RV-Archive.digest.vol-ml
February 28, 2002 - March 06, 2002
1. Mixture too lean
2. Improper grade of fuel
3. Air leaks in induction system
4. High carburetor air inlet temperature
5. Magnetos improperly timed
6. Damaged cylinder baffles, fins, or restrictions in airflow
7. Incorrect valve operation or clearance
8. Restrictions in exhaust system
9. Temperature gauge defective
10. Thermocouple wires too close to exhaust manifold
11. Spark retarded
12. Pre-ignition through carbon or defective spark plugs
13. Warped valves
14. Loose valve seats and guides
15. Worn valve guides
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Won=92t Stop When Switch is Turned Off (4 points)
1. Magneto ground wires loose or broken
2. Faulty magneto switch
3. Engine excessively hot
4. Incandescent carbon in cylinders
Return to top - Table of Contents
Carburetor Leaks Fuel (6 points)
1. Leaky or stuck float
2. Excessive fuel supply pressure
3. Poor seating of needle valve
4. Worn float fulcrum pin
5. Improper float level
6. Loose needle valve seat
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine "Spits Back" in Carburetor (13 points)
1. Cold engine or cold mixture
2. Lean mixture
3. Air leaks in manifold
4. Air leaks around intake valve stems
5. Weak valve springs
6. Sticking valves
7. Spark plug wires crossed or incorrectly connected
8. Ignition out of time or retarded
9. Camshaft out of time
10. Overheating
11. Carbon
12. Improper grade of fuel
13. Water in gasoline
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Misses Intermittently (13 points)
1. Incorrect mixture
2. Improper grade of fuel
3. Water in fuel
4. Air leaks in induction system
5. Slow valve action
6. Defective magnetos or ignition harness
7. Distributor points or contact breaker points dirty or pitted
8. Carburetor air heater defective
9. High oil temperature
10. Defective spark plugs
11. Improper timing
12. Carburetor icing
13. Magneto ground wire swinging and periodically grounding
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Misses Regularly (6 points)
1. Fouled spark plug
2. Defective spark plug
3. Broken or grounded spark plug wire
4. Improper valve clearance
5. Low compression on one or more cylinders
6. Damaged magneto distributor head
Return to top - Table of Contents
Scattering Misfire (12 points)
1. Lean mixture
2. Rich mixture
3. Water in gasoline
4. Air leak in intake manifold
5. Intake valve holding open
6. Sticky valve guides
7. Weak valve springs
8. Excessive breaker point clearance
9. Weak breaker arm spring
10. Excessive rotor contact gap clearance
11. Moisture on distributor block
12. Faulty spark
Return to top - Table of Contents
Single Cylinder Miss at High Speed (6 points)
1. Short circuited spark plugs
2. Short circuited spark plug wire
3. Short circuited distributor block
4. Spark plug gap too wide
5. Weak exhaust valve springs
6. Insufficient valve tappet clearance
Return to top - Table of Contents
Single Cylinder Miss at Low Speed (7 points)
1. Short circuited spark plug
2. Short circuited spark plug wire
3. Short circuited distributor block
4. Wrong spark plug gap
5. Weak compression
6. Air leak around intake valve stem
7. Weak exhaust valve spring
Return to top - Table of Contents
Causes of Pre-Ignition (5 points)
1. Carbon
2. Overheating
3. Excessively rich mixture
4. Ignition out of time
5. Spark plug wires crossed or connected to wrong cylinder
Return to top - Table of Contents
Causes of Excessive Carbon Deposit (5 points)
1. Engine flooded with oil
2. Worn piston rings
3. Inferior quality of engine oil
4. Rich mixture
5. Engine operated for long period without cleaning carbon
Return to top - Table of Contents
Magneto Fails to Deliver any Spark (4 points)
1. Primary circuit grounded or open
2. Secondary circuit grounded or open
3. Ground wire or switch grounded
4. Condenser circuit open or shorted, or condenser punctured
Return to top - Table of Contents
Crankcase Fills with Oil (Dry-sump System) (6 points)
1. Scavenger pump has lost its prime
2. Scavenger pump screen stopped up
3. Scavenger suction or pressure lines stopped up
4. Air leak in suction side of scavenger pump
5. Broken scavenger pump drive
6. Scavenger pump badly worn
Return to top - Table of Contents
Engine Pumps Oil (10 points)
1. Piston rings poor fit in piston grooves
2. Piston rings poor fit in cylinder
3. Broken piston rings
4. Scored cylinder walls
5. Excessive piston clearance
6. Excessive oil pressure
7. Thin oil
8. Improper grade of oil
9. Excessive bearing clearance
10. Faulty scavenger pump
Return to top - Table of Contents
Faulty Spark (19 points)
1. Breaker point clearance incorrect
2. Breaker points burned or dirty
3. Collector brush worn out or dirty
4. Distributor brush worn out or dirty
5. Distributor segments/rotor contact corroded or burnt
6. Collector ring short circuited or dirty
7. Distributor rotor short circuited or dirty
8. Incorrect E-gap
9. Primary winding short circuited or dirty
10. Secondary winding short circuited or burned out
11. Condenser short circuited or punctured
12. Magnets weak or crossed
13. Loose or corroded connection within the magneto
14. Ground wire or switch short circuited
15. Moisture within the magneto 16. Armature touches pole pieces
17. Foreign material collected on armature
18. Defective spark plugs
19. Carbon tracks resulting from flashover caused by moisture.
Return to top - Table of Contents
Mixture Analysis by Exhaust Flame (4 points)
1. Rich Mixture: Long deep blue flame with red tip, black smoke.
2. Lean Mixture: Short irregular light blue flame with yellow tip.
3. Proper Mixture: Quick blue flame without yellow tip.
4. Oil pumping is shown by blue exhaust smoke.
Return to top - Table of Contents
A "Too-Rich Mixture" may be caused by: (6 points)
1. High fuel pressure
2. Oil in cylinders
3. Carburetor float valve seating improperly
4. Float leaking air
5. Jet gaskets of improper thickness or out of shape
6. Float level too high (these troubles would be responsible for the
carburetor flooding and a rich mixture, particularly at low speeds)
Return to top - Table of Contents
A "Too-Lean Mixture" may be caused by: (9 points)
1. Insufficient fuel in tank
2. Partially clogged fuel line
3. Insufficient air pressure in pressure fuel tank
4. Air vent on fuel tank clogged
5. Fuel filter or jets clogged
6. Carburetor float level too low
7. Water in carburetor or system
8. Air leaks in induction system
9. Sticking valves
Return to top - Table of Contents
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | The engine debate |
Thanks for the heads-up, Ed. I listen to them every sat am while I am a
building on the airplane. For the paranoid among us, they are safely to the
right of the rest of NPR. It should be fun.
john
rv8 half done.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ewinne(at)aol.com
rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: The engine debate
This is for people who:
1) want to reopen the auto vs Lycoming engine debate, or
2) have a bit of a sense of humor:
This weekend on Car-Talk (you know, the National Public Radio program) The
guys take a phone call from me regarding the subaru engine in a home built
aircraft. Needless to say, they had a lot of fun with the topic, and were NO
help at all! For some reason, they seemed to be of the impression that those
who build aircraft in their garages are less than normal. Listen in. We
recorded the segment on Wednesday, and they don't guarantee it'll get on
(they "mix and match" the calls to get the best mix of humor and time limit
potential) but they are already asking me for pix to post on their web site.
Ed Winne
RV 9A
Palmyra PA
wings/QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: When to Wire Wings |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> now, or just leave the
> top skin off and worry about it much later on.
>
I would suggest you put the top skins on first and bottom skins last. The
last skins on are the hardest, and thats where mistakes can mess up the
finish. No one will see the bottom skins.
Cecil Hatfield
RV6A
writes:
>
> Okay, my wings are drilled, deburred, dimpled, and skins are ready
> to rivet. I intend
> to position lights / strobes in the wing tips.
>
> Can someone describe what they did to get electrical out to the
> tips? I'm looking for
> a fairly detailed description. Did you drill extra holes in the
> ribs or run through one of
> the existing lightening holes? Did you use grommets? Run a piece
> of PVC?
>
> Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> now, or just leave the
> top skin off and worry about it much later on.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: blue mountain avionics |
Randy and Kyle, I am awaiting the arrival of my EFIS/Lite, hopefully
sometime in March. You can rest assured there will be a report as soon
as the unit is installed and flying. :-)
As Kyle stated, the Blue Mtn units are very impressive, and Greg Richter
strikes me as a feller who has all his dogs barking. It is impossible to
walk away from a demo of the units without being convinced that
conventional gyros are experiencing their last days.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
==================
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> > I'm waiting to hear from Sam Buchanan on how the EFIS lite works out,
> because
> > that might be a good investment for me from a safety and utility
> perspective
> > - I'd like to have a gyro panel, but have not installed gyros simply
> because
> > of cost, weight, and wear issues associated with acro flying. The EFIS
> lite
> > still isn't cheap, but it is light and shouldn't suffer acro related gyro
> > failure.
>
> Sam, many of us would really appreciate hearing your usual thorough and
> informative review of this product. I just re-did my panel and specifically
> left a path for me to install the EFIS/lite.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Looking for Louis Smith |
Sorry to take this to the list but is Louis Smith on line - seems his email
address has changed? Lou?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | AVWeb Picture of the Week |
"socal-rvlist"
AVweb's Picture Of The Week...
*** PREVIOUS RESULTS ***
We received over 40 pictures last week. Congratulations to this
week's winner, David Webber, of Lancaster, Calif. David's picture
shows a Van's RV-6 flying off into the sunset after takeoff from
Montgomery Field (MYF), San Diego. The airplane was built and
flown by Gary Sobek. Great picture, David! Your AVweb prize is
on the way.
To check out the winning picture, or to enter next week's contest,
go to <http://www.avweb.com/potw>.
Coratulations David,
Great picture.
Laird
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: ipack and anywhere map |
I am very happy with the system.I live in Fl and the heat has't affected it,
but i do shade the ipaq when airplane is parked.With the new Sentenial gps i
only have one wire going to it which is the external power cable.
They have a good discusion board at
www.anywheremapwx.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: ipack and anywhere map |
YOU can declutter the screen to show what YOU want.--Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: When to Wire Wings |
I enlarged the tooling holes to 5/16 and inserted plastic gromets from
Wick's Aircraft. If I had to do it again I would make the hole a bit larger
(room for wing tip landings lights + nav lights), say 1/2 and then insert
plastic grommets.
Steve
RV-7A
>From: cecilth(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: When to Wire Wings
>Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 06:44:48 -0800
>
>
> Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> > now, or just leave the
> > top skin off and worry about it much later on.
> >
>
>I would suggest you put the top skins on first and bottom skins last. The
>last skins on are the hardest, and thats where mistakes can mess up the
>finish. No one will see the bottom skins.
>Cecil Hatfield
>RV6A
>
>
>writes:
> >
> > Okay, my wings are drilled, deburred, dimpled, and skins are ready
> > to rivet. I intend
> > to position lights / strobes in the wing tips.
> >
> > Can someone describe what they did to get electrical out to the
> > tips? I'm looking for
> > a fairly detailed description. Did you drill extra holes in the
> > ribs or run through one of
> > the existing lightening holes? Did you use grommets? Run a piece
> > of PVC?
> >
> > Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> > now, or just leave the
> > top skin off and worry about it much later on.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > -Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > messages.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: ipack and anywhere map |
I called Control Vision the other day and asked them about the difference
between the 3700 and the 3800 series ipaqs. They thought that the 3800 has
a better interface on the bottom and would reduce some of the
plug-coming-loose problems that the 3700 has. Is anyone using the Anywhere
Map with a 3800 series ipaq that can confirm this?
Dave Berryhill
>
>I am very happy with the system.I live in Fl and the heat has't affected
>it,
>but i do shade the ipaq when airplane is parked.With the new Sentenial gps
>i
>only have one wire going to it which is the external power cable.
> They have a good discusion board at
>www.anywheremapwx.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
> Ollie&Lorene Washburn
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: When to Wire Wings |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> now, or just leave the
> top skin off and worry about it much later on.
>
I would suggest you put the top skins on first and bottom skins last. The
last skins on are the hardest, and thats where mistakes can mess up the
finish. No one will see the bottom skins.
Cecil Hatfield
RV6A
writes:
>
> Okay, my wings are drilled, deburred, dimpled, and skins are ready
> to rivet. I intend
> to position lights / strobes in the wing tips.
>
> Can someone describe what they did to get electrical out to the
> tips? I'm looking for
> a fairly detailed description. Did you drill extra holes in the
> ribs or run through one of
> the existing lightening holes? Did you use grommets? Run a piece
> of PVC?
>
> Basically I really just need to know if I should worry about this
> now, or just leave the
> top skin off and worry about it much later on.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | Brakes - another perspective, heel stirrups |
Since everyone else has offered their opinion, I feel obligated to offer
mine. Most of my time in the Air Force was is F-4's, 68 to 72. I put
heel stirrups on my 6 because I liked them in the F-4. Pulling G's, dog
fighting, landing, taxing, whatever, your feet were always in the right
position on the pedals. You did NOT want to land with any brakes on!!!!
Because your feet position was fixed with the stirrup, you were not
figiting or pushing against the pedals to keep them from slipping off
and getting out of position. Relaxed feet mean no inadvertant brake
application. Never had a problem in the F-4, never had a problem in my
6. I can send a picture to a website if someone is interested.
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Another Brake Question |
When I installed one of Van's parking brake valves low on the firewall (-6)
right in front of the left side rudder/brake pedals, I had a problem in that
the inlet holes in the valve are too close together to install 90 degree AN
fittings (at least I couldn't figure out how to get them in). Without the
ANs I could not use the high pressure hoses that Van's supplies. I called
Van's and one of the guys, I think it was Gus, suggested that I use the high
pressure plastic tubing and brass elbow fittings that they supply for use on
the right side. He referenced years of success with this solution on the
early RV-4s. Now I am seeing references to leaking plastic lines and
problems with the early -4s in this area and it sounds like I'd better figure
out a better way. Can any of you guys who have used Van's parking brake
valve tell me how you were able to connect it (mine is in a location that
requires elbow fittings for clearance from the rudder pedals)? Also, does
anybody know if their really was a frequent problem on the early -4s with the
plastic/brass fittings?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the reservoir and master
cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about leaks. Another
local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've been thinking about possible
options to fix it, and the recent RVator article came to mind...about flaring
the plastic tubes for pitot/static connections to the instruments. Why
wouldn't this work for the brake system too? I'm thinking this might be the way
to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw into the reservoir, put a couple right
angle AN fittings on the master cylinders, flare each end of the plastic lines
and install using the regular aluminum AN hardware just like the aluminum
fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone see a reason why this wouldn't work? Seems
like you'd retain the advantage of light weight / low cost that the plastic
tube offers, and being able to see the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but
hopefully create a much more robust attachment t!
hat should never leak.
Since you all are such an opinionated bunch, I'd like to hear what you think about
doing it this way : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Another Brake Question |
Harry,
You can see how I dealt with this here:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/brake_valve.html
Even with the fittings shown, I had to grind a few thousandths off one of
the fittings to be able to install it.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
engine baffles
-----Original Message-----
When I installed one of Van's parking brake valves low on the firewall (-6)
right in front of the left side rudder/brake pedals, I had a problem in that
the inlet holes in the valve are too close together to install 90 degree AN
fittings (at least I couldn't figure out how to get them in).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | 6A tilting slider mod |
Hey guys.
Anyone know anything about the 6A with the "tilting slider" canopy mod, shown
in these photos?
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt.html
It looks like the builder has modified the front wheel assemblies to tilt at
that angle, then also must have notched the rear track to allow it to release,
& finally added a support to hold it tipped up. This would certainly make
baggage loading a whole lot easier. In particular, the folding bikes we use
are a bit of a struggle to load & unload, but they would be no problem with the
canopy tipped!
I'd like to locate the builder, or at least find some further details.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 328 hrs
====
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 250 hrs
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> When I installed one of Van's parking brake valves low on the firewall (-6)
> right in front of the left side rudder/brake pedals, I had a problem in that
> the inlet holes in the valve are too close together to install 90 degree AN
> fittings (at least I couldn't figure out how to get them in). Without the
> ANs I could not use the high pressure hoses that Van's supplies.
45 degree fittings work well for this application and allow the van's
supplied black hose assembly to be attached directly to the parking
brake valve.
> Also, does
> anybody know if their really was a frequent problem on the early -4s with the
> plastic/brass fittings?
As I recall some of the early 4's used the plastic line all the way to
the calipers. Lines would melt, fluid would catch fire.... Needless to
say not a good design.
I use the plastic lines as supplied by van for the pax side brakes and
have no leaks or any other problems but then I have only been flying for
300 hrs and two years. The pax brakes get used quite a bit as myself and
my wife's instructor both fly from the right seat.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
> Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the reservoir
and master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about
leaks. Another local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've been
thinking about possible options to fix it, and the recent RVator article
came to mind...about flaring the plastic tubes for pitot/static connections
to the instruments. Why wouldn't this work for the brake system too? I'm
thinking this might be the way to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw into
the reservoir, put a couple right angle AN fittings on the master cylinders,
flare each end of the plastic lines and install using the regular aluminum
AN hardware just like the aluminum fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone see a
reason why this wouldn't work? Seems like you'd retain the advantage of
light weight / low cost that the plastic tube offers, and being able to see
the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but hopefully create a much
more robust attachment!
> --Mark Navratil
Mark: My attempts to flare plastic tubing have come to grief when the
flared portion of the tubing creeps out from under the tapered portion of
the nut. My -4 has all plastic lines and I replaced the high pressure lines
last year because there had been some chafing with the wheel fairing. They
all use brass compression fittings. On the reservoir side I had a plastic
tee with plastic compression elements on the running portion of the tee.
The threaded portion of the tee in the reservoir tended to seep. This was
replaced with a brass tee and the 1/8 taper pipe thread does not leak.
However, one side of the tee/compression nut did leak and what I found was
that the compression sleeve had been pushed on a bit too far from the end of
the tube upon assembly and the ferrule was prevented from seating in the
fitting. The combination of the insert thimble and the tube itself was
sufficiently strong to keep the thing from seating. None of the rest of the
system has leaked and I have had no trouble at all at the wheels. I do tend
not to overheat the brakes however.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | mount garmin 195 in rv4 |
From: | "Glenn Bridges" <robwil(at)nlamerica.com> |
AN RV 4 STOPPED AT ST SIMONS ISLAND ENROUTE TO THE KEYS RECENTLY. HE HAD
MOUNTED HIS GARMIN 195 TO THE RIGHT FRONT CANOPY FRAME, BY CUTTING AND
ADAPTING THE GARMIN MOUNT SO ;IT COULD BE BOLTED THROUGH THE FRAME. I FAILED
TO SKETCH THE CUT OFF LOCATION ON THE MOUNT. I BELIEVE THE RV4 WAS FROM NEW
HAMPSHIRE. IF ANY ONE KNOWS THE PLANE AND HOW I COULD GET IN TOUCH, PLEASE
PUT IT ON THE LIST
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | Masking tape on Canopy |
OK, my turn for some advice...
Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
because it will scratch the acrylic.
So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake... what
solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
ruining the acrylic?
Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
leave it there for any length of time.
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
hey jim
i had a similar problem, what i did was to apply a fresh piece of duct tape,
(much better grip than masking tape ) over the masking tape and use a heat
gun to remove it. don't get the canopy too hot ! just enough so the duct tape
will pull the masking tape off.
good luck, if you wait till sat, i'll bring my heat gun over and a roll of
duct tape.
and by all means please stay out from under fast moving automobiles ;-)
that leaves you with what ? 8 lives left?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Tilt Canopy - Cabin Frame |
David, I wrote some instructions for tilt canopy 'bout a hundred years
ago so they are probably of no value now. You might look at them
anyway...I think they are still at <http://www.flash.net/~gila>
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A tilt canopy
David Roseblade wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am about to begin building the cabin frame, and need some assistance.
>
> The manual says that these parts are very close to design dimensions. By
> laying the F-631's on a table with the nominal dimensions of 42 1/8" wide
> and 17 7/8" high I find a gap of approx 1/4" between the two halves at the
> top - is this normal ? if so has anyone filled the front gap with a small
> bonded strip.
>
> The sides are a little bit wavy, it is necessary to adjust these to
> perfection or is a little waviness acceptable. Unfortunately I do not have
> access to any aircraft to look at to see what others have done.
>
> I intend on using screws to hold the canopy in place, has anyone any
> experience in this, ie is it OK to put a thread in the frame or insert
> rivnuts or similar?
>
> I would appreciate any help/hints and tips in this area.
>
> Regards
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6 Fuselage,
> Dubai, UAE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Subject: | Brake Pedals for Tall Pilots |
Posted for Billy Wilson
I think for tall, long-legged guys, the brake pedals should be
tilted forward relative to the rudder pedals. The reason tilting the
pedals
might be a good idea for a tall person is that our legs are bent too
much
when sitting. When I sit in mine, my knees are bent, my heels are on
the
floor, and my feet are inclined at about a 15 degree angle forward of
vertical. Shorter legged pilots' feet would be more vertical.
Everybody
would need to set them to their own leg/foot geometry, sitting in the
plane
with as much seat and brake hardware in place as possible. This is
more
work than putting a spacer on the rudder pedal, but it retains some leg
room.
Also, when I positioned my pedal assembly, I allowed too much
room
for brake pedal/rudder pedal motion. The rudder pedal travel can be
accounted for via the plans, but I didn't know how far the brake pedals
would move since they were not filled with fluid at the time. Since
then,
I find that if the brakes are properly bled, the brake pedal motion is
practically nothing.
Billy Wilson
Senior Engineering Specialist
Lockheed Martin Missiles and Fire Control - Dallas
Work: 972-603-9719
> Fax: 972-603-9275
> email: billy.wilson(at)lmco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Hodges Volatility Tester |
Listers,
I've recently started testing autogas in my RV-6A, and I wanted to
order the Hodges Volatility Tester that Petersen Aviation sells for
testing autogas. Unfortunately, Mr Petersen says he can't get the
syringes for his tester, and is not producting any testers now.
So, I'm interested in cobbling together something myself for now. Can
any of you who already owns a Hodges tester tell me the vacuume
readings that correspond to the "safe" zone? From a photo I have, it
appears that the safe zone is 5.5 psi or more of vacuume, but I can't be
sure.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
I would think an ordinary hair dryer would be better so one doesn't over
heat the canopy and distort it. 300 degrees can come very quick and it has
happened to even the best like Lyle Hefel.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
hey jim
i had a similar problem, what i did was to apply a fresh piece of duct
tape,
(much better grip than masking tape ) over the masking tape and use a heat
gun to remove it. don't get the canopy too hot ! just enough so the duct
tape
will pull the masking tape off.
good luck, if you wait till sat, i'll bring my heat gun over and a roll of
duct tape.
and by all means please stay out from under fast moving automobiles ;-)
that leaves you with what ? 8 lives left?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
In a message dated 2/28/02 5:59:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com writes:
<< OK, my turn for some advice...
Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
because it will scratch the acrylic.
So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake... what
solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
ruining the acrylic?
Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
leave it there for any length of time.
jim
Tampa >>
Jim,
I used a citrus oil based cleaner to solve this exact problem. I don't
remember the name of the cleaner (goof-off? Goo-gone?), but it worked well.
I found it at Home Depot or Lowe's. Make sure and get the citrus based
product. There is a product with a similar name which is petrochemical
based. Using that would be bad...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | AOA PROPRIETARY SYSTEMS |
From: | "Glenn Bridges" <robwil(at)nlamerica.com> |
I BOUGHT AND INSTALLED JIM FRANTZ'S PROPRIETARY SYSTEMS ANGLE OF ATTACK
SYSTEM WITH THE PORTS INSTALLED PROPERLY IN THE OUTER WING AREA AND
DISCUSSED THE CALIBRATION WITH HIM ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. I GUESS I'M TOO
OLD TO FOOL WITH COMPUTERS, CALIBRATIONS, ETC. I PLAN TO JUST LISTEN TO THE
WIND IN THE WIRES AND TRY TO KEEP FROM STALLING. DOES ANYONE WANT THE CPU
UNIT. I CAN'T GET TO THE PORTS. THEY CAN BE ORDERED FROM JIM. WILL ACCEPT
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
the original formula goof off is not got for plexi , in fact i'm reading a
can of it right now and it warns against using on plexi and plastic and
recommends to use their citus type goof off 2.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
I had a leak on one of the compression fittings on the brake actuator.
Retightening it a couple of times to the proper torque with my finely tuned
sense of feel didn't cure it. With nothing left to loose, I tightened until
it stopped leaking. It took much more torque than I was comfortable
applying but it did stop leaking.
Gaylen Lerohl
Alexandria, MN
RV8 - Installing Mazda Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
> Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the reservoir
and master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about
leaks.
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm about to order my finish kit for an RV7A (slider).
Already checked the archives, but does anyone have any additional thoughts to
share regarding tinted vs clear canopy? Does tint impair visibility? Is
there a big difference in cockpit temps? Does it look significantly cooler?
My machine will get some (not a lot) of night use. I live in the Northeast
where we get quite a few hazy days.
John McDonnell (RV7A - All important choices made, looking for $$$ to
implement same)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
> Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
> plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
> nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
> very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
> completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
> Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
> because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
> So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake...
what
> solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
> this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
> ruining the acrylic?
>
> Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
> leave it there for any length of time.
>
> jim
> Tampa
Jim,
Been there, done that, it's the pits. I can't remember the name, but one of
those citrus cleaners took it right off with no damage to the canopy.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, Vancouver, WA
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
I understand that soaking in paint thinner (mineral spirits, not lacquer
thinner) softens dried masking tape. Don't know what it would do to your
canopy, though.
Richard Scott
At 02:54 PM 2/28/02, you wrote:
>
>OK, my turn for some advice...
>
>Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
>plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
>nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
>very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
>completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
>Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
>because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
>So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake... what
>solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
>this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
>ruining the acrylic?
>
>Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
>leave it there for any length of time.
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Guys,
Actually one doesn't have much adjustment at the upper longeron without also
changing rudder cable link length.The pivot for the two pedal assembly tubes
must be about roughly 1.25 inches apart. So if the pedals don't strike an
isosceles triangle straight down then they will pivot kinda strange from
right foot to left foot. There is some room for adjustment here, but not
much.
I personally much prefer the way my pedals are now that I've gotten used to
it, and the mod is very easy to install after its flying as its not a
redesign, but really an add-on. So no matter how/when one does it. Certainly
during taxi tests you should confirm that the aircraft can be safely
operated through ground/air transition. The large hose on the lower tube
would work just as well for the 6's with the overhead pedals.
I will add that I originally found this problem on the 8 and didn't think it
was happening to my 6 until I did a real soft cross wind wheel landing and
realized that one wheel was chirping a lot more than it shoulda been on
touch down. When the pedal was extended my toes were putting on brake, and
it was hard to avoid while trying to control all the levers and knobs and
switches and whistles and bells and crap in my cockpit. ;{)
W
<<<<<<<<<<
I guess someone has to stick up for Van's design. I installed my brakes per
the
plans, with the plastic tubing from the reservoir and from the right side
pedals to the left (high pressure tubing). Since I started flying my Six I
have
never had a lick of trouble of any kind with the brakes - no leaks - no
inadvertent application. The geometry of the pedals is exactly per the plans
but remember that you can adjust the angle of the brake pedal by changing
the
mounting position of the pivot blocks on the longeron. This does NOT change
the
distance of the rudder pedals from the seat - the only way you can do that
is
to change the length of the cables or the links.
If you haven't flown yet, don't redesign the brakes - spend your time
finishing
the airplane. If you have a problem later, which is very unlikely, deal with
it
then.
Dave -6 So Cal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
Get a rubber razor blade from an auto body supply store. It is a tool made
for removing stickers and such without scratching glass or window tint.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
>
> OK, my turn for some advice...
>
> Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
> plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
> nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
> very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
> completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
> Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
> because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
> So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake...
what
> solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
> this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
> ruining the acrylic?
>
> Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
> leave it there for any length of time.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
For the brakes (and everything else) I have used steel braided hose. If you
were only using it for the brakes, it won't cost you that much. Maybe $50
or so in fittings and hose. 70 hours on mine and no leaks. It is a much
more secure material in my opinion. I started putting in the plastic and
after about 5 minutes threw it in the trash and bought the steel stuff.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
>
> >
> > Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the reservoir
> and master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about
> leaks. Another local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've been
> thinking about possible options to fix it, and the recent RVator article
> came to mind...about flaring the plastic tubes for pitot/static
connections
> to the instruments. Why wouldn't this work for the brake system too? I'm
> thinking this might be the way to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw into
> the reservoir, put a couple right angle AN fittings on the master
cylinders,
> flare each end of the plastic lines and install using the regular aluminum
> AN hardware just like the aluminum fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone see
a
> reason why this wouldn't work? Seems like you'd retain the advantage of
> light weight / low cost that the plastic tube offers, and being able to
see
> the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but hopefully create a much
> more robust attachment!
> > --Mark Navratil
>
> Mark: My attempts to flare plastic tubing have come to grief when the
> flared portion of the tubing creeps out from under the tapered portion of
> the nut. My -4 has all plastic lines and I replaced the high pressure
lines
> last year because there had been some chafing with the wheel fairing.
They
> all use brass compression fittings. On the reservoir side I had a plastic
> tee with plastic compression elements on the running portion of the tee.
> The threaded portion of the tee in the reservoir tended to seep. This was
> replaced with a brass tee and the 1/8 taper pipe thread does not leak.
> However, one side of the tee/compression nut did leak and what I found was
> that the compression sleeve had been pushed on a bit too far from the end
of
> the tube upon assembly and the ferrule was prevented from seating in the
> fitting. The combination of the insert thimble and the tube itself was
> sufficiently strong to keep the thing from seating. None of the rest of
the
> system has leaked and I have had no trouble at all at the wheels. I do
tend
> not to overheat the brakes however.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: When to install baffles |
You need to have the cowl done before the baffles, to get the curvature of
the baffles to match the cowl. So, you need to have the engine on to do the
cowl. Therefore, you need to wait to do the baffles when you have the
engine on. Trust me, waiting is just fine for doing the baffles, as they
are a major pain.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: When to install baffles
>
> Is it best/easiest to install the engine baffles while the engine in on
the
> stand or should I wait until it is bolted to the mounts?
>
> So many questions.....so little time....
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9
> Seattle,WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
Subject: | Masking tape on canopy |
A friend of mine who retired from Amaco oil company recommended I try
charcoal lighter fluid to remove masking tape residue from plexi. I tried
it and it works great.
Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
Jim,
Use Goo Gone. It is a citrus based solvent which works extremely well and
is harmless to plastics. I've used it on numerous pieces of clear plastic
and Plexiglass. It's competitor Goof Off is really bad news on Plexiglass.
However, Goof Off has now come out with a new product which is also citrus
based. The original (bad) Goof Off comes in a metal can and smells like
lighter fluid. The new (good) Goof Off comes in an orange plastic bottle
with a pump spray top. My advice is to use the Goo Gone. It works the
fastest. You can find it at K Mart in the housewares area, next to the
floor wax. Home Depot carries it as well. You will find it there in the
paint section, next to the aerosol spray paints. Soak the tape with Goo
Gone for 5 minutes and the tape will lift right off. I've removed 4 year
old tape with it before. Really easy and no danger of damage. I've posted
on this product before. It's in the achieves.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>OK, my turn for some advice...
>
>Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
>plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
>nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
>very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
>completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
>Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
>because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
>So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake... what
>solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
>this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
>ruining the acrylic?
>
>Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
>leave it there for any length of time.
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
You are going to think I'm crazy but you might try this. In the restaurant
business it's not uncommon for people to post things on stainless with
scotch tape or other types of tape for long periods of time. The way we get
the stuff off without scraping the stainless is with ...... get this
Mayonnaise. That's right, mayonnaise. Take a glob and smear it on the area
and let it set for a few (5) minutes then rub it off. You may have to
repeat this step once or twice.
I figure if I can eat the stuff it should be safe for acrylic but there are
no guarantees.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
>
> hey jim
> i had a similar problem, what i did was to apply a fresh piece of duct
tape,
> (much better grip than masking tape ) over the masking tape and use a heat
> gun to remove it. don't get the canopy too hot ! just enough so the duct
tape
> will pull the masking tape off.
> good luck, if you wait till sat, i'll bring my heat gun over and a roll of
> duct tape.
>
> and by all means please stay out from under fast moving automobiles ;-)
> that leaves you with what ? 8 lives left?
>
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
Paul,
Where did you get your braided hose? Same stuff as can be purchased from
Summit or Earls?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
> For the brakes (and everything else) I have used steel braided hose. If
you
> were only using it for the brakes, it won't cost you that much. Maybe $50
> or so in fittings and hose. 70 hours on mine and no leaks. It is a much
> more secure material in my opinion. I started putting in the plastic and
> after about 5 minutes threw it in the trash and bought the steel stuff.
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the
reservoir
> > and master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about
> > leaks. Another local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've been
> > thinking about possible options to fix it, and the recent RVator article
> > came to mind...about flaring the plastic tubes for pitot/static
> connections
> > to the instruments. Why wouldn't this work for the brake system too?
I'm
> > thinking this might be the way to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw
into
> > the reservoir, put a couple right angle AN fittings on the master
> cylinders,
> > flare each end of the plastic lines and install using the regular
aluminum
> > AN hardware just like the aluminum fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone
see
> a
> > reason why this wouldn't work? Seems like you'd retain the advantage of
> > light weight / low cost that the plastic tube offers, and being able to
> see
> > the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but hopefully create a much
> > more robust attachment!
> > > --Mark Navratil
> >
> > Mark: My attempts to flare plastic tubing have come to grief when the
> > flared portion of the tubing creeps out from under the tapered portion
of
> > the nut. My -4 has all plastic lines and I replaced the high pressure
> lines
> > last year because there had been some chafing with the wheel fairing.
> They
> > all use brass compression fittings. On the reservoir side I had a
plastic
> > tee with plastic compression elements on the running portion of the tee.
> > The threaded portion of the tee in the reservoir tended to seep. This
was
> > replaced with a brass tee and the 1/8 taper pipe thread does not leak.
> > However, one side of the tee/compression nut did leak and what I found
was
> > that the compression sleeve had been pushed on a bit too far from the
end
> of
> > the tube upon assembly and the ferrule was prevented from seating in the
> > fitting. The combination of the insert thimble and the tube itself was
> > sufficiently strong to keep the thing from seating. None of the rest of
> the
> > system has leaked and I have had no trouble at all at the wheels. I do
> tend
> > not to overheat the brakes however.
> >
> > Gordon Comfort
> > N363GC
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David White" <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6A tilting slider mod |
Chris: The designer is Rich Meske. I know Rich has plans that he'll send
you for about $25.00. I'll forward your e-mail to him.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: 6A tilting slider mod
>
> Hey guys.
>
> Anyone know anything about the 6A with the "tilting slider" canopy mod,
shown
> in these photos?
>
> http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt.html
>
> It looks like the builder has modified the front wheel assemblies to tilt
at
> that angle, then also must have notched the rear track to allow it to
release,
> & finally added a support to hold it tipped up. This would certainly make
> baggage loading a whole lot easier. In particular, the folding bikes we
use
> are a bit of a struggle to load & unload, but they would be no problem
with the
> canopy tipped!
>
> I'd like to locate the builder, or at least find some further details.
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A N86CG, 328 hrs
>
>
> ====
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A N86CG, 250 hrs
>
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | AOA PROPRIETARY SYSTEMS |
I'm interested. Is it the sport of the pro model? How much do you
want?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Bridges
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 6:57 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: AOA PROPRIETARY SYSTEMS
>
>
>
> I BOUGHT AND INSTALLED JIM FRANTZ'S PROPRIETARY SYSTEMS ANGLE
> OF ATTACK SYSTEM WITH THE PORTS INSTALLED PROPERLY IN THE
> OUTER WING AREA AND DISCUSSED THE CALIBRATION WITH HIM ON
> NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. I GUESS I'M TOO OLD TO FOOL WITH
> COMPUTERS, CALIBRATIONS, ETC. I PLAN TO JUST LISTEN TO THE
> WIND IN THE WIRES AND TRY TO KEEP FROM STALLING. DOES ANYONE
> WANT THE CPU UNIT. I CAN'T GET TO THE PORTS. THEY CAN BE
> 478-275-0200
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
Thanks Mike, I'm going to use your mayonnaise idea on two "NO STEP" signs
printed on masking tape and put on the flaps. An old boot camp trick worked
well on the well worn plumbing "chrome" fixtures. A-1 Steak Sauce. Couldn't
use Brasso etc so we had due. A-1 worked great and polished the "brass" to a
bright and lasting shine. (OK, I was in boot camp at Lackland in '57 and
they were build pre-WWII). Hey Gummi we just may be able to get that stuff
off. HA, HA, 8
) (Guess who put that stuff on in the first place)
KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
> You are going to think I'm crazy but you might try this> Mayonnaise.
That's right, mayonnaise. Take a glob and smear it on the area
> and let it set for a few (5) minutes then rub it off. You may have to
> repeat this step once or twice.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net> |
Subject: | Riveting root rib |
Listers,
I am finishing the left wing of my -8 and am riveting the root rib in
place. The rivet holes in the bottom skins are spaced further apart and I
think that on the -6 these holes are used to attach the wing root fairings.
The plans, however, call out a 3-3.5 rivet. Do I rivet these holes?
John Ciolino
RV-8
Left wing damn near done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
Jim,
Use WD-40 to remove the tape and glue residue. Lay a paper towel over the
tape and soak with WD-40. Let sit awhile and wipe off. WD-40 doesn't hurt
Plexi.
JBC
>
>OK, my turn for some advice...
>
>Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
>plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
>nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
>very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
>completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
>Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
>because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
>So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake... what
>solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
>this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
>ruining the acrylic?
>
>Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
>leave it there for any length of time.
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Pohl" <planewiz(at)hotmail.com> |
John:
The way I look at is:
My cars all have tinted glass. Would I want a car without tinted glass?
Hope this helps.
DP
>From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Canopy Tint
>Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:15:28 EST
>
>
>I'm about to order my finish kit for an RV7A (slider).
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
Mark,
There is a simple fix. Go to the hardware store and buy the brass inserts
that fit the 1/4" plastic tubing. Use these in place of the plastic tubing
inserts, but keep the same brass compression fittings. You end up with the
plastic tube compressed between the two brass components. When I first
tried the plastic inserts they failed to hold their shape.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (moving to the airport Saturday)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the reservoir and
master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread about leaks.
Another local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've been thinking
about possible options to fix it, and the recent RVator article came to
mind...about flaring the plastic tubes for pitot/static connections to the
instruments. Why wouldn't this work for the brake system too? I'm thinking
this might be the way to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw into the
reservoir, put a couple right angle AN fittings on the master cylinders,
flare each end of the plastic lines and install using the regular aluminum
AN hardware just like the aluminum fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone see a
reason why this wouldn't work? Seems like you'd retain the advantage of
light weight / low cost that the plastic tube offers, and being able to see
the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but hopefully create a much
more robust attachment!
t!
hat should never leak.
Since you all are such an opinionated bunch, I'd like to hear what you think
about doing it this way : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fix for plastic brake line leaks?? |
Yep. Same stuff. Many builders have purchased from W.M Engineering. He
is a distributor of Earl's fittings and hoses, and sells at jobber prices.
I recommend getting a catalog so you know what to order. There is a fitting
for just about everything.
Here is his website. He has sold to many RV builders in the past.
http://www.coredcs.com/~wmeng/
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
> Paul,
>
> Where did you get your braided hose? Same stuff as can be purchased from
> Summit or Earls?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok-6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
>
>
> >
> > For the brakes (and everything else) I have used steel braided hose. If
> you
> > were only using it for the brakes, it won't cost you that much. Maybe
$50
> > or so in fittings and hose. 70 hours on mine and no leaks. It is a
much
> > more secure material in my opinion. I started putting in the plastic
and
> > after about 5 minutes threw it in the trash and bought the steel stuff.
> >
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > First Flight 22 July 01
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Subject: RV-List: Fix for plastic brake line leaks??
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Guys, I'm about to install the plastic brake lines between the
> reservoir
> > > and master cylinders in my -8A, and have been watching the thread
about
> > > leaks. Another local -8 builder had leaks in his system too. I've
been
> > > thinking about possible options to fix it, and the recent RVator
article
> > > came to mind...about flaring the plastic tubes for pitot/static
> > connections
> > > to the instruments. Why wouldn't this work for the brake system too?
> I'm
> > > thinking this might be the way to go...get an AN Tee fitting to screw
> into
> > > the reservoir, put a couple right angle AN fittings on the master
> > cylinders,
> > > flare each end of the plastic lines and install using the regular
> aluminum
> > > AN hardware just like the aluminum fuel vents and brake lines. Anyone
> see
> > a
> > > reason why this wouldn't work? Seems like you'd retain the advantage
of
> > > light weight / low cost that the plastic tube offers, and being able
to
> > see
> > > the fluid/bubbles when bleeding the system...but hopefully create a
much
> > > more robust attachment!
> > > > --Mark Navratil
> > >
> > > Mark: My attempts to flare plastic tubing have come to grief when the
> > > flared portion of the tubing creeps out from under the tapered portion
> of
> > > the nut. My -4 has all plastic lines and I replaced the high pressure
> > lines
> > > last year because there had been some chafing with the wheel fairing.
> > They
> > > all use brass compression fittings. On the reservoir side I had a
> plastic
> > > tee with plastic compression elements on the running portion of the
tee.
> > > The threaded portion of the tee in the reservoir tended to seep. This
> was
> > > replaced with a brass tee and the 1/8 taper pipe thread does not leak.
> > > However, one side of the tee/compression nut did leak and what I found
> was
> > > that the compression sleeve had been pushed on a bit too far from the
> end
> > of
> > > the tube upon assembly and the ferrule was prevented from seating in
the
> > > fitting. The combination of the insert thimble and the tube itself
was
> > > sufficiently strong to keep the thing from seating. None of the rest
of
> > the
> > > system has leaked and I have had no trouble at all at the wheels. I
do
> > tend
> > > not to overheat the brakes however.
> > >
> > > Gordon Comfort
> > > N363GC
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Subject: | Mounting F604 in jig |
Fellow Listers:
I am trying to get my F604 bulkhead mounted in my jig (thanks Dave W.
The jig is working great) and I am stumped regarding the angle forward
that it makes in the jig. Is it necessary to trim the F604 side pieces
( those that sit on the edge of the longerons) to compensate for this
forward angle?? When I get the top of the F604 positioned 29 15/16 from
the firewall and then angle the bulkhead forward so the bottom is 29
1/2 inches from the firewall, it creates quite a gap in the middle of
the F604 side pieces where it is resting on the longerons. Seems to me
that I would need to trim the top of the F604 sidepieces so they sit
flush and even on the longeron. Haven't seen any reference to this in
any instructions or the List archives, other than getting the bulkhead
at the proper height from the jig crossmember.
Thanks in advance folks. I sure feels good building this RV again after
a long hiatus while building a house. Life is good again!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: When to install baffles |
Concur with Mike T's remarks. It's quite easy to work on the engine when it
is on the dynafocal on the aircraft. Lots of room at the back to do the aft
baffle segments.
My sequence on a -6A:
1. Mount lower cowl, incl. rivet back and bottom hinge segments
2. Fit back and side baffles.
3. Fit the front baffles and inlet floors - the lower cowl will be on and on
quite a few times to fit the bottom cowl air inlets to the inlet floors
4. Rivet the Front and forward side baffles
5. Plan the oil cooler mounting (aft left baffle on my setup), do cutout,
etc.
6. Rivet remaining baffles but leaving top 1-2" inches of vertical rivet
lines undrilled.
7. Trim (in small steps) the front, side, and aft baffles to meet the cowl
top.
8. When happy get top cowl settled in place and drill side and top hinge
segments.
9. Drill the inner air inlet join.
10. Finish riveting the baffles.
11. Glue & rivet the remaining hinge segments.
12. Fabric seal cut, fit, & rivet.
I'm currently somewhere between 11 & 12 myself.
Jim Oke
CYWG
RV-3
RV-6A
---- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: When to install baffles
>
> --- Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Is it best/easiest to install the engine baffles while the engine in
> > on the
> > stand or should I wait until it is bolted to the mounts?
>
>
> Going through this now - almost done though.
> You really need to have the engine mounted and the bottom cowl attached
> to the fuse to do the baffles.
>
> The reason is that the inlet lip can't be sized until you have the cowl
> to reference against.
>
> If you plan to build a plenum you will have to be able to mount the top
> cowl as well to verify the plenum does not interfere with the line of
> the cowl.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Subject: | Masking tape on Canopy |
Yea, Lakeland was fun. I went through there in '64. We had it real plush.
For some reason we spent our entire time in the old WAC barracks, 4 to a
room, seperate showers, real plush. You officers must have had it real nice.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Starn
Subject: Re: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
Thanks Mike, I'm going to use your mayonnaise idea on two "NO STEP" signs
printed on masking tape and put on the flaps. An old boot camp trick worked
well on the well worn plumbing "chrome" fixtures. A-1 Steak Sauce. Couldn't
use Brasso etc so we had due. A-1 worked great and polished the "brass" to a
bright and lasting shine. (OK, I was in boot camp at Lackland in '57 and
they were build pre-WWII). Hey Gummi we just may be able to get that stuff
off. HA, HA, 8
) (Guess who put that stuff on in the first place)
KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mounting F604 in jig |
hi jeff
i would not cut it as it will reduce the total height of the longeron once
the fuse is flipped over. besides, this bulkhead gets a cap on the inside and
a top rail on the top. it will not be visiable once the canopy side rail
braces are in place. one note, drill a hole about 1/2 inch from the longeron
through the bulkhead for your pitot tube and or wires. it will be very
difficult to drill this hole once the bulkhead is capped and the canopy
rails/ arm rest are in place. the pitot line will run under the rail from the
rear to the front and will have to pass through the bulkhead around the same
area you are talking about only on the pilot side is necessary for the pitot
tube, but you may want to run wires on the co-pilot side. if i'm not clear
let me know, i'll try and be more specific.
scott
tampa
painting and final assembly
inspection set for mar 14
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
Subject: | Hodges Volatility Tester |
Tim,
The Petersen tester I use has the vacuum safe zone from 5.5 psi to the stop
which is 12.8 psi, or 37.5 kPa to the stop at 85 kPa.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6A Finish
Dubai, UAE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Subject: RV-List: Hodges Volatility Tester
Listers,
I've recently started testing autogas in my RV-6A, and I wanted to
order the Hodges Volatility Tester that Petersen Aviation sells for
testing autogas. Unfortunately, Mr Petersen says he can't get the
syringes for his tester, and is not producting any testers now.
So, I'm interested in cobbling together something myself for now. Can
any of you who already owns a Hodges tester tell me the vacuume
readings that correspond to the "safe" zone? From a photo I have, it
appears that the safe zone is 5.5 psi or more of vacuume, but I can't be
sure.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Masking tape on Canopy |
The paint department of a large auto parts store will have a number of
products designed to take off old masking tape as well as some blue 3M
masking tape that will not get hard over time and costs an arm and a leg for
each roll.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
The tint is ever so slight. Night vision is not impaired. It dosn't do
much on a hot day either. It does look like it is slightly tinted from the
outside, but not from the inside, really. I put a strip of static cling
type tint up on the top of the canopy, which really helps keep glare and
heat of of your noggin'.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Tint
>
> I'm about to order my finish kit for an RV7A (slider).
>
> Already checked the archives, but does anyone have any additional thoughts
to
> share regarding tinted vs clear canopy? Does tint impair visibility? Is
> there a big difference in cockpit temps? Does it look significantly
cooler?
>
> My machine will get some (not a lot) of night use. I live in the
Northeast
> where we get quite a few hazy days.
>
> John McDonnell (RV7A - All important choices made, looking for $$$ to
> implement same)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
A reminder that Todd of Todd's Canopies sells his own brand of tint, perhaps
a bit darker than Van's but I'm not sure, plus an option for a canopy that's
a bit thicker than Van's. I went this route for an 8A (not sure whether he
supports all models). Haven't flown yet (I have sat in the cockpit and made
noises) but I was impressed with the quality of his product.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Tint
>
> The tint is ever so slight. Night vision is not impaired. It dosn't do
> much on a hot day either. It does look like it is slightly tinted from
the
> outside, but not from the inside, really. I put a strip of static cling
> type tint up on the top of the canopy, which really helps keep glare and
> heat of of your noggin'.
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy Tint
>
>
> >
> > I'm about to order my finish kit for an RV7A (slider).
> >
> > Already checked the archives, but does anyone have any additional
thoughts
> to
> > share regarding tinted vs clear canopy? Does tint impair visibility?
Is
> > there a big difference in cockpit temps? Does it look significantly
> cooler?
> >
> > My machine will get some (not a lot) of night use. I live in the
> Northeast
> > where we get quite a few hazy days.
> >
> > John McDonnell (RV7A - All important choices made, looking for $$$ to
> > implement same)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Subject: | N442E First Flight |
Hi,
RV-6 N442E took to the skies yesterday with test pilot
Steve Flattum at the controls. Everything went very
well, some minor adjustments here and there (idle,
tailwheel breakout force, rudder trim wedge). I will
provide some more detailed information and photos in the
near future.
Thank you to everyone on this list who helped me out
over the last 3 1/2 years. This list was a priceless
resource.
Sincerely,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
Olson Airport, Elgin Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Lightweight starters... |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently available. It was
my understanding and general impression that most RV builders were getting the
Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best all-around starter. But I've
heard a few less than positive things about Skytech's track record recently.
I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which appears to be a new motor bolted
on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's roughly comparable in price to a Skytech,
is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes the claim that it has more torque than "any
other lightweight starter out there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if
I recall correctly it was heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is
the Skytech getting a lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately
and on their new Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
In a message dated 3/1/2002 9:43:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently available. It
> was my understanding and general impression that most RV builders were
> getting the Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best all-around
> starter. But I've heard a few less than positive things about Skytech's
> track record recently. I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which appears
> to be a new motor bolted on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's roughly
> comparable in price to a Skytech, is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes the
> claim that it has more torque than "any other lightweight starter out
> there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if I recall correctly it was
> heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is the Skytech getting a
> lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately and on their new
> Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
>
>
I have a Skytech Starter on my IO-360A1B with 10-1 Pistons and for 131hrs it
has worked flawlessly
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
I am doing my panel, and I would love to use Van's glove box kit, but I
will need to use one that is about 5/8 inch shorter.
I don't have one I can look at, so I don't know how it is constructed. Can
the height be easily reduced? Does anyone have pictures of the kit on the
web, or could post them? Or should I just roll my own. In that case, how
is the latch done?
Thanks,
Gary LIming
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Gary,
I made up my own box for my RV-6 panel and used a flush latch from an
inspection panel robbed from a wrecked chopper (the whirlybird kind.) I used
piano hinge on the bottom of the door and slotted the holes that attach the
hinge to the door. This allows the door to lift clear of the panel as it
swings open. To shut, just push down lightly as you close the door. I also
put a hinged door as the back of the box. This opens to reveal the fuse
blocks mounted on the bulkhead back there. It's real nice to be able to
store the other headset, maps, etc. in the box when flying solo aerobatics.
Also real nice to sit in the passenger's seat and change fuses.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 in Melbourne, FL
>From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Glove box
>Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 13:43:00 -0800
>
>
>I am doing my panel, and I would love to use Van's glove box kit, but I
>will need to use one that is about 5/8 inch shorter.
>
>I don't have one I can look at, so I don't know how it is constructed. Can
>the height be easily reduced? Does anyone have pictures of the kit on the
>web, or could post them? Or should I just roll my own. In that case, how
>is the latch done?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary LIming
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
I have a lightweight started from some builder in OK, it's a 280Z
starter I believe, has worked fine for 500 hrs. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightweight starters...
In a message dated 3/1/2002 9:43:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently
available. It
> was my understanding and general impression that most RV builders
were
> getting the Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best
all-around
> starter. But I've heard a few less than positive things about
Skytech's
> track record recently. I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which
appears
> to be a new motor bolted on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's
roughly
> comparable in price to a Skytech, is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes
the
> claim that it has more torque than "any other lightweight starter
out
> there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if I recall correctly
it was
> heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is the Skytech
getting a
> lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately and on
their new
> Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
>
>
I have a Skytech Starter on my IO-360A1B with 10-1 Pistons and for
131hrs it
has worked flawlessly
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Masking tape on Canopy |
Had the same problem with mine.
Phoned the local Industrial Plastics outlet and the tech person there said
to use nothing but methyl hydrate as everything else would eventually cloud
the acrylic as it slowly worked into the material. At least, I think it was
methyl hydrate, he said to buy gas-line antifreeze which was the same thing.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Masking tape on Canopy
>
> OK, my turn for some advice...
>
> Getting ready for paint... For the past 1.5 years I've had a piece of
> plastic over my windshield/canopy which was held all around the edges very
> nicely with masking tape. OOOOOOOps... Well it has protected the canopy
> very nicely from scratches, however, the masking tape has dried out
> completely and it cannot be taken off. It is dried, brittle and a problem.
>
> Obviously I can't scrape it with a razor blade (at least not too much)
> because it will scratch the acrylic.
>
> So... I'm sure I can't be the first person who has made this mistake...
what
> solvent combined with what type of mechanical methods are best to remove
> this dried-on, falling apart, and hopelessly stuck on masking tape without
> ruining the acrylic?
>
> Please do archive so somebody doesn't put masking tape on the canopy and
> leave it there for any length of time.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | New Positech Oil Cooler |
Listers,
I sent my original Positech cooler back to them after hearing from some
folks here on the list (THANKS!) that they would exchange it for one that
works. Well, I just received the new one and it looks to be MUCH improved
over the original design. The air passages between the oil cells are
significantly wider, and the whole thing seems to weigh less as a result.
The welding and general construction of the unit is top notch. I'm very
pleased that they would offer a brand new unit, no questions asked, for not
even the cost of shipping.
I plan to save it for my next project (RV-10?) so I won't have any actual
test data anytime soon.
It's good to see there is a company out there that will recognize when there
is a quality issue, and correct it when asked. My faith in Positech is now
restored, from a customer satisfaction standpoint. From what I see so far,
I fully expect the cooler will be as effective as a Stewart Warner or
Niagara.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Niagara on board. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: N442E First Flight |
Nice going, Glenn.
Jack Abell
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com wrote:
>
> Hi,
> RV-6 N442E took to the skies yesterday with test pilot
> Steve Flattum at the controls. Everything went very
> well, some minor adjustments here and there (idle,
> tailwheel breakout force, rudder trim wedge). I will
> provide some more detailed information and photos in the
> near future.
>
> Thank you to everyone on this list who helped me out
> over the last 3 1/2 years. This list was a priceless
> resource.
>
> Sincerely,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
> Olson Airport, Elgin Illinois
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
You talking about the "new" overhead mounted brakes on the -6?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Brakes
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Actually one doesn't have much adjustment at the upper longeron without
also
> changing rudder cable link length.The pivot for the two pedal assembly
tubes
> must be about roughly 1.25 inches apart. So if the pedals don't strike an
> isosceles triangle straight down then they will pivot kinda strange from
> right foot to left foot. There is some room for adjustment here, but not
> much.
>
> I personally much prefer the way my pedals are now that I've gotten used
to
> it, and the mod is very easy to install after its flying as its not a
> redesign, but really an add-on. So no matter how/when one does it.
Certainly
> during taxi tests you should confirm that the aircraft can be safely
> operated through ground/air transition. The large hose on the lower tube
> would work just as well for the 6's with the overhead pedals.
>
> I will add that I originally found this problem on the 8 and didn't think
it
> was happening to my 6 until I did a real soft cross wind wheel landing and
> realized that one wheel was chirping a lot more than it shoulda been on
> touch down. When the pedal was extended my toes were putting on brake, and
> it was hard to avoid while trying to control all the levers and knobs and
> switches and whistles and bells and crap in my cockpit. ;{)
>
> W
>
>
> <<<<<<<<<<
> I guess someone has to stick up for Van's design. I installed my brakes
per
> the
> plans, with the plastic tubing from the reservoir and from the right side
> pedals to the left (high pressure tubing). Since I started flying my Six I
> have
> never had a lick of trouble of any kind with the brakes - no leaks - no
> inadvertent application. The geometry of the pedals is exactly per the
plans
> but remember that you can adjust the angle of the brake pedal by changing
> the
> mounting position of the pivot blocks on the longeron. This does NOT
change
> the
> distance of the rudder pedals from the seat - the only way you can do
that
> is
> to change the length of the cables or the links.
>
> If you haven't flown yet, don't redesign the brakes - spend your time
> finishing
> the airplane. If you have a problem later, which is very unlikely, deal
with
> it
> then.
>
> Dave -6 So Cal
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk3(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Looking for prop |
I'm looking for a wooden prop for a RV-6A with 180 hp O-360. I was planning to
order one from
Aymar-Dumuth but the lead time is several months. I would consider metal props
also.
If anyone has a prop they want to sell or knows where I might inquire I would be
grateful.
Please contact me off-list at dshenk3(at)attbi.com.
Thanks for any help.
Doug "suffering from my own poor planning" Shenk, RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
I replaced the starter on my 180 HP Lycoming powered arrow three years ago
with the Skytech starter. I used to have problems with hot starts and when the
weather was really cold. The Skytech solved all that and I beleive it turns the
engine at least twice as fast as the old starter. If it were to fail I would
replace
it with another Skytech.
Earl, RV4
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2002 9:43:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
> > I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently available. It
> > was my understanding and general impression that most RV builders were
> > getting the Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best all-around
> > starter. But I've heard a few less than positive things about Skytech's
> > track record recently. I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which appears
> > to be a new motor bolted on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's roughly
> > comparable in price to a Skytech, is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes the
> > claim that it has more torque than "any other lightweight starter out
> > there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if I recall correctly it was
> > heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is the Skytech getting a
> > lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately and on their new
> > Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
> >
> >
>
> I have a Skytech Starter on my IO-360A1B with 10-1 Pistons and for 131hrs it
> has worked flawlessly
>
> Tim Barnes
> Meangreen RV-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Rick,
I like your glove box idea and the access through the back to fuse
blocks.
I'm planning to use mostly fuses in blocks and only a few circuit
breakers per the Aeroelectric Connection suggestions. During your DAR
inspection was there any question or objection to the use of fuses
instead of circuit breakers?
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
>
> I made up my own box for my RV-6 panel and used a flush latch from an
> inspection panel robbed from a wrecked chopper (the whirlybird kind.) I used
> piano hinge on the bottom of the door and slotted the holes that attach the
> hinge to the door. This allows the door to lift clear of the panel as it
> swings open. To shut, just push down lightly as you close the door. I also
> put a hinged door as the back of the box. This opens to reveal the fuse
> blocks mounted on the bulkhead back there. It's real nice to be able to
> store the other headset, maps, etc. in the box when flying solo aerobatics.
> Also real nice to sit in the passenger's seat and change fuses.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 in Melbourne, FL
>
> >From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Glove box
> >Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 13:43:00 -0800
> >
> >
> >
> >I am doing my panel, and I would love to use Van's glove box kit, but I
> >will need to use one that is about 5/8 inch shorter.
> >
> >I don't have one I can look at, so I don't know how it is constructed. Can
> >the height be easily reduced? Does anyone have pictures of the kit on the
> >web, or could post them? Or should I just roll my own. In that case, how
> >is the latch done?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Gary LIming
> >
> >
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Looking for prop |
Hi Doug,
Contact :
Colin Walker A (604) 581-9602
11393-96A Avenue
Surrey, BC, V3V 1Z7
Canada
(604) 581-9602
I'm told he makes good props at good prices.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Shenk" <dshenk3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for prop
>
> I'm looking for a wooden prop for a RV-6A with 180 hp O-360. I was
planning to order one from
> Aymar-Dumuth but the lead time is several months. I would consider metal
props also.
> If anyone has a prop they want to sell or knows where I might inquire I
would be grateful.
> Please contact me off-list at dshenk3(at)attbi.com.
> Thanks for any help.
> Doug "suffering from my own poor planning" Shenk, RV-6A
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Looking for prop |
Doug,
Do I have a deal for you......no, seriously.
I have a Sensenich 72FM prop for the 0-360 that came off my RV-6 (after 200 hrs)
after I upgraded to a Hartzell.
It's a 83" pitch and Sensenich metal spinner (painted white) and mounting bolts
comes with it.
$1500 for all. You pay for shipping.
Let me know if that works for you. (Or anybody else for that matter).
Laird
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Mar 1, 2002 3:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for prop
I'm looking for a wooden prop for a RV-6A with 180 hp O-360. I was planning to
order one from
Aymar-Dumuth but the lead time is several months. I would consider metal props
also.
If anyone has a prop they want to sell or knows where I might inquire I would be
grateful.
Please contact me off-list at dshenk3(at)attbi.com.
Thanks for any help.
Doug "suffering from my own poor planning" Shenk, RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N442E First Flight |
Glenn,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: N442E First Flight
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 17:31:27 +0000
-- RV-List message posted by: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
Hi,
RV-6 N442E took to the skies yesterday with test pilot
Steve Flattum at the controls. Everything went very
well, some minor adjustments here and there (idle,
tailwheel breakout force, rudder trim wedge). I will
provide some more detailed information and photos in the
near future.
Thank you to everyone on this list who helped me out
over the last 3 1/2 years. This list was a priceless
resource.
Sincerely,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
Olson Airport, Elgin Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Transponder Antenna Location |
List,
I am trying to determine a good location for the Transponder
Antenna on my RV6-A? How about in front of the Battery Box with the
cable up the inside of the firewall? Anyone flying know if the exhaust
is a problem?
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: A survival tool (to avoid your wife's wrath) |
wow rick
i'm gonna start calling you austin caldwell or rick tinkler
scott
tampa
no not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
Subject: | Re: Mounting F604 in jig |
Mount the bulkhead with the proper dimensions, only trim the F604 sides if
the bulkhead is not at the proper height from the jig cross member. The skin
will bridge the gap and there are no "gotchas" in this area that I saw. Put
it in place, clamp well -- I still have my Frey Jig and birdcage option that
makes this a piece of cake if anyone cares to purchase it -- finish the
skeleton, skin, drill, deburr, dimple, prime, rivet..... and move on. Good
Luck!
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mounting F604 in jig
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I am trying to get my F604 bulkhead mounted in my jig (thanks Dave W.
> The jig is working great) and I am stumped regarding the angle forward
> that it makes in the jig. Is it necessary to trim the F604 side pieces
> ( those that sit on the edge of the longerons) to compensate for this
> forward angle?? When I get the top of the F604 positioned 29 15/16 from
> the firewall and then angle the bulkhead forward so the bottom is 29
> 1/2 inches from the firewall, it creates quite a gap in the middle of
> the F604 side pieces where it is resting on the longerons. Seems to me
> that I would need to trim the top of the F604 sidepieces so they sit
> flush and even on the longeron. Haven't seen any reference to this in
> any instructions or the List archives, other than getting the bulkhead
> at the proper height from the jig crossmember.
>
> Thanks in advance folks. I sure feels good building this RV again after
> a long hiatus while building a house. Life is good again!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Richard, No problems with the fuses for the inspection. My DAR was the very
knowledgable John Murphy who has built at least 12 homebuilts. He only
recommended I discard the nuts on the oil transducer & use AN lock nuts. I
had used the regular nuts that came with the transducer.
Rick
>From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glove box
>Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 17:32:13 -0500
>
>
>Rick,
>
>I like your glove box idea and the access through the back to fuse
>blocks.
>
>I'm planning to use mostly fuses in blocks and only a few circuit
>breakers per the Aeroelectric Connection suggestions. During your DAR
>inspection was there any question or objection to the use of fuses
>instead of circuit breakers?
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>
>
>Rick Caldwell wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > I made up my own box for my RV-6 panel and used a flush latch from an
> > inspection panel robbed from a wrecked chopper (the whirlybird kind.) I
>used
> > piano hinge on the bottom of the door and slotted the holes that attach
>the
> > hinge to the door. This allows the door to lift clear of the panel as it
> > swings open. To shut, just push down lightly as you close the door. I
>also
> > put a hinged door as the back of the box. This opens to reveal the fuse
> > blocks mounted on the bulkhead back there. It's real nice to be able to
> > store the other headset, maps, etc. in the box when flying solo
>aerobatics.
> > Also real nice to sit in the passenger's seat and change fuses.
> >
> > Rick Caldwell
> > RV-6 in Melbourne, FL
> >
> > >From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: Glove box
> > >Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 13:43:00 -0800
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >I am doing my panel, and I would love to use Van's glove box kit, but I
> > >will need to use one that is about 5/8 inch shorter.
> > >
> > >I don't have one I can look at, so I don't know how it is constructed.
>Can
> > >the height be easily reduced? Does anyone have pictures of the kit on
>the
> > >web, or could post them? Or should I just roll my own. In that case,
>how
> > >is the latch done?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Gary LIming
> > >
> > >
> >
> > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
> >
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
I have lost the first page of the RV 8 fuse manual, If someone could send a
copy via E-Mail it would help. (both sides please)
Thank you.
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Fwd: Fw: TIP-UP SLIDER, for RV's |
From: "rmeske" <rmeske(at)gcfn.org>
Subject: Fw: TIP-UP SLIDER, for RV6
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:18:12 -0500
Can you copy the text below and forward this to the list for me. I can't seem
to get it to go. THANKS!
----- Original Message -----
From: rmeske
Subject: TIP-UP SLIDER, for RV6
OK, OK, Yea, I'm the guy that did this first. I guess I'm famous now. I saw my pictures on the internet today to my surprise. (www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt.html) THANKS!
I first introduced this modification at the Oshkosh show in 2000. This was the
first time I flew into Oshkosh and also the first time I flew my RV-6A in too.
It was the first time I had anything to show off. I had a blast talking
to all of you enthusiastic builders!
The canopy TIP-UP / SLIDER modification is great if you want to carry a fold-up
bicycle, heavy, or awkward to load baggage. You don't even have to risk scratching
your canopy or dropping your heavy loads on your wing anymore. You can
even retrofit this to an already built RV6. I don't have the exact plans
for other RVs, but I believe you savey RV builders out there can utilize my set
of plans and adapt them to work for the RV7 and RV9 as well. . . Just some
easy redimension would have to be accomplished.
Enough people have asked me to get some plans together for this thing, so I did.
I now have a series of good pictures I will e-mail and a set of drawings
I will land mail to anyone that can cough up $25.00 for my trouble.
Just e-mail me for the exact details:
(rmeske(at)gcfn.org)
THANKS
Rich Meske P.E.
Can you copy the text below and forward this to the
list for me. I can't seem to get it to go. THANKS!
----- Original Message -----
From: <A titlermeske(at)gcfn.org href"mailto:rmeske(at)gcfn.org">rmeske
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Cc: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: TIP-UP SLIDER, for RV6
OK, OK, Yea, I'm the guy that dfirst. I guess I'm famous now. I saw my pictures
on the
internet today to my surprise. (www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt.html)
THANKS!
I first introduced this modification at the Oshkosh
show in 2000. This wasthe first time I flew into Oshkosh and also
the first time I flew my RV-6A in too.It was the first time I had
anything to show off. I had a blast talking to all of you enthusiastic
builders!
The canopy TIP-UP / SLIDER modification is great if
you want to carry a fold-up bicycle, heavy, or awkward to load baggage.
You don't even have to risk scratching your canopy or dropping your heavy loads
on your wing anymore. You can even retrofit this to an already built
RV6. I don't have the exact plans for other RVs, but I believe you savey
RV builders out there can utilize my set of plans and adapt them to work for
theRV7 and RV9 as well.. . Just some easy
redimensionwould have to be accomplished.
Enough people have asked me to get some plans
together for this thing, so I did. I now have a series of good pictures I
will e-mail and a set ofdrawings I will land mail to anyone that can cough
up $25.00 for my trouble.
Just e-mail me for the exact details:
(rmeske(at)gcfn.org)
THANKS
Rich Meske P.E.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
In a message dated 3/1/2002 9:43:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently available. It
> was my understanding and general impression that most RV builders were
> getting the Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best all-around
> starter. But I've heard a few less than positive things about Skytech's
> track record recently. I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which appears
> to be a new motor bolted on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's roughly
> comparable in price to a Skytech, is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes the
> claim that it has more torque than "any other lightweight starter out
> there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if I recall correctly it was
> heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is the Skytech getting a
> lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately and on their new
> Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
Mark-
First of all, the manufacturer is Sky-Tec so people can actually search
properly.
The Sky-Tec starter in my 6A has 500 hrs on it and just a week ago I replaced
the solenoid on the side of the starter for $40. A good deal as that appears
to be the only thing that ages on them (I'll see if brushes are the next
thing but for now they're good). I think it is a super unit and I would get
the same setup if I were to build again.
The great thing is that these starters really crank if you have a good
battery. I recently replaced my 23 lb Concord RG25 battery with the 14 lb
Odyssey PC680, which you can get on the web for $100 or less ($70 less than
Van's), and boy does it turn things over sprightly. You can taxi on this
starter.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Transponder Antenna Location |
Tom,
It may be a problem.
My brother in law has a Cirrus SR-20 with the transponder antenna located
there. He and other Cirrus owners have some problems with their transponder
from time to time of not being received from ATC. Turn the plane 10 degrees
or so, and the problem fixed itself. The Cirrus has some long exhaust pipes
and could be shielding the signal. Perhaps the shorter pipes on an RV won't
be a problem. I located mine slightly off center just forward of the
elevator belcrank on my RV-6. It is accesable through the center baggage
area inspection plate.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> Ervin
> Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 6:15 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Transponder Antenna Location
>
>
> List,
> I am trying to determine a good location for the Transponder
> Antenna on my RV6-A? How about in front of the Battery Box with the
> cable up the inside of the firewall? Anyone flying know if the exhaust
> is a problem?
>
> Thanks, Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? |
From: | John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com> |
I have an American made vertical card compass in the top center of my
instrument panel. It works fine. When I turn on the landing lights it
get a 15 degree deviation error. I grounded the landing lights in the
wing tips which may set up a magnetic field in the aircraft. A friend
has the same vertical card in a Rocket. Works fine. I went through 2
Chinese vertical cards which immediately failed before I got the US made.
Boyd Seal
RV-6
Building RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Location |
Glenn, It looks like I was about to make a mistake that a "Certified
Aircraft Manufacture" has made! Sure don't want my RV6-A to slip to their
standards.
I thought about heat being a problem but not interference from
the exhaust (I'm an Accountant not an Engineer) so before jumping presented
this idea to the list.
I have been told the Transponder Antenna won't interfere with
the Comm. Antennas even if placed in their circle of operation. Is this
Correct?
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Antenna Location
>
> Tom,
>
> It may be a problem.
>
> My brother in law has a Cirrus SR-20 with the transponder antenna located
> there. He and other Cirrus owners have some problems with their
transponder
> from time to time of not being received from ATC. Turn the plane 10
degrees
> or so, and the problem fixed itself. The Cirrus has some long exhaust
pipes
> and could be shielding the signal. Perhaps the shorter pipes on an RV
won't
> be a problem. I located mine slightly off center just forward of the
> elevator belcrank on my RV-6. It is accesable through the center baggage
> area inspection plate.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> > Ervin
> > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 6:15 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Transponder Antenna Location
> >
> >
> >
> > List,
> > I am trying to determine a good location for the Transponder
> > Antenna on my RV6-A? How about in front of the Battery Box with the
> > cable up the inside of the firewall? Anyone flying know if the exhaust
> > is a problem?
> >
> > Thanks, Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
> Guys,
> I meant to save that web address on the slider/tilt canopy
> but dumped it accidentally. Would someone who has it please put it up
> again.
> Thank You
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt.html
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | 90 degree park brake fittings |
There was some recent discussion about getting 90 degree fittings in the
closely spaced holes of the Matco park brake valve. I used AN914 elbows, and
screwed AN816 nipples into them. Worked well for me.
Chris Brooks
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I seem to agree with everyone on this one. I have a Sky Tec, and it works
real good. It does seem to require more power from the battery, and it does
eat solenoids. So it appears to me the B&C should definitely be considered
by builders who are looking for increased reliability, and quality at an
increased price. I have found very few people around my airport who are
willing or able to hand prop a low hanging O-360 with a short prop. I am
not one! I am going to get a spare and carry it on X countries. It looks
like it can be changed without even removing the starter from the engine.
Unhook the electrical connections and two Phillips head screws on the front.
I have replaced my Sky-Tec solenoid (the one on the starter itself), twice
now, so it appears that this is a significant trend. Don't have my
maintenance records here but I recollect the times were about 500 hours and
again at around 850 hours.
It is a puzzle to me, one of many. The solenoid appears to be a standard
automotive item, and not peculiar to sky- Tec. This last time I replaced
it with a very generic type, and rewired it so it is not held in by the
"wind down" voltage from the motor. I will report if this influences the
life, but I am very skeptical. Also it will be another year or two at my
current slow flying pace.
The failure mode was that it became intermittent. Some times it worked
sometimes not. I therefore suspect it just got fried from all the heat it
sees, and the coils became fused or somehow otherwise ineffective. I still
have the last one if anyone wants to do an autopsy.???
D Walsh
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 00:14:41 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightweight starters...
>
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2002 9:43:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
>
>> I'm a bit confused about the lightweight starters currently available. It
>> was my understanding and general impression that most RV builders were
>> getting the Skytech starter because it was the lightest, best all-around
>> starter. But I've heard a few less than positive things about Skytech's
>> track record recently. I looked at the Magnaflite starter, which appears
>> to be a new motor bolted on to the old "Bendix drive"....it's roughly
>> comparable in price to a Skytech, is 0.1 pounds lighter, and makes the
>> claim that it has more torque than "any other lightweight starter out
>> there". I haven't looked at the B&C unit but if I recall correctly it was
>> heavier and more expensive than the Skytech. So, is the Skytech getting a
>> lot of use simply because Vans sells it (both separately and on their new
>> Lycomings) or is there something I'm missing?
>
> Mark-
>
> First of all, the manufacturer is Sky-Tec so people can actually search
> properly.
>
> The Sky-Tec starter in my 6A has 500 hrs on it and just a week ago I replaced
> the solenoid on the side of the starter for $40. A good deal as that appears
> to be the only thing that ages on them (I'll see if brushes are the next
> thing but for now they're good). I think it is a super unit and I would get
> the same setup if I were to build again.
>
> The great thing is that these starters really crank if you have a good
> battery. I recently replaced my 23 lb Concord RG25 battery with the 14 lb
> Odyssey PC680, which you can get on the web for $100 or less ($70 less than
> Van's), and boy does it turn things over sprightly. You can taxi on this
> starter.
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fwd: Fw: TIP-UP SLIDER, for RV's |
Try this:
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/slide-tilt1.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
"Gary A. Sobek"
Subject: | Terra Transponder |
I'm looking for a Terra TRT 250D transponder, new or used. Since I
already have the tray mounted and wired it will be a real pain to change
over. They don't make them any more, so if you haven't cut your panel
yet don't. I'm looking for a spare so I can swap one while the other is
out for service. The older Terra products where OK, but after Trimble
bought Terra the QC went down hill.
Contact me off list if you got one to sell.
Garry "Casper"
Hopefully back in the air this week end.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Rudder pedal mods |
Listers,
I have now included Rick Fogerson's RV-6 rudder pedal stirrup mod on the
SE Florida RV Builders site. Rick's mod is for the "overhead" style of
rudder pedals. Wheeler North's mod relates to either the floor mounted or
overhead style. See them at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Controls%20%26%20Control%20Surfaces/Control%20Linkages/
Click on the folder marked RUDDER PEDALS
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Lightweight starters |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Thanks for the clarification....Vans website, and another dealer I found
on the web in a search, call them "Skytech". But in looking very closely
at the label on the starter itself, it appears to say "Sky-Tec".
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
------
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightweight starters...
Mark-
First of all, the manufacturer is Sky-Tec so people can actually search
properly.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" Now on Matronics Server! |
RV-Listers,
Frank van der Hulst's "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" has been moved to the
Matronics server. You can pruse Franks excellent documentation by going to
the following Link:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide
There is also a link from the standard RV-List web page at:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/
Frank will be maintaining his pages directly on the Matronics server.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Location |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> Glenn, It looks like I was about to make a mistake that a "Certified
> Aircraft Manufacture" has made! Sure don't want my RV6-A to slip to their
> standards.
> I thought about heat being a problem but not interference from
> the exhaust (I'm an Accountant not an Engineer) so before jumping presented
> this idea to the list.
> I have been told the Transponder Antenna won't interfere with
> the Comm. Antennas even if placed in their circle of operation. Is this
> Correct?
>
> Tom in Ohio
Tom, on my -6 I have two comm radios and the antennas are located right
in front of the spar as far apart as i can get them. The transponder antenna
is in the center right in front of the spar between the two comm antennas.
They have been working great for 13 years. I don't know if you have
room to do this with the little wheel on the wrong end of the airplane
because of the main gear support structure of the -6A :)
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
Subject: | LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
I would like opinions from those who are flying with the LRI. I want to
get my IAS from a RMI Encoder and have planned to install the LRI to
supplement airspeed. If I lost air speed because of an electrical
problem, I'm wondering if how well you could fly with just the LRI.
Maybe it would be fine, I'm just having a hard time imagining flying
without an air speed indicator (having never been in that situation).
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage soon
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Tool Advice for a New Builder |
I'm in process of setting up a workshop and hope to start work on an RV-7 by
Fall. I have all of stationary tools recommended in RV-7 Preview Plans,
i.e., a bench grinder, 1" belt sander, 30 gal air compressor, band saw and
drill press. I've been looking through tool catalogs and checking on-line for
hand tools and am wondering if tool kits offered in Aircraft Spruce and
Specialty Company 2001 - 2002 catalog are a good deal. They are on p. 466 -
P/N TP 176RV for $605, and p. 467 - P/N TP176MKB for $795. Does anyone have
any experience with these kits? Are these reasonably good tools? How about
the listed TP82 or TP83 rivet guns? I have little experience w/ riveting and
want to get a reasonably good item. Are these kits a good way to pick up
many of the required tools to build an RV or should I look elsewhere? Where?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Transponder Antenna Location |
Tom,
I don't know if they would interfere with each other or not. I placed my
Comm antenna just aft of the battery box. It is far away from the
transponder antenna, however I don't know it it really matters. My
radio/intercom system has zero interference noise from the transponer or the
strobes. It worked for me.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
>
> Glenn, It looks like I was about to make a mistake that a "Certified
> Aircraft Manufacture" has made! Sure don't want my RV6-A to slip to their
> standards.
> I thought about heat being a problem but not interference from
> the exhaust (I'm an Accountant not an Engineer) so before jumping
> presented
> this idea to the list.
> I have been told the Transponder Antenna won't interfere with
> the Comm. Antennas even if placed in their circle of operation. Is this
> Correct?
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder Antenna Location
>
>
>
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > It may be a problem.
> >
> > My brother in law has a Cirrus SR-20 with the transponder
> antenna located
> > there. He and other Cirrus owners have some problems with their
> transponder
> > from time to time of not being received from ATC. Turn the plane 10
> degrees
> > or so, and the problem fixed itself. The Cirrus has some long exhaust
> pipes
> > and could be shielding the signal. Perhaps the shorter pipes on an RV
> won't
> > be a problem. I located mine slightly off center just forward of the
> > elevator belcrank on my RV-6. It is accesable through the
> center baggage
> > area inspection plate.
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
> > N442E
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
> > > Ervin
> > > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 6:15 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Transponder Antenna Location
> > >
> > >
>
> > >
> > > List,
> > > I am trying to determine a good location for the Transponder
> > > Antenna on my RV6-A? How about in front of the Battery Box with the
> > > cable up the inside of the firewall? Anyone flying know if the exhaust
> > > is a problem?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Tom in Ohio
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm in process of setting up a workshop and hope to start work on an RV-7 by
> Fall. I have all of stationary tools recommended in RV-7 Preview Plans,
> i.e., a bench grinder, 1" belt sander, 30 gal air compressor, band saw and
> drill press. I've been looking through tool catalogs and checking on-line for
> hand tools and am wondering if tool kits offered in Aircraft Spruce and
> Specialty Company 2001 - 2002 catalog are a good deal. They are on p. 466 -
> P/N TP 176RV for $605, and p. 467 - P/N TP176MKB for $795. Does anyone have
> any experience with these kits? Are these reasonably good tools? How about
> the listed TP82 or TP83 rivet guns? I have little experience w/ riveting and
> want to get a reasonably good item. Are these kits a good way to pick up
> many of the required tools to build an RV or should I look elsewhere? Where?
I bought RV Empennage Tool Kit ( I got the 2X rivet gun) from
http://www.ClevelandTool.com and then I added to it some items from
http://www.averytools.com.
These two places specalize in RV tools. One thing I can tell you is that if you
are going to build the wings you will need 300 - 3/32 clekos
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rf grimlins finally chased out |
hi guys
just had a couple builders stop by to help me fiqure what was wrong with my
com/nav audio panel. well i was confident it was wired right, but wanted to
verify with don who has the same terra radios etc... we double checked all my
wiring was right on. but when i was putting the audio panel connector in back
of the rack i noticed that the connector wasn't polorized, meaning it could
be attached to the audio panel upside down, and right side up. guess what, i
had it upside down. once i flipped it over everything came to life as it was
supposed to. i can even hear traffic at peter o knight, sitting in my shop.
ended up something so simple, and all those sleepless nights should stop now.
thanks to all who gave me advise and offered to help.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
In a message dated 3/2/2002 5:28:34 PM Central Standard Time,
bhester(at)apex.net writes:
> I bought RV Empennage Tool Kit ( I got the 2X rivet gun) from
> http://www.ClevelandTool.com and then I added to it some items from
> http://www.averytools.com.
both are very good, i bought all my tools from brown aviation supply. they
are geared more towards the a&p market but there prices are better then the
above and they sell great tools, in many cases the sames tools. I bought my
c frame bench riviter from brown and it was the avery with the avery stickers
etc.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 C/S Prop Spinner Backing Plate Jig Available |
Rv8don(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> To the RV8 builders out there:
>
> When it came time to mount my prop to fit the cowl, I didn't want to deal
> with having to walk around the prop all the time or worry about the low
> ceiling in my shop so I made a jig out of an old C/S prop hub in order to
> hold the spinner backing plate in the same position as the regular prop hub.
> Anyway, I'm done with it, and while I'd like to maintian ownership of it, if
> it will help anyone else, I'd be happy to make it availalbe. Contact me off
> list.
>
> It's for an RV8/IO-360/Hartzel compact hub setup.
>
> Regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
> rv8don(at)aol.com
Here's another trick for jigging the spinner backplate into proper
position without having to mount the prop:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine2.html
Scroll down to the fourth photo.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
I forgot to mention it before, the lightweight starter I bought that is
made by an RV builder in OK (I forget his name) using a 280Z starter
costs about $180. It has run flawlessly for 500 hours and many G's! I
remember the OK part because a tornado had ruined his shop and damaged
his RV the week before I ordered it. Kevin
----- Original
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Ralph Koger, of Koger Sunshade fame, has introduced a set of heavy duty
plastic wheel chocks especially for the aircraft market. You can see a
review here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/koger-chocks.htm
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
I have flown the LRI in my RV-6 for a good many hours and like it (in
spite of a few negative comments about the LRI on this list mostly from
folks who have never flown the unit).
You can see my comments and observations here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/liftreserve.htm
The only airspeed indicator in my plane (until the Blue Mtn EFIS/Lite
arrives!!) is a RMI uEncoder. I would have no problems at all landing
with just the LRI, matter of fact it is the primary instrument used for
airspeed control during takeoffs and landings.
By the way, there is no reason to ever have an electrical failure that
would render the uEncoder inoperative if proper wiring architecture is
used. Get a copy of Bob Nuckoll's book "The AeroElectric Connection" and
read the section on dual bus systems......several times if necessary.
:-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
====================
"Richard D. Fogerson" wrote:
>
>
> I would like opinions from those who are flying with the LRI. I want to
> get my IAS from a RMI Encoder and have planned to install the LRI to
> supplement airspeed. If I lost air speed because of an electrical
> problem, I'm wondering if how well you could fly with just the LRI.
> Maybe it would be fine, I'm just having a hard time imagining flying
> without an air speed indicator (having never been in that situation).
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage soon
> Boise, ID
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
Kevin,
The person you are referring to is Mark Landoll. I met him at Oshkosh '00
and saw his damaged RV-4. Mark is a real character but I have heard only
good things about his starters and harmonic balancers'. He might be in the
Yeller pages. HTH AL
>
>I forgot to mention it before, the lightweight starter I bought that is
>made by an RV builder in OK (I forget his name) using a 280Z starter
>costs about $180. It has run flawlessly for 500 hours and many G's! I
>remember the OK part because a tornado had ruined his shop and damaged
>his RV the week before I ordered it. Kevin
> ----- Original
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: | REHodges Volatility Tester |
Dave,
I got a vacuume gauge and hooked it up to a small syringe with a
sample of gas. I was able to obtain about 7psi vaccume, which did not
appear to cause the gas to "boil", although there were a few tiny
bubbles from around the plunger seal. I think they were from tiny air
leaks, not fuel boiling. I believe I need a bigger syringe.
I have a question regarding operating of the system. Are you
supposed to pull the plunger and note the vacuume at the point that
the fuel just starts to boil, or are you supposed to pull the plunger out,
get the fuel boiling merrily away, and read the gauge when the fuel
stops boiling?
Also, do you have the info regarding translating the Hodges reading
to Reid Vapor Pressure?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
On 2 Mar 2002, at 20:30, Sam Buchanan wrote:
> I have flown the LRI in my RV-6 for a good many hours and like it (in
> spite of a few negative comments about the LRI on this list mostly
> from folks who have never flown the unit).
That's me. I've not flown the LRI. I have, however, spent a lot of
time reading the patent, it's mathematical description, and the
approximate mathematical underpinnings that used to be published on
the LRI web site. Everything I saw led me to suspect that the LRI will
give reasonably consistent readings in 1 G flight (good for final
approach energy management), but in higher G flight (tight base to
final turns, for example) will show more "lift reserve" (stall margin)
than actually exists. If that's the case, pilots need to know about it,
because it could be dangerous. It would also call in to question the
LRI web site's claim of "100% Stall Protection."
When this was raised in the past (see archives in '00), the owner of the
company (Mr Huntinton) had no data to address the question. He
said EAA's Glastar project was supposed to address the question,
but I'm not familiar with the results.
Has anybody on the list seen any quality test results? Has anybody
on the list who owns a LRI taken the data to determine what the LRI
indicates at the stall in 1, 2, 3G flight?
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
In all honesty, I believe that a pilot who pulls two to three Gs turning
base-to-final needs to know that such behavior is of itself dangerous and
can lead to his death. The LRI probably does show a false reserve in an
accelerated stall but I think that the probability of an incident due to
running out of lift near the ground is far more probable than one due to
false lift indications from an LRI.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
>
> On 2 Mar 2002, at 20:30, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> > I have flown the LRI in my RV-6 for a good many hours and like it (in
> > spite of a few negative comments about the LRI on this list mostly
> > from folks who have never flown the unit).
>
> That's me. I've not flown the LRI. I have, however, spent a lot of
> time reading the patent, it's mathematical description, and the
> approximate mathematical underpinnings that used to be published on
> the LRI web site. Everything I saw led me to suspect that the LRI will
> give reasonably consistent readings in 1 G flight (good for final
> approach energy management), but in higher G flight (tight base to
> final turns, for example) will show more "lift reserve" (stall margin)
> than actually exists. If that's the case, pilots need to know about it,
> because it could be dangerous. It would also call in to question the
> LRI web site's claim of "100% Stall Protection."
>
> When this was raised in the past (see archives in '00), the owner of the
> company (Mr Huntinton) had no data to address the question. He
> said EAA's Glastar project was supposed to address the question,
> but I'm not familiar with the results.
>
> Has anybody on the list seen any quality test results? Has anybody
> on the list who owns a LRI taken the data to determine what the LRI
> indicates at the stall in 1, 2, 3G flight?
>
> Tim Lewis
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Tool Advice for a New Builder |
From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Tool Advice for a New Builder |
From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Dan,
Finally...an issue I have input on. I am somewhat in the same boat as you. I have been watching the list the last couple of years, and I have finally bought all my tools. As for the vendors...I think Avery, Cleveland, and Brown all sell the same stuff (with the exception of the Avery squeezer). Of the three, Brown seems to have the best prices and has been very easy to deal with (haven't delt with Avery or Cleveland). One option I took that saved me a great deal of money was buying some surplus stuff. There is a place in Wichita called the Yard Store (http://yardstore.com/). They sell new, used, and surplus stuff. Their website really doesn't tell you what they have. You really need to call or go by if you want some deals. They almost always have good used rivet guns under $100, and they will generally beat any other vendor's prices on new stuff (they had a Brown catalog when I was there). Some of the good deals I got include a good used US Tool 3x gun for $89 and about 400 clecos for $0.23 each (metal-bodied type).
Now if I can only decide which kit to order. (I think I'm leaning toward the 8A
over the 7A.)
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrbernie(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator(vs PS AOA) |
I agree with Sam B and the others that the LRI is probably a very
satisfactory device to fly the airplane safely during landing and T/O. I use
the propietary systems AOA and have tested it during a high G accel stall
and it is very accurate.When I did my BFR ride this year the CFI was an
aerobatic Pitts instructor and he ask me had I ever tested the airplane
during hard accel stalls. Maybe 1.5 to 2 g's. He proceeded to lean into it
and he estimated the G at 2.5 to 3. The top red light on the AOA came on
just at the break during both a left and right stall. It would be
interesting to try the LRI at the same type conditions, but I agree that I
would never pull anything near that many G's near the ground unless it was
to avoid an ostacle like an unseen airplane or tower!!
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
>Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 23:03:46 -0600
>
>
>In all honesty, I believe that a pilot who pulls two to three Gs turning
>base-to-final needs to know that such behavior is of itself dangerous and
>can lead to his death. The LRI probably does show a false reserve in an
>accelerated stall but I think that the probability of an incident due to
>running out of lift near the ground is far more probable than one due to
>false lift indications from an LRI.
>
>Dennis Persyk N600DP 114 hours
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
>
>
> >
> > On 2 Mar 2002, at 20:30, Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> > > I have flown the LRI in my RV-6 for a good many hours and like it (in
> > > spite of a few negative comments about the LRI on this list mostly
> > > from folks who have never flown the unit).
> >
> > That's me. I've not flown the LRI. I have, however, spent a lot of
> > time reading the patent, it's mathematical description, and the
> > approximate mathematical underpinnings that used to be published on
> > the LRI web site. Everything I saw led me to suspect that the LRI will
> > give reasonably consistent readings in 1 G flight (good for final
> > approach energy management), but in higher G flight (tight base to
> > final turns, for example) will show more "lift reserve" (stall margin)
> > than actually exists. If that's the case, pilots need to know about it,
> > because it could be dangerous. It would also call in to question the
> > LRI web site's claim of "100% Stall Protection."
> >
> > When this was raised in the past (see archives in '00), the owner of the
> > company (Mr Huntinton) had no data to address the question. He
> > said EAA's Glastar project was supposed to address the question,
> > but I'm not familiar with the results.
> >
> > Has anybody on the list seen any quality test results? Has anybody
> > on the list who owns a LRI taken the data to determine what the LRI
> > indicates at the stall in 1, 2, 3G flight?
> >
> > Tim Lewis
> > ******
> > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> > ******
> >
> >
>
>
Bernie Kerr, 6A,O-320,tipup,Sensenich metal,SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Rick,
Thanks for your reply. I have read comments from others on the list who
had inspections from FAA or DARs whose mindset was that in flight
accessible CBs were required. This was counter to the more reasonable
Aeroelectric philosophy.
Regards,
Richard
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> Richard, No problems with the fuses for the inspection. My DAR was the very
> knowledgable John Murphy who has built at least 12 homebuilts. He only
> recommended I discard the nuts on the oil transducer & use AN lock nuts. I
> had used the regular nuts that came with the transducer.
>
> Rick
>
> >From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Glove box
> >Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 17:32:13 -0500
> >
> >
> >Rick,
> >
> >I like your glove box idea and the access through the back to fuse
> >blocks.
> >
> >I'm planning to use mostly fuses in blocks and only a few circuit
> >breakers per the Aeroelectric Connection suggestions. During your DAR
> >inspection was there any question or objection to the use of fuses
> >instead of circuit breakers?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Richard Dudley
> >
> >
> >Rick Caldwell wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Gary,
> > >
> > > I made up my own box for my RV-6 panel and used a flush latch from an
> > > inspection panel robbed from a wrecked chopper (the whirlybird kind.) I
> >used
> > > piano hinge on the bottom of the door and slotted the holes that attach
> >the
> > > hinge to the door. This allows the door to lift clear of the panel as it
> > > swings open. To shut, just push down lightly as you close the door. I
> >also
> > > put a hinged door as the back of the box. This opens to reveal the fuse
> > > blocks mounted on the bulkhead back there. It's real nice to be able to
> > > store the other headset, maps, etc. in the box when flying solo
> >aerobatics.
> > > Also real nice to sit in the passenger's seat and change fuses.
> > >
> > > Rick Caldwell
> > > RV-6 in Melbourne, FL
> > >
> > > >From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Glove box
> > > >Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 13:43:00 -0800
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I am doing my panel, and I would love to use Van's glove box kit, but I
> > > >will need to use one that is about 5/8 inch shorter.
> > > >
> > > >I don't have one I can look at, so I don't know how it is constructed.
> >Can
> > > >the height be easily reduced? Does anyone have pictures of the kit on
> >the
> > > >web, or could post them? Or should I just roll my own. In that case,
> >how
> > > >is the latch done?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >
> > > >Gary LIming
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MSices" <msices(at)megsinet.net> |
Great product, but I need to cut back on my budget a bit:
For Sale:
AOA Sport Angle of Attack system by Proprietary Software Systems. See more
info at http://www.angle-of-attack.com/Default.htm
This unit is brand new in original packaging, never opened or attempted
install. Guaranteed to include everything you would receive if you bought
one new for $890. Will sell for 10% discount at $801 plus $7
shipping/handling. Please contact me off-list if you are interested:
Michael Sices
msices(at)core.com
RV8 Kenosha, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | tapering the wingskins |
Dear Friends
Does anyone have any suggestions or tecniques for tapering the edge of
the wingskins? My first guess is that all van wants you to do is just
knock off the edge lightly, possibly with a sanding block etc..
Any comments would be appreciated
Thank you Shane Summerhays
R-V8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
I bought a used pneumatic rivet squeezer from the Yard a few years ago
for about $200. after 4 weeks it started leaking air and quit squeezing
rivets.
Send the yard an Email message inquiring about a seal for the piston so
i could fix it. They would have nothing of it. They reply was basically.
Send it back, WE will fix it for you.
Short of it, I send it AND had it back within 5 days, no charge !!
I'do business with the yard in a heartbeat again. matter of fact, i
peruse their site on a regular basis.
Gert
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
> Dan,
>
> Finally...an issue I have input on. I am somewhat in the same boat as you. I have been watching the list the last couple of years, and I have finally bought all my tools. As for the vendors...I think Avery, Cleveland, and Brown all sell the same stuff (with the exception of the Avery squeezer). Of the three, Brown seems to have the best prices and has been very easy to deal with (haven't delt with Avery or Cleveland). One option I took that saved me a great deal of money was buying some surplus stuff. There is a place in Wichita called the Yard Store (http://yardstore.com/). They sell new, used, and surplus stuff. Their website really doesn't tell you what they have. You really need to call or go by if you want some deals. They almost always have good used rivet guns under $100, and they will generally beat any other vendor's prices on new stuff (they had a Brown catalog when I was there). Some of the good deals I got include a good used US Tool 3x gun for $89 a!
nd!
> about 400 clecos for $0.23 each (metal-bodied type).
>
> Now if I can only decide which kit to order. (I think I'm leaning toward the
8A over the 7A.)
>
> Scott
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Sorry if this is already been posted, but the FAA has joined the modern age
now with this on-line available N-number search. Follow this link and click
N-number Availability.
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 96 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Subject: | UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal |
Anyone know what would work well to remove the glue from UHMW tape? Some of
the plastic part is curling up and I decided to get rid of it. I pull the
tape off but some glue remained. It doesn't give easily. It doesn't even
pull the paint off.
---
[This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: tapering the wingskins |
If you have the "pre-punched holes kit"..always, always, always smooth the
edges carefully...if you look at the edges carefully, you will see that even
the edges done on a shear will have minute stress risers in them..the
pro=punched are actually verrrrry jagged..that's the way the machiene does
them..look at them unde a mag lenz....wow!..i always use a file, and then
smooth with sandpaper..then run my finger over the edge..if no blood appears,
it good...remember to was all blood off the metal, because IT
corrodes....happy building..by the way, my RV8s is for sale 98-99%
complete..if any one is interisted...jolly in aurora
Shane Summerhays wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Shane Summerhays"
>
> Dear Friends
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions or tecniques for tapering the edge of
> the wingskins? My first guess is that all van wants you to do is just
> knock off the edge lightly, possibly with a sanding block etc..
>
> Any comments would be appreciated
> Thank you Shane Summerhays
>
> R-V8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Gotta throw this in...since imho my search tool kicks the wheel pants off
the FAA's and others':
http://www.rvproject.com/nnumber.jsp
It even lets you search for available N-numbers with your preferred
suffix...
And if you're looking for RVs nearby:
http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RV-List: N numbers
>
> Sorry if this is already been posted, but the FAA has joined the modern
age
> now with this on-line available N-number search. Follow this link and
click
> N-number Availability.
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 96 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Subject: | Re: UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal |
Auto paint shops sell "adhesive removing solvent" for this purpose. It
will take the goo off without damaging your paint. I've used a citrus based
solvent for this too, on other surfaces then paint, but would hesitate to
use anything that I wasn't sure was safe for paint....
Dave Burton,
RV6, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Yeah the early ones had floor mounted brakes. Not sure when they changed to
the overhead design.
W
You talking about the "new" overhead mounted brakes on the -6?
David
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Was wondering why we would want to change from Shell W a proven product that
has saved operators untold amounts of money over the years.
When Shell W was put on the market years ago those that switched to it
achieved longer service life, lower overhaul costs and in the case of the
radial engines were able to get the TBO's increased by as much as 25% a
saving of up to $10,000.00 per engine on the larger twin row radials such as
the R1830's.
If you could see the inside of on engine at tear down that has been run on
Shell W compared to one run on something else I think this would make a
believer out of you.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal |
I just went thru this. The UHMW peels off the adhesive easy, leaving about 3 mils
of the adhesive. I ended up using a heat gun to soften the adhesive, and then
you can peel it up.
It took some of the paint under it though....
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sun, Mar 3, 2002 7:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal
Anyone know what would work well to remove the glue from UHMW tape? Some of
the plastic part is curling up and I decided to get rid of it. I pull the
tape off but some glue remained. It doesn't give easily. It doesn't even
pull the paint off.
---
[This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal |
Look for a product called "Goo Gone". Test it on a small area first to make
sure it doesn't affect your paint.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 4:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal
>
>
> Anyone know what would work well to remove the glue from UHMW
> tape? Some of
> the plastic part is curling up and I decided to get rid of it. I pull the
> tape off but some glue remained. It doesn't give easily. It doesn't even
> pull the paint off.
>
> ---
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
I have no first hand knowledge of the Spruce kits but suggest you also check
Avery Tools (800-652-8379, www.averytools.com) and Clevaland Aircraft Tools
(515-432-6794). Both offer very high quality tool kits designed expressly
for RV building. My experience is that I have never been disappointed with
the quality of any tool from these two suppliers. Can't say as much for some
of the others.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 03/02/02 |
Dan, another site -- one I trust -- is Avery Tools. I bought their RV tool kit
years
ago, and I'm quite satisfied.
http://www.averytools.com
-Joe
> From: DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tool Advice for a New Builder
>
>
> I'm in process of setting up a workshop and hope to start work on an RV-7 by
> Fall. I have all of stationary tools recommended in RV-7 Preview Plans,
> i.e., a bench grinder, 1" belt sander, 30 gal air compressor, band saw and
> drill press. I've been looking through tool catalogs and checking on-line for
> hand tools and am wondering if tool kits offered in Aircraft Spruce and
> Specialty Company 2001 - 2002 catalog are a good deal. They are on p. 466 -
> P/N TP 176RV for $605, and p. 467 - P/N TP176MKB for $795. Does anyone have
> any experience with these kits? Are these reasonably good tools? How about
> the listed TP82 or TP83 rivet guns? I have little experience w/ riveting and
> want to get a reasonably good item. Are these kits a good way to pick up
> many of the required tools to build an RV or should I look elsewhere? Where?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Dan, this tool is way fast! I noticed a couple of anomolies
a. all the numbers returned are 5 digits/letters
b. none of the numbers returned have leading zeros.
Thanks though, John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: N numbers
Gotta throw this in...since imho my search tool kicks the wheel pants off
the FAA's and others':
http://www.rvproject.com/nnumber.jsp
It even lets you search for available N-numbers with your preferred
suffix...
And if you're looking for RVs nearby:
http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RV-List: N numbers
>
> Sorry if this is already been posted, but the FAA has joined the modern
age
> now with this on-line available N-number search. Follow this link and
click
> N-number Availability.
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 96 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | tapering the wing skins |
Are you talking about at the overlap? I did a test piece day before
yesterday with my angle die grinder and 2" relock disk. I can taper to a
knife edge, although that doesn't seem like a real good idea. I'm going
to do some more test pieces before I go after the wing skins. It looks
like Van's wants a longer taper on the underlying sheet and the top
sheet is more of a cosmetic round over.
Ed Holyoke
6qb
Dear Friends
Does anyone have any suggestions or tecniques for tapering the edge of
the wingskins? My first guess is that all van wants you to do is just
knock off the edge lightly, possibly with a sanding block etc..
Any comments would be appreciated
Thank you Shane Summerhays
R-V8
________________________________________________________________________________
John,
a) all the 3 & 4 char "JH"'s must be taken - try something else (e.g. GY)
and you can find other than 5 chars
b) no leading zeroes are allowed in N-numbers. There are some other rules
like no I,O or Q since they can be confused with 1 & 0. Don't know if Dan
implemented all the rules in his search.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> Dan, this tool is way fast! I noticed a couple of anomolies
>
> a. all the numbers returned are 5 digits/letters
>
> b. none of the numbers returned have leading zeros.
>
> Thanks though, John
>
>
> Gotta throw this in...since imho my search tool kicks the
> wheel pants off
> the FAA's and others':
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/nnumber.jsp
>
> It even lets you search for available N-numbers with your preferred
> suffix...
>
> And if you're looking for RVs nearby:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
I have purchased several good quality, used tools from =8CThe Yard=B9 in
Wichita. Their prices were good and on the one occasion that I rec=B9d a tool
I was not satisfied with they replaced it immediately. They also sell some
new tools. They generally publish a monthly list of available tools &
prices.
Contact them at;
THE YARD
725 E CENTRAL
WICHITA KS 67202
(800) 888-8991
From John Veld, RV-6A wings on jig, Kalamazoo, Mi
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
> Dan, this tool is way fast! I noticed a couple of anomolies
>
> a. all the numbers returned are 5 digits/letters
Try something else, like: Search for Available N-Numbers Ending With "1z".
You'll see a handful of 4-digit N-numbers are available. I think what
you're referring to is the general shortage of N-numbers with fewer than 5
digits...yeah, many are already taken.
> b. none of the numbers returned have leading zeros.
This is illegal, at least according to the FAA. I just conform to their
rules. Too bad we can't make our own. 8
)
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
OK, thanks, and Greg too.
I guess JH is a popular pair of initials.
jh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: N numbers
> Dan, this tool is way fast! I noticed a couple of anomolies
>
> a. all the numbers returned are 5 digits/letters
Try something else, like: Search for Available N-Numbers Ending With "1z".
You'll see a handful of 4-digit N-numbers are available. I think what
you're referring to is the general shortage of N-numbers with fewer than 5
digits...yeah, many are already taken.
> b. none of the numbers returned have leading zeros.
This is illegal, at least according to the FAA. I just conform to their
rules. Too bad we can't make our own. 8
)
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Doesn't matter in the search as the FAA doesn't put those i.d.s up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: N numbers
John,
a) all the 3 & 4 char "JH"'s must be taken - try something else (e.g. GY)
and you can find other than 5 chars
b) no leading zeroes are allowed in N-numbers. There are some other rules
like no I,O or Q since they can be confused with 1 & 0. Don't know if Dan
implemented all the rules in his search.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> Dan, this tool is way fast! I noticed a couple of anomolies
>
> a. all the numbers returned are 5 digits/letters
>
> b. none of the numbers returned have leading zeros.
>
> Thanks though, John
>
>
> Gotta throw this in...since imho my search tool kicks the
> wheel pants off
> the FAA's and others':
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/nnumber.jsp
>
> It even lets you search for available N-numbers with your preferred
> suffix...
>
> And if you're looking for RVs nearby:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Autogas and the XP360 |
Listers,
A Lycos search gave me this email from the Glaster list regarding the
use of auto fuel in the XP360. I thought it was interesting, so I'm
posting it to the RV list.
Tim Lewis
-----------------
From http://archives.glastar.org/0106/msg00044.html
-----------------
Re: xp-360
To: (Recipients of 'building-fwf' suppressed)
Subject: Re: xp-360
From: "building-fwf Listmanager"
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 14:14:43 -0700
Reply-To: "Building - Firewall Forward Traditional "
From: "Bill Whitehouse" <w.a.whitehouse(at)worldnet.att.net>
I have an advanced manual on the XP360. The engine is made from
Superior Air Parts and they are PMA'ed parts. These parts when new
are sold for installation on certified engines. The XP360 is a collection
of certified parts for an O360 however I have not seen anything on the
entire engine being certified and therefor no certified type plate on
engine. These engines are being put together by Matituck now a
Teledyne company. Superior Air Parts warrants the engine for two
years after installation or two and one half years after purchase.
Superior's maintenance procedures must be followed and no racing,
aerobatics or other unusual operating conditions.
The XP360 dimensions are: 24.6" high x 33.4" wide x 32.8 inches long
from prop flange to back end of oil filter and weights 287 lbs. No
governor or vacuum pump is mounted and will make the length longer.
Mounting pad for these are available on rear no forward mounting
governors.
The fuel injected model is the same except the height is 24.0 inches
and weights 290 lbs.
There is a page on auto fuel the first paragraph says:
"The XP360 can operate and perform at rated power using unleaded
fuel of at least 91 Octane, leaded or unleaded. Of course the higher the
octane used in the XP360, the greater the detonation margin during
high power and/or hot operation. When operation on unleaded fuel,
Superior recommends using fresh premium, 91-93 Octane, auto fuel
available at major brand, reputable gas stations."
The second paragraph warns of vapor pressure and that carburetor
icing and vapor lock are more likely. And avoid fuel temperatures over
85 deg F and over 12500 feet.
Third paragraph NO ETHANOL or and reformulated blends etc.... Use
ASTM-439 and D4814 specified gasolines. Use alcohol and water
tester is recommended.
Fourth paragraph:
Superior runs in the engine using 100 LL to provide initial lubricating
lead to internal components.(valve guides). 100LL is not required after
shipment but mixing 100LL with autofuel or periodically running 100LL
is encouraged. ( I would run first 25 hours on 100LL).
Fifth paragraph: Is on installation and talks about extra precautions on
sharp bends, and fittings and recommends smooth bend tubing well
insulated and location of boost pump as close to fuel tank as practical.
Continues on vapor lock and vapor pressure potential problems to
avoid. Recommends using Hodges Volatility Tester for a go no
reading on vapor pressure.
Recommends setting timing to 22 deg BTDC for auto fuel as it is faster
burning.
Sixth paragraph:
Operation with auto fuel up through 75% is the same as aviation grade
fuel. All over 75% must be at full rich mixture.
This vapor pressure problem can be difficult. I had a friend who's carb
float would start to sink and start causing rough running due to the
rich mixture every time he crossed the mountains. Just get over the
middle of the rough terrain and the engine would run rough. Carb was
getting hot enough to start to boil the low vapor pressure gas. He had
every thing insulated and shielded with air blowing on them and still
had this problem.
Bill Whitehouse
#5769
To reply: mailto:building-fwf.42585(at)glastarnet.glastar.org
To start a new topic: mailto:building-fwf(at)glastarnet.glastar.org
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Prev by thread: Re: xp-360
Next by thread: XP-360
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Thread
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
> Was wondering why we would want to change from Shell W a proven product
that
> has saved operators untold amounts of money over the years.
>
> When Shell W was put on the market years ago those that switched to it
> achieved longer service life, lower overhaul costs and in the case of the
> radial engines were able to get the TBO's increased by as much as 25% a
> saving of up to $10,000.00 per engine on the larger twin row radials such
as
> the R1830's.
>
> If you could see the inside of on engine at tear down that has been run on
> Shell W compared to one run on something else I think this would make a
> believer out of you.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
Eustace,
When you refer to Shell W does that include the 15W-50, or just the W family
straight weights?
Randy Lervold
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Subject: | UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal |
Adhesive remover solvent worked. What a concept! Thanks to all responses.
Anh
Maryland
>
>Look for a product called "Goo Gone". Test it on a small area first to make
>sure it doesn't affect your paint.
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>> wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 4:13 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: UHMW Tape Adhesive Removal
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone know what would work well to remove the glue from UHMW
>> tape? Some of
>> the plastic part is curling up and I decided to get rid of it. I pull the
>> tape off but some glue remained. It doesn't give easily. It doesn't even
>> pull the paint off.
>>
>> ---
>> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>
>
>---
>[This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
>
>
>
---
[This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Wanted: Another Navaid Autopilot |
A buddy of mine with a Harmon Rocket II wants a Navaid wing leveler and will
buy your unit outright for $100 over what you paid to get it now. If you can
help him out please call him directly.
Ken Coe 925-443-7460 home or 925-980-9267 cell (west coast)
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static... |
> A short piece of rubber fuel line from the auto parts store
> does a fine job of joining the lines.
Yup. When I was doing mine the DAR who was to inspect the plane happened
by -- I showed him the elaborite 4-piece assembly of fittings that I'd come
up with, and asked if he thought I should do that or would maybe just a
short piece of hose work...? He just smiled and pointed at the hose. I used
those little spring-type hose clamps to secure it but the hose is tight
enough on both tubes without them that that's probably even overkill.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Tool Advice for a New Builder |
Judging from the part numbers I believe these are from US Industrial. I bought
such a kit when I started and still use it...but that was before I knew my ABC,
ie Avery, Brown and Cleveland. All subsequent purchases have been from ABC.
I can tell you that they make very good Rivet Guns, this is by far the best part
of the kit. I would probably buy one of these in preference to all others if
the need arose. Please DO check the archives for comments on other tools from
this supplier.
Doug Gray
DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm in process of setting up a workshop and hope to start work on an RV-7 by
> Fall. I have all of stationary tools recommended in RV-7 Preview Plans,
> i.e., a bench grinder, 1" belt sander, 30 gal air compressor, band saw and
> drill press. I've been looking through tool catalogs and checking on-line for
> hand tools and am wondering if tool kits offered in Aircraft Spruce and
> Specialty Company 2001 - 2002 catalog are a good deal. They are on p. 466 -
> P/N TP 176RV for $605, and p. 467 - P/N TP176MKB for $795. Does anyone have
> any experience with these kits? Are these reasonably good tools? How about
> the listed TP82 or TP83 rivet guns? I have little experience w/ riveting and
> want to get a reasonably good item. Are these kits a good way to pick up
> many of the required tools to build an RV or should I look elsewhere? Where?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | neaded: RV-3 Plans info |
Can anyone get to me the instructions for doing the weight and ballance?
I need the wheel moments.
Thanks,
Bruce Meacham
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
09:05:49 AM
Eustace, I saw exactly that a while back. On one stand was an IO-320 with
1600 since major and a prop strike. Its was like new inside, next to it was
an O-360 with 650 hours, it had been running brand X with no additive and
looked like a diesel tractor engine inside. Boy was I sold, the IO-320 had
been religiously maintained with Aeroshell and the recommended additive.
You can bet I'll be doing the same.
Eric
"Eustace Bowhay" (at)matronics.com on 03/03/2002
01:17:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exxon Elite
Was wondering why we would want to change from Shell W a proven product
that
has saved operators untold amounts of money over the years.
When Shell W was put on the market years ago those that switched to it
achieved longer service life, lower overhaul costs and in the case of the
radial engines were able to get the TBO's increased by as much as 25% a
saving of up to $10,000.00 per engine on the larger twin row radials such
as
the R1830's.
If you could see the inside of on engine at tear down that has been run on
Shell W compared to one run on something else I think this would make a
believer out of you.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List: tapering the wingskins |
Shane,
I feathered the overlap edge were the skins met just behind the tank, about
a 1 1/2 inches from the front edge. I feathered the bottom edges of both
skins, using a disk sander at a very slow speed then buffed it with
schotchbrite wheel. By the way I did it on the top skins only
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: neaded: RV-3 Plans info |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Can anyone get to me the instructions for doing the weight and ballance?
> I need the wheel moments.
>
I would recommend you measure to get the stations. The published
stations on my RV-6 were incorrect.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lightweight starters... |
I have almost the same story as Gary with my Sky-Tec starter. 374 hrs. No
problems. Odyssey battery. No components changed on the starter yet.
O-320, 8.5:1 comp. All original and very satisfied.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Mark-
>
>First of all, the manufacturer is Sky-Tec so people can actually search
>properly.
>
>The Sky-Tec starter in my 6A has 500 hrs on it and just a week ago I
>replaced
>the solenoid on the side of the starter for $40. A good deal as that
>appears
>to be the only thing that ages on them (I'll see if brushes are the next
>thing but for now they're good). I think it is a super unit and I would
>get
>the same setup if I were to build again.
>
>The great thing is that these starters really crank if you have a good
>battery. I recently replaced my 23 lb Concord RG25 battery with the 14 lb
>Odyssey PC680, which you can get on the web for $100 or less ($70 less than
>Van's), and boy does it turn things over sprightly. You can taxi on this
>starter.
>
>-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: | Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
I was able to reach book value for static RPM 2150 on the Sensenich
metal -70CM 79 inch, for the 160 HP lycoming RV-4 (30 inch MP, 58
degrees OAT, 50 foot MSL, full rich, Graphic engine monitor showing all
cylinders ok) verified with my optical tach.
The cheap Chineese Vans tach was off by 260 to 310 RPM depending where
you were on th scale. Also, the elapsed timee was measuring at 1/3 to
1/4 the real time. I had to wait untill this past weekend to get
daylight to try my optical tach. A digital tach is in my future.
Side thought......could this be (One of) the reasons why there is such a
variance in reported TBO of A/C engines ?? Some engines "need" overhaul
at 12 to 1600 hrs. while some go to 22 to 2600 or more hrs bevore TBO.
There are many reasons for this variance, but could crappie tachs (and
recording time faults) be part of the equation ??.. Back to work
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Subject: | Navaid Devices Availability |
>
> A buddy of mine with a Harmon Rocket II wants a Navaid wing leveler and will
> buy your unit outright for $100 over what you paid to get it now. If you can
> help him out please call him directly.
Is Navaid Devices having problems of some sort? I was kinda counting on using
one.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Autogas and the XP360 |
> This vapor pressure problem can be difficult. I had a friend who's carb
> float would start to sink and start causing rough running due to the
> rich mixture every time he crossed the mountains. Just get over the
> middle of the rough terrain and the engine would run rough. Carb was
> getting hot enough to start to boil the low vapor pressure gas. He had
> every thing insulated and shielded with air blowing on them and still
> had this problem.
I think I read the culprit to the problem right away. Seems to me that I
read in the STCs I had on my C172 and AA-5A Cheetah that the altitude limit
for auto gas was 10K feet. I've flown over the mountains in the east on
numerous trips and never had problems with vapor locking; but, I never had
to get above 10K feet. In fact, I can never remember having vapor locking
problems in the air for the 16 years I've been using auto gas in my
airplanes. I'm not flying above 10K feet, either. In the west, it's a
given that some flying is going to be over the altitude limits. If that be
the case, I don't find it unusual that the user of auto gas in those
extremes is going to encounter problems with auto gas, at times.
Even though the auto gas STC, and the use of auto gas in our homebuilts, is
a great thing for most of us, it is not meant for all of us. It does have
its limitations. I guess one could experiment with a mix of 100LL and
autogas to see what one could do to improve on the limits; but, the limits
are there for us to be aware of. When we live within those limits, it's a
cheap alternative to fueling our steeds.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Navaid Devices Availability |
The only problem at Navaid is not being able to produce enough units to
quickly meet demand. Navaid is a small operation that has been swamped
by the demand created by the RV phenomenon. Last I heard delivery for
the control head was about six months with the servo being available in
a few weeks.
Best advise is to call to get current delivery schedule.
Sometimes success can breed its own problems.... :-)
Sam Buchanan
===========================
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>
> >
> > A buddy of mine with a Harmon Rocket II wants a Navaid wing leveler and will
> > buy your unit outright for $100 over what you paid to get it now. If you can
> > help him out please call him directly.
>
> Is Navaid Devices having problems of some sort? I was kinda counting on using
> one.
>
> -Joe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Engelmechanical(at)cs.com |
Please remove me from your list
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | Navaid Devices Availability |
I got mine about a month ago... exactly 7 months from date of order. I gave
them a credit card number and forgot about it until it showed up 7 months
later.
If you must have one soon, they told me that they can give you the servo
part that you need for your wing.. No waiting on that part (at least thats
the way it was a few months back).
Jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Devices Availability
The only problem at Navaid is not being able to produce enough units to
quickly meet demand. Navaid is a small operation that has been swamped
by the demand created by the RV phenomenon. Last I heard delivery for
the control head was about six months with the servo being available in
a few weeks.
Best advise is to call to get current delivery schedule.
Sometimes success can breed its own problems.... :-)
Sam Buchanan
===========================
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>
> >
> > A buddy of mine with a Harmon Rocket II wants a Navaid wing leveler and
will
> > buy your unit outright for $100 over what you paid to get it now. If
you can
> > help him out please call him directly.
>
> Is Navaid Devices having problems of some sort? I was kinda counting on
using
> one.
>
> -Joe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: tapering the wing skins |
Unless Van's has changed something since the old slow build kits, that
tapering you are referring to is only supposed to be in a small triangular
are at the front corner where the inboard and outboard skins overlap at the
leading edge skin.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: neaded: RV-3 Plans info |
You need to measure them yourself, aircraft level.
Here's a bit of info:
Datum: 50 " forward of wing leading edges.
Design C.G. range: 18% to 27% of wing cord, or 9.72" to 14.58" from leading
edge (add 50" to both to use datum).
Example in my builder's manual:
Left main wheel: 50.5" aft of datum
Right main wheel: 50.25"
Tail wheel: 216.5"
Oil: 30"
Pilot: 81"
Baggage: 112.5"
Example: Aircraft weighed empty in level flight attitude:
Left main wheel: 360 lbs @ 50.5" aft of datum
Right main wheel: 359 lbs @ 50.25"
Tail wheel: 36 lbs @ 216.5"
giving a gross C.G. of 44014 / 755 = 58.3".
Add pilot and fuel to get into C.G. range.
Finn
Bruce Meacham wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
>
> Can anyone get to me the instructions for doing the weight and ballance?
> I need the wheel moments.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce Meacham
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: neaded: RV-3 Plans info |
Sorry, forgot two pieces of info you'll need:
Fuel (wing): 58.5"
Fuel (fuselage): 53".
But you'd do well to verify all these locations while you have the the aircraft
on the scales:
Weigh it empty. Then with oil. Then with pilot, then with full fuel.
You'll need to verify mail wheel location at each measurement as they may move
with added weight.
Finn
Finn Lassen wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> You need to measure them yourself, aircraft level.
> Here's a bit of info:
> Datum: 50 " forward of wing leading edges.
> Design C.G. range: 18% to 27% of wing cord, or 9.72" to 14.58" from leading
> edge (add 50" to both to use datum).
> Example in my builder's manual:
> Left main wheel: 50.5" aft of datum
> Right main wheel: 50.25"
> Tail wheel: 216.5"
> Oil: 30"
> Pilot: 81"
> Baggage: 112.5"
>
> Example: Aircraft weighed empty in level flight attitude:
> Left main wheel: 360 lbs @ 50.5" aft of datum
> Right main wheel: 359 lbs @ 50.25"
> Tail wheel: 36 lbs @ 216.5"
> giving a gross C.G. of 44014 / 755 = 58.3".
> Add pilot and fuel to get into C.G. range.
>
> Finn
>
> Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
> >
> > Can anyone get to me the instructions for doing the weight and ballance?
> > I need the wheel moments.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bruce Meacham
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
Subject: | Re: Navaid Devices Availability |
I ordered mine on Friday. They quoted me 18 weeks for delivery. I
understand they are pretty accurate in their delivery estimates. They don't
ask for money until 2 weeks prior to shipping.
Russ
HRII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: | Angle of Attack Theory Article (Long) |
I have found very little on the operational theory on the AOA devices
-- lots of testomonial, nothing in the text books. There has been some
activity on the three AOA sites on the web that are very informative.
There is even a interactive web based video presentation (anamation) on
the theory of AOA. Here is a snip from a Bruce Meacham write-up that is
useful. (Doing this so it makes it into the archives for future
e-searching.)
.....................................
Hanging on Alpha
By Bruce Meacham
Aircraft stay in the heavens for one reason; the wings push
molecules of air down. Angle of attack (Ill call it Alpha from now on)
is the angle at which a wing meets the wind that its going through. It
directly relates to the amount of air a wing can push.
An airfoil is only efficient in a narrow range of alpha.
For many popular airfoils the range is around +/- 12 degrees. Above or
below this, lift does not increase as rapidly as drag, and the airfoil
is no longer effectively producing lift. Its important to know that
the force the wind imparts on the wing increases as a square of the
velocity.
FL = alpha k
v2
Equation 1
Here k compensate for the density of air and the characteristics of the
airfoil.
We can re-arrange this for alpha as
alpha = FL / (k
v2)
Equation 2
It can be inferred from Equation 2 that at large velocities
(cruise) the amount of alpha required to keep the aircraft
aloft is quite small. As speed decreases, to maintain the same amount
of lifting force the wings must increase alpha. The
slower you go, the higher the alpha. Till eventually the wings alpha
goes beyond the region of best performance and the
wing stalls.
What happens in a 60-degree bank? Lets look at Equation 2
again. In a level 60-degree bank the aircraft
experiences twice the effective gravity force, so the FL term in the
equation doubles. What does that do to alpha? Alpha
too must double to compensate! This is why stall speed increases under
increased G load.
state of the airfoil in any given flight scenario. Stall
speed, best glide, L/D Max, best rate of climb and best angle of climb
are all constants of angle of attack, not air speed. At
higher density altitudes or G loading all these speeds change, but not
alpha.
Another compelling argument for alpha is that at very low
airspeed the Airspeed Indicator is less accurate while the
angle of attack indicator only increases accuracy.
The best kept pilot secret: The elevator is a direct alpha
control! Its just that simple. Pull back: alpha goes up, lift
goes up and speed goes down, pull forward the opposite happens.
So what does this mean to the Pilot In Command? What are the
really big benefits in practical application?
Increase Approach accuracy. Alpha isnt power dependant, unlike
velocity. For this reason, its dramatically easier to
maintain an alpha vs. airspeed while the power is changing. Once alpha
is stabilized on best glide, approach is simplified
to controlling sink rate with throttle. The result is a rock solid
approach that makes any pilot look like a test pilot.
Overall Safety: When the navy implemented alpha techniques for their
carrier born aircraft they saw a 50% decrease in
accidents within a year. That alone says something about the overall
increased safety margin this system enables.
Base-Final stall avoidance: A stall-spin event on or around base to
final is a real accident threat in any aircraft. This stage
of flight is near stall speed, near the ground and under heavy pilot
workloads. The desire to lineup an overshot runway can
lead to high bank angles and increased G loading. More Gs means more
alpha and stall The alpha gauge is a direct
audible and visual warning of this threat.
Best Glide: Best glide is much more easy to hit and maintain using
alpha. Its also correct at all density altitudes. In an
emergency this relatively small increase in performance could mean life
or death.
Airspeed Indicator backup: In the event of an IAS failure, the alpha
gauge makes a very capable backup.
Hypothetical Q&A:
What about flaps? Dont they effectively change the wings
alpha? Yes they do, so any good alpha indicator should
sense flap position so they are properly calibrated for both wing
configurations.
Can you fly around on Alpha alone, why do I even need an
airspeed indicator? Well quite frankly, yes, you could
very safely fly on alpha alone. Of course youll never know how fast
youre actually moving though the air. At any rate;
91.205 states that the airspeed indicator is required equipment.
Where is the alpha display best mounted? I pedestal mounted
my alpha display right on the glare shield. Its a small
display with a tiny visual footprint, .25x1. On final its directly
under the numbers in my immediate periphery vision. I
dont ever have to move my visual focus away from the runway once Ive
turned final. If you must panel mount, place it very
high and near the center of the scan.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Autogas and the XP360 |
Very well put Jim. In fact our manual spells out not to exceed 12,500 feet
and fuel temps over 85*F. We also encourage a blend of auto fuel and 100LL
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears [mailto:sears(at)searnet.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Autogas and the XP360
> This vapor pressure problem can be difficult. I had a friend who's carb
> float would start to sink and start causing rough running due to the
> rich mixture every time he crossed the mountains. Just get over the
> middle of the rough terrain and the engine would run rough. Carb was
> getting hot enough to start to boil the low vapor pressure gas. He had
> every thing insulated and shielded with air blowing on them and still
> had this problem.
I think I read the culprit to the problem right away. Seems to me that I
read in the STCs I had on my C172 and AA-5A Cheetah that the altitude limit
for auto gas was 10K feet. I've flown over the mountains in the east on
numerous trips and never had problems with vapor locking; but, I never had
to get above 10K feet. In fact, I can never remember having vapor locking
problems in the air for the 16 years I've been using auto gas in my
airplanes. I'm not flying above 10K feet, either. In the west, it's a
given that some flying is going to be over the altitude limits. If that be
the case, I don't find it unusual that the user of auto gas in those
extremes is going to encounter problems with auto gas, at times.
Even though the auto gas STC, and the use of auto gas in our homebuilts, is
a great thing for most of us, it is not meant for all of us. It does have
its limitations. I guess one could experiment with a mix of 100LL and
autogas to see what one could do to improve on the limits; but, the limits
are there for us to be aware of. When we live within those limits, it's a
cheap alternative to fueling our steeds.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
> That's me. I've not flown the LRI. I have, however, spent a lot of
> time reading the patent, it's mathematical description, and the
> approximate mathematical underpinnings that used to be published on
> the LRI web site. Everything I saw led me to suspect that the LRI will
> give reasonably consistent readings in 1 G flight (good for final
> approach energy management), but in higher G flight (tight base to
> final turns, for example) will show more "lift reserve" (stall margin)
> than actually exists. If that's the case, pilots need to know about it,
> because it could be dangerous. It would also call in to question the
> LRI web site's claim of "100% Stall Protection."
OK. A previous post on this topic by Bernie Kerr mentioned some flt testing
with the Proprietary Systems AOA device, but just estimating g-load.
Another post mentioned testing the LRI device at different wts.
For anyone interested in flt testing to evaluate something like the LRI (or
for other purposes) if you have an accurate stall speed (Calibrated Air
Speed, not the inaccurate Indicated Air Speed we read on the gage at 1 g
stall condition) for a known weight, then you can accurately calculate the
stall speed for any other weight you are interested in, either higher or
lower. I did this in the Air Force when studying what "g" I could (or
needed to) pull in a given fighter at a given speed with variable weights
(heavy with bombs and external tanks inbound to target, can't pull as many
g's; much ligher after drop bombs and maybe the tanks, and can pull more g's
at same speed when fighting your way back home - or pull same (read
"required") g at lower speed.) I also do this for Cessna's I fly so I know
stall speed at weights lighter than "max gross wt" which is all the POH
gives.
What seems to be wanted at this time in the case of the LRI is to pull some
"g" until get accelerated stall at some speed and some weight, and see if
LRI shows close to the expected "stall" indication.
- Without g-meter, we can start at 1.5 times stall speed or higher and
use attitude indicator to bank 60 degrees, then add power to hold airspeed
and do a nice smooth level turn (hold altitude) - we will be pulling 2 g's.
- If we then reduce power and reduce speed slowly, our 2 g's loading
will stay same, but our angle of attack will increase, until we stall at 2
g's. The speed at this point of stall, being the same AOA as in a level flt
1 g stall, should be square root of 2 g's times our known level flt stall
speed, adjusted for weight (see below). Square root of 2 is 1.414.
For any and all weights different from the known weight at a known stall
CAS:
- New 1 g, level stall speed (CAS), let's call it Vsub2, = Vsub 1
(known stall speed at one particular wt, let's call it Wt sub1) times square
root of the common fraction (Wt sub2/Wt sub 1).
-- So, if Wt 2 is higher than Wt 1, the stall speed will be higher,
& vice versa (common sense check)
If the person doing the flt testing has a g-meter and he feels it is
accurate (we swing them on an 18" arm on a rotating table in our Air Force
instrument shops to verify accuracy), then, for any bank angle (no longer
tied to that 60 degree "known point" thing), you will note the g-meter &
indicated air speed readings, and the LRI reading, when you reach the
accelerated stall at, say 3, 3.5, or 4 g's.
- Then you land, correct IAS to CAS (I've always assumed no significant
correction at the higher airspeeds - because the charts always show the
error is most below final approach speed and negligable above that - but
just now realized that the error may be mostly due to AOA, which means you
may have the same 5, 6, or more knot error at stall AOA, at any IAS. Don't
have a clue how to calibrate for that!)
- Anyway, if you assume your IAS at the accelerated stall is = to CAS,
then,
1) correct for wt (1 g stall speed for that day's wt = "book" stall
speed (CAS) times sq rt of (Wt sub today divided by Wt sub "book"), then,
2) predicted stall speed at the observed 'g' loading = 1) above
times sq rt of 'g' loading.
Regardless of the errors in IAS at the accelerated stall point, this
methodology should be close enough to evaluate accuracy of the LRI device's
indications in an accelerated stall.
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Autogas and the XP360 |
> Very well put Jim. In fact our manual spells out not to exceed 12,500 feet
> and fuel temps over 85*F. We also encourage a blend of auto fuel and
100LL
>
I knew I was forgetting something. I have to admit that I'm getting older;
so, my mind isn't as sharp as it used to be. I forgot the temperature!
I've operated my airplanes at temps around 100F with no problems in the air.
Again, I didn't go over 10K feet. However, I must remember the altitude is
in density altitude (correct me if I'm wrong), not MSL, for it to make sense
to me. Bob refers to his STC saying 12,500 feet and 85F. That's really
getting up there compared to my 10K feet figure and could actually be
stretching the limits on those really warm days; but, throw in the density
altitude and one blows the dickens out of the altitude limit, if one isn't
really careful. Although I don't pay as much attention to it in our low
lander country, I think I've seen density altitude changes of as much as 3K,
or more, feet on a hot day.
It would be easy to pop over 12,500 feet density altitude on a really hot
day when crossing the western mountain areas. For that matter, it would be
easy to pop over 12,500 feet on a cool day! Whew! You got some mighty big
pieces of rock out there! One tends to forget that when one lives where land
is 1000' MSL, or less. I landed at Boulder, CO a couple of times at one
mile high, which is an airport higher than I usually fly at. :-) At that
point, elevation started taking notice for fuel pressures, etc. Go over a
tall mountain, grap an updraft that pushes one a little higher, and bingo!
The gas bubbles! I guess I'd better stay away from those mountains. I'm
too cheap to buy enough 100LL to keep the bubbles away. :-)
BTW, for those of you who are interested in this discussion. Some keep one
tank for auto gas and one tank for 100LL. I don't do that; but, it is
worth considering if one does fly at higher altitudes. Another thing about
it is the fact that we're quickly getting to the time period each year when
the temps rise faster than the refineries can get the gas switched from
winter to summer blends. Yeah, autos can vapor lock, too. When that time
period comes around, it's easier for our engines to vapor lock on the
ground. For me, it's always been with fast turnarounds; so, I have to wait
a little longer for things to cool down enough for the gas to be usable
again. It's no big deal; but, it's something we auto gas users should be
aware of as those springtime temps start to bounce in. I just sit back and
socialize a tad longer. I'm pretty good at that. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
What is required for the Pitot Static/Transponder checks for VFR.
My brand new Garmin GTX 327 failed the transponder check. To be fair to
Garmin, so did every other transponder at the airport. After sending back
the transponder test set (twice) and the Garmin failing two more times, what
is the minimum requirement for the transponder to be legal VFR, I understand
there is a different test for IFR.
My transponder failed the SOS test (whatever that is). I sent it back to
the avionics shop that I bought it from and they tested it with two
different test sets and report that the transponder works perfect (to
include the SOS tests). Is it possible that I could have mounted the
antenna or transponder in such a way that everything works but the SOS?
FWIW my transponder is the single most expensive (except for the engine)
piece of equipment on the airplane. For something that is not even needed
for flight to cost so much, and then standard 1965 test equipment can not
even determine if it works, is amazing. I wonder if the ATC can even pick
it up. How many times has ATC failed to receive a transponder that was
properly working, just to find out that their equipment doesn't work
properly?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
RV-List Digest Server
Subject: | Timing Slick Mags (long) |
Someday, you can retrieve this from the archives when you need it. I
printed a copy for my engine book. The link where I got this may not
exist in the future. Doing it this way(via RV list) makes it into the RV
List archives for posterity...
(Keywords) Slick Mag Mags mags slick engine timing magneto magnetos
time timed points
Slick Handling
The following article written by Chris Maida was published in the
September 1995 issue of Light Plane Maintenance. It is
retyped here without the graphics due to poor reproduction quality.
Removing, re-installing and retiming Slick mags isn't as easy as one-two
three, but it's not rocket science, either
Today's mission is to remove and re-install a set of Slick mags from an
0-320 Lycoming in a Cessna 172. If your situation is
like most owners, your mags are probably coming off because it's time
for the required 500-hour inspection. Yes that's right
in addition to the standard 100-hour external inspection, Slick requires
500- and 1000-hour internal ones. If that's news to
you, your not alone. It seems many owners and mechanics are equally
uninformed.
Both inspections required the mags to be removed from the engine. A
variety of internal components must be checked for
wear and serviceability. Obviously, any parts found overly worn, broken,
or showing signs of malfunction will have to be
replaced.(Although you may wind up replacing the entire mag. The fact
is, if your mags need any parts other than a set of
points and condenser, you're probably better off just getting a new one
from Slick. Replacement parts are very expensive,
whereas the mags themselves are not. A new #4300 series unit can be
bought for about $375.00, or even less from a number
of dealers in Trade-A-Plane San-Val, for example, will sell you a Slick
4301 mag for $322.95, Provided you send them a
serviceable core [San-Val Discount, 800-423-3281]. A repair job on the
same mag, if some parts are needed, plus labor,
can easily be that amount.)
Though it may be tempting to ignore these inspections, it's not a good
idea. One reason is that it's against FAR's. Another is
the common misconception that if the engine starts and the mag drop
during run-up is within limits, the mag won't need any
servicing. A wrong, and possibly deadly assumption. Magnetos usually
fail during flight , not during run-up. This is not an
unreasonable occurrence considering that's where they're operating most
of the time. If Slick calls for a 500-hour inspection,
it's because they know that certain components are near the end of their
service life. In fact, many people are surprised to
find that parts are indeed worn out when the inspections are done.
No matter what your reasons for removing the mag, it has to come off.
And whatever goes into it's place will have to be
retimed. This is one operation where owners are definitely not
encouraged to participate by FAA. In fact, aside from
checking timing, FAA considers mags and mag timing so critical that only
A&P's are allowed to do the removal,
re-installation and timing. Fortunately, though, if your mechanic is
willing to supervise and inspect your work (and sign it
off), there's nothing to stop you from tackling the job yourself.
Having said all that, let's take a look at what's involved in removing,
reinstalling and re-timing a Slick magneto.
The Tools Needed
Removing the mags, once the engine's internals are correctly positioned,
is really just a simple disassem-bly job. It's getting
the mags back onto your engine and properly timed that's the interesting
part. But that's not a complicated process, either. In
fact, it will only take about an hour for removal and about an hour and
a half for re-installation.
Only two special tools are needed for the job. The first is Slicks
Timing pin, #T-118. You can get one from any shop that
overhauls Slick Mags. Or call Slick at 815-965-4700. They'll drop one in
an envelope for you free of charge. Your A&P
might even have a extra one kicking around in his toolbox. If you're
getting a new mag, Slick always packs a timing pin along
with it. The T-118 is used to set the mag's distributor gear position so
it's ready to be installed on the engine.
The second special tool is a magneto timing box to time the mags to your
engine. You can buy one from a number of tool
suppliers in Trade-A-Plane for about $40.00. Or borrow one from a
generous A&P you know. Either way, the other tools
are just the standard ones.
Getting Prepped
Whether the engine's a Lycoming or Continental, the process is basically
the same. Check that the magnetos are both
switched off and the mixture and throttle controls are at lean cutoff
and idle positions, respectively. Then remove the top
cowl. Visually check that both P leads are, in fact, still connected to
the magnetos. The P-lead and the ground wire are the
only wires connected to the mag other than the thick ignition wires, if
the mags are the impulse coupling type. If the mags are
the retard breaker type, there's another wire that connects the breakers
to the starting circuit. Each mag should have all of
these wires connected. Even then, to be on the safe side always treat
the prop as if the engine could still start as soon as the
prop is budged. To some, this may seem a bit overcautious. But because a
mag is connected on the outside, doesn't mean it's
connected on the inside. Besides, it's just as easy to move the prop
while staying out of it's arc of travel, as it is to be in the
arc and in potential danger.
An engine is timed at a specific number of degrees BTC (Before Top
Center). It fires the spark plugs for #1 cylinder at this
point. Once this is set, the timing on all the other cylinders follows
suit. So finding out what the timing number is for your
engine is the next step. This information is in the engine's manual and
stamped on its data plate. The data plato on Lycomings
is located on the lower right hand side of the engine. But unless your
really good with a mirror, it's necessary to remove the
bottom cowl to read it. Continentals are easier because they have their
data plate on the upper right side of the engine. For
our O-320, the timing mark is at 25 degrees BTC. It's usually a number
between 20 and 25.
Next locate the two timing marks. On Lycomings, one or the marks is on
the outer edge of the starter flywheel, which is
mounted to the prop. Look for a line on the outer edge of the flywheel
with the timing number stamped next to it. The other
mark is the top center seam of the two engine case halves.
Continentals are not that simple. The timing marks could be in a number
of places or not be there at all. I guess it's the price
you pay for having an easy to read data plate. Many Continentals have a
bronze, safety wired, one-inch plug that's right
behind the prop, on the left side of the engine case. A timing mark is
stamped on the gear which is easily visible after the
plug is removed. Rotate the engine slowly to give the oil a chance to
run off the gear and reveal the marks. Don't be
concerned if the number you see is 23 and there's a line marked 25 and
another marked 20. Just extrapolate where 23 will be
between them and use that. The other mark is the center line of the
hole.
If your not lucky enough to have a Continental with a timing plug, it's
time to start hunting, On Some models, the timing mark
is on a pulley on the accessory case at the rear of the engine. Other
models have different locations. Still other models have
no mark at all. A degree wheel must be mounted on the prop spinner and
synchronized with the No. 1 piston's Top Dead
Center (TDC) position. The BTC is figured from there to get a timing
mark. You must check the maintenance manual for your
particular model engine to find out where your marks are, if you don't
already know. Or maybe ask your A&Phe'll probably
know just by looking at it. If he starts laughing when you ask him,
you've probably got the one without marks.
Setting Up The Engine
Once the timing marks are located, the next step is to line them up. Do
this by first finding the No. 1 cylinder. On a Lycoming,
No. 1 is the front cylinder on the right side of the engine, viewed
facing the engine from the front of the plane (i.e., looking
back towards the tail). For Continentals, No. 1 is always the right rear
cylinder. Or just look an the engine. Both makes have
every cylinder's number right on the engine case.
Once you locate No.1, remove the top spark plug and lay it on top of the
cylinder. Then put your finger over the plug hole
and rotate the prop in the direction of normal rotation. Remember to
stay out of the prop's arc of travel. As the No. 1 piston
comes up on its compression stroke, it will force air out of the open
plug hole. Listen and feel for this air pressure. When it
starts to bleed by your finger, forget the piston and watch for the
timing mark to come into view. As soon as you see it , stop.
Move the prop the rest of the way into alignment by lightly tapping the
trailing edge of the prop blade with the palm of your
hand. In this way, bring the moving timing mark to align exactly with
the fixed timing mark. Do this slowly. If you go past the
fixed mark, you can't just tap the prop back a little. You will lose
proper internal alignment due to gear lash. You must come
up on the mark when moving in direction of rotation. If you do go past
it, move the prop blade back about an eighth of a turn
and come up on the mark again. Also, if you have an impulse-coupling
type mag (usually there's only one), the prop must first
be moved forward, past the fixed mark, until you hear the impulse
coupling pop. Then move the prop back an eighth of a turn
and come up onto the mark. Be careful not to go too far back or you'll
engage the coupling again. If you don'' know if you
have an impulse-coupled mag or not, just go past the mark and listen for
the pop or snap sound as the coupling slips and
spins the mag. No pop means no impulse coupling (or a defective one, in
which case you'll probably removing the mag
because the engine won't start).
Mag Removal
Once the timing marks are perfectly aligned, the mags can be removed.
You may want to put a sign on the prop blade
warning people not to move it, especially if the plane's going to be
left unattended for a while.
Then, pick a mag and remove the three screws that hold the ignition
harness cap on. Put an alignment mark on the cap to
show which end is up and make it easier to correctly position it during
reassembly. The cap must go back onto the mag
properly orientated. Once free, move the cap out of the way as much as
possible. Then disconnect the P-lead and the other
wire or wires from the mag. It's true that once you remove the P-lead,
the mag is on or "hot." It's still safe, though, because
the ignition harness cap has been removed. (Besides, what are you doing
moving the prop, anyway?)
Note how the magneto is positioned on the engine. It will go back in at
about the same angle, in relation to the surrounding
parts. On the Cessna 172 with the O-320 E2D, for example, U use the
vacuum pump as my reference point. It's conveniently
located right between both magnetos. Some mechanics like to scribe a
small line from the mag mounting flange to the
accessory case as a reference mark.
Remove the two nuts, lock washers and clamps located at the base of the
mag that secure it to the engine. A ?" open end
wrench will do the job (a long, locking extension and a universal socket
make this a whole lot easier). Usually, the nuts will
not have enough room to come off the engine stud unless you move the mag
off the engine case a little. If the mag has an
impulse coupling, there will be about a one-inch thick base plate
between the mag and the engine case. Be sure not to disturb
this plate. If it breaks loose from the engine case, even a little,
remove the plate, once the mag is off, and reinstall it with a
new gasket. (Any motion of the impulse base plate usually damages the
gasket, which means you'll be back doing this all
again just to change the gasket. Deal with it now if you have to.)
Once the mag's hardware is removed, carefully remove the mag from the
engine. Handle it gently. There are two rubber
bushings that are on the shaft end, inside the engine. This set of
bushings rests in a oval-shaped steel retainer. If handled
roughly, they will fall out of the retainer and into your accessory
case, completely ruining your day. Being rubber, they can't
be retrieved with a magnet, thus they are not easy to remove from the
case. Other than disassembling the engine, the only
other way is to fish around the case for hours trying to catch them with
a grabbing tool of some sort.
Once you've carefully removed the magneto, look into the accessory case.
Hopefully, and usually, the bushings are still in the
retainer. Carefully remove the bushings and lay them safely aside. Then,
mark each mag left or right so they are not swapped
when reinstalled. If new ones are to be installed, look at the data
plate that's riveted to the mag's side. Get the model and
serial number. Also, find the box market "ROT" for rotation. It will
have a "R" or a "L" stamped in it. Note this info to know
which mag goes into which access hole during re-installation.
Clean all the old gasket from the engine case. You want a clean, dry
gasket surface for the new gasket. Don't let anything fall
into the case opening. Stuffing a clean rag into the hole will help.
Remove the other magneto in the same way. If the lock
washers are the split ring type, they can be used again. Otherwise, get
new ones. Always use a new gasket.
Setting Up The Mags
When the magnetos are ready to go back onto the engine, they have to be
positioned to fire on No. 1 cylinder. So, with mag in
hand, look at the mag's data plate and find its rotation direction.
Armed with this vital info, go to the top of the mag where the wiring
harness attaches. Looking down on the top of Slick
mags, you will see two holes in the distributor block. One is marked
"L", the other, "R". On a mag that has a "L" stamped on
it, insert the No. T-118 timing pin into the hole marked "L". (If the
people at Slick make this any easier, I'll be out of a job.)
Then gently and slowly rotate the drive gear, while trying to gently
slip the timing pin deeper into the hole. When the pin
fully seats in its timing hole, the mag will no longer turn. Don't force
it. The distributor gear is now correctly positioned and
ready to be installed.
Leave the timing pin in the mag until it's mounted on the engine. The
pin will prevent it from turning during installation. But
be careful not to turn or put pressure on the drive gear with the timing
pin installed. It will screw up parts in the mag. If
you've got two mags going back on, set up the other one after this one
is mounted.
Installing The Mags
Before installing the mags, check to see that the engine's timing marks
are still lined up. Some bonehead might have turned
the prop while you were gone. If it has been moved, remove the rags and
reposition the timing marks as you did before. It
doesn't matter that the mags are out. If all's well, remove one rag from
the access hole.
Then reinstall the two rubber bushings into their retainer. You may want
to give them some incentive to stay in place by
putting some grease in the retainer and on the bushings. Note that the
bushings have a squared edge and a rounded edge the
rounded edge faces out.
Be sure you have the correct mag for the access hole you're working on.
Next, look a the angle of the retainer in the engine.
The magneto must be orientated the same way for the mag'' drive gear to
slip between the bushings. Don'' try to move the
mag's' drive gear for alignment. The timing pin will prevent it from
turning. Instead, rotate the entire magneto in your hand so
it's properly oriented. Remember how the mag was positioned in regards
to the vacuum pump or whatever reference point
you used. That should give you the proper orientation.
Slip a new gasket onto the mag and then carefully install the mag into
the engine case. Don't force it in. When the mag's drive
gear is properly lined up with the bushings, it will just slip into
place. The drive gear and bushings are aligned and fully
engaged when the mag is fully seated against the engine case. Slip on
the hold-down clamps, lock washers and nuts.
Remember, to get the nuts on the mag, it may need to be moved back off
the engine case a little. Don't go too far or the drive
gear will be disengaged from the retainer and bushings. Thread the nuts
down, hand tight. Then remove the timing pin.
Tighten the nuts so the mag can be rotated about its base, but is still
held snug against the engine case. Set up the other mag
with the T-118 and install it in the same way. Don't worry about fine
tuning the timing yet. Get both mags in first. Don't hook
up any wires or harnesses yet, either.
Fine Tuning The Timing
Once both mags are mounted, get the timing box. Hook up the box's black
wire to ground, which is anything metal on the
engine. The other wires go to the mag's P-lead terminal, one wire per
mag. Then switch on the box and slowly rotate the
mag. The timing box will indicate that the mag's points have just opened
and the mag is in its properly timed position by the
light going on or off, and/or an audible buzzer sounding, depending on
your model timing box. Do the same to the other mag.
The next step is to check the timing job. Do this by moving the prop in
reverse rotation for about an eighth of a turn. Then, by
tapping the prop with your hand, as you did earlier, move the prop until
the timing box again indicates the points have
opened. Now check the engine's timing marks. Are they aligned?
Usually one magneto goes off before the other one by a fraction of a
rotation of the prop, so don't be concerned. If the marks
are aligned, continue tapping the prop until the other mag goes off and
check the marks again. It is very normal for the mags
to go off at slightly different times and have the timing marks aligned.
If a magneto went off too early or late, rotate the mag
slightly. Don't be concerned that you may rotate the mag in the wrong
direction. Then do the timing check again. Is it better or
worse? Turn the offending mag accordingly. Do this until the mags are
properly timed to the engine. How far you want to go
with this is up to you. If you want both of them to go off at exactly
the same time, so be it.
When the mags are set, tighten down the nuts, locking the mags firmly in
place. The recommended torque for the nuts is 17
ft/lbs maximum. If you go for gorilla torque it, the mounting flange may
be damaged (or it may even break) and the mag must
be removed and replaced.
Then check your work one more time. If all's well, remove the timing
box. Close up the timing plug and safety-wire it, if you
are working on a so equipped Continental. Put a little anti-seize on the
threads and reinstall the No. 1 top spark plug you
removed earlier. Torque it to 30 to 35 ft/lbs and attach the ignition
lead.
Hook up the P-leads, other wires and ignition harness caps, in that
order. Be sure not to over-torque the P-lead nut. To quote
a Slick service tip, "it is extremely important to observe the 13 to 15
in/lb torque limit when tightening down the P-lead nut
onto the condenser stud." Exceeding the limit will break the condenser,
making it unsafe and requiring replacement (which
means going through all this again). Install the top cowl and lock it in
place with about half the fasteners.
Wrapping It Up
Remove all tools and such out of the way and recowl the engine. Fire it
up and do the standard run-up checks. Are the mag
drops within limits? There should be one, no matter how slight. Be sure
to turn the mags off for a second to be sure they do
indeed switch off and kill the engine.
Then shut down the engine and remove the top cowl. Check for oil leaks
at the mags and, if applicable, the timing plug. If
all's well, install the top cowl. Then do the necessary log entries.
Note that this model and serial number mag was removed
and this model and serial number mag installed in this position on the
engine, if a mag was replaced.
Don't forget the yellow tags. Many mechanics just staple them right to
the last page of the engine log book. If you don't put
them there, they must be kept in some other secure place.
Homepage URL: http://www.eaa49.av.org
Webmaster: Paul Rosales (prosales(at)qnet.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>What is required for the Pitot Static/Transponder checks for VFR.
>
> How many times has ATC failed to receive a transponder that was
>properly working, just to find out that their equipment doesn't work
>properly?
>
My question is why are transponder checks required? It's easy to know if
it is working or not. ATC picks us up, they get the correct discrete
code and the altitude checks.
Why do we have to pay all the money to the radio shop, in my case to
someone who doesn't know what they are doing, and in my case to someone
who does even less than the functional check referred to above.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Tire Observations and Selection Questions |
Well, its that time again. I need to replace the tires on my RV-4. First a
couple of observations:
I am currently using Condor tires. They were recommended to me by the FBO
at my airport. They have given very good service, lasting almost twice as
long as the McCreary tires I had used before. The McCreary's were
inexpensive and wore like inexpensive tires. The Condors were about the
same money ($40 from Desser) but were visually much more robust. Their
cross section was more squared off with a much stiffer side wall and thicker
tread.
My question is this: Desser advertises "premium" retreads. They are about
the same cost as a set of Condors. I wonder how they compare in longevity.
If anyone has used these tires, or has some info on it, I'd greatly
appreciate a reply. Thanks.
Don Mei
RV-4 - N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
Listers,
I'm getting ready to re-install my oil sump and accessory housing on my
IO360-A3B6D after mods for inverted oil and have a few questions.
Should I use sealant on the gaskets when I do this?
If so what type?
Whatever type of sealant that was used the last time this engine was put
together cured to a very rigid state. I can see that this might be necessary
due to oil passages going through the gasket sealed area. I suppose if you
used too much there could be a problem with sealant squeezing out into the
passage and becoming loose. I can't find any info in the overhaul manual on
if/what sealant to use.
Also, This motor has the bendix dual magneto that I'm certain will not go
back on. My original plan was a dual lightspeed setup. I'm not overly
concerned about the redundancy of this installation (especially compared to
the D3000)or the cost since I've been planning all along on a dual
electrical system. But, I'm still very fond of the idea of giving the engine
fuel and removing the grounds and it will run. I'd like to just put a single
mag in the dual mag hole and have a lightspeed for the second mag.
Has anyone done this? Does anyone know if a single mag will just fit right
in where the dual mag came from? Where can I find the dimensions of the
single mag?
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tire Observations and Selection Questions |
First set Air Hawks did not last verry long.
Second set Condors lasted over 400 landings
Third set are Desser recaps with airstop tubes (tubes cost more than
tires) and they shown little wear after 200+ landings (touch and goes)
Highly recomend the recaps
Gary
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> Well, its that time again. I need to replace the tires on my RV-4. First a
> couple of observations:
>
> I am currently using Condor tires. They were recommended to me by the FBO
> at my airport. They have given very good service, lasting almost twice as
> long as the McCreary tires I had used before. The McCreary's were
> inexpensive and wore like inexpensive tires. The Condors were about the
> same money ($40 from Desser) but were visually much more robust. Their
> cross section was more squared off with a much stiffer side wall and thicker
> tread.
>
> My question is this: Desser advertises "premium" retreads. They are about
> the same cost as a set of Condors. I wonder how they compare in longevity.
> If anyone has used these tires, or has some info on it, I'd greatly
> appreciate a reply. Thanks.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
>
>Listers,
>
>
>I'm getting ready to re-install my oil sump and accessory housing on my
>IO360-A3B6D after mods for inverted oil and have a few questions.
>
>Should I use sealant on the gaskets when I do this?
>
>If so what type?
>
>Whatever type of sealant that was used the last time this engine was put
>together cured to a very rigid state. I can see that this might be
>necessary
>due to oil passages going through the gasket sealed area. I suppose if you
>used too much there could be a problem with sealant squeezing out into the
>passage and becoming loose. I can't find any info in the overhaul manual on
>if/what sealant to use.
>
>
>Also, This motor has the bendix dual magneto that I'm certain will not go
>back on. My original plan was a dual lightspeed setup. I'm not overly
>concerned about the redundancy of this installation (especially compared to
>the D3000)or the cost since I've been planning all along on a dual
>electrical system. But, I'm still very fond of the idea of giving the
>engine
>fuel and removing the grounds and it will run. I'd like to just put a
>single
>mag in the dual mag hole and have a lightspeed for the second mag.
>
>Has anyone done this? Does anyone know if a single mag will just fit right
>in where the dual mag came from? Where can I find the dimensions of the
>single mag?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Greg Puckett
>Elizabeth, CO
>
Greg,
I know Pliobond and Dow Corning DC4 is recommended by Lycoming as a
sealant/adhesive for the crankcase oil seal. Might also do just fine for
the sump. A call to Bart Lalonde could answer your question straight away.
A CFI friend of mine recently contacted Lightspeed with a need for an
electronic ignition for the same type of magneto setup as you have. They
supposedly have one that fits right in there perfectly.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Lightspeed aboard and luvin' it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 cowl plugs |
> Here is a vendor that just made me a set of custom n#
> embroidered fabric covered cowl plugs.
>
> GROUND TECH 800-825-1245 (from the RV Yellow Pages)
>
> I just received a set from them and they fit great.
>
Although I've never purchased them for my RV, I did have them for my Skyhawk
and my Cheetah. Both lasted a long time and were well made. I also used
their canopy covers for both; but, I used GBI for the RV's canopy cover. So
far, I can't complain about either company's products.
For the RV, I made my own cowl plugs because I didn't think Ground Tech had
them for the RV. I bought two car wash sponges, poked two holes in the
center of each, and tied them together with a piece of ski rope. The first
set, that I just replaced, lasted for over two years. I considered that
pretty good since my airplane sits on the ramp year round with the nose
pointed south into the sun. The cost was less than three bucks, even if one
had to buy a short length of rope. Just over two bucks for the sponges. I
keep telling you guys I'm cheap!
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Theory Article (Long) |
You want information on AOA? You can read find out just about everything
you want to know by searching this site.
http://www.monmouth.com/~jsd/how/htm/aoa.html
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Angle of Attack Theory Article (Long)
>
> I have found very little on the operational theory on the AOA devices
> -- lots of testomonial, nothing in the text books. There has been some
> activity on the three AOA sites on the web that are very informative.
> There is even a interactive web based video presentation (anamation) on
> the theory of AOA. Here is a snip from a Bruce Meacham write-up that is
> useful. (Doing this so it makes it into the archives for future
> e-searching.)
>
> .....................................
>
> Hanging on Alpha
>
> By Bruce Meacham
>
> Aircraft stay in the heavens for one reason; the wings push
> molecules of air down. Angle of attack (Ill call it Alpha from now on)
> is the angle at which a wing meets the wind that its going through. It
> directly relates to the amount of air a wing can push.
>
> An airfoil is only efficient in a narrow range of alpha.
> For many popular airfoils the range is around +/- 12 degrees. Above or
> below this, lift does not increase as rapidly as drag, and the airfoil
> is no longer effectively producing lift. Its important to know that
> the force the wind imparts on the wing increases as a square of the
> velocity.
>
> FL = alpha k
> v2
> Equation 1
>
> Here k compensate for the density of air and the characteristics of the
> airfoil.
>
> We can re-arrange this for alpha as
>
> alpha = FL / (k
> v2)
> Equation 2
>
> It can be inferred from Equation 2 that at large velocities
> (cruise) the amount of alpha required to keep the aircraft
> aloft is quite small. As speed decreases, to maintain the same amount
> of lifting force the wings must increase alpha. The
> slower you go, the higher the alpha. Till eventually the wings alpha
> goes beyond the region of best performance and the
> wing stalls.
> What happens in a 60-degree bank? Lets look at Equation 2
> again. In a level 60-degree bank the aircraft
> experiences twice the effective gravity force, so the FL term in the
> equation doubles. What does that do to alpha? Alpha
> too must double to compensate! This is why stall speed increases under
> increased G load.
>
> state of the airfoil in any given flight scenario. Stall
> speed, best glide, L/D Max, best rate of climb and best angle of climb
> are all constants of angle of attack, not air speed. At
> higher density altitudes or G loading all these speeds change, but not
> alpha.
>
> Another compelling argument for alpha is that at very low
> airspeed the Airspeed Indicator is less accurate while the
> angle of attack indicator only increases accuracy.
>
> The best kept pilot secret: The elevator is a direct alpha
> control! Its just that simple. Pull back: alpha goes up, lift
> goes up and speed goes down, pull forward the opposite happens.
>
> So what does this mean to the Pilot In Command? What are the
> really big benefits in practical application?
>
> Increase Approach accuracy. Alpha isnt power dependant, unlike
> velocity. For this reason, its dramatically easier to
> maintain an alpha vs. airspeed while the power is changing. Once alpha
> is stabilized on best glide, approach is simplified
> to controlling sink rate with throttle. The result is a rock solid
> approach that makes any pilot look like a test pilot.
>
> Overall Safety: When the navy implemented alpha techniques for their
> carrier born aircraft they saw a 50% decrease in
> accidents within a year. That alone says something about the overall
> increased safety margin this system enables.
>
> Base-Final stall avoidance: A stall-spin event on or around base to
> final is a real accident threat in any aircraft. This stage
> of flight is near stall speed, near the ground and under heavy pilot
> workloads. The desire to lineup an overshot runway can
> lead to high bank angles and increased G loading. More Gs means more
> alpha and stall The alpha gauge is a direct
> audible and visual warning of this threat.
>
> Best Glide: Best glide is much more easy to hit and maintain using
> alpha. Its also correct at all density altitudes. In an
> emergency this relatively small increase in performance could mean life
> or death.
>
> Airspeed Indicator backup: In the event of an IAS failure, the alpha
> gauge makes a very capable backup.
>
> Hypothetical Q&A:
> What about flaps? Dont they effectively change the wings
> alpha? Yes they do, so any good alpha indicator should
> sense flap position so they are properly calibrated for both wing
> configurations.
>
> Can you fly around on Alpha alone, why do I even need an
> airspeed indicator? Well quite frankly, yes, you could
> very safely fly on alpha alone. Of course youll never know how fast
> youre actually moving though the air. At any rate;
> 91.205 states that the airspeed indicator is required equipment.
>
> Where is the alpha display best mounted? I pedestal mounted
> my alpha display right on the glare shield. Its a small
> display with a tiny visual footprint, .25x1. On final its directly
> under the numbers in my immediate periphery vision. I
> dont ever have to move my visual focus away from the runway once Ive
> turned final. If you must panel mount, place it very
> high and near the center of the scan.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Sensennich 70 series Prop for RV-3 |
Has anyone on the list had any experience with the Sensennich metal prop
on an RV-3? If so, please contact me off list.
John Warren
Building RV-6, looking at a "3"
LaCenter WA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Wild" <Petewild(at)btinternet.com> |
Subject: | Tapering wing skins |
This is my first go at posting, bear with me...
Shane -
I just finshed my top skins and they worked out great.
I laid the skin on an 'anti-slip' rubber mesh and used a vixen file to
remove material down to just over half thickness at the edge. The filed
area formed a tiangle about 3 inches in each direction from the corner.
I then polished it to a satin finish with scotchbrite and checked the
thickness with a micrometer. Now they are riveted up it looks great.
Regards
Pete Wild - RV 8 - Sussex - England
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
philip condon wrote:
>
>
>
> The cheap Chineese Vans tach was off by 260 to 310 RPM depending where
> you were on th scale. Also, the elapsed timee was measuring at 1/3 to
> 1/4 the real time. I had to wait untill this past weekend to get
> daylight to try my optical tach. A digital tach is in my future.
I don't usally knock Van's products but I well have to agree with the
cheap tach. I bought one as a replacement in May of 01 and it quit while
I was flying this weekend. It always has been hard to read the hours
because the numbers did not line up with the windows.
> Side thought......could this be (One of) the reasons why there is such a
> variance in reported TBO of A/C engines ?? Some engines "need" overhaul
> at 12 to 1600 hrs. while some go to 22 to 2600 or more hrs bevore TBO.
> There are many reasons for this variance, but could crappie tachs (and
> recording time faults) be part of the equation ??.. Back to work
>
Engines well usally tell us when they are ready for an overhaul, this
should not have anyting to do with the number of hours on the tach.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Timing Slick Mags (long) |
Philip...
I also have this article and posted it to my Local EAA web site...
http://eaa72.org/tech/slickmags.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of philip condon
Subject: RV-List: Timing Slick Mags (long)
Someday, you can retrieve this from the archives when you need it. I
printed a copy for my engine book. The link where I got this may not
exist in the future. Doing it this way(via RV list) makes it into the RV
List archives for posterity...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Van's Cheap Tach and other Instruments |
Speaking of Van's ROC made instruments, awhile back several postings noted
that when they keyed the radio mike their manifold pressure gage went crazy.
I tested mine the other day and it did the same thing. Does anyone know if
this damages the gage over time, and what is Van's response?
By the way don't blame the Chinese for any of these instrument's short
comings. They are made in Taiwan, Republic of China, not Communist China.
There is a big difference in the two countries. The Taiwanese are very
smart people and have the capability of making very hi tech quality stuff.
Been there and seen their stuff.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ baffles done, finishing up last details
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | New bird from the nest.. |
Well..
I haven't seen anyone post anything yet..
so I guess I get to be the one to spill the beans..
I was out at Aurora working on the -4 today when I heard the unmistakable
rumble or an RV going by the hanger door, always gotta look and wave at the
guys from Va.........HEY...I didn't recognize that paint job!
Jump up, look out....
yep, that's new....
and it's lookin' GOOD!! Nice paint job!
They were all there after a few taxi tests, looking it over and talking to
the boss....didn't want to interrupt so I went back to the hanger, they
could be there for a while.
Few minutes later the unmistakable buzz of an RV taking to the sky and it
was the new one! The factory 8A followed shortly for some baby pictures
with Ken in the driver's seat and Scott riding shotgun.
All you guys, including me, building the -9A's now have something else to
think about. The -9A has got a new little brother...........
.............AND HIS TAIL'S DRAGGIN' ! ! ! !
WOO HOO!!
Congratulations Van and the rest of the engineering / proto crew on your
latest first flight and another (surely to be) successful model:
N179RV the RV-9 .
oh Diaaanaaaa......
.......we need to talk about this nose wheel thingy.......
(heh heh).
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR, 13B in gestation mode
#90221 Emp/Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Subject: | New bird from the nest.. |
Yep, and the new model is boasting a brand new IK-2000 engine monitoring
system...Installed 10 days ago. Expect to see it at Sun n Fun.
jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael McGee
Subject: RV-List: New bird from the nest..
Well..
I haven't seen anyone post anything yet..
so I guess I get to be the one to spill the beans..
I was out at Aurora working on the -4 today when I heard the unmistakable
rumble or an RV going by the hanger door, always gotta look and wave at the
guys from Va.........HEY...I didn't recognize that paint job!
Jump up, look out....
yep, that's new....
and it's lookin' GOOD!! Nice paint job!
They were all there after a few taxi tests, looking it over and talking to
the boss....didn't want to interrupt so I went back to the hanger, they
could be there for a while.
Few minutes later the unmistakable buzz of an RV taking to the sky and it
was the new one! The factory 8A followed shortly for some baby pictures
with Ken in the driver's seat and Scott riding shotgun.
All you guys, including me, building the -9A's now have something else to
think about. The -9A has got a new little brother...........
.............AND HIS TAIL'S DRAGGIN' ! ! ! !
WOO HOO!!
Congratulations Van and the rest of the engineering / proto crew on your
latest first flight and another (surely to be) successful model:
N179RV the RV-9 .
oh Diaaanaaaa......
.......we need to talk about this nose wheel thingy.......
(heh heh).
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR, 13B in gestation mode
#90221 Emp/Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
> Engines well usally tell us when they are ready for an overhaul, this
> should not have anyting to do with the number of hours on the tach.
>
Jerry is right on this one. I know you guys have been tearing up the cheap
tachs; but, you may not be aware that all mechanical tachs will slow down,
over time. In fact, the American Yankee Association has tach checks at all
of their major events. It's that common. The AYA commonly finds tachs that
are as much as 100 rpms slow. That's pretty important when we push our
engines right up to the redline. Even if your tachs aren't failing, it's a
good idea to check them out, from time to time. Like Jerry, I know not to
worry about the number of hours on the tach. That's only for record
keeping. I worry about how much metal I find at every oil change, how much
compression I find at each cylinder during the inspection, what the oil
analysis reported, etc. Those tell me the condition of things.
When I purchased my instruments and gauges for my RV, I noted some of the
indicated failings on the RV-list and bought accordingly. My instruments
and gauges are from reputable companies that have been around for a long
time. I've had none of the problems you guys have been discussing.
Sometimes, it pays to pay a little more to get good quality, even if the
faces don't say anything about Van's on them. I have to admit that I did
buy his fuel gauges. That was the first and last time. They were just like
what my friend uses in his boat building business. I'll get aviation types
for the next one.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
Yup, mine is about 200 hundred low, I use a prop tach for runup.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's Cheap Tach and other Instruments |
i would have to join the club. my manifold pressure gauge goes from 30 to
zero when the mic is keyed.
whats up with that?
oh yeah, and when i activate the flaps i can hear the flap motor through the
headsets. whats up with that also
scott
tampa
millions of final details
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Cheap Tach and other Instruments |
Count me in. My Van's MP gauge will move either up or down when I key the
transmitter. I haven't yet been able to detect any pattern to its movements,
but they seem to be split pretty much evenly between up & down. When it moves
up, the gauge pegs, but when it moves down, it only drops about ten inches. To
add another data point to this mess, I noticed yesterday, after having the power
on for about fifteen minutes (as opposed to just a minute or so to test one or
two specific items), that the drop upon keying the transmitter was very slow and
only resulted in a loss of three or four inches. Weirdness piled upon
weirdness.
If there's an actual solution for this, I'd like to implement it before riveting
on my forward top skin later this week. I was thinking that I'd isolate the
ground for the MP gauge,, which is currently ganged with the grounds from the
other Van's gauges. Is this worth doing?
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
Ashland, MA
going to the airport on or about 3/18
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> i would have to join the club. my manifold pressure gauge goes from 30 to
> zero when the mic is keyed.
> whats up with that?
> oh yeah, and when i activate the flaps i can hear the flap motor through the
> headsets. whats up with that also
> scott
> tampa
> millions of final details
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
>
> >I'm getting ready to re-install my oil sump and accessory housing on my
> >IO360-A3B6D after mods for inverted oil and have a few questions.
> >
> >Should I use sealant on the gaskets when I do this?
> >
> >If so what type?
> >
> >Whatever type of sealant that was used the last time this engine was put
> >together cured to a very rigid state. I can see that this might be
> >necessary
> >due to oil passages going through the gasket sealed area. I suppose if you
> >used too much there could be a problem with sealant squeezing out into the
> >passage and becoming loose. I can't find any info in the overhaul manual on
> >if/what sealant to use.
>snipped
> >Greg Puckett
> >Elizabeth, CO
> >
>
>Greg,
>
>I know Pliobond and Dow Corning DC4 is recommended by Lycoming as a
>sealant/adhesive for the crankcase oil seal. Might also do just fine for
>the sump. A call to Bart Lalonde could answer your question straight away.
>
>A CFI friend of mine recently contacted Lightspeed with a need for an
>electronic ignition for the same type of magneto setup as you have. They
>supposedly have one that fits right in there perfectly.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>Lightspeed aboard and luvin' it.
Greg,
If your gasket has a waxy coating (usually a gray color), do not add any
sealant. That coating is a heat activated sealant. Assuming there is no
sealant, I would stay away from an sort of RTV (like the ones mentioned
above by Brian) The problems stem from possibly plugging any oil
passageways. RTVs cure to a solid state and can easily plug up an oil
passageway if you use to much. The best sealant for ANY sealing surface
which has oil passages going through it, is a product called Hylomar.
Hylomar is a Rolls Royce aerospace product. It is manufactured under
license by Permatex (and others). It is approved by Lycoming. You can find
it at any auto parts store. It is a thick blue liquid (as made by Permatex)
which does not completely harden. The fact that it stays pliable will
prevent it from plugging up an oil passageways. This is a great feature if
you are of the Tim Allen persuasion. (If more is better, to much is just
enough!) This stuff is GREAT!
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
Larry -
I didn't see any responses to your question, so I'll take a stab.
Transponder encoder checks are required basically when operating where
they're required equipment. In a mode C veil and above 10K'. It's required
(x-ponder use and 24 month check) by the FAR's.
Reasoning? I'd imagine the feds just feel that if you're going to be "in
the system" squawking an altitude, they want it accurate. Makes sense to
me. You're in close proximity to airline and other IFR traffic in a mode C
veil and when above 10K'.
Also, the check has to be done by a certified shop/tech. I looked into this
extensively and came to the conclusion that you can't self certify, even as
a homebuilder.
I spent about $100 for my last check. The tech "tuned" my system while
checking it out. The performance improvement was noticable afterwards,
based on my lack of complaints and range from ATC facilities. Before, I'd
have problems with them "seeing" me occasionally.
This basic x-ponder/encoder check is different than the pitot static system
check required if operating IFR.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>My question is why are transponder checks required? It's easy to know if
>it is working or not. ATC picks us up, they get the correct discrete
>code and the altitude checks.
>
>Why do we have to pay all the money to the radio shop, in my case to
>someone who doesn't know what they are doing, and in my case to someone
>who does even less than the functional check referred to above.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Tapering wing skins |
A question for the engineer types out there.
Could tapering or feathering and edge in this manner increase the
possibility of a crack starting?
TD
RV8 all control surfaces done starting the wings
>From: "Peter Wild" <Petewild(at)btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Tapering wing skins
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:54:15 -0000
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Peter Wild"
>
>This is my first go at posting, bear with me...
>Shane -
>I just finshed my top skins and they worked out great.
>I laid the skin on an 'anti-slip' rubber mesh and used a vixen file to
>remove material down to just over half thickness at the edge. The filed
>area formed a tiangle about 3 inches in each direction from the corner.
>I then polished it to a satin finish with scotchbrite and checked the
>thickness with a micrometer. Now they are riveted up it looks great.
>Regards
>Pete Wild - RV 8 - Sussex - England
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Cheap Tach and other Instruments |
The cheap tach refered to is the full size mechanical tack made by
Falcon instruments which I believe was formerly Woltrad and it states in
big letters MADE IN CHINA. The Isspro instruments van's and cheif
aircraft now sell are made in Taiwan and just another example of "You
get what you pay for"
Gary Zilik
"Michael J. Robbins" wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of Van's ROC made instruments, awhile back several postings noted
> that when they keyed the radio mike their manifold pressure gage went crazy.
> I tested mine the other day and it did the same thing. Does anyone know if
> this damages the gage over time, and what is Van's response?
>
> By the way don't blame the Chinese for any of these instrument's short
> comings. They are made in Taiwan, Republic of China, not Communist China.
> There is a big difference in the two countries. The Taiwanese are very
> smart people and have the capability of making very hi tech quality stuff.
> Been there and seen their stuff.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ baffles done, finishing up last details
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
>
>The best sealant for ANY sealing surface
>which has oil passages going through it, is a product called Hylomar.
> Hylomar is a Rolls Royce aerospace product. It is manufactured under
>license by Permatex (and others). It is approved by Lycoming. You can find
>it at any auto parts store. It is a thick blue liquid (as made by Permatex)
>which does not completely harden. The fact that it stays pliable will
>prevent it from plugging up an oil passageways. This is a great feature if
>you are of the Tim Allen persuasion. (If more is better, to much is just
>enough!) This stuff is GREAT!
>Charlie Kuss
>
Charlie,
Does the Permatex version say Hylomar on the container? If not, how do we
identify it?
How did you determine what Lycoming has approved? I've looked at my
overhaul manual, and all the Lycoming Service Letters, Service
Instructions, etc, and I can't find anything which states which sealants
etc Lycoming approves, except in a very few cases where a specific product
will be mentioned for a particular use.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Larry -
>
>I didn't see any responses to your question, so I'll take a stab.
>Transponder encoder checks are required basically when operating where
>they're required equipment. In a mode C veil and above 10K'. It's required
>(x-ponder use and 24 month check) by the FAR's.
>
>Reasoning? I'd imagine the feds just feel that if you're going to be "in
>the system" squawking an altitude, they want it accurate. Makes sense to
>me. You're in close proximity to airline and other IFR traffic in a mode C
>veil and when above 10K'.
>
I agree that the altitude needs to be accurate. I just don't see how a
shop saying it is accurate is better than ATC saying it is accurate.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
> just now realized that the error may be mostly due to AOA, which means you
> may have the same 5, 6, or more knot error at stall AOA, at any IAS. Don't
> have a clue how to calibrate for that!)
>
David: I recently began taking notice of the GPS ground speed in my 6A on
stabilized short final @ 65 mph IAS; it is typically 73-75 mph, and that's
flying into whatever light wind there usually is. I hate to say it, but
those 50 mph IAS stall speeds at Vso we admire the RV's for is probably off
by about 10 mph due to pitot AOA error. Disappointing, but probably all the
manufacturers cook their stall numbers the same way, by not applying the
correction.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Meier, George" <George.Meier(at)goodrich.com> |
Subject: | Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
As an ex-Air Force Avionics person, I can state that a GOOD transponder
check, on the bench, will be better than any ATC check. A digital altitude
is entered into the transponder, then the transmitter is tested for the
presence of every bit and transmitter power and frequency. Together with a
pitot/static and altimeter check this will verify the whole shebang.
George Meier
Avionics Software Engineer
RV6A - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
hi , i have a val 720 radio for sale . if interested please contact me off
line......marty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
What's the density altitude when you are getting these readings?
Neil
-7 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
>
> dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
>
>
> > just now realized that the error may be mostly due to AOA, which means
you
> > may have the same 5, 6, or more knot error at stall AOA, at any IAS.
Don't
> > have a clue how to calibrate for that!)
> >
>
> David: I recently began taking notice of the GPS ground speed in my 6A on
> stabilized short final @ 65 mph IAS; it is typically 73-75 mph, and that's
> flying into whatever light wind there usually is. I hate to say it, but
> those 50 mph IAS stall speeds at Vso we admire the RV's for is probably
off
> by about 10 mph due to pitot AOA error. Disappointing, but probably all
the
> manufacturers cook their stall numbers the same way, by not applying the
> correction.
>
> -Bill B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
> >The best sealant for ANY sealing surface
> >which has oil passages going through it, is a product called Hylomar.
> > Hylomar is a Rolls Royce aerospace product. It is manufactured under
> >license by Permatex (and others). It is approved by Lycoming. You can
>find
> >it at any auto parts store. It is a thick blue liquid (as made by
>Permatex)
> >which does not completely harden. The fact that it stays pliable will
> >prevent it from plugging up an oil passageways. This is a great feature
>if
> >you are of the Tim Allen persuasion. (If more is better, to much is just
> >enough!) This stuff is GREAT!
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
>
>
>Charlie,
>
>Does the Permatex version say Hylomar on the container? If not, how do we
>identify it?
>
>How did you determine what Lycoming has approved? I've looked at my
>overhaul manual, and all the Lycoming Service Letters, Service
>Instructions, etc, and I can't find anything which states which sealants
>etc Lycoming approves, except in a very few cases where a specific product
>will be mentioned for a particular use.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
FWIW, I initially used Hylomar on the cork tank cover gaskets. Result: Leaks
o'plenty. The blue color of the sealant mixed with the blue 100LL tint had
me wondering what was fuel and what was sealant, that was dripping down the
wing root. Indeed though, the sealant stays pliable, and slightly sticky in
texture. Should work great on the sump/crankcase surfaces which is a much
more rigid and uniform union vs. the flexible tank root rib and cover plate
junction. My engine overhaul video shows a very sticky and somewhat clear
looking sealant used on the parting surfaces of the crankcase, used in
conjuction with the silk thread. It may very well be Hylomar.
Definitely do NOT use red Permatex RTV!! Avgas eats it for lunch. I have
one engine out landing in my logbook as a result of the inappropriate use of
the stuff. Could have been a very costly mistake on my behalf.
I would defer judgement on such a critical junction to those with engine
building experience, or Lycoming directly. The Pliobond and DC4 sealants are
the only specific products I have seen mentioned on a Lycoming nose seal
installation procedure. This is a different type of joint for sure, being
rubber (?) on metal vs. metal on metal with gasket in between. Kevin, the
Hylomar is specified on the product package. It's available at Autozone,
which is where I bought it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
>
>
>David: I recently began taking notice of the GPS ground speed in my 6A on
>stabilized short final @ 65 mph IAS; it is typically 73-75 mph, and that's
>flying into whatever light wind there usually is. I hate to say it, but
>those 50 mph IAS stall speeds at Vso we admire the RV's for is probably off
>by about 10 mph due to pitot AOA error. Disappointing, but probably all the
>manufacturers cook their stall numbers the same way, by not applying the
>correction.
>
I'm not sure how this could be considered "cooking" stall numbers. If
something is published as IAS that means what shows on the AS indicator
and should not be considered TAS. IAS and TAS vary for many reasons and
TAS in the small airplanes we fly is normally way different than IAS,
particularly near stall and varying greatly with altitude and temperature.
I am used to operating at high altitudes where this is particularly
noticable. It is baffling to me when pilots ask what she indicates at
cruise. What in the world does this mean. A cruise IAS could be
anywhere from about 160 knots to 105 knots at the same TAS and is not a
good indication of how fast the airplane is.
IAS near the stall is a reference that is accurate at 1g and similar
weights. That is all. It does not show how fast the airplane is going,
nor is it meant to.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Measured Performance; was LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator |
From the CAFE report on Steve Barnard's RV-6A.
MEASURED PERFORMANCE
Propeller static RPM, 28.3 in Hg M.P. 2218 RPM
Takeoff distance, 1645.5 lb @ 120' MSL 625 ft @ 70 F with 7 mph
tailwind
Liftoff speed, per barogaph, CAS 52.6 kt/60.6 mph
Touchdown speed, barograph, CAS 54.9 kt/63.3 mph
Rate of climb, 2500-3500 ft, STD Day, Vy 1233.8 fpm
Stall speed, Vs1, clean, 1 G, CAS 51.0 kt/58.7 mph @ 1633lb
Stall speed, Vso, landing, 1 G, CAS 45.2 kt/52.1 mph @ 1631lb
Vmax@ 24.2", 2618 RPM, 12.2 gph, TAS 173.4 kt/199.7 mph, 7079'
dens., 1634 lb
Vmax@ 21.8", 2507 RPM, 11.3 gph, TAS 162.3 kt/191.6 mph, 9058'
dens., 1626 lb
Vc@ 21.1", 2441 RPM, 10.2 gph, TAS 158.4 kt/182.5 mph, 9145'
dens., 1623 lb
Vc@ 18.9", 2349 RPM, 7.8 gph, TAS 153.3 kt/176.6 mph, 9008'
dens., 1622 lb
Vc@ 18.3", 2292 RPM, 7.4 gph, TAS 147.2 kt/169.5 mph, 8987'
dens., 1621 lb
Vc@ 18.2", 2251 RPM, 7.7 gph, TAS 143.1 kt/164.8 mph, 8877'
dens., 1620 l
See http://members.eaa.org/home/flight_reports/rv-6a.html for the full
report
Gary
> David: I recently began taking notice of the GPS ground speed in my 6A on
> stabilized short final @ 65 mph IAS; it is typically 73-75 mph, and that's
> flying into whatever light wind there usually is. I hate to say it, but
> those 50 mph IAS stall speeds at Vso we admire the RV's for is probably off
> by about 10 mph due to pitot AOA error. Disappointing, but probably all the
> manufacturers cook their stall numbers the same way, by not applying the
> correction.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Perhaps the biggest factor in stall speed is the prop. A C/S prop acts as a
brake whereas a F/P prop is generating considerable thrust at idle RPM on an
RV. Put your idle RPM up a bit on a F/P prop and the stall speed
decreases - cheapest way I know of to achieve that!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI Vs Air Speed Indicator
>
>
> >
> >
> >dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
> >
>
>
> >
> >David: I recently began taking notice of the GPS ground speed in my 6A on
> >stabilized short final @ 65 mph IAS; it is typically 73-75 mph, and
that's
> >flying into whatever light wind there usually is. I hate to say it, but
> >those 50 mph IAS stall speeds at Vso we admire the RV's for is probably
off
> >by about 10 mph due to pitot AOA error. Disappointing, but probably all
the
> >manufacturers cook their stall numbers the same way, by not applying the
> >correction.
> >
>
> I'm not sure how this could be considered "cooking" stall numbers. If
> something is published as IAS that means what shows on the AS indicator
> and should not be considered TAS. IAS and TAS vary for many reasons and
> TAS in the small airplanes we fly is normally way different than IAS,
> particularly near stall and varying greatly with altitude and temperature.
>
> I am used to operating at high altitudes where this is particularly
> noticable. It is baffling to me when pilots ask what she indicates at
> cruise. What in the world does this mean. A cruise IAS could be
> anywhere from about 160 knots to 105 knots at the same TAS and is not a
> good indication of how fast the airplane is.
>
> IAS near the stall is a reference that is accurate at 1g and similar
> weights. That is all. It does not show how fast the airplane is going,
> nor is it meant to.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
Coupla things to add to the txp check discussion.
First, the tech checks (among other things) the thing across a range of
altitudes, not just the one you happen to be flying at when you talk to ATC.
And second, my research indicates that a homebuilder COULD in fact do the
transponder check -- if he had calibrated and tested equipment that met the
FAA specs for such checks, and was properly trained in its use. Owning,
keeping calibrated, and keeping trained on such equipment would be way more
money and time than I'd want to put out for something I'd no doubt forget
how to do properly if only done once every year or two.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Autogas and the XP360 |
My hanger is in Minden NV.(MEV) 4720' & I live in South Lake Tahoe and have
my plane there frequently, (TVL) 6250'. I fly back and forth to Monterey Bay
area (WVI). I fly 12500' to and 11500' back using Auto gas, I have 70 hrs.
on my RV-4 with O-320 and had no problems, the OAT at that Altitude is
usually 40 deg. or less, but I will certainly be aware of this limitation.
Wayne
> > Very well put Jim. In fact our manual spells out not to exceed 12,500
feet
> > and fuel temps over 85*F. We also encourage a blend of auto fuel and
> 100LL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Lightweight starters... |
That's great,
I have a very different story. Nothing but problems, probably due to a weak
battery (gives only one chance to start) but also due to a high compression
engine and Light Speed Ignition and a wood prop (low inertia).
What I've learned:
1) LSE can fire early if voltage drops below 12v (not sure where the limit
is). Cost me 2ea ring gears, 2ea starter drive gears, starter housing and
brush assembly to understand this (some parts for starter purchased to
ensure good operation after failure). Solution: Keep ignition off until
starter builds some momentum, then light it off. Works Great! Also in
instructions note, connect ignition as close to Batt as possible (i.e. at
pos terminal). This prevents a volt drop between LSE and batt source.
2) Battery must be capable of high current as Sky-Tec is very current
hungry. PC680 is a good choice as I understand. I was using a look-a-like
non-name brand of lower capacity. (Waiting for PC680 UPS)
3) Sky-Tec is weak at drive gear support. This is shown in off center wear
pattern on teeth. Due to multiple self destruction episodes and nearly $700
in parts that still don't work right, I have decided to cut my loses and go
B&C at the recommendation of others experiencing a similar situation. Again,
I have high compression and you may not see this with stock engines.
If you have any are all of these configuration issues, due more research.
RV-4, Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: RV_8 Pilot [mailto:rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightweight starters...
I have almost the same story as Gary with my Sky-Tec starter. 374 hrs. No
problems. Odyssey battery. No components changed on the starter yet.
O-320, 8.5:1 comp. All original and very satisfied.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Mark-
>
>First of all, the manufacturer is Sky-Tec so people can actually search
>properly.
>
>The Sky-Tec starter in my 6A has 500 hrs on it and just a week ago I
>replaced
>the solenoid on the side of the starter for $40. A good deal as that
>appears
>to be the only thing that ages on them (I'll see if brushes are the next
>thing but for now they're good). I think it is a super unit and I would
>get
>the same setup if I were to build again.
>
>The great thing is that these starters really crank if you have a good
>battery. I recently replaced my 23 lb Concord RG25 battery with the 14 lb
>Odyssey PC680, which you can get on the web for $100 or less ($70 less than
>Van's), and boy does it turn things over sprightly. You can taxi on this
>starter.
>
>-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | N Number Placement |
I would like to put my N Numbers on the bottom of each side of the rudder (a
vertical tail surface NOT the fuselage). By my read of the FAR's (see
below), this is legal. Any comments?
Ross Mickey
FAR Section 45.25: Location of marks on fixed-wing aircraft.
(a) The operator of a fixed-wing aircraft shall display the required marks
on either the vertical tail surfaces or the sides of the fuselage, except as
provided in 45.29(f).
(b) The marks required by paragraph (a) of this section shall be displayed
as follows:
(1) If displayed on the vertical tail surfaces, horizontally on both
surfaces, horizontally on both surfaces of a single vertical tail or on the
outer surfaces of a multivertical tail. However, on aircraft on which marks
at least 3 inches high may be displayed in accordance with 45.29(b)(1), the
marks may be displayed vertically on the vertical tail surfaces.
(2) If displayed on the fuselage surfaces, horizontally on both sides of the
fuselage between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the
horizontal stabilizer. However, if engine pods or other appurtenances are
located in this area and are an integral part of the fuselage side surfaces,
the operator may place the marks on those pods or appurtenances.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
-
Coupla things to add to the txp check discussion.
First, the tech checks (among other things) the thing across a range of
altitudes, not just the one you happen to be flying at when you talk to ATC.
And second, my research indicates that a homebuilder COULD in fact do the
transponder check -- if he had calibrated and tested equipment that met the
FAA specs for such checks, and was properly trained in its use. Owning,
keeping calibrated, and keeping trained on such equipment would be way more
money and time than I'd want to put out for something I'd no doubt forget
how to do properly if only done once every year or two.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
----------------------------------------------------
Here is a new twist to this discussion - My new UPS SL-70 Transponder has a
altitude readout - it is a certified and tested piece of equipment just as
accurate as your bench test equipment.
Sure that doesn't tell if the transmitter is drifting off frequency -butlets
start promoting the idea that this new type of Transponder/Encoder should
only need the static system and altimeter checked, the avionics part of the
system is self reporting and any error that would cause ATC problems should
be obvious!!!
By the way it is interesting to note how long it takes the altitude encoder
to come up to temperature and start reporting altitudes, one could easily be
out of two or three thousand feet if the taxi distance was short.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
Jim;
So what engine instruments do you have.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach
>
> When I purchased my instruments and gauges for my RV, I noted some of
the
> indicated failings on the RV-list and bought accordingly. My
instruments
> and gauges are from reputable companies that have been around for a
long
> time.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
List,
I have a very well built and super accurate RV-8 jig for sale. This Jig is
made with laminated beam side rails and is setup with locating marks and
bulkhead locations. This jig has produced two perfect fuselages and is very
easy to setup. Jig is located in central Massachusetts. The first $100 takes
it and that's a lot less than it cost to build!
Tom
RV-8 Fastback
List,
I have
a very well built and super accurate RV-8 jig for sale. This Jig is made with
laminated beam side rails and is setup with locating marks and bulkhead
locations. This jig has produced two perfect fuselages and is very easy to
setup. Jig is located in central Massachusetts. The first $100 takes it and
that's a lot less than it cost to build!
Tom
RV-8
Fastback
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
> So what engine instruments do you have.
I have a mix of Westach, Mitchell, and one Rochester. I tried staying away
from UMA; but, I think I may have a UMA sender, or two. So far, those have
worked.
I know some folks don't like Westach's name; but, I bought TSO'd stuff and
used bayonets for the four cylinder EGT and CHT. All of my gauges are
electrical types and not do the quiver that you guys speak of. My MP is
mechanical and works well. It has had problems sticking in the past; but,
that finally cleared up. Must have been something in the line. I'll use a
bigger line, next time. All in all, I'm quite happy with my choices. I had
thought about Van's gauges for the next time; but, no more.
For your viewing pleasure, attached is a photo of a panel with steam gauges
instead of a black box. I kinda like it that way. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "cmcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Cheap Tach and other Instruments |
I have been told to fix the manifold pressure guage you have to wrap the
sender in tin foil!!!
It works
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM readyto paint
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I was
just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between indicated
and true.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I
>was
>just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
>
>The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
>
>The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
>indicated
>and true.
>
>Comments?
>
>-Joe
>
>
160mph indicated is very typical. That's what I see on my RV8/O-360/FP at
around 8,000'MSL cruise altitude. GPS groundspeeds can differ by as much as
50mph at times. Lots of variables enter into the IAC/TAS/GS equation.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N Number Placement |
Ross,
What you read is correct. Have at it.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: N Number Placement
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:10:46 -0800
>
>
>I would like to put my N Numbers on the bottom of each side of the rudder
>(a
>vertical tail surface NOT the fuselage). By my read of the FAR's (see
>below), this is legal. Any comments?
>
>Ross Mickey
>
>FAR Section 45.25: Location of marks on fixed-wing aircraft.
>(a) The operator of a fixed-wing aircraft shall display the required marks
>on either the vertical tail surfaces or the sides of the fuselage, except
>as
>provided in 45.29(f).
>
>(b) The marks required by paragraph (a) of this section shall be displayed
>as follows:
>
>(1) If displayed on the vertical tail surfaces, horizontally on both
>surfaces, horizontally on both surfaces of a single vertical tail or on the
>outer surfaces of a multivertical tail. However, on aircraft on which marks
>at least 3 inches high may be displayed in accordance with 45.29(b)(1), the
>marks may be displayed vertically on the vertical tail surfaces.
>
>(2) If displayed on the fuselage surfaces, horizontally on both sides of
>the
>fuselage between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the
>horizontal stabilizer. However, if engine pods or other appurtenances are
>located in this area and are an integral part of the fuselage side
>surfaces,
>the operator may place the marks on those pods or appurtenances.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind, I have seen a drawing of the
engine side of the firewall showing suggested locations for all the
firewall mounted goodies plus holes for penetrating cables, etc. Now I
can't find it. It doesn't seem to be in my Van's supplied plans, and I
have been through my collection of RVAtors without any luck.
Building a -6A. Can anyone jog my memory?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Charlie,
Drawing 19 for the RV-7 and RV-9 shows this. You can see a portion of this
drawing on page 15 of the 6th issue, 2001 of the RVator.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
engine baffles
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind, I have seen a drawing of the
engine side of the firewall showing suggested locations for all the
firewall mounted goodies plus holes for penetrating cables, etc. Now I
can't find it. It doesn't seem to be in my Van's supplied plans, and I
have been through my collection of RVAtors without any luck.
Building a -6A. Can anyone jog my memory?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
> I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I
was
> just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
>
> The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
>
> The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
indicated
> and true.
152 mph indicated, 172 mph true at 2400/18-20 drinking 7.2 gph average.
160hp, Warnke wooden prop, RV-4. I like to cruise at this speed as the
engine feels just right at that setting. Much higher RPM doesn't seem to be
that beneficial on the speed/fuel thing. Sure, I can cruise at 185+ but I'm
also going through 10.5 gph, last I looked. If I'm in a hurry, I'll sneak up
to 2450 or 2500. That is over 8.5 gph. Heck, I'm used to a Cub, for crying
out loud. Anything over 85 mph is a bonus. And what a deal going that fast
and using that little fuel. Flat amazes my spam can friends.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
OK, are you serious? 7 gallons per hour at 170? (he thinks I'm lying, I can
tell) 'Well, it's 7.2, actually.' Oh. Huh. Huh.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | N Number Placement |
Oddly enough there was a brief discussion of this at lunch today. A local
builder had put his N-number on the rudder and the inspector (FAA) made him
move it to the VS. He did so with cheap stick on numbers. After he got his
airworthiness cert he removed them with a heat gun and put the permanent
ones on the rudder. On a subsequent call to the FSDO to clarify the regs he
was told they left it to the discretion of the inspector. YMMV
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> I would like to put my N Numbers on the bottom of each side
> of the rudder (a
> vertical tail surface NOT the fuselage). By my read of the FAR's (see
> below), this is legal. Any comments?
>
> Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall Plans |
Charlie,
I think you are remembering the drawing on page 49 of Tony Bengelis' book
"Tony Bengelis on Engines." It shows the layout for his RV-6A.
Terry
>
> Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind, I have seen a drawing of the
> engine side of the firewall showing suggested locations for all the
> firewall mounted goodies plus holes for penetrating cables, etc. Now I
> can't find it. It doesn't seem to be in my Van's supplied plans, and I
> have been through my collection of RVAtors without any luck.
>
> Building a -6A. Can anyone jog my memory?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.)
> San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi Joe,
Lots of fun stuff goes into trying to figure airspeed numbers when trying to compare
airplane against airplane.
One thing you need to nail down is % power. At what power setting are you getting
160 mph?
Past writings from Van says that the industry stand for stating cruise speed is
8000' density altitude, full throttle/full prop. That's the altitude where full
throttle will give you 75% power.
(To get 8000' density altitude, you need to take your altitude (set to 29.92) and
correct if for temp. Depending on the day, you might find yourself flying at
6500 msl or something like that to get 8000' density altitude).
That's the best place to compare numbers. It's also best for the manufactures
because that's where people look for good comparsions with high speed numbers.
In real life we almost never use this 75% cruise in our normal flying. Most of
the time were at 55% to 65% power.
To get numbers to compare RV's to RV's, first you need to be able to get true airspeed
vs power.
Then we can start trying to compare #'s for you.
If you can't determine power, try giving us some other info to try to work it out
for you.
Fly at 8000 density altitude and give us RPM and MP and TAS (remember indicated
airspeed does little good for apples to apples comparsions).
We probably also need to know what RV model, engine type, prop type to give us
an idea of wether it's good or bad
I've added a previous note in the archives I posted about how I go about getting
75% speed data.
Regards,
Laird
SoCal
Match: #48
Message: #94499
Date: Nov 15, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Test Flight Update/Testing
Eric,
Great report, and you've only just begun to learn your airplane. The more you
fly it, the more it becomes part of you. You just kinda wear it after a while.
Just curious, in looking at you test points, could you clarify something for me.
When testing at, say, 8000', are you taking into account temperature, (to determine
density altitude) or are you just flying at that altitude.
If your just flying that altitude, your not really getting the data that I think
you really want.
When reporting cruise speeds I think one wants to report the altitude as density
altitude, or what the engine/airplane really think it's flying at. I think
you'll find that what you think is 75% power is somewhat lower, and would reflect
a slower speed that what your really doing.
When taking speed data, I have a rigid checklist that I go thru to try to get repeatable
data. The simple version is:
Set altimeter to 29.92
Check OAT to determine indicated altitude to fly to get desired density altitude
Stabilize at desired DA and recheck temp. (Adjust indicated alt as necessary)
Note date, time, OAT, Indicated alt and fuel remaining (if you have a fuel computer-determines
aircraft wieght)
Full throttle
Prop full forward
Maintain altitude
Find Peak EGT and note
Back off EGT 50 deg
I then take data on RPM, MP, Fuel Flow, Fuel Pressure, an all EGTs and CHT's
Then fly heading of X, maintain altitude, stablize, and note GPS speed
Fly heading of X + 120 deg and stabilize and note GPS speed
Fly heading of X + 240 deg and stabilize and note GPS speed
Once on the ground I can run the Excel spreadsheet I got off Kevin Horton's web
page that takes 3 way GPS runs and then take the wind out. Leave you with a
TAS.
This way you don't have to worry about calibrating airspeed indicatior and static
errors. The biggest thing to worry about is the weather conditions like turbulance
and rising or falling air. That's why I'll try to get a least 4 different
tests at very close to the same data point before I feel good about stating
a speed to anyone.
I'm currently using this technique to tweak my RV to go faster. So far the hardest
thing to do is get 3 or 4 data points close to the same.
I was also able to double check the test technique by having my Dad fly (without
me in the airplane) and he came up with very similar results on 2 differnt days.
So I feel pretty good that it's at least repeatable for my airplane.
Now comparing 2 airplanes might yield differnt results because of instrumention
errors.
I'd like the others out who might have comments out there to critique my test technique
to see if I'm missing something.
Eric, Have fun testing.
Laird
RV-6 (8000' DA/full power speed 180 kts/207mph)
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Nov 15, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: Test Flight Update
Hi everyone,
Sorry I took so long to send this flight update but I have been quite busy tweaking
and flying and tweaking some more.
snip good stuff on flight test-
Weight for speed tests was 1,390 Lbs. with me plus 15 gallons total fuel. (outside
air temp was 63f at sea level) All speeds are True Airspeed Speed in statute
miles per hour:
Top speed at 1,000 feet - 195 mph (TAS) (2,900 RPM) - Full Throttle
75% power at 8,000 feet - 188 mph (TAS) (2,700 RPM) - Full Throttle
65% power at 8,000 feet - 175 mph (TAS) (2,450 RPM)
snip-
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (flying)
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Mar 5, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Performance
I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I was
just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between indicated
and true.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
I'm glad to see that the airspeed given was identified as indicated airspeed.
What altitude?
What power setting?
On my RV-3 in level flight, I've seen 137 mph indicated at full throttle, and
212 mph indicated slightly less than full throttle.
Anyone need to guess which was at 17,990' MSL (19,800' density) altitude, and
which was at 1,500' MSL?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
Thanks for all the info,
I also talked to an overhaul shop and was told to use Aviation Grade
Permatex #3. Not sure if this is the same as Hylomar but I was told it also
stays pliable. Use a very thin coating by putting a blob on your rubber
glove covered fingers and running the gasket through was the recommended
technique.
I think I'll go to a auto supply and look for Hylomar or the Permatex #3 and
be done with it.
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
Nautical or statue
> The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
indicated
> and true.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | manifold vs alum foil |
listers
i took the tip from a lister today, to surround the manifold sender with
aluminum foil to prevent it from spiking when the push to talk was switched.
it didn't work in my case. i'll call vans tommorrow and find out what they
have to say.
scott
tampa
millions of details
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV-7/9 F711 & F712 fit |
Any body else have a hell of a time fitting the F711 and F712 to the F779
tail cone. All parts seem to be the right numbers but the fit is terrible.
I'm having to bend the F711 and F712 to even get 2 clecoes in place. Any
suggestions?
Steve
RV-7A
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
Hey guys,
Don't think that just because a tach is "digital" that it is accurate. Digital
just makes it easier to read - if you want to check accuracy you must check it
against a known standard.
Dave
Jim Sears wrote:
>
> > So what engine instruments do you have.
>
> I have a mix of Westach, Mitchell, and one Rochester. I tried staying away
> from UMA; but, I think I may have a UMA sender, or two. So far, those have
> worked.
> I know some folks don't like Westach's name; but, I bought TSO'd stuff and
> used bayonets for the four cylinder EGT and CHT. All of my gauges are
> electrical types and not do the quiver that you guys speak of. My MP is
> mechanical and works well. It has had problems sticking in the past; but,
> that finally cleared up. Must have been something in the line. I'll use a
> bigger line, next time. All in all, I'm quite happy with my choices. I had
> thought about Van's gauges for the next time; but, no more.
>
> For your viewing pleasure, attached is a photo of a panel with steam gauges
> instead of a black box. I kinda like it that way. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Roy Glass and Mary Poteet <rlglass(at)alaska.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall Plans |
Try these drawings:
DWG 19 -- Firewall bulkhead (RV-6,7,9)
DWG 49 -- Fuel and brake system (RV-6)
OP-10 -- Electrical system
OP-12 -- RV-6 wiring harness
OP-26 -- Control cable (RV-7,9)
OP-27 -- Oil system (RV-7,9)
OP-28 -- Fuel system (RV-7,9)
OP-29 -- Cabin heat and manifold pressure (RV-7,9)
Charles Brame wrote:
>
>
> Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind, I have seen a drawing of the
> engine side of the firewall showing suggested locations for all the
> firewall mounted goodies plus holes for penetrating cables, etc. Now I
> can't find it. It doesn't seem to be in my Van's supplied plans, and I
> have been through my collection of RVAtors without any luck.
>
> Building a -6A. Can anyone jog my memory?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.)
> San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
Subject: | IE capacitive fuel sender system |
Anybody installing the IE capacitive system in the fuel tanks, did you
install the external bracket outside the root rib that they talk about
in the instructions? Has anyone installed the electronic interface
module yet? Would like to see a picture of what this looks like.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
Depends a lot on altitude, temp, etc but my RV6A shows around 170 MPH at
2600 RPM on 160 HP with a wood Sensenich prop. Flat out this gets to 180
indicated or a bit better. The best TAS I have recorded is 196.
allen
Allen Duberstein
Potomac Program Manager
503-712-2323
allen.duberstein(at)intel.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Larson [mailto:jpl(at)showpage.org]
Subject: RV-List: Performance
I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I
was
just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
indicated
and true.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | IE capacitive fuel sender system |
-----Original Message-----
Anybody installing the IE capacitive system in the fuel tanks, did you
install the external bracket outside the root rib that they talk about
in the instructions? Has anyone installed the electronic interface
module yet? Would like to see a picture of what this looks like.
<--
Bobby,
The module is so small that the bracket is not necessary. Just a fat section
in the cable covered with heatshrink. The weight is insignificant.
By the way, you are supposed to get the interface modules when you order the
EI fuel gauge from Van's (that's why it costs a lot more than from Aircraft
Spruce). However, I didn't get them with my EI fuel gauge. I called Van's
and they told me to call EI. When I called EI, they wanted to charge me for
the modules and they explained that Van's had not specified the modules be
included when they ordered their inventory. After I whined about paying for
them twice, they shipped them to me at no charge. I suggested that they bill
Van's for them. This was more than a year ago, so hopefully, the problem has
been solved.
I'll take a picture of one of the modules tomorrow and email a copy directly
to you.
One other thing: the modules do not come with BNC connectors. You must
obtain and install these yourself. I got them from Mouser or Digkey (can't
remember - but I could look it up). EI told me that it doesn't matter if
they are 50 or 75 ohm connectors.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A
engine baffles (what a pain)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
Thanks for the suggestions guys , I will have it done in a snap .
Shane Summerhays
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Dennis Persyk wrote:>
> Perhaps the biggest factor in stall speed is the
> prop. A C/S prop acts as a
> brake whereas a F/P prop is generating considerable
> thrust at idle RPM on an
> RV.
Dennis is right. My RV-8, with O-360 and Fixed Pitch
Prop (83" pitch), almost won't stall in level flight
at moderate loading. At 3,000 feet, 65 degrees F,
idle power, 1600 pounds weight, 60 mph ias, no flaps,
she'll keep on flying in level flight until you lose
interest. This is one of the reasons this airplane is
easier to wheel land than to 3 point.
My 60 mph ias hasn't been calibrated yet, but I don't
think it's too far off, if any at all.
Just my 2 cents worth.
George
N888GK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: IE capacitive fuel sender system |
Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> Anybody installing the IE capacitive system in the fuel tanks, did you
> install the external bracket outside the root rib that they talk about
> in the instructions? Has anyone installed the electronic interface
> module yet? Would like to see a picture of what this looks like.
I have the electronic interface but haven't installed it. I made .032 3/4
angle brackets from some leftover stiffener material. So you can see how big
(or tiny, as the case may be) the EI sender unit is, I put it up against the
bracket in the pictures available here:
http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/FuelSender.html
-Dan Masys
-7A N747DL reserved, fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Maintenance Schedule |
Someone recently mentioned the 500 hour TBO on Slick Mags. This reminded me
of something that I've been thinking about since my focus has gone from
"building" to "maintaining". And that is, a "maintenance schedule" that goes
beyond the normal annual condition inspection. Kind of like the maintenance
schedule for your car -- there's all of the regular 20K mile stuff which
would be like our condition inspections, but also things like the timing
belt at 60,000 miles which would be more like our magneto O/H.
Has anyone worked up something like this? I'd like some suggestions for
what to put on mine. I have the data from the C/S prop manual (lubricate
every 6 months and at 100hr/condition inspection time, recommended O/H at
1000 hrs/60 or 72 months for aerobatic craft) the bit about the Slick Mags
(500 hr internal inspection and service), and the engine recommended TBO.
What else is there like that that would go on such a list? I know TBO for
engine, prop, etc. are recommended, not mandatory. Be that as it may, I'd
like to make up a comprehensive list for my plane of this kind of stuff.
TIA
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
Time is near to move my 6 to the airport. In order to get the plane out of
the basement I will excavate a ramp and lay a 3/4" plywood floor or maybe
2X12 "tracks" to roll the fuse up to ground level. The engine is installed
and the tail will be removed. The panel and instruments are also installed. I
estimate the weight to be around 550 lbs. I know this has been done before
[Terry, are you watching?] so I could use advise. I am thinking of towing the
fuse up the ramp with a 4WD or tractor. Question, will the tailwheel assembly
and rear bulkheads stand the stress? Or is it better to tow by the front? If
front is best how best to hook up the tow rope. Input needed! And perhaps a
little courage.Thanks guys.
Bill Griffin
Balto., MD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static RPM Solved - Was Cheap VAN's Tach
Jim said --
Snip - I know you guys have been tearing up the cheap
tachs; but, you may not be aware that all mechanical tachs will slow down,
over time. In fact, the American Yankee Association has tach checks at all
of their major events. It's that common. The AYA commonly finds tachs that
are as much as 100 rpms slow.
--------------------------------------------
And for all you from the Great White North - you may not have noticed that
Transport Canada slipped the following into the regulations when they
renamed them the CAR's. Now in addition to an annual compass swing and other
things, you may have an annual tach check.
CAR 605.86 - Appendix "C"
7. Tachometers
The accuracy of mechanical drag cup type tachometers, for fixed wing
propeller driven aircraft, shall be checked on site annually, and be
accurate to within the tolerances established by the aircraft manufacturer
or, where no tolerance has been specified by the aircraft manufacturer, to
within +\- 4% of engine RPM at mid-point of the cruise range.
(Note, thats 92 RPM error at 2300)
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
Final Assembly, 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fuselage? |
Bill, I have moved a homebuilt to the airport on two different occasions,
successfully I might add. If you can't come up with anything else check to
see if a local wrecker driver is up too it. Use their wheel dollies to rest
your mains in and attach the tail of the airplane to the boom. Worked great
for me. Your local Ryder dealer may have the wheel dolly for rent, as a do
it yourself project.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
Subject: | IO 360 Fuel Pump Plumbing |
Getting ready to hook up fuel lines to my engine and find that the inlet
and outlet on the engine driven fuel pump are not labeled. Can anyone
with an IO360 tell me looking at the pump on the rear of the engine,
does the fuel flow from left to right or vice versa.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
How far do you have to tow? I towed mine by the tail wheel spring.
Just used a pickup and made a cross bar across the bed of the pickup that
would accept the tailwhell spring. this was with out the tailwheel assembly
attached. I only had to go a couple miles but a friend of mine towed his
this way about 5 miles. Seemed to work great without any problems
Jerry Springer
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Time is near to move my 6 to the airport. In order to get the plane out of
> the basement I will excavate a ramp and lay a 3/4" plywood floor or maybe
> 2X12 "tracks" to roll the fuse up to ground level. The engine is installed
> and the tail will be removed. The panel and instruments are also installed. I
> estimate the weight to be around 550 lbs. I know this has been done before
> [Terry, are you watching?] so I could use advise. I am thinking of towing the
> fuse up the ramp with a 4WD or tractor. Question, will the tailwheel assembly
> and rear bulkheads stand the stress? Or is it better to tow by the front? If
> front is best how best to hook up the tow rope. Input needed! And perhaps a
> little courage.Thanks guys.
> Bill Griffin
> Balto., MD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
All the guy wanted to know was what most people indicate on their normal
everyday cruise.For me it's 170-180 INDICATED between 3-4000' here in
Fl.which gives 155-160 Kt on gps average. 180 hp-c/s and mostly 2380-2400
rpm.----------Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
I towed my RV4 aproximately 20 miles with tail wheel lashed to the tailgate of
my pickup when I moved several years ago. Had no problems.
Earl RV4
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Time is near to move my 6 to the airport. In order to get the plane out of
> the basement I will excavate a ramp and lay a 3/4" plywood floor or maybe
> 2X12 "tracks" to roll the fuse up to ground level. The engine is installed
> and the tail will be removed. The panel and instruments are also installed. I
> estimate the weight to be around 550 lbs. I know this has been done before
> [Terry, are you watching?] so I could use advise. I am thinking of towing the
> fuse up the ramp with a 4WD or tractor. Question, will the tailwheel assembly
> and rear bulkheads stand the stress? Or is it better to tow by the front? If
> front is best how best to hook up the tow rope. Input needed! And perhaps a
> little courage.Thanks guys.
> Bill Griffin
> Balto., MD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Transponder test |
BlankThis has been covered in the past and the EAA even had an article
on it. Many forget that being the manufacturer of an aircraft gives you
the same benefits as Boeing. See FAR 91.413(c)(3)
Dennis and Fran
Sec. 91.413
ATC transponder tests and inspections.
(a) No persons may use an ATC transponder that is specified in
91.215(a), 121.345(c), or Sec. 135.143(c) of this chapter unless, within
the preceding 24 calendar months, the ATC transponder has been tested
and inspected and found to comply with appendix F of part 43 of this
chapter; and
(b) Following any installation or maintenance on an ATC transponder
where data correspondence error could be introduced, the integrated
system has been tested, inspected, and found to comply with paragraph
(c), appendix E, of part 43 of this chapter.
(c) The tests and inspections specified in this section must be
conducted by--
(1) A certificated repair station properly equipped to perform those
functions and holding--
(i) A radio rating, Class III;
(ii) A limited radio rating appropriate to the make and model
transponder to be tested;
(iii) A limited rating appropriate to the test to be performed;
[(iv) deleted]
(2) A holder of a continuous airworthiness maintenance program as
provided in part 121 or Sec. 135.411(a)(2) of this chapter; or
(3) The manufacturer of the aircraft on which the transponder to be
tested is installed, if the transponder was installed by that
manufacturer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
sounds a little low. My -8 with 160-hp will do 180-mph (ground speed) at
8000' lightly loaded. 165-170 mph fully loaded at 8000'. Verified several
times with GPS.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I
>was
>just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
>
>The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
>
>The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
>indicated
>and true.
>
>Comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Maintenance Schedule |
One point to note about Slick Mags, when the go bad there is no downhill
slide for them. One day they will just not work. Also, in most cases it will
make more sense to replace them rather than repair them as the major
components come up about $100 less than the new mags, factor in an A&P's
labor........
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com]
Subject: RV-List: Maintenance Schedule
Someone recently mentioned the 500 hour TBO on Slick Mags. This reminded me
of something that I've been thinking about since my focus has gone from
"building" to "maintaining". And that is, a "maintenance schedule" that goes
beyond the normal annual condition inspection. Kind of like the maintenance
schedule for your car -- there's all of the regular 20K mile stuff which
would be like our condition inspections, but also things like the timing
belt at 60,000 miles which would be more like our magneto O/H.
Has anyone worked up something like this? I'd like some suggestions for
what to put on mine. I have the data from the C/S prop manual (lubricate
every 6 months and at 100hr/condition inspection time, recommended O/H at
1000 hrs/60 or 72 months for aerobatic craft) the bit about the Slick Mags
(500 hr internal inspection and service), and the engine recommended TBO.
What else is there like that that would go on such a list? I know TBO for
engine, prop, etc. are recommended, not mandatory. Be that as it may, I'd
like to make up a comprehensive list for my plane of this kind of stuff.
TIA
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | IO 360 Fuel Pump Plumbing |
If your facing the rear of the engine ( from the cockpit) the output is on
the left side of the pump, which goes to the carb or throttle body, the
intake would be on the right side closer to your prop gov adapterand vacuum
pump
-----Original Message-----
From: Henley [mailto:henley(at)seii.net]
Subject: RV-List: IO 360 Fuel Pump Plumbing
Getting ready to hook up fuel lines to my engine and find that the inlet
and outlet on the engine driven fuel pump are not labeled. Can anyone
with an IO360 tell me looking at the pump on the rear of the engine,
does the fuel flow from left to right or vice versa.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Indicated airspeeds are pretty much useless when comparing performance, due
to all the errors. At a given flight condition, you could probably change
the indicated airspeed by changing ASIs and using different types and
locations of static ports.
If you want to figure out what true air speeds you should be able to get,
check out the performance numbers that Van claims on his web site. The
CAFE reports I've seen on the RV-6A and RV-8A showed that Vans numbers are
realistic, for a well built aircraft, with a good engine and prop.
Kevin Horton
>
> >I'm trying to do some apples vs. apples judging of performance figures. I
> >was
> >just told of one configuration that'll cruise 160 MPH indicated.
> >
> >The guys with flying RVs -- what are you indicating at cruise altitude?
> >
> >The 160 sounded kinda low, but that could be the difference between
> >indicated
> >and true.
> >
> >Comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
>
> >The best sealant for ANY sealing surface
> >which has oil passages going through it, is a product called Hylomar.
> > Hylomar is a Rolls Royce aerospace product. It is manufactured under
> >license by Permatex (and others). It is approved by Lycoming. You can find
> >it at any auto parts store. It is a thick blue liquid (as made by Permatex)
> >which does not completely harden. The fact that it stays pliable will
> >prevent it from plugging up an oil passageways. This is a great feature if
> >you are of the Tim Allen persuasion. (If more is better, to much is just
> >enough!) This stuff is GREAT!
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
>
>
>Charlie,
>
>Does the Permatex version say Hylomar on the container? If not, how do we
>identify it?
>
>How did you determine what Lycoming has approved? I've looked at my
>overhaul manual, and all the Lycoming Service Letters, Service
>Instructions, etc, and I can't find anything which states which sealants
>etc Lycoming approves, except in a very few cases where a specific product
>will be mentioned for a particular use.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (engine installation & electrics)
Kevin,
Yes, the Permatex product states that it is Hylomar on the tube. I'll get
the Permatex product number for you today. I keep a tube in my toolbox. I
had RV-4 builder & A&P, IA Jody Edwards check on what sealants Lycoming
approves for sealing the crankcases. Hylomar was one of the approved sealants.
Cork gaskets are rather fragile. They are often supplied as replacement
gaskets for auto valve covers and engine & transmission oil pans. Most
sealants act as a "grease" when used on cork gaskets. This allows the cork
gasket to shift around when the bolts are tightened. Often, oil leakage is
the result. I avoid using cork gaskets on automobiles when possible. I
realize that doesn't help when dealing with certified aircraft engines.
Short of using one of the PMAed silicone replacement valve cover gaskets,
you are stuck with the cork gaskets. The best method I've found for
installing cork valve cover gaskets is as follows.
Clean the valve cover & cylinder head mating surfaces. Make sure that the
surfaces are completely clean and oil free. I like to use aerosol spray
cans of automotive brake cleaner to insure that the surfaces are oil free.
Apply a thin layer of 3M super weatherstrip adhesive (aka Gorilla snot) to
the valve cover side of the gasket. Set the gasket in the valve cover,
then remove it for 1-3 minutes. This allows the adhesive to "tack up" (much
like using contact cement) Reinstall the gasket in the valve cover. Quickly
position the gasket in the cover so that all the bolt holes line up
properly. (The adhesive becomes very sticky quickly). Leave the other
gasket surface dry and install the cover. Install and tighten up the bolts
using a nut driver. Torque to specs using a torque wrench.
The real trick to successful installation of cork gaskets is in slow and
even application of torque to the gaskets. Don't tighten the bolts down all
at once. Tighten each one a little at a time. Snug up the bolts repeatedly
till you can't tighten them with the nut driver. Set to final torque using
a torque wrench. Cork splits easily (especially near the bolt holes) if it
is not tightened up gradually.
I hope this helps. I realize that 3M weatherstrip adhesive is probably
not a Lycoming recommended product. It really works though. It's purpose is
not so much as a sealant, but as an adhesive to prevent the cork gasket
from moving during bolt tightening.
Charlie Kuss
PS As Brian Denk mentioned, RTV products work very well on crankcase front
seal installation. This is a different application. The oil seal does not
have a passageway or oil galley between the seal and the crankcase surface.
Hylormar might allow the oil seal to slide forward and come off of the
engine. RTV products not only seal but also act as an adhesive to hold the
front crankshaft oil seal in place.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and Mortar
OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really running
out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU# for this
product is 858-251. Best of luck!
If you are planning on doing anywhere map or icarus solid state efis any
time soon, this is a steal. This item is sold on most web sites for $399.
This item has just been EOl (end of life) according to a friend of mine who
works at compaq. It is for all intents and purposes "current product" and
is the same ipaq that you've heard all the good stuff about.
Don Mei
RV-4 - N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
I used a similar method...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/MVC-465X.JPG
Randy Lervold
Vancouver, WA
> How far do you have to tow? I towed mine by the tail wheel spring.
> Just used a pickup and made a cross bar across the bed of the pickup that
> would accept the tailwhell spring. this was with out the tailwheel
assembly
> attached. I only had to go a couple miles but a friend of mine towed his
> this way about 5 miles. Seemed to work great without any problems
>
> Jerry Springer
>
> Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Time is near to move my 6 to the airport. In order to get the plane out
of
> > the basement I will excavate a ramp and lay a 3/4" plywood floor or
maybe
> > 2X12 "tracks" to roll the fuse up to ground level. The engine is
installed
> > and the tail will be removed. The panel and instruments are also
installed. I
> > estimate the weight to be around 550 lbs. I know this has been done
before
> > [Terry, are you watching?] so I could use advise. I am thinking of
towing the
> > fuse up the ramp with a 4WD or tractor. Question, will the tailwheel
assembly
> > and rear bulkheads stand the stress? Or is it better to tow by the
front? If
> > front is best how best to hook up the tow rope. Input needed! And
perhaps a
> > little courage.Thanks guys.
> > Bill Griffin
> > Balto., MD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
Be forwarned that when Gorrilla Snot is used as a gasket adhesive the
gasket will never come off without serious scraping or chemical soaking.
Do not applly Gorrilla Snot to both sides of the gasket, you'll tear the
cylinder from the crankase trying to get the valve cover off. 3M means
business when they call a product an adhesive. It is good stuff.
Gary
> Apply a thin layer of 3M super weatherstrip adhesive (aka Gorilla snot) to
> the valve cover side of the gasket. Set the gasket in the valve cover,
> then remove it for 1-3 minutes. This allows the adhesive to "tack up" (much
> like using contact cement) Reinstall the gasket in the valve cover. Quickly
> position the gasket in the cover so that all the bolt holes line up
> properly. (The adhesive becomes very sticky quickly). Leave the other
> gasket surface dry and install the cover. Install and tighten up the bolts
> using a nut driver. Torque to specs using a torque wrench.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP An optical prop tach can be checked (and should be every time it's
used) by
pointing it at a florescent light. (I don't think this will work with an
incandescent bulb and my Prop Tach is at the Hanger)
At 60 Hz (North American power grid cycles per sec)
X 2 on-offs per cycle (AC power)
X 60 seconds per minute
= 7200 pulses per minute.
Prop tach set to 2 blades, rpm shows 3600,
Prop tach set to 3 blades, rpm shows 2400. SNIP
I'm glad somebody chimed in with this suggestion. It's very easy to do
after dark. Shine the light on the prop, increases the throttle slowly and
you can see every multiple RPM of 60 go by... 600..1200...1800..2400...
very easy. Try it, you'll see.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Vans tach sender |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Anybody know how Vans tach sender works (the one that plugs into the tach drive
on the accessory case and is then wired up to their tach gauge)? I'm wondering
if it is a frequency generator of some sort that might be compatible with the
Grand Rapids EIS 4000 engine monitor (which is designed to pick up pulses from
a mag P lead). I asked Vans about it and haven't received any response.
I'd rather use a pickup off the tach drive so that I don't have to depend on one
ignition source or the other to get rpm (or use a switch between the two mags
when doing a mag check).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff...
February 28, 2002 - March 06, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ml