RV-Archive.digest.vol-mj
February 15, 2002 - February 21, 2002
> 071-01449-0000
> adapter
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> KDA-689
> 071-01227-0001
> ARINC serial 706 adapter
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
> ----------------
> KDA-692
> 071-01217-0001
> Adapter
> OHC by Honeywell - $1,395
> ----------------
> KDM-706A
> 066-01066-0025
> DME 660/EFS-10 Trk Flag
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $3,795
> ----------------
> KXP-750A
> 066-1011-00
> TXPDR
> Vista 8130-3 - $795
> ----------------
> NS-801
> Narco area nav
> 8130-3 by Vista - $795
> ----------------
> COM 811 TSO
> Narco COM
> 8130-3 by Vista - $800
> ----------------
> SC-841A
> 501-1318-01
> Static Converter
> 8130-3 by Goodrich - $1,000
> ----------------
> RS-861A
> 071-01319-0030
> Radar Rt
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $10,000
> ----------------
> IN-862A
> 066-03086-0030
> Radar indicator
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $3,300
> ----------------
> KLN-900
> 066-04034-0104
> GPS DZUS Blk
> BRNAV/ oceanic FDE
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 +C.O.C. - $4,000
> ----------------
> KTR-909
> 064-01065-0100
> UHF Transceiver AM
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $5,000
> ----------------
> GNS-1000
> 30150-03-40
> GNS-Nav
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $1,200
> ----------------
> ART-2000
> 071-01519-0101 with 1 year warranty
> RDR 2000 R/T Unit
> OHC by Honeywell W/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $10,500
> ----------------
> RDR2000
> 071-01519-0101
> 066-03084-0032
> 10" or 12" Antenna plate - Install kits included
> Complete System 8130-3 by Honeywell - $14,500
> ----------------
> ART-2100
> 071-01550-0101
> radar RT unit - 1 year Warranty
> OHC by Honeywell with 8130-3 + C.O.C. - $13,250
> ----------------
> AA2012V
> 071-01549-0200
> Radar Antenna
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> AA2010V
> 071-01549-0100
> Radar Antenna
> OHC by Honeywell w/8130-3 + C.O.C. - $750
> ----------------
> 1U262-042-2
> S3330-2
> DG with heading bug
> Removed from new Cessna a/c with 50 hrs - $1,000
> ----------------
>
>
> ***MISCELLANEOUS BEECH PANELS***
> 35921502 gasket
> 69-324034-19 panel
> 0611371-1 EL panel
> 35-324026-6 panel placard
> 99-364028 circuit board
> 35-324421-9
> 96-324201-7
> 50944045-47 govener plate
> 35-910160-14 doubler
> 50-320177 panel
> 35-324366-5 placard
> 2E1303 spacer
> 35-324026-6 panel placard
> 50-920089-11 boost pump placard
> 50-364252-769 panel placard assy
>
>
> ***********************************
> NEW AND USED AIRCRAFT FOR SALE
> ***********************************
> Specifications and pictures available at www.vistaaviation.com
> ------------
> 1995 Katana
> Great condition
> Call for details
> ------------
> 1977 Aerostar
> Available soon
> Call for details
> ------------
> 1980 Cessna 152
> $21,800
> ------------
> 1974 Cessna 172 Full IFR
> $48,000
> ------------
> 1976 Cessna 172 IFR
> $48,000
> ------------
>
>
> EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES
> Flight Instructor for CPC - Busy - fax resume (818) 896-9541
> Call Bill @ 818 896-6442
> Or Fax @ 818 896-9541
>
> Please see www.vistaaviation.com for complete inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | oshkosh 2001 crash |
Yes, one was a Glasair III. The pilot was a friend named Ben Moyle. Nice
guy, 10 year Glasair pilot, lots of time. Yet he spun-in. Let's not get
complacent out there. Buy an AOA and use it. Having one probably would have
saved Ben's life.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Subject: Fw: RV-List: oshkosh 2001 crash
I'm sorry. The 2nd plane was a GlassAir and there were only 2 aboard the
Bonanza. CRS got me!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oshkosh 2001 crash
There were 3 approach stall spins at Oshkosh. One on 36 was a Giles who
balked at landing on 36 right (a taxiway). The second I thought was an RV
that got too slow in traffic on approach and stall-spun. The last was a
Bonanza that overshot the 27 runway, tightened his turn, and stall-spun and
cartwheeled. The 4 aboard in the Bonanza were lucky and are alive unlike the
first two.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
-======================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
On 15 Feb 2002, at 22:03, Bruce Gray wrote:
> Yes, one was a Glasair III. The pilot was a friend named Ben Moyle.
> Nice guy, 10 year Glasair pilot, lots of time. Yet he spun-in. Let's
> not get complacent out there. Buy an AOA and use it. Having one
> probably would have saved Ben's life.
Aircraft Spruce now has the tab style stall warning unit available for
about $70. Hook it up to a buzzer from Radio Shack and you have
inexpensive audible stall warning. It's worth it. The RV-6 does not
give you much warning before it stalls.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
In a message dated 2/15/02 10:10:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Aircraft Spruce now has the tab style stall warning unit available for
about $70. Hook it up to a buzzer from Radio Shack and you have
inexpensive audible stall warning. It's worth it. The RV-6 does not
give you much warning before it stalls.
Tim >>
There may not be much aerodynamic warning, but the deck angle is pretty
impressive. I figure if the horizon is visible through the windscreen (i.e.
I'm not in a climb), and I'm not in accelerated flight, it ain't gonna
stall...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Vista Aviation inc - Revised February Specials |
Dan,
Check out these tip lights. The tips they are in are the ones you get on the
-7.
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/landlightkit/index.htm
If I was going to do it over, I think I would go for these. If they didn't work
out, one could cover the holes and put the Duckwork lights in later. (The
directions tell you how to install them in an already built wing; not fun but it
could be done).
-drm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
You well might be right but what happens when the engine quits, like stops?
You can still stall-spin your RV-6 at that time. Get too low and slow and
try to stretch the glide just a little too far and whamo, you are looking at
the ground without a chance to recover.
I rather write about it before it happens than afterwards.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning
In a message dated 2/15/02 10:10:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Aircraft Spruce now has the tab style stall warning unit available for
about $70. Hook it up to a buzzer from Radio Shack and you have
inexpensive audible stall warning. It's worth it. The RV-6 does not
give you much warning before it stalls.
Tim >>
There may not be much aerodynamic warning, but the deck angle is pretty
impressive. I figure if the horizon is visible through the windscreen (i.e.
I'm not in a climb), and I'm not in accelerated flight, it ain't gonna
stall...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
Yea, right... get a couple of knots above stall , in a turn to final, throw
in some distractions, tighten the turn up a little, add some bottom or top
rudder, and the only time you'll see the horizon is as it spins by on your
way to digging a deep hole. If this problem was so readily apparent, pilots
wouldn't keep killing themselves.
Spend the 800 bucks and buy an AOA indicator. Ask anyone who's ever flown
with one.
Bruce
Glasair III and yes, it has an AOA.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning
In a message dated 2/15/02 10:10:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Aircraft Spruce now has the tab style stall warning unit available for
about $70. Hook it up to a buzzer from Radio Shack and you have
inexpensive audible stall warning. It's worth it. The RV-6 does not
give you much warning before it stalls.
Tim >>
There may not be much aerodynamic warning, but the deck angle is pretty
impressive. I figure if the horizon is visible through the windscreen (i.e.
I'm not in a climb), and I'm not in accelerated flight, it ain't gonna
stall...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
Bob: Somewhere in the manual, or maybe it was in an old RVator, there was
mention of cutting the flap hinge pins in the middle so that they can be
removed with the wings installed. I did that and it looks like it will work
fine. I used two hinge eyes retained with a screw and nutplate mounted on
the flap brace to retain the pins. If you would be interested in more let me
know.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
He needs to be working on an improved baffle kit . . . .
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ half way through baffles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> Van's is working on an RV-9!
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Experimental Panel Builder |
Hi all...
I just wanted to let you know that I bought a new domain for the
Experimental Panel Builder... I will leave the old site up for a while,
but please make note of the new URL... http://epanelbuilder.com
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
>
> There may not be much aerodynamic warning, but the deck angle is pretty
> impressive. I figure if the horizon is visible through the windscreen
(i.e.
> I'm not in a climb), and I'm not in accelerated flight, it ain't gonna
> stall...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
Kyle,
I have recently looked at the NTSB files and searched for RV accidents to
see what I might find. There were 87 reported accidents and 20 involved
fatalities. IMHO it appears that 10 of those were high AOA associated. I am
not contending that all 10 would not have happened with some AOA indicator,
but even if one or more were saved, it sounds like something to consider.
The good news is that many of the accidents did not even involve serious
injury. A lot of these involved roll overs, cart wheels, etc. Says a lot for
the structure and the low stall speed of the RV's. Less than a quarter
involved fatalities. This ratio was much higher when I looked at Lancairs
and Glassairs.
Bernie Kerr, 6A with AOA, 250 hours, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oshkosh 2001 crash - stall warning |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
> Aircraft Spruce now has the tab style stall warning unit available for
> about $70. Hook it up to a buzzer from Radio Shack and you have
> inexpensive audible stall warning. It's worth it. The RV-6 does not
> give you much warning before it stalls.
>
> Tim
any thought as to how much trouble one of these would be to
install/calibrate? also, what might be the difference between it and the
$200 model?
I'd like to have one of these in my alleged plane, but I'd like to get the
one that works. A properly-adjusted vane-type stall warning device would be
fine with me.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
It you get a message with an attachment from From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
that says... "Take a look to the attachment."
DON'T OPEN IT! It is the badtrans virus
I have received about 1/2 dozen in the last several days. They have NOT
cleaned up their computer even though I have e-mailed them several times.
They are one the RV-list as that is what the header lists...
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> He needs to be working on an improved baffle kit . . . .
Speaking of baffles, go ahead and replace the 3/4 by 3/4 by "too thin" angle
on the right side of the engine with .062" angle. Mine cracked at about 75
hours, others here have also had this one crack.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 89 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Greaves" <dano64(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A empanage and wing for sale... cheap! |
The empanage, w/electric trim option, is 90% complete. The wing kit is
still in the box. Excellent workmanship. Two kits for less than the
price of one!
$2,500
Dan Greaves
Oxford, CT
203-881-9060
dano64(at)snet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Plate nuts
I am installing my baggage Compartment floor with platenuts for a variety of
reasons. (Vans says it's OK) One question I forgot to ask is this:
Do I need as many platenuts as there are rivet holes in the floor? Another
way to ask this question is, Are platenuts stronger or the same as rivets?
What is the maximum spacing for platenuts along a floor rib?
John McDonnell (RV7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
How wide should I make the sawhorses for the RV-7A fuselage? I was planning
48 inches. Will this be enough to allow small wooden blocks on each end to
ensure the fuselage can't be pushed off?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
Finishing fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avionics pictures from the web |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
Try the Southeast aerospace website. They have a complete catalog of
pictures. Right click on the pictures and choose
"Save As".
http://www.seaerospace.com/avionics.htm
--
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | edel clamps: poly tubing & wires |
I have installed a Lift Reserve Indicator probe on the right wing of my
6A. This has two 1/4" polyethylene tubes that go back to the cockpit and
are edel-clamped to the spar. I mounted my OAT probe just aft of the
LRI probe and ran the temp. probe wires back to the cockpit securing
them with the same edel clamps that hold the poly tubing.
It occurred to me, the 1000th time I looked at this, that this might not
be a good practice. The clamps hold the wire pretty tightly against the
poly tubing - I can't slide it - but, is there a chance that vibration
could make it cut into the tubing over a period of years?
Is it generally unwise to try to secure more than one thing with an edel
clamp?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
They are not alone,
Several have sent it to the list but with the attachment stripped. I have
received it personally from 3 different listers. Whatch out guys. That off
list e-mails and auto add to address book can hurt.
Thanks to my McAfee, no problems.
Tim
Bryan Technology
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
It you get a message with an attachment from From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
that says... "Take a look to the attachment."
DON'T OPEN IT! It is the badtrans virus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
How about getting rid of outlook express, fully 99.99 percent of all
virusses I deal with at home and work are send by outlook express !!!
Gert
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> They are not alone,
>
> Several have sent it to the list but with the attachment stripped. I have
> received it personally from 3 different listers. Whatch out guys. That off
> list e-mails and auto add to address book can hurt.
>
> Thanks to my McAfee, no problems.
>
> Tim
> Bryan Technology
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
> It you get a message with an attachment from From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> that says... "Take a look to the attachment."
> DON'T OPEN IT! It is the badtrans virus
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Aeroquip 701 Hose/816 Fittings |
Does anybody have the Van's instruction sheet on these hose assemblies they
could e-mail/fax me (Eaton website was of no help)? I received all my bulk
hose/fittings last night without instructions, and want to get them made up
this weekend.
Thanks,
Rob Acker (RV-6, hoses the last of the FWF stuff)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Hello Listers,
I have decided to consider adding an AOA or (Lift Reserve Indicator) to my
RV before I get too far into wiring and plumbing. I remember (almost
painfully) the big who rah on the list about the two primary LRI guys
selling the product and don't want to re-introduce that. I would like to
know if somebody can provide me with both URL sites so I can look myself and
decide myself which I would be interested in.
If Bill or (sorry I forgot the others name) are on the list, could you pipe
in here with a URL for me?
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 Slider
N616TB registered
Still finishing kit I think at least another 4-6 months.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 701 Hose/816 Fittings |
The instructions are printed on page 118 of my Aircraft Spruce Catalog. 701
is and upgrade to 601.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroquip 701 Hose/816 Fittings
Does anybody have the Van's instruction sheet on these hose assemblies they
could e-mail/fax me (Eaton website was of no help)? I received all my bulk
hose/fittings last night without instructions, and want to get them made up
this weekend.
Thanks,
Rob Acker (RV-6, hoses the last of the FWF stuff)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA Web sites |
I don't know about the LRI but the web site for PSS AOA is
www.angle-of-attack.com
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Its easy to remember the URLs to these websites... or any other web sites
you want:
http://www.Google.com
Type it in there and you can find anything you want.
jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: AOA Web sites
Hello Listers,
I have decided to consider adding an AOA or (Lift Reserve Indicator) to my
RV before I get too far into wiring and plumbing. I remember (almost
painfully) the big who rah on the list about the two primary LRI guys
selling the product and don't want to re-introduce that. I would like to
know if somebody can provide me with both URL sites so I can look myself and
decide myself which I would be interested in.
If Bill or (sorry I forgot the others name) are on the list, could you pipe
in here with a URL for me?
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 Slider
N616TB registered
Still finishing kit I think at least another 4-6 months.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Web sites |
http://www.angle-of-attack.com/
http://www.riteangle.com/
http://www.liftreserve.com/
Knock yourself out.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: AOA Web sites
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have decided to consider adding an AOA or (Lift Reserve Indicator) to my
> RV before I get too far into wiring and plumbing. I remember (almost
> painfully) the big who rah on the list about the two primary LRI guys
> selling the product and don't want to re-introduce that. I would like to
> know if somebody can provide me with both URL sites so I can look myself
and
> decide myself which I would be interested in.
>
> If Bill or (sorry I forgot the others name) are on the list, could you
pipe
> in here with a URL for me?
>
> Thanks
> Tim
> RV-6 Slider
> N616TB registered
> Still finishing kit I think at least another 4-6 months.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Web sites |
Tim,
I just got a newsletter from Proprietary Software Systems, the maker of the
AOA yesterday. They list their website as www.angle-of-attack.com.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Betty" <jbanglin(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacksons
>
> How about getting rid of outlook express, fully 99.99 percent of all
> virusses I deal with at home and work are send by outlook express !!!
>
> Gert
Yeah! This is why I go through so many mail delivery people - if they bring
me bad news I shoot them!
What would you say if I told you that 99.99% of the people on the internet
use Outlook Express? I guess if we got rid of it that would sure stop the
viruses.
Or maybe the loser hackers that make up viruses only know how to use O. E.
Geez.
:-)
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
So what do you recommend that works as well at the same cost?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim & Betty" <jbanglin(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacksons
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacksons
>
> How about getting rid of outlook express, fully 99.99 percent of all
> virusses I deal with at home and work are send by outlook express !!!
>
> Gert
Yeah! This is why I go through so many mail delivery people - if they bring
me bad news I shoot them!
What would you say if I told you that 99.99% of the people on the internet
use Outlook Express? I guess if we got rid of it that would sure stop the
viruses.
Or maybe the loser hackers that make up viruses only know how to use O. E.
Geez.
:-)
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Well Cy
Netscape for windows is free, got almost no viruses recieved originating
from Netscape without the sender knowing it.
Linux is free, I believe there are only 2 known/popular viruses for
linux ( I guess I will eat crow on this one ;-)
Netscape is available for linux, for free.
Just to name a few alternatives.
At my work we have switched all internet connected computers to linux
and netscape for linux. Our problems went down to zip, nada, nothing as
far as viruses are concerned. microsoft based viruses just don't run on
linux.
Problem with Outlook Express is that out of the box it is wide open. All
these gizmo's bells and whistles microsoft tries to add only agrevate
the problems.
At my home computer, running NT, I use a product called ZoneAlarm, (also
for free, appeals to my dutch genes) it is a miniature firewall which
checks all incoming *AND* outgoing tcp/ip messages. I was quite amazed
at the number on microsoft programs trying to send something, don't know
what, out on the net without my permission. ZoneAlarm blocks access for
these programs permanetly if you so desire, by the way, did I tell you
yet it is free.
So, there are quite a few alternatives out there, which are less prone
to send email without prior knowledge of the owner.
Gert
By the way, just a thought for people using PC Anywhere on their
computer, please, please, make sure you have yours password protected.
If not, somebody can quite easily gain access to your computer without
you knowing it, PC Anywhere can broadcast invitations to come and play
as soon as you make an internet connection. Without password *anybody*
can come and play with your computer !! A friend of mine found this
AFTER he installed ZoneAlarm. There are sniffers out targeting such PC
Anywhere beacons.
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> So what do you recommend that works as well at the same cost?
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim & Betty" <jbanglin(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacksons
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacksons
>
> >
> > How about getting rid of outlook express, fully 99.99 percent of all
> > virusses I deal with at home and work are send by outlook express !!!
> >
> > Gert
>
> Yeah! This is why I go through so many mail delivery people - if they bring
> me bad news I shoot them!
> What would you say if I told you that 99.99% of the people on the internet
> use Outlook Express? I guess if we got rid of it that would sure stop the
> viruses.
> Or maybe the loser hackers that make up viruses only know how to use O. E.
> Geez.
> :-)
> Jim
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
I used platenuts wherever there was to be a rivet. I actually used dimpled
platenuts to allow me to have a flat floor.
It looks great and was not much additional effort after deciding on doing
the platenut thing in the first place.
Photos if you want them - contact me directly.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR
Richardson, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Platenuts
>
> Re: Plate nuts
>
> I am installing my baggage Compartment floor with platenuts for a variety
of
> reasons. (Vans says it's OK) One question I forgot to ask is this:
>
> Do I need as many platenuts as there are rivet holes in the floor?
Another
> way to ask this question is, Are platenuts stronger or the same as rivets?
>
> What is the maximum spacing for platenuts along a floor rib?
>
> John McDonnell (RV7A)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS ANTENNA COAX |
Listers
I have a RV-6A with a tip up canopy. I want to put my GPS antenna on top
of the glare shield. I would like to know what would be the best way to run
the coax cable.
When you raise the canopy, there has to be some slack in the coax to allow
the canopy to come up. I have a GARMIN 150 XL GPS.
Thanks
Jerry (working on wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowl Priming? |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I would prime & at least seal the inside of the cowl so grease can be
cleaned off.
I left my airbox & baffling naked.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
On Sat, 16 Feb 2002 21:00:20 GMT bertrv6(at)juno.com writes:
> I started working on the cowling, and have
> a question for those already finished with this
> or at same stage as I am..
>
> Should I prime the inside of the cowling &
> also pait it? I guess the paint and priming should hold at high
> teperatures no?> Any brands and or ideas on this?
> > What have other member do...
> > And finally how about the Air box same questions
> > Thanks for your suggestions
> > bert
> > rv6a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Stall warning vane location |
On 16 Feb 2002, at 8:30, Robert Dickson wrote:
> any thought as to how much trouble one of these would be to
> install/calibrate?
My experience locating a reasonable spot is documented at
http://www.geocities.com/TimRV6A/stall.htm. It turns out a little bit
of trial and error was involved, but it was easy to fabricate a slightly
larger cover plate that hid the holes I drilled trying locations that didn't
work out. The "hole hiding" cover plate is only slightly larger than
the original cover plate.
>A properly-adjusted vane-type
> stall warning device would be fine with me.
I agree. The vane type is inexpensive, reliable, and supports a clear
audio stall warning for very little investment.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
dear listers
i'm having a problem with the electric tach and or tach driver i got from
vans. this is the 2nd set of the combination i have tried and getting the
same results. i tried putting a drill on the square cable to turn the tach
driver, but the tach still doesn't register any rpms. i fiqured a drill would
be about 5-9 hundred rps. so i tried a dremil about 25k rpms, still no
registering on the gauge. i have double checked the wiring, and continuity
between the componets, and they check good. how else can i check this set up?
oh yeah , i tried the drill both ways.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: continentail 65 hp |
i have a friend that has a 0 time rebuilt 65 hp continental engine. he
rebuilt it himself and is an A&P. he wants 8k for it. if interested let me
know off list.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
>
> I am getting attachments from the list from rick Joy & Jay & SCott
> Jackson & me.
>
> I delete all of them. someone is picking them up & sending them back out
> so they look like they come from the list.
They are full of virus. Do not open attachments. Symantec/Norton does not
pick them up in the initial scan.
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
I did the "cut hinge pin in half, insert in two pieces from centre" mod
myself. It works fine - until the top wings skins are on and the wings are
on the fuselage. Then I find it quite difficult to get into the gap
around the curved forward section of the flap to install the hinge pin. No,
my fingers are not especially fat, it's just they're not 8 inches long! My
hinge is set so that max reasonable flap movement is about 60 degs or so. If
the flap when it 90 digs this would make things a lot easier but the wing
flap gap would have to be much larger (and uglier).
Has anyone come up with a clever tool or gadget to assist with this job? I
know it should be a one time only task in most cases, but installing and
getting a good safety wire job on the hinge pin ends is an important one.
Perhaps doing this is just to get you ready for doing the lower AN3- spar
bolts on a -6A through the gear mounts, some of you will know what I mean..
The "drill hole in aileron bracket" solution is looking a bit more
attractive to me now. But then how do you get the hinge pin end through the
hole if there is a bend in it for safetying purposes. I guess simply not -
with a bit of safety wire through the hinge being the safety method.
Jim Oke
RV-3
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
> Bob: Somewhere in the manual, or maybe it was in an old RVator, there
was
> mention of cutting the flap hinge pins in the middle so that they can be
> removed with the wings installed. I did that and it looks like it will
work
> fine. I used two hinge eyes retained with a screw and nutplate mounted on
> the flap brace to retain the pins. If you would be interested in more let
me
> know.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
Hello Jim,
I decided to go with the "hole in the aileron bracket".
I drilled the hole slightly (1/8") off center of alignment with the hinge
line. This allows installation and removal but stops vibration from allowing
the pin back past the aileron bracket. I will add additional safety wire
hinge pin securement on final assembly to stop the pin from walking toward
the fuse or toward the aileron bracket for that matter.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> I did the "cut hinge pin in half, insert in two pieces from centre" mod
> The "drill hole in aileron bracket" solution is looking a bit more
> attractive to me now. But then how do you get the hinge pin end through
the
> hole if there is a bend in it for safetying purposes. I guess simply not -
> with a bit of safety wire through the hinge being the safety method.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-3
> RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
The reason this angle cracks is not because it is to thin, it is because you are
anchoring both cylinders together and defeating the slip joint in the baffle
which is not a good thing.. I have been told the the cylinders move upwards of
0.060" or more from warm to cold. If the angle is riveted to the rear side only
and allowed to float over the front it will never crack and also allow free
movement of the cylinders. It is there on the 6 and maybe 8 only to keep the
side from bulging out due to air pressure.
Gary Zilik
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> > He needs to be working on an improved baffle kit . . . .
>
> Speaking of baffles, go ahead and replace the 3/4 by 3/4 by "too thin" angle
> on the right side of the engine with .062" angle. Mine cracked at about 75
> hours, others here have also had this one crack.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 89 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
You've tried everything, but have you checked that it is indeed getting 12V and
has an adequate ground?
Gary
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> dear listers
> i'm having a problem with the electric tach and or tach driver i got from
> vans. this is the 2nd set of the combination i have tried and getting the
> same results. i tried putting a drill on the square cable to turn the tach
> driver, but the tach still doesn't register any rpms. i fiqured a drill would
> be about 5-9 hundred rps. so i tried a dremil about 25k rpms, still no
> registering on the gauge. i have double checked the wiring, and continuity
> between the componets, and they check good. how else can i check this set up?
> oh yeah , i tried the drill both ways.
> scott
> tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
thanks for replying gary
i have all my vans gauges connected to the ground in a series line ,
grounding all at once. same with the ignition terminal. jumps from 1 gauge to
the others. all the other gauges are working. i took a continuity checker (
tone only ) and get a tone between the ig & the ground when the master switch
is off. it goes away when i switch it on. the only other terminal is the S,
which is sender from the tach driver. i'm stumped. like i said, i've changed
both componets out and get the same results.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Experimental Panel Builder |
By default, the Panel Builder will save the last panel you built... You
can close your browser, and when you return to the site, your previously
built panel will be displayed... The only other thing you can save a
panel this time is as an image...
- Build your panel, it's best to do this with your browser set to full
screen...
- Once you have your panel built, hit the Print Screen key on your
keyboard...
- Open your Paint program, Start-> Programs-> Accessories-> Paint...
- Click on Edit-> Paste...
You should be able to do this what any graphics program...
Please refer to the instructions for more tips on using the Panel
Builder-> http://epanelbuilder.com/inst.htm
If you build some cool panels, please send them to me at
bill(at)vondane.com! I plan to add a page of sample panels that have been
built with the panel Builder...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard D.
Fogerson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Experimental Panel Builder
-->
Bill thanks for this great service. Is there any way to save panels
that you make up. I tried "save as" and it didn't work.
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
you know that I bought a new domain for the
> Experimental Panel Builder... I will leave the old site up for a
> while, but please make note of the new URL...
> http://epanelbuilder.com
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
Have you checked the battery voltage at the guage? Fuse/breaker defective?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
>
> dear listers
> i'm having a problem with the electric tach and or tach driver i got from
> vans. this is the 2nd set of the combination i have tried and getting the
> same results. i tried putting a drill on the square cable to turn the tach
> driver, but the tach still doesn't register any rpms. i fiqured a drill
would
> be about 5-9 hundred rps. so i tried a dremil about 25k rpms, still no
> registering on the gauge. i have double checked the wiring, and continuity
> between the componets, and they check good. how else can i check this set
up?
> oh yeah , i tried the drill both ways.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
I used a DPDT switch for my right mag. The second set of contacts is used
for tach selection from either right or left mag. When the right mag is off
(starting, run-up check of left mag) the tach gets its signal from the left
mag. When the right mag is on (normal running, run-up check of right mag)
the tach gets its signal from the right mag. I havent tried it yet in
practice but it should work fine.
Curt
>
> Can the EIS be wired in a manner that permits the viewing of the RPM
> drop while each mag is checked without installing a selector switch
> (other than the mag selector)?
>
> As currently wired, I can view the drop in RPM when checking one mag but
> when the other mag is checked, I get no RPM reading. I simply listen to
> determine if the mag is functioning properly.
>
> I currently have Electroaire installed in place of one mag but I can
> check the drop on only one and then listen to check the other.
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
> -6A flying past 430 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl Priming? |
I recommend filling the inside of the cowl as the outside (you probably
don't have to make it as pretty though :-) Prime it and paint it. Will
make it easier to keep clean, but more importantly will prevent oil from
seeping in, potentially causing problems later on down the line.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
I just added a SPST switch between the mags and the EIS... I can then
select which mag I want to take the RPM reading from...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
Subject: Re: RV-List: EIS
I used a DPDT switch for my right mag. The second set of contacts is
used for tach selection from either right or left mag. When the right
mag is off (starting, run-up check of left mag) the tach gets its signal
from the left mag. When the right mag is on (normal running, run-up
check of right mag) the tach gets its signal from the right mag. I
havent tried it yet in practice but it should work fine.
Curt
>
> Can the EIS be wired in a manner that permits the viewing of the RPM
> drop while each mag is checked without installing a selector switch
> (other than the mag selector)?
>
> As currently wired, I can view the drop in RPM when checking one mag
> but when the other mag is checked, I get no RPM reading. I simply
> listen to determine if the mag is functioning properly.
>
> I currently have Electroaire installed in place of one mag but I can
> check the drop on only one and then listen to check the other.
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
> -6A flying past 430 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Mary Mc Phee" <jmemcphee(at)xtra.co.nz> |
MT Propellor Hi Folks,
> I have not been on the list for years.
>
> Is there anybody out there who has fitted / retrofitted an MT propeller,
> preferably an electric one. I am trying to gauge the difference in
> performance from fixed pitch before ordering. Also, any problems?
>
> Please reply to jmemcphee(at)xtra.co.nz
>
> Regards
>
> James Mc Phee (New Zealand)
>
> RV6-20334
>
> ZK MRV (480 Hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
Scott,
If it is like my UMA tach you need 12 V
to make it work. The sender is a pulse counter.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David White" <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental Panel Builder |
Bill: How accurate are the panel's built? Are the dimensions of the blank
panel, and the various instruments, etc. in relatively accurate relationship
to the panel?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
; "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Subject: RE: RV-List: Experimental Panel Builder
>
> By default, the Panel Builder will save the last panel you built... You
> can close your browser, and when you return to the site, your previously
> built panel will be displayed... The only other thing you can save a
> panel this time is as an image...
>
> - Build your panel, it's best to do this with your browser set to full
> screen...
> - Once you have your panel built, hit the Print Screen key on your
> keyboard...
> - Open your Paint program, Start-> Programs-> Accessories-> Paint...
> - Click on Edit-> Paste...
> You should be able to do this what any graphics program...
>
> Please refer to the instructions for more tips on using the Panel
> Builder-> http://epanelbuilder.com/inst.htm
>
> If you build some cool panels, please send them to me at
> bill(at)vondane.com! I plan to add a page of sample panels that have been
> built with the panel Builder...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard D.
> Fogerson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Experimental Panel Builder
>
>
> -->
>
> Bill thanks for this great service. Is there any way to save panels
> that you make up. I tried "save as" and it didn't work.
>
> Thanks, Rick Fogerson
>
> you know that I bought a new domain for the
> > Experimental Panel Builder... I will leave the old site up for a
> > while, but please make note of the new URL...
> > http://epanelbuilder.com
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > Colorado Springs, CO
> > RV-8A - N8WV
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
stewart
i assume it gets its 14volts from the ground terminal and the ign terminal?
if so i have power to it.
although the engine is not running, simulating with a drill hooked up to the
cable should work right?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
Why not check for voltage with a meter? You may not have any! Wrong
terminal??
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
stewart
i assume it gets its 14volts from the ground terminal and the ign terminal?
if so i have power to it.
although the engine is not running, simulating with a drill hooked up to the
cable should work right?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Experimental Panel Builder |
David... I feel they are VERY accurate, I used it to plan and build my
panel, at it was right on... That said, [here's the disclaimer] This
Experimental Panel Builder is for entertainment purposes only! Although
I try to ensure the panel and instrument sizes are correct,
I cannot, and do not, guarantee anything...
Have fun...
-Bill
http://epanelbuilder.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David White
Subject: Re: RV-List: Experimental Panel Builder
Bill: How accurate are the panel's built? Are the dimensions of the
blank
panel, and the various instruments, etc. in relatively accurate
relationship to the panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Gary, you might be right, but based upon where the crack was, I think the
mode that cracked mine was lateral flexing. That right side is not too
sturdy laterally, and my original (as well as the replacement thicker one)
had a good clearance hole for the forward bolt. The pressure pulses from
the prop probably flex this side in and out. Vibration analysis is a very
difficult thing to nail down.
Alex Peterson
> The reason this angle cracks is not because it is to thin, it is because
you are
> anchoring both cylinders together and defeating the slip joint in the
baffle
> which is not a good thing.. I have been told the the cylinders move
upwards of
> 0.060" or more from warm to cold. If the angle is riveted to the rear
side only
> and allowed to float over the front it will never crack and also allow
free
> movement of the cylinders. It is there on the 6 and maybe 8 only to keep
the
> side from bulging out due to air pressure.
>
> Gary Zilik
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >
> > > He needs to be working on an improved baffle kit . . . .
> >
> > Speaking of baffles, go ahead and replace the 3/4 by 3/4 by "too thin"
angle
> > on the right side of the engine with .062" angle. Mine cracked at about
75
> > hours, others here have also had this one crack.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > 6A N66AP flying 89 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
If you recall, I was planning to remove my vac gyro installation after the
attitude indicator went south. Well, just out of curiosity, I adjusted the
vacuum regulator yesterday to see what, if anything, would happen. I
increased the vacuum from 5.0" to 6.0". Amazing. Gyro no longer tumbles,
even after some thrashing about in steep turns. So, it would appear that
the gyro is still not totally healthy, since it needs more suction to stay
spun up and functional, but it's not dead either. Now, I'll probably keep
it in the airplane and see how long it goes until it totally dies. Just out
of curiosity sake. Again, I don't use it for IFR operations, which is why
I'll not replace it when it takes it's final breath. The new, solid-state
attitude systems out there (thanks listers!) have opened my eyes to the
future of maintaining aircraft control in the soup! The Blue Mountain
system is awesome, but too pricey for me. The system based on a PDA looks
really cool. I might look into that one for the future. An iPaq mounted
right where the AH and DG are would fit perfectly and offer all the other
neato stuff typical of PDA's.
Fly safely folks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david.keck(at)amd.com.amdint2.amd.com.with.ESMTP.id.JAA09139.for (8.9.3/8.9.3/AMD) |
| Subject: | RV-7/7A RC model Kit |
I just came across this RV-7 RC scale model kit and thought some of you may be
interested:
http://www.hobbyhangar.com/test/new.htm
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
That's my thoughts too. Make sure buss is turned on that feeds tach and
fuse/breaker is good. Positive meter probe to the "I" stud and negative
probe to the "G" stud. If no reading on meter, place the negative probe on
bare metal airframe. If there is a reading then...it's an open ground. Of
course, all wires need to be on the proper studs.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
>
> Why not check for voltage with a meter? You may not have any! Wrong
> terminal??
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
>
>
> stewart
> i assume it gets its 14volts from the ground terminal and the ign
terminal?
> if so i have power to it.
>
> although the engine is not running, simulating with a drill hooked up to
the
> cable should work right?
>
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Experimental Panel Builder |
Bill,
One thing I've noticed is that the EI UBG-16 is larger than all the
other
2 1/4" instruments. That said, it's a great tool and entertaining to
boot.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
David... I feel they are VERY accurate, I used it to plan and build my
panel, at it was right on... That said, [here's the disclaimer] This
Experimental Panel Builder is for entertainment purposes only! Although
I try to ensure the panel and instrument sizes are correct,
I cannot, and do not, guarantee anything...
Have fun...
-Bill
http://epanelbuilder.com
Bill: How accurate are the panel's built? Are the dimensions of the
blank
panel, and the various instruments, etc. in relatively accurate
relationship to the panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
ok i have 14 volts, still no rpm reading.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi
Vans recomends to drill a hole in the Lower fuz skin and insert the hinge
pin into it to locate the gear leg fairing
doesnt this hole wear after time?
Is it realy nessesary to locate the fairing this way?
has anyone else got a better idea?
Dave T
RV6 finishing touches before painting
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | sell terra radio |
i have terra nav/com with the trinav digital head. all mounted in one
compact tray.
was refurbished by avionics shop at a cost of 400 dollars , invoice with it.
origionally in rv4 but swapped out for new radios.
model TXN 960 TRI-NAV
sell 800 dollars insured and delivered. located in las vegas
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Belated List of Contributors #2... |
Dear Listers,
I'd like to apologize for the delay in posting the 2001 List of
Contributors Number 2, as well as getting behind in the List Photo
Shares. Here's my sad story... Over the Christmas holidays, I was working
out in the shop on a rotating drum sander. I was sanding out the woofer
hole in a speaker enclosure and, long story short, the part got away from
me and started spinning like a Hula hoop on the drum. Rather than just
turning the machine off like I should have done, I tried to grab the part
and in the process badly broke the ring fingers on *both* my right and left
hands!! I had to go in for surgery on the left hand because of the joint
damage and was stuck in a thing called an "external fixator" for almost 4
weeks. The right hand has healed up well, but the left one is very stiff
and I'm currently only getting about 70 degrees of bend. The doctor says
that I will get 80-90% of the moment back with a great deal of therapy and
I'm going to hold them to that...
The moral of the story is that even a sander can be a dangerous tool. I
had been working with a table saw, drill press, scroll saw, and high power
routers all day long and afforded them all the respect they deserved. But
with the sander, I never even thought about how things could go bad. It
just didn't seem like a dangerous tool. Be careful out there in the
shop. In a moment you can hurt yourself; hurt yourself in such a way that
you will have to live with the damage the rest of your life. Nothing is
worth that.
I'm finally back working on the computer and getting back to email and
other stuff. Later today I will be processing the mound of Photo Shares
that have backed up while I was out. I also just finished up the 2001 List
Contributions and have included the List Number 2 below.
I want to thank everyone that has so generously contributed to the List
this past year! It is your Contributions that make these Lists possible.
I understand that the Van's Videos from the Builder's Bookstore should be
shipping very soon if not already, and the discount coupons from Brown
Tools should already have arrived. Thanks again to Andy Gold and Michael
Brown for their generous support of the Lists this year with these giveaways!
Oh, and now that my fingers are working pretty well again, I've decided to
go ahead and finish my RV-4!! I had a LOT of guilt over wanting to sell
it... :-)
Happy Building and Flying!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Alexander, Don
Alexander, George
Andrews, Jim
Anonymous
Blake, James
Bowman, John
Buryl, Hill
Butler, Sherman
Cantrell, Jimmy
DeRuiter, Marcel
Deffner, David
Graumlich, Tom
Griffin, Randy
Harbour, Keith
Hunt, Robin
Jannon, Terence
Johnson, Jackie
Kahn, Steve
Labhart, Norm
Laird, David
Larson, Joe
Licking, Larry
Maynard, Brad
Navratil, Richard
Noonan, Thomas
Petersen, Paul
Reed, Gary
Rogers, Ken
Salter, Phillip
Schmit, John
Schultz, David
Sheffield, Ray
Smith, Edmond
Staley, Dick
Utterback, Tom
Uvanni, Bruce
Williams, Henry
Wilson, Robert
Woodward, Don
Worthington, Victor
Zirges, Malcom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Haan ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Haan
Subject: New WigWag II
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bhaan@easystreet.com.02.17.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Belated List of Contributors #2... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Belated List of Contributors #2...
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'd like to apologize for the delay in posting the 2001 List of
> Contributors Number 2, as well as getting behind in the List Photo
> Shares. Here's my sad story... Over the Christmas holidays, I was
working
> out in the shop on a rotating drum sander. I was sanding out the woofer
> hole in a speaker enclosure and, long story short, the part got away from
> me and started spinning like a Hula hoop on the drum. Rather than just
> turning the machine off like I should have done, I tried to grab the part
> and in the process badly broke the ring fingers on *both* my right and
left
> hands!! I had to go in for surgery on the left hand because of the joint
> damage and was stuck in a thing called an "external fixator" for almost 4
> weeks. The right hand has healed up well, but the left one is very stiff
> and I'm currently only getting about 70 degrees of bend. The doctor says
> that I will get 80-90% of the moment back with a great deal of therapy and
> I'm going to hold them to that...
>
> The moral of the story is that even a sander can be a dangerous tool. I
> had been working with a table saw, drill press, scroll saw, and high power
> routers all day long and afforded them all the respect they deserved. But
> with the sander, I never even thought about how things could go bad. It
> just didn't seem like a dangerous tool. Be careful out there in the
> shop. In a moment you can hurt yourself; hurt yourself in such a way that
> you will have to live with the damage the rest of your life. Nothing is
> worth that.
>
> I'm finally back working on the computer and getting back to email and
> other stuff. Later today I will be processing the mound of Photo Shares
> that have backed up while I was out. I also just finished up the 2001
List
> Contributions and have included the List Number 2 below.
>
> I want to thank everyone that has so generously contributed to the List
> this past year! It is your Contributions that make these Lists possible.
>
> I understand that the Van's Videos from the Builder's Bookstore should be
> shipping very soon if not already, and the discount coupons from Brown
> Tools should already have arrived. Thanks again to Andy Gold and Michael
> Brown for their generous support of the Lists this year with these
giveaways!
>
> Oh, and now that my fingers are working pretty well again, I've decided to
> go ahead and finish my RV-4!! I had a LOT of guilt over wanting to sell
> it... :-)
>
> Happy Building and Flying!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Administrator
>
>
> Alexander, Don
> Alexander, George
> Andrews, Jim
> Anonymous
> Blake, James
> Bowman, John
> Buryl, Hill
> Butler, Sherman
> Cantrell, Jimmy
> DeRuiter, Marcel
> Deffner, David
> Graumlich, Tom
> Griffin, Randy
> Harbour, Keith
> Hunt, Robin
> Jannon, Terence
> Johnson, Jackie
> Kahn, Steve
> Labhart, Norm
> Laird, David
> Larson, Joe
> Licking, Larry
> Maynard, Brad
> Navratil, Richard
> Noonan, Thomas
> Petersen, Paul
> Reed, Gary
> Rogers, Ken
> Salter, Phillip
> Schmit, John
> Schultz, David
> Sheffield, Ray
> Smith, Edmond
> Staley, Dick
> Utterback, Tom
> Uvanni, Bruce
> Williams, Henry
> Wilson, Robert
> Woodward, Don
> Worthington, Victor
> Zirges, Malcom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Belated List of Contributors #2... |
Dear Matt,
We have never met in person, but I am truly sorry to hear about your
accident and hope things improve drastically for you!
For the last couple of days I wanted to ask you if your RV-4 is still
available? Well, now I have to find out it is not for sale anymore.
Actually, I am glad it is not, as I hope your List-friends pounded some
sense back into your brain. I am glad you felt guilty about selling this
fine machine of yours.
Finish it and show it to the world by flying it!
Keep your spirit up!
Sincerely,
Konrad Werner
ABQ, NM
> Oh, and now that my fingers are working pretty well again, I've decided to
> go ahead and finish my RV-4!! I had a LOT of guilt over wanting to sell
> it... :-)
>
> Happy Building and Flying!
>
> Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: RV-6/A empanage and wing for sale... cheap! |
If you still have it, consider it sold.......
I can pick it up as soon as this week.........
steve..
Exbuilders.com
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Daniel Greaves"
The empanage, w/electric trim option, is 90% complete. The wing kit is
still in the box. Excellent workmanship. Two kits for less than the
price of one!
$2,500
Dan Greaves
Oxford, CT
203-881-9060
dano64(at)snet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
Scott,
After reading your comments about trying out your Van's tachometer, I
got mine out of the box (almost ready to instal), connected it up the
sensor to the meter and battery (battery low at 11.6V)per Van's
diagram. Connected my cordless drill to the cable. In either forward or
reverse, the meter responds to the drill up to 2000 rpm in high speed
and 500 rpm on low speed.
I would suggest that either you do not have the correct connections
between the sensor and meter or that your power is not connected (or
reversed).
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finish
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> stewart
> i assume it gets its 14volts from the ground terminal and the ign terminal?
> if so i have power to it.
>
> although the engine is not running, simulating with a drill hooked up to the
> cable should work right?
>
> scott
> tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leg Fairings |
My fiberglass gear leg failings are held in place by a hose clamp at the top.
the bottom is held in place with the fiberglass cuff. The cuffs keep it
aligned with the wind the clamp keeps it from sliding up and down.
Gary
DJ & LM Tennant wrote:
>
> Hi
> Vans recomends to drill a hole in the Lower fuz skin and insert the hinge
> pin into it to locate the gear leg fairing
> doesnt this hole wear after time?
> Is it realy nessesary to locate the fairing this way?
> has anyone else got a better idea?
>
> Dave T
> RV6 finishing touches before painting
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Reuterskiold ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Reuterskiold
Subject: RV7 Bag-Parts Database
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mtnflyr@attglobal.net.02.17.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ JT Garner ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: JT Garner
Subject: Landing Light Hole
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jtgarner@shentel.net.02.17.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Lawliss" <ARG1(at)capital.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B |
Anyone have a copy they would like to share? Or maybe there's a listing
available on the web somewhere?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | vans electric tach |
Ign terminal? Does that mean it needs a pulse from the "P" lead? Why would
an electric tach have an ign. terminal?
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
stewart
i assume it gets its 14volts from the ground terminal and the ign terminal?
if so i have power to it.
although the engine is not running, simulating with a drill hooked up to the
cable should work right?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B |
James,
Take a look at this Web page, it should help.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 Flaps
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lawliss <ARG1(at)capital.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
>
> Anyone have a copy they would like to share? Or maybe there's a listing
> available on the web somewhere?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)megsinet.net> |
I just bought a used directional gyro on ebay. Does anyone know of anyway
to test its functionality short of just sending it out for overhaul? I
thought I read somewhere where you can just take a shop vac and attach it to
the back to get the gyro going... Can that be true? Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 Kenosha, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
>
> James,
> Take a look at this Web page, it should help.
>
> http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
>
>
> Ross Scroggs
> Conyers, Ga.
> RV-4 Flaps
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James Lawliss <ARG1(at)capital.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
>
>
> >
> > Anyone have a copy they would like to share? Or maybe there's a listing
> > available on the web somewhere?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV-List ,
"vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com"
What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
benders all I need?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Starting RV7A wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
Scott:
The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the tach drive cable that
you're spinning with your drill didn't pick up the square hole in the rpm
transmitter. The two will still screw together, but just not quite as far.
By holding the two partly assembled and then turning the engine end of the
tach cable, you should be able to feel it slip into the square hole.
Perhaps you could undo the cable at the transmitter and (gently) spin the
square socket part of the transmitter with a square-shaped objectchucked in
your drill....
The transmitter has three wires; I think they were power, ground and signal.
Are they all connected to the back of the rpm gauge?
Keeping m'fingers crossed for ya'
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vans electric tach
>
> ok i have 14 volts, still no rpm reading.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tubing benders? |
Purchase a tubing bender. The springs didn't work very well in my hands.
DCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
;
Subject: RV-List: Tubing benders?
>
> What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
> Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
> benders all I need?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> Starting RV7A wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Hi Bobby,
Check with your local EAA Chapter. Some (like Chapter 18 in Milwaukee) allow
you to borrow seldom used tools instead of having to buy one. If your
chapter doesn't have a tool crib, why not get some members to donate a few
tools to start one.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
benders all I need?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | vans electric tach |
Ign terminal? Does that mean it needs a pulse from the "P" lead? Why
would
an electric tach have an ign. terminal?
Ed
Ign terminal simply means an ignition switched power source. They use an
isolated source of signal (transducer) to supply tach info..
Steve
exbuilders.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Hi Bobby,
Check with your local EAA Chapter. Some (like Chapter 18 in Milwaukee)
allow
you to borrow seldom used tools instead of having to buy one. If your
chapter doesn't have a tool crib, why not get some members to donate a
few
tools to start one.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
benders all I need?
The spring benders work ok ..but for tight stuff try packing
tubing full of sand then have at it.
Steve
exbuilders.com
________________________________________________________________________________
OK guys, I know you are an opinionated bunch so let's hear some opinions on
this:
I have been trying to decide on a powerplant for my RV7A. Looked at Bart's
engines, rebuilds from various sources, Sabaru, new Lycoming from Vans, and
the Superior EXP 360. For various reasons, which I don't want to rehash, I
narrowed my choices to new Lyc from Vans or the EXP 360.
The EXP360 seems to offer some improvements over the Lycoming, and Superior
has a great reputation for replacement parts. What was holding me back on
the EXP was its newness. I was ready to take the tried and true safe route
with the Lycoming then I stumbled on some new information.
Reliable sources told me that Vans will most likely offer the EXP360 as an
option in the near future. The same source told me that certification is
expected this year. The fact that Van seems ready to give his "blessing" to
the EXP360 and the prospect of having a certified engine which is an
improvement over the Lycoming has me leaning toward the EXP 360
Your opinions please: If you were limited to a new fuel injected Lycoming
360 from Vans or the EXP injected 360 which would you choose and why?
I have found this list to be an excellent source of knowledge and of
inestimable help to this inexperienced builder. Thanks in advance
John McDonnell RV7A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7/7A RC model Kit |
"8.9.3/8.9.3/AMD" wrote:
>
> I just came across this RV-7 RC scale model kit and thought some of you may be
interested:
> http://www.hobbyhangar.com/test/new.htm
Nice model... But not till I get my full scale version done!
Dan Masys
-7A fuse N747DL reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leg Fairings |
> Vans recomends to drill a hole in the Lower fuz skin and insert the hinge
> pin into it to locate the gear leg fairing
> doesnt this hole wear after time?
There are other ways but that one works. A trick to keep it from wallowing
out the hole is to install a nut plate over it. The pin sure won't wallow
out a nut plate! Due to the angle of the pin, a larger dia. hole in the
nutplate than that of the pin will be needed -- I think I used a #10, and
ground down the height of the nutplate some too.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I'd go with the XP-360, no brainer for me. Superior has an outstanding
reputation (better than Lycoming's in my experience) and almost every
part in the XP 360 is already approved and flying on thousands of
certified aircraft around the world. I believe the crankcase was the
only new thing they needed to make to put together a complete engine.
Can't really imagine there'd be any big problems with it. Superior
basically took Lycomings design and improved on each part where possible.
A much better engine IMHO...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fitting canopy frame...going with an overhauled Lycosaur cuz I
can't afford an XP-360....
------------
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP360
OK guys, I know you are an opinionated bunch so let's hear some opinions
on
this:
Your opinions please: If you were limited to a new fuel injected
Lycoming
360 from Vans or the EXP injected 360 which would you choose and why?
John McDonnell RV7A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Curley" <mjcurley1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tubing benders? |
>
> What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
> Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
> benders all I need?
>
> The spring benders work ok ..but for tight stuff try packing
> tubing full of sand then have at it.
>
I've used the sand trick and it works, but even better than sand is common
table salt. Be sure to flush it out well when finished. Still, I would
recommend purchasing the tubing benders as they do such a nice looking job.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Mike,
We took ours to a local Avionics shop and they spun it up and confirmed that
it was working.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)megsinet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: testing DG
>Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:13:17 -0600
>
>
>I just bought a used directional gyro on ebay. Does anyone know of anyway
>to test its functionality short of just sending it out for overhaul? I
>thought I read somewhere where you can just take a shop vac and attach it
>to
>the back to get the gyro going... Can that be true? Thanks,
>
>Mike Sices
>RV8 Kenosha, WI
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)mediaone.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
>
>
> >
> > James,
> > Take a look at this Web page, it should help.
> >
> > http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
> >
> >
> > Ross Scroggs
> > Conyers, Ga.
> > RV-4 Flaps
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: James Lawliss <ARG1(at)capital.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Anyone have a copy they would like to share? Or maybe there's a
>listing
> > > available on the web somewhere?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Suprior XP360 |
> Reliable sources told me that Vans will most likely offer the EXP360 as an
> option in the near future. The same source told me that certification is
> expected this year. The fact that Van seems ready to give his "blessing" to
> the EXP360 and the prospect of having a certified engine which is an
> improvement over the Lycoming has me leaning toward the EXP 360
Here's the text of a letter sent to support@vans with a response from Tom
Green. I sent this off about 2 weeks ago.
----
> I'm wondering if Van's would care to comment on the XP-360 experimental
> engine from Superior Air Parts. Bob Leuder from Superior tells me the
> engine should be more reliable than a Lycoming. I don't have the experience
> to comment.
We don't either... hard to comment when we never have seen one....
> Bob also says that Superior is working with Van's to have Van's resell their
> engines. I'm curious to hear the status on that.
They are coming out to Van's sometime and tell us about them...
at this writing I am not sure yet what will ensue...
> ...
My gut feeling is to either stay with Lyc. or wait for some 'field' time
to accumulate on engines they have already sold....
price looks like it will be a little higher than a Lyc. when it is apples
to apples.... Tom at Van's
---
So unless that "reliable source" is more reliable than Tom Green @ Vans,
I don't have a lot of faith. Bob @ Superior is obviously very optimistic
about both his engine and his relationiship with other vendors.
Luckily for me, I'll have some time before I need to decide. I'm still
wrapping up my -6A's wings.
I'm curious about people's response towards the Subaru choice offered
by the guys at subura air -- Jan Fellengellner, or whatever his name is.
The ENGINE choice looks pretty good, but I'm not sure about my choice
of props. They suggestion a composite 3-blade, electrically-adjusted prop
from Quinti in Italy. I'm not sure how I feel about tying myself to a solution
whose longevity is unproven. 10 years from now, I'll want to be able to
service my parts...
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I'd go with the XP-360, no brainer for me. Superior has an outstanding
> reputation (better than Lycoming's in my experience) and almost every
> part in the XP 360 is already approved and flying on thousands of
> certified aircraft around the world. I believe the crankcase was the
> only new thing they needed to make to put together a complete engine.
> Can't really imagine there'd be any big problems with it. Superior
> basically took Lycomings design and improved on each part where possible.
> A much better engine IMHO...
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fitting canopy frame...going with an overhauled Lycosaur cuz I
> can't afford an XP-360....
snips
Wasn't one of the improvements the equalization of oil
flow/pressure to both sides of the engine, achieved by
modifying the oil galleries?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach |
It finally dawned on me. I think you would be better served to get your 12
volt power thru the master switch rather than the ignition switch.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: vans electric tach
Ign terminal? Does that mean it needs a pulse from the "P" lead? Why
would
an electric tach have an ign. terminal?
Ed
Ign terminal simply means an ignition switched power source. They use an
isolated source of signal (transducer) to supply tach info..
Steve
exbuilders.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
Hi guys,
I have the superior 360. I took delivery of my engine in oct. and now
have it mounted on the plane (rv-8) using vans mounts etc. with no
modifications. I did swap out the sump and am using a 200 hp sump and pipes
so I can use a foward facing bendix fuel injection and not have the bump on
the bottom of the cowl. When I added up what I have into this vs. what a new
lyc from vans would be (the new one they have....180 hp with foward facing
injection) i am saving around 5-6 thousand.
Mattituck provides support and has been first class. They have told me that
its much smoother than the stock lyc 0-360 and lyc's dyno only about 176-178
and that this will dyno 183-185 in stock. I went with 9:1 pistons (no
additional cost) which should add about 10 and if you use the rem37by plugs
you can get another 2, not to mention any advantage that the Lasar system may
provide. So you can easily turn this into a 200 hp engine without changing
much.
Things were a little slow in getting the engine, but I imagine that the are
now much quicker that they are shipping. Maybe Bob Lueder can give everyone
an update on both vans and ship times.
John Link
RV-8
Sioux City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Polenske" <RV8TOR(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability? |
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
Sam & Brian you might want to take a look at the web sight above. I'm
thinking about putting one in. Sorry I'm alittle behind in my email.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: T&B/Turn Coord acro survivability?
>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Simple is better.
> > >
> > >Isn't that Van's attitude?
> >
> > >From what little I know of the man, I'd say so! The longer I own an
RV, the
> > more I find that I like to keep it simple and easy to maintain. Those
> > vacuum hoses, regulator, vac pump, vac gauge, etc etc, make for such a
mess
> > behind the panel. With current technology, you'd think aircraft
attitude
> > instrumentation would be MUCH more robust, lightweight, and NOT
dependent on
> > a silly little pump for it's sole survival! Oh well, I'm preaching to
the
> > choir here I'm sure.
>
>
> Brian, check this out:
>
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/index.html
>
> Hit the EFIS/Lite link in the left margin.
>
> I have one on order.....
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
Jim,
I too went with the split pins, but found that it would be impossible to
install the pins after assembly without dorking up my paint. I drilled a
hole in the aileron bracket for a #8 screw, countersunk the outboard side of
the bracket, inserted the hinge pin and then installed a #8 flush head
machine screw and self locking nut. I riveted a small piece of aluminum
flat stock to the inboard end of the hinge to prevent the hinge pin from
migrating inboard. I was then faced with the ugly gap (I hate gaps, even if
they are under the plane) created by the hinge eyes I had removed. To cover
this gap I turned a tube of the correct size (O.D. of the hinge eyes) on my
lathe and drilled the center to match the hinge pin. I installed the
spacers on the pins during installation.
If you decide on this installation, there are a couple of things to
consider. Of course you will have to buy new hinge pins. Also, be sure to
leave the pins as long as possible. If there isn't enough pin sticking out
of the outboard end of the hinge to grab with needle nose
pliers...........you can never remove them. Mine almost touch the inboard
end of the machine screw that retains them. Good luck.
Bob Hasson
Tucson, AZ
RV-6A N606BH (156 hours)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
>I did the "cut hinge pin in half, insert in two pieces from centre" mod
>myself. It works fine - until the top wings skins are on and the wings are
>on the fuselage. Then I find it quite difficult to get into the gap
>around the curved forward section of the flap to install the hinge pin. No,
>my fingers are not especially fat, it's just they're not 8 inches long! My
>hinge is set so that max reasonable flap movement is about 60 degs or so.
If
>the flap when it 90 digs this would make things a lot easier but the wing
>flap gap would have to be much larger (and uglier).
>
>Has anyone come up with a clever tool or gadget to assist with this job? I
>know it should be a one time only task in most cases, but installing and
>getting a good safety wire job on the hinge pin ends is an important one.
>Perhaps doing this is just to get you ready for doing the lower AN3- spar
>bolts on a -6A through the gear mounts, some of you will know what I mean..
>
>The "drill hole in aileron bracket" solution is looking a bit more
>attractive to me now. But then how do you get the hinge pin end through the
>hole if there is a bend in it for safetying purposes. I guess simply not -
>with a bit of safety wire through the hinge being the safety method.
>
>Jim Oke
>RV-3
>RV-6A
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
>
>>
>> Bob: Somewhere in the manual, or maybe it was in an old RVator, there
>was
>> mention of cutting the flap hinge pins in the middle so that they can be
>> removed with the wings installed. I did that and it looks like it will
>work
>> fine. I used two hinge eyes retained with a screw and nutplate mounted
on
>> the flap brace to retain the pins. If you would be interested in more
let
>me
>> know.
>>
>> Harry Crosby
>> Pleasanton, California
>> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
A local builder just put one of their kits together at another builder's
house. I got to witness much of this. From everything I saw, the engine
was first rate and of much higher quality than a stock Lyc. Local builder
Mark Delano (A&P, EAA Tech counselor) oversaw the assembly, and would be in
a much better position to comment (Mark?). I was impressed with the quality
and attention to small details, as well as the tech support that Mattituck
provided. There are numerous small improvements that will end up making a
much better engine in the long run (when compared with the Lycs.) And since
all the parts are proven (except the case) I can't imagine that reliability
will be an issue. Especially since the vital components get much more oil.
Keith
RV-6 Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Engine mount nuts |
I mounted my engine to the engine mount yesterday and am having a difficult
time
getting a wrench or socket on to the castle nuts to tighten them up.
Anyone have any suggestions? There isn't enough room for a socket and
ratchet
and my box end/open end can get in there. Millions have done it,
what am I missing?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing.....
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Reverse Dimpling |
Okay, here's my stupid mistake. I am home and don't have the plans so
will try to do it from memory. Bottom skin, center spar carrythru
flange, and another bottom skin to be riveted together. I was supposed
to 'reverse' dimple five of the outboard holes to allow the main gear
bracket to fit flush against the flush factory rivet heads placed inside
(not outside) in that one particular spot. Well, you guessed it, I
didn't read ahead and counter sunk the carrythru flange from the
'outside' in... and dimpled the skins to match the counter sunk hole.
So what would the correct procedure be to correct my mistake? Drill up
one size and go ahead and redimple with a larger size flush rivet in the
correct direction? Drill new holes between the present holes? Go
ahead and super pound the shop heads to allow room between the gear leg
bracket and the spar flange? Or what?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Hi Mike,
You can get adequate vacuum from some shop vacs or home vacs to operate
a gyro. However, you should use a regulator to avoid applying excess
vacuum. I have spun up my gyros using a home vacuum through a regulator.
Typically, the instruments require 5" Hg for full operation; the
regulators are set for 5". Not sure what the upper limit might be to
cause damage.
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing
MSices wrote:
>
>
> I just bought a used directional gyro on ebay. Does anyone know of anyway
> to test its functionality short of just sending it out for overhaul? I
> thought I read somewhere where you can just take a shop vac and attach it to
> the back to get the gyro going... Can that be true? Thanks,
>
> Mike Sices
> RV8 Kenosha, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
>
> >
> > James,
> > Take a look at this Web page, it should help.
> >
> > http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
> >
> >
> > Ross Scroggs
> > Conyers, Ga.
> > RV-4 Flaps
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: James Lawliss <ARG1(at)capital.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletin SB505B
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Anyone have a copy they would like to share? Or maybe there's a listing
> > > available on the web somewhere?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount nuts |
Ed,
I had to take an old Craftsman box wrench and grind the height of the box down
on the closed end to get it to fit the castle nut. You probably will have to
"sacrifice" one of your own.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: Cole, Ed
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount nuts
I mounted my engine to the engine mount yesterday and am having a difficult
time
getting a wrench or socket on to the castle nuts to tighten them up.
Anyone have any suggestions? There isn't enough room for a socket and
ratchet
and my box end/open end can get in there. Millions have done it,
what am I missing?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing.....
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse Dimpling |
Chuck,
I successfully corrected the same mistake on a few occasions as follows: (1)
Squeeze the dimpled hole with flat dies, thus removing the dimple, and (2)
dimple the holes correctly. This worked for me every time. I was always
afraid of just "reverse dimpling" for fear of tearing the metal.
Good luck and best wishes,
Jack Abell
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Okay, here's my stupid mistake. I am home and don't have the plans so
> will try to do it from memory. Bottom skin, center spar carrythru
> flange, and another bottom skin to be riveted together. I was supposed
> to 'reverse' dimple five of the outboard holes to allow the main gear
> bracket to fit flush against the flush factory rivet heads placed inside
> (not outside) in that one particular spot. Well, you guessed it, I
> didn't read ahead and counter sunk the carrythru flange from the
> 'outside' in... and dimpled the skins to match the counter sunk hole.
> So what would the correct procedure be to correct my mistake? Drill up
> one size and go ahead and redimple with a larger size flush rivet in the
> correct direction? Drill new holes between the present holes? Go
> ahead and super pound the shop heads to allow room between the gear leg
> bracket and the spar flange? Or what?
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I tested my new AI that way. the suction did not move but the AI
uprighted itself
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> I just bought a used directional gyro on ebay. Does anyone know of
> anyway
> to test its functionality short of just sending it out for overhaul?
> I
> thought I read somewhere where you can just take a shop vac and
> attach it to
> the back to get the gyro going... Can that be true? Thanks,
>
> Mike Sices
> RV8 Kenosha, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "der_Jagdflieger" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Web sites |
Tim, I would highly recommend the LRI for any RV.
I fly a RV-6A, often IFR, and I consider the LRI
almost a dispatch item. It is instantaneous, totally
"solid state" (no tubes, transistors, integrated circuits,
or moving parts) essentially unaffected by loading
or flap settings, etc.
Mount it at the left side of your panel and it is always
in view, particularly for left patterns as you turn to base
and final. You'll soon find yourself making much better
landings with lots less wear and tear on tires and brakes.
Check it out at:
http://www.liftreserve.com/
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: AOA Web sites
|
|
| Hello Listers,
|
| I have decided to consider adding an AOA or (Lift Reserve Indicator) to
my
| RV before I get too far into wiring and plumbing. I remember (almost
| painfully) the big who rah on the list about the two primary LRI guys
| selling the product and don't want to re-introduce that. I would like
to
| know if somebody can provide me with both URL sites so I can look
myself and
| decide myself which I would be interested in.
|
| If Bill or (sorry I forgot the others name) are on the list, could you
pipe
| in here with a URL for me?
|
| Thanks
| Tim
| RV-6 Slider
| N616TB registered
| Still finishing kit I think at least another 4-6 months.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net> |
Someone once either posted or had a link for how to read and make sense
of those numbers returned in a oil analysis for aircraft engines.
Anyone still got that?
Thanks
JMP N345JE 650+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thielert Aircraft Engines |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
RV-List Digest Server
All:
I received two JPEG pictures from Thielert Aircraft Engines GmbH.
Please reply to my address and I will be happy to forward them to you.
Also note that the November 2001 issue of the AOPA Pilot has an article
about diesels that includes a photo of the engine installed in a Piper
Cherokee.
Martin Sobel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Hinge pin length |
My pins are split too. I've only done preliminary fitting to the wings.
Why would it "dork up" your paint?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canopy frame
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hasson
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 10:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
>
>
> Jim,
> I too went with the split pins, but found that it would be
> impossible to install the pins after assembly without dorking
> up my paint.
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tubing benders? |
You'll do a far better job with a tiny fraction of the work if you purchase a good
quality bender.
The spring thingy will work but it takes a LOT of effort to get good results. You
are also quite
limited by the fact you have to slide it along the tube. Bite the bullet, buy a
good bender, and
you'll never regret it.
Bob McC
David Aronson wrote:
> Purchase a tubing bender. The springs didn't work very well in my hands.
> DCA
>
>
> >
> > What's everyone using to bend tubing? Fuel lines, Pitot lines.
> > Do I need to buy the bender tool or is the spring steel slinky looking
> > benders all I need?
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pin length |
Larry,
When you consider how you will anchor the pins to prevent lateral movement
as well as install/remove the pins several times, it will become obvious (or
at least it was to me) that tools will be needed in the area. And this is a
very confined area on a -6. I didn't want to chance an "oops" with the
paint, you may have a different experience.
Bob Hasson
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Monday, February 18, 2002 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>
>My pins are split too. I've only done preliminary fitting to the wings.
>Why would it "dork up" your paint?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 canopy frame
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hasson
>> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 10:21 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinge pin length
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim,
>> I too went with the split pins, but found that it would be
>> impossible to install the pins after assembly without dorking
>> up my paint.
>[snip]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vans electric tach/ solved |
Dear Listers,
my tach problem is solved !!!
thanks to all that replied. a fellow builder ( Don Hughes ) stopped by today
and we started over checking it out. we found that a sub din 9 pin connection
was the culprit, not giving the ground wire to the transducer. the pin had
backed out. when i was checking with a continuity checker and all the wires
ohmed ok, because i used a pin inserted to the female end which reached in
far enough and made the connection, showing the wiring circuity was good.
when i put the 2 connectors together the ground pin didn't touch the other
connector pin.
lesson learned, forward ahead
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Hi,
What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to being
able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather than
a degreaser.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (Inspection this Saturday!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | lightspeed flies! |
I completed installing the Lightspeed ignition on my RV6 and flew on
Sunday. I am impressed with how quickly the engine starts and smoothly
idles. I did not do any significant performance testing because I was
focused on getting reacclimated to flying after being down for 2.5
months. I will post more data as I collect it.
Overall, my initial impressions are favorable and I look forward to
exploring the performance envelope in my next flight.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 3, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers
just realized i have a fine coat of overspray on my wings and emp. it is
cures acro glow paint from sherwin williams. any ideas how to remove without
damaging the paint?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Zrxordeath(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: plexi cleaner |
Might trot down to your local Honda motorcycle dealer, and pick up a can of
Honda spray polish and cleaner. It is a miracle in a can, I have used it for
years, on plexiglass motorcycle windshields, and it works great. Cleans
easier the next time too. Smells like suntan lotion, but works great, should
be about $9 a can, will last you forever. Kyle, Lurking, not building yet...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | New files posted to the SE Florida RV Builders web site |
Listers,
At the request of Eustace Bowhay, I have posted photos and text relating
to the oil cooler installation on his new RV-6A. Eustace has placed his oil
cooler on the left, front horizontal engine baffle. This is just behind the
left cowl opening. These files can be viewed at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Engine%20Photos%20%26%20drawings/
Click on the link marked RV OIL COOLER INSTALLATIONS
I have also uploaded photos of Doug Bell's Ellison Fuel Injector
installation on his RV-8. These can be seen at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Fuel%20System%20Photos%20%26%20Drawings/
Click on the link marked ELLISON FUEL INJECTOR
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fitting floors
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
I thought I heard you can get an XP360 built up by Bart at Aero Sport
Power? Anyone else heard that?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie and
Tupper England
Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
-->
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I'd go with the XP-360, no brainer for me. Superior has an
> outstanding reputation (better than Lycoming's in my experience) and
> almost every part in the XP 360 is already approved and flying on
> thousands of certified aircraft around the world. I believe the
> crankcase was the only new thing they needed to make to put together a
> complete engine. Can't really imagine there'd be any big problems with
> it. Superior basically took Lycomings design and improved on each
> part where possible. A much better engine IMHO...
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fitting canopy frame...going with an overhauled Lycosaur cuz I
> can't afford an XP-360....
snips
Wasn't one of the improvements the equalization of oil flow/pressure to
both sides of the engine, achieved by modifying the oil galleries?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
I got my Ridgid benders at Home Depot... That work great! I highly
recommend them!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/wings9.jpg
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert McCallum
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tubing benders?
-->
You'll do a far better job with a tiny fraction of the work if you
purchase a good quality bender. The spring thingy will work but it takes
a LOT of effort to get good results. You are also quite limited by the
fact you have to slide it along the tube. Bite the bullet, buy a good
bender, and you'll never regret it.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Subaru power / NSI built |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
RV-List Digest Server
----------
From: "dennco2" <Dennco2(at)aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 00:43:16 -0000
Subject: Subaru power / NSI built
Hi Martin
I am wondering if there are builders in your RV group who are
planning to use Subaru 2.5 for their power? While searching around in
Yahoo groups, I noticed that there are several RV groups. A builder
who lost his medical is selling all new Subaru / NSI engines and
parts, new props, etc, etc. (over $25,000) all or part at super
prices, and I am trying to help him get the word out. I wondered if
any in your group would like some good deals and I have an almost
complete list of parts to post if applicable.
He also has an NSI built 108 hp EA81 engine, if any of the single
RV's can use. Can one post be sent to all the RV groups?
Thanks.
Dennis
Dennco2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plexi cleaner |
My Cessna owners manual says to use only Stoddard solvent to remove oil
from the plexi. I would follow it up with a mild soap to remove the residue
and then continue with the Novus treatment.
Dave Burton
(uncredited RV list contributor)
It's OK Matt, just so the list knows I'm not a dead beat :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: plexi cleaner
>
> Hi,
> What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
> RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to
being
> able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather
than
> a degreaser.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E (Inspection this Saturday!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have
just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the
painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should
we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed?
Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated.
Shane Summerhays
Boyd Seal
N33xb Flying rv6
Rv8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
Hi Bill,
Yes I have heard that. In fact I heard last year it from Bart Lalonde at
Aero Sport .
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Superior XP360
>
> I thought I heard you can get an XP360 built up by Bart at Aero Sport
> Power? Anyone else heard that?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie and
> Tupper England
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
>
>
> -->
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'd go with the XP-360, no brainer for me. Superior has an
> > outstanding reputation (better than Lycoming's in my experience) and
> > almost every part in the XP 360 is already approved and flying on
> > thousands of certified aircraft around the world. I believe the
> > crankcase was the only new thing they needed to make to put together a
>
> > complete engine. Can't really imagine there'd be any big problems with
>
> > it. Superior basically took Lycomings design and improved on each
> > part where possible. A much better engine IMHO...
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A fitting canopy frame...going with an overhauled Lycosaur cuz I
> > can't afford an XP-360....
> snips
>
> Wasn't one of the improvements the equalization of oil flow/pressure to
> both sides of the engine, achieved by modifying the oil galleries?
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tubing benders? |
Ridgid and Imperial Eastman both make quality benders and you won't go wrong with
either.
Bob McC
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I got my Ridgid benders at Home Depot... That work great! I highly
> recommend them!
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/wings9.jpg
>
> -Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Web sites |
We install and are very pleased with our AOA Pro from Jim Frantz.
We mounted in an adapter (provided by Jim) above our glare shield on the right
just ahead of the roll bar. It does not block our vision and yet is very visible
during approach. One thing we have learned flying our 8 (besides it being an
increible a/c) is that we hate to spend any time with our head down. The fact
that we installed our Garmin 295 mid-way in the glare shield above the AH allows
us to keep our heads out of the cockpit. Our micro monitor and encoder are
tied into our headset jacks (as well as the AOA alarms) allows us to keep our
eyes outside.
Performance of Jim's AOA Pro is exactly on the money. When the last RED chevron
disappears we have our stall and not before.
Good Building,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - Niantic, CT
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Story & Ground Up videos |
Robert;
The video was a bonus gift generously donated by the builders bookstore for those
who made a
sufficient contribution to Matt's annual fundraiser for the Matronics lists last
fall (winter).
Bob McC
Miller Robert wrote:
>
> Friends:
> How does one get on the list for a complimentary copy of Van's video... the
RV
> Story, as mentioned below?
> If possible to add a name....
>
> Robert E. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
The EXP 360 is available from Bart at this time. In a recent visit to Bart's
facility he was starting to build one of these engines and he showed me the
various improvements, they are all a plus. At the same time none of these
would effect the established reliability of the Lycoming engine.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Installing the VM1000
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP360
>
> OK guys, I know you are an opinionated bunch so let's hear some opinions
on
> this:
>
> I have been trying to decide on a powerplant for my RV7A. Looked at
Bart's
> engines, rebuilds from various sources, Sabaru, new Lycoming from Vans,
and
> the Superior EXP 360. For various reasons, which I don't want to rehash,
I
> narrowed my choices to new Lyc from Vans or the EXP 360.
>
> The EXP360 seems to offer some improvements over the Lycoming, and
Superior
> has a great reputation for replacement parts. What was holding me back on
> the EXP was its newness. I was ready to take the tried and true safe
route
> with the Lycoming then I stumbled on some new information.
>
> Reliable sources told me that Vans will most likely offer the EXP360 as an
> option in the near future. The same source told me that certification is
> expected this year. The fact that Van seems ready to give his "blessing"
to
> the EXP360 and the prospect of having a certified engine which is an
> improvement over the Lycoming has me leaning toward the EXP 360
>
> Your opinions please: If you were limited to a new fuel injected Lycoming
> 360 from Vans or the EXP injected 360 which would you choose and why?
>
> I have found this list to be an excellent source of knowledge and of
> inestimable help to this inexperienced builder. Thanks in advance
>
> John McDonnell RV7A Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plexi cleaner |
Try simple green. Test a very small spot first. I have not used it on the
canopy, but I have for everything else, and I can't find a surface that it
will harm. It will for sure take care of any oil you have I am sure. Be
sure to go to an auto parts store and get a lint free polish cloth. Paper
towels will ruin your canopy!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: plexi cleaner
>
> Hi,
> What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
> RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to
being
> able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather
than
> a degreaser.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E (Inspection this Saturday!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Zrxordeath(at)aol.com |
Have had good luck with wd-40, or light polishing compound....Try the WD on a
small area, works great...I have not tried this on aircraft, but have used it
on cars and motorcycles, and never had anything bad happen...Good luck. Kyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
3M makes a polish that you can buy from the Sherwin Williams automotive
paint store. I think it is called Finesse-It. Use it with a buffer. It is
like a conpound, but won't harm the paint. It should take off any overspray
that you may have.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: overspray
>
> dear listers
> just realized i have a fine coat of overspray on my wings and emp. it is
> cures acro glow paint from sherwin williams. any ideas how to remove
without
> damaging the paint?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/18/02 9:10:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ssummerhays(at)attbi.com writes:
<< Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have
just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the
painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should
we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed?
Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated.
Shane Summerhays >>
The answer is: "It depends."
I had little or no painting experience other than using latex paint and a
brush or roller before I painted my airplane. If you have significantly more
experience, this commentary probably isn't relevant.
In my case, it was definitely best to paint the airplane in pieces, starting
with the small ones. That way, my mistakes were smaller, and therefore
easier to fix. By the time I got to the big pieces (fuselage and wings), I
at least had some idea of how to spray a good coat of paint. Also, since I
never mixed a huge amount of paint at any one time (remember, a gallon or so
of the "good stuff" can cost well over $100), it didn't get too expensive if
I ran into a SNAFU and had to dispose of unused paint.
Another issue is how difficult it is to avoid overspray when painting an
entire airplane. By the time you've made one pass over the airplane, part of
it is likely to be dry, and overspray will show. You can pretty much avoid
this by painting in pieces (or by having the right facilities - a two car
garage doesn't qualify). Finally, it takes a lot of space to paint an
assembled airplane. Again, your normal garage just isn't suitable for
painting an entire plane.
For what it is worth, painting my airplane was by far the most difficult task
in the entire project. Much worse than fiberglass, the canopy, or the tanks.
In the end, I'm very pleased with the paint job, but I have often stated
that I'll never paint another airplane, just because if is such a tedious
(and miserable IMO) process. You don't know miserable until you are lying on
your belly in a puddle of water (better to keep the dust down), wearing a
tyvek suit and a forced air respirator, in 100 degree heat, spraying paint on
the underside of your fuselage.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: painting |
I painted mine by the component method, something like 50 individual parts.
Reasons were a small paint area and a novice painter. A friend did his
whole, just fairings and access panels off. I recommend the latter if you
can. Faster, and you make sure the whole plane's the same color. But painter
skill is more critical--no time to learn.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shane
Summerhays
Subject: RV8-List: painting
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Shane Summerhays"
Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have
just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the
painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should
we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed?
Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated.
Shane Summerhays
Boyd Seal
N33xb Flying rv6
Rv8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil pressure sender mount? |
Need to mount a mitchell oil pressure sender. Thinking about on the firewall.
Sender is cylinder shaped, 1 and 1/2 " diameter by 1and 1/2 " long. Hose
thread on one end, and wire terminal on the other.
How do I mount on firewall? Is there a better place to mount it? What have
those before me done?
Thanks,
Bill Griffin
RV6 going to the hanger soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: painting |
I painted mine after constructed, as still dinged it up here and there, and
had to re-paint here and there...tip...you might want to re-think your paint
sceme to "make room" for some goofs...BTW mine is for sale RV8A....so you
might spread the word....go for it!...jolly in aurora, or.
Shane Summerhays wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Shane Summerhays"
>
> Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have
> just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the
> painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should
> we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed?
> Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated.
>
> Shane Summerhays
> Boyd Seal
> N33xb Flying rv6
> Rv8 under construction
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com> |
Ladies and Gents,
While searching the archives for possible ways to extend the range of the
RV-4, I came across the suggestion to use RV-6 fuel tanks instead of the
standard tanks (gain of six gallons total). Is this really practical
without a major wing modification? What about using RV-8 or Rocket tanks
for a total gain of 10 or 20 gallons respectively? Can anyone who has built
both an RV-4 AND a -6, -8, or Rocket address this?
Tim - Pittsburgh
Still flying a short range Great Lakes biplane
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plexi cleaner |
Some years ago Light Plane Maintenance did a comparison study of cleaners.
Their conclusion was lemon Pledge and Bounty towels. I've been using same
for 15 years on airplanes and motorcycle windshields with great success.
Inexpensive too!
John Warren
RV-6
N645W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: plexi cleaner
>
> Hi,
> What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
> RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to
being
> able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather
than
> a degreaser.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E (Inspection this Saturday!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings? |
I asked this before and got a lot of replies referring to the -6 and -4,
but I thought I would try again. Has anyone found someone who makes
gear leg intersection fairings for the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50 Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | flap actuator/hinge pin question(s) |
I am building a 6.
Question 1. Being there has been 1/8 trimmed from the top of the flap spar
and tapers down, does the actuator bracket fit slanted (1/8) at top and flush
against the spar, OR 90 degrees perpendicular?
Question 2. Does the hinge fit under the bracket or stop just before it?
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | follow up flap hinge question |
The reason I asked if the hinge fit under the actuator bracket is because the
plans call for the hinge to be 55.5 inches long. If the hinge is flush at the
outboard end of the spar, and run along to spar, the 55.5 inches puts it
about half way under the bracket.?????????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
Bill,
The XP 360 seems to be the ONLY 360 you can get from Bart. They told me six
months ago that they couldn't get 0-360's to overhaul anymore and would only
quote me an XP 360. That's probably what I will buy.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
>
> I thought I heard you can get an XP360 built up by Bart at Aero Sport
> Power? Anyone else heard that?
>
> -Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
"deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
cutting disk instead?
I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
Any body have any tips?
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
Tom:
The bur is what causes the imperfect flair surface. Use the tubing cutter,
not a cut off. the cut off will leave burs as well but the cut will be much
less perfect. While cutting with the tubing cutter, rotate the cutter a few
revolutions and only turn the pressure nob a very lettle bit each time.
This allows the cutter to cut without burnishing the metal. After the
tubing is cut, take a file and make sure the surface of the cut is flat and
90 degrees to the axis of the tubing. The flair tool should have a tool to
remove the inside bur. It will be a triangle shaped tool. Then, use plenty
of aluminum cutting fluid during the flair. You will see much improved
surfaces on the flare. Just practice a little before you start for sure.
Hope this helps.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504rv
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: flaring tubing
>
>
> I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
> flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
> been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
> of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
> "deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
>
> I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
> circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
> cutting disk instead?
>
> I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
> burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
> the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
>
> Any body have any tips?
> --
> Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
>
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
Hi Tom,
I cut the tubing with a very small tubing cutter of a similar design to the
one you describe. I used a my one inch wide Delta belt sander to take off
the most of the "lip". I then used a fine file to dress the end. Next I used
a light touch with a deburring tool before flaring.
Be sure to take care that the finished (ready to flare) end is square before
doing the flaring
Because these flares are vital to the fuel system integrity be Very Fussy.
Use only thirty seven degree flaring tools NOT forty five Degree.
Make sure that all the fuel lines are cleaned out before installation and
plug any open ends to keep out dust, dirt, bugs,etc..
I would plug the open ends with the orange colored foam ear plugs leaving
half of the plug out so that it cannot be mistakenly left in place on final
assembly.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: flaring tubing
>
>
> I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
> flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
> been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
> of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
> "deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
>
> I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
> circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
> cutting disk instead?
>
> I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
> burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
> the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
>
> Any body have any tips?
> --
> Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
>
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Bart will build you a new engine from whatever parts you prefer. If you
ask for ECI stuff, that's what he'll use. Or he can make it up from
Superior parts or mixed, if that's what you want.
Ed Holyoke
Bill,
The XP 360 seems to be the ONLY 360 you can get from Bart. They told me
six
months ago that they couldn't get 0-360's to overhaul anymore and would
only
quote me an XP 360. That's probably what I will buy.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
>
> I thought I heard you can get an XP360 built up by Bart at Aero Sport
> Power? Anyone else heard that?
>
> -Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell TBO |
Overhaul at TBO isn't mandatory whether it's experimental or not. It's a
RECOMMENDED time from the manufacturer. Not advocating busting TBO, just
clarifying. Don't know if I'd bust TBO or not on my prop. Something I don't
plan to worry about until the time comes.
As for justifying the thing -- there's a lot more to it than just increased
climb. For me it's like the difference between having or not having a
transmission on a car. Helps you slow down faster, climb better without
sacrificing cruise performance, and helps with aerobatics due to the
"airbrake" effect when pulling power going downhill. Fixed pitch props have
their own advantages of course but I'll let someone else address that... :-)
As for cost per hour, I have two answers: 1) fly more hours. 2) chuck the
spreadsheet and put what you want on there! As someone else said, there's
really no practical justification for having an RV in the first place! :-)
This does bring up an interesting question: does anyone do their own prop
hub rebuilds? Seems like a lot of guys do their own engine rebuilds but how
come I never hear of anyone besides a prop shop doing a prop hub rebuild? I
don't guess I could do the blades, but why not the hub? What special
tools/skills are required?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl Priming? |
> Thanks for the comments; but tell me what type of prime I can use...
> Can I use the same I have use for metal? I use Rust-oleon, for priming
I used a PPG primer, the same stuff I used under the exterior paint. However
for the inside of the cowl probably rattle-can stuff would be fine. I
painted over the primer with high-temp rattle-can paint from an auto-parts
store. Also used aluminum heat shielding which I think is a must.
There have been posts in the past recommending against Rustoleum, at least
in places where you are going to be painting over with a finish paint,
because it contains fish oil which can make it incompatible with other types
of topcoat. Don't have first hand experience with that but it makes sense. I
used rattle-can zinc chromate or marhyde for most spot priming on the metal.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Coming up on the 100 hr mark on my Aerosport engine, and I'm thinking of
using Exxon Elite 20W-50 semi-synthetic oil. Bart says not to use it
before 100 hrs. Exxon suggests benefits could include better wear and
corrosion protection as well as enhanced rust protection. Anybody else
using this or have an opinion on the benefits?
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
tom
the secret to a good flare is to get a tubing cutter such as imperial makes
with a built in deburring blade to ream the inside of the tube after cutting.
when placing the pipe in the flare block, let it sit about a dimes thickness
above the block. flare till it just bottoms out and don't oversqueeze it. it
should be perfect. no need to ream the outside of the pipe.
scott
tampa
millions of flare joints in my life.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings? |
>>
>
>I asked this before and got a lot of replies referring to the -6 and -4,
>but I thought I would try again. Has anyone found someone who makes
>gear leg intersection fairings for the RV-8?
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50 Hrs.
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>(570)842-4057
>
>
Jim,
Have you tried the F1 Rocket folks? That would be the only possible source
I can think of. Really, they're not too bad to make yourself. It's kinda
fun actually. Get to play with clay and exercise your artistic talents.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:04:16 AM
Try a sponge bonnet on your dual action sander and 3M Finess-It. You may
have to use a little 1000 grit sand paper first. If you do, use it with the
garden hose running and keep that paper clean. Try it on a panel that is
not easily seen first.
Eric
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 02/18/2002 07:27:49 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: overspray
dear listers
just realized i have a fine coat of overspray on my wings and emp. it is
cures acro glow paint from sherwin williams. any ideas how to remove
without
damaging the paint?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings? |
Fun?! Brian, I've always respected your comments until now!! ;)
The fairings weren't the worst part of the project, but they were in the
bottom quarter, IMHO. One hint (learned after making my 2nd set!) - extend
the fairings far enough down the gear leg and along the fuse sides to allow
yourself plenty to trim after removed and when fitting. Also, don't try and
go light. Lay on the cloth. These things take a fair amount of
flexing/movement and you *don't* want them to start cracking and coming
apart after spending all the *fun* time laying up the FRP and sanding &
sanding & sanding...
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Really, they're not too bad to make yourself. It's kinda
>fun actually. Get to play with clay and exercise your artistic talents.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings? |
>
>
>Fun?! Brian, I've always respected your comments until now!! ;)
>
>The fairings weren't the worst part of the project, but they were in the
>bottom quarter, IMHO. One hint (learned after making my 2nd set!) - extend
>the fairings far enough down the gear leg and along the fuse sides to allow
>yourself plenty to trim after removed and when fitting. Also, don't try
>and
>go light. Lay on the cloth. These things take a fair amount of
>flexing/movement and you *don't* want them to start cracking and coming
>apart after spending all the *fun* time laying up the FRP and sanding &
>sanding & sanding...
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>Pearland, Texas
>
>
Ohmigod...I actually associated a fiberglass operation with "fun". I'm
doomed. Now I must build a plastic airplane...or sand my eyeballs with 40
grit...which would actually be less painful. ;)
Really, I found those fairings to be an interesting distraction from the
rest of the project, in that it allowed free reign of artistic creativity
(being a part-time musician, this appealed to me), and could be done in my
spare time. No hurry on it. Airplane flies fine without them.
I do completely agree with laying up MANY layers of glass for strength, and
extend them down and back way past where you think they need to eventually
end. Mine came up a bit short where they join at the rear and are a bit too
thin in that area. Still, the fit around the fuselage, gear leg covers and
wheel pants is excellent. I'm quite pleased with the end result, with only
ONE attempt at it. hehe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "HAMELMANN, KARL D. (JSC-EC) (ILC)" <karl.d.hamelmann1(at)jsc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings? |
Jim, Get in touch with Gary Hunter. He built Bruce Bohannon's Pushy Galore
and did the composite work on the Exxon Fly'n Tiger. He pulled a set off of
my -8 and made molds. They should fit well if you are using Van's gear leg
fairings and wheel pants. The info in the Yeller pages appears to be
incorrect. These are the numbers I have:
GARY HUNTER H) 218-277-7767 Cell) 281-433-8478
E-mail) gary.hunter(at)resins.com
Karl Hamelmann
RV-8
S/N 80240
N288K
-----Original Message-----
From: ciminojim [mailto:ciminojim(at)email.msn.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 gear leg intersection fairings?
I asked this before and got a lot of replies referring to the -6 and -4,
but I thought I would try again. Has anyone found someone who makes
gear leg intersection fairings for the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50 Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Engines from Aero Sport |
>
> I thought I heard you can get an XP360 built up by Bart at Aero Sport
> Power? Anyone else heard that?
Thought I'd boil down a response I got from Aero Sport when I asked them
about engines....
Overhauled O-360 C/S: 17,600 WHEN AVAILABLE
New O-360: 20,850
New XP360: 23,000 with accessories
A followup letter said that the new O-360s are a mix of Lycoming and Superior
parts.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plexi cleaner |
Pledge. I have a recent MSDS on Lemon pledge which I obtained when J&J
changed the formulation of the product I had been using for the past 20
years to clean my windshields. The new Lemon Pledge is safe for Plexiglas.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: plexi cleaner
>
> Hi,
> What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
> RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to
being
> able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather
than
> a degreaser.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E (Inspection this Saturday!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | oil pressure sender mount? |
Bill,
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ sells a steel
bulkhead mounted fitting that has a female 1/8 NPT port on one end and a
bulkhead mount 4AN male fitting on the other end for the hose connection.
The part number is 3208-02-04S. It sells for $7.53 and includes the bulkhead
mounting nut.
You could mount it on a small bracket if you want to keep everything on the
engine side of the firewall or you could mount it directly to the firewall
through a 7/16" hole if you want the sender on the aft side of the firewall.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Need to mount a mitchell oil pressure sender. Thinking about on the
firewall.
Sender is cylinder shaped, 1 and 1/2 " diameter by 1and 1/2 " long. Hose
thread on one end, and wire terminal on the other.
How do I mount on firewall? Is there a better place to mount it? What have
those before me done?
Thanks,
Bill Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Hi,
Prior to beginning my Phase I flight test period, I
would like to get some approximate V speeds for
reference.
Most of them I have. I am looking for the following:
Vx
Vy
Best Glide
I realize that once flight testing begins, I will have
to determine specific values for these speeds. I am
only looking for approximate values to begin with.
RV-6, O-360, Fixed Pitch Prop.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E (FAA inspection on Saturday!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell TBO |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Randall,
Some prop shops think nothing of putting junk into experimental props.
I have a friend that has a freshly overhauled prop for his -8 that came
with his used engine. The trouble is, some smart person thought it
would be OK to use blades in that hub that were for an O-320. Its at a
prop shop now being redone properly...with that being said...
I bought a prop for my Rocket that was due for overhaul and have
disassembled it. Before I disassembled the prop I acquired a copy of
the Hartzell overhaul manual--which has about six pages that are useful
to the compact hub series props used on RV's and Rockets. There is not
much to wear out inside the prop. Since the prop has oil in it
constantly under pressure, I found very little wear any of the parts
(pitch change fork, pitch change blocks, the pitch change rod, etc.)
The ball bearings and the races the the hub shanks ride in are pretty
massive and I found no wear there either. Most of the parts still
looked new. In fact, the grease in the shank area still looked new (the
blade bearings don't get oiled by the engine). Looked like it was being
properly regreased at annual time. I wished I hadn't disassembled
it--my original intent was to overhaul the prop myself for the learning
experience but the prop has 300 hours soh on it 10 years ago--it looked
like new inside.
As far as special tools go, I had to make a bar with four holes in it to
remove the housing that contains the piston (the thing your front
bulkhead bolts onto), but other than that--I haven't seen any need for
special tools. I know someone with a prop protractor and I'm going to
borrow it to check the pitch angles and set the low pitch stop. One
thing I didn't have when I disassembled it was some sort of holding
fixture or prop stand to hold the prop while I took it apart. Now that
I have a 540 to hang on the F1 as soon as I mount the engine I will
reassemble the prop and check the tracking. That's after I dress the
knicks out of the leading edges and repaint the backside of the blades
(I'm polishing the prop). I will also replace the rubber o-rings with
new ones, and have it dynamically balanced when I run the engine.
So, yes, it can be done by someone that doesn't work for a prop shop.
Would I OH one that is is at TBO? Heck no, unless it was spitting
grease or if there were any other signs of anomalies. The current AD
that applies to our props is easy to detect--they've never had an
inflight failure before showing signs of something amiss. But, for
$1500 in airplane dollars a prop overhaul is relatively cheap. That's
because they have to hardly do anything to them. Most of the labor
involves stripping the blades, reprofiling them, and repainting them. A
good prop guy could put one back together in a few hours after
inspecting the hub. It all depends on how much you think your time is
worth. For me, I have a flying airplane and am in no hurry to get my
new project done, and I thought it would be interesting to OH a prop to
see how they work.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 270 hours
building F1 Rocket
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell TBO
Overhaul at TBO isn't mandatory whether it's experimental or not. It's a
RECOMMENDED time from the manufacturer. Not advocating busting TBO, just
clarifying. Don't know if I'd bust TBO or not on my prop. Something I
don't
plan to worry about until the time comes.
As for justifying the thing -- there's a lot more to it than just
increased
climb. For me it's like the difference between having or not having a
transmission on a car. Helps you slow down faster, climb better without
sacrificing cruise performance, and helps with aerobatics due to the
"airbrake" effect when pulling power going downhill. Fixed pitch props
have
their own advantages of course but I'll let someone else address that...
:-)
As for cost per hour, I have two answers: 1) fly more hours. 2) chuck
the
spreadsheet and put what you want on there! As someone else said,
there's
really no practical justification for having an RV in the first place!
:-)
This does bring up an interesting question: does anyone do their own
prop
hub rebuilds? Seems like a lot of guys do their own engine rebuilds but
how
come I never hear of anyone besides a prop shop doing a prop hub
rebuild? I
don't guess I could do the blades, but why not the hub? What special
tools/skills are required?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
Bart will be delivering my engine first week of March. As mentioned he will
build whatever you want. On mine, basically an XP 360, he is fitting one
ElectroAir ignition and AirFlow Performance injector. The good thing is when
he buys the parts he doesn't order the pieces you don't want, so you don't
end up having to get rid of magnetos, carbs etc.and he does all the work of
installing them. He will also paint it any color you want for $50, etc., go
to their Webb site, they give all the details.
The whole thing delivered is around $24 K (doesn't look so bad when you use a
K instead of ,000). Went to visit his shop in Kamloops, BC in Dec. way out in
the middle of no where, but it was a beautiful drive. He has a really neat
facility, saw one in ready for assembly, it is a fine piece of engineering.
Bart is very straight forward and knowledgeable and after talking with him, I
felt pretty good about my decision.
Dave Burnham
RV6A Finishing
Lincolnshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | dimpled the wrong way |
I successfully corrected the same mistake on a few occasions as
follows: (1)
Squeeze the dimpled hole with flat dies, thus removing the dimple, and (2)
dimple the holes correctly. This worked for me every time. I was always
afraid of just "reverse dimpling" for fear of tearing the metal.
As a tech counselor, I have seen several instances where builders have done
this "re-dimpling." The problem is that you have now seriously fatigued the
metal. Even if it looks OK, it might not be.
One particular instance comes to mind, the builder re-dimpled a few holes
and riveted them. Then to his amazement, the redimpled skin broke loose
while working nearby!!!! The redimpled skin tore out in a perfect circle
where it had been redimpled.
I think I'd try flattening the dimple and adding new rivets around it, if
possible. Or ask Van.
Vince Frazier
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
F-1H Rocket... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com'"
| Subject: | RE: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp |
Guys,
thanks, this is rather depressing, I guess it means I have to travel on
someone elses airplane (Southwest) to go to business events rather than my
own.
The mileage expense is the standard re-compensation for business miles
traveled on my car in the name of company business, and it doesn't cause my
car driving to be a commercial operation. I do calculate it in terms of
airmiles rather than car miles. It never occured to me that workmans
compensation would be factor, but it makes sense.
A couple of questions
Does it cost more to have the employer named as an insured?
What does it take for us to be two friends, flying to an area for fun, fully
covered as normal, who incidentally go to a business function, and have all
that stick after the fact in court? (with, or without, milage recompensation
from the employer).
This is particularly important to me as I teach Aviation Maintenance, so
anytime I go to an airshow with one of my other coworkers for fun, it will
always be somewhat connected to our livelyhood. I guess the question is
"what defines the grey (insurance) line between a business flight and a fun
flight". If we go to the airshow, and I buy a new book for one of our
courses, does this mean the trip is now a business trip?
thanks very much for your time on this issue
Wheeler
-----Original Message-----
From: John Helms
Subject: Re: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp
Check your policies. It is in all of them that we deal with (I cannot
speak
for AVEMCO, however). Workers comp is enforced much more strictly than
any
other type of insurance, it is considered absolute... you hurt yourself
at
work and you get paid (i.e. you have a bad back already and your
employer
knows it, you strain your back picking up your briefcase out of your
trunk,
workers comp will pay. Your employer shouldn't have sent you home with
anything heavy enough to strain your back.)
For that reason, most other types of property and casualty policies
exclude
coverage for claims that can be covered under work comp. (i.e.
travelling
as a passenger on business in an airplane) (This would only exclude
coverage
for the passenger as the Named insured of a policy cannot really sue
himself, and thus can't be liable to himself anyway, and is not covered
by
the liability section anyway.) The language in the policy we are
discussing
is on page 3, number 6.
If you notice it does not exclude medical expense coverage (coverage E)
which is limited to $3000 for incidental medical claims, what it does
exclude is the liability section.
And no, I do not believe the insurance companies would not exclude
everything ... that would make it rather difficult to sell policies... I
think your feelings are misplaced (should be mad at lawyers) the reason,
I
believe, you feel that way is due to the precise language of insurance
policies, which are written that way due to lawyers for years trying to
get
things covered that the policy wasn't designed to cover in the first
place.
Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Blum" <bob(at)theblums.net>
Subject: Re: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp
I am responding to the string concerning the insurance policy question.
I
am not sure that "All aircraft insurance policies exclude passenger
coverage
if the pax has workers comp." Coverage exclusions are usually
determined by
State Law. (Heck if the insurance companies had their druthers, they
would
exclude EVERYTHING and just keep the premium)
Wheeler, was the reference to compensation referring to travel mileage
reimbursement paid by your agency to you? In that instance, I don't
believe
that you run afoul with the FAA. On the other hand, if a passenger pays
34
cents per mile for a ride, this passenger payment seems beyond the
limits of
cost sharing. In summary, if I worked for the State I would accept the
.34
per mile, but would not accept a pax .34 cents per mile.
Sorry, had continuing education yesterday.
They are correct. Aircraft insurance policies all exclude passenger
coverage for passengers that are covered under work comp. So it would
be
fine for you to take the airplane, but the passenger would not be
covered
(as the passenger is travelling on business for the company, you are no
problem as you aren't covered under the liability section (you cannot be
liable for your own injury)).
And the policy doesn' t protect your employer at all unless you add them
as
an additional insured (this would provide them with coverage under your
liability section... legal defense, and coverage under your $1 million
liability limit.)
Charging per mile could cause difficulties as well. Aviation insurance
policies like you have only allow for compensation of an equal portion
(i.e.
1/2 since this is a 2 seat airplane) for gas, oil, landing fees, etc.
no
fixed costs (insurance, hangaring, maintenance) because if you include
those, then it is considered rental. You would have to be careful that
the
"per mile" charge you put on expenses for that passenger did not exceed
the
compensation allowed by the policy (incidentally, I assume you would be
calculating "per mile" as you would have to drive it, not straight
line.)
Please let me know if you have any questions.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question for JT
John,
What is the coverage on the Vangaurd Package with respect to me using my
plane to fly to Lake Tahoe for a work related business conference with
myself and another employee on board. I would not be charging any fee
for
this other than standard mileage compensation, which I don't think
constitutes a commercial operation.
Would all the coverages still apply? And how does that cover/provide
protection, if any, for the Community College District I work for.
My employer is claiming that this is not allowable under any
circumstances
as there is no coverage for them. My contention is that my Aircraft
policy
is no different than my Auto policy in this respect, and they do allow
me to
use my car to drive to conferences.
thanks
Wheeler North
PS I'm sending this via the list-server as it probably applies to many
of us
who might like use our fine aircraft on a work related venture.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure sender mount? |
The most common method is to use a big adel clamp. Seems to work for a lot
of people but I had to be different, and instead made a little U shaped
bracket with slots for a hose clamp. Put it on the firewall more or less
directly behind the MP port on the #3 cylinder.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
I'm not sure if it's right or wrong but I buy glasses cleaner from Sams.
Seems to work fine.
Jack
RV8
DSM
Pledge. I have a recent MSDS on Lemon pledge which I obtained when J&J
changed the formulation of the product I had been using for the past 20
years to clean my windshields. The new Lemon Pledge is safe for Plexiglas.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
> Hi,
> What kind of grocery store bought cleaners are safe to use on a plexiglass
> RV-6 canopy. I have some oil spray that I need to clean off prior to
being
> able to use my Novus Plexiglass cleaner. It is more of a polish rather
than
> a degreaser.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com> |
Can anyone comment, positive or negative, on the EAA SportAir RV Assembly
workshop? Is it worth the money, or would the money be better spent on
something else?
How does the "RV Assembly" workshop compare to the "Sheet Metal" workshop?
Thanks.
Geoff Evans
RV-8, Still in the planning stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: edel clamps: poly tubing & wires |
[snip]
> probe wires back to the cockpit securing
> them with the same edel clamps that hold the poly tubing.
>
> It occurred to me, the 1000th time I looked at this, that this
> might not be a good practice. The clamps hold the wire pretty
> tightly against the poly tubing - I can't slide it - but, is there a
> chance that vibration could make it cut into the tubing over a
> period of years?
> Is it generally unwise to try to secure more than one thing with
> an edel clamp?
I don't remember exactly what AC43-13 says about this but I do know it
specifically says NOT to run wires with flammable fluid lines. What you're
talking about is not a fluid line nor is the line even metal so I don't
think it'd be a problem. If it was a metal line then I'd add chafe
protection such as spiral wrap.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Workshops |
It's worth every cent in my opinion. Granted, I had never done any riveting
other than pop-riveting, so this was all new exposure to me. But putting
sheet metal parts on an old beat-up VW and building a quality aircraft are
in two different leagues...so it also introduced me to a lot of the
standards that go into this whole mess.
I took the course with Tom Emery at the Corona A/C Spruce. Well worth it.
I've got some pictures of the projects posted at:
http://www.rvproject.com:8000/sportair.html
in case you want to see what you end up building. It doesn't look like
much, but a LOT of work goes into building that control surface sub-section.
And the parts are exactly what you'll be dealing with on an RV. Definitely
a good experience.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: EAA Workshops
>
> Can anyone comment, positive or negative, on the EAA SportAir RV Assembly
> workshop? Is it worth the money, or would the money be better spent on
> something else?
>
> How does the "RV Assembly" workshop compare to the "Sheet Metal" workshop?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Geoff Evans
> RV-8, Still in the planning stages
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EAA Workshops |
| From: | "James Madill" <James.Madill(at)duke.edu> |
16, 2001) at 02/19/2002 12:56:36 PM,
Serialize complete at 02/19/2002 12:56:36 PM
I went to the January workshop in Griffin, GA and felt it was well worth
the money. I got to make mistakes and correct them on test pieces. Making
the mistakes on the projects in the workshop has told me what to look out
for when it comes time to building the plane itself. Working with the
various available tools was good to. There is only so much you can learn
from books or videos. Actual experience takes you much further down the
proficiency path.
Got my RV-8 tailkit inventoried and raring to start building.
-- James
o o o o o o o . . . _______________________ _______=======_T___
o _____ |James Madill | |Duke Univ Med Ctr|
>.][__n_n_| D[ ====|____ |james.madill(at)duke.edu| | (919) 286-6384 |
(________|__|_[____/____]_|_____________________|_|_________________|
_/oo O-O-O ` oo oo 'o
o
o o
o
o` 'o
o o
o`
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
<http://www.duke.edu/~madil001/>
"Geoff Evans"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
02/19/02 11:51
Please respond to rv-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV-List: EAA Workshops
Can anyone comment, positive or negative, on the EAA SportAir RV Assembly
workshop? Is it worth the money, or would the money be better spent on
something else?
How does the "RV Assembly" workshop compare to the "Sheet Metal" workshop?
Thanks.
Geoff Evans
RV-8, Still in the planning stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
As a reminder, if you can't make a workshop, George Orndorff has a kit of
the control
surface sub section for $35. It is available with or without a video tape.
I have had several friends buy the kit and I've let them use my tools and
guidance
to let them assemble it. It takes about six hrs to do the whole thing with
time out for instruction
and lunch.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [SMTP:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 9:48 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA Workshops
>
>
> It's worth every cent in my opinion. Granted, I had never done any
> riveting
> other than pop-riveting, so this was all new exposure to me. But putting
> sheet metal parts on an old beat-up VW and building a quality aircraft are
> in two different leagues...so it also introduced me to a lot of the
> standards that go into this whole mess.
>
> I took the course with Tom Emery at the Corona A/C Spruce. Well worth it.
> I've got some pictures of the projects posted at:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com:8000/sportair.html
>
> in case you want to see what you end up building. It doesn't look like
> much, but a LOT of work goes into building that control surface
> sub-section.
> And the parts are exactly what you'll be dealing with on an RV.
> Definitely
> a good experience.
>
> )_( Dan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: EAA Workshops
>
>
> >
> > Can anyone comment, positive or negative, on the EAA SportAir RV
> Assembly
> > workshop? Is it worth the money, or would the money be better spent on
> > something else?
> >
> > How does the "RV Assembly" workshop compare to the "Sheet Metal"
> workshop?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Geoff Evans
> > RV-8, Still in the planning stages
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net> |
I think there was a problem with my email address, so here's my post again:
I just had a demo flight on the RV7 at Van's last week. I was very impressed
with the climb rate and handling. So much so that I bought a tail kit. What
was a little bit of a concern though was how fast the stall broke. There is
very little warning (other than the airspeed), and there is a rather sharp
pitch down of the nose. I was wondering if it is appropriate to install a
stall warning system on this type of aircraft, or is it just something RV
pilots get used to. All of the GA aircraft that I've rented have them, and
those aircraft have a lot more warning signs (buffeting etc) before the
stall. Comments?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Speaking of flaring . . .
Is a double flare on aluminum acceptable or desireable?
Or, will the aluminum crack where the lip gets folded in?
Todd Houg
RV9A - www.toddhoug.com
-----Original Message-----
From: tom sargent [mailto:sarg314(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: RV-List: flaring tubing
I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
"deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
cutting disk instead?
I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
Any body have any tips?
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 Project For Sale |
Project For Sale:
RV-4
Emp Complete
Control Surfaces Complete
Wings Complete
Fuselage Bulkheads Complete
Remainder of fuse in crate
Canopy Included (guaranteed replacement if cracked)
Cowl Included
Engine Mount Included
Asking $9000
Bob Waalkes
Michigan City, IN 46360
Phone: 219-874-7990
Phone: 888-247-9937
Fax: 219-874-7991
Email: waalkes(at)netnitco.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Mark,
I have a stall vane that I salvaged from a PA-28 wing.
I have installed it on my RV-6 which will be test flown
hopefully this weekend.
The test pilot who will be flying my plane already has
told me that he doesn't like stall warning horns. I
happen to disagree with him on this point though.
I figured if I lost an engine or inadverdantly got slow
in the pattern, I would like a little warning prior to
accidentally stalling the aircraft. It's cheap
insurance.
A few years back, a pilot (corporate jet pilot) at my
local airport stall/spun his T-craft into the ground
after an engine failure. No stall warning device on
that aircraft. A T-craft gives more warning than an RV,
but in this case, not enough. I can only speculate that
he might be alive today if he didn't stall the plane
during the engine out. I installed the stall vane in an
effort to stack the deck a little more in my favor.
My two cents....
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
>
> I think there was a problem with my email address, so here's my post again:
>
> I just had a demo flight on the RV7 at Van's last week. I was very impressed
> with the climb rate and handling. So much so that I bought a tail kit. What
> was a little bit of a concern though was how fast the stall broke. There is
> very little warning (other than the airspeed), and there is a rather sharp
> pitch down of the nose. I was wondering if it is appropriate to install a
> stall warning system on this type of aircraft, or is it just something RV
> pilots get used to. All of the GA aircraft that I've rented have them, and
> those aircraft have a lot more warning signs (buffeting etc) before the
> stall. Comments?
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Bunny's Guide n' Stuff |
A minor nit... The actual address is
http://www.geocities.com/bunnysguide/index.html
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: deltab(at)erols.com [mailto:deltab(at)erols.com]
Subject: RV-List: Bunny's Guide n' Stuff
>BTW: Where has your excellent web site settled? I don't think anybody on
>the list(s)
>would mind that being broadcasted.
http://www.yahoo.com/bunnysguide -- it seems that the original site at
xoom.com disappeared. Alternatively, you can there via
http://fly.to/bunnysguide
Could you please post this to the RV-list? I'm no longer subscribed to it.
Frank.
(RV-6 project [and website] on hold until Masters thesis is completed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Attitude Gyro Available |
New vacuum attitude gyro available for sale.
Sigma-Tek: Model 5000B-38
TSO: C4c Type 1
Part # 23-501-031-1
Serial # T73032D
Weight: 2.0 LB.
Operates on 4.5 to 5.2 IN HG
Modified by instrument shop for 8 degree tilt.
Has separate lighted bezel (14 volts)
ACS list this at $519 w/o lighted bezel and $560 with 8 degree tilt.
Never used. Run regularly.
Contact me off list (DFaile(at)aol.com) with offer. Will ship anywhere in the US.
david faile, mcfi a&p
southwestern ct
rv6 still wiring panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Theilert Engine |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
RV8 List
I received this message from one of the rv-8 lists.
Tried to send a reply, but message was returned with "fatal errors."
Martin Sobel
----------
From: "dansrv82001" <dansrv82001(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 03:32:30 -0000
Subject: Theilert Engine
Martin,
I am interested in the posibilities of this engine for my 8.
Sounds like a good thing ---maybe. Send me the pics!
Thanks,
Dan ready to mount the emp on the fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
Try using Detailer's Clay, available at auto body supply stores and some auto parts
chain stores. Follow
directions and use with the recommended lubricant. That's the least aggressive
way to remove it. - Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp |
Ya know I am finding the same crappy issues exist for hangars. I built a
hangar on leased airport land for my plane to live in as T-hangars are
relatively expensive and you can't do anything in them. I am told I can't
even final assemble my RV in a City T-hangar. So I built a hangar. While I
was at it I built it big enough that I could share it with others wanting a
reasonable place to assemble and keep their projects. Guess What? Now I am
told I can put my airplane in there but not somebody elses OR I can rent to
others so long as I don't put mine in there.
What the heck gives with this stuff? You are not aloud to store anything
that could cause a fire if you poured gas on it and lit it. The fire trucks
are on the airport and manned 24 X 7. All the airplanes are individually
insured. The City doesn't allow you to paint in there and the entire
airport has a security fence around it. How much safer can it get? I am
insuring rental houses much cheaper and the risk must be at least triple.
Anybody have any insight on this? Are others sharing hangars? Especially
hangars you own.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB still finishing
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 09:42:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp
Guys,
thanks, this is rather depressing, I guess it means I have to travel on
someone elses airplane (Southwest) to go to business events rather than my
own.
The mileage expense is the standard re-compensation for business miles
traveled on my car in the name of company business, and it doesn't cause my
car driving to be a commercial operation. I do calculate it in terms of
airmiles rather than car miles. It never occured to me that workmans
compensation would be factor, but it makes sense.
A couple of questions
Does it cost more to have the employer named as an insured?
What does it take for us to be two friends, flying to an area for fun, fully
covered as normal, who incidentally go to a business function, and have all
that stick after the fact in court? (with, or without, milage recompensation
from the employer).
This is particularly important to me as I teach Aviation Maintenance, so
anytime I go to an airshow with one of my other coworkers for fun, it will
always be somewhat connected to our livelyhood. I guess the question is
"what defines the grey (insurance) line between a business flight and a fun
flight". If we go to the airshow, and I buy a new book for one of our
courses, does this mean the trip is now a business trip?
thanks very much for your time on this issue
Wheeler
-----Original Message-----
From: John Helms
Subject: Re: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp
Check your policies. It is in all of them that we deal with (I cannot
speak
for AVEMCO, however). Workers comp is enforced much more strictly than
any
other type of insurance, it is considered absolute... you hurt yourself
at
work and you get paid (i.e. you have a bad back already and your
employer
knows it, you strain your back picking up your briefcase out of your
trunk,
workers comp will pay. Your employer shouldn't have sent you home with
anything heavy enough to strain your back.)
For that reason, most other types of property and casualty policies
exclude
coverage for claims that can be covered under work comp. (i.e.
travelling
as a passenger on business in an airplane) (This would only exclude
coverage
for the passenger as the Named insured of a policy cannot really sue
himself, and thus can't be liable to himself anyway, and is not covered
by
the liability section anyway.) The language in the policy we are
discussing
is on page 3, number 6.
If you notice it does not exclude medical expense coverage (coverage E)
which is limited to $3000 for incidental medical claims, what it does
exclude is the liability section.
And no, I do not believe the insurance companies would not exclude
everything ... that would make it rather difficult to sell policies... I
think your feelings are misplaced (should be mad at lawyers) the reason,
I
believe, you feel that way is due to the precise language of insurance
policies, which are written that way due to lawyers for years trying to
get
things covered that the policy wasn't designed to cover in the first
place.
Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Blum" bob(at)theblums.net>
Subject: Re: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp
I am responding to the string concerning the insurance policy question.
I
am not sure that "All aircraft insurance policies exclude passenger
coverage
if the pax has workers comp." Coverage exclusions are usually
determined by
State Law. (Heck if the insurance companies had their druthers, they
would
exclude EVERYTHING and just keep the premium)
Wheeler, was the reference to compensation referring to travel mileage
reimbursement paid by your agency to you? In that instance, I don't
believe
that you run afoul with the FAA. On the other hand, if a passenger pays
34
cents per mile for a ride, this passenger payment seems beyond the
limits of
cost sharing. In summary, if I worked for the State I would accept the
.34
per mile, but would not accept a pax .34 cents per mile.
Sorry, had continuing education yesterday.
They are correct. Aircraft insurance policies all exclude passenger
coverage for passengers that are covered under work comp. So it would
be
fine for you to take the airplane, but the passenger would not be
covered
(as the passenger is travelling on business for the company, you are no
problem as you aren't covered under the liability section (you cannot be
liable for your own injury)).
And the policy doesn' t protect your employer at all unless you add them
as
an additional insured (this would provide them with coverage under your
liability section... legal defense, and coverage under your $1 million
liability limit.)
Charging per mile could cause difficulties as well. Aviation insurance
policies like you have only allow for compensation of an equal portion
(i.e.
1/2 since this is a 2 seat airplane) for gas, oil, landing fees, etc.
no
fixed costs (insurance, hangaring, maintenance) because if you include
those, then it is considered rental. You would have to be careful that
the
"per mile" charge you put on expenses for that passenger did not exceed
the
compensation allowed by the policy (incidentally, I assume you would be
calculating "per mile" as you would have to drive it, not straight
line.)
Please let me know if you have any questions.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question for JT
John,
What is the coverage on the Vangaurd Package with respect to me using my
plane to fly to Lake Tahoe for a work related business conference with
myself and another employee on board. I would not be charging any fee
for
this other than standard mileage compensation, which I don't think
constitutes a commercial operation.
Would all the coverages still apply? And how does that cover/provide
protection, if any, for the Community College District I work for.
My employer is claiming that this is not allowable under any
circumstances
as there is no coverage for them. My contention is that my Aircraft
policy
is no different than my Auto policy in this respect, and they do allow
me to
use my car to drive to conferences.
thanks
Wheeler North
PS I'm sending this via the list-server as it probably applies to many
of us
who might like use our fine aircraft on a work related venture.
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp |
Tim-look at starting an eaa-chapter-lease your hanger to the chapter-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled the wrong way |
I ran into a similar situation on a different part. Van's would not offer
any advice. I performed the following experiment on a test strip:
I dimpled/redimped 20 cycles and examined the area under a microscope. I
observed no signs of fatigue-induced grain enhancement. Then I riveted it
and performed a pull test wherein the results were indistinguishable from
that of a single-dimple operation. That convinced me that a single redimple
was safe in this case.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: dimpled the wrong way
>
> I successfully corrected the same mistake on a few occasions as
> follows: (1)
> Squeeze the dimpled hole with flat dies, thus removing the dimple, and (2)
> dimple the holes correctly. This worked for me every time. I was always
> afraid of just "reverse dimpling" for fear of tearing the metal.
>
> As a tech counselor, I have seen several instances where builders have
done
> this "re-dimpling." The problem is that you have now seriously fatigued
the
> metal. Even if it looks OK, it might not be.
>
> One particular instance comes to mind, the builder re-dimpled a few holes
> and riveted them. Then to his amazement, the redimpled skin broke loose
> while working nearby!!!! The redimpled skin tore out in a perfect circle
> where it had been redimpled.
>
> I think I'd try flattening the dimple and adding new rivets around it, if
> possible. Or ask Van.
>
> Vince Frazier
> 812-985-7309 home
> 812-464-1839 work
> F-1H Rocket... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
>From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: flaring tubing
>Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:58:23 -0700
>
>
>I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
>flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
>been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
>of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
>"deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
>
>I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
>circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
>cutting disk instead?
>
>I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
>burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
>the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
>
>Any body have any tips?
>--
>Tom Sargent. RV-6A QB
>
>--
>Tom Sargent.
>
>Tom:
Use a little oil or other lubricant before you flair ,It makes a smooth
surface.
Chris S RV8 80881
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
i have a question on the tach. while flying at 2400 rpm the tac made a
squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm. then went back down to normal. it
did it a few times. is it the tac going bad? or cable.
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Your AC liability policy & Workers Comp |
Tim-now you got the right idea-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 -getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
power output.
Any personal experience out there?
John Warren
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
Dan,
I would suspect the cable. They do need to be lubricated periodically.
(Unless you have an electronic tach! :-)
John Warren
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: tach
>
> i have a question on the tach. while flying at 2400 rpm the tac made a
> squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm. then went back down to normal.
it
> did it a few times. is it the tac going bad? or cable.
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I wouldn't put Exon in my wheelbarrow.
Anyone want to buy some of my leftover recalled Aeroshell? It's only
contaminated with little metal particles. I kept a few quarts from the case
that I ran in my 50 hour engine for about 14 hours, just in case some lawyer
might need them down the road. Thanks for the reminder to grease up my
wheelbarrow...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 91 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Source for SS tape for flaps |
Since Van's quit carrying SS tape, the archives said JCWhitney had it
but apparently they don't carry it any more. Looked through their web
site and didn't list it with all the other tapes they carry. Anyone
know of another source?
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source for SS tape for flaps |
Van's has an almost clear plastic type tape which I just installed on my RV-4
.
It looks good and seems to be tough and slick. I used a heat gun to warm and
smooth it and it went on smooth.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X -inspection 2-22-02
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
I had the exact thing happen recently on my Stinson. The result? New Tach.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV4-List: tach
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> i have a question on the tach. while flying at 2400 rpm the tac made a
> squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm. then went back down to normal.
it
> did it a few times. is it the tac going bad? or cable.
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
Mike;
The fix, go to an electric tach. They WORK. By the
way, I have an automotive 2 1/4 electric ($15) on my
RV4 that has worked flawlessly for 4 years.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Mike Nellis wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
>
>
> I had the exact thing happen recently on my Stinson.
> The result? New Tach.
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV4-List: tach
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> >
> > i have a question on the tach. while flying at
> 2400 rpm the tac made a
> > squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm. then
> went back down to normal.
> it
> > did it a few times. is it the tac going bad? or
> cable.
> >
> > thank you
> > dan carley
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Source for SS tape for flaps |
why would you want stainless steel tape. the plastic tape Vans sells is
colorless and looks great on the flaps.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for SS tape for flaps |
Try a wholesale heating and air condition supply house
Just finished 25 hr check up after 4 months and just found a gas leak at
carburetor and small oil leak at front seal.
Flying and loving it
Ken S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Source for SS tape for flaps
>
> Since Van's quit carrying SS tape, the archives said JCWhitney had it
> but apparently they don't carry it any more. Looked through their web
> site and didn't list it with all the other tapes they carry. Anyone
> know of another source?
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wings
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
Is anyone else having a problem getting a prop from Margie Warnke at
this time? I have been waiting since 8-10-2001 and am light in the
pocket by $1,385.00. Am I being impatient or should I be concerned? I
only get answering machine and no return phone call.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
Thanks for the info Rob. The problem with 1947 Stinson's is that they are
certified and stuff like 'lectric tachs and such takes more paperwork and
hassle than I'm willing to shell out at this point.
Mike
>
> The fix, go to an electric tach. They WORK. By the
> way, I have an automotive 2 1/4 electric ($15) on my
> RV4 that has worked flawlessly for 4 years.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
>
>
> --- Mike Nellis wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
> >
> >
> > I had the exact thing happen recently on my Stinson.
> > The result? New Tach.
> >
> > Mike
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV4-List: tach
> >
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> > >
> > > i have a question on the tach. while flying at
> > 2400 rpm the tac made a
> > > squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm. then
> > went back down to normal.
> > it
> > > did it a few times. is it the tac going bad? or
> > cable.
> > >
> > > thank you
> > > dan carley
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Rott" <ejrott(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Workshops |
I highly recommend the RV Assembly workshop to you. It is worth every
penny. In it you will learn the basics of sheet metal work, and you will be
able to dive into your kit with confidence. There have been many posts on
this in the past. Search the archives for more extended commentary.
John Rott RV 7A Tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: EAA Workshops
>
> Can anyone comment, positive or negative, on the EAA SportAir RV Assembly
> workshop? Is it worth the money, or would the money be better spent on
> something else?
>
> How does the "RV Assembly" workshop compare to the "Sheet Metal" workshop?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Geoff Evans
> RV-8, Still in the planning stages
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
In a message dated 2/18/02 9:42:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sarg314(at)earthlink.net writes:
I am starting on the fuel system plumbing. I've done a few practice
flares on the 3/8" aluminum tubing. I notice that after the tubing has
been cut, it has a razor sharp lip extending in towards the central axis
of the tube. Is it advisable to just flare that as is, or should it be
"deburred" first? If so, what's the best way to deburr it?
I'm using a hardware store tubing cutter - like a C-clamp with a
circular cutting blade. Is it better to cut the tubing off with a
cutting disk instead?
I notice some of the practice flares I did had an imperfection in the
burnished surface of the flare - a small pit. I'm guessing it's from
the burr left by the cutter and that it would make a leaky seal.
Any body have any tips?
-- >>
Yes, deburr with deburring tool or whatever works. Use a drop of machine oil
or a touch of another lubricant on the cone of the flaring tool to get very
well finished flares.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flaring tubing |
> Is a double flare on aluminum acceptable or desireable?
> Or, will the aluminum crack where the lip gets folded in?
It'll break. Single flare is just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O-320 E3D |
Hi John:
I believe this comes under the heading of safety and is something you should
discuss with someone like Bart Lalonde. It may be ok but you should know for
sure.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>
> I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
> pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
> O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
> the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
> modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
> PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
> reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
> some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
> power output.
>
> Any personal experience out there?
>
> John Warren
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O-320 E3D |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>
> I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
> pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
> O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
> the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
> modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
> PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
> reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
> some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
> power output.
>
> Any personal experience out there?
>
> John Warren
> RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled the wrong way |
> I ran into a similar situation on a different part. Van's would
> not offer any advice. I performed the following experiment on
> a test strip:
[snip]
I think it probably depends on the size of the dimple, dies used, and maybe
other factors. I reverse dimpled one place where it seemed to come out okay
(non-structural area fortunately so I'm not worried about it). Another
place, unfortunately structural, the dimples cracked right out. Bottom line,
I wouldn't trust my life to any reverse dimples.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O-320 E3D |
Hi
I know of at a cherokee 151 converted to 160hp and it has done around 400hrs
with no problems i believe it was done per a STC
There is a web site which lists all the available STCs and what they apply
to and im pretty sure there is one about converting E3D to 160hp sorry i
cant think of the address but i think i found it from the FAA website
Dave Tennant
Australia
RV6 just the gear leag fairings to go and im ready to paint
>From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:33:36 -0800
>
>
>I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
>pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
>O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
>the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
>modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
>PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
>reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
>some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
>power output.
>
>Any personal experience out there?
>
>John Warren
>RV-6
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O-320 E3D |
Hi sorry for replying twice but i just found the website for the STC to
convert 320 E3D to 160 hp
http://av-info.faa.gov/stc
then search for textron lycoming
0-320 E2D
and it lists two stcs available to convert to 160 hp
hope this helps
ps i have converted my E2A to high comp
dave Tennant RV6
australia
>From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:33:36 -0800
>
>
>I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
>pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
>O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
>the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
>modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
>PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
>reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
>some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
>power output.
>
>Any personal experience out there?
>
>John Warren
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
> I just had a demo flight on the RV7... What
> was a little bit of a concern though was how fast the stall broke. There
is
> very little warning (other than the airspeed), and there is a rather sharp
> pitch down of the nose. I was wondering if it is appropriate to install a
> stall warning system on this type of aircraft, or is it just something RV
> pilots get used to.
I'm probably not one to comment as 99.9% of my hours have been in aircraft
WITHOUT an auxiliary stall warning system. When I'm in an aircraft with one,
it scares the hell out of me.
I believe most of the 3000 RV's that are flying don't have any stall warning
device. There is actually plenty of warning, or, I should say, there are
plenty of warning signs. You may have noticed on your demo flight that at
cruise or faster speeds, the controls are tight and responsive. As the
airplane slows down, things begin to get a little lose; still responsive,
but the controls are definitely telling you things are slowing down, if you
haven't already noticed. The RV wing airfoil designs are one of the many
things that make these great aircraft. They fly fast yet hang onto the air
when slow. And the "feel" of the airplane changes with the speed. Can you
inadvertently stall them? Of course. Would the stall warning horn prevent
that? Maybe. Is this a 'tricky' airfoil that can suddenly reach out and bit
you? No. Very well behaved. Slow flight is a delight in these airplanes
because of the control you have and the 'grip' of the wing. But a definite
feeling of slow on the controls. It still cracks me up to remember flying
formation with a J-3 Cub and not feeling like I was on the ragged edge.
Your new RV-7 will be one of the best airplanes you have ever flown. You
will be flying it more than you would if you were renting. Which means you
will be flying a lot more and consistently in the same airplane. It will
teach you a lot about flying, including paying attention to your airplane.
If you let it teach you. These airplanes have a tendency to make you a
better pilot. Once you're flying, you'll know what I mean. This includes
knowing how your airplane feels in slow flight, near stall, without that
horn distracting you from your business.
So: stall warning device? If you want one, you can put one on. These are,
after all, Experimental aircraft and it is your choice. Will you need it
after you get to know your airplane? Probably not.
IMHO only.
You are going to love your new airplane.........
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
580+ hours and getting to know her..............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
Wow! I'm glad I went with Ed Sterba last summer at less than half that
price and a 4 week wait. She told me something like 3 months plus wait
last summer. Maybe someone from that area has more info. Maybe she's in
the process of moving to Alaska.
David
do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV-List: Warnke Prop
>
> Is anyone else having a problem getting a prop from Margie Warnke at
> this time? I have been waiting since 8-10-2001 and am light in the
> pocket by $1,385.00. Am I being impatient or should I be concerned? I
> only get answering machine and no return phone call.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | dimpled the wrong way |
Van's told me that reverse dimpling is acceptable ONE TIME on structural
areas. I had dimpled my belly skins the wrong way where the splice strip
attaches. They told me I could reverse the dimples ONE TIME only. For what
it's worth.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: dimpled the wrong way
> I ran into a similar situation on a different part. Van's would
> not offer any advice. I performed the following experiment on
> a test strip:
[snip]
I think it probably depends on the size of the dimple, dies used, and maybe
other factors. I reverse dimpled one place where it seemed to come out okay
(non-structural area fortunately so I'm not worried about it). Another
place, unfortunately structural, the dimples cracked right out. Bottom line,
I wouldn't trust my life to any reverse dimples.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for SS tape for flaps |
> You could apply the UMHW tape to the bottom of your top wing skins where
the
> flaps will rub. Keep it hidden that way. The SS tape will develop
> scratches anyway. Go with the plastic and hide it under your wing.
I tried that; didn't work for me. The tape and/or whatever grit and dirt
gets under there started scuffing my paint in no time. I'd rather have
scuffed plastic than scuffed paint so I buffed it out before it got too bad
then put some tape on the flaps.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | stainless steel tape |
Rick,
It's on page 125 of my latest JCWhitney catalog. p/n is 12ZJ3581B for a
4.5" x 20' roll... $21.99. It also comes in 8 other widths.
This stuff is one of the best things I've ever tested for slicing fingers
wide open. I'll be wearing leather work gloves next time I burnish a piece
onto my flaps!
Vince Frazier
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Source for SS tape for flaps
>
Since Van's quit carrying SS tape, the archives said JCWhitney had it
but apparently they don't carry it any more. Looked through their web
site and didn't list it with all the other tapes they carry. Anyone
know of another source?
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O-320 E3D |
Bart built me up a E2D for 160hp...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>
> Hi John:
>
> I believe this comes under the heading of safety and is something you
should
> discuss with someone like Bart Lalonde. It may be ok but you should know
for
> sure.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Lyc O-320 E3D
>
>
> >
> > I've reviewed the archives for information on going to high compression
> > pistons on the O-320 E3D engine. I realize that this engine has the
> > O-235 front main bearing. However, no one on the list who has gone to
> > the HC pistons has indicated the number of hours flown with the
> > modification or their experience with it. Since the E3D was used on a
> > PA28-151 Warrior with a metal prop, it would seem to me that the
> > reduction in weight and rotational mass of a wood prop would counter
> > some of the possible adverse affect of the higher compression ratio and
> > power output.
> >
> > Any personal experience out there?
> >
> > John Warren
> > RV-6
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
John Warren
RV-6
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stall warning
>
>
> > I just had a demo flight on the RV7... What
> > was a little bit of a concern though was how fast the stall broke. There
> is
> > very little warning (other than the airspeed), and there is a rather
sharp
> > pitch down of the nose. I was wondering if it is appropriate to install
a
> > stall warning system on this type of aircraft, or is it just something
RV
> > pilots get used to.
>
> I'm probably not one to comment as 99.9% of my hours have been in aircraft
> WITHOUT an auxiliary stall warning system. When I'm in an aircraft with
one,
> it scares the hell out of me.
>
> I believe most of the 3000 RV's that are flying don't have any stall
warning
> device. There is actually plenty of warning, or, I should say, there are
> plenty of warning signs. You may have noticed on your demo flight that at
> cruise or faster speeds, the controls are tight and responsive. As the
> airplane slows down, things begin to get a little lose; still responsive,
> but the controls are definitely telling you things are slowing down, if
you
> haven't already noticed. The RV wing airfoil designs are one of the many
> things that make these great aircraft. They fly fast yet hang onto the air
> when slow. And the "feel" of the airplane changes with the speed. Can you
> inadvertently stall them? Of course. Would the stall warning horn prevent
> that? Maybe. Is this a 'tricky' airfoil that can suddenly reach out and
bit
> you? No. Very well behaved. Slow flight is a delight in these airplanes
> because of the control you have and the 'grip' of the wing. But a definite
> feeling of slow on the controls. It still cracks me up to remember flying
> formation with a J-3 Cub and not feeling like I was on the ragged edge.
>
> Your new RV-7 will be one of the best airplanes you have ever flown. You
> will be flying it more than you would if you were renting. Which means you
> will be flying a lot more and consistently in the same airplane. It will
> teach you a lot about flying, including paying attention to your airplane.
> If you let it teach you. These airplanes have a tendency to make you a
> better pilot. Once you're flying, you'll know what I mean. This includes
> knowing how your airplane feels in slow flight, near stall, without that
> horn distracting you from your business.
>
> So: stall warning device? If you want one, you can put one on. These are,
> after all, Experimental aircraft and it is your choice. Will you need it
> after you get to know your airplane? Probably not.
>
> IMHO only.
>
> You are going to love your new airplane.........
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> 580+ hours and getting to know her..............
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
John,
My flight instructor / FAA Examiner / Corporate Pilot / Citation Driver, who
I considered the finest pilot I have known did the same thing.
Jack Textor
RV8
DSM
Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
John Warren
RV-6
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stall warning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Just a reminder that those of us building the RV-8 have a built in stall
warning in the form of "tail shake". This is discussed in the archives and
in a past issue of the RVator.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
finishing right wing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: stall warning
>
>
> John,
> My flight instructor / FAA Examiner / Corporate Pilot / Citation Driver,
who
> I considered the finest pilot I have known did the same thing.
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> DSM
>
> Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
> I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
> who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
> warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
>
> John Warren
> RV-6
> LaCenter WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps |
>> You could apply the UMHW tape to the bottom of your top wing skins where
the
>> flaps will rub. Keep it hidden that way. The SS tape will develop
>> scratches anyway. Go with the plastic and hide it under your wing.
>I tried that; didn't work for me. The tape and/or whatever grit and dirt
>gets under there started scuffing my paint in no time. I'd rather have
>scuffed plastic than scuffed paint so I buffed it out before it got too bad
>then put some tape on the flaps.
Like Randall, I'm using the UHMW tape, but after 300 hours, the tape on the top
of my flaps started looking a little worn out. Lots of alum imbedded in the
tape that I couldn't clean out, and the edges were starting to life in places.
Since the airplane is down for an annual, I thought I'd take to take the time to
remove it and reapply new pieces. What a bad decision.....
I used heat to remove it, but it still peeled up some paint (of course it peeled
up right in the middle of a 3 color stripe). So I'm in the process of repainting
the flaps :-(
I'm going to reapply the tape, but I'm also going to apply some to the bottom of
the wing so it'll be UHMW to UHMW and hopefully won't mess up the tape on the
wing.
So much for a quick annual.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
I've enjoyed yet another heated debate on having the AOA, or not. Thanks,
guys! :-)
I've owned two airplanes that had stall warning devices. Both worked and
let me know when I was about to stall. Usually, that was about the time I
let the wheels touch terra firma at the end of each flight. With that, I
wondered about having one on my RV, or the lack of one. As I felt out my
new steed in it's early flights, I quickly found out that I really didn't
need one. I just needed to watch my ASI to be sure I didn't get too slow.
Now that I've got many flights and landings on it, I know the feel of the
stick when things aren't quite right with the world. I guess I'll never
install a device, now.
Granted, there are always going to be those who do not fly their airplanes
very often. If you fall into that group, you may be better off with some
kind of stall warning device. You won't have the feel of your airplane that
you should have because you chose to use your time for something other than
flying. Of course, I could say shame on you for neglecting your steed; but,
that would do no good. :-) Anyway, a stall warning device may be just the
ticket for you.
Then, there is the gadget man. He'll be the one with warning lights, timer
buzzers for tank switching, fuel flow analyzers, AOAs, computers lying in
the seats that test goodness knows what, etc., whether they are needed, or
not. I think that we should have the freedom to do that, if we want to;
but, I also wonder what happens when the electrons stop flowing at the time
the alternator fails. Hmmmm. I hope the gadget man hasn't learned to be
completely dependant on those puppies. :-)
You can debate this issue for years to come; but, the truth is that the
airplane will fly just fine with utmost safety if one learns to fly it and
keeps current in it. Otherwise, I'd suggest some whistles and bells to help
out where the lack of currency makes one fall short. It's all a matter of
what one wants. However, we must be careful that we don't become offensive
when we defend our reasons for having them, or not having them. As we know,
there are many more RVs out there tearing up the skies without the devices
than there are without. There is room for both.
One last thing. I was asked by a friend whether he should put an AOA on his
airplane. I told him I wouldn't; but, I also told him that was left up to
his warm fuzzy feeling level. I also suggested some test period time before
he did the installation to lessen his work load during the initial testing.
I didn't want him spending too much time on the AOA instead of learning the
feel of the airplane. That was about two years ago. He still hasn't
installed his AOA and may have sold it by now. I guess he found out that it
really is an easy airplane to fly, after all.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
Hi Mike;
Your best bet is to sell the old Stinson, add some
cool stuff to your RV and forget FAA/PMA for eternity.
For now, the tach can be repaired but more than likely
it's the cable. Good Luck!
Rob
--- Mike Nellis wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
>
>
> Thanks for the info Rob. The problem with 1947
> Stinson's is that they are
> certified and stuff like 'lectric tachs and such
> takes more paperwork and
> hassle than I'm willing to shell out at this point.
>
> Mike
> >
> > The fix, go to an electric tach. They WORK. By
> the
> > way, I have an automotive 2 1/4 electric ($15) on
> my
> > RV4 that has worked flawlessly for 4 years.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > N557RR
> >
> >
> > --- Mike Nellis wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
> > >
> > >
> > > I had the exact thing happen recently on my
> Stinson.
> > > The result? New Tach.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV4-List: tach
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> > > >
> > > > i have a question on the tach. while flying at
> > > 2400 rpm the tac made a
> > > > squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm.
> then
> > > went back down to normal.
> > > it
> > > > did it a few times. is it the tac going bad?
> or
> > > cable.
> > > >
> > > > thank you
> > > > dan carley
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > http://sports.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <13brv3(at)mchsi.com> |
Agreed. It would be hard to accidentally stall an -8. It would be really
interesting to see a comparison between the rate of stall/spin accidents in
the RV-8 vs other models. Hey Dan, are you still stuck in Chicago (hint,
hint ).
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 95 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
---------------------
Just a reminder that those of us building the RV-8 have a built in stall
warning in the form of "tail shake". This is discussed in the archives and
in a past issue of the RVator.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
finishing right wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Warnke Prop |
Hi Greg;
Margie refinished one of her Dad's props for me a
year ago and I got it back in a timely nature, however
I have heard of long delays. From what I have heard,
they are worth the wait. Her Dad's prop is THE best
prop I have tried on my -4, only slightly better
though than Craig Catto's composite I have on now(a
great prop)! If you need a 150HP (68X72)prop, I have a
Sterba you are welcomed to use as long as you need. I
keep it as a spare.
Rob Ray
N557RR
smokyray(at)yahoo.com
--- Greg Hunsicker wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>
> Is anyone else having a problem getting a prop
> from Margie Warnke at
> this time? I have been waiting since 8-10-2001 and
> am light in the
> pocket by $1,385.00. Am I being impatient or should
> I be concerned? I
> only get answering machine and no return phone call.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Kosta,
Even military pilots use AOA's on their jets. I think you can believe your
the best of the best and still get into a situation where distractions can
get in the way of your "feel" for the aircraft.
That's probably enough said, I don't think anyone who's mind is made up is
going to get it changed on this list.
John Warren
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: stall warning
>
>
> John,
> My flight instructor / FAA Examiner / Corporate Pilot / Citation Driver,
who
> I considered the finest pilot I have known did the same thing.
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> DSM
>
> Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
> I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
> who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
> warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
>
> John Warren
> RV-6
> LaCenter WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: stall warning
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Ok, My turn on this interesting thread...
I'm leaning on putting in an AOA but for reasons that has not been mentioned
yet... I have a couple of kids who will be learning to fly in this
airplane... as will my wife. I don't think comparing a stall warning horn
like found in a Warrior or 172 to an AOA is a fair comparison... these
things are much more useful than a horn and can be a great learning tool so
that the novice understands more about lift and how it changes with
different configurations of the plane.
Bottom line, I think I'm more worried about my kids than I am about myself.
I want to be able to give my son the keys to the plane and worry a little
less...
On the flip side... At this point in the building process (at the end), $800
for the AOA is a lot of money that I'd rather spend somewhere else.
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
Actually, the best bet is to FINISH the -6, take the Stinson apart and do a
ground up restoration on it then have two planes to fly.
Actually, the problem was with the tach. $350 later and it's fine now.
Mike
> Your best bet is to sell the old Stinson, add some
> cool stuff to your RV and forget FAA/PMA for eternity.
> For now, the tach can be repaired but more than likely
> it's the cable. Good Luck!
>
> Rob
> --- Mike Nellis wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the info Rob. The problem with 1947
> > Stinson's is that they are
> > certified and stuff like 'lectric tachs and such
> > takes more paperwork and
> > hassle than I'm willing to shell out at this point.
> >
> > Mike
> > >
> > > The fix, go to an electric tach. They WORK. By
> > the
> > > way, I have an automotive 2 1/4 electric ($15) on
> > my
> > > RV4 that has worked flawlessly for 4 years.
> > >
> > > Rob Ray
> > > N557RR
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Mike Nellis wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I had the exact thing happen recently on my
> > Stinson.
> > > > The result? New Tach.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
> > > > To:
> > > > Subject: RV4-List: tach
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> > > > >
> > > > > i have a question on the tach. while flying at
> > > > 2400 rpm the tac made a
> > > > > squeeling noise and jumped up to 2600 rpm.
> > then
> > > > went back down to normal.
> > > > it
> > > > > did it a few times. is it the tac going bad?
> > or
> > > > cable.
> > > > >
> > > > > thank you
> > > > > dan carley
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Contributions of
> > > > any other form
> > > >
> > > > latest messages.
> > > > other List members.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > http://sports.yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green |
In a message dated 02/20/2002 2:28:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I would advise strongly against using Simple Green or other unproven
> solvents. You will not be able to "test" a small spot first because the
> crazing action may take weeks to months to manifest itself. The acrylic is
> about 15% water by weight and applied solvents diffuse into the matrix
> slowly, displacing the water and finally, crazing the suface.
>
>
In this same vein, I had a deep scratch in my canopy from a stray tool, which
I polished out using the Micro Mesh scratch removal system. Unfortunately,
it left a bit of a flat spot on the canopy, as I probably confined the repair
to a rather small area, producing more than acceptable optical distortion.
Over the years, I have used mostly purpose-made plastic cleaners and polishes
on the canopy, but twice I used Lemon Pledge, after seeing it on the list.
Once I used bowling alley wax to try to reduce the fine scratches that
otherwise result when the canopy is dusted off prior to cleaning. One of
these two treatments seems to have caused fine crazing through ut the
repaired area within a few months. I don't know which it was. It is truly a
disgusting sight, since the area is already thin from the first repair, and
will not allow going after the crazing with abrasives. Either of these
treatments _may_ be safe, but personally I would never use pledge or paste
wax on a canopy again, after what happened. YMMV.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green |
> I would advise strongly against using Simple Green or other unproven
> solvents.
Check the archives. This has been discussed. Simple Green ain't that simple.
This stuff is OK for garage floors and the barbeque, but maybe not that good
for airplanes. It's the corrosion thing. If the Air Force tested it and said
"No", that's good enough for me.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
In a message dated 2/20/02 11:37:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jwdub(at)teleport.com writes:
<< Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
John Warren
RV-6 >>
John,
Does the AOA indicator you're looking at have a built in stall warning? If
not, I doubt it will be much good at preventing the type of accident you
describe. If I was in a tight situation (base to final turn, unusual
attitude, or whatever), I bet I'd be looking outside the aircraft and trying
to fly the beast, not looking at a panel mounted instrument. In one of those
tight situations, I *might* notice an audible stall warning device, but then
again, I *think* I would already be aware that I was in a very marginal
flight regime...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15 bucks and put it in.
Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to cost 150 to 200 bucks!
Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air cooled ,same as the VWs
were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it has to be redone............ on
automotive oil! So who is getting stuck paying for A/C oil at 4 bucks plus a
quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
The AoA by Proprietary Software has an audio warning, a voice that says
"Angle, Angle, Push!" if I recall correctly. I have flown in an aircraft
with a Lift Reserve Indicator, which was mounted on top of the glare shield
and was considered the primary flight instrument on landing. I don't recall
if it had an auditory warning or not, but the aircraft did stall exactly
when predicted by the instrument in all the flight modes that the
owner/pilot demonstrated.
Terry
>
> Does the AOA indicator you're looking at have a built in stall warning?
If
> not, I doubt it will be much good at preventing the type of accident you
> describe. If I was in a tight situation (base to final turn, unusual
> attitude, or whatever), I bet I'd be looking outside the aircraft and
trying
> to fly the beast, not looking at a panel mounted instrument. In one of
those
> tight situations, I *might* notice an audible stall warning device, but
then
> again, I *think* I would already be aware that I was in a very marginal
> flight regime...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:tach |
SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15 bucks and put it in.
> Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to cost 150 to 200 bucks!
> Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air cooled ,same as the VWs
> were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it has to be redone............ on
> automotive oil! So who is getting stuck paying for A/C oil at 4 bucks plus a
> quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
The automotive oil and tach oughta work just fine...........until you
try to get the insurance company to pay a claim after a forced landing
due to engine problems.......then the FAA will want to talk to you about
the little matter of flying with non-TSO'ed equipment.......then your
A&P will be in hot water because the FAA will want to check up on
previous repair history on the plane.....
Shoot.....that Porsche oil and tach sounds like a great bargain after
all!!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
The RV work shop was a very good value for me. It
took a big chunk out of the learning curve. I took
the class in Georgia. Ken from Van's was even there.
They introduce you to all the basic tools and
techniques - riveting (like preparing the leading edge
of a control surface).
The big take aways for me:
- what tools do what
- diffent riveting techniques (ESSENTIAL)
- The whole match drill process
- Introduced to Aircraft Spruce and Avery Tools
Some things that I didn't get from the class that I
would recommend investigating:
- fluting - not a big deal - just didn't know what it
was - see Bingelis books
- The value of a pneumatic squeezer (very helpful) -
all be it an expensive tool - worth its money. - check
the archives
- Priming - I spent a while trying to figure out what
works best for me - (Hindsight - A big "no" on Tempo
and it was worthwhile to buy a spray gun from a time
perspective) - check the archives and give the spray a
gun a try
- the pop rivet dimpler - used it near the folds in
the metal - lessens the likelihood of a putting a ding
in the sheet. - see Avery tools
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tach |
Amen brother! Throw in a little Marvel Mystery oil in
the gas & oil, no worries.
RR
--- SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
>
> If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15
> bucks and put it in.
> Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to
> cost 150 to 200 bucks!
> Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air
> cooled ,same as the VWs
> were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it has to
> be redone............ on
> automotive oil! So who is getting stuck paying for
> A/C oil at 4 bucks plus a
> quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N747ES moves |
Dear listers
just thought i'd share a milestone marker. today i slow taxied my rv6a under
its own power. the breaks are very grabby, i quess i need to glaze them with
a high speed taxi test. the electrical system all working! engine and
constant speed prop working!
paint and uphostery left whoooo hooooo
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N747ES moves |
> just thought i'd share a milestone marker. today i slow taxied my rv6a
under
> its own power. the breaks are very grabby, i quess i need to glaze them
with
> a high speed taxi test.
The brake discs come with paint on them - it is silver and easy to not
notice. I used lacquer thinner to remove it. It is on both sides of the
discs. That could cause grabiness, I suspect.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 91 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:tach |
You were doing fine until you started in with the non-TSOed bit. In all
likelihood the original instrument in the Stinson were world War 2 surplus,
made before TSO was invented. So a non-TSOed mechanical surplus tach is
probably o.k. AC made a bunch of them for the military.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:tach
SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15 bucks and put it in.
> Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to cost 150 to 200 bucks!
> Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air cooled ,same as the VWs
> were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it has to be redone............
on
> automotive oil! So who is getting stuck paying for A/C oil at 4 bucks
plus a
> quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
The automotive oil and tach oughta work just fine...........until you
try to get the insurance company to pay a claim after a forced landing
due to engine problems.......then the FAA will want to talk to you about
the little matter of flying with non-TSO'ed equipment.......then your
A&P will be in hot water because the FAA will want to check up on
previous repair history on the plane.....
Shoot.....that Porsche oil and tach sounds like a great bargain after
all!!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green |
Paul, I am also a fan of Simple Green. I searched for the article that
was posted by Navair concerning the Navy test on Simple Green but
haven't yet found it.
From what I can determine from quotes attributed to the article, bare
aluminum was immersed in Simple Green for two weeks, afterwhich it was
determined that corrosion had occurred.
So......what does that have to do with us using Simple Green to clean
the belly of a painted RV? Probably not much at all. The green stuff
never touches bare aluminum and is almost immediately wiped off the
plane.
However, I am afraid to use it on the canopy. Most of the time water and
a chamois is sufficient to remove bugs, especially if you get them right
after a flight.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6......ain't corroded.....yet.....)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
======================
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Ok, Ok...maybe a bad idea. Like I said in the original post, I have never
> tried it, but generally, it removes oil or grease very well. If it has a
> problem with alluminum, then I guess my airplane is about to fully corode
> away and fall apart...
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Glare Shield |
Looking for a little help from the RV-8 builders.
I was fitting my F-821 forward skin. The instructions indicate that
there is a scribe line to indicate a suggested location for trimming
an appropriate glare shield. Well I have been looking for the last
hour and I can not find a trim line to save my life, neither on the
top or the bottom.
Can one of you guys that have trimmed your glare shield send me some
measurements off list so that I have some idea where to start?
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N747ES moves |
both me and my hangar mate had to add shims to the brake pads to get
enough clearance, .025 was good. Replacement pads four years later also
needed the shims. It's a simple fix. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
As a general comment on mishap statistics along the lines of "RVs versus the
others", I would suggest most RV aircraft are flown rather more aggressively
with more "yank and bank" than the average Cessna or Piper ever sees. I know
I have done my share of "y and b" in my RV-3 that I wouldn't bother with in
a slow and sluggish 172. Thus any comparison is likely to be more of an
apples-oranges than apples-apples comparison. Intuitively, aerobatics,
overhead breaks, and low level formation passes at fly-ins (well, I've heard
rumors !) have to be more conducive to loss of control accidents than
straight and level cruise ending in a wide, sedate circuit.
RV's have a much larger speed range and considerably more responsive
controls than the average brand x spam can - so its easier to get into (and
out of) trouble of the high angle of attack sort plus general energy
management problems. No secrets here, just learn to fly the aircraft
properly throughout it's speed and angle of attach range, have an idea of
your limits and the airplane's limits, and don't attempt foolish things.
(That's probably reasonable advice when flying any aircraft - not just an
RV-x.). High time is no protection here.
Jim Oke
RV-3 (aka 'a very poor man's Mustang')
RV-6a (getting into that last 10/90% now)
CYWG
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stall warning
>
> Having just reviewed a lot of the NTSB files on RV-4 and RV-3 accidents,
> I've read several reports of accidents with high time qualified pilots
> who've made the ultimate mistake. IMHO perhaps with an AOA or stall
> warning, they would still be here. I'm installing an AOA in my 6.
>
> John Warren
> RV-6
> LaCenter WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: stall warning
>
>
> >
> >
> > > I just had a demo flight on the RV7... What
> > > was a little bit of a concern though was how fast the stall broke.
There
> > is
> > > very little warning (other than the airspeed), and there is a rather
> sharp
> > > pitch down of the nose. I was wondering if it is appropriate to
install
> a
> > > stall warning system on this type of aircraft, or is it just something
> RV
> > > pilots get used to.
> >
> > I'm probably not one to comment as 99.9% of my hours have been in
aircraft
> > WITHOUT an auxiliary stall warning system. When I'm in an aircraft with
> one,
> > it scares the hell out of me.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
both me and my hangar mate had to add shims to the brake pads to get
enough clearance, .025 was good. Replacement pads four years later also
needed the shims. It's a simple fix. Kevin
I also needed to put shims in. I could have lit a cigar on the rotors
after taxi they rubbed so bad. Fwiw
Steve
exbuilders.com
rvsteve(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | back riveting wing skins |
Listers, I bought from Avery an extra long die to back rivet wing skins. Has
anyone used this tool? Is there anything I need to know, other than to
practice on a few?
I read in the archives about an off set die, but did not see in catalogue.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | back rivet follow up... |
I am sorry. My die is off set slightly. My thoughts are to use typical air
pressure and the bucker would just hold flush the manufacture head tightly on
top of skin as I back rivet with the die forming the shop head. Suggestions
if there are any would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Jacobsen" <samjake1(at)compuserve.com> |
We are considering using an MT 3 blade on our O-360 powered RV-8 (still
under construction). Van's sold 5 of these props last year. Is there
anybody that actually has this combination flying? If so, what are your
comments about performance, noise, and vibration?
Sam Jacobsen
RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps |
So . . . do we go back to SS tape? I'm right at the point where I could
apply the tape, but now I'm rethinking what I want to use. I think the
silver SS tape looks kinda cool on the extended flaps. How did it hold up?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ going on week two the those #@*% baffles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> Like Randall, I'm using the UHMW tape, but after 300 hours, the tape on
the top of my flaps started looking a little worn out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine installation |
Fellow Listers,
Not too long ago, someone on the RV-List pointed out a great web site
with step by step procedures for installing a Lycoming on conical
mounts. I'm about ready to install my O320 on my -6A and I can't find
the site. Can anybody help?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB N11CB (Res)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N747ES moves |
>> just thought i'd share a milestone marker. today i slow taxied my rv6a >>
under its own power. the breaks are very grabby, i quess i need to
>> glaze them with a high speed taxi test.
Be sure the brake pedal assemblies are real loose. I found that my brakes
were just a tad too tight at the pedals, which caused the pucks to not back
off the disks properly. That caused the brakes to overheat and melted one
of the O rings in the brake calipers when I did my high speed taxi run. The
brakes are going to be somewhat sensitive; but, one gets used to that very
quickly.
>both me and my hangar mate had to add shims to the brake pads to get
>enough clearance, .025 was good. Replacement pads four years later >also
needed the shims. It's a simple fix. Kevin
I've installed two sets of liners in my brakes. I have added shims neither
time. Be aware that you're disks have a tolerance for thickness. One of
the reasons, I think, is to keep the pucks from coming out far enough to
allow leakage of the fluid. I'm not saying you shouldn't shim because one
brand of liners may be thicker than others. I used original equipment
replacements and didn't need the shims.
>I also needed to put shims in. I could have lit a cigar on the rotors
>after taxi they rubbed so bad. Fwiw
And this could have been caused by the brake pedal assemblies, as well.
I thought mine were loose enough when I put them together. Now, they are
sloppy loose and work like a charm. I guess the return spring on the
cylinders is still just a tad weak for the system, even though I put in the
newer and stronger ones.
>Where did you get the shims?
You can make them from scrap aluminum, if I remember correctly.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:tach |
> > If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15 bucks and put it >>
in. Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to cost 150 to 200
>> bucks! Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air
>> cooled ,same as the VWs were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it >>
has to be redone............ on automotive oil! So who is getting stuck >>
paying for A/C oil at 4 bucks plus a quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
>
>
> The automotive oil and tach oughta work just fine...........until you
> try to get the insurance company to pay a claim after a forced landing
> due to engine problems.......then the FAA will want to talk to you about
> the little matter of flying with non-TSO'ed equipment.......then your
> A&P will be in hot water because the FAA will want to check up on
> previous repair history on the plane.....
>
> Shoot.....that Porsche oil and tach sounds like a great bargain after
> all!!
>
I think Cy was correct on this one. TSO doesn't apply to us. I know most
of our airplanes are flying with non-TSOd stuff in them. I doubt that it
would be a factor to the insurance company, either. Remember, we are flying
experimental aircraft with experimental stuff in them. Otherwise you
wouldn't be seeing those little black boxes for engine monitoring, etc in
your panels. You'd be using antique technology gauges, etc. Of course, if
you're flying a commercially built airplane, the game changes considerably.
The Feds would frown on that auto parts store tach, then. For us, the auto
parts store is a treasure house of good stuff. :-)
As for the oil, there's a reason for what we use; but, I'm not sure I
totally agree with it. I don't pay $4 a quart, though. I'm cheap and buy
straight weight oil at half the price of the multi-weight oil. It works for
me!
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning (actual AOA experience) |
Kyle,
I believe that if you flew with a propietarey systems AOA that you would not
make your statements that are shown below. It is exactly when I use my AOA
when in the situations you describe. I am definitely looking outside but my
peripheral vision easily receives the light signals and I assure you that I
am a lot safer in those type situations. I am not saying that I will never
stall and spin, but I am definitely sold that my chances are reduced. I
believe in flying by touch but also believe we can use other sources to
reduce life threatening dangers when we are tired at the end of a 9 hour day
of flying.
Bernie Kerr, 6A with AOA, 260 hours
____________________________> not, I doubt it will be much good at
preventing the type of accident you
> describe. If I was in a tight situation (base to final turn, unusual
> attitude, or whatever), I bet I'd be looking outside the aircraft and
trying
> to fly the beast, not looking at a panel mounted instrument. In one of
those
> tight situations, I *might* notice an audible stall warning device, but
then
> again, I *think* I would already be aware that I was in a very marginal
> flight regime...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:tach |
I am going to replace the "$15.00" tach on my RV-6
ASAP. It registers about 1.3 hrs. for every hour I'm
in the air. Try explaining that to some prospective
buyer when the engine has 1000 hrs. on it and you try
to tell him it really has only about 770 hrs. At that
point,the $150-$200.00 tach seems relatively cheap.
--- Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> You were doing fine until you started in with the
> non-TSOed bit. In all
> likelihood the original instrument in the Stinson
> were world War 2 surplus,
> made before TSO was invented. So a non-TSOed
> mechanical surplus tach is
> probably o.k. AC made a bunch of them for the
> military.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair,
> Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List:tach
>
>
>
>
>
> SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for
> 15 bucks and put it in.
> > Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to
> cost 150 to 200 bucks!
> > Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air
> cooled ,same as the VWs
> > were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it has
> to be redone............
> on
> > automotive oil! So who is getting stuck paying
> for A/C oil at 4 bucks
> plus a
> > quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
>
>
> The automotive oil and tach oughta work just
> fine...........until you
> try to get the insurance company to pay a claim
> after a forced landing
> due to engine problems.......then the FAA will want
> to talk to you about
> the little matter of flying with non-TSO'ed
> equipment.......then your
> A&P will be in hot water because the FAA will want
> to check up on
> previous repair history on the plane.....
>
> Shoot.....that Porsche oil and tach sounds like a
> great bargain after
> all!!
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Propellers |
A friend of mine in Enid Ok has just completed the installation of the
3-bladed hydraulic MT prop on his 0-320 RV6. He went from wood to MT. He
has only one flight at this time, but is very impressed at this point.
His -6 is the 4th customer completed -6 and now has 1300 hours on it. He
does not subscribe to the list. I will visit with him and see if he would
give me some performance numbers to post or possibly give out his email
address.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Jacobsen" <samjake1(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: MT Propellers
>
> We are considering using an MT 3 blade on our O-360 powered RV-8 (still
> under construction). Van's sold 5 of these props last year. Is there
> anybody that actually has this combination flying? If so, what are your
> comments about performance, noise, and vibration?
> Sam Jacobsen
> RV-8 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv with 1300 hrs? |
jerry
could you ask your buddy to go through his airframe logbook and make a short
note of repairs made tot he airframe in those 1300 hours. i would, and i'm
sure those that are flying would also like to know what to watch for.
maybe you could post it to the list for us. whatch say?
scott
tampa
Taxiing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine installation |
check this site out. only i think it is a dynofocal mount.
scott
tampa
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/engi
nehanging.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Jims right, also check the caliper should float on the backplate pins
freely. Most commonly there is tension from the aluminum brake line
keeping the caliper from centering. But after that being said, mine was
still too tight. The .025 shim is just aluminum cut to fit between the
caliper halves and can be removed after a few thou of pad is gone. I
didn't even make mine cause an old mechanic on the field already had a
bunch on hand for use on cert aircraft that needed them..
Steve DiNieri
exbuilders.com
rvsteve(at)msn.com
> Be sure the brake pedal assemblies are real loose. I found that my
brakes
> were just a tad too tight at the pedals, which caused the pucks to not
> back
> off the disks properly. That caused the brakes to overheat and melted
one
> of the O rings in the brake calipers when I did my high speed taxi
run.
> The
> brakes are going to be somewhat sensitive; but, one gets used to that
very
> quickly.
>
> >both me and my hangar mate had to add shims to the brake pads to get
> >enough clearance, .025 was good. Replacement pads four years later
>also
> needed the shims. It's a simple fix. Kevin
>
> I've installed two sets of liners in my brakes. I have added shims
> neither
> time. Be aware that you're disks have a tolerance for thickness. One
of
> the reasons, I think, is to keep the pucks from coming out far enough
to
> allow leakage of the fluid. I'm not saying you shouldn't shim because
one
> brand of liners may be thicker than others. I used original equipment
> replacements and didn't need the shims.
>
> >I also needed to put shims in. I could have lit a cigar on the rotors
> >after taxi they rubbed so bad. Fwiw
>
> And this could have been caused by the brake pedal assemblies, as
well.
> I thought mine were loose enough when I put them together. Now, they
are
> sloppy loose and work like a charm. I guess the return spring on the
> cylinders is still just a tad weak for the system, even though I put
in
> the
> newer and stronger ones.
>
> >Where did you get the shims?
>
> You can make them from scrap aluminum, if I remember correctly.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
snip
>
> Listers, I bought from Avery an extra long die to back rivet wing skins.
Has
> anyone used this tool? Is there anything I need to know, other than to
> practice on a few?
>
snip
I used this rivet set on my wings with good results. My experience was that
the most important thing was to lightly guide the rivet set with one hand at
the rivet to ensure correct positioning. I also noticed that the air
presuure required varied up and down some with the length of the rivet set.
Practice on a few pieces first. FWIW I also back riveted the fuselage
wherever possible.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
All,
I have followed the environmental responses to the question, (which is a
personal issue).
There was a couple of articles in Aviation Consumer that discussed the
corrosion protection of different oils.
I think the question was: Has anyone used Elite and at what stage of the
engine's life was it started and what results have been shown. Also any info
from engine grurs (i.e. Lablonde).
Would anyone care to comment on these questions?
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
The stainless steel tape on my flaps looks like chrome plated buffalo crap,
but it is holding on after a couple thousand cycles. It has also ripped my
fingers few times, so I don't like it.
After a couple years I added a half inch strip of HMW tape to the upper
rubbing surface (on the overhanging wing skin), which seems to be a better
solution to the rubbing and sealing problem. Best part is it doesn't show.
DLW
on 2/20/02 22:40, Michael J. Robbins at kitfox(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> So . . . do we go back to SS tape? I'm right at the point where I could
> apply the tape, but now I'm rethinking what I want to use. I think the
> silver SS tape looks kinda cool on the extended flaps. How did it hold up?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ going on week two the those #@*% baffles
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>
>
>> Like Randall, I'm using the UHMW tape, but after 300 hours, the tape on
> the top of my flaps started looking a little worn out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:tach |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> > > If I were you I,d go with the automotive tach for 15 bucks and put it >>
> in. Ain,t no way in hell that an aircraft tach has to cost 150 to 200
> >> bucks! Crazy!!! Same as the oil!!! My 911 Porsche is air
> >> cooled ,same as the VWs were ,and it will go 300,000 miles before it >>
> has to be redone............ on automotive oil! So who is getting stuck >>
> paying for A/C oil at 4 bucks plus a quart?!!! Us pilots........ Geo
> >
> >
> > The automotive oil and tach oughta work just fine...........until you
> > try to get the insurance company to pay a claim after a forced landing
> > due to engine problems.......then the FAA will want to talk to you about
> > the little matter of flying with non-TSO'ed equipment.......then your
> > A&P will be in hot water because the FAA will want to check up on
> > previous repair history on the plane.....
> >
> > Shoot.....that Porsche oil and tach sounds like a great bargain after
> > all!!
> >
>
> I think Cy was correct on this one. TSO doesn't apply to us. I know most
> of our airplanes are flying with non-TSOd stuff in them. I doubt that it
> would be a factor to the insurance company, either. Remember, we are flying
> experimental aircraft with experimental stuff in them. Otherwise you
> wouldn't be seeing those little black boxes for engine monitoring, etc in
> your panels. You'd be using antique technology gauges, etc. Of course, if
> you're flying a commercially built airplane, the game changes considerably.
> The Feds would frown on that auto parts store tach, then. For us, the auto
> parts store is a treasure house of good stuff. :-)
>
> As for the oil, there's a reason for what we use; but, I'm not sure I
> totally agree with it. I don't pay $4 a quart, though. I'm cheap and buy
> straight weight oil at half the price of the multi-weight oil. It works for
> me!
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Technical Counselor
Jim, the original post referenced the tach in a Stinson which is of
course a certificated aircraft, and that was the point of my reply. Cy's
reply was in reference to the Stinson receiving its certification before
the TSO order was initiated, hence it *might* be acceptable to use an
identical, non-TSO'ed tach in the Stinson.
You are correct that an RV with an experimental certificate is not
required to use TSO'ed instruments.
By the way, I buy Aeroshell W100 at a local distributor for $21.50 per
case (12).
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps |
I wouldn't. I've used both. I had the SS tape on for about 3 years and it
got scratched up and shoddy-looking very quickly. When I painted the plane
(for the astute readers, yes it took 3 years - I was having too much fun
flying) I installed a wide piece on the flaps and a narrow piece on the
underside of the wing skin so there was only tape to tape contact. That was
2 years ago and the tape is still in great shape.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
> So . . . do we go back to SS tape? I'm right at the point where I could
> apply the tape, but now I'm rethinking what I want to use. I think the
> silver SS tape looks kinda cool on the extended flaps. How did it hold
up?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ going on week two the those #@*% baffles
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>
>
> > Like Randall, I'm using the UHMW tape, but after 300 hours, the tape on
> the top of my flaps started looking a little worn out.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Glare Shield |
Vincent,
I found mine and made the cut a couple months ago. I remember having to
clean the top surface and hold out in the sunlight in order to see it. It
appears as a series of dashed score marks. My builder # is 80907. If yours
is after mine, you should have it. At any rate, I will look tonight and send
some measurements.
Bill Christie, RV8A Finish, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent Welch <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Glare Shield
>
> Looking for a little help from the RV-8 builders.
>
> I was fitting my F-821 forward skin. The instructions indicate that
> there is a scribe line to indicate a suggested location for trimming
> an appropriate glare shield. Well I have been looking for the last
> hour and I can not find a trim line to save my life, neither on the
> top or the bottom.
>
> Can one of you guys that have trimmed your glare shield send me some
> measurements off list so that I have some idea where to start?
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A Fuselage
> Roaming Shores, Ohio
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine installation /couldn't get on?any other sites? |
any other sites for hanging engine?
Jerry Wilken
Albany, OR.
RV6a N699WP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Graves" <cgraves(at)secor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning (actual AOA experience) |
I believe that Keith Hughes is absolutely correct. Learning to feel the
airplane is so terribly
important. Money better spent would be on some advanced spin training and
maybe a little acro
as well. You might be interested to know that most aerobatic airplanes do
not have stall warning indicators
even though much of the time is spent flying on the verge of a stall.
(Certified Pitts aircraft have them but, Sukhoi's, Zivko Edge 540's,
Staudachers, and YAK 's do not)
Chuck Graves
N944G
N1766
N5351N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | testing AN couplings |
I seem to lack confidence in the tubing connections I am making with the AN
joints with the fuel and brake lines. I am being very careful (anal) with
the cuts and making clean flairs, but it would be nice to know if they leak
before I run fuel and brake fluid through them. What are you folks doing to
test the AN tubing joints for leaks?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | FW: AeroElectric-List: Navaid (was: Looking for 2-8 switch ) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Holyoke [mailto:bicyclop(at)pacbell.net]
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Navaid (was: Looking for 2-8 switch )
the manufacturer of my engine monitor strongly recommends interrupting
power
to that unit during engine start.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
Speaking of which, I had a little problem when I was mocking up my
Navaid autopilot installation. It doesn't like low voltages. I'm using
and old car battery for power and the Navaid came up showing about 2 to
3 bars of right turn whenever I engaged the servo. I called the company
and spoke to Richard about it. He said that the guy who designed it (and
later sold the company), set it up to regulate internally at 11 volts
and that it needs some voltage headroom. These things won't operate
reliably at 12 volts so if you lose your alternator, you lose your
autopilot (and possibly your primary turn coordinator as well). It runs
fine with a battery charger hooked up to the battery. I'm going to be
running all electric and dual lightspeeds, so this is kinda pushing me
over the top to run a backup alternator as well. I've just got to decide
if I'm going to run 2 batteries also.
They also say that the Navaid "must" be switched off during startup. I
forgot to ask Richard why. Has anybody been running their Navaid
unswitched? I'd rather not make room for another switch (and another
item on the startup checklist) if I don't need to.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | testing AN couplings |
Well you could do what we do and that is fill them with hydraulic fluid and
pump them up to 2000 PSI with a hand pump.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: testing AN couplings
I seem to lack confidence in the tubing connections I am making with the AN
joints with the fuel and brake lines. I am being very careful (anal) with
the cuts and making clean flairs, but it would be nice to know if they leak
before I run fuel and brake fluid through them. What are you folks doing to
test the AN tubing joints for leaks?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | early "3" drawings |
I have an early 3 fuselage but only a set of plans from 1984. The two don't
look just alike. If anyone has plans from the '70's and wouldn't mind a
question or two please contact me off list. Van's doesn't appear interested
in the subject.
Thanks,
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: AeroElectric-List: Navaid (was: Looking for 2-8 switch |
)
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> They also say that the Navaid "must" be switched off during startup. I
> forgot to ask Richard why. Has anybody been running their Navaid
> unswitched? I'd rather not make room for another switch (and another
> item on the startup checklist) if I don't need to.
>
> Ed Holyoke
> RV-6
The Navaid guys may have a good reason for insisting that their unit not
be powered up at startup, but mine has nearly 350 uneventful unswitched
hours on it.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine installation |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Hang your tops & leave the threads just started. don't forget the bolt
lengths & the washers on the lowers.
The first lower is easy, but the forth one on the bottom is the worst. I
used a pry bar, but watch what you use to pry against.
After they are all started, just bring em up together.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> Not too long ago, someone on the RV-List pointed out a great web
> site
> with step by step procedures for installing a Lycoming on conical
> mounts. I'm about ready to install my O320 on my -6A and I can't
> find
> the site. Can anybody help?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB N11CB (Res)
> San Antonio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> |
| Subject: | testing AN fittings |
Know what you mean. I used an automotive vaccum tester and some AN929 caps.
Rigged up a hose-to- AN fitting on the vaccum pump, capped off the side of
the gascolator that goes to the carb, then went to each side of the fuse.
and hooked up the vaccum tester to the fuel line that was hangn' out waiting
for the wings, turned the fuel selector to the approp. side and pulled
about 30lbs of vaccum. Let it sit overnight and saw no drop in vaccum, so
I'm assuming I'm ok.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv with 1300 hrs? |
I will get with him and see what he thinks.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv with 1300 hrs?
>
> jerry
> could you ask your buddy to go through his airframe logbook and make a
short
> note of repairs made tot he airframe in those 1300 hours. i would, and i'm
> sure those that are flying would also like to know what to watch for.
> maybe you could post it to the list for us. whatch say?
> scott
> tampa
> Taxiing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green |
In a message dated 2/20/02 6:34:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
<< If it has a problem with alluminum, then I guess my airplane is about to
fully corode away and fall apart... >>
And I have parts that were degreased with the stuff before priming over seven
years ago and they show zip indication of corrosion. However, I would not
use Simple Green to clean assembled parts where it might get between surfaces
where it could not be flushed away, any more than I would use any etching
chemical in those areas. Just my $0.02 (or less) worth.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Propellers |
As may know Jon Johanson's last world trip was made with a three blade MT
prop.
Last year I made the point to ask him about the preformance of this prop in
comparison to the Sensenich prop used on the previous 'runs'.
The three comments he made which stuck with me were:
1. The Sensinech prop was extraordinarily good for the task and encouraged
me to stay with my fixed pitch prop for the sake of simplicity and cost.
2. The MT prop he initially had fitted (indentified to me only in that it had
rounded tips) proved to be no more efficient than the original Sensinich and
Jon was considering removing it.
3. When MT was made aware of this they replaced it with a square tipped prop
which gave a significant improvement in efficiency.
Now I have no hard numbers and these comments are 'what I heard' out of the
discussion.
Doug Gray
RV-6 Fuse
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> A friend of mine in Enid Ok has just completed the installation of the
> 3-bladed hydraulic MT prop on his 0-320 RV6. He went from wood to MT. He
> has only one flight at this time, but is very impressed at this point.
> His -6 is the 4th customer completed -6 and now has 1300 hours on it. He
> does not subscribe to the list. I will visit with him and see if he would
> give me some performance numbers to post or possibly give out his email
> address.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing RV-4 |
Any suggestions on the following would be appreciated
Oil filter setup for 0-320A2B?
Removal of scratches or light crazing on canopy
Has anyone ever rigged up banner tow for personal use?
I did recently add on M-20 #300 oil separator and it works terrific.
Money well spent.
Greg Hunsicker
N320WS @90KS Sunset Strip private airpark near Topeka, KS
Thanks in advance for any advice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I suspect that your Operating Restrictions are like everyone else's, that
is, there is a specific prohibition against banner towing for all
Experimental aircraft. I doubt that doing it for personal, rather than
commercial, reasons makes any difference. Just to be on the safe side I
would take a VERY close look at my operating limiations attached to my
airworthiness certificate.
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing RV-4 |
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing RV-4 |
Wasn't that a tow hook that I saw on the tail of the factory RV-7 at
Arlington last year? I don't think it was an arrestor hook for carrier
landings.
Terry
> #2....Structure - I'd be reluctant to set an RV up for that purpose.
Having
> installed LOTS of tow-hooks on Citabrias, Scout's etc.. I think you'd need
> to really modify the tail for that purpose. Most banner towing planes
have
> a steel tube fuselage which the hook or cable assembly bolts directly too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James J. Varney" <jvarney(at)vfpi.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Servo |
February 15, 2002 - February 21, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mj