RV-Archive.digest.vol-me
January 14, 2002 - January 20, 2002
>I talked with Ken at Vans and he acted like he'd never seen this
problem.
>He
>suggested attaching a matching piece of angle on the inside of the fuse
to
>keep from squeezing the gusset and skin together.
>
>I've seen Gary Zilik's solution on his web site, but what have others
done
>in this situation?
>
>TIA
>
>Robert Dickson
>RV-6A spinner to tail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: boost pump mounting |
The big hole, little hole like I did works well. I have seen many that have
just ignored the gap and installed the fitting, squeezing the skin to the
gusset. Either way works, use what is most comfortable for you.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A 280 hrs
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
> I'm trying to install the fuel system on a -6A using Van's plans as closely
> as possible. In mounting the boost pump as per drawing 49, however, I've
> come upon the problem of the gap between the gusset and the skin. I drilled
> and mounted the pump as shown on the drawing before coming upon the gap
> problem, so now I'm in make-it-work mode.
>
> I talked with Ken at Vans and he acted like he'd never seen this problem. He
> suggested attaching a matching piece of angle on the inside of the fuse to
> keep from squeezing the gusset and skin together.
>
> I've seen Gary Zilik's solution on his web site, but what have others done
> in this situation?
>
> TIA
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A spinner to tail
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: boost pump mounting |
Robert,
If you are willing to spend just a little extra time you can likely slip a
washer in between the skin and the gusset at the point where you drilled a
hole for the fuel line to go through the sidewall. If you are using a
grommet for the fuel line this hole should be plenty large. Just take a
little duct tape and put it on one side of the washer to angle it into place
for the fuel pump bolt. Pull the tape out when you have the bolt half way
through, holding the washer in place.
When I did it, I also super glued the bolt into place so as not to remove it
and drop the washer, 10 years from now when I replace the pump.
Good luck
Tom Olson
RV 6A, 298TC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: boost pump mounting
>
> I'm trying to install the fuel system on a -6A using Van's plans as
closely
> as possible. In mounting the boost pump as per drawing 49, however, I've
> come upon the problem of the gap between the gusset and the skin. I
drilled
> and mounted the pump as shown on the drawing before coming upon the gap
> problem, so now I'm in make-it-work mode.
>
> I talked with Ken at Vans and he acted like he'd never seen this problem.
He
> suggested attaching a matching piece of angle on the inside of the fuse to
> keep from squeezing the gusset and skin together.
>
> I've seen Gary Zilik's solution on his web site, but what have others done
> in this situation?
>
> TIA
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A spinner to tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leading edge mounting |
I'm trying to rivet the leading edge to the main spar on RV-7.
The plans call for AD470 rivets but I can't seem to get rivet gun flush on
the rivet head. The hole is way too close to the main wing rib to allow a
rivet gun in there. Then I had the idea to use CherryMax rivets and my
popriveter would even get close either.
How did you guys rivet the leading edge to the wing?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: STUFF FOR SALE! |
Hi, Interested in RV-8 Tail Kit, Price is $1100.00? Craig
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)megsinet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: STUFF FOR SALE!
>Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:00:31 -0600
>
>
>FOR SALE:
>
>VANS 0-360 Baffle Kit - brand new - in box (ended up with an IO360)
>Part # BAF-6-360. Sells new at Vans for $190
>............................................ $140
>
>Fixed Vertical Card Compass - brand new in box -from Aircraft Spruce
>Part # 8A1-700-14 (14volt). New at AC Spruce for
>$255............................$200
>
>VANS 0360 Filtered Airbox - brand new - in box
>Part#FAB-360. New at Vans for $120
>..........................................................$90
>
>VANS Throttle Mixture Cable Bracket - new
>Part# VA-149-1-PC KIT. New at Vans
>$12.61..............................................$9.50
>
>VANS Governor Cable Bracket - new
>Part # VA-153-PC. New at Vans
>$10.71........................................................$8
>
>VANS Fuel Pump Fittings (all 4 new)
>Parts # KB-000, 045, 090, 090-T. New at Vans
>$29........................................$22
>
>VANS RV8 3 Lever Quadrant - new
>Part # CT 83F. New at Vans
>$45......................................................................$34
>
>VANS Exhaust Pipe Gaskets - 4 brand new
>Part # EA GASKET 77611. New at Vans
>$5.23/ea...........................................$4/ea
>
>VANS Carb Heat Muff - new
>Part # EA CARB HEAT MUFF. New at Vans
>$22.5.........................................$16
>
>RV8 Tail Kit - hs and vs complete, excellent workmanship, primed
>all unused parts inventoried in bags.
>New at Vans $1600
>+...........................................................................
>...............$1100
>
>14 brand new REM40E Spark Plugs, in vacuum pack, never opened
>New at AC SPruce -
>$16.50/ea...................................................................
>.......$12/ea
>
>AVERY TOOLS "UhOh" hole saver rivet kit, brand new, never opened
>part
>#1097.......................................................................
>....................................$19
>
>ICOM IC-A22 HANDHELD TRANCEIVER - used
>Very good condition, in original box hardly ever used. Sells new for
>$549........................................................................
>.............................................$415
>
>-Michael Sices
>RV8 Kenosha, Wi
>
>If interested, please reply to me at msices(at)core.com. Will ship anywhere
>for cost of shipping.
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Follow Up - January 13, 2002 |
Dennis, I'm curious, why do you forward the SMBC recap to the RV-List?
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Follow Up - January 13, 2002
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: 2wienceks
> To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
> Subject: Follow Up - January 13, 2002
>
>
> Hello gang!
>
>
> What a day this was! A real "sleeper"! When I sent out a destination
> suggestion mid day yesterday, I did so only because at the relatively
> last minute, I found out that the weather was going to be nice. The
> late notice made me think we would have a light crowd. Well, I was
> wrong before, and I was wrong today! We had a whale of a turn out....
>
> I was solo in the RV6
> Bob and Nancy in the Yak
> Greg, Alex, and Ruth in a Skyhawk (first timers!)
> Dick solo in the RV6
> Steve M. solo in the C152
> Dennis B. solo in the Yankee
> Chuck and Phil in the RV6
> Gregg, Dan, and Dave in the Tiger
> Rosemary and Leroy in the Skyhawk
> John and Bernie in the Glassair
> John H. solo in the Traveler
> Gary L. solo in the C140
> Tom and Bruce in the Bonanza
> Gene D. and Larry N. in the C182 (first time for Larry)
> Bob B. and John G. in the Cheetah
> Lee W. solo in the RV6A
> Terry K solo in the C414, and met brother Bob who drove!
> Bill and Jerry in the Mooney
> Pete and Kate in the C180
> Dennis F. solo in the Tailwind
> George R, Jim J, and Ron in the C210
> Cissy and Dave in the Decathlon (first timers!)
> Don M. solo in the Ercoupe
> Gordon and Frieda in the C182
>
> I THINK I have everyone. This makes 41 members, and 24 planes! WOW!
> I hope I captured everyone.
>
> As I suggested yesterday, we made Rantoul our destination. The weather
> on our departure from the Chicago area was between clear/sunshine and
> high broken clouds, depending on where you left from. Winds were from
> the south at 10 or so. Excellent visibility... for a change! And,
> for those members reading this from warmer climates (you know who you
> are!), no snow to be found, and temps rose to around 40 by mid day! Not
> a bad day... for JANUARY in Chicago!
>
> The pilots of the faster planes got the duty of driving the gang to/from
> the Red Wheel Restaurant. So, thanks to Lee and Chuck for pulling duty
> in this regard... no small feat given the size of our group today. The
> restaurant was just great. They seated us in our own private room, and
> we were served by an excellent waitress... who somehow managed to keep
> everyone's orders and checks straight. Food was top notch too. I
> would recommend this place again. Perhaps we can do this in the
> spring..and go to the museum afterwards.
>
> After a LOT of hanger flying and great fun, we headed back to the FBO.
> Lee and I did driving honors for the return leg. Terry's brother Bob
> helped out on both trips too (he drove from his home in Paxton). We all
> pitched in for some fuel for the two tired (but dependable) courtesy
> cars, and thanked our FBO hosts for a most enjoyable day. Don't forget
> to check out the picture of the Rantoul ramp.. ALL the planes you will
> see are from the SMBC! Quite an AIR FORCE. Afghanistan would be
> jealous!
>
> Most the gang headed to.... Morris for pie! I lifted off and hung
> around for a few minutes waiting for Bob and Nancy in the Yak to lift
> off. On the way to Morris, I snapped some shots of them and new members
> Dave and Cissy in their Decathlon. We landed at Morris to a full
> restaurant.. including three Army choppers. I hoped they were there
> for pie too! Also, when we arrived at Morris, we were greeted by
> members Randy and friend Ken in the Cheetah, Joe F. (by car!), Barry M,
> and Tony D.
>
> I'd have to rate this day a "9" out of "10".. the only drawback it was
> not 75 degrees! It was a great day to be up flying. Hope to see you
> all next week, and a "come on back" to new members, Larry, Dave and
> Cissy, Greg, Alex and Ruth!
>
>
> Mark
>
>
> PS: Sun and Fun count down... just 12 weeks!
>
> Also.. stay tuned for an upcoming event.. breakfast at Griffith and
> private tour of the G&N engine facility. I will be looking into
> scheduling this for Sunday, February 10. This is tentative.. more
> details to follow. As with the American Champion tour.. I will be
> asking for a show of hands to gauge if we have a suitable group to ask
> G&N to provide us the tour.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge mounting |
>
>I'm trying to rivet the leading edge to the main spar on RV-7.
>The plans call for AD470 rivets but I can't seem to get rivet gun flush on
>the rivet head. The hole is way too close to the main wing rib to allow a
>rivet gun in there. Then I had the idea to use CherryMax rivets and my
>popriveter would even get close either.
>
>How did you guys rivet the leading edge to the wing?
>
>Thankx
>Steve
>RV-7A
>http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
Steve,
On my -8 I used a double offset rivet set (from Avery I think). I ground
down and polished one side of the set to get a bit more clearance from the
rib. I put a bunch of duct tape on the rivet gun, so it wouldn't mar the
ribs, put hockey shin pad tape on the rivet heads, and gave them heck. I
was worried about this task, but it went very well.
The biggest problem I have with double offset rivet sets is that they
always want to rotate in the rivet gun, which changes the angle that the
set makes with the rivet head. I use a couple of strips of duct tape to
tie the set to the rivet gun, and cut down on the tendency for the set to
rotate.
If you want to drive to Ottawa and back sometime you can borrow my rivet
set. I'm on the road right now, but hope to be back home in a few days.
Good luck,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge mounting |
Steve,
I agree that this area really "sucks" to rivet as Van describes. I made a
special bucking bar which allowed me to back rivet that area. I installed
the manufactured head from the front (top in the jig). The bucking bar
(with 1/8" universal set installed) was held against the head. I had local
RV-6 builder Eric Hensen back rivet the shop head from below using the same
Avery back riveting set used for back riveting the wing skins. (Avery part
# 4580)
Go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Useful%20Tools/
To learn how to make this special bucking bar. This method worked great. I
would suggest placing some duct tape on the wing main rib near where the
Avery back riveting set will be used. This is to prevent scratches in case
the tool slips. Feel free to email me with any questions you have.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I'm trying to rivet the leading edge to the main spar on RV-7.
>The plans call for AD470 rivets but I can't seem to get rivet gun flush on
>the rivet head. The hole is way too close to the main wing rib to allow a
>rivet gun in there. Then I had the idea to use CherryMax rivets and my
>popriveter would even get close either.
>
>How did you guys rivet the leading edge to the wing?
>
>Thankx
>Steve
>RV-7A
>http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
>
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: popping noise |
sted by: Robert Blum
> >
> > I have occasionally noted a loud low pitched thump when I am in a
> sustained
> > climb or descent. It sounds as though it is coming from behind me in
the
> > fusilege or empinage area of my RV6a
This was covered a number of years ago, it is probably oil canning in the
belly skin just behind the baggage bulkhead. Unless the plans have changed,
it is a very large area without a stiffener. Some have riveted a .025" by
3/4" angle in there, others have prosealed one or two stiffeners in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 80 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
| Subject: | Panel in the rear of an -8... |
I was just browsing around the net tonight and came across Ed Kowalski's
RV-8 Project... Just followed a link from my own web site.....ha ha!
Anyway, check out the rear seat inst. panel...
http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~bkowalsk/index6.htm
Home page: http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~bkowalsk/
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: boost pump mounting |
The squeeze is not that bad. Use a larger washer. Once your wings are on,
you won't care. Build it and fly it...that's my new motto now. Next
airplane I build I won't spend near as much time scratching my head over the
little stuff!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: boost pump mounting
>
> I'm trying to install the fuel system on a -6A using Van's plans as
closely
> as possible. In mounting the boost pump as per drawing 49, however, I've
> come upon the problem of the gap between the gusset and the skin. I
drilled
> and mounted the pump as shown on the drawing before coming upon the gap
> problem, so now I'm in make-it-work mode.
>
> I talked with Ken at Vans and he acted like he'd never seen this problem.
He
> suggested attaching a matching piece of angle on the inside of the fuse to
> keep from squeezing the gusset and skin together.
>
> I've seen Gary Zilik's solution on his web site, but what have others done
> in this situation?
>
> TIA
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A spinner to tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator jig rv6a |
Hey tampa man, i'm here in TN trying to build a Rv-6a fuselage. I've the
wooden pieces somewhere that I can probably draw the angles onto a piece of
paper and either mail or fax to you. send me your address or fax and I can
do this tomorrow night and either fax on wed or mail drawing. once you have
the angles, you can build the jig piece i'm sure.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator jig rv6a
>
> Dear Listers
> well i received the parts i needed from Vans to build the elevators that
the
> burglar destroyed. Vans had a left elevator already built, but i have to
> build the right elevator. i had given away all my wing, rudder, elevator,
> aileron , flap, jigs to a local rocket builder who seems to have droped
off
> the face of the planet, and i can't get in touch with him, so i can't get
my
> jigs back. what i need is someone to show me where in the prints is there
a
> pattern so i can make another set.
> any info would help.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
> i thought i was done riviting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Talked with Van's today concerning routing fuel vent lines and where to
put the hole in the fuselage to enter the tubing. They were quick to
give me an alternative routing which is coiling 4 to 5 turns of tubing
and keeping it inside the wing root as an alternative to entering the
fuselage. As I mentioned to him it didn't seem like there would be
enough height of the tube in this arrangement to prevent siphoning. He
said others have started doing it this way and is working ok. Have any
of you heard anything about this? Otherwise exactly where did you put
the entrance hole for the vent--forward or aft of F602, above or below
horizontal stringer? Is a 90 degree elbow a good idea?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge mounting |
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
> I'm trying to rivet the leading edge to the main spar on RV-7.
> The plans call for AD470 rivets but I can't seem to get rivet gun flush on
> the rivet head. The hole is way too close to the main wing rib to allow a
> rivet gun in there. Then I had the idea to use CherryMax rivets and my
> popriveter would even get close either.
>
> How did you guys rivet the leading edge to the wing?
To get a really good square shot at these you not only need the offset rivet
set but need to grind one side of the offset flat and put some duct tape on
the flat to keep from scratching the rib. Seems like a pretty drastic thing
to do to a nice tool, but those are pretty important rivets holding the
leading ege ribs on.
Just about to shoot those same rivets on the right wing. Left wing turned out
fine with the offset rivet set.
-Dan Masys
-7A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: popping noise |
After I spent nine months refurbishing our 172 including a darker paint
colour on the fuselage top and the wing leading edges, it made lots of metal
sounds after shutdown.
It was the different temperature, thin sheet metal heating up after descent-
I could actually see it pop in some places.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: popping noise
>
> I get it about 2 minutes after being on the ground under certain
temperature
> conditions. Sounds like a skin popping out if you were to push on it and
> let it go. I think it might be a skin that is just not quite tight
> enough...could very well be the same thing on yours.
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Blum" <bob(at)theblums.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: popping noise
>
>
> >
> > I have occasionally noted a loud low pitched thump when I am in a
> sustained
> > climb or descent. It sounds as though it is coming from behind me in
the
> > fusilege or empinage area of my RV6a. I don't feel any vibration when
it
> > occurs.
> >
> > My first thought is that it is related to cooling/heating of the skin.
> Has
> > anyone experienced anything similar?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
don't work all that well. At Jackpot, NV the sandy desert soil was a
problem, even screwing them in all the way they weren't all that solid
feeling. The next morning I was able to simply pull on the rope and
remove them. I repeated this same problem in BC. If the soil is dry
the same effect as stripping threads seems to occur. The cheater bar
helps some, but often I was unable to keep the tie-downs screwing into
the earth such that they didn't displace some soil and then have zero
hold-down capability. I would guess that those tie-downs made from
three joined stakes would work in these conditions best. Kevin Lane
-6A (700+ hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Coonan" <gcoonan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
I would also be interested.
Gary M. Coonan
RV-7 Fuselage
989WT
Rockvale, TN
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sanford
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket
Hello All,
I am on the "homestretch" of my RV-8 project and will be installing
insulation in various areas of the cockpit to both insulate and reduce
noise. The material that I am going to use is manufactured by Orcon, a
supplier to commercial aircraft manufacturers and is identical to that
used to insulate their fuselages. It is a fiberglass-type with both
sides covered by a high-tech material that prevents the insulation from
giving you "the fiber itch" and also provides some degree of fire
protection for a short period of time.
The factory was kind enough to provide me with enough material to
experiment on the best way to fashion the insulation during the project
and that's my next task. As with so many others that have gone before me
and made cottage industries out of small aspects of the aircraft
building "adventure", I have a question for you: are there any RV-8
builders that would be interested in purchasing an insulation package
for their project? As I've said, I'm not sure how the final product
would look, but I am thinking that it would be a number of individual
numbered pieces each sized for their area and possibly held secure with
Velcro tape. Of course the area for the back-seater would be covered by
the floor panels and I envision either cloth side covers or super
lightweight aerospace hardcover material for the sidewalls (your choice,
of course-I'm just the insulation guy).
The price? I'm not sure yet depending upon time and materials. I'm just
trying to gage interest. Maybe around a hundred bucks or so?-Just a
guess. I DO know that after flying around in the back seat of my buddy's
RV-8 that any help on the cold-soak issue would be welcome.
If you're at all interested, send me a note and I'll keep you advised of
what I find and my progress. Thanks for your time.
Bill Sanford
N511SF
bsanford(at)silverlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM vs. Fuel burn (flowmeters) |
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I completely overlooked the need to include the leaning method used.
To further muddy the waters, I was planning on using the AvMix sensor that
uses an automotive oxygen sensor for leaning.
Thanks again,
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RPM vs. Fuel burn (flowmeters)
>
> Scott,
>
> Agree with your note except maybe the last statement about the flow meter.
> The BSFC number equal to .435 depends also on your leaning to correct
value.
> I really enjoy my flow meter . When I am at 65% (mp+rpm in hundreds= 45),
I
> can get fuel flow to vary by at least .5 gph and not be able to detect it
in
> rpm or roughness of the engine. Maybe you can do just as well without the
> flowmeter, but it is satisfying to me.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla, 250+hours of grin time
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > I plan to placard my panel with the three sums that represent 75, 65,
and
> > 55% power along with the burn in lbs or gallons. That should save the
cost
> > of a flowmeter.....
> > Scott in VAncouver
> > -6 finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
Kevin Lane said:
> I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
> have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
> don't work all that well
[snip]
I would guess that those tie-downs made from
> three joined stakes would work in these conditions best.
I had the joined stakes type (two, not three crossed pieces of tubing welded
together, and two large spikes for each of three tie-down points) and just
got sick of carting around all that weight and all those separate parts. Yes
they work well but after hauling them around plus a hammer to whack them in
with I decided I really needed something lighter and simpler. It is a
tradeoff, and I agree that the 2 or 3 spike thing is undoubtedly better for
some conditions. But unless/until something better comes up that's light
and simple to use, I'm going stick with the titanium ones.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
I'm glad you had the courage to reply first as I feel the same way about
these tiedowns but the reports were so glowing as to their construction.
I'm sure they are a thing of beauty. It's just that I think there's a better
mousetrap and it's a smaller version of what the power-pole people use to
anchor all those pole-stabilizing wires to the ground.
It looks like a foot+-long, 3/8" diameter, steel pipe with about a
three-inch-diameter, auger welded to one end for one turn only. It goes in
the ground with a long screwdriver through the welded tie-down loop at the
top and me providing the twisting necessary and bites aggressively once it
gets going; which takes a little practice. It disturbs the soil very little
and provides(compared to the corkscrew or arrow styles) a huge bearing
surface to resist pullout.
I haven't tested to see just how much it does take, but it sure feels like
even our Suburban would be workin'. After extended periods in the ground
through floods, 65-mph winds etc., they show know no enlargement of the hole
at the surface and won't wobble at all. They will only come out by using the
screwdriver to "unscrew" them from the ground.
I bought a set of three from Sporty's. They're not much to look at, though.
Scott in Vancouver
-6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie-Downs
>
> I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
> have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
> don't work all that well. At Jackpot, NV the sandy desert soil was a
> problem, even screwing them in all the way they weren't all that solid
> feeling. The next morning I was able to simply pull on the rope and
> remove them. I repeated this same problem in BC. If the soil is dry
> the same effect as stripping threads seems to occur. The cheater bar
> helps some, but often I was unable to keep the tie-downs screwing into
> the earth such that they didn't displace some soil and then have zero
> hold-down capability. I would guess that those tie-downs made from
> three joined stakes would work in these conditions best. Kevin Lane
> -6A (700+ hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage tip |
Before you rip apart and toss your fuselage packing crate, check drawing
42 lower left corner. There you see the wood temporary floors you will
need later when you are finishing up the fuselage.
What you can do is take the 3/8 thick packing board with the paper
backing and sandwich it together using liquid nails to get the 3/4 you
need for the temporary floors. Let dry then cut.
Saves you some bucks on the cost of 3/4 inch plywood and saves you an
hour or so going to get it. One of the 4x8 sheets in nice condition
should do it. You can pick the best sides to show. The paper backing
actually will help when you or whoever can fit is sliding around inside.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Canoe (finally!)
Moscow, ID 83843
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Hi Bill,
In a previous life I had the opportunity to be on a 747 "cabin crew" (short
for insulation grunges) and worked with Orotek for a good deal of time. It
is great stuff and I've used it to insulate my RV6 about two months ago.
Here's what I did,
OrcoTek between all seat ribs & baggage ribs on floor, in the baggage
sidwalls and behind bulkead. For firewall I'm using a silicone impregnated
fiberglass mat for combination insulation and sound deadning (I wouldn't use
Orcotek in extreme high heat areas), and solid insulation for the foward
floor. I'll get some pictures scanned and posted on my website of the
Orcotek so people can see what you are referring too.
If you are brave enought to spend all the time cutting and taping to put
together a kit, I say GO FOR IT. If you can keep the cost reasonable, I
think lot's of people would buy a pre-make "kit" of insulation shapes. Even
thought the Orcotek is enclosed, after cutting and taping for a little
while, you'll still be plenty itchy!
If anyone's interested, I think I still have about 10' x 24" of the stuff
left. If you send me your snailmail address offline, I'd be happy to send
you a free sample. Only one caveat, if you buy this yourself it can get
expensive, it lists for about $8.00/foot, but if you buy it bulk you can
save money. Also, the insulation is NOT fireproof, just fire retartdent.
The fiberglass won't burn, but the encapsulating material will, if exposed
to direct flame (ala Swissair MD-11).
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis,
Finishing the Finish Kit & looking for a hangar.
I am on the "homestretch" of my RV-8 project and will be installing
insulation in various areas of the cockpit to both insulate and reduce
noise. The material that I am going to use is manufactured by Orcon, a
supplier to commercial aircraft manufacturers and is identical to that
used to insulate their fuselages. It is a fiberglass-type with both
sides covered by a high-tech material that prevents the insulation from
giving you "the fiber itch" and also provides some degree of fire
protection for a short period of time.
The factory was kind enough to provide me with enough material to
experiment on the best way to fashion the insulation during the project
and that's my next task.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
Hi Kevin, and list,
Boy, Jackpot, NV's soil, now that' really something. I made a stop there
two summers ago while on a group flight to the Grand Canyon. The driver of
the first plane to land decided to just pull off to the side of the runway
so he wouldn't have to taxi very far to make room for the rest of us to
land, and look what happened:
http://www.airtimemfg.com/grandflight/atJackpotNV.jpg
That sandy soil was so saturated that it was a quagmire. Totally dry on the
surface, but goopy mud and standing water an inch below (and it was a hot
day, on the ground).
There are a few situations where my titanium Ti-downs don't work. Pavement,
concrete, and packed gravel is all too hard. Sand is too soft. They work
good for just about everything in between, tho.
There are hundreds of people on this list now that have my Ti-downs, all
over the US and Canada. Has anyone else had a problem with them not working
at times?
I know in all my aircamping adventures and fly-ins, I've never been in a
situation where my Ti-downs didn't work for me. I'm pretty sure my titanium
Ti-downs work better in rocky soil than the tie downs Scott describes below.
I welcome any feedback re my Ti-downs I can get, both positive and negative.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
p.s. for those of you still waiting for your Ti-downs, they'll be going out
wednesday and thursday of this week...
>
>I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
>have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
>don't work all that well. At Jackpot, NV the sandy desert soil was a
>problem, even screwing them in all the way they weren't all that solid
>feeling. The next morning I was able to simply pull on the rope and
>remove them. I repeated this same problem in BC. If the soil is dry
>the same effect as stripping threads seems to occur. The cheater bar
>helps some, but often I was unable to keep the tie-downs screwing into
>the earth such that they didn't displace some soil and then have zero
>hold-down capability. I would guess that those tie-downs made from
>three joined stakes would work in these conditions best. Kevin Lane
>-6A (700+ hrs)
>
and
>
> I'm glad you had the courage to reply first as I feel the same way about
>these tiedowns but the reports were so glowing as to their construction.
>I'm sure they are a thing of beauty. It's just that I think there's a better
>mousetrap and it's a smaller version of what the power-pole people use to
>anchor all those pole-stabilizing wires to the ground.
>It looks like a foot+-long, 3/8" diameter, steel pipe with about a
>three-inch-diameter, auger welded to one end for one turn only. It goes in
>the ground with a long screwdriver through the welded tie-down loop at the
>top and me providing the twisting necessary and bites aggressively once it
>gets going; which takes a little practice. It disturbs the soil very little
>and provides(compared to the corkscrew or arrow styles) a huge bearing
>surface to resist pullout.
>I haven't tested to see just how much it does take, but it sure feels like
>even our Suburban would be workin'. After extended periods in the ground
>through floods, 65-mph winds etc., they show know no enlargement of the hole
>at the surface and won't wobble at all. They will only come out by using the
>screwdriver to "unscrew" them from the ground.
>I bought a set of three from Sporty's. They're not much to look at, though.
>Scott in Vancouver
>-6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | elevator jig rv6a |
Scott: just take some particle board or other suitable material, take one of your
elevator
ribs, and place the rib on the particle board...then draw around it. Cut out along
the lines,
and voila'! You have one of the cradles for your jig.
This works for any other type of jig you need that serves as a "cradle" - ailerons,
flaps,
rudder, leading edge, and fuel tanks.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (left wing fuel tank and leading edge)
>
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator jig rv6a
>
>
> Dear Listers
> well i received the parts i needed from Vans to build the elevators that the
> burglar destroyed. Vans had a left elevator already built, but i have to
> build the right elevator. i had given away all my wing, rudder, elevator,
> aileron , flap, jigs to a local rocket builder who seems to have droped off
> the face of the planet, and i can't get in touch with him, so i can't get my
> jigs back. what i need is someone to show me where in the prints is there a
> pattern so i can make another set.
> any info would help.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
> i thought i was done riviting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
01/15/2002 07:28:27 AM
I too became interested in this spray paint box .... particularly since it
is winter and I spent all afternoon and evening Sunday priming parts in my
workshop (cough, cough .... with respirator of course). I had to run the
kids out everytime they came to see me. I have been placing a window fan
in an open window and getting some draft through my shop as a spray. The
box idea, however, will do a much better job of getting the overspray out
and away from inside. Anyway .... I called a fellow pilot / friend of mine
that does home and commercial H&V work for advice on an easy fan /duct
system to use. He said to ask for an "in duct exhaust fan," some 6" flex
duct, and some collars for fitting the duct to the box, etc. "In duct
exhaust fans" are used in homes to boost the air flow without having to
tear into walls, etc. The fans are 110 volt, supposedly spark proof, and
allegedly cost between 20 and 30 dollars. I'm going to check it out this
week at a local H&V parts store. I plan to mount my fan (or fans - I might
get 2) on a board that will fit into a window opening. THen, I will run
flex duct to the box. I figure I can make the box so that I can store my
painting materials in it when not in use (getting double duty out of this
contraption that will obviously take up space). I don't intend to take
much time constructing it (in fact, I have even considered using an empty
appliance box). I think it will be worth the time considering all the ribs
and other parts that await me).
RV7 elevators
Ellis McGaughy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Installing Insulation |
I would be interested in a made-up insulation package and I have a
question for those that have already finished their planes.
When would you add the insulation/sound deadener to an area like the
backside of the Firewall??? Before or after all the cable, plumbing, and
wiring penetrations are made?
Seems like it will be a problem either way; drill & chassis punch
through insulation OR cutting all the holes and access slits for
installation afterward. Thanks for any advise!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Bill,
I would be interested in a package also...just wish the front wasn't
closed up now. Hope it would be easy to install at this point.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronics International |
| From: | Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com> |
I want to relay my experience with EI.
I am upgrading my EGT/CHT to a digital unit from EI.
I ordered what I thought I need probe wise from Spruce and ended up short
some stuff - not totally there fault, but when I called back they didn't
have the probe extension I needed. Just to be sure I called the factory to
make sure I was getting everything I needed.
Well, the fellow I talked to was extremely helpful. First, he told me I
probably needed a harness kit(and you probably will need some extra
connectors), he also suggested I go with a bayonet CHT. I then explained the
silk screening was damaged on my gauge. He said, we better put a face plate
in there also(NC, btw).
First I didn't buy the gauge from them. What I ended up buying was the OAT
probe, and an extension cable. In addition, he included a manual, a CHT
probe(asked me to send the one I didn't use back in exchange), a harness kit
with extra connectors, a faceplate.
I've always heard good things about EI - this is excellent service.
--
Shelby Smith
Beech Party 2001 pictures available @
http://www.pbase.com/shelbyrv6a/beech_party_2001
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 located @
The EAA Complex / Smyrna TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel vent-RV6 |
that would make since.
since i held off drilling those holes all these years because i wasn't sure
where to drill them. i drilled them last night and today there is an
alternative method which i like already. darn, if i waited 1 more day. you
say van approves of just coiling 4-5 loops and how do you terminate, just
like the plans, with a fitting cut at a 45 degree, and where do you exit,
under the wing root?
scott
tampa
cold and wet
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 164DF Make/Model: RV6 Description: 1999 VANS RV-6
Date: 01/10/2002 Time: 2153
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Substantial
LOCATION
City: SAN JOSE State: CA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
AIRCRAFT GROUND LOOPED DURING LANDING ROLLOUT ON RWY 31L, LEFT LANDING GEAR
COLLAPSED DAMAGING FIREWALL, LEFT WING TIP, AND AILERON, SAN JOSE, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
01/15/2002 08:42:11 AM
John, How's your SL360 kit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Insulation |
I waited until the very end of the project, just before I put my top skin
on. I had to cut the slits and holes in the material, but it wasn't that
bad. The hardest part was getting the spray glue on the firewall and not on
everything else. It wasn't too bad, though. If I were to do it again, I'd
probably put the material on early in (with no rudder pedals or anything)
and then poke through it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Installing Insulation
>
> I would be interested in a made-up insulation package and I have a
> question for those that have already finished their planes.
> When would you add the insulation/sound deadener to an area like the
> backside of the Firewall??? Before or after all the cable, plumbing, and
> wiring penetrations are made?
> Seems like it will be a problem either way; drill & chassis punch
> through insulation OR cutting all the holes and access slits for
> installation afterward. Thanks for any advise!
> Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronics International |
I second this experience with EI. Several years ago, my dogs were in the
garage for the night, as it was cold and rainy. One of my dogs decided to
open a box of instruments that were on the floor, and chewed the harness
right off of my EI fuel gauge. I called EI and told them what happened.
They said to send it back to them. I did, with a letter telling what
happened, and to send me an invoice for the repairs.
About a week later, it shows up completely re wired, calibrated, and tested.
On the invoice it was printed from their computer, something like "Please do
not allow your dogs access to your instruments. We understand that
sometimes instruments can be mistaken for food."
Here is the best part: When I was about to throw the box away, I saw a
ziplock bag sticking up from the packing material. I took it out and inside
it was a dog biscuit!
All for no charge.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shelby Smith" <rvaitor(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electronics International
>
> I want to relay my experience with EI.
>
> I am upgrading my EGT/CHT to a digital unit from EI.
>
> I ordered what I thought I need probe wise from Spruce and ended up short
> some stuff - not totally there fault, but when I called back they didn't
> have the probe extension I needed. Just to be sure I called the factory to
> make sure I was getting everything I needed.
>
> Well, the fellow I talked to was extremely helpful. First, he told me I
> probably needed a harness kit(and you probably will need some extra
> connectors), he also suggested I go with a bayonet CHT. I then explained
the
> silk screening was damaged on my gauge. He said, we better put a face
plate
> in there also(NC, btw).
>
> First I didn't buy the gauge from them. What I ended up buying was the OAT
> probe, and an extension cable. In addition, he included a manual, a CHT
> probe(asked me to send the one I didn't use back in exchange), a harness
kit
> with extra connectors, a faceplate.
>
> I've always heard good things about EI - this is excellent service.
>
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> Beech Party 2001 pictures available @
> http://www.pbase.com/shelbyrv6a/beech_party_2001
> 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 located @
> The EAA Complex / Smyrna TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Stein,
How many ft
2 of material did you use or do you think
would be needed to fully insulate the fusalage?
Thanks,
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Wings
--- Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> In a previous life I had the opportunity to be on a
> 747 "cabin crew" (short
> for insulation grunges) and worked with Orotek for a
> good deal of time. It
> is great stuff and I've used it to insulate my RV6
> about two months ago.
> Here's what I did,
>
> OrcoTek between all seat ribs & baggage ribs on
> floor, in the baggage
> sidwalls and behind bulkead. For firewall I'm using
> a silicone impregnated
> fiberglass mat for combination insulation and sound
> deadning (I wouldn't use
> Orcotek in extreme high heat areas), and solid
> insulation for the foward
> floor. I'll get some pictures scanned and posted on
> my website of the
> Orcotek so people can see what you are referring
> too.
>
> If you are brave enought to spend all the time
> cutting and taping to put
> together a kit, I say GO FOR IT. If you can keep
> the cost reasonable, I
> think lot's of people would buy a pre-make "kit" of
> insulation shapes. Even
> thought the Orcotek is enclosed, after cutting and
> taping for a little
> while, you'll still be plenty itchy!
>
> If anyone's interested, I think I still have about
> 10' x 24" of the stuff
> left. If you send me your snailmail address
> offline, I'd be happy to send
> you a free sample. Only one caveat, if you buy this
> yourself it can get
> expensive, it lists for about $8.00/foot, but if you
> buy it bulk you can
> save money. Also, the insulation is NOT fireproof,
> just fire retartdent.
> The fiberglass won't burn, but the encapsulating
> material will, if exposed
> to direct flame (ala Swissair MD-11).
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis,
> Finishing the Finish Kit & looking for a hangar.
>
>
> I am on the "homestretch" of my RV-8 project and
> will be installing
> insulation in various areas of the cockpit to both
> insulate and reduce
> noise. The material that I am going to use is
> manufactured by Orcon, a
> supplier to commercial aircraft manufacturers and is
> identical to that
> used to insulate their fuselages. It is a
> fiberglass-type with both
> sides covered by a high-tech material that prevents
> the insulation from
> giving you "the fiber itch" and also provides some
> degree of fire
> protection for a short period of time.
>
> The factory was kind enough to provide me with
> enough material to
> experiment on the best way to fashion the insulation
> during the project
> and that's my next task.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
In a message dated 1/15/2002 6:55:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 164DF Make/Model: RV6 Description: 1999 VANS RV-6
> Date: 01/10/2002 Time: 2153
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Substantial
>
> LOCATION
> City: SAN JOSE State: CA Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> AIRCRAFT GROUND LOOPED DURING LANDING ROLLOUT ON RWY 31L, LEFT LANDING
> GEAR
> COLLAPSED DAMAGING FIREWALL, LEFT WING TIP, AND AILERON, SAN JOSE, CA
>
Ed-
What did our buddy Dick do wrong?
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
I don't believe that any one type of tie-down is best for all soil
conditions. The auger type has a very difficult time with the rocky soil at
Oshkosh. Even a drive in doesn't always go in. Corkscrew some times works
except when the soil gets wet and then they will pull out. These
observations from 30 years of having a plane or two blow over at the
convention. Fortunately, we don't have a big blow every year nor saturated
soils. Doggy style will break and will pull out if you don't put them down
all the way. Tent pegs meet the "spirit" that you have to be tied down, but
they look weird when laying on the wing when the plane is upside down or
hanging from the tail wheel.
I have gone out and double staked many planes before a blow. Never lost one
of those. When a plane comes in for repairs, the first thing we do is drive
stakes and tie down.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie-Downs
I'm glad you had the courage to reply first as I feel the same way about
these tiedowns but the reports were so glowing as to their construction.
I'm sure they are a thing of beauty. It's just that I think there's a better
mousetrap and it's a smaller version of what the power-pole people use to
anchor all those pole-stabilizing wires to the ground.
It looks like a foot+-long, 3/8" diameter, steel pipe with about a
three-inch-diameter, auger welded to one end for one turn only. It goes in
the ground with a long screwdriver through the welded tie-down loop at the
top and me providing the twisting necessary and bites aggressively once it
gets going; which takes a little practice. It disturbs the soil very little
and provides(compared to the corkscrew or arrow styles) a huge bearing
surface to resist pullout.
I haven't tested to see just how much it does take, but it sure feels like
even our Suburban would be workin'. After extended periods in the ground
through floods, 65-mph winds etc., they show know no enlargement of the hole
at the surface and won't wobble at all. They will only come out by using the
screwdriver to "unscrew" them from the ground.
I bought a set of three from Sporty's. They're not much to look at, though.
Scott in Vancouver
-6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie-Downs
>
> I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
> have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
> don't work all that well. At Jackpot, NV the sandy desert soil was a
> problem, even screwing them in all the way they weren't all that solid
> feeling. The next morning I was able to simply pull on the rope and
> remove them. I repeated this same problem in BC. If the soil is dry
> the same effect as stripping threads seems to occur. The cheater bar
> helps some, but often I was unable to keep the tie-downs screwing into
> the earth such that they didn't displace some soil and then have zero
> hold-down capability. I would guess that those tie-downs made from
> three joined stakes would work in these conditions best. Kevin Lane
> -6A (700+ hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spray paint box |
I too built a simple painting shelf with exhaust fan. See
http://www.hroads.net/~john/rvmain.htm#toolsprimebooth
The overall site address is http://www.hroads.net/~john/rvindex.htm but many
other sites are better.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Insulation |
I installed the insulation on the cabin-side firewall after all penetrations
were made. I first cut paper patterns in the appropriate geometric shapes
to fit between angles and then punched holes with sharpened tube ends, with
a slit to go around whatever penetrated the firewall.
I would think that making penetrations after insulation installation would
be messy. The stainless steel firewall leaves killer burrs when you make a
hole and deburring with insulation on one side seems like it would make a
mess.
I'd suggest you put a propane torch flame to any insulation you're going to
use. My first sheet of "FAA approved" (a misnomer - FAA only approves test
procedures) insulation supported combustion and burned merrily while
releasing a choking, eye-watering smoke. It seems that the approved test is
to put the flame in the center of a couple-of-foot square piece. When you
have a large perimeter-to-area ratio, as with lots of little
triangular-shaped pieces on the firewall, the material flunks the test. The
edges burn quite readily.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Installing Insulation
>
> I would be interested in a made-up insulation package and I have a
> question for those that have already finished their planes.
> When would you add the insulation/sound deadener to an area like the
> backside of the Firewall??? Before or after all the cable, plumbing, and
> wiring penetrations are made?
> Seems like it will be a problem either way; drill & chassis punch
> through insulation OR cutting all the holes and access slits for
> installation afterward. Thanks for any advise!
> Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What alternator is this? |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
01/15/2002 11:02:44 AM
THE ALT SHOULD BE 95AMP BUT IT SHOULD BE ON THE DATA TAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RVs in Kingston Area |
Are there any RVers in the Kingston, Ontario area?
I'm looking for a riveting buddy.
Thankx
Steve Hurlbut
Kingston, Ont
613-542-9556
RV-7A
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Injected fuel filters |
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Injected fuel filters |
Ed,
Mine is in the tunnel just ahead of the spar in my
RV4. Easy to get to and can catch any fuel when
removing the filter assbly.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Doo-Hickeys |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:39:43 PM
Engine guys, (which is everyone compared to me)
Q1: What is the official name of the screw studs that come out of the
engine case and hold on the oil pan? (Charley if you say "screw stud oil
pan holder-on'ers" I'll ding your wing skins).
Q2: How hard is it to change them? Is it a not for do-it yourselfers kind
of thing?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Folks,
This past weekend I removed the inspection covers underneath the HS and
attached some soffit vent I found at the local hardware store. I cut
the soffit and duct-taped it in place, with the louvers facing aft.
During flight testing, I noticed no decrease in air coming past the
baggage compartment bulkhead. However, I noticed no smell from exhaust
when landing. Still had that cold breeze on my neck. I landed, then
took some electrical tape and taped closed all gaps in the tail
area--along the edges of the tail fairing, under the HS, around the hole
where the tailwheel exits, etc. Flew again, and noticed no reduction in
the amount of air coming into the cabin. Still no smell anymore.
Hmmm. So where is all this air coming from? My guess is its coming
from the hole aft of the HS for the elevator weldments to pass into the
fuse. I don't see how it could be coming through the seams in the belly
skins. I did some more testing the next day with tape covering the gaps
around the tailwheel intersection and concluded that the exhaust smell
was coming in through there. This may explain why some don't encounter
this, obviously because not every RV has a tailwheel, or there are
variances in the gaps between the skin and the tailwheel weldment.
So, my conclusion is that putting an exit vent on the inspection cover
doesn't do anything to alleviate the draft, and neither does sealing the
tail area up.
Gary Graham was kind enough to send me some pictures of NACA vents in
the belly, and judging by the oil stains on them they look like they
work. He also sent me pictures of vents on the fuselage sides forward
of the inspection cover, just a little behind the leading edge of the
HS. Maybe that's a better location to vent, since the air in the very
aft part of the tail may be too turbulent to allow pressure to escape
with the air coming in through elev. holes and the smaller bulkheads in
there.
To be continued...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 263 hours
F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Doo-Hickeys |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
01/15/2002 01:35:28 PM
they are refered to by Lycoming and us as "studs". There are different
lengths and diameters for different applications.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
> I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
> have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
> don't work all that well........
I have a set of Randy's tie downs. Doesn't really matter what they look
like, even though they are a piece of metalic art. Doesn't matter how light
they are, although the whole set, driver and the bag weigh less than ONE of
my old tiedown stakes. What matters is how effective they are at keeping
your pride and joy tied to the ground when the air moves quickly by.
Cy is right: there is no one type that is going to be the best for all
situations. Your choices, however, are limited. You need the best type for
most situations, not all. I have had in the Cub a set made from discarded
"deadman" stakes from the power company. Those are those metal rods that
hold the support cables for power poles. Got some bent up ones from the
power company maintainance dump, cut them to size. They have served for 30
some years holding the Cub in some mighty strange wind situations. HOWever:
they are heavy, kind of long and heavy, and you need a rock or also heavy
hammer to drive them in. Driver Rocks are usually pretty easy to come by,
however. Did I mention they are heavy? Work well in the Cub.
Recently got a set of those that are three stainless steel stakes at an
angle through a Drylon center, made by Fly Ties out of California. Come in a
PVC pipe for safe keeping. They are somewhat lighter than my old ones (they
weigh about 5 pounds total with the pipe) , but take up a lot of room, even
in the Cub. The pipe is 26 inches long. That could be made smaller but the
whole set fits in it. Still need a hammer or rock to pound them in and there
are 9 stakes to pound. I think they are probably the best for most all
situations. Still heavy and bulky, though.
The auger type you find at farm supply stores seem to be too long and are
quite difficult to get in as far as you need them to go. Could work for some
situations, though. Like at the airport when you don't have to put them in
and take them out. Also heavy.
I have used Randy's now for 4 years and have yet to be in a situation that
they didn't hold. Yet. OSH this year, the ground was dry and hard. I was
waiting for the stakes to break getting torqued in. Of course, that didn't
happen. It was wet several years ago and they went in much easier and still
held well in a pretty good "breeze" that roared through the place. When
testing the holding ability, one needs to pull at about a 45 degree angle,
the same as the rope to the tiedown ring on the wing. For sandy soil they
are probably not the best. Or gravel/rocky stuff.
What one DOESN"T want to do is get a set of dog stake tiedowns, like you see
at OSH in the FlyMart for $2 each. Can't tell you how many of those we find
at OSH broken off at ground level. Not good for several reasons. We do have
multiple sets of tiedowns for those that forget theirs at OSH. They are
fashioned from a "T" welded from rebar rod. Havn't seen any of those pull
out or break.
RVs are pretty close to the ground and are not going to want to go flying
from a tiedown as much as a high wing, but flying is what they are want to
do and they will, given the right circumstances. I don't remember a low wing
pulling stakes at OSH.
Randy's tiedowns are a good compromize and a pretty good deal. They are on
my Get'em list.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Taildragger Endorsement |
| From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
01/15/2002 04:14:47 PM
If a tricycle gear pilot gets a conventional gear endorsement, does the
endorsement reset the clock on the biennial flight review?
My biennieal has expired and I am getting ready to take a 10 hour tailwheel
course. Will the course serve as my biennial? I wasn't sure if you had to
get a new rating such as IFR in order to reset the clock, and I haven't
been able to locate my F.A.R's since we moved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Endorsement |
Not automatically. I asked my CFI to do both the biennial and conventional
gear endorsement. Easy to do. This does require separate entries in the
log for each one.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (almost done, flying a Texas Taildragger in the meantime)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Taildragger Endorsement
>
> If a tricycle gear pilot gets a conventional gear endorsement, does the
> endorsement reset the clock on the biennial flight review?
> My biennieal has expired and I am getting ready to take a 10 hour
tailwheel
> course. Will the course serve as my biennial? I wasn't sure if you had
to
> get a new rating such as IFR in order to reset the clock, and I haven't
> been able to locate my F.A.R's since we moved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Endorsement |
Don,
The tailwheel endorsement does not require a pilot proficiency "check ride"
which is one of the acceptable substitutes for a flight review. I'd ask you
instructor to include a flight review endorsement when he gives you your
tailwheel endorsement. You certainly will meet the 1 hr. minium dual
required. Make sure you have one hour of ground as well and that should do
it.
-Don
RV8 NJ
CFII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie-Downs |
On this subject, has anyone used the thin aluminum "spoilers" that strap
across the top of the wing to destroy the lift while tied down?
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie-Downs
>
> > I too, bought a set of those gorgeous TI tie-downs. I however, actually
> > have used them several times. It has been my observation that they
> > don't work all that well........
>
> I have a set of Randy's tie downs. Doesn't really matter what they look
> like, even though they are a piece of metalic art. Doesn't matter how
light
> they are, although the whole set, driver and the bag weigh less than ONE
of
> my old tiedown stakes. What matters is how effective they are at keeping
> your pride and joy tied to the ground when the air moves quickly by.
>
> Cy is right: there is no one type that is going to be the best for all
> situations. Your choices, however, are limited. You need the best type for
> most situations, not all. I have had in the Cub a set made from discarded
> "deadman" stakes from the power company. Those are those metal rods that
> hold the support cables for power poles. Got some bent up ones from the
> power company maintainance dump, cut them to size. They have served for 30
> some years holding the Cub in some mighty strange wind situations.
HOWever:
> they are heavy, kind of long and heavy, and you need a rock or also heavy
> hammer to drive them in. Driver Rocks are usually pretty easy to come by,
> however. Did I mention they are heavy? Work well in the Cub.
>
> Recently got a set of those that are three stainless steel stakes at an
> angle through a Drylon center, made by Fly Ties out of California. Come in
a
> PVC pipe for safe keeping. They are somewhat lighter than my old ones
(they
> weigh about 5 pounds total with the pipe) , but take up a lot of room,
even
> in the Cub. The pipe is 26 inches long. That could be made smaller but the
> whole set fits in it. Still need a hammer or rock to pound them in and
there
> are 9 stakes to pound. I think they are probably the best for most all
> situations. Still heavy and bulky, though.
>
> The auger type you find at farm supply stores seem to be too long and are
> quite difficult to get in as far as you need them to go. Could work for
some
> situations, though. Like at the airport when you don't have to put them in
> and take them out. Also heavy.
>
> I have used Randy's now for 4 years and have yet to be in a situation that
> they didn't hold. Yet. OSH this year, the ground was dry and hard. I was
> waiting for the stakes to break getting torqued in. Of course, that didn't
> happen. It was wet several years ago and they went in much easier and
still
> held well in a pretty good "breeze" that roared through the place. When
> testing the holding ability, one needs to pull at about a 45 degree angle,
> the same as the rope to the tiedown ring on the wing. For sandy soil they
> are probably not the best. Or gravel/rocky stuff.
>
> What one DOESN"T want to do is get a set of dog stake tiedowns, like you
see
> at OSH in the FlyMart for $2 each. Can't tell you how many of those we
find
> at OSH broken off at ground level. Not good for several reasons. We do
have
> multiple sets of tiedowns for those that forget theirs at OSH. They are
> fashioned from a "T" welded from rebar rod. Havn't seen any of those pull
> out or break.
>
> RVs are pretty close to the ground and are not going to want to go flying
> from a tiedown as much as a high wing, but flying is what they are want to
> do and they will, given the right circumstances. I don't remember a low
wing
> pulling stakes at OSH.
>
> Randy's tiedowns are a good compromize and a pretty good deal. They are on
> my Get'em list.
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail venting |
Bob, you might want to review some of my recent posts as it seems your
redoing tests I've already done.
I found the same thing you did regarding the inspection holes. My conclusion
regarding where the air is getting in is the same. It was after this and
other tests that I installed a exit duct on the underside of the fuselage to
relieve the air
pressure in the tail. It is a little to small but still works well. A
slightly larger one would be perfect. The dimensions are in one of my Keeping
Warm posts.
Garry "Casper"
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> This past weekend I removed the inspection covers underneath the HS and
> attached some soffit vent I found at the local hardware store. I cut
> the soffit and duct-taped it in place, with the louvers facing aft.
> During flight testing, I noticed no decrease in air coming past the
> baggage compartment bulkhead.
Snip
>
>
> To be continued...
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 263 hours
> F1 under const.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Insulation (Att: Dennis Persyk) |
So what type of insulation did you end up using?
Dan
--- Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> I installed the insulation on the cabin-side
> firewall after all penetrations
> were made. I first cut paper patterns in the
> appropriate geometric shapes
> to fit between angles and then punched holes with
> sharpened tube ends, with
> a slit to go around whatever penetrated the
> firewall.
>
> I would think that making penetrations after
> insulation installation would
> be messy. The stainless steel firewall leaves
> killer burrs when you make a
> hole and deburring with insulation on one side seems
> like it would make a
> mess.
>
> I'd suggest you put a propane torch flame to any
> insulation you're going to
> use. My first sheet of "FAA approved" (a misnomer -
> FAA only approves test
> procedures) insulation supported combustion and
> burned merrily while
> releasing a choking, eye-watering smoke. It seems
> that the approved test is
> to put the flame in the center of a couple-of-foot
> square piece. When you
> have a large perimeter-to-area ratio, as with lots
> of little
> triangular-shaped pieces on the firewall, the
> material flunks the test. The
> edges burn quite readily.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Installing Insulation
>
>
>
> >
> > I would be interested in a made-up insulation
> package and I have a
> > question for those that have already finished
> their planes.
> > When would you add the insulation/sound
> deadener to an area like the
> > backside of the Firewall??? Before or after all
> the cable, plumbing, and
> > wiring penetrations are made?
> > Seems like it will be a problem either way;
> drill & chassis punch
> > through insulation OR cutting all the holes and
> access slits for
> > installation afterward. Thanks for any advise!
> > Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Wiring
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
The fellows name is Dick Wildman. He had recently purchased the aircraft from Don
Farrand, who was the original builder. Dick had recently finished tail wheel
training and a check out for insurance coverage with Robin Reid. On the day in
question he had gone down to Reid Hillveiw and had done 5 circuits and decided
to
do a 6th and then put the aircraft in the hanger. On the 6th one, as he was
rolling out, at about 30 MPH the aircraft was pulling to the right and nothing
he
could do would straighten it out. The aircraft veered off the runway, as it did
so the right gear collapsed, causing the wing and prop to hit the ground. At
first Dick thought that he had screwed up and ground looped it. After Robin
Reid inspected it he came to a different conclusion, that being the bolt that
holds the gear in place had loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong,
then eventually fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
This aircraft had a similar event last year when Don was flying, and Don had
replaced the motor mount and both gear legs. Aircraft time in service is between
two and three hundred hours.
This information is from a conversation with Dick Wildman.
Garry " Casper"
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 164DF Make/Model: RV6 Description: 1999 VANS RV-6
> Date: 01/10/2002 Time: 2153
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Substantial
>
> LOCATION
> City: SAN JOSE State: CA Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> AIRCRAFT GROUND LOOPED DURING LANDING ROLLOUT ON RWY 31L, LEFT LANDING GEAR
> COLLAPSED DAMAGING FIREWALL, LEFT WING TIP, AND AILERON, SAN JOSE, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Endorsement |
--- Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com wrote:
>
> If a tricycle gear pilot gets a conventional gear endorsement, does
> the
> endorsement reset the clock on the biennial flight review?
If the checkout includes airwork and he does the required ground work,
then of course.
Normally, however, a tailwheel endorsement will only include pattern
work as it doesn't change the way the bird flies.
If the aircraft and the instructor are priced to your liking, they will
probably perform a BFR for you while you get the endorsement.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel vent-RV6 |
In a message dated 1/15/02 12:45:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< Talked with Van's today concerning routing fuel vent lines and where to
put the hole in the fuselage to enter the tubing. They were quick to
give me an alternative routing which is coiling 4 to 5 turns of tubing
and keeping it inside the wing root as an alternative to entering the
fuselage. >>
On my aircraft, the belly mounted fuel vents occasionally vent an ounce or
two fuel if the tanks are completely filled and the airplane is left in the
sun. I assume thermal expansion of the fuel (or air) in the tanks is
responsible for this. If I was going to use coiled aluminum tubing inside
the wing root as a vent, I would be sure to put a hole in the wing root
fairing and run the vent tube out that hole. Otherwise, you could wind up
with a few stray ounces of fuel splashing around inside the wing roots, with
the vapors (at least) entering the cockpit.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | just talking about this |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Hmmm...does this warrant a castelled nut/cotter pin substitution for the
standard locknut arrangement?
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
So there you have insurance coverage for you baby, but then if you have an
actual claim you are held hostage between a Rock and a hard place!
Great business, this Insurance-BIZ I guess? Money in, but not out.
I would try to see if you can find new coverage first (with disclosure of
the claim against a competitor, of course), and if successful, claim the
claim, if at all possible. Worth a try.
Konrad
ABQ / NM
> There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made the claim for
> coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be terminated and find it very
> difficult to get insurance in the future.
> Garry "Casper"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | was, just talking about this; now, insurability |
Garry LeGare wrote:
>
>
> There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made the claim for
> coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be terminated and find it very
> difficult to get insurance in the future.
> Garry "Casper"
This leads to a question concerning aircraft insurance I have pondered
for a while and maybe one of the insurance types on the list can provide
enlightenment.
"What is the impact on future insurability when a major claim is made
for hull damage?"
I have suspected, but never had confirmed, that the scenario in the post
above would be the case if a major hull claim was made on one of our
planes. It is true the damages should be covered provided adequate
coverage is purchased, (and the insurance company can't find a "gotcha"
to enable them to wiggle out of paying...) but what happens when the
builder tries to insure the replacement aircraft? Is he insurable at a
reasonable rate or has he become an untouchable, uninsurable at anything
other than an exorbitant rate?
The tactic I have taken, which is unacceptable for probably many
builders, is to purchase ground-only coverage (that includes inflight
liability coverage) at a premium far below full hull coverage. I feel
that the most likely loss or damage to my plane will be due to a hangar
collapse or fire, storm damage, or theft/vandalism. I would certainly
prefer to repair the plane myself if it can be returned to service. If
an inflight mishap occurs (including takeoff or landings), I figure I
will either be dead or my future ability to buy insurance will be dead
if I file a major hull claim!
Basically, I am self-insuring my plane against inflight hull damage. I
have heard enough horror stories about pilots trying to achieve
satisfactory results from major insurance claims that I am willing to
roll the dice. The matter of liability exposure is a much more serious
issue with me than replacing a homemade airplane. If I survive a
crumpled RV, I suspect I will be better off taking the $$$ hit,
rebuilding or replacing the plane myself, having the ability to buy more
insurance in the future at semi-reasonable rates.
However.....I realize that I may have totally miscalculated this
situation, and I look forward to having somebody in the know demonstrate
the folly of my ways. However, I am afraid that the matter of
insurability following a major claim is an issue many pilots haven't
considered.
And even if I am more or less correct in my thinking, I realize this
tactic is certainly not acceptable to many pilots due to pschological or
financial reasons.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | just talking about this |
God, every RV I know has this set up. But I've never heard of a single
failure, let alone two on the same plane. What's up with that?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: TD Gear Mount Bolts, was: RV-List: just talking about this
>
> Hmmm...does this warrant a castelled nut/cotter pin substitution for the
> standard locknut arrangement?
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> >
> > conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> > loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> > fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | just talking about this |
Okay, only the REAL RV's.
----- Original Message -----
From: C. Rabaut <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: TD Gear Mount Bolts, was: RV-List: just talking about this
> God, every RV I know has this set up. But I've never heard of a single
> failure, let alone two on the same plane. What's up with that?
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 5:21 PM
> Subject: TD Gear Mount Bolts, was: RV-List: just talking about this
>
>
> >
> > Hmmm...does this warrant a castelled nut/cotter pin substitution for the
> > standard locknut arrangement?
> >
> > Rob Acker (RV-6).
> >
> > >
> > > conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> > > loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> > > fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel vent-RV6 |
> << Talked with Van's today concerning routing fuel vent lines and where to
> put the hole in the fuselage to enter the tubing. They were quick to
> give me an alternative routing which is coiling 4 to 5 turns of tubing
> and keeping it inside the wing root as an alternative to entering the
> fuselage. >>
I certainly wouldn't do it. Putting gas fumes into the wing root area (and
hence in the wing interior volume) doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
When the ambient temp is increasing in the hanger, it is amazing the volume
of stinky fuel fumes that come out of the vents. Turn the strobes or
autopilot on, and well, it could be spectacular.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 80 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Bob,
About at the same place I was a month ago. It will be going on plane in
a week or so. I did find a place that modifies sumps like mine to match the
foward facing ones and I am suppsed to have it back early next week. They are
in the same building as Lancair and make most of the steel parts for them
like mounts etc. I go visit some of the rv guys in Sioux Falls once in a
while and Kim up there is putting one of the kits together also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Hi list,
I am working on the fuel tanks for my 8 and am planning to use Airflow
Performance fuel injection on a O-360-B1B. What size fitting should I
get to to purge the line back into the right tank. I would like to make
provisions now before the tanks are closed.
Thanks,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Insulation (Att: Dennis Persyk) |
I purchased fiberglass insulation backed by aluminum foil from a local
uphostery shop. Unlike the felt-wool stuff, this insulation does not
support combustion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Insulation (Att: Dennis Persyk)
>
> So what type of insulation did you end up using?
> Dan
> --- Dennis Persyk wrote:
> >
> >
> > I installed the insulation on the cabin-side
> > firewall after all penetrations
> > were made. I first cut paper patterns in the
> > appropriate geometric shapes
> > to fit between angles and then punched holes with
> > sharpened tube ends, with
> > a slit to go around whatever penetrated the
> > firewall.
> >
> > I would think that making penetrations after
> > insulation installation would
> > be messy. The stainless steel firewall leaves
> > killer burrs when you make a
> > hole and deburring with insulation on one side seems
> > like it would make a
> > mess.
> >
> > I'd suggest you put a propane torch flame to any
> > insulation you're going to
> > use. My first sheet of "FAA approved" (a misnomer -
> > FAA only approves test
> > procedures) insulation supported combustion and
> > burned merrily while
> > releasing a choking, eye-watering smoke. It seems
> > that the approved test is
> > to put the flame in the center of a couple-of-foot
> > square piece. When you
> > have a large perimeter-to-area ratio, as with lots
> > of little
> > triangular-shaped pieces on the firewall, the
> > material flunks the test. The
> > edges burn quite readily.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim,
#4 works good.
Regards,
Tom
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
Charlie,
If you quit Avemco for the same reason I'm currently "trying" to quit
them, then you're in good company.
Chuck
(currently seeking a quote from AOPA, we'll see)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | just talking about this |
UGTBFKM! Which fine ins. Co. made this statement? So I can be sure to
take my business elsewhere....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made
> the claim for coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be
> terminated and find it very difficult to get insurance in the
> future. Garry "Casper"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Endorsement |
As I have been taught, a new Certificate or Rating will "count" as a
Bi-Annual,
but a Tail wheel endorsement, unless designed to cover all areas necessary on
a Bi-Annual wont. Just tell them you want it to, so they add the extra
areas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Tom,
Thanks for the reply. I got to looking around a little more and have a
couple of questions. Some are tying in to the vent line ( I don't think I
want to do that), some are tying in to the fuel supply line ( I assume with
a T fitting similar to what Jim Norman suggested). Would it be advantageous
at all the drill another hole in the inboard tank rib and place a dedicated
fitting there for the purge( kinda what I was thinking about doing). If so
what would you call the fitting that needs to be ordered (my ignorance just
reared its ugly head!).
Thanks in advance for any and all input on this.
Jim
RV8 wings...prosealing tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP Purge
>
> Jim,
> #4 works good.
>
> Regards,
> Tom
>
> Thomas M. Whelan
>
> Whelan Farms Airport
> Post Office Box 426
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>
> PH 203-266-5300
> FAX 203-266-5140
> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1097, President
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim-
You should return fuel directly to the tank. Doesnt matter which one. Run
it into the top of the tank access plate. Make sure you put a check valve as
close to the tank as possible. Just for safety reasons.
Regards,
Tom
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
Tom,
Thanks for the info. Hadn't thought about the check valve, sounds like a
good idea.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP Purge
>
> Jim-
>
> You should return fuel directly to the tank. Doesnt matter which one.
Run
> it into the top of the tank access plate. Make sure you put a check valve
as
> close to the tank as possible. Just for safety reasons.
>
> Regards,
> Tom
>
> Thomas M. Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> Post Office Box 426
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>
> PH 203-266-5300
> FAX 203-266-5140
> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1097, President
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | 180 deg turn attitude gyro precession error- |
IFR experts-
I am currently working on my IFR rating in my RV and am bothered by the
amount of precession error my attitude indicator gives after a 180 turn. It
is even worse in a climbing turn from a missed approach. My gyro slumps
about 5-7 deg for quite a while (20 sec?). The textbooks talk about it, but
never quite detail the degree of error.
Is this normal? Or should I be sending my gyro back for warranty work.
thanks,
robin wessel
RV-6A Tigard, OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "res0b58p" <res0b58p(at)verizon.net> |
From: s.hamer(at)verizon.net
Okay, Okay. I've lived with this secret long enough. I'm tired of
changing
the subject when family asks and avoiding my pilot friends, always
afraid
they'll try and pry the truth out of me.
I wacked my prop on the taxiway going 2 mph! There, I said it. I feel
better already. Now I know you're asking yourself, "how in the heck
did he
do that?" I wish I could say for certain, but the best theory so far
is if
you hit the brakes, get off and then back on and your timing happens to
coincide with the "rebound frequency" of your gear legs, you might get
a
little assist in getting the tail up. I'm sure "rebound frequency" is
not
the correct term but I use it to describe the springyness of the gear
legs.
Anyway that's a short description of the incident which leads into the
reason for this confessional, insurance. I have full coverage on my
RV-4
through AIG, written by Skysmith I won't bore you with the details
but I
had some interesting conversations with my claims adjuster at AIG
trying to
get her to understand the necessity for an engine teardown inspection,
but
with Scotts assistance she saw the light and paid off. The total claim
for
the engine and prop (Hartzell) was slightly less than the fellow in San
Jose
is facing. My premium increased about 25% which seems like a lot
except
I'm told a lot of people experienced increases of up to 15% this year,
so
maybe it's not so bad. There was never any doubt they would renew as
far as
I know. The interesting thing is when doing the usual inquiries to
determine the competitiveness of my current policy, I discovered no one
else
was interested in quoting me. It seems there is a "gentlemans
agreement"
among the insurers which keeps you from switching companies after a
claim.
They want to ensure the company who paid out gets a chance to recoup
their
loss.
This has been the low spot and only claim in 25 years of flying and
your
mileage may vary.
Steve Hamer
RV-4 bought it, broke it, fixed it
RV-6 fuse sloooow build kit
PS For you flamers, detail freaks and list police: My theory regarding
the
accident is just that, a theory. If you think I'm a moron for thinking
what
I do, fine. Keep it to yourself. The post is about insurance.
This leads to a question concerning aircraft insurance I have pondered
> > for a while and maybe one of the insurance types on the list can
provide
> > enlightenment.
> >
> > "What is the impact on future insurability when a major claim is
made
> > for hull damage?"
> >
> > I have suspected, but never had confirmed, that the scenario in the
post
> > above would be the case if a major hull claim was made on one of our
> > planes. It is true the damages should be covered provided adequate
> > coverage is purchased, (and the insurance company can't find a
"gotcha"
> > to enable them to wiggle out of paying...) but what happens when the
> > builder tries to insure the replacement aircraft? Is he insurable at
a
> > reasonable rate or has he become an untouchable, uninsurable at
anything
> > other than an exorbitant rate?
> >
> > The tactic I have taken, which is unacceptable for probably many
> > builders, is to purchase ground-only coverage (that includes
inflight
> > liability coverage) at a premium far below full hull coverage. I
feel
> > that the most likely loss or damage to my plane will be due to a
hangar
> > collapse or fire, storm damage, or theft/vandalism. I would
certainly
> > prefer to repair the plane myself if it can be returned to service.
If
> > an inflight mishap occurs (including takeoff or landings), I figure
I
> > will either be dead or my future ability to buy insurance will be
dead
> > if I file a major hull claim!
> >
> > Basically, I am self-insuring my plane against inflight hull damage.
I
> > have heard enough horror stories about pilots trying to achieve
> > satisfactory results from major insurance claims that I am willing
to
> > roll the dice. The matter of liability exposure is a much more
serious
> > issue with me than replacing a homemade airplane. If I survive a
> > crumpled RV, I suspect I will be better off taking the $$$ hit,
> > rebuilding or replacing the plane myself, having the ability to buy
more
> > insurance in the future at semi-reasonable rates.
> >
> > However.....I realize that I may have totally miscalculated this
> > situation, and I look forward to having somebody in the know
demonstrate
> > the folly of my ways. However, I am afraid that the matter of
> > insurability following a major claim is an issue many pilots haven't
> > considered.
> >
> > And even if I am more or less correct in my thinking, I realize this
> > tactic is certainly not acceptable to many pilots due to
pschological or
> > financial reasons.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: STUFF FOR SALE! |
If you still have these fittings I will take them off your hands.
How do you want the money? Check, money order?
Jerry Isler
RV-4 #1070
Donalsonville, GA.
>FOR SALE:
>
>VANS Fuel Pump Fittings (all 4 new)
>Parts # KB-000, 045, 090, 090-T. New at Vans
>$29........................................$22
>>
>-Michael Sices
>RV8 Kenosha, Wi
>
>If interested, please reply to me at msices(at)core.com. Will ship anywhere
>for cost of shipping.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
It was a good day. A really good day. Last Saturday Jim Durling took me for
a ride in his beautiful RV-6. It was the first time I flew an RV and a
moment I have dreamed about since starting mine a year ago. It was a really
good day. If you have a flying RV, take a builder up, especially if he has
never flown one. It is one of those "first time" moments he/she will always
remember.
Thanks Jim. It really was a good day.
Pete Hunt
RV-6 QB hanging ailerons
N216PH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Cockpit noise and headsets |
I have a beginner question regarding ANR headsets. While flying in my
RV-6A my non-ANR headsets work fine to keep noise levels low. That is
if no one speaks. The minute I speak (either to my passenger or on the
radio) and activate the microphone, the engine and wind noise is very
loud and I can barely hear.
My question is this: I understand that ANR will block a great deal of
that noise. Will it block the background cockpit noise from going out
through the radio so the person on the receiving end (ATC, etc.) will
not hear all of that racket or does the ANR only work for the headset?
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise and headsets |
A couple of observations:
1) Your headsets probably lack good noise cancellation in the microphones
2) Your intercom is probably tripping both microphones when one breaks
squelch instead of just the active one
ANR itself will not help either case.
Dennis Persyk amateur radio N9DP 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cockpit noise and headsets
>
> I have a beginner question regarding ANR headsets. While flying in my
> RV-6A my non-ANR headsets work fine to keep noise levels low. That is
> if no one speaks. The minute I speak (either to my passenger or on the
> radio) and activate the microphone, the engine and wind noise is very
> loud and I can barely hear.
> My question is this: I understand that ANR will block a great deal of
> that noise. Will it block the background cockpit noise from going out
> through the radio so the person on the receiving end (ATC, etc.) will
> not hear all of that racket or does the ANR only work for the headset?
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: A Good Day
It was a good day. A really good day. Last Saturday Jim Durling took
me for
a ride in his beautiful RV-6. It was the first time I flew an RV and
a
moment I have dreamed about since starting mine a year ago. It was a
really
good day. If you have a flying RV, take a builder up, especially if
he has
never flown one. It is one of those "first time" moments he/she will
always
remember.
Thanks Jim. It really was a good day.
Pete Hunt
RV-6 QB hanging ailerons
N216PH (reserved)
Just call me anytime (503) 233-1818 and I'll give you a ride, as many
G's as you want. I hope to fly to Boise to look at midget mustangs this
weekend if anyone wants to come along. Kevin TTD N3773 RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
I've got some first hand experience with this problem. There's both good and
bad news. Several agencies told me that no carrier other than my current
(AIG) would insure me for 1 year after the accident. And when they did I
could expect a 20-30% rate hike for several years. I compounded the problem
by wanting insurance for a Navion, which AIG no longer writes (catch-22),
and having minimal complex time. Some agencies just laughed and most pointed
me to AVEMCO, who would not even quote. None seemed to care about the cause
of the accident, just that there was a claim. One tried to get me to find a
different type airplane that I was more likely to get coverage for. But I
persevered and found an agency (Falcon) that seemed to genuinely want to
help. He didn't seem too concerned about finding coverage even thinking he'd
get multiple quotes to choose from. He asked about the cause and didn't see
it as an issue. He turned up a reasonable quote the next day. That was back
in October and several deals have fallen through so I have not actually
tried to bind coverage yet. That was also before the post-9/11 cloud had a
chance to take effect in the insurance industry. Today may be a different
story.
My view is that insurance will still be available after a claim but you'll
pay a higher rate and may have to dig for it. The 30% premium may amount to
an additional $500/yr for several years. It may be galling to pay more, but
the economics seem to favor filing an $11,000 claim.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) RIP
Searching for Navion
>
>
> Garry LeGare wrote:
> >
> >
> > There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made the
> claim for
> > coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be terminated and
> find it very
> > difficult to get insurance in the future.
> > Garry "Casper"
>
>
> This leads to a question concerning aircraft insurance I have pondered
> for a while and maybe one of the insurance types on the list can provide
> enlightenment.
>
> "What is the impact on future insurability when a major claim is made
> for hull damage?"
>
> I have suspected, but never had confirmed, that the scenario in the post
> above would be the case if a major hull claim was made on one of our
> planes. It is true the damages should be covered provided adequate
> coverage is purchased, (and the insurance company can't find a "gotcha"
> to enable them to wiggle out of paying...) but what happens when the
> builder tries to insure the replacement aircraft? Is he insurable at a
> reasonable rate or has he become an untouchable, uninsurable at anything
> other than an exorbitant rate?
>
> The tactic I have taken, which is unacceptable for probably many
> builders, is to purchase ground-only coverage (that includes inflight
> liability coverage) at a premium far below full hull coverage. I feel
> that the most likely loss or damage to my plane will be due to a hangar
> collapse or fire, storm damage, or theft/vandalism. I would certainly
> prefer to repair the plane myself if it can be returned to service. If
> an inflight mishap occurs (including takeoff or landings), I figure I
> will either be dead or my future ability to buy insurance will be dead
> if I file a major hull claim!
>
> Basically, I am self-insuring my plane against inflight hull damage. I
> have heard enough horror stories about pilots trying to achieve
> satisfactory results from major insurance claims that I am willing to
> roll the dice. The matter of liability exposure is a much more serious
> issue with me than replacing a homemade airplane. If I survive a
> crumpled RV, I suspect I will be better off taking the $$$ hit,
> rebuilding or replacing the plane myself, having the ability to buy more
> insurance in the future at semi-reasonable rates.
>
> However.....I realize that I may have totally miscalculated this
> situation, and I look forward to having somebody in the know demonstrate
> the folly of my ways. However, I am afraid that the matter of
> insurability following a major claim is an issue many pilots haven't
> considered.
>
> And even if I am more or less correct in my thinking, I realize this
> tactic is certainly not acceptable to many pilots due to psychological or
> financial reasons.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Ed,
Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the entire
AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Hi Jim,
Please tell me why it is important to fit an additional fuel filter and
not just a gascolator before the electric injection pump? I have only
the gascolator and thereafter the pump. Is that wrong?
Stephan Servatius
RV8
Germany
Jim Norman schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
>
>
> Ed,
> Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit
> just fine. I put
> my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I
> did put the entire
> AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than
> the filter.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Ed Perry
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
>
>
> Besides Airflow Performance,
>
> Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine"
> that will fit in
> the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is
> no filter
> currently available besides theirs that will run
> reliably. Paper filters
> will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too
> fine. They
> recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the
> fuel pump. My
> problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I
> imagine the
> smell of fuel being there for some time after I change
> the filter and
> spill it everywhere.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
>
>
> =================
> Contributions of
> other form
> =================
> latest messages.
> List members.
> =================
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> =================
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise and headsets |
I have a 6A and use regular headsets and have no problem with them.Have you
tried a different brand of headset?Also make sure the mike is facing the
correct direction.(some will rotate 180*)You might also try using a mike
sock or muff(or whatever their called).
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Got any pictures?
Ed Holyoke
RV6 qb
Ed,
Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I
put
my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the
entire
AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
09:14:47 AM
Jim, I don't currently own the AFP pump and filter but I'm in the planning
stage. Would it be possible to disassemble the pump/filter and hook them
up in line in the wing root with steel braided lines? I really don't want
that thing in the cockpit.
Thanks
Eric
"Jim Norman" (at)matronics.com on 01/16/2002
03:45:56 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
Ed,
Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the entire
AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Doo-Hickeys |
Eric,
I have no idea what the Marine Corp calls these parts. However, the rest
of the world simply calls them "studs". They can be easily removed by
"double nutting" them, using a stud remover (I can loan you mine) or the
real Marine Corp way (use your teeth) :-)
Call me & I'll come over and remove them for you. I'd hate you to ruin
your teeth!
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Engine guys, (which is everyone compared to me)
>
>Q1: What is the official name of the screw studs that come out of the
>engine case and hold on the oil pan? (Charley if you say "screw stud oil
>pan holder-on'ers" I'll ding your wing skins).
>
>Q2: How hard is it to change them? Is it a not for do-it yourselfers kind
>of thing?
>
>Thanks
>
>Eric
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this) Long! |
I am so sorry that I missed these posts... have been very busy...
Generally, after an accident you will find most other insurance companies
will decline to quote you for as many as 3, and up to 5 years in some cases.
However, if the company that paid the claim is not going to cover you again,
(or you're transitioning into an RG aircraft for the first time and that
company doesn't want to cover you in that airplane) most good agents are
willing to go the extra mile (i.e. explain that the loss wasn't that bad,
and you are transitioning into a Navion with no RG time and that the co. who
paid the loss doesn't write coverage for those anymore) then they will
probably be able to find a company to quote you.
You must realize the amount of submissions these insurance companies get
every day.... it is staggering... when one comes in with loss information on
it... it gets the big "decline" stamp on it. However, it is very important
(for you one who had the accident and the agent) to report that to the
companies. The agent wants to protect his reputation with the company (i.e.
not be seen as some agent who would knowingly lie to the companies, and thus
lose the privilege of using them.) and you want to preserve your
insurability with that company (some companies keep "black lists" and might
not insure you in the future... trust me with as few companies as there are
out there today, you want as many co's as possible competing on your
business.)
The companies will find out about the claim eventually anyway (because you
will report it on your application.) If you aren't gonna put it on the
application then don't buy the insurance... you would be paying for
something that you aren't getting because if you answer falsely they can and
most will void your coverage once you have another accident if you have
misled them on the application.
I cannot directly speak to you about Mr. Wildman's case because I am his
agent. But, before you go and flame me and the VanGuard Program, he is
insured by a company other than the VanGuard Program and I am only the agent
anyway not the insurance company, nor the claims adjuster. I can say that
reading these posts a few minutes ago is how I found out about the loss as
he must have reported it directly to his insurance company. Enough said.
(Perhaps too much)
I cannot believe that the company that insures Dick would tell him that he
would be cancelled for an $11,000 claim. That is rediculous. If that is
true, Dick can contact me, and we will elevate this to the Claims Manager
level, and get the individual claims adjuster relieved of his position (or
if an independant adjuster, they would never use him again.) The poster who
referenced that statement said "Dick was told" but doesn't say by whom,
perhaps he was told that not by the company but by someone who thinks they
know about insurance, but don't.
First of all, claims adjusters handle claims, underwriters underwrite the
risks... claims people have nothing to do with who would or would not be
insured in the future. They wouldn't normally even mention a specific
claimant to the underwriters unless the claimant was extremely difficult to
deal with regarding the claim. (Nor would they tell you that you shouldn't
use your insurance... that's ridiculous... that's what you have it for.)
If you have a claim, turn it in. If it is minor claim (like hangar rash),
the payout will generally be so small that it shouldn't even affect your
rates. If it is more severe, like $11,000 or more, it may increase your
rates by one or two hundred dollars (a $500 increase mentioned earlier is a
little overstated as usually you are talking about losing your discounts for
a few years which normally aren't more than 20% of your premium.) Most
peoples premiums are not such that they would get that big of an increase.
In a total loss claim or a claim over $50,000, the size might affect the
increase a little, so you might see a $500 increase in that case. I hope
you realize that it would take 100 years worth of gathering that increased
premium from you for the insurance company to recoup that $50000 loss. I
don't think it is out of line to ask someone who has had a claim to add a
little more to the pot for a few years. Those of you who have yet to
experience a claim (and those that claim they never will) should also be
enthusiastic about this. If the companies don't ask those with recent
claims to pay a slight increase for a few years, then they have to charge
everybody else more. I know you all wouldn't want that.
By the way, most (about 99.5%) of the RV's that I insure are placed in the
VanGuard Program. New business in the VanGuard program is now restricted by
a 65 year old age limit (they will not cancel due to age, but they will not
do new business or add pilots over the age of 65).
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this
The fellows name is Dick Wildman. He had recently purchased the aircraft
from Don
Farrand, who was the original builder. Dick had recently finished tail wheel
training and a check out for insurance coverage with Robin Reid. On the day
in
question he had gone down to Reid Hillveiw and had done 5 circuits and
decided to
do a 6th and then put the aircraft in the hanger. On the 6th one, as he was
rolling out, at about 30 MPH the aircraft was pulling to the right and
nothing he
could do would straighten it out. The aircraft veered off the runway, as it
did
so the right gear collapsed, causing the wing and prop to hit the ground. At
first Dick thought that he had screwed up and ground looped it. After
Robin
Reid inspected it he came to a different conclusion, that being the bolt
that
holds the gear in place had loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount
oblong,
then eventually fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
This aircraft had a similar event last year when Don was flying, and Don had
replaced the motor mount and both gear legs. Aircraft time in service is
between
two and three hundred hours.
This information is from a conversation with Dick Wildman.
Garry " Casper"
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 164DF Make/Model: RV6 Description: 1999 VANS RV-6
> Date: 01/10/2002 Time: 2153
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Substantial
>
> LOCATION
> City: SAN JOSE State: CA Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> AIRCRAFT GROUND LOOPED DURING LANDING ROLLOUT ON RWY 31L, LEFT LANDING
GEAR
> COLLAPSED DAMAGING FIREWALL, LEFT WING TIP, AND AILERON, SAN JOSE, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Eric,
The pump is separate from the filter. They are meant to be hooked up
in-line.
There is absolutely no way to put both the AFP fuel pump and fuel filter
into one wing root. In fact, putting the fuel pump in the wing root
necessitated removing and re-forming one of their return lines built into
the pump so that it could decrease the overall height of the pump by about
3/8 of an inch. Its that tight. It also necessitated putting 5 holes in that
side of the fuselage just for the fuel: One from the tank to the fuel
selector valve, one from the valve to the pump, one out of the pump for the
"return/recycle" loop (no room to loop it in the wing root) and then another
for that loop to get back to the pump (this is a simple 10 inch loop of
line, but it has to go through the fuselage since there is no other place to
loop it), and then one from the pump outlet that goes to the engine.
The output line (to the engine) comes inside the cockpit and travels along
the floor to exit through the firewall through a bulkhead fitting. From
there I have it going to the filter, then to a fuel flow meter, then to the
engine fuel pump.
Yep, there are a LOT of fittings needed to put the pump in the wing root,
but only a couple more than needed at the very least no matter where you put
it.
I'll try to get some pictures in the next few days.
As a reminder about mounting methods... I posted to this list about 4-6
months ago a perfect mounting bracket for the pump and filter. AFP provides
big Adel clamps, but the ones that I found are extremely beefy and perfect
for the job. Check the archives.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
Jim, I don't currently own the AFP pump and filter but I'm in the planning
stage. Would it be possible to disassemble the pump/filter and hook them
up in line in the wing root with steel braided lines? I really don't want
that thing in the cockpit.
Thanks
Eric
"Jim Norman" (at)matronics.com on 01/16/2002
03:45:56 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
Ed,
Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the entire
AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Doo-Hickeys |
In a message dated 1/15/2002 10:49:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
>
>
> Engine guys, (which is everyone compared to me)
>
> Q1: What is the official name of the screw studs that come out of the
> engine case and hold on the oil pan? (Charley if you say "screw stud oil
> pan holder-on'ers" I'll ding your wing skins).
>
> Q2: How hard is it to change them? Is it a not for do-it yourselfers kind
> of thing?
>
> Thanks
>
If you have damaged one or more of those studs that hold on the sump your
engine is now a total loss, contact me off line I will have some one dispose
it for you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: was, just talking about this; now, insurability |
In a message dated 1/15/2002 3:56:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
> And even if I am more or less correct in my thinking, I realize this
> tactic is certainly not acceptable to many pilots due to pschological or
> financial reasons.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
Your not that far off track Sam, I personaly agree with your line of
thinking.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Gary,
Yes I have read your posts and yes I redid your tests to confirm them.
I guess I'm a pragmatist that trusts what nobody says unless there's
corroborating evidence. So now there's corroborating evidence.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 263 hours
F1 under const.
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tail venting
Bob, you might want to review some of my recent posts as it seems your
redoing tests I've already done.
I found the same thing you did regarding the inspection holes. My
conclusion
regarding where the air is getting in is the same. It was after this and
other tests that I installed a exit duct on the underside of the
fuselage to
relieve the air
pressure in the tail. It is a little to small but still works well. A
slightly larger one would be perfect. The dimensions are in one of my
Keeping
Warm posts.
Garry "Casper"
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> This past weekend I removed the inspection covers underneath the HS
and
> attached some soffit vent I found at the local hardware store. I cut
> the soffit and duct-taped it in place, with the louvers facing aft.
> During flight testing, I noticed no decrease in air coming past the
> baggage compartment bulkhead.
Snip
>
>
> To be continued...
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 263 hours
> F1 under const.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
Prior to this incident, Don, the builder has stated that he's not the best
builder around. This is his second RV. His first was a RV4 which was sold to
someone in the south. Don, is I believe close to eighty and sold the aircraft
to Dick because he was becoming concerned about his ability to pilot aircraft.
I don't believe there is an issue with the gear leg bolts on our aircraft, but
it sure doesn't hurt to check the bolt torque and inspect the bolt hole for
any signs of movement.
I will check with Dick and see if he will divulge the carrier's name.
Garry "Casper"
"C. Rabaut" wrote:
>
> God, every RV I know has this set up. But I've never heard of a single
> failure, let alone two on the same plane. What's up with that?
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
> To:
> Subject: TD Gear Mount Bolts, was: RV-List: just talking about this
>
> >
> > Hmmm...does this warrant a castelled nut/cotter pin substitution for the
> > standard locknut arrangement?
> >
> > Rob Acker (RV-6).
> >
> > >
> > > conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> > > loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> > > fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
If such a threat was made and there is some evidence that can be shown that
it was in fact made, immediately file a formal complaint with your state
Insurance Commissioner. You will get action !
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cockpit noise and headsets |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
I had the same problem in my 6A, where background noise when I was transmitting
was unbearable. I did not have the problem when talking on the intercom.
In my situation there was an adjustment in the radio (IIMorrow GX60)
for sidetone level that could be set which cured most of the problem.
There was also a gain adjustment at the microphone on my David Clark's
which could be adjusted. This had less of an impact on the problem.
When they ship the headsets the gain is set to maximum.
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TD Gear Mount Bolts |
> > conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> > loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> > fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
OK: my mechanical mind tells me that something in the installation wasn't
right. If this was a design problem, it would be a common occurance and I
have not heard of this happening before.
Several points: Seems the only way a hole can get enlarged by movement is if
there is movement to begin with. In other words, the gear mounting bolt hole
in the engine mount was too big initally, allowing the initial movement to
begin. Which would, over time, worsen. One would THINK you would notice
something in how your airplane was handling on the ground if such movement
was happening as it would mess with the allignment of the gear, making
ground handling an adventure. Or strange tire wear.
Also, one would THINK it would take some time for this to get bad enough to
cause the above-mentioned accident. More than, say, 25 hours. So maybe
everyone doesn't do a firewall forward inspection of the engine compartment
when the cowel is off for the oil change. In the tightly coweled airplanes
we fly, with three little peepholes to look through on preflight, one should
take every opportunity to look things over any time the cowel is off for any
reason. A mini conditional inspection, as it were.
>
Hmmm...does this warrant a castelled nut/cotter pin substitution for the
> standard locknut arrangement?
In this circumstance, it sounds like the bolts were still in place,
enlarging the hole and were probably finally sheared off from wear or gear
leg movement and another method of keeping them in place wouldn't have
changed anything.The bolts had to be in place for the holes to get oblong.
Unless it was just one of the holes as the bolts worked their way out.
It is also strange this wear occurred twice to the same airplane (builder).
Was something done incorrectly twice?
Odd problem. Red herring, one might say.
IMHO
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
Call your agent first... they can contact the Claims Manager (supervisor of
the claims adjuster). The companies want to know about these type of
comments if they really happen so that they can get a chance to deal with
it.
Calling the Insurance Commissioner is a little premature when the company
doesn't even know about it yet and hasn't had a chance to respond. If you
are unhappy with what the insurance company does, then calling the insurance
commissioner is still an option.
Yes, you can call the insurance commissioner first, but you will likely get
the same result. One of the first things the commissioner will likely do is
ask you if you have followed the complaint procedure of the insurance
company thru to its fullest. Then if so, they will call the company,
investigate, and if the claims adjuster said it, then he will be fired by
the company most likely.
$.02
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Pleasure and Business Branch
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this
If such a threat was made and there is some evidence that can be shown that
it was in fact made, immediately file a formal complaint with your state
Insurance Commissioner. You will get action !
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise and headsets |
I had a similar problem with my Terra radio. I could hear fine, but was
garbled when I transmitted.. I initially thought the cockpit cabin noise
through the mike was causing the problem for those receving my garbled radio
transmissions. I uphostered the interior thinking the "Tin Can" effect was
the problem, I even purchased a special noise surpression micophone to no
avail. One day I mentioned my problem to an avionic type visiting our
airport. He had me remove the transmitter and he made a slight adjustment
to to the "mic gain" control and the problem was solved. You can still hear
the cockpit noise, but at least folks can understand me now.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
N494BW Rv-6A
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
Hold the rumors!!!
I just got off of the phone with Dick Wildman. He authorized me to tell you
the whole story, and I am copying him on this email. He asked that I invite
anyone who wishes to email him for verification.
Most importantly of all, I am the first insurance person he has talked to
about his claim. He just initiated the claim with me 5 minutes ago. Thus,
no one at AIG (his insurer) ever told him to not file a claim (or any of the
other rumors that got started in this thread) because he hasn't spoken to
them yet.
The description of the accident was pretty accurate according to what Dick
told me (he was amazed that I knew so much.... was thinking I was
omnicient). But the accounts of what he was told not to do must have come
from thin air (or some one full of some hot air.)
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this
Call your agent first... they can contact the Claims Manager (supervisor of
the claims adjuster). The companies want to know about these type of
comments if they really happen so that they can get a chance to deal with
it.
Calling the Insurance Commissioner is a little premature when the company
doesn't even know about it yet and hasn't had a chance to respond. If you
are unhappy with what the insurance company does, then calling the insurance
commissioner is still an option.
Yes, you can call the insurance commissioner first, but you will likely get
the same result. One of the first things the commissioner will likely do is
ask you if you have followed the complaint procedure of the insurance
company thru to its fullest. Then if so, they will call the company,
investigate, and if the claims adjuster said it, then he will be fired by
the company most likely.
$.02
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Pleasure and Business Branch
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this
If such a threat was made and there is some evidence that can be shown that
it was in fact made, immediately file a formal complaint with your state
Insurance Commissioner. You will get action !
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Hi Jim,
I have not installed the wings yet and am concerned about 2 things with the
AFP filters. 1) I was not sure how to access the filters in the wings, is
there enough room between the wings and fuselage to get the required
wrenches in there, If so can you estimate the distance between the fuselage
and first wing rib/fuel tank? 2) Is cost...If I put one AFP in each wing I
am close to $300. Granted it is probably the best method but I have also
found an Aeromotive Filter that has a 100 micron filter that is 11/4"
diameter and 3" long and rated for fuel injection, for $79 each.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
>
> Ed,
> Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
> my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the
entire
> AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
>
> Besides Airflow Performance,
>
> Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
> the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
> currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
> will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
> recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
> problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
> smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
> spill it everywhere.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Heard an interesting way of sealing fuel tanks today.
Apparently one guy applied the sealant to all the ribs and then clecoed them
in place. He came back a week later and then riveted the ribs to the skin
and applied sealant around each rivet.
Anybody tried this?
Steve
Kingston
RV-7A
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Anyone have specs on the correct size o-ring for the fuel tank sump drains?
I have one that seeps if I am not careful to give it a twist (to ensure it is
seated) after a fuel sample is drained. Rather than drain the tank and
disassemble and measure the part, I thought I would ask the list, and pick
one up from the hardware store on the way home. Will the standard
plumbing-type o-rings serve in this application? Or do I need to call an
aircraft supplier like The $pruce?
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Dumb question. Recent threads mentioned having fuel caps engraved.
What is engraved? Is there some requirement for labeling fuel caps?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | tail pumping evaluation |
Just my $.02 to the tail cone pressurization research effort:
Place a flexible plastic tube in the tail cone via the baggage panel
"triangles." Connect to a spare altimeter and recored the indicated altitude
in level flight. Disconnect tube and note reading based on cabin pressure.
Differential indicated altitude should help quantify the magnitude of the
problem and the effectiveness of any fixes that are later tried. Seems like
it would work better than a subjective guess as to heater effectiveness, wind
on the back of the neck, etc.
FWIW, my heat usually seems adequate (single Robbins muff on 2 in 1 Vetterman
crossover)
Bill B
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Ed,
There is no reason to put a filter in each wing root... just one filter is
all that is needed for the AFP system (or all systems??). They provide the
filter, so put it after the fuel selector valve before the engine... its
that easy.
The filter AFP provides has a big nut at the end which unscrews. When you do
so, you pull out a 7 inch long mesh screen that can be cleaned. One issue
about putting it in the wing root is that they recommend that you clean it
after the first 10 hours, then at 25, then at 50, then every 100. So, you'll
have to take your root fairing off to get at it.
There is roughly 3.5 inches between the fuselage side and the first tank rib
(this is an RV-6, can't say for an 8). This space is widest just in front of
the spar (where it is also the tallest part of the space--obviously). Tank
fittings, etc will need to be taken into consideration since they protrude
into this space, and the tank lines obviously come out. But you can move
things around so as not to interfere with those items.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
Hi Jim,
I have not installed the wings yet and am concerned about 2 things with the
AFP filters. 1) I was not sure how to access the filters in the wings, is
there enough room between the wings and fuselage to get the required
wrenches in there, If so can you estimate the distance between the fuselage
and first wing rib/fuel tank? 2) Is cost...If I put one AFP in each wing I
am close to $300. Granted it is probably the best method but I have also
found an Aeromotive Filter that has a 100 micron filter that is 11/4"
diameter and 3" long and rated for fuel injection, for $79 each.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TD Gear Mount Bolts |
Please clarify: We are talking about a tail-dragger RV-6, yes?
I haven't bought my finish kit with the engine mount/landing gear weldment,
but I understand that entire thing is held by the 4 bolts that go thru the
corners of the firewall. Correct? Is it one or more of those bolts that
have failed? Or, are there additional holes to help carry loads from the
main landing gear to some other part of the fuselage?
David Carter
"KostaLewis"
Subject: RV-List: Re: TD Gear Mount Bolts
>
> > > conclusion, that being the bolt that holds the gear in place had
> > > loosened and worn the hole in the motor mount oblong, then eventually
> > > fell out, as it was nowhere to be found.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TD Gear Mount Bolts |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>
> Please clarify: We are talking about a tail-dragger RV-6, yes?
Yes, TD = taildragger.
> I haven't bought my finish kit with the engine mount/landing gear
> weldment, but I understand that entire thing is held by the 4 bolts
> that go thru the corners of the firewall. Correct? Is it one or more
> of those bolts that have failed? Or, are there additional holes to
> help carry loads from the main landing gear to some other part of the
> fuselage?
Six bolts hold the engine mount to the firewall. One bolt through each
gear leg holds the gear to the engine mount. Its this single bolt that is
the concern in this thread.
Rob Acker (RV-6, never flown a TD).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If it is a Curtis valve with the bar thru the outlet, it is NOT an o-ring
but a special "D" ring. Trimcraft has them but Curtis will not sell
replacements. It is their contention that by the time you need to replace
the seal, it is time to replace the valve body. They have been known to
crack and dump the entire load of gas on the ground.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: o-ring size
Anyone have specs on the correct size o-ring for the fuel tank sump drains?
I have one that seeps if I am not careful to give it a twist (to ensure it
is
seated) after a fuel sample is drained. Rather than drain the tank and
disassemble and measure the part, I thought I would ask the list, and pick
one up from the hardware store on the way home. Will the standard
plumbing-type o-rings serve in this application? Or do I need to call an
aircraft supplier like The $pruce?
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Doo-Hickeys |
Hey Charlie, It's no wonder Eric is at a loss for words (a very rare occasion
indeed) but the fact of the matter is the marine corp has not explained the
term "stud" to the corp yet.
You can only cover so much in 13 weeks.....
Jim Streit
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Eric,
> I have no idea what the Marine Corp calls these parts. However, the rest
> of the world simply calls them "studs". They can be easily removed by
> "double nutting" them, using a stud remover (I can loan you mine) or the
> real Marine Corp way (use your teeth) :-)
> Call me & I'll come over and remove them for you. I'd hate you to ruin
> your teeth!
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> >
> >Engine guys, (which is everyone compared to me)
> >
> >Q1: What is the official name of the screw studs that come out of the
> >engine case and hold on the oil pan? (Charley if you say "screw stud oil
> >pan holder-on'ers" I'll ding your wing skins).
> >
> >Q2: How hard is it to change them? Is it a not for do-it yourselfers kind
> >of thing?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Eric
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 01/16/2002 4:20:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
> f it is a Curtis valve with the bar thru the outlet, it is NOT an o-ring
> but a special "D" ring.
No bar, just a round plunger/disc with a small hole in the middle.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Hex-Head Engine Plug |
From experience we have found heating the offending bolt, stud, plug and
while it's hot put Bee's wax on it and it will just about fall out. But
Remember it has to be the natural Bee's wax. Jess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip bushing |
The bushing for the co-pilot stick is too tight to fit onto the stick.
I have removed all the primer and still have .015 to go. Do others have
this problem, or just me with incompatible tolerances from Van and
Infinity?
In other words, the stick is just over .75 inches and the bushing is
just under.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Barnes -6 electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Yep,
According to DAR's that is the most widely missed item when they are doing
the inspection. The fuel caps don't have to be engraved, but the fuel
openening must be placarded to identify fuel type, octane and gallans. The
best way is to just engrave the caps, no "sticker" to worry about.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Brame
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Caps
Dumb question. Recent threads mentioned having fuel caps engraved.
What is engraved? Is there some requirement for labeling fuel caps?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
Ed,
Where can I get the aeromotive filter that you mentioned?
John Henley
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Perry <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
> Hi Jim,
> I have not installed the wings yet and am concerned about 2 things with
the
> AFP filters. 1) I was not sure how to access the filters in the wings,
is
> there enough room between the wings and fuselage to get the required
> wrenches in there, If so can you estimate the distance between the
fuselage
> and first wing rib/fuel tank? 2) Is cost...If I put one AFP in each wing I
> am close to $300. Granted it is probably the best method but I have also
> found an Aeromotive Filter that has a 100 micron filter that is 11/4"
> diameter and 3" long and rated for fuel injection, for $79 each.
>
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
> >
> > Ed,
> > Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I
put
> > my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the
> entire
> > AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
> >
> > jim
> > Tampa
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
> > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
> >
> >
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
> >
> > Besides Airflow Performance,
> >
> > Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
> > the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
> > currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
> > will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
> > recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
> > problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
> > smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
> > spill it everywhere.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ed Perry
> > eperry(at)san.rr.com
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip bushing |
> The bushing for the co-pilot stick is too tight to fit onto the stick.
> snip
>
> Tom Barnes -6 electrical stuff
>
I had this same problem and had a friend with a lathe mill it out to the
correct dimension.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have specs on the correct size o-ring for the fuel tank sump drains?
> I have one that seeps if I am not careful to give it a twist (to ensure it is
> seated) after a fuel sample is drained. Rather than drain the tank and
> disassemble and measure the part, I thought I would ask the list, and pick
> one up from the hardware store on the way home. Will the standard
> plumbing-type o-rings serve in this application? Or do I need to call an
> aircraft supplier like The $pruce?
>
> -BB
-=============-
I have had the o-ring in a sump drain disintegrate a couple of times (it
will get "weepy" for a while and give you some warning) and have
replaced them with o-rings purchased at an auto parts store. The
"correct" o-ring is probably made of something that is more resistent to
avgas, but the ordinary o-ring will work for quite a long time.
By the way, I carry either an extra sump drain or a 1/8" pipe plug in
the tool kit in case I have an o-ring let go while on a trip; only had
to use the spare one time, but am glad I had it along.
You could install the pipe plug while you take the drain to the hardware
store.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this CORRECTION! |
I went through this when I was renewing my insurance.
I was with Skysmith/AIG and decided to shop around
(always looking for a deal), but I was also adding my
uncle to the policy. As it turns out other INS companies
would not insure anyone over 65. My uncle is 72, a
CFII and can fly circles around me. I was told older
pilots have more Accidents/incidents.
However, AIG does not have an "age issue" and we
had no problem adding him to the policy.
I guess I'll be sticking with Scott from here on out.
Craig Hiers
Moultrie,GA.
> contact him and make a claim, he said he would. Part of the problem is
Dick is over
> 65 ( looks maybe 55) and is concerned about losing coverage.
> I'll keep you posted. Gotta go work on Casper.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Garry LeGare wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Hex-Head Engine Plug |
Mike,
If you have not solved you stuck plug problem there are other ways to go at
this. If you are a good welder or know a good welder you trust you can arc
weld a hex nut to the plug. This requires much care in doing. Remove all
electronic plugs to prevent any problems from stray currents. Cover the area
to prevent splatter. When I was still working we welded with good results on
CNC controlled machine tools. Extreme care is required. The heat from welding
will in some cases release the stuck part. The hex nut welded to the plug
will give you a good purchase to apply removal torque.
Another thing is the very best penetrating oil I have ever used is Kano
Kroil. This can be purchased direct from the factory in Nashville, TN. After
applying penetrating oil torque can be applied with an end wench while you
tap on the end of the plug with a hammer. This combination will release some
really stuck items.
Karl Rigdon
Hazel Green, WI
BC12D-1 N44257
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip bushing |
A suggestion, not sure if it'll work but it's easy to do at home,
anyway... Take the stick out and put it in the freezer, and the bushing
and put it in the oven, for long enough to heat the bushing and cool the
stick. Then try fitting them. Might be just enough that you can
press-fit them together, which would give you the added security of it
being nice and snug on the stick and unlikely to ever come off... 8-)
-Rob P.
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
>The bushing for the co-pilot stick is too tight to fit onto the stick.
>I have removed all the primer and still have .015 to go. Do others have
>this problem, or just me with incompatible tolerances from Van and
>Infinity?
>In other words, the stick is just over .75 inches and the bushing is
>just under.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tom Barnes -6 electrical stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters |
check out this site.
http://flowezy.freeyellow.com/racingMODEL_ILA.html
it is filter used in race cars.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
HR-II flying but down for wheel farings extra.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
> Ed,
> Where can I get the aeromotive filter that you mentioned?
>
> John Henley
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Perry <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
> >
> > Hi Jim,
> > I have not installed the wings yet and am concerned about 2 things with
> the
> > AFP filters. 1) I was not sure how to access the filters in the
wings,
> is
> > there enough room between the wings and fuselage to get the required
> > wrenches in there, If so can you estimate the distance between the
> fuselage
> > and first wing rib/fuel tank? 2) Is cost...If I put one AFP in each wing
I
> > am close to $300. Granted it is probably the best method but I have also
> > found an Aeromotive Filter that has a 100 micron filter that is 11/4"
> > diameter and 3" long and rated for fuel injection, for $79 each.
> >
> > Ed Perry
> > eperry(at)san.rr.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
> >
> >
> > > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
>
> > >
> > > Ed,
> > > Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I
> put
> > > my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the
> > entire
> > > AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
> > >
> > > jim
> > > Tampa
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
> > > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Ed Perry"
> > >
> > > Besides Airflow Performance,
> > >
> > > Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit
in
> > > the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
> > > currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper
filters
> > > will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
> > > recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump.
My
> > > problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
> > > smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
> > > spill it everywhere.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ed Perry
> > > eperry(at)san.rr.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this CORRECTION! |
You seem to be missing the point. Your agent (Scott Skysmith) has nothing to
do with that. It is AIG's policy, not Scott's, nor mine. We (Scott and I)
are AGENTS... AIG, USAIG, Phoenix, and others are INSURANCE COMPANIES.
You can stick with Scott, that is fine if he is doing a good job for you ...
great!
I just disagree with the way you make that sound... that Scott has
miraculously provided you with this great company (AIG is a good company)
that no one else could get you...
And BTW... "shopping around" is o.k., it is your right... but your agent
should be sending out quote requests for you to companies they feel are
going to be competitive for you. They should be providing you with quotes
from other companies if that is appropriate (what I mean by that is, I don't
check every market for every customer... for example for pilots over a
certain age, there are companies that absolutely will not do it.)... and
when your agent does that ... the other agents you "shop around" too aren't
able to get a quote for you anyway.
You are wasting their time, and the insurance companies time. When you
waste their time, you are driving up the price of insurance, and using up
assets (like CSR's time) that could be spent providing better service to
their existing customers. (This probably doesn't mean much to you ... you
are thinking.... but what if you are waiting on a mexican certificate, and
200 people decide (all at the same time) to overwhelm AIG by "shopping there
insurance" and you don't get your cert?
My advice:
1. only "shop around" to other agents if you want to move to that other
agent. All it takes is a quick letter from you and you are switched.
2. Provide your agent with the most up to date information that you can, as
early as possible (for renewal information generally 1-2 months ahead of
your renewal your agent should ask you for your updated hours and if you
want to make any changes to the policy.... this is generally done by sending
you a form).
3. Ask your agent questions... who else did you get quotes from? or ...
What other markets are competitive on this type of aircraft? ... or.... what
can I do to lower my rate next year? A good agent will go over these
questions and concerns with you.... (just remember we do make our living on
the phone ... so generally describing your latest trip to Timbuktu with your
dog in your RV doesn't help....lol)
Rant over
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this CORRECTION!
I went through this when I was renewing my insurance.
I was with Skysmith/AIG and decided to shop around
(always looking for a deal), but I was also adding my
uncle to the policy. As it turns out other INS companies
would not insure anyone over 65. My uncle is 72, a
CFII and can fly circles around me. I was told older
pilots have more Accidents/incidents.
However, AIG does not have an "age issue" and we
had no problem adding him to the policy.
I guess I'll be sticking with Scott from here on out.
Craig Hiers
Moultrie,GA.
> contact him and make a claim, he said he would. Part of the problem is
Dick is over
> 65 ( looks maybe 55) and is concerned about losing coverage.
> I'll keep you posted. Gotta go work on Casper.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Garry LeGare wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Elevator Servo Questions |
I just finished up changing mine from manual to electric. It took about 3 -4
hours to make things work ... brackets were labeled incorrectly and thus I
had to modify them to get them to fit through the opening when mounted on the
cover.
Not that difficult but a little time consuming.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
In a message dated 1/15/02 3:41:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, bj034(at)lafn.org
writes:
<< There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made the claim for
> coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be terminated and find it very
> difficult to get insurance in the future. >>
Hey J.T., can you chime in on this, is this for real?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I totally agree. I am building a 7 and got my first ride in an RV Sunday
from John Crabtree and his RV-6. What a nice plane!!!
I went home and really started working the rivet gun hard. This is true
motivation and reinforcement for commitment. John told me he enjoys showing
his plane to others as much as he enjoys flying it. I hope to join in his
attitude some day soon.
Working on wings, fuselage ordered.
Build it and fly it. Mostly fly it. These are my goals and I am sticking
with them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HiSigns1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/15/02 |
Put it in the firewall
Bud Newhouse
finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | leak testing tanks with water |
I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with water.
Has anybody else done this?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
In a message dated 01/16/2002 11:01:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Heard an interesting way of sealing fuel tanks today.
> Apparently one guy applied the sealant to all the ribs and then clecoed
> them
> in place. He came back a week later and then riveted the ribs to the skin
> and applied sealant around each rivet.
>
> Anybody tried this?
>
> Steve
> Kingston
> RV-7A
>
John Peaslee did this on his RV-4 fuel tanks using spring type cleco's.
There needs to bee a cleco in each hole. Don't use any whimpy cleco's.
My sources say that MDAC (Boeing) does it this way. They use threaded
cleco's instead of spring cleco's.
BTW, that "new way" has been a "standard practice" for over 25 years that I
know. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | leak testing tanks with water |
One way to leak test that I did, was to put a balloon on the vent line and
then pressurize the tanks thru the drain valve. Just put enough air in to
inflate balloon. I found the balloon would get bigger when the room warmed
up, and shrink as it cooled. No leaks.!
Edwin L (Ted) French
Prince George BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Schrimmer
Subject: RV-List: leak testing tanks with water
I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with water.
Has anybody else done this?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks with water |
> I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
water.
> Has anybody else done this?
>
I have one of those funnels that doesn't let water pass. Seems to me that
water would not be as good for testing as gas since gas can go where water
can't. It may be good for an initial test; but, the real test is gas.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
There is no requirement for the caps to be engraved but the fuel filler
needs to be placarded and engraving the caps is a nice, clean and good
looking way of doing that.
Steve Davis did mine and you can see what they look like here. One cap is
shown with the lettering highlighted and the other is as they came from the
engraver. Both caps are unpolished at this point.
http://bmnellis.com/wings_page_1.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> Dumb question. Recent threads mentioned having fuel caps engraved.
> What is engraved? Is there some requirement for labeling fuel caps?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Add me to your list
John Ciolino
RV-8 Wings
>
>I would also be interested.
>
>
>Gary M. Coonan
>RV-7 Fuselage
>989WT
>Rockvale, TN
> .
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sanford
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket
>
>
>Hello All,
>
>I am on the "homestretch" of my RV-8 project and will be installing
>insulation in various areas of the cockpit to both insulate and reduce
>noise. The material that I am going to use is manufactured by Orcon, a
>supplier to commercial aircraft manufacturers and is identical to that
>used to insulate their fuselages. It is a fiberglass-type with both
>sides covered by a high-tech material that prevents the insulation from
>giving you "the fiber itch" and also provides some degree of fire
>protection for a short period of time.
>
>The factory was kind enough to provide me with enough material to
>experiment on the best way to fashion the insulation during the project
>and that's my next task. As with so many others that have gone before me
>and made cottage industries out of small aspects of the aircraft
>building "adventure", I have a question for you: are there any RV-8
>builders that would be interested in purchasing an insulation package
>for their project? As I've said, I'm not sure how the final product
>would look, but I am thinking that it would be a number of individual
>numbered pieces each sized for their area and possibly held secure with
>Velcro tape. Of course the area for the back-seater would be covered by
>the floor panels and I envision either cloth side covers or super
>lightweight aerospace hardcover material for the sidewalls (your choice,
>of course-I'm just the insulation guy).
>
>The price? I'm not sure yet depending upon time and materials. I'm just
>trying to gage interest. Maybe around a hundred bucks or so?-Just a
>guess. I DO know that after flying around in the back seat of my buddy's
>RV-8 that any help on the cold-soak issue would be welcome.
>
>If you're at all interested, send me a note and I'll keep you advised of
>what I find and my progress. Thanks for your time.
>
>Bill Sanford
>N511SF
>bsanford(at)silverlink.net
>
>
>>>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks with water |
Mark,
I suppose this would work. My only concern is trapping water in the tank.
I checked mine using auto fuel. I filled them almost to the rear baffle
rivet line (before the baffle was installed) while they were in the tank
fixture. Remember to cap off the vent and fuel feed lines. I
later rechecked the tanks for leaks after installing the rear baffles. If
you want to check your tanks with water before installing the rear baffle,
I would simply leave the tanks out in the sun (or a warm area) after
draining the water. This would allow any residual water to evaporate.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with water.
>Has anybody else done this?
>
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
>Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Hex-Head Engine Plug |
Mike,
All the previous suggestions are good. I'd like to add one more idea. You
mentioned fear of drilling through the plug because you don't want to get
drill chips into the engine. I have a solution for this. Remove the intake
manifold for that cylinder and fill the intake area below the plug with
shaving cream. The shaving cream will contain the metal chips. When
finished, you can remove the debris with a shop vacuum.
I have used this method many times to drill and/or tap the interior areas
of engines. The most common use was to fill a cylinder with shaving cream
so that I could drill, tap and install a HeliCoil insert into a spark plug
hole without removing the cylinder head.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>In order to install my AP fuel injector nozzles in my O-360 I have to
>remove the hex-head plugs on each cylinder. They are installed
>extremely tight, and I got three of them out OK. But on the fourth one
>I rounded the corners of the hex and the bit won't fit any longer. I've
>tried an EZ out that is square shaped and tapered and is tapped into the
>plug, but it just pulls out of the plug as it requires so much torque to
>turn. I'm afraid to pound on it too hard for fear of damaging the head.
> And I don't want to drill all the way through the plug getting debris
>inside the cylinder. Any suggestions?
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 N88MJ cowling
>Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
rv8list(at)onelist.com
Hey gang
anyone know of -RV fly-in at Lakeland 25&26 of Jan.
if so, is anyone from the Alabama (TVRVBG) going?
Thanks
Mike E. RV8 (80hr.)
N72MV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | kitplane's EGT meter |
I would like to build the EGT meter from the recent Kitplanes article
which uses a Radio Shack voltmeter. I don't know enough electronics to
go from the schematic to actual hardware and wondered if someone here
wouldn't mind answering some questions off-list. I have a digital
camera which could help explain some things. Kevin N3773(at)attbi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/16/2002 11:34:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
> Anyone have specs on the correct size O-ring for the fuel tank sump drains?
>
> I have one that seeps if I am not careful to give it a twist (to ensure it
> is
> seated) after a fuel sample is drained. Rather than drain the tank and
> disassemble and measure the part, I thought I would ask the list, and pick
> one up from the hardware store on the way home. Will the standard
> plumbing-type O-ring serve in this application? Or do I need to call an
> aircraft supplier like The $pruce?
The size required is AS568A-006. This is a seal of .062" nom thickness,
.250" OD and .125" ID. All seal distributors will understand this number. I
recommend using O-rings of Viton (Fluorocarbon) elastomer for ALL of our a/c
applications (fuel, braking, etc.) instead of the more common Nitrile
(Buna-n) because it has superior fuel service and temperature specs.
Viton is available in brown or black (and either 75 or 90 durometer
hardness). I like the brown 75 durometer ones, because you can tell by their
color that it's Viton, it seals very well in all temperatures (except in
service below -30 deg F), is impervious to ozone/weathering and is tough as
nails.
Parker is one of the larger manufacturers of O-rings and ACE Seal or any of
your local seal suppliers should stock these. ACE's P/N is 2-006 V75 Brown.
Contact info, as always, is listed in the RV Builders' Yeller Pages on the
web.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel in the rear of an -8... |
Bill,
Thanks for the heads - up on the rear seat panel. I am at the point where I
am trying to figure what to put there and Ed's solution looks very nice. I
am thinking of rigging my icom radio instead of the compass. With a main
power connection and spare batteries, I'll have a fair redundancy. Do Not
Archive
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
; "Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
Subject: RV-List: Panel in the rear of an -8...
>
> I was just browsing around the net tonight and came across Ed Kowalski's
> RV-8 Project... Just followed a link from my own web site.....ha ha!
>
> Anyway, check out the rear seat inst. panel...
>
> http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~bkowalsk/index6.htm
>
> Home page: http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~bkowalsk/
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | leak testing tanks with water |
Hello,
I suggest you consider using balloons to seal the vents injecting air
through the drain valve EVER SO SLOWLY AND EVER SO GENTLY AND AFTER
MAYBE a WEEK of CURING. Or you will turn your tank into a balloon like
Donald Duck's nephews did to his new car, or as in my case, create leaks
that were not there. Trivia points if you know the title of the cartoon
I speak of.
Then using a bottle of MR. BUBBLE, yep you heard me right, dribble it
down all the rivet lines and it will show you any leaks. You can use it
to find out how much to tighten the gas cap too. Works as good as SNOOP
(plumber's supply store) at a fraction of the price.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV-8 SB Canoe
Moscow, ID 83843
I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
water.
Has anybody else done this?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | starter ring gear |
Does anyone know where I could find a used starter ring gear for an IO 360
A1A?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks |
Hi Mark,
Water is thicker than Av. gas and will not necessarily leak where Av. gas
might. Also being a clear liquid its not that easy to spot small seepages
etc.
I used an automotive radiator pressure testing pump that has a gauge on it
that reads from 0 to 30 lb.
It allowed very good control at low pressures 1 to 2 lb.
At the point that I could to see the pressure just begin to move the skins I
sprayed the tank all over with soapy water.
I then left the tanks to sit in the pressured state and re-soaped an hour
later.
This worked well for me.
You might rent or borrow one of these pumps from someone in your area. Most
auto repair shops or rad shops should have one handy.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: leak testing tanks with water
>
> I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
water.
> Has anybody else done this?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
> Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lakeland fly-in |
The following was put together for the Forida RV builders at SNF. I think it
will be lots of fun.
Craig Hiers
> JANUARY: Sun N Fun is sponsoring an RV Weekend at the Sun N Fun grounds,
> Lakeland Linder Airport, on January 25th and 26th. ALL AIRCRAFT TYPES are
> WELCOME, but the RVs will be the "featured plane" of the weekend with
> special reserved parking. THE ONLY QUALIFICATION TO ATTEND IS THAT YOU ARE
> BUILDING, FLYING OR DREAMING OF AN RV (or know somebody who is). DRIVE INS
> WECOME. We hope to make this an annual event.
>
> This is an informal GRASS ROUTES non-commercial type of event. There will
> be FREE camping on Friday night (for tents and recreational vehicles)
> January 25th; we'll order Pizza and sodas delivered for dinner. Saturday
AM
> EAA Chapter 454 will be cooking pancakes for breakfast ($4.00) and hot
dogs
> for lunch (price to be determined). There will be 3 RV seminars run back
to
> back in the FAA building starting at 9:30 am : "Go Fast" RV
Modifications;
> Bernie Kerr's RV Odessey to Alaska; and an Alternative Engine panel
> discussion on the Rotary Engine in RV aircraft. Door prizes will be
> awarded.
>
> There is NO LIMIT to the number of planes that can attend and we are
hoping
> for RVs from all over the country and to make this an annual event.
> ANYTHING YOU CAN DO TO PROMOTE THIS EVENT IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
>
> Questions? Contact Laura Crook at laura_crook(at)hotmail.com 386-935-2973
OR
> Paul Hopkins dphisam(at)mycidco.com 863-665-6241
>
>
> Hey gang
> anyone know of -RV fly-in at Lakeland 25&26 of Jan.
> if so, is anyone from the Alabama (TVRVBG) going?
> Thanks
> Mike E. RV8 (80hr.)
> N72MV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: starter ring gear |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Bobby Osburne 940-682-4220
Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx
dons6a(at)juno.com
***************************************
writes:
>
>
> Does anyone know where I could find a used starter ring gear for an
> IO 360
> A1A?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: starter ring gear |
--- "F. Parker Thomas" wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know where I could find a used starter ring gear for an
> IO 360
> A1A?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
Parker:
Not sure if you need the whole assembly or just the gear. You can get
the gear replaced. Performance AeroEngines
http://www.performanceaeroengines.com/ just replaced the gear on a
friend's StarDuster II. (AEIO-360) I think he paid $175 for the new
gear, installation, and alodine of the aluminum pulley/flywheel.
Hope this helps. Ron Munson is an honest local businessman. I have
had excellent service from him. When I need used parts that he does
not have, I have used El Reno with great results.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just talking about this |
Yes, I already did yesterday. Recap:
He did have AIG coverage. He had not talked to them... the advice he got
was not from me or any other person associated with AIG. He has filed a
claim. He has authorized me to post all of this.
I think the rumor mill ginned this up when a friend of Dick's posted on here
the post you included. He did not identify who told him... everyone on the
list immediately assumed it was his insurance company... trying to scare
him.
I had to hold my tongue pretty much because until Dick told me it was o.k. I
couldn't talk about his situation... I am his agent, and there are rules
about privacy. After all this posting went on, Dick called me and filed a
claim and he said it was ok for me to post here some info about his coverage
and dispell the rumors.
Basically, my point to the list is ...If you have a claim, FILE A CLAIM!!
Even if your premium will go up a little (although it probably won't for
Dick on a 10 - 15K claim). Usually the amount it increases (if it does at
all) is so tiny compared to the payout on the claim that it would take 100
years worth of paying that increase to make up for it. Usually a claim is
only taken into consideration for 3 years (sometimes 5 if it was really bad
and it was a serious lapse in judgement).
The other point that was made was about other companies not quoting you if
you have had a claim. Generally, that is true, when an insurance company
pays out a large sum of $ in a claim, other companies will not quote you for
a few years. (Unless there are extenuating circumstances... like the co.
that paid the claim doesn't cover the type of plane your are replacing your
wrecked one with for example.)
Most insurance company applications ask you questions about more than just
claims... so not filing a claim will not alleviate your need to report to an
insurance company that you had a loss (usually the ? is has any pilot listed
had any aviation claims/losses/violations in the last 5 years... or
something like that.) And not reporting it is not a good option, if you've
had one... gives the insurance company a chance to deny coverage when you do
have a claim (might as well not buy the insurance if your not going to
truthfully disclose that info).
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: just talking about this
In a message dated 1/15/02 3:41:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, bj034(at)lafn.org
writes:
<< There was insurance in place , but Dick was told if he made the claim for
> coverage, approx. $11,000. damage, he would be terminated and find it
very
> difficult to get insurance in the future. >>
Hey J.T., can you chime in on this, is this for real?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Hi!
I think I might be the guy you're talking about. I used this method and it
worked like a charm! My friend Rick Galati, who was a
McDonnell-Douglas/Boeing employee for over 30 years turned me on to the
method and I am really glad he did. It seriously decreased the Proseal mess
we have all come to know and love. Incidentally, I just installed the
baffle on one tank and squeezed the rivets. On my second tank I am going to
drive them. The worst aspect of Proseal (in my mind) is the lubricating
effect it has on rivets. It is extremely hard to control a pneumatic
squeezer with slick rivets, and I don't know how you would do it with a hand
squeezer.
One more thing. If you use the "proseal now rivet later" method, be sure
and apply a dab of proseal to every hole prior to inserting a rivet. It
helps ensure a good seal, but still isn't as messy as doing it all at once.
Jim Bower
St. Louis MO, RV-6A
Almost done with the wings (thank goodness!)
>From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:00:06 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 01/16/2002 11:01:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > Heard an interesting way of sealing fuel tanks today.
> > Apparently one guy applied the sealant to all the ribs and then clecoed
> > them
> > in place. He came back a week later and then riveted the ribs to the
>skin
> > and applied sealant around each rivet.
> >
> > Anybody tried this?
> >
> > Steve
> > Kingston
> > RV-7A
> >
>
>John Peaslee did this on his RV-4 fuel tanks using spring type cleco's.
>There needs to bee a cleco in each hole. Don't use any whimpy cleco's.
>My sources say that MDAC (Boeing) does it this way. They use threaded
>cleco's instead of spring cleco's.
>
>BTW, that "new way" has been a "standard practice" for over 25 years that I
>know. :-)
>
>Jim Ayers
>RV-3 N47RV
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks |
The use of a positive pressure pump without a preset relief can cause big
problems at very low pressures. The use of a balloon or water manometer is
strongly suggested. Lung pressure is generally MORE than enough. Although
gasoline is in the range of 45 pounds per cubic foot, the force per SQUARE
inch when at a depth of 1 foot is only 0.3 psi. If you pull 6 "g"s it would
only be 1.8 psi. The large area of a fuel tank makes this a rather high
over all loading. So be very careful in pressurizing or pulling a vacuum on
your tanks. You can destroy them very easily.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: leak testing tanks
Hi Mark,
Water is thicker than Av. gas and will not necessarily leak where Av. gas
might. Also being a clear liquid its not that easy to spot small seepages
etc.
I used an automotive radiator pressure testing pump that has a gauge on it
that reads from 0 to 30 lb.
It allowed very good control at low pressures 1 to 2 lb.
At the point that I could to see the pressure just begin to move the skins I
sprayed the tank all over with soapy water.
I then left the tanks to sit in the pressured state and re-soaped an hour
later.
This worked well for me.
You might rent or borrow one of these pumps from someone in your area. Most
auto repair shops or rad shops should have one handy.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: leak testing tanks with water
>
> I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
water.
> Has anybody else done this?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
> Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Prull <sprull(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/13/02 |
Bill,
I have a completed empennage (except for the fiberglass tip attachment).
Its for sale along with the serial number, manuals, and documentation. I
have lots of digital photos of the project.
Steve
Bend, OR
541-383-8277
>looking for a project that someone had to quit on, preferably a
>quickbuild
>rv-8 or partially started kit..
>
>
>please email or call
>Bill Phillips
>501-944-4357
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Installing AFP boost pump |
Some time back I said I would let the list know how this worked out. Was
trying to get both the gascolator and pump into the wing root. Am at
that stage now, spent most of yesterday on it and the end result is the
same as Jim Norman's post.
Didn't realize that the pump width was greater than the space available
until now and as Jim has pointed out things get real busy in the
plumbing end of it. Am a believer in the KISS system so am mounting the
gascolator only in the wing root.
The pump is going on the firewall low down on the left side on the
engine side with cooling air supplied.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Whelen Tail Light - how to mount |
Doyal Plute (& rest of RV-list),
I'm building an RV-6 and have the cutout made for the Whelen
strobe/position. I'd like to use -4-40 platenuts inside to capture the tiny
4-40 thread screws that came with the light. I've found a miniature "corner
platenuts" that is manufactured but Spruce, Wicks, nor Van's, nor Whelen,
stock it. So, I can buy 100 for $39 and donate the rest to Whelen to stock
for folks like you and me. The purpose of this e-mail is to ask: Does
anyone have any of these tiny platenuts left over or know of someone who has
some?
I did an archive search on "tail"&"light" and only got Doyles e-mail and one
response that suggested epoxying in the nuts. The rest of this e-mail is to
provide some detail to go into the archive for future searchers. Disregard
it if you have other interests/concerns at this time.
I want platenuts, not epoxied nuts, for durability. The rudder bottom will
be riveted on so removal of rudder bottom won't be a future option - need
the platenuts or nuts to be there, in proper position, for sure.
I'll have enough slack in the wires that the tail light fixture can be
pulled aft and out for replacement of bulb and/or entire fixture if ever
damaged. For rudder removal, I'll have a slot in front lower part of
fiberglass rudder bottom so wires and connectors can be pulled out and
disconnected so rudder can be taken off without cutting wires.
I've used my Dremel's carbide tip cutter and ground off the bottom tip of
the aft bulkhead just to right of steel tail wheel strut coming out of
aircraft, so as to enlarge the small gap there to accept end of a 3/8"
aluminum tube (.035 wall thickness from Spruce), which I bent to a slight S
shape - I then enlarged the square hole for lower longeron thru next to last
bulkhead to also take the 3/8 tube, then inserted the tube aft and down into
the hole in aft b'head. Now I have a conduit for running the 3 wires for
the strobe (after using pin extractor to temporarily remove AMP connector
shell). I'll probably do same for the 2 tail light wires - I'm going to
bring the ground wire back up to aft deck near leading edge of Horiz Stab
and attach with a screw and washer to get a good ground. I checked
resistance from there to firewall thru fuselage and confirmed there is zero
resistance, so it is a good ground point.
By mounting the power supply on the aft deck just in front of Vert Stab
spar, the factory's 3 wire bundle for strobe will go thru that conduit and
go 2.5 to 3" into front of fiberglass rudder bottom - no mod required. The
two wire bundles for position (2 wire) and strobe (3 wires) coming out of
the light itself are both cut in the middle between the light fixture and
factory's AMP connectors, and additional wires soldered in so as to have a 1
foot service loop for slack.
The slot in front of fiberglass rudder bottom will be "30 degrees wide" so
wires coming out back of fuselage will not be flexed as rudder is moved full
deflection during taxing, etc. I plan to secure the wires near centerline
with a clamp as they come out of fuselage and enter the front of the rudder
near center.
David Carter
RV-6
Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | kitplane's EGT meter |
Kevin,
Let me know what you need and what month the article was in Kitplanes.
Thermocouples put out very small voltages (CHT's will run 7 -11 MV for 300
to 400 deg and EGT 29-32 MV
for 1300 to 1400 degrees.) and connections are critical.
I have a group the makes prototype circuit boards if you need one to mount
components.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kevin lane [SMTP:n3773(at)attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: kitplane's EGT meter
>
>
> I would like to build the EGT meter from the recent Kitplanes article
> which uses a Radio Shack voltmeter. I don't know enough electronics to
> go from the schematic to actual hardware and wondered if someone here
> wouldn't mind answering some questions off-list. I have a digital
> camera which could help explain some things. Kevin N3773(at)attbi.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks |
List,
I used a tire valve stem cut off and clamped to a piece of fuel line which
in turn was clamped to the vent line fitting. Clamped a "punch ball" ( heavy
balloon) to the fuel outlet fitting and sealed all other openings. Then
inflated with compressed air till the punch ball was well inflated. The ball
acted as a pressure regulator so that the tank was not over pressurized, and
as a reservoir for maintaining pressure during the test. Soapy water was
then sprayed over all joints/rivets/ to look for leaks. Worked great for me.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 flying since '98
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: leak testing tanks
>Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:24:57 -0600
>
>
>The use of a positive pressure pump without a preset relief can cause big
>problems at very low pressures. The use of a balloon or water manometer is
>strongly suggested. Lung pressure is generally MORE than enough. Although
>gasoline is in the range of 45 pounds per cubic foot, the force per SQUARE
>inch when at a depth of 1 foot is only 0.3 psi. If you pull 6 "g"s it
>would
>only be 1.8 psi. The large area of a fuel tank makes this a rather high
>over all loading. So be very careful in pressurizing or pulling a vacuum on
>your tanks. You can destroy them very easily.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: leak testing tanks
>
>
>Hi Mark,
>
>Water is thicker than Av. gas and will not necessarily leak where Av. gas
>might. Also being a clear liquid its not that easy to spot small seepages
>etc.
>
>I used an automotive radiator pressure testing pump that has a gauge on it
>that reads from 0 to 30 lb.
>It allowed very good control at low pressures 1 to 2 lb.
>At the point that I could to see the pressure just begin to move the skins
>I
>sprayed the tank all over with soapy water.
>I then left the tanks to sit in the pressured state and re-soaped an hour
>later.
>This worked well for me.
>You might rent or borrow one of these pumps from someone in your area. Most
>auto repair shops or rad shops should have one handy.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
>To: "rv-list-matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: leak testing tanks with water
>
>
> >
> > I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
>water.
> > Has anybody else done this?
> >
> > Mark Schrimmer
> > RV-9A--Almost ready to proseal tanks
> > Irvine, CA
> >
> >
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sam jones" <silentsamson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tail wheel problem |
Dear listers anybody out there have a non necked down tail wheel spring for
either Vans or Aviation Products full swivel tail wheel. I would like to buy
it or trade for the new necked down style. I need it because the tail wheel
spring mount already has hole that I want to reuse and it is in the necked
down area of new style spring. Thank you.
Sam
http://www.matronics.com/
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: kitplane's EGT meter |
Ed - it's Feb 2002 Kitplanes. Jim Weir has an entire engine analyzer,
however, I simply want to have the EGT's displayed. I currently use the
EI gauge that Van's sells. I tire of using the switch to check all the
cylinders so was going to replicate his design and have 4 displays. The
LOW/HI LED's I don't see as necessary for each cylinder, but would like
to have a single set of lights that any of the cylinders could trigger.
I can send you a photo of the schematic and the parts I've bought so
far. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Cole, Ed
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: kitplane's EGT meter
Kevin,
Let me know what you need and what month the article was in Kitplanes.
Thermocouples put out very small voltages (CHT's will run 7 -11 MV for
300
to 400 deg and EGT 29-32 MV
for 1300 to 1400 degrees.) and connections are critical.
I have a group the makes prototype circuit boards if you need one to
mount
components.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kevin lane [SMTP:n3773(at)attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: kitplane's EGT meter
>
>
> I would like to build the EGT meter from the recent Kitplanes
article
> which uses a Radio Shack voltmeter. I don't know enough electronics
to
> go from the schematic to actual hardware and wondered if someone
here
> wouldn't mind answering some questions off-list. I have a digital
> camera which could help explain some things. Kevin N3773(at)attbi.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks with water |
In a message dated 1/16/2002 7:26:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
> > I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
> water.
> > Has anybody else done this?
> >
>
> I have one of those funnels that doesn't let water pass. Seems to me that
> water would not be as good for testing as gas since gas can go where water
> can't. It may be good for an initial test; but, the real test is gas.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
Get a small balloon put it the fuel fitting, using some black electrical tape
wrap the end of the balloon. Turn your air pressure down as low as you can go
on your air compressor. Very carefully add air inside your tank the balloon
will fills up. Cap off the vent. if you have a leak in the tank the balloon
goes limp, if in two days there is still air in your tank every thing is
sealed and your good to go, there will be a small amount of leak down but not
much.
CAUTION: THE BALLOON WILL ALLOW ONLY 1-2 PSI INSIDE THE TANK....ADD AIR
SLOWLY SO NOT TO DISTORT YOUR TANK
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
I received my RAM mount for the IPAQ a few days ago and am very satisfied
with
the quality of the product.
It was ordered from gpscity.com part number RAPB138CO1 for $27.95
It consists of the IPAQ cradle, 2.5" base mount, and arm assembly.
The IPAQ snaps into the cradle with the accessory pack and still has about
.5"
space between the back of the IPAQ to the back of the cradle.
If you have specific questions about the setup, email me personally.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks with water |
> I saw a guy on the web who leak-tested his tanks by filling them with
water.
> Has anybody else done this?
Don't use water - air inside with soapy water painted on the outside is
thousands of times more sensitive at detecting leaks.
I posted extensively on this a few years ago. I still think the best way is
to use air limited to 1 psi MAX, and soap the outside to look for leaks.
The best way to insure appropriate pressure is to first get a fine pressure
regulator to supply air into a jar. The lid of this jar will have three
hose fittings on it, one for the 1 psi regulated air into the system, one to
the fuel tank, and most importantly, one for a pressure relief column. The
jar is filled to half with water, and the pressure relief column starts just
below the level of the water and extends two feet above the water level in
the jar. Have just enough water to allow about two feet of water to go up
the column. Two feet of water column equals about 1 psi. If the pressure
of 1 psi is exceeded, the water will blow out the top of the relief column.
Soap things up and have a look.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 80 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks |
In a message dated 01/17/2002 9:27:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
> The use of a balloon or water manometer is
> strongly suggested. Lung pressure is generally MORE than enough. Although
> gasoline is in the range of 45 pounds per cubic foot, the force per SQUARE
> inch when at a depth of 1 foot is only 0.3 psi. If you pull 6 "g"s it
> would
> only be 1.8 psi. The large area of a fuel tank makes this a rather high
> over all loading. So be very careful in pressurizing or pulling a vacuum on
> your tanks. You can destroy them very easily.
>
>
I used lung pressure and homemade manometer method.
I put the tank on a table about 3' above the floor. Attached 3/8" ID
polyethylene tubing to the fuel line attach fitting, from there the tubing
was run down to the floor and then back up to about 5' above the floor. I
added water until there was about 2.5' feet of water standing in each side of
the loop. I put a valve on the vent fitting and plugged the drain and fuel
fill. Once it was set I used lung power to pressurize the tank. I moved the
water about 18" up the tube. (My dog barked at me at me the whole time)
After displacing the water I marked it's level on the tube.
It took several tries to get all of the fittings tight (especially the fill
cap), but once it was set it held the level for several days. (Note: The
level fluctuates slightly with the temperature)
This method worked pretty well for me....We'll see what happens in about 18
years when I put gas in them!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4 Ailerons
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Jim,
With the method you used, did you put a cleco in every hole? Did you have
any problems getting the clecos out after the proseal set? Are you able to
reuse the clecos or are they trashed after the prosealing? Sounds like you
haven't leak tested yet if you just installed the baffle, I would be
interested in hearing how it turns out.
Thanks,
Jim Tambs
RV8 wings........tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>
> Hi!
> I think I might be the guy you're talking about. I used this method and
it
> worked like a charm! My friend Rick Galati, who was a
> McDonnell-Douglas/Boeing employee for over 30 years turned me on to the
> method and I am really glad he did. It seriously decreased the Proseal
mess
> we have all come to know and love. Incidentally, I just installed the
> baffle on one tank and squeezed the rivets. On my second tank I am going
to
> drive them. The worst aspect of Proseal (in my mind) is the lubricating
> effect it has on rivets. It is extremely hard to control a pneumatic
> squeezer with slick rivets, and I don't know how you would do it with a
hand
> squeezer.
>
> One more thing. If you use the "proseal now rivet later" method, be sure
> and apply a dab of proseal to every hole prior to inserting a rivet. It
> helps ensure a good seal, but still isn't as messy as doing it all at
once.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis MO, RV-6A
> Almost done with the wings (thank goodness!)
>
>
> >From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
> >Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:00:06 EST
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 01/16/2002 11:01:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> >hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
> >
> >
> > > Heard an interesting way of sealing fuel tanks today.
> > > Apparently one guy applied the sealant to all the ribs and then
clecoed
> > > them
> > > in place. He came back a week later and then riveted the ribs to the
> >skin
> > > and applied sealant around each rivet.
> > >
> > > Anybody tried this?
> > >
> > > Steve
> > > Kingston
> > > RV-7A
> > >
> >
> >John Peaslee did this on his RV-4 fuel tanks using spring type cleco's.
> >There needs to bee a cleco in each hole. Don't use any whimpy cleco's.
> >My sources say that MDAC (Boeing) does it this way. They use threaded
> >cleco's instead of spring cleco's.
> >
> >BTW, that "new way" has been a "standard practice" for over 25 years that
I
> >know. :-)
> >
> >Jim Ayers
> >RV-3 N47RV
> >
> >
>
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I have an RV-4 that is great in every way, except my girlfriend gets cold
while riding in back. Since she loves to fly and even enjoys going upside
down, I need to accomodate her.
I've just finished sealing the canopy, big difference, and have put
insulation on the sides of the canopy.
Now I need to get some heat to her. Has anyone plumbed heat to the back of
an RV4? Sitting at my desk at home, imagining I don't think there is any
way to run a duct past the spar.
Thoughts/Advice appreciated.
Don
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Second Heat Question |
Sorry about that, this question slipped my mind. I've heard of people
getting decent results by shoving stainless scrubbies in their heat muff.
It makes sense.
I was at Stop and Shop today and saw Copper scrubbies. Since copper is a
better conductor of heat than steel, would they be an acceptable choice?
I'm not asking if they're better, just acceptable. My mother keeps
forgetting to get the stainless ones from her fuller brush lady, but I can
buy the copper ones the next time I go food shoping.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing AFP boost pump |
Eustace,
My AFP fuel pump and filter are mounted on the engine side of the firewall in
the lower right corner. I have it shrouded with cooling air piped into it.
It's easy to get to to clean the filter and inspect. It would be very
difficult to service or inspect if mounted in the wing root. I know that
firewall space is at a premium but on my next airplane it will be in the
exact same place.
Dave -6, flying, So Cal, CPM
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
> Some time back I said I would let the list know how this worked out. Was
> trying to get both the gascolator and pump into the wing root. Am at
> that stage now, spent most of yesterday on it and the end result is the
> same as Jim Norman's post.
>
> Didn't realize that the pump width was greater than the space available
> until now and as Jim has pointed out things get real busy in the
> plumbing end of it. Am a believer in the KISS system so am mounting the
> gascolator only in the wing root.
>
> The pump is going on the firewall low down on the left side on the
> engine side with cooling air supplied.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans Air Oil Seperator |
Listers has any used Vans Air Oli Seperator and if so would you recomend it?
Thanks
Rod & Rollie
RV6A at the airport!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: leak testing tanks |
Subject: Re: RV-List: leak testing tanks
The manometer method described by Hal Benjamin is one of the safest and most
reliable methods of leak testing. Under no circumstances would I ever,
ever, deliberately put foreign material in a fuel tank. A friend of mine
had a very near thing when test flying a new aircraft that had been leak
tested with water. His thoroughness helped him, but luck played a very
large part.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
When I transmit on the radio the Vans amp gauge goes -40 and the manifold
guage goes full deflection also the cht and egt values change???
Any ideas???
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Venting |
In a message dated 1/17/2002 3:37:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
> I know they
> are not all created equal, but insurance companies(of all kinds) really get
>
> me going. Some automobile insurers are now "profiling" their customers in
> a
> new way.
Jim-
Although I don't profile very well on anyone's actuarial tables (I always lie
to survey takers just for fun and they insist my standard deviations are far
too deviant), the AIG insurance (thru Chaparral) on my 6A went from $1180
last year to $1289 for all the normal limits plus $60K hull.
I expected the price to be higher, considering the losses to aviation claims
in 2001, so I'm relieved this time around.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen Tail Light - how to mount |
In a message dated 1/17/2002 8:10:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
> I'm building an RV-6 and have the cutout made for the Whelen
> strobe/position. I'd like to use -4-40 platenuts inside to capture the
> tiny
> 4-40 thread screws that came with the light. I've found a miniature
> "corner
> platenuts" that is manufactured but Spruce, Wicks, nor Van's, nor Whelen,
> stock it. So, I can buy 100 for $39 and donate the rest to Whelen to stock
> for folks like you and me. The purpose of this e-mail is to ask: Does
> anyone have any of these tiny platenuts left over or know of someone who
> has
> some?
Are these the NAS698-04 corner platenuts? Did you try Skybolt Aeromotive
(Apopka, FL) or Olander (Sunnyvale, CA) or Norcal (San Leandro or Hayward,
CA)?
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
> Are you able to reuse
> the clecos or are they trashed after the prosealing?
On my first tank, I took every cleco out and cleaned it off with acetone
before the proseal dried. Made for one late, stinky night I can tell you.
On the second tank I said screw that, I'll buy new clecos if I have to, and
just let the stuff dry on /in them. Guess what -- much of the dried proseal
came off the first time I squeezed them with the cleco pliers. Some of them
remained a little sticky and a few never seemed to recover but most were
still useable. Bottom line, its really not worth the trouble to try to clean
them off.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Jim,
You're not the only one waiting to see how it turns out! For safety's sake,
I'm going to let the proseal cure for a couple of more weeks before I leak
test the tanks. Rick, the guy who turned me on to this method, used it on
his tanks and they do not leak. And, yes, do use a cleco in every hole. I
had no problems getting the clecos out, and the proseal just rubs off of
them. In fact, a little proseal residue on the business end of the clecos
makes them fit a little tighter when you go to use them again. Rick said
that at McDonnell-Douglas they used to throw their clecos into an ultrasonic
cleaner and they came out looking brand new. That might be overkill, but if
you have access to one it might be worth a try.
I will announce to the list the results of my leak test.
Jim
>From: "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:29:59 -0500
>
>
>Jim,
>
>With the method you used, did you put a cleco in every hole? Did you have
>any problems getting the clecos out after the proseal set? Are you able to
>reuse the clecos or are they trashed after the prosealing? Sounds like you
>haven't leak tested yet if you just installed the baffle, I would be
>interested in hearing how it turns out.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Tambs
>RV8 wings........tanks
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>
>
> >
> > Hi!
> > I think I might be the guy you're talking about. I used this method and
>it
> > worked like a charm! My friend Rick Galati, who was a
> > McDonnell-Douglas/Boeing employee for over 30 years turned me on to the
> > method and I am really glad he did. It seriously decreased the Proseal
>mess
> > we have all come to know and love. Incidentally, I just installed the
> > baffle on one tank and squeezed the rivets. On my second tank I am
>going
>to
> > drive them. The worst aspect of Proseal (in my mind) is the lubricating
> > effect it has on rivets. It is extremely hard to control a pneumatic
> > squeezer with slick rivets, and I don't know how you would do it with a
>hand
> > squeezer.
> >
> > One more thing. If you use the "proseal now rivet later" method, be
>sure
> > and apply a dab of proseal to every hole prior to inserting a rivet. It
> > helps ensure a good seal, but still isn't as messy as doing it all at
>once.
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis MO, RV-6A
> > Almost done with the wings (thank goodness!)
> >
> >
> > >From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
> > >Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:00:06 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >In a message dated 01/16/2002 11:01:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > >hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > > Heard an interesting way of sealing fuel tanks today.
> > > > Apparently one guy applied the sealant to all the ribs and then
>clecoed
> > > > them
> > > > in place. He came back a week later and then riveted the ribs to the
> > >skin
> > > > and applied sealant around each rivet.
> > > >
> > > > Anybody tried this?
> > > >
> > > > Steve
> > > > Kingston
> > > > RV-7A
> > > >
> > >
> > >John Peaslee did this on his RV-4 fuel tanks using spring type cleco's.
> > >There needs to bee a cleco in each hole. Don't use any whimpy cleco's.
> > >My sources say that MDAC (Boeing) does it this way. They use threaded
> > >cleco's instead of spring cleco's.
> > >
> > >BTW, that "new way" has been a "standard practice" for over 25 years
>that
>I
> > >know. :-)
> > >
> > >Jim Ayers
> > >RV-3 N47RV
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | fuel tank testing |
Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. My tech suggested using an
altimeter as a pressure gauge, as you add air to the tank the altimeter
shows a lower altitude. If there is a leak the altimeter will show an
altitude gain, and they are very sensitive.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Caswell Plating - good guys |
One good use of the RV Builder's list is to recommend companies/products
that have served us well and to flame those that have not.
I just want to take a second to mention Caswell Plating. They sell buffing
and plating supplies. I recently placed an order from them. They said it
would be at my house in 3 to 5 days. It arrived in 2 days. There was an
error on my order. They created a classic lemons to lemonade scenario. I
called and spoke to Rick Caswell. He said he would take care of it. Two
days later the correct items arrived.
Everyone makes errors occasionally. More telling is how a company follows
up after the fact. Caswell is a customer service oriented company that we
2000 members of this list should support. If you've admired the way finely
detailed planes look, with their nickel plated nick nacks and polished
auminum items, you should check Caswell out. You might be surprised how
inexpensive it is to get started with a polishing or plating kit.
Don Mei
p.s. I have no interest in the company and have received no compensation
for this message. (just for the cynical out there)
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 firewall dimensions |
I was going to order some insulation from soundproofing.org and realized
that I don't know the dimensions of my firewall. Do any of you know the
approx height/width of an RV-4 firewall.
I only get list summaries, so please also send reply to this email address.
Thanks,
Don
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 firewall dimensions |
Mine measures aprox 29 inches high and 24 inches wide. Best I could do with
a tape and the engine hanging on front.
Earl RV4
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> I was going to order some insulation from soundproofing.org and realized
> that I don't know the dimensions of my firewall. Do any of you know the
> approx height/width of an RV-4 firewall.
>
> I only get list summaries, so please also send reply to this email address.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Air Oil Seperator |
I got a chance to check one out just the other day when I was down at the
gentleman's house who designed it. It is very compact and well made. I
haven't actually seen it in action but it it works anywhere near as good as
it looks it may very well revolutionize oil air seperators.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Vans Air Oil Seperator
>Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:09:14 EST
>
>
>Listers has any used Vans Air Oli Seperator and if so would you recomend
>it?
>
>Thanks
>Rod & Rollie
>RV6A at the airport!
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
I just purchased the coolest most convenient vise from Meijer's for
$29.99. Take a look at:
www.quickvise.com
This thing is made in the UK and and is really nice for small objects and
sheet or plate type of stuff. Like aluminum that needs it's edge
finished. You can get an additional base mount item that allows you to put
it on a Work Mate type of bench or just drill a 3/4" hole in any bench for
a quick release mounting system. The Jaws are a semi-hard, smooth,
non-marring plastic so you don't have to use anything else in the jaws to
keep from scratching the surface of the piece you are working on. All you
need to do is just pull out the moveable jaw and push it back against the
work piece and then just give the knob a quick turn to tighten it. I
thought it was so good for our use and relatively inexpensive I would give
you all a heads up on it. Check out the website. Most of you shouldn't
have any trouble finding it locally. AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
Are your antenna leads running in the same bundle as the instrument wires??
If so you may want to seperate them and I would also check the shielding
wire around the antenna lead for proper grounding at each end.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Electrical help
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:13:32 +1100
>
>
>When I transmit on the radio the Vans amp gauge goes -40 and the manifold
>guage goes full deflection also the cht and egt values change???
>Any ideas???
>
>
>Chris and Susie
>VH-MUM (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen Tail Light - how to mount |
James,
Excellent approach. Thank you very much for taking the time to assemble the
photos to atch to e-mail. (comment - your 7 photos were zipped - didn't look
like much difference in size between zipped and un-compressed). I've
attached them un-zipped so they get into the archives.
Also, just yesterday I got Wicks to buy 100 of the 4-40 platenuts, corner
angle (MS1073-L04) - I had to buy 10 at 39 cents each (needed 2) and they
will stock the rest. Say they've never had a demand for them before and
can't stock everything in the world - but I told them I'd tell the RV-list
they had the platenuts and they should get some requests. Ask for Rosalie
if want some.
The 2 platenuts won't arrive my place for 2 weeks, at least.
- I plan to just countersink the back side of the fiberglass so the
flush rivets holding the platenuts will let the light fixture fit flush. I
expect I'll rivet by laying bottom on its side, use some skinny-enough steel
rod as a bucking bar to reach the shop head ends inside, and buck from
aft/outside.
RV-listers, a question: Am I in danger of destroying the fiberglass banging
it with the rivet gun?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "James J. Varney" <jvarney(at)vfpi.com>
Subject: re: Whelen Tail Light - how to mount
> Hi David.
> I just did this last night. I used a 1/16" alum plate, cut it to match
> the bulb cover, drilled a 1-1/8" hole (regular holesaw) in the center,
> drilled to match the screw holes and drilled and countersunk 2 holes for
> csc 4-4 pop rivets. I used JB-Weld to 'glue the brass nuts that came
> with the light to the backside of the plate. I drilled 5/16" holes to
> allow the nuts to go thru the fiberglass (had to ream them some more
> w/dremel tool) and secured the plate with the flush pop rivets and small
> washers to back up the rivets.
>
> I'm enclosing some pictures (sorry for the quality). If you like this
> idea and have any questions, let me know.
>
> James Varney
> -7a Emp
>
> Subject: RV-List: Whelen Tail Light - how to mount
> Doyal Plute (& rest of RV-list),
> I'm building an RV-6 and have the cutout made for the Whelen
> strobe/position. I'd like to use -4-40 platenuts inside to capture the
> tiny
> 4-40 thread screws that came with the light. I've found a miniature
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Caswell Plating - good guys |
Check out: http://www.caswellplating.com/
For more good info on their products. Thanks for the heads up Don! AL
>
>One good use of the RV Builder's list is to recommend companies/products
>that have served us well and to flame those that have not.
>
>I just want to take a second to mention Caswell Plating. They sell buffing
>and plating supplies. (Big Snip).........................
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
Jim,
I'm half way through sealing my first tank and am intrigued by your
method. Once you take the cleco out of the hole after a week, isn't
there proseal smeared on the skin that you can not remove? Do you have
to run a drill bit through the hole after you remove the cleco and before
you install the rivet? Did you use the same method for the rear baffle?
Tell me more.
Thanks, Joe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
> Are your antenna leads running in the same bundle as the instrument
wires??
> If so you may want to seperate them and I would also check the shielding
> wire around the antenna lead for proper grounding at each end.
>
I read that shielded wire only needs to be grounded at one end. That's the
end nearest the source. In this case, it would be the radio. I can't
remember; but, it seems it was another method to help prevent ground loops.
I grounded all of my shielded wires at the source and haven't had any of the
gauges acting up or noise in the radios, etc.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Joe,
I did have to chase some holes with an awl (like I sometimes have to do on
other structures) to get the rivets to fit straight in the hole. As it
turned out, the clecos prevented proseal from filling the holes or coming
out onto the skin. There were lots of little drips of proseal sticking
INside the tank, but I just picked those off.
After I riveted the ribs, I fillet sealed all the rib/skin junctions inside
the tank, naturally paying particular attention to the end ribs. This is
the last best chance to prevent leaks before the baffle is fitted. But even
after the baffle is sealed and riveted, you can still access all four sides
of it in the event of a leak! This is why I didn't use the same method for
my first baffle and won't do so on the second. (Incidentally, the reason I
waited a week between tanks is that I screwed up the baffle on the second
one and had to borrow one from a fellow builder.)
As I said before, the proof is in the pudding, but my friend Rick did this
and had no leaks. If mine leaks (God forbid) I will blame my work and not
the method.
Jim
>From: Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:30:31 -0500
>
>
>Jim,
>
>I'm half way through sealing my first tank and am intrigued by your
>method. Once you take the cleco out of the hole after a week, isn't
>there proseal smeared on the skin that you can not remove? Do you have
>to run a drill bit through the hole after you remove the cleco and before
>you install the rivet? Did you use the same method for the rear baffle?
>
>Tell me more.
>
>Thanks, Joe.
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who knows if this is true |
> Painting one of those birds is VERY expensive to begin with, and a coat of
> paint on a 747 or other widebody can reach nearly 1,000 lbs. depending on
> scheme, colors, graphics, etc...
Yes this is true. I have been painting airliners for a few years now and the
amount of paint that goes on them is frightning. as a matter of, the
difference between upper and lower limits of paint thickness on the whole
aircraft can mean that you may have to leave 2 or 3 fare paying passengers
behind.........
For those that are doubtfull despite everything being said about this
subject, have a look on Akzo Nobel's website. They now have most of the
paintspecs of the most commonly used paints and finishes in Adobe format on
the site.
Every spec will (should)show the thickness of application and the specific
weight per sq meter per micron/mil.
Calculate the entire surface area of you RV ( don't forget to take in the
underneath of wings and fuselage), pick a common system and work
out the difference between the upper limit of thickness in weight and the
lower limit of thickness in weight.
You will be (un)pleasently surprised!
This is something that might persuade you not to paint or to use Aerospace
paint because not all of the automotive suppliers will provide these
figures.
It is also a good motivator to find a painter that knows about aircraft and
the weight issue that goes with them!!
Finally if you do decide to use automotive paint and painters, watch them at
all times!! These painters have a different discipline, they will paint
several coats to obtain that high gloss finish that can be polished by your
teenage son every saturday for exchange of some pocket money.......
In the meantime you are flying around with a few extra pounds of paint that
takes years to polish away!
We all watch the pounds when building, so carry through until the project is
painted as well.
As goes for the environment, the big airliners have the disadvantage of
having to be stripped for every D-check in relation to corrosion inspection.
This means in case of B747's that they'll get stripped every 5-7 years and
repainted after inspection. In turn this means a few 45 gallon drums of
paintstripper and this will have to be disposed of together with the paint
that was on the airplane in the first place.
This is the biggest problem; most paint still contains some of the heavy
metals like lead to name the most important one. Then there's also the issue
of chromates which have now been found to be cancerous.......
Finally, I don't think there's much advatage for RV's to go unpainted.
There's no real gain in it from a commercial perspective other than the
negative side. You will have to realise that if you don't paint your RV,
that every scratch will result in corrosion unless it is polished out fairly
quickly. It does not take long for corrosion to take a hold on aluminum and
in general it's easier getting corrosion than getting rid of it.
I think it is fair to assume that most us will share hangar space and the
all to familiar hangar-rash to name a cause for scratches or dents.
Marcel de Ruiter
Aircraft painter
Rv4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Venting |
In a message dated 1/17/2002 5:37:52 PM Central Standard Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
> Some automobile insurers are now "profiling" their customers in a
> new way. Out here in Seattle, there was a gal that was told her insurance
> policy was cancelled. Why?
> Because a bad mark showed up on her credit rating. It did not matter that
> she was paying in full by check. The company explained that a recent study
>
> showed that if you were a credit risk, the odds were higher that you were a
>
> risk at the wheel also.
Actually most companies do this and it does work. Ok and it wasnt just a bad
mark, it would have had to be something like a collection or bankrupcy.
People with higher credit scores file fewer claims. Its a proven fact. And
if you do think about it, you would understand why. If you have the money
to pay your not going to file that 500 dollar claim. You will pay it out of
pocket. Your also not the person that commints insurance fraud by running
that new snowmobile you cant afford into a tree at the end of the year.
chris wilcox
cgw insurance
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Whelen Tail Light - how to mount |
In a message dated 1/18/02 7:57:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
<< RV-listers, a question: Am I in danger of destroying the fiberglass
banging
it with the rivet gun?
>>
Probably. Suggestion, why don't you use 3/32 pop rivets to secure the
nutplates. I'd use Wicks part number AD32ABS with aluminum mandrell so won't
crush the glass (p-100).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Seal footwells on -8 |
Hello-
I would like to seal the rear footwells so dirt etc
doesn't get in to the subfloor. I haven't played with
the any fiberglass yet - so I was wondering if this
sounds plausable?
>West Systems 105 and 205 Epoxy (I can use this later
on the tips and it won't harm the canopy)
>E-glass fiberglass cloth
>Peel ply to limit the number of bubbles during curing
>UV Smoothprime to finish it smooth
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming? |
All-
I have been using Tempo spray can Zinc primer on the
non-painted internal pieces. Takes forever to REALLY
cure and doesn't spray uniformly - oh well, no one
will see it.
I am working on the cockpit now and wonder if its time
to grow up and use a compressor and gun etc.
Questions:
> Can I continue to use Tempo spray cans to prime the
surfaces and then use a gun to do the final painting
to get a more professional appearance? or should I
start priming with the gun because the quality of the
application of the primer will effect the top coat?
> Will other paints like PPG or Stits etc. bond to
Tempo Zinc primer?
Thanks again
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | instrument panels cutout - "new resource" |
Hi All,
Just thought I would pass this along.
HydroJet Abrasive Maching has just this week offered to provide an aluminum
instrument panel with the instrument cutouts.
$50 for a side by side panel. RV-6, RV-7 or RV-9
$35 for a single seat panel. RV-3, RV-4 or RV-8
Contact Bob Monetti at (805) 375-7099 to work out the details of how you want
your instrument panel.
I've had my RV-3 instrument panel cutout by HydroJet with very good results.
Actually, I had to have two panels made; because he gave me exactly want I
asked for the first time. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"Vans (E-mail)""'RV-List Digest Server'"@matronics.com
Chris and Susie,
I now know of about 8 RVs using Vans new gauges that have this problem, and
when I last checked with Vans they didn't seem to think there is a problem.
I've included them in this cc as well as the rest of the list, but at this
time I am reasonably convinced that they are selling a defective product, or
at least a product that doesn't perform as it should given the common
configurations and installations found on their aircraft. (IE these gauges
work great but they just can't be used around any transmitters)
I personally have tested my RV-6 with two different 'Vans' amp gauges, have
looked at it with a scope (Unfortuneately mine only reads up to 100mhz so I
can't really see what is making the noise) I have tried several Caps and
inductors to shield/absorb this as suggested by the very knowledgeable
electronics folks on this list, all to no avail. Mine tends to send the amp
gauge a different place everytime I transmit. And it does it on any radio.
Some of the other folks just seem get wild gyrations.
I have their MAP and it also fades lower during transmission, I don't have
their cht/egt as they weren't available.
At some time I hope that Vans will be good to their general reputation and
help us figure out what this problem is, as well as then providing a
reasonable remedy. It would seem their instrumentation is too sensitive.
One common denomiator type question I have for all the other folks on the
list with "this problem/these gauges" is are your comm antenna(s) top
mounted or bottom mounted? Mine are both on top. Maybe the folks who have
had success with these gauges have their antennas on the bottom???
Thanks
Wheeler
23841
RV-6 07/07/01 164hrs and flys like an obscene dream, smooth, silky and loads
of pure pleasure
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Electrical help
When I transmit on the radio the Vans amp gauge goes -40 and the manifold
guage goes full deflection also the cht and egt values change???
Any ideas???
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Twisted ribbon graphics |
Does anyone know of a shareware or freeware program that draws twisted and
waving ribbons? I would like to try some on my paint scheme and free hand
drawing them is almost impossible for me.
Ross Mickey
RV-6A Last 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming? |
Been there done that. While some have had luck with spray painting the
interior, it was a nightmare for me.
See:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/paint.htm
I didn't shoot any primer out of a gun. Any good rattle can primer will
spray fine. You can run over it with some 400 if you like just to get that
smooth finish. As long as you paint with quality paint from a quality gun,
you should be ok.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming?
>
> All-
>
> I have been using Tempo spray can Zinc primer on the
> non-painted internal pieces. Takes forever to REALLY
> cure and doesn't spray uniformly - oh well, no one
> will see it.
>
> I am working on the cockpit now and wonder if its time
> to grow up and use a compressor and gun etc.
>
> Questions:
>
> > Can I continue to use Tempo spray cans to prime the
> surfaces and then use a gun to do the final painting
> to get a more professional appearance? or should I
> start priming with the gun because the quality of the
> application of the primer will effect the top coat?
>
> > Will other paints like PPG or Stits etc. bond to
> Tempo Zinc primer?
>
> Thanks again
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James J. Varney" <jvarney(at)vfpi.com> |
| Subject: | Tail/Strobe mounting |
Hi all.
I just posted some info on how I mounted my taillight.
Took me longer to figure out what I wanted to do than it did
to make it.
Hope this helps someone. I thought it turned out pretty good and
I didn't have to deal with 'glassing something in to hold it on.
I don't think the added weight is a factor.
see it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/files/Strobe/
James Varney
-7a #70162
Emp tips
N53JV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seal footwells on -8 |
Dag
was thinking along the same lines, i was just going to use old proseal
to cover the open slots in the bottom of the wells. Looked to me fiber
was too much of a hassle with the chance of moisture getting trapped
between the fiberglass and the alu.
Gert
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> Hello-
>
> I would like to seal the rear footwells so dirt etc
> doesn't get in to the subfloor. I haven't played with
> the any fiberglass yet - so I was wondering if this
> sounds plausable?
>
> >West Systems 105 and 205 Epoxy (I can use this later
> on the tips and it won't harm the canopy)
>
> >E-glass fiberglass cloth
>
> >Peel ply to limit the number of bubbles during curing
>
> >UV Smoothprime to finish it smooth
>
> Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
This is just for the archives
I was plagued with oil on the belly. It was not enough to really see much
change on the dip stick, but a little looks like a lot when spread out on
the belly.
I did all the typical things...dye in the oil, used a black light and
couldn't find a thing. Cleaned the engine with Gunk and washed it down,
dried it with the air compressor. No help. I worked for several months with
no real progress.
Talked to an 'old timer' who said, "Always look at what you did last" - the
last thing I had done was to install a new oil cooler. Sure enough, one of
its adapter fittings (pipe-to-flare) was about one turn too loose, but there
was no indication of oil at that point whatever.
The amount of turbulent air in the area forward of the firewall and behind
the engine baffles is so great that the little oil coming out was blasted
down and out of the cowling's bottom and ended up on the belly.
Firmly seating that fitting has stopped the oil on the belly completely. Now
my new M-20 oil/air separator is getting a fair try out, and seems to work
as advertised.
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Seal footwells on -8 |
I used some aluminum tape that I got from Spruce to seal the foot
wells...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - 90% done, 90% to go
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seal footwells on -8
Dag
was thinking along the same lines, i was just going to use old proseal
to cover the open slots in the bottom of the wells. Looked to me fiber
was too much of a hassle with the chance of moisture getting trapped
between the fiberglass and the alu.
Gert
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> Hello-
>
> I would like to seal the rear footwells so dirt etc
> doesn't get in to the subfloor. I haven't played with
> the any fiberglass yet - so I was wondering if this
> sounds plausable?
>
> >West Systems 105 and 205 Epoxy (I can use this later
> on the tips and it won't harm the canopy)
>
> >E-glass fiberglass cloth
>
> >Peel ply to limit the number of bubbles during curing
>
> >UV Smoothprime to finish it smooth
>
> Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
Jim,
That does NOT apply to com radio antenna leads. If you value your radio, ground
both ends AND check VSWR before using the radio.
Dave -6 So Cal
Jim Sears wrote:
> I read that shielded wire only needs to be grounded at one end. That's the
> end nearest the source. In this case, it would be the radio. I can't
> remember; but, it seems it was another method to help prevent ground loops.
> I grounded all of my shielded wires at the source and haven't had any of the
> gauges acting up or noise in the radios, etc.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I have a similar problem. I have posted to both the RV-List and the
AeroElectric List. Check the archives on both and see if any of the
responses make sense. Electric Bob simply says that I should omit the
ammeter. (Actually nothing he says is simple to me, but that's how I
translate it.)
Steve Soule
N227RV (RV-6A)
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
When I transmit on the radio the Vans amp gauge goes -40 and the manifold
guage goes full deflection also the cht and egt values change???
Any ideas???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
Joe,
I did have to chase some holes with an awl (like I sometimes have to
do on
other structures) to get the rivets to fit straight in the hole. As
it
turned out, the clecos prevented proseal from filling the holes or
coming
out onto the skin. There were lots of little drips of proseal
sticking
INside the tank, but I just picked those off.
After I riveted the ribs, I fillet sealed all the rib/skin junctions
inside
the tank, naturally paying particular attention to the end ribs. This
is
the last best chance to prevent leaks before the baffle is fitted.
But even
after the baffle is sealed and riveted, you can still access all four
sides
of it in the event of a leak! This is why I didn't use the same
method for
my first baffle and won't do so on the second. (Incidentally, the
reason I
waited a week between tanks is that I screwed up the baffle on the
second
one and had to borrow one from a fellow builder.)
As I said before, the proof is in the pudding, but my friend Rick did
this
and had no leaks. If mine leaks (God forbid) I will blame my work and
not
the method.
Jim
>From: Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:30:31 -0500
>
>
>Jim,
>
>I'm half way through sealing my first tank and am intrigued by your
>method. Once you take the cleco out of the hole after a week, isn't
>there proseal smeared on the skin that you can not remove? Do you
have
>to run a drill bit through the hole after you remove the cleco and
before
>you install the rivet? Did you use the same method for the rear
baffle?
>
>Tell me more.
>
>Thanks, Joe.
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
I keep seeing the phrase "mine didn't leak" and have to chuckle. As
with the phrase "...and those who haven't yet landed wheels up..." don't
be surprised if those tanks spring a leak some day. Mine did after four
years. Doug Stenger who has built over 25 sets of wings (that's 50
tanks!) will still have one leak for unknown reasons. So just get the
proper attitude that someday you most likely will have to repair your
tank regardless of how well you built it originally. My leak must be at
the high point, so only when the tank is left full is it a problem, so,
it's on the "to do" list. I repaired the other from the outside,
figuring it was worth the try. Of course maybe these leaks are G
related, in which case they 've had a hard life!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
Joe,
I did have to chase some holes with an awl (like I sometimes have to
do on
other structures) to get the rivets to fit straight in the hole. As
it
turned out, the clecos prevented proseal from filling the holes or
coming
out onto the skin. There were lots of little drips of proseal
sticking
INside the tank, but I just picked those off.
After I riveted the ribs, I fillet sealed all the rib/skin junctions
inside
the tank, naturally paying particular attention to the end ribs. This
is
the last best chance to prevent leaks before the baffle is fitted.
But even
after the baffle is sealed and riveted, you can still access all four
sides
of it in the event of a leak! This is why I didn't use the same
method for
my first baffle and won't do so on the second. (Incidentally, the
reason I
waited a week between tanks is that I screwed up the baffle on the
second
one and had to borrow one from a fellow builder.)
As I said before, the proof is in the pudding, but my friend Rick did
this
and had no leaks. If mine leaks (God forbid) I will blame my work and
not
the method.
Jim
>From: Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way?
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:30:31 -0500
>
>
>Jim,
>
>I'm half way through sealing my first tank and am intrigued by your
>method. Once you take the cleco out of the hole after a week, isn't
>there proseal smeared on the skin that you can not remove? Do you
have
>to run a drill bit through the hole after you remove the cleco and
before
>you install the rivet? Did you use the same method for the rear
baffle?
>
>Tell me more.
>
>Thanks, Joe.
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Interior Items to Paint |
If you get Becki's interior, you should paint the following:
Instrument panel
Top deck on top of the longerons
Canopy Frame
Seat Pans
Fuel Selector plate
Back baggage bulkhead
longerons in baggage area
seat backs
605? (The big bar that the seats rest on between the seats and the baggage
area)
If you have a tip up, then paint the back of the panel and the subpanel to
match, as well as any braces that are visible when the canopy is open
Any roll bars (tip up or slider)
and....make sure your canopy is not anywhere near your garage when you
paint. Take it in the house, outside, whatever. I don't know what it is,
static electricity or something, but no matter what, paint seems to find
it's way onto the plexi, even when covered with plastic!
That's about all I can think of from memory (the airplane is at the airport)
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Funk" <davendana1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV 6/6a kits for sale |
RV-6 WING AND 2 TAIL KITS FOR SALE!! RV 6/6A Wing kit and 2 tail kits for
sale. Phlogiston spar option on wings, 1 wing completed, but tank needs
final leak check. L/H wing skeleton completed and 3 skins drilled. Leading
edges on this wing not started. Ailerons and Flaps done. 1st tail kit was
started but so-so workmanship-could be easily salvaged and has new
horizontal stab and elevator skins. Other tail kit has all parts completed
except L/H elevator which only needs trim tab and finishing up. Workmanship
on these parts (wing also) I would say is a "8". All plans included as well
as 18 years of RVator book. Please e-mail for further questions. Asking
price is 3,000 USD. These are probably too large for me to ship, so I would
prefer to have them picked up. I am selling due to purchasing a Car
restoration project and the Wife says "It's gotta go!" Contact David Funk
located Modesto CA USA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | AFP fuel pump location |
I see that Van's has a kit for the AFP fuel pump to locate it forward of
the fuel selector valve on the floor of the RV6, 7, 9. Is this a good
place to locate the pump & why are some going to the wing root or
firewall/engine side? Is this a noisey pump or is it just not a good
idea to have the pump in the cockpit? Can the pump be located on the
floor with the filter(s) located in the wing root before the selector
valve?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | tachometer and hoses and cable length |
Listers -
Where did you guys mount the tachometer sender with the 12 inch extension?
The extension makes the unit a little long to mount directly on the
firewall. I'm uncertain about how much I should bend the shaft.
Does anyone know of a good source for custom hoses in or near San Francisco?
Does anyone have experience with control cables for an IO 360 with the
forward mounted fuel injector intake? I took the recommendation from the
catalog, but they look a little short just from eyeballing it.
Thanks.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
> That does NOT apply to com radio antenna leads. If you value your radio,
> ground both ends AND check VSWR before using the radio.
>
Dave is absolutely correct on this one. The B&C connectors are made to
capture the shielding for grounding at both ends. All other shielded wires
were grounded at the source unless B&C connectors were used or the wiring
drawings indicated it had to be done. I can't remember anywhere else that
the shielded wire had to be grounded at both ends, though. I stand
corrected. Hey, it's been a while since I did my antenna leads. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
Dag-
A couple of comments from my own experience:
1) I found the Tempo canned product to be of such low quality and such a poor
delivery system that I gave up on it and switched to Sherwin Williams #988
self-etching primer long ago. Works like a charm, dries fast and hard. Never
had even the slightest complaint, except that it isn't a "cool"
aviation-primer color.
2) In any area where you're going to paint over the primer, use a matched
paint-primer system, that is designed to work together. Don't mix one
company's primer with another company's top coat. You'll never get as good a
result that way.
The above comments come from a guy who has resigned himself to being a
non-painter type. A spray gun in my hands is an extremely destructive weapon.
If your skill with a spray gun is acceptable, then go with everyone's
favorite, Vari-Prime.
Ed Winne
RV-9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
Hello Listers,
I have a question for those of you that are flying electronic
ignitions in your RVs. I am due for an annual next month and my mechanic
tells me that I have a high time mag that has to be replaced, The right one
,I think he said...... rather than put in another 70 year old design, I
thought that I'd replace it with new technology and go with either an
"Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My question
is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them , consider to
be the best? I,d like to hear the pro's and con's on either of them and if
any of you have had any problems with them. Also, any noticable performance
enhancement from your engines?....... Less fuel burn? smoother idle or
cruise?
Thanks in advance..... George RV-4 Chester, Conn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming? |
Robert,
The main areas you will have to paint are the support behind the seats, the
seats themselves, the aft bulkhead cover, and the very top side rails. The
best way to see how it all comes together is get becky's video at their
website: www.fly-gbi.com I just watched that and painted the exposed parts
with spray paint (white) from Home Depot, with a spray on clear coat. Came
out nice.
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming? |
Also paint the electric flap cover if you have that option.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the cockpit - abandon spray cans for priming?
>
> Robert,
>
> The main areas you will have to paint are the support behind the seats,
the
> seats themselves, the aft bulkhead cover, and the very top side rails.
The
> best way to see how it all comes together is get becky's video at their
> website: www.fly-gbi.com I just watched that and painted the exposed
parts
> with spray paint (white) from Home Depot, with a spray on clear coat.
Came
> out nice.
>
> Kurt in OKC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | AFP fuel pump location |
Dave,
Good questions.
The AFP fuel pump is not too loud so that should not influence your
decision. I went to the wing root because I do not have a standard fuel
selector set up and it would not fit (the kit is a new availability, some of
us are on the SLOW builds, so MANY of these types of issues had to be
addressed (invented) but us as we went along. Putting the pump on the floor
and the filter in the wing root would work fine. Remember two things about
the fuel filter: 1) you have to get at it, so you will have to
remove/replace your wing root fairing to do this (frequently at the
beginning!), and 2) it WILL spill gas in your interior if it is mounted
inside. Thus, regarless of where you put your AFP pump, the filter is best
on the firewall (IMHO).
Jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dave
Subject: RV-List: AFP fuel pump location
I see that Van's has a kit for the AFP fuel pump to locate it forward of
the fuel selector valve on the floor of the RV6, 7, 9. Is this a good
place to locate the pump & why are some going to the wing root or
firewall/engine side? Is this a noisey pump or is it just not a good
idea to have the pump in the cockpit? Can the pump be located on the
floor with the filter(s) located in the wing root before the selector
valve?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
I have the Jeff Rose unit in my -4. It has worked flawlessly for the last 200
hours. Wouldn't be without it. Carroll Bird
SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
> I have a question for those of you that are flying electronic
> ignitions in your RVs. I am due for an annual next month and my mechanic
> tells me that I have a high time mag that has to be replaced, The right one
> ,I think he said...... rather than put in another 70 year old design, I
> thought that I'd replace it with new technology and go with either an
> "Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My question
> is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them , consider to
> be the best? I,d like to hear the pro's and con's on either of them and if
> any of you have had any problems with them. Also, any noticable performance
> enhancement from your engines?....... Less fuel burn? smoother idle or
> cruise?
> Thanks in advance..... George RV-4 Chester, Conn.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
In a message dated 1/19/02 7:51:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SSPRING83(at)aol.com writes:
<< Hello Listers,
I have a question for those of you that are flying electronic
ignitions in your RVs. I am due for an annual next month and my mechanic
tells me that I have a high time mag that has to be replaced, The right one
,I think he said...... rather than put in another 70 year old design, I
thought that I'd replace it with new technology and go with either an
"Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My question
is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them , consider to
be the best? >>
I can't offer an opinion as to which is best, and I can't give you back to
back test results showing the improvement gained by using the Electroair
ignition versus one of the mags. What I can tell you is that there is NO mag
drop on run-up when I shut off the Mag, and there is a 50 RPM drop when I
shut off the Electroair. The engine isn't happy idling under 800 RPM on the
mag only, and will idle along just fine at 500 RPM on the electronic
ignition. This is with a wood prop and no balancer or anything to add mass
to the prop. Also, the airplane cranks much better on the electronic
ignition - this is especially benificial in cold weather.
I did have a sensor fail at 40 hours, and couldn't get a replacement part for
a week, since Jeff Rose was at SNF. This hilights one of the risks of using
one of these unusual ignitions - your local airplane parts store isn't going
to have replacement parts, and you're somewhat dependant on the manufacturer
for troubleshooting help and replacement parts. If this failure had happened
anywhere but my home airport, the airplane (and possibly me) would have been
stranded...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
"Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My question
is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them , consider to
be the best? I,d like to hear the pro's and con's on either of them and if
any of you have had any problems with them. Also, any noticable performance
enhancement from your engines?....... Less fuel burn? smoother idle or
cruise?
Thanks in advance..... George RV-4 Chester, Conn.
------------------------
Hi George,
I have a Lightspeed on my RV-8, and think it's absolutely the best money
that can be spent on these stone-age engines. As for performance, when they
say you'll get a power improvement, they aren't kidding. Another local RV-8
has a C/S prop, and can generally out climb my fixed pitch. We do a decent
amount of formation flying, and he always lets me fly lead when we takeoff,
since he has the extra climb performance to join up quickly. We made such a
flight on the day I was testing my Lightspeed, and he couldn't catch up in
climb! He bought his own Lightspeed two days later :-)
I did a bit of research before I chose the Lightspeed. If you look through
the archives, you'll note that there are similar stories of performance with
either unit, so I don't think one is actually "better" as far as that goes.
On the reliability side though, it seems there are far more reports of
problems with Jeff's system. Jeff seems to have an excellent reputation for
handling the problems, but I decided to pick the system that seemed more
trouble free.
Good luck,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Electronic ignition |
I have the Electroair in my RV-6 and the unit itself has been trouble free
for the 150 hours I have used it. I did have trouble with the automobile
ignition wires and aircraft spark plugs that were on the plane when I bought
it. Seems the wires had been shortened and the little brads that were used
to contact the inside of the plug were not making consistent contact with the
carbon conductor in the wire. Also, the plugs had their gap opened to the
large value used by the electronic ignition (I don't remember - something
like .050 versus the .018 for the mag) and the insulator had been cracked in
one or two of the plugs. I bought new wires ($20) and new Autolite plugs
from Autozone ($8) and that fixed it.
I cannot tell you any performance numbers other than the very low drop when I
turn off the mag (maybe 10 rpm), but between the ignition and the AFP fuel
injection it is one smooth burning engine.
Jim
N1KJ 450 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall insulation dimensions |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
The Orndorffs (GBI) have templates for the firewall insulation which
they sell fairly cheap. You can take these roughly triangular shapes
and lay them on the insulation as patterns.
They also sell insulation material which I used which I thought was pretty
good.
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
Just thought I let ya'll know of some product i recently ran into at the
local ham shop.
its made by MFJ called a "259b swr analyzer" they are on ebay for
about $200.- A bit expensive maybe (all relative to your radio
equipment I guess) but could be a chapter owned item !!
you connect these to you antenna circuit, in place of your radio.
You tune the frequencies in the 259B to what your radio uses and it will
tell you all kinds of info including swr *BEFORE* you hook up your
$$$$$$ radio. Some extra insurance here.
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> > That does NOT apply to com radio antenna leads. If you value your radio,
> > ground both ends AND check VSWR before using the radio.
> >
>
> Dave is absolutely correct on this one. The B&C connectors are made to
> capture the shielding for grounding at both ends. All other shielded wires
> were grounded at the source unless B&C connectors were used or the wiring
> drawings indicated it had to be done. I can't remember anywhere else that
> the shielded wire had to be grounded at both ends, though. I stand
> corrected. Hey, it's been a while since I did my antenna leads. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
> Hi George,
Another local RV-8
> has a C/S prop, and can generally out climb my fixed pitch. We do a
decent
> amount of formation flying, and he always lets me fly lead when we
takeoff,
> since he has the extra climb performance to join up quickly. We made such
a
> flight on the day I was testing my Lightspeed, and he couldn't catch up in
> climb! He bought his own Lightspeed two days later :-)
> Good luck,
> Rusty
Hello Rusty,
A simple case of curiosity; After your friend installed his electronic
ignition did his performance pick back up to the original comparative
performance standard?
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical help |
In a message dated 1/19/2002 1:36:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
> Dave is absolutely correct on this one. The B&C connectors are made to
> capture the shielding for grounding at both ends. All other shielded wires
> were grounded at the source unless B&C connectors were used or the wiring
> drawings indicated it had to be done.
Jim-
Just to keep our terminology fully erect and reduce the confuddlement factor
a bit for the neophytes, there is no such thing as a B&C connector.
For our purposes, B&C is a company run by Bill Bainbridge that sells
alternators, regulators and such. The RF connectors you are referring to are
BNC series (bayonet).
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation dimensions |
In a message dated 1/19/2002 9:27:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,
fliier(at)onebox.com writes:
> The Orndorffs (GBI) have templates for the firewall insulation which
> they sell fairly cheap. You can take these roughly triangular shapes
> and lay them on the insulation as patterns.
If you have a 6/6A I can send you an Autocad file that will give you the same
info free.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fixing fuel tanks ? |
OK, I can accept this possibility, so how do you fix one when this happens?
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
>
> I keep seeing the phrase "mine didn't leak" and have to chuckle. As
> with the phrase "...and those who haven't yet landed wheels up..." don't
> be surprised if those tanks spring a leak some day. Mine did after four
> years. Doug Stenger who has built over 25 sets of wings (that's 50
> tanks!) will still have one leak for unknown reasons. So just get the
> proper attitude that someday you most likely will have to repair your
> tank regardless of how well you built it originally. My leak must be at
> the high point, so only when the tank is left full is it a problem, so,
> it's on the "to do" list. I repaired the other from the outside,
> figuring it was worth the try. Of course maybe these leaks are G
> related, in which case they 've had a hard life!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
A simple case of curiosity; After your friend installed his electronic
ignition did his performance pick back up to the original comparative
performance standard?
Jim in Kelowna
--------------------
Yep, I'm afraid so. He can out climb me with the C/S prop, but I can outrun
him by 3-4 kts.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Centurian222(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 01/14/02 |
Bill: Thanks for the post. I'd be interested, so please keep me in the
loop. I'm a ways off but I'm aggregating pieces of info here and there for
the right time. Thx. Sid
Svanlaningham(at)cfl.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
>
> Hello Listers,
> I have a question for those of you that are flying electronic
>ignitions in your RVs. I am due for an annual next month and my mechanic
>tells me that I have a high time mag that has to be replaced, The right one
>,I think he said...... rather than put in another 70 year old design, I
>thought that I'd replace it with new technology and go with either an
>"Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My
>question
>is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them , consider to
>be the best? I,d like to hear the pro's and con's on either of them and
>if
>any of you have had any problems with them. Also, any noticable performance
>enhancement from your engines?....... Less fuel burn? smoother idle or
>cruise?
> Thanks in advance..... George RV-4 Chester, Conn.
I personally am totally pleased with my Lightspeed ignition. Super fast
starts, smooth idling, and $3 plugs that NEVER foul! The Rose ignition is
based on the same automotive technology and works just as well. It's
packaged differently but seems to offer the same performance and economy
improvements over the jurassic age magneto. I say the most effective and
easy way to upgrade any Lycosaur is to add an electronic ignition. You
don't have to hack into the engine at all and it's a practically
maintenance-free system. I've had mine on the engine for a year now and
have done nothing to it. I pulled the plugs during the annual last October
and they were clean with no lead fouling that I could see. My next project
will also have a Lightspeed system on it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Whelen strobes |
Awhile back there was a discussion about potential problems with strobes
which have not been used for a period of time. I have just today wired my
wingtip Whelens. After being dormant for apprx. 5 years they are working
fine. I bought them when I was doing the wing construction. I mounted the
strobe heads and position lights while working on the tips during wing
construction. The power packs sat around for 5 years until wiring which I am
knee deep into now. I am posting this as it may put some minds to rest. Snowy
day in the East so now I'm gonna wire the taxi/landing lights.
Bill Griffin RV628(at)aol.com
Balto. MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
On this general comparison of Jeff Rose and Lightspeed electronic ignition
systems:
1. Do both systems behave the same during hand propping?
2. What is comparative current draw from the battery, both before start and
at cruise?
3. Are both true capacitive discharge systems or the standard type found in
most automobiles which is saturated coil discharge? (The term "CD" is often
used for any electronic system and this is annoying.)
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Electronic Ignitions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesTSherry(at)cs.com |
Hi, I would be interested in an insulation kit for my RV-8 QB. It is a great
idea and thanks for the effort of trying first!! I just started the wings.
Question: Does the WD-421 need any lubricant on the brass bushing. I reamed
it out and it rotates very freely. I was just wondering what the effect of
metal on metal would have after prolonged use. Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder,
CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tanks - a new way? |
Kevin,
It's kind of depressing to think the tanks might leak somewhere down the
road, but I guess anything with that many seams is prone to it. It is
encouraging to know that experienced builders don't always have perfect
results. I would be highly interested in learning about your repair methods
in the event my tanks leak.
Jim Bower
RV-6A Wings (almost done now)
St. Louis, MO
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignitions and Rocky Mountain Monitor |
All,
How are electronic users (Rose or Lightspeed) handling RPM read out mag checks
with your Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor?
Second is anyone using one of the electonic units with SlickStart?
Thanks,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
I have been flying Jeff Rose's electronic ignition for several years
now. I bought that brand because it was cheaper and very easy to
install, several hours total. On a trip to AK last August I was burning
less fuel than Brian(two mags) despite having 160hp vs 150(both -6A's),
something on the order of 10%. My engine starts easier and I have gone
back to automotive plugs, which cost $1.69 each. I still use the
regular mag on the right. Jeff said the savings wouldn't be that
dramatic with two systems and I feel it provides some backup in the
event of an electrical failure. You have to shut the ignition off to
kill the engine because it will sit there and idle at 400 rpm or less
with the electronic ignition firing.
Jeff Rose seems to have been visibly absent from the latest airshows
(Oshkosh and Lakeland) so you might check up on what is happening with
his company. It seems to me pretty dumb to buy new mags when these
systems are so much superior. Kevin Lane -6A (700+hrs)
----- Original Message -----
From: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 4:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electronic Ignitions
Hello Listers,
I have a question for those of you that are flying
electronic
ignitions in your RVs. I am due for an annual next month and my
mechanic
tells me that I have a high time mag that has to be replaced, The
right one
,I think he said...... rather than put in another 70 year old
design, I
thought that I'd replace it with new technology and go with either an
"Electroair" that Jeff Rose puts out , or the "Lightspeed. " My
question
is, which one of these units do you guys that are using them ,
consider to
be the best? I,d like to hear the pro's and con's on either of them
and if
any of you have had any problems with them. Also, any noticable
performance
enhancement from your engines?....... Less fuel burn? smoother
idle or
cruise?
Thanks in advance..... George RV-4 Chester, Conn.
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing fuel tanks ? |
this is like a shrink bringing back repressed memories! Both my leaks
involved the rear baffle. One I fixed externally, one of those "hey,
it's worth a try". The other I cut a hand-sized hole in the baffle.
Inspection with a mirror revealed an absolutely perfect looking seal. I
applied more proseal and pop-riveted a patch over the hole. It has held.
I etched and cleaned and wore latex gloves and gooped all the rivets
and everything I could think of to do it right originally. There must
be 500 holes in each of the tanks if you think about it. I think next
time I would also apply a bit of heat to the proseal to help it flow.
My basement was probably only 60 degrees at the time and the stuff was
definitely thick. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Haywire
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fixing fuel tanks ?
OK, I can accept this possibility, so how do you fix one when
this happens?
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
>
> I keep seeing the phrase "mine didn't leak" and have to chuckle. As
> with the phrase "...and those who haven't yet landed wheels up..."
don't
> be surprised if those tanks spring a leak some day. Mine did after
four
> years. Doug Stenger who has built over 25 sets of wings (that's 50
> tanks!) will still have one leak for unknown reasons. So just get
the
> proper attitude that someday you most likely will have to repair
your
> tank regardless of how well you built it originally. My leak must
be at
> the high point, so only when the tank is left full is it a problem,
so,
> it's on the "to do" list. I repaired the other from the outside,
> figuring it was worth the try. Of course maybe these leaks are G
> related, in which case they 've had a hard life!
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
> Also, the airplane cranks much better on the electronic
> ignition - this is especially benificial in cold weather.
Jeese, mine cranked the same after I installed a Jeff Rose EI. Did yours come
with some sort of starter booster pack or somthin? Ok, nobody likes a smart*ss,
yes they do start better with the EI, specially if your mags are old and worn.
Gary Zilik RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen strobes |
Bill Griffin speaks truly. His experience matches what I learned from
Whelen in a phone call last week about that subject: They said the
capacitors they use now are different and are not subject to the "loss of
polarization" that their manual still mentions. Disregard the manual's
warning about "sitting around a long time not being used."
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Whelen strobes
>
> Awhile back there was a discussion about potential problems with strobes
> which have not been used for a period of time. I have just today wired my
> wingtip Whelens. After being dormant for apprx. 5 years they are working
> fine. I bought them when I was doing the wing construction. I mounted the
> strobe heads and position lights while working on the tips during wing
> construction. The power packs sat around for 5 years until wiring which I
am
> knee deep into now. I am posting this as it may put some minds to rest.
Snowy
> day in the East so now I'm gonna wire the taxi/landing lights.
> Bill Griffin RV628(at)aol.com
> Balto. MD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
I am wondering if Vans makes gear leg intersection fairings? If not, who does
that will work with Vans gear leg fairings? I know Team Rocket makes
intersection fairings but you need to use their leg gear fairings. Does Sam
James Intersection fairings work with Vans leg gear fairings?
Thanks
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fixing fuel tanks ? |
Somebody out there has got to know of a better way!
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kevin lane
> Sent: January 19, 2002 5:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing fuel tanks ?
>
>
>
> this is like a shrink bringing back repressed memories! Both my leaks
> involved the rear baffle. One I fixed externally, one of those "hey,
> it's worth a try". The other I cut a hand-sized hole in the baffle.
> Inspection with a mirror revealed an absolutely perfect looking seal. I
> applied more proseal and pop-riveted a patch over the hole. It has held.
> I etched and cleaned and wore latex gloves and gooped all the rivets
> and everything I could think of to do it right originally. There must
> be 500 holes in each of the tanks if you think about it. I think next
> time I would also apply a bit of heat to the proseal to help it flow.
> My basement was probably only 60 degrees at the time and the stuff was
> definitely thick. Kevin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Haywire
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 10:21 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fixing fuel tanks ?
>
>
>
> OK, I can accept this possibility, so how do you fix one when
> this happens?
> S. Todd Bartrim
> 13B RV-9
> C-FSTB (reserved)
>
>
> >
> > I keep seeing the phrase "mine didn't leak" and have to chuckle. As
> > with the phrase "...and those who haven't yet landed wheels up..."
> don't
> > be surprised if those tanks spring a leak some day. Mine did after
> four
> > years. Doug Stenger who has built over 25 sets of wings (that's 50
> > tanks!) will still have one leak for unknown reasons. So just get
> the
> > proper attitude that someday you most likely will have to repair
> your
> > tank regardless of how well you built it originally. My leak must
> be at
> > the high point, so only when the tank is left full is it a problem,
> so,
> > it's on the "to do" list. I repaired the other from the outside,
> > figuring it was worth the try. Of course maybe these leaks are G
> > related, in which case they 've had a hard life!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:33
>I personally am totally pleased with my Lightspeed ignition. Super fast
>starts, smooth idling, and $3 plugs that NEVER foul!
Brian, what make/model automotive plugs are you using with the Lightspeed??
What gapping??
Also, how long did the original plugs last?
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 27 hrs with since new
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:33
>
> >I personally am totally pleased with my Lightspeed ignition. Super fast
> >starts, smooth idling, and $3 plugs that NEVER foul!
>
>Brian, what make/model automotive plugs are you using with the Lightspeed??
>What gapping??
>Also, how long did the original plugs last?
>Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 27 hrs with since new
Lothar,
The plugs that are in use are the ones that came with the system. They are
Denso brand. Don't have the part number handy. Gapped to .035". They show
no signs of excessive wear thus far. I'll probably replace them this
summer...just for the thrill of putting four new plugs into my airplane
engine for twelve bucks!
Brian Denk
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings |
On my 6A the main gear fairings stay aligned in the slip steam just fine
with out the intersection fairings. After 110 hours I still don't have them
fabricated -- I'd rather fly!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <WPAerial(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Intersection Fairings
>
> Don't you mold the intersection fairing in place in order to keep the gear
> fairing in place for you're air plane?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Listers:
I am interested in a couple of parachutes for my soon to be complete
RV4(anytime in the next who knows how long time). Since I also have a
citabria that needs chutes for future airbatic training and practice, I
have looked for seat pack types. A pair of nice chutes have been
offered to me and I need to know their relative value. They are:
G.Q.Security Parachutes Inc, Model 500 slow speed, Seat packs. They
were manufactured in 1990. They are in nice shape and I will have them
inspected and re-packed prior to sale, so those who might reply can
assume they are in good shape. Anyone know what they might be worth?
Thanks for your input. By the way, I hope NOT TO start a thread on the
merits of back-pack over seat-pack or the decision to wear or not wear a
seatbelt. Just input about what these chutes might be worth.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pipe fitting torque/procedures |
The archives and AC43.13-1B have torque specifications for tightening
the nut down on a flared tube fitting. However, I haven't been able to
find any specification for the other end of the fitting - the pipe
thread end.
I was advised by Don at AFP to put Bakerseal on the pipe threads, but I
haven't been able to find any description of just how hard I can torque
a right-angle pipe fitting to end up with it pointing in the right
direction. Obviously, it has to be torqued tight enough not to leak,
but not so much that it ruins the threads. Can any one direct me to
some info on this?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent. - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
12 bucks for plugs! That's outrageous. The Autolite plugs I use are $0.89 at the
local NAPA (National Aircraft Parts Association) I have been thinking about
buying the adapters to run the 3 dollar plugs but the old Autolites (no adapter
needed) seem to work well.
Gary Zilik
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:33
> >
> > >I personally am totally pleased with my Lightspeed ignition. Super fast
> > >starts, smooth idling, and $3 plugs that NEVER foul!
> >
> >Brian, what make/model automotive plugs are you using with the Lightspeed??
> >What gapping??
> >Also, how long did the original plugs last?
> >Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 27 hrs with since new
>
> Lothar,
>
> The plugs that are in use are the ones that came with the system. They are
> Denso brand. Don't have the part number handy. Gapped to .035". They show
> no signs of excessive wear thus far. I'll probably replace them this
> summer...just for the thrill of putting four new plugs into my airplane
> engine for twelve bucks!
>
> Brian Denk
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe fitting torque/procedures |
To my knowledge there are no torque specs on pipe threads. As you are
seating the taper thread you will reach a point where the torque increases
dramatically. Now you are within 90 to 180 degrees of maximum rotation.
One steadfast rule: Don't go too far, because when you loosen the seated
threads, you will likely develop a leak.
It is almost impossible to damage the male threaded piece. Threading a
steel male pipe thread into a fitting creates a wedge effect and serious
damage is usually in the female section. If the male threaded fitting is
turned in too far, it can simply be replaced.
I always use Fuelube sparingly on threaded joints, especially anodized
fittings. It is not a sealant, but rather an effective, harmless lubricant.
You will doubtless hear from many listers that no lubricant should be used
on B-nuts and the like, but once you've tried Fuelube you'll see for
yourself that markedly aids assembly of threaded fittings.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pipe fitting torque/procedures
>
> The archives and AC43.13-1B have torque specifications for tightening
> the nut down on a flared tube fitting. However, I haven't been able to
> find any specification for the other end of the fitting - the pipe
> thread end.
>
> I was advised by Don at AFP to put Bakerseal on the pipe threads, but I
> haven't been able to find any description of just how hard I can torque
> a right-angle pipe fitting to end up with it pointing in the right
> direction. Obviously, it has to be torqued tight enough not to leak,
> but not so much that it ruins the threads. Can any one direct me to
> some info on this?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent. - RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignitions |
Why is it the shielded plugs are not needed in these systems to avoid radio
static? Are the leads shielded? In the Aeronca several owners have gone to
Slick in part for the shielding so they could get better use of the radio.
Where's the radiated energy going?
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary & Carolyn
Zilik
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Electronic Ignitions
12 bucks for plugs! That's outrageous. The Autolite plugs I use are $0.89 at
the
local NAPA (National Aircraft Parts Association) I have been thinking about
buying the adapters to run the 3 dollar plugs but the old Autolites (no
adapter
needed) seem to work well.
Gary Zilik
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:33
> >
> > >I personally am totally pleased with my Lightspeed ignition. Super
fast
> > >starts, smooth idling, and $3 plugs that NEVER foul!
> >
> >Brian, what make/model automotive plugs are you using with the
Lightspeed??
> >What gapping??
> >Also, how long did the original plugs last?
> >Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 27 hrs with since new
>
> Lothar,
>
> The plugs that are in use are the ones that came with the system. They
are
> Denso brand. Don't have the part number handy. Gapped to .035". They
show
> no signs of excessive wear thus far. I'll probably replace them this
> summer...just for the thrill of putting four new plugs into my airplane
> engine for twelve bucks!
>
> Brian Denk
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fixing fuel tanks ? |
Why would you say 'd0 n0t archive' on something like this?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Bright
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:34 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing fuel tanks ?
>
>
>
> From Brian Denk: Been there myself..only one rivet, I drilled
> out the offending, weepy lil bugger, opened up the hole to
> #30 by drilling very slowly to avoid sending debris into the
> tank. Then, I cleaned the surrounding skin very well, scuffed
> it with scotchbrite pad and installed a sealed end pop rivet
> with a healthy dab of proseal. No more leak. This is my
> chosen path to leak-free tank enlightenment.
>
> From Scott McDaniels: This is exactly the way I have done it
> a number of times with just a couple of small variations.
>
> I also drill out the rivet and then enlarge the hole to #30.
> I modify one of the closed end blind rivets by reforming the
> head using a hole that is machine counter sunk in a small
> block of aluminum. Set the rivet in the hole and slide
> another block which has a small hole just big enough for the
> mandrel/stem of the rivet to slide through. Hit the block
> with a hammer, or squeeze it in a vise, etc. to mash/reform
> the rivet so that it has a countersunk head. Now machine
> countersink the hole for a nice fit on your custom made
> rivet. Clean the hole and the rivet well. Put on some tank
> sealant, and install the rivet in the hole.
>
> Now I know that an .032 skin is not thick enough to machine
> countersink for 1/8" rivets but the holes were dimpled for
> 3/32 to start with which helps prevent over cutting the skin.
> Even if it does slightly... you are
> (hopefully) only doing it to a single rivet in a localized
> area which won't affect the strength of the tank at all.
>
> BTW since the tank is now closed up you need to be careful of
> leaving metal drillings in the tank. You should try to flush
> out the tank well after doing this kind of repair. One trick
> you can use is to put some mixed tank sealant on any drill
> bits or countersink cutters that you use and all the
> drillings/cuttings will tend to stick to the sticky stuff.
> Then clean off everything after you are done. Heavy grease
> could be used also but may contaminate the hole. It is not
> likely that you will contaminate the hole if you use
> something that you are going to put there anyway.
>
> *o *ot *rchive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Hi,
I started my engine up for the first time. I seem to have an oil leak
somewhere on the back of the engine. It is hard to pinpoint where the leak
is, but it seems to be in the vicinity of the spin on oil filter mount, or
the oil filter seal itself. Any suggestions for finding it? The engine is
a factory new O360-A1A.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (almost!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
On 20 Jan 2002, at 18:02, Glenn & Judi wrote:
> I started my engine up for the first time. I seem to have an oil leak
> somewhere on the back of the engine. It is hard to pinpoint where the
> leak is, but it seems to be in the vicinity of the spin on oil filter
> mount, or the oil filter seal itself. Any suggestions for finding it?
I had great results using a tip from an IA buddy of mine: Clean the
area thoroughly. Let dry. Spray Magnaflux developer (it's a white
powder when it dries) on the whole area you want to check. Run the
engine. When the oil seeps out, it shows as a dark stain on the
developer.
Using this method, I found the source of a leak on the back of my
engine, and also the source of a very small grease leak on my constant
speed prop hub (at the case half joint). The prop leak was particularly
hard to find, and was producing streaks all over the windshield. Not
pretty.
The developer is available from AC$, but Aircraft Specialties Services
gave me a better price last time I ordered it from them.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Aileron Brass Bushing |
I take it I should just put this in a vice snug it down just enough to
hold it and run a 1/4 bit through it, best to do on the drill press?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure |
Guys,
I was flying today with my friend who has an RV8 with an
IO-360 (200hp). After takeoff he started noticing a vibration that
increased as time went on. He said he felt it in his throttle quadrant.
It got so bad that he almost put it down on an interstate road but
luckily made it to an airport.
After he took the cowl off, he noticed all but 2 bolts/nuts
were holding the #2 cylinder head on to the crankcase. He took off the
valve cover and everything appeared normal, i.e., rotated the prop and
the valves opened and closed normally. He did a leak down check and the
cylinder was 71/80.
He asked me to put this on the list to see if anyone had any ideas
of why this might of happened. Obviously, he'll know more when he pulls
the jug. Any ideas out there? Why would this happen to only one
cylinder?
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
You can use a mixture made out of chalk or talcum powder and water to
achive the same results as the 'developer'.
just mix, say talcum powder and water till it thickens, then brush it
thinly where you suspect the leak(s) to occur.
Used this method many time to find leaks in oiltanks.
Gert
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> On 20 Jan 2002, at 18:02, Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> > I started my engine up for the first time. I seem to have an oil leak
> > somewhere on the back of the engine. It is hard to pinpoint where the
> > leak is, but it seems to be in the vicinity of the spin on oil filter
> > mount, or the oil filter seal itself. Any suggestions for finding it?
>
> I had great results using a tip from an IA buddy of mine: Clean the
> area thoroughly. Let dry. Spray Magnaflux developer (it's a white
> powder when it dries) on the whole area you want to check. Run the
> engine. When the oil seeps out, it shows as a dark stain on the
> developer.
>
> Using this method, I found the source of a leak on the back of my
> engine, and also the source of a very small grease leak on my constant
> speed prop hub (at the case half joint). The prop leak was particularly
> hard to find, and was producing streaks all over the windshield. Not
> pretty.
>
> The developer is available from AC$, but Aircraft Specialties Services
> gave me a better price last time I ordered it from them.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Most welding supply stores will have the dye-chek cans for sale.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
;
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Leak
On 20 Jan 2002, at 18:02, Glenn & Judi wrote:
> I started my engine up for the first time. I seem to have an oil leak
> somewhere on the back of the engine. It is hard to pinpoint where the
> leak is, but it seems to be in the vicinity of the spin on oil filter
> mount, or the oil filter seal itself. Any suggestions for finding it?
I had great results using a tip from an IA buddy of mine: Clean the
area thoroughly. Let dry. Spray Magnaflux developer (it's a white
powder when it dries) on the whole area you want to check. Run the
engine. When the oil seeps out, it shows as a dark stain on the
developer.
Using this method, I found the source of a leak on the back of my
engine, and also the source of a very small grease leak on my constant
speed prop hub (at the case half joint). The prop leak was particularly
hard to find, and was producing streaks all over the windshield. Not
pretty.
The developer is available from AC$, but Aircraft Specialties Services
gave me a better price last time I ordered it from them.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure |
Photos of the engine cylinder stud failure can be seen at the link
below.
Joe
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mid-atlrvwing/lst?&.dir/Ralphs+Engine+Problem&.srcgr&.viewt&.last1
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Czachorowski
Subject: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure
Guys,
I was flying today with my friend who has an RV8 with an
IO-360 (200hp). After takeoff he started noticing a vibration that
increased as time went on. He said he felt it in his throttle quadrant.
It got so bad that he almost put it down on an interstate road but
luckily made it to an airport.
After he took the cowl off, he noticed all but 2 bolts/nuts
were holding the #2 cylinder head on to the crankcase. He took off the
valve cover and everything appeared normal, i.e., rotated the prop and
the valves opened and closed normally. He did a leak down check and the
cylinder was 71/80.
He asked me to put this on the list to see if anyone had any ideas
of why this might of happened. Obviously, he'll know more when he pulls
the jug. Any ideas out there? Why would this happen to only one
cylinder?
Joe
January 14, 2002 - January 20, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-me