RV-Archive.digest.vol-mk
February 21, 2002 - February 28, 2002
I posted details of my elevator trim tab servo
installation here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/files/Trim%20Tab%20Servo/
If anyone has questions or can't get to the files,
email me: jvarney(at)vfpi.com and I'll send it to ya zipped.
Hope this helps.
James J Varney
RV-7A N53JV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Terry Watson wrote: "Wasn't that a tow hook that I saw on the tail of the
factory RV-7 at Arlington last year?"
Terry,
I don't know if Van ever put a glider hook on the RV-7, but N129RV, the
RV-9A prototype had a glider towing hook when displayed at Oshkosh in 2000.
You can see a picture of it on page 4 of the third issue, 2000 of the
RVator.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing RV-4 |
I'm planning on mounting a tow hook on my RV-7 as well, but not for
towing. It'll be a backup anchor if I ever have to hand-prop it when
i'm alone. Possibly a very low probability of use, but immensely
reassuring to have if you ever have to hand-prop...
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
Terry Watson wrote:
>
>Wasn't that a tow hook that I saw on the tail of the factory RV-7 at
>Arlington last year? I don't think it was an arrestor hook for carrier
>landings.
>
>Terry
>
>
>>#2....Structure - I'd be reluctant to set an RV up for that purpose.
>>
>Having
>
>>installed LOTS of tow-hooks on Citabrias, Scout's etc.. I think you'd need
>>to really modify the tail for that purpose. Most banner towing planes
>>
>have
>
>>a steel tube fuselage which the hook or cable assembly bolts directly too.
>>
>
>
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing |
RV-4
Hi Greg;
First, I set up my -4 with the stock Lycoming oil
filter on the accessory case, mainly because I had
already bought one when I rebuilt my 0-320 dash nada.
The AirWolf is a good setup as well. I would avoid the
automotive setups as they don't have by-pass
capability. I also spent my youth towing banners in
everything from Cubs to Scouts and can tell you that
any speed much over 70 rips the letters to shreds.
Also, the cyllinder temps and oil temps run high, even
with big, open cowlings. The -4 was designed to cool
at much higher speeds. Getting the hook and excess
cable free of the aircraft with no open windows would
be a challenge as well. Do what you want, but I
wouldn't be towing banners with my -4. The Air Force
uses a plastic polish on the F16 canopy outside. There
are a couple of companies that polish out crazing on
airliner windows...try the web.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Greg Hunsicker wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>
> Any suggestions on the following would be
> appreciated
>
> Oil filter setup for 0-320A2B?
> Removal of scratches or light crazing on canopy
> Has anyone ever rigged up banner tow for personal
> use?
>
> I did recently add on M-20 #300 oil separator and it
> works terrific.
> Money well spent.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
> N320WS @90KS Sunset Strip private airpark near
> Topeka, KS
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | RV 3 drawings/ thanks |
Thanks for the responses to my request for early 3 plans. I'm sure happy to
find the owners ready to help on the early 3's even if the factory is not.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
The hook is for spin testing or aerobatic testing. They can recover with a
chute if they get into a bad corner of the envelope and then cut the chute
loose for a normal landing.
Dave Burton
RV6, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: glider hook
>
> Terry Watson wrote: "Wasn't that a tow hook that I saw on the tail of the
> factory RV-7 at Arlington last year?"
>
> Terry,
>
> I don't know if Van ever put a glider hook on the RV-7, but N129RV, the
> RV-9A prototype had a glider towing hook when displayed at Oshkosh in
2000.
> You can see a picture of it on page 4 of the third issue, 2000 of the
> RVator.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> fitting cowl
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/19/2002 4:34:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com writes:
> Anybody else
> using this or have an opinion on the benefits?
Die Exxon!! Never forget the Valdez!!
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: AeroElectric-List: Navaid (was: Looking for 2-8 switch |
)
In a message dated 2/21/2002 11:00:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
> They also say that the Navaid "must" be switched off during startup. I
> forgot to ask Richard why. Has anybody been running their Navaid
> unswitched? I'd rather not make room for another switch (and another
> item on the startup checklist) if I don't need to.
I've got 501 unswitched hours on mine. No problem.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N747ES moves |
In a message dated 2/21/2002 3:23:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
> Be sure the brake pedal assemblies are real loose. I found that my brakes
> were just a tad too tight at the pedals, which caused the pucks to not back
> off the disks properly. That caused the brakes to overheat and melted one
> of the O rings in the brake calipers when I did my high speed taxi run.
> The
> brakes are going to be somewhat sensitive; but, one gets used to that very
> quickly.
Make sure that when you release the pedal, your brake masters reach their
FULL extension in order to release the internal check valve. Friction or
binding of the pedal mechanism and/or weak master springs may contribute to
excessive brake drag. Another good thing to do, especially if you have a
parking brake valve, is to change from Nitrile (Buna-n) to Viton O-rings on
the caliper pistons. They can take the heat soak even when you throw the
parking brake on right after taxiing in from a hot landing on a high altitude
short runway. The Nitrile ones can't take the heat and will take a flat set
that will start leaking soon after.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
How can you tell if the auxiliary fuel pump is on with a fuel injected
engine? Will the fuel pressure reading (taken after the mechanical pump)
show an increase? Or should I put an indicator light in the circuit
somewhere? I'm using the Infinity stick grip with an on-off button, so it
is not immediately clear like a switch. I assumed that I would be able to
tell from the fuel pressure gauge - but I'm not sure.
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/19/2002 7:14:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com writes:
> Prior to beginning my Phase I flight test period, I
> would like to get some approximate V speeds for
> reference.
>
> Most of them I have. I am looking for the following:
>
> Vx
> Vy
> Best Glide
>
Vx around 90mph
Vy around 105mph
Best Glide about 12:1 L/D around 106mph
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
Not to mention the addtional loads and strain you put on your engine and
airframe
-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:fasching(at)amigo.net]
Subject: RV-List: Banner Tow ?
I suspect that your Operating Restrictions are like everyone else's, that
is, there is a specific prohibition against banner towing for all
Experimental aircraft. I doubt that doing it for personal, rather than
commercial, reasons makes any difference. Just to be on the safe side I
would take a VERY close look at my operating limiations attached to my
airworthiness certificate.
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing |
RV-4
If you use the right filter, then you DO have by-pass in an automotive type
filter setup. Using the remote filter adapter from NAPA with a Champion
Filter # CH49108 is fine as the FILTER has a built-in by-pass valve.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner
towing RV-4
Hi Greg;
First, I set up my -4 with the stock Lycoming oil
filter on the accessory case, mainly because I had
already bought one when I rebuilt my 0-320 dash nada.
The AirWolf is a good setup as well. I would avoid the
automotive setups as they don't have by-pass
capability. I also spent my youth towing banners in
everything from Cubs to Scouts and can tell you that
any speed much over 70 rips the letters to shreds.
Also, the cyllinder temps and oil temps run high, even
with big, open cowlings. The -4 was designed to cool
at much higher speeds. Getting the hook and excess
cable free of the aircraft with no open windows would
be a challenge as well. Do what you want, but I
wouldn't be towing banners with my -4. The Air Force
uses a plastic polish on the F16 canopy outside. There
are a couple of companies that polish out crazing on
airliner windows...try the web.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Greg Hunsicker wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>
> Any suggestions on the following would be
> appreciated
>
> Oil filter setup for 0-320A2B?
> Removal of scratches or light crazing on canopy
> Has anyone ever rigged up banner tow for personal
> use?
>
> I did recently add on M-20 #300 oil separator and it
> works terrific.
> Money well spent.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
> N320WS @90KS Sunset Strip private airpark near
> Topeka, KS
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pump on? |
>
>How can you tell if the auxiliary fuel pump is on with a fuel injected
>engine? Will the fuel pressure reading (taken after the mechanical pump)
>show an increase? Or should I put an indicator light in the circuit
>somewhere? I'm using the Infinity stick grip with an on-off button, so it
>is not immediately clear like a switch. I assumed that I would be able to
>tell from the fuel pressure gauge - but I'm not sure.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Parker
Parker,
At sea level, my IO-360 shows a slight increase in fuel pressure when the
electric pump is on. The higher the altitude, the greater the
difference. Having a light that shows the on/off function of your aux.fuel
pump is not as important as having a light that shows the
malfunctioning of your engine driven pump.
The builder of my aircraft, Pete Fountain, flies crop dusters for a living.
He, more than most other types of pilots, is very aware of the functioning
of all the systems of his aircraft at ALL times. He (and probably all other
ag pilots) has built up instinctive and immediate reactions to malfunctions.
When I made the prepurchase examination of Pete's RV-4, he explained a lot
to me about the functions of the injected engines and how he designed his
aircraft to handle them. I don't want to bore those of you who have been
flying behind injected engines all your lives. But for the rest of us, here
is what Pete decided to do: On the far left and far right of the upper
portion of the panel are two large (1" dia.) red warning lights. The left
is a canopy open light. The right light is a low oil pressure /low fuel
pressure light. On a panel between my legs are the fuel tank gauges.
Between them is a larger fuel pressure gauge. On the floor between the
gauge and the stick is a large rocker switch for the aux. fuel pump. Next
to it are the ignition toggle switches and starter button. Every thing
about the set up is well conceived and implemented.
The key is that if your engine EVER stops or sputters, the FIRST thing you
do is to hit the aux. fuel pump switch. It should be easy to see and easy
to use. The fuel pressure warning light will probably light up before the
engine goes dead. At 10-12,000 ft, my light sometimes goes on because the
engine fuel pump pressure is pretty low. If I turn on the aux. pump, the
pressure goes back up to 20+ psi. I haven't tried to see if the engine will
die from the low pressure at high altitudes, but I'm sure others on this
list can fill in these blanks. I'll bet that some of the electronic gurus
like G.V. or Electric Bob could tell us how to insert a gizmo that produces
a clicking in the headset when the pump is on. Mine does that at idle RPM
on the ground. I can't hear it when power is added, but a creative
electronic guy can fix that. Good luck with your installation.
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner towing |
RV-4
This is the same setup I installed on my RV-6 and works great. However, I
originally used a auto filter thinking if it was good enough for a car good
enough for a plane. NOT! At the first undercowl check during test flight
phase, I discovered the filter badly bulged. I was a heart beat away from
loosing the engine due to what would have been a massive oil loss. Lesson
learned, and a 49108 fits the filter mount perfectly. I was extremely lucky.
Fly safe.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: oil filter, canopy scratches and banner
>towing RV-4
>Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:31:19 -0600
>
>
>If you use the right filter, then you DO have by-pass in an automotive type
>filter setup. Using the remote filter adapter from NAPA with a Champion
>Filter # CH49108 is fine as the FILTER has a built-in by-pass valve.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shims in brake calipers |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
In my RV-6A the symptoms are that the brakes stay slightly engaged after
taxiing. When I go to put the airplane away I can hear the pads rubbing
on the disks and have to exert additional effort to move it. After the
brakes have cooled down they once again move freely.
Does anybody else experience this? After 80 hours on the airplane I
would think the clearances would be enough to counteract any thermal
expansion.
--
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
Since I live near the coast in the southeast, minimizing or preventing
internal corrosion in the engine is an important subject. I've just found
out that my engine needs a major overhaul due to a worn/pitted/rusted
camshaft. So, now that my wallet is also fixing to get a major overhaul, I
would like to try and protect my soon-to-be freshly overhauled O-320.
Given that Exxon is a horrible, eeeeevil, destroyer-of-all-that-is-good,
typical greedy, profiteering, capitalist-pig enterprise, I am also
interested in knowing if anyone on the "list" has any experience with Exxon
Elite and its claims of better protection against internal corrosion.
I've heard that unless you absolutely need the multi-grade stuff due to cold
wx, the Aeroshell 50w "clings" better to the innards and gives a longer
lasting protective coating of oil.
Also, any opinions on Avblend, or this "X1R" stuff I hear about?
I realize that there's no substitute for frequent flying at proper operating
temp, but, especially in the winter, VFR flying weather and off-days aren't
always in sync.
Randy Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
It might also be for glider towing. Van is an active member of the
Willamette Valley Soaring Club. One of the staffers told me that was the
purpose, not sure if he was kidding or not.
Randy Lervold
> The hook is for spin testing or aerobatic testing. They can recover with
a
> chute if they get into a bad corner of the envelope and then cut the chute
> loose for a normal landing.
>
> Dave Burton
> RV6, wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: glider hook
>
>
> >
> > Terry Watson wrote: "Wasn't that a tow hook that I saw on the tail of
the
> > factory RV-7 at Arlington last year?"
> >
> > Terry,
> >
> > I don't know if Van ever put a glider hook on the RV-7, but N129RV, the
> > RV-9A prototype had a glider towing hook when displayed at Oshkosh in
> 2000.
> > You can see a picture of it on page 4 of the third issue, 2000 of the
> > RVator.
> >
> > Chris Heitman
> > Dousman WI
> > RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> > fitting cowl
> > http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: AeroElectric-List: Navaid (was: Looking for 2- |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>They also say that the Navaid "must" be switched off during startup. I
>forgot to ask Richard why. Has anybody been running their Navaid
>unswitched? I'd rather not make room for another switch (and another
>item on the startup checklist) if I don't need to.
>
>
I'm running my Navaid, Vision monitoring system, microEncoder and Narco
Nav unit all unswitched (the Narco on/off switch doesn't work). No
problems.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
If you really want to fix the cam pitting problem, which BTW, is endemic in
Lycomings because the cam sits above the crank and doesn't get good
lubrication at startup, look into having Ney nozzles added to your case at
overhaul. The nozzles provide direct oil spray onto the cam.
FMI, http://www.chuckneyent.com/nozzle.asp
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Compton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exxon Elite
Since I live near the coast in the southeast, minimizing or preventing
internal corrosion in the engine is an important subject. I've just found
out that my engine needs a major overhaul due to a worn/pitted/rusted
camshaft. So, now that my wallet is also fixing to get a major overhaul, I
would like to try and protect my soon-to-be freshly overhauled O-320.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shims in brake calipers |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 2/22/02 09:28, John Allen at fliier(at)onebox.com wrote:
>
> In my RV-6A the symptoms are that the brakes stay slightly engaged after
> taxiing. When I go to put the airplane away I can hear the pads rubbing
> on the disks and have to exert additional effort to move it. After the
> brakes have cooled down they once again move freely.
>
> Does anybody else experience this? After 80 hours on the airplane I
> would think the clearances would be enough to counteract any thermal
> expansion.
Brakes are on my mind, since I am about to renew my pads for the third time.
The present set has 620 landings on it. The other two sets lasted about
four to five hundred. I consider the brakes on the RV-6 to be another great
van design. They work very well, are virtually trouble free (Once you get
past the initial adjustment), last a long time, and are a breeze to do
maintenance on. A pretty tough combination!
In my personal experience with RV-6 and 6A, this is a very common problem.
The 6A is the worst case scenario, because most of us tend to ride the
brakes a little at first, and a dragging brake is very hard to detect while
taxiing.
In 100% of my cases I have checked, I have seen a failure to fully
return to the aft position on the brake pedals. This can be caused by ,
either too much friction in the pedals or cylinders, weak springs, or both.
If you have two sets of brakes, your odds of having this are doubled.
The way to verify this is to reach in and pull all the pedals aft. They
should not move at all. If one moves, go back and push the plane and see if
this cures the dragging problem. If it does not, you may need a shim or
some other solution. Don't know because I have yet to get any further in
the trouble shooting in my 10 or twenty cases of checking.
The cure is to loosen the nuts and bolts a little, lube well, and somehow
strengthen the springs. You can sometimes stretch them or you can perhaps
get Tom Green to send you some new ones which have always worked to fix the
problem for me.
Be sure and check the pads, calipers and rotors, too, if you have this
problem. Dragging brakes can cause premature wear, warped disks, and
sometimes O ring failure, or fire.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Special tool was: Hinge pin length |
>I too went with the split pins, but found that it would be impossible
to
install the pins after assembly without dorking up my paint.
Bob Hasson
Tucson, AZ
RV-6A N606BH (156 hours)
>I did the "cut hinge pin in half, insert in two pieces from centre" mod
>myself. It works fine - until the top wings skins are on and the wings
are
>on the fuselage. Then I find it quite difficult to get into the gap
>around the curved forward section of the flap to install the hinge pin.
No,
>my fingers are not especially fat, it's just they're not 8 inches long!
My
>hinge is set so that max reasonable flap movement is about 60 degs or
so.
If
>the flap when it 90 digs this would make things a lot easier but the
wing
>flap gap would have to be much larger (and uglier).
>
>Has anyone come up with a clever tool or gadget to assist with this
job?
>Jim Oke
>RV-3
>RV-6A
OK, I made the special tool last night.
When the flap is down 90 degrees there's enough room to start the pin,
but it's really hard to push in until you put the flap up. Then the
hinge eyes line up a lot better but your hand no longer fits. What's
needed is tool that keeps the hinge pin straight while you push it in.
My pins have bent ends which I insert into holes drilled into the flap
spar for locking. But how to get them in?
I put in the outboard hinge half first. I could only just get the
inboard hinge started and couldn't push it home. I cast about the shop
and stumbled across a piece of 3/4" copper pipe left over from plumbing
my shop air. With the aileron (short) pushrod off and the aileron
hanging down out of the way, I pushed the copper pipe over the bent end
of the pin and to about an inch short of the center of flap (so as to
not kink it where it goes into the hinge eye). Then, on a second cast
about the shop, low and behold, I found a 5/8" dowel that I had used for
bending leading edges of elevators which fits nicely in the copper pipe.
Put the flap up, hold the pipe, push the dowel - went in very easy.
I haven't tried it, but a variation should work on the outboard half:
Start the pin as (much as you can get), put a string with loop tied into
the end over the bend and feed the pipe over it. You might have to tape
the string on the bend to keep it from sliding down and off the pin.
Then close up the flap with the pipe and string where your hand won't
fit anymore. When you pull the string, the pipe will keep the pin
straight and prevent the string from coming off till the deed is done.
Removal is real easy: String on pin, close flap, pull, repeat, flap
falls into waiting hand.
Ed Holyoke
6qb N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> If you really want to fix the cam pitting problem, which BTW, is endemic
in
> Lycomings because the cam sits above the crank and doesn't get good
> lubrication at startup, look into having Ney nozzles added to your case at
> overhaul. The nozzles provide direct oil spray onto the cam.
Gee, golly. I have a set of Ney nozzles in my engine. I had them installed
when I rebuilt the engine for my RV; but, I'm not sure they really do that
much good. Consider this. For Ney nozzles to really work, one has to build
up oil pressure in the oil galleys to get the spray of oil on the cam. Now,
if I'm not mistaken, it takes a bit of a spin of the engine to get that
pressure up. For the engine to spin, there is also the minor problem that
the cam is going to spin, as well, without the spray from the nozzles just
when it's most critical. However, if I'm not mistaken, a lot of oil will be
splashing by the time the oil pressure would be up to speed to do the trick
on the cam with the nozzles. One more minor factor is that the oil is most
likely going to be a tad thick on straight weight oils on cooler days. You
and I know that we don't preheat our engines except on the coldest of days,
do we? That means a slight delay again in getting the oil through the
nozzles. With all of that, I'm seriously doubting your statement unless the
Ney nozzles get oil into places that all that splashing can't. I seriously
doubt that. Seems that Lycoming doubts it, too. Personally, I think I
wasted my money except that they may be oiling the cam better while the
engine is running after start up.
The best thing to do to prevent pitted cams is to fly the darned airplane or
pickle it during the seasons you don't. It's that easy. Flying it once a
week until the oil temps come up to operating temps will drive out the
moisture that builds up during down times. Not flying it will build up the
pits in the cam. It's that simple. There is no short cut to it. Flying
the airplane may prevent other problems, as well.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shims in brake calipers |
> I have to agree with Dennis on the brake problem,
> These brakes run 0 clearance any way. Shimming them
> will only allow the puck to extend out of the housing
> further. You will then end up with the same thing.
Unless one has replacement linings from other than the OEM that are thicker.
A shim might be handy just to get them on. The OEMs should fit without
shims.
My linings rub when my brakes aren't applied. They did on my Cheetah and
Skyhawk, as well. However, the idea is to have them not rubbing so hard as
to cause them to heat up when in a taxi. One thing I do beyond the fact
that I loosened up the assemblies at the pedals, and lubed them well, is
that I do not put my feet on the bottoms of the stirrups while I'm in high
taxi, or landing, modes. I put my feet on the sides of the stirrups so
that I can't touch the brake pedals in any way. I also took the hint from
another RVer and installed rubber hose on the bottoms of the stirrups to
build up some spacing from the brake pedals because they're so close to the
bottoms of my feet when I have my feet over them. Those two things, as well
as the stronger springs mentioned earlier, seem to have fixed my problem.
I've never had a problem with overheating brakes, except when showing off,
since my initial taxi tests.
When I did my second annual condition inspection a couple of months ago, I
was pleased to find that my linings were almost as good as new. Not so on
the first inspection. I had to replace them. I contribute my good luck,
this time, to the above suggestions and to the fact that I decided I'd
better quit doing those fast stops to try to make the first turn off. It
worked for me! :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover to
the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and I'm
fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is more
precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
Thanks
Steve
RV-7A
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
For engine shoppers out there, The XP360 Engine and SL360 engine kit cases
have oil galleys on both sides of the case to eliminate those cam and lifter
oil starvation problems and also have pressurized thrust face lubrication as
well.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears [mailto:sears(at)searnet.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exxon Elite
> If you really want to fix the cam pitting problem, which BTW, is endemic
in
> Lycomings because the cam sits above the crank and doesn't get good
> lubrication at startup, look into having Ney nozzles added to your case at
> overhaul. The nozzles provide direct oil spray onto the cam.
Gee, golly. I have a set of Ney nozzles in my engine. I had them installed
when I rebuilt the engine for my RV; but, I'm not sure they really do that
much good. Consider this. For Ney nozzles to really work, one has to build
up oil pressure in the oil galleys to get the spray of oil on the cam. Now,
if I'm not mistaken, it takes a bit of a spin of the engine to get that
pressure up. For the engine to spin, there is also the minor problem that
the cam is going to spin, as well, without the spray from the nozzles just
when it's most critical. However, if I'm not mistaken, a lot of oil will be
splashing by the time the oil pressure would be up to speed to do the trick
on the cam with the nozzles. One more minor factor is that the oil is most
likely going to be a tad thick on straight weight oils on cooler days. You
and I know that we don't preheat our engines except on the coldest of days,
do we? That means a slight delay again in getting the oil through the
nozzles. With all of that, I'm seriously doubting your statement unless the
Ney nozzles get oil into places that all that splashing can't. I seriously
doubt that. Seems that Lycoming doubts it, too. Personally, I think I
wasted my money except that they may be oiling the cam better while the
engine is running after start up.
The best thing to do to prevent pitted cams is to fly the darned airplane or
pickle it during the seasons you don't. It's that easy. Flying it once a
week until the oil temps come up to operating temps will drive out the
moisture that builds up during down times. Not flying it will build up the
pits in the cam. It's that simple. There is no short cut to it. Flying
the airplane may prevent other problems, as well.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
You probably don't need it... I never used one and I didn't have
matched hole wings...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: Wing Template
-->
Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover
to
the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and I'm
fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is
more
precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
Thanks
Steve
RV-7A
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pump on? |
For me, an aux fuel light was well worth it on my RV6A. I sometimes forgot
it was on because you can't hear it over the engine noise. It's such a
simple and cheap thing to do to remind you to turn off the pump.
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
Boise, ID
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuel pump on?
>
> How can you tell if the auxiliary fuel pump is on with a fuel injected
> engine? Will the fuel pressure reading (taken after the mechanical pump)
> show an increase? Or should I put an indicator light in the circuit
> somewhere? I'm using the Infinity stick grip with an on-off button, so it
> is not immediately clear like a switch. I assumed that I would be able to
> tell from the fuel pressure gauge - but I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | K3000-8 Nutplate Dimensions |
Anyone have the exact dimensions of the K3000-8 corner nutplates?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
>
>Since I live near the coast in the southeast, minimizing or preventing
>internal corrosion in the engine is an important subject. I've just found
>out that my engine needs a major overhaul due to a worn/pitted/rusted
>camshaft. So, now that my wallet is also fixing to get a major overhaul, I
>would like to try and protect my soon-to-be freshly overhauled O-320.
>
>Given that Exxon is a horrible, eeeeevil, destroyer-of-all-that-is-good,
>typical greedy, profiteering, capitalist-pig enterprise, I am also
>interested in knowing if anyone on the "list" has any experience with
>Exxon Elite and its claims of better protection against internal corrosion.
Randy,
No one on this list will be able to answer your question about Exxon Elite
until the year 2010. It will take at least that long for any one of us to
accumulate the time and flight hours needed to make a valid examination. It
will take several of us to make enough examinations be statistically
meaningful. This oil has only been around for three years and those of us
who are using it are doing so based on the Exxon advertisements. Unless
there is a major fault in this product that causes a lot of engines to
fail, we will all have to wait for Exxon Elite to prove itself in the
field. Flight schools may not even give us an answer to your question
because they fly so often. It is the ones among us that fly infrequently
that will have to let us know if this stuff works. I sure would like to
hear Doug Rozendaal's opinion.
Louis
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, 195 hrs., 190 HP C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Has anybody tried using BOTH the UHMW and SS tapes at the same time? I
always kinda liked the look of the SS myself but don't want to use it if
it'll look like crap in a couple years. But what about putting SS tape
on the flap, and a narrow piece of UHMW on the underside of the wingskin?
That might do the trick and look cool too...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A......a loooooong way from having to worry about whether to use UHMW
or SS....unfortunately!
_______
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: UHMW Flap Tape was SS tape for flaps
I wouldn't. I've used both. I had the SS tape on for about 3 years and
it
got scratched up and shoddy-looking very quickly. When I painted the
plane
(for the astute readers, yes it took 3 years - I was having too much fun
flying) I installed a wide piece on the flaps and a narrow piece on the
underside of the wing skin so there was only tape to tape contact. That
was
2 years ago and the tape is still in great shape.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
> So . . . do we go back to SS tape? I'm right at the point where I
could
> apply the tape, but now I'm rethinking what I want to use. I think the
> silver SS tape looks kinda cool on the extended flaps. How did it hold
up?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ going on week two the those #@*% baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
Hi All,
Since we have recently been discussing engine oils, lifter wear and ney
nozzles, I thought I would share with the list my recent findings with the
tear down for overhaul of my Lycoming O-320 H2AD engine.
First some history - I bought the engine from a flight school Cessna 172.
The engine was a first run 160 HP engine with 2,240 hours TTSN. As many of
you know this particular engine has developed a reputation (wrongfully so)
for lifter problems. It is said that the lifters spall and wreck the cam.
I have heard some opponents call the "junk" and claim they wouldn't own one.
I say that's pure BULLSH*&!
I installed the high time engine and flew off my 40 hours. Now I have
decided that I should overhaul it so I can feel confident enough to fly with
passengers and family in the plane with me.
The logs reveal that the engine was always maintained with oil changes using
either the Lycoming additive (an AD for this engine) or Aeroshell 100 Plus
(50wt. with the additive already in it).
After hearing all of the horror stories, I was apprehensive to tear down the
engine. Much to my delight, I found absolutely no spalling of the lifters
or camshaft. In fact, the lifters were smooth as silk and show almost no
signs of wear. The camshaft also looks practically new. The crankshaft
journals are smooth and the bearings show very little wear. Same thing with
the Rod bearings and all of the gears. It looks clean and has very little
wear. The Crankcase shows no signs of fretting or wear.
The A&P IA and owner of the FBO on the field (an old-timer with 50 years
experience overhauling aircraft engines) took a look and said "this thing
would have ran easily another 1,000 hours and probably more." He told me
that these were great engines and all of the myths were a bunch of bunk.
So I sent all of the parts off to checked and have all AD's complied with.
When I get it all back and reassembled, I'll feel pretty darned good about
this engine that I was able to pick up for $2,300 including Mags and Carb.
Not a bad investment I think.
Oh, and by the way - this engine has spent a great deal of its life in hot
humid climates (Orlando, FL) and now resides on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
The inside shows no signs of corrosion at all. I think I'll stick with the
Aeroshell - thank you very much.
I will post the itemized list of cost of this overhaul to the list as I
accrue it. Expense so far is about $100 in shipping.
I'll also update my website detailing the overhaul with pictures soon,
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (was Flying, down for overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Location for 2 batteries in RV3 |
Hi Yall,
Is there anyone out there in RV3 land that has dual batteries or knows
of an RV3 with dual batteries? I wondering what the best options are
for placing dual batteries in the 3.
Thanks, Rick Fogerson, Fuselage (about to order), Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
To clarify some of the discussion on TSO'd parts.
CFR 14 21.303
(a) Except as provided in paragraph
(b) of this section, no person may
produce a modification or replacement
part for sale for installation on a type
certificated product unless it is produced
pursuant to a Parts Manufacturer
Approval issued under this subpart.
(b) This section does not apply to the
following:
(1) Parts produced under a type or
production certificate.
(2) Parts produced by an owner or operator
for maintaining or altering his
own product.
(3) Parts produced under an FAA
Technical Standard Order.
(4) Standard parts (such as bolts and
nuts) conforming to established industry
or U.S. specifications.
If your engine is type certified this section applies. It does not apply to
the airframe as it is not a type certificated product.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
Anyone know if there is a user group for the Anywhere map software?
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Template |
Steve,
I see that you are building a RV-7A. My guess is that you weren't on the
list when the discussion on aileron and flap alignment came up. To make a
long story short, the key is making sure that the rib tooling holes are
aligned. Check the archives.
Steve Johnson,
RV-8
finishing right wing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Template
>
> Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
>
> Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover to
> the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and I'm
> fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is more
> precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
>
> Thanks
> Steve
> RV-7A
> http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <13brv3(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Location for 2 batteries in RV3 |
Hi Yall,
Is there anyone out there in RV3 land that has dual batteries or knows
of an RV3 with dual batteries? I wondering what the best options are
for placing dual batteries in the 3.
Thanks, Rick Fogerson, Fuselage (about to order), Boise, ID
----------------
I'll have two batteries, but I can't say where they'll be yet. I'm
installing a rotary engine, so the firewall forward weight is unknown at the
moment. My plan is to use the batteries as a last minute W&B correction,
using either the front floorboard, the baggage compartment, or some
combination of the two. You're engine and fuel tank choices will probably
determine where you need to put yours.
Might I ask why you're installing two? Will you be dependent on electricity
to stay in the air? That's certainly the reason I'll have two batteries.
Maybe you need the second battery to play Jimmy Buffett CD's and run the
blender :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL (Waaaaay away from that corroded Gulf Breeze alien Scott
Compton)
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 95 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Rotary engine project
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: RV-List, Propeller bolts |
Ed,
Yes, I would like to know , I think, what these bolts cost. Also, what is
the difference between this bolt and any other aircraft bolt?
Leon York, westtexflyboy@cox-internet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: re: RV-List, Propeller bolts
>
> Leon,
>
> We have a 7/16 bolt which measures 8.469 from under the head and has 1.156
> threads. We sell singles or kits of 6 bolts and 6 washers. I'll warn you
now
> though that this bolt is not cheap. Give a call if you are interested.
> 717-569-0435
>
> Ed Zercher
> Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
There is a message/discussion group online. I think it is at
http://www.anywheremap.com .
I don't remember if you have to be a customer and use your software udpdate
password to get in.
James
p.s. I am a customer and think the discussion group is very active and very
good with good support from CV.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv8don(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group?
Anyone know if there is a user group for the Anywhere map software?
-Don
RV8 NJ
----------------------------------------------------
Is email taking over your day? Manage your time with eMailBoss.
Try it free! http://www.eMailBoss.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Wittman" <fmico(at)iaxs.net> |
| Subject: | Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
Control Vision runs a monitored one here:
http://www.anywheremapwx.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
Anyone know if there is a user group for the Anywhere map software?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: K3000-8 Corner Nutplate Dimensions |
In a message dated 2/22/2002 4:32:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Anyone have the exact dimensions of the K3000-8 corner nutplates?
Centers are .344" orthogonally from the threaded hole to each mounting hole
and .486" diagonally from one another. These holes are .098 in diameter.
Each leg is .250 wide and .032 thk. Outside corner radius is .149" and
inside radius is .125". Is there any other feature on it you need a
dimension for?
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
I work for a company that operates two cessna 172 with H2Ad engines and i
couldnt agree with you more .
I think they are a great engine and in a lot of ways they are better than
the other 320s
eg; we pull the lifters every 400 hrs when we check the valve guides an any
that look suspect we replace.Try doing that with a standard 320 you would
have to split the case.
the trick with H2Ad is use good oil we use shell w100 and make sure you fly
regularly
I have also used STP oil treatment with good results(i think its better
than the lycoming additive but its not aproved)
Dave Tennant
Australia
RV6 oil cooler and ign harness then a test run
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler ducting |
I have fitted the oil cooler on my RV6 (160hp lyc) on the firewall on the
left side and want to run a scat hose to it from the baffles. about the
biggest scat i can get in there is 3.5inch dia.
Is that big enough?
Dave Tennant
australia
RV6 oil cooler and ign harness then a test run
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AJ Yahya" <ajyahya(at)relay3.jaring.my> |
Test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Mine was drawn on the inside of the cover of the crate for the wing kit.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover
to
the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and I'm
fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is
more
precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
Thanks
Steve
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AJ Yahya" <ajyahya(at)relay3.jaring.my> |
| Subject: | First RV-9A to fly outside US? |
9M-EAX took off for its maiden flight at 9.30am 16 Feb 2001 at Subang
Airport Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This, I believed is the first completed
RV-9A outside USA. The plane is powered by a brand-new LASAR equipped
Lycoming O-320D1A and Hartzell constant speed prop. Other equipment are
VM-1000 engine monitor, S-TEC System 30 autopilot, Kings KLX-135A
gps/comm, Morrow SL30 comm, EI fuel gauge. The plane flew well on its
first flight except of high CHT cylinder #3. CHT on #3 quickly shot up
to over 500 degrees F. Ambient temperature was 34 deg C (rather humid).
An air-dam was quickly fabricated and installed in front of cylinder #1
to resolve this problem and was tested during the second flight. CHT
during take-off climb now stabilised at 460 F (still too high) and oil
temperature at 220 deg F. The low speed handling of this aircraft is
just superior compared my earlier RV-6A. This is the third RV series
aircraft to be completed and flown in Malaysia.
We are still working out the problem of high CHT and oil temperatures.
Any input to solve these is welcomed.
AJ Yahya
9M-EAX
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
They have a great site at--
www.anywheremapwx.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Template |
Hi Steve- Some thoughtful person at Vans drew mine on the bottom of the box-
had to empty it out to find it, might want to check there.
There are many ways to line everything up (check the archives) but using the
templates worked for me- here's what I did- I made my first template by
clamping a nose and main end rib together with an .040 spacer to simulate the
spar along with an aileron rib positioned at the correct distance behind the
rear spar onto my template "blanks" (I used a couple of 1x6's), with the rib
tooling holes lined up where the board edges met. Wrapped with strips to
simulate the skin, traced the outline, then cut on my bandsaw. Try fitting
your actual wing parts into your templates to see how they fit- this IS the
shape your wing will take anyway.
I made the second template from the box bottom, but used the first one as a
"master", as the outline drawn on the box really didn't match the actual parts
very closely.
FWIW from the PossumWorks
Mark
DISCLAIMER: I have never built an airplane before- use all suggestions at
your own risk!!
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
> Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
>
> Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover to
> the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and I'm
> fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is more
> precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Eric, is an excellent post. Minimum emotion, maximum fact. Actual
experience, including cost. This is what I cull through the list each day
and find once in a while.
Thank you.
DLW
.on 2/22/02 19:08, enewton57(at)cableone.net at enewton57(at)cableone.net wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Since we have recently been discussing engine oils, lifter wear and ney
> nozzles, I thought I would share with the list my recent findings with the
> tear down for overhaul of my Lycoming O-320 H2AD engine.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
> I think they are a great engine and in a lot of ways they are better than
> the other 320s
> eg; we pull the lifters every 400 hrs when we check the valve guides an
any
> that look suspect we replace.Try doing that with a standard 320 you would
> have to split the case.
I also found that you can have the oil pump off in about 5 minutes. It is
simply bolted to the aft end of the engine. I plan on inspecting the gears
and case every annual inspection.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying but down for overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | First RV-9A to fly outside US? |
AJ, I have a couple of thoughts on this.
First, new engines often run hot for a few hours, and the cylinders don't
break in all at the same time. So, keep your climb speeds up until it breaks
in. 93 degrees F is pretty warm.
Second, check your mag timing again.
Congrats on your first flight!
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AJ Yahya
Subject: RV-List: First RV-9A to fly outside US?
9M-EAX took off for its maiden flight at 9.30am 16 Feb 2001 at Subang
Airport Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This, I believed is the first completed
RV-9A outside USA. The plane is powered by a brand-new LASAR equipped
Lycoming O-320D1A and Hartzell constant speed prop. Other equipment are
VM-1000 engine monitor, S-TEC System 30 autopilot, Kings KLX-135A
gps/comm, Morrow SL30 comm, EI fuel gauge. The plane flew well on its
first flight except of high CHT cylinder #3. CHT on #3 quickly shot up
to over 500 degrees F. Ambient temperature was 34 deg C (rather humid).
An air-dam was quickly fabricated and installed in front of cylinder #1
to resolve this problem and was tested during the second flight. CHT
during take-off climb now stabilised at 460 F (still too high) and oil
temperature at 220 deg F. The low speed handling of this aircraft is
just superior compared my earlier RV-6A. This is the third RV series
aircraft to be completed and flown in Malaysia.
We are still working out the problem of high CHT and oil temperatures.
Any input to solve these is welcomed.
AJ Yahya
9M-EAX
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, February 22, 2002, at 10:07 PM, Rv8don(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone know if there is a user group for the Anywhere map software?
>
> http://www.anywheremapwx.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Controlvision Anywhere Map User Group? |
Yes, go to www.controlvision.com where there is a discussion board with info
and details of the Anywhere Map system and its use with various hand held
computers
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I posted this question in the past and received no response.
Being that the flap hinge is cut at 55.5 inches it would interfere with the
actuator bracket. Does the hinge go under bracket (approx. an inch of it) or
am I missing something? The drawings show it short of the bracket/no
indication of it being under it.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flap question again |
Sorry, my question is does the hinge go in front of the bracket (an inch of
so)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>Flying the airplane may prevent other problems, as
well............................
Yeah: depression, grouchiness, face twitching, pilot rust, skill
deterioration.................
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: K3000-8 Nutplate Dimensions |
No sure how "exact" you need it but I measure 11/32 between the center of the
screw hole and the rivet holes and 19/32 overall length of each leg measured
thru the hole center lines. Hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap hinge/6 |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Bob:
I got old 6 prints but:
If you take your 56 5/8 from the actuator bracket & subtrack the 5/8
bracket you got 56.
On drw 17 lower left, sec B-B it shows the hinge at 55 1/2. I would think
you are a 1/2 inch short of the bracket.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> I posted this question in the past and received no response.
> Being that the flap hinge is cut at 55.5 inches it would interfere
> with the
> actuator bracket. Does the hinge go under bracket (approx. an inch
> of it) or
> am I missing something? The drawings show it short of the bracket/no
>
> indication of it being under it.
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mag or True Garmin295 |
Imbarrising question. Is the garmin 295/195 in magnetic or true. If I use the
compass rose on the sectional (Which should be Mag) it is in conflict with my
garmin headings especially with Lat/Long using the hours/minutes. Is there a
setting for true/mag.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag or True Garmin295 |
Planejoel(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Imbarrising question. Is the garmin 295/195 in magnetic or true. If I use the
> compass rose on the sectional (Which should be Mag) it is in conflict with my
> garmin headings especially with Lat/Long using the hours/minutes. Is there a
> setting for true/mag.
>
>
> Joe
> RV6A
you can pick either one on my little garmin pilot III, so
I'd be surprised if there isn't a menu option on the bigger
ones.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A QB Questions |
I'd like to ask one of you 6AQB builders a few questions about the kit.
Could one of you please send me a note with a telephone number I can call to
talk with you.
Thanks...
David Schaefer
EMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag or True Garmin295 |
Yes, you can pick either with the 295 and it knows the mag variation (or is
it deviation) for your present location.
Neil
-7 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag or True Garmin295
>
> Planejoel(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Imbarrising question. Is the garmin 295/195 in magnetic or true. If I
use the
> > compass rose on the sectional (Which should be Mag) it is in conflict
with my
> > garmin headings especially with Lat/Long using the hours/minutes. Is
there a
> > setting for true/mag.
> >
> >
> > Joe
> > RV6A
> you can pick either one on my little garmin pilot III, so
> I'd be surprised if there isn't a menu option on the bigger
> ones.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
Does anyone on the list know an Edmond Compton in Wytheville, VA? He
built a 1997 RV-3A and I'd like to contact him. Please respond off
list.
John Warren
LaCenter WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
BlankSomeone left a message a week or so ago and needed some information
off of an old set of RV-3 Plans. I forgot I had them, but I've got an
old, complete set of plans for an RV-3 from 1973 serial #407. Pretty
cool. Maybe some historic value.
If you still need some information I'd be glad to research for you.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
BlankSomeone left a message a week or so ago and needed some information
off of an old set of RV-3 Plans. I forgot I had them, but I've got an
old, complete set of plans for an RV-3 from 1973 serial #407. Pretty
cool. Maybe some historic value.
If you still need some information I'd be glad to research for you.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:terra com ( r ) |
hey listers
today i was verifing my avionics and am having a problem with the com. it is
a terra and what is happening is there is a small ( r ) for receiving on the
side of the digital frequency indicating that it is receiving a signal all
the time, no matter which freq. i switch to it shows the little r. when i key
the mic, i can hear it in my headset, but the little ( t ) or transmit
indicator, on the radio dosen't come on, and the little r stays there. i also
can't hear anything, total silence. i know the headsets and intercom are
working as i was speaking to a buddy though his headsets. i have it connected
to a com ant. does anyone have a glue what i could check for?
scott
tampa
boy was it rainy and cold in florida today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com> |
Well, I finally took the plunge. I ordered my 8A tail kit on Friday,
Feb. 22. Vans tells me I'll have it next week. The fun begins!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net> |
I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a trim
tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do to make it
fly straight?
Ted Fields
Guymon OK.
N8706D PA 22 & N4344X Experimental RV6 A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight stright |
>
>I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a trim
>tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do to make it
>fly straight?
>Ted Fields
>Guymon OK.
>N8706D PA 22 & N4344X Experimental RV6 A
>
How does it fly without wheel pants or gear leg fairings? I'm told
that they can affect things if they are not aligned properly. If it
still needs right rudder without the fairings or wheel pants, you've
got a number of options:
1. misalign the wheel pants or gear leg fairings as required to sort
out the trim,
2. use a bendable trim tab or wedge on the rudder,
3. move the leading edge of the vertical stab to the right - this
will take a lot of trial and error, and you get to build a new
empennage fairing each time, or
4. build a new engine mount to angle the engine thrust line a bit to
the right of where it is now, or
5. build a new rudder with an adjustable tab like the elevator trim, or
6. cobble up some sort of spring bias system to provide rudder trim.
See <http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/ruddertrim.htm> for an example.
Option 4 is completely impractical. Most people use option 2, as it
is the easiest by far. Some people use option 3 because they can't
bear the thought of an "unsightly" tab or wedge on their rudder. A
very few people do options 5 or 6, but the work is normally done
during the construction phase
If it was my plane, I would probably go for a wedge on the rudder
trailing edge, as it doesn't stand out quite as much as a tab.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A1sharpco(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A1sharpco(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | STOP FLOODING ME |
UNSUBCRIBEP PPPPPPPLLLEEEAAAASSSSEEEE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm trying to clecoe the F711 bulkhead to the F779 tail cone. It does not
seem to want to fit at all. Even with 2 pairs of hands I could not coax it
into place. Have others experienced this? Whats the simple fix?
Steve
RV-7A
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
Jim Sears wrote:
Gee, golly. I have a set of Ney nozzles in my engine. I had them
installed
when I rebuilt the engine for my RV; but, I'm not sure they really do
that
much good. Consider this. For Ney nozzles to really work, one has to
build
up oil pressure in the oil galleys to get the spray of oil on the cam.
Now,
if I'm not mistaken, it takes a bit of a spin of the engine to get that
pressure up. For the engine to spin, there is also the minor problem
that
the cam is going to spin, as well, without the spray from the nozzles
just
when it's most critical. However, if I'm not mistaken, a lot of oil
will be
splashing by the time the oil pressure would be up to speed to do the
trick
on the cam with the nozzles. One more minor factor is that the oil is
most
likely going to be a tad thick on straight weight oils on cooler days.
You
and I know that we don't preheat our engines except on the coldest of
days,
do we? That means a slight delay again in getting the oil through the
nozzles. With all of that, I'm seriously doubting your statement unless
the
Ney nozzles get oil into places that all that splashing can't. I
seriously
doubt that. Seems that Lycoming doubts it, too. Personally, I think I
wasted my money except that they may be oiling the cam better while the
engine is running after start up.
Has anyone considered or is using a preoiling pump? Wouldn't this also
be a possible emergency substitute backup in the event of a failure of
the engine driven pump?
Rob
RV9A O290G N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
I've been wondering why Lycomings don'trun on automotive plugs and
leads unless using electronic ignition. If they can does anyone have
any recommendations or reasons why not ?
Thanks
Rob
RV9A wings. O290G N919RV resvd
________________________________________________________________________________
While talking to Chuch Ney He says that there has never been a cam failure
using the Nozzles. I have two cases sent to him to have the nozzles put in.
Like you wonder if it is worth the money . Its done now. It can' hurt.
Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark andrews <redbeardmark(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Ordered Kit |
Hi Jim!
I just finished the tail kit on my 8A. Check out the
builders' tips at the Van's WorldWideWing site/links.
And, definitely pick up copies of the Orndorff Videos.
You're gonna love building! "Got tools?"
Mark Andrews
--- Jim Adams wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Adams"
>
>
> Well, I finally took the plunge. I ordered my 8A
> tail kit on Friday,
> Feb. 22. Vans tells me I'll have it next week. The
> fun begins!
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:terra com ( r ) |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> hey listers
> today i was verifing my avionics and am having a problem with the com. it is
> a terra and what is happening is there is a small ( r ) for receiving on the
> side of the digital frequency indicating that it is receiving a signal all
> the time, no matter which freq. i switch to it shows the little r. when i key
> the mic, i can hear it in my headset, but the little ( t ) or transmit
> indicator, on the radio dosen't come on, and the little r stays there. i also
> can't hear anything, total silence. i know the headsets and intercom are
> working as i was speaking to a buddy though his headsets. i have it connected
> to a com ant. does anyone have a glue what i could check for?
> scott
> tampa
> boy was it rainy and cold in florida today
>
Scott,
What are you hearing in your headset when you key the mic?
Just a click as you push the xmit button? Odds are, the
transmit button isn't supplying a ground to the xmit pin on
the back of the radio.
The most direct troubleshooting method is to gain access to
the radio's terminals & momentarily ground the xmit pin. (be
very sure you have the right pin when you do this. :-) ) If
you get the 't' in the display, you have a problem in the
electrical path from the xmit pin, out to the xmit switch,
to ground.
You can test for the same thing by hooking your volt meter
between the xmit pin & ground. The pin should be 'high'
meaning probably 12 Vdc until you push the xmit button. Then
it should drop to 0 volts while the xmit button is held. If
it doesn't change states from high to 0, then move your
meter to the switch. If there is NOT a high there WITHOUT
the button pressed, you have a break in the circuit between
the radio's xmit pin & the switch (be sure to measure both
sides of the switch; only one side should be high). If you
have a high there with the button pushed, then either the
switch is bad or the wire from the other side of the switch
isn't making it to ground. At this point, you need to change
the measuring procedure. If you are still stuck, email me
off line & I'll supply more detail.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>
>
> I've been wondering why Lycomings don'trun on automotive plugs and
> leads unless using electronic ignition. If they can does anyone have
> any recommendations or reasons why not ?
> Thanks
> Rob
> RV9A wings. O290G N919RV resvd
>
Magnetos generate a lot of electrical 'noise' which radiates
off the ignition wires into com & nav radios if the wires
aren't shielded. The guys using electronic ignitions say
that auto plugs & unshielded wires work fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AJ Yahya" <ajyahya(at)relay3.jaring.my> |
| Subject: | Re: First RV-9A to fly outside US? |
John, thanks for your input. I did notice a couple of flights later the CHT
and oil temp stabilised lower than the second flight. Now the oil temp
hovered around 207 deg F and #3 CHT around 420 deg F, a bit lower than
earlier. I do hope with more hours, the temperature will stabilised lower.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
AJ Yahya
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: First RV-9A to fly outside US?
>
> AJ, I have a couple of thoughts on this.
>
> First, new engines often run hot for a few hours, and the cylinders don't
> break in all at the same time. So, keep your climb speeds up until it
breaks
> in. 93 degrees F is pretty warm.
>
> Second, check your mag timing again.
>
> Congrats on your first flight!
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AJ Yahya
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: First RV-9A to fly outside US?
>
>
> 9M-EAX took off for its maiden flight at 9.30am 16 Feb 2001 at Subang
> Airport Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This, I believed is the first completed
> RV-9A outside USA. The plane is powered by a brand-new LASAR equipped
> Lycoming O-320D1A and Hartzell constant speed prop. Other equipment are
> VM-1000 engine monitor, S-TEC System 30 autopilot, Kings KLX-135A
> gps/comm, Morrow SL30 comm, EI fuel gauge. The plane flew well on its
> first flight except of high CHT cylinder #3. CHT on #3 quickly shot up
> to over 500 degrees F. Ambient temperature was 34 deg C (rather humid).
> An air-dam was quickly fabricated and installed in front of cylinder #1
> to resolve this problem and was tested during the second flight. CHT
> during take-off climb now stabilised at 460 F (still too high) and oil
> temperature at 220 deg F. The low speed handling of this aircraft is
> just superior compared my earlier RV-6A. This is the third RV series
> aircraft to be completed and flown in Malaysia.
>
> We are still working out the problem of high CHT and oil temperatures.
> Any input to solve these is welcomed.
>
> AJ Yahya
> 9M-EAX
> Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
I'm sure it's like airframe speed mods. They all claim a speed increase of
3-4 mph. Just enough not to be able to really measure.
Do the nozzles work? The theory seems sound and Chuck claims that oil is
squirted on the cam before 1 prop revolution at startup. Will it make a
difference? Who knows. It's only a 2-300 dollar mod so what's the harm and
it might help in the long run.
Bruce
Glasair III - nozzles to be installed at next OH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Flight stright |
Ted, some guys have talked about installing the vert stab with a few
degrees of offset to compensate for the needed rudder. I opted to build
straight as to the plans and adjust later. When you take all the
variables like wheel pants, cowlings, control rigging, you really can't
be sure how much to adjust. As it turned out I needed no adjustment for
cruise, but a couple of others I know have used a 3" to 6" piece of
triangle wood stock placed at the trailing edge of the rudder. Was
effective and looked better than a tab hanging in the breeze... fwiw
Steve DiNieri
exbuilders.com
rvsteve(at)exbuilders.com
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Ted Fields"
>
> I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a
trim
> tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do to
make
> it
> fly straight?
> Ted Fields
> Guymon OK.
> N8706D PA 22 & N4344X Experimental RV6 A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Rob,
Simply put, the "spark" from magneto is much weaker than that from an
electronic or automobile type ignition. More people will probably go into
detail on this issue, so I'll keep it simple.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Just put on the prop!
I've been wondering why Lycomings don'trun on automotive plugs and
leads unless using electronic ignition. If they can does anyone have
any recommendations or reasons why not ?
Thanks
Rob
RV9A wings. O290G N919RV resvd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Location for 2 batteries in RV3 |
Rick,
Maybe one on right hand side of baggage compt (per dwgs) and the other on
cockpit floor in front of fuel cock (per prototype) ??
Cockpit one in a box to shield from fuel system, and both small RG type as
recommended by Bob Nuckolls.
My 0.02 only !
Are you going for dual electronic ign and full IFR with electric gyros ?
Bob
(UK, -3B fuselage)
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
> Subject: RV3-List: Location for 2 batteries in RV3
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Richard D. Fogerson"
>
> Hi Yall,
> Is there anyone out there in RV3 land that has dual batteries or knows
> of an RV3 with dual batteries? I wondering what the best options are
> for placing dual batteries in the 3.
>
> Thanks, Rick Fogerson, Fuselage (about to order), Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob W M Shipley <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pre oiling
>
> Jim Sears wrote:
> Gee, golly. I have a set of Ney nozzles in my engine. I had them
> installed
> when I rebuilt the engine for my RV; but, I'm not sure they really do
> that
> much good. Consider this. For Ney nozzles to really work, one has to
> build
> up oil pressure in the oil galleys to get the spray of oil on the cam.
> Now,
> if I'm not mistaken, it takes a bit of a spin of the engine to get that
> pressure up. For the engine to spin, there is also the minor problem
> that
> the cam is going to spin, as well, without the spray from the nozzles
> just
> when it's most critical. However, if I'm not mistaken, a lot of oil
> will be
> splashing by the time the oil pressure would be up to speed to do the
> trick
> on the cam with the nozzles. One more minor factor is that the oil is
> most
> likely going to be a tad thick on straight weight oils on cooler days.
> You
> and I know that we don't preheat our engines except on the coldest of
> days,
> do we? That means a slight delay again in getting the oil through the
> nozzles. With all of that, I'm seriously doubting your statement unless
> the
> Ney nozzles get oil into places that all that splashing can't. I
> seriously
> doubt that. Seems that Lycoming doubts it, too. Personally, I think I
> wasted my money except that they may be oiling the cam better while the
> engine is running after start up.
>
> Has anyone considered or is using a preoiling pump? Wouldn't this also
> be a possible emergency substitute backup in the event of a failure of
> the engine driven pump?
> Rob
> RV9A O290G N919RV resvd.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Weldments Sticking |
Hello-
I didn't see a post for this - so I figured it would
be helpful for the next person.
Prior to assembling the rudder pedal weldments, I
filed and sanded away the powder coat from the
openings. One assembly went together with some heavy
encouragement and the other simply got heavily stuck.
Neither pedal moved without heavy force. After
wrestling the weldments apart (which took hours and
blisters - but without damage - man... I wanted to use
a chisel and a hammer) I called Vans
Apparently some of the weldments get deformed when
being welded together. I found that even filing near
where the welds wasn't enough - I ended up using a
dremel to grind away enough so that the pedals would
slide in and would smoothly move. Note I took care
not to grind away too much such that there would not
be a wobble.
Is this common?
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage F-406 |
I am fitting my F-405 and F-406 bulkheads and am finding that F-406 L and R
are a little too long to meet the longerons at the 50 inch station as called
for in the plans. F-406 sides are 21 inches long as called out in the plans,
but I will have to cut them down maybe 1/2 inch to meet the longerons at the
50 inch station. In looking at the plans, it looks like what matters here is
that the roll bar is directly above F-405 and that F-406 is 1 inch aft of
F-405.
The plans show the rollbar at the 49 inch station, but I measured it on the
1/4 scale drawing and it is at 12 inches which multiplies out to 48 inches
actual.
Is 49 inches the correct position for the rollbar so it will fit under the
canopy?
Mark McGee
RV-4 Builder
Loganville, Ga
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If you need a pre-oiler to back up oil pump failure, you have a lot more
problems than just oiling.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pre oiling
Jim Sears wrote:
Gee, golly. I have a set of Ney nozzles in my engine. I had them
installed
when I rebuilt the engine for my RV; but, I'm not sure they really do
that
much good. Consider this. For Ney nozzles to really work, one has to
build
up oil pressure in the oil galleys to get the spray of oil on the cam.
Now,
if I'm not mistaken, it takes a bit of a spin of the engine to get that
pressure up. For the engine to spin, there is also the minor problem
that
the cam is going to spin, as well, without the spray from the nozzles
just
when it's most critical. However, if I'm not mistaken, a lot of oil
will be
splashing by the time the oil pressure would be up to speed to do the
trick
on the cam with the nozzles. One more minor factor is that the oil is
most
likely going to be a tad thick on straight weight oils on cooler days.
You
and I know that we don't preheat our engines except on the coldest of
days,
do we? That means a slight delay again in getting the oil through the
nozzles. With all of that, I'm seriously doubting your statement unless
the
Ney nozzles get oil into places that all that splashing can't. I
seriously
doubt that. Seems that Lycoming doubts it, too. Personally, I think I
wasted my money except that they may be oiling the cam better while the
engine is running after start up.
Has anyone considered or is using a preoiling pump? Wouldn't this also
be a possible emergency substitute backup in the event of a failure of
the engine driven pump?
Rob
RV9A O290G N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Weldments Sticking |
Dag
I took a 3/8 bolt, cut a slot in it with the hack saw, wound sandpaper
around it and chucked it in my drill.
shoved it in the pipe to about where the weld indents were and spun it
with the drill. omly needed a few blasts in each spot to make it silky
smooth.
just a thougt........
Gert
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> Hello-
>
> I didn't see a post for this - so I figured it would
> be helpful for the next person.
>
> Prior to assembling the rudder pedal weldments, I
> filed and sanded away the powder coat from the
> openings. One assembly went together with some heavy
> encouragement and the other simply got heavily stuck.
> Neither pedal moved without heavy force. After
> wrestling the weldments apart (which took hours and
> blisters - but without damage - man... I wanted to use
> a chisel and a hammer) I called Vans
>
> Apparently some of the weldments get deformed when
> being welded together. I found that even filing near
> where the welds wasn't enough - I ended up using a
> dremel to grind away enough so that the pedals would
> slide in and would smoothly move. Note I took care
> not to grind away too much such that there would not
> be a wobble.
>
> Is this common?
>
> -Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight stright |
> I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a trim
> tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do to make
it
> fly straight?
Some options:
1. Build the plane crooked to offset the engine torque
2. Use a jet engine (no prop)
3. Use a contra-rotating double prop on your Lycoming
4. Put a little wedge on the left side of the rudder
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 94 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight stright |
> --- Original Message ---
>Sent: 02/24/02 12:06:11
>From: alexpeterson(at)usjet.net
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight stright
>
>
>> I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a trim
>> tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do to make
>it
>> fly straight?
>
>Some options:
>
>1. Build the plane crooked to offset the engine torque
>2. Use a jet engine (no prop)
>3. Use a contra-rotating double prop on your Lycoming
>4. Put a little wedge on the left side of the rudder
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>6A N66AP flying 94 hours
>
5.Build a trim tab into the rudder. :)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>I think it may have been said within this thread earlier that the rudder be
>offset a little... and I think it may have been said the wrong direction...
>we need to think this through a little more... which direction... so we
>don't misslead anybody.
>
>jim
>tampa
>well beyond this point, but watching what is being said... I think...
I'm not sure about the rudder, but I certainly mistyped when I said
to move the VS leading edge to the right. Another lister kindly woke
me up, and I realized my fingers were going faster than my brain. As
you say, a bit of thought leads to the right answer - if you need
right rudder, you would need to move the VS leading edge to the left
(if you wanted to move the VS at all - I certainly think it is too
much work).
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler ducting |
Dave, I have recently replaced my two inch duct with a three inch duct
to the oil cooler. Most builders have installed the three inch duct
with good results. I have only had a few flights with the new duct but
on last flight at 45F OAT, I had 176F for oil temp.
My two inch duct served well until I installed electronic ignition.
Apparently this elevated the oil temp though I don't see any difference
in the CHT.
My flying partner had fabricated a plenum for the oil cooler which
distributed all the air into the cooler. Fortunately, it was made large
enough to accommodate a three inch flange too.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
DJ & LM Tennant wrote:
>
>
> I have fitted the oil cooler on my RV6 (160hp lyc) on the firewall on the
> left side and want to run a scat hose to it from the baffles. about the
> biggest scat i can get in there is 3.5inch dia.
> Is that big enough?
> Dave Tennant
> australia
> RV6 oil cooler and ign harness then a test run
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
All,
Are there any RV get togethers planned for S-N-F?
Dave, I and my wife are arrriving in Orlando at 11am Sunday (4/7) and plan to be
at S-N-F Monday and Tuesday. We will be leaving on Wednesday.
Hope we can catch up with some of youwhen we are there.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Here is a write up on a rudder trim system an RV-8 builder here
installed...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/tt&i/index.htm#ruddertrim
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted Fields
Subject: RV-List: Flight stright
I have a RV6-A, when I fly it I have to hold right rudder or have a
trim tab bent to the left on the rudder. Does any one know what to do
to make it fly straight? Ted Fields Guymon OK. N8706D PA 22 & N4344X
Experimental RV6 A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
Hey everyone,
I don't know if anybody is still looking for these but they are on eBay
and go soon. I can't get the picture to load so I don't know what they
look like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1707012080
Good Luck,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -6 and -4 vertical tail the same? |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have a friend with an RV-4 who wants to replace his vertical stab/rudder.
He has access to an RV-6 tail (another friend built a tail, then bought
a complete project).
Are the -6 parts interchangeable to the -4?
For that matter, could the currently shipping (taller) -8,-6,-7 tail work?
TIA
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Eyeball vents |
In a message dated 02/24/2002 8:09:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
eperry(at)san.rr.com writes:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1707012080
This item is no longer in E-Bay's data base.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8(A) canopy latch |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing it
shut, the latch is too LONG. The manual says if it's too short, you can
file the latch deeper where it engages on the rollbar.....but mine looks
like it's useless and I will need to make a whole new one (or else cut
and splice shorter). I don't have a big enough piece of 1/8" aluminum
laying around to make a new one so looks like I'm stuck with an ugly
splice of some sort. Just curious if anybody else had this problem, and
any better ideas for a fix?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
somehow....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8(A) canopy latch |
Don't do anything right now, wait until you have the canopy and
windscreen done... You will it really is the right length...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8(A) canopy latch
Guys,
I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing
it shut, the latch is too LONG. The manual says if it's too short, you
can file the latch deeper where it engages on the rollbar.....but mine
looks like it's useless and I will need to make a whole new one (or else
cut and splice shorter). I don't have a big enough piece of 1/8"
aluminum laying around to make a new one so looks like I'm stuck with an
ugly splice of some sort. Just curious if anybody else had this
problem, and any better ideas for a fix?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
#30 is 0.128 1/8" is 0.125
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
Guys,
Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
somehow....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Yes.....you can use a standard bit of for the initial holes... It's
when you try to open up a hole in plexi that you need the plexi bit...
The #27 (.1440) drill is approximately the same as a 5/32" (.1562)
drill... Just get the 5/32" plexi bit...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
Guys,
Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the
holes in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the
frame.
1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit?
Way back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use
a standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip
was modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there
swear it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
somehow....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Flight stright |
Thanks Steve, Where do you put the wood and what shape is it
Ted Fields
Guymon OK.
N8706D PA 22 & N4344X Experimental RV6 A
Subject: RE: RV6-List: Flight stright
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
>
> > a couple of others I know have used a 3" to 6" piece of
> triangle wood stock placed at the trailing edge of the rudder. Was
> effective and looked better than a tab hanging in the breeze... fwiw
>
> Steve DiNieri
> exbuilders.com
> rvsteve(at)exbuilders.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8(A) canopy latch |
I saw this problem on another RV-8. The root cause was the roll bar mounted
too far aft. The drawings on where to mount the roll bar are not all that
clear so it is easy to get this in not quite the best position.
If you have not done any plexi work then it is easy to move the roll bar
forward. You may want to install a 1/8" backing plate inside the longeron
to add back the strength you lose by drilling the extra mounting holes.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings at the hanger, fuselage goes next weekend)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8(A) canopy latch
Guys,
I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing it
shut, the latch is too LONG. The manual says if it's too short, you can
file the latch deeper where it engages on the rollbar.....but mine looks
like it's useless and I will need to make a whole new one (or else cut
and splice shorter). I don't have a big enough piece of 1/8" aluminum
laying around to make a new one so looks like I'm stuck with an ugly
splice of some sort. Just curious if anybody else had this problem, and
any better ideas for a fix?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Mark,
Look back at the archives under my name on canopy lessons learned. For
now, here are the short answers:
- Standard #40 bit is fine. Drill the holes in the frame first, then drill
the canopy holes. Keep the canopy warm (>80 degrees F) My old post on this
tells you the trick to get it perfect each time.
- After the canopy is drill and clekoed, take it all apart. Drill out the
frame to #30, drill out the canopy holes under the skirt to #27. For the
holes that are not covered by the skirt, I drilled out to 1/4", and then
countersunk the holes just enough for a #6 SS tinnerman to sit in. I did
not want a hard pop rivet to Plexiglas contact anywhere on the canopy.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (wings at the hanger, fuselage goes next weekend)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
Guys,
Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
somehow....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Sunday, February 24, 2002, at 08:06 PM, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
-snip-
> 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
> back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
> modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
> it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
>
> -snip-
I just did this last month. I got my shop as warm as possible, and then
left a space heater in the fuse to get the canopy very warm. The regular
#40 bit worked fine, although I was careful to use very little pressure.
After experimenting on scrap, I actually didn't use the plexiglas bits at
all, but used a Unibit chucked in a (slow) electric drill to enlarge each
hole.
The holes are all beautiful, and no cracks (so far anyway...).
FWIW I have a Todd's "dark" canopy in 3/16.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
I think that a plexi bit ( we call them dubbed drills) is really cheap
insurance when drilling holes in a $1000.00 canopy.....
Dave Burton
RV6, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
>
> On Sunday, February 24, 2002, at 08:06 PM, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> -snip-
> > 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit?
Way
> > back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> > standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
> > modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
> > it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
> >
> > -snip-
>
> I just did this last month. I got my shop as warm as possible, and then
> left a space heater in the fuse to get the canopy very warm. The regular
> #40 bit worked fine, although I was careful to use very little pressure.
>
> After experimenting on scrap, I actually didn't use the plexiglas bits at
> all, but used a Unibit chucked in a (slow) electric drill to enlarge each
> hole.
>
> The holes are all beautiful, and no cracks (so far anyway...).
>
> FWIW I have a Todd's "dark" canopy in 3/16.
>
> James Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Following is the inch and metric equivalent to the various number drill sizes:
To convert a standard drill to a plexi (or brass) drill it is only necessary to
grind a small flat
onto the leading edge of the cutting lip
Hope this is of some value
Bob McC
# Drill Equivalents
#1 .2283 inches 5.8 mm
2 .2205 5.6
3 .2188 5.4
4 .2165 5.3
5 .2126 5.22
6 .2087 5.2
7 .2047 5.1
8 .2031 5.08
9 .2008 5
10 .1969 4.9
11 .1929 4.85
12 .1890 4.8
13 .1875 4.7
14 .1850 4.62
15 .1811 4.58
16 .1772 4.5
17 .1732 4.4
18 .1719 4.3
19 .1693 4.2
20 .1654 4.1
21 .1614 4.02
22 .1575 4
23 .1562 3.92
24 .11535 3.9
25 .1496 3.8
26 .1457 3.7
27 .1417 3.65
28 .1406 3.57
29 .1339 3.45
30 .1260 3.25
31 .1181 3.05
32 .1161 2.95
33 .1142 2.85
34 .1122 2.82
35 .1102 2.8
36 .1063 2.7
37 .1043 2.65
38 .1024 2.6
39 .1004 2.55
40 .0984 2.5
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
> the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
> canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
> in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
>
> 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
> back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
> modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
> it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
>
> 2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
> from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
> the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
> somehow....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A canopy stuff....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Sorry folks this list is WRONG. Please instead refer to the following link
http://www.lehisheetmetal.com/1_e_drill.htm
Apologies
Bob McC
Robert McCallum wrote:
>
> Following is the inch and metric equivalent to the various number drill sizes:
> To convert a standard drill to a plexi (or brass) drill it is only necessary
to grind a small flat
> onto the leading edge of the cutting lip
> Hope this is of some value
>
> Bob McC
>
> # Drill Equivalents
>
> #1 .2283 inches 5.8 mm
> 2 .2205 5.6
> 3 .2188 5.4
> 4 .2165 5.3
> 5 .2126 5.22
> etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone know of a source for full size USAF decals
or stencils for stars-and-bars, etc?
George
N888GK
Flying, thinking about paint
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Here's another...
http://www.saw-online.com/Service/drillbit.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert McCallum
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
-->
Sorry folks this list is WRONG. Please instead refer to the following
link http://www.lehisheetmetal.com/1_e_drill.htm
Apologies
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
I believe that you can get an evaluation a bit sooner. I have a subscription
to "The Aviation Consumer" and they did a comparative oil examination. I
have been looking for the back issue, but haven't found it yet. Their
contact points are:
phone - 203-270-6318
fax - 203-426-9205
email - paul.bertorelli(at)snet.net
I believe they found the Exxon oil to be better, but you should contact them
to be sure. I have found thier testing to be pretty objective.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exxon Elite
>
> >
> >Since I live near the coast in the southeast, minimizing or preventing
> >internal corrosion in the engine is an important subject. I've just
found
> >out that my engine needs a major overhaul due to a worn/pitted/rusted
> >camshaft. So, now that my wallet is also fixing to get a major overhaul,
I
> >would like to try and protect my soon-to-be freshly overhauled O-320.
> >
> >Given that Exxon is a horrible, eeeeevil, destroyer-of-all-that-is-good,
> >typical greedy, profiteering, capitalist-pig enterprise, I am also
> >interested in knowing if anyone on the "list" has any experience with
> >Exxon Elite and its claims of better protection against internal
corrosion.
>
> Randy,
> No one on this list will be able to answer your question about Exxon Elite
> until the year 2010. It will take at least that long for any one of us to
> accumulate the time and flight hours needed to make a valid examination.
It
> will take several of us to make enough examinations be statistically
> meaningful. This oil has only been around for three years and those of us
> who are using it are doing so based on the Exxon advertisements. Unless
> there is a major fault in this product that causes a lot of engines to
> fail, we will all have to wait for Exxon Elite to prove itself in the
> field. Flight schools may not even give us an answer to your question
> because they fly so often. It is the ones among us that fly infrequently
> that will have to let us know if this stuff works. I sure would like to
> hear Doug Rozendaal's opinion.
>
> Louis
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, 195 hrs., 190 HP C/S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) canopy latch |
Mark,
Mine was the opposite. The first time I tried it, it warped the frame to the
side. It looked like I needed to take off better than 3/16" before modifying
the block in the rear to have the frame sit a bit deeper. How far is it from
the center of the latch pivot to the center of the pin on the roll bar?
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8(A) canopy latch
>
> Guys,
>
> I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing it
> shut, the latch is too LONG. The manual says if it's too short, you can
> file the latch deeper where it engages on the rollbar.....but mine looks
> like it's useless and I will need to make a whole new one (or else cut
> and splice shorter). I don't have a big enough piece of 1/8" aluminum
> laying around to make a new one so looks like I'm stuck with an ugly
> splice of some sort. Just curious if anybody else had this problem, and
> any better ideas for a fix?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A canopy stuff....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) canopy latch |
Mine came out too long also. I just bought more aluminum at Van's and made
another one.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 147.6 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8(A) canopy latch
>
> Guys,
>
> I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing it
> shut, the latch is too LONG. The manual says if it's too short, you can
> file the latch deeper where it engages on the rollbar.....but mine looks
> like it's useless and I will need to make a whole new one (or else cut
> and splice shorter). I don't have a big enough piece of 1/8" aluminum
> laying around to make a new one so looks like I'm stuck with an ugly
> splice of some sort. Just curious if anybody else had this problem, and
> any better ideas for a fix?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A canopy stuff....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Mark,
I called Bob Avery on this and he has no #27 bit. I got a 5/32" plexi bit
and it works great. I tried drilling scrap with a regular bit, both #30 and
#40 and got very slight spalling off the back of the hole (76 degrees in
Phoenix). Both Van and Bob agreed to enlarge using a unibit. It works fine
so far. I have Todd's dark, 1'4" canopy and it looks great. Thanks for your
help in setting up the buy. I also bought the 120 degree countersink bit
from Bob Avery for the skirts (~$10).
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
> Guys,
>
> Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
> the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
> canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
> in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
>
> 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
> back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
> modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
> it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
>
> 2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
> from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
> the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
> somehow....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A canopy stuff....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
Installed the wings on my 8 today for the first time. Needless to say, the
hangar looks like a very different place. Unfortunately, I can't find
anywhere in the plans that has a callout for the bolt and nuts that hold the
wings on. I think I know which bolts, but which nuts should I use? Am I
missing something?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
> Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
> the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
> canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
> in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
>
I used a 1/8" plexi bit that I drilled into a piece of thin plywood that I
had between the canopy and the frame. Then, I drilled the frame with a
regular bit.
I followed that up with a Unibit to enlarge. I also sanded smooth all of
the holes. I didn't even CS any of the holes with a cutter. I used a
grinding stone to do that to prevent cracks. This may seem like overkill;
but, my canopy did not crack during the drilling process. Would I do it
that way again? You bet.
> 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit? Way
> back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip was
> modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there swear
> it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
>
Your instructors were right. You got some responses from some of the guys
who were very lucky when they did their drilling. If you'll go back in the
archives, you find the ones who weren't. They had cracks. I'm betting Van
has suggested using the smaller bit to get started because it has less
tendency to grab than the larger bit and will probably be OK, if one doesn't
take shortcuts and is very slow about the drilling. One grab of the bit at
the wrong time will make for a very bad day when that crack jumps across the
canopy. The idea is to sort of burn one's way through the hole instead of
cutting through to prevent the grabbing. The smaller bit may do that
instead of taking a big chunk at a time and make the fateful grab at the
wrong time.
> 2) What size is a #27 plexi bit in inches? I have an 1/8" plexi bit
> from Avery....does this equate to #30, or #27? Just wondering if I use
> the 1/8" bit if I need to further enlarge the holes in the plexi
> somehow....
>
There is some good info about this in the archives. I strongly suggest the
search to anyone who has a canopy to drill. You need the good and the bad
to determine what's best for you.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:43:48 AM
Eric,
Great post, makes me feel good about my old beater that I plan on doing the
same with. Hey, do you have the additive number that the guy has been
using? I got to see the mating engine to mine (Twin Comanche) being torn
down and I was shocked at how clean it was inside. The guy tearing it down
said it was due to the additive and if I had a brain at all I would keep
using it. After 1600 hours the shiny surfaces were like mirrors. He used an
aeroshell additive, I was just curious if its the same one that the H2AD is
supposed to use. Man, I am a big believer in that stuff. I don't have the
engine log here so I can't tell you what it is right now.
Good show
Eric H.
(at)matronics.com on 02/22/2002 09:08:25 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Oils - Lifters - H2AD
Hi All,
Since we have recently been discussing engine oils, lifter wear and ney
nozzles, I thought I would share with the list my recent findings with the
tear down for overhaul of my Lycoming O-320 H2AD engine.
First some history - I bought the engine from a flight school Cessna 172.
The engine was a first run 160 HP engine with 2,240 hours TTSN. As many of
you know this particular engine has developed a reputation (wrongfully so)
for lifter problems. It is said that the lifters spall and wreck the cam.
I have heard some opponents call the "junk" and claim they wouldn't own
one.
I say that's pure BULLSH*&!
I installed the high time engine and flew off my 40 hours. Now I have
decided that I should overhaul it so I can feel confident enough to fly
with
passengers and family in the plane with me.
The logs reveal that the engine was always maintained with oil changes
using
either the Lycoming additive (an AD for this engine) or Aeroshell 100 Plus
(50wt. with the additive already in it).
After hearing all of the horror stories, I was apprehensive to tear down
the
engine. Much to my delight, I found absolutely no spalling of the lifters
or camshaft. In fact, the lifters were smooth as silk and show almost no
signs of wear. The camshaft also looks practically new. The crankshaft
journals are smooth and the bearings show very little wear. Same thing
with
the Rod bearings and all of the gears. It looks clean and has very little
wear. The Crankcase shows no signs of fretting or wear.
The A&P IA and owner of the FBO on the field (an old-timer with 50 years
experience overhauling aircraft engines) took a look and said "this thing
would have ran easily another 1,000 hours and probably more." He told me
that these were great engines and all of the myths were a bunch of bunk.
So I sent all of the parts off to checked and have all AD's complied with.
When I get it all back and reassembled, I'll feel pretty darned good about
this engine that I was able to pick up for $2,300 including Mags and Carb.
Not a bad investment I think.
Oh, and by the way - this engine has spent a great deal of its life in hot
humid climates (Orlando, FL) and now resides on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
The inside shows no signs of corrosion at all. I think I'll stick with the
Aeroshell - thank you very much.
I will post the itemized list of cost of this overhaul to the list as I
accrue it. Expense so far is about $100 in shipping.
I'll also update my website detailing the overhaul with pictures soon,
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (was Flying, down for overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
eric
your doing this rebuild yourself right? would you recommend the average joe
blow with some mechanical ability to tackle such a project. i have an engine
that was pickled by the government for 20 years. it only has 600 hrs since
new, and all they did to it to bring it into service was to put chrome
cylinders on it. i looked inside the spark plug holes and every opening i
could find, it looks good, but i can't see the important things, cam, crank,
etc... i'll never really sleep good at night until i have a thourough
inspection.
what do you think.
are you going to use the silk thread gasket to reaseal the crankcase halves?
scott
tampa
chasing rf grimilins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
----- Original Message -----
> Hey, do you have the additive number that the guy has been
> using?
Hi Eric,
The additive called for in the A.D. for this engine (the O-320 H2AD) is Avco
Lycoming LW-16702. Aeroshell has two 50 wt. oils. One is W-100 and the
other is W-100-Plus. The W-100-Plus already has the LW-16702 in it. That's
what I run in my engine. I also had an old timer mechanic advise me to put
in a quart of marvel mystery oil about 3 hours before each oil change.
You can see a picture of the inside of my engine right after I parted the
case halves and before I had done any cleaning by going to my website and
looking in the Firewall Forward section. click on "Engine Overhaul (page
1). www.ericsrv6a.com
Blue Skies and Tail Winds,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying but down for Overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Bailey" <rbailey(at)segmail.com> |
I didn't find any templates on the crates either, but I did notice some
paper templates mixed in with
my wing kit construction drawings. I can't say for sure that these are
the same ones (I'm still finishing
up the emp) but you may want to check.
Rick Bailey
RV-7 empennage
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
>Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:52 PM
>To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wing Template
>
>
>
>Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
>
>Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover
to
>the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and
I'm
>fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is
more
>precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>RV-7A
>http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Template |
I took the paper template provided - had them repro'd at a print shop, spray
glued three of 'em to a sheet of plywood (from the shipping crate) and cut
them out with a jigsaw - I have some pictures if you wanna see!
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Bailey" <rbailey(at)segmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Template
>
>
> I didn't find any templates on the crates either, but I did notice some
> paper templates mixed in with
> my wing kit construction drawings. I can't say for sure that these are
> the same ones (I'm still finishing
> up the emp) but you may want to check.
>
> Rick Bailey
> RV-7 empennage
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
> >Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:52 PM
> >To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Wing Template
> >
> >
>
> >
> >Ref: Wooden template used to hang ailerons and flaps
> >
> >Van's mentions the wooden template for the wings is drawn on the cover
> to
> >the wing box. I don't see it anywhere. I have made the templates and
> I'm
> >fairly happy with them but maybe somewhere there is a pattern that is
> more
> >precise. Anybody know where I can find this pattern?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Steve
> >RV-7A
> >http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
Hi Scott,
See answers below - I hope they are not too lengthy-
----- Original Message -----
> eric
> your doing this rebuild yourself right? would you recommend the average
joe
> blow with some mechanical ability to tackle such a project.
These engines are very basic (no computers). I feel that anyone having
enough mechanical ability and intellegence to build an RV could easily
rebuild a Lycoming engine with a few reference materials. You can get an
engine overhaul manual and parts list book from the Builders Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com/ I also bought an overhaul video that shows a
couple of guys at the Mattittuk facility putting one together. The other
thing I would suggest is having an experienced A & P that's willing to look
over your shoulder from time to time and might even sign off on your work.
If you don't have an A&P maybe you could get an EAA Tech Counselor who knows
engines to give it a look see. I also got a list of all Airworthiness
Directives and Service Buletins for my engine and will comply with them.
i have an engine
> that was pickled by the government for 20 years. it only has 600 hrs since
> new, and all they did to it to bring it into service was to put chrome
> cylinders on it. i looked inside the spark plug holes and every opening i
> could find, it looks good, but i can't see the important things, cam,
crank,
> etc... i'll never really sleep good at night until i have a thourough
> inspection.
> what do you think.
I agree. You can really get a good look inside the engine with just the
cylinders removed. If it has only 600 hours and was properly preserved, I
would give the interior a good inspection paing particular attention to the
cam and lifters looking for any signs of spalling (pitting) or wear and
corrossion. You might also have a good experienced A & P inspect the
interior. Chekc for AD's for your particular engine. If none are found
that involve tearing the engine down, I would go with it.
> are you going to use the silk thread gasket to reaseal the crankcase
halves?
Yes
Happy Building and hope to see you at Sun n' Fun,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (flying but down for overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
I know that this additive is for the Lycoming H2AD (with the AD) but would
using this additive or oil in other Lycoming engines be useful?
Dave Berryhill
> > Hey, do you have the additive number that the guy has been
> > using?
>
>Hi Eric,
>The additive called for in the A.D. for this engine (the O-320 H2AD) is
>Avco
>Lycoming LW-16702. Aeroshell has two 50 wt. oils. One is W-100 and the
>other is W-100-Plus. The W-100-Plus already has the LW-16702 in it.
>That's
>what I run in my engine. I also had an old timer mechanic advise me to put
>in a quart of marvel mystery oil about 3 hours before each oil change.
>You can see a picture of the inside of my engine right after I parted the
>case halves and before I had done any cleaning by going to my website and
>looking in the Firewall Forward section. click on "Engine Overhaul (page
>1). www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>Blue Skies and Tail Winds,
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>RV-6A - N57ME (Flying but down for Overhaul)
>www.ericsrv6a.com
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Skip the Plexi-drill bits (was Drilling Canopy) |
Mark,
Here is how we drilled and attached our canopy (no cracks)!!
1. We heated the garage to about 90 degress 6 hours prior to starting to
work.
2. We drilled the initial holes with a #40
3. Opened up the #40 hole to the proper size with a Uni-Bit (single flute no
grabbing!
When we installed the canopy and shirt we use semi-weld (Pro-seal) in
caulking type tube that premixes it ( you'll need to use/borrow a
specialized caulking type gun to use the tubed material. We used minimal alu
pop rivets (mostly as keeper riviets). The semi-weld method is the same as
used on the Christian Eagles and Pits (without any rivets). You can also
paint the semi-weld after.
Works and looks great and has some ability to flex (read deal with stress,
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Nianitc, CT)
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:06:51 -0600
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
>the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
>canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
>in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Yes, it is very cheap insurance, however, I cracked my first canopy, even
with a plexi bit in a warm shop. Why? Well, it has to do with a certain
hole on the tip up canopy. If you are building a tip up, do NOT drill the
forward most hole in the canopy where the side skirts screw in to. There is
alot of pressure there, and there have been many cracks in this location. I
drilled it and got a nasty crack. $1000 later and I had a new canopy...
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
> I think that a plexi bit ( we call them dubbed drills) is really cheap
> insurance when drilling holes in a $1000.00 canopy.....
>
> Dave Burton
> RV6, wings
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
>
> >
> >
> > On Sunday, February 24, 2002, at 08:06 PM, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> > -snip-
> > > 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit?
> Way
> > > back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use a
> > > standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip
was
> > > modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there
swear
> > > it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
> > >
> > > -snip-
> >
> > I just did this last month. I got my shop as warm as possible, and then
> > left a space heater in the fuse to get the canopy very warm. The
regular
> > #40 bit worked fine, although I was careful to use very little
pressure.
> >
> > After experimenting on scrap, I actually didn't use the plexiglas bits
at
> > all, but used a Unibit chucked in a (slow) electric drill to enlarge
each
> > hole.
> >
> > The holes are all beautiful, and no cracks (so far anyway...).
> >
> > FWIW I have a Todd's "dark" canopy in 3/16.
> >
> > James Freeman
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV ride in SoCal? |
Pete Haggins, a good friend of mine, will be in LA on a course for a
couple of weeks in March. He is intrigued by my RV-8 project, and is
interested in learning more about RVs. He may be a candidate for the
RV-10, as he likes travelling with his family. He has never seen a
completed RV.
Is there anyone in the SoCal area who would be interested in taking
Pete for a ride? He is a good pilot, but doesn't have much light
aircraft experience. Pete will be staying near the USC campus next
to LAX. He will have one weekend to kill in the middle of the course
- March 9 & 10.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8(A) canopy latch |
Mark,
The latch on my -9 slider was way too long. Van's made up a new latch hook
that was about 3/8" shorter and sent it to me. They said that the new canopy
frame with square tubes at the bottom of the sides required the shorter
latch due to an error in the welding jig. I had gotten one of the first of
the new canopy frames.
However, I don't know if this has anything to do with your -8. They may not
be the same parts at all.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting cowl
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I put together the canopy latch for my -8A last night and when I swing it
shut, the latch is too LONG.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Well guys,
I must admit to a screwup when wiring up my Garmin transponder. I wouldn't
publicly admit to it, but I did ask for help from the list so I should be
able to post my embarressment as well. Someone may learn from this as well.
I asked about the miniture sub pins and the fact that once installed into
the 21 pin plug housing there was play in them and therefore I couldn't get
a tight fit on the transponder unit itself and keep the power on. I even
called Garmin and well as Eastern Avionics to discuss it. Garmin was great
and sent me a new plug and more pins at no charge to try again. So right
before repeating the same process I thouhgt maybe I should put the bare wire
in teh other end of the pin and crimp it, then put it in the housing and see
how it fits.....WALA...I WAS CRIMOPING THE WRONG END AND INSERTING THE PINS
BACKWARDS!
Of course my cobuilding pops, took a look and said "Well I coulda told you
that", "I just didn't look close enough:"....yeah, right. So with good
humor, I rewired the new plug in about 10 minutes and we have a working
transponder
So, for a guy who is a wiring rookie, lesson learned on the little sub pins,
which by the way are very easy to use and crimp witht he right tools.
Doug Bell, Jr
8qb getting ever so much closer to havong all electronics done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) canopy latch |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Was just looking through trade a plane for something else and noticed
AERO-D-CALS 1-800-799-4876
They advertise military decals, and show a plane with about what you are
asking for. page 137 of the 3rd jan issue.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George
Kilpatrick
Subject: RV-List: USAF decals
Does anyone know of a source for full size USAF decals
or stencils for stars-and-bars, etc?
George
N888GK
Flying, thinking about paint
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Reece |
The last two e-mails to the list from Rob have addresses which no longer
work. Anyone have a good e-mail address for Rob Reece?
Thanks,
Ed Tate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
George,
We went to Phil at Woodward Signs his telephone number is (201) 461-4600.
Phil was great he sent up numerous CAD like drawings of the decals. He was
also a great deal of help in scaling the decals for our RV-8A's deminisions.
His response time was excellent and his cost was 1/2 what other vendors
were.
Highly recommended.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT ) (Blue Angles paint & decal job)
>From: George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: USAF decals
>Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:02:32 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Does anyone know of a source for full size USAF decals
>or stencils for stars-and-bars, etc?
>
>George
>N888GK
>Flying, thinking about paint
>
>http://sports.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV ride in SoCal? |
Kevin,
I'm sure we can get him a ride. Get him in touch with me (unless your ride with
me scared you.....) and I'll organize it.
Always glad to help out.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
Any of the SoCal guys near LAX interested?
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Feb 25, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV ride in SoCal?
Pete Haggins, a good friend of mine, will be in LA on a course for a
couple of weeks in March. He is intrigued by my RV-8 project, and is
interested in learning more about RVs. He may be a candidate for the
RV-10, as he likes travelling with his family. He has never seen a
completed RV.
Is there anyone in the SoCal area who would be interested in taking
Pete for a ride? He is a good pilot, but doesn't have much light
aircraft experience. Pete will be staying near the USC campus next
to LAX. He will have one weekend to kill in the middle of the course
- March 9 & 10.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8 wing bolts |
Parker:
Look on Drawing 11.
View #2 (top center), right hand side, shows the
callouts for the NAS1304-50 and NAS 1307-50 Bolts.
View #1 (top left), has revision 2, which calls out
the AN4-13A bolts that go through the spar web and
doubler and into the plate nuts. Be very careful when
installing these bolts, because it's easy to damage
the plate nuts. Then you'll have to pull the wing off
again and install a new plate nut. Ask me how I know
about this.
George
N888GK
Flying
I can't find
> anywhere in the plans that has a callout for the
> bolt and nuts that hold the
> wings on. I think I know which bolts, but which
> nuts should I use? Am I
> missing something?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fiberglass weight? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
What weight of fiberglass do you gurus recommend for stuff like the canopy, intersection
fairings, etc? On the -8A canopy plans I could't find any suggestion
from Vans...maybe I'm just missing it somewhere...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>
> Your instructors were right. You got some responses from some of the
> guys who were very lucky when they did their drilling. If you'll go
> back in the archives, you find the ones who weren't.
Checking the archives left me quite confused as to the best way to go
(finding cracked canopies with both plexi and standard bits). So, before I
drilled mine I practiced with scraps left over from cutting the canopy.
I purposely and forcefully (as in *trying* to crack the plexi) drilled into
these scraps with plexi and standard drills. Cracked the plexi everytime
with the plexi drills, and *could not* with the standard #40. In 90 deg
weather.
Test results conclusive, I drilled my entire canopy with a standard #40 bit
drilling right through the frame on each hole. Enlarged with Unibit, all
done at 80+ degrees with no problems. My canopy has since sat in 25 to 105
degree temps with no cracks (hope that continues once its flying ).
YMMV, Rob.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | fiberglass weight? |
Mark,
I like using Rutan 8.8 oz/sq/yd from spruce (pn RA7725) and a good epoxy like West
Systems.
Usually 3 plys is good enough for most fairings. The 7725 is a "over one, under
2" weave that wraps well around corners, much better than a standard weave.
Remember to use peel ply on top of the layup to help speed the sanding/filling
time to get ready to paint. It also helps prep time if you need to add an additional
layer of glass after you've done the orginal layup. (Remember that peel
ply has to be removed before additional plys are applied).
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Feb 25, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: fiberglass weight?
What weight of fiberglass do you gurus recommend for stuff like the canopy, intersection
fairings, etc? On the -8A canopy plans I could't find any suggestion
from Vans...maybe I'm just missing it somewhere...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A canopy stuff...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have a friend that has two hangars and only one plane. He wants to
purchase an RV6A ASAP.
I have another friend that would like an RV6. I believe he is ready but
he did procrastinate the last time I tried to line him up with one.
If anyone wants to sell please contact me off list at
John(at)fureychrysler.com
Best wishes,
John RV6A O360 180hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass weight? |
Hey Mark,
Sounds like you are coming along pretty good. For your canopy and all the
rest I would recommend E-Glass from 5 to 7 oz/sq. yd. On mine I seem to
remember using 5 3/4 oz. cloth with 4 layers going over and around the front
on the forward canopy. For the canopy skirt and the empenage I seem to
remember three layers.
Hope this helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: fiberglass weight?
>Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:28:45 GMT
>
>
>What weight of fiberglass do you gurus recommend for stuff like the canopy,
>intersection fairings, etc? On the -8A canopy plans I could't find any
>suggestion from Vans...maybe I'm just missing it somewhere...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A canopy stuff...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Can't get static RPM - Help - |
Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
-79-CM Sensenich metal prop using one of the cheapie Vans Chineese RPM
indicators. We can't get more then 1725 static at full throttle, full
rich, 30 inches at full throttle throw, at 50' MSL. Searched the
archives but no one seems to have this low of a static RPM. I did find a
few hits about the inaccuracy of the Chineese RPM indicators. I plan on
using a optical tach reader to verify the analog guage, but does anyone
have any ideas on the seemingly limited static RPM ?? A Bar graph engine
analyzer shows 4 normal temps and a mag check indicates that both mags
are firing. Its a easy engine to start so I guess I timed it correctly.
Any ideas ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Ignition systems |
Anyone have any thoughts or experience on the Plasma I versus the Plasma II
Lightspeed ignition systems?
The Plasma I system is more money and they claim there is more performance
to be had with it.
Russ
HRII, Maui
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Mark: I waited until it was in the mid to high 80s F and then drilled mine
(in the sun just to be sure the plexi was really warm) just like it says in
the manual with no problems. I also used plexi bits graduated in fractions
from a local plastics store to enlarge the holes in the plexi.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get static RPM - Help - |
Let us know what the optical tach reveals, A fluorescent light works just
as well at select RPMs, one of which I believe is 1800 RPM. Since you have
a good prop is seems safe to assume that it is not overpitched. I don't
know what static others get with the FP prop but some props have a rather
low static due to cavitation until they unload on the takeoff roll.
See what others get for static and check the RPM. I hope it's the tach.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Can't get static RPM - Help -
>
> Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
> -79-CM Sensenich metal prop using one of the cheapie Vans Chineese RPM
> indicators. We can't get more then 1725 static at full throttle, full
> rich, 30 inches at full throttle throw, at 50' MSL. Searched the
> archives but no one seems to have this low of a static RPM. I did find a
> few hits about the inaccuracy of the Chineese RPM indicators. I plan on
> using a optical tach reader to verify the analog guage, but does anyone
> have any ideas on the seemingly limited static RPM ?? A Bar graph engine
> analyzer shows 4 normal temps and a mag check indicates that both mags
> are firing. Its a easy engine to start so I guess I timed it correctly.
> Any ideas ???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
This has probably been mentioned numerous times, but I had success with the
standard #40, then enlargening with plexi-bits (albeit a unibit seems to
work good). However, I used a slow-turning electric hand drill, not my jack
fast, super light, small Sioux air-powered palm drill.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
> Mark: I waited until it was in the mid to high 80s F and then drilled
mine
> (in the sun just to be sure the plexi was really warm) just like it says
in
> the manual with no problems. I also used plexi bits graduated in
fractions
> from a local plastics store to enlarge the holes in the plexi.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skip the Plexi-drill bits (was Drilling Canopy) |
I also heated my canopy and garage and used a #40 drill bit. was almost through
and let it cock sideways slightly and got a crack.
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> Here is how we drilled and attached our canopy (no cracks)!!
>
> 1. We heated the garage to about 90 degress 6 hours prior to starting to
> work.
>
> 2. We drilled the initial holes with a #40
>
> 3. Opened up the #40 hole to the proper size with a Uni-Bit (single flute no
> grabbing!
>
> When we installed the canopy and shirt we use semi-weld (Pro-seal) in
> caulking type tube that premixes it ( you'll need to use/borrow a
> specialized caulking type gun to use the tubed material. We used minimal alu
> pop rivets (mostly as keeper riviets). The semi-weld method is the same as
> used on the Christian Eagles and Pits (without any rivets). You can also
> paint the semi-weld after.
>
> Works and looks great and has some ability to flex (read deal with stress,
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (Nianitc, CT)
>
> >From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
> >Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:06:51 -0600
> >
> >
> >Guys,
> >
> >Van's instruction manual for my -8A says to drill the initial holes for
> >the canopy with a regular #40 drill bit (through both the plexi and the
> >canopy frame) and the later use a #27 plexiglass bit to enlarge the holes
> >in the canopy and a #30 regular bit to enlarge the holes in the frame.
> >
> >
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get static RPM - Help - |
In a message dated 02/25/2002 2:35:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
> Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
> -79-CM Sensenich metal prop
On my 160 hp RV-6A with the metal Sensenich, I get in the neighborhood of
2150 static at 1040 MSL. I'd be dissatisfied with anything under 2100 rpm,
and would not stop looking til I found the cause. Naturally, the tach is the
primary suspect.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get static RPM - Help - |
Your correct on the 1800 rpm with fluorescent lights. I used this on Sat
night
to verify my Michell tach which turns out to be dead on at 1800 rpm. I
did
this check out of curiosity after finding out from another builder that
I
could check the tach against the airport lighting. The week before I
had
checked the tach against a digital tach and found my Mitchell was 20 rpm
low
at 2600 rpm.
As far as cavitation goes I was told that when the prop cavitates is has
less
drag and should show a higher static runup and when it loads on the
takeoff
roll the RPM would go down.
I started with a CCT (cheap chineese tach) which at one point showed me
2200
rpm static but would drop to 1750 on the roll and then increase to 2500
or
more as airspeed increased. Then one day it failed to come up to 2500
and just
showed 1750 even though I was indicating 180 mph at 7000' so I new it
was
wrong. I replace the CCT 3 days later with a good American Made Mitchell
which
works great.
Gary Zilik
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> Let us know what the optical tach reveals, A fluorescent light works just
> as well at select RPMs, one of which I believe is 1800 RPM. Since you have
> a good prop is seems safe to assume that it is not overpitched. I don't
> know what static others get with the FP prop but some props have a rather
> low static due to cavitation until they unload on the takeoff roll.
>
> See what others get for static and check the RPM. I hope it's the tach.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Can't get static RPM - Help -
>
> >
> > Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
> > -79-CM Sensenich metal prop using one of the cheapie Vans Chineese RPM
> > indicators. We can't get more then 1725 static at full throttle, full
> > rich, 30 inches at full throttle throw, at 50' MSL. Searched the
> > archives but no one seems to have this low of a static RPM. I did find a
> > few hits about the inaccuracy of the Chineese RPM indicators. I plan on
> > using a optical tach reader to verify the analog guage, but does anyone
> > have any ideas on the seemingly limited static RPM ?? A Bar graph engine
> > analyzer shows 4 normal temps and a mag check indicates that both mags
> > are firing. Its a easy engine to start so I guess I timed it correctly.
> > Any ideas ???
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skip the Plexi-drill bits (was Drilling Canopy) |
Finished the awful task just last month. Got the room hot 80+, and made sure
plexi was heat soaked before starting. Also placed a fan heater under canopy
while working with plexi. Used #40 to drills pilot holes. Then used plexi-bit
from Avery, turning very slow in battery drill. Keep VERY light pressure on
drill, let the bit do the cutting. No cracks so far.
Make sure canopy frame fits exactly (nearest 1/16th) before drilling the
first holes!! You'll be happy later.
That was the easy part, wait for the fiberglass and rear skirts.
Dave Burnham
Lincolnshire, IL
RV6A
engine being shipped tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com" ,
RV-List Digest Server
| Subject: | Re: Can't get static RPM - Help - |
Great reply....Thanks for the data. I printed it so I can tape it to my
cowl while I look into the problem. Ed e-mailed me to keep him informed
on what I find out. Again, thanks for the data. SEEYA
"Cole, Ed" wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I've got a 79" Sensenich with a 160 hp. Static yields close to 2200 RPM.
> I believe he told me that static should be 2100 RPM in another email.
> An optical tach ($45 from Chief) showed my tach off by 50 RPM on the low
> side.
> I had the opposite problem and couldn't get more than 2450 max RPM.
>
> I'm assuming that the engine is new and timed correctly..
>
> Attached is what Ed Zurcher from Sensenich sent me.
> I took my accessory case off to change oil pumps per the AD and found
> the gear timing of the left mag off by one tooth. This was on an engine with
> 1200 hrs
> rebuilt by Mattituck ! I was able to get up to 2500 rpm afterwards.
>
> Ed is the Sensenich rep. email him with your questions at:
>
> Ed Zercher [ez(at)sensenich.com]
>
> Ed,
>
> You are correct that you should be able to get to 2600 RPM and at lower
> altitudes you should be able to exceed it (but don't)! And yes, you do have
> the correct propeller. The problem is, your static RPM is fine, which means
> that when the prop is unloaded, it should easily reach the 2600 but yours
> doesn't. Believe it or not, we have run into this problem before. Actually,
> Lycoming has run into it and has educated us as to the probable cause. At
> least it fixed the 2 guys who had the same problem before you. I am
> attaching the following instructions for you to check out:
>
> ==>Incorrect Static or Level Flight RPM Readings
> * Have customer verify TACH readings
> - Mechanical Tachometers are notoriously incorrect, sometimes by as much as
> 250 RPM.
> - Verify by the use of a digital or optical hand held TACH.
> - A "VIEW-THRU" or "PROP-TACH" are good choices.
> - Local FBOs generally have a way in which to help a customer check their
> tach.
> * During the TACH verification have the customer try the following:
> - Try to lean the engine. A small amount of leaning should increase
> the
> static RPM. If the engine quits after a small amount of leaning then the
> engine is running to lean. If excessive leaning is required then the engine
> is running too rich.
> - Pull Carb heat on. If functioning correctly, this should cause a
> small
> drop in RPM due to induction air being heated. . If the engine should quit
> after Carb heat is pulled on then the engine is running to lean.
>
> * Have customer verify that INTERNAL engine timing is correct.
> - Incorrect internal timing can cause serious performance problems such as
> low Static but correct Flight RPM.
> - Remove upper plug from cylinder #1
> - Remove rocker from cylinder #2
> - Rotate crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC)
> - Looking at cylinder #2 rocker arms, rotate the propeller back and
> forth.
> You should see one valve opening and the other closed when you rotate in one
> direction and the opposite value open when the propeller is rotated the
> other way. This is the overlap area.
> - If the propeller has to be rotated more than 20 degrees to either
> side of
> TDC then the timing gears are one (1) tooth out of time. This must be
> corrected prior to any further diagnostics are performed.
> * For EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT, have customer verify the following additional
> checks:
> - Insure that the throttle is connected properly, ie. Does the
> throttle
> value open fully when the throttle is the the full RPM position.
> - Insure that the induction system is functioning properly, ie. is the
> carb
> heat closing properly (don't want inadvertant heating of the induction air
> because this causes power loss) or are there any blockages in the induction
> system.
> - Is the engine fitted with the proper carb. Each installation
> requires a
> certain carb and settings based on induction system, exhaust, etc. Have the
> customer check with the Kit manufacturer (1st) and Lycoming (2nd) to verify
> proper components.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: philip condon [SMTP:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
> > Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 11:35 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Can't get static RPM - Help -
> >
> >
> > Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
> > -79-CM Sensenich metal prop using one of the cheapie Vans Chineese RPM
> > indicators. We can't get more then 1725 static at full throttle, full
> > rich, 30 inches at full throttle throw, at 50' MSL. Searched the
> > archives but no one seems to have this low of a static RPM. I did find a
> > few hits about the inaccuracy of the Chineese RPM indicators. I plan on
> > using a optical tach reader to verify the analog guage, but does anyone
> > have any ideas on the seemingly limited static RPM ?? A Bar graph engine
> > analyzer shows 4 normal temps and a mag check indicates that both mags
> > are firing. Its a easy engine to start so I guess I timed it correctly.
> > Any ideas ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition systems |
>
>
>Anyone have any thoughts or experience on the Plasma I versus the Plasma II
>Lightspeed ignition systems?
>
>The Plasma I system is more money and they claim there is more performance
>to be had with it.
>
>Russ
>HRII, Maui
>
>
FWIW, I have a Lightspeed II, in place of the right mag, and an impulse
coupled Bendix max on the left. When the mag craps out, another Lightspeed
will go in it's place. I'm totally pleased with the single LSI, and think
it should be standard equipment on all Lycosaurs and Contineanderthals!
The adjustable advance and panel display of the LSI 1 may be beneficial to
you, if you like to tinker with such things. I just let it do it's thing
automatically, which it does quite well, with no input from me. Either way
you choose to go, you'll have a smoother running engine, that starts right
now, and fires $2 auto plugs. Those $20 airplane plugs are a joke.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can't get static RPM - Help - |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04:31:01 PM
This thread makes me think that its most important to heat soak your
canopy. I took all my scrap and just abused the heck out of it and never
got anything to crack. Used #40's on the first holes and even hogged em out
a little once through the bars to make a little extra room for the clecoes
to expand. I never got anything to crack. It was a normal brisk South Fla
day 98 degrees and I sat the canopy out in the sun for an hour before I did
anything. I pretty much lost my fear of it cracking from the #40 drill. It
sure was not my technique, had to be the heat. I like the idea from a few
years back where the guy put the space heater in the cockpit with the
canopy on. I think I would put a couple of blankets over the canopy to hold
in the heat before I cut and drill. Finally, damn heat is good for
something.
Eric
SportAV8R(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 02/25/2002 03:33:29 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can't get static RPM - Help -
In a message dated 02/25/2002 2:35:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
> Helping a friend with the first START-UP OF A 160 hp RV-4 with a
> -79-CM Sensenich metal prop
On my 160 hp RV-6A with the metal Sensenich, I get in the neighborhood of
2150 static at 1040 MSL. I'd be dissatisfied with anything under 2100 rpm,
and would not stop looking til I found the cause. Naturally, the tach is
the
primary suspect.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Well,
One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different RV-8s
is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the rudder
without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's seem
to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
usual.
I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion lower
than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly extend
your toes to activate the braking.
The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking your
plane fore and aft.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8 wing bolts |
Parker,
They are locking nuts, but I can't remember the number. You will need
about three washer per bolt and Van did not give me enough washers.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: 8 wing bolts
>
> Installed the wings on my 8 today for the first time. Needless to say,
the
> hangar looks like a very different place. Unfortunately, I can't find
> anywhere in the plans that has a callout for the bolt and nuts that hold
the
> wings on. I think I know which bolts, but which nuts should I use? Am I
> missing something?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
In a message dated 2/25/02 8:02:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< eric
your doing this rebuild yourself right? would you recommend the average joe
blow with some mechanical ability to tackle such a project. i have an engine
that was pickled by the government for 20 years. it only has 600 hrs since
new, and all they did to it to bring it into service was to put chrome
cylinders on it. i looked inside the spark plug holes and every opening i
could find, it looks good, but i can't see the important things, cam, crank,
etc... i'll never really sleep good at night until i have a thourough
inspection.
what do you think.
are you going to use the silk thread gasket to reaseal the crankcase halves?
scott
tampa
chasing rf grimilins >>
I'm not Eric, and I don't play one on TV, but I can tell you that Lycomings
are very easy to rebuild. Read the manual, get the video from Mattituck
(maybe there is one from Superior too, since they are offering the XP-360?),
watch the video a couple dozen times, then put a VCR out in your rebuild shop
so you can watch snippets as you go through the process. I found that the
only fiddly stuff was getting the pushrods installed, because you have to
install pushrods, measure valve clearances, remove the pushrods, and repeat
until you have the right length pushrods in the right places.
As someone noted, find a friend who has done this before, even better, an A&P
or AI, just to make sure you don't make a boo-boo on something that should be
easy. While you've got your AI buddy's ear, get him/her to check AD's and
Service Bulletins for you so you can address those while you've got the
engine disassembled.
One thing I found when rebuilding my engine is that I could have probably
gotten a Don George or Bart Lalonde engine for not much more than what it
cost me to purchase a core and rebuild my engine. I suspect Don, Bart, and
others in the business get better prices on engine cores, new components, and
machine shop work than an individual will. On the other hand, I know that
everything inside my engine is first rate (not that Bart, Don, or others in
the rebuild business don't supply good components).
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
> One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
RV-8s
> is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the rudder
> without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's seem
> to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
> usual.
I'll document that for the RV-8!
> I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion lower
> than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly extend
> your toes to activate the braking.
> The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking
your
> plane fore and aft.
Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 147.6 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
I modified my brake pedals and my "temporary" mod has been installed for
many years now. I cut a piece of cedar 4x4 into a wedge, maybe 1" at
the thick end, covered it with aluminum and bolted it to the brake
pedal. I found that shape worked well in my -6A which uses the brakes a
lot. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: brakes
Well,
One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
RV-8s
is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the
rudder
without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's
seem
to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem,
as
usual.
I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion
lower
than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly
extend
your toes to activate the braking.
The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking
your
plane fore and aft.
W
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I modified my brake pedals and my "temporary" mod has been installed for
> many years now. I cut a piece of cedar 4x4 into a wedge, maybe 1" at
> the thick end, covered it with aluminum and bolted it to the brake
> pedal. I found that shape worked well in my -6A which uses the brakes a
> lot.
Is this solution for the opposite problem? The original question was how to
avoid using brakes while taxiing, using only rudder. I have noted the same
problem. Before the weather got cold, my solution was to fly without shoes.
I really liked the feedback one gets without shoes getting in the way. The
other solution was already mentioned, specifically, put ones shoes outboard
of the brake pedal when using only rudder for taxiing.
Incidentally, if your feet are low on the assemblies, you probably are not
getting much inadvertant brake action anyway (feet not far away from the
brake pivot).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 94 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lift reserve ? |
what is it?
________________________________________________________________________________
this might be interesting for someone looking for a good used engine
Item # 1708180899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
Hook up with other builders in the area, makes building much more enjoyable
and saves on mistakes.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Leading Edge Bend |
Okay,
I think I'm officially frustrated. After spending a good deal of time
bending my rudder leading edges, I still have to slightly pull them
together to line up the prepunched holes. At the very top of the rudder,
where the skin overhang is fairly small, I have achieved success, but
the lower two sections are not quite overlapped. I can pull them into
alignment with one hand, while I insert a cleco with the other, but I
still need to pull them together.
Is this acceptable? If not, any ideas on how to get them closer? I have
a good start on the bends (following Van's technique, duct tape and a
pipe/dowel rod, etc), but just can't seem to get the final bend.
Thanks
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading Edge Bend |
hi bob
i think you will find that EVERYONE has had to do it that way. i know i and a
few others that had a very tight fit there.
pull it , rivit it, move on !
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8 wing bolts |
That explanes it! I got too many.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8 wing bolts
>
> Parker,
> They are locking nuts, but I can't remember the number. You will need
> about three washer per bolt and Van did not give me enough washers.
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: 8 wing bolts
>
>
> >
> > Installed the wings on my 8 today for the first time. Needless to say,
> the
> > hangar looks like a very different place. Unfortunately, I can't find
> > anywhere in the plans that has a callout for the bolt and nuts that hold
> the
> > wings on. I think I know which bolts, but which nuts should I use? Am
I
> > missing something?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Parker
> >
> >
> > F. Parker Thomas
> > PO Box 190894
> > San Francisco, CA 94119
> > me(at)parkerthomas.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 IO360 Snorkel and Electrosystems starter |
Any suggestions on how to make Van's IO360 snorkel fit around an
Electrosystems starter? From just holding the snorkel up there, it looks as
if the starter makes the snorkel hit about 3/4 of an inch too low on the
fuel air intake and about 3/4 of an inch outside the front baffle. I
suppose I could modify the snorkel, but I'm not a fiberglass god (and don't
want to become one). I'm looking into finding a skytech starter since the
instructions say the snorkel fits around that one. I would love to find a
cheaper route than purchasing a new starter (anyone want to trade?). Any
other thoughts or ideas? Please?
Thanks.
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading Edge Bend |
Avery sells an edge roller tool. It's like a rounded puck with a couple of
white rollers. You roll it along the edge of the *over*lapping leading edge
skin and twist "inward" and it rolls a nice little inwardly-oriented lip.
It helps to close that gap once the leading edge halves are riveted
together. Hard to describe in email...
In the "RV Assembly" SportAir workshop, we were taught to use duct tape to
hold the suckers together while drilling (after rolling the criminy out of
them, of course). It works.
The RV-6 had thinner skins, or something like that, so it's tougher on
the -7 and -8 (assuming that's what you're building). But be persistent and
you can close up your leading edges nicely. Mine are FAR from perfect, but
I don't really care much about stuff that doesn't show up outwardly.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Leading Edge Bend
>
> Okay,
> I think I'm officially frustrated. After spending a good deal of time
> bending my rudder leading edges, I still have to slightly pull them
> together to line up the prepunched holes. At the very top of the rudder,
> where the skin overhang is fairly small, I have achieved success, but
> the lower two sections are not quite overlapped. I can pull them into
> alignment with one hand, while I insert a cleco with the other, but I
> still need to pull them together.
>
> Is this acceptable? If not, any ideas on how to get them closer? I have
> a good start on the bends (following Van's technique, duct tape and a
> pipe/dowel rod, etc), but just can't seem to get the final bend.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Moser
> East Bethel, MN
> RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
Dear Friends, my Father and building partner have been working on the
wing skeleton and are currently fitting the main ob and ib skins. We
keep on wondering where we should run the conduit line.. The placement
of the pitot is a gimmie. If we open the tooling holes to 3/4 or 7/8
with a die the hole will intersect the leading edge flange and I think
it will interfere with the aileron bellcrank. My thought was to open up
completely new holes along the top side of the rib aft the first
lightning hole. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be great
Shane Summerhays
Flying rv6
RV8 under const
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 IO360 Snorkel and Electrosystems starter |
Parker,
We had a similar situation and took the following actions: Returned our
starter for a magflight. Ground off one of the corners of the starter flange
that was not attached tot he engine; We also used our heat gun to slightly
modify the snorkel so that it would fit.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 IO360 Snorkel and Electrosystems starter
>Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 22:49:20 -0800
>
>
>Any suggestions on how to make Van's IO360 snorkel fit around an
>Electrosystems starter? From just holding the snorkel up there, it looks
>as
>if the starter makes the snorkel hit about 3/4 of an inch too low on the
>fuel air intake and about 3/4 of an inch outside the front baffle. I
>suppose I could modify the snorkel, but I'm not a fiberglass god (and don't
>want to become one). I'm looking into finding a skytech starter since the
>instructions say the snorkel fits around that one. I would love to find a
>cheaper route than purchasing a new starter (anyone want to trade?). Any
>other thoughts or ideas? Please?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Parker
>
>
>F. Parker Thomas
>PO Box 190894
>San Francisco, CA 94119
>me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GASOLATOR BRACKET |
I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER LEFT SIDE
OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL PICTURES OF GASOLATOR
LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY WERE ATTACHED.
BILL
RV-8QB, N128RB
Bhess36(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading Edge Bend |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
02/26/2002 08:42:04 AM
What others have said is correct.
Don't worry about having to pull the skins together to cleco .... and then
rivet them. I too have used duct tape to help hold them together while
drilling and riveting. This helps alot. I never used as much duct tape
in my life as I have in this RV project.
I found the .020 skins to be really tough to bend. It took me a couple
hours to get it like I wanted (which even then I wouldn't say was
absolutely perfect). I had to really pull hard to get the two lined up
before clecoing them for the last time.
In orther words, what you are experiencing is normal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | re: Drilling canopy |
> This thread makes me think that its most important to heat soak your
> canopy. I took all my scrap and just abused the heck out of it and never
> got anything to crack. Used #40's on the first holes and even hogged em
out
> a little once through the bars to make a little extra room for the clecoes
> to expand. I never got anything to crack. It was a normal brisk South Fla
> day 98 degrees and I sat the canopy out in the sun for an hour before I
did
> anything. I pretty much lost my fear of it cracking from the #40 drill. It
> sure was not my technique, had to be the heat. I like the idea from a few
> years back where the guy put the space heater in the cockpit with the
> canopy on. I think I would put a couple of blankets over the canopy to
hold
> in the heat before I cut and drill. Finally, damn heat is good for
> something.
The trick is the heat. The plexi gets very pliable as the heat goes up. To
have 98F to work at is pure heaven for plexi. The fact that you didn't get
any cracks in your plexi drilling experiments was probably because of the
heat and that maybe you didn't put the right stress on the pieces. A canopy
is in stress, somewhat, and is prone to crack when you don't come close to
abusing it like you did your test pieces. One little jerk at the wrong
time can send a very long crack across one. Check the archives if you don't
believe me. I guess I was fortunate that I did a lot of reading before I
did mine. Still, mine was cracked after I started testing the airplane. I
got the corner caught on my tip up and cracked the corner off. It's OK and
doesn't show much; but, it still makes me sick because I could have been
more careful. Cold and stress work well together to break a canopy.
I've read this thread pretty much, now, and still feel more comfortable
using a plexi bit, a slow drill, and a unibit to do my drilling through the
plexi. If I do another canopy, which may happen if I ever order that -7A,
I plan to drill my canopy just like I did it before. One more thing before
I stop on this thread, I did make sure I sanded every time I made a cut,
drilled a hole, etc. I sanded those edges carefully to be sure there were
no nicks that could send a crack flying across the plexi. Just as
importantly, I'd use a small grinding stone to bevel each hole when it was
drilled so that there were no sharp edges for stress points. I didn't drill
very many holes at a time, either. I'd drill a few and clean them up. Yep,
I took my canopy off many times to do this operation; but, I felt more
comfortable about it. This may seem like overkill; but, it was a method
described by some pros who do it for a living. That worked for me! One can
find that info back in the archives. Go look for yourself. It's really
informative.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Couselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
> RV-8s is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the
rudder
> without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's seem
> to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
> usual.
I sent a note the other day. I'm not sure if I sent it to an individual or
the list. Anyway, here is what I did and do.
First, I'd read that it's a problem before I got mine finished. With that,
I used a method someone else told me about. I cut two pieces of the oil
line hose I had left over from my oil cooler installation. I glued them
onto the bottoms of the stirrups by using a little RTV and some wrap ties
until the RTV dried. That hose is pretty thick; so, it gave me a little
more clearance from the pedals when I taxi. Much better.
Secondly, I discovered that I still could touch the pedals while landing, or
taking off; so, I decided the best place for my feet was on the outsides of
the stirrups while doing that. It's not hard to do unless one has larger
shoe sizes. I'm a little guy; so, it's not a problem. By doing that, I
don't touch the brakes; but, I can easily slide my feet back into position,
if I need to touch them.
Those two things work for me. No more grabbing of brakes at the wrong time.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Randy,
Funny you should ask this about the -8. I was at Jerry's last week and he
is/was having the same problem on his -8A. He built and added some
extensions to the bottom of each pedal, about an inch and a half or so. He
says that he now rests the balls of his feet on the extended portion and it
seems to help. Although he was quick to point out that it isn't conclusive
yet and he is trying to figure out why it happens to begin with.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
>Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:51:22 -0800
>
>
> > One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
>RV-8s
> > is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the rudder
> > without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's
>seem
> > to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
> > usual.
>
>I'll document that for the RV-8!
>
> > I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion
>lower
> > than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly
>extend
> > your toes to activate the braking.
> > The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking
>your
> > plane fore and aft.
>
>Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, 147.6 hrs
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft Performance Spreadsheets |
Hi,
Here are a couple of articles/spreadsheet downloads that
might be helpful to some of you who are interested in
acquiring aircraft performance data specific to your
airplane.
http://www.avweb.com/articles/bootstp1/ (fixed pitch)
http://www.avweb.com/articles/bootstp2/ (constant speed)
-Glenn Gordon
N442E (Test flight Thursday, weather permitting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Roll your own" engine overhaul |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
As long as the subject has come up on doing your own engine overhaul.
. .
The option I took was to acquire my own core and to be my own general
contractor. I made arrangements with a local IA to go wth me to visit
the engine dismantler . When we arrived the pieces of the engine were
spread out on the floor of the garage. The IA went through the whole
collection with me to verify everything was there. It was important
to have a knowledgeable person to visually inspect parts and tell me
what could go another round and what couldnt I secured a written guarantee
from the seller that the Crank would be serviceable, paid him, and took
the engine home in boxes.
I bought the parts list and overhaul manual. The IA told me what pieces
would have to be overhauled, which would need to be replaced. I called
the various shops across the country advertising in Trade-a-plane and
asked local mechanics for recommendations. The crankcase went to Texas,
the camshaft to Arkansas, the Crank to Oklahoma. I bought new oil pump
impeller gears from Superior, new cylinder assemblies from Lycoming,
etc. It took about a year to get the new and yellow-tagged pieces assembled.
Since I was building anyway I had the time. When all was completed,
I took the boxes of gleaming parts back to the IA and he did the assembly.
Going this route saved me money and gave me the opportunity to learn
a lot about the engine in the aircraft. Other than flying the airplane,
it was probably the most satisfying part of the project. It also allowed
me to spread the cost of the engine over an extended period of time
Going through the experience "de-mystified" the engine.
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Ignition Question. |
I understand that the Lightspees Electronic (and others) Ignitions
advance the timing for beter engine operation. With the (one) old mag
and (one) new Lightspeed option......I assume the old mag fires at
whatever (20-24 degrees BDC) and the Lightspeed fires at its advanced
setting of 40 (ish) degrees. My question is if the intake mixture was
ignited from the old mag firing......what's left(mixture wise) for the
Lightspeed to fire ?? I know there is a hole in my logic here because
everyone seems to be gaining a benefit with this setup. ?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Roll your own" engine overhaul |
> The option I took was to acquire my own core and to be
> my own general contractor.
[snip]
So, wha'd it end up costing you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
My first suggestion is to skip the conduit. I made plans initially to do
this but bagged the idea as just extra weight for dubious advantage, and
instead just ran the wires through grommeted holes in the ribs. As I see it,
the only thing you're buying with conduit is the ability to easily re-run
wires out to the wings. By the time I had my wings done the only thing that
I figured I *might* ever do is add a wingtip antenna for a second radio some
day. But even that is doable after closing in a -6. In an -8 I think it'd be
easier what with all the extra access covers.
As for where to run it -- it kind of depends on where your wires are coming
out of the fuselage. My strobe power supply is in the baggage compartment,
so I chose to run the landing and nav lights back there then out with the
strobe wires. Ended up high and aft of the first lightening hole. If you
have a strobe power supply forward of the spar or out in the wingtips it
would probably make more sense to run the wires on the front side of the
spar. I'm not real familiar with the -8 spar but in the -6 this would
involve adel or some other sort of clamps to the spar behind the fuel tanks,
then holes/grommets in the ribs close to the spar the rest of the way.
You can get the strobe wiring kit before you get the strobes and supplies
which makes it easy to run the wires while the wings are still open.
Wherever you run it make sure of course thast it doesn't interfere with the
pushtubes...!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> Dear Friends, my Father and building partner have been working on the
> wing skeleton and are currently fitting the main ob and ib skins. We
> keep on wondering where we should run the conduit line.. The placement
> of the pitot is a gimmie. If we open the tooling holes to 3/4 or 7/8
> with a die the hole will intersect the leading edge flange and I think
> it will interfere with the aileron bellcrank. My thought was to open up
> completely new holes along the top side of the rib aft the first
> lightning hole. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be great
>
> Shane Summerhays
> Flying rv6
> RV8 under const
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Ignition Question. |
The principle hole in your logic is that the mag would fire BEFORE the
electronic...
The electronic firing is variable, but, can be as high as 40 degrees BEFORE
TDC... If the mag fires at 24 degrees before TDC, the questionn (with less
hole-ly logic) is "what is left for the old mag to fire?"
Jim.
Tampa
I have this exact set up.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of philip condon
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Question.
I understand that the Lightspees Electronic (and others) Ignitions
advance the timing for beter engine operation. With the (one) old mag
and (one) new Lightspeed option......I assume the old mag fires at
whatever (20-24 degrees BDC) and the Lightspeed fires at its advanced
setting of 40 (ish) degrees. My question is if the intake mixture was
ignited from the old mag firing......what's left(mixture wise) for the
Lightspeed to fire ?? I know there is a hole in my logic here because
everyone seems to be gaining a benefit with this setup. ?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Roll your own" engine overhaul |
> > The option I took was to acquire my own core and to be
> > my own general contractor.
>
> So, wha'd it end up costing you?
Even though he may be able to tell you that, it's kind of an iffy answer.
There are so many variables based on the condition of the parts when one
gets them. I did my engine and was very happy with the results and cost.
I saved enough on mine that I was able to buy the entire firewall forward,
including the new type cowl and a metal prop, for a couple of thousand less
that what I would have paid for a new same model engine before shipping.
The list below should give you a good idea what one can go through. This
one is a O320-E2D 150hp engine and new Sensenich metal prop. Notice the
final price on the firewall forward.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
4500.00 __Engine core.
500.00 __Matt's labor(A&P friend)
2064.00 __Send cylinders for rebuild to like new tolerances. (Chromed)
1116.95 __Send all case parts for cleaning and inspection. Polish. Ney
nozzles.
Case was repaired and recertified.
462.34 __Send cam and crank for inspection and polishing. All ADs.
1001.66 __Engine internal parts.
703.12 __Engine internal parts.
407.68 __Engine internal parts.
-815.35 __Refund on wrong bearings (Matt ordered the wrong parts)
358.28 __Correct bearings
359.14 __Oil pump housing
-182.94 __Restock wrong engine parts (Not sure what these were)
125.60 __Spark plugs.
43.17 __Carb parts
0.00 __New engine log.
10643.65 Total engine parts and rebuild
368.41 __Carborator and finger strainer. (bought carb from a friend)
1765.00 __Prop
609.00 __Exhaust
294.45 __Engine mounts and bolts
45.00 __Oil quick drain -
117.83 __Cables, ends, and bracket
150.00 __Alternator kit.
45.00 __Voltage regulator
185.00 __Baffle kit
227.00 __Oil cooler
97.63 __Heat box, scat tube, and flange
105.00 __Heat muffs
30.61 __Starter and master relays, diodes
163.58 __Fuel pump.
830.95 __Mags and harness.
341.69 __Starter
35.75 __Primer solenoid
43.15 __Front spinner bulkhead
165.10 __Vacume pump repair kits
105.26 __Misc hardware
502.24 __Misc fittings
6227.65 Total Accesaries and firewall forward
16871.30 Total Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
In my 8, I drilled new holes in the wing ribs just aft of the main spar
(about 3/4 inch) and just above the bottom skin (about 3/4 inch). Did not
use conduit, just popped in plastic snap bushings and ran all the wing wires
through those. Works fine, does not interfere with push tubes nor bellcrank.
You might pull enough wire to put a service loop at one of the access holes.
Greg Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shane
Summerhays
Subject: RV8-List:
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Shane Summerhays"
Dear Friends, my Father and building partner have been working on the
wing skeleton and are currently fitting the main ob and ib skins. We
keep on wondering where we should run the conduit line.. The placement
of the pitot is a gimmie. If we open the tooling holes to 3/4 or 7/8
with a die the hole will intersect the leading edge flange and I think
it will interfere with the aileron bellcrank. My thought was to open up
completely new holes along the top side of the rib aft the first
lightning hole. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be great
Shane Summerhays
Flying rv6
RV8 under const
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: GASOLATOR BRACKET |
I drilled the firewall and bolted a vans gascolator right to it. A friend
did it a better way, he used about 3/4 inch standoffs (alum tube with bolts
running through them) so the GC mounts away from the FW, and thus its drain
clears the lower engine mount tube.
Greg Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BHESS36(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: GASOLATOR BRACKET
--> RV8-List message posted by: BHESS36(at)aol.com
I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER LEFT
SIDE OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL PICTURES OF
GASOLATOR LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY WERE ATTACHED.
BILL
RV-8QB, N128RB
Bhess36(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition Question. |
The Electronic fires at 38 degrees BTDC and the Mag at 25 Degrees BTDC so
the electronic fires first. The amount of time the crank takes to go from 38
BTDC to 25 BTDC is measured in Nanoseconds and the flame front takes a
little time (slightly more nanoseconds)to progress to the other side of the
cylinder so there is still something for the mag to ignite.
Gary Zilik
philip condon wrote:
>
> I understand that the Lightspees Electronic (and others) Ignitions
> advance the timing for beter engine operation. With the (one) old mag
> and (one) new Lightspeed option......I assume the old mag fires at
> whatever (20-24 degrees BDC) and the Lightspeed fires at its advanced
> setting of 40 (ish) degrees. My question is if the intake mixture was
> ignited from the old mag firing......what's left(mixture wise) for the
> Lightspeed to fire ?? I know there is a hole in my logic here because
> everyone seems to be gaining a benefit with this setup. ?????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Re: GASOLATOR BRACKET |
I attached mine on the lower left of the FIREWALL. The
gascolator bracket I made attaches to the diagonals on
the firewall assuring a VERY rigid installation.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
>
> I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER LEFT SIDE
> OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL PICTURES OF GASOLATOR
> LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY WERE ATTACHED.
>
> BILL
> RV-8QB, N128RB
> Bhess36(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The problem is that the hinge point for the pedel is too low in relation to
the hinge point where the master cylinder attaches. Look closely at how the
mechanism works and you'll see the effect.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
>
> Randy,
>
> Funny you should ask this about the -8. I was at Jerry's last week and he
> is/was having the same problem on his -8A. He built and added some
> extensions to the bottom of each pedal, about an inch and a half or so.
He
> says that he now rests the balls of his feet on the extended portion and
it
> seems to help. Although he was quick to point out that it isn't
conclusive
> yet and he is trying to figure out why it happens to begin with.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> >Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:51:22 -0800
> >
> >
> > > One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
> >RV-8s
> > > is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the
rudder
> > > without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's
> >seem
> > > to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem,
as
> > > usual.
> >
> >I'll document that for the RV-8!
> >
> > > I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion
> >lower
> > > than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly
> >extend
> > > your toes to activate the braking.
> > > The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking
> >your
> > > plane fore and aft.
> >
> >Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
> >
> >Randy Lervold
> >RV-8, 147.6 hrs
> >www.rv-8.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic lines and
nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side. [RV6] I
have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been some burst
lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
Bill RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition Question. |
Actually the incremental crank rotation is measured in milliseconds, 0.8 of
'em at 2700 RPM. But what's a factor of a million between friends?
Dennis Persyk N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Question.
>
> The Electronic fires at 38 degrees BTDC and the Mag at 25 Degrees BTDC so
> the electronic fires first. The amount of time the crank takes to go from
38
> BTDC to 25 BTDC is measured in Nanoseconds and the flame front takes a
> little time (slightly more nanoseconds)to progress to the other side of
the
> cylinder so there is still something for the mag to ignite.
>
> Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: STOP FLOODING ME |
| From: | bertrv6(at)juno.com |
Al:
When I subscribed to the list, the first thing
I did was to copy to my printer the instructions
that Mastt Dralle, has written, about all matters
concerning the list..questions etc..
The only way to unsubscribe is to follow to
the letter... just like your p.c., if you have
a , when it does not belong the computer will
not do anything until you correct the mistake
same with this.
You must put only and only Unsubscribe
nothing else at all...
takes 24 hours to clear.
hope this will help
bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GASOLATOR BRACKET |
Bill,
See http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm for my solution.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 147.6 hrs
www.rv-8.com
>
> I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER
LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL
PICTURES OF GASOLATOR LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY
WERE ATTACHED.
>
> BILL
> RV-8QB, N128RB
> Bhess36(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
While effective on the RV-6 pedals that won't work at all on the RV-8...
they are a totally different design.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL
EAA Tech Counselor
> > One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
> > RV-8s is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the
> rudder
> > without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's
seem
> > to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
> > usual.
>
> I sent a note the other day. I'm not sure if I sent it to an individual
or
> the list. Anyway, here is what I did and do.
>
> First, I'd read that it's a problem before I got mine finished. With
that,
> I used a method someone else told me about. I cut two pieces of the oil
> line hose I had left over from my oil cooler installation. I glued them
> onto the bottoms of the stirrups by using a little RTV and some wrap ties
> until the RTV dried. That hose is pretty thick; so, it gave me a little
> more clearance from the pedals when I taxi. Much better.
>
> Secondly, I discovered that I still could touch the pedals while landing,
or
> taking off; so, I decided the best place for my feet was on the outsides
of
> the stirrups while doing that. It's not hard to do unless one has larger
> shoe sizes. I'm a little guy; so, it's not a problem. By doing that, I
> don't touch the brakes; but, I can easily slide my feet back into
position,
> if I need to touch them.
>
> Those two things work for me. No more grabbing of brakes at the wrong
time.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'randy@rv-8.com'"@matronics.com
Randy,
The mod I did will work for an 8. on the bottom of the pedal I put a piece
of 3/4" x 1/8" angle running along the bottom edge with one flange facing up
and attached to the back of the pedal with countersunk screws and the other
flange facing forward. I then took a peice of 2" by 1/8" wall 6061 tube and
split it lengthwise into two half cylinders. I attached this to the forward
facing flange of the 3/4 with an426-4 s in a manner that you don't see the
3/4" angle.
I'll send a drawing as well, but it will be stripped for the list, maybe
someone could put it on a server? Its from memory so the pedals may be
differnt but you'll get the idea. Its a cross sectional drawing, left is the
8, right is the 6 roughly
W
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five different
RV-8s
> is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the rudder
> without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The 8's seem
> to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem, as
> usual.
I'll document that for the RV-8!
> I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion lower
> than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly extend
> your toes to activate the braking.
> The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is rocking
your
> plane fore and aft.
Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 147.6 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Gascolator Mount Question |
Can someone send me a good description or picture of how they mounted a
gascolator to a RV-4? I cannot seem to find a good rigid way I am happy with
and would like some help! Thanks
-Mike Kraus
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Throttle/Mixture Linkages |
I have a RV-4 with an O320-E2D engine, a marvel carb, and Van's throttle and
mixture linkages. I am trying to use Van's throttle and mixture bracket and
cannot seem to find a good way to route the cables from the throttle quadrant
to the carb. Can someone give me some advice or send me some pictures? My
throttle quadrant in on the left side of the cockpit. Thanks
Mike Kraus
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy Laynard |
Can someone give me some good ideas on how to hold up a RV-4 canopy? I saw
one at SNF last year that used 2 hinged linkages, and another that had a gas
strut. Does anyone have any specifics or pictures on how to incorporate?
Thanks
Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
| Subject: | Starter for sale |
If anyone needs a good starter, I have a two year old B&C 149 tooth 12
volt starter for sale for $360. Purchased from Vans for $525 two years
ago. Reply off net.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition Question. |
Phil,
We have that setup on our IO-360 equipped RV-8A and it worked wonderful. We
would start the engine on the LSE, then switch the key to both. In flight
at 2300 squared we were burning right at 8.0 gph, 1.2 less than the Lycoming
performance chart said it should be. All be could figure out about the
spark timing on the magneto and the difference on the LSE was that it
prolonged the spark duration inside the cylinder helping to make a much more
effecient burn rate. We also noticed that the CHT were down and the EGT
were up. All still within the normal range though.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Question.
>Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:55:11 -0500
>
>
>I understand that the Lightspees Electronic (and others) Ignitions
>advance the timing for beter engine operation. With the (one) old mag
>and (one) new Lightspeed option......I assume the old mag fires at
>whatever (20-24 degrees BDC) and the Lightspeed fires at its advanced
>setting of 40 (ish) degrees. My question is if the intake mixture was
>ignited from the old mag firing......what's left(mixture wise) for the
>Lightspeed to fire ?? I know there is a hole in my logic here because
>everyone seems to be gaining a benefit with this setup. ?????
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
So by adding extensions to the bottom of the pedal they are below the pivot
point of the pedal. When you put the balls of your feet on the lower
extensions you are raising the plunger on the brake cylinder.
Mike R.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
>Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:44:12 -0800
>
>
>The problem is that the hinge point for the pedel is too low in relation to
>the hinge point where the master cylinder attaches. Look closely at how the
>mechanism works and you'll see the effect.
>
>Randy
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
>
>
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > Funny you should ask this about the -8. I was at Jerry's last week and
>he
> > is/was having the same problem on his -8A. He built and added some
> > extensions to the bottom of each pedal, about an inch and a half or so.
>He
> > says that he now rests the balls of his feet on the extended portion and
>it
> > seems to help. Although he was quick to point out that it isn't
>conclusive
> > yet and he is trying to figure out why it happens to begin with.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
> > >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> > >Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:51:22 -0800
> > >
> > >
> > > > One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five
>different
> > >RV-8s
> > > > is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't push on the
>rudder
> > > > without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot. The
>8's
> > >seem
> > > > to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a problem,
>as
> > > > usual.
> > >
> > >I'll document that for the RV-8!
> > >
> > > > I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added portion
> > >lower
> > > > than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to knowingly
> > >extend
> > > > your toes to activate the braking.
> > > > The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is
>rocking
> > >your
> > > > plane fore and aft.
> > >
> > >Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
> > >
> > >Randy Lervold
> > >RV-8, 147.6 hrs
> > >www.rv-8.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A QB Questions |
Allen Checca
815 467 7573
Starting on the rudder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Subject: RV-List: RV6A QB Questions
I'd like to ask one of you 6AQB builders a few questions about the kit.
Could one of you please send me a note with a telephone number I can call to
talk with you.
Thanks...
David Schaefer
EMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Gascolator Mount Question |
I used an Andair gascolator. Mounted it to a piece of heavy alum angle and
then used adel clamps to clamp the angle to the lower most engine mount
crosspiece. I'll try to find a pic of it.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: N8292W(at)aol.com [mailto:N8292W(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Gascolator Mount Question
Can someone send me a good description or picture of how they mounted a
gascolator to a RV-4? I cannot seem to find a good rigid way I am happy
with
and would like some help! Thanks
-Mike Kraus
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
Don't forget the brass inserts that go in the end of the brake lines.
Without them you can't tighten the compression nuts tight enough to keep the
lines from popping off.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Oakland, Ca
>
> While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic lines and
> nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side. [RV6] I
> have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been some burst
> lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
> Bill RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | C/S Prop Installation Help |
I have reached a major milestone in my project and am about to install a
constant speed prop on my RV-4 O360. I am a little bit intimidated about
installing it.
I am looking for installation tips for the installation. I have built a
sling so I can support the prop and try to line it up with the crank flange,
but with all six prop bolts being the same length and having to use an open
end wrench to turn them, it seems very difficult to thread them onto the
crank. I am particularly concerned about cross threading the bolts. Also,
is there a proper clocking angle for the prop in relation to TDC on the
engine?
What have you other builders done?
Thanks,
Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
I used regular primer inside my cowl, then I glued aluminum foil ( Heavy )
below where the exhaust pipes are close to the cowl. This was to avoid
blistered paint , which I had on my first RV-4 . Those pipes get HOT and the
foil reflects the heat away from the cowl.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
And this is good, bad, or indifferent?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> So by adding extensions to the bottom of the pedal they are
> below the pivot
> point of the pedal. When you put the balls of your feet on the lower
> extensions you are raising the plunger on the brake cylinder.
>
> Mike R.
>
>
> >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> >Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:44:12 -0800
> >
> >
> >The problem is that the hinge point for the pedel is too low in
> >relation to the hinge point where the master cylinder attaches. Look
> >closely at how the mechanism works and you'll see the effect.
> >
> >Randy
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> >
> >
> > > -->
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > Funny you should ask this about the -8. I was at Jerry's
> last week
> > > and
> >he
> > > is/was having the same problem on his -8A. He built and
> added some
> > > extensions to the bottom of each pedal, about an inch and
> a half or
> > > so.
> >He
> > > says that he now rests the balls of his feet on the
> extended portion
> > > and
> >it
> > > seems to help. Although he was quick to point out that it isn't
> >conclusive
> > > yet and he is trying to figure out why it happens to begin with.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To:
> > > >Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
> > > >Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:51:22 -0800
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > One thing I've found on about three different RV-6s and five
> >different
> > > >RV-8s
> > > > > is the brake pedals are desgined such that you can't
> push on the
> >rudder
> > > > > without applying some brake, particularly when turning a lot.
> > > > > The
> >8's
> > > >seem
> > > > > to be worse than the 6's, yet Vans doesn't think there is a
> > > > > problem,
> >as
> > > > > usual.
> > > >
> > > >I'll document that for the RV-8!
> > > >
> > > > > I've modified the pedals in my 6 such that there is a added
> > > > > portion
> > > >lower
> > > > > than the pivot which your foot pushes against. One has to
> > > > > knowingly
> > > >extend
> > > > > your toes to activate the braking.
> > > > > The test is to work the pedals back and forth while someone is
> >rocking
> > > >your
> > > > > plane fore and aft.
> > > >
> > > >Anyone have a fix for the RV-8?
> > > >
> > > >Randy Lervold
> > > >RV-8, 147.6 hrs
> > > >www.rv-8.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:AIRELON TRIM |
I just install the trim for the wings last weekend and I don't see where it
does much good. When you move the ailerons the trim moves to, I had a
slightly heave wing, not hardly enough to worry about, but would like to fly
hands off.
The directions don't say anything about how tight to pull the springs so
they may be to tight, I stretched them about 1 1/2 inches each . Help
needed or I will have to buy a auto-pilot next. :)
First leagal trip after test hours this weekend cruised 115 miles at 215mph
(with tail wind)
Keep pounding them rivits it will be a blast when you are done.
Ken S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crawling paint |
How about using high temperature enamel silver to reflect the heat. The
stuff I found is good to 1200 deg.
Dick White
RV-8 damn near ready for inspection
Newport, Or
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Crawling paint
>
> I used regular primer inside my cowl, then I glued aluminum foil ( Heavy )
> below where the exhaust pipes are close to the cowl. This was to avoid
> blistered paint , which I had on my first RV-4 . Those pipes get HOT and
the
> foil reflects the heat away from the cowl.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
> While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic lines
and
> nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side. [RV6]
I
> have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been some
burst
> lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
Can't speak for righthand brakes, I only have them on the pilot's side. But
I will say that I have on my todo list to replace the plastic tee fitting
with brass, and maybe replace the lines with steel braided ones. I'm not
happy with the plastic stuff -- can't keep it from seeping around the tee
fitting, and if I tighten the nuts too far then they'll strip. And yes I
used the brass inserts.
What are others' experiences with this? Has anyone just replaced the plastic
tee fitting with brass, and if so how'd that work?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: C/S Prop Installation Help |
> I have reached a major milestone in my project and am about to install
a
> constant speed prop on my RV-4 O360. I am a little bit intimidated about
> installing it.
> I am looking for installation tips for the installation. I have built
a
> sling so I can support the prop and try to line it up with the crank
flange,
> but with all six prop bolts being the same length and having to use an
open
> end wrench to turn them, it seems very difficult to thread them onto the
> crank. I am particularly concerned about cross threading the bolts.
I was able to turn them by hand, mostly. What bites is that you can only
turn each one about 1/2 turn at a time. The most important thing about
turning these bolts in is to keep them even. If a bolt is cross threading,
you would know it right away since they are big bolts, and the torque to
cross thread would be large. Use something like vaseline on the O-ring, and
be sure to not damage it when hefting the prop on initially. The prop can
only go on one of two ways, due to the way the bosses and holes are. Don't
forget the alternator belt. The prop can be put on alone, but I think I'll
get help next time I do it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 94 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:AIRELON TRIM |
Ken Stribling wrote:
>
>
> I just install the trim for the wings last weekend and I don't see where it
> does much good. When you move the ailerons the trim moves to, I had a
> slightly heave wing, not hardly enough to worry about, but would like to fly
> hands off.
> The directions don't say anything about how tight to pull the springs so
> they may be to tight, I stretched them about 1 1/2 inches each . Help
> needed or I will have to buy a auto-pilot next. :)
>
> First leagal trip after test hours this weekend cruised 115 miles at 215mph
> (with tail wind)
>
> Keep pounding them rivits it will be a blast when you are done.
>
> Ken S.
>
Ken, not sure which plane you have, but on the RV-6 the trim control
needs to be adjusted with enough friction that the control can't be
moved with the ailerons.
The manual trim works beautifully when properly installed and adjusted.
An auto pilot is nice, too! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:AIRELON TRIM |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
You gotta tighten the dickens out of the pinch block on the aileron trim
twist handle.
on 2/26/02 19:47, Ken Stribling at bbattery(at)bendcable.com wrote:
>
> I just install the trim for the wings last weekend and I don't see where it
> does much good. When you move the ailerons the trim moves to, I had a
> slightly heave wing, not hardly enough to worry about, but would like to fly
> hands off.
> The directions don't say anything about how tight to pull the springs so
> they may be to tight, I stretched them about 1 1/2 inches each . Help
> needed or I will have to buy a auto-pilot next. :)
>
> First leagal trip after test hours this weekend cruised 115 miles at 215mph
> (with tail wind)
>
> Keep pounding them rivits it will be a blast when you are done.
>
> Ken S.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
those damn brakes. Mine have started leaking after 4 years and after
tightening the plastic several times I resorted to teflon tape. Five
wraps of teflon and the fittings finally stopped dripping. One problem
is having a pipe thread and only one direction that will work.
Straight, instead of 90's, may actually work better. It seems that the
brake fluid eventually makes the nylon change. I would find the
fittings hand loose after knowing I had cranked them down hard before.
Didn't have these problems with the T-craft cable brakes, they NEVER
worked! Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes
> While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic
lines
and
> nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side.
[RV6]
I
> have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been
some
burst
> lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
Can't speak for righthand brakes, I only have them on the pilot's
side. But
I will say that I have on my todo list to replace the plastic tee
fitting
with brass, and maybe replace the lines with steel braided ones. I'm
not
happy with the plastic stuff -- can't keep it from seeping around the
tee
fitting, and if I tighten the nuts too far then they'll strip. And yes
I
used the brass inserts.
What are others' experiences with this? Has anyone just replaced the
plastic
tee fitting with brass, and if so how'd that work?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/26/2002 12:50:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Rv6238(at)aol.com writes:
> While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic lines and
> nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side. [RV6] I
>
> have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been some burst
>
> lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem?
All bursting hydraulic brake lines of which I am familiar have fallen under
the following cases:
-The nylon tubing is plumbed all the way to the brake caliper which heat
soaks, tubing locally softens and bursts. Bad new kiddies as the MIL-H-5606
fluid is flammable when ignited by red hot brake discs. Don't do this on any
plane, especially those having wheel pants or fast landing speeds as the
caliper can't shed the heat as readily.
-The nylon tubing isn't the proper recipe and/or wall thickness (there are
thin wall versions available for air pressure service that have much lower
pressure ratings). The Nylo-Seal (NSR) has a thicker wall and is better
suited for hydraulic service than is the Nylaflow tubing.
-The nylon tubing isn't nylon at all but is actually Polyethylene (Poly-Flow)
tubing and has a very low pressure rating, has a tendency to split and should
only be used for instrument and low pressure service.
-The proper ferrules/inserts were either not installed inside the tubing when
they were installed in their compression fittings and not properly tightened
to become permanently captivated by the tubing. This can allow the tubing to
extrude out of the fitting under high pressure.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
Can you use the direct-connect mini reservoirs on an RV-6? You might check
into this as they work GREAT on the RV-8...
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm and click on the "Aircraft Spruce
A-600 Brake Reservoirs" link. Get rid of those stinking leaking plastic
tubes if you can!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 149 hrs. and now night current as of tonight
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes
>
> > While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic lines
> and
> > nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side.
[RV6]
> I
> > have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been some
> burst
> > lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
>
> Can't speak for righthand brakes, I only have them on the pilot's side.
But
> I will say that I have on my todo list to replace the plastic tee fitting
> with brass, and maybe replace the lines with steel braided ones. I'm not
> happy with the plastic stuff -- can't keep it from seeping around the tee
> fitting, and if I tighten the nuts too far then they'll strip. And yes I
> used the brass inserts.
>
> What are others' experiences with this? Has anyone just replaced the
plastic
> tee fitting with brass, and if so how'd that work?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Wing Conduit, LRI Tubing, Tank End Plates... |
This is what I am doing... On another note... How did those of you
that have an AOA unit run your tubing AFTER you had your wings done?
Also, when you pro-seal your tank end plates on, do you also pro-seal
the senders on too, or is the rubber gasket adequate?
Thanks... -Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randall
Henderson
Subject: Re: RV-List:
My first suggestion is to skip the conduit. I made plans initially to do
this but bagged the idea as just extra weight for dubious advantage, and
instead just ran the wires through grommeted holes in the ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C/S Prop Installation Help |
Ted, you definitely want to be careful here, but as you'll see it's really
pretty easy. A couple of tips: rather than the sling you might consider
having a building assistant stand on a stool up front and hold the prop in
his arms at abdomen level. This will let him support the prop comfortably
while you carefully and sequentially tighten the bolts. IMPORTANT TIP: put
some Dow DC-4 on both the engine flange and especially inside the prop hub
and on the o-ring. This will let it slide in place without binding or
twisting the o-ring and help ensure a good seal.
The only hard part is getting the safetywire in the pairs of bolts.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 149 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
>
> I have reached a major milestone in my project and am about to install
a
> constant speed prop on my RV-4 O360. I am a little bit intimidated about
> installing it.
> I am looking for installation tips for the installation. I have built
a
> sling so I can support the prop and try to line it up with the crank
flange,
> but with all six prop bolts being the same length and having to use an
open
> end wrench to turn them, it seems very difficult to thread them onto the
> crank. I am particularly concerned about cross threading the bolts.
Also,
> is there a proper clocking angle for the prop in relation to TDC on the
> engine?
> What have you other builders done?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame |
Listers,
I am about to begin building the cabin frame, and need some assistance.
The manual says that these parts are very close to design dimensions. By
laying the F-631's on a table with the nominal dimensions of 42 1/8" wide
and 17 7/8" high I find a gap of approx 1/4" between the two halves at the
top - is this normal ? if so has anyone filled the front gap with a small
bonded strip.
The sides are a little bit wavy, it is necessary to adjust these to
perfection or is a little waviness acceptable. Unfortunately I do not have
access to any aircraft to look at to see what others have done.
I intend on using screws to hold the canopy in place, has anyone any
experience in this, ie is it OK to put a thread in the frame or insert
rivnuts or similar?
I would appreciate any help/hints and tips in this area.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6 Fuselage,
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame |
If this is a tip up canopy, I can answer part of this. I used screws to hold
my canopy in place. They were little #6 screws, stainless with Tinnerman
washers and lock nuts on the inside. On the F-631's I had a gap, more like
1/8 inch and I left the gap in place. It is not noticeable, but I didn't
build a show plane either. I threaded the screws into the F-631's and wish
now that I had used flush rivnuts. They never came loose, but I worry that
they might some day.
Steve Soule
N227RV RV-6A
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
I am about to begin building the cabin frame, and need some assistance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Comeaux <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Folder. How you install. |
Under Windows NT 4.0 or Windows 95. To install the fonts, follow the instructions
listed below for your operating system environment.
To install the fonts under Windows 95
There are 2 ways to install the fonts under Windows 95:
1. Install Adobe Type Manager 4.0 if you have not already done so. ATM 4.0
can be installed by running the PageMaker installer, choosing the Custom install
option and then choosing the ATM 4.0 item. The fonts are automatically
installed along with ATM.
If you remove the fonts or if you have ATM 4.0 Deluxe installed and don't want
to replace it with the standard version of ATM follow these steps:
1.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Laynard |
go to matt dralles site and look at his gas strutt
N8292W(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Can someone give me some good ideas on how to hold up a RV-4 canopy? I saw
> one at SNF last year that used 2 hinged linkages, and another that had a gas
> strut. Does anyone have any specifics or pictures on how to incorporate?
> Thanks
> Mike Kraus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Randy Lervold wrote:
>>
>>
>> Can you use the direct-connect mini reservoirs on an RV-6? You might check
>> into this as they work GREAT on the RV-8...
>> http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm and click on the "Aircraft Spruce
>> A-600 Brake Reservoirs" link. Get rid of those stinking leaking plastic
>> tubes if you can!
>>
>> Randy Lervold
>> RV-8, 149 hrs. and now night current as of tonight
>>
>Don't know what stinking leaking plastic tubes you are reffering to
>Randy. My RV-6 does not use any stinking leaking plastic tubes. There is
>not, nor was there called for any plastic tubes in the brake system I have.
>
My RV-6QB, a much much later model than Jerry's, did come with plastic
tubes for the supply side of the brake system. They leaked for the one
year until I replaced the nylon tees at the top and bottom of the tubes
with brass fittings. Problem solved, even though I kept the stinkin'
plastic tubes.
On the other brake topic, I have had zero problems with inadvertant brake
application with my top hinged brakes. Maybe I set the tops a little
further foward than some people. I do have some rubber hose around the
bottom tube.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Yeah, I once had a t-cart. The brakes would barely keep you from taxiing
into things!
There is another picture of the acs reservoirs at
http://www.skywagon.homestead.com/plumbing.html
Sure makes for a neat installation. Cessna has used this system for many
years (actually, the reservoir is integral to the cylinder, but it's close).
JOhn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kevin lane
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes
those damn brakes. Mine have started leaking after 4 years and after
tightening the plastic several times I resorted to teflon tape. Five
wraps of teflon and the fittings finally stopped dripping. One problem
is having a pipe thread and only one direction that will work.
Straight, instead of 90's, may actually work better. It seems that the
brake fluid eventually makes the nylon change. I would find the
fittings hand loose after knowing I had cranked them down hard before.
Didn't have these problems with the T-craft cable brakes, they NEVER
worked! Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes
> While were on brakes. I have plumbed my right brakes with plastic
lines
and
> nylon fittings as per Van's accessory brake set for the right side.
[RV6]
I
> have been told by some guys at the airport that there have been
some
burst
> lines with this setup. Any experiences with this problem? Thanks.
Can't speak for righthand brakes, I only have them on the pilot's
side. But
I will say that I have on my todo list to replace the plastic tee
fitting
with brass, and maybe replace the lines with steel braided ones. I'm
not
happy with the plastic stuff -- can't keep it from seeping around the
tee
fitting, and if I tighten the nuts too far then they'll strip. And yes
I
used the brass inserts.
What are others' experiences with this? Has anyone just replaced the
plastic
tee fitting with brass, and if so how'd that work?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | When to Wire Wings |
Okay, my wings are drilled, deburred, dimpled, and skins are ready to rivet. I
intend
to position lights / strobes in the wing tips.
Can someone describe what they did to get electrical out to the tips? I'm looking
for
a fairly detailed description. Did you drill extra holes in the ribs or run through
one of
the existing lightening holes? Did you use grommets? Run a piece of PVC?
Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this now, or just
leave the
top skin off and worry about it much later on.
Thanks.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Jerry Springer said:
> Don't know what stinking leaking plastic tubes you are reffering to
> Randy. My RV-6 does not use any stinking leaking plastic tubes. There is
> not, nor was there called for any plastic tubes in the brake system I
have.
They must've changed it after your kit. Mine came with stinking plastic
tubes to run from the brake reservoir down to the master cylinders.
Mine leaks up around the tee fitting at the reservoir. I had the fittings as
tight as I dared given that the plastic threads will strip if too tight,
which I found out the hard way during initial installation. It was okay for
a while but I found it leaking not long ago and was able to easily tighten
the sleeves and easily turn the tee fitting more than half a turn beyond
where it had been. Which of course messes up the geometry of where the tubes
go in.
I can't wait to replace the plastic with something more robust. Next time
you catch me out there I'll show you. Or check out Neuner's plane -- if he
installed the stock system then he has the same thing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame |
David,
I'm about a week ahead of you, apparently. I'm just now starting to attach
the front and back halves of F-631.
The gap is common at top center. I did nothing to cover it. The splice
plate that joins each pair is fine - the gap has no impact on structural
strength.
I took the large particle board that came for making empennage jigs (I'd
already build my empennage before switching to QB), used 3,4,5 triangle to
lay out a perpendicular pencil line up from base/bottom at the plans
specified distance from 1 corner (right corner) to center (21 1/8 or so),
then drew another perpendicular up from that right corner (it wasn't cut
quite square). Then I measured over the 42 1/4 (or whatever) from right to
left and drew another perpendicular line up from base. Then I measured up
the 17 or so inches and drew a horizontal line across where the centers of
631s will meet.
- Then I clamped a piece of 1/8 scrap on the left side perpendicular
about 2 inches up from base and laid left half of 631 against that "stop",
laid right half flush with right edge (or pencil line), lightly clamped the
halves so could slide around until flush with the 17+ inch line at top and
had the width right at or near bottom - and straight edge across top of two
halves was flush for 1.5" or so either side of center, per manual.
-- Noted 2 things: 1) the normal gap of 1/8 to 1/4 at top and 2)
the bottoms of each part of 631 were NOT all the way down flush with bottom
of particle board. I figure that I will simply raise/shim the 631 channels
up slightly before drilling in assembly with the angles that hold 631 to the
canopy rail and gusset.
-- The next pair (front half in my case) didn't have as much gap -
they actually touched at the lower centerline corner but there was 1/8 or
more gap at top; again, didn't reach all the way down the full 17" - no
problem.
In order to fit the F-632 brace to F-606 and get entire assembly clecoed and
jigged into dimensions called for by dwg, I plan to drill out the two round
head rivets at top near center of F-606 baggage compartment bulkhead so as
to eliminate the interference of the 2 rnd heads with the F-632 aft angle,
so it will fit flush to bullkhead, then somehow drill the angle so it will
pick up those two empty holes:
- don't think I can drill from aft (too congested back there),
- so will buy or make another "hole transfer tool" to transfer the 2
bulkhead holes to the F-631 aft angle,
- or wet the end of a -4 rivet with ink and press it thru aft side thru
F-606 holes to mark backside of angle.
The roll bar/cage/channel assembly was a bit intimidating until I got
deeper into it and resolved a number of questions - now it's not a problem.
I'm finally moving forward with my old confidence.
David Carter
RV-6 QB
Nederland, Texas
409-722-7259
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roseblade" <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame
>
> Listers,
>
> I am about to begin building the cabin frame, and need some assistance.
>
> The manual says that these parts are very close to design dimensions. By
> laying the F-631's on a table with the nominal dimensions of 42 1/8" wide
> and 17 7/8" high I find a gap of approx 1/4" between the two halves at the
> top - is this normal ? if so has anyone filled the front gap with a small
> bonded strip.
>
> The sides are a little bit wavy, it is necessary to adjust these to
> perfection or is a little waviness acceptable. Unfortunately I do not have
> access to any aircraft to look at to see what others have done.
>
> I intend on using screws to hold the canopy in place, has anyone any
> experience in this, ie is it OK to put a thread in the frame or insert
> rivnuts or similar?
>
> I would appreciate any help/hints and tips in this area.
>
> Regards
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6 Fuselage,
> Dubai, UAE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mystery Votage Surge |
I have a toyota alternator that I run backward. No problem for a couple
years. However it has always fluctuates anywhere from ten to 14.5 volts. My
wife and I flew into a pancake breakfast the other day and upon returning she
said when carb heat is applied the voltage surges (Needle pegs). So I sort of
laught this off because we all know that this coudn't possibly be. I sneaked
out later flew around the patch and it did peg momentarily with carb heat
application. I checked the cable to make sure it wasn't touching other wiring
etc. no luck. I checked with several other builders and the only thing we
could come up with is some tail draging RV driver snuck into my hanger and
danced around the plane with dead chicken in hand.
Joe
RV6A 0360 CP
P.S. Thinking I was doing a good thing I encouraged the wife to help in the
building and to get her pilot's license. Is a little female knowledge a good
thing?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Hey Laird,
What are those braided stainless hoses you used for your brakes?
Ed Holyoke
Jerry Springer said:
> Don't know what stinking leaking plastic tubes you are reffering to
> Randy. My RV-6 does not use any stinking leaking plastic tubes. There
is
> not, nor was there called for any plastic tubes in the brake system I
have.
I can't wait to replace the plastic with something more robust. Next
time
you catch me out there I'll show you. Or check out Neuner's plane -- if
he
installed the stock system then he has the same thing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Paul,
I don't have my finish kit yet so am not sure which hole you are talking
about.
- Is it at the fwd of the tip up, on centerline?
- Or is it on each side, at fwd of each side skirt?
Do you mean, "Omit that hole - don't drill it with anything."?
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
> Yes, it is very cheap insurance, however, I cracked my first canopy, even
> with a plexi bit in a warm shop. Why? Well, it has to do with a certain
> hole on the tip up canopy. If you are building a tip up, do NOT drill the
> forward most hole in the canopy where the side skirts screw in to. There
is
> alot of pressure there, and there have been many cracks in this location.
I
> drilled it and got a nasty crack. $1000 later and I had a new canopy...
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
>
> >
> > I think that a plexi bit ( we call them dubbed drills) is really
cheap
> > insurance when drilling holes in a $1000.00 canopy.....
> >
> > Dave Burton
> > RV6, wings
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sunday, February 24, 2002, at 08:06 PM, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> > > -snip-
> > > > 1) Is it really ok to use a standard (i.e. NON-plexiglass) #40 bit?
> > Way
> > > > back yonder in my A&P school days we were taught to never, ever use
a
> > > > standard bit on plexiglass, unless the rake angle of the cutting tip
> was
> > > > modified....but if Uncle Van says to do it, and you all out there
> swear
> > > > it works, then I'll save my money and not buy a #40 plexi bit.
> > > >
> > > > -snip-
> > >
> > > I just did this last month. I got my shop as warm as possible, and
then
> > > left a space heater in the fuse to get the canopy very warm. The
> regular
> > > #40 bit worked fine, although I was careful to use very little
> pressure.
> > >
> > > After experimenting on scrap, I actually didn't use the plexiglas bits
> at
> > > all, but used a Unibit chucked in a (slow) electric drill to enlarge
> each
> > > hole.
> > >
> > > The holes are all beautiful, and no cracks (so far anyway...).
> > >
> > > FWIW I have a Todd's "dark" canopy in 3/16.
> > >
> > > James Freeman
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: When to Wire Wings |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
12:00:54 PM
Go to Home Depot and get some black conduit. Drill new holes in the corner
of your main ribs near the main spar and the skin you will rivet on first.
Rivet that skin on, then cram in your conduit. Take a piece of string and
tie a little loop in one end, then use your air hose to blow the string
through. Now you can pull wires through when you are ready and you don't
have to worry about this any more.
Eric
"Joe Larson" (at)matronics.com on 02/27/2002 10:56:36 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: When to Wire Wings
Okay, my wings are drilled, deburred, dimpled, and skins are ready to
rivet. I intend
to position lights / strobes in the wing tips.
Can someone describe what they did to get electrical out to the tips? I'm
looking for
a fairly detailed description. Did you drill extra holes in the ribs or
run through one of
the existing lightening holes? Did you use grommets? Run a piece of PVC?
Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this now, or
just leave the
top skin off and worry about it much later on.
Thanks.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
You kinda answered you own question there, didn't you.
Don't mean to be a smartass....(well sort of...). What is it that you want to know
about them????
L
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Feb 27, 2002 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brakes
Hey Laird,
What are those braided stainless hoses you used for your brakes?
Ed Holyoke
Jerry Springer said:
> Don't know what stinking leaking plastic tubes you are reffering to
> Randy. My RV-6 does not use any stinking leaking plastic tubes. There
is
> not, nor was there called for any plastic tubes in the brake system I
have.
I can't wait to replace the plastic with something more robust. Next
time
you catch me out there I'll show you. Or check out Neuner's plane -- if
he
installed the stock system then he has the same thing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Conduit, LRI Tubing, Tank End Plates... |
I installed Van's black conduit in the wings. The conduit is more than
large enough for my wiring and I intend to pull the AOA tubes through the
same conduit (plenty of room, no stress, why not?).
Vince
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Vansairforce" , "Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
>, "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
>Subject: RV-List: Wing Conduit, LRI Tubing, Tank End Plates...
>Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 22:24:49 -0700
>
>
>This is what I am doing... On another note... How did those of you
>that have an AOA unit run your tubing AFTER you had your wings done?
>
>Also, when you pro-seal your tank end plates on, do you also pro-seal
>the senders on too, or is the rubber gasket adequate?
>
>Thanks... -Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randall
>Henderson
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
>
>My first suggestion is to skip the conduit. I made plans initially to do
>this but bagged the idea as just extra weight for dubious advantage, and
>instead just ran the wires through grommeted holes in the ribs.
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
David,
I'm not Paul, but when I drilled my tip-up canopy, I omitted the
forward-most hole on each of the side skirts. This area seemed to be in some
stress as I drilled the others.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont N227RV RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter(at)datarecall.net]
Paul,
I don't have my finish kit yet so am not sure which hole you are talking
about.
- Is it at the fwd of the tip up, on centerline?
- Or is it on each side, at fwd of each side skirt?
Do you mean, "Omit that hole - don't drill it with anything."?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <13brv3(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Mystery Votage Surge |
etc. no luck. I checked with several other builders and the only thing we
could come up with is some tail draging RV driver snuck into my hanger and
danced around the plane with dead chicken in hand.
-----------------
That'll teach you go build a trigear. The only cure is fuel injection :-)
Seriously, it would seem that the cable must be touching something it's not
supposed to. Does it make any difference if you slowly pull the carb heat,
or if you do it quickly? If you turn on the master, with the engine not
running, and exercise the carb heat cable, do you see anything happen to the
voltage gauge? This is a long shot, but you might also put a voltmeter on
the carb heat cable housing, and see if it shows anything while you exercise
the cable.
Good luck,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 95 hours) FOR SALE
RV-3B, 10751, Turbo 13B Rotary engine- Be Afraid :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Laynard |
> > Can someone give me some good ideas on how to hold up a RV-4 canopy? I
saw
> > one at SNF last year that used 2 hinged linkages, and another that had a
gas
> > strut. Does anyone have any specifics or pictures on how to
incorporate?
> go to matt dralles site and look at his gas strut.
Matt's installation is a good reproduction of how I made my brace. If you
travel through his web site, on the "new" pictures, there is a series of
photos of the gas strut. You will notice on the first picture, the label on
the strut says something about a Boeing part number. Can you get these at
Auto Zone? No. They are the same strut used to hold the carry-on bagage door
open in the passinger cabin of a Boeing 727. It may also be used on other
models. Where do you get these? Know someone that mechanics for the
airlines? Ask them to borrow one for you. Don't know if there is a similar
part at Auto Zone.
This setup is the cleanest installation of those I have seen.
My installation differs from Matt's in that I have a single angle securing
the bottom of the strut; Matt has two, one forward, one aft. I figured, if
the canopy was going to be jettisoned in a baleout, I didn't want it
flopping around, held to the fuselage by a heavy duty support brace.
Hopefully, we will never have to test this in actual flight conditions. I
can send photos if you need them, but Matt's are pretty good.
This installation has held the canopy open in all conditions I have
encountered, incuding winds, with a little help from the pilot. The
overcenter solid brace may be better in high winds, but is more of a pain to
close. The piece of rope may work but looks tacky. With the strut, you still
have to be careful you don't slam the canopy closed as it doesn't do much to
LOWER the canopy slowly like a car hatchback door. Someone once asked what
kept the canopy from slamming into the fuselage, or the locking pins from
hitting the cockpit opening and I answered "Intellegence." I keep it from
doing that. Never had a problem, but, as with everything related to flying,
you have to pay attention. You don't walk off to pay for fuel with the
canopy open in a high wind and expect it to stay open.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gascolator Mount Question |
> Can someone send me a good description or picture of how they mounted a
> gascolator to a RV-4? I cannot seem to find a good rigid way I am happy
with
I have a solidly mounted gascolator that is enclosed in an aluminum bracket,
which is bolted to the firewall. Solid mounting, good accessibility to drain
the quick drain. Somewhere I have a drawing of the bracket, of which you
have to modify to fit your airplane, and in a few days I can get out and
take a few pictures of it and send them along. Gotta take the cowling off to
see it.
Mounting the gascolator where it should be (lower central fire wall, cooling
air exit) it is in the flow of hot air from the engine.
With the mounting bracket, the gascolator is covered, making it less of a
heat target, and I have a blast tube to it for cooling. Cool.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oils - Lifters - H2AD |
Scott,
Go to the Mattituck tent at Sun N' Fun at 1pm. Every day, Phil from
Mattituck allows those interested, to tear down, then re-assemble an O-320.
This is great practice. As a professional mechanic, I know that "engines
are all alike, but no two are the same!". I quizzed Phil regarding the
idiosyncrasies of the Lycoming. He was more than happy to show me where the
"gotchas" are.
Charlie Kuss
>
>eric
>your doing this rebuild yourself right? would you recommend the average joe
>blow with some mechanical ability to tackle such a project. i have an engine
>that was pickled by the government for 20 years. it only has 600 hrs since
>new, and all they did to it to bring it into service was to put chrome
>cylinders on it. i looked inside the spark plug holes and every opening i
>could find, it looks good, but i can't see the important things, cam, crank,
>etc... i'll never really sleep good at night until i have a thourough
>inspection.
>what do you think.
>are you going to use the silk thread gasket to reaseal the crankcase halves?
>scott
>tampa
>chasing rf grimilins
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
James,
I just tried to access the file mentioned below. I was denied access
because I'm not a member of the RV-7/7A builders group. I really don't want
to join (I'm building an 8A) however, I'd like to view the files. I'm
sending a copy of this to Doug Reeves (he's the group moderator). I'd like
to request that you make the FILES section of your group available to the
public.
I'm the moderator for the SE Florida RV Builders group (also on Yahoo)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/?yguid=24783642
All our files, photos and bookmarks are available to the public. The only
parts of our site which are private are the membership list and assorted
databases. These areas are kept private so that scum sucking spammers can't
harvest info on the group's membership. I occasionally get requests to join
from unknown persons. I have a "canned" email I send out to all prospective
members to verify that they either are building or own an RV AND that they
are from the SE Florida area. This keeps the blood suckers out.
How about it Doug?
Charlie Kuss
>
>I posted details of my elevator trim tab servo
>installation here:
>
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/files/Trim%20Tab%20Servo/
>
>If anyone has questions or can't get to the files,
>email me: jvarney(at)vfpi.com and I'll send it to ya zipped.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>James J Varney
>RV-7A N53JV (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Conduit, LRI Tubing, Tank End Plates... |
I have to run my wiring out to the tips, but I only have to run my AOA
tubing to the second inspection hole...
I am running my wiring through putting those black plastic bushings with
no conduit...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Conduit, LRI Tubing, Tank End Plates...
-->
I installed Van's black conduit in the wings. The conduit is more than
large enough for my wiring and I intend to pull the AOA tubes through
the
same conduit (plenty of room, no stress, why not?).
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | When to Wire Wings |
Joe,
I agree with Eric. I might ad (for an RV8) if you plan to put your top
skins on first, locate the hole center for each rib 1" from the top flange
and 8 5/8" from the front flange. Doing it at this location clears all
pushrods and keeps the conduit out of your way when riveting the bottom
skins. I used conduit for network wiring, which comes in 1/2 and 3/4 inch,
is semi flexible and blue in color. I also added a support bridge between
the ribs on either side of the bellcrank to assure the conduit had no of
sagging into the bellcrank during high "g's" or heat.
Jack Textor
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skydog-8(at)attbi.com |
Some of you may not realize that Springer built his "6"
before plastic was invented :]
Griff
RV-8
Finish (yeah,right).
>
> Jerry Springer said:
> > Don't know what stinking leaking plastic tubes you are reffering to
> > Randy. My RV-6 does not use any stinking leaking plastic tubes. There is
> > not, nor was there called for any plastic tubes in the brake system I
> have.
>
> They must've changed it after your kit. Mine came with stinking plastic
> tubes to run from the brake reservoir down to the master cylinders.
>
> Mine leaks up around the tee fitting at the reservoir. I had the fittings as
> tight as I dared given that the plastic threads will strip if too tight,
> which I found out the hard way during initial installation. It was okay for
> a while but I found it leaking not long ago and was able to easily tighten
> the sleeves and easily turn the tee fitting more than half a turn beyond
> where it had been. Which of course messes up the geometry of where the tubes
> go in.
>
> I can't wait to replace the plastic with something more robust. Next time
> you catch me out there I'll show you. Or check out Neuner's plane -- if he
> installed the stock system then he has the same thing.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Position Light Wiring |
Wouldn't you know - someone else had asked the same thing the day before,
but I hadn't seen it by the time I posted earlier today.
In any case, I've received a number of emails today, for which I am very
thankful. The gist of the messages is as follows:
1. Do something about it NOW, before I rivet the skins. It would have been
even better if I could have drilled things out before the ribes were riveted
to
the spars.
2. Make NEW holes in the ribs for whatever I do. Most popular location
appears to be behind the main spar near the top skin.
3. Some people are running conduit or lightweight PVC through these holes.
Others are using plastic snap bushings that Vans provides. Note: Vans didn't
used to provide these bushings.
I just got off the phone with Vans and ordered 50 of the bushings. It's more
than I need, but it's only $5 worth of supplies. I'll install the bushings and
a
pull cord now. I can use the pull cord to pull wires later.
Thanks everyone.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | ipack and anywhere map |
What's the latest verdict on the ipack / anywhere combination???
Still looks like a cool idea but I hear stories of to many loose wires, funky user
interfaces ( to small to be used in bumpy air ), and ipacks that need to be
rebooted on a regular basis. Also what about using the ipack in heat? I live
in Texas so a hot cockpit is the norm down here.
Is anyone using this combination that is totally happy with their setup?
Many thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A flying
2,000,000,000 Web Pages--you only need 1. Save time with My Lycos.
http://my.lycos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Russell <ron(at)voyagertravel.com> |
| Subject: | blue mountain avionics |
I am thinking about installing the Blue Mount Avionics EFIS package. Is
anyone flying with one? It sounds like a great system but is it too good to
be true?
Ron Russell
RV6 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ipack and anywhere map |
Disclaimer: I don't own Anywhere Map, nor have I flown with it. I'm a
bit of a gadget freak, so i'd find a way of routing wires if the benefit
was there.
I did spend 10 minutes looking at it at a conference a week ago. To be
perfectly honest, I think it's cr*p. At least the setup that they had.
I have an iPaq (3850), and love it as an organizer. But the intereface
on this Anywhere Map software is waaaaaaay too awkward for me to bother
with. The screen's too cluttered, so I have doubts that i'd be able to
quickly read it while flying. Maybe it's just me.
Personally, I find the NavGPS2 package (http://home.nj.rr.com/navgps/)
to be much more usable and intuitive. No, it doesn't have a basemap
that looks like my chart, but I already have a chart, and it's a damn
sight more readable when i'm scrambling to find something in the cockpit
than it would be on the iPaq. Oh, and NavGPS2 is only $50, and updates
are only $8. So it's a heck of a lot cheaper, too.
-Rob P.
rv7 "at" b4.ca
RV7 Empennage
J Andrews wrote:
>
>What's the latest verdict on the ipack / anywhere combination???
>
>Still looks like a cool idea but I hear stories of to many loose wires, funky
user interfaces ( to small to be used in bumpy air ), and ipacks that need to
be rebooted on a regular basis. Also what about using the ipack in heat? I live
in Texas so a hot cockpit is the norm down here.
>
>Is anyone using this combination that is totally happy with their setup?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | iPAQ/Anywhere Map |
Well, I can only speak for myself. I got the AnywhereMap with the Garmin
GPS35 package about a month ago and here are my observations:
1. Coupling it to the Smart Coupler for NavAid wing leveler operation is
awkward at best because of the mechanical difficulty of getting the output
signals needed to feed he Smart Coupler. It can be done, but not easily.
2. the iPAQ PDA color picture is really nice. Many options exist that are
useful, some cute but not so necessary.
3. The AOPA data base built in is good.
4. The free 6-months update (every, is it, 26-days?) is nice, and $100/year
after that. Compare that to a $75 update fee each time for my Lowrance.
5. My Lowrance GPS is, I believe, easier to program, but that may be because
I am more accustomed to it.
6. Small things to point to with a plastic 'stick' for selection would be
awkward in rought condions, but there is a 'rough air' selection that gives
some rather large screen 'buttons' from which to choose.
7. Customer service is great....e-mail response is almost immediate, and
lots of help available for computer troubles - the software improvements
and updates are typically downloaded to your main computer and then
transfered to your PDA - a simple process.
8. The supplied Garmin GPS35 12-channel unit locks on so quickly its really
astounding.
9. I plan to use the Lowrance GPS as primary unit, running the wing leveler,
and use the Anywhere Map as backup until some other mechanical device is
available to readily pull out the RMC/RMB sentences needed for the Smart
Coupler.
E-mail me for any specific question you may have.
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Additional thoughts on the brakes issue
There are those who have ground looped an airplane, and there are those who
will. I unfortunately am one of those who already has. When it really starts
to go to the point where you may need braking to assist recovery, you won't
have time to move your feet back into the stirrups. Particularly since you
will also need to remove pressure from the rudder to do this.
My recommendation is to modifiy the pedals so that they function like any
other type certified aircraft brakes. IE application of the rudder is
totally independant of application of the brake. Pushing gives rudder,
rocking gives brake, but pushing gives no brake, and rocking gives no
rudder.
Additionally these master cylinders all have a compensating valve that
closes during the first 1/4" of shaft travel. The pedal geometry should be
such that any pushing on the pedal forces this open, until one introduces
ankle rocking to close it and then apply brake. Both Matco and Cleveland
Brakes are designed this way. The return spring for the piston is very
strong, but the return spring that opens the compensating valve is kinda
wimpy. Any slight restriction in pedal travel will leave the valve closed,
so its best if the pedal is designed to actively open this with pedal
pressure until braking is sought.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
David:
We take 2 631A's & rivet 2 632B's(same p/n, different lengths) to them to
get the "rollbar".
Sec A-A wants them to be 1 1/2 inch thick. NOTE; later you will find the
back of the canopy frame is a third F631A.
Don't worry about the height right now. We will attach with two 631 c's &
d's feeties later to the fuselage.
If it is to tall we can trim the bottom, if to short we will fix it when
you drill to the feeties.
notice the tall feetie is outside & the small one is inside.
I was going with the screws & bought the #6 rivnuts, then ended up going
with the pop rivets.
Now the width needs to be right as David indicated. You may want to look
at your fuslage. I think the 42 1/8 is good only if you fuselage is
standard.
If you do the front half first you can use flush rivets. The plexie will
pop rivet on to the rear half later.
Vans call for 1 1/2 spacing, then later they want 2 1/2 for the pop
rivets. I left every other one out on the rear so I could use 1 1/2
spacing.
Now you can see that the width will be controlled by the f631E plates. Do
your home work on the rivet layout for this plates. Notice the f632
brace has a bunch of rivets that have to be considered.
don't clamp to much to make the 1 1/2 width or she will try & twist on
you.
After you get it together, you can fit the feet for the height. I don't
remember if your 606 BH is in or not. I would try & fit the F632 brace &
606 fit all at one time.
Hope this helps cause I am confussed now.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am about to begin building the cabin frame, and need some
> assistance.
>
> The manual says that these parts are very close to design
> dimensions. By laying the F-631's on a table with the nominal
dimensions of 42 1/8"
> wide and 17 7/8" high I find a gap of approx 1/4" between the two
halves
> at the top - is this normal ? if so has anyone filled the front gap
with a
> small bonded strip.
>
> The sides are a little bit wavy, it is necessary to adjust these to
> perfection or is a little waviness acceptable. Unfortunately I do
> not have
> access to any aircraft to look at to see what others have done.
>
> I intend on using screws to hold the canopy in place, has anyone any
> experience in this, ie is it OK to put a thread in the frame or
> insert
> rivnuts or similar?
>
> I would appreciate any help/hints and tips in this area.
>
> Regards
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6 Fuselage,
> Dubai, UAE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: When to Wire Wings |
> Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this now, or
just leave the
> top skin off and worry about it much later on.
Leave the top skins off, you'll be surprised how much you'll be able to do
with the top open. I riveted mine on a day before I painted them. Easy to
rig ailerons, install autopilot, wiring, cleaning out spiders, etc.. What
is the hurry with riveting?
Best advice I ever got was to never rivet anything until you HAVE to.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 94 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Laynard |
In a message dated 2/26/2 5:48:09 PM, N8292W(at)aol.com writes:
<>
I went to the hardware store and got a folding table leg brace. This was
run from a piece of angle bolted to the canopy cross member, to the roll bar
cross member. The angle is attatched to the flange on the canopy end. When
the canopy is open the brace is about horizontal, and locks in place. It is
very easy to close by reaching over my shoulder and lifting the elbow of the
brace to unlock. It's light, simple, easy to install, and looks good ( to me
anyway ). You could probably put some kind of removable pin through the roll
bar so it could be pulled in an emergency.
Pat Allender
RV-4 Flying
Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | When to install baffles |
Is it best/easiest to install the engine baffles while the engine in on the
stand or should I wait until it is bolted to the mounts?
So many questions.....so little time....
Kim Nicholas
RV9
Seattle,WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: blue mountain avionics |
In a message dated 2/27/02 5:25:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ron(at)voyagertravel.com writes:
<< I am thinking about installing the Blue Mount Avionics EFIS package. Is
anyone flying with one? It sounds like a great system but is it too good to
be true?
Ron Russell
RV6 Finish Kit >>
Ron & others looking at EFIS units,
Greg Richter of Blue Mountain was kind enough to come to our last EAA chapter
meeting and show off the system. Everyone in the audience was impressed, and
our chapter is NOT an easy group to impress, since many of the members have
significant experience designing and building stuff like C-5's, C-130's,
P-3's, C-141's, F-22's, Jetstars, etc, etc, in the Lockheed facility about 10
miles down the road. A couple of our chapter members attending the meeting
even have experience developing and installing EFIS systems for Lockmart...
Anyway, those in the know were all impressed with the bang for the buck you
get with Blue Mountain's products, with the high quality of the answers they
recieved to their questions, and with the apparent quality of the system.
I don't have the EFIS, nor am I gonna buy one anytime soon (I don't have the
willpower to build a new panel). However, if I was starting over, and wanted
a high end panel instead of my simple VFR panel, I would look very hard at
the Blue Mountain products.
I'm waiting to hear from Sam Buchanan on how the EFIS lite works out, because
that might be a good investment for me from a safety and utility perspective
- I'd like to have a gyro panel, but have not installed gyros simply because
of cost, weight, and wear issues associated with acro flying. The EFIS lite
still isn't cheap, but it is light and shouldn't suffer acro related gyro
failure.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: When to install baffles |
In a message dated 2/27/02 7:04:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
<< Is it best/easiest to install the engine baffles while the engine in on
the
stand or should I wait until it is bolted to the mounts?
So many questions.....so little time....
Kim Nicholas
RV9
Seattle,WA >>
Everyone I know mounted the engine, then the cowl, then added the baffles.
Since nobody I know has done it any other way, I dunno if that's the best way
or not...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
RV 8 List at Yahoo Groups , rv-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder pedal mod for less sensitive braking was RE: RV-List: |
brakes again
c.ca.us>
Listers,
for those interested, I've posted Wheeler's rudder pedal mod to the SE
Florida RV Builders website at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Controls%20%26%20Control%20Surfaces/Control%20Linkages/
Charlie Kuss
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes again
>
>
>Wheeler,
> Send me the photo of your pedal mod. I'll post it to the SE Florida RV
>Builders website.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV8A fuselage
>Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >
> >Randy,
> >
> >The mod I did will work for an 8. on the bottom of the pedal I put a piece
> >of 3/4" x 1/8" angle running along the bottom edge with one flange facing
>up
> >and attached to the back of the pedal with countersunk screws and the other
> >flange facing forward. I then took a peice of 2" by 1/8" wall 6061 tube and
> >split it lengthwise into two half cylinders. I attached this to the forward
> >facing flange of the 3/4 with an426-4 s in a manner that you don't see the
> >3/4" angle.
> >
> >I'll send a drawing as well, but it will be stripped for the list, maybe
> >someone could put it on a server? Its from memory so the pedals may be
> >differnt but you'll get the idea. Its a cross sectional drawing, left is
>the
> >8, right is the 6 roughly
> >
> >W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: blue mountain avionics |
> I'm waiting to hear from Sam Buchanan on how the EFIS lite works out,
because
> that might be a good investment for me from a safety and utility
perspective
> - I'd like to have a gyro panel, but have not installed gyros simply
because
> of cost, weight, and wear issues associated with acro flying. The EFIS
lite
> still isn't cheap, but it is light and shouldn't suffer acro related gyro
> failure.
Sam, many of us would really appreciate hearing your usual thorough and
informative review of this product. I just re-did my panel and specifically
left a path for me to install the EFIS/lite.
Thanks in advance!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bbbb Green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Using the pre-oiler as a back up can buy you some very valuable time
though. Don't ask me how i know this................
Bruce Green
Eagle 110GM
>
> If you need a pre-oiler to back up oil pump failure, you have a lot
> more
> problems than just oiling.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: blue mountain avionics ( & other solid state display stuff) |
Ron Russell wrote:
>
>
> I am thinking about installing the Blue Mount Avionics EFIS package. Is
> anyone flying with one? It sounds like a great system but is it too good to
> be true?
>
> Ron Russell
> RV6 Finish Kit
>
Greg's stuff is impressive. Some of the other stuff isn't.
At OSH last year, I walked up to one of the iPaq based
units, picked up the sensor box, & slowly inverted it. The
display dutifully followed the sensor, showing inverted
flight. Then, the display slowly righted itself while I
continued to hold the sensor inverted. I'd tell you which
one, but I honestly can't remember which it was.
Managing attitude info without moving parts isn't a trivial
task.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Votage Surge |
Joe,
Sounds like you might have a bad ground between the alternator and the regulator
and it's using the carb heat cable for it's ground.
Dave -6 (taildragger!) So Cal
Planejoel(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a toyota alternator that I run backward. No problem for a couple
> years. However it has always fluctuates anywhere from ten to 14.5 volts. My
> wife and I flew into a pancake breakfast the other day and upon returning she
> said when carb heat is applied the voltage surges (Needle pegs). So I sort of
> laught this off because we all know that this coudn't possibly be. I sneaked
> out later flew around the patch and it did peg momentarily with carb heat
> application. I checked the cable to make sure it wasn't touching other wiring
> etc. no luck. I checked with several other builders and the only thing we
> could come up with is some tail draging RV driver snuck into my hanger and
> danced around the plane with dead chicken in hand.
>
> Joe
> RV6A 0360 CP
>
> P.S. Thinking I was doing a good thing I encouraged the wife to help in the
> building and to get her pilot's license. Is a little female knowledge a good
> thing?????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: blue mountain avionics ( & other solid state display stuff) |
>Greg's stuff is impressive. Some of the other stuff isn't.
>At OSH last year, I walked up to one of the iPaq based
>units, picked up the sensor box, & slowly inverted it. The
>display dutifully followed the sensor, showing inverted
>flight. Then, the display slowly righted itself while I
>continued to hold the sensor inverted. I'd tell you which
>one, but I honestly can't remember which it was.
>
>Managing attitude info without moving parts isn't a trivial
>task.
>
>Charlie
It shows the correct attitude as long as you're not accelerating,
decelerating or in level, steady flight! Even a broken watch is right twice
a day.
Dave Berryhill
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
How have you guys handled distributing power and ground to Van's
instruments? I'm pondering getting a 20 connector strip and just daisy
chaining the connectors together to be able to distribute power to 10
instruments. I don't like the daisy chain idea, but it seems like the risk
of a failure would be reduced if each chain were only 2 inches long rather
than connecting instrument to instrument. Is there a better way?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The engine debate |
This is for people who:
1) want to reopen the auto vs Lycoming engine debate, or
2) have a bit of a sense of humor:
This weekend on Car-Talk (you know, the National Public Radio program) The
guys take a phone call from me regarding the subaru engine in a home built
aircraft. Needless to say, they had a lot of fun with the topic, and were NO
help at all! For some reason, they seemed to be of the impression that those
who build aircraft in their garages are less than normal. Listen in. We
recorded the segment on Wednesday, and they don't guarantee it'll get on
(they "mix and match" the calls to get the best mix of humor and time limit
potential) but they are already asking me for pix to post on their web site.
Ed Winne
RV 9A
Palmyra PA
wings/QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I incorporated 5 of Van's instruments in my panel and used a system similar
to what you are suggesting. I have a terminal strip with jumpers to which
all of the power wires from the guages terminate. A wire from the buss also
terminates there to bring power to the strip. I have another jumpered
terminal strip that has the guage lighting power-wires attached. A wire
from the dimmer attaches to this terminal to control the lighting intensity.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: buss bar
>
> How have you guys handled distributing power and ground to Van's
> instruments? I'm pondering getting a 20 connector strip and just daisy
> chaining the connectors together to be able to distribute power to 10
> instruments. I don't like the daisy chain idea, but it seems like the
risk
> of a failure would be reduced if each chain were only 2 inches long rather
> than connecting instrument to instrument. Is there a better way?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The engine debate |
Maybe you'll make converts out of them. Don't anybody flame me for this,
but I have the distinct impression that the majority of the NPR
>From: Ewinne(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: The engine debate
>Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 05:31:12 EST
>
>
>This is for people who:
>
>1) want to reopen the auto vs Lycoming engine debate, or
>
>2) have a bit of a sense of humor:
>
>This weekend on Car-Talk (you know, the National Public Radio program) The
>guys take a phone call from me regarding the subaru engine in a home built
>aircraft. Needless to say, they had a lot of fun with the topic, and were
>NO
>help at all! For some reason, they seemed to be of the impression that
>those
>who build aircraft in their garages are less than normal. Listen in. We
>recorded the segment on Wednesday, and they don't guarantee it'll get on
>(they "mix and match" the calls to get the best mix of humor and time limit
>potential) but they are already asking me for pix to post on their web
>site.
>
>Ed Winne
>RV 9A
>Palmyra PA
>wings/QB fuse
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: When to install baffles |
--- Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Is it best/easiest to install the engine baffles while the engine in
> on the
> stand or should I wait until it is bolted to the mounts?
Going through this now - almost done though.
You really need to have the engine mounted and the bottom cowl attached
to the fuse to do the baffles.
The reason is that the inlet lip can't be sized until you have the cowl
to reference against.
If you plan to build a plenum you will have to be able to mount the top
cowl as well to verify the plenum does not interfere with the line of
the cowl.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | [Fwd: Engine Trouble Shooting Quick-List (ECI, inc)] |
mailsrv2.mitre.org (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) with ESMTP
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:57:43 -0500
From: pcondon <pcondon(at)vt.edu>
Subject: Engine Trouble Shooting Quick-List (ECI, inc)
Here is a quick list of things to check if you are having problems. (courtsey
ECI,inc.) I am having static RPM problems and I dug this list up. If you don't
need it now....its in the archives from now-on (when & if you ever have engine
related problems)
Table of Contents
Failure of Engine to Start
Low Power and Uneven Running
High Oil Temperature
Excess Oil Consumption
Low Oil Pressure
High Oil Pressure
Improper Engine Acceleration
Failure of Engine to Idle Properly
Failure of Engine to Develop Full Power
Engine Stops
Engine Vibrates Excessively
Engine Continually Throws Alternator Belt
Engine Overheats
High Cylinder Head Temperature
Engine Won=92t Stop When Switch is Turned Off
Carburetor Leaks Fuel
Engine =93Spits Back=94 in Carburetor
Engine Misses Intermittently
Engine Misses Regularly
Scattering Misfire
Single Cylinder Miss at High Speed
Single Cylinder Miss at Low Speed
Causes of Pre-Ignition
Causes of Excessive Carbon Deposit
Magneto Fails to Delivery Any Spark
Crankcase Fills with Oil (Dry-sump System)
Engine Pumps Oil
Faulty Spark
Mixture Analysis by Exhaust Flame
A =93Too-Rich Mixture=94 may be caused by...
A =93Too-Lean Mixture=94 may be caused by...
Failure of Engine to Start (27 points)
1. Lack of fuel
2. Ignition switch off
3. Under-priming or over-priming
4. Incorrect throttle setting
5. Cold oil
6. Defective battery (battery ignition systems)
7. Dirty or defective spark plugs
8. Water in magneto
9. Wet ignition harness
10. Wrong grade of fuel
11. Spark advance retarded too far
12. Vapor in fuel system
13. Water in carburetor
14. Defective ignition wiring
15. Booster magneto defective
16. Incorrect valve and/or ignition timing
17. Defective magneto
18. Broken impulse coupling
19. Magneto breaker points defective
20. Incorrect valve clearance
21. Defective priming system
22. Internal trouble in carburetor
23. Intake manifold air leaks
24. Broken, shredded or defective camshaft
25. Internal engine failure
26. Spark plug wires crossed
27. Miscellaneous (turn engine over slowly by hand with the master & magneto
switch off and note any unusual condition, particularly low compression.
Return to top - Table of Contents
Low Power and Uneven Running (29 points)
1. Mixture too rich or too lean
2. Leaks in induction system
3. Defective or fouled spark plugs and loose plug connections
4. Improper fuel grades
5. Wet or defective ignition wiring
6. Engine overheating
7. Defective magneto breaker points
8. Dirty or broken carbon brushes in magneto
9. Improper valve and/or ignition timing
10. Propeller out of track, or hub nut loose
11. Carburetor heat control malfunction
12. Cracked engine mount or loose mount bolts
13. Foreign matter in induction system or fuel lines
14. Incorrectly adjusted carburetor control linkage
15. Fuel feed valve leaking or not operating properly
16. Warped or burned valves or valve seats
17. Broken valve springs
18. Worn or sticking pistons or cylinders
19. Cracked pistons or cylinders
20. Bent pushrods
21. Cylinder gaskets blown
22. Magneto ground wire loose and grounding
23. Carburetor icing
24. Fluctuating fuel pressure
25. Defective rocker arms or bearings
26. Defective valve guides
27. Bent crankshaft
28. Crosswind on propeller during ground operation
29. Spark plug wires crossed
Return to top - Table of Contents
High Oil Temperature (12 points)
1. Insufficient oil supply
2. Defective oil temperature gauge
3. Airflow through oil cooler blocked
4. Oil cooler bypass valve malfunction
5. Cylinder baffles missing or insecure
6. Poor airflow around oil tank
7. Clogged oil lines or screens
8. Overheated bearings
9. Dirty or improper grade of oil
10. Improper grade of fuel
11. Improper ignition timing
12. Main bearing shifting in crankcase bearing bore
Return to top - Table of Contents
Excess Oil Consumption ( 9 points)
1. Improper grade of oil
2. Improper venting of oil system
3. Piston rings worn, broken or incorrectly installed
4. Breather line exiting in low pressure area and blocked or missing vacuum
break hole on breather line
5. Cracked pistons
6. Defective supercharger seal
7. Piston oil drain holes clogged
8. Oil pressure too high
9. Too much clearance between intake valve and guide
Return to top - Table of Contents
Low Oil Pressure (18 points)
1. Insufficient oil supply
2. Oil pump not primed
3. Improper setting of pressure relief valve
4. Foreign matter in relief valve
5. Defective pressure gauge, or clogged gauge line
6. Improper grade of oil
7. High oil temperature
8. Leak in suction lines
9. Dirt in oil screens
10. Foaming in oil tank
11. Oil congealed in intake line
12. Excessively diluted oil
13. Broken oil line
14. Excessive cam follower to crankcase clearance
15. Excessive bearing clearance or wrong undersize bearings
16. Crankshaft plugs leaking or missing
17. Worn oil pump gears
18. Broken oil pump gears or drive shaft
Return to top - Table of Contents
High Oil Pressure (8 points)
1. Improper grade of oil
2. Pressure relief valve stuck closed or improperly adjusted
3. Oil cold or frozen
4. Oil pipe bent or crushed
5. Defective pressure gauge
6. Insufficient bearing clearance
7. Oil Screen or filter clogged
8. Bearing tight due to engine overheating
Return to top - Table of Contents
Improper Engine Acceleration (11 points)
1. Incorrectly adjusted carburetor
2. Defective accelerating pump
3. Cold oil
4. Defective tachometer
5. Improper propeller pitch or warped propeller
6. Improper throttle or mixture control linkage adjustment
7. Fuel valve leaking or not operating properly
8. Improper spark adjustment
9. Improper engine timing
10. Internal carburetor trouble, or pressure-type carburetor in gravity fuel
system
11. Air leaks or restriction in induction system
Return to top - Table of Contents
Failure of Engine to Idle Properly (20 points)
1. Carburetor control linkage improperly adjusted
2. Loose spark plug connectors
3. Water or oil in magnetos
4. Burned or pitted contact breaker points
5. Improper magneto timing
6. Defective ignition harness
7. Improper grade of fuel
8. Incorrect idling speed adjustment
9. Throttle valve closing too far
10. Idling jet restricted
11. Air leaks in induction system
12. Vapor in fuel system
13. Improper fuel pressure
14. Internal carburetor trouble
15. Partial obstruction in fuel lines
16. Fuel valve leaking or not operating properly
17. Defective primer valve
18. Improper valve clearance
19. Low cylinder compression
20. Excessive play in carburetor control linkage
Return to top - Table of Contents
Failure of Engine to Develop Full Power (29 points)
1. Carburetor control linkage improperly adjusted
2. Mixture too lean or too rich
3. Throttle valve not fully open
4. Improper grade of fuel
5. Air leak in carburetor
6. Incorrect fuel pressure
7. Improper valve clearance
8. Improper grade of oil
9. Oil too hot or too cold
10. Rocker arms not properly lubricated
11. Incorrect valve or ignition timing
12. Defective spark plugs
13. Weak magneto magnets
14. Burned or pitted contact breaker points
15. Excessive carbon and pre-ignition
16. Intake manifold too cold
17. Pressure type carburetor in gravity system
18. Weak or broken valve springs
19. Low cylinder compression
20. Valve seats scored or worn
21. Bent pushrods
22. Excessive back pressure from exhaust manifold
23. Engine stiff or tight
24. Incorrect propeller setting, or warped propeller blades
25. Engine overheating
26. Carburetor venturi too small
27. Carburetor icing
28. Improper grade of fuel
29. Defective supercharger
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Stops (12 points)
1. Magnetos grounded
2. Out of fuel
3. Carburetor jets restricted
4. Air or vapor lock in fuel line
5. Fuel lines partially obstructed
6. Foreign object in induction system
7. Water in fuel
8. Broken fuel lines
9. Sheared timing gears
10. Internal structural failure
11. Propeller contacts solid object
12. Air vent or fuel tank obstructed
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Vibrates Excessively (11 points)
1. Propeller out of balance or out of track
2. Bent crankshaft
3. Unequal valve clearance
4. Defective spark plugs
5. Engine loose on mount
6. Propeller hub nut loose
7. Carburetor icing
8. Incorrect carburetor setting
9. Engine too cold
10. Improper ignition timing
11. Worn dynamic dampner bushings or pins
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Continually Throws Alternator Belt (3 points)
1. Bent pulley
2. Alternator bearings or armature
3. Worn dynamic dampner bushings or pins
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Overheats (15 points)
1. Retarded spark or spark timed late
2. Defective water circulation
3. Defective oil circulation
4. Thin oil
5. Lean Mixture
6. Camshaft out of time
7. Idling engine too long
8. Running air cooled engine on ground too long
9. Insufficient oil cooling
10. Insufficient oil supply
11. Running engine with radiator or cowling shutters closed
12. Excessive carbon
13. Engine improperly cowled
14. Overheated bearing
15. Tight bearings or pistons out of line
Return to top - Table of Contents
High Cylinder Head Temperature (15 points)
February 21, 2002 - February 28, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mk