RV-Archive.digest.vol-mh
February 01, 2002 - February 07, 2002
1977 Aerostar
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate air for fuel injection |
Blank i like the idea of a cable operated door. It would let you check
the condition of the filter by just opening the door and checking the
manifold pressure. It would also put the door on the outside of the
plenum so when it wears out the parts will fall off of not into the
engine. There is a lot of vibration and the spring loaded doors need to
be checked for wear at annual and are missed quite often.
i checked my door is 2 1/2" square, all 4 corners are 7/16" radius , the
opening in the plenum is 2 1/8" square, all 4 corners are 1/4" radius,
the door is made from .050 alum sandwich with rubber gasket between. It
has the aircraft extruded hinge material and a torsion spring to hold it
closed.
Dennis and Fran Flamini N564DF race#53 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Access plate removal; was Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
Get a standard 1" wide putty knife and sharpen the end a little. Now with a
small ball peen hammer tap the sharpened putty knife between the access
plate and the tank. Don't forget to remove the screws first. What your doing
is cutting the proseal. In less than 1 minute you should have the access
plate and tank parted. It is real easy. Using a heat gun would only push the
operation to a Rube Goldberg status.
Gary Zilik
Michael J. Robbins wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>
> It is not hard to get the
> access plate off the tank if prosealed in place. A sharpened putty knife
> slid
> between the tank and plate and it pops right off.
>
> > Gary Zilik
>
> Does it help to warm it up with a heat gun first? I have to remove my
> access plates to add the anti-rotation bracket to both tanks. I've been
> putting it off for two years, but need to do it soon as I hope to be in
> the air in a couple of months. I used proseal and the cork gaskets on
> the access covers, and Titeseal on the senders.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
> Starting engine baffles (what a poor set of instructions!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Varaprime Temperature? |
Bob,
I like to spray above freezing. I do make sure the parts and paint is
warmed up. I also use a faster converter; I think it is 618 or maybe 615,
not sure.
Jack
RV8, wings
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access plate removal; was Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Just wanted to thank everyone for their input/corrections/enlightenment
regarding fuel tank sender sealing.
Rob Acker (redoing access covers, proseal with no gaskets).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>All of you guys are right and it just depends on what stage of deviation you
>are talking about. Toe-in helps prevent the initiation of the yaw though
>its tendency to keep a straight track, but toe-out helps recovery by virtue
>of loading up the outside wheel. Personally, I'd rather the toe-out because
>I may not put that bad boy on the deck in perfect alignment. Prevention
>(toe-in) or correctability (toe-out)... that's the big difference.
>Cheers,
>Dave
>
I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
have some good points.
I do know that my RV-6 has quite a bit of toe-in in the three point
attitude and has pretty much neutral toe in a level attitude; this from
actual measurement, although it varies a lot with how much weight is on
the gear. I also know it has very docile ground handling in either
attitude. My steering springs are loose, per Van's specs. I have
observed many RV's with tight springs or even a fairly direct steering
rod. All these arrangements are reputed to work well also. Docile
handling in every case.
I think anyone with ground handling problems needs to look for gross
problems, either in brakes or gear geometry far from Van's specs.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>
>>
>>
>>All of you guys are right and it just depends on what stage of deviation you
>>are talking about. Toe-in helps prevent the initiation of the yaw though
>>its tendency to keep a straight track, but toe-out helps recovery by virtue
>>of loading up the outside wheel. Personally, I'd rather the toe-out because
>>I may not put that bad boy on the deck in perfect alignment. Prevention
>>(toe-in) or correctability (toe-out)... that's the big difference.
>>Cheers,
>>Dave
>>
>
>I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
>have some good points.
>
>I do know that my RV-6 has quite a bit of toe-in in the three point
>attitude and has pretty much neutral toe in a level attitude; this from
>actual measurement, although it varies a lot with how much weight is on
>the gear. I also know it has very docile ground handling in either
>attitude. My steering springs are loose, per Van's specs. I have
>observed many RV's with tight springs or even a fairly direct steering
>rod. All these arrangements are reputed to work well also. Docile
>handling in every case.
>
>I think anyone with ground handling problems needs to look for gross
>problems, either in brakes or gear geometry far from Van's specs.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
Larry,
Based on your observations of how the gear moves as the weight on it
varies, do you have any idea what happens in the three point attitude
as more weight comes onto one wheel, and less on the other (as would
happen when a ground loop started). How the wheel alignment varies
in a dynamic situation like that probably goes a long way to
explaining why some aircraft types resist ground loops, and others
seem to look for any excuse to go off in the weeds.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | for purists only |
Those nearing the later stages of building are soon to be confronted with the
first of Van's little surprises. The fact that your "all metal" airplane is
not really all metal, but actually contains quite a bit of fiberglass. For
those purists among us, there is an alternative. You can make your wheel
pants, various fairings, and even the cowl out of sheet metal and thus fly a
true all metal RV.
The skills to do this are shown in detail in a new set of videos by Kent
White (The Tin Man). The first, Shrinking Magic goes through the basic
skills of forming, shrinking, and stretching metal. The second Shaping Wheel
Pants advances upon these skills and uses them to actually construct a
finished part. Both these videos are long and detailed, and although not
fancy hollywood productions do impart a great deal of knowledge and
experience.
Personally, the more I watch the Tin Man do his stuff the more I thank Van
for all that glass. But that's me. Those looking to take the time to learn
and apply a true art to their projects may actually appreciate this
alternative.
In the Sheet Metal section of Builder's Bookstore.
Also New:
1] GAS WELDING ALUMINUM Also by "The Tin Man" excellent welding video;
very detailed and uses a special camera lens that shows clearly in detail the
actual weld as it happens. In the Welding section.
2] 4130 CHROMEMOLY AIRFRAME CONSTRUCTION Also by "The Tin Man" The skills
to build or refurbish a steel tubed airframe like a Piper Cub, Stinson, etc.
(not RV related). In the Welding section
3] AC-43.13 Acceptable Methods of Aircraft Repair has just been revised again
with the new edition to be available on March 1st. I'm not sure of the exact
changes, but do know it involves over 200 pages. We are now taking pre orders
for early March shipments. In the Airframe - General Skills section.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
What are Van's specs for toe in or out?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Pardue
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
>
>All of you guys are right and it just depends on what stage of deviation
you
>are talking about. Toe-in helps prevent the initiation of the yaw though
>its tendency to keep a straight track, but toe-out helps recovery by virtue
>of loading up the outside wheel. Personally, I'd rather the toe-out
because
>I may not put that bad boy on the deck in perfect alignment. Prevention
>(toe-in) or correctability (toe-out)... that's the big difference.
>Cheers,
>Dave
>
I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
have some good points.
I do know that my RV-6 has quite a bit of toe-in in the three point
attitude and has pretty much neutral toe in a level attitude; this from
actual measurement, although it varies a lot with how much weight is on
the gear. I also know it has very docile ground handling in either
attitude. My steering springs are loose, per Van's specs. I have
observed many RV's with tight springs or even a fairly direct steering
rod. All these arrangements are reputed to work well also. Docile
handling in every case.
I think anyone with ground handling problems needs to look for gross
problems, either in brakes or gear geometry far from Van's specs.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
The shield idea may have merit.
I'll try wrapping one with foil, and grounding the foil, this weekend.
I have totally checked the ground plane and provided different ones just to
be sure, all to no effect.
them damm electrons, I seem to remember that everything we know about them
is still theory
more later
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Where to buy SHIM PLATES for starter? |
Does anybody know of a place to buy shim plates that
bolt under the starter. Had my starter rebuilt and now
fits too tight on the ring gear. I am putting this on
an O-320H2AD engine with a prestolight starter MZ4222.
Dan DeNeal
trying to finish a todo list that just keep getting
longer!!
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>What are Van's specs for toe in or out?
>
"The fuselage must be level, both lengthwise and crosswise,... Under a
no-load condition, the axles should have no toe-in or toe-out, as is
shown in SK-70."
RV-6 Section 10 Manual
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:19:48 PM
Which begs the question, what have people observed when changing out the
springs for the Jantzi steering arm, which I intend to do.
Eric
Larry Pardue (at)matronics.com on 02/01/2002 11:31:47 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
>
>All of you guys are right and it just depends on what stage of deviation
you
>are talking about. Toe-in helps prevent the initiation of the yaw though
>its tendency to keep a straight track, but toe-out helps recovery by
virtue
>of loading up the outside wheel. Personally, I'd rather the toe-out
because
>I may not put that bad boy on the deck in perfect alignment. Prevention
>(toe-in) or correctability (toe-out)... that's the big difference.
>Cheers,
>Dave
>
I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
have some good points.
I do know that my RV-6 has quite a bit of toe-in in the three point
attitude and has pretty much neutral toe in a level attitude; this from
actual measurement, although it varies a lot with how much weight is on
the gear. I also know it has very docile ground handling in either
attitude. My steering springs are loose, per Van's specs. I have
observed many RV's with tight springs or even a fairly direct steering
rod. All these arrangements are reputed to work well also. Docile
handling in every case.
I think anyone with ground handling problems needs to look for gross
problems, either in brakes or gear geometry far from Van's specs.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Access plate removal; was Fuel Tank Sender (Gaskets) |
Wow I can't believe all this proseal stuff, I used the cork gaskets with
Permatex both sides of the gasket and screws, Leak tested OK and
no leaks in 2 years.
Wayne RV-4 flying.
Based on all the feedback on this thread, sounds like I might ought to
re move my rubber gaskets and do the Proseal thing!
Get a standard 1" wide putty knife and sharpen the end a little. Now with
a small ball peen hammer tap the sharpened putty knife between the access
plate and the tank. Don't forget to remove the screws first. What your do
ing is cutting the proseal. In less than 1 minute you should have the
access
plate and tank parted. It is real easy.
It is not hard to get the access plate off the tank if prosealed in
place.
A sharpened putty knif slid between the tank and plate and it pops right
off. Does it help to warm it up with a heat gun first? I have to remove
my
access plates to add the anti-rotation bracket to both tanks. I've been
putting it off for two years, but need to do it soon as I hope to be in
the air in a couple of months. I used proseal and the cork gaskets on
the access covers, and Titeseal on the senders.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>Sent: 2/2/20 6:43 AM
>Received: 2/1/02 11:13 AM
>From: Kevin Horton, khorton(at)cyberus.ca
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>Larry,
>
>Based on your observations of how the gear moves as the weight on it
>varies, do you have any idea what happens in the three point attitude
>as more weight comes onto one wheel, and less on the other (as would
>happen when a ground loop started). How the wheel alignment varies
>in a dynamic situation like that probably goes a long way to
>explaining why some aircraft types resist ground loops, and others
>seem to look for any excuse to go off in the weeds.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
This is from memory, but I did spend some time thinking about it when I
checked the gear alignment and was startled to see how much toe in the is
in the three point attitude with my RV-6.
The varying toe-in/toe-out on the RV-6 gear, in three point attitude, is
due to the camber. Camber is most with the least weight on the gear.
With increasing weight it would go to zero then as the gear splayed out
with increasing weight, or a hard landing, presumably the gear would go
toe-out.
Hold your hands side by side with the palms facing and fingers down.
This is the landing gear. Tilt your hands so the fingers are closer to
each other. This is the camber. As long as the fingers point straight
down there is no toe-in. Now point the fingers slightly away from your
body. This is the gear geometry in three point attitude. The toe-in is
obvious.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
You want the tires to roll straight, the objective of toe in is to allow for
bearing clearances and rolling friction (which will twist the legs open),
this rolling friction load will vary depending on load and attitude.
Van drills the legs for us now and we don't have to worry about it.
Wayne
RV-4 flying
I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
have some good points.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Good luck. Let me know what happens. We had an ice storm last night and
today, so I bet I can't go flying for a while. My plane is parked outside
and it will take a while to get free of ice.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Subject: RV-List: Vans Gauges
The shield idea may have merit.
I'll try wrapping one with foil, and grounding the foil, this weekend.
I have totally checked the ground plane and provided different ones just to
be sure, all to no effect.
them damm electrons, I seem to remember that everything we know about them
is still theory
more later
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
I recently put the Jantzi link on my RV-3. Very little change from the
spring/chain setup. My RV-3 is VERY easy the fly. No problems with ground
handling or landing/ takeoff at all.
The original builder(not me) apparently did an excellent job af alignment.
Perry Rhoads
Carlinville, IL
RV-3 N96GW
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
>
> Which begs the question, what have people observed when changing out the
> springs for the Jantzi steering arm, which I intend to do.
>
> Eric
>
>
> Larry Pardue (at)matronics.com on 02/01/2002 11:31:47 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To:
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-3 PROBLEM
>
>
> >
> >
> >All of you guys are right and it just depends on what stage of deviation
> you
> >are talking about. Toe-in helps prevent the initiation of the yaw though
> >its tendency to keep a straight track, but toe-out helps recovery by
> virtue
> >of loading up the outside wheel. Personally, I'd rather the toe-out
> because
> >I may not put that bad boy on the deck in perfect alignment. Prevention
> >(toe-in) or correctability (toe-out)... that's the big difference.
> >Cheers,
> >Dave
> >
>
> I don't know from theory? Both the toe-in and the toe-out people seem to
> have some good points.
>
> I do know that my RV-6 has quite a bit of toe-in in the three point
> attitude and has pretty much neutral toe in a level attitude; this from
> actual measurement, although it varies a lot with how much weight is on
> the gear. I also know it has very docile ground handling in either
> attitude. My steering springs are loose, per Van's specs. I have
> observed many RV's with tight springs or even a fairly direct steering
> rod. All these arrangements are reputed to work well also. Docile
> handling in every case.
>
> I think anyone with ground handling problems needs to look for gross
> problems, either in brakes or gear geometry far from Van's specs.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Seems like the easiest solution is to put a wheel up front!!!
Dave Burnham
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | AOA service bulletin |
Fellow Listers:
I received this service bulletin from Jim Frantz regarding his angle of
attack instrument. He wanted to be sure this was distributed throughout the
RV community.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
-----------------------------
Subject: AOA Sport or Pro with RV pre-calibrated chip
For RVs installing or flying the AOA Sport with the pre-calibrated chip, it
is important that the flap switch be wired correctly. There are three ways
to wire the flap switch and only one will be correct depending upon when we
shipped the calibrated chip. Please go to www.angle-of-attack.com and
click on the green bar "Service Instructions" link for a copy of Service
Instruction 0201 (SI0201) and more details.
A revised calibration verification checklist (Calibrate Verify CL) is also
available from the link to the AOA FTP site. Instructions for an Internet
Explorer download are also available via the green bar link. Let me know
if the verification checklist works for your RV and if it passed the
verification.
James B. Frantz
Proprietary Software Systems, Inc.
www.angle-of-attack.com
LFrantz(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio Callsign |
> And some want you to describe the "type" (or was that "class"?) as "Hotel
>
> I may have this wrong on the speeds but there are three "types/classes)"
of
> experimentals:
>
> HXA ...<100kts
> HXB ... 100-200kts
> HXC ... >200kts
>
> This is based on a recent conversation with an FSS when I tried to file
with
> A/C type being "RV".
RV4, RV6, and RV8 are now officially listed in the "type" designation. The
problem is that many controllers aren't aware of it. I use "romeo victor
eight" and then if there is any hesitation I quickly add "hotel xray bravo".
I'm probably running about 50/50 with approach and enroute controllers
recognizing the RVx designation.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 143.5 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List, I was wondering if anyone who has installed or is about to
install the Vans Triangle Heater Box could give me the following
information:
1) Is the 2" hole on the firewall side of the box centered?
2) Am I correct that the size of the box (Against the
Firewall) is 3 1/4" Wide by 5 1/8" High?
I was able to borrow a 2" Greenlee Knockout to make my firebox
holes then my boxes didn't arrive! I can only use the Greenlee Tool for
the weekend. Can anyone bail me out??
Tom in Tropical Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
hi , there was a past arcticle in sport aviation about the super rv6 . can
anyone tell me which issue this was in? i can then locate the magazine from
someone , once i know the issue.....thanks
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Box Help |
Hi Tom,
As it happens I'm holding one in my shop soiled hand.
the base dimensions are exactly:
5-1/16" long "high"
3-1/4" wide
The cabin inlet hole "firewall side" is not centered lengthwise.
It is a 2" hole. The center of this hole is 1-27/32" from the cabin/cockpit
entry end of the base. The hole is centered width wise.
Let me know if this info needs clarifying
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
> List, I was wondering if anyone who has installed or is about to
> install the Vans Triangle Heater Box could give me the following
> information:
> 1) Is the 2" hole on the firewall side of the box centered?
> 2) Am I correct that the size of the box (Against the
> Firewall) is 3 1/4" Wide by 5 1/8" High?
> I was able to borrow a 2" Greenlee Knockout to make my firebox
> holes then my boxes didn't arrive! I can only use the Greenlee Tool for
> the weekend. Can anyone bail me out??
>
> Tom in Tropical Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Box Help |
Hi;
I did the hole cutting for a Van's heat control box myself recently.
Three holes are needed, top - 3/16" hole for upper mounting bolt, center -
2" dia for hot air flow, and bottom - 3/16" hole for lower mounting bolt.
I am working from memory, but I think the two 3/16 holes were 4 1/2" apart.
The 2" hole was 1 3/4" or so below the upper 3/16 hole (measuring center to
center). This assumes that you are mounting the item with the hinge and the
operating arm at the top. (Other orientations are possible.)
I didn't take an overall measurement but your numbers (3 1/4" x 5 1/8") look
right.
You would probably be safe to cut your 2" hole planning up 1 3/4" for one
hole and 2 3/4" down for the other hole to make sure you're not running into
anything important. Best leave the 3/16" holes until later when you have you
hot air box in hand to check these dimensions.
Jim Oke
CYWG
RV-3 (flying when its not too cold)
RV-6 (tinkering inside, most any temp)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <>
Subject: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
> List, I was wondering if anyone who has installed or is about to
> install the Vans Triangle Heater Box could give me the following
> information:
> 1) Is the 2" hole on the firewall side of the box centered?
> 2) Am I correct that the size of the box (Against the
> Firewall) is 3 1/4" Wide by 5 1/8" High?
> I was able to borrow a 2" Greenlee Knockout to make my firebox
> holes then my boxes didn't arrive! I can only use the Greenlee Tool for
> the weekend. Can anyone bail me out??
>
> Tom in Tropical Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: rv 6 6cylinder |
Why not do an article search on the EAA web site www.eaa.org
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv 6 6cylinder
hi , there was a past arcticle in sport aviation about the super rv6 . can
anyone tell me which issue this was in? i can then locate the magazine from
someone , once i know the issue.....thanks
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Guys,
Any of you who have installed fm/cd players have a recommendation for a
model of antenna good for the fm band and the placement of such. Our
plan like many others is to place the transponder and bent whip comm
antenna under the belly on opposite sides of the 8...approx where the
footwells are for hte rear seater.
Thanks for any input.
Doug Bell
8qb
Manistee, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: wire braided hose |
What is a 'Friction blade'?
Doug Gray
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> I used to work for a shop that made steel braided hoses for everything from
> little cute avionics hoses to fuel transfer hoses for Bath and Ingalls ship
> building. These were 8" steel braided hoses. Everyone of them was cut the
> same way Bill describes. Friction blade in a chop saw, cut through the
> masking tape. I used to watch them beat the stainless crimp collars on
> those things with a big wooden mallet. It was a big pain every time they
> did it and required a good vocabulary of profanity to get the things on. It
> was a little scarry when the C-17 fuel lines would come back from leak test
> with leaks and they would just beat the collars with the Big Wood Hammer
> until they sealed. Anyone here fly C-17's, not me thanks. They did say that
> until they get pressure for a while and tend to relax inside the collars
> that they were a little tempramental.
>
> Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Box Help |
Jim, I think I got it? The 2" Hole is 1-27/32 down from the top edge of the
box if looking at it mounted on the Firewall from the engine compartment?
Thanks, Tom in
much Colder Ohio than the 60's this morning!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> As it happens I'm holding one in my shop soiled hand.
> the base dimensions are exactly:
>
> 5-1/16" long "high"
> 3-1/4" wide
>
> The cabin inlet hole "firewall side" is not centered lengthwise.
> It is a 2" hole. The center of this hole is 1-27/32" from the
cabin/cockpit
> entry end of the base. The hole is centered width wise.
> Let me know if this info needs clarifying
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
>
> >
> > List, I was wondering if anyone who has installed or is about to
> > install the Vans Triangle Heater Box could give me the following
> > information:
> > 1) Is the 2" hole on the firewall side of the box centered?
> > 2) Am I correct that the size of the box (Against the
> > Firewall) is 3 1/4" Wide by 5 1/8" High?
> > I was able to borrow a 2" Greenlee Knockout to make my firebox
> > holes then my boxes didn't arrive! I can only use the Greenlee Tool for
> > the weekend. Can anyone bail me out??
> >
> > Tom in Tropical Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
In a message dated 02/01/2002 10:26:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
> "The fuselage must be level, both lengthwise and crosswise,... Under a
> no-load condition, the axles should have no toe-in or toe-out, as is
> shown in SK-70."
>
> RV-6 Section 10 Manual
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
You also need to verify that the gear leg bolt is a tight fit in each gear
leg to engine mount attachment.
Unlike the RV-4 and later kit types, these parts didn't come predrilled from
Van's.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Vari-Prime Information |
Bob,
Here's what DuPont says in their Tech Mnaual...
I assume you know the general description of the material and basic prep
procedures, so I won't get into that.
620S is the fast Converter and 614S is the slow. Mixing Ratio is 1:1.
Any additives ( accelerators, acid, flex agents, fish eye eliminators,
and so on ) are highly NOT RECOMMENDED!
You can pretty much undercoat over with just about all DuPont
undercoats. We generally use ChromaPrime . Do Not use Lacquer Based
primers or sealers! It is a good idea to treat aluminum with 225S/226S
for best results. If your going to shoot steel parts only clean
them...VariPrime doesn't like 244S or any other Conditioner.
As far as temperature goes, DuPont looks at everything at 68 degrees or
more (shop or booth temperature). Part of how it works is extothermic.
Meaning it needs some outside warmth to convert. Sure it will flash at
lower temperatures but...it may not (won't) bond as well as when using
the proper air temperature.
When shooting it at 68-72 degrees, flash time is 5 minutes.
Undercoating can be done after 30 minutes dry time and sanding, if
needed, after an hour or so. The maximum dry time is 24 hours, after
that it has to be sanded before you can apply any other coats.
One thing to remember is it needs to "wet out". That is don't force dry
it. You need to apply at least 2 wet coats of variprime for proper
protection for aluminum.
Hope this gives you some insight on the product. If you still have
questions...e-mail me and I'll see if I can't get you an answer...
Jim D. N708JD
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Box Help |
Tom,
If you intend to mount the Cabin heat door assembly with its scat tube
fitting pointing in the down position, (that is pointing toward the exhast
heat muff) the `center' of the cabin heat firewall hole will be as you
describe.
As someone else said don't worry about drilling the mounting screw holes
until you have the unit on hand.
The mounting screw hole centers on the unit I have here are 1/4" from the
edges and centered on the width of each end.
Up here in the cold Canada north the snow is melting fast today
The best to you,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
> Jim, I think I got it? The 2" Hole is 1-27/32 down from the top edge of
the
> box if looking at it mounted on the Firewall from the engine compartment?
> Thanks, Tom
in
> much Colder Ohio than the 60's this morning!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Box Help
>
>
> >
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > As it happens I'm holding one in my shop soiled hand.
> > the base dimensions are exactly:
> >
> > 5-1/16" long "high"
> > 3-1/4" wide
> >
> > The cabin inlet hole "firewall side" is not centered lengthwise.
> > It is a 2" hole. The center of this hole is 1-27/32" from the
> cabin/cockpit
> > entry end of the base. The hole is centered width wise.
> > Let me know if this info needs clarifying
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Heater Box Help
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > List, I was wondering if anyone who has installed or is about to
> > > install the Vans Triangle Heater Box could give me the following
> > > information:
> > > 1) Is the 2" hole on the firewall side of the box centered?
> > > 2) Am I correct that the size of the box (Against the
> > > Firewall) is 3 1/4" Wide by 5 1/8" High?
> > > I was able to borrow a 2" Greenlee Knockout to make my firebox
> > > holes then my boxes didn't arrive! I can only use the Greenlee Tool
for
> > > the weekend. Can anyone bail me out??
> > >
> > > Tom in Tropical Ohio
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Doug Bell wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
> Any of you who have installed fm/cd players have a recommendation for
> a
> model of antenna good for the fm band and the placement of such. Our
> plan like many others is to place the transponder and bent whip comm
> antenna under the belly on opposite sides of the 8...approx where the
> footwells are for hte rear seater.
> Thanks for any input.
> Doug Bell
> 8qb
> Manistee, MI
>
Doug:
I have Bob Archer's VOR antennae in each wing tip. One is used for the
VOR/GS and the other for the FM stereo. Works great. Even a homemade
FM antenna in the wing tip should work ok.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | aileron galvanized pipe question |
When drilling skin 1/8 inch to the galvanized pipe I ended up with about half
my holes waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy to big (very very oblong). Large enough that
the hole will not be filled after the rivet is in place. I think the rivet
will set at one end of the oblong hole but I still have room almost for two
rivets. I guess it was the angle and or a dull bit along with heat.
Suggestions for repair? Or rivet the dang thing and use a little putty at
paint time. My concern is that air will/mositure will enter the aileron.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Is there an oops pop rivet for an oversized 1/8 inch hole?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
for an fm antenna you can use a regular radio coax from the auto supply .
plug one end into your radio the other end clean off the outer plastic and
sheilding only for about 3 ft. the inner cable is still covered and
protecting the inner cable.
this could be placed possibly along your front canopy bow/roll bar. under
the top of your glare shield if it is composite or as far out as a wing tip.
i have used this under the glare shied of a composite aircraft and it worked
fine.
i have seen another one run up the center top inside of a rv4 and it works
very well.......
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/1/2002 3:36:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dbell(at)manisteenational.com writes:
> Any of you who have installed fm/cd players have a recommendation for a
> model of antenna good for the fm band and the placement of such.
I routed RG-58 cable down the right wing and terminated it in a female BNC
bulkhead mount connector attached to the tip rib. I put a BNC male connector
on the end of a 42" length of RG-58. I stripped about 32" of the jacket and
sleeving from the other end and draped it inside the wingtip with a few tacks
of RTV over the length to hold it. It works excellent in all conditions
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Question |
Tom Gummo said:
> When I transmit, I can't hear a "sidetone" or my own voice
> while talking.
I don't know about the King but some radios have a pot that you can adjust
for more or less sidetone. On my terra its adjusted with a small screwdriver
through a little hole in the housing (radio needs to be removed to access
it.) There should be something about it in the radio's manual.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron pipe |
I would use a Cherry Max rivet size 5 countersunk. Probably 5-3 or 5-4.
You can even get 6- Cherry Max if the hole is really that big.
These holes are easy to elongate. You should drill the holes with #40 bit
first and then enlarge it to full size after. Too late now but an easy fix.
Steve
RV-7A
Wings almost done
>From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: aileron pipe
>Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 23:24:02 EST
>
>
>Is there an oops pop rivet for an oversized 1/8 inch hole?
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Thanks for the htoughts on the FM antenna guys, after being at golf shows
for the last three weekends, finally a Saturday in the shop withthe plane
all day...whew...it is still winter isn't it?
Thanks again,
Doug Jr
8qb
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: FM Antenna
>
> In a message dated 2/1/2002 3:36:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> dbell(at)manisteenational.com writes:
>
>
> > Any of you who have installed fm/cd players have a recommendation for a
> > model of antenna good for the fm band and the placement of such.
>
> I routed RG-58 cable down the right wing and terminated it in a female BNC
> bulkhead mount connector attached to the tip rib. I put a BNC male
connector
> on the end of a 42" length of RG-58. I stripped about 32" of the jacket
and
> sleeving from the other end and draped it inside the wingtip with a few
tacks
> of RTV over the length to hold it. It works excellent in all conditions
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel lube and Nylaflow |
Anyone know if Fuel Lube is
OK for use on/around Nylaflow
tubing?
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4, #@%&*
brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron galvanized pipe question |
How about running down to the hardware store and buying a new pipe and drill bits
and try it again.
Gary
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> When drilling skin 1/8 inch to the galvanized pipe I ended up with about half
> my holes waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy to big (very very oblong). Large enough that
> the hole will not be filled after the rivet is in place. I think the rivet
> will set at one end of the oblong hole but I still have room almost for two
> rivets. I guess it was the angle and or a dull bit along with heat.
> Suggestions for repair? Or rivet the dang thing and use a little putty at
> paint time. My concern is that air will/mositure will enter the aileron.
> Thanks, Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron galvanized pipe question |
To clarify, its the skin that has the elongated holes not the pipe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: unsubscribe |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 02/01/2002 7:32:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Doug:
>
> I have Bob Archer's VOR antennae in each wing tip. One is used for the
> VOR/GS and the other for the FM stereo. Works great. Even a homemade
> FM antenna in the wing tip should work ok.
>
The VOR frequencies are 108 to 118 Mhz. FM frequencies end at 108 Mhz, right
below the VOR frequencies. A VOR antenna should still work pretty well
between 88.9 Mhz and 108 Mhz, especially with the output power of the FM
stations.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50
(I have an unused VOR antenna in the wingtip, but where can I mount the FM
receiver?) :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel lube and Nylaflow |
I believe is harmless to Nylaflow. I actually found Fuel lube most helpful
on the Nylon fittings! It seemed to give me a much better feel for when I
was approaching terminal tightness. Without Fuel Lube, the nylon fittings
would turn with great resistance throughout the whole tightening process and
I never knew where to stop. This led to leaks in the brake plumbing. With
Fuel Lube applied, the fitting spun in easily until they reached a good
degree of seal, at which rotation the torque suddenly increased
dramatically. That's when I stopped.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel lube and Nylaflow
>
> Anyone know if Fuel Lube is
> OK for use on/around Nylaflow
> tubing?
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
> RV-4, #@%&*
brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
Does NAPA have a similar product to Fuel Lube?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of nauga(at)brick.net
Subject: RV-List: Fuel lube and Nylaflow
Anyone know if Fuel Lube is
OK for use on/around Nylaflow
tubing?
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4, #@%&*
brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron pipe |
In a message dated 2/1/02 8:25:41 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Is there an oops pop rivet for an oversized 1/8 inch hole? >>
Check Wicks page 101, Cherry Q rivets and Cherry N rivets up to 3/16 or
Cherry Max 5/32. I just happen to have the Wicks catalog in front of me,
Spruce has the same hardware and I think they have larger Cherry Max sizes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 PROBLEM |
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Which begs the question, what have people observed when changing out the
> springs for the Jantzi steering arm, which I intend to do.
>
> Eric
---------------------
Here ya go:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/steering_link.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Close Tolerance Bolts |
3 Questions:
1.) How do you get those close tolerance bolts in the holes of the wing
spar? They seem a little too 'close tolerance' for me. Spent 5 min getting
one in and then 5 min getting it out. Use a little lube? Obviously I don't
want to drill the hole out or sand the bolt to maintain the close tolerance.
2.) The AN426AD4-14 rivets that attach the vertical bars (F704G) to the
F-704B to F-704D seem too short. I called Van's and they said just rivet
them any way but they have not had any other builders bring this up. Have
others experienced this?
3.) Is building the wooden block that represents the spar really necessary?
Isn't the distance between the F-704A and F-704B determined by the F-704H x
2?
Thankx again
Steve
RV-7A
Kingston, Ontario
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Just where can you find Fuel Lube?
Chris S RV8 Working on fuel lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello all,
I have the chance to buy a
complete rv-6 still in the crates.It
was bought and never started. There is
no damage at all and wanted to know how
much it is worth.He said make offer but
I'm not sure what it's worth.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
I did not build my RV so I am forced to use an A&P for the annual.
The mechanic seems to think that all of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to be
complied with. I am under the impression that since this is an
experimental, there is no need. I am trying to avoid the oil pump impeller
AD which is costly. Anyone out there know the answer AND can cite chapter
and verse? Thanks
mailto:rblum(at)pacbell.net
Bob Blum
N710EH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Any of the mail order places, or at a local FBO. I got mine in a parts shop
by the airport. They repack it into small makeup sized tins, which is very
handy, considering that is enough to do about 3 airplanes. The large thing
you buy from spruce and such you will never use up!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Lube
>
> Just where can you find Fuel Lube?
>
> Chris S RV8 Working on fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Question |
Tom,
On my King 135a there is a jumper wire on the back
of the radio to enable a side tone.
ray,
rv6a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Question
>
> Tom Gummo said:
> > When I transmit, I can't hear a "sidetone" or my own voice
> > while talking.
>
> I don't know about the King but some radios have a pot that you can adjust
> for more or less sidetone. On my terra its adjusted with a small
screwdriver
> through a little hole in the housing (radio needs to be removed to access
> it.) There should be something about it in the radio's manual.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Aahh er, a few notes on wheel alignment.
Toe is distance between wheel fronts vs wheel rears
Toe-in is fronts closer than rears
Camber is distance between wheel tops vs bottoms
Negative is tops in
Castor is the angle fore or aft that the steering pivot axis for a steerable
wheel pivots on.
Motorcycles and nose gears call this rake. The more positive castor, or rake
the more stable it is but the less steerable it is. Chopper motorcycles have
maximum rake. Cessnas have minimum rake.
Steering inclination is this same angle but it's a measure of pivot axis
inboard or outboard rather than fore and aft.
Trail is the distance between the pivot line of the steerable wheel and the
axel of the same wheel. The combination of rake and trail on motorcycles and
many tricycle aircraft puts the axel in front of and above the steering
pivot line causing steering centering due to the weight of the vehicle. In a
tail wheel the axel line is behind the pivot line. The pivot line should
just about vertical. If it has a slight rearward rake (Bottom end aft of top
end) this will tend to straighten the tail wheel. If its the other way
around and you release the steering lock the wheel will pivot forward and
you will look really silly out on the runup ramp climbing out to lift up
your tail and reset your tailwheel. (Been there, done that)
The previous discussion on toe-in isn't taking into account the flexibility
of the gear. The reason for toe-in in cars is that the wheel assembly and
steering linkages all have some flexibility and play. As the vehicle turns
the wheel is side loaded some. If it is toed-out the outboard wheel will
flex to toed-in, and this will cause the wheel to "jump" to a new track. The
way it feels is like taking a step while doing straight legged monster
immitations, shifting weight from one foot to the other. As you begin to
turn the car suddenly shifts weight to the outside wheel as it shifts from
toe-out to toe-in on a new, tighter track.
If it has slight toe-in instead, then it will still shift weight due to
centrifugal force but it will be more gradual. And I have tested this many
times in both cars and aircraft, as I was the shop foreman in several shops,
both aircraft and auto, that provided alignment services amongst other
things.
In all cases the normal specified amount of toe-in is less than 1 degree to
none. Front of tire to rear of tire should be within 1/16" or less. The most
accurate way to measure this is to set a lasar protractor on the wheel rim
and project the beam out 20 ft either way to your tape measure, measuring to
an accurate projected centerline of the aircraft, then use a little math to
back calculate the actual toe for each wheel.
Another part of this discussion that makes it all a little mute is braking.
These gear will flex to toe-out if any brake is applied. And from what I've
seen of most of the newer rudder pedal assemblies is you can't apply rudder
without inadvertanly applying a little brake. At least this is true for 6's
and 8's. I know this because I've tested a number of them. Just have someone
rock your plane back and forth while you stuff in some rudder pedal and see
if the brake drags. The pedal pivot points are too low, and once again,
Van's doesn't consider this to be a problem.
One final note; Don't trust Vans predrilled alignment. Mine were: left 2 3/4
deg toe-out, right 1 7/8 deg toe-out. This wore a set of tires out in the
first 15 TO&L operations because the dummy (me) still trusted Vans in all
things measureable.
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: marker beacon/transponder ant |
dear listers
how close can the marker beacon antenia be to the transponder antenia?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
A fellow who sold his RV in this area ran into the same problem. The buyer
stipulated that the plane undergo a condition inspection by an A&P. The A&P
required that the ADs be complied with. It was an expensive condition
inspection. I believe that most A&Ps will require AD compliance, regs
notwithstanding. I keep a service bulletin and AD compliance log with my
plane to maintain its salability.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Blum" <bob(at)theblums.net>
Subject: RV-List: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's
>
> I did not build my RV so I am forced to use an A&P for the annual.
>
> The mechanic seems to think that all of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to
be
> complied with. I am under the impression that since this is an
> experimental, there is no need. I am trying to avoid the oil pump
impeller
> AD which is costly. Anyone out there know the answer AND can cite chapter
> and verse? Thanks
> mailto:rblum(at)pacbell.net
>
> Bob Blum
> N710EH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
Bob,
I have seen the shaft in a o-360
that was not changed and broke 10,000
oh-o even if it exp. I would still have
the ad's complied with they are there
for a reason "to keep you alive" just a
thought.
Jeff Garrett
RV-7a
812W reserved
Blum
>
>I did not build my RV so I am forced
to use an A&P for the annual.
>
>The mechanic seems to think that all
of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to be
>complied with. I am under the
impression that since this is an
>experimental, there is no need. I am
trying to avoid the oil pump impeller
>AD which is costly. Anyone out there
know the answer AND can cite chapter
>and verse? Thanks
>mailto:rblum(at)pacbell.net
>
>Bob Blum
>N710EH
>
>
>_-
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>_-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Considering you can buy a -7 for $16,000 I wouldn't pay more than about
$12,000 for it, if it has the finish kit.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Kit
<FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
>
> Hello all,
> I have the chance to buy a
> complete rv-6 still in the crates.It
> was bought and never started. There is
> no damage at all and wanted to know how
> much it is worth.He said make offer but
> I'm not sure what it's worth.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Wing Skin Fit Problem :-( |
Ok, guys, I got the main ribs clecoed to the Front and Rear spars and
decided to trial fit the top skins to make sure everything looked like
it was going to fit ok. The inboard skin does not fit the holes in the
Frt. spar like they should. The out board skin fits great. Here are some
pictures of the problem. If you are past this in the building process,
please let me know if you had the same fit and how you went about
getting it to fit better. I did try the other skin and it fit the same
way.
Here is a link to the pictures:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WingSkinFit.html
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
No chapter and verse yet, but I am looking.
Just ask the A&P which AD's would apply if you had a Chevy engine, or
Mazda, or Briggs & Stratton, etc....
Sam Buchanan
====================
Bob Blum wrote:
>
>
> I did not build my RV so I am forced to use an A&P for the annual.
>
> The mechanic seems to think that all of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to be
> complied with. I am under the impression that since this is an
> experimental, there is no need. I am trying to avoid the oil pump impeller
> AD which is costly. Anyone out there know the answer AND can cite chapter
> and verse? Thanks
> mailto:rblum(at)pacbell.net
>
> Bob Blum
> N710EH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Fuse Jig North Texas |
My fuselage is now out of the jig!!!
The all-wooden jig (used successfully for 2 RV-6s) is available for free
if anyone needs it. It is located at Wichita Valley Airport in Wichita
Falls, Texas. (About 2 hours north of Fort Worth). Contact me if
interested.
Happy Building,
Jordan Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Gun Problem |
I have a small 'detail' paint gun that I got from Harbor Freight.
Periodically, when I'm trying to spray Vari-Prime on some parts, the gun
will get all messed up and it will not 'atomize' the paint. The paint
comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
a sudden, its perfect again!
Can anyone tell me what is causing this kind of painting problem?
Thanks guys,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G (reserved)
Painting fuselage parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-( |
It's been a long time for me to remember...but it seems like on my -6 there
were inboard top skins and inboard bottom skins. Take a look a switching
some skins...
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-(
>
> Ok, guys, I got the main ribs clecoed to the Front and Rear spars and
> decided to trial fit the top skins to make sure everything looked like
> it was going to fit ok. The inboard skin does not fit the holes in the
> Frt. spar like they should. The out board skin fits great. Here are some
> pictures of the problem. If you are past this in the building process,
> please let me know if you had the same fit and how you went about
> getting it to fit better. I did try the other skin and it fit the same
> way.
>
> Here is a link to the pictures:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WingSkinFit.html
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Starting RV7A wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill or Heather Cowden" <cowdens(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | rear seat rudder pedals |
I have decided to not install the pedals I bought. They are powder
coated white. Vans gets $92 for them, let me know what you are willing
to give.
I also want to go with electric aileron trim and am willing to sell or
trade up my manual set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Seems like I remember seeing a kit of this nature that was about a 1991
vintage. If the one you are looking at is similar to this one....a lot has
been changed since then that decreases the labor, changed the design , new
enhancements, etc., that this kit will not have and could add additional
costs to the builder in this situation. These things should be taken into
account in determing value. Sometimes bargains don't turn out to be
bargains...and then again, sometimes they become a deal of the lifetime! I
guess it is like a used car....worth what ever someone will pay.
I would get an experienced RV'er and have them look the kit over, get with
Van's and see what the approximate cost of the kit was(if not known) and
shoot them a price if it looks like something you could live with.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Kit
<FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
>
> Hello all,
> I have the chance to buy a
> complete rv-6 still in the crates.It
> was bought and never started. There is
> no damage at all and wanted to know how
> much it is worth.He said make offer but
> I'm not sure what it's worth.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
There are three answers to paint gun problems that I'm really familiar with
:-)
1 Plugged vent hole.
2 Spray nozzle not TIGHT.
3 Paint not strained and the proper viscosity.
good luck
Dave "ex body and fender" Burton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
Try playing around with the air pressure and the "screw" for the amount of
paint used. I've had similar problems with my "touch up" paint gun and
don't really know the answer, maybe someone on the List will know. Try
putting a marble in the paint cup to enable you to keep the paint stirred
well.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: RV-List: Paint Gun Problem
>
> I have a small 'detail' paint gun that I got from Harbor Freight.
> Periodically, when I'm trying to spray Vari-Prime on some parts, the gun
> will get all messed up and it will not 'atomize' the paint. The paint
> comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
> settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
> back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
> fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
> a sudden, its perfect again!
>
> Can anyone tell me what is causing this kind of painting problem?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G (reserved)
> Painting fuselage parts.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
in 1987 to 1989 kits were about $7,600 that is what I paid for mine during
the time I was building it in 87-89. I would say the kits have increased
in value about 3% per year. Take that into consideration and then make offer
based on age of kit. I would offer somewhat less than the original price
depending on age.
Jerry
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Considering you can buy a -7 for $16,000 I wouldn't pay more than about
> $12,000 for it, if it has the finish kit.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Kit
>
> <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
> >
> > Hello all,
> > I have the chance to buy a
> > complete rv-6 still in the crates.It
> > was bought and never started. There is
> > no damage at all and wanted to know how
> > much it is worth.He said make offer but
> > I'm not sure what it's worth.
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
Dear Jordan:
I have a different paint gun but it has an annular chamber around the needle
that gets completely full of pigment over time so it must be dis-assembled
and cleaned. Paint has an amazing amount of pigment.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> the gun
> will get all messed up and it will not 'atomize' the paint. The paint
> comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
> settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
> back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
> fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
> a sudden, its perfect again!
> Jordan Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
My 93 kit cost me around $11,500 and that is before the prepunch. I
probably would not offer more than $8-10K if it is the complete kit. Yes,
the prepunch ones cost more nowadays, but consider the amount of labor hours
saved I would have gladly paid todays asking price back then.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Kit
<FtpBandit@web-unwired.net>
>
> Hello all,
> I have the chance to buy a
> complete rv-6 still in the crates.It
> was bought and never started. There is
> no damage at all and wanted to know how
> much it is worth.He said make offer but
> I'm not sure what it's worth.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "S. D. & D. D." <durosset(at)fidnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Kit on Ebay |
Here is one for those who are interested...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1697333492&r=0&t=0&sh
owTutorial=0&ed=1012833868&indexURL=0&rd=1
Darryl DuRossette
RV-3 in many pieces
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
I used the nav antenna in my Stinson for years for the FM radio - just use a nav
coupler and connect it as if it's another nav radio.
Dave -6, So Cal
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:The VOR frequencies are 108 to 118 Mhz. FM
frequencies end at 108 Mhz, right
> below the VOR frequencies. A VOR antenna should still work pretty well
> between 88.9 Mhz and 108 Mhz, especially with the output power of the FM
> stations.
>
> Jim Ayers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | GPS antenna connector |
My GPS antenna has a screw on type female end. My coax cable has a BNC
female end. How do I connect the two? Is there some fancy male/male
TNC/BNC connector?
Ross Mickey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Power supply for strobe lights |
Would someone help me understand the advantages and disadvantages of a
separate power supply for each strobe. I want to have three strobes, one on
each wing and one on the rudder. I also plan to have exterior (not wing tip)
antennas on the belly of the fuselage. My two primary objectives are:
1. maximum brightness, and
2. minimum communication interference.
If my antenna leads do not run down my wings but are on the fuselage, do I
need separate strobe power supplies? If yes, do I need three supplies? Are
the systems sold by Van's good? Thanks.
Pete Hunt
RV6 QB - attaching ailerons
N216PH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
In a message dated 02/02/2002 8:58:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com writes:
> The paint
> comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
> settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
> back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
> fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
> a sudden, its perfect again!
>
> Can anyone tell me what is causing this kind of painting problem?
>
Jordan,
Check to see if the gun has a little vent hole in the cap that's plugged up
with primer.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Ailerons
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Paint gun problems |
Jordan,
Not knocking you but, when it comes to paint guns, like everything
else...you get what you pay for!
We've tried those "cheapie" guns in the past for just primer (back
before catalyzed and two-part stuff) and I can tell you...they ain't
worth the hassle to start with IMHO.
With any gun you need to throughly clean it after each use. That
includes breaking it down to clean it.
Smaller guns like the Binks 15 (what harbour Freight's touch up guns are
fashioned after) and simular "touch-up" guns are even more critical
because their ports and nozzles are so much smaller compared to
production guns.
One of the biggest problems with the "Taiwan guns" is they aren't made
that well to start with. The fluid nozzles don't seal well and the air
caps are poorly made. They are just different enough (Copyright Laws)
that none of Binks parts will fit. What your problem sounds like is
several problems combined.
First VariPrime has a pot life of 72 hours. After that it will spray
just as you discribe. It doesn't harden in the cup for days and days.
Another cause could be the fluid nozzle or air cap, or both are not
tight and/or sealing properly. They both work together to create a
pressure differential so the product is drawn up the pick-up tube,
through the fluid nozzle and atomized by the air cap. your pick-up tube
could be occluded too if your not breaking it down and cleaning it.
your local PBE supplier should have a cleaning brush kit to clean you
gun with.
One last thing. You don't need to use expensive MEK to clean you gun.
Ask you PBE guy for some "Wash Thinner". It's a lot cheaper and does a
great job.
My suggestion is get a good gun like the Binks 18 or simular. It's made
for light production and has a nice spread for panel work yet, it can be
"turned down" for small parts without much overspray and still have a
nice pattern. One of ours is nearing 30 years old without any problems
other than a kit every couple of years.
Hope this helps...
Jim D. N708JD
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
Hi Jordan,
I think I've got the same gun. My problem was that I was trying to use the
gun's paint cup as my mixing cup. Big no-no, it seems. The thick stuff would
go straight to the bottom and the reducer never really mixed properly. I'd
waste half the cup trying to get the mixture to atomize. Some friends of mine
politely told me that I am truly as dumb as I look and that I need to invest
in a separate mixing cup AND a strainer/funnel. $2.50 and a trip to the local
paint supply store later, the gun seems to have healed itself. Operator
error.... gets me every time!
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
RV-3 #11339 under way
In a message dated 2/2/02 6:58:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com writes:
> I have a small 'detail' paint gun that I got from Harbor Freight.
> Periodically, when I'm trying to spray Vari-Prime on some parts, the gun
> will get all messed up and it will not 'atomize' the paint. The paint
> comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
> settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
> back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
> fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
> a sudden, its perfect again!
>
> Can anyone tell me what is causing this kind of painting problem?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G (reserved)
> Painting fuselage parts.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
In a message dated 2/2/02 8:58:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com writes:
<< I have a small 'detail' paint gun that I got from Harbor Freight.
Periodically, when I'm trying to spray Vari-Prime on some parts, the gun
will get all messed up and it will not 'atomize' the paint. The paint
comes out very splotchy, not a smooth, even coat. So I play with the
settings, blow some MEK through it, take some parts off and then put it
back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to
fiddle with it for a long time to get it to work again. And then, all of
a sudden, its perfect again!
Can anyone tell me what is causing this kind of painting problem? >>
I have a small touch up gun too. It experienced a similar problem
(repeatedly), which I traced to a seal in the gun getting dry. Usually, the
problem occurred when I was priming stuff outside in fading sunlight, and had
absolutely no time to spend on fixing spray problems. As it turns out,
vari-prime can be applied using a flashlight for illumination...
If you've got the same gun, unscrew the needle assembly and set the needle
and spring aside. There is a little "cap" that the needle passes through as
it enters the head of the gun. Remove this cap and extract the little cork
seal that fits down inside the cap. Clean the seal with MEK, or your solvent
of choice, then lubricate it with a drop of air tool oil or a smear of
chapstick before reassembing the gun. This entire operation will take about
2 minutes and the gun will work just fine (until the next spray session).
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | flexible fuel line |
I'm using Van's Airflow Performance fuel pump kit that mounts on the
floor. I want to hook up 2 flexible lines to hook up the fuel filter
that mounts beside the pump so when the filter is cleaned I can dismount
the filter to control any fuel spillage. Since I know nothing about
these flexible fuel lines yet--how flexible are they? One of my lines
has to make a 180 deg. turn in about a 4 inch radius. To control cost I
would like to avoid the costly 45 and 90 deg. fittings. Is there one
better hose to use since I see there are nearly a dozen choices of hose
to use?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Rott" <ejrott(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-( |
I just fitted these on my 7A and they fit perfectly. On your web page is
that a picture of your right wing? If it is the left wing then you have the
skins on the wrong side. Good luck.
John RV7A Wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-(
>
> It's been a long time for me to remember...but it seems like on my -6
there
> were inboard top skins and inboard bottom skins. Take a look a switching
> some skins...
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
> To: "RV-List" ; "RV7and7A"
>
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-(
>
>
> >
> > Ok, guys, I got the main ribs clecoed to the Front and Rear spars and
> > decided to trial fit the top skins to make sure everything looked like
> > it was going to fit ok. The inboard skin does not fit the holes in the
> > Frt. spar like they should. The out board skin fits great. Here are some
> > pictures of the problem. If you are past this in the building process,
> > please let me know if you had the same fit and how you went about
> > getting it to fit better. I did try the other skin and it fit the same
> > way.
> >
> > Here is a link to the pictures:
> > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WingSkinFit.html
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > Starting RV7A wings :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
Bob,
There are two completely different schools of thought on this one.
#1, Keep the engine certified and comply with ALL AD's. Costly, and
contrary to prior belief, not all AD's are issued out of safety concerns.
Yeah, the oil pump impellers were weak on some engines, but if you ask and
"old-time" engine builder who has seen hundreds of them, they will tell you
that they'll easily last 8,000 hours before they need replacing, as does
other parts of the engine. I know I'm going to get flamed for this, but I
used to work for an Aircraft Mfg. (who will remain un-named) who was pushing
for a serious AD on the wood wing spars. Why, not because they were faily
(they had small cracks, but nothing concerning safety of flight) but the
real reason was that this particular Mfg. had the ONLY metal wing you can
buy. No matter what people think, plain old money still drives a lot of
things. That being said, there are still some very serious AD's, especially
on the H2AD that definately must be complied with if you plan on using the
engine very long, however the oil pump AD is not one of them.
#2, Let some AD's expire and make the engine experimental. This is what
I've done with my AEIO-360. Since I'm putting and "experimental" sensenich
prop on it, it makes no difference whether or not the engine is certified.
I still will have 40 hrs. to fly off.
I have complied with the important AD's, but will not be complying with the
Oil Pump AD, as my engine only has 600hrs SNEW, and the original set will
most likely last me until I overhaul the engine, at which time I'll comply
with the AD.
I know I'm walking on thin ice here concerning peoples strong opinions about
AD's, but I've been around the block a few times working with airplanes from
Citabrias to 747's and everything in between. While I by no means know
everything, I DO know that some AD's can be left.
If you can't find anyone to give you a straight answer, I'd be happy to come
inspect your plane for you as I'm an A&P that's current. Contact me off
list and I'd be happy to discuss this issue with you.`
Please remember this is just my humble opinion and should be taken as such.
Each person needs to make up their own mind reagarding AD's, etc.. for
engines installed on experimental aircraft.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Almost finished with the finish kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Blum
Subject: RV-List: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's
I did not build my RV so I am forced to use an A&P for the annual.
The mechanic seems to think that all of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to be
complied with. I am under the impression that since this is an
experimental, there is no need. I am trying to avoid the oil pump impeller
AD which is costly. Anyone out there know the answer AND can cite chapter
and verse? Thanks
mailto:rblum(at)pacbell.net
Bob Blum
N710EH
________________________________________________________________________________
>I did not build my RV so I am forced to use an A&P for the annual.
The mechanic seems to think that all of the AD's in my O320 H2ad need to be
complied with. I am under the impression that since this is an
experimental, there is no need. I am trying to avoid the oil pump impeller
AD which is costly. Anyone out there know the answer AND can cite chapter
and verse? Thanks<
Well well well...
Maybe we can re-start the recent flame war over "airplane" vs "auto" engines
and resale value about now?? How valuable is an Lycoming-equipped aircraft
engine with a bunch of non-complied AD's? Would it be less valuable than a
subaru-equipped airplane? Or, from a buyer's perspective, would it be "more
valuable", yet so expensive to bring into compliance that the extra "value"
evaporates??
Hmmmmm..... Just thinking out loud for the benefit of all you
Lycosaur-lovers out there!
Ed Winne
RV9A (haven't bought an engine yet)
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HELP my O320 H2ad and AD's |
Bob,
I believe the oil pump ad is a reasonable one to comply
with. I have replaced a few and some have not been changed
for previous ad's. You can find a new gear and shaft for around
$235 which will be fine if the housing is compatible and serviceable.
I have done them with the engine on the airplane and it is no big deal.
Of course you will probably be paying for labor.
Stewart RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Problem |
In a message dated 2/2/2002 6:23:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dburton(at)nwlink.com writes:
>
> 1 Plugged vent hole.
> 2 Spray nozzle not TIGHT.
> 3 Paint not strained and the proper viscosity.
>
>
4 Packing around needle leaking.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-( |
John Rott wrote:
>
> I just fitted these on my 7A and they fit perfectly. On your web page is
> that a picture of your right wing? If it is the left wing then you have the
> skins on the wrong side. Good luck.
>
> John RV7A Wings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-(
>
> >
> > It's been a long time for me to remember...but it seems like on my -6
> there
> > were inboard top skins and inboard bottom skins. Take a look a switching
> > some skins...
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok -6
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
> > To: "RV-List" ; "RV7and7A"
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Wing Skin Fit Problem :-(
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Ok, guys, I got the main ribs clecoed to the Front and Rear spars and
> > > decided to trial fit the top skins to make sure everything looked like
> > > it was going to fit ok. The inboard skin does not fit the holes in the
> > > Frt. spar like they should. The out board skin fits great. Here are some
> > > pictures of the problem. If you are past this in the building process,
> > > please let me know if you had the same fit and how you went about
> > > getting it to fit better. I did try the other skin and it fit the same
> > > way.
> > >
> > > Here is a link to the pictures:
> > > http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WingSkinFit.html
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > Starting RV7A wings :-)
Yes, it is the right wing! I have double checked to insure I have the correct
skins in the correct positions. I will be going to the hanger again today and
check it out again. Looks like I will be contacting Vans monday on this one I
think the hols are just too far off to try and use. I'll check the bottom skins
today also.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming oil impeller AD |
I bought a Lycoming IO-360B4A to which AD96-09-10 applied. In checking with
my mechanic, we discovered this AD references two types of oil impellers -
the first was made of sintered iron, the second was made of aluminum. To
find out which type of impeller you have you need to check your serial
number against the serial numbers outlined in this AD.
My mechanic said he has performed this AD on many O-320 & O-360 engines,
and invariably, the sintered iron impeller showed signs of wear, some of
which were severely worn. He said however, that he had never found an
aluminum impeller with significant wear.
My engine has the aluminum impeller, so I feel I can operate the engine
safely, but resale is certainly an issue to consider.............
FWIW Walt Shipley RV8A Flying soon?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alisonandneil" <alisonandneil(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank fitting safety |
I'm ready to close up my tanks after doing the inverted fuel system mods.
The question I have is, is there any need to safety the threaded fittings in
the flop tube. I do not want these, or any other fuel fittings fittings to
come apart in flight yet there seems to be no provision to safety these.
Neil
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank fitting safety |
I put some pro seal on these as will as pro sealing in the o-ring on the end
of the pickup.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A - almost done
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of alisonandneil
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank fitting safety
I'm ready to close up my tanks after doing the inverted fuel system mods.
The question I have is, is there any need to safety the threaded fittings in
the flop tube. I do not want these, or any other fuel fittings fittings to
come apart in flight yet there seems to be no provision to safety these.
Neil
-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Larsen" <larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net> |
| Subject: | Speaking of Tank Fittings |
I just finished installing my vent fitting to the inboard tank rib. I used
a washer on each side of the rib which snugged the fitting up nicely in test
fit. After pro sealing and tightening the nut firmly I can rotate the
fitting using a fair amount of finger power. Do you think the fresh pro
seal is acting as a lubricant and will be fine when it sets, or should I
clean it all up and re-inspect while I can?
Jim
-6 tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel tank fitting safety
>
> I put some pro seal on these as will as pro sealing in the o-ring on the
end
> of the pickup.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A - almost done
> Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/2/02 3:21:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Just where can you find Fuel Lube? >>
Aircraft Spruce, page 314 of 2001/2002 catalog (Fuelube, PN 09-25300)
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/2/02 4:22:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
<< One final note; Don't trust Vans predrilled alignment. Mine were: left 2
3/4
deg toe-out, right 1 7/8 deg toe-out. This wore a set of tires out in the
first 15 TO&L operations because the dummy (me) still trusted Vans in all
things measureable. >>
Good explanation, thanks, but I'm left with one nagging question. How did
you fix the above misalignment?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of Tank Fittings |
Let the pro seal set up. It is wonderful stuff.
Carl.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Larsen
Subject: RV-List: Speaking of Tank Fittings
I just finished installing my vent fitting to the inboard tank rib. I used
a washer on each side of the rib which snugged the fitting up nicely in test
fit. After pro sealing and tightening the nut firmly I can rotate the
fitting using a fair amount of finger power. Do you think the fresh pro
seal is acting as a lubricant and will be fine when it sets, or should I
clean it all up and re-inspect while I can?
Jim
-6 tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel tank fitting safety
>
> I put some pro seal on these as will as pro sealing in the o-ring on the
end
> of the pickup.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A - almost done
> Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cowl fit - clearance for paint |
How much gap are you leaving between the upper and lower cowl halves and
beteeen the cowl and fuselage to allow for paint?
Thanks in advance.
-Don
RV8 - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Thanks one and all for the info.
Chris RV8 80881 Slicker fittings from now on.
Festus MO.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gun problems |
Thanks to all that replied!
Just before I sent that message, I decided to soak the whole gun in some MEK
overnight to try to get as much of the old Vari-Prime out of it as possible.
Today, after reading the replies, I decided to take it apart and make sure I
cleaned as much of the inside as possible. So far, so good. Unfortunately,
when I went to put it back together, the rubber seals in the gun
disintegrated! They may have been worn out already, but my guess is that the
MEK softened them up and then I finished them off when I tried to stuff it
all back together.
So much for that $20 Harbor Freight spray gun - I don't think finding and
buying new seals for that thing would be worth the time and expense. I guess
I'll go buy a new, fancier one. Anybody know where I can get one of those
Binks guns?
Thanks again,
Jordan Grant
N198G (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Duckett" <perfeng(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Paint gun problems
>
> Jordan,
> Not knocking you but, when it comes to paint guns, like everything
> else...you get what you pay for!
> We've tried those "cheapie" guns in the past for just primer (back
> before catalyzed and two-part stuff) and I can tell you...they ain't
> worth the hassle to start with IMHO.
> With any gun you need to throughly clean it after each use. That
> includes breaking it down to clean it.
> Smaller guns like the Binks 15 (what harbour Freight's touch up guns are
> fashioned after) and simular "touch-up" guns are even more critical
> because their ports and nozzles are so much smaller compared to
> production guns.
> One of the biggest problems with the "Taiwan guns" is they aren't made
> that well to start with. The fluid nozzles don't seal well and the air
> caps are poorly made. They are just different enough (Copyright Laws)
> that none of Binks parts will fit. What your problem sounds like is
> several problems combined.
> First VariPrime has a pot life of 72 hours. After that it will spray
> just as you discribe. It doesn't harden in the cup for days and days.
> Another cause could be the fluid nozzle or air cap, or both are not
> tight and/or sealing properly. They both work together to create a
> pressure differential so the product is drawn up the pick-up tube,
> through the fluid nozzle and atomized by the air cap. your pick-up tube
> could be occluded too if your not breaking it down and cleaning it.
> your local PBE supplier should have a cleaning brush kit to clean you
> gun with.
> One last thing. You don't need to use expensive MEK to clean you gun.
> Ask you PBE guy for some "Wash Thinner". It's a lot cheaper and does a
> great job.
> My suggestion is get a good gun like the Binks 18 or simular. It's made
> for light production and has a nice spread for panel work yet, it can be
> "turned down" for small parts without much overspray and still have a
> nice pattern. One of ours is nearing 30 years old without any problems
> other than a kit every couple of years.
> Hope this helps...
> Jim D. N708JD
> Performance Engineering
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Jordan,
You found out what I forgot to mention in my last post....they use
cheaper gaskets and seals that degrade when intorduced to MEK or Toulene.
Your best bet for finding a good gun at a fair price is your local PBE
supplier. look in your phone book under Autobody Suppliers or Paint,
Body, and Equipment Suppliers. Places like NAPA and Home Depot
generally have the same or just a little better quality than what Harbor
Freight does.
Also, there are some good less expensive HVLP guns out there, like the
DeVilbliss "Finish Line", that work very well but, they are far more
critical as far as cleaning goes. IMHO I'd say stay with Binks or
DeVilbliss for quality, price, parts, and performance.
Another inexpensive way to properly mix your products is to take a
wooden mixing stick and measure what you think you'll need. Use a ruler
and mark the stick with a ball point pen. VariPrime is a 1:1 Ratio.
The average paint cup is 5" so a full cup of ready to shoot product
would be 2.5" of primer and 2.5" of converter. Just mix what you need
in the cup, stir and shoot. Immediately clean your gun after your done
shooting!
One thing to point out is that ALL the products on the market now are
very "Ratio Critical". That is when they say "One to One" they mean
1:1, not kinda close.
Hope this is helping...
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Okay, you guys are an opinionated bunch (and I mean that in the highest
regard (uh huh, right)) and I need some opinions. I have one more hose to
make. It's the oil line that runs from the engine to the oil cooler. The
problem is that I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall about 6-8 inches
from the fitting on the engine. My buddies tell me there is no way to get a
straight hose run from there to the bottom of the oil cooler. Suggestions
are to either make a long loop or else connect it to the top of the oil
cooler and connect the oil return line at the bottom. Any reasons why this
could not be done? Any other suggestions? I'm using Aeroquip 303 hose
w/firesleeve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Hose Help |
Hi Scott,
My "opinion" is if you don't like the idea of a long looped hose move the
oil cooler. The reason a very short hose won't work has to do with engine
movement which will destroy the short line.
As for the oil line attachment top or bottom, look in the archives and go
with the best advice you can get out of Vans or failing that, your nearest
homebuilt friendly aircraft mechanic.
In any case do allow enough length between anything connecting the engine
and firewall keeping in mind engine movement and its effects on such
connections.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Hose Help
>
> Okay, you guys are an opinionated bunch (and I mean that in the highest
> regard (uh huh, right)) and I need some opinions. I have one more hose to
> make. It's the oil line that runs from the engine to the oil cooler. The
> problem is that I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall about 6-8 inches
> from the fitting on the engine. My buddies tell me there is no way to get
a
> straight hose run from there to the bottom of the oil cooler. Suggestions
> are to either make a long loop or else connect it to the top of the oil
> cooler and connect the oil return line at the bottom. Any reasons why
this
> could not be done? Any other suggestions? I'm using Aeroquip 303 hose
> w/firesleeve.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Wing Skin Fit Update |
I update my site with more pictures. I tried the inner top skin on the
other spar and it fit great. So what it boils down to is that the holes
in my RH Frt Spar between ribs 6 and 8 are off location by almost
1/32(too far inboard). I think, if I back drill the holes
from the spar to the skin, it will all work out ok.
Also my mail box messed up today and I lost three message before I could
read them from:
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com, peter decraene, and Agustin Aparicio Ortiz
Please send your message to me again.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Wing Skin Fit Update |
I update my site with more pictures. I tried the inner top skin on the
other spar and it fit great. So what it boils down to is that the holes
in my RH Frt Spar between ribs 6 and 8 are off location by almost
1/32(too far inboard). I think, if I back drill the holes
from the spar to the skin, it will all work out ok.
Also my mail box messed up today and I lost three message before I could
read them from:
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com, peter decraene, and Agustin Aparicio Ortiz
Please send your message to me again.
Woops! forgot the link:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/WingSkinFit.html
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I have some very very minor dents in my ailerons on top of course. Regardless
I would like to fix. Does anyone know if using Superfil on these thin control
surfaces is advisable? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Bob,
I'm using superfill to fill a few small dings (Ok, they're dents-and I won't
say how they got there, my bucking bar had a mind of it's own for a few
seconds...stupid thing) and mine too are on top of one aileron. As long as
you don't have too think of an application, you'll be fine.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
Almost ready for a hangar.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: aileron dents
I have some very very minor dents in my ailerons on top of course.
Regardless
I would like to fix. Does anyone know if using Superfil on these thin
control
surfaces is advisable? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aileron dent PROBLEM SOLVED |
Yes, I solved it. I now am going to order a new skin!!!!
The dents although minor were cased by the dimple die. I used the nail/blind
puller method-small semi circle from die. I thought I would REVERSE or in
other words set the dimple on the opposite side to get the crease out and
reset on the proper (top) side. I have had success a time or two, but not
with this thin a skin. When I tried this the entire dimple popped out. I now
have a 5 to 6/32 hole with no dimple. Yes, give me the dumb a__ __ award for
the month. I thought about going with a larger flush but it will stand out
like a sore thumb-at least to me. Way to big for an oops. Oh well....my wife
told me, "leave it alone your going to make it worse." Another hard lesson
learned. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Comeaux <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | PageMaker prompts you for the filter |
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in which they occur.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: rear seat rudder pedals |
I would keep the pedals and not install aileron trim. I have rear pedals and
aileron trim (manual).
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to rivet trim tab spar/skin/hinge? |
On Mon, 4 Feb 2002 Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com wrote:
>
> I've gotta ask...
> Is this some sort of diabolical torture test. If we can figure out how to
> close the trim tab out, we win the right to build the wings, right?
>
> I am using the squeezer with every funky, contrived, jury rig that I can
> come up with to give me clearance over the hinge eyes, yet still allow
> squeezing of the tail. Are there any thoughts on how to do this with only
> two hands?
I am building a -7 but the trim tab is essentially the same. IIRC it
wasn't that much trouble. First remove the extra half of the hinge by
pulling the hinge wire. You should be able to use any of the yokes,
except the flat nose undrilled one. I put the small 1/16" die on the
movable ram of the squeezer. The 1/16" die squeezes the shop head while
the fixed part of the yoke goes on the manufactured head. The ram comes
up nicely behind the rolled part of the hinge and lets you squeeze the
rivet. My 1/16" die is a smaller diameter than the thicker flat dies
and is the same diameter as the ram of my squeezer.
If you need pictures let me know and I will retrieve my trim tab from my
finished parts storage (mother-in-law's garage) and shoot some pictures.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
N14SE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
Hi fellow RVer's,
I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
panel was black and looked like it had some
sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
type of paint and how it is applied?
Thanks,
Gary Gunn,RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Ask Van's. They use the same thing for the RV-7 panel.
Steve
RV-7A
Kingston, Ont
>From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 09:20:03 -0700
>
>
>Hi fellow RVer's,
>I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
>panel was black and looked like it had some
>sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
>type of paint and how it is applied?
>
>Thanks,
>Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power supply for strobe lights |
Hey, Pete: I chose the single power unit for several reasons. I have the
power unit close to the firewall as possible putting the weight forward in
the -4. I have the wing tip lights with red/green and white with the strobe
in one unit. Again, less weight in the tail. I have NO strobe noise with the
lines running with other wires. I guess it comes down to where you want the
units to be. I'm not sure how much the wing tip power units weigh, but that
would be weight in the wing tips rather than in the fuselage. (So? You may
not even notice any effect).
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank baffle and skin to end ribs |
"rv-list-matronics.com"
I notice there's a small gap at the top and bottom corners where the skin,
baffle and end ribs of the fuel tanks come together. Do I need to plug this
with a small piece of aluminum, or will Proseal fill the holes when you push
the bafffle into place?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A wings
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank baffle and skin to end ribs |
I sealed mine with Proseal, then added another coat of it later on after the
first coat cured.
Jim Bower
Haven't leak tested tanks yet (pray for me)
>From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-9 List , "rv-list-matronics.com"
>
>Subject: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank baffle and skin to end ribs
>Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 09:23:50 -0800
>
>
>I notice there's a small gap at the top and bottom corners where the skin,
>baffle and end ribs of the fuel tanks come together. Do I need to plug this
>with a small piece of aluminum, or will Proseal fill the holes when you
>push
>the bafffle into place?
>
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A wings
>Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 Engine Cooling |
Hi,
I have a question regarding the air inlet/outlet area
ratio on an RV-6. Here is the configuration:
RV-6
O-360-A1A
3 Blade Wood Prop w/harmonic dampener
Old style polyester resin cowling.
inlet area = 42 square inches
outlet area = 41.5 square inches
The test pilot that might test fly my plane here in the
next couple of weeks insists that I need more outlet
area for proper cooling. He says the proper ratio
should be 1:1.5 - 1:2. Does it seem reasonable to start
enlarge the outlet area prior to the first flight per
his recommendation? He says that all the RV's he has
test flown have needed this modification.
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | pipe thread adapter |
Hi -
Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread on one
end and an 8D AN nipple on the other? My engine came plumbed a little
differently so I'm going to use a different port for the oil cooler return.
ACS had no idea.
Thanks.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank baffle and skin to end ribs |
Dear Mark:
Instructions for the -6 say to rivet a small piece of thin aluminum to the
rib web to reduce the size of this space.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> I notice there's a small gap at the top and bottom corners where the skin,
> baffle and end ribs of the fuel tanks come together. Do I need to plug
this
> with a small piece of aluminum, or will Proseal fill the holes when you
push
> the bafffle into place?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A wings
> Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A&P-IA Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Engine Cooling |
Glenn,
Same basic configuration except I've got a 2 blade prop. With a same stock
Van's cowl and baffle kit and firewall mounted oil cooler fed with a 3" scat
tube, mine cools absolutely fine. In fact it cools too well, so that on all
but the hottest days I've got to close off the oil cooler inlet with a
butterfly valve.
Fly it first and see, realizing that if your engine is new, it might take a
couple dozen hours till it starts to cool down. If it's still running hot,
figure out why. There is nothing wrong with Van's cowl design.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
>
>
> Hi,
> I have a question regarding the air inlet/outlet area
> ratio on an RV-6. Here is the configuration:
>
> RV-6
> O-360-A1A
> 3 Blade Wood Prop w/harmonic dampener
> Old style polyester resin cowling.
> inlet area = 42 square inches
> outlet area = 41.5 square inches
>
> The test pilot that might test fly my plane here in the
> next couple of weeks insists that I need more outlet
> area for proper cooling. He says the proper ratio
> should be 1:1.5 - 1:2. Does it seem reasonable to start
> enlarge the outlet area prior to the first flight per
> his recommendation? He says that all the RV's he has
> test flown have needed this modification.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Oil hose question |
I didn't see this show up on the list so I am re-posting the question.
I am finishing my RV-4. I have mounted my oil cooler on the firewall.
There is one hose I just can't seem to make fit. It is the hose that brings
the hot oil to the cooler. The two fittings are approx. 8 inches from one
another. A mechanic friend tells me that there is no good way to get a hose
in there. Either it will have to be very long or we'll have to use some
weird fittings which will involve removing my spin-on filter adapter. I
think it may work if I reverse the connections to the oil cooler. I have it
mounted vertically and had hot oil going in the bottom and out the top.
Would there be any problems reversing them as I think I'll get a better hose
run. C'mon I know you guys are an opinionated bunch, let me have some
opinions!
Should have mounted it like yours, Larry. :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Gary,
I believe that type of paint is referred to as "wrinkle finish" My father
used it in his AcroSport Biplane on his panel. Absolutely no glare. I have
seen it in a few rv's and others at Oshkosh. It should be available at any
automotive store. You spray it on and then bake it in an oven to get it to
wrinkle if I remember correctly.
Doug Bell
8 qb, Manistee, Mi
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>
> Hi fellow RVer's,
> I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
> panel was black and looked like it had some
> sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
> type of paint and how it is applied?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
Dear Parker:
To my knowledge there is no 5/8 NPT thread. Pipes are called out by nominal
ID.
Nominal ID - OD
1/16 - 0.3125
1/8 - 0.405
1/4 - 0.540
3/8 - 0.675
1/2 - 0.84
and on up
Maybe you have 3/8 pipe.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
Chapter and Verse
There is nothing in CFR14 Part 39 that exempts experimentals from
Airworthiness Directives, nor will there ever be. If it has a data plate
then the AD that specifies that data plate must be complied with as
described in the specific AD. If it has no data plate then it is difficult
to apply the AD as you don't know what the engine is. Even then, they can
issue the AD against the specific aircraft if there is reasonable cause to
believe a dangerous condition exists.
There have even been AD's directly issued against one line of Experimentals
using a specific engine regardless of whether the data plate was still
intact.
ADs can also be issued against individuals and FBOs as well. They are the
FAA's Big Hammer, to be used in the event that a dangerous condition exists.
And they can be issued against anything Aviation. And yes, the FAA has
abused this all encompassing power, but it hasn't happened very often.
The oil pump AD was a total bust for Lycoming, They decided to fix something
that didn't need fixing, then it did need fixing, then the unneeded fix's
fix needed fixing, and now they are mostly back to where they started. As of
mid last year all engines that incorporated these parts have to comply with
the AD. It will require a new oil pump housing, new gears and a drill hole
in the accessory case. If you're really good the old housing can have the
idler gear shaft pushed out and be machined .003" over so that the new shaft
that is now a part of the floating gear can spin freely. As far as I can
tell that's the only difference between the old and the new housings.
Generally most ADs that are issued are in response to the manufacturer's
findings. The FAA doesn't have the ability to keep up with every part of
every airplane, and the manufacturers are motivated to rat themselves out or
else face severe civil litigation issues.
But mostly I would consider that peace of mind while flying is worth a whole
lot more than the cost of complying with these ADs.
thx
Wheeler
IA, A&P Instructor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <RES0BI7W(at)verizon.net> |
I used the "crinkle paint" from a auto paint store on my panel. It didn't
need an oven but there were temperature limits on the can. I sat my panel
after spraying in the summer sunlight here in the desert and it worked fine.
However, I seem to remember a test not working properly as the temperature
was a little low.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Bell <dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: panel panel
>
> Gary,
> I believe that type of paint is referred to as "wrinkle finish" My father
> used it in his AcroSport Biplane on his panel. Absolutely no glare. I
have
> seen it in a few rv's and others at Oshkosh. It should be available at
any
> automotive store. You spray it on and then bake it in an oven to get it
to
> wrinkle if I remember correctly.
> Doug Bell
> 8 qb, Manistee, Mi
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>
>
> >
> > Hi fellow RVer's,
> > I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
> > panel was black and looked like it had some
> > sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
> > type of paint and how it is applied?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Gary Gunn,RV-6
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
My friend used wrinkle paint out of a rattle can no baking needed. Came out
good.
you can see his pane in Van's 2002 calendar March.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Oil hose question |
Scott,
You can plumb the oil cooler whichever way works best for you. The cooler
doesn't care which way the oil flows through it. There are "some" people
who believe that it must flow from bottom to top in order to remove air,
etc... but in reality it just doesn't matter that much. There is air in all
over in that engine, and the oil cooler doesn't act as an "air remover" as
some may lead you to believe.
Anyway, plumb it whichever way works best for your install.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch, A&P
RV6, MSP
Almost ready for the hgr.
I didn't see this show up on the list so I am re-posting the question.
I am finishing my RV-4. I have mounted my oil cooler on the firewall.
There is one hose I just can't seem to make fit. It is the hose that brings
the hot oil to the cooler. The two fittings are approx. 8 inches from one
another. A mechanic friend tells me that there is no good way to get a hose
in there. Either it will have to be very long or we'll have to use some
weird fittings which will involve removing my spin-on filter adapter. I
think it may work if I reverse the connections to the oil cooler. I have it
mounted vertically and had hot oil going in the bottom and out the top.
Would there be any problems reversing them as I think I'll get a better hose
run. C'mon I know you guys are an opinionated bunch, let me have some
opinions!
Should have mounted it like yours, Larry. :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
Gary, It's called wrinkle finish and can be mixed in any color at automotive
stores. You just spray it on like any other spray paint. As it dries it
dries to a wrinkle finish. It does not have to be baked or any other
special treatment.
Jim Streit
90073 wings
Gary Gunn wrote:
>
> Hi fellow RVer's,
> I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
> panel was black and looked like it had some
> sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
> type of paint and how it is applied?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alisonandneil" <alisonandneil(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to rivet trim tab spar/skin/hinge? |
I had no trouble squeezing those rivets either, I don't remember which yoke
I used though. Put the wire back in the side you are riveting after taking
the halves apart to help avoid damage.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to rivet trim tab spar/skin/hinge?
>
> On Mon, 4 Feb 2002 Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I've gotta ask...
> > Is this some sort of diabolical torture test. If we can figure out how
to
> > close the trim tab out, we win the right to build the wings, right?
> >
> > I am using the squeezer with every funky, contrived, jury rig that I can
> > come up with to give me clearance over the hinge eyes, yet still allow
> > squeezing of the tail. Are there any thoughts on how to do this with
only
> > two hands?
>
> I am building a -7 but the trim tab is essentially the same. IIRC it
> wasn't that much trouble. First remove the extra half of the hinge by
> pulling the hinge wire. You should be able to use any of the yokes,
> except the flat nose undrilled one. I put the small 1/16" die on the
> movable ram of the squeezer. The 1/16" die squeezes the shop head while
> the fixed part of the yoke goes on the manufactured head. The ram comes
> up nicely behind the rolled part of the hinge and lets you squeeze the
> rivet. My 1/16" die is a smaller diameter than the thicker flat dies
> and is the same diameter as the ram of my squeezer.
>
> If you need pictures let me know and I will retrieve my trim tab from my
> finished parts storage (mother-in-law's garage) and shoot some pictures.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
> filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
> on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
> help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
> N14SE reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
Hi,
I would like some info in two areas,
I am planning on mounting two com antennas in line under the fuselage
center. How close to the exhaust area would be OK. It seems that some
exhaust heat might be helpful to prevent ice accumulation if one
would blunder into icing. I would not want excess heat to affect the
antennas however. Any experience on his?
Does anyone have a positive method of sealing the forward edge of the
flip up canopy to prevent water leakage into the cockpit,
particularly into the avionics?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
> > > > > 1. I've smoked fatter joints than that.
> > > > > 2. Ahhhh, it's cute.
> > > > > 3. Why don't we just cuddle?
> > > > > 4. You know they have surgery to fix that.
> > > > > 5. Make it dance.
> > > > > 6. Can I paint a smiley face on it?
> > > > > 7. Wow, and your feet are so big.
> > > > > 8. It's OK, we'll work around it.
> > > > > 9. Will it squeak if I squeeze it?
> > > > > 10. Oh no... a flash headache.
> > > > > 11. (giggle and point)
> > > > > 12. Can I be honest with you?
> > > > > 13. How sweet, you brought incense.
> > > > > 14. This explains your car.
> > > > > 15. Maybe if we water it, it'll grow.
> > > > > 16. Why is God punishing me?
> > > > 17. At least this won't take long.
> > > > > 18. I never saw one like that before.
> > > > > 19. But it still works, right?
> > > > > 20. It looks so unused.
> > > > > 21. Maybe it looks better in natural light.
> > > > > 22. Why don't we skip right to the cigarettes?
> > > > > 23. Are you cold?
> > > > > 24. If you get me real drunk first.
> > > > > 25. Is that an optical illusion?
> > > > > 26. What is that?
> > > > > 27. It's a good thing you have so many other talents.
> > > > > 28. Does it come with an air pump?
> > > > > 29. So this is why you're supposed to judge people on personality.
> > > > > 30. I guess this makes me the early bird.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil hose question |
Scott:
My Aerosport 0-360 (non-flying RV-4) has a 45 degree steel fitting at the
"oil out to the cooler" port. The "oil in from the cooler" port is just to
the left and down from the breather outlet. My flying RV-4 (AEIO-360) also
is plumbed this way. I don't really see a problem in running hoses (I have
an oil filter adapter on both airplanes). According to Lycoming's book, it
is also permissible to use the port immediately below the breather port as a
"oil out to the cooler" port. A big issue with the RV-4 in the winter here
in MN/WI is trying to keep the oil temp up. I have my oil cooler blocked
off entirely and yet still only get around 140 degrees oil temp on a below
freezing day. A local RV-6 pilot has his oil lines plumbed using the
"outlet to the cooler" port below the breather. His oil temps stay right at
160-180 regardless of OAT and his cooler is not blocked at all. He claims
this routing allows oil temp to be better controlled by the veri-therm.
Don't know, but it seems to work for him.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
Black wrinkle finish in a spray can
>From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 09:20:03 -0700
>
>
>Hi fellow RVer's,
>I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
>panel was black and looked like it had some
>sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
>type of paint and how it is applied?
>
>Thanks,
>Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Joy Mosley, Mosley Living Trust, NABA, Inc." <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
George,
I've had excellent success with Van's stick on antenna. I have one on the
wind screen for com and another behind the roll bar for the ELT. Why would
you want all that drag from externals.
I had a leak on my tip up. I had installed the weather-strip on the fuselage
only. When I put another on the canopy, so the front of one touch the rear
edge of the other, the leak stopped. Give it a try.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
George,
In addition to a good quality seal on the canopy, I fabricated a marine
canvas cover that covers the entire top of the instrument panel. It velcros
to the back of the instrument panel and to the sub panel. It also velcros to
the top of the longerons. Should any water get by the seal, or when opening
the canopy in the rain, the canvas will stop it. Also looks good, and covers
all the wiring and plumbing behind the panel. Canvas is available in just
about any color you want.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eCharts <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | new RV Story video update |
To the 70 (+/-) people who gave a $50 or more donation to this list during the
recent annual fund raiser, and are anxiously awaiting your "thank you" copy of
the
promissed RV Story video.
According to Van's a few days ago, it will be available in 2-3 weeks. At this
point, labels are made, boxes are prepared, and the new videos will go out to you
the day they arrive.
For anybody who did not get a chance to participate in the fundraiser but who
still wants one of the new videos, they are now also available for pre-order on
Builders Bookstore on the "Van's RV Specific" page, also to be shipped in 2-3
weeks.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil hose question |
Scott:
The cooler will work fine with the hoses reversed.
George
N888GK
Flying
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
wrote:
> Scott"
>
> I didn't see this show up on the list so I am
> re-posting the question.
>
> I am finishing my RV-4. I have mounted my oil
> cooler on the firewall.
> There is one hose I just can't seem to make fit. It
> is the hose that brings
> the hot oil to the cooler. The two fittings are
> approx. 8 inches from one
> another. A mechanic friend tells me that there is
> no good way to get a hose
> in there. Either it will have to be very long or
> we'll have to use some
> weird fittings which will involve removing my
> spin-on filter adapter. I
> think it may work if I reverse the connections to
> the oil cooler. I have it
> mounted vertically and had hot oil going in the
> bottom and out the top.
> Would there be any problems reversing them as I
> think I'll get a better hose
> run. C'mon I know you guys are an opinionated
> bunch, let me have some
> opinions!
>
> Should have mounted it like yours, Larry. :-)
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Electric Flaps RV-4 installation drawings wanted. |
Evening all,
This RV building is a bit like playing with dominos!!
I installed underfloor lockers, then got hold of a Century 1 autopilot. The servo
fitted best on the left side of the fuselage due to the lockers. I next got
a good deal on a pair of infinity grips, with you've guessed it - auto-pilot
interrupt, but also a tempting set of electric flap and trim switches. Having
got another good deal on a trim servo (thanks Stein!) I am doing my wn take on
the Gretz manual to electric trim conversion. (The local CableCraft was able
to use the original trim cable to make several shorter cables).
NOW - the problem...... The push rod for the autopilot servo runs right through
where the electric flap actuator needs to be (normally that is!!) I have figured
out that a RV-6 actuator will work on the right hand side of the fuselage
allowing mirror image linkages to operate the flaps. I have installed the structure
to hold the motor end of the actuator ,using a RV-6 builder friends actuator
to check that the motor does not interfere with the torque tube, etc.
So far so good - BUT - trying to work out the appropriate linkages an so forth
to connect to the flap system, and the size and position for the arm to have my
tame welder put on the flap weldment is doing my head in !!
Please, please if anyone has a copy of the drawings for the RV-4 electric flap
conversion could you please contact me off-list at " jakent(at)unison.ie ".
Also , you may have guessed, I am in the market for a RV-6 electric flap actuator
- any offers??
Thanks ... John Kent (getting a little "off piste" (think about it!) with these
modifications! )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron pipe |
5/32" and if you are really anal, turn the head down to the 1/8 size.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron pipe
Is there an oops pop rivet for an oversized 1/8 inch hole?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps RV-4 installation drawings wanted. |
Hi John,
What about doing some 360's on the Airport roundabout on Monday and think of
a better solution for the sparks under the floor.........
Checked the ad's no luck sofar. The 1800 is a bit steep and I don't want to
spend that type of money before the garage goes up.
The pulsar is coming along nicely, just to sand the aft lower fuse tomorrow
and she'll be ready for paint. I was able to rent a spraybooth for 70/day
at the Tech where I'm doing the brickie course.
Missed out on the ma4-5 carb that was on the rv-list, sold before I could
contact your man. real shame too, 75 hrs TTSN.
Marcel
p.s have to come up soon to see your progress and paint interior?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gun problems |
Jordan, I have 2 Binks Guns and love both of them, MG-1 and MACH 1 HVLP
Pressure Feed and pot for painting upside down (Bottom of fuselage).
Contact Ron at 910-330-2901 in NC or go to his WebSite
www.discountautobodysupply.com for the best prices I know of and quick
service. If you don't see the model you want call him as he can get anything
you want. I have done a lot of auto restorations and Ron has always been an
honest guy to ask any paint related questions.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint gun problems
>
> Thanks to all that replied!
>
> Just before I sent that message, I decided to soak the whole gun in some
MEK
> overnight to try to get as much of the old Vari-Prime out of it as
possible.
> Today, after reading the replies, I decided to take it apart and make sure
I
> cleaned as much of the inside as possible. So far, so good. Unfortunately,
> when I went to put it back together, the rubber seals in the gun
> disintegrated! They may have been worn out already, but my guess is that
the
> MEK softened them up and then I finished them off when I tried to stuff it
> all back together.
>
> So much for that $20 Harbor Freight spray gun - I don't think finding and
> buying new seals for that thing would be worth the time and expense. I
guess
> I'll go buy a new, fancier one. Anybody know where I can get one of those
> Binks guns?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Jordan Grant
> N198G (reserved)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Duckett" <perfeng(at)3rivers.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Paint gun problems
>
>
> >
> > Jordan,
> > Not knocking you but, when it comes to paint guns, like everything
> > else...you get what you pay for!
> > We've tried those "cheapie" guns in the past for just primer (back
> > before catalyzed and two-part stuff) and I can tell you...they ain't
> > worth the hassle to start with IMHO.
> > With any gun you need to throughly clean it after each use. That
> > includes breaking it down to clean it.
> > Smaller guns like the Binks 15 (what harbour Freight's touch up guns are
> > fashioned after) and simular "touch-up" guns are even more critical
> > because their ports and nozzles are so much smaller compared to
> > production guns.
> > One of the biggest problems with the "Taiwan guns" is they aren't made
> > that well to start with. The fluid nozzles don't seal well and the air
> > caps are poorly made. They are just different enough (Copyright Laws)
> > that none of Binks parts will fit. What your problem sounds like is
> > several problems combined.
> > First VariPrime has a pot life of 72 hours. After that it will spray
> > just as you discribe. It doesn't harden in the cup for days and days.
> > Another cause could be the fluid nozzle or air cap, or both are not
> > tight and/or sealing properly. They both work together to create a
> > pressure differential so the product is drawn up the pick-up tube,
> > through the fluid nozzle and atomized by the air cap. your pick-up tube
> > could be occluded too if your not breaking it down and cleaning it.
> > your local PBE supplier should have a cleaning brush kit to clean you
> > gun with.
> > One last thing. You don't need to use expensive MEK to clean you gun.
> > Ask you PBE guy for some "Wash Thinner". It's a lot cheaper and does a
> > great job.
> > My suggestion is get a good gun like the Binks 18 or simular. It's made
> > for light production and has a nice spread for panel work yet, it can be
> > "turned down" for small parts without much overspray and still have a
> > nice pattern. One of ours is nearing 30 years old without any problems
> > other than a kit every couple of years.
> > Hope this helps...
> > Jim D. N708JD
> > Performance Engineering
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | training at Lycoming |
Hi Listers,
Has anyone done any of the courses offered by Lycoming at Penn College?
Is/are the course(s) useful?
other comments?
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: rear seat rudder pedals |
I disagree about the aileron trim. I have electric and use it on every
flight.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N188rv(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: rear seat rudder pedals
--> RV8-List message posted by: N188rv(at)aol.com
I would keep the pedals and not install aileron trim. I have rear pedals
and
aileron trim (manual).
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
My RV4 needs a canopy cover. What types are
available? Pro/cons? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Prop considerations |
Hi guys,
I have pretty much made up my mind to buy a metal sensenich, and still
probably will...but. Some little bird has been nagging at me to look at
either a 2 or 3 bladed wood or composite "catto, prince, warnke, etc.." type
prop.
Can anyone who has used any of the above or both send me some comments
either way???
I have a 180 h.p. IO-360, so please only those with a similar engine
respond.
Thanks in advance,
Stein Bruch
RV6, MSP
Almost finished :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
When you have about a 5/8" Hole it is for 1/2" pipe as the pipe is sized by
the ID not the OD.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
Dear Parker:
To my knowledge there is no 5/8 NPT thread. Pipes are called out by nominal
ID.
Nominal ID - OD
1/16 - 0.3125
1/8 - 0.405
1/4 - 0.540
3/8 - 0.675
1/2 - 0.84
and on up
Maybe you have 3/8 pipe.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
Parker;
There is no such thing as a 5/8" pipe thread. If it physically measures approximately
5/8" OD then
it is a 3/8" pipe thread and the fitting you require should be readily available
from all the usual
sources such as Aircraft Spruce or whomever you personally favour. You probably
threw them with the
5/8" pipe size. Pipe threads are measured by "nominal pipe size" a figure which
bears no physical
relationship to any actual dimension on the pipe. It is an approximation of the
inside diameter. (It
was the actual inside diameter years ago when the system was invented and pipe
was made out of iron.
Modern materials being stronger has allowed the manufacturers to make the ID larger
but they had to
retain the original OD and thread to remain compatible with older existing systems.)(
Hope this is
slightly clearer than mud)
Good Luck
Bob McC
"F. Parker Thomas" wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread on one
> end and an 8D AN nipple on the other? My engine came plumbed a little
> differently so I'm going to use a different port for the oil cooler return.
> ACS had no idea.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Parker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Gary,
Wrinkle paint is available in spray cans at auto supply stores. It has to be
applied very heavy and allowed to air dry. If there are any light spots,
those spots will not wrinkle. Consider that if you use this, you will not be
able to use the transparent labels such as Casio or Brother to identify
switches, etc.
Bill RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>
> Hi fellow RVer's,
> I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
> panel was black and looked like it had some
> sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
> type of paint and how it is applied?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
I'm not a IA or A&P, nor did I spend last night at Holiday Inn (or
whatever) BUT did spend 20+ years as plumbing and A/C contractor. The key
words in sizing pipe are Pipe & Tube. Back in the old days pipe was threaded
and made of thick walled materials, some one came up with the idea of a
"standard". The inside diameter (ID) was stated in (nominal) inches and
varied with the thickness of the material used. BUT the OD was the same size
so a single set of pipe dies could be used to cut "standard" threads.
Copper "pipe" comes in various wall thickness M, L,K and hardness. The
fittings for copper are type "L" BUT fit all three because the OD is the
same. Copper "Tube" size is OD and used mainly in Air Conditioning, brake
lines, medical piping etc.
Bottom line: 1/2" NPT "pipe" is closer to 7/8" OD (before the tapered
threads) BUT is called 1/2". You will run into the same type of problem when
you try converting from pipe threads to plastic/aluminum/copper tube ("Tube"
size). Your 5/8" OD threads are 3/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread). Do Not
Acrhive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
>
> When you have about a 5/8" Hole it is for 1/2" pipe as the pipe is sized
by
> the ID not the OD.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
>
>
> Dear Parker:
>
> To my knowledge there is no 5/8 NPT thread. Pipes are called out by
nominal
> ID.
>
> Nominal ID - OD
> 1/16 - 0.3125
> 1/8 - 0.405
> 1/4 - 0.540
> 3/8 - 0.675
> 1/2 - 0.84
> and on up
>
> Maybe you have 3/8 pipe.
>
> John Bright
> RV6A pre-punched, wings
> Newport News, VA
> john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
> 757-886-1161
>
> > Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools for sale |
Hey, they're here! looks nice, I'll try them out tomorrow. I'm gonna'
hafta' build another plane now. thanks, Kevin
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
How long does that take to remove?
Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
removing it?
Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this but
don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later. Thanks,
Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Seattle area builders,
I will be at Boeing the week of the 11th and was wondering if there is any
local -8 builders in the later stages of construction that would like visit
from someone at a similar state. We can trade this is what I was thinking
stories!! I will be bored in a hotel Monday through Thurs. night.
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Help with Van's horizontal air induction system |
This question is for those using Van's horizontal air induction system
that takes engine air from in front of the #2 cylinder. Van's says it's
okay to take engine air and oil cooling air both from the left side of
the engine. Are any of you doing that and is there no significant
difference in cooling from the left vs the right cylinders?
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 Wings
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
Sorry, I misspoke, looking at my manual it is NOT 1/2 pipe but 3/8" pipe.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
When you have about a 5/8" Hole it is for 1/2" pipe as the pipe is sized by
the ID not the OD.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
Dear Parker:
To my knowledge there is no 5/8 NPT thread. Pipes are called out by nominal
ID.
Nominal ID - OD
1/16 - 0.3125
1/8 - 0.405
1/4 - 0.540
3/8 - 0.675
1/2 - 0.84
and on up
Maybe you have 3/8 pipe.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: pipe thread adapter |
Sorry, I misspoke, looking at my manual it is NOT 1/2 pipe but 3/8" pipe.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
When you have about a 5/8" Hole it is for 1/2" pipe as the pipe is sized by
the ID not the OD.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bright" <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread adapter
Dear Parker:
To my knowledge there is no 5/8 NPT thread. Pipes are called out by nominal
ID.
Nominal ID - OD
1/16 - 0.3125
1/8 - 0.405
1/4 - 0.540
3/8 - 0.675
1/2 - 0.84
and on up
Maybe you have 3/8 pipe.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> Does anyone know where I could find a fitting with a 5/8 pipe thread...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
I got mine from Becki Orndorff. works very nice. Carroll Bird RV-4, 200 Hrs
Emmanuelle Richard wrote:
>
> My RV4 needs a canopy cover. What types are
> available? Pro/cons? Thanks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Super Sound Proofing Request |
Hello,
I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet
aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and
would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it.
Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it
really worked!
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
RV-8 SB Canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | RV Finder (web tool) |
Ok, it was only a matter of time before I broke down and built this:
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp
Enter your zip code, select a radius, and you can find all the registered
RVs of various types that are located nearby.
Enjoy!
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: coupling Garmin handheld to a Garmin panel mount |
Although I don't have a 300XL IFR, I do have two Garmin 195 GPSs that I link together
on a regular basis. I have one panel mounted and one on a clip on mount
that I use to do my flight planning and then upload the flight plan to my panel
mounted GPS for my flight. I have been using this for the past few months
and I love it. As cheep as used 195s are getting it's really nice to have access
to both a moving map and a big HSI at the same time.
If my memory serves me right, I used the universal data cable with the Garmin 195
connector on one end and just loose wires on the other end. I hooked up power
and ground and swapped the data transmit and receive so the units could talk
to each other.
The software end is even easier. Just put one unit in the slave mode and use
the other units software menu to send or receive data from the slave. It's easy
and at 9600 baud it works pretty fast.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( Flying and loving it )
--
On Sun, 27 Jan 2002 10:17:43
Robin Wessel wrote:
>
>Listers-
>
>Reading the manual for my Garmin 300XL IFR gps I noticed that it supports
>the slaving of a Garmin aviation handheld. Apparently entering a route and
>goto command only has to be entered from the panel mount. I am considering
>buying a 195 or a Pilot III to add some additional situational awareness as
>well as have an excuse to buy another toy.
>
>Does anyone have any experience as to how well this works?
>
>thanks,
>
>robin wessel
>RV-6A Tigard, OR- 85 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
I've posted on this subject before. As one of those with a fiberglass
(actually carbon fiber) plenum, I would not do it again. I would make a
plenum, but I would make it out of aluminum rather than glass. Too much of
a hassle.
Jim
Tampa.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard D.
Fogerson
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle?
I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
How long does that take to remove?
Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
removing it?
Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this but
don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later. Thanks,
Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
> I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
> engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
> interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
> something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
> cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
>
> How long does that take to remove?
Mine takes about 90 seconds. It is attached at the front with 4 screws and
attached at the back and two sides with hinges. I take out four screws,
pull
four pieces of hinge pin and its off. Mine is aluminum not fiberglass.
> Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
No.
> Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
> removing it?
No.
> Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
Yes. For the same reason I did it in the first place. Efficiency and
reduction of pressure inside the top cowl. And as someone pointed out, it
is a great place to put my wiring supplies as I wade through miles of white
spaghetti.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Finder (web tool) |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Totally Awesome. Works great. Looks good.
Thanks.
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
Richard D. Fogerson wrote:
>
> I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
> engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
> interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
> something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
> cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
>
> How long does that take to remove?
Depends on the method of attaching it
>
>
> Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
YES
>
>
> Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
> removing it?
No, not much to see.
>
>
> Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
No. I can see no gain in the installation I currently have (metal).
>
>
> I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this but
> don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later. Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I see from the current RVator that the new RV-8 empennage kits are "as
prepunched as the RV-7 and RV-9" kits. That's nice for the empennage
builder, but what about the wings and fuselage? Has anyone received a recent
RV-8 wing or fuselage kit? I understood that the wing and fuselage skins
were pre-punched, but are the wing ribs and fuselage bulkheads/firewall also
computer-matched and pre-punched?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
> My RV4 needs a canopy cover. What types are
> available? Pro/cons? Thanks.
Got mine from DJ Lauretson at Cleveland Tools. It works well, fits well and
protects the canopy. I am not familiar with the others enough to make a
comparison, however, but DJ does nice work on everything, including
interiors.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Finder (web tool) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
This is awesome!
What database are you pulling off of? I ask because several local
registered RV's that I know of don't show up.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> Ok, it was only a matter of time before I broke down and built this:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp
>
> Enter your zip code, select a radius, and you can find all the
> registered RVs of various types that are located nearby.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> )_( Dan
> dan(at)rvproject.com
> http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au |
SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | RV Finder (web tool) |
Hi Dan,
So when's the international version coming out? Ya never know some of you yanks
might want to come done and visit some of us Aussies on day!!
Looks cool!
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
rv7-list(at)matronics.com; SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: RV Finder (web tool)
Ok, it was only a matter of time before I broke down and built this:
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp
Enter your zip code, select a radius, and you can find all the registered
RVs of various types that are located nearby.
Enjoy!
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Geeez Steve... The next thing you'll want is for all the parts to actually
FIT...
anonymous (and envious) RV-4 manufacturer
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV-8 kits
>
> I see from the current RVator that the new RV-8 empennage kits are "as
> prepunched as the RV-7 and RV-9" kits. That's nice for the empennage
> builder, but what about the wings and fuselage? Has anyone received a
recent
> RV-8 wing or fuselage kit? I understood that the wing and fuselage skins
> were pre-punched, but are the wing ribs and fuselage bulkheads/firewall
also
> computer-matched and pre-punched?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
Rick,
I built mine out of Van's stock baffle kit, one sheet of #40 aluminum for the cap,
and some stiffners for the attachment points. Screws all the way around for
a nice tight fit. Takes about 5 minutes to remove with an electric screw driver.
Not a big deal since the top of my cowl takes that long to remove. During
preflight I can see a lot of the number 1 and 2 cylinders through the air
inlets so if I'm throwing oil or some obvious problem, I will catch it. I also
painted it inside and out with high temperature white paint to help show off
any problems in a hurry.
I have found that oil temps are rock solid 180 to 185. By having all that air
contained instead of blowing against the top of your cowl, you are relieving a
ton of stress on all the attach points of your cowl and oil filler door. There
are none of the blow by issues to deal with that you normally have with conventional
baffle seal.
Did it take longer? Yes. About twice as long.
Was it worth it? Would I do it again? Definitely!
It's a better design, there's no question about that. I'm sure if folks could
order one right out of Van's catalog, it would be a big seller.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( see my pics at rv8a(at)tripod.com )
--
On Mon, 4 Feb 2002 21:43:04
Richard D. Fogerson wrote:
>
>I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
>engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
>interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
>something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
>cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
>
>How long does that take to remove?
>
>Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
>
>Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
>removing it?
>
>Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
>
>I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this but
>don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later. Thanks,
>Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
The -7 and -8 wings are identical and are both match drilled now...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of C. Rabaut
Subject: Fw: RV-List: New RV-8 kits
Geeez Steve... The next thing you'll want is for all the parts to
actually FIT...
anonymous (and envious) RV-4 manufacturer
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV-8 kits
>
> I see from the current RVator that the new RV-8 empennage kits are "as
> prepunched as the RV-7 and RV-9" kits. That's nice for the empennage
> builder, but what about the wings and fuselage? Has anyone received a
recent
> RV-8 wing or fuselage kit? I understood that the wing and fuselage
> skins were pre-punched, but are the wing ribs and fuselage
> bulkheads/firewall
also
> computer-matched and pre-punched?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Finder (web tool) |
I just implemented a fix...it used to only recognize models that had dashes,
like "RV-6". Now it'll recognize those registered without the dash as well,
like "RV6".
Should be good to go now.
At some point I'll also add a mode where you can opt to wait MUCH LONGER and
get results from all states, not just the same one as the location you
enter. That way, if you live close to a state border you're not hosed.
Unfortunately, it cranks the query time way up...to about 4-5 minutes.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Finder (web tool)
>
> This is awesome!
>
> What database are you pulling off of? I ask because several local
> registered RV's that I know of don't show up.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> >
> > Ok, it was only a matter of time before I broke down and built this:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp
> >
> > Enter your zip code, select a radius, and you can find all the
> > registered RVs of various types that are located nearby.
> >
> > Enjoy!
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > dan(at)rvproject.com
> > http://www.rvproject.com:8000
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seattle Visit |
In a message dated 2/5/2002 7:44:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com writes:
<< Seattle area builders,
I will be at Boeing the week of the 11th and was wondering if there is any
local -8 builders in the later stages of construction that would like visit
from someone at a similar state. >>
I live in Kent (south of the Boeing Field) and finishing the fuse on an RV9A.
I realize that it is NOT an RV8, but I think you will see my RV9 and wish
you had one too! I would be happy to have you visit to swap construction
lies and make airplane noises if an RV8 offer does not come along.
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | More cowl camlock questions |
Fellow Listers:
I am in the process of installing my new S glass cowling for my -4 (this is
the second time around having trashed the old polyester cowl).
I have decided to use Camlocks on the top cowl to firewall and at the
longitudinal cowling split line) but I have not purchased them yet. For
those that have done this, what camlock series did you use (the Skybolt kit
is rather pricey at $300)? The choices are the 2700 series or the 4002
series. Can the 2700 series be used on the relatively thin S glass cowl
(the S glass is .040 thick). Or must you use the 4002 series which require
a grommet. Can the S glass be countersunk successfully for either
installation (since it is thinner than the poly) or did you have to resort
to the "plus flush" type of grommet for the 4002 series.
Hope all this makes sense.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | Re: RV Finder (web tool) |
> what about those of us who registered our planes with a space in between
the
> V and the number... like "RV 6". Will you recognize those as well as the
> ones registered with no space or a dash?
A lot of people have been asking about different patterns of model numbers.
If there are any uber-geeks out there (I'm not pointing fingers) who might
want to help enhance this tools ability to recognize RV model number
patterns, here's the regular expression I'm using:
.*RV[-[:space:]]?[[:digit:]]+(A)?.*
It now supports missing dashes, using a space instead of a dash, etc. If
anybody has suggestions on how to improve that, just let me know.
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Finder (web tool) |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Sure enough, I looked up the "missing" RV's and they did not have
the "normal" model number. One was RV6-A instead of RV-6A, etc.
>
> I just implemented a fix...it used to only recognize models that had
> dashes, like "RV-6". Now it'll recognize those registered without the
> dash as well, like "RV6".
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
Doug,
There is a page on my web site that lists part numbers and all...
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm
Go to the "Cowl fasteners" section on that page. The Skybolt version of the
4002 series Camlocks is the only way to go.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 143.5 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I am in the process of installing my new S glass cowling for my -4 (this
is
> the second time around having trashed the old polyester cowl).
>
> I have decided to use Camlocks on the top cowl to firewall and at the
> longitudinal cowling split line) but I have not purchased them yet. For
> those that have done this, what camlock series did you use (the Skybolt
kit
> is rather pricey at $300)? The choices are the 2700 series or the 4002
> series. Can the 2700 series be used on the relatively thin S glass cowl
> (the S glass is .040 thick). Or must you use the 4002 series which
require
> a grommet. Can the S glass be countersunk successfully for either
> installation (since it is thinner than the poly) or did you have to resort
> to the "plus flush" type of grommet for the 4002 series.
>
> Hope all this makes sense.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
> I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass plenums for
> engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This looks
> interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
> something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
> cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
>
> How long does that take to remove?
>
> Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
>
> Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine without
> removing it?
>
> Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
>
> I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this but
> don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later. Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
Rick,
I did a fiberglass plenum on my RV-8. The plenum, in combiination with my
cowl, was a lot of extra work. If I had it to do over again I not do it this
way. I would still do the plenum, because I think the benefits are worth it,
but with the standard cowl inlets. You can see my installation at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm
BTW, the slickest plenum I've seen as used with a standard cowl is Gary
Zilik's installation on his RV-6.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/index.html
Look on the Firewall forward page.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 143.5 hrs
Home Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
98% or more completed from quick build...painted....extra canopy...rear
rudder peds...VFR day....0320..SMOH...160hp....new C/S prop...NO PIX,
sorry....new upholstry...vettermann
exhaust...Com11B....transpond......rocket gear fairings...$65,000
jollyd(at)ipns.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
Thanks Bill,
That seems like a great simple solution to prevent canopy leakage.
I'm glad I asked.
I did get previous feed back from a request about the use of internal
com antennas and got a very strong negative response about garbled
transmissions using internal antennas. What has been your experience
and did you do something to prevent this. Low drag and elimination of
icing problems does seem like a very good idea if I can make it work
reliably.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
--- Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> How do I get to the pics through the email address?
That was Jim's mistake, Larry. You can get to his site through Van's
links, or straight to it from here:
http://rv8a.tripod.com/engine.html
Jim is a local builder (now flyer) and his work is just great!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)iinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
I would endorse the negative responses to the Tape type antenna on the
canopy. A friend was using one from Van's in a tip up canopy 6 and it was
hopeless. Very short range in most directions (like 500 yards in some, air
to air) also difficult to copy him at times. Replaced with bottom mounted
and all OK now. Some antennas come with a graph showing drag at various
speeds. It is obviously supplied for very high speed aircraft as the drag at
our speeds is very small. FWIW Regards, Brian
>
> I did get previous feed back from a request about the use of internal
> com antennas and got a very strong negative response about garbled
> transmissions using internal antennas. What has been your experience
> and did you do something to prevent this. Low drag and elimination of
> icing problems does seem like a very good idea if I can make it work
> reliably.
>
> George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
A textured powder coat will give you this effect.
Rick Jory (RV8A)
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: panel panel
>
> Hi fellow RVer's,
> I was looking the panel in a Pitt's over the weekend. The color of the
> panel was black and looked like it had some
> sort of non-skid material applied to it. Does anybody know about this
> type of paint and how it is applied?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Gunn,RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Super Sound Proofing Request |
Check out Soundsuckers .com for sound proofing foams and pads, Talk to
Gretchen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Super Sound Proofing Request
>
> Hello,
>
> I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet
> aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and
> would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it.
> Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it
> really worked!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV-8 SB Canoe
> Moscow, ID USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Mag compass in panel? |
I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
rendition of my proposed layout at:
<http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Joy Mosley, Mosley Living Trust, NABA, Inc." <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Antenna placement, flip up canopy water seal |
George,
I simply installed the antenna according to the instructions. Van says to
install the $7 foil antenna on the windscreen soldered to a bulkhead fitting
just above the glare shield. The foil runs vertically up the Plexiglas and
wraps around the top side. I tried to attach the foil inside the nose wheel
fairing with no success. Van says they receive and transmit clear signals up
to 100 miles, that's my experience also. What more can you ask. Refer to the
antenna article in the October '93 RV ATOR. My GPS antenna is mounted on the
glare shield and works just fine, I don't use a VOR, if I did I would run
the foil (or a 1/2 by 22" piece of aluminum) horizontally on the bottom of
the Cowl. If I were doing it again, I would even try mounting the
transponder antenna inside of the cowl.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? |
Mine is mounted in the upper right part of the panel and has almost no
deviation.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
In a message dated 2/5/02 10:04:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
<< I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass. >>
My Compass is in the panel adjacent to my electric turn coordinator. I was
able to successfully swing the compass in the N/S axis, but I'm not
particularly happy with the results on the E/W axis - I've probably got a 20
degree inaccuracy. I don't find this to be a big problem, and my only other
nav devices are eyeballs, a map, and a handheld GPS I use infrequently.
If you look in the archives, you'll see some advise on how to manage
electronic interference. I think Electric Bob (Bob Nuckolls w/ the
Aeroelectric Connection) has posted on this several times.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
Doug;
I followed Randy's lead and installed Skybolt camlocks on the firewall end
only. You can't install them on the split lines (at least on the 8) because
the new cowls are so stiff. Only countersinking required is on the .062
aluminum. I like the fasteners, but Skybolt has some problems with their
kit, namely they don't come with any instructions and some of the supplied
templates are useless. They have instructions on their website, but they
are incorrect for their new fasterners. Their sales director had no idea
they were shipping kits without instructions, so I don't think they have any
internal communications.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ engine baffles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
> I have decided to use Camlocks on the top cowl to firewall and at the
> longitudinal cowling split line) but I have not purchased them yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Mag compass in panel?
>
> I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
> panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
> the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
> on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
> right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
> Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
> rendition of my proposed layout at:
> <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
> I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
> whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
> OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
> - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
> What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
> Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
> I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
> still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
Kevin,
I don't know what type engine instruments you may be planning to use.
However, their are apparently air core and iron core types. The iron core
types have strong permanent magnets in them (they are also cheaper in cost).
I liked the instruments and installed them which ruled out placing the
Whiskey compass any where near them. In fact its over on the right side of
my RV-6 panel. I now have one of the new $50 electronic (interference
compensating) compasses which is stuck to my windscreen.
The point being if you are considering putting your compass in your panel
make certain your engine instruments are not "iron" core but the "air" core
type. FWIW
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | More speed, more features |
Unfortunately I'm not talking about an RV...
But I am talking about the RV finder web tool. I made some major speed
enhancements and it now supports "over the border" queries. Basically
you're no longer tied to just the state you entered. It'll pull in RVs from
any state, sorted by distance.
So, for example, if you do a query for "Reno, NV", you get lots of nearby
California RVs as well.
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp
Still not international, but one thing at a time.
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYWILLCUTTS(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
Have recently completed and 8 with camlock everywhere no problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Tubes |
I would like to have some feed back re: Warren's pitot tubes-primarly from
those of you that are flying with such. I am interested in the accuracy
of... Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
Hi Kevin:
Tried panel mounting in my RV6 and had to move it onto the glare shield,
heading changed every time you turned something else on. Just today ordered
another pedestal mounted for the 6A as I believe it is a mandatory item.
The sad side it is sort of a useless item, even in the best of conditions
only gives a rough idea of which way one is pointed. In the arctic was
totally unreliable. I have used the DG for directional reference most of my
life. Set it to the runway heading prior to take-off and know its rate of
precession, then in combination with the ADF would fly a accurate heading.
Don't recall looking at a compass in the past 40 years.
All this changed with the advent of GPS, all I am putting in the 6A is the
Garmin combination comm gps a transponder and a comm 2.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing wiring 6A
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Mag compass in panel?
>
> I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
> panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
> the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
> on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
> right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
> Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
> rendition of my proposed layout at:
> <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
> I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
> whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
> OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
> - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
> What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
> Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
> I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
> still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
Vans sells two styles of canopy cover -- regular, and light-weight.
I got the light-weight one and to be honest, I don't know what advantage
there is to the heavier type. Mine keeps the rain off, has a nice thin liner
that doesn't scratch the canopy, folds up to a very compact size, and cost a
whole lot less. Since 99% of us keep our planes hangared and likely mainly
use the canopy cover when traveling, the lighter weight alone seems like a
pretty important factor (is to me anyhow). In fact the heaver covers'
thicker liners look to me like they could be prone to trap small pieces of
grit.
I'm not writing this to badmouth the heavier covers, just relating my
experience/thoughts. I am wondering if I'm missing something since a lot of
people seem to be buying the other kind. The only advantage that I can see
is that heavier/thicker ones might last longer. Perhaps someone with the
other type can give an opposing view? :-}
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
> The compass will be one hole down and
> right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
> Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor.
[snip]
> I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
> whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
Kevin,
I think if you put it there, it has a good chance of being a "placeholder"
to satisfy the FAA (or Transport Canada in your case).
I too tried to put it in my panel and found that most of the electronic
instruments I have would throw off the compass. The only way I could
eliminate significant interference was to move some instruments around AND
put the compass on the top of the glareshield. The fuel gauge (Westach)
would throw it off, as did the Matronics Fuel Scan. The radios weren't so
bad. Don't remember about the TC. But the only way to be sure is get the
different instruments (preferably powered up) and hold the compass next to
them in various orientations.
If I were VFR only I'd have put it wherever was most convenient, but my bird
is IFR and I really wanted the compass to mean something, so I rearranged my
panel to minimize interference.
Another option is one of those newfangled electronic compasses. I think
there's a boat unit that has a very light remote sensing unit (Bob Haan has
one in his panel). Or maybe one of those cool CoPilot LCD display ones could
work. I'm from the old school but I wouldn't hesitate to replace the old
whiskey compass with a better electronic version especially if it ran off
A/C power and had a battery back-up. Still waiting for someone to come out
with a version that has remote sensing, an LCD display, pseudo-analog
"vertical card" format, and 2 1/4" round form factor.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net> |
| Subject: | Gear box F802A&B |
A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
technical insecurities.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Mag compass in panel? |
Learn to love your wet compass, treat it with respect and care for it just
might save your life some day. Like it saved mine, that night many years
ago, during a snow storm, when I had to shoot a needle/ball/airspeed ILS
approach down to 200 and 1/2 into Denver Stapleton after losing all my gyros
in a C-310Q.
I just love that mag compass....
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eustace Bowhay
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag compass in panel?
Hi Kevin:
Tried panel mounting in my RV6 and had to move it onto the glare shield,
heading changed every time you turned something else on. Just today ordered
another pedestal mounted for the 6A as I believe it is a mandatory item.
The sad side it is sort of a useless item, even in the best of conditions
only gives a rough idea of which way one is pointed. In the arctic was
totally unreliable. I have used the DG for directional reference most of my
life. Set it to the runway heading prior to take-off and know its rate of
precession, then in combination with the ADF would fly a accurate heading.
Don't recall looking at a compass in the past 40 years.
All this changed with the advent of GPS, all I am putting in the 6A is the
Garmin combination comm gps a transponder and a comm 2.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing wiring 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
> I'm not writing this to badmouth the heavier covers, just relating my
> experience/thoughts. I am wondering if I'm missing something since a lot
of
> people seem to be buying the other kind. The only advantage that I can see
> is that heavier/thicker ones might last longer. Perhaps someone with the
> other type can give an opposing view? :-}
>
Randall is correct on this. If you want a cover just to keep the dust off
the canopy while it's parked in your hangar, or you need one for those trips
where you'll be tied down overnight, the light weight version is the way to
go. I bought the heavy weight cover from GBI, who could very well be making
the ones for Van's, and have been very pleased with it. Granted, it is
heavier; but, I don't have a hangar and park mine on the ramp. Longevity
was an issue for me. Mine has lasted for over two years of day to day
weather of all types. I expect it will last at least another year. If so,
it's been well worth the price I paid.
As for the comment about grit under the cover, I think one can get that
under any cover. One just has to be careful to wash the cover from time to
time to prevent as much damage as possible. So far, mine has been fine,
even in dusty conditions.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
Mike,
It's certainly true that Skybolt has some internal communications issues
regarding the inclusion of relevant instructions with their camloc kits. That
said, it's not too hard to figure out how to install the puppies by
extrapolating from the RV-4 instructions on their website. The one gotcha I
experienced was pulling all the little black pins from my adjustable receptacles
before installing them, instead of waiting until all the depth adjustments had
been made. I lost about an hour getting those pins back in...
I had no trouble installing the camlocs along my cowling's split lines.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
Ashland, MA
final, final, final details before going to the airport later this month
"Michael J. Robbins" wrote:
> I followed Randy's lead and installed Skybolt camlocks on the firewall end
> only. You can't install them on the split lines (at least on the 8) because
> the new cowls are so stiff. Only countersinking required is on the .062
> aluminum. I like the fasteners, but Skybolt has some problems with their
> kit, namely they don't come with any instructions and some of the supplied
> templates are useless. They have instructions on their website, but they
> are incorrect for their new fasterners. Their sales director had no idea
> they were shipping kits without instructions, so I don't think they have any
> internal communications.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ engine baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting oil pressure sensor, Thoughts |
> Question;
> Have any of you folks actually seen a engine mounted sending unit broken
off
> by vibration, or do any of you know of anyone that has witnessed such an
> circumstance?
The hangar next to mine still houses remnants of a what had been a brand new
Questair on which this happened. The pilot, who spent a cold night in a high
mountain meadow, bruised and battered and wrapped in pieces of aluminum from
the rolled-up ball that had been the plane, was able to walk out the next
day. He regailed our RV group with the story some time back at a meeting. He
expressed frustration that the manufacturer (of either the sensor, the
engine or the kit -- I don't remember which) had told him it was okay to
hang the sensor off of there. I do recall that it was one of the heavier
sensor types, but I can't say for sure that it wasn't on any kind of
extension. Regardless, it was enough to convince me to mount mine remotely
(even though the C-182 I occasionally fly has had an factory installed, FAA
sanctioned engine-mounted sensor since its manufacture in 1957!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
I mounted Van's compass in the panel of my 6A. In the hangar as I was
installing more stuff I was pointed south and the compass was correct to
within 3 degrees. I kept installing more stuff. One day a friend who was
monitoring my (slow) progress came over and said " Hey, your compass is
off!"
Sure enough, it wasoff about 15 degrees pointing south. I swung it crudely
in the hangar, but it was not quite where I wanted it.
I have since swung it multiple times and still get errors of 10 degrees on
E/W. I can't seem to tweak out the error.
Somewhere along the timeline of installing stuff I introduced a magnitized
component within a foot or so of the compass, probably a screw -- instrument
mounting screws are all brass of course. Ticks me off!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 113 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
Colin:
The "template" for drilling F802 A & B at the bottom are the holes you
drilled in the F-802G & H floor angles. See drawing 24, secion D-D (lower
left hand corner of the sheet).
George
N888GK
Flying
>From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
>Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 23:45:23 -0800
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "colin jordan"
>
>A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
>on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
>At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
>go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
>correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
>technical insecurities.
>Colin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
I just had my PA28R180 anualed. The mechanic found a small piece of magnet
taped to the bottom of the compass which was mounted on top of the panel.
He removed it and said he could not put it back and pass the inspection.
After
that I could not swing the compass. The compass was factory mounted and I
suspect when the previous owner replaced the radios the magnet was added
to make the compass track properly. Anyway I had to mount the compass
on the center post of the windscreen several inches above the previous
position to make it work. So I would be careful to make sure the compass is
away from electronics that might produce a magnetic field affecting the
compass
and also any steel or iron objects that might retain magnetisim.
Earl RV4
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
> panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
> the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
> on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
> right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
> Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
> rendition of my proposed layout at:
> <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
> I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
> whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
> OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
> - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
> What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
> Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
> I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
> still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
If you plan to install a used Hartzell C/S prop like Van's sells, make sure
to have it overhauled before you fit your spinner and cowling. The prop
shop sets the internal high pitch stop ( some call it course pitch)
specifically for the model aircraft, such as RV-6. This stop will affect
the fit of your spinner which could then affect the space between the
spinner and cowl.
My prop came off of a Mooney M20C and has the same model designation as the
prop sold by Van's. I fitted my spinner and cowl last spring and had the
prop overhauled last fall. When doing the final assembly last week, the
prop blade would contact the rear bulkhead at max high pitch. I shimmed the
bulkhead with washers to get the required clearance and, then, the cowl
would not go on. The prop shop said that the max high pitch for a Mooney
M20C is 28 degrees and that it is 37.5 for an RV-6.
It appears that I have the following options:
1. Grind off the rear edge of the spinner/bulkhead and hope to get
enough clearance.
2. Reinforce the inside of the cowl at the front and grind off the cowl
aft of the spinner, including my beautiful new paint. Then refinish and
repaint the cowl.
3. Put washers between the engine and the engine mount, moving the
engine and prop forward. Will probably require adjustment to the air scoop
and baffling.
4. Give up, sell the project, and buy some golf clubs and a bottle of
Jack Daniels.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
Are most folks using Vans "rivet" static port or one of the nicer looking
after market ports. Do both work equally well?
Rich Crosley
RV-8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot systems |
Rich,
We used Cleveland Tools' - The were easy to install and paint - looks and
works well.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: pitot systems
>Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:52:06 -0800
>
>
>
>Are most folks using Vans "rivet" static port or one of the nicer looking
>after market ports. Do both work equally well?
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 fuselage
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Engine Cooling |
I would say to get the correct ratio, close down the inlet first, most RVs I
know of fly too cold, not too hot. Fly it, and if you have cooling
problems, then engineer a fix. Fix the problem, not the solution.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Engine Cooling
>
> Hi,
> I have a question regarding the air inlet/outlet area
> ratio on an RV-6. Here is the configuration:
>
> RV-6
> O-360-A1A
> 3 Blade Wood Prop w/harmonic dampener
> Old style polyester resin cowling.
> inlet area = 42 square inches
> outlet area = 41.5 square inches
>
> The test pilot that might test fly my plane here in the
> next couple of weeks insists that I need more outlet
> area for proper cooling. He says the proper ratio
> should be 1:1.5 - 1:2. Does it seem reasonable to start
> enlarge the outlet area prior to the first flight per
> his recommendation? He says that all the RV's he has
> test flown have needed this modification.
>
> Thank you,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
I hope I am not violating Matronics policy with the following.
I received a private response to my question about antenna location,
that is full of useful knowledge to all. I am therefore sending it to
entire list. I have also included my private response in the belief
that it also might include a little useful knowledge.
George (private, not on RV-list),
I had a knee jerk reaction when I saw "elimination of icing problems" in
relation to external antennae. I'm all for looking at things from all
angles and considering, in advance, various problems and "what if's". I'm
age 61 and have 5000 hrs in fighters, some time in light airplanes; I'm
responding with only the best wishes for you. So,.....
The very fact that you would consider getting the antenna "indoors" out of
the ice makes me wonder what else you think about ice. I personally won't
fly into icing conditions or snow. I have, once, picked up a light bit of
rime ice climbing up thru a thin layer of non-precipitating stratus cloud.
If that is all you are thinking of encountering, then I can relax about your
view that it would be nice not to stress the antenna with that bit of extra
wt for a few moments until it sublimates off.
But if you think that ice on an antenna is a significant matter, then I
wonder how you come to that frame of mind. In my frame of reference, ice on
an antenna would be a micro-problem compared to the deadly and potentially
unrecoverable effects of ice on the airfoils and parts of the fuselage.
Unless you are flying a twin or bigger with pneumatic boots on leadings
edges - or hot air from jet engine compressor bleed system into the leading
edges - and have deicing fluid to squirt onto your prop, you simply must
avoid icing - thus antenna icing becomes a non-issue.
If I am going to fly above the freezing level and have reason to believe
that I may encounter clouds enroute, then I will only fly if the freezing
level is at least 2000 feet AGL, so that if I accumulate ice, I can descend
and melt it off before disaster occurs. I have intentionally flight planned
to go south of a front - south of a direct route home - so that the surface
was above freezing. I wound up landing short of home and staying overnight
until the forecast and actuality of freezing precip moved off east, at which
time I flew on home in VMC, behind the goo.
David Carter
Thanks David,
I too am scared of ice. I was only thinking of the possible use of
heat to delay ice forming on an antenna while getting out of an
unpredicted icing situation as quickly as possible, without losing
communication capability. Sorry I conveyed the opposite attitude.
I once had an encounter in unpredicted ice where a request for an
immediate change of altitude was met by the usual "stand by one". A
lot other aircraft were making the same request and I stood by a lot
longer than one while nervously watching ice accumulate.
The best advice I have gotten related to this is from my
nephew-in-law, a Marine F-4 pilot. He had left the Corp. and was
flying OV-10s in the reserve. He said their policy was to tell ATC
they were leaving the altitude and would take any heading. This may
be common knowledge but it was the first time I heard it. It seems a
quick way to get out of a bad situation and simplify sorting of
aircraft by ATC.
Thanks again for your very informative response and interest in pilot safety.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
Check the archives, then decide. There has been a lot of discussion in the
past. One school claims the pop rivets actually work better ostensibly
because they protrude thru the boundary layer. The machined ones sure look
nice, are easier to attach the tubing and work well on jets. I never saw
clear winner in the arguments - seems to be a personal preference thing. I
used the pops.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
>
> Are most folks using Vans "rivet" static port or one of the
> nicer looking
> after market ports. Do both work equally well?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
There's also options 5 and 6...
5. Carefully and symmetrically relieve the backplate where the blades touch.
6. Leave it alone and let the backplate flex. You will seldom hit the high
pitch stops. Seems I remember someone asked Van's and this was their
recommendation. It's probably in the archives.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> If you plan to install a used Hartzell C/S prop like Van's
> sells, make sure
> to have it overhauled before you fit your spinner and
> cowling. The prop
> shop sets the internal high pitch stop ( some call it course pitch)
> specifically for the model aircraft, such as RV-6. This stop
> will affect
> the fit of your spinner which could then affect the space between the
> spinner and cowl.
>
> My prop came off of a Mooney M20C and has the same model
> designation as the
> prop sold by Van's. I fitted my spinner and cowl last spring
> and had the
> prop overhauled last fall. When doing the final assembly
> last week, the
> prop blade would contact the rear bulkhead at max high pitch.
> I shimmed the
> bulkhead with washers to get the required clearance and,
> then, the cowl
> would not go on. The prop shop said that the max high pitch
> for a Mooney
> M20C is 28 degrees and that it is 37.5 for an RV-6.
>
> It appears that I have the following options:
>
> 1. Grind off the rear edge of the spinner/bulkhead and
> hope to get
> enough clearance.
> 2. Reinforce the inside of the cowl at the front and
> grind off the cowl
> aft of the spinner, including my beautiful new paint. Then
> refinish and
> repaint the cowl.
> 3. Put washers between the engine and the engine
> mount, moving the
> engine and prop forward. Will probably require adjustment to
> the air scoop
> and baffling.
> 4. Give up, sell the project, and buy some golf clubs
> and a bottle of
> Jack Daniels.
>
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6
> Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
I think your mechanic was wrong to remove.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag compass in panel?
I just had my PA28R180 anualed. The mechanic found a small piece of magnet
taped to the bottom of the compass which was mounted on top of the panel.
He removed it and said he could not put it back and pass the inspection.
After
that I could not swing the compass. The compass was factory mounted and I
suspect when the previous owner replaced the radios the magnet was added
to make the compass track properly. Anyway I had to mount the compass
on the center post of the windscreen several inches above the previous
position to make it work. So I would be careful to make sure the compass is
away from electronics that might produce a magnetic field affecting the
compass
and also any steel or iron objects that might retain magnetisim.
Earl RV4
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
> panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
> the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
> on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
> right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
> Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
> rendition of my proposed layout at:
> <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
> I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
> whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
> OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
> - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
> What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
> Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
> I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
> still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot systems |
Rich:
I used Van's pop rivet. Works fine.
George
N888GK
flying
--- "Crosley, Rich"
wrote:
>
>
> Are most folks using Vans "rivet" static port or one
> of the nicer looking
> after market ports. Do both work equally well?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 fuselage
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Transponder install question |
Guys,
I have the most basic Garmin 320a transponder and have recently wired it all
up. This was my first attempt at installing with the little d-sub pin
connectors. I bought the good crimper from B& C and think I did all things
correctly.
My situation is this....when I hook up the witing harness plug to the unit I
am not getting the power to stay on. I have checked all the connections for
continuity and I'm good there.
Question: For those who are knowledgable in the d-sub pin
connectors....when installed into the wire connection plug, the little pins
have a little play once they are snapped in. I can move the littel pin in
and out about 1/16 inch...maybe less. Is this normal. Maybe I will need to
rewire the plug if it is not?
Thanks,
Doug Bell, Jr.
8qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison TBI and Matronics Fuelscan |
Guys,
My brother stopped into the hanger this weekend and took some good pics of
our installation of the Ellison Throttle body on our O 360 A4M with the
throttle and mixture cables clearly visible. I have some good pics of the
install of the transducers ( Flow and Pressure ) for our Fuelscan unit as
well.
The files are big, and I still am not sure how to post these things
anywhere.
If these can be helpful to anyone, I will gladly send them to you.
Doug Bell
8qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: icing/antennas |
>--> RV6-List message posted by: George Frost
>
>The best advice I have gotten related to this is from my
>nephew-in-law, a Marine F-4 pilot. He had left the Corp. and was
>flying OV-10s in the reserve. He said their policy was to tell ATC
>they were leaving the altitude and would take any heading. This may
>be common knowledge but it was the first time I heard it. It seems a
>quick way to get out of a bad situation and simplify sorting of
>aircraft by ATC.
The relevant portions of the FARs are part 91.123, and 91.3. The first
says, basically that you must comply with ATC clearances and instructions
unless deviation is necessary to handle an emergency, the second says that
the Pilot In Command, alone, is ultimately responsible for the safe
operation of his aircraft.
As a pilot, and long-time controller, I can tell you that there are many
situations that would preclude you getting an immediate altitude change or
revised clearance just because you encountered some ice. The controller
has no equivalent to far 91.123, that is, the controller does NOT have
emergency authority to deviate from his first priority duty which is to
separate aircraft and issue safety alerts.
If you require my assistance in my sector I WILL do everything I legally
can, consistent with my duty priorities and orders, to help you.
Philosophically, however, I will not be very sympathetic. To be blunt, if
you are operating at or near the freezing level, in cloud or visible
moisture, whether or not an airmet or pireps of icing exist, you are
screwing up.
If you don't want to pick up ice, and you shouldn't want to, don't fly in
icing conditions. You don't have to be there, the OAT indicator is there
for a reason, forcasts, airmets, and briefings aren't just to fill a
square, and ice is ALWAYS avoidable. If that means you don't get to fly
today, then I guess it means you don't get to fly today.
The time to ask for a different altitude or route is not after you start
picking up ice, but rather, before you get into conditions were ice is likely.
Flying into icing conditons rates a close second to "inadvertant" VFR
flight into instrument conditions on my list of stupid pilot tricks. Just
don't.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
I replied, check the archives. Sorry you didn't get my message. Don't
worry, if you say something others don't like you'll hear about it.
Welcome to the wild west of the internet!
Vince Himsl
RV8 SB Fuselage Canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Transponder install question |
I have this same transponder. Yes, they can have a little play. Not 1/16"
but a little. I would check the screw that mounts it to the tray. You can
adjust it to pull the unit in tighter into the rack.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Transponder install question
>
> Guys,
> I have the most basic Garmin 320a transponder and have recently wired it
all
> up. This was my first attempt at installing with the little d-sub pin
> connectors. I bought the good crimper from B& C and think I did all
things
> correctly.
>
> My situation is this....when I hook up the witing harness plug to the unit
I
> am not getting the power to stay on. I have checked all the connections
for
> continuity and I'm good there.
>
> Question: For those who are knowledgable in the d-sub pin
> connectors....when installed into the wire connection plug, the little
pins
> have a little play once they are snapped in. I can move the littel pin in
> and out about 1/16 inch...maybe less. Is this normal. Maybe I will need
to
> rewire the plug if it is not?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Bell, Jr.
> 8qb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a lot
of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be
descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the
part numbers but dearly remember the problem.
Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel:
cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the
forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a
cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
about behind the panel.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan
Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
--> RV8-List message posted by: "colin jordan"
A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
technical insecurities.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fit - clearance for paint |
> How much gap are you leaving between the upper and lower cowl halves and
> beteeen the cowl and fuselage to allow for paint?
You will know after you start flying why this post made me laugh out loud. I
remember a builder of a -6 some time ago laying down STRANDS of fiberglass
to get the space between his cowling halves JUST right. Then he started
flying. The gaps get pretty big, with all the movement of the various parts.
Just cut the thing and don't worry about a few pecometers of paint. You will
not get it that close, and if you do, it won't stay that close.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Super Sound Proofing Request |
Vince,
I went through the decision process on that too, but was told it doesn't do
much good. Now that I'm flying behind a fixed Sensenich, I understand. After
the first flight I had to buy a noise canceling headset. The noise is *very*
intense, but it's in the low frequencies, where sound pads don't do much to
attenuate it, but the headset works great.
You might think it will at least provide thermal insulation, but again it
turned out for me that plugging all the drafts is about impossible. So a
barrier to conductive heat transfer doesn't help much when the problem is
convective transfer, ah..wind chill!
I put two heaters in mine too, one on each exhaust pipe. Warm from the waist
down this time of year.
Greg Miller
Idaho Falls, ID
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince
Subject: RV8-List: Super Sound Proofing Request
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vince"
Hello,
I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet
aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and
would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it.
Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it
really worked!
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
RV-8 SB Canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? |
Ah, nice panel design! but where's the car stereo/CD player? Looks like it
would fit under your audio panel--they are a bit wider than a plane radio.
That is the location I put mine, and it's perfect. My left hand is either on
the throttle, and/or just above it on the flap switch (where your left most
breaker is) or adjusting the stereo volume.
When you put the stereo in make sure you put one of those radio shack power
conditioners on it, or the CD spindle motor A/C power noise will leak into
you intercom and ruin Led Zeppelin. Part number 270-030, about 5$ and very
worth it.
I put my compass where your G meter is and have not had to recalibrate it.
Greg
N89GM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel?
--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
rendition of my proposed layout at:
<http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for
RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that
seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo,
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many
messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there
seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List.
Kevin Horton
>
>Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a lot
>of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be
>descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the
>part numbers but dearly remember the problem.
>
>Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel:
>cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the
>forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a
>cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
>about behind the panel.
>
>Greg Miller
>RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "colin jordan"
>
>A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
>on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
>At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
>go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
>correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
>technical insecurities.
>Colin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? |
I'm figuring by the time I get this thing flying I'll be able to buy
a $20 iPod that'll hold every song every written :). Seriously, I've
got a portable CD player now that I might use, but I'm hoping the
iPod prices will come down a bit by then.
Take care,
Kevin
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "G. Miller"
>
>Ah, nice panel design! but where's the car stereo/CD player? Looks like it
>would fit under your audio panel--they are a bit wider than a plane radio.
>That is the location I put mine, and it's perfect. My left hand is either on
>the throttle, and/or just above it on the flap switch (where your left most
>breaker is) or adjusting the stereo volume.
>
>When you put the stereo in make sure you put one of those radio shack power
>conditioners on it, or the CD spindle motor A/C power noise will leak into
>you intercom and ruin Led Zeppelin. Part number 270-030, about 5$ and very
>worth it.
>
>I put my compass where your G meter is and have not had to recalibrate it.
>
>Greg
>N89GM
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel?
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
>panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
>the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
>on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
>right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
>Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
>rendition of my proposed layout at:
><http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
>I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
>whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
>OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
>- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
>What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
>Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
>I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
>still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
I just tried that site. First I saw an obstrusive colorful blinking
advetisement. End of site.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for
RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that
seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo,
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many
messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there
seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List.
Kevin Horton
>
>Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a
lot
>of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be
>descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the
>part numbers but dearly remember the problem.
>
>Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel:
>cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the
>forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a
>cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
>about behind the panel.
>
>Greg Miller
>RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "colin jordan"
>
>A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
>on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
>At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
>go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
>correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
>technical insecurities.
>Colin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag compass in panel? |
My compass is in the panel. It is as accurate as any one I have seen
in a "Spam Can". There is NO electrical wiring near it. Also no steel
other than the rollover windshield bow. (Stainless steel does not
count.) Have only made one small adjustment. There is some error but
it is very small. Did not check the error when I was north of the
Arctic Circle this summer.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Do it. It can save you some potential hassle down the road. I don't
think it is much more work over the on/off/on/off sequences you go
through matching the baffles to the cowl.
I also suggest an oil cooler door so you can adjust oil temperature.
Another one of my do-overs, and if I had the time I'd retrofit that to
my airplane.
On my F1 I am definitely going to make an aluminum plenum that is
removable, along with some removable covers to permit getting to the top
plugs without taking the entire plenum off. The cowl hinges take a
beating, cowl rivets start showing, paint cracks, etc. In another year
or two I will have to redo my cowl (its the old crap polyester cowl.)
You'd be surprised how much the cowl blows up in flight and the
subsequent stress that is put on the piano hinges, esp. if you're doing
rolls or any high-g stuff. With the plenum you won't have the stresses
on the cowl and attach hardware that you have with the baffles in
contact with the top cowl except around the inlets. After prolonged
periods of not keeping the airplane clean I'll have very light streaks
of black dust coming from the cowl hinges, and they show signs of wear
after 270 hours. I'd really hate to have to replace the hinges on the
firewall side and ruin the paint. So in that respect alone I'm doing it
differently on the new airplane. I don't think maintenance will be much
of an issue. Once you have the bugs worked out of your airplane
hopefully taking the cowling off between oil changes will be a rare
event anyway.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 270 hours
F1 QB under const.
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle?
I have seen some people installing aluminum and fiberglass
plenums for
engine cooling rather than the standard baffle system. This
looks
interesting to me from an esthetic and efficiency standpoint but
something bothers me about it. You must remove it in addition to the
cowl to see or get to the top of the engine.
How long does that take to remove?
Do you consider that to be a big hassle?
Does it concern you about not being able to see the engine
without
removing it?
Lastly, would you do it if you had it to do over again and why?
I would appreciate your responses as I am considering doing this
but
don't want to invest the time if I'm going to reqret it later.
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
That in itself is worth a donation to Matt......
THANKS MATT for no advertisements!
Laird
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Feb 6, 2002 7:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
I just tried that site. First I saw an obstrusive colorful blinking
advetisement. End of site.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for
RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that
seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo,
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many
messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there
seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List.
Kevin Horton
>
>Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a
lot
>of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be
>descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the
>part numbers but dearly remember the problem.
>
>Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel:
>cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the
>forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a
>cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
>about behind the panel.
>
>Greg Miller
>RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "colin jordan"
>
>A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes
>on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead .
>At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first
>go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it
>correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my
>technical insecurities.
>Colin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re: RV-List, Propeller bolts |
Does anyone know of a good source for AN77 prop bolts? I don't know the
dash number but it measures 8 3/8" from the bottom of the head to the
end of the bolt. The diameter is 7/16". The thread length is
approximately 1 3/16". I only need one for replacement. Any help will
be appreciated.
Leon York, RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I've all but decided not to do as you suggest...because I figure I can
unscrew the center section of the panel and gain access. What's wrong
with this plan?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fwd baggage door
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller
>
> Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the
> instr panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting
> the instrument bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted
> nut plates around the perimeter then cut a cover for it. In
> maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
> about behind the panel.
>
> Greg Miller
> RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Panel access |
I designed my panel to come out the way you suggest, so I can take it home
to work on it. I have many times now. But before it comes out, I use the
access panel to disconnect many items, following is my panel removal
checklist:
Center Panel Removal Procedure
1. From cockpit, under rear of stereo, remove vacuum filter hoses (2),
unscrew vacuum filter (platenut), and set aside.
2. Open forward baggage door, and rear instrument panel access door.
3. Disconnect Horizon gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify label, and cover
openings with tape.
4. Disconnect Direction gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify label, and
cover openings with tape.
5. Disconnect 24-pin (carefully!) Molex connector.
6. Disconnect fuel pump switch 2-pin Molex connector.
7. Disconnect six-pin connector from pigtail in 14, above KMA-24/KX-155
8. Disconnect EGT 2-pin Molex connector.
9. Disconnect CHT 2-pin Molex connector.
10. Disconnect single (in 3-pin) Molex connector: radio master power.
11. Unscrew turn coordinator plug from T/C
12. Disconnect wire harness from EPM
13. Disconnect manifold pressure tube from EPM
14. Disconnect comm. antenna BNC, under access port opening, coax #H
15. Disconnect MB antenna BNC, behind KX-155, coax #70
16. Disconnect G/S antenna BNC from triplexer, bottom inboard, behind KX-155
17. Disconnect VOR antenna BNC from triplexer, top inboard, behind KX-155
18. Disconnect FM antenna from triplexer, top outboard, behind KX-155
19. Disconnect pitot tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and cover opening
with tape.
20. Disconnect static tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and cover opening
with tape.
21. Disconnect encoder static tube at VSI, verify label, and cover opening
with tape.
22. Disconnect large serial port type connector from intercom, above
KMA-24/KX-155. Inboard screw needs to be loosened first. Upon install
tighten inboard screw!
23. Vans CHT: detach thermocouple cable from top two terminals. Yellow to
+
(inboard), red to (outboard). Unscrew from panel first and lower for
access.
24. Remove GPS mount
25. Cockpit, remove center panel screws.
26. Carefully work panel straight back.
27. End
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV8-List: Panel access
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
I've all but decided not to do as you suggest...because I figure I can
unscrew the center section of the panel and gain access. What's wrong
with this plan?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fwd baggage door
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller
>
> Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the
> instr panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting
> the instrument bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted
> nut plates around the perimeter then cut a cover for it. In
> maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking
> about behind the panel.
>
> Greg Miller
> RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
In a message dated 2/6/2002 4:52:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
> The one gotcha I
> experienced was pulling all the little black pins from my adjustable
> receptacles
> before installing them, instead of waiting until all the depth adjustments
> had
> been made. I lost about an hour getting those pins back in...
I tossed the pins and just pulled a double loop of safety wire thru mine
(from the inside like a cotter pin) and bent the tails around the underside
lip. Much easier to adjust later.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Mitch Faatz |
In a message dated 2/5/2002 8:58:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickf(at)velocitus.net writes:
> I am interested in an aluminum plenum with round inlets for my RV3 and I
> understand that Mitch Faatz has experience with that configuration. I've
> tried mfaatz(at)avidyne.com but it does not work. Is Mitch on the list
> and/or does anyone have a current email address for him.
Mitch left Avidyne and is back in Silicon Valley where he belongs. The
latest address I have for him is
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum - Great Idea or Big Hassle? |
Hi All,
I built the baffling on my RV-3 with a Lycoming O-290 to match the existing
cowl. It was easier to make and install than "standard" baffling, sealed to
the engine and cowl air inlets and included access to R&R the top plugs
without removing the baffling.
I am building an improved set of baffling for my RV-4 with an IO-540. :-)
I expect it to be close to a bolt on installation, even though I'll need to
provide access for the occasional injector maintenance.
It works. It is very efficient. It can be very easy.
BTW, the air leakage around "standard" baffling keeps the cowl cool around
the exhaust pipes. A sealed baffling allows the exhaust pipes to blister the
paint unless the inside of the cowl is protected.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50 LOM M332 engine (sealed duct baffling comes installed by the
factory on the engine) :-)
RV-3 sn 306 Lyc. O-290 engine (sealed duct baffling)
RV-4 / HR2 Lyc. IO-540 engine (sealed duct baffling)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | re: RV-List, Propeller bolts |
Leon,
We have a 7/16 bolt which measures 8.469 from under the head and has 1.156
threads. We sell singles or kits of 6 bolts and 6 washers. I'll warn you now
though that this bolt is not cheap. Give a call if you are interested.
717-569-0435
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:05:55 AM
Amazon has the PC versions with 20 gig for $75.00 reconditioned. They'll be
$199 by the end of the year. The days are numbered on the old CD format.
Eric
Kevin Horton (at)matronics.com on 02/06/2002 09:21:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel?
I'm figuring by the time I get this thing flying I'll be able to buy
a $20 iPod that'll hold every song every written :). Seriously, I've
got a portable CD player now that I might use, but I'm hoping the
iPod prices will come down a bit by then.
Take care,
Kevin
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "G. Miller"
>
>Ah, nice panel design! but where's the car stereo/CD player? Looks like it
>would fit under your audio panel--they are a bit wider than a plane radio.
>That is the location I put mine, and it's perfect. My left hand is either
on
>the throttle, and/or just above it on the flap switch (where your left
most
>breaker is) or adjusting the stereo volume.
>
>When you put the stereo in make sure you put one of those radio shack
power
>conditioners on it, or the CD spindle motor A/C power noise will leak into
>you intercom and ruin Led Zeppelin. Part number 270-030, about 5$ and very
>worth it.
>
>I put my compass where your G meter is and have not had to recalibrate it.
>
>Greg
>N89GM
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel?
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument
>panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in
>the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
>on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and
>right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the
>Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality
>rendition of my proposed layout at:
><http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>.
>
>I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or
>whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung
>OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel
>- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have?
>What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass.
>
>Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given
>I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I
>still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close.
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Panel access |
I put an access panel in the bulkhead, but I also made my panel tip down
and out very easily without adding ANY weight...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/wire4.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Panel access
I designed my panel to come out the way you suggest, so I can take it
home to work on it. I have many times now. But before it comes out, I
use the access panel to disconnect many items, following is my panel
removal
checklist:
Center Panel Removal Procedure
1. From cockpit, under rear of stereo, remove vacuum filter hoses
(2),
unscrew vacuum filter (platenut), and set aside.
2. Open forward baggage door, and rear instrument panel access
door.
3. Disconnect Horizon gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify label,
and cover
openings with tape.
4. Disconnect Direction gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify
label, and
cover openings with tape.
5. Disconnect 24-pin (carefully!) Molex connector.
6. Disconnect fuel pump switch 2-pin Molex connector.
7. Disconnect six-pin connector from pigtail in 14, above
KMA-24/KX-155
8. Disconnect EGT 2-pin Molex connector.
9. Disconnect CHT 2-pin Molex connector.
10. Disconnect single (in 3-pin) Molex connector: radio master
power.
11. Unscrew turn coordinator plug from T/C
12. Disconnect wire harness from EPM
13. Disconnect manifold pressure tube from EPM
14. Disconnect comm. antenna BNC, under access port opening, coax
#H
15. Disconnect MB antenna BNC, behind KX-155, coax #70
16. Disconnect G/S antenna BNC from triplexer, bottom inboard,
behind KX-155
17. Disconnect VOR antenna BNC from triplexer, top inboard,
behind KX-155
18. Disconnect FM antenna from triplexer, top outboard, behind
KX-155
19. Disconnect pitot tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and
cover opening
with tape.
20. Disconnect static tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and
cover opening
with tape.
21. Disconnect encoder static tube at VSI, verify label, and
cover opening
with tape.
22. Disconnect large serial port type connector from intercom,
above
KMA-24/KX-155. Inboard screw needs to be loosened first. Upon install
tighten inboard screw!
23. Vans CHT: detach thermocouple cable from top two terminals.
Yellow to +
(inboard), red to (outboard). Unscrew from panel first and lower for
access.
24. Remove GPS mount
25. Cockpit, remove center panel screws.
26. Carefully work panel straight back.
27. End
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV8-List: Panel access
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
I've all but decided not to do as you suggest...because I figure I can
unscrew the center section of the panel and gain access. What's wrong
with this plan?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fwd baggage door
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller
>
> Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr
> panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument
> bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the
> perimeter then cut a cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no
> end of grief when mucking about behind the panel.
>
> Greg Miller
> RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | ATC initial contact protocal |
Recently, someone was asking about the proper phraseology for initial
and subsequent call ups to ATC when flying our RV's. Here is an excerpt
I just found directly out of the AIM:
2. Breezy Six One Three Romeo Experimental (omit "Experimental" after
initial contact).
So in my case, I'll be calling in as "RV 57 Mike Echo Experimental" on
the initial contact and then simply "57 Mike Echo" thereafter.
Question for those ATC types out there - Should I say "RV 57 ME
experimental" or should it be Romeo Victor 57 Mike Echo experimental"?
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ATC initial contact protocal |
--- Eric Newton wrote:
>
> Recently, someone was asking about the proper phraseology for initial
> and subsequent call ups to ATC when flying our RV's. Here is an
> excerpt
> I just found directly out of the AIM:
>
> 2. Breezy Six One Three Romeo Experimental (omit "Experimental" after
> initial contact).
>
> So in my case, I'll be calling in as "RV 57 Mike Echo Experimental"
> on
> the initial contact and then simply "57 Mike Echo" thereafter.
>
> Question for those ATC types out there - Should I say "RV 57 ME
> experimental" or should it be Romeo Victor 57 Mike Echo
> experimental"?
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
Eric:
I use RV 157 Golf Sierra Experimental in the US and RV November 157
Golf Sierra Experimental in Canada. Hope that the ATC types pipe up if
there is something wrong with this.
When asked type of aircraft in the US, I replay Romeo Victor Six slash
Golf. Golf is for approach certified GPS and not the VFR variety. The
type changes in Canada and I must look up what follows the slash.
Hotel Xray Bravo is the international type followed by the slash and
international equipment.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | IO360-B1(a-f or so) |
I am looking for one. The one I purchased from Wentworth Aircraft did
not work out and is on its way back. Does anybody have a lead on one?
I have cash in hand.
Anybody out there purchased an XP motor yet? I am also considering the
kit. Please reply off list to keep spam down.
Thanks,
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Fuse(N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg
Home: (425)290-7526
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7 |
I'm in the process of straigtening the fuselage bulkheads. F-707, 705, 706
etc (I think. Don't have the plans at work right now). They need A LOT of
fluting since they are very distorted. Did others experience this as well?
They are not critically bent, but they sure look warped and flimsy. Thankx
Back to work,
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
Finishing Wings (looking ahead)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Super Sound Proofing Request |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Greg,
Am I hearing I should leave my RV-6 firewall bare (...I've already hinted
that I want a noise cancelling headset for my b-day )?
General consensus seems to lean towards some type of pad aids both noise
and heat coming into the cockpit (good in summer, bad in winter). However
I'd love to leave it off for build time/weight savings if it doesn't do
much good.
Others' experiences?
Rob Acker (another ID RV )
>
> Vince,
>
> I went through the decision process on that too, but was told it
> doesn't do much good. Now that I'm flying behind a fixed Sensenich, I
> understand. After the first flight I had to buy a noise canceling
> headset. The noise is *very* intense, but it's in the low frequencies,
> where sound pads don't do much to attenuate it, but the headset works
> great.
>
> You might think it will at least provide thermal insulation, but again
> it turned out for me that plugging all the drafts is about impossible.
> So a barrier to conductive heat transfer doesn't help much when the
> problem is convective transfer, ah..wind chill!
>
> I put two heaters in mine too, one on each exhaust pipe. Warm from the
> waist down this time of year.
>
> Greg Miller
> Idaho Falls, ID
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Super Sound Proofing Request
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Vince"
>
> Hello,
>
> I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet
> aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and
> would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it.
> Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it
> really worked!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV-8 SB Canoe
> Moscow, ID USA
February 01, 2002 - February 07, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mh