and seat back support to do and I'm hoping this
> will
> > not cost a fortune for such a small batch.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > Greg Puckett
> > Elizabeth, Colorado
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I have one of the original Bernie Warnke props on my RV. It is a climb
prop. Since I fly in the flatlands of the East, it doesn't really fit my
needs well. Does anyone have any interest in purchasing a used, in very
good condition original Bernie Warnke prop. If you have an interest, let me
know. Marjorie Warnke said a fair price would be $650 to $700. Contact
me off list for details and questions.
Best regards,
Don Mei
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim servo wiring |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)adlittle.com |
01/07/2002 05:41:28 PM
Hi Ken,
I have the same set-up in my -4 as you describe. I have drawings which may
help, or I could chat with you on the phone. If I can be of help, send me
a message or give me a call.
Dean Pichon
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | Ken Balch |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 01/07/02 02:49 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: trim servo wiring
|
I'm trying to make some headway on wiring my trim servo setup and I'm
hoping to not have to reinvent the wheel.
I've got two Mac servos (elevator & aileron) to be hooked through two
Mac relays into the coolie hat switch on my single Infinity grip. Add
to this mess the two Mac trim position indicators and I'm thoroughly
confused. Can somebody tell me in simple English (not electrical
diagram speak) which little wire goes where to make this all work? I
can put it all together if I know to where to put it all... :-)
Thanks!
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
Car dealers sell a nice (but a bit pricey) cigarette lighter receptacle that
includes a "cap" with "12 V Outlet" labeled on it. I got mine from a
Chrysler dealer (I believe it is the unit they use in their vans).
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
>
> I did the cigarette lighter (I like to refer to it as Aux 12V Power) and I
> am glad I did it. Had another handheld GPS, Tranceiver, and even charged
my
> cell phone on a trip.
>
> I think the adapters are pretty standard for anything you put in, so it
> should be a good choice to put in. Cheap and easy, too.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
>
>
> >
> > Hapy New Year All,
> > Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering
some
> > type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power
in
> the
> > future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> > socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Bill Griffin RV6
> > Balto. MD
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pichon.dean(at)adlittle.com |
01/07/2002 05:47:10 PM
I have a similar gap between my canopy and canopy bow. I ignored it and
placed rivets only where the bow contacted the canopy. I, too, riveted the
skirt directly to the canopy at that location. To protect the canopy, I
made an aluminum "washer" that was placed on the inside surface of the
canopy. It was shaped to allow it to be held in place by 2 of the canopy
skirt rivets. The "washer" is shaped such that it cannot be seen from
outside the aircraft while the canopy is closed. I would not recommend
"forcing" the canopy to touch the bow. So far (50hrs) my canopy has been
behaving.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | Earl Fortner |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 01/07/02 04:49 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy
|
At the rear center of canopy there is about 1/4 inch space between the
canopy
and the canopy bow. I don't see how I can bend the bow to fit right in
the center.
The bow does touch the canopy about two inchs each side of the center.
Will pop riveting the skirt to the canopy alone in the center be ok.
I assume the left and right skirt will butt at the center rather than
overlap.
any suggestions?
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Gary,
Is this the one Van sells?
Ross
> Installed a 1.8 X 3.5 NACA duct ( inside of fuselage) reversed just aft of
> the F635A elevator bell crank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WILLMINCEY(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Followup aerobatic question |
Have done probably 50-60 hammerheads in my RV-3 w/o inverted system and the
engine hasn't stopped yet. You can do hammerheads in many ways with finnesse
but if you get very light in the seat for over 20 sec at high power settings
you will use up all the gas in the carb and the engine will stumble/quit.
Suggest you try another Instructor before you change airplanes or delete
maneuvers that are no brainers.
But don't do it if it isn't fun.
Good Day and happy acro
Will Mincey
Rv-3A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | cigarette lighter for power? |
I got mine at wal-mart... Can't remember how much, but knowing me, I am
sure that were mega cheap...
They don't say anything on them and have a little cap that goes in
them...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/wire21.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rickjory
Subject: Re: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
Car dealers sell a nice (but a bit pricey) cigarette lighter receptacle
that includes a "cap" with "12 V Outlet" labeled on it. I got mine from
a Chrysler dealer (I believe it is the unit they use in their vans).
Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin" <RMCKEE(at)MN.RR.COM> |
I'm looking to buy some used Tools at a good price. I am starting my
tail of an RV-3. I am a first time builder so I will need every thing
from a rivet gun to bucking bars.
Robin from Minnesota
RMCKEE(at)MN.RR.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping Warm |
Ross,
This is a NACA scoop (duct) that I built from composites. I didn't use the Van's
scoop because it is 2.5 wide by .625 high. I calculated it would be too small.
My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next scoop is
going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it works near
the end of the month.
Also I would like to clarify a point regarding the heat muff air supply. I
removed the 1 1/4 reducer before starting the second test series.
Garry "Casper"
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> Is this the one Van sells?
>
> Ross
>
> > Installed a 1.8 X 3.5 NACA duct ( inside of fuselage) reversed just aft of
> > the F635A elevator bell crank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The List
The scoop used is a typical NASA profile it is completely inside the
fuselage with the air exhausting out thru a contoured hole in the belly.
When viewed from the outside it looks like a bigger version of Vans NACA
scoop (duct) only the transition is reversed.
Garry "Casper"
Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
> I read with interest your post as I live even further north than
> you.Could you please tell me if the duct was exhausting through the
> belly of the fuselage?Did the inside have any scoop shape to it?Any
> chance of a picture?Thanks for your time,Scott in Vancouver-6 past
> 90%!
________________________________________________________________________________
Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make them. But
not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that there are
no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
configurations.
Garry "Casper"
Ross Mickey wrote:
> Gary,
> Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so I
> could mold one?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next
> scoop is
> >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it works
> near
> >the end of the month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: [Fwd: [c-a] CNN survey on restricting access to planes]] |
I wrote this to someone last night. I also wonder how many adults who want
additional restrictions have ever given their kid the keys to the suv and said
go get the
packages. They know they should not drive the vehicle but certainly have the
opportunity. If an accident occurs, should there be another CNN poll and restrictions
on
access to four wheelers? Who is responsible?
Arthur Glaser wrote:
> In the last couple of years
> Student driving without a license
> Department Chair rear ended by a guy with a suspended license in a vehicle which
he
> may not have had permission to drive. Police said they could do nothing since
he had
> no license.
> A patient rear ended by a large truck. Driver had a suspended license.
> Another driving without a license.
> Only the student paid any price.
>
> Tommy wrote:
>
> > Art,
> >
> > Thanks, I wonder what folks would have voted if the kid stole a bus and
> > drove it into a hotel lobby?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > tom
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Spidell" <scudrunner2(at)lycos.com> |
Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am wondering if
it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger training |
George,
If you are talking the first test flights you must
know it is illegal to do so. Insurance would be void
and liability would be monsterous. Just a consideration
for you on the cfi for first flights befort the prescribed
thet phase is complete.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
I use a 220 volt. It doesn't work as hard to get it's power, as a 115
volt would have to do to make the same power (psi out put in a given
perion of time.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
"J. Spidell" wrote:
>
>
> Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am wondering
if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CNN Poll re GA |
Why is the list being polluted with this nonsense?
There are plenty of places on the web and in Usenet to discuss your political
views. Take this stuff there.
Please...all, keep teaching me about building RV's. One day, I'll return the
favor by having enough experience to help someone else.
In the meanwhile, let's all agree to protect the superb RV list from
degeneration into uselessness, and preserve its intended purpose.
Robert
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> "Greg Yotz" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 08:57:49 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To:
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: CNN Poll re GA
>
> >>>>>If we take away our own rights, freedom and liberties, who really
> won??
>
> Diane Feinstein and all her gang in the Senate.
>
> You don't need rights you silly peasant, you have them to protect you. Why
> don't you just stop trying to be a cowboy and admit that the lefties know
> what is right for you. Give yourself over to them, they will feed and house
> you. They will make a nice little job for you and ensure that you have
> medical care and a suitable education. If they wanted you to fly, they
> would tell you where to report for flight training. However if you did,
> that would not be fair to someone else, and that would be bad.
>
> All of you freedom loving do-it-yourselfers are screwing up a perfectly
> good utopian society. I am hopeful that when Florida comes under the great
> wisdom and leadership of Janet Reno that there will be no more attacks from
> the dreaded Cessena Deathhawks. When Cessenas are outlawed, only outlaws
> will fly Cessenas.
>
> Power to the people!!!!!
>
> Eric (Capitalist money-grubbing exploiter of the proletariat) Henson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tampa incident |
Hmmmmmmm
And so it is, here at the Venice FL airport our local chapter can no
longer have our fly in breakfast . No person without a hanger or aircraft is
allowed to enter the airport, Reason the local FBI, CIA, City council, Dick
Heads, Janet Reno types ETC, the list is endless are just simply to
irresponsible to take responsibility. Furthermore this will continue until we
the people have absolutely no rights. BUUUUt Any person that is not a legal
citizen etc is more then welcome to come throught the other gates reserved
for them without question, GOD forbid there rights will be violated for what
ever reason.
Joe Wiza
RV6A
Just Treading water
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
Some compressor motors are dual voltage and
can be run on either. I wired mine for 220V as it simply
runs better on 220V. there should be wiring stats inside
the lead cover of the motor.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/7/2002 3:54:40 PM Central Standard Time,
efortner(at)vnet.net writes:
> I assume the left and right skirt will butt at the center rather than
> overlap.
> any suggestions?
>
>
>
I believe the ends are overlapped. Keep working the rear and you'll get the
right fit, but still you may need to add weather stripping when it's all said
and done. A lot of air will tend to flow in from the rear.
Carey Mills
-4, 211hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW |
Hey Garth...
Yeah, it's in the Feb issue, page 43; Aero 'Lectrics - build a
full-house engine monitor on the cheap; by Jim Weir...
I went to his web site to see if by chance he had anything posted about
it, and I found this...
http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/KP0202/KP0202.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Shearing [mailto:garth(at)islandnet.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
Bill, which issue of Kitplanes has the engine monitor on the cheap. I
have the January issue, and there is only an article about a
voltmeter/ammeter by Bill Weir. Is there something in the February
issue, or what?
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
I converted mine to 220, uses less current that way. and loads both legs
of my incoming voltage the same, 110 would only draw between one leg and
neutral/ground. This way my light don't dim when the compressor kicks
in.
Of course I have 220 access in my garage which made it worthwhile.
In the end, access to 220 will dictate the 'ease'
most electric motors have a diagram on the inside of the wire/terminal
cover. take a look inside, maybe it will also tell you current draw on
110. generally, a data plate on the outside tells you what the draw is
on either voltage IF it is a dual voltage motor.
Of course if the compressor price is right, you could get another motor
suitable for your voltage needs.
Gert
"J. Spidell" wrote:
>
>
> Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am wondering
if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tampa incident |
Scott,
Forgive my dated knowledge, but they used to have -16's there, didn't they?
When did they take them out and what did they replace them with?
Keith
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tampa incident
> they are talking about bringing in at least a couple fighters back to
mcdill,
> as it would have taken 10 minutes for 1 to reach Tampa from Homestead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
I use a 220v air compressor 8HP/60 gal vertical tank. Runs everything I have
with little effort. With air compressors, bigger is always better. And it
needs the 220v to generate the HP. Mine is in my garage and my shop in the
basement is plumed for air at 4 different locations with a remote on/off
electrical switch.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. Spidell
Subject: RV-List: 220V compressor
Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am wondering
if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Veth" <vethm(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
I just bought a 220 volt compressor from Home Depot. A 220 volt
compressor is good as it does not draw as much current per hp than 110
volt. If you want a portable compressor, though, 110 is the way to go.
It was easy to hook up, but if you don't have a 220-volt outlet ready to
go, you'll have to add a circuit to your circuit breaker box. Not a big
deal, really. Ask for help at Home Depot on how to set it up and what
parts you'll need.
Mike Veth
RV-8A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wiring Chart |
Don-
I am facing the lighting issue in the wings right now
too. I am just about ready to close up my wings on my
8A - and here is what I have found:
(A) The easy way - I bought Van's wiring kit and it
says to put #18 for all the lights in the wings.
(B) Looking at 43.13 Par 11-68 - basically two things
you need to look out for:
(1) Over heating with the current loads
(2) Loss of voltage drop due to the resistance in the
wires.
For #2
There's a handy table in there that in my copy is
Table 11.2 (shows examples) and 11.3. Basically you
take the length of your on the Y axis - go across to
the diaganol lines that are amperes (listed on the top
of the X axis) and then go down to the bottom of the
This table complies with what Van suggests assuming
the lights are going to be under/around ~7amps and
that the runs are about 15 ft.
For #1 - well haven't played with it - I was told that
this becomes more of an issue with higher altitudes
and longer wire runs.
Of course there's Aero connection's book - its very
thorough with a lot of stuff - but kind of out
there...
-Dag
PS The URL for the chart is (I think its on the 3rd
page):
http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/3u-ch11_5.pdf
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: RE: Wiring Chart |
Whoops!
I just wanted to make sure I wasn't misunderstood -
Aero Connection's book is awesome - its an excellent
resource.
-Dag
--- dag adamson wrote:
> Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:26:43 -0800 (PST)
> From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RE: Wiring Chart
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Don-
>
> I am facing the lighting issue in the wings right
> now
> too. I am just about ready to close up my wings on
> my
> 8A - and here is what I have found:
>
> (A) The easy way - I bought Van's wiring kit and it
> says to put #18 for all the lights in the wings.
>
> (B) Looking at 43.13 Par 11-68 - basically two
> things
> you need to look out for:
>
> (1) Over heating with the current loads
> (2) Loss of voltage drop due to the resistance in
> the
> wires.
>
> For #2
> There's a handy table in there that in my copy is
> Table 11.2 (shows examples) and 11.3. Basically you
> take the length of your on the Y axis - go across to
> the diaganol lines that are amperes (listed on the
> top
> of the X axis) and then go down to the bottom of the
> X-axis to give you the guage.
>
> This table complies with what Van suggests assuming
> the lights are going to be under/around ~7amps and
> that the runs are about 15 ft.
>
> For #1 - well haven't played with it - I was told
> that
> this becomes more of an issue with higher altitudes
> and longer wire runs.
>
> Of course there's Aero connection's book - its very
> thorough with a lot of stuff - but kind of out
> there...
>
> -Dag
>
>
> PS The URL for the chart is (I think its on the 3rd
> page):
>
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/3u-ch11_5.pdf
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
> __________________________________________________
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wiring Chart |
Man I hope I don't get flamed before this gets out ;)
Here's what I am using for the wire guages:
Nav - 18 (this is what I was speaking about before)
Strobes - 16
Landing Lights - 14
Taxi Light - 14
... Remember advise is cheap!
Sorry for the lack of detail before - just trying to
help!
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
They took away the squadron of F-16s from McDill about 10 - 12 years ago,
when the Gov't was closing air bases. This one would have closed except for
"Central Command" which is here. Rather than have this really nice facility
here and not use it, they removed the F-16s and brought in KC-135s. We can
fly right by the airbase all the time, and if you ask, they will let you
traverse their air space (it was routine prior to 9-11). I never saw more
than 6 tankers there at one time. There are 5 airports within 8 NM of
McDill.
Jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Keith Hughes
Subject: Re: RV-List: tampa incident
Scott,
Forgive my dated knowledge, but they used to have -16's there, didn't they?
When did they take them out and what did they replace them with?
Keith
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tampa incident
> they are talking about bringing in at least a couple fighters back to
mcdill,
> as it would have taken 10 minutes for 1 to reach Tampa from Homestead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
Be sure it is a single phase motor. If it is a single phase it is a simple
hookup as the others have said. Do run it on 220 as the losses are less with
the lower current and life is greater. I do suggest you use 3 wires. One from
each side of the single phase service and a ground wire for safety 220 single
phase does not use a neutral so the third wire is a bonding wire to prevent
shock in case of an insulation failure. If you do not understand this, please
get someone that is qualified.
Karl Rigdon
Hazel Green, WI
BC12D-1 N44257
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Gary,
before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already made.
I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects. Lots
of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who make
NACA ducts cheap.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make them.
But
not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that there
are
no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
configurations.
Garry "Casper"
Ross Mickey wrote:
> Gary,
> Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so I
> could mold one?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next
> scoop is
> >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it
works
> near
> >the end of the month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger training |
I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
Jim Cimino
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
> Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
to
> numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
> used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no longer
do
> that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals and
a
> throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to ride
> back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
find........
> I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
your
> own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
every
> input they have to offer you.
> I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up
on
> transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
country.
> Hope that this helps you...........
>
> George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
I had a 110v compressor that I ended up rewiring to 220 because it
continually tripped the breaker at 110v. When that one died I picked up a
big compressor and ran a new 220 line dedicated to it, works great. I would
stick with the 220 if at all possible.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Spidell" <scudrunner2(at)lycos.com>
Subject: RV-List: 220V compressor
>
> Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am
wondering if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-699 screw size |
Referring to drawing 46 upper left (section E-E) it looks more like a bolt
than a screw so used AN3-4A's.
Eustace Bowhay- Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-699 screw size
>
> A picture of my fuel selector/floor angle installation is at
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/interior.html#fuelseystem
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger training |
This may be up for discussion. I have (or had) a letter from the FAA saying
that an instructor could be considered essential personnel and would be
permitted. The down side is that this letter is from the 70's. I believe I was
told to write to the legal division for clarification back then.
Art Glaser
ciminojim wrote:
>
> I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
> tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
> it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
> Jim Cimino
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
> >
> > Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> > non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> > flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
> to
> > numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
> > used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no longer
> do
> > that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals and
> a
> > throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to ride
> > back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
> find........
> > I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
> your
> > own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
> every
> > input they have to offer you.
> > I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up
> on
> > transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
> country.
> > Hope that this helps you...........
> >
> > George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "scottalanair" <scottalanair(at)email.msn.com> |
Jim
I have the same deal on a few inside ribs on the wing walk and a few around
the tie downs. I just drilled correctly and went on. no holes close
enought to each other to weaken proper hole location
Scott H
----- Original Message -----
From: jim <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Ribs
>
> Al,
>
> Do none of the holes line up or just one per rib. I seem to recall that
> there were a few ribs where I ended up having to drill I believe one hole
> per rib. There also were a couple areas where holes had to be drilled at
> the main spar to the ribs and the plans said to ignore the already
existing
> holes in the flange, near the tie down assembly as I recall.
>
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs
>
>
> >
> > Listers:
> > I am ready to drill my ribs to the front and rear spar on my RV8 wings.
I> > noticed that the holes in the three most inboard rib flanges do not
line> > up with the holes in the rear spar( where the spar reinforcement plate
i> > s). Has anyone run into this problem? Thanks.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | kt76 transponder wiring diagram |
Fellow listers,
Does anyone have a kt76 transponder wiring diagram they
could email or fax to me?
Thanks,
Gary Gunn, RV-6 panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I got a question.
I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into the wind,
but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the original report
from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape helps evacuate air from
a aft body. Might even be more drag than something simplier.
Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well? (Whole lot easier
to build and adjust for testing).
Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
Laird
RV-6
SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Gary,
before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already made.
I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects. Lots
of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who make
NACA ducts cheap.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make them.
But
not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that there
are
no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
configurations.
Garry "Casper"
Ross Mickey wrote:
> Gary,
> Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so I
> could mold one?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next
> scoop is
> >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it
works
> near
> >the end of the month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
"socal-rvlist"
Anybody have a source for UHMW tape (with adhesive on the back) in a 4" (or wider)
width?
I know Van's has it in the 3" width, but nothing wider.
TIA,
Laird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 220V compressor |
I bought a nice 220V (not able to use 110V) compressor a long time ago, and
it has worked well. The only regret I have is that I can't use it at my
hanger. There is only a simple single phase circuit, so no chance of 220V
service. I had to buy a second compressor for the hanger. I would try to
get one that's convertible from 110 to 220 in case you ever need to run it
on 110V.
Cheers,
Rusty (Danger, Florida boy driving in the snow in Cleveland!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Followup aerobatic question |
> If you go upside down and push, you will have oil on the belly, no matter
> what kind of oil seperator you have.
I have the Christen inverted system, and one flight recently I went from
plus 1 to minus 1 g about 10 times, with no sign of oil on the belly. I was
practicing inverted flying (and also trying to stir up the oil before my
Aeroshell recall driven oil change). I believe the location of the
separator relative to the sump is important in how well they work. Also, if
there are many rapid plus/minus g changes, the separator may not have time
to drain, and will barf oil overboard.
I do tape a little towel over the brake reservoir cap for inverted work,
because it will definitely puke hydraulic fluid out. Since the last
inverted session, I have fabricated a little check valve for this, but have
not yet tested it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 73 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: alt compensation |
Hi All,
The LOM engine has a mechanical fuel pump which provides fuel to each intake
port via individual fuel lines. The pump provides fuel to each intake port
once every two revolutions. (Mechanically time fuel injection.)
The amount of fuel is controlled by a set of metal bellows and a balancing
spring mechanism. The metal bellows are in a fuel pump chamber connected to
the intake manifold.
For the standard fuel pump on the LOM M332A engine, the metal bellows over
corrects the mixture to the engine. The cockpit "mixture" lever is actually
used to enrich the mixture as the aircraft gains altitude. One "click" for
each 2,600 feet of altitude.
On the new fuel pump, the altitude compensation has been calibrated so the
"external adjustment" isn't needed.
I apologize if I've oversimplified the description to much, or if it's not
understandable.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A? engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger training |
I highly recommend spending a little on transitional training before you
strap on your new plane. Get to know your local flight advisor so you can
plan the first flights. If you aren't ready it might cost you a bunch
including possibly your new plane and your life. For a lot more info get
the October 2001 issue of the EAA's Experimenter page 35.
De Nile is not a river in Egypt but rears its ugly head quite often in
aviation, especially when it comes time to test one's new airplane. Bad
things can happen to good pilots and builders if they don't plan or have an
out. Then all your hard work and money goes quickly down the drain. Take the
short time to prepare correctly so you don't wipe out all that time it took
to build your bird.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
George,
If you are talking the first test flights you must
know it is illegal to do so. Insurance would be void
and liability would be monsterous. Just a consideration
for you on the cfi for first flights befort the prescribed
thet phase is complete.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I understand that the NACA doesn't work very well in reverse.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I got a
question.
I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into the
wind, but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the original
report from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape helps evacuate
air from a aft body. Might even be more drag than something simplier.
Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well? (Whole
lot easier to build and adjust for testing).
Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
Laird
RV-6
SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Gary,
before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already made.
I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects. Lots
of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who make
NACA ducts cheap.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make them.
But
not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that there
are
no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
configurations.
Garry "Casper"
Ross Mickey wrote:
> Gary,
> Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so I
> could mold one?
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next
> scoop is
> >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it
works
> near
> >the end of the month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I wired my 220 by myself, following a do-it-yourself home maintenance
book, from the box to the compressor. It wasn't too hard.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and
> I am wondering if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be
> converted to 120V?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
Hi All,
After some investigation, I have been able to determine the following:
Van's Aircraft have their "standard" wingtip for the RV-4, RV-6, and RV-8.
Van's has a "sheared" wingtip for the RV-7. The "sheared" wingtip for the
RV-7 will also fit the RV-4, RV-6 and RV-8 wing.
Van's "sheared" wingtip cost around $350. The recessed bulkhead for a NAV
light is molded in, and conforming lens covers are included. There is no
provision for a landing light in the wingtip.
Massey Aircraft Service provides the "Hot Tip" wingtip. The "Hot Tip" and
the "sheared" wingtip are similar in appearance.
The "Hot Tip" wingtip cost $485 for the wingtip, $185 for the bulkhead kit
and $160 for the light kit.
The basic "Hot Tip" wingtip does not have provisions for lights.
The bulkhead kit provides the internal wingtip bulkheads for NAV/strobe
lights, landing lights and conforming lens covers.
The landing light kit provides the landing lights, light mounting brackets
and landing light adjustment hardware.
Either wingtip should fit on the RV-4, RV-6, RV-7, RV-8 or Harmon Rocket 2.
I've been told that the F-1 Rocket has a different airfoil designed by a MIG
designer. However, my fit check with RV-4 wing ribs indicated that either
wingtip will fit on the F-1 Rocket wing, also.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A? engine
Plan to install RV-3 "Hot Tip" wingtip after I document current performance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Ya gotta have cast-iron juevos or be a little crazy to cut a 5" hole in
your plane without Van's blessing.
In my humble, conservative, non-engineering opinion,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 6:51 PM
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings
> Etc. make them. But not until I test the new scoop and it's
> location, to make sure that there are no problems such as
> exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations. Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out
> your plug
> > so I could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my
> > >next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report
> on how it
> > >works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
________________________________________________________________________________
You are correct a constant width ramp with less than a 11 degree divergence would
work as well or possibly better, if we were trying to suck the air out of the
tail. But we don't need no stinking suction. We gots lots o
pressure in that there tail, so there. Okay now that no one is listening, my duct
configuration is a cross between a submerged inlet and a ramp exit. The big
secret with these inlets is not more than 11 degrees.
Garry "Casper"
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I got a question.
>
> I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into the wind,
but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
>
> I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the original report
from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape helps evacuate air from
a aft body. Might even be more drag than something simplier.
>
> Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well? (Whole lot
easier to build and adjust for testing).
>
> Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
>
> Laird
> RV-6
> SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Gary,
> before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already made.
> I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects. Lots
> of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who make
> NACA ducts cheap.
>
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make them.
> But
> not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that there
> are
> no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so I
> > could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it
> works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/7/2002 8:06:40 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
> Anybody have a source for UHMW tape (with adhesive on the back) in a 4" (or
> wider) width?
Laird-
Try <http://www.usplastic.com> and search UHMW. They have what you want up
to 17" wide.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
The paranoia is rampant. On Saturday I did my long IFR x-country and flew
into Lampasas, TX on the first leg. For those of you not fortunate enough to
live in Texas, that's out in the middle of nowhere about 40 mi from Austin,
Kileen, Temple, Gray AAF, Ft Hood and other garden spots and also about
40-50 mi from Bush's ranch (P-49) which we got vectored around on the 2nd
leg. Far enough removed to have an unlocked, unmanned pilots lounge with a
stocked refrigerator and an honor box for payment. While we were topping off
the tanks a Sheriff's car came onto the ramp, drove by slowly then turned
around and pulled in front of the aircraft. He rolled down his window and
started quizzing us about what we were doing, where we were going and where
we came from. I wasn't aware of the Tampa incident at the time but I got the
distinct impression that he thought he was doing his bit to save the country
from us terrorists in little airplanes. I don't know whether he was paranoid
about us or I was about him but one of us was and it pisses me off either
way.
But I'm still jazzed about the trip. I had 3.0 hours of actual IMC out of
3.9. Lots of great experience including some unwanted ice clogging a vent
line (which lead us to the top off), an inop radio frequency, some night IMC
and a 34kt winds. The earlier comments about hard IFR were sure right, the
total concentration makes it a draining experience. Yet at the same time,
it was exhilarating. Sad that 9/11 finally pushed me into IFR but, like
building the RV, I wish I had started years earlier.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) RIP
Searching for Navion, working on IFR
"Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean that they're not really out to
get you."
>
> Hmmmmmmm
> And so it is, here at the Venice FL airport our local
> chapter can no
> longer have our fly in breakfast . No person without a hanger or
> aircraft is
> allowed to enter the airport, Reason the local FBI, CIA, City
> council, Dick
> Heads, Janet Reno types ETC, the list is endless are just simply to
> irresponsible to take responsibility. Furthermore this will
> continue until we
> the people have absolutely no rights. BUUUUt Any person that is
> not a legal
> citizen etc is more then welcome to come throught the other gates
> reserved
> for them without question, GOD forbid there rights will be
> violated for what
> ever reason.
>
>
> Joe Wiza
> RV6A
> Just Treading water
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | instrument separation on panel |
For all those out there with IQ's of less than 168 -
Any thoughts about how far apart instruments should be on the panel? I'm
working with 1/4 inch - will that work? Just did my first draft of my
panel - started in a CAD/CAM and quickly went to paper!
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | :Tail dragger training |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:53:17 AM
OK, I do this once a year and I guess its time.
Guys that are wanting or considering taildragger training. Go to the local
FBO pilot supply store and buy a copy of "Stick and Rudder". It should be
re-titled "why taildraggers do what they do". It will tell you what all
those parts on your plane really do and why your landings suck. If I was a
taildragger instructor, I would require someone to read this first before
wasting my time.
Eric
"ciminojim" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 09:23:30 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
Jim Cimino
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
> Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
to
> numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
> used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no
longer
do
> that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals
and
a
> throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to
ride
> back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
find........
> I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
your
> own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
every
> input they have to offer you.
> I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up
on
> transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
country.
> Hope that this helps you...........
>
> George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CNN Poll re GA |
More self-appointed list police... I sure feel better with all this
protection!! :)
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: CNN Poll re GA
>Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 19:28:35 -0400
>
>
>Why is the list being polluted with this nonsense?
>There are plenty of places on the web and in Usenet to discuss your
>political
>views. Take this stuff there.
>Please...all, keep teaching me about building RV's. One day, I'll return
>the
>favor by having enough experience to help someone else.
>In the meanwhile, let's all agree to protect the superb RV list from
>degeneration into uselessness, and preserve its intended purpose.
>Robert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:29:27 AM
Hey Garry, I've been chewing on this myself. One thing I'm curious about in
your situation. What type of passthrough for the air do you have for the
air to get aft of the rear seat? I'm of course thinking in terms of a six,
I'm assuming your NACA duct is behind the rear seat. I'm considering having
my baggage wall louvered like the hotrod guys do with the hoods of their
cars. Way back when I heard that the exit hole needs to be three times the
size (roughly) of the inlet hole to have good air flow. I would need some
serious louvers of some sort to feed a naca duct this size. I was just
wondering how the air got to your duct.
Thanks for all your work on this and sharing the info with us. I thank you,
and my canopy skirts thank you.
Eric
Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>@matronics.com on 01/07/2002
11:58:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
You are correct a constant width ramp with less than a 11 degree divergence
would work as well or possibly better, if we were trying to suck the air
out of the tail. But we don't need no stinking suction. We gots lots o
pressure in that there tail, so there. Okay now that no one is listening,
my duct configuration is a cross between a submerged inlet and a ramp exit.
The big secret with these inlets is not more than 11 degrees.
Garry "Casper"
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I got
a question.
>
> I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into the
wind, but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
>
> I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the
original report from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape helps
evacuate air from a aft body. Might even be more drag than something
simplier.
>
> Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well? (Whole
lot easier to build and adjust for testing).
>
> Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
>
> Laird
> RV-6
> SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Gary,
> before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already made.
> I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects.
Lots
> of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who make
> NACA ducts cheap.
>
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make
them.
> But
> not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that
there
> are
> no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug so
I
> > could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my
next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how it
> works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | uEncoder wiring question |
I'm ready to wire my uEncoder OAT probe to the 9-pin connector. I'm
powering the encoder from the transponder via the 15-pin connector. My
question is: do I still need to wire the #1 pin (ground) on the 9-pin
connector, or can I just hook up the two OAT leads and leave it at that?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
My new landing light kit will fit Van's wing tips... Either the
"sheared" tips with the landing light provision, or the standard tips
with the Airtech wingtip lens kit installed...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/landlightkit/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD -
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: wingtip info
Hi All,
After some investigation, I have been able to determine the following:
Van's Aircraft have their "standard" wingtip for the RV-4, RV-6, and
RV-8. Van's has a "sheared" wingtip for the RV-7. The "sheared" wingtip
for the
RV-7 will also fit the RV-4, RV-6 and RV-8 wing.
Van's "sheared" wingtip cost around $350. The recessed bulkhead for a
NAV
light is molded in, and conforming lens covers are included. There is
no
provision for a landing light in the wingtip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tampa, GA Restrictions, etc. |
If there is one thing I have noticed since I got into flying about 4 years
ago is the huge cross over between GA and and gun "enthusiasts". Not that
most gun guys are airplane guys, but most airplane guys have at least had
some interest in firearms at some time. Anyway . . .I think we need to take
a page from the NRA's playbook which is to oppose any and all restrictions
vigorously and aggressively. The anti aviation (see how easy it would be to
substitute the word gun) people will work the same way anti gun people work.
They will take on small groups of us. This week its small planes near
nuclear power plants (fill in Sniper Rifle, which is actually a deer rifle)
those of us who live near Nuke plants will protest, those who don't, won't
protest. They've just whittled away some of our rights. Hmmm, next lets
make MOA's restricted. (Handguns that hold more than 10 rounds) Now you guys
out west will get screwed and we easterners will sit on our duffs. Whittle,
whittle, whittle, before you know it you are filing a flight plan to do
pattern work and then paying for the service you receive.
We must Oppose any and all flight restrictions as if they affected us
personally. We do have one HUGE disadvantage, compared to the gun
contingent; we don't have an Amendment to the U.S. Constitution protecting
us.
AOPA has done an excellent job representing us. They were paid the ultimate
compliment recently by someone, who I can't remember. They called the AOPA,
the NRA of aviation.
Fly carefully, be aware of whose airspace you're in, and get political. You
should have your state and federal congressmen and senators names in one
place. Their emails should be in your address book and you should write
them a lot.
Best regards,
an admitted Aviation and Gun "Nut",
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey Garry, I've been chewing on this myself. One thing I'm curious
> about in
> your situation. What type of passthrough for the air do you have for
> the
> air to get aft of the rear seat?
I will offer my solution to passing air through the baggage bulkhead,
posted last month.
I have photos at:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/grobdriver@yahoo.com/
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: :Tail dragger training |
I missed the original thread but it sounds like someone is looking for a
tailwheel instructor in the Northeast. There are two excellent instructors
at Skyhaven in N.E. PA airport ID 76N. Steve Gay and his son Charlie, both
CFII's, give tailwheel instruction. Both of them live at the airport (some
people have it so good) so they are easy to schedule time with. If you're
interested contact them at the airport:
Phone 570-836-4800 or
e-mail Skyhaven(at)epix.net
Pat P
>From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: :Tail dragger training
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 07:55:32 -0500 07:53:17 AM
>
>
>OK, I do this once a year and I guess its time.
>
>Guys that are wanting or considering taildragger training. Go to the local
>FBO pilot supply store and buy a copy of "Stick and Rudder". It should be
>re-titled "why taildraggers do what they do". It will tell you what all
>those parts on your plane really do and why your landings suck. If I was a
>taildragger instructor, I would require someone to read this first before
>wasting my time.
>
>Eric
>
>
>"ciminojim" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 09:23:30 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To:
>cc:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
>
>I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
>tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
>it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
>Jim Cimino
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
>
> >
> > Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> > non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> > flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
>to
> > numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer,
>(we
> > used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no
>longer
>do
> > that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals
>and
>a
> > throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to
>ride
> > back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
>find........
> > I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
>your
> > own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
>every
> > input they have to offer you.
> > I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end
>up
>on
> > transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
>country.
> > Hope that this helps you...........
> >
> > George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument separation on panel |
--- "F. Parker Thomas" wrote:
>
>
> For all those out there with IQ's of less than 168 -
That's me.
>
> Any thoughts about how far apart instruments should be on the panel?
> I'm
> working with 1/4 inch - will that work? Just did my first draft of
> my
> panel - started in a CAD/CAM and quickly went to paper!
You need to check the instruments themselves to answer that question
(assuming you have them).
Some have more bulk than others behind the panel - the face is just the
tip of the ice berg and 1/4" spacing from the front of the panel might
very well not be enough room for the cases to sit side by side.
Be careful if you have so many instruments that you need to put them
that close together!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I have a 220v compressor. I just swapped plugs with the dryer when I needed
to since we have an electric dryer. Most of them can be rewired to 120 but
they have a hard time keeping the pressure up. It will take much longer to
charge the tank than if you left it at 220.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Spidell [mailto:scudrunner2(at)lycos.com]
Subject: RV-List: 220V compressor
Anyone use a 220V air compressor? A friend is selling one and I am wondering
if it will be a pain to hook up. Can it be converted to 120V?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder wiring question |
Ken,
I just did this, you still have to use pin 1 for ground on the 9-pin connector.
I'm not sure if this is a redundant ground or not, you could check with Ron
at Rocky Mountain Instrument. See top of page 5 in the Installation Manual.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: uEncoder wiring question
I'm ready to wire my uEncoder OAT probe to the 9-pin connector. I'm
powering the encoder from the transponder via the 15-pin connector. My
question is: do I still need to wire the #1 pin (ground) on the 9-pin
connector, or can I just hook up the two OAT leads and leave it at that?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Gary,
I'm listening!
I also have done a little analysis/tinkering to see where all this cold
air is coming from in. In my -6, the classic symptom of a cold breeze
on you neck doesn't come from the canopy skirts, rather it comes from
around the openings in the baggage bulkhead where the seat belt cables
pass through. Amazing how much air can come through there. A lot of
air comes through the openings of the corrugated baggage bulkhead.
I've taped the holes in the rear fuselage and that did nothing.
The next thing I want to try is cutting holes in the fuse inspection
hole covers and putting a small fairing (kinda like the fairing that is
used for the rudder cables, but flatter and larger) over the holes
there. I don't know how effective they will be but I've heard other
builders have had success with this. And--no holes cut in the fuselage.
This weekend I will rig up some new insp. covers to see if they work.
I'll have to agree that a Naca vent is probably not really doing its
thing--it's just acting as a blow-hole for the high pressure in the
tail. As long as air is prevented from coming in a round hole looks
like it would do the trick.
I share a hangar with a Cherokee 140 and there are a number of vents on
its fuselage, with the exits pointing rearward. Looks like they had it
figured out long before we did. They're just holes with a ramp over
them.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 260 hours
building F1 "there's no replacement for displacement"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 6:51 PM
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings
> Etc. make them. But not until I test the new scoop and it's
> location, to make sure that there are no problems such as
> exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations. Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out
> your plug
> > so I could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my
> > >next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report
> on how it
> > >works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
________
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
You are correct a constant width ramp with less than a 11 degree
divergence would work as well or possibly better, if we were trying to
suck the air out of the tail. But we don't need no stinking suction. We
gots lots o
pressure in that there tail, so there. Okay now that no one is
listening, my duct configuration is a cross between a submerged inlet
and a ramp exit. The big secret with these inlets is not more than 11
degrees.
Garry "Casper"
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I
got a question.
>
> I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into
the wind, but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
>
> I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the
original report from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape
helps evacuate air from a aft body. Might even be more drag than
something simplier.
>
> Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well?
(Whole lot easier to build and adjust for testing).
>
> Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
>
> Laird
> RV-6
> SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Gary,
> before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already
made.
> I've bought stuff from these guys in the past for race-car projects.
Lots
> of different sizes, shapes, etc. There are others out there too who
make
> NACA ducts cheap.
>
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings Etc. make
them.
> But
> not until I test the new scoop and it's location, to make sure that
there
> are
> no problems such as exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out your plug
so I
> > could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my
next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report on how
it
> works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kitplanes engine monitor |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
There are a number of flaws with his design, and some of comments he
makes in his articles. One of the flaws is his thermocouple circuitry.
His design assumes a thermocouple is a linear device--which it isn't.
In the AeroElectric Connection, Bob Nuckolls has an article that details
how thermocouples work (Seeback effect, cold-junction compensation,
etc.) and the use of the Analog Devices AD594/595 cold-junction
compensating integrated circuits.
One could easily design circuits that don't use trimmer pots, etc.
(which invite inaccuracies) that can accurately output the full range of
something like a oil temperature sender. On a cold day, an oil
temperature gauge is useless to someone who is preheating an engine if
their gauge only goes down to 140 degrees.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 260 hours
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
Hey Garth...
Yeah, it's in the Feb issue, page 43; Aero 'Lectrics - build a
full-house engine monitor on the cheap; by Jim Weir...
I went to his web site to see if by chance he had anything posted about
it, and I found this...
http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes/KP0202/KP0202.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Shearing [mailto:garth(at)islandnet.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: IK2000TM -vs- EIS4000P - FWIW
Bill, which issue of Kitplanes has the engine monitor on the cheap. I
have the January issue, and there is only an article about a
voltmeter/ammeter by Bill Weir. Is there something in the February
issue, or what?
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder wiring question |
Hi Pat,
Yeah, I just figured this out myself before checking my email. As far as I
could see, there's no ground pin on the 15-pin connector, so it stands to
reason that, since you need to ground the thing somewhere, the ground pin on
the 9-pin connector is necessary. My OAT cable is finished and ready to
install. Actual progress being made this morning... :-)
Regards,
Ken
Fletcher Hatch wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I just did this, you still have to use pin 1 for ground on the 9-pin conn> ector.
I'm not sure if this is a redundant ground or not, you could chec> k with
Ron at Rocky Mountain Instrument. See top of page 5 in the Instal> lation Manual.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-6 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | :Tail dragger training |
When I sold my Champ, I gave the new owner my copy of that book. I told him
that if he pasted the V-speeds and checklist I gave him into that book, he'd
have a flight manual for the Champ. It is a great book. Nice easy read
too.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com [mailto:Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com]
Subject: RV-List: :Tail dragger training
OK, I do this once a year and I guess its time.
Guys that are wanting or considering taildragger training. Go to the local
FBO pilot supply store and buy a copy of "Stick and Rudder". It should be
re-titled "why taildraggers do what they do". It will tell you what all
those parts on your plane really do and why your landings suck. If I was a
taildragger instructor, I would require someone to read this first before
wasting my time.
Eric
"ciminojim" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 09:23:30 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
Jim Cimino
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
> Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
to
> numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
> used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no
longer
do
> that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals
and
a
> throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to
ride
> back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
find........
> I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
your
> own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
every
> input they have to offer you.
> I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up
on
> transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
country.
> Hope that this helps you...........
>
> George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Stick and Rudder" |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:15:47 AM
One thing I really think is neat is the fact that it was written in the
early 30's. It explains the "frazee" type alileron in detail as a new
invention, as well as the nose gear. After all, back then they didn't call
them taildraggers, they called em airplanes. It was written before the jet
engine came along and he makes one funny statement that planes would
probably never exceed 400 MPH because you just can't turn a prop any
faster. OK, he got ALMOST everything right. Still after all these years,
its a must read.
Eric
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" (at)matronics.com on 01/08/2002
10:47:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: :Tail dragger training
When I sold my Champ, I gave the new owner my copy of that book. I told
him
that if he pasted the V-speeds and checklist I gave him into that book,
he'd
have a flight manual for the Champ. It is a great book. Nice easy read
too.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com [mailto:Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com]
Subject: RV-List: :Tail dragger training
OK, I do this once a year and I guess its time.
Guys that are wanting or considering taildragger training. Go to the local
FBO pilot supply store and buy a copy of "Stick and Rudder". It should be
re-titled "why taildraggers do what they do". It will tell you what all
those parts on your plane really do and why your landings suck. If I was a
taildragger instructor, I would require someone to read this first before
wasting my time.
Eric
"ciminojim" (at)matronics.com on 01/07/2002 09:23:30 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
I'm sorry...I missed the first question? Where is this person looking for
tailwheel training. I know a great instructor in NJ. By the way, I think
it is also illegal to have a flight instructor and yourself during Phase 1.
Jim Cimino
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Tail dragger training
>
> Regarding the taildragger training available today, it's almost
> non-existant here in the northeast. When I first got my -4 it was after
> flying a cherokee for 15 years and I had no tailwheel time at all. Calls
to
> numerous training facilities in this area all led to the same answer, (we
> used to offer that training, but have sold the plane) or we just no
longer
do
> that, ect)..... My solution was to install the rear seat rudder pedals
and
a
> throttle control in my -4 and seek a CFI who would be brave enough to
ride
> back there on the first rides! Actually, not too hard a job to
find........
> I think that they realize that you,re going to do your best not to roll
your
> own plane up in a ball and are going to be EXTREMELY careful to follow
every
> input they have to offer you.
> I think that this is pretty much going to be the way we end up
on
> transition training for the future crop of tailwheel pilots in this
country.
> Hope that this helps you...........
>
> George Spring Chester Ct. RV-4 4375J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Hopefully, you guys are carrying a CO detector in the airplane when you are
doing these experiments. My C-185 has vents up high on the fuse sides facing
forward, to pressurize the rear fuse, to keep exhaust gases out. Heater
works great, BTW.
John, RV8 fwf
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Vent
Gary,
I'm listening!
I also have done a little analysis/tinkering to see where all this cold
air is coming from in. In my -6, the classic symptom of a cold breeze
on you neck doesn't come from the canopy skirts, rather it comes from
around the openings in the baggage bulkhead where the seat belt cables
pass through. Amazing how much air can come through there. A lot of
air comes through the openings of the corrugated baggage bulkhead.
I've taped the holes in the rear fuselage and that did nothing.
The next thing I want to try is cutting holes in the fuse inspection
hole covers and putting a small fairing (kinda like the fairing that is
used for the rudder cables, but flatter and larger) over the holes
there. I don't know how effective they will be but I've heard other
builders have had success with this. And--no holes cut in the fuselage.
This weekend I will rig up some new insp. covers to see if they work.
I'll have to agree that a Naca vent is probably not really doing its
thing--it's just acting as a blow-hole for the high pressure in the
tail. As long as air is prevented from coming in a round hole looks
like it would do the trick.
I share a hangar with a Cherokee 140 and there are a number of vents on
its fuselage, with the exits pointing rearward. Looks like they had it
figured out long before we did. They're just holes with a ramp over
them.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 260 hours
building F1 "there's no replacement for displacement"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 6:51 PM
> To: Ross Mickey; The List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
>
>
> Ross, I will be making the scoops or having Bob at Fairings
> Etc. make them. But not until I test the new scoop and it's
> location, to make sure that there are no problems such as
> exhaust gases getting in during certain flight
> configurations. Garry "Casper"
>
> Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Are your going to be selling these beauties or renting out
> your plug
> > so I could mold one?
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > >My scoop is 3.5 wide by 1.8 high and it is just a bit to small. my
> > >next
> > scoop is
> > >going to be 5.25 wide by 2 high and I should have a report
> on how it
> > >works
> > near
> > >the end of the month.
________
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
You are correct a constant width ramp with less than a 11 degree
divergence would work as well or possibly better, if we were trying to
suck the air out of the tail. But we don't need no stinking suction. We
gots lots o
pressure in that there tail, so there. Okay now that no one is
listening, my duct configuration is a cross between a submerged inlet
and a ramp exit. The big secret with these inlets is not more than 11
degrees.
Garry "Casper"
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Now I'm no aerodyamicist (and I don't even play one on TV).....but I
got a question.
>
> I know a NACA duct (or submerged inlet duct) works great pointed into
the wind, but is it really the best shape for an exit duct????
>
> I understand how the NACA duct works (I use to have a copy of the
original report from the late 40's), but I can't see how that shape
helps evacuate air from a aft body. Might even be more drag than
something simplier.
>
> Wouldn't some plan old constant width ramp exit work just as well?
(Whole lot easier to build and adjust for testing).
>
> Hmmmm.....just thinking out loud (with lots of grinding noises).
>
> Laird
> RV-6
> SoCal (and NO....were not all liberals out here on the left coast)
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jan 7, 2002 6:35 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: NACA Vent
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Gary,
> before you start "making" scoops, search the Web for those already
made.
January 02, 2002 - January 08, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mc