RV-Archive.digest.vol-mg
January 25, 2002 - February 01, 2002
> >
> > Laird
> > RV-6
> > SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Tri gear empty weights |
> If I may ask for some more info, could someone with a 6A equipped with a
> 0360 and constant speed Hartzell
> and a gyro panel give me the empty weights on the wheels you used to
> calculate the c of g.
Eustace, my wheel weights on my 6A were 417 lbs right main, 417 lbs left
main and 340 nose gear. My plane is painted outside, primed inside,
everything in the panel O360 C/S, insulated, inverted fuel and oil, etc..
Be sure to measure the gear positions - Van's plans showed the nose gear
position from datum quite different from actual.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 84 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> How far apart do I need to space two com antennas on the fuse bottom to
> prevent interference? Also, how far away from the com antennas should the
> transponder antenna be located? (I have nav anatennas in the wing tips)
Kim:
I'm no expert; I'm not an RF engineer but I've been working with RF
engineers for a long time and, I still remember my freshman physics.
The perfect antenna is 1/4 wave long and sticks straight out from an
infinite flat ground plane that has nothing else projecting from it
anywhere.
If there's 2 antennas, then (theoretically) they should be separated by
a distance that's large compared to the wavelength being used. The
wavelength is 2 meters in this case. In practice, a minimum half
wavelength separation is a rule of thumb that engineers use. So, in
general you want the antenna a meter from any large conductive thing,
except of course for its own ground plane - the bottom of the fuselage.
This is hard to do on any small plane. The further you depart from this
rule, the more you distort the transmission pattern - it develops lobes
and loses efficiency.
However, there's some black art in the science of antenna performance.
I see RV's with antennas too close to the gear legs or other antennas
all the time. I'm sure some of these installations work OK even though
they don't follow the rule, but I'm sure some don't work well for that
reason too. Try to position the antennas as far from the gear legs and
each other as you can. Maybe putting one on the top of the fuselage is
an option? I'm placing my single com antenna on the belly of my RV-6A
just forward of the rear baggage bulkhead, that is, it's as far aft as I
can put it and still have a reasonable amount of flat ground plane for
it.
In the real world I think lot of antennas that don't work well suffer
more from a poor connection to their ground plane, or a poorly assembled
BNC connector on their cable. Installation errors probably cause more
radio problems than interference. (Don't try to drive both antennas at
the same time, though, or they'll interfere like crazy.)
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru Engine (long) |
Hmmm, I hate to wade into these things (again) but I guess it's my turn to
defend the cause...
> First of all, have any of you owned a Subaru? If you haven't, I'll
> fill you in on something. THEY DON'T BREAK. Obviously everything made by
> man will eventually break, but the truth is that you are so much less
likely
> to have problems with a properly engineered and installed (2 key issues)
> Subaru conversion that "where am I going to find a mechanic" becomes
moot.
Unless you're prepared to back this up with statistics, its about as
meaningless as me saying:
"I've never had a Lycoming break down on me but I've had dozens of failures
with car engines".
Which is completely true. And utterly meaningless. Subarus break. How often,
neither of us knows.
Lycomings break too. That information is generally available if you really
want to know it.
We actually have meaningful statistics on airplane engines. Its one of the
benefits of being
so heavily regulated.
So given that the Subaru is "made by man", by your own admission it is going
to break
someday for someone. And when your engine breaks, regardless of whether its
an
auto conversion or an aircraft engine, you had better hope you are lucky
enough to be on or
very near an airport. If you aren't then repairing the engine is probably
the least of your
problems. So back to the original point: You are more likely to get parts
and service at an airport for a Lycoming than a Subaru. Any facts to dispute
that?
> We airplane people accept such poor service and performance from our
engines
> that it is PATHETIC. When was the last time you had to preheat your car.
Where I live, I preheat it every night, from November to March. It is
preheating right now.
Everyone up here does it. Sure, with fuel injection and electronic ignition,
my relatively
new car will start at -20. But that is a really bad thing to do to any
engine. Please tell me
why aircraft engines would scuff their innards more easily in a cold start
than an auto engine.
I'm not saying they don't. I'm just curious as to why. Both kinds of engines
have nearly
identical materials rubbing against each other as far as I can tell.
> And don't give me that crap about airplane engine oil being special and
the
> harsher duty cycle experienced by airplane engines. Don't get me on the
> subject of airplane oil either. A good friend who does prototype blending
> for castrol told me that airplane engine oil has only recently boldly
> stepped into the 1980s.
Sounds to me like you're just dying to tell us all about airplane oil.
Please go on: why are
aircraft oils different in the first place? If they are so primitive, why do
engines last
2000 hours today when they used to last only 200? Or for that matter, only
20 hours if you
want to go back to the first flying machines. Of course, back then auto
engines lasted
about 20 hours too, and they've improved over the years as well, thanks to
better
metallurgy and better oils. What is your point?
> The OHC subaru design is used in 400 hp turbocharged rally cars with no
> internal modifications other than lower compression pistons to allow more
> boost. These engines typically last for multiple rally seasons. Often
> these cars are driven on the road by their owners during the week.
> Internally modified versions of this engine make 600 hp and are very
> reliable.
This is fascinating but I'm really not looking for a rally car engine, I'm
looking for an aircraft engine.
I could care less if an OHC Subaru won the last Indy 500. I want some facts
about how
long it performs, trouble free, in an airplane. I can look up the answer for
Lycomings.
Lets see some objective facts about Subarus. Everything you have said is
just anecdotal evidence.
Subarus have been around awhile. If they are so great there must be hundreds
of identical conversions flying. With a sample size that big we could do
some honest
comparisons. What is the demonstrated TBO? Specific fuel consumption? Power
output?
Instrumented aircraft performance compared to an identical Lyc-powered bird?
> One question, when you go out to your car in the morning, do you think:
> "boy, I hope it starts", or " I hope my Battery is adequate, it sure is
cold
> out here" Could you imagine if Honda recommended that you preheat your
> engine whenever it was below 30 deg F.
Funny that you mention it but my first and only Honda, a 1976 Civic, was by
far the
worst cold-weather starting car I ever owned. Even with a block heater it
wouldn't ever start in the cold. I sure hope they've improved them. To be
fair, modern
electronic fuel injection in cars is fantastic for cold starting. But lets
not pretend you
are doing the bearings or pistons any favors just because it fires up.
As for starting at all, my auto battery is twice the size of my airplane
battery, because I don't
care about the extra 30 lbs of weight in a car but I need it to start.
Getting to work is
mandatory. I could carry all that extra weight around in my airplane, but
it's a better idea
to pre-heat so my smaller aircraft battery can handle the starting chore and
I can fly
away 30 lbs lighter.
> The duty cycle argument is pathetically lame also. There are several
> rebuttals. First, many auto engines have been successfully converted to
> marine use where the duty cycle is at least as harsh as in aviation.
What exactly is "the duty cycle arguement"? That aircraft engines spend much
of their
time at full throttle? As do boat engines? I suppose, if all you do is blast
across the water at
75% throttle or better. But I've never heard a marine conversion guy running
flat
out like this claim 2000 hours TBO. More like a few hundred.
> duty cycle does not require expensive products to meet its obligation for
> service. My Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine is an overhead valve,
> magneto fired, air-cooled, carbureted, 4 cycle engine that has been
designed
> to run at or near full throttle for most of its existance. Does anyone
see
> the similarity??
Yes, and it does its job reliably for a long, long time. That's why it's
still around.
Or is the Federal Lawnmower Agency forcing manufacturers to use obsolete
designs even
though automotive technology is far superior?
> Another thought. My car is powered by a `1.8 liter turbocharged,
> intercooled engine that makes 180 hp. It has direct ignition (a separate
> coil over each spark plug) and fuel injection. I don't need to prime it,
> lean it at altitude, pre-heat it or baby it in any way. Its critical
> altitude is somewhere around 15000 ft (according to VW tuners) There
are
> street cars with this engine that make 330 hp with nothing more than a new
> chip, larger turbocharger, larger injectors and upgraded exhaust.
Sounds like a great car. Can we get back to airplanes now?
> I just read an article about one such car that has just rolled over
150,000 miles.
> Audi uses an internally identical engine in its TT that in Europe is
tuned
> to make 265 hp. It has had these modifications since new. I may be
stupid,
> but at an average speed of 50 mph, that's 3000 hrs. Oh yeah, one more
> thing. The entire car that houses this engine can be had for about
$18,000.
> That includes the car, not just the engine.
Well, I'm certainly not anxious to judge anyone but aircraft cruise at 75%
power.
If the Audi requires 75% of 265 hp to cruise at 50 mph, then it is in
serious need
of some aftermarketing streamlining mods :-)
In reality, at 50 mph, the Audi is using only 10-15 hp, so the fact that it
will go 3000 hours
at that speed is irrelevant. A Briggs and Stratton could meet those
requirements.
> The only legitimate argument for the pathetic state of aircraft piston
> engine development is that the aircraft piston engine market is a very
small
> market and can not support millions, maybe even billions of dollars in
R&D
> that have been necessary to get Auto engines to such a level of
> sophistication, performance, reliability, and ease of use.
Well, to a point I could start to agree with you here, if you weren't so
over-the-top about
everything. You might want to consider that for the first 70 or 80 years of
piston engine
development, the aircraft engine blew the auto engine right out of the
frigging water
in the technology department. FAR more money has been spent on aircraft
engine R&D than auto engines. Have a look at an R-3350 some time and tell
me that aircraft piston engines aren't sophisticated. In fact, aircraft
piston engines
evolved so rapidly due to competitive pressures and the millions in R&D
being spent, that
they hit the wall on development and switched to gas turbines 50 years ago.
Aircraft engines
were using aluminum blocks and overhead cams by 1912. Liquid-cooled V-12s
and
supercharging by 1917. Turbochargers came in the 1920s. Fuel injection in
the 1930s.
Contemporary auto engines were cast iron 40 hp L-head boat anchors. (Which
didn't stop
some contemporary homebuilders from using them in airplanes.) The basic
design hasn't
changed in 50 years because it has to meet the same mission requirements
today as it did
50 years ago, and the solution is largely the same: an aircooled OHV flat
four or six. Want
to see a brand new, real, purpose-designed light aircraft engine? Check out
a Jaibaru. Notice
the similarity to a Lycoming.
Engineering is all about compromises. Modern auto engines are designed with
ease of
use as one of the top priorities. Make it so simple your grandmother can run
it. Aircraft engine
designers are primarily interested in reliability. You can tolerate minor
stuff like a mag failure
and a bit of roughness so long as nothing fails catestrophically, like a
thrown rod. And by and large they
don't. Show me the statistics telling me auto engines are more reliable than
aircraft engines
under the same operating conditions. I don't believe anecdotal evidence.
Frankly, most of the stories I read seem to indicate that auto conversions
blow up regularly.
I don't believe those stories to be statistically meaningful either.
> Who could argue with that.
I could.
> I feel real sorry for those guys who own Cessnas
> who are required by law to use these loud, rough, polluting, UNRELIABLE,
> heavy pieces of garbage. BUT WE DON'T HAVE TO.
Please, we don't want your pity. Aircraft engines are loud, rough and
polluting because those
are all deliberate engineering compromises. There aren't a lot of airplanes
flying around so their
contribution to pollution is insignificant compared to autos and electric
power plants.
Every pound matters in aircraft so mufflers are to be avoided if possible.
Helps the power
output too. Airplanes typically fly at high altitudes over relatively
uninhabited areas, so noise isn't such
a big deal, although it is clearly a growing issue for some. And you can add
a muffler if you need to.
The presence or absense of a muffler has nothing to do with the technology
of the engine.
Well, not quite true, especially if you run one of those "high tech" rotary
engines. There's a nice
modern, quiet auto engine for you :-)
The roughness of a Lyc is partially due to the large displacement per
cylinder, which keeps the
parts count low, adding to reliability and reducing weight, plus the fact
that many don't have
counterweights and none of them have a balance shaft, again to keep the
weight down. If they
shake a bit at idle, who cares? Most of the time you're cruising at 2500 rpm
and they run just fine.
As for reliability, Lycoming owners have history on their side. We know what
we are
getting and accept it. There is NO other engine out there with the same
track record. Period.
No one is forcing us homebuilders to fly Lycs - we like 'em! For the vast
majority of
homebuilders, who have the liberty to power their aircraft with just about
anything from rubber
bands to steam engines, piston aircraft engines are by far the most popular
choice.
Why? Because overall they get the job done better than anything else. Just
like an RV.
> please, please, please no more excuses. Just accept the fact that the
> modern aircraft piston engine is garbage
If you're throwing any away, I'd be happy to take 'em.
> and admit that you don't have an
> auto conversion in your plane because you don't have the skills and/ or
> motivation to engineer an installation and/or are Correctly concerned
about
> resale.
Oh, I have the skills to install an auto conversion, no problem there. The
reason I don't have
one, besides the "motivation" and resale value is because I believe auto
conversions
to be less reliable, and because I don't have an extra year to spend
engineering and tweaking the thing
to (perhaps) run as well and reliably as Lycoming, and because I think in
the end it's false economy
because under equal conditions they don't give equivalent performance to a
Lyc. Mostly I don't
have one because I am continuously hearing evangelical sermons and
testimonials from the proponents
of auto engines, which frankly makes me even more skeptical, and seldom do I
hear any
meaningful facts. Because I don't think there aren't any really compelling
facts to invest in an auto
conversion for an RV. And all of the positive testimonials like yours are
balanced out by at least an equal number of horror stories of the things
coming apart in mid-air
or needing never-ending care and attention or just simply never delivering
the
performance that was advertised. Sure, this latest Subaru is different - it
is truely a new
epoch in aircraft engine design. Right. If I hadn't heard that 20 times in
twenty years I might be
more open minded. Try looking at the back pages of a 20 year old Sport
Aviation. Look for the
auto conversion ads. Then find out how many are actually flying of each
type. Then phone
the manufacturers and ask for some documented evidence of their maintenance
history and performance
measurements. Can't find them? Not in business anymore? Hmm.
> If you were building an RV to be your last airplane and had access to an
> Eggenfeler pre-engineered firewall forward package THERE WOULD BE NO
> ARGUMENT to using a Lycosaur.
Oh give it up already. Look, you are here on the RV list. So, can I assume
you like RVs and
that you have accepted the particular compromise of features that they
represent? I mean,
they may go fast and handle well but they don't have reclining seats and air
conditioners like
those great Subaru cars. Perhaps if you do like the RV designs, and respect
the guy who designed them,
maybe you could respect the fact that he endorses the Lycoming as the best
overall VALUE
in engines for RV aircraft. I think I'll take his advice over yours, thanks
just the same.
> Oh yeah regarding service. I counted 17 subaru dealers in the small state
> of CT. That doesn't even include the huge number of independent subaru
> shops out there.
Are any of them located on airports? How many airports offer Lycoming
service in CT?
What's your point anyway? No one ever doubted that there were Subaru dealers
in most
every state. They just aren't necessarily near airports where you would need
them.
> OK I've vented. Thanks.
Me too. Buy you a beer? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru Engine (long) |
I have owned three Subaru automobiles and two of them had engine
problems: blown head gasket and failed oil pump.
YMMV
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Reimer <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Subaru Engine (long)
>
> Hmmm, I hate to wade into these things (again) but I guess it's my
turn to
> defend the cause...
>
> > First of all, have any of you owned a Subaru? If you haven't, I'll
> > fill you in on something. THEY DON'T BREAK. Obviously everything
made by
> > man will eventually break, but the truth is that you are so much
less
> likely
> > to have problems with a properly engineered and installed (2 key
issues)
> > Subaru conversion that "where am I going to find a mechanic" becomes
> moot.
>
> Unless you're prepared to back this up with statistics, its about as
> meaningless as me saying:
> "I've never had a Lycoming break down on me but I've had dozens of
failures
> with car engines".
> Which is completely true. And utterly meaningless. Subarus break. How
often,
> neither of us knows.
> Lycomings break too. That information is generally available if you
really
> want to know it.
> We actually have meaningful statistics on airplane engines. Its one of
the
> benefits of being
> so heavily regulated.
SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Gauthier" <Blunist(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator servo installation |
I don't know if this will help but try my web site.
http://home.flash.net/~blunist/RV-6.html
Once there go to "Trim tab". My site has been neglected for more than a
year, but I have a couple of pictures there.
Ted Gauthier RV-6
Pontiac Michigan
Finishing kit, canopy
----- Original Message -----
From: "TERRY BENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator servo installation
>
> Does anyone have a picture of the elevator trim srvo installed or mounted
in
> a rv-6 or
> rv-8? Would like to see one before I start cutting the Z-supports
>
> Thanks
Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming....auto engines......ad nauseum.... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, did you see the little blurb in the latest issue of Kitplanes that
Lycoming will now offer 2- year warranties on Cylinders? I got a real
kick out of that one. Basically it says that Lycoming has just developed
improved inspection techniques that allow them to find previously
"undetectable hairline cracks" in their factory new jugs. This raises
their confidence level in their product to the point that they are now
willing to (gasp......drum roll....) offer a TWO-YEAR WARRANTY!!! I'm
just elated by this news. Gimme a break. IMHO I think the real reason
Lycoming is "moving up" to a whopping, unprecedented two-year warranty is
because their competition (like Superior and Aerosport Power) is already
doing that. Or, on the other hand, maybe it really IS because their
confidence level in their product was so low, they didn't really expect
their cylinders to last two years before now, so they weren't willing to
guarantee them. But I can't believe they'd admit it in writing!
I'm not going to repeat the whole list of discussion already beaten to
death on Lyc. vs. auto engines for RV's. I personally will have a Lyc.
with Bart overhaul because I think overall for ME it's the best
compromise of initial cost, resale value, insurability, reliability,
performance, and maintainability (I'm familiar with Lyc's and not with
Subie's or Mazda's). But I'm disgusted with Lycoming and despite the
excuse that liability and low production numbers has driven up the cost,
I think there's no good excuse for their refusal to improve their product
as the technology becomes available (in other words, many years ago). If
it weren't for the competition out there, we'd continue to get the same
pathetic, overpriced, unresponsive level of products/service we've come
to expect as the norm in GA (especially from Lycoming....may they R.I.P.
as soon as a better product replaces their business : )
Flaming finished, off my soapbox and out to the garage now....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A (can I say I'm "finishing" now that I have my finish kit?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming Firewall |
> CRES
>
What is CRES?
Thanks.
Robert
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/22/2002 10:16:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> > Do you guys prime the cockpit side of the stainless steel firewall?
> >
> > I will paint the engine side later with a glossy paint that will be easy to
> >
> > clean.
>
> Huh? What's easier to clean than CRES. I won't even be the first to mention
> the folly of painting a flame resistant material with a non-flame resistant
> one.
>
> Ever see the inside of a Mickey D's? CRES everywhere.
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Taylor" <stuinaustin(at)hotmail.com> |
eyedoc(at)centurytel.net, kellie_johnson(at)roundrockisd.org, kelnth(at)yahoo.com,
lilpip10(at)hotmail.com, LSTEWART(at)austin.rr.com, michael(at)winternals.com,
pambrame(at)swbell.net, raet(at)arkansas.net, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
SLHebert(at)aol.com, stuart.taylor(at)gesupply.com, stuinaustin(at)hotmail.com,
taylord(at)pbworld.com, tskim(at)mmm.com
| Subject: | Email Address Change |
Hi All,
I migrating my non-work email to a new email address: stuinaustin(at)ev1.net
When a quick response is required continue to use:
stuart.taylor(at)gesupply.com
With best regards,
stuart.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Schnebeck" <schnebeck(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru Engine (long) |
Subarus do break - I owned an early model wagon that broke all the time. If
fact sometimes the parts that replaced the original broke again.
I believe they have really improved there product but I would never own
another Subaru. On or off road.
I also think it is great pepole are looking for alternatives. There is a
bigger market than people think for the right engine. We need inovation but
are we willing to pay for it? Somebody needs to build the better mouse trap.
Modern technology, fuel efficient and not cost prohibitive. There are people
doing great new things with avionics, we just need more people like Jan and
the Dyna-cam people and the european diesel people to get going.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Subaru Engine (long)
>
> I have owned three Subaru automobiles and two of them had engine
> problems: blown head gasket and failed oil pump.
>
> YMMV
>
> Michael Pilla
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Curt Reimer <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Subaru Engine (long)
>
>
>
> >
> > Hmmm, I hate to wade into these things (again) but I guess it's my
> turn to
> > defend the cause...
> >
> > > First of all, have any of you owned a Subaru? If you haven't, I'll
> > > fill you in on something. THEY DON'T BREAK. Obviously everything
> made by
> > > man will eventually break, but the truth is that you are so much
> less
> > likely
> > > to have problems with a properly engineered and installed (2 key
> issues)
> > > Subaru conversion that "where am I going to find a mechanic" becomes
> > moot.
> >
> > Unless you're prepared to back this up with statistics, its about as
> > meaningless as me saying:
> > "I've never had a Lycoming break down on me but I've had dozens of
> failures
> > with car engines".
> > Which is completely true. And utterly meaningless. Subarus break. How
> often,
> > neither of us knows.
> > Lycomings break too. That information is generally available if you
> really
> > want to know it.
> > We actually have meaningful statistics on airplane engines. Its one of
> the
> > benefits of being
> > so heavily regulated.
>
> SNIP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | 3 views of paint designs |
Hello Listers,
I am still struggling with a design I like for my airplane. I have seen
many that I like and have pictures for many as well. I do not however want
to copy anybody elses, but want a design of my own.
It would be simpler if I could look at many designs in one place where I
could compare 3view designs and pick patterns I like or don't like in order
to figure out how to put on a design just for me.
Does anybody know of an existing web site that has many designs all
together? Alternatively, I would be willing to create such a site if I
could get the colored 3views from any body willing to participate.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Tim
RV-6 (N616TB - never thought I could get excited about seeing "Assigned")
Finishing kit *STILL*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - how to countersink? |
> I'm trying to figure out where and how to install the
> nutplates for the screws that hold down the aluminum
> wing fairings.
[snip]
> .... or did you just countersink through
> the three thicknesses of metal?
Yup, machine countersink.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Constant speed props (was feel good) |
Dick,
Your right, but I was talking about emergency engine out landings. It's always
full forward on the prop during normal landing approaches.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Jan 25, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant speed props (was feel good)
On 1/25/02 Laird wrote:
Like you I continue to be intrigued with how much flexibility and fun the
constant speed prop adds.
One minor downside to using low pitch settings late on final is the
possibility of a last minute surprise wave off and the possibility of
forgetting the prop as you shove the throttle in.
I am trying to develope a "last minute" final memorized check to be used at
say 200-300 agl that would include prop forward.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
> One trick I tried that worked well was using the prop as a break when I
was a little high and already had the flaps out and slipping as well. Push
the knob forward and it's comes down even faster. Just one more tool to use
for altitude/speed control.
>
> I've been spoiled by the CS prop and it's breaking effect in the pattern.
It just adds so much flexibility to our RV's, but it really adds to the drag
if there no power being produced. It's also a good lesson for a real
emergency.
>
> So, I feel much better, and I've learned something (as well as being night
current for the next 90 days).
>
> Life is good again. Thanks Van.
>
> Laird
> RV-6
> SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Kevin,
My testing showed my RV-6/O360 CS best endurance at 8000 density altitude was 100
mph indicated (115 mph true) using 5 gph, and a best range speed of 130 mph
indicated (155 mph true) using 5.5 gph. That was also a with a prop speed of
2400, which is where I normally fly, although I've started using 2300 for cruise,
but it's not quite as smooth. I haven't tried using prop speeds below the
restricted zone (2000-2250), as its way too rough.
I'd recommend doing a lot of testing to refine you own numbers.
Good luck.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Jan 25, 2002 5:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: max mpg
I am going to attempt a non-stop cross-country flight in my -6A,
Astoria, OR to Kittyhawk, NC, 2100nm. Obviously I need some data on
best mpg speeds, best altitudes and such. Has anyone else tried any of
these with their planes? I have gotten fuel burn down to 5.1 gal/hr
(39-40 degrees advance spark!) at about 125 - 130 kts and 2050-2100rpm
at 8500'. Someone told me that optimum altitude would be where full
throttle would yield desired rpm. Unfortunately 2050-2100 seems to be
up around 15,000' and I'm not wild about the idea of attempting an 18hr
flight while on oxygen the whole time, although I could find some good
tailwinds up there. My attempts to e-mail Jon Johansen have gone
unanswered. I haven;t tried any flights with the plane over gross as it
would be at takeoff and the next couple of hours. Jon says that his
plane (which takes off WAY over gross) doesn't have that much greater
take-off roll.
I would also like to hear opinions about having the ability to
quickly dump fuel. I guess Johansen doesn't really have that
capability. I will be flying with 18 gals behind me and 45+ gals as a
"passenger". Plumbing a quick drain would involve a lot of work I would
guess. I realize that I am accepting a lot of risk with this flight and
I won't be flying a 6G plane(not to mention straight and level, well, at
least until Ohio perhaps!).
Has anyone found an altitude alert that doesn't cost $800?
Kevin Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 views of paint designs |
Take your 3-dimentional drawing and make 50 photo copies. Take them to an
elementary school and have 2nd or 3rd graders color the drawings using their
ideas. Offer a small cash prize for the one you like best. I'll bet it's the
best $50 you'll ever spend!
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | 3 views of paint designs |
Hi Tim;
Try this site http://www.aircraftpaintschemes.com/ They have hundreds of
schemes for a few dozen aircraft. Unfortunately it's not free. $40 for 30
days of viewing. If you find what you like it'll feel like a bargain, if not
you'll feel like you got ripped off.
John's idea of having a contest for kids is pretty good too. But no matter
what you come up with, someday, somewhere, you'll see another that looks the
same.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9 (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: January 26, 2002 9:55 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 3 views of paint designs
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I am still struggling with a design I like for my airplane. I have seen
> many that I like and have pictures for many as well. I do not
> however want
> to copy anybody elses, but want a design of my own.
>
> It would be simpler if I could look at many designs in one place where I
> could compare 3view designs and pick patterns I like or don't
> like in order
> to figure out how to put on a design just for me.
>
> Does anybody know of an existing web site that has many designs all
> together? Alternatively, I would be willing to create such a site if I
> could get the colored 3views from any body willing to participate.
>
> Thoughts? Ideas?
>
> Tim
> RV-6 (N616TB - never thought I could get excited about seeing "Assigned")
> Finishing kit *STILL*
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-n-Fun Lodging |
I too would be interested in this info.
Barry Pote Rv9a
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone recommend a good place to stay, reasonably priced, and close
> to the fly in that has shuttle service?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dumb Vacuum Pump Question |
I'm looking at the Rapco vacuum system kit from Spruce and I see I have to
specify whether I want a 215 CC pump or a 216 CW pump. Would some kind soul
take pity and tell me which I need for an O-360 A1A, and why. Please no
lectures about the merits of all electric, all of life requires trade offs.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-n-Fun Lodging |
Barry and Paul,
I would suggest a good tent, and the new airmattresses that you can purchase
at Walmart for around $20. I am old and have a hip that bothers me sleeping
sometime and Tracy Crook has an artificial hip. We both were very
comfortable camped in our tents at SnF last night for the RV flyin. There
were several other older types that slept on these new airmattresses. One
had a sleeping bag that had one built in. I say buy one an try sleeping on
it at home a couple of nites to see how it goes.
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun-n-Fun Lodging
>
> I too would be interested in this info.
> Barry Pote Rv9a
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a good place to stay, reasonably priced, and close
> > to the fly in that has shuttle service?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure (Found the Problem!) |
Guys,
Some of you wanted to know what the cause of the broken
studs on #2 cylinder if we found it. Ralph found it all right! As per
Lycon phone conversation, Ralph pulled his Slick Mags to check for
possible "arcing."
Check out the link below. It has pictures of the part from
the magneto. Ralph is 99.9% that this is what caused his broken
cylinder studs, however, he would like to know why this magneto did
this. Maybe that's why there is a TBO of 500 hrs on this critters.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mid-atlrvwing/lst?&.dir/Ralphs+Engine+Problem&.srcgr&.viewt&.last1
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Dumb Vacuum Pump Question |
Both pumps are the same except for their direction of rotation, Counter
Clockwise (CC) or Clockwise (CW). Most Lycomings take the CC type but you
should check with Lycoming or someone who has the parts manual.
Bruce
IO-540
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Dumb Vacuum Pump Question
I'm looking at the Rapco vacuum system kit from Spruce and I see I have to
specify whether I want a 215 CC pump or a 216 CW pump. Would some kind soul
take pity and tell me which I need for an O-360 A1A, and why. Please no
lectures about the merits of all electric, all of life requires trade offs.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dumb Vacuum Pump Question |
Harry:
The 215CC works fine in my O-360A4M. Don't know why.
Guess God just made it that way.
George
N888GK
Flying
--- HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm looking at the Rapco vacuum system kit from
> Spruce and I see I have to
> specify whether I want a 215 CC pump or a 216 CW
> pump. Would some kind soul
> take pity and tell me which I need for an O-360 A1A,
> and why. Please no
> lectures about the merits of all electric, all of
> life requires trade offs.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant speed props (was feel good) |
Laird, Dick, Mike et al:
This thread aroused my curiosity. I was taught, and have followed the
practice (when flying constant speed props), of going to full fine pitch
(high rpm) at some point in the approach and certainly before landing. I
generally prefer to wait until the airspeed and throttle are back far enough
that the prop doesn't seriously try to drive the engine. On the one
occasion when I flew the RV-9 that is what I did and the results were
impressive when converting a normal landing to a touch and go. But I got to
wondering what the result would be if, in an RV, one flew the approach with
the prop set at cruise, say 2400 rpm, and then had to do a go around while
failing to go forward on the prop. RV's have a pretty good power to weight
ratio. In looking at the power charts for the 0-320 I find that at sea
level standard and 2400 the engine is rated at about 150 hp at 29"hg. You
probably can't quite get that but even at 28" the power is 145 or 91%.
Compare that with fixed pitch cruise props where the climb rpm is airspeed
and pitch limited to 2200 or so and see that the engine cranks out ~137hp.
I am not suggesting that you constant speed guys ignore the prop, especially
at higher elevations where it becomes more important but it would be
interesting to see what your performance really is if you tried it, either
at altitude or on a long runway. It seems likely that unless you have the
prop pulled way back toward full coarse (low rpm) you are probably no worse
off than us poor sods who have fixed pitch props.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant speed props (was feel good) |
My wife has been learning to fly in our Hartzell swinging O-360 6A. After the
takeoff we crank the prop back to 2400-2500 RPM and leave it, then do touch and
goes. This is exactly how Mike Seager had me do it in 666RV. The plane still
accelerates and climbs great, sometimes to great. If the pattern is full of
172's then we have to pull the MP back to around 19" (after initial climb out)
and we still out climb and outrun the 172's. This is at a field elevation of
5500' msl. Now at 10000' like at Leadville, CO things might be a little
different, cept we will still out climb and outrun those 172's.
Gary Zilik
> . But I got to
> wondering what the result would be if, in an RV, one flew the approach with
> the prop set at cruise, say 2400 rpm, and then had to do a go around while
> failing to go forward on the prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | 3 views of paint designs |
I have seen lots of RV paint jobs that I really like. Some I have pictures
of (but not 3views) and others I have seen on web sites. I was thinking
the ones I like I couldn't duplicate based on pictures I have.
Do most of you have the 3view drawings Van supplied that are colored up to
go from when painting? If so I could compile those on a web site just for
RV ideas.
Having kids do it is a pretty good idea. Did anybody do their RV this way?
Or - How did you do it? I would like to see what kind of ideas I am looking
for by comparing other RVs.
Been thinking about this for YEARS and found many I like but nothing decided
yet.
Todd, the aircraftpaintschemes.com site sounds like a great idea but can't
even preview it. No idea if they would even have any RV's or RV style
airplanes before shelling out the bucks.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant speed props (was feel good) |
My mentor taught me to set 2400 RPM on approaching the airport. He knew I
had no experience with constant speed props. A go-around with the prop at
2400 works just fine if you ignore your checklist and don't advance to fine
pitch on final.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant speed props (was feel good)
>
> . But I got to
> wondering what the result would be if, in an RV, one flew the approach
with
> the prop set at cruise, say 2400 rpm, and then had to do a go around while
> failing to go forward on the prop. >
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | 3 views of paint designs |
Hi Tim;
I just went to the site & it has been changed. You can only see the one
design now. You used to be able to see about 2 dozen examples free... all
spam cans though. But they do have Van's designs for paying viewers though.
I'm still a way's from painting so I haven't been there yet. If you do bite
the bullet & pay for access, be sure to let us all know if you felt it was
worth it.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9 (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: January 26, 2002 6:10 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 3 views of paint designs
>
>
> I have seen lots of RV paint jobs that I really like. Some I
> have pictures
> of (but not 3views) and others I have seen on web sites. I was thinking
> the ones I like I couldn't duplicate based on pictures I have.
>
> Do most of you have the 3view drawings Van supplied that are colored up to
> go from when painting? If so I could compile those on a web site just for
> RV ideas.
>
> Having kids do it is a pretty good idea. Did anybody do their RV
> this way?
> Or - How did you do it? I would like to see what kind of ideas I
> am looking
> for by comparing other RVs.
>
> Been thinking about this for YEARS and found many I like but
> nothing decided
> yet.
>
> Todd, the aircraftpaintschemes.com site sounds like a great idea
> but can't
> even preview it. No idea if they would even have any RV's or RV style
> airplanes before shelling out the bucks.
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dumb Vacuum Pump Question |
In a message dated 1/26/2002 2:29:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
> I'm looking at the Rapco vacuum system kit from Spruce and I see I have to
> specify whether I want a 215 CC pump or a 216 CW pump. Would some kind
> soul
> take pity and tell me which I need for an O-360 A1A, and why. Please no
> lectures about the merits of all electric, all of life requires trade offs.
Harry-
The Lycoming manual says Counterclockwise CCW (or anti-clockwise for the
Limeys). The Sigma-Teks don't care about direction but the Airbornes/Rapco
ones do. Sometimes you need to turn the prop backwards for timing purposes
(after tripping the impulse coupling) so I went with the Sigma-tek to ensure
that I wasn't doing any vane damage. These things don't need any help to
lunch themselves.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure (Found the Problem!) |
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I'm wondering if one of the engine
monitors that shows EGT and head temp for each cylinder would have alerted
Ralph to the problem as soon as it ocurred?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 finishing wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure (Found the Problem!)
>
> Guys,
>
> Some of you wanted to know what the cause of the broken
> studs on #2 cylinder if we found it. Ralph found it all right! As per
> Lycon phone conversation, Ralph pulled his Slick Mags to check for
> possible "arcing."
>
> Check out the link below. It has pictures of the part from
> the magneto. Ralph is 99.9% that this is what caused his broken
> cylinder studs, however, he would like to know why this magneto did
> this. Maybe that's why there is a TBO of 500 hrs on this critters.
>
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mid-atlrvwing/lst?&.dir/Ralphs+En> gine+Problem&.srcgr&.viewt&.last1
>
> Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the mounting
screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped before
I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel. Any
thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Fill it with JB Weld epoxy. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panel oops
>
> After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
> instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the mounting
> screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped
before
> I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel. Any
> thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
| Subject: | 3 views of paint designs |
You can see more samples at another site: http://www.schemedesigners.com/
>
>I have seen lots of RV paint jobs that I really like. Some I have pictures
>of (but not 3views) and others I have seen on web sites. I was thinking
>the ones I like I couldn't duplicate based on pictures I have.
>
>Do most of you have the 3view drawings Van supplied that are colored up to
>go from when painting? If so I could compile those on a web site just for
>RV ideas.
>
>Having kids do it is a pretty good idea. Did anybody do their RV this way?
>Or - How did you do it? I would like to see what kind of ideas I am looking
>for by comparing other RVs.
>
>Been thinking about this for YEARS and found many I like but nothing decided
>yet.
>
>Todd, the aircraftpaintschemes.com site sounds like a great idea but can't
>even preview it. No idea if they would even have any RV's or RV style
>airplanes before shelling out the bucks.
>
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
I'd have to say that filling it with JB weld would be a mistake. It will
show. Put some Bondo in it, sand smooth, and paint.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. Rion
Bourgeois
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel oops
Fill it with JB Weld epoxy. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panel oops
>
> After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
> instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the mounting
> screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped
before
> I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel. Any
> thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Parker, I agree with Jim as I have been there done that. I used "Golden
Rage" by Evercoat having done a lot of painting this stuff is Great!
Use a piece of steel and while using a body hammer lightly tap
out the dimpled hole toward the steel backing plate. Do not try to get it
perfect as you want it a little low yet for filling.Since the aluminum is
now stretched a tad it would just pucker in the opposite direction if you
get too aggressive.
Mix the Filler allow to dry and sand, shoot a light coat of
primer on the repair. Now that the primer is dry block sand with # 400 and
any low spots will still have primer in them so you apply a little more
filler and repeat.
Golden Rage is super light,won't shrink, and even the
instrument holes can be drilled without chipping just go slow.
Tom in Ohio
RV6-A (Panel done, Wiring)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel oops
>
> I'd have to say that filling it with JB weld would be a mistake. It will
> show. Put some Bondo in it, sand smooth, and paint.
>
> jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. Rion
> Bourgeois
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel oops
>
>
> Fill it with JB Weld epoxy. Rion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Panel oops
>
>
> >
> > After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
> > instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the
mounting
> > screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped
> before
> > I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel.
Any
> > thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
> >
> > Parker
> >
> >
> > F. Parker Thomas
> > PO Box 190894
> > San Francisco, CA 94119
> > me(at)parkerthomas.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 views of paint designs |
Hi Tim
Don't know if you have seen it yet but I have a poster from monokote with
lots of 3d paint scymes on it for the rc aircraft you can borrow it if you
want.
swing by the shop next week and I will try to find it this weekend.
Ken S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 3 views of paint designs
>
> I have seen lots of RV paint jobs that I really like. Some I have
pictures
> of (but not 3views) and others I have seen on web sites.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gates Don Civ 12 ERS <Don.Gates(at)dhafra.af.mil> |
Bondo. Seriously. Or micro / flox. Or 5 minute epoxy.
-----Original Message-----
From: F. Parker Thomas [mailto:me(at)parkerthomas.com]
Subject: RV-List: Panel oops
After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the mounting
screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped before
I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel. Any
thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - how to |
countersink?
Listers,
For those of you who haven't finished your wings yet, you can avoid the
problem of having to countersink through all the material. Simply do not
rivet your #1 inboard main ribs to the spars or skins till after you fit
the wings and intersection fairings. Delaying riveting these ribs will
allow you to remove the wings. (Hey, you'll probably be removing them for
either painting or moving to the airport anyway)
With the wings off, you can remove the #1 (inboard) main ribs.
Install the nutplates to the rib flanges. Use MS21049-08K nutplates. These
are the "triple dimpled" nutplates. You can now dimple the #8 screw holes
in the intersection fairings, the upper and lower wing skins & the rib
flanges. Since the #40 rivet holes in these nutplates are dimpled, you can
dimple the rivet holes in the rib flanges and attach the nutplates only to
the rib flanges. Once your nutplates are riveted to the main ribs,
reinstall the main ribs. You can then rivet the ribs to the spars & skins.
Charlie Kuss
>
> > I'm trying to figure out where and how to install the
> > nutplates for the screws that hold down the aluminum
> > wing fairings.
>[snip]
> > .... or did you just countersink through
> > the three thicknesses of metal?
>
>Yup, machine countersink.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Priming Firewall |
In a message dated 1/26/2002 7:28:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes:
> What is CRES?
Corrosion Resistant Steel. This is the proper name (Stainless Steel was a
tradename, like Kleenex, for the alloy used in cutlery).
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
If you're as poor a builder as I am, by the time you get to this stage
you're a master at hiding things like this. I'd just conutersink it and set
an AN426 rivet flush in it. If it shows through the paint at all, it'll look
structural!
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panel oops
>
> After spending 3 full days cutting all the holes in my panel for radios,
> instruments and GPS, I went and drilled in the wrong hole on the mounting
> screw template. Everything was PERFECT up to that point. I stopped
before
> I drilled through, but now I have a nice little dimple in the panel. Any
> thoughts on filling it before I prime and paint?
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
> I'd have to say that filling it with JB weld would be a mistake.
> It will show.
If that were true, then I'd have little ugly dots all over my panel. I had
more than one "oops" hole and even an "oops" cutout that I fixed with
JBweld, and none show after painting. Then again, I primed it with
Courtaulds epoxy primer (a.k.a. Super Couropon), which probably did a better
job of sealing the JBweld than something else would have.
That being said, the guys recommending Bondo probably know more about what
works best than I do. It sure does cure faster anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I believe the parameter of interest is shrink factor. Most of the "fillers"
shrink over a period of months or so, beyond the intial cure shrink. I
don't have a published spec for JB Weld. I used micro in epoxy and my
filled error holes in the panel are invisible.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel oops
>
> > I'd have to say that filling it with JB weld would be a mistake.
> > It will show.
>
> If that were true, then I'd have little ugly dots all over my panel. I had
> more than one "oops" hole and even an "oops" cutout that I fixed with
> JBweld, and none show after painting. Then again, I primed it with
> Courtaulds epoxy primer (a.k.a. Super Couropon), which probably did a
better
> job of sealing the JBweld than something else would have.
>
> That being said, the guys recommending Bondo probably know more about what
> works best than I do. It sure does cure faster anyway.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | coupling Garmin handheld to a Garmin panel mount |
Listers-
Reading the manual for my Garmin 300XL IFR gps I noticed that it supports
the slaving of a Garmin aviation handheld. Apparently entering a route and
goto command only has to be entered from the panel mount. I am considering
buying a 195 or a Pilot III to add some additional situational awareness as
well as have an excuse to buy another toy.
Does anyone have any experience as to how well this works?
thanks,
robin wessel
RV-6A Tigard, OR- 85 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/27/02 12:28:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
me(at)parkerthomas.com writes:
<< stopped before I drilled through >>
I have had some luck in fixing similar oopses in non structural areas of
thicker panels by cutting off the head of a rivet of the right size to fill
the hole, you might have to drill the hole to fit the required rivet. Cut
the rivet shank just a little longer than the thickness of the panel, then
set it and file or grind flush if necessary, usually just on the back side.
You'll be surprised how tightly the rivet will lock in when it expands in the
panel. Worked for me a couple of times so I hope it helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure (Found the Problem!) |
What is that big blob under and to right of the rotating arm in the last 3
pictures? Is it something that used to be supposed to be there but has
somehow melted? Is it "foreign" material that has infiltrated? Is it
"conductive", so that it would send the spark "earlier" (advance the timing
to cause detonation)? Is it in the right location to cause "spark advance"
or is it located so it would cause spark retard? (I don't know which way the
arm rotates normally).
Be that as it may,
The case and cylinders have grey paint all over them, and it looks like it
extends to the contact surface under the heads - therefore, you ought not
rule out the possibility that the paint "went away" and therefore the torque
was decreased, therefore the head started moving and eventually caused the
studs to break. There were two previous posts pointing out this as a
possibility (mine and someone else)
- It is my understanding that detonation does not break studs - it
burns holes in tops of pistons and does damage to valves and spark plugs.
If there was detonation, the plugs would show it, loud and clear, from
strange melted stuff on the end.
- On the other hand, fatigue from inadequate torque is absolutely a
known cause of broken studs.
- The goo in the magneto? I've seen many cases of troubleshooting
where there were 2 or more malfunctions or co-existing situations, and you
can be seriously "bit" if you assume the first "wrong" thing you see is
"the" cause or "the only" cause.
Risk assessment: Assume you replace the mags with new ones good for another
500 hours. And you don't remove all 4 cylinders and remove the paint. What
is going to happen? You are going to break more studs and have good looking
mag parts.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Engine Problem/Failure (Found the Problem!)
>
> Guys,
>
> Some of you wanted to know what the cause of the broken
> studs on #2 cylinder if we found it. Ralph found it all right! As per
> Lycon phone conversation, Ralph pulled his Slick Mags to check for
> possible "arcing."
>
> Check out the link below. It has pictures of the part from
> the magneto. Ralph is 99.9% that this is what caused his broken
> cylinder studs, however, he would like to know why this magneto did
> this. Maybe that's why there is a TBO of 500 hrs on this critters.
>
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mid-atlrvwing/lst?&.dir/Ralphs+En> gine+Problem&.srcgr&.viewt&.last1
>
> Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hello Parker,
Re - filling oops holes in control panels etc.
On thicker materials such as that used for the control panel:
Use a rivet cut short to suit.
If you do a less than full depth machine countersink on the finish side or
outside you can carefully file and sand the remaining slightly protruding
head off the rivet after it is driven. This will avoid the little indented
ring around a fully countersunk rivet head.
To go just one step further, do a partial countersink (about 1/4 depth, more
like an aggressive deburring) on the reverse side of the material.
On the thinner materials try this first on a practice piece.
I have had success with this on material as thin as .032 Alclad.
Also be gentle when driving the rivet in thinner materials, so as not to
induce extra stresses. If overdriven, the area around the rivet will swell
in an effort to make room for the overdriven rivet, leaving a lump that will
not be easy to flatten out again.
CAUTION- Keep in mind that this procedure should not be done on structural
areas and skin areas etc that will undergo repeated stressing.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Guard experience |
All,
Has anyone installed Prop Guard one their prop? I believe it is a type of clear
tape.
If you have installed it how is it holding up and did you notice any decrease in
performance. Although the product is STC'd, I haven't seen any reports. It looks
like a good means to protect the leading edge. Comment?
Thanks,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - how to countersink? |
That is freakin brilliant, Charlie. Where were you about 8 months ago when
I did mine. Geeze...I can't wait to build my next airplane. It will be
sooooo much easier.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - how to countersink?
>
> Listers,
> For those of you who haven't finished your wings yet, you can avoid the
> problem of having to countersink through all the material. Simply do not
> rivet your #1 inboard main ribs to the spars or skins till after you fit
> the wings and intersection fairings. Delaying riveting these ribs will
> allow you to remove the wings. (Hey, you'll probably be removing them for
> either painting or moving to the airport anyway)
> With the wings off, you can remove the #1 (inboard) main ribs.
> Install the nutplates to the rib flanges. Use MS21049-08K nutplates. These
> are the "triple dimpled" nutplates. You can now dimple the #8 screw holes
> in the intersection fairings, the upper and lower wing skins & the rib
> flanges. Since the #40 rivet holes in these nutplates are dimpled, you can
> dimple the rivet holes in the rib flanges and attach the nutplates only to
> the rib flanges. Once your nutplates are riveted to the main ribs,
> reinstall the main ribs. You can then rivet the ribs to the spars & skins.
> Charlie Kuss
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I have van's oil temp gauge & sender. I removed the Piper sender & it has
a standard thread with a crush washer.
tahe van's has a 1/8 NPT. Where do i get an adapter to use the Van's
probe?
Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx
dons6a(at)juno.com
***************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil temp probe |
No matter what else you do,
SAFETY WIRE THE OIL TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT !!!
If you have to, drill the sending unit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Comant CI-122C |
Remember it is not just the weight you are supporting with the required
doubler but the load the antenna imposes on the skin with the high airspeed
of your RV.
Follow the AC 43.13 -2A for some guidance.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Greg
N250GS
RV6S Installing the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Guard experience |
Chuck,
I don't have it on my prop but the RV-4 has it on its CS prop. It was put
on April '01. The owner claims no difference in performance and likes it.
The tape looks just like the day he put it on. I'm hesitating about
installing it because I think it doesn't look as good as the bare prop. i
just wipe down tha blades after every flight to get those salt crystals off.
Rick Caldwell
-6 308 hrs. Melbourne, FL
Finished the 2nd annual: discrepancy - found (FLATTENED) dead frog in the
spinner
>From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Prop Guard experience
>Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 21:42:30
>
>
>All,
>
>Has anyone installed Prop Guard one their prop? I believe it is a type
>of clear tape.
>
>If you have installed it how is it holding up and did you notice any
>decrease in performance. Although the product is STC'd, I haven't seen any
>reports. It looks like a good means to protect the leading edge.
>Comment?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
MSN Photos is
>the easiest way to share and print your photos: href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag3_etl_EN.asp'>Click Here
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Best assembly techniques was Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - |
how to countersink?
Paul,
At the beginning of my project, RV-4 builder (now completed) Jody
Edwards, gave me the best advise I've gotten regarding my project. He told
me NOT to rivet anything together until I absolutely had to. This recently
saved me in another area. Van and George O both tell you to rivet your
fuselage floor rib/ rear spar assy. together on the bench. Had I done this,
I would have had a problem with edge distances somewhere on my 8A belly.
Van wants you to set the main spar to rear spar distance on the 8 by moving
the outer forward floor rib rearward. If I had done this, I would not have
had edge distance on the rivets which capture the cockpit side skins
(forward edge)/ main spar bulkhead & outer floor ribs (F815A forward edge).
It would also have caused the additional problem of throwing off the edge
distance between the cockpit belly skins (F826 & 7) with the outer edges of
the rear spar bulkhead forward flange (F806 bottom flange)
Since I had NOT riveted my floor rib / rear spar assembly together
previously, I was able to resolve the problem by installing shims between
the rear spar forward bar (F806C) and the rear spar web of the F806B. This
allowed me to"
1 Keep the belly skins prepunched rivet lines exactly on center of
the rear spar bulkhead bottom flange all the way across.
2 Maintain edge distance at the front of the forward outer main floor
rib (F815A) and the main spar bulkhead (F804) and forward/center side skin
joint.
3 Set the main to rear spar attach point distances to the exact
dimensions on both sides.
There were also many places on the wings that were easier to build, because
I didn't rivet the skeleton together prior to assembling the entire wing
together in Clecos.
>
>That is freakin brilliant, Charlie. Where were you about 8 months ago when
>I did mine. Geeze...I can't wait to build my next airplane. It will be
>sooooo much easier.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A N197AB Arizona
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>First Flight 22 July 01
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Fairing Attachment Screws - how to countersink?
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > For those of you who haven't finished your wings yet, you can avoid the
> > problem of having to countersink through all the material. Simply do not
> > rivet your #1 inboard main ribs to the spars or skins till after you fit
> > the wings and intersection fairings. Delaying riveting these ribs will
> > allow you to remove the wings. (Hey, you'll probably be removing them for
> > either painting or moving to the airport anyway)
> > With the wings off, you can remove the #1 (inboard) main ribs.
> > Install the nutplates to the rib flanges. Use MS21049-08K nutplates. These
> > are the "triple dimpled" nutplates. You can now dimple the #8 screw holes
> > in the intersection fairings, the upper and lower wing skins & the rib
> > flanges. Since the #40 rivet holes in these nutplates are dimpled, you can
> > dimple the rivet holes in the rib flanges and attach the nutplates only to
> > the rib flanges. Once your nutplates are riveted to the main ribs,
> > reinstall the main ribs. You can then rivet the ribs to the spars & skins.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | skin dent repair |
Can someone please give me some advise re: filler for a small (1/2 inch
long,1/8 inch wide, 1/8-1/16 inch deep) dent in my top tank skin? I will not
repair until I get ready to paint-just want to sleep good knowing there is
good material out there to do the job.
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Guard experience |
If you must use this leading edge tape please
inspect it on each preflight. If it starts coming off
in flight it will raise hell. Used to use something
like it on helicopter rotor blades to reduce errosion.
Made a few emergency landings when is started to
depart.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil temp probe |
Van's sells it as an accessory to the oil temp sender unit. Take a look in
the catalog and you will find it. Vans Part Number VA-147
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil temp probe
>
> I have van's oil temp gauge & sender. I removed the Piper sender & it has
> a standard thread with a crush washer.
>
> tahe van's has a 1/8 NPT. Where do i get an adapter to use the Van's
> probe?
>
>
> Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx
> dons6a(at)juno.com
> ***************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: skin dent repair |
Bob,
suggest superfil, rough up and clean the area good.
Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: skin dent repair
>
> Can someone please give me some advise re: filler for a small (1/2 inch
> long,1/8 inch wide, 1/8-1/16 inch deep) dent in my top tank skin? I will
not
> repair until I get ready to paint-just want to sleep good knowing there is
> good material out there to do the job.
> Bob in Arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Prop Guard experience |
I'm a believer. After the first 70 hours or so on my new CS prop, I was
loosing the paint on the leading edge and picking up a lot of dings
(flying in rain, operating from the occasional rocky taxi way). An IA
friend of mine recommended prop guard, which he's used for years on
his Mooney.
My experience (200+ hrs on the Prop Guard):
- No noticable performance penalty.
- Stopped the rain erosion completely
- Reduced the rock damage, although one hit so hard it went right thru
the prop guard, necessitating a repair of the nick
- After 150 hours or so, I had to replace the out 4" of prop guard
because the rain erosion had abraded the prop guard at the very tip of
the blade. Easy to do, using the left over prop guard that came with
the kit.
Tim
On 27 Jan 2002, at 21:42, Charles Rowbotham wrote:
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop Guard experience
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> All,
>
> Has anyone installed Prop Guard one their prop? I believe it is a
> type of clear tape. If you have installed
> it how is it holding up and did you notice any decrease in
> performance. Although the product is STC'd, I haven't seen any
> reports. It looks like a good means to protect the leading edge.
> Comment? Thanks,
> Chuck Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Niantic,
> CT)
MSN Photos is the easiest way
> to share and print your photos: href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag3_etl_EN.asp'>Click
> Here
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/
> ==
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRY BENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Flush screws for mounting elevator trim servo |
When mounting the trim servo do you dimple the cover plate(.020) and
countersink the e-615 support plate (.032) to accept the cover plate?
I will be using AN507-6r8 screws. Also there is no call out for rivet size
or quantity for the trim servo (Z) brackets. I assume it would be 426-3-3
or 3.5.
How many rivets are to be used when mount the control horn on the spar
side, 6 or 8?
Thanks Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings |
John
I do make intersection fairings for the -4 & -6. See my web site at
www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings |
My upper gear leg fairing will locate the gear leg fairing on the -4 &-6.
Been tested and it works. Web site at www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
e mail bob@fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | skin dent repair |
Bob,
I second the Superfill!
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ray sheffield
Subject: Re: RV-List: skin dent repair
Bob,
suggest superfil, rough up and clean the area good.
Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: skin dent repair
>
> Can someone please give me some advise re: filler for a small (1/2 inch
> long,1/8 inch wide, 1/8-1/16 inch deep) dent in my top tank skin? I will
not
> repair until I get ready to paint-just want to sleep good knowing there is
> good material out there to do the job.
> Bob in Arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings,-6A |
Dennis
Hang in there on the intersection fairings for the -6A, I hope to have them
available in the spring. Watch the web site www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
e mail bob@fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jayeandscott <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy/egress |
Certainly, and sorry for the delay in answering. This message was on the
kid's computer.
Contact Lee King at BONEYARD2U(at)aol.com
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy/egress
>
> Scott,
>
> Would you care to share with us where you found it? I'm sure others
> would be interested.
>
> Jeff Point
> 6 fuselage
> Milwaukee WI
>
> Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
>
> >
> >I found one of these breakers on the internet for $45 including the
mounting
> >clip and it's in the mail.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: skin dent repair |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:39:23 AM
No problem. My suggestion is to use something that is commonly used with
the paint systems that are popular. My personal recommendation is Z-grip
from Evercoat. I would clean the metal and etch with 80 grit, make it
really nasty. This stuff is formulated to stick to bare metal and I've
never had problems with it popping off or shrinking. I like to fill
something and leave it a little while to convince myself it won't shrink.
This probably isn't necessary but then I also have a magic chicken bone
from Hati I wave over ever pot of paint I mix. Eventually I get around to
sanding the Z-grip, then about twice I go over the whole thing with a light
layer of Evercoat feathering compound. I sand that to about 120 grit and
then one light coat of high-build (spot painted) primer like K-36. Sand
with the firmest block you can get away with. Your ding is long gone now.
All these products are available at paint shops and marine stores.
Eric
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 01/27/2002 08:30:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: skin dent repair
Can someone please give me some advise re: filler for a small (1/2 inch
long,1/8 inch wide, 1/8-1/16 inch deep) dent in my top tank skin? I will
not
repair until I get ready to paint-just want to sleep good knowing there is
good material out there to do the job.
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:58:21 AM
Happy Monday all,
Went to the first ever SNF RV fly-in this weekend. What a great time.
Ken Sebok (list lurker) was kind enough to haul my carcass and my camping
gear to Lakeland, a very nice cross country of on hour from the Boca Raton
airport. A weather system was threatening to descend on us from the Florida
panhandle but lucky us, it stalled there and didn't make the fly-in.
Problem is, neither did the people north of the weather system. Their
presence was missed.
We got there about legal dark-thirty and parked with about a dozen RV's.
The RV list was very well represented there. Our buddy Finn held down a
cinder block next to us in the camp fire. It was good finally meeting ya
Finn. Pizza was delivered around the campfire along with a few cool ones
that someone graciously trucked in. Thanks a million. The camping
accommodations ranged from the Airstream 9000 with it's own satellite TV
and matching satellite in geo-syncronus orbit, to my three man (if they are
malnourished) tent that was thankfully fire-ant proof.
Morning came with the typical SNF low morning fog. After a shower at the
clean shower facilities it was pancakes and sausage and coffee. Many thanks
to the SNF representatives that pitched in to feed us. About mid morning
the cowlings started coming off out in the parking area and the serious
tire kicking began. Soon the fog burned off and the RV's started coming in.
I did not have the presence of mind to count how many were there. I get
kind of giddy and stupid with RV overload at a time like that. I'm probably
alone in this malady, right? Rick Caldwell pulled in some time after
breakfast, showing off a very unique panel. Bill Davis was there showing
the proper way to build an RV-8 (and then some). Jim (I'm so bad with
names), Jim from the rv-list with the Siminole 6A had many sweet tricks on
his bird. He was nice enough to pull the cowl and show off one sweet plenum
design and an alternator kit from spruce that uses a small Japanese car
alternator. He caused quite a stir with his engine compartment. Look for
the pics on Doug Reeves site soon.
About late morning we all herded into the first big blue hangar. You know
the ones, rows and rows of vendors are usually there sweating in 100+ heat
when you are there. Did you know, that the rest of the year, they use those
hangars to store actual airplanes in. Huh, who'da thunk it. Anyway once the
heard was cornered Laura Crook got the program underway with appropriate
homage to the nice folks at SNF, who really went all out. Then she turned
it over to Bernie Kerr who showed the greatest pictures of his journey to
Alaska. I tell ya, some of these pictures looked doctored, ain't no way
water can be that blue. Some of the sights he brought back were not only
breath taking but kind of made you consider how much you actually trust
your engine. His presentation was first-rate.
Next came Roger Hershbein who bought an RV and with the help of east coast
speed guru, Rich Jankowski, was able to add roughly 50 MPH to the top speed
of his aircraft. Look for the article on Doug Reeves site. Way to go Roger.
Tracy Crook then wrapped the whole thing up with a presentation on his
Mazda Rotary engine installation.
I would like to send my biggest thanks to Laura Crook and the staff and
volunteers at SNF. They really went out of their way to make this a great
experience for the RV crowd. It truly was a small RV Sun N Fun. I highly
recommend it next year for anyone.
Some time after noon, props started turning. Not near the hassle getting
out of here, at least for most folks. We were fourth for takeoff behind a
gaggle of RV's. As our turn to take the active approached, I turned to Ken
and said "Uh, we forgot the tent back at the camp ground". I'm talented
this way, make it look easy. After fifteen minutes and a dozen fire-ant
stings we were back in the air headed to Okechobe for cheap gas along with
everyone else, but that's another fly-in.
I will be sending pictures to Doug Reeves and the Vansairforce.net site.
Stay tuned.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: skin dent repair |
I'd be careful of of doing this to a stressed skin.
Dave
> I would clean the metal and etch with 80 grit, make it
> really nasty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "A Bunny's Guide to RV Building" |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
01/28/2002 10:44:08 AM
I can no longer access "A Bunny's Guide to RV Building" that Frank Van der
Hulst kept. Can anyone help?
I found this resource to be extremely useful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: skin dent repair |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:17:50 AM
I'm not saying sand half the skin away, just etch it real good, most of
what you are removing is the alclad which does not give strength. No way
are you creating a significant stress riser (as compared to the ding).
These things are not fragile.
Eric
Dave Bristol (at)matronics.com on 01/28/2002 10:29:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: skin dent repair
I'd be careful of of doing this to a stressed skin.
Dave
> I would clean the metal and etch with 80 grit, make it
> really nasty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Listers, I want to share a little shop tip that I stumbled over last night.
I am taking forever fitting new PR wheelpants to my 6A, my own fault for
being so detail-oriented, and also due to the fact that epoxy resin does not
behave well in January temperatures (does it ever?!).
I was fussing over the details on the little doors I cut in the side of the
pants for quicker access to the valve stems (quicker than removing the front
half of the pant, which also works...) and I needed a way to attach a piece
of hinge to hold a pin that some little hold-closed springs will attach to.
Given that I was already 100 steps into this little diversion from the plans,
I dreaded the inevitable mixing of another tiny batch of West Epoxy and the
overnight wait to see if the haywire engineering was going to work as
intended.
Wait! This is a not-critical part under light loading: hot melt glue might
hold it.
Indeed, it did. In minutes, I had the parts together, and working proof that
the geometry and forces were all adequate for the job. I went on to secure
the piano hinge pins in place with dabs of hot-melt between the hinge eyes.
Looks like it would hold well enough, and is removable with a sharp knife and
a little patience. Might this work for flap hinge pins and other
trouble-spots? Try it for yourself and see... for non-critical applications,
I am starting to like this stuff. It is cheap, fast, and holds tenaciously.
Clamping times are short enough to use your hands in place of clamps.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | From today's AVweb |
Good morning, airplane builders. This was on today's AVweb:
"While a kit sold does not necessarily translate to an airplane built, the
facts are that some kit manufacturers are giving light aircraft
manufacturers a very serious run for their money, if not beating the pants
off of them. To lead the pack, more than 2,810 members of the general
aviation fleet are now represented by the designs of one kitplane
manufacturer alone. (Recall that that number meshes almost exactly with
GAMA's year-2000 general aviation shipments.) Van's Aircraft designs now
make up a significant part of the general aviation fleet and while the real
production picture is a steep curve, it averages out to 100 new flying
aircraft for every year the company has been in existence. In a sense, that
makes Van's one of the most productive -- if not the most productive --
light aircraft "manufacturers" of the past score and eight years . and the
company doesn't manufacture light aircraft at all. Consider it part of
aviation's new economy, where aircraft factories exist in tens of thousands
of garages and fractional ownership is the new business class ... and
remember that the fresh market of Sport Pilots and Planes may be right
around the corner. "
It looks like we are becoming mainstream.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: From today's AVweb |
In a message dated 01/28/2002 12:51:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terrywatson3(at)attbi.com writes:
> It looks like we are becoming mainstream.
>
That may be welcome, depending on the ego boost you get from being
unconventional. One thing it will likely change is the number of times this
happens (actual dialogue from a recent cross-country):
"XXX approach, this is RV three-zero yankee delta, passing 10 east of your
airspace at 4 thousand 5 huindred, request radar service."
"Army three zero, say call sign again, sir."
Yeah, right. If I say "Romeo Victor three zero yankee delta," he will say
something about American registry aircraft call signs begin with November,
not Romeo...
Slowly but surely, they will learn who they are dealing with, here. ("We're
here, we're fast, we're experimental, and we're in your face!")
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
Where can I buy corbin clamps...small hose clamps that you squeeze the tabs
together to open and release to close. I was thinking about using them for
pitot and static and vacuum hoses.
Thanks,
jb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Torque engine mount bolts? DAR? |
Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the
firewall structure?
Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area?
Thanks
Dan Ward
N4176SN (almost there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Helmet opinions? |
I'm looking into buying a helmet and I'd like to hear opinions on the
relative merits of the Gentex (as available from Flightsuits) and CGF
(as available from Merit Apparel) types.
I'm particularly interested in comparisons of fit/comfort and ANR
effectiveness.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | pitot line material/gretz aero |
Has anyone on the list installed the gretz aero pitot
tube. I installed the mounting bracket two bays
outbourd of the vans location. Vans location allows
connecting the air line through the access hole.
Moving it outboard will make it necessary to connect
the line before sliding the pitot tube into the
mounting bracket. Have people used nylon pitot line
here with an extra coil of tube? If so what have you
used for fittings? Also, what did you do at the wing
root, use a fitting to later run through the fuse?
Thanks in advance,
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Wings
North Idaho
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison TBI Installation |
TO THE LIST:
Does anyone have pictures of an Ellison EFS-4 installed on a O-320 LYC.; in
a RV-9A or RV-6A. I would like to check out cable (Throttle and Mixture)
runs and mounts also Fuel Line runs. Information on this setup would be
appreciated.
THANKS
Michael V. Nightingale
Deere & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
nightingalemichael(at)johndeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Monday Morning Aviation Humor.. |
This was sent to me by a Canadian friend.....Do the Newfoundlanders
really talk like this ???
" ST JOHN'S TO FORT McMURRAY "
Air Newfie
Tanks fer floying Air Newfie (pronounced new fee, ya know from
Newfoundland?)
Newfie Flight 101 was flying from St. John's
to Fort McMurray one night, with Russell the Pilot, and Glen the
co-pilot.
As they approached Fort McMurray airport, they looked out the front
window.
"B'jeesus" said Russell "Will ye look at how fookin short dat
runway is".
"You're not fookin kiddin, Russell" replied Glen.
"Dis is gonna be one a' de trickiest landings you're ever
gonna see" said Russell.
"You're not fookin kiddin, Russell" replied Glen.
"Right Glen. When I give de signal, you put de engines in reverse"
said Russell.
"Right, I'll be doing dat," replied Glen.
"And den ye put de flaps down straight away," said Russell.
"Right, I'll be doing dat," replied Glen.
"And den ye stamp on dem brakes as hard as ye can," said Russell
"Right, I'll be doing dat," replied Glen.
"And den ye pray to de Mother Mary with all a' your soul," said
Russell.
"I be doing dat already," replied Glen.
So they approached the runway with Russell and Glen full of nerves
and sweaty palms. As soon as the wheels hit the ground, Glen put the
engines in reverse, put the flaps down, stamped on the brakes and
prayed to Mother Mary with all of his soul. Amidst roaring engines,
squealing of tyres and lots of smoke, the plane screeched to a halt
centimetres from the end of the runway, much to the relief of Russell
and Glen and everyone on board.
As they sat in the cockpit regaining their composure, Russell looked
out the front window and said to Glen, "Dat has gotta be de shortest
fookin runway I have EVER seen in me whole life."
Glen looked out the side window and replied "Yeah Russell, but
look how fookin wide it is.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D FLying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Menards, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc.. They carry sizes from 1/4" up to
3/4". I used them for my pitot/staic onto the instrument barbs as well.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Brick
Subject: RV-List: Corbin clamps
Where can I buy corbin clamps...small hose clamps that you squeeze the tabs
together to open and release to close. I was thinking about using them for
pitot and static and vacuum hoses.
Thanks,
jb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Breese, Robert P" <Bob.Breese(at)usa.xerox.com> |
| Subject: | Helmet opinions? |
The types of brain bucket you get are varied. If you are going to get one
that is comfortable (did I say that?), have it made of light-weight material
(kevlar or graphite) and fitted to your head. Yes, it is expensive, but
your neck and shoulders will thank you. You may even avoid the headaches
associated with helmets. Best to see if you can try one on at some of the
trade shows.
Bob Breese
Flight Paramedic
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)mediaone.net]
Subject: RV-List: Helmet opinions?
I'm looking into buying a helmet and I'd like to hear opinions on the
relative merits of the Gentex (as available from Flightsuits) and CGF
(as available from Merit Apparel) types.
I'm particularly interested in comparisons of fit/comfort and ANR
effectiveness.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot line material/gretz aero |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: pitot line material/gretz aero
>
> Has anyone on the list installed the gretz aero pitot
> tube. I installed the mounting bracket two bays
> outbourd of the vans location. Vans location allows
> connecting the air line through the access hole.
> Moving it outboard will make it necessary to connect
> the line before sliding the pitot tube into the
> mounting bracket. Have people used nylon pitot line
> here with an extra coil of tube? If so what have you
> used for fittings? Also, what did you do at the wing
> root, use a fitting to later run through the fuse?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV7 Wings
> North Idaho
Ross,
If you did your static pressure connection in aft fuselage according to
Van's directions, you were told to slide the main instrument hose (which
runs fwd to inst panel) and two hose "couplings" (cut from that same hose)
onto a black plastic "male" T fitting. My hose couplings and hose kept
splitting (T fitting's male ends were too big for the size tubing we had to
work with) and I finally wised up and went down to a brass and plastic
fitting company (industrial supplier) and got a single Parker brand T
"female" to replace the T "male". Now, the two short pieces of "larger"
tubing (couplings) which were previously slipped onto the small clear tubing
from static ports and onto the male T, instead go INto the new Parker
fitting. Then you just tighten the 3 "ends" and it holds the tubing inside.
This is what Van's should have called for in the beginning - it is standard
hardware for making connections for that size tubing. ("No, we've never
heard of those hose pieces splitting. You are the first one." Yeah,
right.)
I'd use that in the wing for your pitot tube, also.
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
those of you who own Navaid Wing leveler might be able to help me with this
one. I recently installed one and am totally impressed with it. Wow, what a
great unit. The only fault, and I'm not sure its a fault is this; during
climbs and med cruise to high power settings, at wings level, ball centered,
the TC display reads one to three bars to a left turn. During descents, and
lower cruise settings it reads centered. On the ground, wings level it reads
centered. In all operations of wing leveler and track mode it flies the
airplane perfectly. In fact in both track and leveler mode it will display
off center to the left while keeping the wings level and the plane on track.
The only thing I can think of for why this is, would be P-factor combined
with paddle effect from the high pitch Sensenich. I used to see this a lot
on higher powered marine prop/engine combinations. The prop is in effect
paddleing the aircraft to the right, and trim is keeping the ball
centered/plane straight, but the result is a slight slide drift to the
right. But everytime I run the effect this would have on the gyro through my
head I get lost and confused.
Any thoughts???
thx in advance
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison TBI Installation |
Does anyone have pictures of an Ellison EFS-4 installed on a O-320 LYC.; in
a RV-9A or RV-6A. I would like to check out cable (Throttle and Mixture)
runs and mounts also Fuel Line runs. Information on this setup would be
appreciated.
---------------------
Michael,
I have pics of an Ellison EFS-4-5 on an O-360, in an RV-8 if you think that
will help. As far as I know, they should have the same linkage and fuel
line setup.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine or not? |
Todd,
I wanted to do this on my 8A, but was hesitant. I called Van's about it.
They said that a light Alodine layer would actually improve the adhesion of
the ProSeal. Just don't over do it with the Alodine. I built both my tanks
and 1 for a friend. All 3 tested out with no leaks.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi builders -
>Can anyone advise me on fuel tank ribs. I question - whether I should
>alodyne them or leave them bare. I know primer can be soluble in fuel so
>THAT should not be done, but do fuel tank ribs need any special protection?
>I have seen condensation in tanks. I am not sure if that is reason enough
>for the extra work. What have others done here?
>
>I only get the summary list so will be checking it tomorrow.
>
>
>--
>Todd Cameron RV7 (rib fest)
>www.powertechgroup.com toddc(at)powertechgroup.com
>--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR? |
As I recall, 225 in-pounds. You can check it for yourself...I think (from
memory) that these are AN-6 bolts with AN310 nuts. Check that on the engine
mount drawing and then look in the front of your builder's manual...there's
a table of torque values in Chapter 5.
George
N888GK
Flying in Dallas
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR?
>Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:03:19 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
>Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the
>firewall structure?
>
>Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area?
>
>Thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>N4176SN (almost there)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Monday Morning Aviation Humor.. |
Ed and List
I lived in Newfoundland (pronounced like understand, and don't get it
wrong if you ever go, annoys the hell out of Newfoundlanders when its said
wrong) for ten years and parts of the Island have very strong accents. If
you are good at accents, you can tell what part of the island someone is
from.
As an comment about Newfoundland, Dean Koontz, or one of the ex US Navy
aviation writers, in the notes at the end of one of his books said that
after being all over the world with the Navy during his career, St. John's
Newfoundland was the best port, bar none, to spend Liberty.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> This was sent to me by a Canadian friend.....Do the Newfoundlanders
> really talk like this ???
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <roadies(at)bigsky.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison TBI Installation |
Russell,
I am planning to go with an O-360 with Ellison EFS 4-5 in my RV-8.
Would like to hear your Pros and Cons of this setup.
Also would like to see pics.
Mauri Morin
Polson,Mt
RV8 wings N138BM (resv)
.----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ellison TBI Installation
>
> Does anyone have pictures of an Ellison EFS-4 installed on a O-320 LYC.;
in
> a RV-9A or RV-6A. I would like to check out cable (Throttle and Mixture)
> runs and mounts also Fuel Line runs. Information on this setup would be
> appreciated.
> ---------------------
>
> Michael,
>
> I have pics of an Ellison EFS-4-5 on an O-360, in an RV-8 if you think
that
> will help. As far as I know, they should have the same linkage and fuel
> line setup.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
> RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot line material/gretz aero |
Ross Schlotthauer wrote:
>
> Has anyone on the list installed the gretz aero pitot
> tube. I installed the mounting bracket two bays
> outbourd of the vans location. Vans location allows
> connecting the air line through the access hole.
> Moving it outboard will make it necessary to connect
> the line before sliding the pitot tube into the
> mounting bracket. Have people used nylon pitot line
> here with an extra coil of tube? If so what have you
> used for fittings? Also, what did you do at the wing
> root, use a fitting to later run through the fuse?
I got the Gretz pitot-static combination and put it one bay outboard of the
Van's pitot location so I could reach through the hole in the rib and undo the
B connectors with a wrench. I used the soft aluminum 1/4 tubing terminating in
a right angle B connector (just like the tank vent) below the pitot assembly,
and terminating in a straight through 1/4 inch B connector on the inboard rib.
I was going to use plastic, but the instructions say the first 6-8 inches have
to be aluminum to put up with the heat generated by the pitot, so I just
decided to run aluminum the whole way to the wing root. Looks very
aircraft-like :-).
-Dan Masys
-7A ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Corbin clamps |
In a message dated 1/28/2002 10:37:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jbrick(at)wolfenet.com writes:
> Where can I buy corbin clamps...small hose clamps that you squeeze the tabs
> together to open and release to close. I was thinking about using them for
> pitot and static and vacuum hoses.
I have a few in the parts bin, but don't know where I got them. Probably an
auto parts store.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR? |
Isn't that too long for an N#?
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR?
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the
> firewall structure?
>
> Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> N4176SN (almost there)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monday Morning Aviation Humor.. |
please don't be offended joe,
i've heard that old joke with just avout everyones accent tied to it. even
cajun.
scott
tampa
cajun transplant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harry Fenton - Rockford <Harry(at)Unisonindustries.com> |
| Subject: | Message #97002/David Carter mag problem |
Cy Galley contacted me regarding the pictures detailing the burned magneto
rotor gear found in a Slick magneto on an RV owners plane and I will be
looking into it when I get back into the office within the next couple of
days.
I'd like to get the magneto back to inspect it further, so please give me a
call or e-mail me at the contact below so that I can make arrangements to
make that happen and get a replacement for the failed unit in your hands. I
think that I have an explanation for the burned gear, but I really need to
physically inspect the magneto before I can make a final assessment. Based
upon what I'm looking at, it looks like there was a trailing spark which
burned across the end of the reinforcing block of the distributor finger,
which resulted in the burned hole in the gear.
The inference that I have picked up is that the arcing in the magneto caused
the damage to the engine. Usually, once the magneto arcs to the gear in the
manner that is shown, the result is a non-spark event at the spark plug.
Simply put, the mag energy discharges at the arc point in the magneto and
never makes it to the spark plug in the combustion chamber of the cylinder.
For engine damage to occur, there would need to be a spark delivered to the
cylinder on the intake stroke or the very bottom of the compression stroke
when fuel is present in combustion chamber. A mitigating factor would be
that ignition would need to occur at a point in the reciprocating stroke
when the piston is being forced down by the combustion process when the turn
of the crank is trying to force the piston to the top of the stroke.
Right now I'm pumping my arm up and down to trace the four cycle stroke and
pinching my fingers on my free hand open and closed to mark the ignition and
valve events. If I had the magneto in hand I could more easily map out the
spark cycle. To cause damage to the engine, the spark would have needed to
jump at least 90 degrees and the burn mark looks to at about a 10 degree
angle.
I'll puzzle through this more and get back to the list with a more
definitive answer. In the meantime, please provide me with some more data:
* Magneto model
* Mag serial number
* Mag hours in service
* Engine model
* Field overhauled or new
* Engine hours in service
By the way, for all the RV builders in the audience- don't be afraid to
contact the manufacturer of an item when you suspect that there is a
problem! Too often I run across discussions on the Internet that could
really be clarified or enlightened upon with some manufacturer input.
Unison Industries is very active in the support of Slick magnetos and
encourages customers to contact us directly with any questions. E-mail
pistonhelp(at)unisonindustries.com or
call 904-739-4081 to contact a tech rep.
By the way, I'm a homebuilder and aircraft owner, so I take a personal
interest in the concerns of the RV group!
Best regards,
Harry Fenton
Manager of Customer Services
Unison Industries
Harry(at)unisonindustries.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "clyde" <clyde(at)gtelco.net> |
Hello; If anyone in the Utah area could use a 8 fuselage Jig I have
one for the takeing. Also I have a 1999 Subaru EJ-25 with SOHC and 6000
total miles. All sensors, computer and wiring harness.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monday Morning Aviation Humor.. |
Morning Joe and list
Been to Newfoundland, the nicest of people. beautiful place.
Drove all over the island. (hope to fly someday)
Drove my car down the biggest runway that I had ever seen.
It was wider than my than my local runway is long!
It is true that after about the sixth beer they are hard to understand.
Highly recommend a visit if you can.
Warren
RV9 emp
http://www.ahyup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tips for cutting panel rectangular holes? |
In a message dated 01/29/2002 12:48:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> Do any of you have any tips on how to make consistant, good quality
> rectangular holes in the panel for rocker switches? (other than sending
to
> a
> laser shop for cutting....)
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9
Kim, here's what worked for me: measure and mark carefully. Drill the
corners. Connect the drill holes with a dremel-type tool and cut-off wheel
(wish I had known about diamond cutting wheels available at 5/$9.99 from
Northern Tool; they don't shatter like the emery wheels and last far longer
than the reinforced wheels for the Dremel...) Square the corners carefully
with a file.
Alternative: buy a $qaure punch the correct size from Greenlee.
-Bill B
6A flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electrical Connectors |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
01/29/2002 01:29:48 PM
OK all you R/C aircraft modelers. Has anyone used (or considered using)
dean's pin connectors for electrical connections such as electric trim
servo? Compared to the connectors I have seen suggested, these are much
smaller and lighter weight. One could use 2, 3-pin connectors for the
elevator trim servo since there are five wires. I used to tie the
connectors together with dental floss and overlay a section of heat shrink
tubing for a very solid / reliable connection. I just don't understand
why I haven't seen or heard of these connectors being used? Maybe they are
way too small for full scale airplanes / currents (although the servo wires
are awefully small too).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pitot line material/gretz aero |
In a message dated 1/28/02 11:17:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Have people used nylon pitot line here with an extra coil of tube? If so
what have you used for fittings? >>
I haven't tried it yet but the most recent RVator (sixth and final 2001) on
page 8 shows a neat way to join nylon tubing with AN fittings.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical Connectors |
I've wondered that too - I am working on installing the trim servo in my
elevator. My only concern was current draw; I'm not sure what the deans
connectors are rated for off the top of my head and I don't have any of the
packaging material handy.
Cheers,
Brad Benson
RV6AQB...
(and BVM F-16, PFS F-86, Sig King Kobra, and other small stuff :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ellis H Mcgaughy [mailto:Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com]
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Connectors
OK all you R/C aircraft modelers. Has anyone used (or considered using)
dean's pin connectors for electrical connections such as electric trim
servo? Compared to the connectors I have seen suggested, these are much
smaller and lighter weight. One could use 2, 3-pin connectors for the
elevator trim servo since there are five wires. I used to tie the
connectors together with dental floss and overlay a section of heat shrink
tubing for a very solid / reliable connection. I just don't understand
why I haven't seen or heard of these connectors being used? Maybe they are
way too small for full scale airplanes / currents (although the servo wires
are awefully small too).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connectors |
On Tue, 29 Jan 2002, Ellis H Mcgaughy wrote:
>
>
> OK all you R/C aircraft modelers. Has anyone used (or considered using)
> dean's pin connectors for electrical connections such as electric trim
> servo? Compared to the connectors I have seen suggested, these are much
> smaller and lighter weight. One could use 2, 3-pin connectors for the
> elevator trim servo since there are five wires. I used to tie the
> connectors together with dental floss and overlay a section of heat shrink
> tubing for a very solid / reliable connection. I just don't understand
> why I haven't seen or heard of these connectors being used? Maybe they are
> way too small for full scale airplanes / currents (although the servo wires
> are awefully small too).
>
You must have been reading my mind. Just finished installing the trim
servo and have the deans connectors already laying on the work bench to
attach. Before doing so I was going to see if the 5 pin connectors were
still available. Ace R/C used to have them but since they are kaput I
need to track down who might still carry them. If anyone knows an address
or phone number for the manufacturer of the Dean's connectors I would be
interrested.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
N14SE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | 8th Annual Twin Cities RF Forum |
Fellow Listers:
Just a real early notice regarding the Twin Cities RV Forum for this year.
The date will be May 4th, 2002. This will be our 8th year and for 2002 we
are moving to a new location just north of Minneapolis at the Anoka County
Airport. The venue will be the Golden Wings Aviation Museum
(http://www.goldenwingsmuseum.com) which is a brand new 45,000 sq foot
facility. The backdrop for the RV Forum will be Greg Herrick's personal
collection of over two dozen one-of-a-kind antique aircraft including
several Oshkosh champions.
The location will more than double our available display space. Activities
will include speakers, displays, vendors, lots of great door prizes, the
famed RV Discount Desk offering discounts through big-name RV supply
vendors, and an evening banquet with guest speaker Norm Petersen, recently
retired spokesman for the EAA. Van's aircraft will be represented as well.
Lot's of local lodging (free transportation), acres of ramp space and close
to the metropolitan cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul.
Details will be forthcoming, but for now, please check our website which
will be updated as we get closer to May. Please mark your calendars and
join us this spring!
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id18.htm
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connectors |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
01/29/2002 04:23:09 PM
Steve, Even if the 5 pin's are not available, I'm sure the 3 pin's are.
The thought here is that you'd put two wires on one set and 3 on the other.
Just make sure they are labelled very well so you don't get them cross
wired. Should be pretty easy to figure out, though, because 2 wires are
going to one and 3 to the other. The other advantage of using a 3-pin
connector is that their physical size is very small. You can thread one of
these through a very small hole (compared to all of the other connectors -
like 5 pin mini DINs, DB-9's, etc. that I have been looking at.)
I flew models (some competitively) for many years and never had (or heard
of) a failure of a dean's pin connector. On my competition models, I'd go
the extra mile and tie the connector halves together with dental floss and
seal the hole thing with heat shrink tape. That will never come apart
unless you cut it.
I don't have data to support it, but I'd venture to guess the weakest link
(most likely cause) a connection failure is a poor solder joint (other than
just not simply plugging it in well). The Dean's pins seem to be easy for
me to solder and visually see the separation in the wires and connections.
However, I am - by far - no electronics guru .... that is why I brought
this subject up on the matronics list to see if someone who really knew
could comment.
P.S. the other concern I have with the larger, "traditional" connectors is
that they are heavier and might "bang around" if they are not secured well.
Movement could cause stress / fatigue failure of the wire or connector over
time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Connectors |
I used the Dean plugs for my trim servos. They work great and they are gold
plated. I put a larger piece of shrink tube over the plug and shrunk it to
be sure the plug wouldn't come apart, then if I need to unplug it i just cut
the shrink off and replace it when I put it back together. Karl RV-8 711
KN 220+ hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ellis H Mcgaughy
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Connectors
OK all you R/C aircraft modelers. Has anyone used (or considered using)
dean's pin connectors for electrical connections such as electric trim
servo? Compared to the connectors I have seen suggested, these are much
smaller and lighter weight. One could use 2, 3-pin connectors for the
elevator trim servo since there are five wires. I used to tie the
connectors together with dental floss and overlay a section of heat shrink
tubing for a very solid / reliable connection. I just don't understand
why I haven't seen or heard of these connectors being used? Maybe they are
way too small for full scale airplanes / currents (although the servo wires
are awefully small too).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
--- Mark Phillips asked: Are those of
> you who have
> located these on the glare-shield or under the
> cowling satisfied with
> the results?
I mounted mine on the glare shield of my -8 (just
forward of the magnetic compass) and it works fine.
George Kilshek
N888GK
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
Hey Scott:
That rivet idea is a good one!!! Have to file that away for when
I need it!!
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | GPS antenna location |
God ain't that true...
(hypothetical scene at a local ramp check) "...ah Yes Sir, I do carry ALL
the current charts/maps... but I uh... opened the canopy on final... and
um... I think my current chart got blown out... Yeah that's the ticket... it
just got blown out!"
----- Original Message -----
From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> Laird
> (I love GPS, but I still carry a map....now if I can just remember how to
read it)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wire braided hose |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I read
indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose, but
I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
without hanging up.
this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
group , i have been away from the rv series of planes for a few years while
building composite aircraft. i have built an rv4 and an early harmon rocket.
i am now thinking of building a 6 with a IO-540 engine.
i am looking for any leads to similar built rv 6 / 540 . any info , ideas ,
suggestions good or bad . someone that has built one could possibly tell me
what they did and what they may have done different.
i am sure i will hear to not do it but i welcome all thoughts on this
thanks.......martinheisler(at)hotmail.com
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
I wouldn't use a cut off wheel, first of all. When you wrap the hose, use
electrical tape, and stretch it and pull it really tight around your spot
that you are going to cut. Put alot of tape there, maybe 1/8". Then use a
hacksaw with a high speed fine tooth blade. Keep the hose level when
cutting, and don't let it pull away. Then you will have a smoother cut and
it will be easier to put on. Also, a little bakerseal on the inside of the
fitting helps to get it on.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: wire braided hose
>
> I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I
read
> indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose,
but
> I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
> braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
> duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
> without hanging up.
> this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LDean97765(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual
elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both but
I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback.
Thank you ,
Bob Dean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
No FAR requirement for a map for part 91!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: GPS antenna location
God ain't that true...
(hypothetical scene at a local ramp check) "...ah Yes Sir, I do carry ALL
the current charts/maps... but I uh... opened the canopy on final... and
um... I think my current chart got blown out... Yeah that's the ticket... it
just got blown out!"
----- Original Message -----
From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> Laird
> (I love GPS, but I still carry a map....now if I can just remember how to
read it)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
>
> I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I read
> indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose, but
> I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
> braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
> duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
> without hanging up.
> this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
My local engine guru suggested buying a bottle of STP Oil Treatment
(AutoZone). The is the slipperiest stuff known to man! After carefully
cutting the tape-wrapped hose with a sharp hack saw, I removed the tape,
and dunked the end of the hose in the STP. With the fitting secured
hose-end-up in a vice, I was able to twist the braided hose into the
fitting on the first try 8 out of 10 times.
A dose of STP on the inner fitting helped everything thread together
easily. I put a witness mark (Sharpie) on the braid just above the
fitting before starting to thread in the inner fitting so I could tell
if the hose was backing out of the large fitting.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Airquip hoses and fittings purchased at automotive
speed shop)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
Paul;
This is not in disagreement and everyone should use what works for them. That being
said, many
Aeroquip dealers and fabrication shops use a cut off wheel mounted in a table saw
for very clean,
accurate cuts in braided hose. Yes electrical tape is used as well and tends to
be a little better
than "duct" tape because of its stretch holding a tighter grip on the braid. A
hacksaw can be used
in a pinch but even the finest blades tend to catch the braid wires and pull them
out of place. (The
extra heavy tape layer Paul refers to would no doubt help in this regard.) Aeroquip
recommends using
a light smear of the fluid being carried as an assembly lubricant for the insertion
of the fitting
into the hose. This lubrication helps immensely as does carefully twisting the
hose as its pressed
into the outer ferrule.
Bob McC
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I wouldn't use a cut off wheel, first of all. When you wrap the hose, use
> electrical tape, and stretch it and pull it really tight around your spot
> that you are going to cut. Put alot of tape there, maybe 1/8". Then use a
> hacksaw with a high speed fine tooth blade. Keep the hose level when
> cutting, and don't let it pull away. Then you will have a smoother cut and
> it will be easier to put on. Also, a little bakerseal on the inside of the
> fitting helps to get it on.
>
> Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim |
Bob,
I have elec elevator trim in my RV-8 and really like it. The range of
movement throughout the different speed requires a lot of trim change. I
also installed a manual aileron trim which is a complete waste of time. Have
been flying my 8 since Dec.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim |
In a message dated 1/29/02 11:48:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, N188rv(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Bob,
I have elec elevator trim in my RV-8 and really like it. The range of
movement throughout the different speed requires a lot of trim change. I
also installed a manual aileron trim which is a complete waste of time.
Have
been flying my 8 since Dec.
Stan Mehrhoff >>
Interesting comment about the manual aileron trim. I'm very satisfied with
mine. It allows me to trim to wings level regardless of how big or small the
right seat passenger is, and regardless of fuel imbalance. I think it is a
great workload reducer, especially on cross country flights.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
hi , i had a manual trim/cable in my rv4 and an electric trim in my rocket.
i prefered the electric trim. it may just be a personel choice. to install
either is about the same amount of time. the cost is a bit higher for the
electric. the electric was nice to operate with a button in the stick and
did not take up any side room and this made it easier for me to install my
side upholstery panels...
>From: LDean97765(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric elevator trim
>Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:05:53 EST
>
>
>I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual
>elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both
>but
>I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback.
>
>Thank you ,
>
>Bob Dean
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | wire braided hose |
Ok, time for my usual 1.5 cents worth.
The "cutoff" wheels that fabrication shops use are not the same cutoff
wheels you and I use on our high speed grinders or dremel tools. I didn't
elect to use a wheel because it basically melted the rubber and left a mess
inside the hose.
With an inverted oil system, fuel injection, etc.. I have plenty of hoses
that I scratch built. They were all cut with a fine toothed hack-saw with a
good wrap of duck tape, as mentioned previously, along with Sam's "witness"
marks to make sure the hose isn't moving. I just used a dab of lubricant in
the hose for the inner fitting.
No problems, and yes my hoses are Aeroquip (but bought at a racing store),
except for the fuel line from the servo to the spider, which is stainless
braided Aeroquip teflon (special fittings).
FYI, the guys at the racing shop where I bought my stuff offered to put my
hoses together for me, if I so desired. I didn't.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Finishing.
Paul;
This is not in disagreement and everyone should use what works for them.
That being said, many
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
I used a small radiator clamp to squash everything down, cut it off with
a wheel a 1/4" beyond the clamp, carefully start the fitting on, then
removed the clamp. Don't feel bad, they're a bitch to work with.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson
To: rv list
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 6:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: wire braided hose
I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything
I read
indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided
hose, but
I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the
wire
braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped
in
duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip
in
without hanging up.
this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 cylinder rv6 |
It was my understanding that John Harmon looked into this conversion and
figured it needed an extra 18" to counterbalance the engine. The longer
tail cone wouldn't be strong enough and would need redesign, so at that
point he didn't continue. I have heard of other super6 projects though
that didn't extend the tail that much. A 6 with another 18" of cargo
would make for a nice plane IMHO, a bike could easily fit in and a
baggage door would make sense. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: martin heisler
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 2:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: 6 cylinder rv6
group , i have been away from the rv series of planes for a few years
while
building composite aircraft. i have built an rv4 and an early harmon
rocket.
i am now thinking of building a 6 with a IO-540 engine.
i am looking for any leads to similar built rv 6 / 540 . any info ,
ideas ,
suggestions good or bad . someone that has built one could possibly
tell me
what they did and what they may have done different.
i am sure i will hear to not do it but i welcome all thoughts on this
thanks.......martinheisler(at)hotmail.com
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
What worked for me: tightly duct tape the hose end, cutoff wheel in die grinder
to make the cut, remove tape, blow out any debris from inside hose with
compressed air, put hose horizontally in vice (don't crush it, just keep it from
turning) with an inch or so sticking out the side, use a tiny flat screwdriver
blade to gently tuck any wayward braid strands into the fitting, turn fitting on
with wrench using witness mark on hose to gauge any backout. Inner fitting then
turned on with a tiny bit of lubricant.
Regards,
Ken
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
> I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I read
> indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose, but
> I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
> braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
> duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
> without hanging up.
> this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
Lots of good suggestions for dealing with these fittngs from all you guys. I
really appreciate it. The fine-toothed hack saw blade is appealing since the
cutoff wheels are worn down so quickly by the stainless braid.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, one more engine lesson learned, only a million to go
----------
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: wire braided hose
>Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 7:31 AM
>
>
> What worked for me: tightly duct tape the hose end, cutoff wheel in die
grinder
> to make the cut, remove tape, blow out any debris from inside hose with
> compressed air, put hose horizontally in vice (don't crush it, just keep it
from
> turning) with an inch or so sticking out the side, use a tiny flat screwdriver
> blade to gently tuck any wayward braid strands into the fitting, turn fitting
on
> with wrench using witness mark on hose to gauge any backout. Inner fitting
then
> turned on with a tiny bit of lubricant.
>
> Regards,
> Ken
>
> Robert Dickson wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I read
>> indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose, but
>> I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
>> braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
>> duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
>> without hanging up.
>> this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
>>
>> Robert Dickson
>> RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net> |
I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
I just received my T2000 Transponder yesterday all the way from Queensland!
I bought it from Michael Coates back when he could sell directly to us
Yanks. It is a cute little devil, let me tell you (the transponder, not
Michael!) At any rate, I was making up a drawing for the harness between
the blind encoder and the xponder and I am confused by one of the inputs to
the xponder. The xponder inputs are A1, A2, A4, B1, B2, B4, C1, C2, C4, and
then D4. The encoder has outputs for A1-4, B1-4, and C1-4 but not D4. What
is D4 for?
--
Scott (Mindless in Modesto) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Hi,
I have a GRETZ AERO heated pitot tube on my RV-6. Can
anyone tell me where to purchase a pitot cover? All the
ones I can find are for either a 5/8" Dia, or 3/4" Dia.
The diameter of the Gretz Aero pitot tube is 7/8"
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (waiting for da feds to visit)
>
> Lots of good suggestions for dealing with these fittngs from all you guys. I
> really appreciate it. The fine-toothed hack saw blade is appealing since the
> cutoff wheels are worn down so quickly by the stainless braid.
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A, one more engine lesson learned, only a million to go
>
> ----------
> >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: wire braided hose
> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 7:31 AM
> >
>
> >
> > What worked for me: tightly duct tape the hose end, cutoff wheel in die
> grinder
> > to make the cut, remove tape, blow out any debris from inside hose with
> > compressed air, put hose horizontally in vice (don't crush it, just keep it
> from
> > turning) with an inch or so sticking out the side, use a tiny flat screwdriver
> > blade to gently tuck any wayward braid strands into the fitting, turn fitting
> on
> > with wrench using witness mark on hose to gauge any backout. Inner fitting
> then
> > turned on with a tiny bit of lubricant.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Ken
> >
> > Robert Dickson wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I'm missing something on the construction of engine hoses. Everything I read
> >> indicates the 816 fittings are easy to put on the 701 wire braided hose, but
> >> I can't even get the fitting started on the hose without mangling the wire
> >> braiding. I've cut the hose using a cutoff wheel with the hose wrapped in
> >> duct tape, but hard as I try I still can't get the damn wire to slip in
> >> without hanging up.
> >> this has got to be a dumb question. what am I doing wrong?
> >>
> >> Robert Dickson
> >> RV-6A, climbing the steep, frustrating learning curve of engine hookup
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 cylinder rv6 |
Boyd C. Braem has built a super 6. He made extensive
structural modifications including lenghening the fuse
and thicker fuse skins in places. I't is definately
possible and I am sure Boyd's super 6 is more
structurally sound than many factory 6's. If you
search the RV list archives at matronics.com you will
find more info.
Good luck,
Ross Schlotthauer
Considering a 6 cylinder for my 7.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
Scott,
Give me a break... You get the good toys... and then you want us to
figure out how to install it for you!
Oh yeah, I got your "Hi" from Peggy.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
> I just received my T2000 Transponder yesterday all the way from
Queensland!
> I bought it from Michael Coates back when he could sell directly to us
> Yanks. It is a cute little devil, let me tell you (the transponder, not
> Michael!) At any rate, I was making up a drawing for the harness between
> the blind encoder and the xponder and I am confused by one of the inputs
to
> the xponder. The xponder inputs are A1, A2, A4, B1, B2, B4, C1, C2, C4,
and
> then D4. The encoder has outputs for A1-4, B1-4, and C1-4 but not D4.
What
> is D4 for?
>
> --
> Scott (Mindless in Modesto) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
I used a modification of this technique and it worked very well for me. I
actually cut through a bit of the hose clamp each time and this gave me a
perfect square cut with no frayed ends. I got two cuts per clamp before
discarding it -- one on each side.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: wire braided hose
>
> I used a small radiator clamp to squash everything down, cut it off with
> a wheel a 1/4" beyond the clamp, carefully start the fitting on, then
> removed the clamp. Don't feel bad, they're a bitch to work with.
> Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T2000 Transponder |
Turns "1" at 30,800'.
I'm sending you the ASCII file attached directly (modecascii.txt).
Finn
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I just received my T2000 Transponder yesterday all the way from Queensland!
> I bought it from Michael Coates back when he could sell directly to us
> Yanks. It is a cute little devil, let me tell you (the transponder, not
> Michael!) At any rate, I was making up a drawing for the harness between
> the blind encoder and the xponder and I am confused by one of the inputs to
> the xponder. The xponder inputs are A1, A2, A4, B1, B2, B4, C1, C2, C4, and
> then D4. The encoder has outputs for A1-4, B1-4, and C1-4 but not D4. What
> is D4 for?
>
> --
> Scott (Mindless in Modesto) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
TABLE OF MODE A AND MODE C ENCODER DATA
ALTITUDE A1 A2 A4 B1 B2 B4 C1 C2 C4 D1 D2 D4 SQUAWK
-1200 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0040
-1100 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0060
-1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0020
-900 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0030
-800 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0010
-700 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0410
-600 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0430
-500 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0420
-400 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0460
-300 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0440
-200 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0640
-100 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0660
0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0620
100 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0630
200 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0610
300 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0210
400 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0230
500 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0220
600 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0260
700 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0240
800 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0340
900 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0360
1000 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0320
1100 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0330
1200 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0310
1300 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0710
1400 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0730
1500 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0720
1600 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0760
1700 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0740
1800 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0540
1900 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0560
2000 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0520
2100 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0530
2200 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0510
2300 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0110
2400 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0130
2500 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0120
2600 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0160
2700 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0140
2800 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 4140
2900 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 4160
3000 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 4120
3100 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 4130
3200 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 4110
3300 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 4510
3400 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 4530
3500 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 4520
3600 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 4560
3700 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 4540
3800 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 4740
3900 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 4760
4000 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 4720
4100 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 4730
4200 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 4710
4300 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 4310
4400 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 4330
4500 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 4320
4600 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 4360
4700 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 4340
4800 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 4240
4900 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 4260
5000 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 4220
5100 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 4230
5200 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 4210
5300 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 4610
5400 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 4630
5500 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 4620
5600 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 4660
5700 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 4640
5800 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 4440
5900 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 4460
6000 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 4420
6100 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 4430
6200 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 4410
6300 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 4010
6400 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 4030
6500 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 4020
6600 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 4060
6700 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 4040
6800 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 6040
6900 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 6060
7000 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 6020
7100 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 6030
7200 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 6010
7300 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 6410
7400 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 6430
7500 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 6420
7600 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 6460
7700 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 6440
7800 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 6640
7900 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 6660
8000 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 6620
8100 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 6630
8200 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 6610
8300 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 6210
8400 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 6230
8500 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 6220
8600 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 6260
8700 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 6240
8800 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 6340
8900 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 6360
9000 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 6320
9100 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 6330
9200 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 6310
9300 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 6710
9400 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 6730
9500 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 6720
9600 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 6760
9700 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 6740
9800 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 6540
9900 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 6560
10000 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 6520
10100 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 6530
10200 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 6510
10300 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 6110
10400 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 6130
10500 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 6120
10600 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 6160
10700 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 6140
10800 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2140
10900 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2160
11000 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 2120
11100 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 2130
11200 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2110
11300 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 2510
11400 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 2530
11500 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 2520
11600 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 2560
11700 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 2540
11800 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 2740
11900 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 2760
12000 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 2720
12100 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 2730
12200 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 2710
12300 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2310
12400 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 2330
12500 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 2320
12600 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2360
12700 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2340
12800 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2240
12900 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2260
13000 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 2220
13100 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 2230
13200 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2210
13300 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 2610
13400 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 2630
13500 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 2620
13600 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 2660
13700 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 2640
13800 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 2440
13900 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 2460
14000 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 2420
14100 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 2430
14200 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 2410
14300 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2010
14400 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 2030
14500 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 2020
14600 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2060
14700 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2040
14800 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 3040
14900 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3060
15000 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 3020
15100 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 3030
15200 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 3010
15300 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 3410
15400 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 3430
15500 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 3420
15600 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 3460
15700 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 3440
15800 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 3640
15900 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 3660
16000 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 3620
16100 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 3630
16200 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 3610
16300 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 3210
16400 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 3230
16500 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 3220
16600 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3260
16700 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 3240
16800 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 3340
16900 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3360
17000 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 3320
17100 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 3330
17200 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 3310
17300 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 3710
17400 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 3730
17500 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 3720
17600 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 3760
17700 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 3740
17800 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 3540
17900 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 3560
18000 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 3520
18100 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 3530
18200 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 3510
18300 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 3110
18400 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 3130
18500 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 3120
18600 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3160
18700 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 3140
18800 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 7140
18900 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 7160
19000 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 7120
19100 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 7130
19200 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 7110
19300 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 7510
19400 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 7530
19500 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 7520
19600 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 7560
19700 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 7540
19800 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 7740
19900 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 7760
20000 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 7720
20100 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 7730
20200 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 7710
20300 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 7310
20400 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 7330
20500 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 7320
20600 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 7360
20700 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 7340
20800 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 7240
20900 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 7260
21000 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 7220
21100 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 7230
21200 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 7210
21300 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 7610
21400 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 7630
21500 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 7620
21600 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 7660
21700 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 7640
21800 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 7440
21900 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 7460
22000 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 7420
22100 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 7430
22200 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 7410
22300 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 7010
22400 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 7030
22500 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 7020
22600 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 7060
22700 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 7040
22800 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 5040
22900 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 5060
23000 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 5020
23100 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 5030
23200 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 5010
23300 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 5410
23400 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5430
23500 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 5420
23600 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 5460
23700 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 5440
23800 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 5640
23900 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 5660
24000 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 5620
24100 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5630
24200 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 5610
24300 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 5210
24400 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 5230
24500 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 5220
24600 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 5260
24700 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 5240
24800 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 5340
24900 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 5360
25000 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 5320
25100 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 5330
25200 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 5310
25300 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 5710
25400 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5730
25500 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 5720
25600 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 5760
25700 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 5740
25800 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 5540
25900 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 5560
26000 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 5520
26100 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5530
26200 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 5510
26300 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 5110
26400 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 5130
26500 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 5120
26600 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 5160
26700 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 5140
26800 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1140
26900 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1160
27000 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1120
27100 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1130
27200 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1110
27300 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1510
27400 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1530
27500 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1520
27600 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1560
27700 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1540
27800 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1740
27900 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1760
28000 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1720
28100 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1730
28200 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1710
28300 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1310
28400 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1330
28500 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1320
28600 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1360
28700 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1340
28800 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1240
28900 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1260
29000 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1220
29100 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1230
29200 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1210
29300 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1610
29400 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1630
29500 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1620
29600 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1660
29700 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1640
29800 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1440
29900 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1460
30000 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1420
30100 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1430
30200 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1410
30300 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1010
30400 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1030
30500 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1020
30600 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1060
30700 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1040
30800 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1044
30900 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1064
31000 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1024
31100 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1034
31200 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1014
31300 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1414
31400 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1434
31500 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1424
31600 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1464
31700 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1444
31800 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1644
31900 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1664
32000 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1624
32100 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1634
32200 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1614
32300 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1214
32400 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1234
32500 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1224
32600 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1264
32700 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1244
32800 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1344
32900 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1364
33000 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1324
33100 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1334
33200 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1314
33300 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1714
33400 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1734
33500 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1724
33600 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1764
33700 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1744
33800 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1544
33900 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1564
34000 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1524
34100 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1534
34200 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1514
34300 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1114
34400 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1134
34500 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1124
34600 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1164
34700 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1144
34800 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 5144
34900 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 5164
35000 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 5124
35100 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 5134
35200 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 5114
35300 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 5514
35400 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 5534
35500 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 5524
35600 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 5564
35700 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 5544
35800 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 5744
35900 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 5764
36000 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 5724
36100 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 5734
36200 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 5714
36300 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 5314
36400 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 5334
36500 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 5324
36600 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 5364
36700 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 5344
36800 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 5244
36900 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 5264
37000 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 5224
37100 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 5234
37200 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 5214
37300 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 5614
37400 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 5634
37500 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 5624
37600 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 5664
37700 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 5644
37800 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 5444
37900 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 5464
38000 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 5424
38100 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 5434
38200 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 5414
38300 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 5014
38400 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 5034
38500 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 5024
38600 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 5064
38700 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 5044
38800 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 7044
38900 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 7064
39000 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 7024
39100 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 7034
39200 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 7014
39300 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 7414
39400 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 7434
39500 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 7424
39600 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 7464
39700 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 7444
39800 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 7644
39900 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 7664
40000 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 7624
40100 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 7634
40200 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 7614
40300 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 7214
40400 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 7234
40500 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 7224
40600 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 7264
40700 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 7244
40800 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 7344
40900 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 7364
41000 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 7324
41100 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 7334
41200 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 7314
41300 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 7714
41400 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 7734
41500 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 7724
41600 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 7764
41700 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 7744
41800 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 7544
41900 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 7564
42000 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 7524
42100 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 7534
42200 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 7514
42300 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 7114
42400 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 7134
42500 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 7124
42600 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 7164
42700 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 7144
42800 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 3144
42900 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 3164
43000 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 3124
43100 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 3134
43200 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 3114
43300 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 3514
43400 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 3534
43500 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 3524
43600 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 3564
43700 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 3544
43800 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 3744
43900 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 3764
44000 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 3724
44100 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 3734
44200 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 3714
44300 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 3314
44400 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 3334
44500 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 3324
44600 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 3364
44700 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 3344
44800 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 3244
44900 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 3264
45000 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 3224
45100 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 3234
45200 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 3214
45300 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 3614
45400 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 3634
45500 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 3624
45600 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 3664
45700 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 3644
45800 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 3444
45900 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 3464
46000 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 3424
46100 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 3434
46200 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 3414
46300 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 3014
46400 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 3034
46500 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 3024
46600 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 3064
46700 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 3044
46800 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 2044
46900 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 2064
47000 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 2024
47100 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 2034
47200 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 2014
47300 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 2414
47400 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 2434
47500 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 2424
47600 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 2464
47700 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 2444
47800 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 2644
47900 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 2664
48000 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 2624
48100 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 2634
48200 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 2614
48300 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 2214
48400 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 2234
48500 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 2224
48600 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 2264
48700 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 2244
48800 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 2344
48900 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 2364
49000 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 2324
49100 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 2334
49200 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 2314
49300 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 2714
49400 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 2734
49500 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 2724
49600 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 2764
49700 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 2744
49800 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 2544
49900 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 2564
50000 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 2524
50100 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 2534
50200 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 2514
50300 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 2114
50400 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 2134
50500 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 2124
50600 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 2164
50700 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 2144
50800 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 6144
50900 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 6164
51000 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 6124
51100 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 6134
51200 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 6114
51300 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 6514
51400 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 6534
51500 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 6524
51600 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 6564
51700 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 6544
51800 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 6744
51900 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 6764
52000 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 6724
52100 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 6734
52200 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 6714
52300 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 6314
52400 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 6334
52500 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 6324
52600 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 6364
52700 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 6344
52800 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 6244
52900 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 6264
53000 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 6224
53100 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 6234
53200 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 6214
53300 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 6614
53400 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 6634
53500 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 6624
53600 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 6664
53700 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 6644
53800 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 6444
53900 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 6464
54000 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 6424
54100 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 6434
54200 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 6414
54300 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 6014
54400 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 6034
54500 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 6024
54600 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 6064
54700 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 6044
54800 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 4044
54900 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 4064
55000 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 4024
55100 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 4034
55200 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 4014
55300 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 4414
55400 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 4434
55500 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 4424
55600 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 4464
55700 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 4444
55800 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 4644
55900 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 4664
56000 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 4624
56100 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 4634
56200 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 4614
56300 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 4214
56400 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 4234
56500 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 4224
56600 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 4264
56700 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 4244
56800 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 4344
56900 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 4364
57000 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 4324
57100 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 4334
57200 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 4314
57300 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 4714
57400 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 4734
57500 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 4724
57600 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 4764
57700 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 4744
57800 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 4544
57900 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 4564
58000 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 4524
58100 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 4534
58200 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 4514
58300 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 4114
58400 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 4134
58500 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 4124
58600 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 4164
58700 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 4144
58800 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0144
58900 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0164
59000 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0124
59100 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0134
59200 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0114
59300 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0514
59400 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0534
59500 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0524
59600 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0564
59700 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0544
59800 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0744
59900 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0764
60000 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0724
60100 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0734
60200 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0714
60300 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0314
60400 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0334
60500 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0324
60600 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0364
60700 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0344
60800 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0244
60900 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0264
61000 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0224
61100 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0234
61200 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0214
61300 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0614
61400 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0634
61500 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0624
61600 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0664
61700 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0644
61800 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0444
61900 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0464
62000 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0424
62100 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0434
62200 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0414
62300 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0014
62400 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0034
62500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0024
62600 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0064
62700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0044
62800 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0046
62900 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0066
63000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0026
63100 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0036
63200 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0016
63300 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0416
63400 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0436
63500 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0426
63600 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0466
63700 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0446
63800 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0646
63900 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0666
64000 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0626
64100 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0636
64200 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0616
64300 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0216
64400 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0236
64500 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0226
64600 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0266
64700 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0246
64800 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0346
64900 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0366
65000 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0326
65100 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0336
65200 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0316
65300 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0716
65400 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0736
65500 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0726
65600 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0766
65700 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0746
65800 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0546
65900 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0566
66000 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0526
66100 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0536
66200 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0516
66300 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0116
66400 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0136
66500 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0126
66600 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0166
66700 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0146
66800 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 4146
66900 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 4166
67000 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 4126
67100 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 4136
67200 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 4116
67300 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 4516
67400 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 4536
67500 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 4526
67600 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 4566
67700 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 4546
67800 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 4746
67900 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 4766
68000 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 4726
68100 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 4736
68200 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 4716
68300 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 4316
68400 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 4336
68500 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 4326
68600 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 4366
68700 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 4346
68800 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 4246
68900 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 4266
69000 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 4226
69100 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 4236
69200 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 4216
69300 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 4616
69400 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 4636
69500 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 4626
69600 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 4666
69700 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 4646
69800 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 4446
69900 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 4466
70000 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 4426
70100 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 4436
70200 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 4416
70300 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 4016
70400 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 4036
70500 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 4026
70600 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 4066
70700 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 4046
70800 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 6046
70900 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 6066
71000 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 6026
71100 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 6036
71200 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 6016
71300 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 6416
71400 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 6436
71500 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 6426
71600 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 6466
71700 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 6446
71800 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 6646
71900 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 6666
72000 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 6626
72100 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 6636
72200 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 6616
72300 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 6216
72400 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 6236
72500 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 6226
72600 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 6266
72700 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 6246
72800 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 6346
72900 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 6366
73000 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 6326
73100 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 6336
73200 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 6316
73300 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 6716
73400 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 6736
73500 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 6726
73600 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 6766
73700 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 6746
73800 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 6546
73900 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 6566
74000 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 6526
74100 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 6536
74200 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 6516
74300 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 6116
74400 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 6136
74500 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 6126
74600 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 6166
74700 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 6146
74800 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 2146
74900 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 2166
75000 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 2126
75100 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 2136
75200 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 2116
75300 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 2516
75400 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 2536
75500 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 2526
75600 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 2566
75700 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 2546
75800 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 2746
75900 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 2766
76000 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 2726
76100 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 2736
76200 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 2716
76300 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 2316
76400 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 2336
76500 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 2326
76600 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 2366
76700 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 2346
76800 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 2246
76900 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 2266
77000 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 2226
77100 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 2236
77200 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 2216
77300 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 2616
77400 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 2636
77500 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 2626
77600 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 2666
77700 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 2646
77800 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 2446
77900 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 2466
78000 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 2426
78100 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 2436
78200 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 2416
78300 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 2016
78400 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 2036
78500 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 2026
78600 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 2066
78700 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 2046
78800 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 3046
78900 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 3066
79000 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 3026
79100 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 3036
79200 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 3016
79300 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 3416
79400 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 3436
79500 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 3426
79600 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 3466
79700 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 3446
79800 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 3646
79900 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 3666
80000 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 3626
80100 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 3636
80200 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 3616
80300 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 3216
80400 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 3236
80500 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 3226
80600 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 3266
80700 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 3246
80800 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 3346
80900 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 3366
81000 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 3326
81100 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 3336
81200 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 3316
81300 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 3716
81400 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 3736
81500 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 3726
81600 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 3766
81700 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 3746
81800 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 3546
81900 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 3566
82000 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 3526
82100 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 3536
82200 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 3516
82300 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 3116
82400 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 3136
82500 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 3126
82600 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 3166
82700 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 3146
82800 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 7146
82900 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 7166
83000 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 7126
83100 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 7136
83200 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 7116
83300 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 7516
83400 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 7536
83500 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 7526
83600 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 7566
83700 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 7546
83800 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 7746
83900 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 7766
84000 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 7726
84100 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 7736
84200 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 7716
84300 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 7316
84400 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 7336
84500 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 7326
84600 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 7366
84700 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 7346
84800 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 7246
84900 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 7266
85000 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 7226
85100 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 7236
85200 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 7216
85300 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 7616
85400 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 7636
85500 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 7626
85600 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 7666
85700 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 7646
85800 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 7446
85900 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 7466
86000 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 7426
86100 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 7436
86200 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 7416
86300 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 7016
86400 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 7036
86500 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 7026
86600 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 7066
86700 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 7046
86800 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 5046
86900 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 5066
87000 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 5026
87100 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 5036
87200 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 5016
87300 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 5416
87400 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 5436
87500 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 5426
87600 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 5466
87700 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 5446
87800 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 5646
87900 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 5666
88000 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 5626
88100 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 5636
88200 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 5616
88300 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 5216
88400 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 5236
88500 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 5226
88600 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 5266
88700 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 5246
88800 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 5346
88900 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 5366
89000 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 5326
89100 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 5336
89200 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 5316
89300 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 5716
89400 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 5736
89500 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 5726
89600 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 5766
89700 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 5746
89800 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 5546
89900 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 5566
90000 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 5526
90100 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 5536
90200 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 5516
90300 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 5116
90400 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 5136
90500 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 5126
90600 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 5166
90700 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 5146
90800 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1146
90900 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1166
91000 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1126
91100 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1136
91200 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1116
91300 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1516
91400 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1536
91500 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1526
91600 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1566
91700 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1546
91800 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1746
91900 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1766
92000 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1726
92100 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1736
92200 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1716
92300 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1316
92400 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1336
92500 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1326
92600 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1366
92700 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1346
92800 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1246
92900 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1266
93000 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1226
93100 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1236
93200 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1216
93300 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1616
93400 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1636
93500 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1626
93600 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1666
93700 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1646
93800 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1446
93900 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1466
94000 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1426
94100 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1436
94200 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1416
94300 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1016
94400 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1036
94500 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1026
94600 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1066
94700 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1046
94800 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1042
94900 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1062
95000 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1022
95100 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1032
95200 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1012
95300 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1412
95400 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1432
95500 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1422
95600 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1462
95700 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1442
95800 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1642
95900 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1662
96000 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1622
96100 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1632
96200 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1612
96300 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1212
96400 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1232
96500 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1222
96600 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1262
96700 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1242
96800 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1342
96900 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1362
97000 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1322
97100 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1332
97200 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1312
97300 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1712
97400 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1732
97500 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1722
97600 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1762
97700 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1742
97800 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1542
97900 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1562
98000 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1522
98100 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1532
98200 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1512
98300 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1112
98400 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1132
98500 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1122
98600 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1162
98700 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1142
98800 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 5142
98900 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 5162
99000 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 5122
99100 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 5132
99200 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 5112
99300 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 5512
99400 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 5532
99500 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 5522
99600 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 5562
99700 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 5542
99800 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 5742
99900 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 5762
100000 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 5722
100100 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 5732
100200 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 5712
100300 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 5312
100400 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 5332
100500 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 5322
100600 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 5362
100700 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 5342
100800 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 5242
100900 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 5262
101000 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 5222
101100 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 5232
101200 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 5212
101300 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 5612
101400 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 5632
101500 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 5622
101600 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 5662
101700 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 5642
101800 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 5442
101900 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 5462
102000 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 5422
102100 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 5432
102200 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 5412
102300 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 5012
102400 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 5032
102500 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 5022
102600 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 5062
102700 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 5042
102800 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 7042
102900 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 7062
103000 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 7022
103100 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 7032
103200 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 7012
103300 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 7412
103400 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 7432
103500 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 7422
103600 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 7462
103700 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 7442
103800 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 7642
103900 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 7662
104000 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 7622
104100 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 7632
104200 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 7612
104300 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 7212
104400 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 7232
104500 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 7222
104600 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 7262
104700 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 7242
104800 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 7342
104900 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 7362
105000 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 7322
105100 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 7332
105200 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 7312
105300 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 7712
105400 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 7732
105500 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 7722
105600 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 7762
105700 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 7742
105800 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 7542
105900 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 7562
106000 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 7522
106100 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 7532
106200 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 7512
106300 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 7112
106400 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 7132
106500 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 7122
106600 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 7162
106700 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 7142
106800 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 3142
106900 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 3162
107000 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 3122
107100 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 3132
107200 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 3112
107300 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 3512
107400 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 3532
107500 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 3522
107600 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 3562
107700 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 3542
107800 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 3742
107900 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 3762
108000 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 3722
108100 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 3732
108200 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 3712
108300 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 3312
108400 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 3332
108500 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 3322
108600 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 3362
108700 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 3342
108800 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 3242
108900 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 3262
109000 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 3222
109100 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 3232
109200 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 3212
109300 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 3612
109400 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 3632
109500 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 3622
109600 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 3662
109700 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 3642
109800 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 3442
109900 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 3462
110000 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 3422
110100 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 3432
110200 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 3412
110300 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 3012
110400 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 3032
110500 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 3022
110600 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 3062
110700 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 3042
110800 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 2042
110900 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 2062
111000 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 2022
111100 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 2032
111200 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 2012
111300 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 2412
111400 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 2432
111500 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 2422
111600 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 2462
111700 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 2442
111800 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 2642
111900 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 2662
112000 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 2622
112100 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 2632
112200 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 2612
112300 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 2212
112400 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 2232
112500 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 2222
112600 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 2262
112700 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 2242
112800 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 2342
112900 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 2362
113000 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 2322
113100 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 2332
113200 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 2312
113300 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 2712
113400 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 2732
113500 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 2722
113600 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 2762
113700 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 2742
113800 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 2542
113900 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 2562
114000 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 2522
114100 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 2532
114200 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 2512
114300 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 2112
114400 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 2132
114500 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 2122
114600 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 2162
114700 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 2142
114800 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 6142
114900 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 6162
115000 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 6122
115100 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 6132
115200 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 6112
115300 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 6512
115400 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 6532
115500 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 6522
115600 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 6562
115700 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 6542
115800 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 6742
115900 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 6762
116000 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 6722
116100 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 6732
116200 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 6712
116300 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 6312
116400 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 6332
116500 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 6322
116600 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 6362
116700 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 6342
116800 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 6242
116900 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 6262
117000 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 6222
117100 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 6232
117200 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 6212
117300 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 6612
117400 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 6632
117500 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 6622
117600 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 6662
117700 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 6642
117800 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 6442
117900 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 6462
118000 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 6422
118100 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 6432
118200 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 6412
118300 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 6012
118400 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 6032
118500 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 6022
118600 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 6062
118700 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 6042
118800 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 4042
118900 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 4062
119000 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 4022
119100 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 4032
119200 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 4012
119300 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 4412
119400 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 4432
119500 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 4422
119600 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 4462
119700 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 4442
119800 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 4642
119900 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 4662
120000 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 4622
120100 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 4632
120200 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 4612
120300 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 4212
120400 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 4232
120500 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 4222
120600 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 4262
120700 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 4242
120800 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 4342
120900 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 4362
121000 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 4322
121100 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 4332
121200 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 4312
121300 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 4712
121400 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 4732
121500 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 4722
121600 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 4762
121700 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 4742
121800 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 4542
121900 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 4562
122000 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 4522
122100 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 4532
122200 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 4512
122300 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 4112
122400 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 4132
122500 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 4122
122600 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 4162
122700 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 4142
122800 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0142
122900 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0162
123000 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0122
123100 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0132
123200 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0112
123300 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0512
123400 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0532
123500 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0522
123600 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0562
123700 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0542
123800 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0742
123900 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0762
124000 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0722
124100 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0732
124200 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0712
124300 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0312
124400 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0332
124500 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0322
124600 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0362
124700 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0342
124800 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0242
124900 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0262
125000 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0222
125100 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0232
125200 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0212
125300 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0612
125400 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0632
125500 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0622
125600 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0662
125700 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0642
125800 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0442
125900 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0462
126000 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 1 0 0422
126100 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 1 0 0432
126200 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 0 0412
126300 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0012
126400 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0032
126500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0022
126600 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0062
126700 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0042
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: T2000 Transponder |
> --- Original Message ---
>Sent: 01/30/02 11:43:56
>From: crabaut(at)coalinga.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
Rabaut"
>
>Scott,
>
> Give me a break... You get the
good toys... and then you want us to
>figure out how to install it for you!
>Oh yeah, I got your "Hi" from Peggy.
>
> Chuck
>
>
Hmmm I thought thats what this list was
for Chuck.
Jeff Garrett
RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Tom,
I mounted mine of the bottom of my RV-6 as far forward
as I could to ensure maximum ground clearance.
It is positioned on the fuselage centerline just behind
the battery box which is mounted on the aft side of the
firewall.
-Glenn Gordon
>
> I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
> install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
> it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net> |
| Subject: | Template for F802A |
Greetings to all on the list.
I am building an 8 and am presently working on the Landing Gear Boxes.
On Orndorf's Video he shows a template for drilling the holes in the
F802A&B but I have no idea where to find this template !
It's not in my plans and Vans' does not have any knowledge of it.
Can any one help ?Perhaps if some one has it they could send it to me at
cjordan(at)silk.net
Also I am in the market for an Inverted oil system if any one has one
for sale.
Thanks , from frozen Kelowna B.C.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
> Lots of good suggestions for dealing with these fittngs from all you guys.
I
> really appreciate it. The fine-toothed hack saw blade is appealing since
the
> cutoff wheels are worn down so quickly by the stainless braid.
What kind of cutoff wheels are you using? The little thin dremel ones are
useless in this application. The larger fiberglass-reinforced ones on a
die-grinder hold up much better and their larger size makes them a better
match for this project too.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
AH! His eyes opened! That's why the encoder I bought said it was only good
to 30000' Funny how that works! Thanks Finn!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
Turns "1" at 30,800'.
I'm sending you the ASCII file attached directly (modecascii.txt).
Finn
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I just received my T2000 Transponder yesterday all the way from
Queensland!
> I bought it from Michael Coates back when he could sell directly to us
> Yanks. It is a cute little devil, let me tell you (the transponder, not
> Michael!) At any rate, I was making up a drawing for the harness between
> the blind encoder and the xponder and I am confused by one of the inputs
to
> the xponder. The xponder inputs are A1, A2, A4, B1, B2, B4, C1, C2, C4,
and
> then D4. The encoder has outputs for A1-4, B1-4, and C1-4 but not D4.
What
> is D4 for?
>
> --
> Scott (Mindless in Modesto) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Tom,
FWIW, You will want to mount your antenna up near the landing gear area.
Most of them that I have seen, and where I mounted mine, are mounted just a
little aft of the wing spar box under the pilots seat area.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: VHF Antenna
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:54:27 -0500
>
>
>I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
>install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
>it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
Aww.... Cut Chuck some slack. He's one of the good guys. No, really. He's
just mad that he has two RV's neither of which is flyable. Have you told
everone that story yet Chuck? C'mon! It's a great story!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: FtpBandit@web-unwired.net [mailto:FtpBandit@web-unwired.net]
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
<FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
> --- Original Message ---
>Sent: 01/30/02 11:43:56
>From: crabaut(at)coalinga.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
Rabaut"
>
>Scott,
>
> Give me a break... You get the
good toys... and then you want us to
>figure out how to install it for you!
>Oh yeah, I got your "Hi" from Peggy.
>
> Chuck
>
>
Hmmm I thought thats what this list was
for Chuck.
Jeff Garrett
RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: VHF Antenna |
Almost center of fuselage, slightly left of the overlapped skin. Seal with RTV,
route the cable through the baffles and wing center(grommet).
Stephan Servatius
RV8 not yet airborne
Germany
Thomas Yeager schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Thomas Yeager"
>
> I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
> install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
> it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: VHF Antenna |
Tom:
I put mine on the right side fuselage bottom using a doubler plate inside.
The coax connection is centered between the right hand seat ribs and about 2
inches behind the aileron push rod. Works fine. The transponder antenna is
mounted in a similar location on the left side.
George
N888GK
>From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:54:27 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Thomas Yeager"
>
>I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
>install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
>it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim |
Bob:
I have manual elevator trim and it works fine in all flight regimes.
I have manual aileron trim and it's power is limited. Also, it seems to
introduce some additional stiffness into the aileron control circuit.
If I had it to do over again, I'd stay with the manual elevator trim (KISS)
but go with electric aileron trim.
George
N888GK
>From: LDean97765(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim
>Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:05:53 EST
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: LDean97765(at)aol.com
>
>I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual
>elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both
>but
>I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback.
>
>Thank you ,
>
>Bob Dean
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
>
>> Lots of good suggestions for dealing with these fittngs from all you guys.
> I
>> really appreciate it. The fine-toothed hack saw blade is appealing since
> the
>> cutoff wheels are worn down so quickly by the stainless braid.
>
> What kind of cutoff wheels are you using? The little thin dremel ones are
> useless in this application. The larger fiberglass-reinforced ones on a
> die-grinder hold up much better and their larger size makes them a better
> match for this project too.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
I've actually used both kinds of cutoff wheels, and both get eaten up pretty
quickly cutting this stuff. I expect it's just that I'm used to cutting
aluminum or plastic, not steel. I only went to the dremel-type wheel when I
wore down my next to last fiberglass wheel.
Robert Dickson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
Scott,
So you're one of those "kiss & tell" guys huh? I'm still flyin'...(an
Ercoupe counts as flying, doesn't it? I just keep an eye on my "six" for
tail strikes from birds!) ...but this fuel injection stuff has got me all
worked up into a lather.
Chuck
P.S. The dogs had it coming, they almost got the mailman, they did get the
Animal Control Officer (he's looking at 2-4 months off on worker's comp),
and there were kids walking home from school.
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
> Aww.... Cut Chuck some slack. He's one of the good guys. No, really.
He's
> just mad that he has two RV's neither of which is flyable. Have you told
> everone that story yet Chuck? C'mon! It's a great
story!
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: FtpBandit@web-unwired.net [mailto:FtpBandit@web-unwired.net]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
>
> <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
>
>
> > --- Original Message ---
> >Sent: 01/30/02 11:43:56
> >From: crabaut(at)coalinga.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
> >
> Rabaut"
> >
> >Scott,
> >
> > Give me a break... You get the
> good toys... and then you want us to
> >figure out how to install it for you!
> >Oh yeah, I got your "Hi" from Peggy.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> Hmmm I thought thats what this list was
> for Chuck.
>
> Jeff Garrett
> RV-7
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | T2000 Transponder |
Some dogs are just born bad. Good shot.
PS. Did I miss the kiss?
--
Scott (I just love a man in uniform) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com]
Subject: Fw: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
Scott,
So you're one of those "kiss & tell" guys huh? I'm still flyin'...(an
Ercoupe counts as flying, doesn't it? I just keep an eye on my "six" for
tail strikes from birds!) ...but this fuel injection stuff has got me all
worked up into a lather.
Chuck
P.S. The dogs had it coming, they almost got the mailman, they did get the
Animal Control Officer (he's looking at 2-4 months off on worker's comp),
and there were kids walking home from school.
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
> Aww.... Cut Chuck some slack. He's one of the good guys. No, really.
He's
> just mad that he has two RV's neither of which is flyable. Have you told
> everone that story yet Chuck? C'mon! It's a great
story!
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: FtpBandit@web-unwired.net [mailto:FtpBandit@web-unwired.net]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
>
>
> <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
>
>
> > --- Original Message ---
> >Sent: 01/30/02 11:43:56
> >From: crabaut(at)coalinga.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Fw: RV-List: T2000 Transponder
> >
> Rabaut"
> >
> >Scott,
> >
> > Give me a break... You get the
> good toys... and then you want us to
> >figure out how to install it for you!
> >Oh yeah, I got your "Hi" from Peggy.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> Hmmm I thought thats what this list was
> for Chuck.
>
> Jeff Garrett
> RV-7
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: VHF Antenna |
Put mine right down there in the left footwell area. Just make sure there's
room for everything else going on in that busy area. Then you can run the
cable unobtrusively next to and under the "skeleton".
Good luck.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net>
Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Thomas Yeager"
>
> I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
> install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
> it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Glenn,
We bought the bootie from Sportys and extended the velcro strap (by adding
an additional piece of velcro. It has worked well.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Pitot Cover
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:50:30 +0000
>
>
>Hi,
>I have a GRETZ AERO heated pitot tube on my RV-6. Can
>anyone tell me where to purchase a pitot cover? All the
>ones I can find are for either a 5/8" Dia, or 3/4" Dia.
>The diameter of the Gretz Aero pitot tube is 7/8"
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>N442E (waiting for da feds to visit)
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
I have a manual elevator trim and aileron trim on my RV6A. The elevator
trim has a "lag" in it which makes it hard to adjust. I would strongly
recommend the electric trim. My manual aileron trim works just fine.
Leon
----- Original Message -----
From: <LDean97765(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric elevator trim
>
> I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual
> elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both
but
> I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback.
>
> Thank you ,
>
> Bob Dean
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Tom,
We mounted our VHF ant and Txpd antennas about 1' behind the main spar, as
close as possible to side of the fuselage (about 4-6") away.
The txpd is on the left (closest to the txpd. We have not had any
interfearence problems and have good reception in the air and on the ground.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic)
*******
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: VHF Antenna
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:28:55 -1000
>
>
>Tom,
>
>FWIW, You will want to mount your antenna up near the landing gear area.
>Most of them that I have seen, and where I mounted mine, are mounted just a
>little aft of the wing spar box under the pilots seat area.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: VHF Antenna
> >Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:54:27 -0500
> >
> >
> >I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
> >install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
> >it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
I've had good luck with a sharp axe. I'm not kidding, it gives you a very
clean cut. You have to be able to swing it fairly accurately, though.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | wire braided hose |
yeah fingers are hell to get epoxy-ed on straight...
----- Original Message -----
> I've had good luck with a sharp axe. I'm not kidding, it gives you a very
> clean cut. You have to be able to swing it fairly accurately, though.
>
> Tedd McHenry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
That old story of kid's college expenses exceeding savings has claimed my
RV-6, and I am selling my beautiful airplane to move down (financially
speaking) to an RV-3. It is a slider, has an O-360 with inverted fuel and
oil, SFP fuel injection and electronic ignition, VFR instruments, Warnke
prop, and 350 hrs. Asking $65,000. Contact off list for pictures. Located
Houston.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Go-Jo-No-Lox on E.I. shaft? |
I'm finally ready to put the mag gear on my LightSpeed ignition
module and mount it on the engine. I made the mistake of looking in
my Lycoming overhaul manual to see if they mentioned any interesting
notes. I see that they specify the use of "Go-No-Jo-Lox" compound or
equivalent between the tapered section of the shaft and the mag gear.
Does anyone know what the heck is so special about this stuff? I
figured on using a bit of Never-Seize, or is that a bad idea for some
reason I can't fathom?
Sure, I'm probably being a bit anal, but I don't want anything funny
happening to my mag gear or E.I. unit.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: VHF Antenna |
I put mine VHF right under the front seat, through the overlap down the
center on the fues bottom. That way I didn't need another doubler. I ran my
coax, bundeled with the M/B boat antena and transponder ant coax) through
the center cutout in the wing carry through, then along the forward bottom
of the carry through, then under the fuel valve into the left gear box to
the radio.
N89GM, QB 8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Yeager
Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Thomas Yeager"
I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to
install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount
it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim |
I have the electrical elevator and aileron. I like it ok, though the
elevator trim is a tad sensitive at full speed. Never seen the manual...
I did the QB 8 too, N89GM. Be happy to send my build log if you want.
gvm(at)cableone.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LDean97765(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim
--> RV8-List message posted by: LDean97765(at)aol.com
I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual
elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both but
I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback.
Thank you ,
Bob Dean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: VHF Antenna |
what wing tip antenna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Anyone have info (web addys) of any manufacts for heated pitots?
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas-finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nutplates to wing spar |
Hey guys,
I have been fretting over the first step on wings. The plan says to rivet
the nut plates (for the tank skins attachment) for #8 screws to the spar
flange, dimple a scrap of .032 for a #8 screw and then countersink the flange
until scrap fits. Working with another piece of .062 aluminum angle I have
done some practise countersinks and found that I need to burrow in until the
bottom of the countersink has created a 5/16" whole before the dimpled .032
will sit flush. This seems an awfully big whole to make in the spar flange.
Am I over looking something obvious? Is this what others have done?
Appreciate your input.
Dennis Thomas
RV 9-A 90164
Wings, or will be soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim |
Go with the electric elevator AND aileron trim, because the coolie hat on the
stick is way cool !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Nutplates to wing spar |
Dennis,
It does seem like a lot to remove, but that's the only way to get the #8
dimple to sit flush. However, I did measure a few of my counterinks and
they were just slightly over 3/16" diameter at the small radius, but no
more than 7/32". It can be tough to keep good alignment with your
countersink, did you use a good guide for the pilot? I used a #8
nutplate that I drilled the threads out of and then cleco'd it onto the
spar at both ears to keep it steady. This makes an excellent guide for
the pilot on your countersink.
Todd Houg
Finally back to it on the wings - with new updates to my website -
http://www.toddhoug.com
-----Original Message-----
From: DThomas773(at)aol.com [SMTP:DThomas773(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Nutplates to wing spar
Hey guys,
I have been fretting over the first step on wings. The plan says to
rivet
the nut plates (for the tank skins attachment) for #8 screws to the spar
flange, dimple a scrap of .032 for a #8 screw and then countersink the
flange
until scrap fits. Working with another piece of .062 aluminum angle I
have
done some practise countersinks and found that I need to burrow in until
the
bottom of the countersink has created a 5/16" whole before the dimpled
.032
will sit flush. This seems an awfully big whole to make in the spar
flange.
Am I over looking something obvious? Is this what others have done?
Appreciate your input.
Dennis Thomas
RV 9-A 90164
Wings, or will be soon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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gretz aero" <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: heated pitot |
Try Gretz Aero at http://www.gretzaero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: heated pitot
>
> Anyone have info (web addys) of any manufacts for heated pitots?
> Thanks, Bob in Arkansas-finishing wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey Mike, looking for Mike that had the RV-8 Emp for sale. last name is
Sices I think. Thanks, Craig C
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nutplates to wing spar |
It may be a sickening feeling but the hole will enlarge. Reason being that
the 0.063 is too thin for a #8 screw countersink. But obviously there is no
choice.
Drill a #19 bit hole in a block of wood along with the 2 rivet holes
matching the platenut on either side. Clecoe the block of wood through the
rivet holes and then secure it with some quick release clamps. Take the
clecoes out and then drill the countersink. This will prevent the
countersink from woobling but the hole will still elongate somewhat.
See you in 2 hours.
Good luck
Steve
RV-7A
>From: Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Nutplates to wing spar
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:51:24 -0600
>
>
>Dennis,
>
>It does seem like a lot to remove, but that's the only way to get the #8
>dimple to sit flush. However, I did measure a few of my counterinks and
>they were just slightly over 3/16" diameter at the small radius, but no
>more than 7/32". It can be tough to keep good alignment with your
>countersink, did you use a good guide for the pilot? I used a #8
>nutplate that I drilled the threads out of and then cleco'd it onto the
>spar at both ears to keep it steady. This makes an excellent guide for
>the pilot on your countersink.
>
> Todd Houg
> Finally back to it on the wings - with new updates to my website -
>http://www.toddhoug.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: DThomas773(at)aol.com [SMTP:DThomas773(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 8:22 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Nutplates to wing spar
>
>
>Hey guys,
>I have been fretting over the first step on wings. The plan says to
>rivet
>the nut plates (for the tank skins attachment) for #8 screws to the spar
>
>flange, dimple a scrap of .032 for a #8 screw and then countersink the
>flange
>until scrap fits. Working with another piece of .062 aluminum angle I
>have
>done some practise countersinks and found that I need to burrow in until
>the
>bottom of the countersink has created a 5/16" whole before the dimpled
>.032
>will sit flush. This seems an awfully big whole to make in the spar
>flange.
>Am I over looking something obvious? Is this what others have done?
>Appreciate your input.
>Dennis Thomas
>RV 9-A 90164
>Wings, or will be soon
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>eJ8+IhkDAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy
>b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYAsAEAAAEAAAAQAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL
>AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAASQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9u
>aWNzLmNvbQBTTVRQAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAA
>AB4AAzABAAAAFgAAAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAAMAFQwBAAAAAwD+DwYAAAAeAAEw
>AQAAABgAAAAncnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tJwACAQswAQAAABsAAABTTVRQOlJWLUxJU1RA
>TUFUUk9OSUNTLkNPTQAAAwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAB4A9l8BAAAAFgAAAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9u
>aWNzLmNvbQAAAAIB918BAAAASQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0
>cm9uaWNzLmNvbQBTTVRQAHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAAADAP1fAQAAAAMA/18AAAAA
>AgH2DwEAAAAEAAAAAAAAAplcAQSAAQAkAAAAUkU6IFJWLUxpc3Q6IE51dHBsYXRlcyB0byB3aW5n
>IHNwYXIAKgwBBYADAA4AAADSBwEAHgAVADMAGAADAFsBASCAAwAOAAAA0gcBAB4AFQAtAAMAAwBA
>AQEJgAEAIQAAAEZFNjkzNjA4QzYxNUQ2MTFCQjNEMDBDMDk1RUMxNzlCAC0HAQOQBgBUCgAAIQAA
>AAsAAgABAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYAAAAAAAsAKQAAAAAAAwAuAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAEAAOQAgWqiN
>CqrBAR4AcAABAAAAJAAAAFJFOiBSVi1MaXN0OiBOdXRwbGF0ZXMgdG8gd2luZyBzcGFyAAIBcQAB
>AAAAFgAAAAHBqgqNqAg2af8VxhHWuz0AwJXsF5sAAB4AHgwBAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEA
>AAAUAAAAdGhvdWdAYXR0Z2xvYmFsLm5ldAADAAYQBRHnpgMABxDwCAAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAAREVO
>TklTLElURE9FU1NFRU1MSUtFQUxPVFRPUkVNT1ZFLEJVVFRIQVRTVEhFT05MWVdBWVRPR0VUVEhF
>IzhESU1QTEVUT1NJVEZMVVNISE9XRVZFUixJRElETUVBU1VSRUFGRQAAAAACAQkQAQAAADAHAAAs
>BwAAmA0AAExaRnVubUOpPwAKAQMB9wKkA+MCAGNowQrAc2V0MCAHEwKDQwBQDuZwcnEyD+Z9EwqA
>CMggOwlvMjU1SwKACoF2CJB3awuAZNo0DGBjAFALA2MAQQtgQG5nMTAzMwumIOZECfADAHMsCqIK
>hAqAMkkFQGRvB5EPoGVtgCBsaWtlIGEY4GJvBUB0byAJcARgdmBlLCBidRmBD3B0HicEIBqQGSAC
>IGx5IGx3YRtwGaFnD7Aa8yP+OBhAB3ALUBkgGaEAkAVAAmYKQHNoLiBIb1R3ZRoQchowSRyhZLIg
>B4BhcwhwGSJmB9Hcb2Ye4BtwBaB1AjAGcfxuawQgAHAe0BsBG3EEkC0ZIGodsAVAcxjwZ2gOdBth
>GgEFwDMvMTZ6IhyhYQeAIHEZMBwkc+UAwGwDIHJhHLAdsBo0Pm4ZsARgH0EakQOgNy9YMzIiHeAY
>IWMDkWKdHQJ1IlAZkhkQZXAb8O5vBHAZMCIxbgeAAjAbgPsdYCegeQhhICYAkCCwGjA7HrIpgSAd
>sBkiKENndd8ewBkgAhAFwBsCcAMQGXDePx6BKyEocRxybhpgC1H/IHAagx6CBRAkkC1hGwIakP8J
>cCTQBCAIYAVAH9Eg9QOg9mMc8AWgJx7QHWECIRmw/yQjCrIj8QbgKVEfAA+QJ7eXHWEh8C/ReR3g
>VGgEAB0e4GEZECDSMyB4Y2W/LxEpASvfGXECICl/LhdqfwyCNKAEcB7QHgAngDkZRtcLgCSBG3Bi
>ANBrGZIxo68a8wPwFgAEIC0pJG4H0Xh1cGQuMTNjIAEeIGIfHVEZID0AImAuADovL1p3P6AuGaA5
>4GgncS6dBaBtOLsLAxjwMzYBQN8VoAFAETAZcAWQdBB0IyDrPPBDYk8FEGc7EgXQB5D8c2EcAENj
>F2ZCdEJBCxPBQnZpLTE0NAFAGPD4MTgwAUAM0EcDOuEDYTo6DINiFtE0sANxczcwNzNAYQbwQGIg
>WyBTTVRQOkkvbV3fF2U5oAZgAjBIl1cJgD1wqnM90HkaMEoAcHUKwFkbcDMwGjAB0DARYDjkOjIR
>YFBNS+c5wEiXWHJ2LRjwIfBAAMB0MwNgAwBjc0BpTFF1YoZqQqFIl1JWLUxQ8f46B7At9TNjPKIy
>U0UPRhrvQcQLthdzQ2A+U4Ye4URjzSygbzQxHtBieVQASr/tQJtIIVE2MHkXRh6QD3DfGhAnITDx
>A1APsHRVAiKz/xsCRtAPkDQTKCA3cTyjHeD/NKEskRXhGJAboDNjBRAaEL8FQRdzGwIt4WCyPfIo
>LDZ/AZAgsBiQFLEg0QJAANBo/SjiKSwjHIEE8QfQM2MyJ38XZB2QFfEaIRy1GUAE8WH7X7Ef4C4W
>MBFgLDItk2Wz/zCJKehe1GdTYeUgUQMRaFT1RtB0YEJXBbAUsVUgKTN/AHAy8SLRLLAFkBshaMI2
>cxFgB0B1bQuAcAAg4Wf/HPFdRRdkGFA9cBiQA3Askf8kwEKwBAAZICnZINQCECBQvyESLpM9cC8y
>GbAaUHIDYP8H4AuAKxBskxsCF2Qy4Rmg/xjQH9EbAmq6D3AEIGXBLjH1LXI1IxN3QCAc8ScwLDH/
>JeIZIBy0HtBo4xdkA/AkkQ8dWTSkGKI1Q2F3ZnX/O0MiQHmlPjI1EXWSMidnRHtgURdkQRjQHpAi
>swkAb29t43HyGpBeU2IUcAhgc/8tAB6AGuI00XmwI/FuowQg711jcaKDYYDVcBEwBZAHMPcuQSmD
>C4BwGmA4pRb0NKGHSVIXZFOQIDktQYkA7jAjIBTwF3NXPLIaMAWxP3vzJzFx8AIgQK4KgF8t/j2M
>r42/js+P35AAjCdgYG+Rvj0AYIJYxkUAwAMRRv8FsHBBRPWRdDSzLDFwQX0i/1nAAIAlwR7QKPFf
>MDXAG7H/L7AndBsRCFACMAUQGlGDIH8GMR/QkRpY9QbQKiFgUVn9CGAnJJE9cCLCGKE7cRcQ9yPC
>L/Ij0W4ikW6zLDFAlf+RdB/RHLCGIQVAJNAeQXKB+15TPERNUUaT9FGwjC+iL0+jP6RPkG+RciEh
>B7BFdlemoZEaQnVhKzFTxCD+VSsxKYM+kRpAqBMsURmwvxRyGvNUY1knoQmRsVBAIPUZoVMPcWWo
>sa0TLKCswv9zhQMQB5EpM26kmcuhL7GPb7Kfs6+lb5lpUjXAeONJ3m6dQhqwmJGRHVBZ0UQ2D6ix
>UL9AaJF3VU4vUwBVQlNDUklCRfeosT85uhsvHyA+sAUDt4//rK28v73HrfStIpEdqAzA7/e9x6m0
>ucIvuZWRHQZgCsD/D2CTkBYAC4CtUcUPvdfIs++RHQcQD2BhoXPEwsTfvanPyMLMspEdWPNTcIYx
>RtDeY8l/vbjHT5GzT69nzOP/0V+91hjAk8G5ws9umAvRP/+9uAWgmCiRHaAXzPTZT73W/7CP4A/h
>H+IvtM/j/4u7EfECAOZwAwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAAAAMAgBD/////QAAHMMCLQqoJqsEBQAAIMMCL
>QqoJqsEBCwAAgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAA4UAAAAAAAADAAKACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAA
>RgAAAAAQhQAAAAAAAAMABYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFKFAAC3DQAAAwAJgAggBgAAAAAA
>wAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAAeABOACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAABUhQAAAQAAAAQAAAA4
>LjAACwAXgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAADoUAAAAAAAADABiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAA
>AAARhQAAAAAAAAMAGoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiFAAAAAAAAHgApgAggBgAAAAAAwAAA
>AAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AKoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAA
>AQAAAAAAAAAeACuACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA9AAEAAAAF
>AAAAUkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAAL4M
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sender |
What are you guys using the attach the fuel tank sending unit to the tank
access cover? #8 screws and platenuts? Where do the platenuts go? On the
access cover or the fuel sender unit?
The plans say to follow the instructions with the fuel sending unit but the
only papers I have describe the bending of the floater.
As well wrt the measurements of bending the floater. Are the dimensions for
the RV-8 the same as the RV-7?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
Kingston, Ont
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry rush" <k9hxt(at)msn.com> |
Fellas,
I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport, Avon,IN and a friend
of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him fits. I only have a couple
hrs of tail dragger time so I can not be of much help to him. His plane has been
converted to 150 hp for starters. His probem is when he tries to taxiat any
speed above very very slow it wants to ground loop. Same thing happens
during takeoff before the rudder takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail
draggers and is current too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because
he is getting afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there
something about the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might
contribute to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack enough....???...Anyone
had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
Wanting to help a friend,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
This does not make any sense. My Mazda rotary powered RV-3 is a pussycat to handle,
taxi, T.O. and landing. 150 Hp and engine weight close to a O-320.
Here's a couple of ideas:
1) Do a weight and balance (yes, weight the airplane as is now). Is the battery
all the way out in the tail?
2) check the brakes for binding (or possibly for bad wheel bearings).
Finn
larry rush wrote:
>
> Fellas,
> I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport, Avon,IN and a friend
of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him fits. I only have a couple
hrs of tail dragger time so I can not be of much help to him. His plane has
been converted to 150 hp for starters. His probem is when he tries to taxiat
any speed above very very slow it wants to ground loop. Same thing happens
during takeoff before the rudder takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail
draggers and is current too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because
he is getting afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there
something about the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might
contribute to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
>
> Wanting to help a friend,
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
starters. His probem is when he tries to taxiat any speed above
very very slow it wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during
takeoff before the rudder takes effect.
--------------------------------
Has anyone done anything "creative" with the landing gear? In other words,
is the gear stock, or has it been modified with a different geometry? How
about the wheel alignment? What's the wear like on the tires- that might be
the first clue of bad alignment. Good luck.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 92 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
I had a 160hp RV-3 and flew it about 125 hours in 7 months. It was very well
behaved. My tailwheel experience before the RV-3 consisted of about 160 hours
(within 18 months immediatly preceding the RV-3) of mostly Champ time with a
little Cub, Super Cub, and Citabria time thrown in.
Just a stab in the dark here, but I'm wondering if there's a gear alignment
problem. Also a long shot, but maybe a little too much air pressure in the
mains? Mine was a little more skittish the higher the air pressure.
Good luck. Don't let him sell that plane. They're GREEAAAT!!!
RV-3's forever!
Rod Woodard
RV-3 N99RV sold
RV-3 #11339 WIP (work in progress)
In a message dated 1/30/02 9:26:46 PM Mountain Standard Time, k9hxt(at)msn.com
writes:
> His probem is when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very <
> /EM>slow it wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before
> the rudder takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is
> current too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is
> getting afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there
> something about the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that
> might contribute to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were
> not slack enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3
> ??| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
In a message dated 1/30/2002 8:26:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, k9hxt(at)msn.com
writes:
>
> Fellas,
> I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport, Avon,IN and
> a friend of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him fits. I
> only have a couple hrs of tail dragger time so I can not be of much help to
> him. His plane has been converted to 150 hp for starters. His probem is
> when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very slow it
> wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before the rudder
> takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is current
> too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is getting
> afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there something about
> the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might contribute
> to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
> enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
>
> Wanting to help a friend,
>
That guy was very close, try some lighter springs, and a little slack in the
chain (from the rudder to the tail wheel) this will allow more rudder and
brake control and make the plane handle a little easier.
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate air for fuel injection |
Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions about the hole in my panel.
Based on the volume of responses, I think I'm not the first to do something
like this - a small comfort! I'll try a few things and report back to the
list.
The mechanic at the local FBO stopped by for a visit today and suggested
something I'd never heard of - an alternate air source for the air intake on
my injected IO 360. This was the first I'd ever heard of this. He said
some planes have holes in the cowling or in the intake tubes to provide an
alternate source should the primary source become clogged. I showed him the
snorkel that I'm planning on using (my engine has the intake on the lower
front and no snout on the cowl) and he said a spring door on the snorkel
would work fine. Has anyone else done this? Thoughts?
I have to admit my first reaction was negative. Unlike a narrow throated
carb, I can't see how the 4 by 6 inch opening to the snorkel could become
completely clogged by even a large bird. The air filter should keep out
hummingbirds and other small debris from clogging the lower end of the
snorkel. Even a spring door on the snorkel wouldn't protect against a clog
near the narrow bottom part of the snorkel.
As always, thanks in advance for your help.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Template for F802A |
Hello,
That drawing was on the earlier versions of the RV8. The holes George
refers to in the video should already be predrilled in your 802a and
802b. Good luck, they're a pain.
Vince Himsl
RV8 SB Canoe
Moscow, ID USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of colin jordan
Subject: RV-List: Template for F802A
Greetings to all on the list.
I am building an 8 and am presently working on the Landing Gear Boxes.
On Orndorf's Video he shows a template for drilling the holes in the
F802A&B but I have no idea where to find this template !
It's not in my plans and Vans' does not have any knowledge of it.
Can any one help ?Perhaps if some one has it they could send it to me at
cjordan(at)silk.net
Also I am in the market for an Inverted oil system if any one has one
for sale.
Thanks , from frozen Kelowna B.C.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Larry,
tell your friend to he should try measuring the alignment of the mains. if
they are toed out when they are loaded the aircraft will act as you
describe.
A slight amount of toe-in is desirable.
If the ground loop tendency is always to either the right or the left. (same
direction) check for tight brake or tight bearings.
The rudder chains should be loose rather than tight
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
> Here's a couple of ideas:
> 1) Do a weight and balance (yes, weight the airplane as is now). Is the
battery all the way out in the tail?
>
> 2) check the brakes for binding (or possibly for bad wheel bearings).
>
> Finn
>
> larry rush wrote:
>
> >
> > Fellas,
> > I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport, Avon,IN
and a friend of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him fits.
when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very slow it
wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before the rudder
takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is current
too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is getting
afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there something about
the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might contribute
to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
> >
> > Wanting to help a friend,
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
I would stick with the manual aileron trim and for sure use electric
elevator trim The aileron trim really does not do much at all. it
simply puts spring tension on the pushrods, the one van supplies works
perfect for this application.
Shane Slc
R-V6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate air for fuel injection |
BlankParker, My IO-360 (bendix) has an alternate air door just in front
of the throat to the servo and it was used once when a bird hit dead
center into the intake on takeoff and stopped the engine for a moment.
There was quite a mess of feathers and guts to clean out but i wouldn't
be without the alternate door. Check out some certified aircraft like
Twin Comanche's or Mooney's, you could steal a door or copy the design.
Dennis and Fran, N564DF race#53 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender |
Steve,
I'm building a -6A, but if you're using the S/W sending units they will be
the same. I put #8 platenuts in the inside of the cover plate, then
attached the sending unit with its gasket using aviation Permatex and #8
roundhead screws (same kind as for attaching the cover plate to the tank
rib. It's kind of neat that the holes are drilled in such a way that the
sending units can only go on one way. Hope this helps.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
Wings (seems like forever)
>From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com, RV-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender
>Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:20:41 -0500
>
>
>What are you guys using the attach the fuel tank sending unit to the tank
>access cover? #8 screws and platenuts? Where do the platenuts go? On the
>access cover or the fuel sender unit?
>
>The plans say to follow the instructions with the fuel sending unit but the
>only papers I have describe the bending of the floater.
>
>As well wrt the measurements of bending the floater. Are the dimensions for
>the RV-8 the same as the RV-7?
>
>Thankx
>Steve
>RV-7A
>Kingston, Ont
>
>
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for fuel injection |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:12:48 AM
Is this door spring loaded to open due to suction, or do you have it
manually actuated. Can you give aprox dimensions for the door?
Thanks
Eric
"flamini2" (at)matronics.com on 01/31/2002 07:18:36 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Alternate air for fuel injection
BlankParker, My IO-360 (bendix) has an alternate air door just in front
of the throat to the servo and it was used once when a bird hit dead
center into the intake on takeoff and stopped the engine for a moment.
There was quite a mess of feathers and guts to clean out but i wouldn't
be without the alternate door. Check out some certified aircraft like
Twin Comanche's or Mooney's, you could steal a door or copy the design.
Dennis and Fran, N564DF race#53 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers recommended
using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube on hand
and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four gaskets have
deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
>
> I'm building a -6A, but if you're using the S/W sending units they will
> be the same. I put #8 platenuts in the inside of the cover plate,
> then attached the sending unit with its gasket using aviation Permatex
> and #8 roundhead screws (same kind as for attaching the cover plate to
> the tank rib. It's kind of neat that the holes are drilled in such a
> way that the sending units can only go on one way. Hope this helps.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> Wings (seems like forever)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
I've got my senders on the back of the tanks for the flop tube option and
really don't ever want to have to fix a leak there. Are you talking about
coating both sides of the rubber gasket with pro seal or just using pro seal
and no gasket?
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
>
> On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
>
> A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers recommended
> using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube on hand
> and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
>
> I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four gaskets have
> deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
>
> I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
>
>
> >
> > I'm building a -6A, but if you're using the S/W sending units they will
> > be the same. I put #8 platenuts in the inside of the cover plate,
> > then attached the sending unit with its gasket using aviation Permatex
> > and #8 roundhead screws (same kind as for attaching the cover plate to
> > the tank rib. It's kind of neat that the holes are drilled in such a
> > way that the sending units can only go on one way. Hope this helps.
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > Wings (seems like forever)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Questions |
What's "too low" in the way of compression on a Lycoming opposed engine?
What different can I expect between a cold compression measurement versus a
hot one?
What size crankcase breather line are y'all using? Material? Length?
Thanks
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
Rob,
I'm at that point now, do you mean no cork or rubber gaskets and just
proseal.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Painting inside of wheel pants and fairings |
Is there any need to prime and paint the inside of the fiberglass wheel
pants and fairings and if so, what paint do you recommend?
Don Mack www.dmack.net don(at)dmack.net
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Safety wire for senders |
Can someone please tell me how to safety wire Van's oil and fuel pressure
senders, I have them mounted on Van's manifold. Would not be a pretty sight
if one of them unscrewed during flight.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for fuel injection |
In my old T-210 the alternate air door was hinged at the top and held
closed by two tiny magnets that were epoxied on.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate air for fuel injection
>
>
> Is this door spring loaded to open due to suction, or do you have it
> manually actuated. Can you give aprox dimensions for the door?
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric
>
>
> "flamini2" (at)matronics.com on 01/31/2002 07:18:36 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To:
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate air for fuel injection
>
>
> BlankParker, My IO-360 (bendix) has an alternate air door just in front
> of the throat to the servo and it was used once when a bird hit dead
> center into the intake on takeoff and stopped the engine for a moment.
> There was quite a mess of feathers and guts to clean out but i wouldn't
> be without the alternate door. Check out some certified aircraft like
> Twin Comanche's or Mooney's, you could steal a door or copy the design.
> Dennis and Fran, N564DF race#53 Chicago
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Prosealed gaskets throughout.
Rob.
>
> I've got my senders on the back of the tanks for the flop tube option
> and really don't ever want to have to fix a leak there. Are you talking
> about coating both sides of the rubber gasket with pro seal or just
> using pro seal and no gasket?
>
> Neil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
>
>
>>
>> On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
>>
>> A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers recommended
>> using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube on
>> hand and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
>>
>> I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four gaskets
>> have deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
>>
>> I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
>>
>> Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire for senders |
Hello Larry,
If the sending units you speak of are remote mounted on the firewall. If the
threads have been treated with thread lube or the sealant of choice and are
screwed in tight (as per spec.) enough to seal against leakage. They should
not need to be safety wired.
The primary reason for remote mounting is to eliminate the engine vibration
the could be damaging to their physical structure which could potentially
end in catastrophic leaks.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hawkins" <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: RV-List: Safety wire for senders
>
> Can someone please tell me how to safety wire Van's oil and fuel pressure
> senders, I have them mounted on Van's manifold. Would not be a pretty
sight
> if one of them unscrewed during flight.
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, (reserved) finishing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
should you ever want to remove the senders you will want to be able to
destroy the gaskets to remove them rather than destroying the tank and
senders.
----- Original Message -----
From: racker(at)rmci.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
Prosealed gaskets throughout.
Rob.
>
> I've got my senders on the back of the tanks for the flop tube
option
> and really don't ever want to have to fix a leak there. Are you
talking
> about coating both sides of the rubber gasket with pro seal or just
> using pro seal and no gasket?
>
> Neil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
>
>
>>
>> On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
>>
>> A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers
recommended
>> using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube
on
>> hand and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
>>
>> I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four
gaskets
>> have deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
>>
>> I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
>>
>> Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
>>
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
----- Original Message -----
From: racker(at)rmci.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
I carried my cork gaskets to my local Rubber & Gasket shop and had them make me
some rubber gaskets. I used "TiteSeal" from Aircraft Spruce to seal them. So
far no problems at all. I had a Tech councilor tell me "If you use Proseal you'll
never get them apart if need be"! He knows cause he tore up a tank end rib
trying to get off an access plate that had been Prosealed.
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers recommended
using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube on hand
and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four gaskets have
deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
That's what I did (just proseal) and it's still holding after 280 hrs.
Gary
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Rob,
> I'm at that point now, do you mean no cork or rubber gaskets and just
> proseal.
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Questions |
>
>
>What's "too low" in the way of compression on a Lycoming opposed engine?
>
Anytime any of the reading get below 60 psi there is a problem that needs to
be looked at. The other is the difference in the readings from cylinder to
cylinder. 10 to an absolute max of 15 psi but be careful. If all cylinders
are in the 70's except one and its down in the low 60's, even though its
within 10 psi of the others you will need to check out what's going on.
>What different can I expect between a cold compression measurement versus a
>hot one?
>
Lots of people will check the pressures with a cold engine. If they find
the pressures good then they will not go any further. if they find a
cylinder that doesn't pass then they will warm up the engine and try again.
You Should always check the engine warm as this is the way the engine will
be operating.
>What size crankcase breather line are y'all using? Material? Length?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
Tommy Walker wrote:
> I had a Tech councilor tell me "If you> use Proseal you'll never get them apart
if need be"! He knows cause he t> ore up a tank end rib trying to get off
an access plate that had been Pro> sealed.
I must kindly disagree with the above statement. It is not hard to get the
access plate off the tank if prosealed in place. A sharpened putty knife slid
between the tank and plate and it pops right off. The worst part is cleaning
the old proseal off the end rib, not hard, but time consuming. Proper tools
and techniques make a job easy to do, while the wrong tools and techniques
can turn a simple job into a nightmare. I believe the above mentioned tech
councilor falls in the latter category.
Also someone mentioned using a rubber gasket. This is ok if the rubber has
been tested compatible with the fuel he plans on using (100ll, Mogas,
E85....)
Also there was a mention of not using fuel-lube with cork gaskets. Twas not
the fuel-lube's fault the gasket dried up and split. The gasket dried up and
split because of lack of fuel in the tank. Old whiskey barrels don't leak if
you keep them full, empty the barrel and let it sit for a couple of years and
then fill it again. It will leak. Same problem with the cork gasket.
Just had to straiten out some misleading posts.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
True. That's the reason to use proseal instead of JB Weld .
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> should you ever want to remove the senders you will want to be able to
> destroy the gaskets to remove them rather than destroying the tank and
> senders.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Hmmm. Rubber gaskets is not a bad idea. Titeseal = fuel lube. Must not
attack rubber the same way it does cork.
Several listers (Laird if I remember correcty...Laird?) have pulled off
their senders after prosealing with no problems, which is why I was
thinking of using it.
Stop me before I make a (another...) mistake .
Rob Acker (RV-6).
> I carried my cork gaskets to my local Rubber & Gasket shop and had them
> m= ake me some rubber gaskets. I used "TiteSeal" from Aircraft Spruce
> to sea= l them. So far no problems at all. I had a Tech councilor tell
> me "If you> use Proseal you'll never get them apart if need be"! He knows cause
he
> t> ore up a tank end rib trying to get off an access plate that had been
> Pro= sealed.
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A Finishing
> Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for fuel injection |
LISTEN TO YOUR MECHANIC.
Alternate air is REQUIRED for certified. Do you think just because you have
an experimental sign that the physical requirements change?
There are many more things that can plug your air intake besides a bird.
Grass clippings from mowing a grass strip, sand or loose dirt, and then
there is what is called impact ice when you fly thru snow.
Check a fuel injected Mooney for a good example and the alternate air door
should be behind the filter not in front.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate air for fuel injection
Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions about the hole in my panel.
Based on the volume of responses, I think I'm not the first to do something
like this - a small comfort! I'll try a few things and report back to the
list.
The mechanic at the local FBO stopped by for a visit today and suggested
something I'd never heard of - an alternate air source for the air intake on
my injected IO 360. This was the first I'd ever heard of this. He said
some planes have holes in the cowling or in the intake tubes to provide an
alternate source should the primary source become clogged. I showed him the
snorkel that I'm planning on using (my engine has the intake on the lower
front and no snout on the cowl) and he said a spring door on the snorkel
would work fine. Has anyone else done this? Thoughts?
I have to admit my first reaction was negative. Unlike a narrow throated
carb, I can't see how the 4 by 6 inch opening to the snorkel could become
completely clogged by even a large bird. The air filter should keep out
hummingbirds and other small debris from clogging the lower end of the
snorkel. Even a spring door on the snorkel wouldn't protect against a clog
near the narrow bottom part of the snorkel.
As always, thanks in advance for your help.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for fuel injection |
LISTEN TO YOUR MECHANIC.
Alternate air is REQUIRED for certified. Do you think just because you have
an experimental sign that the physical requirements change?
There are many more things that can plug your air intake besides a bird.
Grass clippings from mowing a grass strip, sand or loose dirt, and then
there is what is called impact ice when you fly thru snow.
Check a fuel injected Mooney for a good example and the alternate air door
should be behind the filter not in front.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate air for fuel injection
Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions about the hole in my panel.
Based on the volume of responses, I think I'm not the first to do something
like this - a small comfort! I'll try a few things and report back to the
list.
The mechanic at the local FBO stopped by for a visit today and suggested
something I'd never heard of - an alternate air source for the air intake on
my injected IO 360. This was the first I'd ever heard of this. He said
some planes have holes in the cowling or in the intake tubes to provide an
alternate source should the primary source become clogged. I showed him the
snorkel that I'm planning on using (my engine has the intake on the lower
front and no snout on the cowl) and he said a spring door on the snorkel
would work fine. Has anyone else done this? Thoughts?
I have to admit my first reaction was negative. Unlike a narrow throated
carb, I can't see how the 4 by 6 inch opening to the snorkel could become
completely clogged by even a large bird. The air filter should keep out
hummingbirds and other small debris from clogging the lower end of the
snorkel. Even a spring door on the snorkel wouldn't protect against a clog
near the narrow bottom part of the snorkel.
As always, thanks in advance for your help.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another RV-8 flies! |
Another RV-8 flies!
Monday the 28th I received my paperwork from the FAA. They had inspected my
RV-8 the previous Thursday, but couldn't get me my paperwork until after the
weekend. Wouldn't you know we had the best weather anyone can remember in
January during that weekend! I bit the bullet and waited. After 3 years of
obsessively dedicated hard work, I wasn't going to risk anything by breaking
the rules.
The airplane flew hands off from the getgo. I felt as comfortable with the
airplane as if I had been flying it for years. It's like it was built
especially for me. Wait-it was built especially for me! Controls are light
and responsive, and man does she go fast. The first 3 landings were probably
the best I'll ever make. You have to love these airplanes. After confirming
that the airplane was controllable and that I could fly it, I spent 5 hours
(not all at once) exercising my new Aerosport IO360 B1B engine to try to seat
the rings properly. The only problem I experienced was with the constant
speed prop which, after sitting around for years waiting to fly, wanted to be
a bit ornery during the first hour. It settled down after a little flight
time.
Can't wait for the weekend.
Keith O'Dell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
"'rv6(at)ssc.net.au'",
"Vans (E-mail)""'RV-List Digest Server'"@matronics.com
Have you re-checked your grounding scheme.
Ground shift from ground loops can cause significant problems that seem
difficult to explain.
RV4 Wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Server'"@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Gauges
Chris and Susie,
I now know of about 8 RVs using Vans new gauges that have this problem, and
when I last checked with Vans they didn't seem to think there is a problem.
I've included them in this cc as well as the rest of the list, but at this
time I am reasonably convinced that they are selling a defective product, or
at least a product that doesn't perform as it should given the common
configurations and installations found on their aircraft. (IE these gauges
work great but they just can't be used around any transmitters)
I personally have tested my RV-6 with two different 'Vans' amp gauges, have
looked at it with a scope (Unfortuneately mine only reads up to 100mhz so I
can't really see what is making the noise) I have tried several Caps and
inductors to shield/absorb this as suggested by the very knowledgeable
electronics folks on this list, all to no avail. Mine tends to send the amp
gauge a different place everytime I transmit. And it does it on any radio.
Some of the other folks just seem get wild gyrations.
I have their MAP and it also fades lower during transmission, I don't have
their cht/egt as they weren't available.
At some time I hope that Vans will be good to their general reputation and
help us figure out what this problem is, as well as then providing a
reasonable remedy. It would seem their instrumentation is too sensitive.
One common denomiator type question I have for all the other folks on the
list with "this problem/these gauges" is are your comm antenna(s) top
mounted or bottom mounted? Mine are both on top. Maybe the folks who have
had success with these gauges have their antennas on the bottom???
Thanks
Wheeler
23841
RV-6 07/07/01 164hrs and flys like an obscene dream, smooth, silky and loads
of pure pleasure
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Electrical help
When I transmit on the radio the Vans amp gauge goes -40 and the manifold
guage goes full deflection also the cht and egt values change???
Any ideas???
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 flies! |
Keith,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
********
>From: RKOdell(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Another RV-8 flies!
>Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:12:54 EST
>
>
>Another RV-8 flies!
>
>Monday the 28th I received my paperwork from the FAA. They had inspected my
>RV-8 the previous Thursday, but couldn't get me my paperwork until after
>the
>weekend. Wouldn't you know we had the best weather anyone can remember in
>January during that weekend! I bit the bullet and waited. After 3 years of
>obsessively dedicated hard work, I wasn't going to risk anything by
>breaking
>the rules.
>
>The airplane flew hands off from the getgo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have an RV6A O-360 with a wood prop. I have tried to quantify the
benefit of going to a Sensenich 85" prop but it is very difficult due to
all the variables. So I am looking for someone with a 85" Sensenich prop
that would be willing to make a switch and help me do a couple of hours
of true comparison. I am willing to compensate accordingly. I live in
Ohio but willing to travel.
Best wishes
John Furey
John(at)fureychrysler.com
1-800-292-3324
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Go-Jo-No-Lox on E.I. shaft? |
>
>I'm finally ready to put the mag gear on my LightSpeed ignition
>module and mount it on the engine. I made the mistake of looking in
>my Lycoming overhaul manual to see if they mentioned any interesting
>notes. I see that they specify the use of "Go-No-Jo-Lox" compound or
>equivalent between the tapered section of the shaft and the mag gear.
>Does anyone know what the heck is so special about this stuff? I
>figured on using a bit of Never-Seize, or is that a bad idea for some
>reason I can't fathom?
>
>Sure, I'm probably being a bit anal, but I don't want anything funny
>happening to my mag gear or E.I. unit.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Well, to answer my own question, I finally found a reference in some
of the other Lycoming service documentation. It seems that the mag
gear can seize on the shaft, which makes it impossible to remove the
gear without damaging something. So they recommend putting some
"Go-No-Jo-Lox" compound or equivalent on the tapered portion of the
shaft to prevent it from seizing.
Now that I know what the stuff is supposed to do, I'll substitute
regular Never-Seize. Hopefully I'll never need to remove the gear
from the E.I. unit anyway.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Hi;
I have an O-320 RV-3 myself which has been flying 5 years plus but low total
hours. Two comments that may be relevant to your friends situation:
1. Early on, when operating on pavement, I experienced a main wheel "shimmy"
which seemed to be an dampened fore aft-movement of the wheels at certain
speeds - high end taxi speeds. I adjusted the tire pressure and have been
trouble free from this aspect since. No reoccurrence seen although most of
my flying has been from turf since. This was a surprising strong fore-aft
oscillation of the wheels that I encountered but there was no directional
affect that I recall and directional control was not an issue.
2. During taxi trials and the first few flights, I had the tail wheel chain
links set-up rather tight. This made the tailwheel steering effect quite
immediate and require a fine touch in managing directional control - the
aircraft was quite stable directionally when running in a three point
attitude but its reaction to rudder inputs was almost instantaneous and it
was easy to over control. I recall thinking this was rather twitchy
considering what I had read of RV-3s. After a few flights the chains
stretched a bit and developed some slack and directional control became much
easier. I then added a few more links making the chains even looser and
directional control became a non-issue.
The latter sounds closer to your friend's situation. My suggestion would be
to adjust or length the steering chains so they hang with some slack (in the
neutral rudder position); there is a normal tendency to make these nice and
snug so they "look OK" but this seems to be undesirable. The idea is that
rather coarse rudder inputs should be needed to move the tailwheel for
steering. This will be OK at low airspeeds (such as taxing or early in
takeoff roll) when rudder effects are small. As airspeed increases the
rudder will gain effectiveness and naturally become the primary steering
force.
I (and other RV-3 operators, I'm sure) would be interested to hear how he
makes out.
Jim Oke
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-????
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry rush" <k9hxt(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
> Fellas,
> I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport, Avon,IN
and a friend of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him fits.
I only have a couple hrs of tail dragger time so I can not be of much help
to him. His plane has been converted to 150 hp for starters. His probem is
when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very slow it
wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before the rudder
takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is current
too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is getting
afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there something about
the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might contribute
to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
>
> Wanting to help a friend,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I am ordering a heated pitot, and of course have the choice of 12 or 24.
Being a total electrical idiot, pros and cons of the above????
I read in the Jan. 2002 issue of Custom Planes an article that suggested to
go with 6 holers due to more avionics that could be plugged in and
gen./starters are cheaper along with using auto batts to jump. Thoughts????
Bob in Arkansas, wingin it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pitot follow-up question |
Suggestions as to the pitots that have build in static source??? Thanks
again, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 flies! |
Keith:
Congratulations. It's hard to believe, but from here
it gets even better every flight.
George
N888GK
--- RKOdell(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Another RV-8 flies!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Electrical geniuses a question.
I am using a Bendix/King KY 96A and Sigtronics SPA-400 intercom.
When I transmit, I can't hear a "sidetone" or my own voice while talking.
I can hear all incoming calls,
the intercom works properly,
others hear my transmittons OK, etc.
Any ideas what I might have done wrong?
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | RV-8 jig available |
Posting this for a friend. Contact him directly (str(at)us.ibm.com) if you
are interested. This is probably one of the straitest jigs you will find.
One more day if gear tower riveting, and we flip the fuselage over!!!
Steve Allison
The time has come to say goodbye to a very straight, level and dry RV8
fuselage jig. It has served me well in Morgan Hill, CA (San Francisco Bay
Area). It's put together with screws, making it convenient to take apart
for easy transportation to your shop. The price is right (free) but the
time is limited as I need the space. Going, Going, ....
Sam Ray
str(at)us.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim tab Question |
anyone know how many degrees up and down travel there should be on a 7A trim
tab. Or where I might find that info.
Thanks ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trim tab Question |
Hmmm, just been wondering about the same thing for an -8A...........
Walt Shipley RV8A Engines finally runnin'
----------
> From: Kdh347(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: trim tab Question
> Date: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:54 PM
>
>
> anyone know how many degrees up and down travel there should be on a 7A
trim
> tab. Or where I might find that info.
> Thanks
ken
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mimimum Temperature for Varaprime application |
Does anyone know of the minimum temperature for Varaprime application?
Using spray gun, not aerosol. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Jim,
Afraid that I am going to have to disagree with you here.
Toe in on tail draggers is poison. The alignment should be neutral with the
aircraft sitting in the 3 point attitude or if not quite neutral, just
slightly toed out. Some slack in the tailwheel steering is also desirable.
Bill, RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
> Larry,
> tell your friend to he should try measuring the alignment of the mains. if
> they are toed out when they are loaded the aircraft will act as you
> describe.
> A slight amount of toe-in is desirable.
> If the ground loop tendency is always to either the right or the left.
(same
> direction) check for tight brake or tight bearings.
> The rudder chains should be loose rather than tight
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
>
> > Here's a couple of ideas:
> > 1) Do a weight and balance (yes, weight the airplane as is now). Is the
> battery all the way out in the tail?
> >
> > 2) check the brakes for binding (or possibly for bad wheel bearings).
> >
> > Finn
> >
> > larry rush wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Fellas,
> > > I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport,
Avon,IN
> and a friend of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him
fits.
> when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very slow it
> wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before the rudder
> takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is current
> too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is getting
> afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there something
about
> the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might contribute
> to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
> enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3 ??
> > >
> > > Wanting to help a friend,
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------
> > Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> > Only $9.95 per month!
> > http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
>
> Tommy Walker wrote:
>
> > I had a Tech councilor tell me "If you> > use Proseal you'll never get them
apart if need be"! He knows cause he
t> > ore up a tank end rib trying to get off an access plate that had been
Pro> > sealed.
Proper tools
> and techniques make a job easy to do, while the wrong tools and techniques
> can turn a simple job into a nightmare. I believe the above mentioned tech
> councilor falls in the latter category.
Gary Zilik
I must second Gary here.A seep was discovered in Randy Lervold's left tank
(RV-8)
after we had Pro-Sealed the covers in place. A stiff back razor blade, some
finesse,
a little patience, and we were soon inside. Truely not a big deal.
Randy Griffin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Varaprime Temperature? |
Does anyone know the minimum temp for varaprime application?
Thanks.......... Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mimimum Temperature for Varaprime application |
Bob:
Being a Cheesehead in Northeast Wisconsin, I have sprayed my share if
Variprime in the winter months. I sprayed in my garage and then took the
parts back downstairs to dry. No ill effects. Just a slight smell untill
it flash dried. Not offensive enough to get the wife mad at me.
As a rule, I would only spray when the temp was at least 20 degrees.
Otherwise it just wasn't fun.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mimimum Temperature for Varaprime application
>
> Does anyone know of the minimum temperature for Varaprime application?
> Using spray gun, not aerosol. Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 flies! |
Keith,
Congraulations. I hope to be there someday.
Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another RV-8 flies!
>
> Keith:
>
> Congratulations. It's hard to believe, but from here
> it gets even better every flight.
>
> George
> N888GK
>
> --- RKOdell(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Another RV-8 flies!
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
It is not hard to get the
access plate off the tank if prosealed in place. A sharpened putty knife
slid
between the tank and plate and it pops right off.
> Gary Zilik
Does it help to warm it up with a heat gun first? I have to remove my
access plates to add the anti-rotation bracket to both tanks. I've been
putting it off for two years, but need to do it soon as I hope to be in
the air in a couple of months. I used proseal and the cork gaskets on
the access covers, and Titeseal on the senders.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
Starting engine baffles (what a poor set of instructions!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for fuel injection |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
>
> In my old T-210 the alternate air door was hinged at the top and held
> closed by two tiny magnets that were epoxied on.
What timing. I am assembling the air box now as we speak. I have an
Airflow Performance injection system, so don't need carb heat, but was
wondering about an alternate air source. The magnets sound like a
simple idea, but don't know how strong they need to be. Anyone else
have any designs that would work on Van's FAB?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
air box & baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Hi Rob,
I may be mistaken due to the fact that this is from memory but: with the
wheels on the ground supporting the aircraft load and the tail supported so
that the fuselage datum line is level the wheels will have a slight toe-in
if they have been aligned with near to or zero toe-in in the tail down
position.
Please correct me if necessary.
Jim in Kelowna----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
> I'll jump in and support you here, Jim, with an explanation, to boot!
>
> The reason toe-in is important on a taildragger: If your landing gear
> is toed-in slightly, it serves to help a pilot straighten an aircraft
> that has landed askew or has started to yaw to one side on landing.
> How? Well, when you're running straight ahead down the runway, both
> wheels are toed-in slightly and each has a bit of extra drag on them as
> a result. If the aircraft is yawed to one side (let's say to the left)
> slightly, the drag on the left wheel first decreases (while the wheel
> straightens out) and then increases again. On the right wheel, though,
> the drag is constantly increasing. This asymmetric drag on the two
> wheels creates a moment that serves to yaw the aircraft back to the
> right (in the absence of pilot-induced silliness, of course... 8-).
>
> If the wheels were toed-out, and the aircraft yawed to the left, the
> drag on the left wheel would continue to increase, and the drag on the
> right wheel would first decrease (until the wheel was straight down the
> runway) and then increase again. The resulting moment would increase
> the yaw to the left, and the likelihood of the aircraft ground-looping.
>
> At least, that's what seems intuitive... 8-P
>
> -RB4
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi Bill,
> >
> >I'm Ok with that.
> >
> >Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Jim,
> >>
> >>Afraid that I am going to have to disagree with you here.
> >>Toe in on tail draggers is poison. The alignment should be neutral with
> >>
> >the
> >
> >>aircraft sitting in the 3 point attitude or if not quite neutral, just
> >>slightly toed out. Some slack in the tailwheel steering is also
desirable.
> >>
> >>Bill, RV-8 Tiger-Kat
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> >>To:
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Larry,
> >>>tell your friend to he should try measuring the alignment of the mains.
> >>>
> >if
> >
> >>>they are toed out when they are loaded the aircraft will act as you
> >>>describe.
> >>>A slight amount of toe-in is desirable.
> >>>If the ground loop tendency is always to either the right or the left.
> >>>
> >>(same
> >>
> >>>direction) check for tight brake or tight bearings.
> >>>The rudder chains should be loose rather than tight
> >>>
> >>>Jim in Kelowna
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
> >>>To:
> >>>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Here's a couple of ideas:
> >>>>1) Do a weight and balance (yes, weight the airplane as is now). Is
> >>>>
> >the
> >
> >>>battery all the way out in the tail?
> >>>
> >>>>2) check the brakes for binding (or possibly for bad wheel bearings).
> >>>>
> >>>>Finn
> >>>>
> >>>>larry rush wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Fellas,
> >>>>>I own/fly a new RV-6A out of 2R2 Hendricks County Airport,
> >>>>>
> >>Avon,IN
> >>
> >>>and a friend of mine just bought a new RV-3 which is giving him
> >>>
> >>fits.
> >>
> >>>when he tries to taxiat any speed above very very slow
it
> >>>wants to ground loop. Same thing happens during takeoff before the
> >>>
> >rudder
> >
> >>>takes effect. He has about 400 hrs in tail draggers and is
current
> >>>too. It is so bad he is talking about selling it because he is getting
> >>>afraid of it. Mainly he doesn't want to damage it. Is there something
> >>>
> >>about
> >>
> >>>the extra weight of a 150 hp engine or anything else that might
> >>>
> >contribute
> >
> >>>to this? One guy told him his tailwheel chains were not slack
> >>>enough....???...Anyone had similar experiences with a 150hp RV-3
> >>>
> >??
> >
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Wanting to help a friend,
> >>>>>
> >>>>----------------------------------------------------
> >>>>Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> >>>>Only $9.95 per month!
> >>>>http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> --
> ---------
> Rob Prior
> rv7 "at" b4.ca
> -----------------------------
> Stop dreaming... Start flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
--- Tommy Walker wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: racker(at)rmci.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets)
>
> I carried my cork gaskets to my local Rubber & Gasket shop and had
> them m> ake me some rubber gaskets. I used "TiteSeal" from Aircraft Spruce to
> sea> l them. So far no problems at all. I had a Tech councilor tell me "If
> you> use Proseal you'll never get them apart if need be"! He knows cause
> he t> ore up a tank end rib trying to get off an access plate that had been
> Pro> sealed.
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A Finishing
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
> On a somewhat related note to others installing senders:
>
> A couple of years ago when I did my wings, several listers
> recommended
> using fuel lube on all the sender plate gaskets. Having fuel lube on
> han> d
> and no proseal around, I gave it a try.
>
> I'm mounting my wings right now, and two years later ALL four gaskets
> hav> e
> deteriorated (dry with large cracks in them).
>
> I am redoing all of them using proseal. DON'T use fuel lube.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6, mounting wings and empennage).
Tom:
Everyone that I know that has used the gaskets except one person has
had leaks. You are the second.
I am an EAA Tech Counslor (#3812) and recommend using ProSeal only. I
did TC visits on 30 RVs last year. The covers can be removed if
ProSealed on and not be damaged. DO NOT pry but use a putty knife and
hammer to CUT the faying surface seal. The covers do come off with out
damage and can be used again.
I helped a friend remove the rear baffle off of a tank on a flying RV-4
to fix a leak. We reused the baffle. I also removed the access cover
on my fuel tank before it flew as I forgot if I tighten the inverted
fuel pickup. I did not destroy it and resused all the parts.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate air for fuel injection |
FYI,
I have an IO-360, Bendix RSA injection and just put a typcial "old
fashioned" alternate air door in my air box, actuated by a plain "ole"
bowden cable to the cockpit. It's not the most ingenious door in the world,
but it serves it's purpose and I know it works. This way I don't have to
calculate the strenght of the springs or magnets to ensure it'll open when
needed. Another one of my KISS principles in motion.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Almost finished with the finishing - Still.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
>
> In my old T-210 the alternate air door was hinged at the top and held
> closed by two tiny magnets that were epoxied on.
What timing. I am assembling the air box now as we speak. I have an
Airflow Performance injection system, so don't need carb heat, but was
wondering about an alternate air source. The magnets sound like a
simple idea, but don't know how strong they need to be. Anyone else
have any designs that would work on Van's FAB?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
air box & baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Mimimum Temperature for Varaprime application |
Bob, I shot successfully down to about 45deg. I think humidity made the
biggest difference. In any case if it shoots dry add a little more
acid...
I found the thinner the better..
Steve
>
>
>Does anyone know of the minimum temperature for Varaprime application?
>Using spray gun, not aerosol. Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: February Specials - Vista Aviation inc. |
-GV (N1GV)
Date: 31 Jan 2002 23:00:24 -0000
From: "Vista Aviation" <vista(at)lb.bcentral.com>
Subject: February Specials - Vista Aviation inc.
Vista Aviation Inc.
12653 Osborne St.
Pacoima, CA 91331
USA
(818) 896-6442
1(800) 828-6756
Fax - (818) 896-9541
E-mail vista(at)vistaaviation.com
please visit www.vistaaviation.com for new and used avionics and more...
---------------------
* *
* FEBRUARY *
* SPECIALS *
* *
---------------------
LOTS OF NEW EQUIPMENT IN STOCK & LOWER PRICES!!
ALL FACTORY OVERHAULED HONEYWELL EQUIPMENT NOW CARRIES 6-12 MONTH WARRANTY
Aircraft for sale and employment opportunities on bottom of page.
***************
FACTORY NEW KMD-150
***************
With 2 Year Warranty
With its Large 5 diagonal color screen, the KMD-150 presents the most economical
multi-function display you can buy, and the only one with internal GPS. Combining
Jeppesen aeronautical, cartographic mapping and GPS navigation, the KMD-150
shows you everything from flight plans to waypoints to airports, NDBs, intersections,
VORs, special use airspace, rivers, roads, lakes, cities, railroads,
tower obstructions, terrain elevation, and WX-500 stormscope capability. Its
database can also be customized, enabling you to view the specific information
you would like to see at whichever map range you choose. There is even a handy
map declutter feature that allows you to remove detail as you zoom out, and
remembers your preferences for future use.
With internal GPS - $2,875
*********************
KLN-94
069-01034-0101
Color GPS
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,400
*********************
GNSXLS
17960-0203-0002
17960-0203-0014
17960-0102-0101
17960-0203-0001
Global Nav Management system
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $12,500
----------------
MK-12E Cessna
Narco Slide in replacement for Cessna RT-385
8130-3 by Vista - $1,895
----------------
KMA-20
066-1024-03
Audio panel Mkr with tray and plug
Nice condition yellow tag + 8130-3 by Vista - $450
----------------
VHF-20A
622-1879-001
Mod 1,4,7,10,11
8130-3 by Vista - $700
----------------
VHF-20A
622-1879-001
Mod 1,4,5,7
8130-3 by Vista - $700
----------------
VHF-20B
622-1334-001
Mod 1,4,5,7,10,11
8130-3 by Vista - $1,000
----------------
KMA-24H
066-01055-0071
Audio Panel/Intercom
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KMA-24H
066-01055-0052
Audio Panel/Intercom
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $895
----------------
KMA-24H
066-01055-0070
Audio Panel Intercom
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KMA-26
066-01155-0201
066-01155-0101
Audio Panel with marker beacon + intercom
Complete with factory install kit and tray
OHC by Vista with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $795
----------------
AG14-01
Electric Horizon 14V lighted
Non TSOd factory new $1,295
----------------
AG28-01
Electric Horizon 28V lighted
Non TSOd factory new $1,295
----------------
KA-33
071-04037-0000
071-04037-0001
Cooling fan
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $250
----------------
MD-41-324
MD-41-334
Switcher annunciator
8130-3 by Vista - $450
----------------
KA-44B
071-01234-0000
Loop antenna
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
KA-51A
Slaving access w/plug
071-1053-04
8130-3 by Vista - $400
----------------
KA-51B
Slaving Control
071-01242-0001 28V black
071-01242-0006 28V black horizontal
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $425
----------------
KN-53
066-01067-0004
NAV receiver FM immunity CNI-5000
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $2,100
----------------
KN-53
066-01067-0000
NAV receiver
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,000
----------------
KA-54A
071-01501-0000
Stripline KRA-405 Antenna
8130-3 by Honeywell - $350
----------------
GX-55
435-4009-200
GPS system W/antenna
8130-3 by Vista - $2,000
----------------
KN-63
066-01070-0001
Remote DME
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,895
----------------
ANT-67A
071-01548-0200
TCAS Antenna
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,750
----------------
KT-70
066-01141-0101
Mode s Transponder
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,950
----------------
KN-72
066-4009-00
VOR Converter
Yellow tag + 8130-3 by Vista - $600
----------------
KN-75
066-01063-0000
Universal Tune Glideslope Receiver
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
KT-76A
066-01062-0000
Transponder
SV condition W/8130-3 from Vista - $700
----------------
KT-76A
066-01062-0000
066-01062-0010
Transponder
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KT-76C
066-01156-0101
Transponder
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,100
----------------
KNS-81
066-04010-0010
RNAV
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,500
----------------
KR-87
066-01072-0000
Digital ADF receiver
8130-3 by Vista - $1,100
----------------
KR-87
066-01072-0004
Digital ADF receiver
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
----------------
KR-87
066-01072-0014
Digital ADF receiver
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
----------------
KLN-89B
066-01148-0102
IFR approach capable GPS receiver
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,100
Complete System - $1,700
----------------
KA-92
071-01553-0200
GPS antenna TSO'd 26 db gain TNC connector
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $200
----------------
KLN-94
069-01034-0101
Color GPS Rcvr
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,400
Complete System Available - $3,000
----------------
AA95-732
NAT audio Panel Low impedance microphone
8130-3 by Vista - $1,200
----------------
KY-96A
064-01052-0070
28V COM
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KY-97A
064-01051-0070
14V COM
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
FD-112V
622-1352-002
Indicator flight director
SV condition 2001 tag - $3,000
----------------
KX-125
069-01028-1101
Nav Com
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,400
----------------
KA-131
071-01114-0000
Antenna for KRA-10A
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $350
-----------------
KA-138
071-01251-0000
Relay Box
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
AT-150
Narco TXPDR
Slide in replacement for At-50 & AT-50A
8130-3 by Vista - $750
----------------
KMD-150
066-01174-0201
Multi function display WO/GPS comp sys
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,200
----------------
KX-155
069-01024-0005
NAV/COM 28 volt w/GS FM immune
8130-3 by Vista - $1,800
----------------
KX-155
069-01024-0043 FM compliant
28 volt 760 channel Nav/Com Transceiver with Glideslope
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,250
FM compliant
----------------
KX-155
069-01024-0038
Nav/Com 14V - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,800
----------------
KX-155
069-01024-0039
Nav/Com 28V - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,800
----------------
KX-155A
069-01032-0101
NAV com 25 KHZ/ 28V G/S - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,300
----------------
KX-165
069-01025-0021
14 Volt nav com GS VOR LOC - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,500
----------------
KX-165 - 28 volt
066-01025-0025 - FM COMPLIANT
760 Channel Nav/Com Transceiver with glideslope.
OHC by Honeywell fresh 8130-3 + C.O.C.
with mod-16 - $2,300
W/O mod-16 Honeywell 8130-3 SV condition - $2,100
----------------
IN-182A
066-03084-0032
Radar Indicator
8130-3 by Honeywell - $2,500
----------------
MD-189-1
HSI Control Switch
SV Condition W/8130-3 by Vista - $250
----------------
KY-196
064-01019-0000
VHF COM
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,000
----------------
KY-196A
064-01054-0030
VHF Com Transceiver - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,650
----------------
KY-197A
064-01053-0030
COM xcvr - FM COMPLIANT
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,650
----------------
KI-203
066-03034-0000
VOR/ILS indicator with Rectalinear movement
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KI-204
066-03034-0002
VOR/LOC GS ind
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. $1,000
----------------
KI-206
066-03034-0005 w/syncro - $1,200
VOR LOC GS indicator
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C.
----------------
KI-208
066-03056-0000
066-03056-0002 with anti glare lense
VOR/ILS Indicator
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $600
----------------
KI-209A
066-03056-0011
VOR/LOC/GS indicator W/GPS display
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
----------------
KI-227
066-03063-0000 - $350
066-03063-0001 - $450 w/Slave
ADF indicator
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C.
----------------
KI-228
066-03059-0001
Dual pointer ADF indicator slaved
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $650
----------------
KI-256
060-00017-0000
Flight Director Horizon Gyro
Will also work with S-tec System 55 Autopilot system
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,250
----------------
KAS-297
065-00046-0000
Altitude Preselect
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,000
----------------
MD-41-324
GPS Annunciator Unit
8130-3 by Vista - $450
----------------
329B-7A
522-3206-008
Flight director indicator
OHC W/8130-3 from precision instruments - $2,000
----------------
KEA-346
066-03062-0010
066-03062-0011
Encoding altimeter
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $6,000
----------------
KEA-346
066-03062-0008
Encoding altimeter
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $7,000
----------------
RT-359A
41420-1114
Transponder
8130-3 by Vista - $600
----------------
GC-362A
071-01505-0103
Graphics computer
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,595
----------------
1C388
Radio coupler
8130-3 by autopilot central - $450
----------------
KRA-405B
066-01153-0101
Radar altimeter T/R
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $4,695
----------------
RT-459
41470-1028
41470-1128
ARC TXPDR
8130-3 by Vista - $695
----------------
CDU-500
11555-4
11555-7
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,000
----------------
KI-525A
066-03046-0001
HSI W/bootstrap syncro
OHC with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,795
----------------
ED-551A
066-03137-3100
066-03137-3300
EFIS Display
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $8,400
----------------
KPI-552
066-03024-0017
HSI indicator
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $4,500
----------------
KPI-553A
066-03045-0050
Pictorial NAV indicator
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $5,600
----------------
KFS-564A
071-01283-0012
Digital frequency selector V/Off 28V black
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,725
----------------
KDI-572
066-01069-0000
066-01069-0001
DME indicator 14v 28v
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,150
----------------
KFS-599A
071-01546-0101
UHF FQ SEL V/off/T 28V Black
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,300
----------------
KNR-620
066-01126-0000
VOR Sensor
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $775
----------------
KNR-634A
066-01078-0010
Nav Rcvr GS/MB/RMI 3 wire
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $6,100
----------------
KA-670
071-1361-10
GPS antenna Amplifier
SV condition Fresh tag - $500
----------------
KDA-687
071-01449-0000
adapter
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
KDA-689
071-01227-0001
ARINC serial 706 adapter
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
----------------
KDA-692
071-01217-0001
Adapter
OHC by Honeywell - $1,395
----------------
KMD-706A
066-01066-0025
DME 660/EFS-10 Trk Flag
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $3,795
----------------
KXP-750A
066-1011-00
TXPDR
Vista 8130-3 - $795
----------------
NS-801
Narco area nav
8130-3 by Vista - $795
----------------
COM 811 TSO
Narco COM
8130-3 by Vista - $750
----------------
RS-861A
071-01319-0030
Radar Rt
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $11,500
----------------
IN-862A
066-03086-0030
Radar indicator
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $3,300
----------------
KLN-900
066-04034-0104
GPS DZUS Blk
BRNAV/ oceanic FDE
OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $4,000
----------------
KTR-909
064-01065-0100
UHF Transceiver AM
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $5,000
----------------
GNS-1000
30150-03-40
GNS-Nav
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
----------------
ART-2000
071-01519-0101 with 1 year warranty
RDR 2000 R/T Unit
OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $9,900
----------------
RDR2000
071-01519-0101
066-03084-0032
10 or 12 Antenna plate Install kits included
Complete System 8130-3 by Honeywell - $14,500
----------------
AA2012V
071-01549-0200
Radar Antenna
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
AA2010V
071-01549-0100
Radar Antenna
OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
----------------
Terra TRA-3000
Radar altimeter with TRI-20 indicator
$1,500
----------------
1U262-042-2
S3330-2
DG with heading bug
Removed from new Cessna a/c with 50 hrs - $1,000
----------------
***MISCELLANEOUS BEECH PANELS***
35921502 gasket
69-324034-19 panel
0611371-1 EL panel
35-324026-6 panel placard
99-364028 circuit board
35-324421-9
96-324201-7
50944045-47 govener plate
35-910160-14 doubler
50-320177 panel
35-324366-5 placard
2E1303 spacer
35-324026-6 panel placard
50-920089-11 boost pump placard
50-364252-769 panel placard assy
***********************************
NEW AND USED AIRCRAFT FOR SALE
***********************************
Specifications available at www.vistaaviation.com
------------
January 25, 2002 - February 01, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mg