RV-Archive.digest.vol-mm
March 06, 2002 - March 12, 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
We, Gummibear & I, have towed the HRII rocket several times. We moved it
from the original constuction garage to Hesperia Airport, then to the
welding shop of our local exhaust guy (who's building a -6A), then to Tom's
garage in Apple Valley and then to Apple Valley airport. The welder guy used
a piece of "square" tubing that fit in the smaller tow hitch of the Grand
Prix and the larger hitch on my Dodge Ram PU. He made and welded a 3" wide,
4"long, 1 1/2" deep box on the end of this 4' tube. Tube is 4' long so there
is no conflict with the tail while turning. Bent the tube twice so the
"box" was level & about 12" to 18" (GP vs Ram) off the ground. We towed with
the tail wheel strapped into this box. The complete tail and engine were
mounted. Must have towed at least 30 or so miles total without a problem.
Ran slow with flashers and a chase vehicle. For run ups on the IO540 we
tied the tail wheel down with a chain. I hope we exceeded 550# of pull.
Can't speak for the -6 but the HRII tail section was and is just fine. Do
Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: RV-List: Towing a RV6 fusalage?
> How far do you have to tow? I towed mine by the tail wheel spring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anodizing fuel caps? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Since my -8A is going to have a T-6A paint scheme, and the T-6A has red anodized
fuel caps, I decided my fuel caps have gotta be red anodized too : )
Only problem is the fuel caps we get from Vans are some sort of cast aluminum,
and the guys I've talked to who do custom anodizing say that cast aluminum often
has other metals mixed in which may result in less than desirable results when
anodizing (may be splotchy in appearance, turn black, or just not work at
all).
So, I'm wondering if anybody has tried anodizing one of Van's fuel caps, or do
any of you metallurgy gurus out there know what kind of stuff is in these caps?
Along the same line, does anybody know if there's another higher quality (i.e.
machined aluminum vs. cast) fuel cap on the market that would fit into the
RV tank filler neck?
Eagerly awaiting ya'll's opinions....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans tach sender |
mark
the tack setup i got from vans is a 3 part thing. the transducer which mounts
on the rear of the case,,it is connected by a square cable to connect to the
tack drive of the engine, to the transducer, and 4 wires go the the tack
gauge. all seems to work perfectly together, and seems very accurate,
although i did not check it against anything.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan, Mel" <jordan_mel(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Maintenance Schedule |
I think your idea is a good one. I would add the Vacuum Pump as some have a
TBO 600 hours. Since your already doing the Mags at 500 hours, play it safe
and do the Vac. Pump at the same time if you have one. Failure of the pump
is a leading cause in IFR fatal accidents.
Mel Jordan
Tucson
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Maintenance Schedule
Someone recently mentioned the 500 hour TBO on Slick Mags. This reminded me
of something that I've been thinking about since my focus has gone from
"building" to "maintaining". And that is, a "maintenance schedule" that goes
beyond the normal annual condition inspection. Kind of like the maintenance
schedule for your car -- there's all of the regular 20K mile stuff which
would be like our condition inspections, but also things like the timing
belt at 60,000 miles which would be more like our magneto O/H.
Has anyone worked up something like this? I'd like some suggestions for
what to put on mine. I have the data from the C/S prop manual (lubricate
every 6 months and at 100hr/condition inspection time, recommended O/H at
1000 hrs/60 or 72 months for aerobatic craft) the bit about the Slick Mags
(500 hr internal inspection and service), and the engine recommended TBO.
What else is there like that that would go on such a list? I know TBO for
engine, prop, etc. are recommended, not mandatory. Be that as it may, I'd
like to make up a comprehensive list for my plane of this kind of stuff.
TIA
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
My mail system is mis-formatting my email so Matronics is stripping out the
folder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kit for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim
kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. All skins drilled to both
wings. Includes electric ailreon trim kit. ALL parts (assembled or not) are
alodined and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction
is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos included for both kits.
Priced to sell: $5000
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled
kits. The reason for selling is that my wife and I just had our first
child and I have an old house to finish rebuilding first. The tools are not
for sale; I will be keeping them to guarantee that I will build another RV
in the near future!
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-695-1987 home
716-510-0318 cell
skuebler(at)cannondesign.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
Another interesting fact in checking an optical prop tach. An 8 foot
fluorescent light will cut the observable rpm in half, or 1800 for a two
blade prop.
John Warren
RV-6 in progress
LaCenter WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Has anyone out there had experience with the Technology Kitchen EPM
tachometer/manifold pressure/% of power gauge?
Also there was a web site on the list for an electronic attitude
indicator from out on the west coast( not blue mountain) priced about
$1800. Does anyone know what that site was?
Thanks
John RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Maintenance Schedule |
> Someone recently mentioned the 500 hour TBO on Slick Mags..........
OK: what is recommended to overhaul/maintain the mags and/or where does one
get that information??
Mine are 575 hours and working............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
I think you are referring to Dynon Development, dynondevelopment.com. I
don't think they have shipped anything yet.
Terry
----- > Also there was a web site on the list for an electronic attitude
> indicator from out on the west coast( not blue mountain) priced about
> $1800. Does anyone know what that site was?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Tansponder Check |
There is no requirement for the encoder to be checked on a regular basis unless
you
are IFR. The transponder can be bench tested to comply.
Ref: 91.411, 91.413, Appendix F of part 43.
Dave
RV_8 Pilot wrote:
>
> Larry -
>
> I didn't see any responses to your question, so I'll take a stab.
> Transponder encoder checks are required basically when operating where
> they're required equipment. In a mode C veil and above 10K'. It's required
> (x-ponder use and 24 month check) by the FAR's.
>
> Reasoning? I'd imagine the feds just feel that if you're going to be "in
> the system" squawking an altitude, they want it accurate. Makes sense to
> me. You're in close proximity to airline and other IFR traffic in a mode C
> veil and when above 10K'.
>
> Also, the check has to be done by a certified shop/tech. I looked into this
> extensively and came to the conclusion that you can't self certify, even as
> a homebuilder.
>
> I spent about $100 for my last check. The tech "tuned" my system while
> checking it out. The performance improvement was noticable afterwards,
> based on my lack of complaints and range from ATC facilities. Before, I'd
> have problems with them "seeing" me occasionally.
>
> This basic x-ponder/encoder check is different than the pitot static system
> check required if operating IFR.
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >My question is why are transponder checks required? It's easy to know if
> >it is working or not. ATC picks us up, they get the correct discrete
> >code and the altitude checks.
> >
> >Why do we have to pay all the money to the radio shop, in my case to
> >someone who doesn't know what they are doing, and in my case to someone
> >who does even less than the functional check referred to above.
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Maintenance Schedule |
The isn't a 500 hr. TBO on Slicks. There is, just like on a Bendix. a 500
hour inspection as well as a 1000 hour inspection which is listed in the
master service manual.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Maintenance Schedule
> Someone recently mentioned the 500 hour TBO on Slick Mags..........
OK: what is recommended to overhaul/maintain the mags and/or where does one
get that information??
Mine are 575 hours and working............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Towing a RV6 fusalage? |
If you pull it up the ramp by the tail remember that it's VERY nose heavy without
the tail and wings and will go up on it's nose quite easily.
Dave
Rv6238(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Time is near to move my 6 to the airport. In order to get the plane out of
> the basement I will excavate a ramp and lay a 3/4" plywood floor or maybe
> 2X12 "tracks" to roll the fuse up to ground level. The engine is installed
> and the tail will be removed. The panel and instruments are also installed. I
> estimate the weight to be around 550 lbs. I know this has been done before
> [Terry, are you watching?] so I could use advise. I am thinking of towing the
> fuse up the ramp with a 4WD or tractor. Question, will the tailwheel assembly
> and rear bulkheads stand the stress? Or is it better to tow by the front? If
> front is best how best to hook up the tow rope. Input needed! And perhaps a
> little courage.Thanks guys.
> Bill Griffin
> Balto., MD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Sizes |
our T-hangar is, I believe, 39' wide. Using a winch and a ramp we have
two -6a's straight in. The wings overlap and the wingtip of the plane on
the ground actually fits between the other's wheelpant and underside of the
wing. It's tight but saves us $118/mo. It is nice to have the plane up on
the 24" ramp while working on wheel pants too. Another pair of RV's have
copied our set-up. We winch the planes by the nose wheel bolts that hold on
the wheel pant. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IE capacitive fuel sender system |
Dan Masys wrote:
>
> Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> >
> > Anybody installing the IE capacitive system in the fuel tanks, did you
> > install the external bracket outside the root rib that they talk about
> > in the instructions? Has anyone installed the electronic interface
> > module yet? Would like to see a picture of what this looks like.
>
> I have the electronic interface but haven't installed it. I made .032 3/4
> angle brackets from some leftover stiffener material. So you can see how big
> (or tiny, as the case may be) the EI sender unit is, I put it up against the
> bracket in the pictures available here:
>
> http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/FuelSender.html
>
> -Dan Masys
> -7A N747DL reserved, fuse
I guess since the IE Gauge is so cheap they cannot afford to put a BNC connector
on the end of the wire.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO 360 Fuel Pump Plumbing |
I have an IO-360 180hp with a Bendix injector servo. In my case, fuel flow
is from right to left, viewed from the rear.
Walt Shipley RV8A N314TS
----------
> From: Henley <henley(at)seii.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: IO 360 Fuel Pump Plumbing
> Date: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 7:56 AM
>
>
> Getting ready to hook up fuel lines to my engine and find that the inlet
> and outlet on the engine driven fuel pump are not labeled. Can anyone
> with an IO360 tell me looking at the pump on the rear of the engine,
> does the fuel flow from left to right or vice versa.
>
> John Henley
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Burton" <jdburton(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Flying around in an F18 without a canopy is bad. pix URL |
Per the message below, the url for the F-18 pis is:
(that's right -- no www, no http, just type it in as presented).
Thanks to Scott and to Don Gates for sending them --
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: flying around in an F18 without a canopy is bad..
> John,
> The URL keeps getting stripped out when I send the email. Could you
please
>
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
John,
Have been using one for over 200 hrs. What do you want to know about it?
Bill RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tach/MP
>
> Has anyone out there had experience with the Technology Kitchen EPM
> tachometer/manifold pressure/% of power gauge?
>
> Also there was a web site on the list for an electronic attitude
> indicator from out on the west coast( not blue mountain) priced about
> $1800. Does anyone know what that site was?
>
> Thanks
> John RV6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IE capacitive fuel sender system |
The converter module has a little ring terminal on each of the two wires.
EI has a capacitance sender unit that these work with. There are two tiny
screws that attach the two terminals. The designer of Van's senders came up
with a BNC type connection instead. So the little ring terminals are
snipped off (unless one has devised a way to hook up the BNC by using the
ring terminals).
What I did was to cut off the ring terminals. Attach a piece of coax(about
2 1/2" long) to the mating BNC connecter as you normally would. Strip the
insulation off for about an inch down to the shield and unwravel the shield
and then twist it back together to make a pigtail. One of the converter
wires attaches to the pigtail. Take off more insulation off down to the
center conductor. The other converter wire attaches to the center
conductor. I used butt splices on both wires. I used shrink wrap on the
center connection and then larger shrink wrap over the whole mess to add
protection. The BNC coax exits out of one end of the shrinkwrap and the
long wires that connect to the guage exit out the other.
There may be other ways to connect, but I like this the best. I know you
are already thinking about which wire attaches to the center conductor. The
answer is, it doesn't matter!
Sorry, no pics,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: IE capacitive fuel sender system
>
> Dan Masys wrote:
>
> >
> > Bobby Hester wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Anybody installing the IE capacitive system in the fuel tanks, did you
> > > install the external bracket outside the root rib that they talk about
> > > in the instructions? Has anyone installed the electronic interface
> > > module yet? Would like to see a picture of what this looks like.
> >
> > I have the electronic interface but haven't installed it. I made .032
3/4
> > angle brackets from some leftover stiffener material. So you can see
how big
> > (or tiny, as the case may be) the EI sender unit is, I put it up against
the
> > bracket in the pictures available here:
> >
> > http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/FuelSender.html
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> > -7A N747DL reserved, fuse
>
> I guess since the IE Gauge is so cheap they cannot afford to put a BNC
connector
> on the end of the wire.
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pro Seal & Fuel Lube |
Gents,
Pro-Seal
I have an RV 7A QB kit so my tanks are already done. I need a small amount
of Proseal for various jobs like sealing the firewall, cover on the tank, etc.
Two questions:
How much do I really need? pint? quart?
Aircraft Spruce lists a "Pro-seal type" tank sealant (PN 09-38510) Type B-2
(Mil spec 8802E) in a poly bag with nozzle that looks like a lot less messy
alternative. Is this stuff the same as Pro-seal? Anybody used it?
Fuel Lube
The manual says to use Fuel Lube on gas and oil fittings. In Aircraft Spruce
Fuel Lube is listed as $23 a pound. Right below it in the catalog is a
product called Bakerseal in smaller quantities. Is this an equivalent
product?
John McDonnell (RV7A Fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Transponder Check |
I recently had the IFR and Transponder check done for $250 at a local
avionics shop. Interestingly, for $250 they did not do any actual
calibrations. Apparently adjustments cost extra. I found this out when after
I got the cert and logbook stickers, the encoder was squawking 300 above
altitude with ATC. I am not sure if it is shoddy workmanship with the
avionics shop or what. After finding out that an actual "calibration" would
cost additional beyond the standard pitot/static & correspondence cert. I
proceeded to adjust the encoder myself (knowing that my altimeter was
officially certified as reference). A friend of mine with a certified a/c
experienced a similar situation when he had is IFR/TPX cert done at Pacific
Coast Avionics. They charged him an additional $70 beyond the $250 to adjust
the little screw in the altimeter so it would read airport elevation
correctly.
moral of the story: adjust your altimeter and encoder yourself before you
get it certified because they will charge you for any adjustments. I was
able to adjust my encoder easily because my Garmin GPS reports the gray code
alt from the encoder. My understanding is that the FAR's allow a tolerance
of +- 125 feet of encoder correspondence and the altimeter is 75 feet or
less. With a little patience you can calibrate the encoder much better than
an avionics shop is required to.
robin wessel
RV-6A flying
http://robin.getbiz.net
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
I am trying to figure out how to swap out the dual magneto on my engine.
It's an IO360A1B6D that came out of a Cessna 177. The objective is to
replace the dual magneto with a single unit to pair up with an
electronic ignition. I contacted Bendix (TCM) and the tech rep told me
the magneto to use and to get the driven gear from an IO360A1B engine.
These are available, pricey, but the unknown seems to be placing the
gear at the right depth. The tech rep thought that spacers would be
required to position the gear.
Anyway has anyone tried this and what was the result?
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Magneto Swap] |
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:32:01 -0500
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Magneto Swap
I am trying to figure out how to swap out the dual magneto on my engine.
It's an IO360A1B6D that came out of a Cessna 177. The objective is to
replace the dual magneto with a single unit to pair up with an
electronic ignition. I contacted Bendix (TCM) and the tech rep told me
the magneto to use and to get the driven gear from an IO360A1B engine.
These are available, pricey, but the unknown seems to be placing the
gear at the right depth. The tech rep thought that spacers would be
required to position the gear.
Anyway has anyone tried this and what was the result?
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro Seal & Fuel Lube |
John;
Use TiteSeal.
Mike Robbins
RV8
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
> Fuel Lube
> The manual says to use Fuel Lube on gas and oil fittings.
>
> John McDonnell (RV7A Fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Magneto Swap] |
The best way is to swap out the accessory housing of the engine with an
accessory housing from an IO-360 A1A, A1B, A1B6, or A1C engine.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bean
Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: Magneto Swap]
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:32:01 -0500
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Magneto Swap
I am trying to figure out how to swap out the dual magneto on my engine.
It's an IO360A1B6D that came out of a Cessna 177. The objective is to
replace the dual magneto with a single unit to pair up with an
electronic ignition. I contacted Bendix (TCM) and the tech rep told me
the magneto to use and to get the driven gear from an IO360A1B engine.
These are available, pricey, but the unknown seems to be placing the
gear at the right depth. The tech rep thought that spacers would be
required to position the gear.
Anyway has anyone tried this and what was the result?
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
Finn
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
>
> OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and Mortar
> OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really running
> out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU# for this
> product is 858-251. Best of luck!
>
> If you are planning on doing anywhere map or icarus solid state efis any
> time soon, this is a steal. This item is sold on most web sites for $399.
> This item has just been EOl (end of life) according to a friend of mine who
> works at compaq. It is for all intents and purposes "current product" and
> is the same ipaq that you've heard all the good stuff about.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static/Transponder Check |
Okay Robin, I think this is a great topic for the Home Wing meeting. I'll
bring my transponder to the April meeting and we can calibrate it before I
take it in for it's bi-annual.
M
>
>I recently had the IFR and Transponder check done for $250 at a local
>avionics shop. Interestingly, for $250 they did not do any actual
>calibrations. Apparently adjustments cost extra. I found this out when after
>I got the cert and logbook stickers, the encoder was squawking 300 above
>altitude with ATC. I am not sure if it is shoddy workmanship with the
>avionics shop or what. After finding out that an actual "calibration" would
>cost additional beyond the standard pitot/static & correspondence cert. I
>proceeded to adjust the encoder myself (knowing that my altimeter was
>officially certified as reference). A friend of mine with a certified a/c
>experienced a similar situation when he had is IFR/TPX cert done at Pacific
>Coast Avionics. They charged him an additional $70 beyond the $250 to adjust
>the little screw in the altimeter so it would read airport elevation
>correctly.
>
>moral of the story: adjust your altimeter and encoder yourself before you
>get it certified because they will charge you for any adjustments. I was
>able to adjust my encoder easily because my Garmin GPS reports the gray code
>alt from the encoder. My understanding is that the FAR's allow a tolerance
>of +- 125 feet of encoder correspondence and the altimeter is 75 feet or
>less. With a little patience you can calibrate the encoder much better than
>an avionics shop is required to.
>
>robin wessel
>RV-6A flying
>http://robin.getbiz.net
>Tigard, OR
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | Need your help (not RV related) |
Hello,
As some of you know, I had to quit building my RV7A. But now I am
planning start next year a Professional Pilot Career and here is when I
need your help and tips. I need you to tell me what of the following
flight training schools is the best:
Flight Safety (the best for me, but too expensive!)
American Flyers
ComAir Academy
Phoenix East Aviation
Tyler School of Aeronautics
Or what school you recommend..??
Thanks and sorry for the not related RV question..
Daniel Estrada F
Mexico City
ex--RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need your help (not RV related) |
In a message dated 3/6/2002 9:04:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
> As some of you know, I had to quit building my RV7A. But now I am
> planning start next year a Professional Pilot Career and here is when I
> need your help and tips. I need you to tell me what of the following
> flight training schools is the best:
>
> Flight Safety (the best for me, but too expensive!)
> American Flyers
> ComAir Academy
> Phoenix East Aviation
> Tyler School of Aeronautics
>
> Or what school you recommend..??
A buddy of mine (and maybe one of the 9/11 terrorists, although not
concurrently) were trained at Embry-Riddle.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant on Lycoming's |
Whoops!
Perhaps I should have been more specific in my instructions. ( I didn't
recommend using it on both sides of the gasket) As Gary noted, you only
apply adhesive between the valve cover (or other removable part) and the
gasket. To easily remove difficult gaskets, use your right angle die
grinder with the 2" Roloc ScotchBrite disks. Many years before I ever used
one of these tools to de burr sheet aluminium, I was using it on vehicles
to remove old gaskets and clean up gasket mating surfaces.
Charlie Kuss
>Be forwarned that when Gorrilla Snot is used as a gasket adhesive the
>gasket will never come off without serious scraping or chemical soaking.
>Do not applly Gorrilla Snot to both sides of the gasket, you'll tear the
>cylinder from the crankase trying to get the valve cover off. 3M means
>business when they call a product an adhesive. It is good stuff.
>
>Gary
>
> > Apply a thin layer of 3M super weatherstrip adhesive (aka Gorilla snot) to
> > the valve cover side of the gasket. Set the gasket in the valve cover,
> > then remove it for 1-3 minutes. This allows the adhesive to "tack up" (much
> > like using contact cement) Reinstall the gasket in the valve cover. Quickly
> > position the gasket in the cover so that all the bolt holes line up
> > properly. (The adhesive becomes very sticky quickly). Leave the other
> > gasket surface dry and install the cover. Install and tighten up the bolts
> > using a nut driver. Torque to specs using a torque wrench.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying around in an F18 without a canopy is bad. pix URL |
I'd say hang a big OPPS! on that one.
--- John Burton wrote:
>
>
> Per the message below, the url for the F-18 pis is:
>
>
> (that's right -- no www, no http, just type it in as presented).
>
> Thanks to Scott and to Don Gates for sending them --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
Expansion slot: CompactFlash
Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
PC compatible: Yes
Mac compatible: No
PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000 for
USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
Handwriting recognition: Yes
Keyboard: On-screen
User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
calendar
Memo pad: Yes
Address book: Yes
Scheduler: Yes
E-mail: Yes
Web browser: Yes
Security: Password protection
Stereo: Yes
Built-in speaker: Yes
Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
Voice recorder: Yes
MP3 playback: Yes
Audible content playback: Yes
AC adapter included: Yes
Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
Batteries included: Yes
Average battery life: 12 hours
Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
USB: Yes
Infrared: Yes
Wireless: Yes
Docking cradle: USB cradle included
PC cable: Yes
Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
Width: 3.28 inches
Height: 0.62 inches
Depth: 5.11 inches
Weight: 6.3 ounces
Warranty, parts: 1 year
Warranty, labor: 1 year
>
> Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
>
> Finn
>
> Donald Mei wrote:
>
> >
> > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> >
> > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and Mortar
> > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
running
> > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU# for
this
> > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
RV-List Digest Server
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Engine long-term storage trick |
I am in the process of setting my O-540 Lycoming up for long term
storage and needed to seal off the exhaust ports from ambient air (to
keep moisture from harming the valve stem,face & seat ect..)I used the
dryer plugs as most folks do and needed a cheap, quick way of sealing
the exhaust ports on all the jugs. Off to the sports store to get 6
handball balls and two racketball balls. Jammed one of the racketball
balls into the hollow crankshaft cavatity (after spraying LPS-2 in
there) and jammed a (smaller) handball ball into the exhaust post. The
rubber in the balls sealed the openings, and the color dosen't look all
that bad either. 24 quarts of oil there so far too......hope there isn't
much room left, that oil is expensive......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan, Mel" <jordan_mel(at)ti.com> |
GV
None of the terrorists of 9/11 were trained at Embry-Riddle. However, First
Officers David M. Charlebois on AA77 was a Riddle graduate. In the days
following 9/11, when all the press were on a witch hunt to blame flight
training for the acts of these fanatics, Embry-Riddle was incorrectly
identified as having trained one of the terrorists. This was later proven
not correct. The person Embry-Riddle trained that shared a similar name
with one of the terrorists, is currently an airline captain.
Mel Jordan
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need your help (not RV related)
In a message dated 3/6/2002 9:04:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
> As some of you know, I had to quit building my RV7A. But now I am
> planning start next year a Professional Pilot Career and here is when I
> need your help and tips. I need you to tell me what of the following
> flight training schools is the best:
>
> Flight Safety (the best for me, but too expensive!)
> American Flyers
> ComAir Academy
> Phoenix East Aviation
> Tyler School of Aeronautics
>
> Or what school you recommend..??
A buddy of mine (and maybe one of the 9/11 terrorists, although not
concurrently) were trained at Embry-Riddle.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Engine long-term storage trick |
philip condon wrote:
>
> 24 quarts of oil there so far too......hope there isn't much room left, that
oil is expensive......
You did use the cheapest automotive oil you could find, didn't you? :-)
No need to pour the good stuff in just to pickle the engine.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Plumbing Woes?!? |
Why is it so difficult to plumb the airspeed with the
pito tube, the altimeter and vertical speed with the
static. And then theirs the vacuum lines that need an
airfilter for intake and vacuum regulator that leads
to the vacuum pump. I understand the process!!!
What I don't understand is why I can't make it work.
The back of the airspeed requires 1/8" threads with a
1/4" barb to conect a hose that measures 1/4" ID which
I think is 3/8"OD. But a 3/8"OD will not work for the
T-Connectors that have 1/8" threads to screw into the
altimeter and have 1/4"OD connectors!
And then theirs the vacuum connections that require
1/4" threads with a 3/8" barb. Do you use plastic
lines?
I am so frustrated with this plumbing!!!!
Dan DeNeal
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Engine long-term storage trick |
You mean I did not have to pay all that money for Shell "2F" oil???
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: Engine long-term storage trick
>
>
> philip condon wrote:
> >
>
>
> > 24 quarts of oil there so far too......hope there isn't much room left,
that oil is expensive......
>
>
> You did use the cheapest automotive oil you could find, didn't you? :-)
>
> No need to pour the good stuff in just to pickle the engine.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHUCK STRATMAN" <Pilot93434(at)kscable.com> |
| Subject: | Cessna Master Switch |
Posters,
I recived a real nice split master switch from ACS, however there is no
wiring diagram with it. Does any one know where to find a good (labled)
wire schematic for this switch or has one I can rent? This switch has 6
terminals, 2 singles and 2 doubled up.
Chuck Stratman
wiring N118JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Castellano" <tcastell(at)bestweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Magneto Swap] |
I converted a Lycoming O360-A1F6D, which also came from a Cessna Cardinal,
from the
Dual Bendix mag to a single Slick mag (with impulse coupler). The gear from
the Bendix mag
fit the Slick mag perfectly. The only thing I had to do was turn down the
diameter of the flat
washer a small amount.
I installed a Jeff Rose (Electroair) electronic ignition for the other set
of plugs. Jeff offers a
split gear as the pickup which is easily installed on the forward end of the
crank.
I discussed this previously on the list, so if you search the archives, you
can get more detailed
information. ie mag model numbers etc.
Tony Castellano
tcastell(at)bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: Magneto Swap]
>
>
> Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:32:01 -0500
> From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Magneto Swap
>
> I am trying to figure out how to swap out the dual magneto on my engine.
> It's an IO360A1B6D that came out of a Cessna 177. The objective is to
> replace the dual magneto with a single unit to pair up with an
> electronic ignition. I contacted Bendix (TCM) and the tech rep told me
> the magneto to use and to get the driven gear from an IO360A1B engine.
> These are available, pricey, but the unknown seems to be placing the
> gear at the right depth. The tech rep thought that spacers would be
> required to position the gear.
>
> Anyway has anyone tried this and what was the result?
>
> TIA Jim Bean
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro Seal & Fuel Lube |
John,
A lot of people use the term "pro seal" to describe all fuel tank sealants,
just as some people refer to any soft drink as a "coke". In this case there
are many companies manufacturing sealants, Coast Pro Seal Co. is just one of
them. All fuel tank sealants are manufactured to a Military Specification
(Mil Spec). A few Mil Spec fuel tank sealants are: Mil-S-8802,
Mil-S-83318(1), Mil-S-8802D, Mil-S-83430, and PS 890. All of these Mil
Specs will have additional numbers/letters that further define the sealant,
an example of a complete Mil Spec is Mil-S-8802-B-2. The alpha following
the base number (in this case "B") indicates the viscosity, type A sealants
are thin and type B is much thicker. Normally type A sealants are applied
with a brush and type B with a spachula, either type can be used in an
injection gun. The last number in the sequence is the application time in
hours, in this case 2 hours. All of these sealants are polysulfide type and
cure time is based on a standard atmosphere, changes in humidity and
temperature can increase, or decrease the cure time.
There are hundreds of types of sealants used in the aero-space industry,
however not all of them that look, smell, and taste like the fuel tank
sealants listed above are fuel resistant! The Mil Spec for fuel tank
sealants specifies that the product is "Sealing compound, integral fuel
tanks and fuel cell cavities", as long as this description is on the
container it should be safe to use as a fuel tank sealer.
As for the "sem Kit", it IS a lot messy, but at a cost. It contains the
curing compound (black stuff) in the tube which is mixed with the base
compound (white stuff) when the plunger is extended. In other words it is
designed to be mixed, used and the balance tossed. It is probably smarter
to just go ahead and buy a pint of the PS 890 and mix what you need. If you
keep the unmixed materials in a refrigerator (your beer frig, not with food
products), it will last a long time.
I hope this helps.
Bob Hasson
Tucson, AZ
RV-6A
188 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 8:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pro Seal & Fuel Lube
>
>Gents,
>
>Pro-Seal
>I have an RV 7A QB kit so my tanks are already done. I need a small amount
>of Proseal for various jobs like sealing the firewall, cover on the tank,
etc.
>
>Two questions:
>
>How much do I really need? pint? quart?
>
>Aircraft Spruce lists a "Pro-seal type" tank sealant (PN 09-38510) Type B-2
>(Mil spec 8802E) in a poly bag with nozzle that looks like a lot less
messy
>alternative. Is this stuff the same as Pro-seal? Anybody used it?
>
>Fuel Lube
>The manual says to use Fuel Lube on gas and oil fittings. In Aircraft
Spruce
>Fuel Lube is listed as $23 a pound. Right below it in the catalog is a
>product called Bakerseal in smaller quantities. Is this an equivalent
>product?
>
>John McDonnell (RV7A Fuse)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna Master Switch |
>
>Posters,
>I recived a real nice split master switch from ACS, however there is no
>wiring diagram with it. Does any one know where to find a good (labled)
>wire schematic for this switch or has one I can rent? This switch has 6
>terminals, 2 singles and 2 doubled up.
>
>Chuck Stratman
>wiring N118JR
>
>
I have the same switch in my airplane. No schematic needed. It's just two
independent rocker switches. Put an ohmmeter across the terminals to see
what opens up and what closes when the switches are activated. The doubled
up terminals are common to each other so you can hook up other wires to the
same electrical point, such as ones that could go to an overvoltage relay,
panel indicator, etc.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
277 hrs.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Static pickup for RV6 |
Listers,
Van's sells a static port kit for the RV6, how essential is this? I only
intend to fly VFR and therefore is a pickup in the cockpit sufficient?
Your thoughts, experience and advise.
David Roseblade
RV6 Finishing kit
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
monochrome!
That's why the much lower price. The screen!
Finn
Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
> >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
>
> Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
> Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
> Expansion slot: CompactFlash
> Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
> Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
> Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
> Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
> Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
> Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
> Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
> PC compatible: Yes
> Mac compatible: No
> PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000 for
> USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
> Handwriting recognition: Yes
> Keyboard: On-screen
> User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
> calendar
> Memo pad: Yes
> Address book: Yes
> Scheduler: Yes
> E-mail: Yes
> Web browser: Yes
> Security: Password protection
> Stereo: Yes
> Built-in speaker: Yes
> Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
> Voice recorder: Yes
> MP3 playback: Yes
> Audible content playback: Yes
> AC adapter included: Yes
> Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
> Batteries included: Yes
> Average battery life: 12 hours
> Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
> USB: Yes
> Infrared: Yes
> Wireless: Yes
> Docking cradle: USB cradle included
> PC cable: Yes
> Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
> Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
> Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
> Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
> Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
> Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
> Width: 3.28 inches
> Height: 0.62 inches
> Depth: 5.11 inches
> Weight: 6.3 ounces
> Warranty, parts: 1 year
> Warranty, labor: 1 year
>
> >
> > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
> >
> > Finn
> >
> > Donald Mei wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> > >
> > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and Mortar
> > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
> running
> > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU# for
> this
> > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> > >
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
Don Mei originally said that OfficeMax was selling the 3635 for that low
price. 3635 is the color model, not the monochrome. I've never seen the
monochrome model anywhere.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers
Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
monochrome!
That's why the much lower price. The screen!
Finn
Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
> >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
>
> Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
> Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
> Expansion slot: CompactFlash
> Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
> Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
> Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
> Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
> Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
> Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
> Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
> PC compatible: Yes
> Mac compatible: No
> PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000
for
> USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
> Handwriting recognition: Yes
> Keyboard: On-screen
> User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
> calendar
> Memo pad: Yes
> Address book: Yes
> Scheduler: Yes
> E-mail: Yes
> Web browser: Yes
> Security: Password protection
> Stereo: Yes
> Built-in speaker: Yes
> Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
> Voice recorder: Yes
> MP3 playback: Yes
> Audible content playback: Yes
> AC adapter included: Yes
> Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
> Batteries included: Yes
> Average battery life: 12 hours
> Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
> USB: Yes
> Infrared: Yes
> Wireless: Yes
> Docking cradle: USB cradle included
> PC cable: Yes
> Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
> Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
> Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
> Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
> Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
> Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
> Width: 3.28 inches
> Height: 0.62 inches
> Depth: 5.11 inches
> Weight: 6.3 ounces
> Warranty, parts: 1 year
> Warranty, labor: 1 year
>
> >
> > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
> >
> > Finn
> >
> > Donald Mei wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> > >
> > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and
Mortar
> > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
> running
> > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU#
for
> this
> > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> > >
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: [Fwd: Magneto Swap] |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: [Fwd: Magneto Swap] |
jIM,
I'am doing the same thing with a
0320-H2AD dual mag (D4RN-2021). It 's a harder problem than it appears to be.
It will be a month or so to I can try this mag. It is a 1200 series mag (no
part number ) right hand rotating mag with a shaft matched to the dual mag
type. This was all done by a mag shop ( only mag. shop I could find that
would help) Magneto E.R. (877)599-4859,Waylen Bruce. My advice is go with a
dual electronic ignition with a battery backup. It's been done and Jeff Rose
(Electroair) can do it.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Woes?!? |
You are correct, the plumbing is not designed to fit. I had Van's static
system kit, by the time I finished fixing all of the leaks, there is nothing
left on the plane from the original Van's kit. Not that his kit is bad, it
just doesn't fit anything else in my system.
I went to the local hardware store and bought about one of each of
everything they had in plastic tubing and connectors, spices etc. Van's
system leaked, hardware store system doesn't. Van's system does not fit
connectors, hardware store does. I am sure someone has been able to make
Van's system work, but not I.
Bob
> What I don't understand is why I can't make it work.
> The back of the airspeed requires 1/8" threads with a
> 1/4" barb to conect a hose that measures 1/4" ID which
> I think is 3/8"OD. But a 3/8"OD will not work for the
> T-Connectors that have 1/8" threads to screw into the
> altimeter and have 1/4"OD connectors!
>
> And then theirs the vacuum connections that require
> 1/4" threads with a 3/8" barb. Do you use plastic
> lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
Because he said 3635.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers
>
> Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
> monochrome!
>
> That's why the much lower price. The screen!
>
> Finn
>
> Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
> >
> > >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
> >
> > Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
> > Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
> > Expansion slot: CompactFlash
> > Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
> > Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
> > Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
> > Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
> > Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
> > Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
> > Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
> > PC compatible: Yes
> > Mac compatible: No
> > PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000
for
> > USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
> > Handwriting recognition: Yes
> > Keyboard: On-screen
> > User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
> > calendar
> > Memo pad: Yes
> > Address book: Yes
> > Scheduler: Yes
> > E-mail: Yes
> > Web browser: Yes
> > Security: Password protection
> > Stereo: Yes
> > Built-in speaker: Yes
> > Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
> > Voice recorder: Yes
> > MP3 playback: Yes
> > Audible content playback: Yes
> > AC adapter included: Yes
> > Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
> > Batteries included: Yes
> > Average battery life: 12 hours
> > Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
> > USB: Yes
> > Infrared: Yes
> > Wireless: Yes
> > Docking cradle: USB cradle included
> > PC cable: Yes
> > Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
> > Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
> > Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
> > Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync
3.1,
> > Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
> > Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
> > Width: 3.28 inches
> > Height: 0.62 inches
> > Depth: 5.11 inches
> > Weight: 6.3 ounces
> > Warranty, parts: 1 year
> > Warranty, labor: 1 year
> >
> > >
> > > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > > Donald Mei wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> > > >
> > > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and
Mortar
> > > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is
on
> > > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
> > running
> > > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU#
for
> > this
> > > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> > > >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Static pickup for RV6 |
David,
The pressure in the cabin is different then the static source outside, and would
give you incorrect altitude indications if only sensing inside pressure.
The other people flying in the system (be it IFR or VFR) expect you to be at the
altitude your supposed to be at. I know I would appreciate it in case we ever
fly near each other (althought I don't plan any trips to the UAE in my RV anytime
soon).
I'd recommend plumbing like Vans recommends. It's simple and adds very little weight.
Regards,
Laird 440 hrs
RV-6 SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Mar 7, 2002 10:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Static pickup for RV6
Listers,
Van's sells a static port kit for the RV6, how essential is this? I only
intend to fly VFR and therefore is a pickup in the cockpit sufficient?
Your thoughts, experience and advise.
David Roseblade
RV6 Finishing kit
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static pickup for RV6 |
It's easy to install, and cheap. Good insurance for an accurate altimiter
and airspeed, even if you are flying VFR. (So do I).
Personally, I like the Cleveland kit much better.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roseblade" <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-List: Static pickup for RV6
>
> Listers,
>
> Van's sells a static port kit for the RV6, how essential is this? I only
> intend to fly VFR and therefore is a pickup in the cockpit sufficient?
>
> Your thoughts, experience and advise.
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6 Finishing kit
> Dubai, UAE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Static pickup for RV6 |
There is another down side to an in-cabin static port. The cabin
pressure will change as you change the amount of outside air coming
into or leaving the cabin. So if you open or close a vent, or change
the setting of the cabin heat box, you'll affect the sensed static
pressure.
Most people seem to only think this is an issue with the altimeter,
but the airspeed indicator uses static pressure too. So, if you want
a consistent indicated airspeed for any given flight condition (e.g.
at the stall), you need a consistent static pressure source.
Granted, the errors in static pressure will be smaller at low speed,
but it still seems like a good idea to have a static source that
gives a consistent static pressure.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>David,
>
>The pressure in the cabin is different then the static source
>outside, and would give you incorrect altitude indications if only
>sensing inside pressure.
>
>The other people flying in the system (be it IFR or VFR) expect you
>to be at the altitude your supposed to be at. I know I would
>appreciate it in case we ever fly near each other (althought I don't
>plan any trips to the UAE in my RV anytime soon).
>
>I'd recommend plumbing like Vans recommends. It's simple and adds
>very little weight.
>
>Regards,
>
>Laird 440 hrs
>RV-6 SoCal
>From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Mar 7, 2002 10:23 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Static pickup for RV6
>To: RV List
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Van's sells a static port kit for the RV6, how essential is this? I only
>intend to fly VFR and therefore is a pickup in the cockpit sufficient?
>
>Your thoughts, experience and advise.
>
>David Roseblade
>RV6 Finishing kit
>Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
If you want one, run, don't walk, to the phone & start
calling Office Depots til you find one. It's the 3650
bundled with the 'cf' sleeve. I just bought the last one
here in my hometown.
Of course, it will be worth about $50 in 6 months when the
3rd generation models are released. :-)
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
> monochrome!
>
> That's why the much lower price. The screen!
>
> Finn
>
> Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
> >
> > >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
> >
> > Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
> > Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
> > Expansion slot: CompactFlash
> > Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
> > Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
> > Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
> > Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
> > Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
> > Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
> > Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
> > PC compatible: Yes
> > Mac compatible: No
> > PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000 for
> > USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
> > Handwriting recognition: Yes
> > Keyboard: On-screen
> > User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
> > calendar
> > Memo pad: Yes
> > Address book: Yes
> > Scheduler: Yes
> > E-mail: Yes
> > Web browser: Yes
> > Security: Password protection
> > Stereo: Yes
> > Built-in speaker: Yes
> > Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
> > Voice recorder: Yes
> > MP3 playback: Yes
> > Audible content playback: Yes
> > AC adapter included: Yes
> > Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
> > Batteries included: Yes
> > Average battery life: 12 hours
> > Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
> > USB: Yes
> > Infrared: Yes
> > Wireless: Yes
> > Docking cradle: USB cradle included
> > PC cable: Yes
> > Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
> > Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
> > Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
> > Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
> > Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
> > Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
> > Width: 3.28 inches
> > Height: 0.62 inches
> > Depth: 5.11 inches
> > Weight: 6.3 ounces
> > Warranty, parts: 1 year
> > Warranty, labor: 1 year
> >
> > >
> > > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > > Donald Mei wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> > > >
> > > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and Mortar
> > > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> > > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
> > running
> > > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU# for
> > this
> > > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> > > >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Woes?!? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Plumbing Woes?!?
> What I don't understand is why I can't make it work.
> Dan DeNeal
Dan: The nature of your difficulty is not quite clear to me but here are
some things to consider:
Most of the pitot/static instruments have 1/8" tapered pipe threads for
their taps so several types of fittings may be used. Plastic fittings
(thread to barb) are available and can work well with clear plastic tubing.
To reduce the chance of leaks, the fittings should be of good quality and
without flash or offset at the mold parting line. Tubing should have a
smooth ID. Some tubing seems to have been extruded with worn dies so that
there are longitudinal ridges either inside or out. To further minimise the
chance of leaks an application of contact cement to the barb or threads can
be applied and assembled wet, taking care not to place the cement where it
can intrude into the airways. If instrument ports are so close together as
to preclude elbow or tee fittings, a straight fitting and a freestanding tee
or elbow may be used. When faced with the need to adapt from one diameter
to another it is possible to find tubing that will insert snugly into a
larger diameter and with the contact cement and a tie wrap or two you can
have the security and the leak resistance you need. On my -4, I used a low
pressure rubber hose from the vacuum pump to the regulator, only because of
the heat behind the engine. All the rest was clear plastic tubing. The
above applies to the larger fittings used with suction instruments too, if
you have them. This is one way to do it (not the only way).
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IE capacitive fuel sender system |
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> The converter module has a little ring terminal on each of the two wires.
> EI has a capacitance sender unit that these work with. There are two tiny
> screws that attach the two terminals. The designer of Van's senders came up
> with a BNC type connection instead. So the little ring terminals are
> snipped off (unless one has devised a way to hook up the BNC by using the
> ring terminals).
>
> What I did was to cut off the ring terminals. Attach a piece of coax(about
> 2 1/2" long) to the mating BNC connecter as you normally would. Strip the
> insulation off for about an inch down to the shield and unwravel the shield
> and then twist it back together to make a pigtail. One of the converter
> wires attaches to the pigtail. Take off more insulation off down to the
> center conductor. The other converter wire attaches to the center
> conductor. I used butt splices on both wires. I used shrink wrap on the
> center connection and then larger shrink wrap over the whole mess to add
> protection. The BNC coax exits out of one end of the shrinkwrap and the
> long wires that connect to the guage exit out the other.
>
> There may be other ways to connect, but I like this the best. I know you
> are already thinking about which wire attaches to the center conductor. The
> answer is, it doesn't matter!
Thanks for the details! That will help a lot.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro Seal & Fuel Lube |
John,
I have used both ProSeal (the kind with two separate containers), and the B2
sealant, both from Aircraft Spruce. I mostly used the B2 on my tanks
because it really was easier and less messy. You don't want to get that for
small jobs, because once you mix it up in the tube, it's a done deal...you
have to use it up or you've wasted it.
I highly recommend you buy the smallest kit of Proseal you can get and keep
it in a cool place. That stuff comes in real handy for lots of things. If
you've watched George Orndorff's videos, he uses it for things like gluing
the NACA air vents onto the fuselage sides. Proseal has a shelf life, but
from what I've heard, when it gets old it just takes longer to set up. You
won't be using it for anything really critical like your tanks anyhow. Go
for it.
Jim Bower
RV-6A Wings (almost done)
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
Could one you guys with a tilt up canopy on an RV6 measure the length
from the front at base of windshield to the aft point of canopy. I
would sure appreciate it. I am wanting to put a 6 canopy on my Emeraude
with a raised turtle deck, which appears to be a little higher than the
6.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
My sincere apologies. Sounds too incredible to be true. Especially as it lists
on
the Office Depot website (under same SKU#) at $599.99.
Finn
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> Don Mei originally said that OfficeMax was selling the 3635 for that low
> price. 3635 is the color model, not the monochrome. I've never seen the
> monochrome model anywhere.
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 10:09 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers
>
>
> Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
> monochrome!
>
> That's why the much lower price. The screen!
>
> Finn
>
> Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
> >
> > >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
> >
> > Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
> > Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
> > Expansion slot: CompactFlash
> > Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
> > Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
> > Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
> > Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
> > Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
> > Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
> > Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
> > PC compatible: Yes
> > Mac compatible: No
> > PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000
> for
> > USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
> > Handwriting recognition: Yes
> > Keyboard: On-screen
> > User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
> > calendar
> > Memo pad: Yes
> > Address book: Yes
> > Scheduler: Yes
> > E-mail: Yes
> > Web browser: Yes
> > Security: Password protection
> > Stereo: Yes
> > Built-in speaker: Yes
> > Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
> > Voice recorder: Yes
> > MP3 playback: Yes
> > Audible content playback: Yes
> > AC adapter included: Yes
> > Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
> > Batteries included: Yes
> > Average battery life: 12 hours
> > Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
> > USB: Yes
> > Infrared: Yes
> > Wireless: Yes
> > Docking cradle: USB cradle included
> > PC cable: Yes
> > Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
> > Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
> > Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
> > Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
> > Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
> > Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
> > Width: 3.28 inches
> > Height: 0.62 inches
> > Depth: 5.11 inches
> > Weight: 6.3 ounces
> > Warranty, parts: 1 year
> > Warranty, labor: 1 year
> >
> > >
> > > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > > Donald Mei wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
> > > >
> > > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and
> Mortar
> > > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
> > > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
> > running
> > > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU#
> for
> > this
> > > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
> > > >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Training wheel guys,
What type of grease / lubricant are you guys using where the nosewheel
fork pivots on the nosegear leg? There's a zerk fitting but I don't see
a callout for specific grease type. Would the Aeroshell #5 grease used
for the wheel bearings work well for the nosewheel fork too?
Also, does the fork need to be primed (ohmygosh, did I ask a *primer*
question?). It's cold outside and I'm feeling lazy and don't want to
prime anything right now....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nosewheel fork |
Mark,
Shame on you for asking that pri**er question!
Your punishment is that you now must Alumiprep Alodine and Pri**er your nose
wheel fork.
While your at it, be sure to use the most difficult and time consuming type
of Pri**er sealer the industry has to offer.
If it's really hard to use it's bound to be better, isn't it?
Well at least that's what someone told me.
{:-)!!
I considered the environment that the fork will live and work in and epoxy
pri**er sealed mine. For that same reason I will also paint it and the
various parts including the wheel even though it will all be out of sight.
I have not yet found the answer to lubing the fork. Jump in lister's what's
best to use.
Who knows Mark? maybe You have hit on another one of those entertaining
topics that come to the surface from time to time here on the list. :) !
Keep up the good work,
Jim in Kelowna (it's late)
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: nosewheel fork
>
> Training wheel guys,
>
> What type of grease / lubricant are you guys using where the nosewheel
> fork pivots on the nosegear leg? There's a zerk fitting but I don't see
> a callout for specific grease type. Would the Aeroshell #5 grease used
> for the wheel bearings work well for the nosewheel fork too?
>
> Also, does the fork need to be primed (ohmygosh, did I ask a *primer*
> question?). It's cold outside and I'm feeling lazy and don't want to
> prime anything right now....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Info |
Wanted the group to know the 1/4" 0-200 inch pound torque wrench I purchased
from JC Whitney just passed a certification. The tolerance was 4%. Mine
was within 1/4 of a percent. I was pleasantly surprised.
Jack
RV8, wings
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
All you RV-6A builders ...
I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I saw
somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
For Sale:
RV-4 Project
Wings Complete
Tail Complete
Control Surfaces Complete
Fuse Bulkheads Complete
Parts:
Remainder of Fuse (ready to go into jig)
Cowl
Engine Mount
Canopy
Some Instruments
Complete & Updated Manuals
Videos
Must Sell - New Baby.....
$6,500
Bob Waalkes
Fas-Pak, Inc.
411 Fairfield Ave.
Michigan City, IN 46360
Phone: 219-874-7990
Phone: 888-247-9937
Fax: 219-874-7991
Email: waalkes(at)netnitco.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nose wheel fork |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Mark,
There have been several reports over the years of "over lubricating" this
item. Apparently the excess grease will ooze down onto the friction washers
and give you the permanent shakes on landing roll out.
Based on those reports, I have never used the zerk. Rather I slather a
little #5 on the rubbing surfaces and on the leg at each annual or other
removal. This has worked for me so far.
On the other matter, I too felt lazy and had a case of primer burn out, just
as you do now. My fork is unpainted. It now looks like crap. I highly
recommend you not only prime it, but give it a real serious coat of two part
epoxy primer and finish coat. That puppy is your lead dog into all the
slush rain, mud, snow and crud you will ever go in to. Not only that, it
has a nice wheel pant to keep it moist.
Denis
> From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 02:11:43 -0600
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: nosewheel fork
>
>
> Training wheel guys,
>
> What type of grease / lubricant are you guys using where the nosewheel
> fork pivots on the nosegear leg? There's a zerk fitting but I don't see
> a callout for specific grease type. Would the Aeroshell #5 grease used
> for the wheel bearings work well for the nosewheel fork too?
>
> Also, does the fork need to be primed (ohmygosh, did I ask a *primer*
> question?). It's cold outside and I'm feeling lazy and don't want to
> prime anything right now....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I had the same reservation about the fuel tank, and also avoided going into
the main spar.
The springs work good for the 6, not so easy on 6A. I used a couple of riv
nuts where it was too tough to get to the other side for a plate nut. Also
one plate nut in the wing fairing as I recall. Two or three screws seems to
be enough.
DLW
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:44:06 -0500
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings
>
>
> All you RV-6A builders ...
>
> I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
> place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
> good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I saw
> somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
> springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
Pop rivets work great on a finished airplane. There shouldn't be any reason
that you would need to take them off.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings
>
> All you RV-6A builders ...
>
> I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
> place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
> good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I
saw
> somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
> springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
Steve,
I used #6 screws into the belly skins. One in the front into the belly
skin, one center inside through the belly skin and the third ouside rear
into the belly skin/outside seat rib. The forward belly is thick enough
to tap for the #6 screws. The rear attach is only the .032 skin so I
made sure I had the outside seat rib also, this made .063 thickness(same
as front belly skin) and tapped well. The inside center one went into
the overlap the belly skins which is .063+.032, plenty thick. I figure
if they ever strip out I can use rivnuts in place of the tapped hole. So
far so good with 300 hrs. Use a manual screw driver to install the
screws and just snug them up, I have never found them loose.
I also countersunk the fairing and am not using any of the SS
countersunk washers.
Gary
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> All you RV-6A builders ...
>
> I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
> place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
> good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I saw
> somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
> springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
The upper tang on my fairing broke so I had to remove the fairing for
fixing. In my case the cuff has to be removed to remove the fairing.
Granted pop rivets are easy to drill out but screws are easier.
Gary
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Pop rivets work great on a finished airplane. There shouldn't be any reason
> that you would need to take them off.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 22 July 01
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings
>
> >
> > All you RV-6A builders ...
> >
> > I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
> > place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
> > good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I
> saw
> > somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
> > springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Huntington, Vermont
> > N227RV
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Info |
Where is you take it to be certified?
-Larry
--- Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Wanted the group to know the 1/4" 0-200 inch pound torque wrench I purchased
> from JC Whitney just passed a certification. The tolerance was 4%. Mine
> was within 1/4 of a percent. I was pleasantly surprised.
> Jack
> RV8, wings
> DSM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 tip-up canopy - roll bar's F-632 length |
Looked in RV-list and RV-6 list archives - didn't find info on my problem,
so request input of the list:
I've built my roll bar assembly (F-631/632 brace) and have it sitting on
fuelage, cleco'd
thru top skin rivet holes into F-632 brace so it is flush with F-606 baggage
wall/bulkhead (replaced interfering round head rivets in bulkhead with flush
rivets and drilled recesses in top of shim and aft angle for top skin rivets
and dimples to recess into).
Problem: The fwd edge of roll bar is now 3/4 inch fwd of the fwd edge of
the seat back
brace.
- Called and talked to Gus at Van's today to confirm that position is
OK - it is not. He said front of roll bar has to be flush with front of
seat back brace - so have to cut 3/4 inch off back of F-632
and re-drill aft angle and 2 little side angles. Gus promised he'd ask for
a change to builder's manual to tell where the two ends of the roll bar are
to be positioned, and put a note on Dwg 39 to reference Dwg 51 which shows
roll bar aligned with the vertical side longeron that canopy latch is
fastened to, which is his basis for saying roll cage and seat back should be
aligned.)
- I just exchanged a private e-mail with a builder who was at this
point 10 months ago and he said he didn't have this problem.
Anyone else have this same "F-632 is 3/4 inch too long" problem?
- ( Gus said they've never had a builder report such a thing before.
That's what they say every time I bring up a problem. Then I put it on the
list and "everyone" says, "Yeah, I had that.")
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
RV-6 QB
409-722-7259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Info |
Larry,
A pilot/A&P friend sent it to Utah. I will get the specifics for the list.
I have also had the Ia Air Guard check them in the past; they didn't charge
me a thing.
Jack
Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque Wrench Info
Where is you take it to be certified?
-Larry
> Wanted the group to know the 1/4" 0-200 inch pound torque wrench I
purchased
> from JC Whitney just passed a certification. The tolerance was 4%. Mine
> was within 1/4 of a percent. I was pleasantly surprised.
> Jack
> RV8, wings
> DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cessna wrinkle paint |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Folks,
Could anyone tell me a where I can get the grey wrinkle paint that
Cessna uses on the panels of their new 172/182/206's? I'm sure it'd be
three times the cost if I ordered it from Cessna.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360CS flying 275 hours
building F1
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 tip-up canopy - roll bar's F-632 length |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Dave:
drw 32 shows it lines up with the 605. drwg 26 shows you put the 605G
angle in there to carry the load of the 2- an 4 bolts ( drwg 39) later.
They hold the two feeties to the 605. The tillt is called out I think
about 2 7/8ths from the vertical. Now you can fix the length of the 632
brace.
Note they ask for .032 shim under the skin. You got to fit the thickness
of the plexi in there. You may want to lower that also. Will pointed this
out & I think I used .040 & I was too close.
Plan out your final rivet sequence in that area & GET THE PLASTIC OFF THE
INSIDE before you nail the pllexi down. I like too never got that off.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
>
> Looked in RV-list and RV-6 list archives - didn't find info on my
> problem,
> so request input of the list:
>
> I've built my roll bar assembly (F-631/632 brace) and have it
> sitting on
> fuelage, cleco'd
> thru top skin rivet holes into F-632 brace so it is flush with F-606
> baggage
> wall/bulkhead (replaced interfering round head rivets in bulkhead
> with flush
> rivets and drilled recesses in top of shim and aft angle for top
> skin rivets
> and dimples to recess into).
>
> Problem: The fwd edge of roll bar is now 3/4 inch fwd of the fwd
> edge of
> the seat back
> brace.
> - Called and talked to Gus at Van's today to confirm that
> position is
> OK - it is not. He said front of roll bar has to be flush with
> front of
> seat back brace - so have to cut 3/4 inch off back of F-632
> and re-drill aft angle and 2 little side angles. Gus promised he'd
> ask for
> a change to builder's manual to tell where the two ends of the roll
> bar are
> to be positioned, and put a note on Dwg 39 to reference Dwg 51 which
> shows
> roll bar aligned with the vertical side longeron that canopy latch
> is
> fastened to, which is his basis for saying roll cage and seat back
> should be
> aligned.)
> - I just exchanged a private e-mail with a builder who was at
> this
> point 10 months ago and he said he didn't have this problem.
>
> Anyone else have this same "F-632 is 3/4 inch too long" problem?
> - ( Gus said they've never had a builder report such a thing
> before.
> That's what they say every time I bring up a problem. Then I put it
> on the
> list and "everyone" says, "Yeah, I had that.")
>
> David Carter
> Nederland, Texas
> RV-6 QB
> 409-722-7259
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A gross
weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that the
builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him that
it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
weight if Van would put that in writing.
Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around this.
I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
I think your inspector is wrong. That is why it is called an experimental.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A gross
weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that the
builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him that
it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
weight if Van would put that in writing.
Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around this.
I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
Bob, you need to somehow explain to the misinformed DAR that you, not
Vans, are the manufacturer of the airplane; as the manufacturer, you can
set the GW anywhere you wish! What kind of gross weight would he require
if you had substituted rocket wings for Vans wings, or used a Mustang II
tail section, or...gasp....used a Subaru engine that Vans doesn't
endorse??
If he balks at this, show him the registration application where you
indicated the plane is a "Busick RV-6A".
If he still balks......get a DAR that knows what he is doing......and
let all the local builders know to avoid this turkey.
Or.....do the paperwork for 1600.......and fly the plane at whatever
weight you wish. ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, been flown at 1600, been flown at 1675, been flown
at 1725.......)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
=====================
Bob Busick wrote:
>
>
> I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A gross
> weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that the
> builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
>
> However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
> that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him that
> it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
> weight if Van would put that in writing.
>
> Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around this.
> I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
>
> Bob
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Gross Weight Determinations |
Van's manuals indicate a "recommended" gross weight because it is
determined by the builder. However, don't forget that as the gross
weight goes up the allowable G's goes down and whatever extra margin is
built in for the landing gear and motor mount will be reduced as well.
John Warren
RV 6 N645W
LaCenter WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
I'm in Canada where the regs a a little different, but if in the U.S. you
can change the gross weight to anything, why is there a need for an
inspection at all?
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
| Bob, you need to somehow explain to the misinformed DAR that you, not
| Vans, are the manufacturer of the airplane; as the manufacturer, you can
| set the GW anywhere you wish! What kind of gross weight would he require
| if you had substituted rocket wings for Vans wings, or used a Mustang II
| tail section, or...gasp....used a Subaru engine that Vans doesn't
| endorse??
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna wrinkle paint |
I found a grey wrinkle paint at a auto paint store.
Then painted it black. :-)
Tom
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cessna wrinkle paint
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Could anyone tell me a where I can get the grey wrinkle paint that
> Cessna uses on the panels of their new 172/182/206's? I'm sure it'd be
> three times the cost if I ordered it from Cessna.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360CS flying 275 hours
> building F1
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 interoir blank |
listers
if interested in color coordinating your interior before you do it by trail
and error, you can copy this picture , paste into paint, and have a ball
trying to decide what your interior will look like. go to the link below. its
in the yahoo photo gallary under Scott R RV6 INT. i tried to make it look
as real as i could.
enjoy
scott
tampa
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?&
.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27RV-6A/RV6A+interior+blank&.src=gr&.view=t&.last=1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
Pass his/her name to the EAA. They have a program to work with DARs.
I am sure he is mistaken. You can set any thing you want.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
>
> I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A
gross
> weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that the
> builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
>
> However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
> that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him
that
> it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
> weight if Van would put that in writing.
>
> Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around this.
> I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nosewheel fork |
> What type of grease / lubricant are you guys using where the
nosewheel
> fork pivots on the nosegear leg? There's a zerk fitting but I don't
> see a callout for specific grease type. Would the Aeroshell #5 grease
> used for the wheel bearings work well for the nosewheel fork too?
Light Plane Maintenance ran a pretty detailed grease article in June
2000. They eneded up recommended Aeroshell 6 for grease gun use
and Aeroshell 5 for our wheels.
I use Aeroshell 6 on the prop hub because it's required (can't mix
grease in prop hubs). On the advice of a local experienced A&P, I
simplified my life and just used Aeroshell 6 everywhere (prop hub,
wheels, zerks for nose gear fork). That's worked fine for 320 hrs. No
sign of excessive wear on the wheel bearings when I clean and inspect
them at each annual.
> Also, does the fork need to be primed (ohmygosh, did I ask a
*primer*
> question?). It's cold outside and I'm feeling lazy and don't want to
> prime anything right now....
I recommend priming and painting. Mine has a good solid coat of
Imron over epoxy primer, which helps protect it from the filth that
accumulates under that nose gear fairing during the year.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
It is a money making program for FAA cronnies.
My DAR spent two minutes at the plane and then asked for 350 dollars.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
>
> I'm in Canada where the regs a a little different, but if in the U.S. you
> can change the gross weight to anything, why is there a need for an
> inspection at all?
>
> Garth Shearing
> VariEze and 80% RV6A
> Victoria BC Canada
>
> | Bob, you need to somehow explain to the misinformed DAR that you, not
> | Vans, are the manufacturer of the airplane; as the manufacturer, you can
> | set the GW anywhere you wish! What kind of gross weight would he require
> | if you had substituted rocket wings for Vans wings, or used a Mustang II
> | tail section, or...gasp....used a Subaru engine that Vans doesn't
> | endorse??
> |
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
RV8A for sale...98-99% finished...just little things left to do...0320,
160hp..0smoh..new C/S prop..new upholstry...radio transpndr..$61,500.00
located oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Gross Weight Determinations |
> you can
> set the GW anywhere you wish!
Sort of it seems.
Reading FAA Order 8130.2D (what the inspector uses to certify aircraft), you
must base your operating weights/cg limits from kit manufacturer data (text
of order below). However, the same order also states the FAA inspector is
only to check that the c.g. and its fore and aft limits have been
established, NOT the gross weight the builder has set.
I guess the key is not to mention the word gross *anywhere*. Its not
required on the data plate, and if you show the inspector you have done the
calcs for all your intended mission profiles to prove the c.g. is within
fore/aft limits, you have satisfied the FAA order requirement.
> What kind of gross weight would he require
> if you had substituted rocket wings for Vans wings,
You would have to do all the calcs to determine the safe weights/cg limits
(also covered in the order).
> or...gasp....used a Subaru engine that Vans doesn't
> endorse??
The airframe will only be stable in a certain c.g. range regardless of
what's up front. I suspect you would still have to use the kit
manufacturers data.
If an inspector insists on gross weight data, maybe giving him a higher
gross weight with a load factor limitation (based on Van's 6g's@1375lbs)
would make things happy.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
*************************************************
FAA Order 8130.2D, Airworthiness Certification of Aircraft and Related
Products, Par. 127, Subsection 2(f):
Weight and Balance.
(1) Prior to certification, the amateur builder should accurately weigh the
aircraft in accordance with established weight and balance procedures to
determine the aircraft's empty, gross, and most forward and aft center of
gravity range, including the weight and balance for the initial flight tests
in order to help reduce stall, spin, and other control related accidents.
Such limits would be determined by the builder through calculations if the
aircraft is self-designed, or as specified in the data for aircraft
constructed from a kit or built from purchased plans. The completed weight
and balance report, including load limits for crew, oil, fuel, and baggage,
should be available in the aircraft along with the other applicable
placards, listings, and markings required by 91.9.
(2) Prior to certificating the aircraft, the FAA should verify that the
weight and balance data is accurate for that aircraft; that the aircraft has
been weighed correctly; and that the CG and its most forward and aft CG
limits are established.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A flight visibilty |
List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is the
visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a
long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few
things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help,
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/8/02 7:21:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
> OK, what's going on here? This is like the third baby-forced sale of an RV
> in the last few months.
Folks
My wife has it together, folks. While building the RV, I acquired a Cherokee
to fly.
My wife has appropriately nicknamed this airplane BABY.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Info |
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Larry,
> A pilot/A&P friend sent it to Utah. I will get the specifics for the list.
> I have also had the Ia Air Guard check them in the past; they didn't charge
> me a thing.
> Jack
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque Wrench Info
>
> Where is you take it to be certified?
>
> -Larry
>
> > Wanted the group to know the 1/4" 0-200 inch pound torque wrench I
> purchased
> > from JC Whitney just passed a certification. The tolerance was 4%. Mine
> > was within 1/4 of a percent. I was pleasantly surprised.
> > Jack
> > RV8, wings
> > DSM
>
Is that a 0-200 or a 20-200? I saw a 20-200 on there web site.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AJ Yahya" <ajyahya(at)relay3.jaring.my> |
| Subject: | TruTrak autopilot system |
I am considering TruTrak DigiFlight 100 with GPS steering for an RV-7A
project which just started. I understand that the unit include:
a.. Built-in Digital Slaved Directional Gyro
a.. Digital Heading Selector
This obviously will save me cost from buying a slaved DG if I considers
a S-TEC system 20.
Has anyone had any experience with the TruTrak system?
AJ Yahya
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilot system |
You might try Wayne Williams at : rwayne(at)gamewood.net
E. Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hanger #23 INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety and Operating Costs |
Regarding my post on March 3 on the subject of Shell W oil Randy
Levold asked if I was including W 15-50 in it. To clear things up I was
talking about the standard W series not the multiple viscosity.
For the Lycoming's my practice has been to run W100 spring to fall and
W80 through the colder months. As I have mentioned before I preheat for
starting when the temperatures are below the freezing mark so I really
have no need for the 15-50. In all honesty I would still preheat in the
colder temperatures for starting even if running 15-50.
On the 15-50 I would like to see some engines run to overhaul and see
what the condition was on tear down. I have no doubt that is as
advertised and the LW 16702 additive in it takes care of those who are
running the H2AD's. This additive would be a real plus during the winter
months when the engines sit idle for long periods.
Here in Canada and I am sure it would be the same in the USA Shell added
W100 Plus which also contains the LW16702 additive. This is my choice
for the coming summer anyway.
And for those just starting a new or overhauled engine just a reminder
to go with Shell straight mineral oil not the W series until the oil
consumption settles down. Avoid ground running and taxiing as much as
possible.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Wiring and instruments on the 6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
Hey guys, were did you get the fairings from?
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A upper gear leg fairings
>
> All you RV-6A builders ...
>
> I have upper gear leg fairings, but can't figure out how to hold them in
> place. I don't think that drilling holes in my fuel tanks for screws is a
> good idea. The plane is flying, so access to the fuselage isn't great. I
saw
> somewhere once that these upper fairings could be held in place by using
> springs, but I can't see how that would work. Any ideas out there?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cmcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Could someone give me the contact no of Alex Dominicis.
His RV6 is in the calender under April and I need to know the colour of his
paint.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Gauthier <tgauthier(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Slider/Tip up Photo's |
I have been asked by several builders for photo's of the modification to my canopy
which makes it a slider and a tip up so I have posted the photo's to the yahoo
group photos in the Ted Gauthier file. You can obtain the plans from the
original designer Rich Meske. If anyone still has questions, just drop me a
note and I will do my best to explain what I did.
Ted Gauthier
RV 6, finishing
Pontia, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilot system |
AJ Yahya wrote:
>
> I am considering TruTrak DigiFlight 100 with GPS steering for an RV-7A
> project which just started. I understand that the unit include:
>
> a.. Built-in Digital Slaved Directional Gyro
> a.. Digital Heading Selector
>
> This obviously will save me cost from buying a slaved DG if I considers
> a S-TEC system 20.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with the TruTrak system?
Got the Digiflight 200 TruTrak. Haven't put it all together yet but have
installed the roll servo in a -7A wing and have the pitch servo for the
fuse. Quality seems to be very good and the pieces fit the -7 perfectly --
simple bolt-on that replaces current brackets.
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tilting slider canopy |
Listers,
Rich Meske has asked me to post a web page about his tilting slider canopy
modification. The URL is:
http://rv.supermatrix.com/misc/tilt-slider.html
====
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 328 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Today's crayon-level question:
What makes a compass an aviation compass?
I picked up a Ritchie X-15 marine compass
(http://www.ritchienavigation.com/ritchie.htm) that would look real nice
in my panel, and the fact that it was $26 is a bonus. Any reason why it
won't work?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Gross Weight Determinations |
In the US, the job of the FAA/DAR is to ensure that the aircraft is amateur
built (non-commercial), that it meets the requirements, and is airworthy.
In the US there is no requirement for the DAR to ensure that your aircraft
is built to any sort of specification given by the kit mfg.(I.E. Vans). As
was stated earlier, you could put taylorcraft wings and a lancair tail on
the thing if you wanted!
A good example is the Harmon Rocket, Boyd's "Super Six", etc.... You are
the kit mfg, Van's just supplies you with components and hardware. That
being said, you must ultimately determine the performance variables for YOUR
plane.
I know things are differnt in other countries, but that's how it is in the
US.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch, A&P
RV6, Minneapolis. Waiting on Seats and Seat Belts, Paint and a Hangar.
I'm in Canada where the regs a a little different, but if in the U.S. you
can change the gross weight to anything, why is there a need for an
inspection at all?
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Today's crayon-level question:
>
> What makes a compass an aviation compass?
>
> I picked up a Ritchie X-15 marine compass
> (http://www.ritchienavigation.com/ritchie.htm) that would look real nice
> in my panel, and the fact that it was $26 is a bonus. Any reason why it
> won't work?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
Per FAR 91.205 which calls out requirements for instruments:
b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the
following instruments and equipment are required:
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
The same holds true for night and IFR operations.
So......is the marine compass a "Magnetic direction indicator"? :-)
The DAR will probably want to see you attach a correction card near the
unit, but any ol' compass is legal in our experimental planes as long as
it can be reasonably swung.
The only compass in my RV-6 is the electronic module in the RMI
uEncoder.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rodney.woodard" <rodney.woodard(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
>>>do the paperwork for 1600.......and fly the plane at whatever weight you
wish. ;-)"<<<
I wouldn't do this... The insurance folks can correct me if I'm wrong, but
I'm guessing the insurance company won't be wild about paying a claim if you
are intentionally operating the aircraft outside its limitations. For this
reason, I would think it would be wise to set the gross weight high enough
that you'd never bust the limitation.
The other issue is that das-Fed could issue a violation for exceeding your
chosen gross weight.
I do agree that you are the manufacturer and should be able to set any gross
weight you desire.
I'm guessing that Sam was probably just poking fun when he said you could,
"do the paperwork for 1600.......and fly the plane at whatever weight you
wish. ;-)" and that's why he put the smiley in there.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Northern Colorado
RV-3 empennage in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
>
> Bob, you need to somehow explain to the misinformed DAR that you, not
> Vans, are the manufacturer of the airplane; as the manufacturer, you can
> set the GW anywhere you wish! What kind of gross weight would he require
> if you had substituted rocket wings for Vans wings, or used a Mustang II
> tail section, or...gasp....used a Subaru engine that Vans doesn't
> endorse??
>
> If he balks at this, show him the registration application where you
> indicated the plane is a "Busick RV-6A".
>
> If he still balks......get a DAR that knows what he is doing......and
> let all the local builders know to avoid this turkey.
>
> Or.....do the paperwork for 1600.......and fly the plane at whatever
> weight you wish. ;-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, been flown at 1600, been flown at 1675, been flown
> at 1725.......)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
> =====================
>
> Bob Busick wrote:
> >
> >
> > I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A
gross
> > weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that
the
> > builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
> >
> > However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
> > that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him
that
> > it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
> > weight if Van would put that in writing.
> >
> > Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around
this.
> > I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > _
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A upper gear leg fairings |
Team Rocket makes and sells a set of upper and lower gear leg intersection
fairings. They fit the gear leg fairings that Team Rocket makes and sells. I
believe they fit the pressure recovery wheel pants that Van sells. Check the
Team Rocket web site to make sure. The products are high quality, well made
items.
I made my own lower gear leg fairings, but bought the uppers from Team
Rocket.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Hey guys, were did you get the fairings from?
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
> The basic idea behind inspections seems to be that the paper work is
> done correctly.
>
Sometimes, I think Jerry is right on this one. I've seen some homebuilts I
wouldn't even think of riding in. They got past their inspection, somehow.
I can tell you that mine was given a very good inspection by my DAR. I
thought he was a little pricey until I sat down and thought about the time
he had in mine. It wasn't so pricey, anymore.
When you go to fly-ins, see if you find those that look too dangerous to
ride in. You're not going to find many of them that bad, thank goodness.
However, that doesn't mean they're not there. Things can be hidden, like
bad riveting, wiring, etc. I've seen wiring and plumbing so bad that I
wonder that the owner hadn't had problems with leaks and shorts. Now, I'm
not one who has looked at lots and lots of homebuilts. It's that a large
percentage are that way. They look great on the outside; but, they're
disasters on the inside. Some things need looking at by the professionals
to be sure we have them right. I've personally looked at enough wiring and
plumbing jobs while hanging around the airport that I was able to do a
pretty decent job on mine. How many of you can say that and feel good about
it? If not, have a pro look at it for you to be sure you're doing the
right thing. That way, you don't have to worry about the DAR's looking at
it. You'll know it's right. Uh, oh. I'm getting off the subject. :-)
As for the weight limit, I had to set mine at 1800 to feel comfortable about
it. I wanted enough room for insurance companies. I can easily fill mine
to 1700 pounds with two standard passengers. Even though I can meet the
standard weight, my passengers don't always do that. My DAR said nothing
about my gross weight. He did check out my CG calculations that included
one for a 300 pound passenger at full and empty tanks. One may think that's
funny; but, I've taken up kids in the Young Eagles program that weighed more
than that. That was in my Cheetah. I'd have to fly off some fuel before I
felt safe to do it; but, I made sure that kid got the ride. Anyway, my DAR
was satisfied and passed my airplane into the next phase of the adventure.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8A flight visibilty |
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Craig Chipley"
>
>
> List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is
the
> visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a
> long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few
> things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help,
> Craig
>
>
Well, a picture is worth...... see
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/moreflying.html
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
99 hrs, 132 landings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A flight visibilty |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Craig, I'm not flying my own -8A yet nor have I soloed any -8 or -8A
from the front seat in flight, but I've flown back seat in -8/A's and sat
in the front seat of many on the ground making airplane noises, switching
to guns, and dropping laser-guided weapons into caves in Afghanistan....
My conclusion has been that the visibility over the nose is
excellent.....WAY better than any spam can you've ever been in. Yes the
nose is fairly long relative to the size of the airplane, but it's a
small airplane and the nose slopes down quite a bit and you sit up pretty
high. Probly the biggest disadvantage would be in an -8 taildragger on
the ground which would be the "worst-case" visibility-wise, but if you've
already seen the light and are planning to join the ranks of us
nosedragger training-wheel weenies, you don't have a thing to worry
about. Jump on in, you'll love it!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....makin' airplane noises....
_______
From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A flight visibilty
List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is
the
visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a
long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a
few
things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help,
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I've been watching the various discussions here for the past couple years
on problems people run into with inspectors (like gross weight, engine AD
compliance, etc. etc.). Seems to me that the problem is this:
1) One of the primary purposes of the inspection is to determine
airworthiness (i.e. safety).
2) The inspection is a subjective evaluation on the part of the
inspector.
So, here's where the problems begin. It's true that because your RV is
an Experimental you have a lot of leeway in the limitations you set for
your aircraft, and what things you do to your airframe or engine.....that
is to say the regs may not call out anywhere that an experimental
aircraft has to follow the kit manufacturer's suggested gross weight or
the engine manufacturers suggested service bulletins, AD's, etc. But
when the inspector comes along he should be evaluating the aircraft from
a safety perspective, so he might ask you to add an adel clamp here, a
tiewrap there, reroute this or that hose, etc to ensure safety. Along
the same lines he may feel very strongly that because Van's has an
outstanding reputation as a kit producer/ designer, his recommended gross
weight should be followed. Or likewise, if you're using a Lycosaur (even
with an experimental data plate on it) the AD's should be complied with
because they were intended to fix known safety problems (yeah I know some
are pretty bogus but that's beside the point here).
I'm not defending the FAA inspector or DAR in any way, just trying to
clarify what I perceive as an ongoing thread/misunderstanding on this
List regarding inspections. If an inspector refuses to sign off your
airplane for something he considers a safety issue, it doesn't matter one
bit whether he's "right" or "wrong" or whether the change he wants you to
make is "required" for experimental aircraft. You're pretty much
stuck.......so your options at that point are to use resources such as
EAA, Vans, or other documentation to convince him otherwise, or to get a
new inspector.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
_______
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
I checked the archives and I have seen that some people have set RV6/A
gross
weights at 1800-1950 lbs. Also it has been stated numerous times that
the
builder/manufacturer sets the gross weight.
However, my FAA inspector when he saw my gross weight of 1800 he told me
that I had to document from Vans the designed gross weight. I told him
that
it was 1600/1650 and he told me that he would only approve an 1800 gross
weight if Van would put that in writing.
Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around
this.
I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
>
> Assuming that Van will not put this in writing, how do I get around this.
> I don't need an 1800 gross weight, but, it would be nice if I need it.
Can anyone comment on how Van's set their initial gross weight, and
what the implications would be for flying at a heavier weight? Obviously,
we won't get the same climb performance, but our performance is aready
well above what I'm used to flying...
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread yet are the in-flight
g-load limitations at weights greater than 1650, in the case of the 6 or 6A.
One can extrapolate (within reason) what the limitations should be. Van's
design numbers for the 6/6A are 1375 lbs +6g, and at 1650 the limit is +4.4.
At 1800, this works out to be about +3.5 g's. This does not consider
landing gear loads. I believe it is prudent to plan to burn 100lbs of fuel
or so before landing, when the flight was initiated at something like
1800lbs.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 96 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
OK. Thanks, Sam.
So, there is nothing physically "special" about a aviation comapss.
It's not gimbled different or dampened or whatever?
Physically, Marine whiskey compass =? Aviation whiskey compass
The only thing lacking on this model from Ritchie is a way to adjust it.
I guess that's where the correction card comes into play ...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > Today's crayon-level question:
> >
> > What makes a compass an aviation compass?
> >
> > I picked up a Ritchie X-15 marine compass
> > (http://www.ritchienavigation.com/ritchie.htm) that would look real
> > nice in my panel, and the fact that it was $26 is a bonus.
> Any reason
> > why it won't work?
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> Per FAR 91.205 which calls out requirements for instruments:
>
> b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day,
> the following instruments and equipment are required: instruments snipped>
>
> (3) Magnetic direction indicator.
>
>
>
> The same holds true for night and IFR operations.
>
> So......is the marine compass a "Magnetic direction indicator"? :-)
>
> The DAR will probably want to see you attach a correction
> card near the unit, but any ol' compass is legal in our
> experimental planes as long as it can be reasonably swung.
>
> The only compass in my RV-6 is the electronic module in the
> RMI uEncoder.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anodizing fuel caps |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, FYI for the archives, I did some more research on the fuel caps
supplied by Vans (made by Usher) and was told that they can NOT be
anodized.....they are a casting that includes other metals along with
aluminum, and have a high silicon content. To get good results with
anodizing you need a machined aluminum alloy. I've looked through some
catalogs (Aircraft Spruce, etc...) and there are several other caps
available that would work, but none of them look compatible with the
Usher caps.....it would have to be fitted with their own filler necks
when the tanks are assembled. So my fuel caps will have to be painted
instead : (
As a side note, the guy I talked to who does the castings said that if
you don't want the paint to chip off so easily, you need to etch/alodine
the caps before paint. Apparently the surface of the caps is
contaminated by the mold release stuff, and just wiping it with MEK or
equivalent will not clean it well enough for a really good paint
bond......it'll stick ok, but will be more prone to chipping or peeling
off than a surface prepared with etch/alodine.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
> that
> is to say the regs may not call out anywhere that an experimental
> aircraft has to follow the kit manufacturer's suggested gross weight...
> One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread yet are the in-flight
> g-load limitations at weights greater than 1650,
I guess my post last night was missed. Spells out the FAA regs regarding
the following of kit manufacturer gross weight, and possible satisfaction of
variances through appropriate load limitation calculations.
Not trying to nit pick, just trying to make sure Bob and the inspector have
valid info in hand so he can set his gross weight set higher.
Rob Acker (RV-6, registration paperwork).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
How about chrome?
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anodizing fuel caps
>
> Guys, FYI for the archives, I did some more research on the fuel caps
> supplied by Vans (made by Usher) and was told that they can NOT be
> anodized.....they are a casting that includes other metals along with
> aluminum, and have a high silicon content. To get good results with
> anodizing you need a machined aluminum alloy. I've looked through some
> catalogs (Aircraft Spruce, etc...) and there are several other caps
> available that would work, but none of them look compatible with the
> Usher caps.....it would have to be fitted with their own filler necks
> when the tanks are assembled. So my fuel caps will have to be painted
> instead : (
>
> As a side note, the guy I talked to who does the castings said that if
> you don't want the paint to chip off so easily, you need to etch/alodine
> the caps before paint. Apparently the surface of the caps is
> contaminated by the mold release stuff, and just wiping it with MEK or
> equivalent will not clean it well enough for a really good paint
> bond......it'll stick ok, but will be more prone to chipping or peeling
> off than a surface prepared with etch/alodine.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff....
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
Does one, in fact, have the option to get another inspector? I had seen
messages years back on this list to the effect that once an inspector finds
a discrepancy, it must be fixed - there is no second opinion. Sort of like
getting an annual and disagreeing with the IA's call on maintenance before
the Return-to-Service sign-off is obtained. Once an IA says it's bad, it
has to be fixed and you can't get a second opinion.
The interpretations of DARs and FISDO inspectors vary so greatly between
regions and individuals that there may be no simple answer to this one.
It was because of concerns like these that I got to know my inspector well
before he came out to see the plane. We discussed my project and I showed
him my well-documented lab book (a/k/a builder's log). He gave me some head
's up advice on what he expected and all went well at inspection time. In
our area, there are lots of builders and it is pretty easy to find out who
the good guys are before they show up to inspect your plane.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours Gross wt 1800 lbs
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Gross Weight Determinations
>
> I'm not defending the FAA inspector or DAR in any way, just trying to
> clarify what I perceive as an ongoing thread/misunderstanding on this
> List regarding inspections. If an inspector refuses to sign off your
> airplane for something he considers a safety issue, it doesn't matter one
> bit whether he's "right" or "wrong" or whether the change he wants you to
> make is "required" for experimental aircraft. You're pretty much
> stuck.......so your options at that point are to use resources such as
> EAA, Vans, or other documentation to convince him otherwise, or to get a
> new inspector.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8A finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7/9 Fuselage help |
Ok 10 hours is enough.
I'm trying to clecoe the F711, F712, F779 to the fuselage assembly and I can
get 1 side clecoed on but the other side holes are off by 1/4" (too low, the
F779 needs to be pulled in tighter). Anybody just throw away the F779 piece
of $%&# and try a non-prepunched one? I'm at the point where holes are being
enlarged due to the stress on the clecoes.
Suggestions would be much appreciated to help me out of the frusterating
hole and back into the building enjoyment hole.
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
Check with the EAA 1-888-eaa-info. Earl lawrence can help.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Gross Weight Determinations
Does one, in fact, have the option to get another inspector? I had seen
messages years back on this list to the effect that once an inspector finds
a discrepancy, it must be fixed - there is no second opinion. Sort of like
getting an annual and disagreeing with the IA's call on maintenance before
the Return-to-Service sign-off is obtained. Once an IA says it's bad, it
has to be fixed and you can't get a second opinion.
The interpretations of DARs and FISDO inspectors vary so greatly between
regions and individuals that there may be no simple answer to this one.
It was because of concerns like these that I got to know my inspector well
before he came out to see the plane. We discussed my project and I showed
him my well-documented lab book (a/k/a builder's log). He gave me some head
's up advice on what he expected and all went well at inspection time. In
our area, there are lots of builders and it is pretty easy to find out who
the good guys are before they show up to inspect your plane.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 114 hours Gross wt 1800 lbs
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Gross Weight Determinations
>
> I'm not defending the FAA inspector or DAR in any way, just trying to
> clarify what I perceive as an ongoing thread/misunderstanding on this
> List regarding inspections. If an inspector refuses to sign off your
> airplane for something he considers a safety issue, it doesn't matter one
> bit whether he's "right" or "wrong" or whether the change he wants you to
> make is "required" for experimental aircraft. You're pretty much
> stuck.......so your options at that point are to use resources such as
> EAA, Vans, or other documentation to convince him otherwise, or to get a
> new inspector.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8A finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
Which may be why the FAA is more than happy to allow Canadian homebuilts
into the US, but TC is opposed to allowing US homebuilts into Canada.
Our inspection process appears to be more stringent... Preclosing
inspections on all structures, final inspection before first flight,
etc. I've heard of final inspections taking all day up here.
-RB4
Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>It is a money making program for FAA cronnies.
>My DAR spent two minutes at the plane and then asked for 350 dollars.
>Tom Gummo
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Gross Weight Determinations |
We can fly into Canada any time we want. But live there? Under that type of
oppressive bureaucracy? No way!
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gross Weight Determinations
Which may be why the FAA is more than happy to allow Canadian homebuilts
into the US, but TC is opposed to allowing US homebuilts into Canada.
Our inspection process appears to be more stringent... Preclosing
inspections on all structures, final inspection before first flight,
etc. I've heard of final inspections taking all day up here.
-RB4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Canadian inspection requirements, was: Gross Weight Determinations |
It would be interesting to figure out what percentage of US homebuilt
accidents are caused by stuff that would have been picked up by a
Canadian style inspection. I'm betting a more stringent inspection
would have made a difference in only a very small percentage of
accidents.
There is a proposed amendment to the Canadian regulations that would
allow a US homebuilt to be imported into Canada, as long as it has
flown 50 hours. See:
<http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/regserv/carac/carac/part5-m&m/npa/archive/2001/jun/English/2001050e.htm>
This has been in the works for awhile - I have no idea when or if it
will be approved.
Kevin Horton
>
>Which may be why the FAA is more than happy to allow Canadian homebuilts
>into the US, but TC is opposed to allowing US homebuilts into Canada.
> Our inspection process appears to be more stringent... Preclosing
>inspections on all structures, final inspection before first flight,
>etc. I've heard of final inspections taking all day up here.
>
>-RB4
>
>Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>>
>>It is a money making program for FAA cronnies.
>>My DAR spent two minutes at the plane and then asked for 350 dollars.
> >Tom Gummo
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Stewart" <davestewart(at)globalserve.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7/9 Fuselage help |
Steve
I agree, this area is frustrating, but hang in there. The tailcone is a
brute due to it's thickness. Some things that helped me: 1) make sure the
tailcone edges are vertical along the J-stringer rivet lines (mine wasn't
due to springback during forming) & get these clecoes in first. 2) measure
the center distance of flange rivet holes in the SKINS 3) assuming you've
riveted the fore & aft bulkhead halves together, fiddle with the flanges
'till they match (?!) skin holes & follow skin angle 4) insert & cleco front
half, then coax aft half (grind old #40 bit as drift pin) & cleco every
hole.
Don't know if this is best way but it got me there.
Dave (90252)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7/9 Fuselage help
>
>
> Ok 10 hours is enough.
> I'm trying to clecoe the F711, F712, F779 to the fuselage assembly and I
can
> get 1 side clecoed on but the other side holes are off by 1/4" (too low,
the
> F779 needs to be pulled in tighter). Anybody just throw away the F779
piece
> of $%&# and try a non-prepunched one? I'm at the point where holes are
being
> enlarged due to the stress on the clecoes.
>
> Suggestions would be much appreciated to help me out of the frusterating
> hole and back into the building enjoyment hole.
>
> Thankx
> Steve
> RV-7A
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Swivel Tailwheel Breakout Force. |
Hi,
Is there anyway to increase the breakout force on the RV-6 full swivel
tailwheel?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Swivel Tailwheel Breakout Force. |
In a message dated 3/9/02 4:18:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com writes:
<< Hi,
Is there anyway to increase the breakout force on the RV-6 full swivel
tailwheel?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E >>
There is a small spring which forces the pawl (pin) in the locking mechanism
into the slot. This provides the centering force. To increase the break-out
force, replace the original spring with a stronger spring with identical
diameter and identical (or slightly greater) length.
The downside to increasing the break out force is that it will tend to
increase the side loads applied to the tailspring and mount. That portion of
the airframe may be strong enought to handle these loads, and then again, it
may not be. I dunno...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Mount Compass for Sale |
Listers,
I have a remote mount Ritchie M-2 Compass for sale. It has a black bezel
and blue face with white lettering.
West Marine features it for $149 and it sells for $ 201 at Advantage
propeller
This is brand new in the box for $100 plus shipping.
Below is a description from the West Marine Web site.
Description
Convenient instrument panel mounting makes this advanced technology easy
to install and use. You get highly accurate MagTronic readings and
extra-large numerals on a high-visibility blue dial that's easy to read.
Sensor is gimbaled to 45=BA pitch and roll. Features include automatic
compensation, edge lighting and reverse polarity protection.
Noncorroding remote sensor housing measures 4 1/8" x 2 15/16" x 4" and
weighs only 24oz. Gauges fit standard panel knockouts and can be mounted
at any angle. M-Series compasses include 20' cable and installation and
compensation instructions. Repeaters include 20' cable. 2-year warranty.
If interested, contact me off list at edwardmcole(at)attbi.com
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
message posted by: "Paul Besing"
> How about chrome?
Anodizing? Paint? Chrome? Nahhh. Just take a polishing wheel to them and
they shine up real nice.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rodney.woodard" <rodney.woodard(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
This is not correct. You always have the option of tugging your airplane
across the ramp to a different IA. In an extreme case, you could probably
get a ferry permit to fly the airplane to another airport and another IA.
You are not held hostage.
Don't get me wrong, MOST of the A&P's/IA's I've ever dealt with have been
honest as the day is long and fine individuals. However, there's always one
of anything lurking around ready to be the exception to the rule.
A concrete example: I once had an IA refuse to sign off on an annual on a
Cherokee 140 because he insisted that I comply with a Service Bulletin that
was issued for the Saratoga and bigger Pipers. I refused. I was able to talk
to his partner in the repair shop who was more reasonable, but I had already
started the process to obtain a ferry permit to take my plane to a different
airport and a different IA.
It's easy to get into a p*ssing match over some of this stuff. One person
says he carries a flashlight at night. The next person says he carries two.
The next guy says he doesn't fly single engine aircraft at night. The next
guy says he won't fly any aircraft at night. Etc., ad nauseum.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Gross Weight Determinations
>
(STUFF SNIPPED)
> Once an IA says it's bad, it
> has to be fixed and you can't get a second opinion.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
The original poster wanted to make them red, not shiny. Since you can't
anodize them, how about a powder coat or just paint?
Dave Berryhill
> > How about chrome?
>
>Anodizing? Paint? Chrome? Nahhh. Just take a polishing wheel to them and
>they shine up real nice.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>www.vanshomewing.org
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A flight visibilty |
Amazing!
After years of flying Cessnas and Piper Warriors the 8A is a dream come true.
First of all, the nose sits so far below the horizon my reference point for level
flight is half way up the wind screen. I have to keep from just throwing
my head back all the time and looking straight up at the sky. I'm still freaked
at all times I see the moon in broad daylight.
I flew my first formation flight two weeks ago and it was so easy to find my marks,
even when passing under the lead the view is amazing. What a thrill. I
can hardly wait to get good at it.
It almost makes all that time I spent on the canopy worth it ;-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (flying every weekend and loving every minute of it)
--
On Fri, 08 Mar 2002 19:48:14
Craig Chipley wrote:
>
>
>List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is the
>visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a
>long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few
>things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help,
>Craig
>
>
2,000,000,000 Web Pages--you only need 1. Save time with My Lycos.
http://my.lycos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Carb Heat Muff/Accident... |
Listers,
Came upon the incident below while surfing the net...and it made me wonder if
the design has been changed at all or if anyone one has come up with a better
way to work the carb heat problem?? The long report basically said the 2" hose
to the FAB is inadequate and a bad design? Just curious...
Kurt in OKC, RV6AQB, Finishing....
On April 1, 1999, approximately 1700 mountain standard time, a Sly RV-6A homebuilt
aircraft, N80287, owned and operated by the pilot, was substantially damaged
after impacting terrain following a loss of engine power while in cruise flight
near Payson, Utah. The airline transport rated pilot and one passenger were
not injured. The local area personal flight was being operated under Title
14 CFR Part 91, and no flight plan was filed. The flight originated from the
Spanish Fork-Springville Airport, Spanish Fork, Utah, at 1645. Visual meteorological
conditions prevailed.
According to the pilot, after being airborne for approximately 15 minutes, the
aircraft's engine began to lose power. He stated that he applied carburetor heat
and switched the fuel tanks, but observed no change in power. The loss of engine
power was gradual, with no sudden stoppage, backfiring or surging. Unable
to restore power to the engine, he initiated an emergency landing along a county
road 6 miles south of the airport. During landing, he switched to another
road to avoid power lines. Upon touchdown, the aircraft departed the side of
the road and struck a fence post, damaging the nose gear, ailerons and rudder.
At the request and in the presence of a Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) inspector,
the engine was examined and test run at the Spanish Fork Flying Service
on April 16, 1999. During the inspection, the fuel was clear and free of contaminates.
The engine ran with and without the fuel pump turned on, and no discrepancies
were noted.
The pilot stated in his accident report that "other pilots at the scene agreed
the conditions could cause carburetor icing." According to the FAA inspector present
at the accident scene, weather conditions were partly cloudy and cold with
calm wind. According to the inspector, "the conditions were a classic setup
for carburetor icing."
According to the Van's Aircraft construction and operating manual, one method of
building the internal carburetor heat system is to "run a 2-inch air hose from
a heat muff and position it to feed into the alternative air inlet of the carb[uretor]
air box without being attached and closed." According to the FAA inspector
who examined the aircraft following the accident, this is the method
by which the pilot constructed the airplane. According to the inspector, the 2-inch
hose is not large enough to adequately supply enough heat to the carburetor
to sufficiently melt the ice.
The aircraft was issued an airworthiness certificate by the FAA on August 24, 1995.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilot system |
I have the digiflight 100 with GPSS. It is installed in the plane and I have
had it powered up. It seems like it will be an excellent system and
installation was a snap.
There is so much info I could give but it would be best to hear it from the
experts at tru-trak. The # is 501-751-0250 and ask for chuck.
John Link
rv-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat Muff/Accident... |
KAKlewin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Came upon the incident below while surfing the net...and it made me wonder
if the design has been changed at all or if anyone one has come up with a better
way to work the carb heat problem?? The long report basically said the 2" hose
to the FAB is inadequate and a bad design? Just curious...
>
> Kurt in OKC, RV6AQB, Finishing....
>
Kurt;
If you check the archives on this subject you will find that this topic came up
not too long ago. The scary part of that discussion was the number of builders
who felt that carburettor ice wasn't something that could affect them and therefore
they weren't going to install (or didn't have) any provision for carb
heat at all. That discussion also mentioned the adequacy/inadequacy of Van's design.
The opinions were about as varied as the number of responders. As you can
gather from the incident report you found, if you have a carb you NEED carb
heat and when you need it you need lots of it. You may not need it often, but
when you need it, you really need it.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joe hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross Weight Determinations |
I was going to fire off a flamer here, but I'll bite my tonge and just
wonder why some people have to say things in a forum that has people from
all over the world participating, that serves no purpose and pisses some of
us off?
Joe Hine
Not native Canadian but CHOOSE to live here.
>
> We can fly into Canada any time we want. But live there? Under that type
of
> oppressive bureaucracy? No way!
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-9A Quickbuild For Sale |
A friend of mine needs to sell his RV-9A Quickbuild kit. He is not computer
savvy so I told him I would put it on the list for him.
Included is the following:
Empenage: Completed with electric trim and light on bottom tip. Fiberglass
tips not yet installed.
Wings: Ready for ailerons and flaps. Control rod and final top skin not yet
installed.
Fuselage: Quickbuild - not touched.
Flaps & Ailerons: Ready to install.
Vans prepunched instrument panel.
Two landing lights.
Right & left step kits.
All plans, documents & inventory sheets.
Fiberglass kit w/ resin, etc.
6 Bench Grinder
All Avery Tools:
Squeezer sets
Dimple dies
Air line swivel
3X rivet gun
Pin punches
Scotchbrite pads and wheel
Vixen file
Rivet cutter
1/8 rivet set
3/4 flush set w/guard
Back rivet set
Micro-stop
Countersinks
Speed deburr tool
Rivet gauges
Cleco Pliers
12 steel rule
Wiss snips R&L
10 #10 (3/16) Clecoes
Avery hand squeezer
Drill stop set
100 #40 (3/32) Clecoes
Clamps
50 #30 (1/8) Clecoes
Back rivet plate
Bucking bars
Drill bits
This kit is set up for a tip-up canopy. Everything you need to start building
the day you get it!
He has $22,296.54 invested in everything. He is asking $18,000.00 for the
whole thing. It is located in a hangar at Front Range Airport (FTG) which is
located in Watkins, Colorado just east of Denver. If you are interested in
owning a real nice RV-9A Quickbuild, his name is Jerry Lippert and he can be
reached at (303) 751-1755.
Thanks,
John Singer
RV-6A - Denver, CO
Wheels, tires, wing gap seal, waiting on engine, etc . . .
http://www.jgsinger.com/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilot system |
Have you coupled it to a GPS? Which one? Was it difficult?
In one of the many mental interations of my panel, I couple the trutrak
to my garmin 295 (handheld) gps. But...the trutrak web site specfically
does NOT recommend this, saying handhelds are not accurate enough.
Sounds like some weak CYA talk to me......
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JLINKJR(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 7:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: TruTrak autopilot system
>
>
>
> I have the digiflight 100 with GPSS. It is installed in the
> plane and I have
> had it powered up. It seems like it will be an excellent system and
> installation was a snap.
> There is so much info I could give but it would be best to
> hear it from the
> experts at tru-trak. The # is 501-751-0250 and ask for chuck.
>
> John Link
> rv-8
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
one last thing about anodizing, it fades in the sunlight.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
In a message dated 3/9/2002 7:22:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> I did some more research on the fuel caps
> supplied by Vans (made by Usher) and was told that they cannot be
> anodized.....they are a casting that includes other metals along with
> aluminum, and have a high silicon content. To get good results with
> anodizing you need a machined aluminum alloy.
Cast and welded aluminum pieces are notorious for not looking as good as
machined plate when anodized, but not really for the reason you mentioned.
All aluminum alloys contain other metals and silicon is one of the two
principle alloying elements (with magnesium) in the popular 6XXX series
aluminum, which anodize beautifully.
Both the variations in the density and hardness of the cast material and the
nonuniform oxide (a ceramic) layer that forms during the casting process are
what interfere to varying degrees with the anodizing process. The dye that
is used to provide coloring of the anodized surface and the subsequent
sealing require a properly configured oxide matrix on the entire surface to
fill to the same degree in order to look uniform to the eye. Incidentally
these dyes look great when new but don't really standup well to UV exposure,
so painting might be preferred. On the fuel cap you really only need a good
looking top surface so, if you still want to anodize, it may help to grain
(similar to a deep sanding in a single axis) just this surface to expose
clean, fresh and more uniform metal first.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | F6101 and firewall weldment |
Fellow listers:
I am working on fitting my diagonal longerons between the firewall and
F604 on my 6A. I have been trying to trim the F6101 gusset so that the
angle the longeron I am fitting works out with the predrilled holes in
the firewall weldment. The very last hole in the aft end of the
weldment is causing concern, because if I drill through it and the
longeron, the hole will be right at the edge of the longeron. Poor edge
distance to say the least. I do not see any reference in the plans
regarding the location of the aft end of the diagonal longeron. I am
concerned that if I trim the F6101 gusset enough to make that last
weldment hole work, I will reduce the distance between the angled
longeron and the bottom front longeron too much. I have measured this
distance just as a starting point on the plans and it appears that as
drawn, that distance should be about 8". There is no way that this
measurement works out the way the firewall weldment is predrilled. Is
this a concern??? Should I go have a few barley pops and chill out???
Thanks in advance gang.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8/A rear seat riser |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I got some info from D.J. Lauritsen today regarding her seats for the
-8A. There's a set of simple plans to build a seat "riser" for the back
seat out of metal to reduce the thickness of cushion required (and save
weight I assume?). Anyway, it shows an angled platform approx 17" X 12"
made out of .032" alum, with one rib on each side made out of .025" alum.
Just wondering, for you guys already flying with this configuration,
have you found this design to be strong enough without any additional
ribs or stiffeners in it? Seems like if a big bubba were to sit back
there it might just cave in.....?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....should be flying any year now....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
>
> I got some info from D.J. Lauritsen today regarding her seats for the
> -8A. There's a set of simple plans to build a seat "riser" for the back
> seat out of metal to reduce the thickness of cushion required (and save
> weight I assume?). Anyway, it shows an angled platform approx 17" X 12"
> made out of .032" alum, with one rib on each side made out of .025" alum.
> Just wondering, for you guys already flying with this configuration,
> have you found this design to be strong enough without any additional
> ribs or stiffeners in it? Seems like if a big bubba were to sit back
> there it might just cave in.....?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff....should be flying any year now....
I don't know why you would need this. Becky Orndorff made my seats, and she
just asked for a few measurements of the pilot and the passenger. My wife,
who is about 5'4" sits on a cushion to raise her up and give her better
visibility. But guys of average height like the height just fine. It seems
like you would want the seat a little low for short people so that bigger
folks wont cram their head against the canopy.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
MARK-You should have 4 ribs-also put 2 large lighting holes under the cushion
for storage-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm ready to tie the cylinder baffle fin wraps together, using the safety
wire and brake line method. My question is, do you cover the entire length
of the safety wire between the wraps with the brake line? If that's so, then
Van shorted me on brake line. I've got one piece of tube that's 20" long,
which looks like it would be enough to do the two inner wraps with very
little left over for the outer wraps.
Am I missing something?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A, putting baffles on for the last time, I hope
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wobble Test (SB 388B) |
Listers,
It's nearing time for me to do the 400 hour exhaust valve guide
clearance checks on my O-360. There appear to be two methods of
accomplishing this. The first uses an ST-71 fixture and gage adapter
with a dial indicator. I have no idea how much these cost. The
second method of doing the test has you drop the exhaust valve into
the cylinder and test exhaust valve guide clearance using a set of
GO/NO-GO gages [if you don't like that spelling complain to Lycoming
; -) ]. For the O-360 the GO gage is .4985, and the NO-GO gage is
.4995. I have no idea where to find these gages.
I'm looking for advice on which method to use (fixture vs GO/NO-GO),
and for likely sources and costs of the fixture and/or gages.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
>
>I got some info from D.J. Lauritsen today regarding her seats for the
>-8A. There's a set of simple plans to build a seat "riser" for the back
>seat out of metal to reduce the thickness of cushion required (and save
>weight I assume?). Anyway, it shows an angled platform approx 17" X 12"
>made out of .032" alum, with one rib on each side made out of .025" alum.
> Just wondering, for you guys already flying with this configuration,
>have you found this design to be strong enough without any additional
>ribs or stiffeners in it? Seems like if a big bubba were to sit back
>there it might just cave in.....?
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A finish kit stuff....should be flying any year now....
>
>
Mark,
I built the seat riser per plans, EXCEPT that I used only two ribs; one on
each side. The inner two ribs were replaced with crosswise angles. I
believe Randy Lervold did the same thing. I've had some mega bubbas sitting
on it with no problems at all. By removed the two inner ribs, you have a
very nice storage space available to you by removing the seat cushion, and
lifting the pan up. This can be a very nice place to store things that are
not usually needed...like some small survival goodies, a gun (you just never
know), paperwork, etc.
By pulling the two hinge pins that hold it to the floor, it can be removed
for really tall pax. You just put the cushion flat on the floor.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
279 hrs.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wobble Test (SB 388B) |
You used to be able to borrow the wobble valve jig from Lycoming. Don't
know it you still can or not.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wobble Test (SB 388B)
Listers,
It's nearing time for me to do the 400 hour exhaust valve guide
clearance checks on my O-360. There appear to be two methods of
accomplishing this. The first uses an ST-71 fixture and gage adapter
with a dial indicator. I have no idea how much these cost. The
second method of doing the test has you drop the exhaust valve into
the cylinder and test exhaust valve guide clearance using a set of
GO/NO-GO gages [if you don't like that spelling complain to Lycoming
; -) ]. For the O-360 the GO gage is .4985, and the NO-GO gage is
.4995. I have no idea where to find these gages.
I'm looking for advice on which method to use (fixture vs GO/NO-GO),
and for likely sources and costs of the fixture and/or gages.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I get the list in a summary form, so this may have already been said, if so,
my apologies.
You can make the gross weight anything you want. So long as during your
test flying, you test fly the aircraft at that weight and determine that it
handles correctly (I forget the exact term) I purchased my airplane but
have gotten pretty familiar with the regs. One interesting aside. My RV-4
was built by a man who was a bit. . well large. (Bubbas in Vans terminology)
He certified the airplane with a gross weight of 1700#. But, not being a
stupid man, he stayed within Vans recommended CG specs. To keep within CG
limits required balast. So, when I purchased my plane, it weighed 970# with
30 lbs of balast hung off the front of the engine to move the CG forward.
He w&b shows it is withing envelope with a 200# pilot and a 200# passenger
and 20 lbs of bagage. Since neither my fiance nor I weigh anywhere near
#200, I remved the weights and reworked the w&b.
The bottom line is this:
Legal Perspective: if you test fly the aircraft at all ends of a given CG
and GW envelope during your test phase, those are the legal limits. (You
can even re-certify an aircraft for higher cg if you want)
Common Sense Perspective: Stay within Vans CG limits, these planes get
spooky when the aft limit is approached. Use Vans GW limit as a guide. If
you fly out of a 5000 foot x 150 foot paved airport, only fly on nice days
and are a model of smoothness, the excess power and control authority our
RVs are blessed with can allow you to operate safely at well over Vans
recommended gross. Just look at John Johanson. His plane's gross weight
was 2040#.
However, if you fly from a 800 foot grass field and are fond of bush pilot,
full stall, drop it in type landings, then you had better pay attention to
gross weight.
Its all about your margin of safety and how much you need to feel
comfortable. You make your decisions and take your chances.
Don Mei
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers |
| From: | "Glenn Bridges" <robwil(at)nlamerica.com> |
dear scott, i live in central ga. but fly down to ssi frequently, and have
been there on vacation many times. i will call you mon at the "bank". thanks
for the response, glenn 478-275-0200
----------
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers
>Date: Thu, Mar 7, 2002, 1:52 PM
>
>
>Don Mei originally said that OfficeMax was selling the 3635 for that low
>price. 3635 is the color model, not the monochrome. I've never seen the
>monochrome model anywhere.
>
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
>Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 10:09 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Compaq Ipaq Cheap for Anywhere map buyers
>
>
>Mike, why are you quoting specs on the Color model? The 3135 or 3035 is
>monochrome!
>
>That's why the much lower price. The screen!
>
>Finn
>
>Mike Plecenik wrote:
>
>>
>> >From Amazon.c: (they're still asking over $500. new & over $300. used)
>>
>> Standard memory: 32 MB RAM, 16 MB ROM
>> Maximum memory: Up to 64 MB with card
>> Expansion slot: CompactFlash
>> Display type: Color-reflective TFT LCD (indoor/outdoor)
>> Display colors: 4,096 (12-bit)
>> Display size: 2.26 by 3.02 inches
>> Resolution: 240 by 320 pixels
>> Display backlight: Yes, ambient-light sensor adjusts automatically
>> Processor: 206 MHz Intel StrongARM SA-1110 32-bit RISC
>> Operating system: Microsoft Windows for Pocket PCs
>> PC compatible: Yes
>> Mac compatible: No
>> PC system requirements: 486 MHz processor or higher, Windows 98 or 2000
>for
>> USB synchronization, USB port, CD-ROM drive
>> Handwriting recognition: Yes
>> Keyboard: On-screen
>> User controls: On/off, light, menu, speaker/5-way joystick, contacts,
>> calendar
>> Memo pad: Yes
>> Address book: Yes
>> Scheduler: Yes
>> E-mail: Yes
>> Web browser: Yes
>> Security: Password protection
>> Stereo: Yes
>> Built-in speaker: Yes
>> Headset jack: Yes (3.5mm stereo)
>> Voice recorder: Yes
>> MP3 playback: Yes
>> Audible content playback: Yes
>> AC adapter included: Yes
>> Battery type: 950 mAh Lithium Polymer
>> Batteries included: Yes
>> Average battery life: 12 hours
>> Serial port: Yes, with optional Compaq serial cradle
>> USB: Yes
>> Infrared: Yes
>> Wireless: Yes
>> Docking cradle: USB cradle included
>> PC cable: Yes
>> Other hardware: Two styli, vinyl slipcase, AC adapter
>> Software: Pocket PC software: Pocket Word, Pocket Excel, Pocket Internet
>> Explorer, Windows Media Player, Inbox, Microsoft Reader, File Explorer,
>> Asset Viewer, Picture Viewer; Desktop software: Microsoft Active Sync 3.1,
>> Microsoft Money for Pocket PC, Pocket Streets, Outlook 2000, Internet
>> Explorer 5.0, Media Manager, Tscribe, Microsoft Reader e-book samples
>> Width: 3.28 inches
>> Height: 0.62 inches
>> Depth: 5.11 inches
>> Weight: 6.3 ounces
>> Warranty, parts: 1 year
>> Warranty, labor: 1 year
>>
>> >
>> > Maybe - this is the monochrome - not color screen.
>> >
>> > Finn
>> >
>> > Donald Mei wrote:
>> >
>> > >
>> > > I just got this email from a "deals" oriented email list:
>> > >
>> > > OfficeDepot - Compaq iPaq 3635 PocketPC for $179.99 at Brick and
>Mortar
>> > > OfficeDepot (i.e. the actual store, not the web site) This one is on
>> > > clearance at your local retail Office Depot store. They`re really
>> running
>> > > out of stock though, and they`re not getting any more in. The SKU#
>for
>> this
>> > > product is 858-251. Best of luck!
>> > >
>>
>
>----------------------------------------------------
>Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
>Only $9.95 per month!
>http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anodizing fuel caps |
I'm not sure if chrome or nickel plating falls under the same
guidelines as anodizing. Can Van's (Usher) fuel caps be chrome or
nickel plated?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
------------------------------------------
> Subject: RV-List: Anodizing fuel caps
> From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>
>
> Guys, FYI for the archives, I did some more research on the fuel caps
> supplied by Vans (made by Usher) and was told that they can NOT be
> anodized.....they are a casting that includes other metals along with
> aluminum, and have a high silicon content. To get good results with
> anodizing you need a machined aluminum alloy. I've looked through some
> catalogs (Aircraft Spruce, etc...) and there are several other caps
> available that would work, but none of them look compatible with the
> Usher caps.....it would have to be fitted with their own filler necks
> when the tanks are assembled. So my fuel caps will have to be painted
> instead : (
>
> As a side note, the guy I talked to who does the castings said that if
> you don't want the paint to chip off so easily, you need to etch/alodine
> the caps before paint. Apparently the surface of the caps is
> contaminated by the mold release stuff, and just wiping it with MEK or
> equivalent will not clean it well enough for a really good paint
> bond......it'll stick ok, but will be more prone to chipping or peeling
> off than a surface prepared with etch/alodine.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: F6101 and firewall weldment |
Jeff, not sure what your driving at exactly. I am building a -6A and my
weldments were not predrilled. I followed Justice's notes on this. The
F6101 does get trimmed quite a bit to follow the diagonal angle. I've
looked at mine and you are correct, the last hole in the weldment is very
close to the edge of the angle. See Justice on this, I believe his notes
talked about this. The aft end of this angle, butts up against the F-604.
My drawing shows a dimension of 8" from the bottom (top in the jig) of the
F-604. Hope this helps.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: F6101 and firewall weldment
>
> Fellow listers:
>
> I am working on fitting my diagonal longerons between the firewall and
> F604 on my 6A. I have been trying to trim the F6101 gusset so that the
> angle the longeron I am fitting works out with the predrilled holes in
> the firewall weldment. The very last hole in the aft end of the
> weldment is causing concern, because if I drill through it and the
> longeron, the hole will be right at the edge of the longeron. Poor edge
> distance to say the least. I do not see any reference in the plans
> regarding the location of the aft end of the diagonal longeron. I am
> concerned that if I trim the F6101 gusset enough to make that last
> weldment hole work, I will reduce the distance between the angled
> longeron and the bottom front longeron too much. I have measured this
> distance just as a starting point on the plans and it appears that as
> drawn, that distance should be about 8". There is no way that this
> measurement works out the way the firewall weldment is predrilled. Is
> this a concern??? Should I go have a few barley pops and chill out???
> Thanks in advance gang.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
> I built the seat riser per plans, EXCEPT that I used only two ribs; one on
> each side. The inner two ribs were replaced with crosswise angles. I
> believe Randy Lervold did the same thing. I've had some mega bubbas
sitting
> on it with no problems at all. By removed the two inner ribs, you have a
> very nice storage space available to you by removing the seat cushion, and
> lifting the pan up. This can be a very nice place to store things that
are
> not usually needed...like some small survival goodies, a gun (you just
never
> know), paperwork, etc.
>
> By pulling the two hinge pins that hold it to the floor, it can be removed
> for really tall pax. You just put the cushion flat on the floor.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 279 hrs.
Yep, leave out the two middle ribs and put in a couple of stiffeners, works
great. And I think I made mine out of slightly thicker material than called
for in DJ's plans to help compensate for eliminating the two center ribs. I
thought I had a pic of mine on my web site but I guess not. I'll try to add
one. BTW, one of the benefits of using the riser rather than just thicker
cushions is that you build some angle into the seating surface. With plain
cushions I would think there's a tendency for the seat bottom to slide
forward.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL 151 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Shelf age of pro-seal |
Okay, I have a supply of pro-seal that's been in my fridge for a few years. Any
chance the stuff is still good? Anyone able to tell me how to test to see if it's
any good?
It's been opened and a modest amount used, but then it's been sealed and
fridged ever since.
I'm about to head back downstairs and finish prepping my tanks for riveting.
I'd love to turn around and finish these suckers later this week.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
Agreed. On my trip to Monterey, we were close to aft limit with all of our
bags. No matter your airspeed, it is virtually impossible to do a "flat"
landing. Your nose is pitched way up. and the airplane doesn't fly too well
at slow speeds. Van's airplanes are great machines, and are extremely easy
to fly. However, when you are loaded close to aft CG limit, it can be very
tricky to land one of these. (Especially with a lightweight starter and
wood prop).
Yes, you should test fly at all limits. However, I would wait to do the
test flying for weight and balance till the end of your test flying period,
so that you are completely familiar with your airplane's handling
characteristics. I got to where I could grease my landings just about
everytime. However, I was quite humbled when I flew with an aft CG limit.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gross weight
>
> I get the list in a summary form, so this may have already been said, if
so,
> my apologies.
>
> You can make the gross weight anything you want. So long as during your
> test flying, you test fly the aircraft at that weight and determine that
it
> handles correctly (I forget the exact term) I purchased my airplane but
> have gotten pretty familiar with the regs. One interesting aside. My
RV-4
> was built by a man who was a bit. . well large. (Bubbas in Vans
terminology)
> He certified the airplane with a gross weight of 1700#. But, not being
a
> stupid man, he stayed within Vans recommended CG specs. To keep within CG
> limits required balast. So, when I purchased my plane, it weighed 970#
with
> 30 lbs of balast hung off the front of the engine to move the CG forward.
> He w&b shows it is withing envelope with a 200# pilot and a 200# passenger
> and 20 lbs of bagage. Since neither my fiance nor I weigh anywhere near
> #200, I remved the weights and reworked the w&b.
>
> The bottom line is this:
>
> Legal Perspective: if you test fly the aircraft at all ends of a given
CG
> and GW envelope during your test phase, those are the legal limits. (You
> can even re-certify an aircraft for higher cg if you want)
>
> Common Sense Perspective: Stay within Vans CG limits, these planes get
> spooky when the aft limit is approached. Use Vans GW limit as a guide.
If
> you fly out of a 5000 foot x 150 foot paved airport, only fly on nice days
> and are a model of smoothness, the excess power and control authority our
> RVs are blessed with can allow you to operate safely at well over Vans
> recommended gross. Just look at John Johanson. His plane's gross weight
> was 2040#.
>
> However, if you fly from a 800 foot grass field and are fond of bush
pilot,
> full stall, drop it in type landings, then you had better pay attention to
> gross weight.
>
> Its all about your margin of safety and how much you need to feel
> comfortable. You make your decisions and take your chances.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shelf age of pro-seal |
Hi Joe,
The Van's sealant that I have is fridge kept and still seems ok after Two
years. I used it to seal the naca vents.
Opinion:
That said I would not trust it to seal tanks now.
I don't think saving the cost of new sealant and the work required should
things go wrong is worth the risk.
Jim In Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Shelf age of pro-seal
>
> Okay, I have a supply of pro-seal that's been in my fridge for a few
years. Any
> chance the stuff is still good? Anyone able to tell me how to test to see
if it's
> any good?
>
> It's been opened and a modest amount used, but then it's been sealed and
> fridged ever since.
>
> I'm about to head back downstairs and finish prepping my tanks for
riveting.
> I'd love to turn around and finish these suckers later this week.
>
> -Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shelf age of pro-seal |
This is my humble opinion so take it for what it's worth. But I'd say that
if its been in your fridge the whole time then theres a good chance its
still okay.
Overall if it's still workable and relatively easy to mix and stir, then I
doubt it's lost any significant sealing/adhesive properties. If its stiff
enough that you have a hard time stirring/mixing it with the catalyst then
I'd say it's old to use on your tanks. I have dug some pockets of "workable"
stuff out of otherwise unworkable cans of proseal to do non-critical
adhesive/sealant applications, and that still ends up working fine, but I
wouldn't use it on the tanks unless the whole can was still nice and
workable.
Sometimes the top does skin over and if thats all that's bad then I'd say
scrape off the top and go for it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Quality Construction |
Okay, there's been some discussion on building quality. I make mistakes. I
suspect everyone does. The most glaring ones obviously need to be dealt with.
I'm wondering when people decide to replace a part.
When riveting skins, do you redo every rivet you're not happy with, or only
if you have a few together. (I've sorta been using the theory that I'm likely
to do as much damage drilling out one bad rivet to redo than the weakness
implied by one or two bad rivets.)
How much effort do people spend getting rivets in JUST the right spot (for
those of use who have choices). Do you eyeball 3/8ths inches from the
edge (or whatever), or do you take the other extreme -- measure it carefully,
mark with a fine-tooth device, then center-punch it before drilling?
Basically, I'm trying to decide just how careful I need to be to do a safe
airplane. I'm not trying to win any builders awards, but I don't want the
other RV guys to take a look and think, "Not flying in that one".
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Building tip: aligning ribs |
Well, this might be obvious to everyone else, but I'm on the end of my wings
and finally figured out how to reduce my frustration on things like the fuel tanks.
The problem: matching the center of ribs in stuff like the fuel tanks or the flaps
with the pre-punched holes in the skins.
The old method: use a sharpie to draw a line down the center of the rib flange.
Sight through the skins then jockey the rib around until the line is centered,
or
at least centered within tolerances.
The problem: trying to move the rib around while looking through the holes
would drive me INSANE. I'd move the rib, look, move, look, move look,
scream, run upstairs for a while, go back down, move the rib... You get the
idea.
The solution: I used the same sharpie to mark the insides of the skins. Mark
alongside the line of holes on BOTH sides, 1/2 the width of the rib flange from
the holes.
You still need to eyeball through the skins, but the initial placement is always
MUCH closer. Frustration is reduced dramatically.
-J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
Okay, I've got my duckworks landing lights installed in both wings. And I'm
not very happy with it. I'm going to have to redo the plexi lenses before I
fly.
The problem -- the precurved shape of the lens didn't match the shape of my
wings. I don't care to wonder why too hard, but I choose to believe it's the
lens that was out of shape, NOT my wing.
I tried two solutions to this, with the second one tried in a few different ways.
The first solution was force. No joy at all. You can't reach in from the back
side, because you won't have access to the back once everything is installed.
So the force you are allowed to apply is relatively small.
So the next thing I tried -- I tossed the lens on a cookie sheet and threw it
in the oven. I slowly increased the oven temperature until the lens started to
sag. I let it bake like that for a couple of minutes, opening the oven to check
to see how soft it was periodically. I found that sufficient temperature to make
it mostly lie flat didn't heat it enough to make the part that was already pre-curved
the most soften up.
In the end, I had to reach temperatures very close to 400 degrees.
I then took it out and as quickly as I could, dropped it over the nose of my
leading edge.
However, as it cooled, the edges lifted up, so I still didn't have the right shape.
Repeated that a few times -- no joy. Tried heating even hotter, and
it started sticking (badly) to the cookie sheet.
Shut it all down for a day. Built a wing subsection that I can fit into the oven.
Used particle board and some galvanized steel I had sitting around. Got the
shape as close to wing shaped as I could, although the galvanized is a little
hard to curl. It's close, but not perfect.
I then tried the oven thing again, letting the lens soften and form around this
structure I made.
That got it closer to the shape needed, so I went ahead and finished the
installation. However, once done, I'm still not very happy with the shape --
it just doesn't sit in there flat, and I have a gap sufficient to fill the entire
area
with water if I fly in the rain. NOT satisfied.
If push came to shove, I could caulk it. But that's a pretty lazy solution. And
I
don't like the amount of local turbulence I'm going to have from a non-smooth
leading edge.
So I intend to try both lenses AGAIN. I'd love to hear suggestions. It seemed
like I was work-hardening the plexi, so I was afraid to just keep trying with
it -- I thought it might get brittle or something.
What I'd love to do is hang a sheet of plexi over the REAL wing and nail it
with a heat gun of some sort. Would that work?
---
I'm also not happy with the double-sided-tape method of holding the aluminum
strips on the inside of the lenses. That tape just doesn't hold. While monkeying
around trying to get screws to start threading, stuff comes unstuck. I'm not
happy about that, either. Does anyone have suggestions?
---
The duckworks system seems like a good idea, but getting the lens to fit
properly wasn't working for me.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henley" <henley(at)seii.net> |
Listners,
My RV7 is nearing completion so guess it is time to sell my RV6. It
is 160HP, Aymar-Demuth, slider, Orndorf interior, engine monitor, Elect
aileron and elev trim, elect flaps, Navaid coupled to Lorance airmap,IFR
equiped and much more. Completed 1998. 510 hrs TTAF and SMOH. $58,000.
Can email pictures.
John Henley, 850-609-3175
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | RV7 Firewall Question |
There are four gussets (two each) named F601C and F601F that mount in
corners of firewall shown on drawing 19; but, no parts are in kit and
there are no instructions in building manual about fabricating them.
Larry in Indiana, working on the Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
Hey Guys
Question...
do you have to remove this riser to get to the rear luggage department
??
Gert
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> > I built the seat riser per plans, EXCEPT that I used only two ribs; one on
> > each side. The inner two ribs were replaced with crosswise angles. I
> > believe Randy Lervold did the same thing. I've had some mega bubbas
> sitting
> > on it with no problems at all. By removed the two inner ribs, you have a
> > very nice storage space available to you by removing the seat cushion, and
> > lifting the pan up. This can be a very nice place to store things that
> are
> > not usually needed...like some small survival goodies, a gun (you just
> never
> > know), paperwork, etc.
> >
> > By pulling the two hinge pins that hold it to the floor, it can be removed
> > for really tall pax. You just put the cushion flat on the floor.
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> > 279 hrs.
>
> Yep, leave out the two middle ribs and put in a couple of stiffeners, works
> great. And I think I made mine out of slightly thicker material than called
> for in DJ's plans to help compensate for eliminating the two center ribs. I
> thought I had a pic of mine on my web site but I guess not. I'll try to add
> one. BTW, one of the benefits of using the riser rather than just thicker
> cushions is that you build some angle into the seating surface. With plain
> cushions I would think there's a tendency for the seat bottom to slide
> forward.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8 N558RL 151 hrs.
> www.rv-8.com
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
Did you try the "Duct tape handle" method of pulling the lens into the wing
LE from the outside as mentioned in the instructions? Worked well for me and
in fact for some reason it seems to work better than pushing it from the
inside. (if you could get in there).
Did you trim the lens so it only extends beyond the hole the minimum needed
for the seal and attach strips? Any extra will make it stiffer and less able
to form to the wing. I also ground/beveled the edges some since it did curl
up just a bit at the edges. Smooth the edges though with very fine sandpaper
as the stuff will crack at any stress risers if flexed.
The double-sided tape seems to take some time to get a good bond. Rough up
the surfaces and clean them first, then clamp the strips on overnight. If
that fails, just use proseal.
My best suggestion however is to call the man himself, Don "The Duck" Wentz.
He's the one who makes the lenses including forming the bend in his oven
(though I think he's now turned that over to his wife Janet.) They would
have the best advice on how to make it fit your wing, and are good people
and anxious for people to be satisfied with the product.
Their number should be with the directions. If not drop me a line privately
and I'll email it to you.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
Joe
My lenses originally also did not fit very well either and had to heat
them up too
this is what I did.....
I layed the lens inside the leading edge, before the leading edge was
installed and used a heatgun to heat the plexi (lexan ??) material
slowly till it was just soft/plyable enough to be pushed inside the
leading edge curve, then I let it cool.
The edges tend to curl if the material is heated too much (way too much
in my experience)
also, forming over the *outside* will get you close but will not result
in a good fit when pushed in from the inside. this is because the
*outside* of the plexi must conform to the *inside* of the leading edge,
what you are doing is forming the *inside* of the plexi to the *outside*
of the leading edge, the material thicknesses are working against you
here.
try using a heat gun and slowly pushing the plexi inside into the curve
of the leading edge.
this worked best for me but of course your mileage my differ, let me
know if you have any questions.
I used proseal to hold the strips against the plexi and did not use
anything between the leading edge and the lens. I will put a thin layer
of caulk or so on when I do final install.
Gert
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I've got my duckworks landing lights installed in both wings. And I'm
> not very happy with it. I'm going to have to redo the plexi lenses before I
> fly.
>
> The problem -- the precurved shape of the lens didn't match the shape of my
> wings. I don't care to wonder why too hard, but I choose to believe it's the
> lens that was out of shape, NOT my wing.
>
> I tried two solutions to this, with the second one tried in a few different ways.
>
> The first solution was force. No joy at all. You can't reach in from the back
> side, because you won't have access to the back once everything is installed.
> So the force you are allowed to apply is relatively small.
>
> So the next thing I tried -- I tossed the lens on a cookie sheet and threw it
> in the oven. I slowly increased the oven temperature until the lens started
to
> sag. I let it bake like that for a couple of minutes, opening the oven to check
> to see how soft it was periodically. I found that sufficient temperature to
make
> it mostly lie flat didn't heat it enough to make the part that was already pre-curved
> the most soften up.
>
> In the end, I had to reach temperatures very close to 400 degrees.
>
> I then took it out and as quickly as I could, dropped it over the nose of my
> leading edge.
>
> However, as it cooled, the edges lifted up, so I still didn't have the right
shape.
>
> Repeated that a few times -- no joy. Tried heating even hotter, and
> it started sticking (badly) to the cookie sheet.
>
> Shut it all down for a day. Built a wing subsection that I can fit into the
oven.
> Used particle board and some galvanized steel I had sitting around. Got the
> shape as close to wing shaped as I could, although the galvanized is a little
> hard to curl. It's close, but not perfect.
>
> I then tried the oven thing again, letting the lens soften and form around this
> structure I made.
>
> That got it closer to the shape needed, so I went ahead and finished the
> installation. However, once done, I'm still not very happy with the shape --
> it just doesn't sit in there flat, and I have a gap sufficient to fill the entire
area
> with water if I fly in the rain. NOT satisfied.
>
> If push came to shove, I could caulk it. But that's a pretty lazy solution.
And I
> don't like the amount of local turbulence I'm going to have from a non-smooth
> leading edge.
>
> So I intend to try both lenses AGAIN. I'd love to hear suggestions. It seemed
> like I was work-hardening the plexi, so I was afraid to just keep trying with
> it -- I thought it might get brittle or something.
>
> What I'd love to do is hang a sheet of plexi over the REAL wing and nail it
> with a heat gun of some sort. Would that work?
>
> ---
>
> I'm also not happy with the double-sided-tape method of holding the aluminum
> strips on the inside of the lenses. That tape just doesn't hold. While monkeying
> around trying to get screws to start threading, stuff comes unstuck. I'm not
> happy about that, either. Does anyone have suggestions?
>
> ---
>
> The duckworks system seems like a good idea, but getting the lens to fit
> properly wasn't working for me.
>
> -Joe
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8/A rear seat riser |
Are plans/illustrations for the seat riser on the web somewhere?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 1:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8/A rear seat riser
>
>
>
> > I built the seat riser per plans, EXCEPT that I used only two ribs;
> > one on each side. The inner two ribs were replaced with crosswise
> > angles. I believe Randy Lervold did the same thing. I've had some
> > mega bubbas
> sitting
> > on it with no problems at all. By removed the two inner ribs, you
> > have a very nice storage space available to you by removing
> the seat
> > cushion, and lifting the pan up. This can be a very nice place to
> > store things that
> are
> > not usually needed...like some small survival goodies, a
> gun (you just
> never
> > know), paperwork, etc.
> >
> > By pulling the two hinge pins that hold it to the floor, it can be
> > removed for really tall pax. You just put the cushion flat on the
> > floor.
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> > 279 hrs.
>
>
> Yep, leave out the two middle ribs and put in a couple of
> stiffeners, works great. And I think I made mine out of
> slightly thicker material than called for in DJ's plans to
> help compensate for eliminating the two center ribs. I
> thought I had a pic of mine on my web site but I guess not.
> I'll try to add one. BTW, one of the benefits of using the
> riser rather than just thicker cushions is that you build
> some angle into the seating surface. With plain cushions I
> would think there's a tendency for the seat bottom to slide forward.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8 N558RL 151 hrs.
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Firewall Question |
They are in the brown bags. #1981.
Steve
RV-7A
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV7 Firewall Question
>Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:39:26 -0500
>
>
>There are four gussets (two each) named F601C and F601F that mount in
>corners of firewall shown on drawing 19; but, no parts are in kit and
>there are no instructions in building manual about fabricating them.
>
>Larry in Indiana, working on the Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
I know the sim is not real flying but I still enjoy flying my Bonanza from
the living room will it is in.................ugh...annual(man, I hate this
time of year).
Question from a newbee. Any sites out there that have an RV to play with??
I searched the archieves and found only one microsoft flight sim for a 6A
and a 4 but the post was from 1999 and the URL is no longer good. Just
looking for something to play with.
Starting on my second homebuilt.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
New 7? Builder
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak autopilot system |
I have the digiflight 100 with GPSS coupled to a garmin 430. I have not flown
yet and have only pwered up on the ground. Chuck at tru-trak is a decent guy
and knows this system inside out. I bet he could tell you if with the
combination listed before on the handheld hookup would work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Try http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/hangarx/ It works with FS98 & seems
pretty real. There is a 6/6a, 8/8a & a Sonex TD/TG
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
> Sent: March 10, 2002 4:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV flight sim
>
>
> I know the sim is not real flying but I still enjoy flying my
> Bonanza from
> the living room will it is in.................ugh...annual(man, I
> hate this
> time of year).
>
> Question from a newbee. Any sites out there that have an RV to play with??
>
> I searched the archieves and found only one microsoft flight sim for a 6A
> and a 4 but the post was from 1999 and the URL is no longer good. Just
> looking for something to play with.
>
> Starting on my second homebuilt.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> New 7? Builder
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Shelf age of pro-seal |
Don't use it... If you don't know if it's any good, don't use it...
Today I had to remove my tank end plates, and clean all the crap off
them and the tanks, because the pro-seal I used to put them a couple of
weeks ago never cured...
If you think putting pro seal on is bad... Try taking off the crap that
never sets up....
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Larson
Subject: RV-List: Shelf age of pro-seal
Okay, I have a supply of pro-seal that's been in my fridge for a few
years. Any chance the stuff is still good? Anyone able to tell me how
to test to see if it's any good?
It's been opened and a modest amount used, but then it's been sealed and
fridged ever since.
I'm about to head back downstairs and finish prepping my tanks for
riveting. I'd love to turn around and finish these suckers later this
week.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
>>
>Hey Guys
>
>Question...
>
>do you have to remove this riser to get to the rear luggage department
>??
>
>Gert
>
>
Seat back cushion yes, but the bottom cushion and riser, no. It depends on
how thick your cushions are as well. YMMV.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Firewall Question |
Thanks Steve. I had the info (after taking your advice) all along but in
the excitement, after waiting a couple of weeks for the fuselage kit to
arrive, I seem to have for a moment lost a builder's required instinct of
looking everywhere for a part. You saved me some time, saved some
frustration as well, and I thank you.
Larry.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Firewall Question
>
> They are in the brown bags. #1981.
>
> Steve
> RV-7A
>
>
> >From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RV7 Firewall Question
> >Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:39:26 -0500
> >
> >
> >There are four gussets (two each) named F601C and F601F that mount in
> >corners of firewall shown on drawing 19; but, no parts are in kit and
> >there are no instructions in building manual about fabricating them.
> >
> >Larry in Indiana, working on the Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser:pic |
I found a pic of the rear seat riser on my web page at:
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage6.html
It's only one pic, but hopefully worth a thousand words.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cessna Master Switch |
There is a schematic in the Tony Bingelis books under electrical.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
The marine compass may not have alitude compensating bellows for the
inevitable bubble.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Whelan Paower Supply on Ebay |
A frend of mine is selling two newly yellow tagged Whelan stobe power
supplies on Ebay. These are the ones you put in the wingtips. Starting
price is $200 for the two of them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1711731716
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
How do I tell if it does?
The rear of the compass body, where is looks like it was filled, has a
thick rubber cover on it. How would it get a bubble, without also
leaking?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse and marine compass
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 11:15 PM
> To: 'RV-List Digest Server '
> Subject: RV-List: marine compass
>
>
>
> The marine compass may not have alitude compensating bellows
> for the inevitable bubble.
>
> W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizing fuel caps |
In a message dated 3/10/2002 9:35:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I'm not sure if chrome or nickel plating falls under the same
> guidelines as anodizing. Can Van's (Usher) fuel caps be chrome or
> nickel plated?
Electroless Nickel is a good finish for aluminum, although you need to ensure
that it is a good plating shop that does mil-spec work. Electroless Ni
throws so well that you can actually plate over scale and dirt, so lack of
adhesion would be the chief concern if the article is not properly prepped
first. If you want a matte chrome look with good adhesion, I would suggest
graining, sanding or bead blasting lightly followed by electrolytic or
electroless nickel plating.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flight sim |
Flightsim.com has a great RV-6 and 6A for FS2K2. If you don't have 2K2
you need it. File names are rv6a_2k2.zip
<http://www.flightsim.com/cgi/kdl/main/50/rv6a_2k2.zip?l7foR05G> and
rv6_2k2.zip <http://www.flightsim.com/cgi/kdl/main/50/rv6_2k2.zip?l7foR05G>
When I tried to use the older versions from 98 in 2K2 I had no end of
trouble, but these two seem to work well.
Jeff Point
-6 fuselage
Milwaukee WI
Dana Overall wrote:
>Question from a newbee. Any sites out there that have an RV to play with??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Gear leg fairings |
Wayne,
Go to the internet and find www.teamrocketaircraft.com ... once there, look
in their catalog under "fiberglass."
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Hey guy's, I'm new to this site. Who's this "Team Rocket" your talking
about. I'd be interested in those gear leg farings.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Engine Idle Speed |
Hi,
I am running a wood 3 blade prop with a harmonic dampener. Where should I
have my idle set on a carb equipped, mag ignition, O-360-A1A?
Since the prop doesn't have the inertia that a metal prop has, I thought it
might make sense to increase the idle a little. How much?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 54 Msgs - 03/10/02 |
| From: | "Philip Chapman" <chapmanp(at)us.ibm.com> |
03/11/2002 08:33:33 AM
Does anyone know where I can buy a race prop ?, I know all the standard
wood prop manufacturers, but I am after a thin chord section race prop for
a high reving 0-320 for handicap racing.
Cheers
Phil Chapman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
functions. Your comments please.
Best wishes,
John Furey RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thread - rope - cable was gross weight |
Don,
You forgot to ask if you need to Alodine and prime the lead
counterweights in the Rudder and Elevators! Thanks for the laugh.
Charlie Kuss
>snipped
>
>I was wonderring what kind of effect a nose wheel or tail wheel has on the
>way primer sticks to the aircraft as it relates to CG and gross weight. So,
>given my ignorance I have 3 questions for your really smart guys out there,
>that includes you Boeing engineers:
>
>1)what is the best primer
>2)Should I put the big wheel in the front or the little one in the back
>3)What should the gross weight of my plane be.
>
>oh yeah,I almost forgot, one more
>
>4) I can get a great deal on an H2AD, should I buy it? (and how will that
>one Extra large mag affect my CG and Gross weight. and do I need to prime
>the magneto?? )
>
>I think that the prime may have the most effect on my cg since it is prime.
>If I do prime, I could always put balast in the tanks with the proseal. ??
>
>Please advise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
John,
Before you decide to go with a VM 1000, take a look at the IK-2000. We have
hashed this out a bit several months ago, but this is a really cool unit
with great features... I think it is the best engine monitor on the
market...for less Canadian (or US) dollars than the VM 1000.
See it here:
http://www.i-ktechnologies.com
Jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: Vision Micro System
I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
functions. Your comments please.
Best wishes,
John Furey RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | New starter For Sale |
Listers--
I have a brand new Electro Systems starter for sale.
It is a 149 tooth model MZ4222 taken of a factory remanufactured IO360A1B6.
Selling for $200 plus shipping
This lists in ACS for $262 plus a $200 core charge.
Please contact me off the list at edwardmcole(at)attbi.com
or ed_cole(at)maximhq.com
Thanks.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
Hi John,
I too looked at virtually all of the engine monitors on the market. I have
put them all on my website with a "review" page listing prices,
functionaility, etc.. at http://www.steinair.com
Regarding the VM-1000 unit, it is a very good unit but like Jim Norman, I
personally believe that the best unit for the bucks is the I-K2000. The
lead time for a VM is literally months.
Some quick benefits of the IK (not to bring up a previous list argument)
that I see are:
Quick "one look" scan. All CHT's and EGT's in one glance.
Everything normal is "in the green". Anything out of range is RED.
The unit has multiple processors, and is much more fault tolerant than the
VM.
It also displays Alitude, Fuel Flow, Airspeed, Mode C, OAT, MP, Oil Press.
Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Amps, Volts, RPM, % fuel remaining, and a few more
added functions.
The units can be separated for a tandem (RV-8) aircraft, and also fit nicely
in a standard radio stack.
Anyway, you can see more details on my website or send me a message
offline. I'd be happy to discuss with you.
Good Luck,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Seats & Seatbelts.
I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
functions. Your comments please.
Best wishes,
John Furey RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System |
I went with the VM1000 (haven't flown yet) in that it takes up minimal
space, relatively speaking, and was quite easy to plumb/wire (also
relatively speaking). If one adds the EI gages together, the VM1000 is
actually less expensive! Good luck.
Rick Jory (RV8A)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Vision Micro System
>
> John,
> Before you decide to go with a VM 1000, take a look at the IK-2000. We
have
> hashed this out a bit several months ago, but this is a really cool unit
> with great features... I think it is the best engine monitor on the
> market...for less Canadian (or US) dollars than the VM 1000.
>
> See it here:
> http://www.i-ktechnologies.com
>
> Jim
> tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Furey
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vision Micro System
>
>
> I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
> in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
> reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
> functions. Your comments please.
>
> Best wishes,
> John Furey RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
I had no problems. Followed the instructions to the T though.
Chuck
> Did you try the "Duct tape handle" method of pulling the lens into the
wing
> LE from the outside as mentioned in the instructions? Worked well for me
and
> in fact for some reason it seems to work better than pushing it from the
> inside. (if you could get in there).
>
> Did you trim the lens so it only extends beyond the hole the minimum
needed
> for the seal and attach strips? Any extra will make it stiffer and less
able
> to form to the wing. I also ground/beveled the edges some since it did
curl
> up just a bit at the edges. Smooth the edges though with very fine
sandpaper
> as the stuff will crack at any stress risers if flexed.
>
> The double-sided tape seems to take some time to get a good bond. Rough
up
> the surfaces and clean them first, then clamp the strips on overnight. If
> that fails, just use proseal.
>
> My best suggestion however is to call the man himself, Don "The Duck"
Wentz.
> He's the one who makes the lenses including forming the bend in his oven
> (though I think he's now turned that over to his wife Janet.) They would
> have the best advice on how to make it fit your wing, and are good people
> and anxious for people to be satisfied with the product.
>
> Their number should be with the directions. If not drop me a line
privately
> and I'll email it to you.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
Nice comparisons. Thanks. The ACS price is available now ($3250). It's my
favorite, except for the price. The I-K 2000 looks awful busy to me.
Larry
RV-8 fuse
http://BowenAero.com
--- Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> I too looked at virtually all of the engine monitors on the market. I have
> put them all on my website with a "review" page listing prices,
> functionaility, etc.. at http://www.steinair.com
>
> Regarding the VM-1000 unit, it is a very good unit but like Jim Norman, I
> personally believe that the best unit for the bucks is the I-K2000. The
> lead time for a VM is literally months.
>
> Some quick benefits of the IK (not to bring up a previous list argument)
> that I see are:
>
> Quick "one look" scan. All CHT's and EGT's in one glance.
> Everything normal is "in the green". Anything out of range is RED.
> The unit has multiple processors, and is much more fault tolerant than the
> VM.
> It also displays Alitude, Fuel Flow, Airspeed, Mode C, OAT, MP, Oil Press.
> Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Amps, Volts, RPM, % fuel remaining, and a few more
> added functions.
>
> The units can be separated for a tandem (RV-8) aircraft, and also fit nicely
> in a standard radio stack.
>
> Anyway, you can see more details on my website or send me a message
> offline. I'd be happy to discuss with you.
>
> Good Luck,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, Seats & Seatbelts.
>
>
> I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
> in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
> reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
> functions. Your comments please.
>
> Best wishes,
> John Furey RV6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhett Westerman" <rhettwesterman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
I do not see where the IK unit has an autotrack feature like the vision. That feature
saved my XXX and kept me from having a dead stick. That feature alone makes
the Vision the choice for me....
Rhett
From: "Stein Bruch" <STEIN(at)STEINAIR.COM>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Vision Micro System
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:35:16 -0600
-- RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
Hi John,
I too looked at virtually all of the engine monitors on the market. I have
put them all on my website with a "review" page listing prices,
functionaility, etc.. at http://www.steinair.com
Regarding the VM-1000 unit, it is a very good unit but like Jim Norman, I
personally believe that the best unit for the bucks is the I-K2000. The
lead time for a VM is literally months.
Some quick benefits of the IK (not to bring up a previous list argument)
that I see are:
Quick "one look" scan. All CHT's and EGT's in one glance.
Everything normal is "in the green". Anything out of range is RED.
The unit has multiple processors, and is much more fault tolerant than the
VM.
It also displays Alitude, Fuel Flow, Airspeed, Mode C, OAT, MP, Oil Press.
Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Amps, Volts, RPM, % fuel remaining, and a few more
added functions.
The units can be separated for a tandem (RV-8) aircraft, and also fit nicely
in a standard radio stack.
Anyway, you can see more details on my website or send me a message
offline. I'd be happy to discuss with you.
Good Luck,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Seats Seatbelts.
-- RV-List message posted by: "John Furey"
I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
functions. Your comments please.
Best wishes,
John Furey RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
Looks like Van liked the IK-2000 enough to put it in the new RV-9 taildragger.....
Laird
SoCal
--- Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> I too looked at virtually all of the engine monitors on the market. I have
> put them all on my website with a "review" page listing prices,
> functionaility, etc.. at http://www.steinair.com
>
> Regarding the VM-1000 unit, it is a very good unit but like Jim Norman, I
> personally believe that the best unit for the bucks is the I-K2000. The
> lead time for a VM is literally months.
>
> Some quick benefits of the IK (not to bring up a previous list argument)
> that I see are:
>
> Quick "one look" scan. All CHT's and EGT's in one glance.
> Everything normal is "in the green". Anything out of range is RED.
> The unit has multiple processors, and is much more fault tolerant than the
> VM.
> It also displays Alitude, Fuel Flow, Airspeed, Mode C, OAT, MP, Oil Press.
> Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Amps, Volts, RPM, % fuel remaining, and a few more
> added functions.
>
> The units can be separated for a tandem (RV-8) aircraft, and also fit nicely
> in a standard radio stack.
>
> Anyway, you can see more details on my website or send me a message
> offline. I'd be happy to discuss with you.
>
> Good Luck,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, Seats & Seatbelts.
>
>
> I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
> in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
> reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
> functions. Your comments please.
>
> Best wishes,
> John Furey RV6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>
>If one adds the EI gages together, the VM1000 is
> actually less expensive!
Flip side...less expensive until it breaks (like all the other all-in-one
solutions). Ask me how I know :(
Rob Acker (RV-6, all seperate gauges next project).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Info |
Larry and others,
The wrench is a 0-200 inch pound unit. It is not on-line that I could find.
It was in a catalog I got months ago. Also, for calibration try:
Western States Calibration, 105 West 2950 South, Salt Lake City, Utah 84115,
phone 801-466-1700.
Thanks,
Jack
> Larry,
> A pilot/A&P friend sent it to Utah. I will get the specifics for the
list.
> I have also had the Ia Air Guard check them in the past; they didn't
charge
> me a thing.
> Jack
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque Wrench Info
>
> Where is you take it to be certified?
>
> -Larry
>
> > Wanted the group to know the 1/4" 0-200 inch pound torque wrench I
> purchased
> > from JC Whitney just passed a certification. The tolerance was 4%.
Mine
> > was within 1/4 of a percent. I was pleasantly surprised.
> > Jack
> > RV8, wings
> > DSM
>
Is that a 0-200 or a 20-200? I saw a 20-200 on there web site.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness - What Size? |
Norman,
I got the narrow ones and they seem plenty wide. Especially since they have
the pads. I did NOT spring for the rotary buckle. The standard one works
very well and is easily removed with one hand. One suggestion. If you are
putting in the crotch strap, you may want to have them shorten the strap
length. I have a whole wad of strap that I either have to secure or I will
cut it off. leaving a ragged edge.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> Looking at the 5 point hooker harness available from Team Rocket for
> $312 USD, they are available in different widths.
> Which one is best for an RV6A?
> 1.75" or 2" or 3"?
> Also, has anyone bucked up $499 for these belts with the rotary buckles?
> Are they worth it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape
Joe, your post was fwded to me by a couple of RV-listers. I don't recall
getting
a call or email from you about your problems, but I'd like an opportunity to
see
if I can be of any help here. I'm copying it to the RVlist as informational
in
case you have raised questions for anyone else.
Note my responses to your comments in the body of the text below.
> Okay, I've got my duckworks landing lights installed in both wings. And
I'm
> not very happy with it. I'm going to have to redo the plexi lenses before
I
> fly.
>
> The problem -- the precurved shape of the lens didn't match the shape of
my
> wings. I don't care to wonder why too hard, but I choose to believe it's
the
> lens that was out of shape, NOT my wing.
---> Joe, unless you have a very early RV-4 or -6 wing, there is little
chance
that there would be a problem with the shape of your wing. The early wings
had
'section bent' leading edges and indeed when Van's changed to 'rolling' the
LE
the shape changed some. This caused a re-shaping of our molds used for
making
the lenses, as we heard thru feedback that there was an increase in fitting
problems. That was several years ago and we now get almost no complaints
about
fit of the lense.
>
> I tried two solutions to this, with the second one tried in a few
different ways.
>
> The first solution was force. No joy at all. You can't reach in from the
back
> side, because you won't have access to the back once everything is
installed.
> So the force you are allowed to apply is relatively small.
---> Joe, the instructions describe a very good method of 'pulling' the
lense
into the wing LE for fit and drilling. I assume that you properly trimmed
the
lense as described in the instructions. I'm not saying that you will get a
'perfect' fit, but if you use the methods described you should get a very
'good'
fit.
>
> So the next thing I tried -- I tossed the lens on a cookie sheet and threw
it
> in the oven. I slowly increased the oven temperature until the lens
started to
> sag. I let it bake like that for a couple of minutes, opening the oven to
check
> to see how soft it was periodically. I found that sufficient temperature
to make
> it mostly lie flat didn't heat it enough to make the part that was already
pre-curved
> the most soften up.
>
> In the end, I had to reach temperatures very close to 400 degrees.
---> Just FYI, we form the lenses at 280-300 deg F.
>
> I then took it out and as quickly as I could, dropped it over the nose of
my
> leading edge.
>
> However, as it cooled, the edges lifted up, so I still didn't have the
right shape.
>
> Repeated that a few times -- no joy. Tried heating even hotter, and
> it started sticking (badly) to the cookie sheet.
>
> Shut it all down for a day. Built a wing subsection that I can fit into
the oven.
> Used particle board and some galvanized steel I had sitting around. Got
the
> shape as close to wing shaped as I could, although the galvanized is a
little
> hard to curl. It's close, but not perfect.
>
> I then tried the oven thing again, letting the lens soften and form around
this
> structure I made.
>
> That got it closer to the shape needed, so I went ahead and finished the
> installation. However, once done, I'm still not very happy with the shape
--
> it just doesn't sit in there flat, and I have a gap sufficient to fill the
> entire area with water if I fly in the rain. NOT satisfied.
>
---> Joe, a couple of things. First, it is extremely difficult to make a
satisfactory 'mold' of the wing shape. By eyeball you may think that you
have
it 'close', but once the lense is made you will find that it won't fit. Ask
me how I know this ;-). Secondly, forming a lense over the OUTSIDE of the
wing
LE will make the curve WAY too big and the lense will never fit. The shape
has
to be molded to the inside curve of the wing, which is definitely more
difficult
than 'drape molding' on the outside.
> If push came to shove, I could caulk it. But that's a pretty lazy
solution.
> And I don't like the amount of local turbulence I'm going to have from a
> non-smooth leading edge.
>
> So I intend to try both lenses AGAIN. I'd love to hear suggestions. It
seemed
> like I was work-hardening the plexi, so I was afraid to just keep trying
with
> it -- I thought it might get brittle or something.
>
---> Joe, you are correct, it definitely DOES work harden from repeated
heating.
> What I'd love to do is hang a sheet of plexi over the REAL wing and nail
it
> with a heat gun of some sort. Would that work?
---> No, for the reason described above.
> I'm also not happy with the double-sided-tape method of holding the
aluminum
> strips on the inside of the lenses. That tape just doesn't hold. While
> monkeying around trying to get screws to start threading, stuff comes
unstuck.
> I'm not happy about that, either. Does anyone have suggestions?
>
---> Joe, I have to agree that the double sided tape is a marginal solution
to
this function. However, the numbers of cracked lenses that would occur if I
were
to recommend riveting that piece would be un-manageable. One option would
be
to use a very light weight countersunk aluminum 'pop' rivet to hold that
rivet
plate on. I may have some of these that I could give you.
Since the lense should not have to be removed from the wing more than every
few
years, I hoped that the tape solution would be better than many broken
lenses.
>
> ---
>
> The duckworks system seems like a good idea, but getting the lens to fit
> properly wasn't working for me.
>
> -Joe
---> Joe, before you spend any more of your 'building' time trying to make
lenses,
why don't you give me your address and I'll send you 2 new plexi lenses.
Try to
install them using the methods described in the instructions. Take into
account
the location of the holes in the lense in relation to the now drilled and
dimpled
holes in the wing skin, drilling the lense just aft of center of the holes
in the
wings. You should be able to get a fit tight enough for the 1/16" grey foam
tape
supplied in the kit to seal out water.
Very sorry for all of the extra time you have spent on this, please contact
me
if you need to discuss further.
Don "The Duck" Wentz
Duckworks
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System |
The IK-2000 has 4 separate systems, each with its own power source... so if
you lose some function, you don't loose them all.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of racker(at)rmci.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision Micro System
>
>If one adds the EI gages together, the VM1000 is
> actually less expensive!
Flip side...less expensive until it breaks (like all the other all-in-one
solutions). Ask me how I know :(
Rob Acker (RV-6, all seperate gauges next project).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System |
Hi John,
I have the VM1000 instaled in my RV-6A along with the VM EC-100, fuel
quantity system, OAT/CAT gauge, and chronometer. I have about 100 hours on
my airplane and I love the VM stuff. It's very readable at all times, even
in direct sunlight. Be careful of the VM fuel quantity system; it's a bitch
to install. I haven't had any problems with any of it, but if you decide to
install the VM1000, put the DPU in an accessible location. My guess is that
most problems with the VM1000 would be transducer or wiring related. I think
the rest of the components are very reliable.
Good luck and best wishes,
Jack Abell
P.S. I haven't seen the IK whatever.
John Furey wrote:
>
> I"m looking for feedback on the merits of using the Vision Micro system
> in place of all the individual instruments. Some of my concerns are
> reliability and what happens if you need to replace just one of the
> functions. Your comments please.
>
> Best wishes,
> John Furey RV6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Duckworks System |
Okay, some people have gotten a misrepresentation of the problems I had. The
problem isn't in the design of the system -- except for the double-sticky-tape
thing
My posting was getting long already, so I omitted some information.
The second lens didn't fit because I'd goofed when I cut the skins. I cut it
EXACTLY like the first one. Well, duh. It's supposed to be a mirror image.
If I wanted to land inverted, it was cut to the right shape.
That's why I had to reform the second lens in the first place. The first lens
isn't
a perfect fit, but I'd fly with it. Don gave me some tips about that, too.
I like the Duckworks system. I think once installed, it looks nice, and it's a
LOT
easier than cutting up our wingtips and installing something out there.
I don't like the double-sticky-tape method of holding the aluminum strips on.
Don
points out that trying to rivet the strips would crack the lens. I think using
pro-seal
is a much better choice.
Don's email to me (which I believe he has cross-posted, but I get stuff in digest
mode, so haven't received it yet) explained what I did wrong in trying to reform
the lens. I draped it over the outside of my form, which gives me the wrong
radius. Don and I will figure something out, and I expect to be happy by the
time I'm done.
So those of you considering the Duckworks system -- even though I had problems,
they were basically of my own making. Granted, I would prefer a means of
creating a lens that's actually flush with my wing skins, but that's impractical.
I think it's a good system that can look nice if you exercise care and don't
screw it up.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
I'm not sure on a marine compass, I just know that the airpath avi compasses
always seem to get a small bubble over time and that would place indue
internal pressures at altitude, so there is a flexible bellows that
compensates.
A marine compass probably doesn't need this, unless you are going to do some
significant surfing around Cape Horn.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks System |
If you take a close look at the RV-9A landing light cutout on the right
wing (as I recall) you can see where Van's boys did the exact same
thing. Cut the hole upside down. Close examination reveals the patch and
I would bet that with a little more work it would not be visible.
Gary
Joe Larson wrote:
>
> The second lens didn't fit because I'd goofed when I cut the skins. I cut it
> EXACTLY like the first one. Well, duh. It's supposed to be a mirror image.
> If I wanted to land inverted, it was cut to the right shape.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | 8th Annual Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
The website detailing the Twin Cities RV Forum is up and running. Guest
speakers will include George and Becki Orndorff, Jim Younkin (of autopilot
fame), Paul Irlbeck, professional builder, brother Tom Irlbeck, former Navy
Top Gun instructor plus others. Van's aircraft will be there. Plus we have
relocated from Red Wing, MN to the Golden Wings Air Museum in Minneapolis.
The website will be expanded as plans are confirmed. Here's the address:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/RVforum/index.htm
Thanks,
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A with 89 Gallons of Fuel |
FYI
When I did my fuel tank calibration and first fill up, we stoped at 60
gallons. I built the tanks per Vans plans, and when we stopped filling the
tanks, there we no leaks nor were the tanks full.
Airport manager assured me that there was nothing wrong with his finely
tuned and calibrated fuel trucks? I never imagined this would happen, but I
will never let someone fill my tanks without me watching.
Bob
>
> Nope, no turbine for this plane. Even though I've increased it's ability
to
> carry fuel, my ability to fill those tanks is still quite limited.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I just purchased a Prop Gov from Southwest Aero, in WA state, 206-575-8732. The
governor was freshly overhauled, looks like new, and was well less than half
the price of a new gov.
This is the Woodward #210195 converted to the same spec as the Woodward the Vans
sold for the Lyc. IO/O 360.
John is a great guy, and a pleasure to deal with. I highly reccomend him to all.
Regards
Frank Dombroski -8 finishing Fuse, on to the Canopy...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Builders |
on 3/10/02 11:56 PM, RV-List Digest Server at rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
> The tanks, however, presented a whole different challenge.
> Many, many rivets were bent over like nails
Jim,
I just went through this same problem last Saturday on my 9A tanks. Using my
Avery rivet gauge, I determined that I should be using a rivet a half size
longer than specified on the plans. This has been the case many times
throughout the project, so I put in some 3-4s and when I shot and bucked
them, they bent.
A fellow builder (thanks Jerry) offered to shoot while I bucked and we still
had the same problem. We finally decided to try some 3-3.5s as specified on
the plans and these went in just fine. They definitely look undersized and
are a little small according to my Avery gauge, but only one bent over.
Anybody have any comments or suggestions?
Mark Schrimmer
Up to my elbows in Proseal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A with 89 Gallons of Fuel |
Yowsa, Van's spec sheet on the 9A shows 36 US Gallons as the fuel
capacity.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-9spe.htm
Gary
Bob Busick wrote:
>
>
> FYI
>
> When I did my fuel tank calibration and first fill up, we stoped at 60
> gallons. I built the tanks per Vans plans, and when we stopped filling the
> tanks, there we no leaks nor were the tanks full.
>
> Airport manager assured me that there was nothing wrong with his finely
> tuned and calibrated fuel trucks? I never imagined this would happen, but I
> will never let someone fill my tanks without me watching.
>
> Bob
>
> >
> > Nope, no turbine for this plane. Even though I've increased it's ability
> to
> > carry fuel, my ability to fill those tanks is still quite limited.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
Don, That is service beyond the call of duty! Great!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape
Joe, your post was fwded to me by a couple of RV-listers. I don't recall
getting
a call or email from you about your problems, but I'd like an opportunity to
see
if I can be of any help here. I'm copying it to the RVlist as informational
in
case you have raised questions for anyone else.
Note my responses to your comments in the body of the text below.
> Okay, I've got my duckworks landing lights installed in both wings. And
I'm
> not very happy with it. I'm going to have to redo the plexi lenses before
I
> fly.
>
> The problem -- the precurved shape of the lens didn't match the shape of
my
> wings. I don't care to wonder why too hard, but I choose to believe it's
the
> lens that was out of shape, NOT my wing.
---> Joe, unless you have a very early RV-4 or -6 wing, there is little
chance
that there would be a problem with the shape of your wing. The early wings
had
'section bent' leading edges and indeed when Van's changed to 'rolling' the
LE
the shape changed some. This caused a re-shaping of our molds used for
making
the lenses, as we heard thru feedback that there was an increase in fitting
problems. That was several years ago and we now get almost no complaints
about
fit of the lense.
>
> I tried two solutions to this, with the second one tried in a few
different ways.
>
> The first solution was force. No joy at all. You can't reach in from the
back
> side, because you won't have access to the back once everything is
installed.
> So the force you are allowed to apply is relatively small.
---> Joe, the instructions describe a very good method of 'pulling' the
lense
into the wing LE for fit and drilling. I assume that you properly trimmed
the
lense as described in the instructions. I'm not saying that you will get a
'perfect' fit, but if you use the methods described you should get a very
'good'
fit.
>
> So the next thing I tried -- I tossed the lens on a cookie sheet and threw
it
> in the oven. I slowly increased the oven temperature until the lens
started to
> sag. I let it bake like that for a couple of minutes, opening the oven to
check
> to see how soft it was periodically. I found that sufficient temperature
to make
> it mostly lie flat didn't heat it enough to make the part that was already
pre-curved
> the most soften up.
>
> In the end, I had to reach temperatures very close to 400 degrees.
---> Just FYI, we form the lenses at 280-300 deg F.
>
> I then took it out and as quickly as I could, dropped it over the nose of
my
> leading edge.
>
> However, as it cooled, the edges lifted up, so I still didn't have the
right shape.
>
> Repeated that a few times -- no joy. Tried heating even hotter, and
> it started sticking (badly) to the cookie sheet.
>
> Shut it all down for a day. Built a wing subsection that I can fit into
the oven.
> Used particle board and some galvanized steel I had sitting around. Got
the
> shape as close to wing shaped as I could, although the galvanized is a
little
> hard to curl. It's close, but not perfect.
>
> I then tried the oven thing again, letting the lens soften and form around
this
> structure I made.
>
> That got it closer to the shape needed, so I went ahead and finished the
> installation. However, once done, I'm still not very happy with the shape
--
> it just doesn't sit in there flat, and I have a gap sufficient to fill the
> entire area with water if I fly in the rain. NOT satisfied.
>
---> Joe, a couple of things. First, it is extremely difficult to make a
satisfactory 'mold' of the wing shape. By eyeball you may think that you
have
it 'close', but once the lense is made you will find that it won't fit. Ask
me how I know this ;-). Secondly, forming a lense over the OUTSIDE of the
wing
LE will make the curve WAY too big and the lense will never fit. The shape
has
to be molded to the inside curve of the wing, which is definitely more
difficult
than 'drape molding' on the outside.
> If push came to shove, I could caulk it. But that's a pretty lazy
solution.
> And I don't like the amount of local turbulence I'm going to have from a
> non-smooth leading edge.
>
> So I intend to try both lenses AGAIN. I'd love to hear suggestions. It
seemed
> like I was work-hardening the plexi, so I was afraid to just keep trying
with
> it -- I thought it might get brittle or something.
>
---> Joe, you are correct, it definitely DOES work harden from repeated
heating.
> What I'd love to do is hang a sheet of plexi over the REAL wing and nail
it
> with a heat gun of some sort. Would that work?
---> No, for the reason described above.
> I'm also not happy with the double-sided-tape method of holding the
aluminum
> strips on the inside of the lenses. That tape just doesn't hold. While
> monkeying around trying to get screws to start threading, stuff comes
unstuck.
> I'm not happy about that, either. Does anyone have suggestions?
>
---> Joe, I have to agree that the double sided tape is a marginal solution
to
this function. However, the numbers of cracked lenses that would occur if I
were
to recommend riveting that piece would be un-manageable. One option would
be
to use a very light weight countersunk aluminum 'pop' rivet to hold that
rivet
plate on. I may have some of these that I could give you.
Since the lense should not have to be removed from the wing more than every
few
years, I hoped that the tape solution would be better than many broken
lenses.
>
> ---
>
> The duckworks system seems like a good idea, but getting the lens to fit
> properly wasn't working for me.
>
> -Joe
---> Joe, before you spend any more of your 'building' time trying to make
lenses,
why don't you give me your address and I'll send you 2 new plexi lenses.
Try to
install them using the methods described in the instructions. Take into
account
the location of the holes in the lense in relation to the now drilled and
dimpled
holes in the wing skin, drilling the lense just aft of center of the holes
in the
wings. You should be able to get a fit tight enough for the 1/16" grey foam
tape
supplied in the kit to seal out water.
Very sorry for all of the extra time you have spent on this, please contact
me
if you need to discuss further.
Don "The Duck" Wentz
Duckworks
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness - What Size? |
> I got the narrow ones and they seem plenty wide. Especially since they
have
> the pads. One suggestion: if you are putting in the crotch strap, you may
want to have them shorten the strap
> length. I have a whole wad of strap that I either have to secure or I
will cut it off. leaving a ragged edge.
The other option, which I am looking at, is having the crotch strap made as
a non-adjustable strap. Problem is, you don't really know how long it will
need to be until you have the other belts in and adjusted.
I find the only reason I adjust the crotch strap is to shorten it to take up
the slack the fittings tend to make over time. That is the only thing I
don't like about Hooker harneses: the fittings tend to "creap", not staying
snug, as you wear them during a flight. I asked Mr. Hooker about that and he
has a special spring loaded fitting that helps fight that but is more
expensive than the regular fitting. It may be a problem with any belt set
up.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: filling the tanks |
> Airport manager assured me that there was nothing wrong with his finely
> tuned and calibrated fuel trucks? I never imagined this would happen,
but I
> will never let someone fill my tanks without me watching.
Maybe it's me, but I would never let anybody else but me fill my tanks. It's
just a thing I have for several reasons. I know how much I am putting in: I
am looking at the level in the tank. I have yet to scratch my paint with a
fuel nozzle, spring or nozzle cap. The fuel is coming out of the 100LL tank,
looking BLUE as I can see it come out of the nozzle. Suzie Q gets pissed if
I let someone else fuel her and I tell the line person that. Have yet to
have anyone refuse to let me fill her. Just keeps me more in touch with my
airplane.
Course, I have this routine I follow when I am on a fuel stop that keeps the
fuel tanks caps on, the oil at the proper level and the oil access door
closed, and the fuel sumps drained and smelling like Avgas and not Jet-A,
the trim set for takeoff and the full swivel tail wheel in place before I
get in the airplane.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8A flight visibilty |
Craig
I have been flying my RV-8 for 3 months. The visibility is great over the
nose. Wheel landing are a snap. Much better visibility than RV-6.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRY BENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
Has anyone used pop/pull rivets to attach the trim tab spar to the bottom
half of the skin? If so which rivet did you use? I maybe be able to
backrivet it but my big hands keep me from using a bucking bar in there. I
am thinking of purchasing a longeron yoke for my Avery squeezer, will I need
it later or would it be $135 one time use?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RV9A with 89 Gallons of Fuel |
>
> Yowsa, Van's spec sheet on the 9A shows 36 US Gallons as the fuel
> capacity.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-9spe.htm
>
> Gary
>
WHAT??????!! only 36 gallons you say? Sheeet, ah new I shooda red the
instrukshuns. Us dumb-ass Canucks shoolda stayed in skool, but I had to quit
after pappy got et by a polar bare.
I guess them there Oztrailians can't reed to well eether, esspeshally that
Jon Johanson guy. ;-) ;-)
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6/8 Trim tab |
In a message dated 3/11/02 4:39:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net writes:
<< I am thinking of purchasing a longeron yoke for my Avery squeezer, will I
need
it later or would it be $135 one time use? >>
That yoke is one of the best tool investments I have made so far. The
farther along I get the more I use it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
I just got my O-360A4M back from major overhaul. The
starter ring gear was removed by the rebuilder to
secure the engine on its shipping pallet.
My question is how to install the ring gear on the
engine so that the timing marks are in correct
alignment. It appears that it will mount in any of
six orientations (corresponding to the six prop bolt
holes).
Any A&Ps out there who can help?
George
N888GK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
George...
The ring gear will only go on one way... One of the bushings has a
larger diameter than the others...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George
Kilpatrick
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
I just got my O-360A4M back from major overhaul. The
starter ring gear was removed by the rebuilder to
secure the engine on its shipping pallet.
My question is how to install the ring gear on the
engine so that the timing marks are in correct
alignment. It appears that it will mount in any of
six orientations (corresponding to the six prop bolt
holes).
Any A&Ps out there who can help?
George
N888GK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
George,
If you look closely at the starter gear you will see a small "O" next to
one of the six large holes for the prop
bolt bushings. This bushing hole will be slightly larger in diameter and
will mesh with only one prop bushing
on the crankshaft. This gear can only go on in one position, provided the
ring gear is oriented with the
alternator pulley side of the ring gear next to the crankcase.
It's really almost fool proof.
Ross Scroggs
A&P
RV-4 Flaps
Conyers, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: George Kilpatrick <aeronut58(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
>
> I just got my O-360A4M back from major overhaul. The
> starter ring gear was removed by the rebuilder to
> secure the engine on its shipping pallet.
>
> My question is how to install the ring gear on the
> engine so that the timing marks are in correct
> alignment. It appears that it will mount in any of
> six orientations (corresponding to the six prop bolt
> holes).
>
> Any A&Ps out there who can help?
>
> George
> N888GK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6/8 Trim tab |
terry
once i broke down and bought the logeron yoke, i used it 99% of the time
after that. it is more valuable than the 4 or 3 inch yokes.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
Unless his rebuilder didn't install the right bushings.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross A. Scroggs
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
George,
If you look closely at the starter gear you will see a small "O" next to
one of the six large holes for the prop
bolt bushings. This bushing hole will be slightly larger in diameter and
will mesh with only one prop bushing
on the crankshaft. This gear can only go on in one position, provided the
ring gear is oriented with the
alternator pulley side of the ring gear next to the crankcase.
It's really almost fool proof.
Ross Scroggs
A&P
RV-4 Flaps
Conyers, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
Right on Bill, AND make sure #1 cylinder is really at top dead center when
setting the timing. It can be 180 degrees out and still "line up" with the
timing marks. An IO540 can produce a very large, very loud fire ball out the
exhaust and/or intake if attempting to start in the later condition. I have
it on tape. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
> George...
> The ring gear will only go on one way... One of the bushings has a
> larger diameter than the others...
> -Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System |
racker(at)rmci.net wrote:
>
> >
> >If one adds the EI gages together, the VM1000 is
> > actually less expensive!
>
> Flip side...less expensive until it breaks (like all the other all-in-one
> solutions). Ask me how I know :(
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6, all seperate gauges next project).
>
Which one do you have (VM1000) and what broke?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Experimental aircraft myths |
Those of you that get Sport Aviation from EAA well want to read the article on
"Maintaining Your Homebuilt" written by Ron Alexander. It clears up some of the
myths that have been around here for years about do or do we not have to remove
the dataplate from a certified engine, WE DON'T according to this article.
Another thing worth mentioning that we have discussed here before is that once
an engine is installed on an experimental it no longer conforms to its original
type design and is considered "experimental". The article in SA also talks about
Airworthiness Directives, it say that the FAA does not issue ADs for homebuilt
aircraft but does issue them for things like engines, props and magnetos that
may be on our experimental. BUT this is what I found interesting because these
things are installed on experimental airplanes they are no longer "certificated"
and mandatory compliance is not necessary.
This stuff has been discussed here so many time with so many different
conclusions I thought it was interesting to see this view on these
topics.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install? |
Try this link, everything you ever wanted to know about propeller flange
bushings.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/service_publications/service_instruc
tions_recent/SI1098G.pdf
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Starn
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
Right on Bill, AND make sure #1 cylinder is really at top dead center when
setting the timing. It can be 180 degrees out and still "line up" with the
timing marks. An IO540 can produce a very large, very loud fire ball out the
exhaust and/or intake if attempting to start in the later condition. I have
it on tape. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lycoming starter ring gear: how to install?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | RV6 Tip up Canopy - forward weatherseal flange |
Listers,
I am at the point of installing the fwd fuse upper structure, a couple of
thoughts that I need help with.
I note that installation of the weatherseal flange to F668 has not really
been addressed in full in the instructions - both Van's and others, my
question is can it be fitted before the top skin/canopy or should I wait
until all these things are available before fitting. Also instead of cutting
slots and bending I propose to use a shrinker on the mating flange to get a
good curve - has anyone else done this? I also propose to do the same for
the instrument panel 3/4 x 3/4 .063" flange.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6 fuselage
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Securing Empenage Fair |
I am finishing up my empenage fairing (did I mention that I HATE
fiberglass???) and am wondering how to best finish the rear portion. My
fairing wraps around the front of the horizonal stabilizer. It will not
budge unless I splay the rear like two wings and shove forward. I remember
that someone had an accident becasue the rear swrews came out and the
elevator got caught by the fairing. What is the best way to secure this
area? Most people seem to be using two screws. What about extending the
alumium strip that forms the underside gap seal back to the rear of the
vertical stabilizer and put the "wings" of the empanage fairing under this?
Ross
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Builders |
Jim,
If you check the rivet specs, you will find there is quite a tolerance in
width/height of the shop head, as long as you stay within these limits there
will be no problems. Also the Jepperson Sheet Metal Manual makes reference
to NOT using the normal formula on thin skins, but to use height 0.66 times
the dia of the rivet and width 1.33 times the dia. This is contrary to
normal guidelines of using 0.5 D and 1.5 D as the normal upset dimensions,
this will avoid any skin distortion. My advice is if you use the shortest
rivet that will meet the specs. You will also avoid any of those "nails".
Throw away the gauge - it only causes concern, I use a vernier caliper if I
think any of the rivets are a bit out of spec and find they are always in
spec.
See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm for rivet specs.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6 Fuse
Dubai, UAE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Schrimmer
Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel Tank Builders
on 3/10/02 11:56 PM, RV-List Digest Server at rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
> The tanks, however, presented a whole different challenge.
> Many, many rivets were bent over like nails
Jim,
I just went through this same problem last Saturday on my 9A tanks. Using my
Avery rivet gauge, I determined that I should be using a rivet a half size
longer than specified on the plans. This has been the case many times
throughout the project, so I put in some 3-4s and when I shot and bucked
them, they bent.
A fellow builder (thanks Jerry) offered to shoot while I bucked and we still
had the same problem. We finally decided to try some 3-3.5s as specified on
the plans and these went in just fine. They definitely look undersized and
are a little small according to my Avery gauge, but only one bent over.
Anybody have any comments or suggestions?
Mark Schrimmer
Up to my elbows in Proseal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Tip up Canopy - forward weatherseal flange |
> I note that installation of the weatherseal flange to F668 has not really
> been addressed in full in the instructions - both Van's and others, my
> question is can it be fitted before the top skin/canopy or should I wait
> until all these things are available before fitting. Also instead of
cutting
> slots and bending I propose to use a shrinker on the mating flange to get
a
> good curve - has anyone else done this?
I did my weatherseal flange by the book then once it was installed, I used a
modern autobody filler to seal the transition. I spent lots of time sanding
and filling again, sanding and filling again,..... Looks very sharp.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Clark <lclark(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Subaru engine question |
Hi,
Well, I find I'm quite enamored with the EggenFellner Subaru engine.
Seems like a slick way to go, but I have a dilemma. I live near Denver,
so anticpate doing most of my flying at altitudes above 6500 MSL (most
anything below that altitude around here is TPA). The dilemma is that I'm
allegedly building an RV-7, and wonder if the 165 HP Subie engine is
enough engine in that aircraft for these parts (assume it's supercharged).
I'd originally planned on putting in a 180 HP Lycoming, so I'm thinking
the supercharged Subie might be "close enough". One thing I would
seriously consider doing is to sell my -7 emp and switch to a -9.
I'd like to hear from folks who spend time flying at the higher altitudes
as to their opinions of whether the supercharged 165 HP Subie engine would
be a satisfatory engine in a -7 at these altitudes, or whether it would be
a better choice in a -9. Van's says the -7 is designed for 150-200 HP
engines, whereas the -9 is designed for a maximum 160 HP. So I assume
from that, that the -9 would be a better choice to put a Subie engine in
in this part of the country.
Opinions?
(And please, I'm not interested in the auto vs. lycosaur debate. ;-)
-- Lynn
Louisville, CO
RV-7A empennage (allegedly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Builders |
I would suggest that once the "glue" sets, the structural value of the rivets is
not as important as say, for other wing skins. Consider the bonding power of
the pro-seal as not only making the structure leak-proof (hopefully!), but much
stronger than rivets alone... shoot, there's been a lot of Yankees, Cheetahs,
Tigers etc. flying for many years on glue-power alone! I would also suppose
that a "smaller" shop head would be easier to seal over than one that is
clinched over with a bent shank! DISCLAIMER: I have never built an airplane
before...
8
)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, ready to order the $5K box with the big bubble in it!
> We finally decided to try some 3-3.5s as specified on
> the plans and these went in just fine. They definitely look undersized and
> are a little small according to my Avery gauge, but only one bent over.
>
> Anybody have any comments or suggestions?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Up to my elbows in Proseal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Fin and Rudder loads--not RV related |
Listers: For all you aeronautical engineers out there: While perusing the
website for the old NACA tech reports for the year 1946 I chanced upon
report #838 titled "Consideration of dynamic loads on the vertical tail by
the theory of flat yawing maneuvers." It seems that at that time it was
recognized that alternating rudder inputs would result in increasing loads
on the vertical surfaces and that with relatively small rudder deflections
excessive loads could be reached. I would assume (always dangerous) that
Airbus either knows about this or that the work was later refuted. I have
had a couple of observations in this area. One time when flying a PIK 20B,
while in unaccelerated flight at moderate speed, out of curiosity I pulsed
the rudder quickly but not extremely, probably in a right/left/right/left
sequence. The result surprised me initially in that the aft fuselage and
tail started a resonant response that took a few cycles to damp out. The
bird was fiberglas with a rather small tailboom and T-tail. I assumed that
the behavior might be characteristic of the class of aircraft and resolved
to be circumspect in my application of rudder. Years later when testing the
RV-4 I did the same thing and surprisingly, got a similar response, albeit
with less amplitude and quicker damping. Comments please.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing Empenage Fair |
Ross,
I used screws back there. Its really not a high visibility area and as you
already pointed out, that is one place you don't want the fairing coming
loose.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying - finishing up overhaul)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Securing Empenage Fair
>
> I am finishing up my empenage fairing (did I mention that I HATE
> fiberglass???) and am wondering how to best finish the rear portion. My
> fairing wraps around the front of the horizonal stabilizer. It will not
> budge unless I splay the rear like two wings and shove forward. I
remember
> that someone had an accident becasue the rear swrews came out and the
> elevator got caught by the fairing. What is the best way to secure this
> area? Most people seem to be using two screws. What about extending the
> alumium strip that forms the underside gap seal back to the rear of the
> vertical stabilizer and put the "wings" of the empanage fairing under
this?
>
> Ross
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru engine question |
At 8500 MSL a Supercharged Subaru produces the same hp as IO-360 180 hp.
Both are about 150 hp at 8500 ft. The Subaru dry weight is a little heavier
than the Lyc is I remember right. With the lighter prop (assuming composite
prop vs metal prop on Lyc) I would say they are about the same (Eggenfellner
clains the IO-360 is 40 lbs heavier but he take into account reduced fuel
requirements which I don't agree with). 150 hp is plenty hp for a 1100 lb
airplane at 8500 ft. Especailly an aerodynamically clean RV. It appears the
2 engines are be very similar in performance at this altitude. As you climb
however the hp of the Subaru will be higher than the Lyc. Supercharged Sub
will maintain 150 hp to 12500 ft and Lyc hp will fall off to 120 hp.
I would definity go with the Subaru supercharged for flying out of a 6500
MSL strip.
Steve
RV-7A
>From: Lynn Clark <lclark(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Subaru engine question
>Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 03:01:26 -0700 (MST)
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Well, I find I'm quite enamored with the EggenFellner Subaru engine.
>Seems like a slick way to go, but I have a dilemma. I live near Denver,
>so anticpate doing most of my flying at altitudes above 6500 MSL (most
>anything below that altitude around here is TPA). The dilemma is that I'm
>allegedly building an RV-7, and wonder if the 165 HP Subie engine is
>enough engine in that aircraft for these parts (assume it's supercharged).
>I'd originally planned on putting in a 180 HP Lycoming, so I'm thinking
>the supercharged Subie might be "close enough". One thing I would
>seriously consider doing is to sell my -7 emp and switch to a -9.
>
>I'd like to hear from folks who spend time flying at the higher altitudes
>as to their opinions of whether the supercharged 165 HP Subie engine would
>be a satisfatory engine in a -7 at these altitudes, or whether it would be
>a better choice in a -9. Van's says the -7 is designed for 150-200 HP
>engines, whereas the -9 is designed for a maximum 160 HP. So I assume
>from that, that the -9 would be a better choice to put a Subie engine in
>in this part of the country.
>
>Opinions?
>
>(And please, I'm not interested in the auto vs. lycosaur debate. ;-)
>
>-- Lynn
>Louisville, CO
>RV-7A empennage (allegedly)
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A flight visibilty |
Craig,
Visibility is great!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8A flight visibilty
>Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 19:48:14 -0600
>
>
>List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is the
>visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a
>long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few
>things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help,
>Craig
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru engine question |
I would think that if the subie is supercharged it would have more power
above 6500' than the Lyc.
Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Tip up Canopy - forward weatherseal flange |
David, After having installed both flanges (weather seal & panel .063 flange)
I don't think a shrinker will do enough "shrinking" to make the curves necessary.
I went ahead and installed the weather seal flange before
fitting the skins or installing the sub-panel. I also would advise NOT installing
the sub panel and front skin until you have the canopy frame built and in place.
The sub panel and the canopy frame have a kinda of "chicken or the egg"
relationship!
Good building,
Tommy Walker
6A Tipper (Finishing)
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: David Roseblade
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Tip up Canopy - forward weatherseal flange
Listers,
I am at the point of installing the fwd fuse upper structure, a couple of
thoughts that I need help with.
I note that installation of the weatherseal flange to F668 has not really
been addressed in full in the instructions - both Van's and others, my
question is can it be fitted before the top skin/canopy or should I wait
until all these things are available before fitting. Also instead of cutting
slots and bending I propose to use a shrinker on the mating flange to get a
good curve - has anyone else done this? I also propose to do the same for
the instrument panel 3/4 x 3/4 .063" flange.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6 fuselage
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru engine question |
Lynn - Another thing you might consider regarding which airplane to build is
that the -9 has more wing area and a lighter wing loading than the -7. But,
more important, the wing has a higher aspect ratio which will give better
performance at the altitudes at which you're operating. This assumes you
don't want to do aerobatics. (and I like "experimental" engines). - Mike
>
> Hi,
>
> Well, I find I'm quite enamored with the EggenFellner Subaru engine.
> Seems like a slick way to go, but I have a dilemma. I live near Denver,
> so anticpate doing most of my flying at altitudes above 6500 MSL (most
> anything below that altitude around here is TPA). The dilemma is that I'm
> allegedly building an RV-7, and wonder if the 165 HP Subie engine is
> enough engine in that aircraft for these parts (assume it's supercharged).
> I'd originally planned on putting in a 180 HP Lycoming, so I'm thinking
> the supercharged Subie might be "close enough". One thing I would
> seriously consider doing is to sell my -7 emp and switch to a -9.
(snip)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Rivet gun malfunction |
Another day, another question...
I basically took several years off from building. Long story. Obviously I'm
back at it, but I noticed something about my rivet gun the other day.
If I press the gun tightly against the work surface and pull the trigger, it
won't fire. If I back it off a little bit, THEN it can fire.
Seems to me I used to hold it as tightly as I could against the surface to
prevent a wide array of problems. Which would mean this new behavior
is a malfunction.
Anyone have clues how I can fix this? I have one of the guns from Avery.
Note that I DO hand-oil my air tools with a couple of drops of oil at
the start of a session. However, the rivet gun sat unused for 2 or 3
years.
Thanks for the help.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet gun malfunction |
>>
>Another day, another question...
>
>I basically took several years off from building. Long story. Obviously
>I'm
>back at it, but I noticed something about my rivet gun the other day.
>
>If I press the gun tightly against the work surface and pull the trigger,
>it
>won't fire. If I back it off a little bit, THEN it can fire.
>
>Seems to me I used to hold it as tightly as I could against the surface to
>prevent a wide array of problems. Which would mean this new behavior
>is a malfunction.
>
>Anyone have clues how I can fix this? I have one of the guns from Avery.
>
>Note that I DO hand-oil my air tools with a couple of drops of oil at
>the start of a session. However, the rivet gun sat unused for 2 or 3
>years.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>-Joe
>
>
I had an Avery gun that did basically the same thing. It would misfire
randomly...just sorta go "phfffftt". I sent it to Bob Avery and he rebuilt
the innards...for FREE...and sent it back.
Your situation may just be a case of congealed oil or dirt in the mechanism.
Maybe a solvent clean followed by a fresh oiling would do the trick. If
not, send it off to Bob and I'm sure he'll take care of it for you.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru engine question |
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Well, I find I'm quite enamored with the EggenFellner Subaru engine.
> > Seems like a slick way to go, but I have a dilemma. I live near Denver,
> > so anticpate doing most of my flying at altitudes above 6500 MSL (most
> > anything below that altitude around here is TPA). The dilemma is that
>I'm
> > allegedly building an RV-7, and wonder if the 165 HP Subie engine is
> > enough engine in that aircraft for these parts (assume it's
>supercharged).
> > I'd originally planned on putting in a 180 HP Lycoming, so I'm thinking
> > the supercharged Subie might be "close enough". One thing I would
> > seriously consider doing is to sell my -7 emp and switch to a -9.
>(snip)
>
I live in Albuquerque, and density altitude is also a big issue here. Field
elevation is 5,380'. The current RV-6A that Eggenfellner is using as his
show plane came from here..sort of. Homer Rogers built it in Canada, and
sold it to Gary Seaton here in Albuquerque after I gave it my blessing.
(GREAT airplane). My understanding is that after this year's fly-in season,
Gary will get the airplane back. I should be able to get a flight or two in
it with the Subie and will report what I find. I know this doesn't help you
with your decision right now, but the expectations are that the airplane
will have similar performance characteristics, with the turbo keeping the
power up whereas the Lyc is pretty much outta poop right from the start.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | cheap and easy landing lights |
SNIP I like the Duckworks system. I think once installed, it looks nice,
and it's a LOT
easier than cutting up our wingtips and installing something out there.
SNIP
I'm sure the duckworks is nice, but if you have the RV-7 style wingtips that
come with premolded lenses and follow the directions on my website you'll
have a perfectly suitable landing light in each wingtip for less than $15
total cost. And if you decide you don't like them you can repair the hole
in the wingtip in about 2 minutes.
If you decide you don't like the duckwork hole in your wing skins... you're
stuck. No flames intended... just sharing info.
You can call me for advice, if needed. You can even buy a kit for this from
Bill Von Dane if you like.
It's all here... scroll clear to the bottom and look at the wingtip lights
section.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20t
he%20tail%20and%20wings.htm you may need to paste the long link back
together in your browser. If that won't work click on the URL below and
then go to the Wings and Tail section.
Vince Frazier
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skydog-8(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8/A rear seat riser |
Randy, there ARE pictures on your web site.
They are hideing under my name(the Randy Griffin part of
your web site).
Griff.
>
> > I built the seat riser per plans, EXCEPT that I used only two ribs; one on
> > each side. The inner two ribs were replaced with crosswise angles. I
> > believe Randy Lervold did the same thing. I've had some mega bubbas
> sitting
> > on it with no problems at all. By removed the two inner ribs, you have a
> > very nice storage space available to you by removing the seat cushion, and
> > lifting the pan up. This can be a very nice place to store things that
> are
> > not usually needed...like some small survival goodies, a gun (you just
> never
> > know), paperwork, etc.
> >
> > By pulling the two hinge pins that hold it to the floor, it can be removed
> > for really tall pax. You just put the cushion flat on the floor.
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> > 279 hrs.
>
>
> Yep, leave out the two middle ribs and put in a couple of stiffeners, works
> great. And I think I made mine out of slightly thicker material than called
> for in DJ's plans to help compensate for eliminating the two center ribs. I
> thought I had a pic of mine on my web site but I guess not. I'll try to add
> one. BTW, one of the benefits of using the riser rather than just thicker
> cushions is that you build some angle into the seating surface. With plain
> cushions I would think there's a tendency for the seat bottom to slide
> forward.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8 N558RL 151 hrs.
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet gun malfunction |
I sprayed some WD-40 into mine and ran it with the restrictor full open.
Just let it pound on some wood for a while. Stopped only to spray some more
WD-40 into it. I couldn't believe the amount of black gunk that came out.
When it seemed to fire normally at the right pressure setting I oiled at it
worked fine. Got that advice from some Ozzies. God love them Ozzies!
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet gun malfunction
>>
>Another day, another question...
>
>I basically took several years off from building. Long story. Obviously
>I'm
>back at it, but I noticed something about my rivet gun the other day.
>
>If I press the gun tightly against the work surface and pull the trigger,
>it
>won't fire. If I back it off a little bit, THEN it can fire.
>
>Seems to me I used to hold it as tightly as I could against the surface to
>prevent a wide array of problems. Which would mean this new behavior
>is a malfunction.
>
>Anyone have clues how I can fix this? I have one of the guns from Avery.
>
>Note that I DO hand-oil my air tools with a couple of drops of oil at
>the start of a session. However, the rivet gun sat unused for 2 or 3
>years.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>-Joe
>
>
I had an Avery gun that did basically the same thing. It would misfire
randomly...just sorta go "phfffftt". I sent it to Bob Avery and he rebuilt
the innards...for FREE...and sent it back.
Your situation may just be a case of congealed oil or dirt in the mechanism.
Maybe a solvent clean followed by a fresh oiling would do the trick. If
not, send it off to Bob and I'm sure he'll take care of it for you.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Graves" <cgraves(at)secor.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Propeller For Sale.... |
Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
Blades F7666A-2 (74")
205 hours since new
Include Spinner (Fits Glasair I but may work for RV's?)
$3500.00
Chuck Graves
cgraves(at)secor.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness - What Size? |
This will depend on how you secure the crotch strap to the fuse, how thick
your seats are and how thick you are. Mine are installed just far enough
aft of the control column that it won't interfere with it. I am at work now
so I can't measure them but it seems like I only need about 4 inches of
strap. I actually have the strap as short as I can get it. Hooker does a
very beefy sewing job. The webbing threads through the hardware and is sewn
together for ??inches. The double thickness webbing will not fit through
the hardware. I have the two hardware ends as close as I can get them due
to the double thickness of strap. What I would do is talk with the folks at
Hooker and see if they would customize the crotch strap. In my opinion, the
sewing does not have to be as beefy for the crotch strap as for the rest of
the belts. If you can, sit in the plane with you seats in and measure the
distance between where you are securing the end to the fuse and your lap.
Have Hooker make the crotch belt so it adjusts 2-3 inches around this
midpoint. Hope this isn't to confusing.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: Hooker Harness - What Size?
>
>
> Hi Ross, what length do you recommend? Is this for the RV-6, or -8, or
> what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit stuff, thinking about Hooker harnessses....
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> _______
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker Harness - What Size?
>
>
> Norman,
>
> I got the narrow ones and they seem plenty wide. Especially since they
> have
> the pads. I did NOT spring for the rotary buckle. The standard one
> works
> very well and is easily removed with one hand. One suggestion. If you
> are
> putting in the crotch strap, you may want to have them shorten the strap
> length. I have a whole wad of strap that I either have to secure or I
> will
> cut it off. leaving a ragged edge.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> > Looking at the 5 point hooker harness available from Team Rocket for
> > $312 USD, they are available in different widths.
> > Which one is best for an RV6A?
> > 1.75" or 2" or 3"?
> > Also, has anyone bucked up $499 for these belts with the rotary
> buckles?
> > Are they worth it?
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness - What Size? |
A reminder that the following also sells 4 and 5 pt harnesses for the Van's
series of aircraft.
www.icdc.com/~morristec/
They utilize the "Schroth" restraint system used on the Airbus and other
planes (many sailplanes use these). Part of this system is a harness
webbing that slightly stretches under G forces to reduce injury, plus the
"rotary" single point connect device (I believe team rocket offers this as
an option). I haven't ordered my belts yet, so I can't suggest these over
Hooker.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Hooker Harness - What Size?
>
> This will depend on how you secure the crotch strap to the fuse, how thick
> your seats are and how thick you are. Mine are installed just far enough
> aft of the control column that it won't interfere with it. I am at work
now
> so I can't measure them but it seems like I only need about 4 inches of
> strap. I actually have the strap as short as I can get it. Hooker does a
> very beefy sewing job. The webbing threads through the hardware and is
sewn
> together for ??inches. The double thickness webbing will not fit through
> the hardware. I have the two hardware ends as close as I can get them due
> to the double thickness of strap. What I would do is talk with the folks
at
> Hooker and see if they would customize the crotch strap. In my opinion,
the
> sewing does not have to be as beefy for the crotch strap as for the rest
of
> the belts. If you can, sit in the plane with you seats in and measure the
> distance between where you are securing the end to the fuse and your lap.
> Have Hooker make the crotch belt so it adjusts 2-3 inches around this
> midpoint. Hope this isn't to confusing.
>
> Ross
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: Hooker Harness - What Size?
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Ross, what length do you recommend? Is this for the RV-6, or -8, or
> > what?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A finish kit stuff, thinking about Hooker harnessses....
> >
> >
> > _______
> > From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker Harness - What Size?
> >
> >
> > Norman,
> >
> > I got the narrow ones and they seem plenty wide. Especially since they
> > have
> > the pads. I did NOT spring for the rotary buckle. The standard one
> > works
> > very well and is easily removed with one hand. One suggestion. If you
> > are
> > putting in the crotch strap, you may want to have them shorten the strap
> > length. I have a whole wad of strap that I either have to secure or I
> > will
> > cut it off. leaving a ragged edge.
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> > > Looking at the 5 point hooker harness available from Team Rocket for
> > > $312 USD, they are available in different widths.
> > > Which one is best for an RV6A?
> > > 1.75" or 2" or 3"?
> > > Also, has anyone bucked up $499 for these belts with the rotary
> > buckles?
> > > Are they worth it?
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Camloc part no's |
Dear Fellow RV-List'ers,
After battling with the side hinges on my RV-4 cowling, I've decided to
abandon the side hinges in favor of camlocs. I want to keep the hinge on
the top and rear portions of the cowling. I called Skybolt and explained
what I was trying to do. He said no problem, we'll sell you a kit for $300.
I said that I don't need a whole kit, I just need enough camlocs to do the
sides of my cowling and what are the part no's so I can order them from you.
The salesman got very huffy and suspicious at this point. He spent the next
minute or so explaining to me how he was not going to "give away" the
contents of his kit just so I could go order them some place cheaper. His
words and tone were very suspicious and accusatory. ??!! I find it odd too
because I thought Skybolt manufactures their own camlocs... where else did
he think I was going to find Skybolt camlocs. It's a shame, I would have
preferred to use their camlocs.
Now, he was willing to give me the part numbers if I supplied my credit card
number immediately. I elected not to do so because I had other parts to
order and I wanted to supply a complete list which I had not, as of that
time, compiled. I politely thanked him for his time and hung up. I fully
intended to order the camlocs from Skybolt but by the end of the
conversation he was right, I will be ordering the camlocs somewhere else.
Now, I'm not too up to date on my camloc lore, could someone please tell me
what type of camlocs I should order? What parts will I need besides the
camloc itself and the recepticle? Any special tools?
Disclaimer: I understand that many of you have had very good experiences
with Skybolt and I'm sure their product is very good. But my experience
with Pete on the phone this morning turned me off of Skybolt. It is not my
intent to defame or steer any customers away from Skybolt. I'm just
relating my experience with the company.
Original to RV-List(at)matronics.com
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Zrxordeath(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fin and Rudder loads--not RV related |
From a rank amateur, Gordon, I am about as new to flying as you can get,
having about 35 hours, and just finishing up my cross country solos. I
discovered exactly the phenomenon you are describing while flying a Cessna
152. While cruising along one day, just messing around a little, to "see what
would happen", I quickly deflected the rudder back and forth, a small amount.
It felt really "weird", so I craned my neck around like an owl, and did it
again (quick learner). I was shocked to see the whole empennage wagging
around indepenent of the fuselage, and VERY quickly added this activity to
the "Dont do" list. After landing, my buddy who runs the fuel truck, pulled
up, to fill the plane, and I asked him about it. His eyes got a little wide,
and he said he'd done the same thing, with the same result, and conclusion. I
don't know the aerodynamics behind it, but it looked scary as hell, and I
will remember this when I test fly my RV-7A, in a year or so. I imagine
things like this can cause bad events to happen. Is this a form of flutter?
Anyway, I will be doing a lot of reading, before I put on my "test pilot"
hat. It served as a reminder that I definately dont know it all. Not by a
long shot. Good luck all, Kyle Beckstrom RV7A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camloc part no's |
This is not the answer you wanted. But, I would recommend getting their
catalog. This will give you the parts and pictures of the different type of
camlocs. Yes, there are a lot of different variations, and it took me a few
hours of studing the catalog before I decided what I needed (much of it
comes down to your personal preference). The catalog also has a great "how
to section" with pictures, and it is written just for the RV-4. However, an
RV is an RV and a Camloc is a Camloc so the instructions will easily
translate to the other RVs.
Like most piecies of equipment, it does not come with instructions, that is
why the catalog is important. Also you probably will want a couple of the
camloc tools (I highly recommend the grommet tool), without them it can be a
real pain! It is all in the catalog.
Bob
>
> Dear Fellow RV-List'ers,
>
> After battling with the side hinges on my RV-4 cowling, I've decided to
> abandon the side hinges in favor of camlocs. I want to keep the hinge on
> the top and rear portions of the cowling. I called Skybolt and explained
> what I was trying to do. He said no problem, we'll sell you a kit for
$300.
> I said that I don't need a whole kit, I just need enough camlocs to do the
> sides of my cowling and what are the part no's so I can order them from
you.
> The salesman got very huffy and suspicious at this point. He spent the
next
> minute or so explaining to me how he was not going to "give away" the
> contents of his kit just so I could go order them some place cheaper. His
> words and tone were very suspicious and accusatory. ??!! I find it odd
too
> because I thought Skybolt manufactures their own camlocs... where else did
> he think I was going to find Skybolt camlocs. It's a shame, I would have
> preferred to use their camlocs.
>
> Now, he was willing to give me the part numbers if I supplied my credit
card
> number immediately. I elected not to do so because I had other parts to
> order and I wanted to supply a complete list which I had not, as of that
> time, compiled. I politely thanked him for his time and hung up. I fully
> intended to order the camlocs from Skybolt but by the end of the
> conversation he was right, I will be ordering the camlocs somewhere else.
>
> Now, I'm not too up to date on my camloc lore, could someone please tell
me
> what type of camlocs I should order? What parts will I need besides the
> camloc itself and the recepticle? Any special tools?
>
> Disclaimer: I understand that many of you have had very good experiences
> with Skybolt and I'm sure their product is very good. But my experience
> with Pete on the phone this morning turned me off of Skybolt. It is not
my
> intent to defame or steer any customers away from Skybolt. I'm just
> relating my experience with the company.
>
> Original to RV-List(at)matronics.com
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | A baffling question... |
The little drawing that came with my baffle kit doesn't do a great job
of depicting the layout of the seal material. I've managed to figure
out everything but the proper orientation of the two pieces that span
the small gap between the forward, horizontal baffles and the lower
cowling inlets. It seems to make sense to rivet the material to the
underside of the inlet and rest it on top of the baffle, but I can't
recall ever seeing an RV with rivet heads inside the inlets. Can this
be right, or am I missing something here?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
last 90%
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRY BENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Oil canning RV-8 elevator |
I am about to final rivet my left elevator and found that I now have oil
canning only
on the bottom half outboard of the trim tab. I have taken the skeleton out
of the skin
and put clecos in every hole with no change. Should I try tightening the
trailing edge bend? Any other ideas would be appreciated Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: engine failure] |
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:32:51 +1100
From: Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au>
Subject: engine failure
Dear List,
I have had a couple of recent mid-life crises in my RV6. I thought I
would share them with the list in the interests of preventing trouble
for others. The most recent one was last weekend and went as follows.
I was tooling along in my RV6A VH-LDX. She is an IFR aircraft and I was
on an IFR plan but CAVOK at 8000 feet 55% cruise. The engine starts to
run rough and then quits (that fast!). I look at the panel and see the
H/L fuel pressure light blinking on my EI fuel management instrument.
I check the fuel pressure and it is 0.0 (low). I change tanks and turn
on the boost pump. The fuel pressure climbs and the engine re-starts. I
am now about 8 seconds into my in-flight emergency.
I am overhead a militiary airbase (runways dissapear over the horizons)
so make a call telling them I am dropping in for a pre-cautionary
landing. On the ten minute descent from 8000 feet (boost pump on all the
time) I am wondering what happened. The wondering is accompanied by a
slight fuel smell. On landing I turn off the boost pump and watch the
pressure decay to zero again. By the time I taxi to the visitors parking
lot I have decided that my 140 hour old 0-360 A-1-A has eaten its fuel
pump and am mentally writing letters to Lycoming.
Because I am due at a clinic 200 miles away I organize a rental car and
head off. Three days later I am back with a mechanic to have a look at
the problem.
We take off the cowls and I hop in the front seat and turn on the master
and the boost pump. The air around us is filled with a fine mist of
aerosolized gasoline.
Yikes.....
So what happened?
I have a priming system that taps off the gascolator to a solonoid and
thence to the cylinders. I had always figured that a leak in this system
would be a non-event because of the small quantity of fuel in the copper
lines.
Wrong.... The line between the gascolator and the solonoid had
fractured. The engine pump was then sucking air through the gascolator
and thus my engine failure. When I turned on the boost pump I solved the
problem but at the expense of pouring fuel out of the gascolator into
the engine compartment. I spent ten minutes or so on descent pumping
fuel onto my left sided exhaust pipes.
Someone smiled on me and I didn't catch fire.
Why did the line fracture?
I am not sure. I had an antivibration loop in the copper tube. I may
have overflared the small gauge tubing or it may just have work
hardened. Given the failure mode (unfriendly in the extreme) I am going
to alter the system and use a flexible hose between the gascolator and
the solonoid. A failure in a braided hose is likely to be much less
unfriendly than in the copper which fractured clean through and left a
serious orifice.
If you are using this system I suggest you inspect the gascolator to
solonoid connection and consider a change in materials.
I welcome any alternative suggestions and in particular what I might
have done wrong in manufacturing the copper tube link.
Safe flying
Leo Davies
VH-LDX
________________________________________________________________________________
Eight months ago today, at about this time, I launched on the fateful first
flight in my RV-6. Yesterday afternoon I got word that I was the successful
bidder on the salvage. Hard to believe it took 8 months to resolve but I'll
save my railings about the insurance company for a later time. I've fired
off the check and should have the plane back in my hanger by the end of next
week. So for all who asked, I'm now officially back in the RV building
business and will be re/building the/a -6. After all, I've got an undamaged
spinner and canopy. How could I not build another airplane around a canopy
that could survive that crash?
My current plan is to find an -6 (-6a?) project completed to the QB stage or
beyond. There seem to be a lot of tail & wing projects available but not
many with the fuselage so I am also considering building a new fuselage and
picking up a tail/wing project. I have not completely dismissed a -7 but
there's a part of me that wants to rebuild rather than build a new airplane.
And I KNOW how strong the -6 is. But then again it might be fun to throw
the -7 boxes in the air and have it come down assembled;
} I may revise my
plans when I get a good look at the wreckage and can inventory what, if any,
structure is salvageable. If you know of any projects available, please let
me know or pass my contact info (see below) to them.
Finally, thank you to all of you for your thoughts, prayers and concerns
over the last 8 months. It has meant a lot to me. An incident like this
gives you a much deeper appreciation for the bond between all of us and just
how special this community of RVers really is. I wish I was flying but under
the circumstances I'm thrilled to be back as an active builder.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY ...Rebuilding!
searching for Navion to fly
gyoung@cs-sol.com
Office/Cell: 281-376-0235 x123
Home: 281-376-2913
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Intercom recommendations? |
Hi all: I'm getting ready to order a bunch of avionics and having trouble
deciding on an intercom. I'm going no frills (at least initially), with a
single Icom A-200 com, a low end transponder, probably GTX 320A and no panel
mount music system. Given that, and no obvious need for stereo, I'd sure
appreciate hearing what intercoms some of you guys who are flying are using
and are either happy or not satisfied with.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, wiring (just starting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Camloc part no's |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com You can get a free tech book which is
great.
call 888-247-2738 to get prices.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
>
> Dear Fellow RV-List'ers,
>
> After battling with the side hinges on my RV-4 cowling, I've decided
> to
> abandon the side hinges in favor of camlocs. I want to keep the
> hinge on
> the top and rear portions of the cowling. I called Skybolt and
> explained
> what I was trying to do. He said no problem, we'll sell you a kit
> for $300.
> I said that I don't need a whole kit, I just need enough camlocs to
> do the
> sides of my cowling and what are the part no's so I can order them
> from you.
> The salesman got very huffy and suspicious at this point. He spent
> the next
> minute or so explaining to me how he was not going to "give away"
> the
> contents of his kit just so I could go order them some place
> cheaper. His
> words and tone were very suspicious and accusatory. ??!! I find it
> odd too
> because I thought Skybolt manufactures their own camlocs... where
> else did
> he think I was going to find Skybolt camlocs. It's a shame, I would
> have
> preferred to use their camlocs.
>
> Now, he was willing to give me the part numbers if I supplied my
> credit card
> number immediately. I elected not to do so because I had other
> parts to
> order and I wanted to supply a complete list which I had not, as of
> that
> time, compiled. I politely thanked him for his time and hung up. I
> fully
> intended to order the camlocs from Skybolt but by the end of the
> conversation he was right, I will be ordering the camlocs somewhere
> else.
>
> Now, I'm not too up to date on my camloc lore, could someone please
> tell me
> what type of camlocs I should order? What parts will I need besides
> the
> camloc itself and the recepticle? Any special tools?
>
> Disclaimer: I understand that many of you have had very good
> experiences
> with Skybolt and I'm sure their product is very good. But my
> experience
> with Pete on the phone this morning turned me off of Skybolt. It is
> not my
> intent to defame or steer any customers away from Skybolt. I'm just
> relating my experience with the company.
>
> Original to RV-List(at)matronics.com
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A baffling question... |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
De Jaw Vous all over again!!
This is exactly the same research, and conclusion I came to five years ago.
I still very seldom see any one with it done that way, but that's the way I
did it, and several others have been influenced by me to do it that way
since.
I used squeezed on universal head rivets with the heads up. Used a backing
strip of .016 for the rubber so the rivets wouldn't pull through the rubber
seal.
Works fine and keeps cool.
A gap of about .5 inch is needed. More and the rubber will flop. Less and
you can't coax it around when putting the lower cowl on.
Oh yeah, the rubber piece which you are going to rivet to the lower cowl
inlet needs to curl up along the sides also :+).
> From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 16:10:19 -0500
> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> Subject: RV-List: A baffling question...
>
>
> The little drawing that came with my baffle kit doesn't do a great job
> of depicting the layout of the seal material. I've managed to figure
> out everything but the proper orientation of the two pieces that span
> the small gap between the forward, horizontal baffles and the lower
> cowling inlets. It seems to make sense to rivet the material to the
> underside of the inlet and rest it on top of the baffle, but I can't
> recall ever seeing an RV with rivet heads inside the inlets. Can this
> be right, or am I missing something here?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> last 90%
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Failure |
> Dear List,
>
March 06, 2002 - March 12, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mm