RV-Archive.digest.vol-mi
February 07, 2002 - February 15, 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley RV Fly-in 2002 |
The Langley Aero Club and Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing are holding a
fly-in for RVs on Saturday, June 8, 2002 at Langley airport (CYNJ), in British
Columbia, just across the border from Blaine, WA. This is shaping up to be a
really good event, with some fantastic features already planned, and probably
more to come. Keep an eye on the Fly-in web page for details,
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ
Perhaps you're already the proud owner of a flying RV. Lucky you! Then you'll
best RV, and to show off your beautiful airplane. There will be plenty of
space on the field for parking. It's an easy day trip for anyone in
Washington, or even Oregon. Or, you can camp on the field, or stay in one of
the hotels near the airport. For U.S. visitors, border-crossing procedures for
homebuilts are easier than ever, and we're working on having customs available
on the field. Keep an eye on the web page (above) for more information.
Currently building an RV? Then you're probably thinking a lot about those first
flights. We're going to have Mike Seager, Van's authorized RV transition
training instructor, available for transition instruction in his RV-6. For
more information, or to schedule instruction, contact Mike Seager between
7:00am and 9:00am Pacific Time at (503) 429-5103. Mike can also be reached via
e-mail at rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com. You'll also enjoy the seminar on engines, by
Bart Lalonde of Aero Sport Power, and RV safety, by Eustace Bowhay. We are
very fortunate to have these highly respected aviation professionals come to
our fly in.
Are you an RV wannabe? Seriously thinking about building one, but unsure about
what's involved, the cost, the time commitment? Worried that you don't have the
skills? Then you'll be interested in talking to the representative from Van's
Aircraft who will be there, and attending the seminar I'll be giving,
"Introduction to RV Building." The seminar will cover those basic questions,
and others, and will be a place where you can ask whatever's on your mind about
the building process, and maybe even try a little practise riveting.
If you just like to look at RVs, this is probably going to be the best chance
for Canadians to see RVs inside Canada this year. There are 38 RVs registered
in B.C., and we hope to have a sizeable proportion of them at Langley. We've
been contacted by groups as far away as Saskatchewan and southern California
who've expressed an interest in flying in with their RVs. So we expect a great
turn out, and some really interesting RVs to look at.
Naturally, we're encouraging anyone who wants to fly in, regardless of what
type of airplane they have. If you plan to attend, and especially if you plan
to fly in, please take the time to write me at tedd(at)vansairforce.org or, if you
prefer, sign the Guest Book on the Fly-in web page.
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/guestbook/lac_sign.html
That will help us plan facilities such as food, washrooms, and customs for U.S.
visitors.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm trying to get ahold of Mike Seager.
I have an email addres but no response.
Anybody have a phone number or other email address.
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Data Plate Question |
To those who have gone before, what is required in the "Manufacture Date"
section of the data plate? Must it be "month, day, year"? Or "month,
year"? Or just "year"?
If it is "month, day, year", I assume it is the date of the airworthiness
certificate.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net> |
Thanks to all ,
Your replies were most helpful in jogging the memories at Vans ( they
are sending me the template) and giving me a few good tips,again thank
you to all who took the time to reply.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Steve,
These numbers are what I have on file
503-429-5103 w
503-429-1562 h
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Hurlbut [SMTP:hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 8:33 AM
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Mike Seager?
>
>
> I'm trying to get ahold of Mike Seager.
> I have an email addres but no response.
> Anybody have a phone number or other email address.
>
> Thankx
> Steve
> RV-7A
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: C/S Prop Tip |
> 5. Carefully and symmetrically relieve the backplate where the
> blades touch.
I ended up doing that due to not shimming enough when I fit the thing. Have
an approx. 3/4" x 1/2" oval hole at the flange bend in the backplate
adjacent to each blade. So far its holding up well.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fit - clearance for paint |
I'd say 1/16" is about right before paint; after paint that will still leave
you a little gap (a good thing.)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More cowl camlock questions |
In a message dated 2/5/2002 2:01:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I am in the process of installing my new S glass cowling for my -4 (this is
> the second time around having trashed the old polyester cowl).
>
> I have decided to use Camlocks on the top cowl to firewall and at the
> longitudinal cowling split line) but I have not purchased them yet. For
> those that have done this, what camlock series did you use (the Skybolt kit
> is rather pricey at $300)? The choices are the 2700 series or the 4002
> series. Can the 2700 series be used on the relatively thin S glass cowl
> (the S glass is .040 thick). Or must you use the 4002 series which
> require
> a grommet. Can the S glass be countersunk successfully for either
> installation (since it is thinner than the poly) or did you have to resort
> to the "plus flush" type of grommet for the 4002 series.
>
> Hope all this makes sense.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
>
The 2700 series works fine with the plain 2700 Receptacle Part # 212-12N. You
will have to determine the length of the camloc but you will most likely end
up with a -4 . One more thing use the slotted type because the Phillips strip
out way to easy.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data Plate Question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>To those who have gone before, what is required in the "Manufacture Date"
>section of the data plate? Must it be "month, day, year"? Or "month,
>year"? Or just "year"?
>
>If it is "month, day, year", I assume it is the date of the airworthiness
>certificate.
>
There is no date required. If you choose to put one, you choose the format and
what it refers to.
"45.13 Identification data.
(a) The identification required by 45.11 (a) and (b) shall include the following
information:
(1) Builder's name.
(2) Model designation.
(3) Builder's serial number. "
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Data Plate Question |
Ken,
Straight out of FAR 45.13: identification required
1. Builder's name.
2. Model designation.
3. Builder's serial number.
That's it, anything else is superfluous. I made mine as unobtrusive as possible,
just took a piece of stainless sheet about 3/4" X 2" and had it
engraved, then polished it up.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Firewall Forward
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Harrill
Subject: RV-List: Data Plate Question
To those who have gone before, what is required in the "Manufacture Date"
section of the data plate? Must it be "month, day, year"? Or "month,
year"? Or just "year"?
If it is "month, day, year", I assume it is the date of the airworthiness
certificate.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Regrestry - Question |
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/rvfinder.jsp Site is a hoot. This guy is
a real programmer. Give it a try.I ran this program and entered my
zipcode where I live in southern NJ, the list returned many, many
"addresses" of RV-3/3a/4/4a/6/6a/7/7a/8/8a/9/9a aircraft.....all with
the SAME address in Delaware. All of these regrestrations also have
company names and aren't people or builders. This seems borderline
illegal to have a company name as the builder,unless its a second or
subsequent owner/regrestry.... but what do I know. The address is 3511
Silverside RD., STE 105, Wilmington,DE. The Zip I used to search with
was 08088. Could this be that famous Delaware Regrestry Company that is
advertised ?? WHat are the benefits of doing this ? I'm thinking
legal/liability/tax advoidance issues... any other pro's or cons of this
"regrestry process" ?? BTW there is no such thing as a RV-4A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | tail spring modification ? |
Greetings all,
Hopefully, there are some machine shop types out there who might have an
answer to my question. I have an RV-3B project that came with the standard
tailwheel and spring, but I plan to have a full swivel tailwheel. I ordered
a full swivel tailwheel and spring from Van's, knowing that it would be too
big in diameter to fit the tailwheel receptacle bracket that's already
mounted in the plane.
My plan (ignorance may be bliss) was to just have a machine shop put the new
spring in a lathe, and turn it down to 3/4" diameter to match the old
spring. Now that I have the new part in hand, I'm starting to wonder if this
will be as easy as I thought. It just dawned on me that there was probably
some sort of heat treatment done to the new spring after it was originally
shaped. Would that make it impossible to have someone turn it down on a
lathe now? Would they have to remove the heat treatment somehow, and then
re-treat it after the machining? If I go to a machine shop, will they
expect me to know what kind of heat treatment was done, or will they be able
to measure it themselves?
Thanks for the info.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 94 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: The Triennial Aircraft Registration form |
was mailed
and has not been returned by the Post
The Triennial Aircraft Registration form was mailed and has not been
returned by the Post
Office.....
The FAA sent me a form and the form stated that if nothing changed on
the regrestration form, don't mail it in.Latter, when I looked at the
FAA records, I see the above entry in the new "status" columb.....Anyone
else run into this bureaucratic issue???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7 |
Steve, I experienced the same thing when building my bulkheads! Especially the
706 (606 in my case) was really flimsy, warped and hard to deal with. I remember
thinking "I can't believe Van would send a piece of crap like this and call
it a bulkhead"! Just keep forging ahead, you'll be surprised how it stiffens
up and takes shape after the skin and back wall of the baggage compartment are
installed.
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7
>
I'm in the process of straigtening the fuselage bulkheads. F-707, 705, 706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Wood Prop Torque |
Don,
I'm no longer with Sensenich Wood Props but I know they recommend checking
the bolt torque the way you described every 50 hours or during a seasonal
change.
You can read more about this on their web site at:
http://www.sensenichprop.com/sen_html/wsb.html
I hope that helps you.
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> 2. if you calculate the upwards pressure the normal design places on the
> cowl, it makes sense why lower cowl bottom hinges get broken.
Did you do this calculation, including the aerodynamic forces acting on the
outside of the upper cowl? What was the result?
Seems to me the pressure contained in the upper cowl needs only overcome the
resistance offered by the cooling fins on the jugs, which would eyeball to
about "a little bit of nothing." It would take a large flow across this
minimal resistance to create much pressure (E=I/R). The lower cowl has its
own internal pressure, as the cooling air all tries to exit the lower scoop,
and this pressure would counteract at least some of the up-load on those
lower cowl hinges. Just wondering how real this concern really is. That
said, I too have replaced broken hinge on my 6A cowl, after only 100 hrs or
so.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
insured or did you need time in type?
Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail spring modification ? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>My plan (ignorance may be bliss) was to just have a machine shop put the new
>spring in a lathe, and turn it down to 3/4" diameter to match the old
>spring. Now that I have the new part in hand, I'm starting to wonder if this
>will be as easy as I thought.
I was caught in the changeover to the full swivel tailwheel on my 6. I
had the old style spring and the new tailwheel. I had a neighbor turn it
down (as per the Van's instructions) and there was no particular problem.
The lathe owner did ask "is this thing heat treated?" when he saw how it
was reacting.
By the way, the instructions said to make an angled transition area.
Don't just leave a right angle transition.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Accuracy |
> Could anyone having recent actual experience with electronic compasses
> such as one of the Ritchie units or even the $60 Airguide (J.C.Whitney,
> et.al.) please comment on accuracy of these, particularly turning
Mark,
I have been flying with one of the Ritchie units in my RV-6 for about two
years and I am very happy with it. It is accurate and steady on every
heading (even in turbulence) when the airplane is straight and level .
However, the compass acts like a "whiskey" compass in turns and under
acceleration/decelaration. It definitely is not a substitute for a DG.
Bob Hall
RV-6 N976RH
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hesketh" <don(at)dhesketh.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV6A to RV6 conversion |
I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to take
trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
Don Hesketh.
Tamworth England
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
Hi Don,
I'm told it has been done.
If you describe in some detail the current build status of the kit you
haveon hand I'm sure you will get good answers to your question. The more
detailed info in the better the answers will be. The same description
supplied to Vans will give you the information you seek and the exact
current cost of doing what you want using new parts. You might get lucky and
find some one who has gone the opposite way and they might have some good
pieces to supply.
Best of luck to you.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hesketh" <don(at)dhesketh.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A to RV6 conversion
>
> I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to take
> trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
>
> Don Hesketh.
> Tamworth England
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Halkett <brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8a |
Hey Frank,
Long time no see...I'm using Skywalk as a broker and
my insurance is through AIG. I've never had a problem
with them. Never had a claim though! They will
probably require some time with a cfi or you could get
some time in a similar type (any rv). They made me
get 5hrs with an instructor when I bought my rv4.
I'll tell you what. My hours will be flown off soon.
Give me a call and we get you some time in my 8 during
March. If you are not used to the nose wheel on those
things get some time in a 6A or a grumman.
brian
Cameron Park, CA
(530) 672-1249
--- lorin l frank wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
>
>
> Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for
> our RV8a. What
> insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign
> off enough to get
> insured or did you need time in type?
>
> Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
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> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Chapman" <chapmanp(at)us.ibm.com> |
02/07/2002 05:58:19 PM
Lycoming 0-235-C1 for sale. Half life, great condition, cleaned and ready
for installation$4K
Can be inspected in CT 203 662 9768.Phil
chapmanp(at)us.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mac flap indicator |
Dear Listers,
i have my mac trim system all wired up and it works !!! :-) when i hooked up
all the indicators the elevator and aileron trim works fine, but the flap
sensor to the indicator isn't working. just the 2 bottom bars are lite, and
no matter what i do with the flaps they just stay lite. i've verified my
connections, anybody familiar with this setup?
scott
tampa
inpection set for March 14, whoo hooo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Lorin,
We had a checkout with Mike Seger - Highly Recommended.
Our insurance was thru Scott at SkySmith - AIG - Also highly recommended.
Mike's check out was good enough.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - Niantic, CT
>From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8a
>Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 11:42:51 -0800
>
>
>Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
>insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
>insured or did you need time in type?
>
>Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac flap indicator |
You have one wire for each light position if I remember correctly. then you
have a power and ground. Not all the wires are too be used, though. I
think there are extra wires in the whole mix. I would use some jumpers and
mix and match until you get it right.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mac flap indicator
>
> Dear Listers,
> i have my mac trim system all wired up and it works !!! :-) when i hooked
up
> all the indicators the elevator and aileron trim works fine, but the flap
> sensor to the indicator isn't working. just the 2 bottom bars are lite,
and
> no matter what i do with the flaps they just stay lite. i've verified my
> connections, anybody familiar with this setup?
> scott
> tampa
> inpection set for March 14, whoo hooo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Regrestry - Question |
philip condon wrote:
>
snip
... any other pro's or cons of this
> "regrestry process" ?? BTW there is no such thing as a RV-4A
>
wanna bet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
It takes more than that, actually. The tail is modified to support the
weight on the tail. You would have to take the back bulkheads out and add
the supports. Also, your fuselage will have holes where the gear legs come
through. I'm not completely sure about the engine mount holes, either. I
know the mount is different, and may have different mounting points on the
firewall. It would be a heck of a job, that's for sure, but it is possible.
I know they did it at Van's a while back, so you might pick their brain.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hesketh" <don(at)dhesketh.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A to RV6 conversion
>
> I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to take
> trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
>
> Don Hesketh.
> Tamworth England
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Call John Helms at Nationair. The Vanguard program is by far the best bang
for the buck out there. His info is on Van's page.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8a
>
> Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
> insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
> insured or did you need time in type?
>
> Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G-meter in panel |
>My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in the panel, rather than on
top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
on top of the glareshield)...........
Not sure why you would want your G-meter on top of the glaresheild. What
with all that room in the panel, why stick an instrument up there in the
way. If you want it up there so you can monitor what you are doing during
aerobatics, I don't think you would be looking at it while you are doing a
maneuver. You are looking out there when doing aerobatics. By the time it
shows you are doing something with too many Gs, it's too late to do much
about it. If you blow a maneuver (don't ask me what I did this morning
trying to improve my rolls) you will know it at the time and then you can
look at the G-meter when you're done to see how badly you screwed up.
Instruments on the glareshield, other than the compass, look like they were
an afterthought. I don't even like to see the compass up there, sticking up.
Especially in an airplane like the RVs as your face is pretty close to
things. Something to consider when stopping a little too fast in a place you
didn't plan on.
Keep it in the panel. Mine is, up in the top row, right, where it is no
problem finding it at any time. The compass is far right panel, by the way,
and is pretty accurate there. When I look at it.
JUST my opinion. You are going to be looking at that panel a long time and
you want everything where you want it. Just something else to think
about........
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
............Hard left aileron coming over to 180 now a little forward stick
a LITTLE forward stick, you ninnie, wo, that one was screwed up CLUnk goes
the tool bag in the baggage. "0" G, says the panel-mounted G-meter. OK:
let's do that again, only let's not do THAT again.............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Also, I had 5 hours of RV time that I logged from other flights. I had a
sign off from a flight instructor who had an RV, and that was fine.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8a
>
> Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
> insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
> insured or did you need time in type?
>
> Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to take
> > trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
> >
> > Don Hesketh.
> > Tamworth England
> >
> >
There was a -6/-6A kit floating around our EAA chapter which
changed configurations a couple of times as it changed
hands. According to the owners, the front end change is
basically swapping the motor mount from the 'no gear leg
sockets' type to the 'gear leg sockets' type & back again.
With new parts, Van even took the unwanted motor mount in
trade.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8a |
Lorin:
I got mine through NationAir's VanGuard program (636-532-0023). Rates are
good. They required a CFI sign-off in an RV. I recently had a claim and
couldn't have been happier. An adjuster was at my plane within 2 hours of
my initial phone call and settled promptly and very fairly.
George
N888GK
flying
>From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: RV-8a
>Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 11:42:51 -0800
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
>
>Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
>insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
>insured or did you need time in type?
>
>Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Preston" <dprestonsr1(at)charter.net> |
Any body know of a 6, 7 or 8 with 540 engine?
Thanks,
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
Larry out at Troutdale(TTD) just finished changing his -6A to a -6. He
was unhappy with front wheel shimmy, but we know hw wanted a 6 all
along. It probably took him a month to do the conversion, with a
minimum of damage to his new paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie and Tupper England
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A to RV6 conversion
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to
take
> > trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
> >
> > Don Hesketh.
> > Tamworth England
> >
> >
There was a -6/-6A kit floating around our EAA chapter which
changed configurations a couple of times as it changed
hands. According to the owners, the front end change is
basically swapping the motor mount from the 'no gear leg
sockets' type to the 'gear leg sockets' type & back again.
With new parts, Van even took the unwanted motor mount in
trade.
Charlie
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV-8a |
I use Vanguard too. Cost is reasonable.
They would not insure in-motion without either a Vans transition sign-off
(not CFI), or until I had 25 hours in type. I bought not-in-motion coverage
and just flew the first 25 hours with no insurance.
Turns out the RV was quite easy to fly, but I did get about 10 hours
tailwheel in a Champ just before the first RV flight.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lorin l frank
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8a
--> RV8-List message posted by: "lorin l frank"
Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What
insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get
insured or did you need time in type?
Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: G-meter in panel |
>
>>My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in the panel, rather than on
>top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter
>on top of the glareshield)...........
>
>Not sure why you would want your G-meter on top of the glaresheild. What
>with all that room in the panel, why stick an instrument up there in the
>way. If you want it up there so you can monitor what you are doing during
>aerobatics, I don't think you would be looking at it while you are doing a
>maneuver. You are looking out there when doing aerobatics. By the time it
>shows you are doing something with too many Gs, it's too late to do much
>about it. If you blow a maneuver (don't ask me what I did this morning
>trying to improve my rolls) you will know it at the time and then you can
>look at the G-meter when you're done to see how badly you screwed up.
>Instruments on the glareshield, other than the compass, look like they were
>an afterthought. I don't even like to see the compass up there, sticking up.
>Especially in an airplane like the RVs as your face is pretty close to
>things. Something to consider when stopping a little too fast in a place you
>didn't plan on.
>
>Keep it in the panel. Mine is, up in the top row, right, where it is no
>problem finding it at any time. The compass is far right panel, by the way,
>and is pretty accurate there. When I look at it.
>
>JUST my opinion. You are going to be looking at that panel a long time and
>you want everything where you want it. Just something else to think
>about........
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>............Hard left aileron coming over to 180 now a little forward stick
>a LITTLE forward stick, you ninnie, wo, that one was screwed up CLUnk goes
>the tool bag in the baggage. "0" G, says the panel-mounted G-meter. OK:
>let's do that again, only let's not do THAT again.............
>
Hi Michael,
Thanks for your comments. I've done quite a bit of flying in
military aircraft with g-meters mounted on top of the glareshield,
and I really like having it in your direct line of sight when pulling
g. I don't think it will block any of my forward view, as I expect
to sit high enough that I'll see cowl behind the g-meter.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need RV-3 Photo's |
I just ordered a rv-3 tail kit and I was wanting to know if anyone knew of a construction
site with photo's that I could View.Or if anyone that has built a 3
can e-mail some photo's to me? I would be greatful.
Thanks
Jeff
Also does anyone have a e-mail address for Chuck Brietigam or a way to contact?
It's his plane on the van's web site under rv-3's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
I've seen a couple of RV-8s with the 540 but I only know of one RV-6 with a
540 (although I supposed there might be others). RV List member Boyd Braem
has a pretty interesting and very fast 540 powered RV-6 that can be seen
here. http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Florida%20RV's.htm
You can see a couple of pictures of a 540 powered RV8 here.
http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Shawnee2000.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Preston" <dprestonsr1(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> Any body know of a 6, 7 or 8 with 540 engine?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager? |
Hi Steve:
It is my understanding that you can contact Mike between the hours of 7&9 AM
at 503 429-5103 or at rv6(at)veronica.com.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mike Seager?
>
> I'm trying to get ahold of Mike Seager.
> I have an email addres but no response.
> Anybody have a phone number or other email address.
>
> Thankx
> Steve
> RV-7A
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tail spring modification ? |
Hi Russell:
Installed a full swivel some years ago, the machine shop had no trouble with
turning it.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: tail spring modification ?
>
> Greetings all,
>
> Hopefully, there are some machine shop types out there who might have an
> answer to my question. I have an RV-3B project that came with the
standard
> tailwheel and spring, but I plan to have a full swivel tailwheel. I
ordered
> a full swivel tailwheel and spring from Van's, knowing that it would be
too
> big in diameter to fit the tailwheel receptacle bracket that's already
> mounted in the plane.
>
> My plan (ignorance may be bliss) was to just have a machine shop put the
new
> spring in a lathe, and turn it down to 3/4" diameter to match the old
> spring. Now that I have the new part in hand, I'm starting to wonder if
this
> will be as easy as I thought. It just dawned on me that there was
probably
> some sort of heat treatment done to the new spring after it was originally
> shaped. Would that make it impossible to have someone turn it down on a
> lathe now? Would they have to remove the heat treatment somehow, and then
> re-treat it after the machining? If I go to a machine shop, will they
> expect me to know what kind of heat treatment was done, or will they be
able
> to measure it themselves?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 94 hours) FOR SALE
> RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7 |
Whoa there Steve, don't be fluting these babys.
I know they look flimsy & warped, but when skins are riveted on they will
pull straight & be very stiff. The "7" fuse is the same as the "9", they
even have the same part #. Mine all seemed like spaghetti when I started
them too.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9 (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
> Sent: February 7, 2002 7:18 AM
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7
>
>
> I'm in the process of straigtening the fuselage bulkheads. F-707,
> 705, 706
> etc (I think. Don't have the plans at work right now). They need A LOT of
> fluting since they are very distorted. Did others experience this
> as well?
> They are not critically bent, but they sure look warped and flimsy. Thankx
>
> Back to work,
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV-7A
> Finishing Wings (looking ahead)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
>snip
> I have a part built 6A. I would like to modify the engine mount to take
> trigear or taildagger legs. Has anyone done this ?
>
> Don Hesketh.
> Tamworth England
>
>
The following parts would have to be changed/modified.
Tri-gear engine mount changed for a taildragger model which includes main
gear mounting sockets. (Impractical to modify a trigear model)
Old main gear removed.
New main gear installed in engine mount sockets.
Brake lines rerouted to go through firewall and down main gear legs.
New gear leg fairings.
Modified or new wheel pants.
Near fuselage/gear leg/wheel pant intersection fairings.
Additional aft bulkhead installed resulting in two back to back bulkheads
with flanges faces both forward and aft.
Tailspring mount(steel) installed between F-611 & F-612 bulkheads.
Rudder horn drilled to tailwheel accept tailwheel steering chains.
Tailwheel spring, steering chains, and tailwheel installed.
Note that the fuel filler caps are in a more aft location on the fuel tank
skin in a -6A. Because of the lower tail position on the taildragger the
filler caps are more forward to facilitate complete filling of the tank.
For the most part it would be a simple parts exchange BUT the difficult part
would be adding the additional F-612 bulkhead necessary for tailwheel loads
and installing the tailwheel mount.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager? |
In a message dated 2/7/2002 8:06:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
> It is my understanding that you can contact Mike between the hours of 7&9 AM
> at 503 429-5103 or at rv6(at)veronica.com
Since this is probably the only time I will ever get to correct Eustace on
any plane related subject, I'm going to.
Mike can actually be reached at rv6(at)vernonia.com
Veronica is Archie and Jughead's friend.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G-meter in panel |
KostaLewis said:
> If you want it up there so you can monitor what you are doing during
> aerobatics, I don't think you would be looking at it while you are doing a
> maneuver. You are looking out there when doing aerobatics.
I agree in part. But I use it as a "reality check" when doing some
maneuvers -- for example, when I'm pulling up into a loop I kind of like to
know how many Gs I'm pulling, at least at this stage where I'm still
inexperienced enough to not have a good "feel" for the difference between,
say, 3 and 3.5 Gs. Also down the back side on the 45 inverted when doing a
Cuban 8 I was taught that it helps to get light but not too light just
before you do the half-roll -- I can play with that a bit and quickly glance
at the G meter to tell whether I'm 1/2 a G or 1/4 -- nice to have since when
I get that light I feel like I'm going negative but the G meter knows
better. Again, as I gain experience this becomes more seat of the pants but
in the meantime I like having it in my field of vision.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
PS. Any of you "still building guys" getting jealous yet? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager? |
you can contact mike at
rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com
i spoke to him today
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7 |
> Whoa there Steve, don't be fluting these babys.
> I know they look flimsy & warped, but when skins are riveted on
they will
> pull straight & be very stiff. The "7" fuse is the same as the "9", they
> even have the same part #. Mine all seemed like spaghetti when I started
> them too.
I would think there will have to be some fluting to do the curved portions
of the fuselage bulkheads if they're anything like the bulkheads on my
RV-6A. I had to flute those a tad to make them fit nicely. The sides just
needed some straightening to make them fit well to the sides. Just like the
ribs, etc., in other parts of the airframe, these will require a bit of
straightening to make for a nice fit. As all have said, they'll be nice and
strong, once in place.
One more thing. You will notice a few gaps between the skins and the
bulkheads. Rather than letting the rivet pull the skin into the bulkhead,
use a shim at each place where this misfit is. That way, you won't have
dents in the skin where the skin has been pulled in. That makes for a nicer
appearance.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jtgarner" <jtgarner(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Landing Light Hole |
Here'e another way to cut out the landing light hole. Pix 1: I made a
template from a heavy duty rubber mud flap (adjusted for the router collar)
and taped it on using an aggressive double stick tape and duct tape.
Pix 2: Drilling a starter hole for the router bit.
Pix 3: Routing out the hole with a carbide cutting bit.
Pix 4: Polishing with a Scoth-brite wheel.
Over and out,
Tom Garner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Don,
We run into this situation from time to time. Yes, you could have exchanged
props from 3/8 to 7/16. This occurs maybe 6 to 8 times a year. It's a shame
that the Lycoming O-320 comes in both flavors. Makes it a little more
difficult. Anyway, if you are still having any problems, contact me off the
list and we will get you fixed up.
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
>
>
> Note that the fuel filler caps are in a more aft location on the fuel tank
> skin in a -6A. Because of the lower tail position on the taildragger the
> filler caps are more forward to facilitate complete filling of the tank.
Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!, Show me in the plans where the fuel cap is placed
differently.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
There is a rv-6 at Venice,Fl that has a O-540,but he did a lot of
modification to fuselage.
Ollie---6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A to RV6 conversion |
Not true. The wing kits are completely interchangable. One could build a
tail and a wing, and still not have made up his mind as to whether to go
with a 6 or 6A. The decision is made when you purchase the fuselage kit.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A to RV6 conversion
>
> Note that the fuel filler caps are in a more aft location on the fuel tank
> skin in a -6A. Because of the lower tail position on the taildragger the
> filler caps are more forward to facilitate complete filling of the tank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Wiesel" <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A -underconstruction For Sale |
Dear Listers:
I regret that I must sell my project because of lack of time to complete. A
very tough decision for me, but better for the plane to fly than sit around
in the garage. This is a great opportunity for someone to take over and get
in the air that much sooner. Please pass along this info to anyone that may
be interested. Thanks in advance.
RV6A (under construction) - For Sale
Quickbuild Kit with Sliding Canopy.
Upgrades: Sam James Speed cowl and plenum
Sam James Speed wheel pants, wing fairing, leg fairings
(Upgrades will add about 12 knots to specs)
Current Status:
Entire structure complete:
Fuselage, wings, tail, engine, prop and cowl
Just needs avionics, upholstery and paint.
Specs:
Brand new 0-360 A1A engine from Vans
Brand new Constant Speed extended hub Hartzell prop from Vans
Brand new Mc Cauley Prop Governor from Vans
B & C 60 amp Alternator (best around)
Military grips
Leading Edge Lite Kit
Strobes Whelan Kit from Vans
Compass
Oil Cooler
Chromed/polished rudder pedals
Exhaust system -Vetterman Stainless Steel
Sam James engine plenum (better engine cooling and drag)
Sam James Speed cowl
Sam James Speed Wing and Legs fairings
Matronics Governors (2)
Electric elevator and aileron Trim
Lot of extra stuff I cant remember
Built with care and lots of love
Reason for sale: Moved to east coast and will not have the time to work on
it for a few years. Over 750 hours into the construction. All plans,
construction logs naturally. Plane is in my garage in San Jose, CA
Call or email for more info:
Dan
954-467-6650
or dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com
Dan
Dan Wiesel
Interlink Recruiting, Inc.
408-551-6554
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ATC initial contact protocal |
I don't want to sound like I am picking nits, but this reminds me of a
misunderstanding of many builders concerning the "manufacturer" of their
projects.
When you register your plane, the manufacturer is not Vans, or Richard
VanGrunsven, it is you; consequently, I am flying a Buchanan RV-6. This
is the protocol that should be followed when you register your plane.
I doubt ATC would be very impressed if I called in as "Buchanan RV-6
399SB", :-) so I just refer to the plane as an RV. This usually results
in ATC thinking I am a military flight (RV.......AR-MEE........)!
I realize the following post was in jest, just thought I would throw
this in for the benefit of current builders.
Sam Buchanan (AR-MEE 6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
=============================
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> > Question for those ATC types out there - Should I say "RV 57 ME
> > experimental" or should it be Romeo Victor 57 Mike Echo experimental"?
> >
> >
> Um, actually, according to the tradition of referring to spam by its
> creator's name (Cessna, Piper, etc) the phraseology should be, "Richard
> VanGrunsven 57 Mike Echo, experimental." I'll bet if you say that, the
> controller will come back to you with a better suggestion if he has one!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ATC initial contact protocal |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I don't want to sound like I am picking nits, but this reminds me of a
>misunderstanding of many builders concerning the "manufacturer" of their
>projects.
>
>When you register your plane, the manufacturer is not Vans, or Richard
>VanGrunsven, it is you; consequently, I am flying a Buchanan RV-6. This
>is the protocol that should be followed when you register your plane.
>
Along this same line, the model is whatever you say it is. The other day
someone said there is no such thing as an RV-4A. Well there is if that
is what the builder chooses to call it. Van calls my kit an RV-6, but I
could call it a Belchfire 9000 (make and model would be Pardue Belchfire
9000) if I so choose. I also choose the serial number.
That having been said there are some advantages, mainly to other people,
in following a naming convention that people understand.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstiel(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | O 320 A For Sale |
O 320 A For sale.
O 320 A 1500 TT 220 SMOH including acc.
Vac pump
Light weight starter
Alt
Ceramenil Cylinders
Rebuilt fuel pump
Rebuilt carburetor
New slick mags and harness
Roller rockers
Dynafocal mount
This is a first class rebuild on a certified engine. Ready to install and
fly!
All Logs since new All paperwork from rebuild included.
Recently removed from RV 4 Originally from Piper Pacer.
$10.500+Shipping Located in Northern Va.
703 494 9263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstiel(at)comcast.net |
O 320 A For sale.
O 320 A 1500 TT 220 SMOH including acc.
Vac pump
Light weight starter
Alt
Ceramenil Cylinders
Rebuilt fuel pump
Rebuilt carburetor
New slick mags and harness
Roller rockers
Dynafocal mount
This is a first class rebuild on a certified engine. Ready to install and
fly!
All Logs since new All paperwork from rebuild included.
Recently removed from RV 4 Originally from Piper Pacer.
$10.500+Shipping Located in Northern Va.
703 494 9263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstiel(at)comcast.net |
O 320 A For sale.
O 320 A 1500 TT 220 SMOH including acc.
Vac pump
Light weight starter
Alt
Ceramenil Cylinders
Rebuilt fuel pump
Rebuilt carburetor
New slick mags and harness
Roller rockers
Dynafocal mount
This is a first class rebuild on a certified engine. Ready to install and
fly!
All Logs since new All paperwork from rebuild included.
Recently removed from RV 4 Originally from Piper Pacer.
$10.500+Shipping Located in Northern Va.
703 494 9263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstiel(at)comcast.net |
O 320 A For sale.
O 320 A 1500 TT 220 SMOH including acc.
Vac pump
Light weight starter
Alt
Ceramenil Cylinders
Rebuilt fuel pump
Rebuilt carburetor
New slick mags and harness
Roller rockers
Dynafocal mount
This is a first class rebuild on a certified engine. Ready to install and
fly!
All Logs since new All paperwork from rebuild included.
Recently removed from RV 4 Originally from Piper Pacer.
$10.500+Shipping Located in Northern Va.
703 494 9263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How to compute fly-off time |
For the experts in the field of federal regulations. I was given a 40 hour
test flight period when my RV-6A was signed off. I assumed that this meant
that I had to fly it for 40 hours. Some say that counted in that 40 hours is
time spent on the ground doing taxi tests, checking the brakes and other
things done after the sign-off but before actually getting airborne. Any
advice from you folks?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: O 320 A For Sale |
In a message dated 2/8/2002 9:42:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gstiel(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> O 320 A For sale.
>
>
Do you have 8ea 0-320 for sale or did you get a little carried away with the
send button?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to compute fly-off time |
When the tach or hobbs flips over 40.0 your done. No questions asked. Most
people I know who have both time pieces go by the hobbs, it turns over faster
Gary
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> For the experts in the field of federal regulations. I was given a 40 hour
> test flight period when my RV-6A was signed off. I assumed that this meant
> that I had to fly it for 40 hours. Some say that counted in that 40 hours is
> time spent on the ground doing taxi tests, checking the brakes and other
> things done after the sign-off but before actually getting airborne. Any
> advice from you folks?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | tail spring modification ? |
Thanks for the comments both on and off list. It sounds like a machine shop
can turn down the new spring as I originally planned.
Cheers,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 94 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
Hi Russell:
Installed a full swivel some years ago, the machine shop had no trouble with
turning it.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: tail spring modification ?
>
> Greetings all,
>
> Hopefully, there are some machine shop types out there who might have an
> answer to my question. I have an RV-3B project that came with the
standard
> tailwheel and spring, but I plan to have a full swivel tailwheel. I
ordered
> a full swivel tailwheel and spring from Van's, knowing that it would be
too
> big in diameter to fit the tailwheel receptacle bracket that's already
> mounted in the plane.
>
> My plan (ignorance may be bliss) was to just have a machine shop put the
new
> spring in a lathe, and turn it down to 3/4" diameter to match the old
> spring. Now that I have the new part in hand, I'm starting to wonder if
this
> will be as easy as I thought. It just dawned on me that there was
probably
> some sort of heat treatment done to the new spring after it was originally
> shaped. Would that make it impossible to have someone turn it down on a
> lathe now? Would they have to remove the heat treatment somehow, and then
> re-treat it after the machining? If I go to a machine shop, will they
> expect me to know what kind of heat treatment was done, or will they be
able
> to measure it themselves?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 94 hours) FOR SALE
> RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A to RV6 conversion |
Gary,
I can't speak for the current plans, but my wing plans (circa 1996)
distinctly showed a more forward fuel cap position for the -6 vs -6a. I
don't think I'd worry about it if I was converting but the difference WAS
there at one point. I'll try to find the drawing as a matter of historic
curiosity.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> >
> >
> > Note that the fuel filler caps are in a more aft location
> on the fuel tank
> > skin in a -6A. Because of the lower tail position on the
> taildragger the
> > filler caps are more forward to facilitate complete filling
> of the tank.
>
> Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!, Show me in the plans where the fuel cap
> is placed
> differently.
>
>
> Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)superioravi.biz> |
INFORMATION ON THE XP360 AND SL360 IS NOW AVAILABLE @
WWW.SUPERIOR-AIR-PARTS.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A to RV6 conversion |
That makes perfect sense - the fuel filler neck would be at highest vertical
position and this position would be further forward for a -6 (sitting
tail-low, unless you're doing in-flight refueling :-) than a -6A (sitting
more or less level).
Cheers,
Brad
-6AQB...
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young [mailto:gyoung@cs-sol.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A to RV6 conversion
Gary,
I can't speak for the current plans, but my wing plans (circa 1996)
distinctly showed a more forward fuel cap position for the -6 vs -6a. I
don't think I'd worry about it if I was converting but the difference WAS
there at one point. I'll try to find the drawing as a matter of historic
curiosity.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> >
> >
> > Note that the fuel filler caps are in a more aft location
> on the fuel tank
> > skin in a -6A. Because of the lower tail position on the
> taildragger the
> > filler caps are more forward to facilitate complete filling
> of the tank.
>
> Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!, Show me in the plans where the fuel cap
> is placed
> differently.
>
>
> Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Yeah,
If I remember correctly Lycoming called for 7-9 inches of water delta across
the top to the bottom.
We measured this in another 6 and referenced to ambient as best we could and
found 7 on top and -2 on the bottom.
This converted into psi was very small, but then multiplied by the surface
area of the engine top made it about 70-90 lbs of upward force if I remember
correctly.
We also assumed that there probably wasn't much downward force coming from
the outside/top either, as the fuselage is close enough to a wing shape for
the top of it to be fairly low pressure.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7 |
I assumed that Steve was talking about the web as they are very warped &
flimsy out of the box, but possibly he was referring to the flange which
required very little fluting on mine. They were already formed very
precisely.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9 (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Sears
> Sent: February 8, 2002 3:55 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuselage Bulkheads RV-7
>
>
> > Whoa there Steve, don't be fluting these babys.
> > I know they look flimsy & warped, but when skins are riveted on
> they will
> > pull straight & be very stiff. The "7" fuse is the same as the "9", they
> > even have the same part #. Mine all seemed like spaghetti when I started
> > them too.
>
> I would think there will have to be some fluting to do the curved portions
> of the fuselage bulkheads if they're anything like the bulkheads on my
> RV-6A. I had to flute those a tad to make them fit nicely. The
> sides just
> needed some straightening to make them fit well to the sides.
> Just like the
> ribs, etc., in other parts of the airframe, these will require a bit of
> straightening to make for a nice fit. As all have said, they'll
> be nice and
> strong, once in place.
>
> One more thing. You will notice a few gaps between the skins and the
> bulkheads. Rather than letting the rivet pull the skin into the bulkhead,
> use a shim at each place where this misfit is. That way, you won't have
> dents in the skin where the skin has been pulled in. That makes
> for a nicer
> appearance.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
dear listers,
i need to know what happens when the manual trim system van sells for the
ailerons, is turned to the left. does the airplane get heavier on the left?
or does it get lighter? i have mine hooked up to a servo ala Wes Hayes's
design. it works off a mac switch on the grip. i'm having a hard time
understanding what is actually happening. but turning the handle to the left,
the stick stays centered, but the springs tighten on the control tube, and i
can't see any differance.
the reason i ask is when i push the left button, the light on the indicator
goes right, when i push right button, the light goes left. i know i can
switch 2 wires on the indicator, or turn it upside down to make the light go
the same direction as i am pushing, but do i want this?
some one with mac trim system or manual trim system , please help me.
thanks
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
--- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> dear listers,
> i need to know what happens when the manual trim system van sells for
> the
> ailerons, is turned to the left. does the airplane get heavier on the
> left?
> or does it get lighter? i have mine hooked up to a servo ala Wes
> Hayes's
> design. it works off a mac switch on the grip. i'm having a hard time
>
> understanding what is actually happening. but turning the handle to
> the left,
> the stick stays centered, but the springs tighten on the control
> tube, and i
> can't see any differance.
> the reason i ask is when i push the left button, the light on the
> indicator
> goes right, when i push right button, the light goes left. i know i
> can
> switch 2 wires on the indicator, or turn it upside down to make the
> light go
> the same direction as i am pushing, but do i want this?
> some one with mac trim system or manual trim system , please help me.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
>
>
Scott:
Being an Electrical Engineer, I have all manual tirm / flaps in my
airplane.
When you move the manual aileron trim to the right, the stick moves to
the right and the right aileron moves up. Move the manual trim to the
left, the stick moves to the left and the left aileron moves up.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,002.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
thanks gary,
thats what i needed to know. man i love this list.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
Here's one for all of you " 4 " drivers. On an rv-4
there is very little room for a plenum chamber. If you make enough room for
the engine to move about without hitting the cowling, then there is only
about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch's of space between the pushrod tubes and the
plenum top. Is this enough area for cooling air to enter the plenum and
cool the engine? I am hoping the answer is " yes " because i have mine
almost done.
thanks------------MIKE
[soon to be RV-4 driver]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tripp Myrick" <tmyrick(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195 For Sale |
For Sale: Garmin 195 GPS. Includes AA Battery pack, NiCad Battery
pack, remote antenna, yoke mount, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying
case and manual. Database current Apr 2001. Excellent condition.
$600. Contact me off-list at:
tmyrick(at)wans.net
(706) 660-8082
Tripp Myrick
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4
On the -4 with the standard cowl, a well constructed set of baffles can be
every bit as good as a plenum. The plenum does not make the connection to
the inlet orifices any easier and since the cowl is close, the plenum
probably doesn't enhance cooling measurably. As far as the tendency for the
cowl to rise, a couple of brackets on the lower engine mount tube and the
firewall flange make bolting points for the bottom of the cowl, effectively
controlling the rise. The cowl mounting hinges don't seem to break if the
parts are not fitted so tightly that the attachments are prestressed. Bolts
at the cowl nose (instead of hinge parts) are also helpful.
The above is opinion based on my own (no one else's) experience and
observations. Your mileage may vary.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
looking for uncompleted RV4 project...hopefully located in the
northwest....thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Torque value in heli-coil,will it be the same? |
In a message dated 2/8/2002 9:03:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
WPAerial(at)aol.com writes:
> Should you use the same torque values for a bolt used in a heli-coil as in a
>
> regular threaded hole?
Yes, but only if the Helicoil is a free-running (non-locking) thread.
Locking Helicoils, on the other hand, have a hexagonally shaped thread about
three threads down from the top and this provides a prevailing torque locking
feature. As is the case with all locking thread forms, the torque required
to overcome the prevailing (drag) torque of the locking feature must be added
to the book fastener torque to obtain the final torque value for a given
attachment.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
Thanks Gordon, every bit of info is helpful.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
Hey Scott--- Do you have friction in your control system? When I move my
trim to left the stick moves leftand vice-versa.If there is friction the
plane will be harder to control and I dont't think the trim will work very
well.Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
hi ollie
i have just a very little friction on the aileron direction. the elevator
direction is like silk. i suspect that i may need to ream the bushings in the
control tube connections, but the more i work it back and forth the smoother
it is getting.
thanks for your reply
scott tampa
ps you guys having a fly in soon?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello Listners,
I will be in Philly (western Suburb)for 10 days
beginning on Feb. 12. Any -8's, or any RV for that
matter, in the late fuse, finish or flying stage that
would like a visitor? I will be accessable my cell #.
Thanks
Frank Dombroski
-8 QB Fuse
480-363-0858
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | POH, was: lycoming front seal |
>
>Were is Mike's POH stored? My hard drive ate it & I forgot who stores it
>for him.
Mike Robertson's POH for the RV-8A is on my web site. Link is in the
Misc. section on my RV Links Page:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Or go direct to the zip file at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/robertson/rv8apoh.zip
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, tailwind-list(at)matronics.com,
yak-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Project For Sale... |
Listers,
I've decided I want an RV-7 and am selling my RV-4 Airframe Project. Below
are two URLs with tons of pictures of the project. Please note that *only*
the items listed specifically below are being sold. The avionics, engine,
prop, etc. shown in the pictures will be kept for my next project.
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/
I would prefer not split this stuff up and will sell it as a package deal
only. Wings and tanks are 95% done and are wired for Whelen Strobes and
position lights. Fin, Rudder, Horz Stab are complete. Elevators are 50%
complete. Fuselage is about 80% complete with canopy completely
installed. Fuselage is on the gear, but little work FWF has been
done. The cutout in the FW for the prop governor has been started.
Workmanship is good throughout the kit.
Here is a list of the items included in the sale:
Van's RV-4 Kit (Emp/Wing/Fuse/Finish)
Vetterman Exhaust (Crossover)
Engine Baffle Kit
Filtered Air Box
2 Lever Quadrants
F&R Seat Belts
Molded Stick Grips
Electric Elevator Trim Kit
Electric Aileron Trim Kit
Electric Flap Kit
Fuel Tank Flop Tubes L&R
Fuel Selector Valve
Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Full Swivel Tailwheel Assy
Heat Selector
Bob Olds Landing Lights L&R
Tires & Tubes
Tailwheel Fairing
Fiberglass Gear Fairings
Temperfoam Front and Rear Seats w/ Upholstery
New Light Weight Prepreg Cowling for CS O360
This list of items represents an investment of over $17,000. I will sell
the whole thing for $11,000 firm. I can accept M/C or Visa for an
additional 4% of the sale amount.
I will crate the entire kit as listed above for shipment anywhere in the
continental US for an additional $600. Freight charges will be COD via the
carrier of your choice.
For further information, please contact me via email at dralle(at)matronics.com
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Philly Visit |
Frank,
Can't help you in Philly, but I have an RV-8 flying just north of
Allentown. Maybe we could meet up.
Jim Cimino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Dombroski" <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Philly Visit
>
> Hello Listners,
>
> I will be in Philly (western Suburb)for 10 days
> beginning on Feb. 12. Any -8's, or any RV for that
> matter, in the late fuse, finish or flying stage that
> would like a visitor? I will be accessable my cell #.
>
> Thanks
> Frank Dombroski
> -8 QB Fuse
> 480-363-0858
>
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
Hi Scott---Yes,we are having a fly-in here Mar 9th and it will also be the
Mar RV get together.Will yours be finished?
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | aileron riveting in tight spots |
Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult, in
some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used pop
rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I purchase.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming front seal |
I had the local A/P man do mine. He used a large screw driver and loud grunts
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron riveting in tight spots |
Hi;
The usual advice is to predimple the skin and aft portion of the ribs before
assembly. You may have to gently open up the rib flanges at the aft end to
get a hand riveter with dimple dies in place to do the dimple and then
rebend the flanges.
A useful bucking bar for such locations can be improvised from a "splitting
wedge", a good size chunk of steel normally sold at Home Depot, etc. for
chopping up wood for one's fireplace. Simply file and grind the appropriate
location flat and polish to taste and this will work fine.
Jim Oke
RV-3
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <>
Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting in tight spots
>
> Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
> There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult,
in
> some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used
pop
> rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I
purchase.
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
In a message dated 2/8/2002 6:19:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> Here's one for all of you " 4 " drivers. On an rv-4
> there is very little room for a plenum chamber. If you make enough room
> for
> the engine to move about without hitting the cowling, then there is only
> about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch's of space between the pushrod tubes and the
> plenum top. Is this enough area for cooling air to enter the plenum and
> cool the engine? I am hoping the answer is " yes " because i have mine
> almost done.
> thanks------------MIKE
>
> [soon to be RV-4 driver]
>
>
Yes there is room, the tight clearence problem is at the four
corners above the cylinders, Mine touch the cowl during inverted flight.
,
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming front seal |
Watching Richard Trulson install the front seal on my rebuilt crank was
the most violent, brutal, gruesome, dastardly event I have ever
witnessed near an RV!
He covered the flange with duct tape, smeared STP oil treatment all over
everything, and after a minute of flying elbows, a couple of BIG
screwdrivers, splatters of STP and several unintelligible utterances,
the seal was in place. I couldn't bear to watch after the first few
seconds, but after the noise and fury was over, the seal miraculously
returned to it's original shape and size.
I was told this was more or less the official Lycoming way to install
the seal.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
==========================
Planejoel(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I had the local A/P man do mine. He used a large screw driver and loud grunts
> Joe
> RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manual trim system |
no
my inspection is set for march 14th. looks like i'll have to make aprils
meeting.
take care
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Dent filler for aileron skins? |
Anyone have suggestions as to a good filler for minor aileron skin dents?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron riveting in tight spots |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting in tight spots
>
> Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
> There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult,
in
> some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used
pop
> rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I
purchase.
> Thanks, Bob
>
Bob: If you are referring to the rivets that attach the nose skin and the
aft skin to the aileron spar flanges, upper and lower, here's what I did: A
bucking bar assembly was made up of two parts. The first is a length of
cold rolled steel approx. 3/8 x 2 and more or less 5 feet long. A shoe was
fashioned from a piece of keystock (any square stock would do) about 4
inches long with one side beveled to resemble the angle formed by the spar
web and flanges. The flange angles are not identical but close enough that
one tool is ok. The cr bar was taped to prevent scratches and the shoe was
affixed to the bar with double faced tape in about the center of one edge of
the long bar. The end ribs were left out while riveting and the aileron was
fixtured so the rivet holes to be filled were looking downward and at enough
of an angle the the bar would rest against the spar web. Starting at the
center a rivet is inserted against the shoe and pushed into place, lifting
the shoe and bar combination. A shot with the rivet gun sets the rivet very
nicely. The 2X gun I used needed only about 4 hits to properly set a 3/32
rivet. The bar is slid along then from rivet to rivet. I used the method
on all the spar/skin rivets, top and bottom. When finished, the end ribs
are put in place and riveted in the normal way, using whatever method you
prefer.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | aileron riveting in tight spots |
Bob,
I just used a "mini" bucking bar that I made from a 1" square steel stock.
The final dimensions are about 1"x1"x2". It's turned out to be one of the
most valuable bars that I have. Only one caveat.
I know of a person who was using that mini bucking bar in the aileron in the
location you described. This person was careless and overconfident. On one
of the last rivets towards the outboard side, this person let the bucking
bar fall off the rivet head for a couple of "bangs". This created an
unsightly dent. Boy-glad that wasn't me!:)
Anyway, a small bar works well in those type areas.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Just bled the brakes! (what a mess I made)!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting in tight spots
Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult,
in
some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used pop
rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I purchase.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Dent filler for aileron skins? |
Bob,
This subject came up awhile back. Please see my post on your "bucking bar"
question. How do I know about his. Well, some little gremlin put a dent on
my aileron caused by a bucking bar. I've used superfill to fill. Seems to
work good for me!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
Do Not Achive (already in the archives).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Dent filler for aileron skins?
Anyone have suggestions as to a good filler for minor aileron skin dents?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent filler for aileron skins? |
Superfil or Bondo if it is deeper than 1/16". If not, then I like to use
Evercoat.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dent filler for aileron skins?
>
> Anyone have suggestions as to a good filler for minor aileron skin dents?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Kentucky Builders |
Tax time, what about the KY use tax on out of state purchases. Sould I
put the cost of my tail kit and wing kit on my state return and go ahead
and pay the 6% tax now? If I do not won't they find out when I N-number
the plane and then I'll have to pay and might even get fined for not
paying the year I purchased? Let me know!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
Thanks Fred--------------it's good to hear from
someone that has done it. i think it's worth it and i'm almost done with
it. MIKE [ rv-4 in flower planter stage]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SL360 AND XP360 |
Doesn't work on older versions of Netscape, but does on Explorer.
RS
At 02:39 PM 2/8/02, you wrote:
>WWW.SUPERIOR-AIR-PARTS.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming front seal |
Don,
All the mentioned procedures will work for the one
piece seal. I have had very good luck with the split
seal as well.
Stewart RV-4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports? |
larry
the pitot static kit , had all the necessary parts. you have to order it
seperatly, if i remember correctly.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tripp Myrick" <tmyrick(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 195 For Sale |
Garmin 195 has been sold.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tripp Myrick" <tmyrick(at)wans.net>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 195 For Sale
>
> For Sale: Garmin 195 GPS. Includes AA Battery pack, NiCad Battery
> pack, remote antenna, yoke mount, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying
> case and manual. Database current Apr 2001. Excellent condition.
> $600. Contact me off-list at:
>
> tmyrick(at)wans.net
> (706) 660-8082
>
> Tripp Myrick
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I swear I remember seeing them during the fuse (or wing?) inventory
though. Two abnormally large pop rivets, that I decided at the time,
were for the static ports. Then I guess I set them aside so I wouldn't
loose them.... :(
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> larry
> the pitot static kit , had all the necessary parts. you have
> to order it
> seperatly, if i remember correctly.
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
| Subject: | Setting up wings... |
I got my wings installed yesterday, it took two of us 30 min to do
both... My question is this... Do I need to put nuts on the bolts and
tighten them down before I set the wings and drill the rear spar attach?
I don't want to have any stress on anything in the end...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron riveting in tight spots |
You may already have a bucking bar that will work and don't realize it! I
took the head off of my Avery squeezer and used it. It's thin and small and
does a great job.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting in tight spots
>
> Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
> There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult,
in
> some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used
pop
> rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I
purchase.
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
In a message dated 2/9/2002 7:20:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> Thanks Fred--------------it's good to hear from
>
> someone that has done it. i think it's worth it and i'm almost done with
> it. MIKE [ rv-4 in flower planter stage]
>
>
Mike, I think you will be pleased, it will cool great and I swear
you`ll get a couple extra knots speed.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Dang it, leaky leaky... |
To all,
After sweating it out for months, I finally put fuel in the tanks. The left
is very slowly weeping through 3 aft botton seam rivets. Is there anything
short of sloshing the tanks? Silly, but would roughing the small area, and
prosealing work?
What slosh is recommended?
Dan
N417SN, was running engine/taxi testing.
81243
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
Dan,
Try mixing some proseal and thinner and working it under the seam.
ray rv6a
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky...
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> To all,
>
> After sweating it out for months, I finally put fuel in the tanks. The
left
> is very slowly weeping through 3 aft botton seam rivets. Is there anything
> short of sloshing the tanks? Silly, but would roughing the small area, and
> prosealing work?
>
> What slosh is recommended?
>
> Dan
> N417SN, was running engine/taxi testing.
> 81243
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
You indicated that $28K was too much. I would be willing to sell the
RV-4 project *without* engine, instruments, and avionics for $14K OBO.
Interested?
Thank you.
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: "old ogre" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: RV-List: wanted:
>
> looking for uncompleted RV4 project...hopefully located in the
> northwest....thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
Now that the dust has settled regarding my query about exhaust heat
on antennas I should add one of the reasons that prompted my
question, that I forgot to mention.
There apparently is an add on, de-ice system that a home builder
might be interested in. It is comparatively (for a de-ice system) low
cost. With this system, ThermaWing, it might be reasonable to think
about losing your external antennas.
I don't know much about This de-ice system, it was just mentioned to
me by another pilot.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
Dan,
I have one rivet leaking. I am going to drill it out and shove some proseal in
and then pop one of the sealed rivets in.
Stan
N188sm 50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
I think I would like to install the 9 gal wing tanks from Vans. To my way of
thinking it would be good insurance. Has anyone out there got any pros or
cons preferably people who have installed and used them.
Joe
RV6A 0360/CP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
In a message dated 2/10/2002 8:29:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net writes:
> After sweating it out for months, I finally put fuel in the tanks. The left
> is very slowly weeping through 3 aft bottom seam rivets. Is there anything
> short of sloshing the tanks? Silly, but would roughing the small area, and
> prosealing work?
Cleaning, roughening and re-Prosealing will work. Some have used positive
pressure on the outside and slight negative pressure on the inside to suck
the Proseal into the breach.
> What slosh is recommended?
No slosh is good slosh.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Project For Sale... |
Matt, I am interested. I know you have your heart set
on a -7 but I have an 8QB in the box I would swap out
with you as well. Let me know.
Rob
--- Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've decided I want an RV-7 and am selling my RV-4
> Airframe Project. Below
> are two URLs with tons of pictures of the project.
> Please note that *only*
> the items listed specifically below are being sold.
> The avionics, engine,
> prop, etc. shown in the pictures will be kept for my
> next project.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/
>
> I would prefer not split this stuff up and will sell
> it as a package deal
> only. Wings and tanks are 95% done and are wired
> for Whelen Strobes and
> position lights. Fin, Rudder, Horz Stab are
> complete. Elevators are 50%
> complete. Fuselage is about 80% complete with
> canopy completely
> installed. Fuselage is on the gear, but little work
> FWF has been
> done. The cutout in the FW for the prop governor
> has been started.
>
> Workmanship is good throughout the kit.
>
> Here is a list of the items included in the sale:
>
> Van's RV-4 Kit (Emp/Wing/Fuse/Finish)
> Vetterman Exhaust (Crossover)
> Engine Baffle Kit
> Filtered Air Box
> 2 Lever Quadrants
> F&R Seat Belts
> Molded Stick Grips
> Electric Elevator Trim Kit
> Electric Aileron Trim Kit
> Electric Flap Kit
> Fuel Tank Flop Tubes L&R
> Fuel Selector Valve
> Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
> Full Swivel Tailwheel Assy
> Heat Selector
> Bob Olds Landing Lights L&R
> Tires & Tubes
> Tailwheel Fairing
> Fiberglass Gear Fairings
> Temperfoam Front and Rear Seats w/
> Upholstery
> New Light Weight Prepreg Cowling for CS
> O360
>
> This list of items represents an investment of over
> $17,000. I will sell
> the whole thing for $11,000 firm. I can accept M/C
> or Visa for an
> additional 4% of the sale amount.
>
> I will crate the entire kit as listed above for
> shipment anywhere in the
> continental US for an additional $600. Freight
> charges will be COD via the
> carrier of your choice.
>
> For further information, please contact me via email
> at dralle(at)matronics.com
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore |
> CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F |
> dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products
> For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers:
There is a RV6QB for sale here in the same hanger where I'm building my 8,
Festus,MO. (FES) The kit is complete,never started, wings still in crate.
If interested contact me off line, or on line and I'll refer you to the
owner.
Chris santschi RV8 80881 Painting the Interior.
rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com
636-937-7033
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B |
You've only got to stand the ads long enough to sign up for the
e-mail list. Once you're on the list, the e-mail messages don't have
any ads. Just a few lines of stuff at the bottom. The e-mail list
is a super list for -8 or -8A builders. Once you sign up, you never
have to go back to the web site again. Never. Try it. It's a great
list for -8/8A builders.
Kevin
>
>I just tried that site. First I saw an obstrusive colorful blinking
>advetisement. End of site.
>
>Greg
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B
>
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for
>RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that
>seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo,
><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many
>messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there
>seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List.
>
>Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
You might want to consider using some CS3204-a compound available from
SealPak in Wichita (316) 942-6211. It's a more liquified version of the
stuff Van's sells (CS3204-b). You can get in it two versions - 1/2 hr pot
life an 2 hr pot life. I know they sell it by the half-pint, maybe smaller.
It flows real nicely and hardens to the same consistency as the thicker
stuff. Specs are available at Flamemaster.com - the manufacturer. Good
luck.
Dave
6A Ultra Slow Build Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
I have an RV-6 bottom rudder w/light fairing I would like to swap with
someone for the non-light type.
Thanks,
Rob Acker (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Project For Sale... |
Workmanship is good is an understatemnt, I have seen
Matts RV-4 in person and it is super good. The price
he is asking means someone it stealing it.
Jerry
> Workmanship is good throughout the kit.
>
> Here is a list of the items included in the sale:
>
> Van's RV-4 Kit (Emp/Wing/Fuse/Finish)
> Vetterman Exhaust (Crossover)
> Engine Baffle Kit
> Filtered Air Box
> 2 Lever Quadrants
> F&R Seat Belts
> Molded Stick Grips
> Electric Elevator Trim Kit
> Electric Aileron Trim Kit
> Electric Flap Kit
> Fuel Tank Flop Tubes L&R
> Fuel Selector Valve
> Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
> Full Swivel Tailwheel Assy
> Heat Selector
> Bob Olds Landing Lights L&R
> Tires & Tubes
> Tailwheel Fairing
> Fiberglass Gear Fairings
> Temperfoam Front and Rear Seats w/
> Upholstery
> New Light Weight Prepreg Cowling for CS
> O360
>
> This list of items represents an investment of over
> $17,000. I will sell
> the whole thing for $11,000 firm. I can accept M/C
> or Visa for an
> additional 4% of the sale amount.
>
> Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | e-mail address change for The Panel Pilot |
Listers,
I have changed my email address. Please make a note if you are trying to reach
me, I still have the old one but use this one. sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com
Thanks
Steve Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
| From: | John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com> |
I had a small leak in a rivet on my RV-6 that I cured as follows:
Drain tank.
Remove the tank and lay it flat, upside down with gas cap tightly closed.
Cap off the vent line.
Hook up a piece of tubing to the gas pick up bulkhead fitting in the
access cover..
Create a low pressure vacuum in the tank by sucking on the tubing and
closing the end off. (Good check on your lung capacity!).
Apply a small amount of "Locktite" thread locking liquid to the leak and
let it get sucked in and allowed to set up and seal off the hole.
If you let the stuff pool around the rivet head, you may be able to tell
if it is being pulled into the opening, at any rate, it should be drawn
into the hole enough to seal it off providing it's not too big.. I
recall that the product comes in a little dark red tube and can be
purchased at auto parts stores.
Good luck,
Boyd Seal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
The proper grade of Loctite for this application is #290 which is designated by
Loctite as "wicking"
grade for sealing of pre assembled fasteners or sealing of porosity in welds, tanks
etc. #290
Loctite is green in colour and is very thin as it comes from the bottle so as to
be drawn into fine
spaces by capillary action. The product data sheet can be found at:
http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_290.pdf
Hope this is helpful
Bob McC
John B Seal wrote:
>
> I had a small leak in a rivet on my RV-6 that I cured as follows:
>
>
> Apply a small amount of "Locktite" thread locking liquid to the leak and
> let it get sucked in and allowed to set up and seal off the hole.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Boyd Seal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul D. Franzon" <paulf(at)ncsu.edu> |
I recently purchased an RV-4 with tip tanks. The extra 1.5 hours of
endurance is certainly useful. However, their position and general fuel
system hydraulics does cause some minor problems...
o Unless the fuel caps are seated just "perfectly" they leak through the
caps in flight. The fuel loss is minor but annoying. Possibly
new caps might fix it but the caps seem OK.
o WHen full on the ground, they cross-feed and one of the tanks vents out
through the overflow vent. This can be handled in one of two ways
1. Design the fuel valves so that the tanks can be isolated from each
other.
2. Dont fill them until just before you intend to fly!
Paul D. Franzon
Professor of ECE
443 EGRC
paulf(at)ncsu.edu 919.515.7351, fax. 919.515.2285
www.ece.ncsu.edu/erl/faculty/paulf.html
USPS : ECE, Box 7914, NCSU, Raleigh NC 27695
FedEx : EGRC 419, 1010 Main Campus Dve., Raleigh NC 27604
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 vs. RV-6 Empennage |
Hi, I am just finishing a -4 with an -8 empanage. I havn't flown yet, but
the fit is perfect and all I had to do is a small mod to the vertical stab
front spar attachment. Of course its larger than the original, but the
concensus here is that a bit more area won't hurt. I have a 360 and a
constant speed prop so the front end is heavy. I like the looks. Why, I
bought the project with the empanage completed by the original owner. When
it came time to fit to my fuse, I discovered several construction flaws that
I did not think I could fix. A -8 empanage was available in the local area
so built that and found that it fit perfectly. The rest of the story will
have to wait for a few more weeks.
Ray Grenier N20RG
Can see the light!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming front seal |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)superioravi.biz> |
of course getting the split seal for your engine makes all this a little
easier, but be careful, a certain split seal has a notorious leak history.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Tip Tanks |
>
>I recently purchased an RV-4 with tip tanks. The extra 1.5 hours of
>endurance is certainly useful. However, their position and general fuel
>system hydraulics does cause some minor problems...
>
>o Unless the fuel caps are seated just "perfectly" they leak through the
>caps in flight. The fuel loss is minor but annoying. Possibly
> new caps might fix it but the caps seem OK.
>
>o WHen full on the ground, they cross-feed and one of the tanks vents out
>through the overflow vent. This can be handled in one of two ways
> 1. Design the fuel valves so that the tanks can be isolated from each
>other.
> 2. Dont fill them until just before you intend to fly!
>
>Paul D. Franzon
>Professor of ECE
>443 EGRC
>paulf(at)ncsu.edu 919.515.7351, fax. 919.515.2285
>www.ece.ncsu.edu/erl/faculty/paulf.html
>USPS : ECE, Box 7914, NCSU, Raleigh NC 27695
>FedEx : EGRC 419, 1010 Main Campus Dve., Raleigh NC 27604
>
I looked into the tip tanks, and may fit them someday. Jon suggests
one way to plumb them is with an electrically operated solenoid valve
in the line from each tip tank to the main tank. That way you would
only select the feed when you wanted it (i.e. airborne, and already
burned 10 gal out of that side).
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 Steel Fuselage Jig Available in NE PA |
I have a steel fuselage jig for an RV4 available in North East Pennsylavnia.
Anyone interested contact me off list.
Pat Perry
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List: RV-9 --- RV-8 (or RV-9 tail kit for sale) |
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
I am just coming down the home stretch on my RV-4 project. My insurance
company requires me to get an RV check out. I had planned to contact the
fellow in FL who recently checked out another local builder, but from this
list I have learned that he no longer provides this service. I am planning
to drive down from NH to FL for Sun and Fun and wondering if anyone on the
list knows of someone somewhere along the route who is doing checkouts.
Thanks for any info.
Ray Grenier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matts RV-4 Project For Sale... |
On 2/11 Eric wrote:
> Uh Guys,
>
> Are we a family here or not. I think its time for an intervention. Jerry,
> Randall, you guys hold Matts legs while I sedate him, don't let him kick
> me. I'll try not to spill too much beer on his shirt while I pour it in
> him.
Matt, I second Eric's opinion here. As one who spent over 10 years on an
RV-4 it is worth the wait and then some. The amount of time spent only
increases the fun and satisfaction.
Why don't some of you guys in Matt's area, that are finished and wondering
what to do with your time, organize a regular fly-in work session to his
place and help finish that bird.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
Savannah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
Don't use a mechanical pump of you will collapse the tank!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John B Seal" <j.seal(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky...
I had a small leak in a rivet on my RV-6 that I cured as follows:
Drain tank.
Remove the tank and lay it flat, upside down with gas cap tightly closed.
Cap off the vent line.
Hook up a piece of tubing to the gas pick up bulkhead fitting in the
access cover..
Create a low pressure vacuum in the tank by sucking on the tubing and
closing the end off. (Good check on your lung capacity!).
Apply a small amount of "Locktite" thread locking liquid to the leak and
let it get sucked in and allowed to set up and seal off the hole.
If you let the stuff pool around the rivet head, you may be able to tell
if it is being pulled into the opening, at any rate, it should be drawn
into the hole enough to seal it off providing it's not too big.. I
recall that the product comes in a little dark red tube and can be
purchased at auto parts stores.
Good luck,
Boyd Seal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Flap relay trouble |
I'm in the process of hooking up all the little wires coming from my
Infinity grip. Last night and this morning, everything worked like a
charm. I was waiting for the proverbial other shoe to drop and I wasn't
disappointed.
After wiring my flap relay to the toggle switch in the grip, I applied
the power and gave it a try. Flaps up worked fine, but flaps down
doesn't do a thing. I did some troubleshooting and concluded that: the
flap motor is good, the switch in the grip is good, and the wiring
(Molex pins) is good. Can it be that I have a bad relay? Can it be
something else? What have I missed?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming front seal |
If you use some "crazy glue" to glue the split together before hooking up
the spring, you will not have the split to leak.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)superioravi.biz>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming front seal
of course getting the split seal for your engine makes all this a little
easier, but be careful, a certain split seal has a notorious leak history.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I would contact Mike Seagar as he generally does the checks around SnF time.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRENIER(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Check out
I am just coming down the home stretch on my RV-4 project. My insurance
company requires me to get an RV check out. I had planned to contact the
fellow in FL who recently checked out another local builder, but from this
list I have learned that he no longer provides this service. I am planning
to drive down from NH to FL for Sun and Fun and wondering if anyone on the
list knows of someone somewhere along the route who is doing checkouts.
Thanks for any info.
Ray Grenier
________________________________________________________________________________
HI RAY
mike seager will be stopping in kissemme florida proir to sun n fun, i'm
still waiting on a reply to see if he will be doing some transition
trainning. he is planning a day with me ( in Tampa ) to test fly my plane and
transition me into it. as soon as i know what his schedule is going be like,
i'll post it to the list.
scott
tampa
registration papers in the mail, inspection march 14, whooo hoooo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming front seal |
I've been battling a leaky front seal for almost a year now. For several
months, it's just been annoying. now I'm losing a good bit of oil out the
front of the engine. I was convinced it was caused by excessive blowby. I
am in the middle of a condition inspection and have found compression cold
at 79,76,75 & 64/80. The crankcase breather was clear and unobstructed,
5/8" heater hose. I had planned to go to 3/4" heater hose and a larger
outlet tubing section. I did not super-glue the split on my main seal. I
used orange RTV as I recall. Any experienced opinions on whether this is a
leaky seal split line or a leaky seal caused by excessive case pressure.
Thanks for the help in advance. sure don't want to pull the prop unless I
just have to .
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>If you use some "crazy glue" to glue the split together before hooking up
>the spring, you will not have the split to leak.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
hi ken
i just went through the same problem. what i did to find out where the
problem was. get a good digital volt meter, at the flap motor connection,
have some one work the switch while you check the voltage. it should read +
12 volts in one direction and -12 volts in the other direction. that shows
that the relays are reversing polarity to the flap motor. if it is good at
the motor connection, the motor is the problem, if it isn't good at the flap
motor, move 1 connection closer to the relays, and check it the same way.
work yourself all the way back to the grip until you find the problem. i was
lucky and found a broken solder joint on one flap motor lead at the flap
motor connection. it was only letting it go 1 way. once i resoldered the
connection everything was good to go.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
Did you say that it worked, and now it doesn't? Check to be sure that both
positions have a ground via the relay. I have a diagram on my website that
shows how this is wired.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap relay trouble
>
> I'm in the process of hooking up all the little wires coming from my
> Infinity grip. Last night and this morning, everything worked like a
> charm. I was waiting for the proverbial other shoe to drop and I wasn't
> disappointed.
>
> After wiring my flap relay to the toggle switch in the grip, I applied
> the power and gave it a try. Flaps up worked fine, but flaps down
> doesn't do a thing. I did some troubleshooting and concluded that: the
> flap motor is good, the switch in the grip is good, and the wiring
> (Molex pins) is good. Can it be that I have a bad relay? Can it be
> something else? What have I missed?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> last 90%
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Setting up wings... |
Bill, I chickened out and didn't install the bolts on mine. I know the wing
attach methods are a little different between the 4 and the 8 but would you
mind telling me in detail what you did? Did you run into anything that I
should watch out for? I always put things on too early and then have a
devil of a time doing something that I should have done BEFORE I put that
part on. Run into any of those situations?
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: RV-List: Setting up wings...
I got my wings installed yesterday, it took two of us 30 min to do
both... My question is this... Do I need to put nuts on the bolts and
tighten them down before I set the wings and drill the rear spar attach?
I don't want to have any stress on anything in the end...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com> |
| Subject: | Baffles and Air inlet ramps |
I am in the process of final trimming on the baffles and wanted to see what
others have done with the interface to the fiberglass cooling ramps on the
top cowl. I have looked at photos on the web and have seen that there are
two schools of thought on this. The first being to trim the side baffles to
match the curve of the air inlet ramp. The second is to have the side
baffle and cowl seal go to the outside of the fiberglass ramp. From the
folks who are flying, what are the pros and cons of each option? Which is
easier to remove and which provides a better seal? also, what do you do
with the interface with the baffles behind the spinner/ring gear. Thanks in
advance.
Dan Frank
RV-8 FWF
http:\\n808vr.homestead.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Breather/Separator |
Using an M-20 on my Lycoming-O-320 in an RV6A and it works as
advertised...pricey, but effective. No oil on belly. Aircraft Spruce cheapie
didn't do the job very well in my experience.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Tip Tanks |
My RV-6A has 155 hours on it, all with a set of Jon's tanks installed. They
are plumbed as per the drawings that accompanied the tanks. The tip tanks
are connected to their respective main tanks by a 3/8" fuel line, with only
an in-line check valve between them. BTW, these tip tanks can be installed
without removing the main tanks.
I considered several methods for isolating the tips from the main tanks.
However, after studying all the options, I could not find value added in any
of them. I kept returning to the idea that in every case I want to feed tip
fuel first. As a retired Field Service Engineer I also appreciate the KISS
principal, why install hardware that has the potential for failure and can
only adversely effect the way I intend to utilize the system? I also tend
to never argue against success, Jon has flown his RV-4 around the world
three times with the tips plumbed in this manner!
I have had two negative experiences with the installation. The first was a
small fuel seep from the main tank caps when the tips are full. I corrected
that by installing a very thin Teflon washer under the small "O" ring seal
on the main tank caps. If you measure the depth of the recess that contains
this seal you will find that the depth is greater than the thickness of the
"O" ring. Therefore, when the cap is latched down, the seal is not
compressed in thickness. This allows a small seep when the cap is under
pressure. This leakage can also be mitigated by maintaining a coat of fuel
resistant grease (I use petrolatum) on all cap seals, which you should be
doing anyway. The second problem was that the tips would only feed about 5
gallons into the mains during cruise. When power was reduced to land, they
would then feed empty! I corrected this by reducing the 45 degree angle of
the main tank vent fitting to 40 degrees. The relative speed of the
propeller slip stream is greater than the free air stream, therefore the
main tank vent system pressurized the main tank to a higher pressure than
the tip tank at cruise power. This was not discussed in the instructions,
but after two flights it was pretty easy to figure out.
Installed in accordance with the drawings provided, these tanks work great
and provide unmatched flight planning flexibility. Remember, the only time
you can have too much fuel onboard is when you are on fire!
Bob Hasson
Tucson, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Tip Tanks
>
>>
>>I recently purchased an RV-4 with tip tanks. The extra 1.5 hours of
>>endurance is certainly useful. However, their position and general fuel
>>system hydraulics does cause some minor problems...
>>
>>o Unless the fuel caps are seated just "perfectly" they leak through the
>>caps in flight. The fuel loss is minor but annoying. Possibly
>> new caps might fix it but the caps seem OK.
>>
>>o WHen full on the ground, they cross-feed and one of the tanks vents out
>>through the overflow vent. This can be handled in one of two ways
>> 1. Design the fuel valves so that the tanks can be isolated from each
>>other.
>> 2. Dont fill them until just before you intend to fly!
>>
>>Paul D. Franzon
>>Professor of ECE
>>443 EGRC
>>paulf(at)ncsu.edu 919.515.7351, fax. 919.515.2285
>>www.ece.ncsu.edu/erl/faculty/paulf.html
>>USPS : ECE, Box 7914, NCSU, Raleigh NC 27695
>>FedEx : EGRC 419, 1010 Main Campus Dve., Raleigh NC 27604
>>
>I looked into the tip tanks, and may fit them someday. Jon suggests
>one way to plumb them is with an electrically operated solenoid valve
>in the line from each tip tank to the main tank. That way you would
>only select the feed when you wanted it (i.e. airborne, and already
>burned 10 gal out of that side).
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
The motor works with its leads touched to a battery, the switch in the grip
grounds each of its wires (flaps up & down) appropriately, but the flaps only
go up when power is applied with the whole circuit assembled. Selecting flaps
down doesn't do a thing.
I'm using Van's flap control board, which has six terminals (+V, ground, flaps
up (from switch), flaps down (from switch), + and - (to the flap motor)). With
power applied to the circuit, selecting flaps up results in 12v at one of the
relay output terminals. Selecting flaps down should result (I think...) in 12v
at the other output terminal, but doesn't. Sounds like a bad relay, right?
The diagram on your site shows two Radio Shack relays. I don't know how (or
if) this can be directly translated to the Van's relay. The wiring of the
relay is very straightforward, done according to the drawing that comes with
it, and I'm sure I didn't screw it up. It's gotta be a bad relay...
Ken
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Did you say that it worked, and now it doesn't? Check to be sure that both
> positions have a ground via the relay. I have a diagram on my website that
> shows how this is wired.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
Hi Scott,
I've spent a couple of hours this morning doing just as you suggested and
finally concluded that my relay itself is bad. I'm waiting for Van's to call me
back to confirm the diagnosis.
I can live with having to swap out a bad relay. What would really spoil my day
is having to disassemble my Infinity grip if the switch is bad. It took me
three hours the other day to get the damn grip affixed to the stick and the wire
bundle threaded through its hole. I really don't want to do this again...
Ken
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> hi ken
> i just went through the same problem. what i did to find out where the
> problem was. get a good digital volt meter, at the flap motor connection,
> have some one work the switch while you check the voltage. it should read +
> 12 volts in one direction and -12 volts in the other direction. that shows
> that the relays are reversing polarity to the flap motor. if it is good at
> the motor connection, the motor is the problem, if it isn't good at the flap
> motor, move 1 connection closer to the relays, and check it the same way.
> work yourself all the way back to the grip until you find the problem. i was
> lucky and found a broken solder joint on one flap motor lead at the flap
> motor connection. it was only letting it go 1 way. once i resoldered the
> connection everything was good to go.
> good luck
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming front seal |
>I've been battling a leaky front seal for almost a year now. For several
>months, it's just been annoying. now I'm losing a good bit of oil out the
>front of the engine. I was convinced it was caused by excessive blowby. I
>am in the middle of a condition inspection and have found compression cold
>at 79,76,75 & 64/80. The crankcase breather was clear and unobstructed,
>5/8" heater hose. I had planned to go to 3/4" heater hose and a larger
>outlet tubing section. I did not super-glue the split on my main seal. I
>used orange RTV as I recall. Any experienced opinions on whether this is a
>leaky seal split line or a leaky seal caused by excessive case pressure.
>
>Thanks for the help in advance. sure don't want to pull the prop unless I
>just have to .
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>Pearland, Texas
>
Bryan,
Are you sure you're not losing the oil from the crankcase seam right under
the seal? This is a pretty typical place for Lycs to ooze oil. Another
possibility, from John Schwaners Skyranch Engineering manual, he mentions
that a slightly bent oil slinger on the crank can cause a pumping action
that pushes oil past the seal. I have suspected this possibility on my
engine for a while, but in no way am I willing to pull the engine apart to
check it. He says you can use a feeler gauge to check the gap between the
slinger and the crankcase with the seal removed. Pull prop forward against
the thrust bearing, check gap at one location, rotate prop 180 degrees, and
check it again. It should be the same. Haven't tried it myself. I found
that putting a cover plate over the newly installed seal, has reduced the
leakage. I still have droplets of oil on the starter, starter mount boss,
and generally around the lower nose section of the crankcase. It's not a
lot of oil, but it only takes a little bit, when it's hot, to make a mess.
Or, you could look at it like a Pitt's driver friend of mine once said, "the
only dry Lycoming is one that never runs". Maybe?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
>
>
>I'm in the process of hooking up all the little wires coming from my
>Infinity grip. Last night and this morning, everything worked like a
>charm. I was waiting for the proverbial other shoe to drop and I wasn't
>disappointed.
>
>After wiring my flap relay to the toggle switch in the grip, I applied
>the power and gave it a try. Flaps up worked fine, but flaps down
>doesn't do a thing. I did some troubleshooting and concluded that: the
>flap motor is good, the switch in the grip is good, and the wiring
>(Molex pins) is good. Can it be that I have a bad relay? Can it be
>something else? What have I missed?
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
Probably have a wiring glitch. The relay has to swap polarity to make the
motor run in reverse. Get a volt meter on the relay output, or at your flap
motor connection, and hit the grip switch in both directions. You should see
+12 volts to go one way, and -12 volts to go the other way. You may just
have a couple wires in the wrong place.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
instrumentation type dude.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Baffles and Air inlet ramps |
I trimmed mine to match the curve of the inlet ramps. No problem with
sealing. I also sealed the area behind the spinner/ring gear using
overlapping pieces of baffle material curved inwards.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT N227RV RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
I am in the process of final trimming on the baffles and wanted to see what
others have done with the interface to the fiberglass cooling ramps on the
top cowl. I have looked at photos on the web and have seen that there are
two schools of thought on this. The first being to trim the side baffles to
match the curve of the air inlet ramp. The second is to have the side
baffle and cowl seal go to the outside of the fiberglass ramp. From the
folks who are flying, what are the pros and cons of each option? Which is
easier to remove and which provides a better seal? also, what do you do
with the interface with the baffles behind the spinner/ring gear. Thanks in
advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | N-Number - Letter of Relinquishment |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Has anyone ever hear of an N-Number Letter of Relinquishment? If so, I
can I have a copy of it? I have negotiated with someone to get an
N-Number that they have reserved released so I can register it.
Oklahoma says they need to send me a Letter of Relinquishment that I
can send in with my registration...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap relay trouble |
Brian Denk wrote:
> Probably have a wiring glitch. The relay has to swap polarity to make the
> motor run in reverse. Get a volt meter on the relay output, or at your flap
> motor connection, and hit the grip switch in both directions. You should see
> +12 volts to go one way, and -12 volts to go the other way. You may just
> have a couple wires in the wrong place.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> instrumentation type dude.
Just got off the phone with Van's. They confirmed that it's a bad relay
(actually wired correctly) and are sending me another one. Onwards...!
Thanks for the assist.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Whitman" <wyvern1(at)ne.mediaone.net> |
I have completed and flown N46PH, RV6-A Serial #23516, for 560
wonderful hours. My needs now are for 4 place+, being met by a BE33
(till the 10 comes along).
I have reached the decision that I cannot sell the airplane for
liability reasons. I've studied the pros & cons for years, and peaceful
sleep is a requisite.
Does anyone know of any non-profit/charitable group who might be
interested in reciving it as a donation? A school? Aerotech training?
The intent is to have it not fly after delivery.
I talked to EAA headquarters, but is there a chapter who may want a
"Kid-climb-around" or a dissection example, or just a display piece?
Closer than 20 feet you can see some imperfections, but its a handsome
example.
I can fly it to any place in the country for dellivery. I would probably
then sell the high value "innards".
Thanks,
Tim Whitman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Setting up wings... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Fitting the wings...
The night before I was going to fit the wings, a friend and I did a test
fit of the left wing to see what things I might need to take care of
before the fitting... The only thing that came up was the gear
weldments [mine is a trike]. The bolts went through the center section
and spar just fine, but the holes in the steel weldment were off a bit,
so I borrowed some reamers to fix that problem by reaming the holes with
the wings off and then making sure all the bolts went through fine...
The next day the weather was unreal... 60 knot winds with snow and dirt
flying everywhere and we spent the day chasing stuff around the airport
and BS'ing in the hangar... Then just as Lee Lesher [RV-8] builder and
I were about to leave we decided to try and fit one of the wings... I
applied some engine oil to the center section and the spar and it slid
in very nicely... It was a good close fit, so some rocking up and down
was required, but nothing drastic... Once the wing was on, I simply
used my eye to line up one of the large bolt holes on top, oiled up a
bolt and used a rubber mallet to tap it in... Then I installed one in
the bottom the same way. After those were in, the rest went in with no
further adjustment... The right wing went on the same way. The left
took 20 minutes, the right 10... I used the bolts that came in the kit
and had no problems with installing them, and no damage to the bolts...
The next day myself and RV builder Bob Hall got to setting the wings'
sweep, angle of incidence, and squareness to the fuse and tail... First
we used a tape to measure the distance between a point on the leading
edge of the vertical stab and the point on the outer top of the wing
where the main skin and leading edge skin met to ensure both wings the
same distance. Then we dropped a plum bob from the leading edge of each
wing at the outermost ribs to the floor and made a mark. We used the
marks to snap a line, and then dropped the plum bob from each wings
leading edge at the inner most rib of the tanks to check the sweep...
Some adjustment was required until the sweep was good and the wings were
square with the fuse, we used small clamps to hold the wing in the rear
spar attach... Once we had the sweep right, we made vertical marks on
the rear spar and rear spar attach for reference later...
Setting the angle of Incidence; It was somewhat difficult for me to get
the fuse exactly level, so I went do went down to the local hardware
store and bought two new carpenters levels... I had to spend some time
to find two that read exactly the same as I wanted them to match [you
would be surprised how bad they really are]... According to the plans
for setting the angle, you put one end of the level on the front spar,
and one on a spacer 2.79" high on the rear spar, and the wing should be
level [if the plane's main longerons are level]... Since I couldn't get
my plane exactly level, I just used both level simultaneously. One on
the wing and one on the main longeron, and made adjustment until they
read exactly the same...
Then with all the adjustment done, we made another complete go around
checking to ensure all the dimensions were correct, and then I drilled
the rear spars... I started with an 1/8" drill, then went right to the
5/16" drill... This worked great and I ended up with very nice round
holes... Stuck a couple bolts in and checked everything again and ended
up with the following... Angle of incidence was perfect according to my
eye on the levels... Measurements from the vertical stab to each wing
was within a 32nd of an inch, and about a 1/8" sweep back on each wings
across each fuse to wingtip span... All in all I am very happy with the
results...
What would I do differently? - I waited until the last minute to
install the wings, so getting in the fuse to do various things was a
pin... Next time I will install and fit the wings as early as
possible...
Tip... Don't worry about the aileron control tubes... You don't need
them now, and you don't even need them for the final fitting... As long
as you don't have the wing tips on, you can slide the tubes in
anytime... Also, You can do all this with two people, but three people
would make things easier...
I forgot to bring the pictures I took with me this morning so that will
have to wait until tomorrow...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Subject: RE: RV-List: Setting up wings...
-->
Bill, I chickened out and didn't install the bolts on mine. I know the
wing attach methods are a little different between the 4 and the 8 but
would you mind telling me in detail what you did? Did you run into
anything that I should watch out for? I always put things on too early
and then have a devil of a time doing something that I should have done
BEFORE I put that part on. Run into any of those situations?
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Donation |
Tim Whitman wrote:
>
> I have reached the decision that I cannot sell the airplane for
> liability reasons. I've studied the pros & cons for years, and peaceful
> sleep is a requisite.
Have you considered selling it to someone in another country?
Roger Embree
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | N-Number Font... |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
What font is typically used for N-Numbers?
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Donation |
tim
someone donated a rv3 to the MOSI ( museum of science & industry ) building,
where it is proudly hanging from cables from the ceiling. its there for all
to see when they walk in. off coarse the good stuff has been striped out, but
you can't tell by looking at it. i don't know if there is a museum of the
same stature in your neck of the woods, but its worth a look, that is of
coarse if you don't want to give it to me. :-)
good luck
scott
tampa
ps. if you sell the airplanes as airplane parts, you have no liabilities to
worry about.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Setting up wings... |
Beauty. I'll be giving that a try this weekend then.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Setting up wings...
Fitting the wings...
The night before I was going to fit the wings, a friend and I did a test
fit of the left wing to see what things I might need to take care of
before the fitting... The only thing that came up was the gear
weldments [mine is a trike]. The bolts went through the center section
and spar just fine, but the holes in the steel weldment were off a bit,
so I borrowed some reamers to fix that problem by reaming the holes with
the wings off and then making sure all the bolts went through fine...
The next day the weather was unreal... 60 knot winds with snow and dirt
flying everywhere and we spent the day chasing stuff around the airport
and BS'ing in the hangar... Then just as Lee Lesher [RV-8] builder and
I were about to leave we decided to try and fit one of the wings... I
applied some engine oil to the center section and the spar and it slid
in very nicely... It was a good close fit, so some rocking up and down
was required, but nothing drastic... Once the wing was on, I simply
used my eye to line up one of the large bolt holes on top, oiled up a
bolt and used a rubber mallet to tap it in... Then I installed one in
the bottom the same way. After those were in, the rest went in with no
further adjustment... The right wing went on the same way. The left
took 20 minutes, the right 10... I used the bolts that came in the kit
and had no problems with installing them, and no damage to the bolts...
The next day myself and RV builder Bob Hall got to setting the wings'
sweep, angle of incidence, and squareness to the fuse and tail... First
we used a tape to measure the distance between a point on the leading
edge of the vertical stab and the point on the outer top of the wing
where the main skin and leading edge skin met to ensure both wings the
same distance. Then we dropped a plum bob from the leading edge of each
wing at the outermost ribs to the floor and made a mark. We used the
marks to snap a line, and then dropped the plum bob from each wings
leading edge at the inner most rib of the tanks to check the sweep...
Some adjustment was required until the sweep was good and the wings were
square with the fuse, we used small clamps to hold the wing in the rear
spar attach... Once we had the sweep right, we made vertical marks on
the rear spar and rear spar attach for reference later...
Setting the angle of Incidence; It was somewhat difficult for me to get
the fuse exactly level, so I went do went down to the local hardware
store and bought two new carpenters levels... I had to spend some time
to find two that read exactly the same as I wanted them to match [you
would be surprised how bad they really are]... According to the plans
for setting the angle, you put one end of the level on the front spar,
and one on a spacer 2.79" high on the rear spar, and the wing should be
level [if the plane's main longerons are level]... Since I couldn't get
my plane exactly level, I just used both level simultaneously. One on
the wing and one on the main longeron, and made adjustment until they
read exactly the same...
Then with all the adjustment done, we made another complete go around
checking to ensure all the dimensions were correct, and then I drilled
the rear spars... I started with an 1/8" drill, then went right to the
5/16" drill... This worked great and I ended up with very nice round
holes... Stuck a couple bolts in and checked everything again and ended
up with the following... Angle of incidence was perfect according to my
eye on the levels... Measurements from the vertical stab to each wing
was within a 32nd of an inch, and about a 1/8" sweep back on each wings
across each fuse to wingtip span... All in all I am very happy with the
results...
What would I do differently? - I waited until the last minute to
install the wings, so getting in the fuse to do various things was a
pin... Next time I will install and fit the wings as early as
possible...
Tip... Don't worry about the aileron control tubes... You don't need
them now, and you don't even need them for the final fitting... As long
as you don't have the wing tips on, you can slide the tubes in
anytime... Also, You can do all this with two people, but three people
would make things easier...
I forgot to bring the pictures I took with me this morning so that will
have to wait until tomorrow...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Subject: RE: RV-List: Setting up wings...
-->
Bill, I chickened out and didn't install the bolts on mine. I know the
wing attach methods are a little different between the 4 and the 8 but
would you mind telling me in detail what you did? Did you run into
anything that I should watch out for? I always put things on too early
and then have a devil of a time doing something that I should have done
BEFORE I put that part on. Run into any of those situations?
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Font... |
if under 180 knots
3" roman capital letter N, all at the end the same roman capital numerals.
if over 180 knots, same font just 12" in height .
scott
tampa
right out of AFS-600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Font... |
In a message dated 02/11/2002 1:32:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> What font is typically used for N-Numbers?
>
> -Bill VonDane
>
Bill: Definitely, this application calls for the font known as "WingDings."
Sorry, couldn't resist, and just had to be the first one to say it!
Bill B ~ N30YD
displaying 3" vinyl stick on "Boat Numbers" from the local hardware store. I
would guess the font is called something like "1950's Cottage Craftsman" or
"Frank Lloyd Wright Unical Bold"...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Font... |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
FAR 45.29 describes N-number font requirements.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> What font is typically used for N-Numbers?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin |
I am in the process of attaching the forward fuselage skin on my RV6 QB
and have noticed what appears to be a problem with the F-6108 center rib
which is preinstalled in the QB kit. The top flange's on the three
fuselage ribs (F-6107R, F-6108 and F-6107L) are basically level at the
firewall but the F-6108 slopes slightly lower all the way back to the
instrument panel where it is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch lower that
the F-6107's located on either side of it. This looks like a problem to
me in that the drawings depict a curvature of the forward fuselage skin
from the center (F-6108) to the outside edge (fuselage longerons) and
riveting the skin down to the F-6108 will pull the skin down and cause a
dip.
Because of how large the gap is, adding a shim or spacer does not seem
to be and option. I am considering cutting off the flange of the F-6108
rib and riveting on an .032 angle to raise the flange of the F-6108 rib
to be slightly higher than the F-6107's. Has anyone else building a 6QB
had this problem or I am just missing something in the grand scheme of
things?
Thanks in advance, any comments would be appreciated
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Free Wheel Pants |
Wheel Pants Free to good Home
I have 2 pairs of brand new (no work done on them) old style wheel pants for
RV-6. I will send to anyone for the cost of shipping. Please email me off
the list.
Patty Gillies
RV-6
Columbia, SC
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | N-Number Font... |
Contrary to popular belief, you can use any number of fonts for your N
number. There are some specifics in the FAR's as mentioned in a previous
note (height to width regulations, etc).
I just bought the stencils for mine today (stencils since the N number will
be painted on)... The font I chose is a long way from the classic "Roman"
font. I'm using "Balloon Left Slant".
You can see this font at:
http://www.123signs.com/AIRCRAFT.html
Note that these guys (and others listed in Trade a Plane have lots of
fonts.... all pre-made).
Jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Font... |
Virtually any sign shop can cut you vinyl "graphics" (which includes
N-numbers) . . . virtually any color . . . virtually any size . . .
shadowing effects, 3D effects, etc. etc. Of course, they can do the
"EXPERIMENTAL" lettering as well. If you have them give this to you on a
"transfer sheet", the spacing is perfect and you can place these where you
choose.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: N-Number Font...
>
> Contrary to popular belief, you can use any number of fonts for your N
> number. There are some specifics in the FAR's as mentioned in a previous
> note (height to width regulations, etc).
>
> I just bought the stencils for mine today (stencils since the N number
will
> be painted on)... The font I chose is a long way from the classic "Roman"
> font. I'm using "Balloon Left Slant".
>
> You can see this font at:
> http://www.123signs.com/AIRCRAFT.html
>
> Note that these guys (and others listed in Trade a Plane have lots of
> fonts.... all pre-made).
>
> Jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin |
The center rib on my QB is almost 3/16" higher than the two outside ribs
anywhere you put a straight edge on it; firewall, subpanel or panel.
Doesn't sound right, what you're describing. I wouldn't put it past the
quickbuilders to do something like that though. I've found a few
weirdnesses in mine.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
I am in the process of attaching the forward fuselage skin on my RV6 QB
and have noticed what appears to be a problem with the F-6108 center rib
which is preinstalled in the QB kit. The top flange's on the three
fuselage ribs (F-6107R, F-6108 and F-6107L) are basically level at the
firewall but the F-6108 slopes slightly lower all the way back to the
instrument panel where it is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch lower that
the F-6107's located on either side of it. This looks like a problem to
me in that the drawings depict a curvature of the forward fuselage skin
from the center (F-6108) to the outside edge (fuselage longerons) and
riveting the skin down to the F-6108 will pull the skin down and cause a
dip.
Because of how large the gap is, adding a shim or spacer does not seem
to be and option. I am considering cutting off the flange of the F-6108
rib and riveting on an .032 angle to raise the flange of the F-6108 rib
to be slightly higher than the F-6107's. Has anyone else building a 6QB
had this problem or I am just missing something in the grand scheme of
things?
Thanks in advance, any comments would be appreciated
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | N-Number Font... |
Rick... exactly my point... This company is "123 Sign, Inc"... Nothing
special about them... any sign company can do it.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rickjory
Subject: Re: RV-List: N-Number Font...
Virtually any sign shop can cut you vinyl "graphics" (which includes
N-numbers) . . . virtually any color . . . virtually any size . . .
shadowing effects, 3D effects, etc. etc. Of course, they can do the
"EXPERIMENTAL" lettering as well. If you have them give this to you on a
"transfer sheet", the spacing is perfect and you can place these where you
choose.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: N-Number Font...
>
> Contrary to popular belief, you can use any number of fonts for your N
> number. There are some specifics in the FAR's as mentioned in a previous
> note (height to width regulations, etc).
>
> I just bought the stencils for mine today (stencils since the N number
will
> be painted on)... The font I chose is a long way from the classic "Roman"
> font. I'm using "Balloon Left Slant".
>
> You can see this font at:
> http://www.123signs.com/AIRCRAFT.html
>
> Note that these guys (and others listed in Trade a Plane have lots of
> fonts.... all pre-made).
>
> Jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Happy N-Number Story... |
I have been thinking about and reserving different N-Numbers for a
couple years, but was never really happy with what I had found
available... About a month ago I got back on my N-Number kick and
started looking at what was available again... I currently had N8VD
reserved; 8 for my RV-8 and VD for my last name VonDane... It was ok,
but I did get some ribbing from some [you know who you are]...
So.....during my latest search I found a couple that I thought I would
really like;
N8V - It's reserved, and I could not find the party who reserved it no
matter what I did...
N8WV [for my initials; William VonDane] - It's reserved, and has been
reserved since 1973, by the West Virginia DOT Aeronautics Commission...
So I went to work calling the State of Virginia DOT... After about 3
days and a dozen or so phone calls, I got hold of the Director of the
West Virginia Aeronautics Commission and explained to her about my plane
and the how I wanted to use the N-Number. She was very nice to me on
the phone but said she was on her way to some meeting and would have to
get back to me... The next day she called me for more details and I
explained everything to her... This was on Friday, the 1st of Feb...
Now I didn't expect anything to happen really... I thought they would
tell me they would keep it in case they ever bought a plane or
something, or maybe they would sell it to me.....but this morning she
called to tell me they were going to relinquish the number to me... How
cool is that!?
I called the Aircraft Registration Office in Oklahoma to get the
information required get this all done. They told me that I needed a
Letter of Relinquishment written on company letterhead stating that they
would "relinquish the N-Number N8WV to William E. VonDane" signed by an
authoritative party... I sent this info back to the WV-DOT and within
30 min I had a faxed copy of the letter...
Now I just have to include this letter with my N-Number registration
request to the Aircraft Registration Office...
All my life people have been tell me to be nice, and not be such a
jerk... Hey... It worked!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lycoming front seal |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
>
Make sure there aren't any nicks in the flange.
Place a baggie over the flange
Remove spring
grease and stretch the seal over the flange. Lip seal points to the
engine.
Replace spring.
coat outside of seal with a gasket sealer and press into the recess.
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
Thanks Cy:
Will the spring expand over the flange? or should I disassemble & re-hook
it after it is on the shaft?
Can I use tools to get it to go over the flange?
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J D Newsum <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin |
Thanks Ed.
Higher would seem to make more sense to me. (I forgot to add in my original
post that my 6QB is a slider.) I called Van's tech support and described my
problem to Tom Green. Tom suggested that it should be possible to to drill
out the rivet that attaches the F-6108 to the F-6105 subpanel, lift the
instrument panel end of the F-6108 to bring it up to at least same height as
the F-6107's and reattach the F-6108 at the new height at the subpanel
(F-6105) with a piece of angle. My only reservation with this suggestion is
that lifting the instrument panel end of the F-6108 will act like a lever
bending the firewall forward where the F-6108 attaches to it, but the
firewall is canted forward at the top anyway so maybe a tad more won't make
any difference. Tom's other comment was that if 6107's and the 6108 were
the same height, the skin would be flat across the top of the forward
fuselage but this would be acceptable.
Dave
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> The center rib on my QB is almost 3/16" higher than the two outside ribs
> anywhere you put a straight edge on it; firewall, subpanel or panel.
> Doesn't sound right, what you're describing. I wouldn't put it past the
> quickbuilders to do something like that though. I've found a few
> weirdnesses in mine.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
>
>
> I am in the process of attaching the forward fuselage skin on my RV6 QB
> and have noticed what appears to be a problem with the F-6108 center rib
> which is preinstalled in the QB kit. The top flange's on the three
> fuselage ribs (F-6107R, F-6108 and F-6107L) are basically level at the
> firewall but the F-6108 slopes slightly lower all the way back to the
> instrument panel where it is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch lower that
> the F-6107's located on either side of it. This looks like a problem to
> me in that the drawings depict a curvature of the forward fuselage skin
> from the center (F-6108) to the outside edge (fuselage longerons) and
> riveting the skin down to the F-6108 will pull the skin down and cause a
> dip.
>
> Because of how large the gap is, adding a shim or spacer does not seem
> to be and option. I am considering cutting off the flange of the F-6108
> rib and riveting on an .032 angle to raise the flange of the F-6108 rib
> to be slightly higher than the F-6107's. Has anyone else building a 6QB
> had this problem or I am just missing something in the grand scheme of
> things?
>
> Thanks in advance, any comments would be appreciated
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze2(at)comcast.net |
I am working on some vents for my RV-7A. Instead of using the plastic NACA vent
from Van's, this will be a NACA cut out opening in the same place with a door
behind it that is hinged at the front of the NACA outline. It will close flush
with the skin to stop air and insects from infiltrating. I will use a cable
from inside the cockpit to actuate the door. It will have a fiberglass cover
on the inside of it with a round fitting for the standard 2" hose attachment.
I figure I could put this into kit form for less than Van's kit but without the
cable. Is there any interest is something like this? Drop me a line at rpflanze2(at)comcast.net
with any pros or cons. I intend to do this regardless, I'm
just trying to gauge any interest before investing in putting together as a kit.
Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer
RV-6 (sold)
RV-7A (wings arrive this week)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Happy N-Number Story... |
>>... I currently had N8VD
reserved; 8 for my RV-8 and VD for my last name VonDane... It was ok,
but I did get some ribbing from some [you know who you are]...<<
Wasn't me but...... There are those that consider wearing your airplane a good
thing. To that end, maybe "BVD" would have been good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-Number - Letter of Relinquishment |
Bill,
There is no formal form. The letter is simply a letter from the 'N' number
holder stating that he is relinquishing the number. The letter should be
notarized to keep from having any problems. If the 'N' number is on an
existing airplane then he also needs to turn in the airworthiness
certificate.
Drop me a line if you have any questions.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Rv-List , vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com,
>"Rv8list@Egroups"
>Subject: RV-List: N-Number - Letter of Relinquishment
>Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:14:22 -0700
>
>
>Has anyone ever hear of an N-Number Letter of Relinquishment? If so, I
>can I have a copy of it? I have negotiated with someone to get an
>N-Number that they have reserved released so I can register it.
>Oklahoma says they need to send me a Letter of Relinquishment that I
>can send in with my registration...
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
MBOX-Line: From sentto-3737989-1061-1013450091-cgarts1=mail.com(at)returns.groups.yahoo.com
Mon Feb 11 17:54:54 2002
by csomail.cso.atmel.com (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.1 (built May 7 2001))
"Rv8list@Egroups"
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
List-Unsubscribe:
| Subject: | Setting up wings... |
Fitting the wings...
The night before I was going to fit the wings, a friend and I did a test
fit of the left wing to see what things I might need to take care of
before the fitting... The only thing that came up was the gear
weldments [mine is a trike]. The bolts went through the center section
and spar just fine, but the holes in the steel weldment were off a bit,
so I borrowed some reamers to fix that problem by reaming the holes with
the wings off and then making sure all the bolts went through fine...
The next day the weather was unreal... 60 knot winds with snow and dirt
flying everywhere and we spent the day chasing stuff around the airport
and BS'ing in the hangar... Then just as Lee Lesher [RV-8] builder and
I were about to leave we decided to try and fit one of the wings... I
applied some engine oil to the center section and the spar and it slid
in very nicely... It was a good close fit, so some rocking up and down
was required, but nothing drastic... Once the wing was on, I simply
used my eye to line up one of the large bolt holes on top, oiled up a
bolt and used a rubber mallet to tap it in... Then I installed one in
the bottom the same way. After those were in, the rest went in with no
further adjustment... The right wing went on the same way. The left
took 20 minutes, the right 10... I used the bolts that came in the kit
and had no problems with installing them, and no damage to the bolts...
The next day myself and RV builder Bob Hall got to setting the wings'
sweep, angle of incidence, and squareness to the fuse and tail... First
we used a tape to measure the distance between a point on the leading
edge of the vertical stab and the point on the outer top of the wing
where the main skin and leading edge skin met to ensure both wings the
same distance. Then we dropped a plum bob from the leading edge of each
wing at the outermost ribs to the floor and made a mark. We used the
marks to snap a line, and then dropped the plum bob from each wings
leading edge at the inner most rib of the tanks to check the sweep...
Some adjustment was required until the sweep was good and the wings were
square with the fuse, we used small clamps to hold the wing in the rear
spar attach... Once we had the sweep right, we made vertical marks on
the rear spar and rear spar attach for reference later...
Setting the angle of Incidence; It was somewhat difficult for me to get
the fuse exactly level, so I went do went down to the local hardware
store and bought two new carpenters levels... I had to spend some time
to find two that read exactly the same as I wanted them to match [you
would be surprised how bad they really are]... According to the plans
for setting the angle, you put one end of the level on the front spar,
and one on a spacer 2.79" high on the rear spar, and the wing should be
level [if the plane's main longerons are level]... Since I couldn't get
my plane exactly level, I just used both level simultaneously. One on
the wing and one on the main longeron, and made adjustment until they
read exactly the same...
Then with all the adjustment done, we made another complete go around
checking to ensure all the dimensions were correct, and then I drilled
the rear spars... I started with an 1/8" drill, then went right to the
5/16" drill... This worked great and I ended up with very nice round
holes... Stuck a couple bolts in and checked everything again and ended
up with the following... Angle of incidence was perfect according to my
eye on the levels... Measurements from the vertical stab to each wing
was within a 32nd of an inch, and about a 1/8" sweep back on each wings
across each fuse to wingtip span... All in all I am very happy with the
results...
What would I do differently? - I waited until the last minute to
install the wings, so getting in the fuse to do various things was a
pin... Next time I will install and fit the wings as early as
possible...
Tip... Don't worry about the aileron control tubes... You don't need
them now, and you don't even need them for the final fitting... As long
as you don't have the wing tips on, you can slide the tubes in
anytime... Also, You can do all this with two people, but three people
would make things easier...
I forgot to bring the pictures I took with me this morning so that will
have to wait until tomorrow...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Subject: RE: RV-List: Setting up wings...
-->
Bill, I chickened out and didn't install the bolts on mine. I know the
wing attach methods are a little different between the 4 and the 8 but
would you mind telling me in detail what you did? Did you run into
anything that I should watch out for? I always put things on too early
and then have a devil of a time doing something that I should have done
BEFORE I put that part on. Run into any of those situations?
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: paint in spar bolt holes |
dear listers,
a fellow builder and buddy of mine, pointed out that i had gotten paint in
the close tolerance bolt holes on the wing spar. i purposely painted the spar
for corrosion protection and apperance. i had completely forgotten about the
close tolerance bolts, and needless to say, it has been primed, and painted
well. how will i ever get the paint out now that it is cured. can i ream it
with a reamer of the same size as the bolts? is there a chemical that will
remove the paint, but not hurt the metal in the spar? should i put my drill
in hammer mode and ram screw them in? what do you guys think?
scott
tampa
thanks jim, now i can't sleep at night
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Betty" <jbanglin(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: paint in spar bolt holes |
They can be reamed with no problem - I had the same problem. I had Wayne
from Phlogiston do mine because your really have to know how to do this. He
used a real slow running drill motor and same-size reamers and was SUPER
careful to start it straight in each hole. If you use chemicals they will
get in between the flange strips and web and ruin your beeyootiful prime
job.
Jim
sold '91 RV-6
flying RV-4
building HR-II
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: paint in spar bolt holes
>
> dear listers,
> a fellow builder and buddy of mine, pointed out that i had gotten paint in
> the close tolerance bolt holes on the wing spar. i purposely painted the
spar
> for corrosion protection and apperance. i had completely forgotten about
the
> close tolerance bolts, and needless to say, it has been primed, and
painted
> well. how will i ever get the paint out now that it is cured. can i ream
it
> with a reamer of the same size as the bolts? is there a chemical that will
> remove the paint, but not hurt the metal in the spar? should i put my
drill
> in hammer mode and ram screw them in? what do you guys think?
> scott
> tampa
> thanks jim, now i can't sleep at night
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Painted, FINALLY!!! |
I finally got my RV-8A painted. I'm very happy with the results, and I
would recommend my painter at Midamerica Jet in Owensboro, KY. I've
posted lots of pictures at http://rv8asite.homestead.com/painting.html.
Email me off-list if you have any questions.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
83 hrs and flying again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming front seal |
Third line says to REMOVE SPRING.
Some heat the seal in hot water to make it more pliable.
There is a tool that has a grove cut into it to make it easier to force the
seal over the flange but many have been done with a couple of clean round
smooth screwdrivers. Look in the various aviation tool catalogs.
Spring is re-hooked after the seal is over the flange before the seal is
pushed back into the case recess.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: lycoming front seal
>
Make sure there aren't any nicks in the flange.
Place a baggie over the flange
Remove spring
grease and stretch the seal over the flange. Lip seal points to the
engine.
Replace spring.
coat outside of seal with a gasket sealer and press into the recess.
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
Thanks Cy:
Will the spring expand over the flange? or should I disassemble & re-hook
it after it is on the shaft?
Can I use tools to get it to go over the flange?
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint in spar bolt holes |
I had a touch of paint in my close tolerance bolt holes as well. (I guess
the motivation is there to make sure that spar bar material is "really"
primed).
I used a gun smith's barrel cleaning brush of suitable size to scrub out the
excess primer. At least that's what I think it was, it was sort of a wire
bottle cleaner with brass bristles in a spiral pattern - perhaps it was a
cheap knock off. I found it at a local hardware store for a dollar or two.
The brass bristles seemed to have no significant effect on the aluminum, it
took some scrubbing to take away the primer first.
I also used some scothbrite on the bolts themselves to put a shine on them
and did a trail fit of bolts into the spars (and splice plates) before
actually putting the wings on the fuselage to identify any problem bolts and
sort things out. Same for the ordinary AN3 bolts as well. It is a lot easier
to do this beforehand than when crouched over in the suddenly quite small
cockpit trying to get a stubborn bolt in or out.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <>
Subject: RV-List: Re: paint in spar bolt holes
>
> dear listers,
> a fellow builder and buddy of mine, pointed out that i had gotten paint in
> the close tolerance bolt holes on the wing spar. i purposely painted the
spar
> for corrosion protection and apperance. i had completely forgotten about
the
> close tolerance bolts, and needless to say, it has been primed, and
painted
> well. how will i ever get the paint out now that it is cured. can i ream
it
> with a reamer of the same size as the bolts? is there a chemical that will
> remove the paint, but not hurt the metal in the spar? should i put my
drill
> in hammer mode and ram screw them in? what do you guys think?
> scott
> tampa
> thanks jim, now i can't sleep at night
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matts RV-4 Project For Sale... |
> Are we a family here or not. I think its time for an intervention.
> Jerry, Randall, you guys hold Matts legs while I sedate him,
> don't let him kick me. I'll try not to spill too much beer on his
> shirt while I pour it in him.
Yes we are a family -- Matt, what are you thinking! Okay I know what you're
thinking: "Why should I settle for a stupid old -4 when I can have something
*almost* as good as -6!" :-) :-) :-)
But seriously (okay maybe not all that seriously) I would give my left
VA-106 for a chance to fly a -4 for a while. In fact I am hoping to get Rob
Hickman to make good on his promise to let me fly his from the front seat
one of these days. Just think -- you could finish and fly that thing for a
while, sell it, and THEN build one of those snap-together jobbies! How cool
would that be? I mean, you could join the "repeat offenders" group at OSH
and have me beat (I'd just have to slink on over to the "previous award
winner's" circle... :-)
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
| Subject: | RE: Ignition Wire Pass Throughs |
A few people have told me that they were having trouble finding the wire
seals from spruce... here are the details... I got the #375 two-wire
seals...
375 5MM WIRE SEAL TWO-WIRE # 375 $3.950
376 5MM WIRE SEAL 3-WIRE # 376 $3.950
526 5MM WIRE SEAL ONE-WIRE # 526 $3.500
M2376 THREE WIRE, 5MM WIRE SEAL $9.400
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - <http://vondane.com/rv8a/> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matts RV-4 Project For Sale... |
all I can say is dont do it!!!i bought a rv8 from my cousin and for the last
3 years i have told him not to sell it.well now he calls every weekend to see
how it going,i might own it but it is still his baby!!now if i only had time
to work on it myself besides all the other planes i am working on it could be
flying soon =(if in the imperial county region of so cal look me up,i like to
bs=)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting over SW 988 Primer |
When I built my wings I used SW 988 primer for the inside of the wing and the
skin lap joints. I am thinking of using a Dupont base coat/clear coat system
when I paint the plane. Does anyone know if I will have any problems using
this system over the SW 988? I am concerned about the primer that is showing
at the skin lap joints.
Also thinking of using Air Dry Acrylic Enamel from Cardinal Industrial
Finishes to shoot the cockpit to match the powder coated parts. Can I also
use the SW 988 as a primer for this paint?
Thanks,
Jim in Omaha
Fuselage in Jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:02:42 AM
All the QB's I have looked at lately have had this malady. I don't really
see how they can keep doing this, its the most obvious thing that all
flanges that join together on one skin need to be mated flush. I will help
a local QB builder fix this soon. The best way I can see to do it is to
just drill out the ribs and drill in new replacements. His flanges are also
3/16ths off. That could make for a mighty big pucker. Thats not acceptable
in my book.
Eric
J D Newsum (at)matronics.com on 02/11/2002 06:47:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
Thanks Ed.
Higher would seem to make more sense to me. (I forgot to add in my original
post that my 6QB is a slider.) I called Van's tech support and described
my
problem to Tom Green. Tom suggested that it should be possible to to drill
out the rivet that attaches the F-6108 to the F-6105 subpanel, lift the
instrument panel end of the F-6108 to bring it up to at least same height
as
the F-6107's and reattach the F-6108 at the new height at the subpanel
(F-6105) with a piece of angle. My only reservation with this suggestion
is
that lifting the instrument panel end of the F-6108 will act like a lever
bending the firewall forward where the F-6108 attaches to it, but the
firewall is canted forward at the top anyway so maybe a tad more won't make
any difference. Tom's other comment was that if 6107's and the 6108 were
the same height, the skin would be flat across the top of the forward
fuselage but this would be acceptable.
Dave
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> The center rib on my QB is almost 3/16" higher than the two outside ribs
> anywhere you put a straight edge on it; firewall, subpanel or panel.
> Doesn't sound right, what you're describing. I wouldn't put it past the
> quickbuilders to do something like that though. I've found a few
> weirdnesses in mine.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
>
>
> I am in the process of attaching the forward fuselage skin on my RV6 QB
> and have noticed what appears to be a problem with the F-6108 center rib
> which is preinstalled in the QB kit. The top flange's on the three
> fuselage ribs (F-6107R, F-6108 and F-6107L) are basically level at the
> firewall but the F-6108 slopes slightly lower all the way back to the
> instrument panel where it is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch lower that
> the F-6107's located on either side of it. This looks like a problem to
> me in that the drawings depict a curvature of the forward fuselage skin
> from the center (F-6108) to the outside edge (fuselage longerons) and
> riveting the skin down to the F-6108 will pull the skin down and cause a
> dip.
>
> Because of how large the gap is, adding a shim or spacer does not seem
> to be and option. I am considering cutting off the flange of the F-6108
> rib and riveting on an .032 angle to raise the flange of the F-6108 rib
> to be slightly higher than the F-6107's. Has anyone else building a 6QB
> had this problem or I am just missing something in the grand scheme of
> things?
>
> Thanks in advance, any comments would be appreciated
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Grand Rapids MAP |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
For you listers that have Grand Rapids EIS units, how did you plumb for
manifold pressure? The sensor, mounted aft of the firewall, calls for a
7/64"-3/16" ID tube, but I need to transition from the port at #3 cylinder
and am not quite sure what fittings to use.
I'm thinking about running #4 hose to Van's transducer manifold, then
running the tube from there through the firewall to the sensor. But I can't
find a fitting that goes from 1/8 npt to the called for tube. Suggestions?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, 0-360, CS prop
Fayetteville NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Painting over SW 988 Primer |
Jim...
I used the Air Dry Acrylic Enamel from Cardinal to do my interior and
where I put paint, I did not put primer... I used a green scotch brite
to scuff up the material, then cleaned it real good with some Grow
Automotive cleaner, then shot the enamel... Try some test pieces, the
color looked better without the primer IMHO...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nebrrv8(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Painting over SW 988 Primer
When I built my wings I used SW 988 primer for the inside of the wing
and the
skin lap joints. I am thinking of using a Dupont base coat/clear coat
system
when I paint the plane. Does anyone know if I will have any problems
using
this system over the SW 988? I am concerned about the primer that is
showing
at the skin lap joints.
Also thinking of using Air Dry Acrylic Enamel from Cardinal Industrial
Finishes to shoot the cockpit to match the powder coated parts. Can I
also
use the SW 988 as a primer for this paint?
Thanks,
Jim in Omaha
Fuselage in Jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Grand Rapids MAP |
Robert...
Here's what I did... I got a piece of a primer system from the junk
pile to use for the engine side. It had a long piece of tubing still
attached that was just about the same size as the EIS MAP nipple, so I
went and got a piece of vacuum line from the auto parts store... I have
the MAP transducer mounted on the aft side of the F866 bulkhead [I
modified the case a bit for that] and run the vacuum through it and the
firewall through rubber grommets... I then slides onto the primer
tubing and is currently secured with a couple zip ties...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/engine1.htm
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles2.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Dickson
Subject: RV-List: Grand Rapids MAP
For you listers that have Grand Rapids EIS units, how did you plumb for
manifold pressure? The sensor, mounted aft of the firewall, calls for a
7/64"-3/16" ID tube, but I need to transition from the port at #3
cylinder and am not quite sure what fittings to use. I'm thinking about
running #4 hose to Van's transducer manifold, then running the tube from
there through the firewall to the sensor. But I can't find a fitting
that goes from 1/8 npt to the called for tube. Suggestions?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, 0-360, CS prop
Fayetteville NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Larry,
I think these are the same pop rivets that are used on the baffling to hold
the seal material to the aluminum.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, final assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static ports?
I swear I remember seeing them during the fuse (or wing?) inventory
though. Two abnormally large pop rivets, that I decided at the time,
were for the static ports. Then I guess I set them aside so I wouldn't
loose them.... :(
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> larry
> the pitot static kit , had all the necessary parts. you have
> to order it
> seperatly, if i remember correctly.
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Lamar low-voltage monitor |
I'm about to wire up the above monitor in the -6. It didn't come with any wiring
instructions. The three wires, red, black and green, I guess are power, ground
and warning light, respectively.
Anyone have any experience with these?
Scott in Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin |
I drilled out the rivet that tied the F-6108 to the F-6105 sub panel bulkhead
per Tom's suggestion and the F-6108 literally sprang up to what would appear to
be the correct position. All three ribs are at the same height at the F-6105
subpanel and the F-6108 is slightly higher that the F-6107's at the instrument
panel. Now all that I need to do is figure out the best method to re-rivet it
all back together while not pulling the F-6108 down in the process. Thanks
guys for your feedback and comments.
Dave
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> All the QB's I have looked at lately have had this malady. I don't really
> see how they can keep doing this, its the most obvious thing that all
> flanges that join together on one skin need to be mated flush. I will help
> a local QB builder fix this soon. The best way I can see to do it is to
> just drill out the ribs and drill in new replacements. His flanges are also
> 3/16ths off. That could make for a mighty big pucker. Thats not acceptable
> in my book.
>
> Eric
>
> J D Newsum (at)matronics.com on 02/11/2002 06:47:59 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
>
>
> Thanks Ed.
>
> Higher would seem to make more sense to me. (I forgot to add in my original
> post that my 6QB is a slider.) I called Van's tech support and described
> my
> problem to Tom Green. Tom suggested that it should be possible to to drill
> out the rivet that attaches the F-6108 to the F-6105 subpanel, lift the
> instrument panel end of the F-6108 to bring it up to at least same height
> as
> the F-6107's and reattach the F-6108 at the new height at the subpanel
> (F-6105) with a piece of angle. My only reservation with this suggestion
> is
> that lifting the instrument panel end of the F-6108 will act like a lever
> bending the firewall forward where the F-6108 attaches to it, but the
> firewall is canted forward at the top anyway so maybe a tad more won't make
> any difference. Tom's other comment was that if 6107's and the 6108 were
> the same height, the skin would be flat across the top of the forward
> fuselage but this would be acceptable.
>
> Dave
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> >
> > The center rib on my QB is almost 3/16" higher than the two outside ribs
> > anywhere you put a straight edge on it; firewall, subpanel or panel.
> > Doesn't sound right, what you're describing. I wouldn't put it past the
> > quickbuilders to do something like that though. I've found a few
> > weirdnesses in mine.
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB Forward Fuselage Skin
> >
> >
> > I am in the process of attaching the forward fuselage skin on my RV6 QB
> > and have noticed what appears to be a problem with the F-6108 center rib
> > which is preinstalled in the QB kit. The top flange's on the three
> > fuselage ribs (F-6107R, F-6108 and F-6107L) are basically level at the
> > firewall but the F-6108 slopes slightly lower all the way back to the
> > instrument panel where it is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch lower that
> > the F-6107's located on either side of it. This looks like a problem to
> > me in that the drawings depict a curvature of the forward fuselage skin
> > from the center (F-6108) to the outside edge (fuselage longerons) and
> > riveting the skin down to the F-6108 will pull the skin down and cause a
> > dip.
> >
> > Because of how large the gap is, adding a shim or spacer does not seem
> > to be and option. I am considering cutting off the flange of the F-6108
> > rib and riveting on an .032 angle to raise the flange of the F-6108 rib
> > to be slightly higher than the F-6107's. Has anyone else building a 6QB
> > had this problem or I am just missing something in the grand scheme of
> > things?
> >
> > Thanks in advance, any comments would be appreciated
> > Dave
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flush screws for mounting elevator trim servo |
Terry,
I dimpled both the access cover, elevator skin, and the E-615PP. I made
small spacers out of .063" stock, which I inserted between the E-615PP and
the plate nuts. I countersunk the holes in these spacers. I did this as I
could not find any vendor to supply MS-21049-06K (triple dimpled) plate nuts.
You could use MS21049 plate nuts and use NAS 1097 (cheater) rivets to hold
the plate nuts to the skin and doubler. This would allow you to countersink
through the skin and doubler (E-615PP)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> When mounting the trim servo do you dimple the cover plate(.020) and
>countersink the e-615 support plate (.032) to accept the cover plate?
>I will be using AN507-6r8 screws. Also there is no call out for rivet size
>or quantity for the trim servo (Z) brackets. I assume it would be 426-3-3
>or 3.5.
>How many rivets are to be used when mount the control horn on the spar
>side, 6 or 8?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids MAP |
> For you listers that have Grand Rapids EIS units, how did you plumb
> for manifold pressure?
At engine, I started with AN4022-1, attached to 1/8 copper tube via
AN805-2 (using silver solder) and AN800-2. At firewall I used AN832-
2D bulkhead fitting with AN924-2D nut. On both sides of the
bulkhead fitting, AN818-2D and AN819-2D to attach the copper
tubing. I only used a short length of copper tubing inside the cockpit.
To the copper tubing, I attached 1/8" (ID) hose, part number "PT 1/8
CLR" from Van's. That runs to the EIS MAP sensor, where it attaches
to the sensor nipple.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... |
I also went to the site and found that their "application assistance"
feature recommended Loctite Resinol RTC. It is designed for sealing
microscopic voids and is typically applied with vacuum impregnation. It is
fully compatible with all grades of gasoline up to %15 ethanol blend (like
anybody wants that ***t in his tanks anyways).
http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_Resinol_RTC.pdf
Loctite 290 is also compatible with gasoline and if applying a vacuum to
your tanks isn't practical then it is probably the best choice.
ps. The Loctite website is one of the best product information websites that
I have ever seen. Other companies would do well to provide such an easy,
informative site.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9 (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert McCallum
> Sent: February 10, 2002 8:45 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky...
>
>
>
>
> The proper grade of Loctite for this application is #290 which is
> designated by Loctite as "wicking"
> grade for sealing of pre assembled fasteners or sealing of
> porosity in welds, tanks etc. #290
> Loctite is green in colour and is very thin as it comes from the
> bottle so as to be drawn into fine
> spaces by capillary action. The product data sheet can be found at:
> http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_290.pdf
> Hope this is helpful
> Bob McC
>
> John B Seal wrote:
>
> >
> > I had a small leak in a rivet on my RV-6 that I cured as follows:
> >
> >
> > Apply a small amount of "Locktite" thread locking liquid to
> the leak and
> > let it get sucked in and allowed to set up and seal off the hole.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Boyd Seal
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RMI MAP Sensor Question.. |
For those using the RMI Micro Encoder I have a quick question...I hope!!!
Were you ever able to find a fitting for the 3 prong manifold pressure
sensor? The folks at RMI don't make/have a fitting, and said that one off
some type of old pickup seemed to work, but they couldn't remember which one.
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
RV6AQB/Finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdnewsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Grand Rapids MAP |
Is there some reason the Grand Rapids EIS map sensor can't be mounted on the
engine side of the firewall? Seems like it would be easier to run wiring
through the firewall rather than plumbing.
Another EIS question. Can the EIS monitor/display alternator load current?
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Grand Rapids MAP
> For you listers that have Grand Rapids EIS units, how did you plumb
> for manifold pressure?
At engine, I started with AN4022-1, attached to 1/8 copper tube via
AN805-2 (using silver solder) and AN800-2. At firewall I used AN832-
2D bulkhead fitting with AN924-2D nut. On both sides of the
bulkhead fitting, AN818-2D and AN819-2D to attach the copper
tubing. I only used a short length of copper tubing inside the cockpit.
To the copper tubing, I attached 1/8" (ID) hose, part number "PT 1/8
CLR" from Van's. That runs to the EIS MAP sensor, where it attaches
to the sensor nipple.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids MAP |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
the instructions say sensor should not be mounted in engine compartment -
"avoid water, fuel and extreme heat."
Robert Dickson
RV-6A
----------
>From: "jdnewsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Grand Rapids MAP
>Date: Tue, Feb 12, 2002, 9:49 PM
>
>
> Is there some reason the Grand Rapids EIS map sensor can't be mounted on the
> engine side of the firewall? Seems like it would be easier to run wiring
> through the firewall rather than plumbing.
>
> Another EIS question. Can the EIS monitor/display alternator load current?
>
> Dave
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
> To: Robert Dickson; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Grand Rapids MAP
>
>
>> For you listers that have Grand Rapids EIS units, how did you plumb
>> for manifold pressure?
>
> At engine, I started with AN4022-1, attached to 1/8 copper tube via
> AN805-2 (using silver solder) and AN800-2. At firewall I used AN832-
> 2D bulkhead fitting with AN924-2D nut. On both sides of the
> bulkhead fitting, AN818-2D and AN819-2D to attach the copper
> tubing. I only used a short length of copper tubing inside the cockpit.
> To the copper tubing, I attached 1/8" (ID) hose, part number "PT 1/8
> CLR" from Van's. That runs to the EIS MAP sensor, where it attaches
> to the sensor nipple.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | monitoring alternator load with EIS |
Dave wrote: Can the EIS monitor/display alternator load current?
Dave,
I talked to Greg at Grand Rapids about this at Oshkosh last year and he said
that I will be able to use one of the aux. inputs to measure alternator load
by using a hall effect current sensor that he had been working on. I ordered
the Hall effect sensor at Oshkosh last July ($35) but still have not gotten
it. I call about once per month but still no luck.
Maybe if we all called to ask about this current sensor, it would move up on
Greg's priority list.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MAP Sensor Question.. |
Hi Kurt,
I found the fitting at a local car parts outlet. There were at least three
plugs (different part numbers) available; all looked the same except for the
indexing on the male part that retained the wire plugs.
None of the plugs I could find were an exact fit.
The indexing is done at the factory by slotting the sides of the three male
"prongs". The positioning of the slots and the colors of the plug's seals
were the only differences in these plugs. There are ridges built into the
MAP sensors that correspond to the slots in the various plugs or vise versa.
Take the MAP sensor that you have to the parts outlet and find a plug of the
right type that will fit or at least almost fit. Then if need be, use a
Dremel tool (my choice) or an Exacto blade and using the MAP sensor as a
guide cut a slot in the plug you bought to make them match.
The plug that is meant for these units is well made with a good weather seal
made of silicone type rubber and a locking device that works well. The wire
supplied at point of manufacture is not certified aircraft type. You can use
the connectors supplied by RMI to make up replacements if you want.
If this is as clear as I intended I'll be surprised.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RMI MAP Sensor Question..
>
>
> For those using the RMI Micro Encoder I have a quick question...I hope!!!
>
> Were you ever able to find a fitting for the 3 prong manifold pressure
> sensor? The folks at RMI don't make/have a fitting, and said that one off
> some type of old pickup seemed to work, but they couldn't remember which
one.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6AQB/Finishing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cost of paint job for N851JC |
A number of people have inquired about the cost of my paint job. The
final cost was just over $6,000. The Harlequin paint from PPG costs
$2,060 per gallon! Fortunately, less than 8 oz were required to paint
all the Harlequin color on my plane. But it takes some extra labor to
do it. After the base coat, the areas to be painted in Harlequin are
painted black. Then the Harlequin is sprayed over this. So, we figured
the Harlequin probably added $750 to $1,000 in cost to my paint job.
The details of the PPG paint: The aircraft was primed with DX1791 wash
primer then DPU 217 urethane primer. Base coated with DBC 81746 yellow,
trimmed with DH 990 Harlequin and clear coated with DCU 2070 clear coat.
Having recently shopped around for painters, the quotes ranged from
$4,000 to $7,000. The fact that an A&P was painting my plane factored
in with me. I didn't have to worry about him painting over my static
ports, or getting overspray on my engine. He removed my prop and had an
IA on the field reinstall, torque and safety it. (This also cured my
grease leak around the prop from my original installation, where I
apparently buggered up the O-ring installing the prop.) All the screws
in the wingtips, inspection panels and fairings were removed and
replaced with stainless screws after the part was painted - not just
painted over like I've seen some painters do.
Jerry Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian Sunset Tour |
Rocket/RV Builders and flyers
Last year I had a flyin at the St.Thomas Ontario airport, CYQS, with
festivities at our farm. It was a lot of fun and we are going to do it
again, except this year I have a runway on our farm and you will be able to
settle right in by the fire with a cool one and look down a row of RVs and
rockets! Details will follow but I have "borrowed" a write up from Vince
Fraziers' site
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Photo%20Gallery.html about
last years fun. Mark your calenders now for this event.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cost of paint job for N851JC |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:50:49 AM
What specifically is Harlequin? Got any specs?
"Jerry Carter" (at)matronics.com on 02/13/2002
06:19:20 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Cost of paint job for N851JC
A number of people have inquired about the cost of my paint job. The
final cost was just over $6,000. The Harlequin paint from PPG costs
$2,060 per gallon! Fortunately, less than 8 oz were required to paint
all the Harlequin color on my plane. But it takes some extra labor to
do it. After the base coat, the areas to be painted in Harlequin are
painted black. Then the Harlequin is sprayed over this. So, we figured
the Harlequin probably added $750 to $1,000 in cost to my paint job.
The details of the PPG paint: The aircraft was primed with DX1791 wash
primer then DPU 217 urethane primer. Base coated with DBC 81746 yellow,
trimmed with DH 990 Harlequin and clear coated with DCU 2070 clear coat.
Having recently shopped around for painters, the quotes ranged from
$4,000 to $7,000. The fact that an A&P was painting my plane factored
in with me. I didn't have to worry about him painting over my static
ports, or getting overspray on my engine. He removed my prop and had an
IA on the field reinstall, torque and safety it. (This also cured my
grease leak around the prop from my original installation, where I
apparently buggered up the O-ring installing the prop.) All the screws
in the wingtips, inspection panels and fairings were removed and
replaced with stainless screws after the part was painted - not just
painted over like I've seen some painters do.
Jerry Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Project For-Sale |
FOR SALE:
RV-4 Project
Wings complete (minus bottom skin riveting)
Tail and control surfaces complete
Fuse in crate (bulkheads complete - ready to go into jig)
Expensive components from finish kit included (Canopy, engine mount,
cowl, etc.)
Asking $9000.
Bob Waalkes
LaPorte, IN
Phone Wk: 219-874-7990
Phone Hm: 219-324-5384
Fax: 219-874-7991
Email: waalkes(at)netnitco.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RMI MAP Sensor Question.. |
I just used the pins on the end of my wire and RTV'd them into the plug.
Seems secure enough. I know, not easy to replace, hopefully it will be
robuts.
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 Finishing
(mounting wings, doing controls, fairings)
-----Original Message-----
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com [mailto:KAKlewin(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: RMI MAP Sensor Question..
For those using the RMI Micro Encoder I have a quick question...I hope!!!
Were you ever able to find a fitting for the 3 prong manifold pressure
sensor? The folks at RMI don't make/have a fitting, and said that one off
some type of old pickup seemed to work, but they couldn't remember which
one.
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
RV6AQB/Finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MAP Sensor Question.. |
> Were you ever able to find a fitting for the 3 prong manifold pressure
> sensor? The folks at RMI don't make/have a fitting,
snip
I was looking at a friends project who has the RMI monitor as well as the
Electroair ignition. One of the Electroair connectors fit perfectly on the
MAP sensor. We might check w/Electroair for a part number.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint in spar bolt holes |
I chucked up a 16 penny nail in a drill, wrapped a bit of rag around it and
attached it with some duct tape, dipped the rag in MEK and "reamed" the
paint out of it the holes with that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any RV8 owners/builders in the Phoenix area?? |
Arizona RV8 owners:
Two North Dakota RV8 builders flying to into Chandler AZ Friday February 15
for a few days. We are both about to start the firewall forward (IO360 200
hp/inverted oil) and instrument panels on our projects. We are looking to
see if any RV8 owners in the Phoenix area would be willing to show us their
aircraft uncowled. Willing to buy beer, lunch or dinner.
Thank you,
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint in spar bolt holes |
I used a short length of the appropriate wooden dowel for the hole in question,
chucked in a variable speed drill. Ease it into the hole and turn a few revolutions,
the paint will come right off on the dowel.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Firewall Forward
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: paint in spar bolt holes
I chucked up a 16 penny nail in a drill, wrapped a bit of rag around it and
attached it with some duct tape, dipped the rag in MEK and "reamed" the
paint out of it the holes with that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
I finally got some pix of my -8A with the wings on posted to my site
this morning... I also posted new 3 view drawings...
I added new 3 view drawings for the -4, -6's, & -8's with the new
Sheared Wing Tips!
I also added new 3 view drawing for the -8's without any seams on the
skins!
I have also added the RV-10 2 view drawing...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Quickbuild Questions |
Steve-
I built an A frame for the wings - its on casters so
that I can move it around.
The QB is conveniently setup so that you can make a
simple cradle to hold the front with an H -frame and a
support for the tail.
I will send pix in sep attachement.
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
Hi all-
Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
-8's I have seen.
If I do not install the step, what have folks done to
cover up the huge hole on the side of the fuse. (I am
a QB.)
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
I've installed the ugly step - just for convienence. I also have the QB,
but the hole for the boarding step was not present in the QB - I had to
add it (or remove it as the case may be) myself.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Fuse(finish kit on order)
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: dag adamson [mailto:dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: -8A builders - Do I need the step?
Hi all-
Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
-8's I have seen.
If I do not install the step, what have folks done to
cover up the huge hole on the side of the fuse. (I am
a QB.)
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have the following parts for sale. All in brand new condition. Money
back guarantee. make any reasonable offer.
Sterba Prop for O-360
2 1/4 prop extension
crush plate
prop bolts
Spinner-cut out & painted
Airspeed indicator (Knots)
Tachometer
Vans 35 amp alternator & regulator
330-592-4944
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Quickbuild Questions |
Dag,
Never mind...I got your attachments.
Thanks.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Quickbuild Questions
>
> Steve-
>
> I built an A frame for the wings - its on casters so
> that I can move it around.
>
> The QB is conveniently setup so that you can make a
> simple cradle to hold the front with an H -frame and a
> support for the tail.
>
> I will send pix in sep attachement.
>
> -Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are the
RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna? I really don't
want it out in the breeze. The installation manual says the antenna should
be close to the ELT and near vertical. I know some guys have put the
antenna in the wing tip. If you do that where do you put the ELT? Others
have put the antenna under the fiberglass tail fairing? How does that work?
Neither one has the antenna vertical, does that matter? If I put the ELT in
the cockpit somewhere and run the coax out to the wing tip, does that work
OK? Thanks for the help.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, Palmdale, CA
Fuselage, N948RC (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of paint job for N851JC |
> What specifically is Harlequin? Got any specs?
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Eric,
I don't know about this brand name but Dupont sells the same technology.
You can read about it at
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/
click on "Color"
Then on "Color Styling"
Then on "Dupont Automotive Finishes"
Then on "ChromaLusion"
There are no samples to look at. You have to go to an automotive Dupont
paint dealer. The order form gives you the colors and what the basic color
shift is. The cost is about $650 per quart. You can buy as little as 2
ounces. I haven't researched it thoroughly but I do know that the color
changes with the undercoat. To get the true sample color you use a black
undercoat. By using different undercoats the effect changes. Someone here
painted their Jaguar with this paint and used three different undercoats to
get different shades. I plan on using it on my 6A.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
>
>I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are the
>RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna?
I put the ELT on a tray affixed to the aft face of the F-808 bulkhead,
against the fuselage side. Ran the coax cable along the longeron and
mounted the antenna into the turtledeck bulkhead, right under the tail
fairing. I used an Adel clamp to support the antenna which keeps it from
grounding out against the airframe. Don't worry about the orientation of
the antenna. How you gonna know what orientation the airplane will end up
in after a crash? Another good option for the antenna is to mount it
vertically, into the back seat arm rest, and curve it up along the forward
face of the 807, anchored along the way with small plastic clamps.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
Todd...
Unless your middle name is "Stilts" you will need the step... I have
seen steps installed on the tail dragger even...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - STILL on finish kit...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: dag adamson [mailto:dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: -8A builders - Do I need the step?
Hi all-
Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
-8's I have seen.
If I do not install the step, what have folks done to
cover up the huge hole on the side of the fuse. (I am
a QB.)
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
Just get a new whip style antenna from Chief and then you have way more
options... I got the ATX 05-02-006 PHOTO Rubberized cone type ELT
antenna 22" Whip with rubber-coated wire. 7/16" mounting hole for
$39.50... I installed on the very aft portion of the F-860C-R aft
armrest... http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/panel27.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich
Subject: RV-List: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8
-->
I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are
the RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna? I really
don't want it out in the breeze. The installation manual says the
antenna should be close to the ELT and near vertical. I know some guys
have put the antenna in the wing tip. If you do that where do you put
the ELT? Others have put the antenna under the fiberglass tail fairing?
How does that work? Neither one has the antenna vertical, does that
matter? If I put the ELT in the cockpit somewhere and run the coax out
to the wing tip, does that work OK? Thanks for the help.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, Palmdale, CA
Fuselage, N948RC (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
Ooops... Forgot... I installed my ELT on the rear baggage shelf...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish5.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8
Just get a new whip style antenna from Chief and then you have way more
options... I got the ATX 05-02-006 PHOTO Rubberized cone type ELT
antenna 22" Whip with rubber-coated wire. 7/16" mounting hole for
$39.50... I installed on the very aft portion of the F-860C-R aft
armrest... http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/panel27.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich
Subject: RV-List: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8
-->
I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are
the RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna? I really
don't want it out in the breeze. The installation manual says the
antenna should be close to the ELT and near vertical. I know some guys
have put the antenna in the wing tip. If you do that where do you put
the ELT? Others have put the antenna under the fiberglass tail fairing?
How does that work? Neither one has the antenna vertical, does that
matter? If I put the ELT in the cockpit somewhere and run the coax out
to the wing tip, does that work OK? Thanks for the help.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, Palmdale, CA
Fuselage, N948RC (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
I did something a little unique, but like most installations, it's not
perfect. I can't recall the name of the panel, but you know the left side
panel where the fuel selector mounts? I mounted my ELT on the bottom of the
right side panel. The antenna runs almost straight up from there, and
through one of the lightening holes just forward of the steel windscreen
weldment. I put the antenna in a length of plastic tubing, and bent it
around the front side of the windscreen roll bar. A couple spots of your
favorite adhesive will keep it there, and you'll never see it.
The downside to this is that it's unlikely to be vertical, in fact it may be
buried in the dirt if you flip the plane over. The good news is that the
roll bar if fairly beefy, and it will probably protect the antenna to a
great extent. In general, I don't have much hope that an ELT will do any
good, but it's the law for an RV-8. It's not required in a single place,
and I'm currently debating whether to install one in the RV-3. I probably
won't bother with an ELT or a transponder (for different reasons of course).
Rusty (stuck in a hotel)
RV-8 For Sale
RV-3B Rotary Engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
Dag,
You will need the step - it will also protect your flap.
Regarding the hole - you shouldn't have one. Make a cutout and if you finish
the exterior cover carefully you can slide it over the step and it will
look great. A little bit of a pain but it's worth the effort. Also we used a
piece of 3M self sticking tape to wrap around the step to prevent slipping -
doesn't look bad. we also used this tape for the top of the canopy rails.
Really helps when getting in the a/c, just don't overlap it into the cockpit
- it'll eat your nice leather jacket.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: -8A builders - Do I need the step?
>Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 10:06:32 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Hi all-
>
>Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
>to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
>-8's I have seen.
>
>If I do not install the step, what have folks done to
>cover up the huge hole on the side of the fuse. (I am
>a QB.)
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>
>====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Natick, MA
>RV-8A Fuselage
>*****************
>
>http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
You don't have to install it by I highly recommend it. Once fitted, the
flap fairing covers most of the step weldment. With the flap installed, the
step is not very obvious.
Without the step you will run a high probability of some passenger slipping
and landing his/her foot on the flap. This would ruin your whole day.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (almost done, last odds and ends)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dag adamson
Subject: RV-List: -8A builders - Do I need the step?
Hi all-
Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
-8's I have seen.
If I do not install the step, what have folks done to
cover up the huge hole on the side of the fuse. (I am
a QB.)
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Insurance Question for JT |
John,
What is the coverage on the Vangaurd Package with respect to me using my
plane to fly to Lake Tahoe for a work related business conference with
myself and another employee on board. I would not be charging any fee for
this other than standard mileage compensation, which I don't think
constitutes a commercial operation.
Would all the coverages still apply? And how does that cover/provide
protection, if any, for the Community College District I work for.
My employer is claiming that this is not allowable under any circumstances
as there is no coverage for them. My contention is that my Aircraft policy
is no different than my Auto policy in this respect, and they do allow me to
use my car to drive to conferences.
thanks
Wheeler North
PS I'm sending this via the list-server as it probably applies to many of us
who might like use our fine aircraft on a work related venture.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Can the EIS be wired in a manner that permits the viewing of the RPM
drop while each mag is checked without installing a selector switch
(other than the mag selector)?
As currently wired, I can view the drop in RPM when checking one mag but
when the other mag is checked, I get no RPM reading. I simply listen to
determine if the mag is functioning properly.
I currently have Electroaire installed in place of one mag but I can
check the drop on only one and then listen to check the other.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 430 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
> I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are the
> RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna? I really don't
> want it out in the breeze. The installation manual says the antenna
should
> be close to the ELT and near vertical. I know some guys have put the
> antenna in the wing tip. If you do that where do you put the ELT? Others
> have put the antenna under the fiberglass tail fairing? How does that
work?
> Neither one has the antenna vertical, does that matter? If I put the ELT
in
> the cockpit somewhere and run the coax out to the wing tip, does that work
> OK? Thanks for the help.
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8, Palmdale, CA
> Fuselage, N948RC (reserved)
After considering all the options I put mine in the emennage intersection...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-447x.jpg
Van's does this on their demo ships. Although still sheilded, RF experts
tell me this will xmit better than the 1/8 wavelength rubber ducky antennas.
I know the FARs say to put it within 45 degrees of vertical, but my DAR had
no problem with it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #800500, 143.5 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "STEVEN D WELCH" <missy_watts(at)mindspring.com> |
I HAVE RV 4 NEEDS INTERIOR TO BE FINISHED 160 LYCOMING WITH BREAK IN TIME
ONLY IN OHIO $ 42000.00 O.B.O. 937-857-9259 STEVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "old ogre" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: RV-List: wanted:
>
> looking for uncompleted RV4 project...hopefully located in the
> northwest....thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "STEVEN D WELCH" <missy_watts(at)mindspring.com> |
DO TO VOLUME PLEASE TAKE ME OFF YOUR MAILING LIST !!!!!!!!!!!! THANK
YOU STEVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: tail pumping evaluation
>
> Just my $.02 to the tail cone pressurization research effort:
>
> Place a flexible plastic tube in the tail cone via the baggage panel
> "triangles." Connect to a spare altimeter and recored the indicated
altitude
> in level flight. Disconnect tube and note reading based on cabin
pressure.
> Differential indicated altitude should help quantify the magnitude of the
> problem and the effectiveness of any fixes that are later tried. Seems
like
> it would work better than a subjective guess as to heater effectiveness,
wind
> on the back of the neck, etc.
>
> FWIW, my heat usually seems adequate (single Robbins muff on 2 in 1
Vetterman
> crossover)
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
In a message dated 2/13/02 1:07:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Hi all-
Do I really need that ugly step for my -8A to get in
to the cockpit or can I leave it off like some of the
-8's I have seen. >>
I recommend the step for all of the "A" models. Also, for the "non -A"
models if you want easy access for individuals who don't have the best
mobility. My father has creaky knees and has a very difficult time getting
into my -6. With my grandfather, cockpit access is all but impossible.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian Sunset Tour |
Tom,
Please let the list know the date as soon as you decide. I know of two or
three of us in the Philadelphia area that would love to come up to your
place. Thanks.
Louis Willig
Penn Valley, PA
(610) 668-4964
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PLENUM CHAMBER ON RV-4 |
FRED--------------OOOOO, I LIKE THE EXTRA KNOTS THING.
MIKE
RV-4 [ TO BE ]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MikesRV7A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Completed RV6/A Empennage For Sale |
Owner-constructed Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizers, Rudder, Elevators,
Trim tab complete, fitted and hung. Fiberglass work started. Interior
surfaces primed with Sherwin Williams wash primer. Horizontal and Vertical
still covered with protective vinyl coating. Good workmanship (I'm not
perfect!). EAA Technical Counselor sign off. Good deal for someone getting
started on a budget, or in need of replacement parts.
Mike Lynch
San Antonio
(210) 859-1308
MikesRV6A(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MikesRV7A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Completed RV6/A Empennage For Sale |
Owner-constructed Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizers, Rudder, Elevators,
Trim tab complete, fitted and hung. Fiberglass work started. Interior
surfaces primed with Sherwin Williams wash primer. Horizontal and Vertical
still covered with protective vinyl coating. Good workmanship (I'm not
perfect!). EAA Technical Counselor sign off. Good deal for someone getting
started on a budget, or in need of replacement parts.
Mike Lynch
San Antonio
(210) 859-1308
MikesRV6A(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
Regarding the boarding steps on the "A's", I would recommend it (them).
Each time I take someone up in my plane, even with the step, it is a little
nervewracking helping them climb in. I would guess that most passengers
would need some sort of ground based step if the plane didn't have it. I am
6' tall, and would not want to go from the ground directly to the wing walk.
One additional thing to consider is that without the step, putting flaps
down before shutdown would be almost mandatory. I only put flaps down for
kids or very short adults now.
Some are afraid of the speed penalty, but I suspect it is much less than 1
knot if they are put in correctly.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 88 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
No one on the list can remove you. You either have to DIE or scroll down to
the instructions at the bottom of each and every message.
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVEN D WELCH" <missy_watts(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:UN SUBSCRIBE
DO TO VOLUME PLEASE TAKE ME OFF YOUR MAILING LIST !!!!!!!!!!!! THANK
YOU STEVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: tail pumping evaluation
>
> Just my $.02 to the tail cone pressurization research effort:
>
> Place a flexible plastic tube in the tail cone via the baggage panel
> "triangles." Connect to a spare altimeter and recored the indicated
altitude
> in level flight. Disconnect tube and note reading based on cabin
pressure.
> Differential indicated altitude should help quantify the magnitude of the
> problem and the effectiveness of any fixes that are later tried. Seems
like
> it would work better than a subjective guess as to heater effectiveness,
wind
> on the back of the neck, etc.
>
> FWIW, my heat usually seems adequate (single Robbins muff on 2 in 1
Vetterman
> crossover)
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hagen" <chagen(at)hagenrealestate.com> |
Bravo cy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:UN SUBSCRIBE
>
> No one on the list can remove you. You either have to DIE or scroll down
to
> the instructions at the bottom of each and every message.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "STEVEN D WELCH" <missy_watts(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re:UN SUBSCRIBE
>
>
>
> DO TO VOLUME PLEASE TAKE ME OFF YOUR MAILING LIST !!!!!!!!!!!! THANK
> YOU STEVE
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: tail pumping evaluation
>
>
> >
> > Just my $.02 to the tail cone pressurization research effort:
> >
> > Place a flexible plastic tube in the tail cone via the baggage panel
> > "triangles." Connect to a spare altimeter and recored the indicated
> altitude
> > in level flight. Disconnect tube and note reading based on cabin
> pressure.
> > Differential indicated altitude should help quantify the magnitude of
the
> > problem and the effectiveness of any fixes that are later tried. Seems
> like
> > it would work better than a subjective guess as to heater effectiveness,
> wind
> > on the back of the neck, etc.
> >
> > FWIW, my heat usually seems adequate (single Robbins muff on 2 in 1
> Vetterman
> > crossover)
> >
> > Bill B
> > RV-6A
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
Yes, you need the step.
Jimmy Hill
8a---200 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hinge pin length |
I am building a 6 and have two 6 ft flap hinge pins? Plans call for these to
be 52 or so inches. I either have wrong ones or I must cut. I see nothing in
plans or manual that mentions cutting these two. Thoughts? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Listers
I published an invitation to our flyin in canada yesterday and I forgot
to
put the dates in the body of the message, June 22/23. email me at
"fairlea(at)execulink.com" for details.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -8A builders - Do I need the step? |
I disagree .... I think it becomes a personal preference. I owned a Gruman
Cheetah and took the step off.
Some people like them some don't. I don't.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: axle bearing failure questions |
Bill--If the bearing was packed well with grease i would think it's an
isolated case---Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MAP Sensor Question.. |
Mine has been stuck in like that for nearly three years, no problems yet.
Carroll Bird, RV-4, 200 hours and counting
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I just used the pins on the end of my wire and RTV'd them into the plug.
> Seems secure enough. I know, not easy to replace, hopefully it will be
> robuts.
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 Finishing
> (mounting wings, doing controls, fairings)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com [mailto:KAKlewin(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 6:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RMI MAP Sensor Question..
>
>
> For those using the RMI Micro Encoder I have a quick question...I hope!!!
>
> Were you ever able to find a fitting for the 3 prong manifold pressure
> sensor? The folks at RMI don't make/have a fitting, and said that one off
> some type of old pickup seemed to work, but they couldn't remember which
> one.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6AQB/Finishing...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | AKZO primer shelf life? |
I'm not asking what primer to use. 8
)
But I would like some advice on the shelf life of primers...specifically the
AKZO 2-part epoxy primer. Bought it in August of 2001. Used it nearly
every day until October. Then, after the emp was finished it's been sitting
on my shelf since then. About to order my wings (finally!) and I'm
wondering:
Will AKZO be usable after 4-6 months of sitting idle on a shelf? I assume
that's no problem as long as I thoroughly shake/stir (shaken, not
stirred...) up the main part before mixing?
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com:8000
N747DC RV-7 wings soon
N201DD Mooney 201 (FINALLY SOLD!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
Hi Bob,
The hinges are sent to you extra long so you can cut them to whatever length
you need to create a method of securing the hinge pin. Some people leave it
a couple of inches long, bend it over on the end, then safety wire the bent
end to a hole in the aileron hinge bracket.
I personally found the long hinge a little difficult to get in and out of
the flap and wing eyelets so I did it the way I've seen many builders do it.
Cut the hinge pin in half and insert two halves from the middle. Simply
remove a couple of the eyelets at the middle of the flap hinge on the wing
and flaps. The shorter pins can then be slid in from the center. I left
them long enough to make a 2" bend on the ends the face each other in the
middle. To secure them, I safety wired the two bent ends together running
the safety wire through a hole dilled in the flap brace.
Just one way of many to do it but it works for me and the pins slide easily
in and out for flap removal.
Happy building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
>
> I am building a 6 and have two 6 ft flap hinge pins? Plans call for these
to
> be 52 or so inches. I either have wrong ones or I must cut. I see nothing
in
> plans or manual that mentions cutting these two. Thoughts? Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer shelf life? |
I used AKZO over a two year period without a problem. The bottom of the
greenish part thickens, so you'll need to stir the green component with a
paint stick. For what it's worth, an easy way to mix AKZO (and other
two-part systems of similar viscosity) is to use large medical syringes. I
just slurp up Part A in one syringe. Slurp up the required ratio of Part B
in a second syringe. Squirt both into your mixing container . . . and
viola. No muss. No fuss. And you can do this regardless of whether or not
your 8A has a step or not.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
;
Subject: RV-List: AKZO primer shelf life?
>
> I'm not asking what primer to use. 8
)
>
> But I would like some advice on the shelf life of primers...specifically
the
> AKZO 2-part epoxy primer. Bought it in August of 2001. Used it nearly
> every day until October. Then, after the emp was finished it's been
sitting
> on my shelf since then. About to order my wings (finally!) and I'm
> wondering:
>
> Will AKZO be usable after 4-6 months of sitting idle on a shelf? I assume
> that's no problem as long as I thoroughly shake/stir (shaken, not
> stirred...) up the main part before mixing?
>
> )_( Dan
> dan(at)rvproject.com
> http://www.rvproject.com:8000
> N747DC RV-7 wings soon
> N201DD Mooney 201 (FINALLY SOLD!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Engine Performance |
Hi,
I have a new O-360-A1A turning a fixed pitch wood three
blade prop on my RV-6
The airplane has a tach, 4 EGTs & CHTs, and a fuel flow
meter. It does not have a manifold pressure gauge.
What is the best way to get accurate power setting
(75%,65%,55%) for any given altitude?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (Final Inspection 2/23/02)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron riveting in tight spots |
Hi Bob,
I hope this helps:
When I found myself in need of custom made bucking bars I sought out the
local steel fabricating shop. I asked for any small (to them) scraps of
steel that they might be willing to part with. I was introduced to a couple
of scrap boxes that lived next to the cut off machines and warned not to cut
myself. I picked out some bits that approximated what I needed and showed
them to the fellow in charge. He responded with "Is that all you need"?! He
then told me to put a buck in the shop coffee fund and wished me luck.
At home I broke a sweat hack sawing one or two of several the pieces into
the shapes I wanted. I then belt sanded the rivet surfaces. I have since
then used my Delta combination disc and inch wide belt sander to finish the
riveting various pieces as needed. I now have several "custom made" bars
large and small in my collection.
By the way, the Delta 30 inch belt sander is by far the best bang for the
buck hardware store tool in the shop!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting in tight spots
>
> Suggestions from those of you that riveted the top row of aileron rivets.
> There are several spaces where the stiffeners make it extremely difficult,
in
> some case impossible to buck, at least with the bars I have. Anyone used
pop
> rivets or used mini bucking bars? If minis where used, where do I
purchase.
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | PROBLEM SOLVED-FLAP HINGE |
I called Vans today and they said to cutum and save leftovers for fuselage.
Thanks guys, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Quick Build For Sale |
| From: | "Danny Mitchell" <Danny(at)fullmerco.com> |
RV-6A for sale, empanage and canopy have been completed by professional.
New Lycoming 0360-A1A, and CS Prop. Will seperate. Many additonal parts,
In CA Please call 909-947-9467 ask for Danny Mitchell.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
Greetings oh mighty RV drivers and rivet mashers,
After 250+ hours of RV grins, my attitude gyro has gone kaputt. The DG is
still working OK, but seems to precess at a greater rate than before.
So...I'm planning to remove the vac/gyro system from my RV8. I'm finding
that I enjoy spending quality time upside down, but the gyros don't! I'm
not an IFR guy, so I can't see the point in maintaining the airplane in an
instrument capable condition. The RV-10 will be another story, however. :)
I still would like to have a wings level type of indication via a Turn and
Bank, electrically driven. Do these get whacked outta shape just as bad as
the vacuum driven gyros during excursions beyond straight and level? I've
seen them in a few acro ships, which leads me to believe they may be a more
hearty instrument. Any experiences here?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Simple is better.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Richardson" <ray(at)powersportaviation.com> |
Dear RV builders,
We were informed our web site had link problems.
Our web site worked from here and for everyone who is with-in the
centurytel network, so we did not know it was not working for calls
outside the centurytel network
We now have just updated our web site, adding our completed RV-8 cowling
design.
Click under news, you will find the colored 3D solid works designed
integrations for RV-8's
www.powersportaviation.com
We have 6 complete RV-8 integration packages sold, and 6 engines shipped!
2 major insurance company underwriters have told us they will give
Our customers the same cost rate as a certified Lycoming engine, providing
We examine their plane and provide a Powersport paper that said their
Installation has been done in accordance with our integration design.
The Rotary engine has seen some good press lately with an article on
Powersport in the March Issue of Custom Planes, and an article by Paul
Lamar in the February Sport Aviation. It won't be much longer until our
delivered engines are off the ground.
We will be going to sun-n-fun and look forward to an early spring!
Thank-you
Ray Richardson Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
Simple is better.
Isn't that Van's attitude?
Hi Brian,
There are special gyros that can be locked for aerobatics. Ican't remember
what make it is, but I remember a CAP10B on the field that had them. They
were vacuum gyros, not electric.
I would imagine that if you switch of the electric supply to electric gyros
during aero's that they won't get damaged.
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
Brian,
My electric T&B is still ticking after 315 hrs. My hangarmate has 1000+ hrs
on his RV-4, mostly acro, & his gyros are still alive. He pulls the hoses
off them for acro. I guess that works or he's been lucky.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
>
>After 250+ hours of RV grins, my attitude gyro has gone kaputt. The DG is
>still working OK, but seems to precess at a greater rate than before.
>So...I'm planning to remove the vac/gyro system from my RV8. I'm I still
>would like to have a wings level type of indication via a Turn and
>Bank, electrically driven. Do these get whacked outta shape just as bad as
>the vacuum driven gyros during excursions beyond straight and level? I've
>seen them in a few acro ships, which leads me to believe they may be a more
>hearty instrument. Any experiences here?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>Simple is better.
>
>
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Quick Built Kit Primer? |
I am ordering a Quick build kit from vans and have
read a lot about putting primer on all the parts
before assembling them.
My question is - has primer been applied to the inside
of the quick build kits?
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Built Kit Primer? |
>
> I am ordering a Quick build kit from vans and have
> read a lot about putting primer on all the parts
> before assembling them.
>
> My question is - has primer been applied to the inside
> of the quick build kits?
>
Yes
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Built Kit Primer? |
I understood it has. Even if it wasn't, there is nothing you could do about
it. Most of the kit is already riveted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
You just cut to length of your flap.
Marty in Brentwood TN
RV-6A fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
> I am building a 6 and have two 6 ft flap hinge pins? Plans call for these
to
> be 52 or so inches. I either have wrong ones or I must cut. I see nothing
in
> plans or manual that mentions cutting these two. Thoughts? Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltab(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | Bunny's Guide n' Stuff |
>BTW: Where has your excellent web site settled? I don't think anybody on
>the list(s)
>would mind that being broadcasted.
http://www.yahoo.com/bunnysguide -- it seems that the original site at
xoom.com disappeared. Alternatively, you can there via
http://fly.to/bunnysguide
Could you please post this to the RV-list? I'm no longer subscribed to it.
Frank.
(RV-6 project [and website] on hold until Masters thesis is completed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AK-450 ELT, antenna installation, RV-8 |
"Crosley, Rich" wrote:
> I purchased an Ameri-King AK-450 ELT with the 24" antenna. Where are the
> RV-8 guys putting the ELT unit and the big long antenna? I really don't
> want it out in the breeze. The installation manual says the antenna should
> be close to the ELT and near vertical. I know some guys have put the
> antenna in the wing tip. If you do that where do you put the ELT? Others
> have put the antenna under the fiberglass tail fairing? How does that work?
> Neither one has the antenna vertical, does that matter? If I put the ELT in
> the cockpit somewhere and run the coax out to the wing tip, does that work
> OK? Thanks for the help.
Rich:
I put my ELT antenna in the wing tip (sticking straight out from the
end rib) with the ELT bolted to the end rib right next to it. I was
advised to do so by one of the guys at Vans. Statistically it is not
quite as survivable a location as being in the tail or baggage
compartment, but it's a much better location as far as antenna
performance goes. In other words, if it does survive impact, it will
produce a much stronger radiated signal.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
>
> Simple is better.
>
>Isn't that Van's attitude?
From what little I know of the man, I'd say so! The longer I own an RV, the
more I find that I like to keep it simple and easy to maintain. Those
vacuum hoses, regulator, vac pump, vac gauge, etc etc, make for such a mess
behind the panel. With current technology, you'd think aircraft attitude
instrumentation would be MUCH more robust, lightweight, and NOT dependent on
a silly little pump for it's sole survival! Oh well, I'm preaching to the
choir here I'm sure.
>
>
>There are special gyros that can be locked for aerobatics. Ican't remember
>what make it is, but I remember a CAP10B on the field that had them. They
>were vacuum gyros, not electric.
I have CAP10B time myself, but the aircraft had no gyros in it. Those
cageable gyros you saw were possibly military in origin, or super high
dollar civilian and just about bulletproof...and expensive. I guess you get
what you pay for. Too bad IFR crash statistics due to vacuum/gyro failure
hasn't driven these rugged, cageable gyros into the mainstream for the rest
of us little guys to use...and stay alive with.
>
>I would imagine that if you switch of the electric supply to electric gyros
>during aero's that they won't get damaged.
Hmm, interesting. Would be simple to install a switch for it. I'm just not
convinced that a non-spinning gyro will hold up to sudden pitch and roll
excursions any better than a spinning one. This topic has been bantered
about ad infinitum on this list. We'll likely never have a definitive
answer. Sorta like the primer war. (Ack!)
>
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Performance |
In a message dated 2/14/2002 11:35:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com writes:
> I have a new O-360-A1A turning a fixed pitch wood three
> blade prop on my RV-6
>
> The airplane has a tach, 4 EGTs & CHTs, and a fuel flow
> meter. It does not have a manifold pressure gauge.
>
> What is the best way to get accurate power setting
> (75%,65%,55%) for any given altitude?
Let's see, you have no visibility of MP and you have a fixed prop. Anymore
unknowns in this equation and we could get results that range from zero to
infinity ;
) ...., but I'll take a wild stab at it. I have pretty good
numbers on my O-360-A1A with MP and C/S prop, so we'll try to extrapolate
something not totally unusable.
In rough numbers, you lose 1 inHg for every 1000 ft of altitude (from 30 inHg
at MSL) in standard conditions, so just for a baseline, let's get stabilized
at 8000 ft so we can be at a cruise power setting WFO. Standard atmosphere
would produce about 22 inHg at this altitude. Lean to peak and slight rich
to smooth. If you can turn 2600 rpm, you are right around 75% power and you
should be burning around 9.4 gph or just slightly more (this is about 0.43
lb/hp/hr and is near the best you can do with this engine in its standard
configuration). Once again, this is real rough, but if your fuel flow is
close to being accurate, you can read other power levels from the table below
as long as you are leaned out and stabilized at full throttle. At less than
full throttle there is a little greater error in the already rough as a cob
table.
7.0 gph 55% (MP + rpm/100 =42)
7.4 gph 58% (MP + rpm/100 =43)
7.8 gph 62% (MP + rpm/100 =44)
8.2 gph 65% (MP + rpm/100 =45)
8.6 gph 68% (MP + rpm/100 =46)
9.0 gph 72% (MP + rpm/100 =47)
9.4 gph 75% (MP + rpm/100 =48)
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Simple is better.
> >
> >Isn't that Van's attitude?
>
> >From what little I know of the man, I'd say so! The longer I own an RV, the
> more I find that I like to keep it simple and easy to maintain. Those
> vacuum hoses, regulator, vac pump, vac gauge, etc etc, make for such a mess
> behind the panel. With current technology, you'd think aircraft attitude
> instrumentation would be MUCH more robust, lightweight, and NOT dependent on
> a silly little pump for it's sole survival! Oh well, I'm preaching to the
> choir here I'm sure.
Brian, check this out:
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/index.html
Hit the EFIS/Lite link in the left margin.
I have one on order.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
Anyone know the website to look up info on the Apollo 360 GPS/Moving
Map?
Also, any pro's or con's would also be very much appreciated. Not very
much availabe in the archives.
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
"RV List"
| Subject: | Ammeter - how useful? |
I realize most of you with your spacious panels don't worry much about
this but maybe you can show some compassion for us few unfortunates.
Panel space on my RV3 is at a premium and if I was adding a separate
voltmeter it's no more space to make it a Volt/Ammeter. However, some
engine monitors I'm considering come with a voltmeter, which I see a use
for. Is there any compelling reason to try to add an ammeter to an
already crowded panel?
Thanks in advance, Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming front seal |
>
>I need to get the front seal on over the flange. The lycoming OH manuel
>talks about a special tool.
>
>Can I get it in with my screwdrivers, etc. Any hints would be appriciated
>also.
>
Don,
There is a special tool, but it can be done without it. I replaced my front
seal last summer. Large screwdrivers (two of them) will work. You have to
soften the seal in a pot of hot water so it gets gummy. REMOVE THE SPRING
FROM THE SEAL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING TO IT. Make sure the flange is smooth
all the way around with no burs or nicks that could harm the seal. I
layered some duct tape around the flange on mine just to be sure. Then,
slather on some grease around the flange, cook the seal until done, and get
busy! It can be done. Use one screwdriver to anchor the seal in place by
placing the shaft through a lightening hole and the seal. Use the other
screwdriver to pry the seal around the circumference of the flange. Make
sure you don't put it on backwards!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo 360 GPS |
Try http://www.upsat.com/
"Richard D. Fogerson" wrote:
> Anyone know the website to look up info on the Apollo 360 GPS/Moving
> Map?
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
Hey Brian,
I went the VFR route with only an ele turn coordinator from S and F for 59.00
bucks and after 230 hrs (most inverted) no problems. I do however
occasionally practice emerg IMC with a safety pilot using the elec turn
coordinator for roll and yaw, and alt/as for pitch. If your not current you
will have your hands full. With the 195's, 295's and Pilot 3, who needs
anything else.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
RV4 230+
Blackhawk Driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bunny's Guide n' Stuff |
Frank...
I would be willing to host this for you when you get sick of the free
(advertisement ridden) hosting sites...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
deltab(at)erols.com
Subject: RV-List: Bunny's Guide n' Stuff
>BTW: Where has your excellent web site settled? I don't think anybody
>on
>the list(s)
>would mind that being broadcasted.
http://www.yahoo.com/bunnysguide -- it seems that the original site at
xoom.com disappeared. Alternatively, you can there via
http://fly.to/bunnysguide
Could you please post this to the RV-list? I'm no longer subscribed to
it.
Frank.
(RV-6 project [and website] on hold until Masters thesis is completed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
I think a better solution would be to sell the gyros and buy a solid state
system. Something like Dynon Development's system (dynondevelopment.com)
If they ever get it into production. Icarus instruments and blue mountain
avionics both have systems shipping already. Solid state is more reliable
than all those gyros spinning on tiny little bearings.
The main weak link in this is your ships electrical system. For IFR you'd
need an appropriatly redundant electrical system. Which given your current
vacume instruments I can assume you do not have.
If however your interest in having an AI and DG was as a safety device in
case of unintentional VFR into IMC, then these electric devices seem
superior in every way.
Don Mei
RV-4
Chester, CT - 3B9 (Waiting for Dynon to go into production)
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo 360 GPS |
I believe Apollo quit making this unit. I could be wrong tho.
A friend of mine has one in his RV-6A connected to his SL-60. He has sent it
in at least 2 times I know of and it still quits on him 2 or 3 times each
flight (it just shuts down then can be turned back on).
Try upsat.com for the link.
John Danielson
Finishing touches
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question for JT |
Sorry, had continuing education yesterday.
They are correct. Aircraft insurance policies all exclude passenger
coverage for passengers that are covered under work comp. So it would be
fine for you to take the airplane, but the passenger would not be covered
(as the passenger is travelling on business for the company, you are no
problem as you aren't covered under the liability section (you cannot be
liable for your own injury)).
And the policy doesn' t protect your employer at all unless you add them as
an additional insured (this would provide them with coverage under your
liability section... legal defense, and coverage under your $1 million
liability limit.)
Charging per mile could cause difficulties as well. Aviation insurance
policies like you have only allow for compensation of an equal portion (i.e.
1/2 since this is a 2 seat airplane) for gas, oil, landing fees, etc. no
fixed costs (insurance, hangaring, maintenance) because if you include
those, then it is considered rental. You would have to be careful that the
"per mile" charge you put on expenses for that passenger did not exceed the
compensation allowed by the policy (incidentally, I assume you would be
calculating "per mile" as you would have to drive it, not straight line.)
Please let me know if you have any questions.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question for JT
John,
What is the coverage on the Vangaurd Package with respect to me using my
plane to fly to Lake Tahoe for a work related business conference with
myself and another employee on board. I would not be charging any fee for
this other than standard mileage compensation, which I don't think
constitutes a commercial operation.
Would all the coverages still apply? And how does that cover/provide
protection, if any, for the Community College District I work for.
My employer is claiming that this is not allowable under any circumstances
as there is no coverage for them. My contention is that my Aircraft policy
is no different than my Auto policy in this respect, and they do allow me to
use my car to drive to conferences.
thanks
Wheeler North
PS I'm sending this via the list-server as it probably applies to many of us
who might like use our fine aircraft on a work related venture.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
In a message dated 2/15/02 12:36:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
<< Brian, check this out:
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/index.html
Hit the EFIS/Lite link in the left margin.
I have one on order.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com >>
I've invited these guys to visit one of our next EAA chapter meetings. I'll
post to the list when they confirm which meeting they will attend.
Anyone/everyone in the area is welcome to attend.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <n174kt(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
I would imagine that if you switch of the electric supply to electric gyros
during aero's that they won't get damaged.
----------
I asked this question to the folks at Kelly Manufacturing (RC Allen), and
they said it doesn't matter. From what I understood of the conversation,
some types of damage could be limited by having the power off, but it would
increase the risk of other types of damage. Their advice was to just leave
them running and expect that they will last a reasonable time. So far, my
electric DG, AI, and TC are behaving well at 100 hours, though I haven't
exactly tortured them with acro. I've done maybe 20 loops and hundreds of
rolls. On the other hand, my local RV-8 buddy did have to send his DG (RC
Allen electric) in for service at about 200 hours, and probably more acro
than I've done.
I'm not an IFR kinda guy, but I realize the importance of being able to keep
the right side up when confronted with fog or other unexpected IMC weather.
The RV-3B will not have gyros, but I'm still trying to decide what to
install as a "safety" measure if the SHTF.
Cheers,
Rusty
RV-8 for sale
RV-3B rotary engine project (not powersport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Performance |
>
>Hi,
>I have a new O-360-A1A turning a fixed pitch wood three
>blade prop on my RV-6
>
>The airplane has a tach, 4 EGTs & CHTs, and a fuel flow
>meter. It does not have a manifold pressure gauge.
>
>What is the best way to get accurate power setting
>(75%,65%,55%) for any given altitude?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>N442E (Final Inspection 2/23/02)
Glen,
I don't know if you knew Bill Benedict, Van's General Manager. He and His
son, Jeremy are with the Cheif Pilot now. But he provided an incredible
amount of time, information, and friendship to many of us on and off the RV
list before he left us. I kept most of his posts to the list, including the
one that follows:
Several months ago I was asked to discuss why I felt a Manifold Pressure
(mp) gauge was desirable in an application
with a fixed pitch prop. I have agonized over this question because I
wanted to paint a clear picture and not just give an
emotional or company line answer, so here goes:
The manifold pressure gauge! What is it measuring? How responsive is it to
control input? What outside factors affect
the reading? These are all questions that the next few paragraphs will
elaborate on.
Most of us have looked in a carburetor and seen the butterfly valve which
the throttle controls. When an engine is given
full throttle, the butterfly valve opens up and the engine is presented
with the full atmospheric pressure through the
induction system plus possibly a little ram effect from the forward velocity
of the aircraft through the air. Of course
there are factors working against us! As the air progresses from the input
through the filter and makes all the bends
required to get into the engine, a certain amount of turbulence and drag
will reduce the available amount of pressure to
the engine. If we were to measure the pressure at the intake valve at sea
level with the engine not operating we would
see about 30 to 32 inches of pressure, the same as the barometric pressure
(but only when at sea level). This is exactly
what the manifold pressure will read at sea level with a full throttle
take-off. If we are at some altitude other than sea
level, the manifold pressure will decrease by one inch per thousand feet of
altitude. When the throttle is pulled back,
the butterfly valve restricts the movement of the air and the engine has to
suck the air through the induction system. The
manifold pressure gauge then indicates less than atmospheric pressure, and
the engine produces less power. Thus there
is a direct relation between throttle setting and manifold pressure.
As we change the throttle position the engine develops a different amount of
power. The prop is absorbing this power
and trying to turn faster or slower, however the velocity of the air
through the prop is trying to keep the prop turning at
a speed proportional to the velocity of the aircraft. The air is acting
like a non-compressible fluid and actually drives the
prop. Eventually the aircraft speed will come to equilibrium with the
amount of power being created by the engine and
the prop will be turning at an RPM proportional to this speed, assuming we
have been at a constant altitude throughout
this whole exercise, and we can observe the RPM and determine what power
the engine is producing. If we had
observed the manifold pressure when we changed the throttle setting, we
could have determined our power level
immediately without waiting for the aircraft to change speed and balance out
with the power being produced by the
engine.
What are some typical manifold pressure readings? Once again, this would
be at sea level and with a constant speed
prop. On take-off, use full throttle and 2700 rpm until a climb speed of
100 to 120 mph is established, then back off to
25" mp, 2500 rpm. Since the fixed pitch prop is going to spin at its own
rate, I would adjust the manifold pressure up
1" above the 25 " mark for each 100 rpm the prop is turning below the 2500
mark. Typically a fixed pitch prop will
turn about 2300 to 2400 rpm on climb so I would set the throttle at 26 to 27
inches, and add a little throttle as you gain
altitude to keep the mp reading constant. Once a cruising altitude is
reached, set the manifold pressure between 22 and
25 inches and the prop will turn at a speed proportional to your airspeed.
Now lets start our descent to land. As we let the nose drop below the
horizon with no throttle change, the speed
increases and the RPMs increase. Initially the manifold pressure remains
the same but it appears the power has increased
since the RPMs have increased. As we retard the throttle, there is no
direct RPM change with the throttle position.
However the manifold pressure changes directly and immediately as the
throttle changes. As the descent continues, the
atmospheric air pressure increases by one inch per thousand feet of
altitude. With a manifold pressure gauge, the pilot
will observe this change and can continue to retard the throttle maintaining
nearly a constant power without fear of shock
cooling the engine. As long as the manifold pressure is indicating within a
range of 20 to 25 inches, the engine is
producing power and will not experience shock cooling.
Obviously the values given above are dependent on the prop, however, they
will be typically within the range given.
Once you have developed a feel for manifold pressure readings, you will
almost exclusively use the mp gauge as a
device for setting the throttle (power) independent of the type of prop
being used and the RPMs will merely be an
indicator of your pitch attitude.
Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter - how useful? |
>
>Is there any compelling reason to try to add an ammeter to an
>already crowded panel?
>
>Thanks in advance, Rick Fogerson, RV3 wings, Boise, ID
>
None whatsoever. The voltmeter tells you all you need to know. Approx. 14
volts is good. 12 volts or less and your alternator has gone south. Simple
as that.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument templates |
> Does anyone, out there in RV land, know of a website where I can download> and
print full scale instruments, gauges and radios etc. to use as a "cu> t & paste"
sort of thing in panel design and layout??
Aircraft Spruce catalog has the instrument cutouts. That's how I did my
panel: cut outs and poster board and about 3 months of off and on
rearranging. Now: wouldn't change a thing. Best looking panel I've seen.
But, then, I am somewhat biased, I guess.
Micheal
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meier, George" <George.Meier(at)goodrich.com> |
| Subject: | T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
After 250+ hours of RV grins, my attitude gyro has gone kaputt.
I can't speak for every turn and bank indicator on the market, but I have
worked on a solid state VG and DG system developed for military and
commercial applications. It uses a Quartz sensor (QRS-11 I believe) that has
a totally solid state sensor.
The non-acrobatic version of this device can handle 200 degrees per second.
The next one up the line can handle around 700 degrees per second. The only
thing lost is a tenth (or so) of a degree of accuracy when you exceed the
published rates. Basically, you can do whatever you want to it (except maybe
drop it) and it's not a problem. Incidentally, dropping it from less than 5
feet will only knock off the accuracy. It would take quite a jolt to break
it, but I'm sure it can be done.
George Meier
RV6A - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I just learned an interesting tidbit that I thought I would pass along.
Van's is working on an RV-9! Notice there is no 'A' behind the 9. That's
right, a taildragger RV-9. They are working hard on finishing it up and
having it at Sun-N-Fun. Look for it soon.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Well....if it's true, we need to be ready... I added the RV-9 to the
3-views on my web site...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/paint/index.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Subject: RV-List: RV-9
I just learned an interesting tidbit that I thought I would pass along.
Van's is working on an RV-9! Notice there is no 'A' behind the 9.
That's
right, a taildragger RV-9. They are working hard on finishing it up and
having it at Sun-N-Fun. Look for it soon.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question for JT |
As an insurance agent and agency owner who dabbles in aircraft insurance i
will let JT handle the aircraft part of the question.
However on the comment about your employer saying that you wouldnt be covered
in the plane. That is most likely correct. Aircraft are a HUGE exclussion.
But personal autos are coverered under a hired and non owned endorsement,
which provides coverage for your employer when you are using your vehicle for
company business.
Also depending on the work comp policy, there may not be coverage either.
So therefore your employer was right in saying they dont have coverage.
chris wilcox
In a message dated 2/15/2002 8:46:11 AM Central Standard Time, jhelms(at)i1.net
writes:
> John,
>
> What is the coverage on the Vangaurd Package with respect to me using my
> plane to fly to Lake Tahoe for a work related business conference with
> myself and another employee on board. I would not be charging any fee for
> this other than standard mileage compensation, which I don't think
> constitutes a commercial operation.
>
> Would all the coverages still apply? And how does that cover/provide
> protection, if any, for the Community College District I work for.
>
> My employer is claiming that this is not allowable under any circumstances
> as there is no coverage for them. My contention is that my Aircraft policy
> is no different than my Auto policy in this respect, and they do allow me
> to
> use my car to drive to conferences.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Performance |
I pulled some very detailed performance numbers for the O-360 off the
internet but I don't remember where. I will be happy to fax them to you if
you like.
John Furey
RV6A O-360 Sterba wood changing to Sensenich metal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter - how useful? |
-Is there any compelling reason to try to add
> an ammeter to an
> already crowded panel?
Rick:
Depends. The voltmeter will tell you thay your
battery is dying (or dead). 13.8 volts or so is good.
12 - ish volts is bad. If you aren't going to fly
IFR that's probably enough information.
I remember once flying over the mountains in
California at MEA in solid clouds and moderate
turbulence that went to 20,000+ feet. I include the
ammeter in my scan, and noticed the meter indicating
discharge shortly after my alternator went belly up.
That early warning allowed me to start shedding load
promptly, saving me a lot of heartburn and possibly
saving my life. I broke into the clear east of
Bakersfield just as my comm and nav radios ran out of
battery juice. In those conditions I wouldn't have
enjoyed a silent 200 mile ride with needle, ball,
airspeed and vacuum gyros with no electronic navaids.
With only a voltmeter in the panel, I probably
wouldn't have known I had a problem until the radios
started getting scratchy.
George
RV-8 N888GK
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | From the Ground Up RV videos |
Yesterday we received a first shipment of EAA's new "From the Ground Up" RV
construction videos. Here's a quick review after watching most of the 5 hour
presentation.
It's like the PBS show "This Old House" but for building an RV. These are
well produced videos, originally aired on the Discovery Channel, which show
you step-by step what the building experience of an RV-8 Quickbuild is
about. They are not as detailed as the Orndorff construction videos, and can
not be construed as an addendum to the manual; but they are enjoyable to
watch and do contain hundreds of little hints and tips which can help make
your project more sucessful.
Watch them because you are yet to begin and want to know what your building
commitment will be all about. Watch them for the hints
and tips. Watch them because you just can't get enough of RVs.
The set of 4 tapes is $80, or you can get them individually for $22 each
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
Tape #1
Your shop, tools, basic processes, costs.
Empennage construction and installation
Wing construction, flaps & ailerons
Interview with Van.
Tape #2
Attaching wings, control surfaces,
control linkages, customizing options.
Fuselage interior components. Other
aircraft restoration problems
Tape #3
Instrument panel construction.
Selection, installation, and wiring of
instruments and avionics.
Engine and prop selection and installation.
Engine manufacture overlook by Teledyne-Mattituck
Fuel system plumbing
Tape #4
The canopy, cowl, various
fairings, and fiberglass techniques.
Paint prep and painting techniques.
FAA DAR inspection and guidelines.
First flight and early flight tests.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | oshkosh 2001 crash |
can anyone give me any information and the cause of an rv crashing at
oshkosh 2001?
the pilot's name was bob payne. he was killed in the crash.
.....
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oshkosh 2001 crash |
In a message dated 2/15/2002 7:27:35 PM Central Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Are you sure it was at Oshkosh? I don't find any reference to a RV-4 crash
> around Oshkosh time in 2001 or 2000.
>
I live in oshkosh and there wasnt a RV crash in 2001 here.
chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Vista Aviation inc - Revised February Specials |
Hey, in case anybody out there is looking for half decent deals on avionics,
see the forwarded message...
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vista Aviation" <vista(at)lb.bcentral.com>
Subject: Vista Aviation inc - Revised February Specials
> Vista Aviation Inc.
> 12653 Osborne St.
> Pacoima, CA 91331
> USA
> (818) 896-6442
> 1(800) 828-6756
> Fax - (818) 896-9541
> E-mail vista(at)vistaaviation.com
> please visit www.vistaaviation.com for new and used avionics and more...
>
> ---------------------
> * *
> * REVISED FEBRUARY *
> * SPECIALS *
> * *
> ---------------------
>
> LOTS OF NEW EQUIPMENT IN STOCK & LOWER PRICES!!
>
>
> ALL FACTORY OVERHAULED HONEYWELL EQUIPMENT NOW CARRIES 6-12 MONTH WARRANTY
>
> Aircraft for sale and employment opportunities on bottom of page.
>
>
> ***************
> FACTORY NEW KMD-150
> ***************
> With 2 Year Warranty
> With its Large 5" diagonal color screen, the KMD-150 presents the most
economical multi-function display you can buy, and the only one with
internal GPS. Combining Jeppesen aeronautical, cartographic mapping and GPS
navigation, the KMD-150 shows you everything from flight plans to waypoints
to airports, NDBs, intersections, VORs, special use airspace, rivers, roads,
lakes, cities, railroads, tower obstructions, terrain elevation, and WX-500
stormscope capability. Its database can also be customized, enabling you to
view the specific information you would like to see at whichever map range
you choose. There is even a handy map declutter feature that allows you to
remove detail as you zoom out, and remembers your preferences for future
use.
> With internal GPS - $2,875
>
>
> *********************
> KLN-94
> 069-01034-0101
> Color GPS
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,400
> *********************
>
> GNSXLS
> 17960-0203-0014
> 17960-0102-0101
> 17960-0203-0001
> Global Nav Management system
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $12,500
> ----------------
> KMA-20
> 066-1024-03
> Audio panel Mkr with tray and plug
> Nice condition yellow tag + 8130-3 by Vista - $450
> ----------------
> VHF-20A
> 622-1879-001
> Mod 1,4,7,10,11
> 8130-3 by Vista - $700
> ----------------
> VHF-20A
> 622-1879-001
> Mod 1,4,5,7
> 8130-3 by Vista - $700
> ----------------
> VHF-20B
> 622-1334-001
> Mod 1,4,5,7,10,11
> 8130-3 by Vista - $1,000
> ----------------
> KMA-24H
> 066-01055-0071
> Audio Panel/Intercom
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KMA-24H
> 066-01055-0070
> Audio Panel Intercom
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KMA-26
> 066-01155-0201
> 066-01155-0101
> Audio Panel with marker beacon + intercom
> Complete with factory install kit and tray
> OHC by Vista with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $795
> ----------------
> KMA-28
> 066-01176-0101
> Audio panel W/ Marker Beacon and intercom
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
> ----------------
> AG14-01
> Electric Horizon 14V lighted
> Non TSOd factory new $1,195
> ----------------
> AG28-01
> Electric Horizon 28V lighted
> Non TSOd factory new $1,195
> ----------------
> KA-33
> 071-04037-0000
> 071-04037-0001
> Cooling fan
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $250
> ----------------
> KA-35A
> 066-03012-0001
> Remote Marker Assy.
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $200
> ----------------
> MD-41-324
> MD-41-334
> Switcher annunciator
> 8130-3 by Vista - $450
> ----------------
> KA-44B
> 071-01234-0000
> Loop antenna
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> KA-51B
> Slaving Control
> 071-01242-0001 28V black
> 071-01242-0006 28V black horizontal
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $425
> ----------------
> KN-53
> 066-01067-0004
> NAV receiver FM immunity CNI-5000
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $2,100
> ----------------
> KN-53
> 066-01067-0000
> NAV receiver
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,000
> ----------------
> KA-54A
> 071-01501-0000
> Stripline KRA-405 Antenna
> 8130-3 by Honeywell - $350
> ----------------
> KN-63
> 066-01070-0001
> Remote DME
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,895
> ----------------
> ANT-67A
> 071-01548-0200
> TCAS Antenna
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,750
> ----------------
> KT-70
> 066-01141-0101
> Mode 's' Transponder
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,950
> ----------------
> KN-72
> 066-4009-00
> VOR Converter
> Yellow tag + 8130-3 by Vista - $600
> ----------------
> KN-75
> 066-01063-0000
> Universal Tune Glideslope Receiver
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> KT-76A
> 066-01062-0000
> 066-01062-0010
> Transponder
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KT-76C
> 066-01156-0101
> Transponder
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,100
> ----------------
> KNS-81
> 066-04010-0010
> RNAV
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,500
> ----------------
> KR-87
> 066-01072-0000
> Digital ADF receiver
> 8130-3 by Vista - $1,100
> ----------------
> KR-87
> 066-01072-0004
> Digital ADF receiver
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
> ----------------
> KR-87
> 066-01072-0014
> Digital ADF receiver
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
> ----------------
> KLN-89B
> 066-01148-0102
> IFR approach capable GPS receiver
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,100
> Complete System - $1,700
> ----------------
> KA-92
> 071-01553-0200
> GPS antenna TSO'd 26 db gain TNC connector
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $200
> ----------------
> KLN-94
> 069-01034-0101
> Color GPS Rcvr
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,400
> Complete System Available - $3,000
> ----------------
> AA95-732
> NAT audio Panel Low impedance microphone
> 8130-3 by Vista - $1,200
> ----------------
> KY-96A
> 064-01052-0070
> 28V COM
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KY-97A
> 064-01051-0070
> 14V COM
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KG-102A
> 060-00015-0000
> Gyro Mount
> Factory new 8130-3 by Honeywell - $2,850
> ----------------
> FD-112V
> 622-1352-002
> Indicator flight director
> SV condition 2001 tag - $3,000
> ----------------
> KX-125
> 069-01028-1101
> Nav Com
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,400
> ----------------
> KA-131
> 071-01114-0000
> Antenna for KRA-10A
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $350
> -----------------
> KA-138
> 071-01251-0000
> Relay Box
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> KMD-150
> 066-01174-0201
> Multi function display WO/GPS comp sys
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,200
> ----------------
> KX-155
> 069-01024-0005
> NAV/COM 28 volt w/GS
> 8130-3 by Vista - $1,800
> ----------------
> KX-155
> 069-01024-0043 - FM compliant
> 28 volt 760 channel Nav/Com Transceiver with Glideslope
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,250
> FM compliant
> ----------------
> KX-155
> 069-01024-0038
> Nav/Com 14V - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,800
> ----------------
> KX-155
> 069-01024-0035
> Nav/Com G/S 28V
> 8130-3 by Honeywell - $1,700
> ----------------
> KX-155
> 069-01024-0039
> Nav/Com 28V - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,800
> ----------------
> KX-155A
> 069-01032-0101
> NAV com 25 KHZ/ 28V G/S - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,400
> ----------------
> KX-165
> 069-01025-0021
> 14 Volt nav com GS VOR LOC - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,500
> ----------------
> KX-165 - 28 volt
> 066-01025-0025 - FM COMPLIANT
> 760 Channel Nav/Com Transceiver with glideslope.
> OHC by Honeywell fresh 8130-3 + C.O.C.
> with mod-16 - $2,300
> W/O mod-16 Honeywell 8130-3 SV condition - $2,000
> ----------------
> IN-182A
> 066-03084-0032
> Radar Indicator
> 8130-3 by Honeywell - $2,500
> ----------------
> MD-189-1
> HSI Control Switch
> SV Condition W/8130-3 by Vista - $250
> ----------------
> KY-196
> 064-01019-0000
> VHF COM
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,000
> ----------------
> KY-196A
> 064-01054-0030
> VHF Com Transceiver - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,850
> ----------------
> KY-197A
> 064-01053-0030
> COM xcvr - FM COMPLIANT
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,850
> ----------------
> KI-203
> 066-03034-0000
> VOR/ILS indicator with Rectalinear movement
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KI-204
> 066-03034-0002
> VOR/LOC GS ind
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,000
> ----------------
> KI-206
> 066-03034-0005 w/syncro - $1,200
> VOR LOC GS indicator
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C.
> ----------------
> KI-209A
> 066-03056-0011
> VOR/LOC/GS indicator W/GPS display
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $850
> ----------------
> KI-227
> 066-03063-0000 - $350
> 066-03063-0001 - $450 w/Slave
> ADF indicator
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C.
> ----------------
> KI-228
> 066-03059-0001
> Dual pointer ADF indicator slaved
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $650
> ----------------
> KI-229
> 066-03038-0000
> RMI
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 - $2,400
> ----------------
> KI-256
> 060-00017-0000
> Flight Director Horizon Gyro
> Will also work with S-tec System 55 Autopilot system
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,350
> ----------------
> KAS-297
> 065-00046-0000
> Altitude Preselect
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 +C.O.C. - $1,000
> ----------------
> GNC-300XL
> GPS COM - IFR certifiable
> OHC by Garmin - $2,550
> ----------------
> MD-41-324
> GPS Annunciator Unit
> 8130-3 by Vista - $450
> ----------------
> 329B-7A
> 522-3206-008
> Flight director indicator
> OHC W/8130-3 from precision instruments - $2,000
> ----------------
> KEA-346
> 066-03062-0010
> 066-03062-0011
> Encoding altimeter
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $6,000
> ----------------
> KEA-346
> 066-03062-0008
> Encoding altimeter
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $7,000
> ----------------
> RT-359A
> 41420-1114
> Transponder
> 8130-3 by Vista - $600
> ----------------
> GC-362A
> 071-01505-0103
> Graphics computer
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,595
> ----------------
> 1C388
> Radio coupler
> 8130-3 by autopilot central - $450
> ----------------
> KRA-405B
> 066-01153-0101
> Radar altimeter T/R
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $4,695
> ----------------
> RT-459
> 41470-1028
> ARC TXPDR
> 8130-3 by Vista - $695
> ----------------
> CDU-500
> 11555-4
> 11555-7
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,000
> ----------------
> KI-525A
> 066-03046-0001
> HSI W/bootstrap syncro
> OHC with 8130-3 - $1,795
> ----------------
> KI-525A
> 066-03046-0007
> HSI W/Bootstrap syncro
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 - $2,595
> ----------------
> ED-551A
> 066-03137-3100
> 066-03137-3300
> EFIS Display
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $8,400
> ----------------
> KPI-552
> 066-03024-0017
> HSI indicator
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $4,500
> ----------------
> KPI-553A
> 066-03045-0050
> Pictorial NAV indicator
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $5,600
> ----------------
> KFS-564A
> 071-01283-0012
> Digital frequency selector V/Off 28V black
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,725
> ----------------
> KDI-572
> 066-01069-0000
> 066-01069-0001
> DME indicator 14v 28v
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,150
> ----------------
> KFS-599A
> 071-01539-0101
> UHF FQ SEL V/off/T 28V Black
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $2,300
> ----------------
> KNR-620
> 066-01126-0000
> VOR Sensor
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $775
> ----------------
> KNR-634A
> 066-01078-0010
> Nav Rcvr GS/MB/RMI 3 wire
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $6,100
> ----------------
> KA-670
> 071-1361-10
> GPS antenna Amplifier
> SV condition Fresh tag - $500
> ----------------
> KDA-687
February 07, 2002 - February 15, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mi