RV-Archive.digest.vol-mo
March 17, 2002 - March 21, 2002
and I bought one for $39. It has an automatic switch from charge to trickle.
I just used it and it worked great.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
"The new owner may perform any work a Owner or Pilot is allowed to do per
the FAR's -:" Don Eaves.
Since an experimental is not TCed, anyone can work on anything. The problem
with the non-builder, he must get the work approved as airworthy at the
annual conditional inspection.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
The new owner may perform any work a Owner or Pilot is allowed to do per the
FAR's -
The new owner may not sign for the condition inspection or maintenance - He
does not hold the Repairman Certificate
You can sign for the condition inspection or maintenance - You will be
responsible for his work -
An A&P may also sign for the condition inspection or maintenance -
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 101+ Hours
Technical Counselor - A&P
Don Eaves
doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>
> Since I recently sold my RV, does the new owner have to have me or an
> A&P sign off on any work or condition inspection that he does?
>
> Das Fed?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Solution - Tip-up Canopy Chatter |
To fix my canopy chatter I ended up elongating the holes on the hold down
attachment. This pulls the canopy slightly tighter but not so tight that it
pulls the canopy against the roll bar. It is more like I simply took the
slp out of the system. My second choice would have been to put some
adjustable rubber bumpers on the underside of the back corners of the
canopy. I didn't need to go that far, but it might work for someone else.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
3 fun filled hours! :-D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | New Engine Break-in. |
Hi,
I just started flying my RV-6 with a factory new O-360. I am currently
running Aeroshell 65 mineral oil in it.
3 questions:
1. Should I wait till 10 or 25 hours for my first oil change? I will be
using Aeroshell 65 Mineral oil for the first 50 hours or until the oil
consumption stabilizes.
2. I will be running the engine hard for a while. How much do I need to
limit my practice of takeoffs and landings while at the same time providing
for proper engine break in?
3. What type of altitude or leaning restrictions should I be using during
the break in period?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E, (3 Hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
> The new owner may perform any work a Owner or Pilot is allowed to do
> per the FAR's - The new owner may not sign for the condition
> inspection or maintenance - He does not hold the Repairman Certificate
> You can sign for the condition inspection or maintenance - You will be
> responsible for his work - An A&P may also sign for the condition
> inspection or maintenance -
Not quite 100% correct. Per the stock experiemental operating
limitation (paragraph 23 in mine, others may vary), only the repairman
certificate holder or an A&P may sign the condition inspection.
ANYBODY can do maintenance work on an experimental. To verify
this, see FAR 43.1b, which says the FAR 43 rules don't apply to
experiementals. Thus the FAR 43 rules which restrict maintenance to
A&P mechanics are not applicable to experimentals.
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: charging odyssey battery |
I just picked up a couple of small "float chargers" from Harbor Freight for
the riding lawnmower and bike. They maintain that they will keep the battery
at full charge for long term storage. One float charger will bring the
battery up to full charge and then go to the maintenance mode automatically.
The other is much smaller and the battery has to be at full charge before
hooking up the float charger for long term maintenance.
Has anybody had any experience with these? They each were less than $20 US.
I haven't hooked one up to the plane yet, but it doesn't get a chance to
discharge. ;-).
Wes Hays
N844WB
230+ hours
Winters, TX
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: charging odyssey battery
>
> Odyssey batter users,
>
> What type of chargers are you using to return the battery to full charge
> after it has been stored? My odyssey is currenty reading 12.54 volts,
> which is 80% of full charge. I have been looking at the Deltran Battery
> Tender and the Deltran lightweight onboard charger(which also will work
> as a DC power supply).
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: charging odyssey battery |
Len, will this charger get the battery back up to 14.2 volts? Deltran has
a Battery Tender Jr which is similar to what your are using.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: charging odyssey battery
>
> I went to Batteries Plus and they had a small trickle charger that they
use
> and I bought one for $39. It has an automatic switch from charge to
trickle.
> I just used it and it worked great.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Hanger # 23 at INT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
I guess I was thinking more of the real world......more than likely no
A&P, AI, or holder of repairman's certificate is going to sign the log
book for condition inspection unless they have checked the work
(supervised) of the person doing the work. :-)
Sam Buchanan
===========================
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
> No, no one needs to supervise any work done on an experimental. The
> repairman, A&P, or IA is only attesting to the condition of the airplane at
> the time of inspection, NOT any work done.
>
> Bruce
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>
>
> I think it would be more accurate to say that only the holder of the
> repairman's certificate, or an A&P, or an AI can SIGN the logbook for
> the condition inspection.
>
> Anyone could actually perform the inspection as long as it was under the
> supervision of one of the above.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Show Grandchildren flying RV in Houston |
I would like to show my Grandchildren a flying RV. We are visiting them in
Houston; NE side in an area called Kingwood.
We can be reached on our mobile phones, 503 720 6211 or 503 720 1132, or my
son's house 281 361 3510.
Or, reply this email.
Thanks,
Bob
Sharon R. Haan
email: shaan(at)easystreet.com
Home Phone: 503 579-2729
Mobile Phone: 503 720-6211
RV6A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | panel dimmer size and panel compass |
Anyone have the size handy of the panel dimmer that vans sells?
I'm doing some final panel layout and realized that I needed to
know how much space to reserve behind the panel. Is the heat
generated a big deal.
On a different note, does anyone have experience with SIRS panel
mount compass. I like the SIRS Navigator that Van now sells but
worndering about moving the compass into the panel. Any problems with
position on the panel.
Thanks, Doug Shenk RV-6A qb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The concern is not for siphoning the length of the coils is immaterial
with regard to a siphoning action. The gas generally does not come out via
siphoning. If there were siphoning, the pressure inside the tank would
decrease until the pressure differential was zero, or the vent was above
gas level, and little gas would be lost.
Van has the up-and-over design to provide some hydrostatic pressure a
head of gas to help keep the gas in the tank on a hot day after toping
off. It helps a bit.
I would stress making the gas system per plans period. The Physics of
fuel transfer is not quite as simple as it seems and this is not an aspect
of building that is tolerant of design mistakes.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 115 hours
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Vents
Listers...
My good friend Scott (ABAYMAN) tells me the people are now running the fuel
vent lines (RV-6) within the wing root only. If I understand what he is
saying, they coil a length of tubing within the wing root, and then out the
bottom of the wing root fairing... totally avoiding taking this tube into
the fuselage up to the main longeron, forward and then down out the bottom
of the fuse (behind the firewall).
I have not seen this done, but it makes sense to me... the key is that there
has to be enough coils so that the tube will always have some air in it so
it won't siphon out some gas...
Somebody please direct me... How many coils is enough? Is there a preferred
place to put the little forward facing vents?
Thanks,
jim
(possibly the highest number of mods to an RV... going to the paint shop...
Finally!...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: panel dimmer size and panel compass |
The dimmer unit measures 2 inches X 2 inches and stands approx 3/8 inch high.
Leave a couple of inches on one side so you can get the wires in. The post
that sticks thru the panel is 1/4" diameter. The units are rated to handle
1.5 amps - so I have 2 on my panel.
Hope this helps.
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9 - finish & wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
When a certified aircraft is modified outside an STC approved modification
and then re licensed as an experimental can the owner who did the mods
obtain the "repairman certificate"? If so could not a new owner of an RV
make mods to the airplane and then re-license it with a new make and obtain
a "repairman certificate"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: charging odyssey battery |
The price is certainly right, but I do not know if these are compatible with
the Odyssey battery. If the battery has deep disharged, these type of
chargers will not bring them back to full charge. It would take more
amperage, which is dependant on battery size. The PC625 and PC680 would
need 6 amps from a charger output of no less than 14.2v and no greater than
15v. Once 14.5v is reached, the charger needs to drop to 13.6V and the amps
drop way down to the trickle level. A battery that has not deep discharged,
only needs around 1.25 amps and the same voltage requiremts previously
mentioned to bring it back up to full charge.
My PC680 has set for 15 months and it is down to 80% of full charge(12.54v).
In this case, a 1.25amp charger of proper voltage output can easily bring it
back up. There are chargers out there that appear to work, but in the long
run are actually shortening the battery life.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: charging odyssey battery
>
> I just picked up a couple of small "float chargers" from Harbor Freight
for
> the riding lawnmower and bike. They maintain that they will keep the
battery
> at full charge for long term storage. One float charger will bring the
> battery up to full charge and then go to the maintenance mode
automatically.
> The other is much smaller and the battery has to be at full charge before
> hooking up the float charger for long term maintenance.
>
> Has anybody had any experience with these? They each were less than $20
US.
> I haven't hooked one up to the plane yet, but it doesn't get a chance to
> discharge. ;-).
>
> Wes Hays
> N844WB
> 230+ hours
> Winters, TX
>
> "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
> Michael Collins (1987)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: charging odyssey battery
>
>
> >
> > Odyssey batter users,
> >
> > What type of chargers are you using to return the battery to full charge
> > after it has been stored? My odyssey is currenty reading 12.54 volts,
> > which is 80% of full charge. I have been looking at the Deltran Battery
> > Tender and the Deltran lightweight onboard charger(which also will work
> > as a DC power supply).
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok -6
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Break-in. |
Morning Glen & Judi:
Will take a crack at answering your questions based on the Lycoming manual
and past experience.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: New Engine Break-in.
>
> Hi,
> I just started flying my RV-6 with a factory new O-360. I am currently
> running Aeroshell 65 mineral oil in it.
>
The oil weights published in the manual are:
Above 80 F ---SAE 60
Above 60 F ---SAE 50
Above 30 F ---SAE 40
Above 0 F ---SAE 30
Below 10 F -- SAE 20
> 3 questions:
>
> 1. Should I wait till 10 or 25 hours for my first oil change? I will be
> using Aeroshell 65 Mineral oil for the first 50 hours or until the oil
> consumption stabilizes.
Your engine being new was run in at the factory and should not have any
problems but I have seen on very rare occasions internal problems develope
in the first hundred hours or so. It has been my practice to pull the filter
at around 10 hours and cut and check for any sign that the engine is making
any metal, then at every oil change. If your engine is equipped with a spin
on filter I would see no reason to change oil until your regular 50 hour
change. As you have done the mineral oil is a must for break-in.
>
> 2. I will be running the engine hard for a while. How much do I need to
> limit my practice of takeoffs and landings while at the same time
providing
> for proper engine break in?
When you say you will be running the engine hard the manual recommends 65 to
75 % for break-in and limit max continuous to 75 %. I tend to favor 75 % for
the first few hours while keeping a close eye on temperatures, seems to do a
better job of seating the rings. I believe that doing some takeoffs and
landings during this phase is a plus as you are using some full throttle
operation. I limit my full throttle operation to 1 minute and climb out at
75 %. I think the main thing is to keep the temperatures as even as you can
by using higher airspeeds in the climb and getting the power well back in
the circuit so as not to cool the cylinders so much on the approach.
>
> 3. What type of altitude or leaning restrictions should I be using during
> the break in period?
There would be no altitude restricions except at a hieght were you can no
longer maintain 75% power. On the leaning I use full rich at any power
setting above 75% and under 5000 feet. At 75% above 5000 I use peak EGT less
100-150 degrees. In cruise at 65% I use peak EGT less 50 degrees at all
altitudes.
This is what has worked for me over the years.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E, (3 Hours)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Van has the up-and-over design to provide some hydrostatic pressure a
head of gas to help keep the gas in the tank on a hot day after toping
off. It helps a bit.
I would stress making the gas system per plans period. The Physics of
fuel transfer is not quite as simple as it seems and this is not an
aspect
of building that is tolerant of design mistakes.
Agreed. Fuel related problems are high on the list of things that go
wrong with an experimental aircraft and fuel line designs are in the
mix. Don't mess with a system that has been tested in about 2700
airplanes flying.
"That's the way we've always done it". Yes, because it WORKS.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
(bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in case
something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will be
based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
anything large.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
airbox
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Listers,
To clarify my question which started this string...
I was under the impression that the coiled vent within the wing root WAS THE
NEW WAY TO DO IT FROM THE FACTORY. That they had abandoned the big loop
within the fuselage.
Sorry to confuse, as I guess I was not clear enough. My vent lines are
already in, and they are in the standard position as provided by my plans,
circa 1995. The question--rephrased-- is: Has Van's Aircraft changed their
vent design from the standard (as I already have installed into my plane) to
a simpler version that does not enter the fuselage?
I'll be the answer to this re-phrased question is: No.
I was not asking about modifying the fuel system per se.
cheers!~
jim
Tampa.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of KostaLewis
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Tank Vents
Van has the up-and-over design to provide some hydrostatic pressure a
head of gas to help keep the gas in the tank on a hot day after toping
off. It helps a bit.
I would stress making the gas system per plans period. The Physics of
fuel transfer is not quite as simple as it seems and this is not an
aspect
of building that is tolerant of design mistakes.
Agreed. Fuel related problems are high on the list of things that go
wrong with an experimental aircraft and fuel line designs are in the
mix. Don't mess with a system that has been tested in about 2700
airplanes flying.
"That's the way we've always done it". Yes, because it WORKS.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
Very difficult to license a Type Certificated as experimental. Even so, if
you do, it has extreme limitations like 300 mile flight limitation. Only
good for a year at a time and then you have to redo all the paper work.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Batteries. |
Has anybody tried the "BatteryMINDer $39.95 at www.batterymart.com ?
With up to 85% of the 70 million (Battery Council International, January 98,
12 months - Nov. 95 - Oct. 96) new 12 volt storage batteries made each year,
destined to die before they should, a new U. S. patent pending product has
come to the rescue.
BatteryMINDer Charger/Maintainer/Conditioner is the first of a new
generation of "Computer-On-A-Chip" technology. It conditions "sulphated"
batteries as well as automatically charging any type 12 volt storage battery
without ever over-charging. Dubbed the "charger with a brain", it is
believed to be the first charger of its kind to reverse the primary cause of
early battery failure known as "sulphation". "Sulphation" batteries that
were once considered beyond recovery can now be brought back to long-term
useful condition.
How BatteryMINDer solves battery problems
A simple press of the button starts the fully automatic de-sulphation
process. Unique patent pending PulseMode circuitry (U.S. Patent and
Trademark Office assigned Patent Pending Serial #60/083,473) creates
high-frequency pulses that break down the sulphated crystals. The battery is
then able to reach its full level of charge, without excessive heat
generation. Any 12-volt Maintenance or Maintenance-free type battery,
including Gel and Deep cycle, can be left on charge for months at a time
without fear of damage. Water never needs to be replaced while batteries are
being maintained with BatteryMINDer as the unit never "boils out" the
electrolyte. The unit plugs directly into a standard wall outlet (or
extension cord) eliminating the need to disconnect the battery from its
normal use location.
The Underwriters Lab (UL) and CSA LISTED BatteryMINDer has both Charge/
Power On as well as Battery Condition / Polarity indicators. The unit will
reject a "shorted cell" battery while ensuring a full charge to all others,
including deep cycle marine, gel and maintenance free automotive. Unit comes
complete with a simple to use hydrometer type battery tester, quick connect
terminal assemblies and a five (5) year "no exclusions" warranty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Batteries. |
Yes, I bought one and use it somewhat regularly for charging and
conditioning. Of course I have no idea what it's actually doing, but I sure
like what I read. Perhaps someone more technically knowledgeable on this
could comment as to whether it actually works.
Randy Lervold
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Batteries.
>
> Has anybody tried the "BatteryMINDer $39.95 at www.batterymart.com ?
>
> With up to 85% of the 70 million (Battery Council International, January
98,
> 12 months - Nov. 95 - Oct. 96) new 12 volt storage batteries made each
year,
> destined to die before they should, a new U. S. patent pending product has
> come to the rescue.
>
> BatteryMINDer Charger/Maintainer/Conditioner is the first of a new
> generation of "Computer-On-A-Chip" technology. It conditions "sulphated"
> batteries as well as automatically charging any type 12 volt storage
battery
> without ever over-charging. Dubbed the "charger with a brain", it is
> believed to be the first charger of its kind to reverse the primary cause
of
> early battery failure known as "sulphation". "Sulphation" batteries that
> were once considered beyond recovery can now be brought back to long-term
> useful condition.
>
> How BatteryMINDer solves battery problems
> A simple press of the button starts the fully automatic de-sulphation
> process. Unique patent pending PulseMode circuitry (U.S. Patent and
> Trademark Office assigned Patent Pending Serial #60/083,473) creates
> high-frequency pulses that break down the sulphated crystals. The battery
is
> then able to reach its full level of charge, without excessive heat
> generation. Any 12-volt Maintenance or Maintenance-free type battery,
> including Gel and Deep cycle, can be left on charge for months at a time
> without fear of damage. Water never needs to be replaced while batteries
are
> being maintained with BatteryMINDer as the unit never "boils out" the
> electrolyte. The unit plugs directly into a standard wall outlet (or
> extension cord) eliminating the need to disconnect the battery from its
> normal use location.
>
> The Underwriters Lab (UL) and CSA LISTED BatteryMINDer has both Charge/
> Power On as well as Battery Condition / Polarity indicators. The unit will
> reject a "shorted cell" battery while ensuring a full charge to all
others,
> including deep cycle marine, gel and maintenance free automotive. Unit
comes
> complete with a simple to use hydrometer type battery tester, quick
connect
> terminal assemblies and a five (5) year "no exclusions" warranty.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
Just to echo Cy's post, I know of a few "experimental" cubs, taylorcrafts,
etc.., but they have been very extensively modified. It is possible, but
very difficult. The FAA will not simply re-issue you a new registration
just because you change the engine or gear, etc.., and unless the airplane
is radically changed, then the rules that CY quoted will most likely apply.
That is the most common scenario when re-certifying a cessna, piper, etc..,
although there always seems to be someone who gets it done, and then makes
everyone think it's simple and very common. Sorry, but not usually so.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Failed primer systems |
> I've tried the "pump the throttle" method a few times since, and it's worked
> as reliably as the primer. However, I haven't tried it in the winter yet. Note
> also that I've never had an instructor recommend pumping the throttle --
> they've always told me to prime.
>
> Anyone care to comment?
>
> Also, does anyone care to comment why the Mooney I fly (fuel injected)
> does not have a primer? Instead, you turn on the boost pump and advance
> the mixture to full rich for 3-5 seconds in order to prime. I'm not sure why
> the procedure is different or whether we can use it.
>
> Being able to omit the primer system from our installations would be a
> good thing, if we can still start our engines in cold weather.
>
> -Joe
Joe,
When building my RV-8 I agonized over whether to install a primer system or
not. In the end I built in the wiring and switch for a solenoid-activated
system but never put the fuel plumbing in. After flying it for almost a year
using just the accelerator pump for my primer (WHILE cranking of course),
and after reading of just the sort of primer plumbing failures I was afraid
of, I decided to permanently abandon the primer system. The final straw was
starting one day this winter on a 28 degree morning. Using my normal 1-3
pumps while cranking it would want to start but not quite make it. I started
pumping it continually while cranking and it started although not as quickly
as when it's warmer. Since I want to avoid having potential failure points
necessitated by primer plumbing, and since I was able to start it
successfully and reliably in 28 degree weather I will now abandon thinking
about it entirely.
Every builder will make his/her own decision on this, and where you live
certainly comes to bear on it. But if I lived in Minnesota or something I'd
have a preheat system which would be just like starting on a spring day.
Here in the Northwest we seldom have flying days below freezing so I'm ok.
Your mileage may vary,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 151 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Break-in. |
Having just ruined a set of cylinders by improper break-in procedures I can
offer a few comments, see below...
> 1. Should I wait till 10 or 25 hours for my first oil change? I will be
> using Aeroshell 65 Mineral oil for the first 50 hours or until the oil
> consumption stabilizes.
Bart Lalonde recommends changing at both 10 and 20 with the later switching
to AD oil. Mineral oil and a filter are cheap insurance, plus it causes you
to remove your cowl and look things over.
> 2. I will be running the engine hard for a while. How much do I need to
> limit my practice of takeoffs and landings while at the same time
providing
> for proper engine break in?
The first hours are the MOST critical, run it HARD. Frankly, I'd fly at
least 1-2 hour missions at or near 75% power.
> 3. What type of altitude or leaning restrictions should I be using during
> the break in period?
You can't develop 75% power above 8,000 feet so that's your altitude
restriction. Don't lean at all during the first 2-3 hours, then as you
notice your CHTs coming down lean slightly but only to the extent that oil
and CHT temps stay in the green.
Glenn, at 3 hours if you haven't been running it hard enough you could
already have started a problem. My advice is to run the next 7 hours as
noted above and then change the oil. Continue with high power settings until
20-25 hrs. then change oil again to AD.
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E, (3 Hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Drawing 6 shows optional lightening holes in the VS spar doubler
VS-808PP. Is anyone cutting these out? If so, are you just using one
of the fly-type circle cutters or something more stable.
Ken
RV8 (emennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VOODOOWORKSHOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | shit,fuck,cunt somebody take me off this fuckin' list I am sick |
of these e-mails
I tried to sign off this group at yahoo but i still get e-mail. maybe if I
use foul language I can get kicked off !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
Why not control manually?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door
I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
(bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in case
something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will be
based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
anything large.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
airbox
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Air Vent in Wing |
I have decided to put the air vent in the bottom left wing in my RV4 before
mounting the wings. I have looked in the archives for the position (which
bay), but no joy. I know I have seen that somewhere. Also, would that one
vent be sufficent for two outlets, one to front and one to back? Thanks.
Ron Calhoun
RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
Paul,
The new owner will have to have you or an A&P do the Annual Condition
Inspection, but he can do any work. Check the Operating Limitations for the
plane. There should be a paragraph in there describing who can do the
"Yearly Condition Inspection". Make sure he understands all the paragraphs
in the Operating Limitations as a person can be violated for them. I don't
like seeing that happen.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 19:52:00 -0700
>
>
>Since I recently sold my RV, does the new owner have to have me or an
>A&P sign off on any work or condition inspection that he does?
>
>Das Fed?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: I am sick of these e-mails |
Why don't you grow up, scroll down, and log off. This list has nothing to
do with Yahoo at all!
----- Original Message -----
From: <VOODOOWORKSHOP(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: I am sick of these e-mails
I tried to sign off this group at yahoo but i still get e-mail. maybe if I
use foul language I can get kicked off !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Batteries. |
You can build your own. Kitplanes, April 2002.
Finn
Pete Bodie wrote:
>
> Has anybody tried the "BatteryMINDer $39.95 at www.batterymart.com ?
>
> With up to 85% of the 70 million (Battery Council International, January 98,
> 12 months - Nov. 95 - Oct. 96) new 12 volt storage batteries made each year,
> destined to die before they should, a new U. S. patent pending product has
> come to the rescue.
>
> BatteryMINDer Charger/Maintainer/Conditioner is the first of a new
> generation of "Computer-On-A-Chip" technology. It conditions "sulphated"
> batteries as well as automatically charging any type 12 volt storage battery
> without ever over-charging. Dubbed the "charger with a brain", it is
> believed to be the first charger of its kind to reverse the primary cause of
> early battery failure known as "sulphation". "Sulphation" batteries that
> were once considered beyond recovery can now be brought back to long-term
> useful condition.
>
> How BatteryMINDer solves battery problems
> A simple press of the button starts the fully automatic de-sulphation
> process. Unique patent pending PulseMode circuitry (U.S. Patent and
> Trademark Office assigned Patent Pending Serial #60/083,473) creates
> high-frequency pulses that break down the sulphated crystals. The battery is
> then able to reach its full level of charge, without excessive heat
> generation. Any 12-volt Maintenance or Maintenance-free type battery,
> including Gel and Deep cycle, can be left on charge for months at a time
> without fear of damage. Water never needs to be replaced while batteries are
> being maintained with BatteryMINDer as the unit never "boils out" the
> electrolyte. The unit plugs directly into a standard wall outlet (or
> extension cord) eliminating the need to disconnect the battery from its
> normal use location.
>
> The Underwriters Lab (UL) and CSA LISTED BatteryMINDer has both Charge/
> Power On as well as Battery Condition / Polarity indicators. The unit will
> reject a "shorted cell" battery while ensuring a full charge to all others,
> including deep cycle marine, gel and maintenance free automotive. Unit comes
> complete with a simple to use hydrometer type battery tester, quick connect
> terminal assemblies and a five (5) year "no exclusions" warranty.
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Fairings fallin' down |
Hi,
I have an RV-6 with gear leg fairings, intersection fairings, and wheel
pants fabricated per plans. After about 2 hours of flying, I noticed the
right gear leg fairing has worked its way down the gear leg. The left one
has barely moved. To keep this from happening I am considering putting a
single hole through the intersection fairing into a tinnerman or plate nut
on the aluminum gear leg fairing. Has anyone else had this problem, if so
what was your remedy? Do you think my fix will work? Any thoughts as to
whether I should put the extra fastener on the fuse/gear intersection
fairing at the top, or on the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing at
the bottom?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
In all the recent discussion about an aircraft builder doing an annual condition
inspection for the person who bought his airplane, I have yet to see any note of
caution regarding the advisability of doing this.
Placing one's name in the log of another testifying to the air worthiness of an
aircraft is something that should not be taken lightly. There are serious legal
ramifications for this in the event of a future accident. Your job, savings and
home are all potentially at risk. This is not to say you should not do an
annual condition inspection for someone who bought your airplane, but at least
recognize there is risk in doing so.
Bill Marvel
RV8A ready for DAR inspection for A/W cert.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
I stand corrected!
Cy is correct - Here is a Good Site that answers who can do Experimental
Maintenance:
http://www.halcyon.com/wanttaja/maint.html
Don Eaves
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>
> "The new owner may perform any work a Owner or Pilot is allowed to do per
> the FAR's -:" Don Eaves.
>
> Since an experimental is not TCed, anyone can work on anything. The
problem
> with the non-builder, he must get the work approved as airworthy at the
> annual conditional inspection.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>
>
> The new owner may perform any work a Owner or Pilot is allowed to do per
the
> FAR's -
> The new owner may not sign for the condition inspection or maintenance -
He
> does not hold the Repairman Certificate
> You can sign for the condition inspection or maintenance - You will be
> responsible for his work -
> An A&P may also sign for the condition inspection or maintenance -
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Flying 101+ Hours
> Technical Counselor - A&P
>
> Don Eaves
> doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner
>
>
> >
> > Since I recently sold my RV, does the new owner have to have me or an
> > A&P sign off on any work or condition inspection that he does?
> >
> > Das Fed?
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A Sold
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One more intercom question (again?) |
I'll call when you get back
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Passenger step for A models |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Just a comment on the -8A step....I was all worried that it wasn't going
to fit right since had heard from Bill VonDane and others that it would
interfere with the rudder cable. Even called Vans about it and they had
not heard of any problems....anyway when I did my step a month ago, there
was no problems with it....no interference at all with the cable.
There's not much clearance (about 1/8") but it's enough. One comment
though, after fitting the plate that is riveted to the outside of the
fuselage skin, make sure the step is level horizontally before drilling
the holes that hold the UHMW block to the baggage floor rib. I had to
lift up on the step to get it level before drilling the UHMW....had I not
done this, the tube under the baggage floor would have definitely
interfered with the rudder cable. Just wondering for you guys who've had
this problem, did you ever check to see if you got it level?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
P.S.--IMHO the step is like the nosegear.....the added convenience is
worth whatever penalty you pay in looks, drag, weight, time, etc.....if
it bothers you too much, build a taildragger : )
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Passenger step for A models
If you decide to install the step, please note: I had to re-locate the
holes/bushings for both my aft battery cable plus for the rudder cable in
that both (done per plans) interfered with the step (or vice versa).
Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairings fallin' down |
Glenn, that is precisely what I did when I upgraded to the Team Rocket
fairings. Hit this link and scroll down the page to see the clecoes
indicating where the screws and tinnerman washers are located on the
upper gear fairing:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
I put a screw and washer at the top of the gear leg fairing both inside
and out, and no screw at the bottom. After a couple hundred hours, this
approach has worked fine. I leave the screws slightly loose so the gear
leg fairing can move a little as the gear flexes.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
===========================
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I have an RV-6 with gear leg fairings, intersection fairings, and wheel
> pants fabricated per plans. After about 2 hours of flying, I noticed the
> right gear leg fairing has worked its way down the gear leg. The left one
> has barely moved. To keep this from happening I am considering putting a
> single hole through the intersection fairing into a tinnerman or plate nut
> on the aluminum gear leg fairing. Has anyone else had this problem, if so
> what was your remedy? Do you think my fix will work? Any thoughts as to
> whether I should put the extra fastener on the fuse/gear intersection
> fairing at the top, or on the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing at
> the bottom?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Failed primer systems |
Joe:
> > I've tried the "pump the throttle" method a few times since, and it's
> worked
> > as reliably as the primer.
If you choose to do this, make sure you do it while cranking the engine. The
reason is that when you pump the throttle, the accelerator pump portion of the
carb is spraying raw gas into the induction system. If you pump the throttle
prior to cranking you risk starting a fire in this fuel, which by then has had
a
chance to run down into your air box. More than a few airplanes have been
destroyed by such fires.
> > Also, does anyone care to comment why the Mooney I fly (fuel injected)
> > does not have a primer? Instead, you turn on the boost pump and advance
> > the mixture to full rich for 3-5 seconds in order to prime. I'm not sure
> why
> > the procedure is different or whether we can use it.
This is an important matter for everyone flying light airplanes to know. The
primary difference between fuel injection and carburetion is where the fuel is
introduced. In fuel injection, it is introduced via the injector nozzles, which
are just behind the intake valve, one in each cylinder. In carburetion, fuel is
added, not to the cylinders, but at the carburetor. From there the mist of fuel
and air has to travel to the cylinders via the tubes of the induction system.
When you prime a fuel injected engine, you spray raw fuel into the cylinder via
the fuel injection nozzle which is right by the intake valve -- a really good
place to put raw fuel. Likewise, when you use the primer system in a carbureted
engine, you do the same thing, since the primer nozzle is also located right
behind the intake valve. However, when you "prime" a carbureted engine by
pumping the throttle, you merely inject additional raw fuel into the carburetor,
and this extra fuel has to be mixed with the air flow and be carried as a mist
to each of the cylinders. This is not nearly as efficient as introducing the
prime fuel just outside of the intake valve. As I mentioned above, throttle
pumping can also be a real fire hazard if you do it while not cranking the
engine.
Bill Marvel
RV8A QB ready for DAR inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Has anyone modified one of Van's air boxes in order to dump heated air
inside of the air filter instead of outside it? Would appreciate
knowing how you did it.
About a year ago there was a fatal 6A crash in the Sierras here in CA.
Prior to his engine problem the pilot reported flying in snow (this was
in IMC and at night over rough terrain at 13,000 feet -- not good
decision making for an airline captain flying the 6A). I have been
involved with certified airplanes for 25 years and am very familiar with
conventional carb heat system design and rigging. Van's is highly
unusual in that it dumps heated air into the air box upstream of the air
filter. This means the heated air has to first overcome the cold
thermal mass of the air filter in order to reach the carburetor
downstream of it -- not a good design although arguably very simple and
evidently it works OK for most builders. The usual setup is two
separate functions with either one or two doors -- one closing off the
cold air (as Van does) and another ducting hot air into the carb
downstream of the air filter (ie, unfiltered hot air). I intend to
eventually do something like this on my 8A, soon to be in flight test.
Has anyone else toyed with this mod?
Bill Marvel
Trucked 8A to Camarillo yesterday for DAR inspection and flight test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-up Slider kit for 6/6A (& 7/7A 8/9A) sliding canopies |
Listers,
Rich Meske is offering kits for his "tip-up / slider" canopy modification
at an introductory price of $140. I've set up a web page for him at:
http://www.rv.supermatrix.com/misc/tilt-slider.html
Mike Nellis also has some additional photos on his web site. I have
ordered a kit & will report to the list when I receive & install it. I
think it will make a big difference to the ease of loading our folding bikes!
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 330 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Well, I went down tonight and had three choices for things to do in the basement.
The first one involved cleaning the basement. The second involved putting dimples
in the tanks. And the third involved starting the firewall.
Guess which sounded like more fun.
So now I have questions.... Note that I'm building a 6A.
----
I'm looking at drawing 25, Detail E. This is a detail of the location where
the aluminum angle crosses each other. The drawing calls for one piece of
5/8 by 2 by .063 aluminum crossing over one of the angles and into the
other -- kinda like a splice. There's a second one that's bent and is riveted
to the two angles.
The Van's instructions don't mention these parts. They just say the firewall
bulkhead comes pre-cleco'd and to start drilling. And my kit doesn't have
these guys here.
What's the story?
----
Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
the firewall for it.
The drawings don't specifically call out a size, but the other angle in the
neighborhood is .063. I can't find any 063 angle, but I have a ton of
.125. Is it critical? Should I keep looking -- should I have some here
somewhere?
----
Now a couple of questions about the recess. I'm assuming that this
recess needs to be pushed through the firewall from the forward side,
so that the flanges on the recess will be forward of the stainless. Anyone
care to comment?
Next, Frank Justice's plans recommend that you don't actually rivet this
box into place yet, but I didn't see why he said that. Comments on
that, too?
----
Thanks for all the help.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need KX155 Install Manual |
I too am lookng for installation information for the KX-155, specifically the
pinouts, and have an immediate question for anyone who might know if the unit
has a pin for a remote flip-flop function, and if so, which pin?
Thanks and regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-up Slider kit for 6/6A (& 7/7A 9/9A) sliding canopies |
Oops! Sorry for the preceding message with "8" on the subject line.
Tip-up Slider kit for 6/6A (& 7/7A 8/9A) sliding canopies
should have been
Tip-up Slider kit for 6/6A (& 7/7A 9/9A) sliding canopies
Sorry RV-8 guys.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 310 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
Cy wrote: "Why not control manually?"
Cy,
I thought about a manual cable. Here is my reasoning for trying to avoid it:
One less thing to think about in an emergency. Plus in addition to throttle,
prop and mixture controls, I also have control cables for the oil cooler
door, parking brake valve and cabin heat. I'm getting cable overload! I
thought the spring loaded door would be a simpler solution assuming I get
the spring tension correct. Any thoughts on the proper suction needed to
open?
Chris Heitman
----- Original Message -----
I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
(bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in case
something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will be
based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
anything large.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stop Design |
The control stops are designed to set the angle of deflection for the control
surfaces.
This is explained in the builders manual. The rudder stops set the angle and
also prevent the rudder from jamming the elevators. The elevator stops are
set to design specifications. The aileron stop determines the angle of up
deflection. The other ailerons down angle is different due to a differential
built into the system. The rigid, interconnecting push tubes provide the
down stop. By having positive stops at the controls the design angle's of
deflection can be maintained.
A heads up on the rudder stops:- Make sure that your rudder cables don't
hang up when they go slack. I had to redo mine.
Cash Copeland A&P
Oakland, Ca
RV6
a message dated 3/16/2002 10:32:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
>
>
> Here's one for all you aerodynamicist-types and airframe designers:
>
> Why are control surface stops located at the surfaces and not at the
> stick or rudder pedals? Any full deflection (stomping on a pedal or
> hard over in an upset) stresses the entire control linkage out to and
> including the stop attachment. I'm sure there's a reason for this, just
> would like to know what the dynamics are for this... do flutter
> excursions deflect a surface all the way to the stops, perhaps?
>
> PLUS today's trivia question: Why is it called a "hangar"? (no, I
> don't know, that's why I'm asking!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman Certificate for New RV Owner |
See the latest Sport Aviation for an article on this subject.
RHDudley
Bill Marvel wrote:
>
>
> In all the recent discussion about an aircraft builder doing an annual condition
> inspection for the person who bought his airplane, I have yet to see any note
of
> caution regarding the advisability of doing this.
>
> Placing one's name in the log of another testifying to the air worthiness of
an
> aircraft is something that should not be taken lightly. There are serious legal
> ramifications for this in the event of a future accident. Your job, savings
and
> home are all potentially at risk. This is not to say you should not do an
> annual condition inspection for someone who bought your airplane, but at least
> recognize there is risk in doing so.
>
> Bill Marvel
> RV8A ready for DAR inspection for A/W cert.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need KX155 Install Manual |
Don:
Have a 155 in my Grumman Tiger and have the install manual for it. Give me a fax
number if you have one and I can send you the pin diagram.
Remote com flip flop is pin P. Remote nav flip flop is pin 13. These are for
the 14 v units. Different pins for the 28V. Let me know what you have.
Rv8don(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I too am lookng for installation information for the KX-155, specifically the
> pinouts, and have an immediate question for anyone who might know if the unit
> has a pin for a remote flip-flop function, and if so, which pin?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
>
>
Bill Marvel
________________________________________________________________________________
I thought about modifying the airbox the get hot air directly into the carb.
I found that the bottom of the airbox was to close to the bottom of the cowl
to make an effective transition. One day I might look into fabricating an
airbox that puts the hot air directly into the carb. Until then I will rely
my carb temp monitor.
Cash Copeland A&P
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/17/2002 6:34:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
>
> Has anyone modified one of Van's air boxes in order to dump heated air
> inside of the air filter instead of outside it? Would appreciate
> knowing how you did it.
>
> About a year ago there was a fatal 6A crash in the Sierras here in CA.
> Prior to his engine problem the pilot reported flying in snow (this was
> in IMC and at night over rough terrain at 13,000 feet -- not good
> decision making for an airline captain flying the 6A). I have been
> involved with certified airplanes for 25 years and am very familiar with
> conventional carb heat system design and rigging. Van's is highly
> unusual in that it dumps heated air into the air box upstream of the air
> filter. This means the heated air has to first overcome the cold
> thermal mass of the air filter in order to reach the carburetor
> downstream of it -- not a good design although arguably very simple and
> evidently it works OK for most builders. The usual setup is two
> separate functions with either one or two doors -- one closing off the
> cold air (as Van does) and another ducting hot air into the carb
> downstream of the air filter (ie, unfiltered hot air). I intend to
> eventually do something like this on my 8A, soon to be in flight test.
> Has anyone else toyed with this mod?
>
> Bill Marvel
> Trucked 8A to Camarillo yesterday for DAR inspection and flight test
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
joe
below are answers to your questions:
> The Van's instructions don't mention these parts. They just say the firewall
> bulkhead comes pre-cleco'd and to start drilling. And my kit doesn't have
> these guys here.
>
> What's the story?
>
yes you have to fabricate 4 of these for the both sides.
"Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
the firewall for it."
this will be your break line holding point. in other words, you will need to
secure your lines from the peddles to this block. the they run from there on
to the rest of the sysytem.
"The drawings don't specifically call out a size, but the other angle in the
neighborhood is .063. I can't find any 063 angle, but I have a ton of
.125. Is it critical? Should I keep looking -- should I have some here
somewhere?"
you should have plenty of this stuff if your just starting the firewall/fuse.
i think i had like 4 - 10' pieces.
"Now a couple of questions about the recess. I'm assuming that this
recess needs to be pushed through the firewall from the forward side,
so that the flanges on the recess will be forward of the stainless. Anyone
care to comment?"
yes, thats is the way i did mine, with the flush head of the rivit in the
engine compartment. don't forget to put a little red rtv to keep carbon
monoxide / dioxide. from entering from the engine compartment.
"Next, Frank Justice's plans recommend that you don't actually rivet this
box into place yet, but I didn't see why he said that. Comments on
that, too?"
i dimpled and backrivited on a smooth surface. it would have been more
difficult. to do it on the plane. i'm almost finished with the plane and have
never needed to remove the recess box. so i would rivit it on while you can
do a good job of it.
hope that helps
scott
tampa
painting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
Can't comment on the first on the first part of your question because I have
Quick Build. When it was time to install the firewall recess the plans said
it went on the rear of the firewall. There was no way that would work. I
cut the hole with a cut off wheel. I then riveted the recess box to the
front side of the firewall. I used a bead of HiTemp RTV to seal any voids.
It was kind of ugly looking at it with no motor mount or engine. With the
engine and all the other stuff installed on the firewall you can't see the
recess box. You might want to hold off riveting the box on until you install
the rudder pedal support and drill the holes for the engine cables. As a
matter of fact I wouldn't rivet it on until I was getting ready to hang the
engine. I think if I was building a firewall I would still put the recess
box on the forward side.
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/17/2002 6:45:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jpl(at)showpage.org writes:
> Now a couple of questions about the recess. I'm assuming that this
> recess needs to be pushed through the firewall from the forward side,
> so that the flanges on the recess will be forward of the stainless. Anyone
> care to comment?
>
> Next, Frank Justice's plans recommend that you don't actually rivet this
> box into place yet, but I didn't see why he said that. Comments on
> that, too?
>
> ----
> Thanks for all the help.
>
> -Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stop Design |
cash
try running a spring from the outer set of rudder sturrips to the firewall. i
used 2 carburater springs from the auto parts store. it connects at the same
point as the rudder cables connect, and the other end is simply ran to a
drilled hole in the firewall angle.
when you let off the peddles the 2 return springs pull the bottoms of the
peddles toward the firewall taking all the slack out of the cables. works
like a champ.
scott
tampa
0360 c/s tipper rv6a
fuse painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
Hi Scott, I was wondering how you riveted the rudder pedal support to the
vertical firewall angle with the recess box in place?
In a message dated 3/17/2002 7:50:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
> i dimpled and backrivited on a smooth surface. it would have been more
> difficult. to do it on the plane. i'm almost finished with the plane and
> have
> never needed to remove the recess box. so i would rivit it on while you can
>
> do a good job of it.
>
> hope that helps
>
> scott
> tampa
> painting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
> Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
> one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
> left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
> the firewall for it.
>
Joe, this piece is to mount the bulkhead fittings for the brake lines which
come from the bottom of the master cylinders. Generally I didn't like the
design. I found that it had to be bent downward to even be able to get the
bulkhead fitting in. Also, I routed the hose from the right pilot's brake
cylinder up to the top of the firewall, and then into aluminum tubing for
routing down to the right side and eventually to the right gear leg.
Otherwise, it is difficult to get from the above mentioned angle below the X
on the pilot's side over to the right side of the plane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 102 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stop Design |
I mentioned the rudder control stops because this is a problem that can be
simply eliminated. By moving the rudder stops up a little the cables can't
hang up under them. I had thought about using springs, but my support blocks
are still tight and the cables don't foul on the stops so I haven't worried
about it.
Cash Copeland A&P
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/17/2002 7:59:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
>
> cash
> try running a spring from the outer set of rudder sturrips to the firewall.
> i
> used 2 carburater springs from the auto parts store. it connects at the
> same
> point as the rudder cables connect, and the other end is simply ran to a
> drilled hole in the firewall angle.
> when you let off the peddles the 2 return springs pull the bottoms of the
> peddles toward the firewall taking all the slack out of the cables. works
> like a champ.
>
> scott
> tampa
> 0360 c/s tipper rv6a
> fuse painting
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
it really wasn't a problem, in fact i placed 2 rudder support brackets . 1 on
each side of the box. it made a great break line support, and i made a
battery tray out of the top of the recess box and the 2 rudder suports. i
guess you need to see a pix as it is hard to describe. i'll see if i can find
a pix for you.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith and Jean Williams" <kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Need KX155 Install Manual |
Don,
This goes back a few years, but I think the attached scan has a note 2 that
covers it. Hope this helps!
Keith Williams
RV6, Illinois
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv8don(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need KX155 Install Manual
I too am lookng for installation information for the KX-155, specifically
the
pinouts, and have an immediate question for anyone who might know if the
unit
has a pin for a remote flip-flop function, and if so, which pin?
Thanks and regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
Chris, I have to agree with Cy,
Manual control lets YOU choose when to suck unfiltered air through your
expensive airplane engine. If the "springs" should weaken or even break, how
do you know how many times you run unfiltered air through?
Even then, the engine would just produce slightly less power than normal,
even through a somewhat plugged >Airfilter<
And about your cable situation: Throttle, Prop, Mix shall be used at any
given time as appropriate!
The Parking brake comes in only on the Before-& After Flight checklist,
right?
Cabin heat only when you get kinda cold, after adjusting to comfort should
not change to often?
Oil Cooler door? Lycosaur's have some heat range built in, don't have to be
within 1, or even 10 degree F. Don't try to micro-manage!
So set it up for a joyous flight, adjust whatever is needed once in a while,
and then decide when you want filtered air or not thru your Lycoming!
But then, that's just how I would do it.
Konrad
Please, Do not necessarily archive!
> Cy wrote: "Why not control manually?"
>
> Cy,
> I thought about a manual cable. Here is my reasoning for trying to avoid
it:
> One less thing to think about in an emergency. Plus in addition to
throttle,
> prop and mixture controls, I also have control cables for the oil cooler
> door, parking brake valve and cabin heat. I'm getting cable overload! I
> thought the spring loaded door would be a simpler solution assuming I get
> the spring tension correct. Any thoughts on the proper suction needed to
> open?
> Chris Heitman
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
> (bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
> stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
> these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
> Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in case
> something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
> prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will be
> based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
> anything large.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Failed primer systems |
Joe,
I'm extremely happy with my electric primer system and use it every time I fly.
I haven't got around to making the upgrade to electronic ignition or fuel injection
yet so I'm still flying the stock O-360. Without failure, if I don't
prime my bird it takes about ten or more turns to get it to turn over. My standard
routine is four seconds of prime and it starts on the third turn of the
blade. Hot weather, cold weather, it's all the same. I did my plumbing in one
evening, no big deal. Lots of adel clamps and a one inch loop for strain relief
on each side just before it returns to the solenoid.
I used 1/8 inch copper by the way.
I have a few pics of it on my web site.
rv8a.tripod.com
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
2,000,000,000 Web Pages--you only need 1. Save time with My Lycos.
http://my.lycos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
That's what I love about this list, there are so many ways to achieve a goal.
I used the recess box to mount the B&C voltage regulator and the avionics
fuse block. I found that the plastic brake lines where stiff enough to
support themselves if tied together.
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/17/2002 8:24:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> it really wasn't a problem, in fact i placed 2 rudder support brackets . 1
> on
> each side of the box. it made a great break line support, and i made a
> battery tray out of the top of the recess box and the 2 rudder suports. i
> guess you need to see a pix as it is hard to describe. i'll see if i can
> find
> a pix for you.
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
Hi Joe,
Question #:
1- If my memory serves, me the "Detail E" pieces you describe are in one of
the many bags. Maybe someone out there can come up with the correct bag
number.
2- In one of the bundles of pre-cut angle pieces you should find a part
numbered F-6122. This is a piece of sheet stock that has been bent to form a
custom made angle that is 1" X 3/4" X 6" It will be noticeable because it
has been cut at 45 degrees at each end so as to drop into place on the
firewall in the desired position.
3- I chose to fit the Oil filter / Governor recess between the firewall and
the angles. I felt that it looked cleaner and would be less likely to annoy
me when ever the firewall would need cleaning.
4- The down side of doing the above recess box install is that I was forced
to forgo any benefit of having the hole in the fire wall left open to reach
through during later installations of various sub assemblies. That is the
basic reason for leaving this part un-installed till later in construction.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Firewall
>
> Well, I went down tonight and had three choices for things to do in the
basement.
> The first one involved cleaning the basement. The second involved putting
dimples
> in the tanks. And the third involved starting the firewall.
>
> Guess which sounded like more fun.
>
> So now I have questions.... Note that I'm building a 6A.
>
> ----
> I'm looking at drawing 25, Detail E. This is a detail of the location
where
> the aluminum angle crosses each other. The drawing calls for one piece of
> 5/8 by 2 by .063 aluminum crossing over one of the angles and into the
> other -- kinda like a splice. There's a second one that's bent and is
riveted
> to the two angles.
>
> The Van's instructions don't mention these parts. They just say the
firewall
> bulkhead comes pre-cleco'd and to start drilling. And my kit doesn't have
> these guys here.
>
> What's the story?
>
> ----
>
> Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
> one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
> left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
> the firewall for it.
>
> The drawings don't specifically call out a size, but the other angle in
the
> neighborhood is .063. I can't find any 063 angle, but I have a ton of
> .125. Is it critical? Should I keep looking -- should I have some here
> somewhere?
>
> ----
> Now a couple of questions about the recess. I'm assuming that this
> recess needs to be pushed through the firewall from the forward side,
> so that the flanges on the recess will be forward of the stainless.
Anyone
> care to comment?
>
> Next, Frank Justice's plans recommend that you don't actually rivet this
> box into place yet, but I didn't see why he said that. Comments on
> that, too?
>
> ----
> Thanks for all the help.
>
> -Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
Speaking of alternate air doors. I also fly a Bonanza which has a spring
loaded alternate air door. This door also has a manual pull cable. The one
time I had impact ice (I believe) obstruct the air filter, I don't think it
worked. Got into some unforcast weather, here in California. The engine
started losing power, pulled on the alternate air the engine came back to
life. I don't think I would rely on a spring loaded door.
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/17/2002 8:29:40 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Connywerner(at)wans.net writes:
>
> Chris, I have to agree with Cy,
>
> Manual control lets YOU choose when to suck unfiltered air through your
> expensive airplane engine. If the "springs" should weaken or even break,
> how
> do you know how many times you run unfiltered air through?
> Even then, the engine would just produce slightly less power than normal,
> even through a somewhat plugged >Airfilter<
> And about your cable situation: Throttle, Prop, Mix shall be used at any
> given time as appropriate!
> The Parking brake comes in only on the Before-& After Flight checklist,
> right?
> Cabin heat only when you get kinda cold, after adjusting to comfort should
> not change to often?
> Oil Cooler door? Lycosaur's have some heat range built in, don't have to
> be
> within 1, or even 10 degree F. Don't try to micro-manage!
>
> So set it up for a joyous flight, adjust whatever is needed once in a
> while,
> and then decide when you want filtered air or not thru your Lycoming!
>
> But then, that's just how I would do it.
> Konrad
> Please, Do not necessarily archive!
>
>
> > Cy wrote: "Why not control manually?"
> >
> > Cy,
> > I thought about a manual cable. Here is my reasoning for trying to avoid
> it:
> > One less thing to think about in an emergency. Plus in addition to
> throttle,
> > prop and mixture controls, I also have control cables for the oil cooler
> > door, parking brake valve and cabin heat. I'm getting cable overload! I
> > thought the spring loaded door would be a simpler solution assuming I get
> > the spring tension correct. Any thoughts on the proper suction needed to
> > open?
> > Chris Heitman
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
> > (bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
> > stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
> > these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
> > Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in
> case
> > something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
> > prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will
> be
> > based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
> > anything large.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
Hi Joe:
I'll see if I can help here>
The slices you are referring to are the only things you need to fabricate
for the firewall. As I recall, they came as separate pieces of aluminum.
There was just enough material for me to make mine. Just make them like the
plans show. Should be in a plastic bag(?)
Keep looking for that 7" angle. Note that it actually has a part
number.....F6122...and that it is 1 x 3/4 x .063. Most of the .125 stock
you will have will be 3/4 x 3/4. The extra width is needed for support of
the brakelines. This piece is probably in a plastic bag of parts also.
It is my understanding that the flange of the recess box goes on the
forward side of the firewall. I need to return my box, as it is just a
smudge too wide. Called Van's and Gus measured a few off the shelf and they
were the right size. I'm just lucky I guess.......You don't rivet it on so
you can get at the center bearing block for the rudder peddles when the time
comes.
Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Firewall
>
> Well, I went down tonight and had three choices for things to do in the
basement.
> The first one involved cleaning the basement. The second involved putting
dimples
> in the tanks. And the third involved starting the firewall.
>
> Guess which sounded like more fun.
>
> So now I have questions.... Note that I'm building a 6A.
>
> ----
> I'm looking at drawing 25, Detail E. This is a detail of the location
where
> the aluminum angle crosses each other. The drawing calls for one piece of
> 5/8 by 2 by .063 aluminum crossing over one of the angles and into the
> other -- kinda like a splice. There's a second one that's bent and is
riveted
> to the two angles.
>
> The Van's instructions don't mention these parts. They just say the
firewall
> bulkhead comes pre-cleco'd and to start drilling. And my kit doesn't have
> these guys here.
>
> What's the story?
>
> ----
>
> Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
> one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
> left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
> the firewall for it.
>
> The drawings don't specifically call out a size, but the other angle in
the
> neighborhood is .063. I can't find any 063 angle, but I have a ton of
> .125. Is it critical? Should I keep looking -- should I have some here
> somewhere?
>
> ----
> Now a couple of questions about the recess. I'm assuming that this
> recess needs to be pushed through the firewall from the forward side,
> so that the flanges on the recess will be forward of the stainless.
Anyone
> care to comment?
>
> Next, Frank Justice's plans recommend that you don't actually rivet this
> box into place yet, but I didn't see why he said that. Comments on
> that, too?
>
> ----
> Thanks for all the help.
>
> -Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Need KX155 Install Manual |
Don, Mike and all,
KX155 pinout:
Pin:
14 +14
R +14
15 gnd
S gnd
2 mic audio
6 mic key
9 com audio hi
K com audio low
10 nav audio hi
L nav audio low
13 nav flip flop
P com flop flop
12 switched +14 to KI208
8 ILS energize to KI208
H VOR composite signal to KI 208
I don't remember if the flip flop pins are switched to + or ground and the book
is at the airport - I'll check Tues. or Wed. and let you know.
Dave -6 So Cal
Rv8don(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I too am lookng for installation information for the KX-155, specifically the
> pinouts, and have an immediate question for anyone who might know if the unit
> has a pin for a remote flip-flop function, and if so, which pin?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Support |
--------------------- a suggestion.
During the recent 6A firewall discussion someone mentioned the rudder pedal
support bracket.
Just thought that I would mention that I made a second (dummey) rudder
support bracket on the other side of the firewall cutout and made a
equipment platform across the top of the two supports.
Good for mounting equipment provided thought is given to future removal for
servicing.
In my case I mounted the controller for the electronic ignition on the
shelf.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6A - final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Electrical Load Analsys |
Need some help from you electrical wizzards.
Just completed a Electrical Load Analsys for my 6A equipped with Vans 35 amp
Alternator, Vans adjustable Voltage Regulator and Vans Engine Instruments.
Think I am OK, but just a couple of amps under the maximum recommended (80%)
continuous load on the alternator during IFR night operations. However I
would like to refine my analsys to get accuracy as close as possible.
The actual current draw is not included in the paperwork that Van's provides
with his equipment and I have estimated the current draw of Vans instruments
& senders at .18 amps for each complete unit.
My questions:
1) Does anyone have, or could they measure on the bench, the actual
electrical current draw for Vans fuel gauge, tachometer, oil pressure, oil
temperature, fuel pressure and voltmeter.
2) Is the alternator rating (35 amp) the gross or net output rating, in
other words is the alternator field load subtracted from the output. What
would the alternator field load be?
3) How much current would the voltage regulator itself use (Vans adjustable
ES-M5-150A).
Thanks,
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6-A, final assembly & paperwork
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Break-in procedures |
Glenn:
Go to Mattituck Aviation's web site (www.mattituck.com) and look at their
"Tech Advice" section. They have an article on break-in procedure.
Ed Winne
RV9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Joe,
I wouldl like to make a suggestion to you...
Buy the Orndorf videos and a bag of chips. Sit down and watch them build
their firewall, eat your chips. All of these questions are answered in the
videos.
Not trying to be a butt, as your questions are welcome here, but you will
have 1000's of questions with time, and these videos have helped build
1000's of RVs. Very educational stuff because you get to watch it done and
learn why some things are being done in certain order, etc. Things that are
not covered in the plans.
This advice goes to anybody who is a newbee...these videos will make your
project go smoother and be more enjoyable.
jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Firewall
> Next, this one is pretty minor. For the -6A, we're supposed to fabricate
> one more piece of angle aluminum, about 7 inches long. It goes on the
> left side just under the crossed aluminum. There are prepunched holes in
> the firewall for it.
>
Joe, this piece is to mount the bulkhead fittings for the brake lines which
come from the bottom of the master cylinders. Generally I didn't like the
design. I found that it had to be bent downward to even be able to get the
bulkhead fitting in. Also, I routed the hose from the right pilot's brake
cylinder up to the top of the firewall, and then into aluminum tubing for
routing down to the right side and eventually to the right gear leg.
Otherwise, it is difficult to get from the above mentioned angle below the X
on the pilot's side over to the right side of the plane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 102 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)attbi.com> |
Ken,
I didn't bother.
Bob
RV8 #423
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kendall R.
Simmons
Subject: RV-List: VS-808PP
Drawing 6 shows optional lightening holes in the VS spar doubler
VS-808PP. Is anyone cutting these out? If so, are you just using one
of the fly-type circle cutters or something more stable.
Ken
RV8 (emennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
>Drawing 6 shows optional lightening holes in the VS spar doubler
>VS-808PP. Is anyone cutting these out? If so, are you just using one
>of the fly-type circle cutters or something more stable.
>
>Ken
>RV8 (emennage)
Ken, I didn't bother with that either. It's good to know that area is so
overbuilt, though.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 Emp.
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/project.html
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stop Design |
My personal theory on this is that if any slack would develop in the control
linkages particularly cables you would still be able to get full control
deflections if the control stops are at the surfaces. Even at that I have
seen many controls on certified airplanes where the cables were loose enough
that the stick would bang on the instrument panel and the elevator would not
reach its stop.
Just a theory though
Michel 81117
a message dated 3/16/2002 10:32:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
>
>
> Here's one for all you aerodynamicist-types and airframe designers:
>
> Why are control surface stops located at the surfaces and not at the
> stick or rudder pedals? Any full deflection (stomping on a pedal or
> hard over in an upset) stresses the entire control linkage out to and
> including the stop attachment. I'm sure there's a reason for this, just
> would like to know what the dynamics are for this... do flutter
> excursions deflect a surface all the way to the stops, perhaps?
>
> PLUS today's trivia question: Why is it called a "hangar"? (no, I
> don't know, that's why I'm asking!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air door |
How would you easily check its operation? Instead of one less thing to
worry about, you now have no way of doing a check for functionality. Most
planes have a carb heat cable. You don't need it for Fuel injection. Why not
use for your alternate air door. Further, the door could be partially open
all the time or might only open in the worse case which might be too late.
I believe Mooney uses a spring loaded door but when it wears, there are
problems.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: cracking pressure for a spring loaded alternate air
door
Cy wrote: "Why not control manually?"
Cy,
I thought about a manual cable. Here is my reasoning for trying to avoid it:
One less thing to think about in an emergency. Plus in addition to throttle,
prop and mixture controls, I also have control cables for the oil cooler
door, parking brake valve and cabin heat. I'm getting cable overload! I
thought the spring loaded door would be a simpler solution assuming I get
the spring tension correct. Any thoughts on the proper suction needed to
open?
Chris Heitman
----- Original Message -----
I'm doing a back-of-an-envelope calculation for an alternate air door
(bypasses the filter) for my RSA injected IO320D1A using some small
stainless steel torsion springs that I have laying around. Using two of
these springs, I come up with a cracking pressure of about 0.8 inches Hg.
Does anyone know if this is a reasonable loss of manifold pressure in case
something would block the normal filtered intake? I don't want it to open
prematurely to avoid sucking unfiltered air especially since my RV will be
based on a turf strip. (The alternate air will have a screen to keep out
anything large.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Vent in Wing |
>
>I have decided to put the air vent in the bottom left wing in my RV4 before
>mounting the wings. I have looked in the archives for the position (which
>bay), but no joy. I know I have seen that somewhere. Also, would that one
>vent be sufficent for two outlets, one to front and one to back? Thanks.
>
>Ron Calhoun
>RV4
>
Well, the RV-8 design uses a NACA scoop in the bottom of the wing for
the rear seat ventilation air. It uses the NACA scoop that Van
sells, and the forward edge of the opening is about 8.75 inches aft
of the main spar web. Van puts it on the bottom of the right wing,
but I would have thought the left wing would be a better bet due to
the prop wash. Van puts the vent a few inches outboard of the wing
walk.
My -8 isn't flying yet, so I won't comment on whether one NACA scoop
would provide enough air for both seats.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Foam table and new tail. |
The following are pictures of the foam I put around the C-Frame and of my
new tail. The foam is 4" thick, so I allows you to move your material
around without fear of scratching it on the male dimple die. You only have
to push down 1/4" to get to the dimple. Works great.
The new tail was completed yesterday after about 10 hours of very easy work.
Only had to drill out one rivet.
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/graphic/p8.jpg
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/graphic/p9.jpg
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need KX155 Install Manual |
Don,
The Nav and Comm remote transfer pins are as follows:
For a 13.75 VDC system: (If you have a 27.5 VDC system please let me know.
The pins are different.)
*Nav Remote Transfer (optional) - Pin 13
*Comm Remote Transfer (optional) - Pin P
and refers you to Note 2 which reads:
Remote transfer allows transfer of "use" and "stby" frequencies by neans of
an external switch. 13.75 volst versions utilize 27.5 volt power pins for
remote trnasfer inputs and 27.5 volt versions utilize the 13.75 volt power
pins. If remote transfer is not desired, the inputs will not require any
connection. If remote transfer is desired, the appropriate transfer input
should be momentarily switched from A/C ground to A/C power.
I can't draw the bottom part of the note but on the drawing it appears to be
hooked up as follows:
The drawing says to use a SPDT momentary switch, normally closed contact is
power ground, normally open contact is A/C power. Normally closed, Pins 13
and P go to A/C ground. When the switch is momentarially activated, Pins 13
and P go from ground to A/C power.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Wes Hays
N844WB
Winters, TX
230+ hours.
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv8don(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need KX155 Install Manual
>
> I too am lookng for installation information for the KX-155, specifically
the
> pinouts, and have an immediate question for anyone who might know if the
unit
> has a pin for a remote flip-flop function, and if so, which pin?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
Joe:
> I wouldl like to make a suggestion to you...
> Buy the Orndorf videos and a bag of chips. Sit down and watch them build
> their firewall, eat your chips. All of these questions are answered in the
> videos.
Ditto this as well as the great success I had with Vans directly by email. In
building my 8A QB over the past 15 months I found many plans errors, omissions,
etc., as well as the standard "what does this mean?" questions and communicated
all this to Gus Funnell at Vans by email. I could send Gus a message at the end
of a work day and have an answer at the same time the following day. On
occasion I called him on the phone for additional information. He is a 6 (or
6A) owner, knows the answers to practically everything you ask, and has short,
simple email responses. Don't discount the factory for support! They're very
good.
Bill Marvel
Soon to see the DAR for signoff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
98-99% completed, 0320, 160hp, new C/S prop, painted. ect. please
contact me for pix, priced at $61,500.00. or call..I love to talk about
RV's! 503-678-3343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
To all QB guys:
I encountered two problems with QB quality control in building my 8A
and told Vans about both. FYI here they are:
1. The wing is shipped with only some of the AN bolts installed that
attach the tanks to the spar and you are cautioned to be sure to put in
the rest of them. However, what I discovered was that the bolts they
had installed were AN3s all right, but the wrong length -- all of them.
Van took the incorrect ones back and sent me new ones. Read the plans
and don't assume...
2. Most recently, in ground running the engine from both wing tanks and
leak checking the entire fuel system, I discovered a fuel leak in the
supposedly-pressure-checked tanks that the QB guys had built. Actually
this leak was in the right tank only. You need to look into this
because it is very subtle and may well be in your tanks too.
I'll dispense with part numbers but here is a working description. Take
a good hard look at your airplane to make sure this did not happen to
you. In the inboard fuel tank rib there is an access plate through
which your fuel sender is installed. This access plate is attached to
the inboard rib via a number of machine screws that go into nut plates.
These nut plates are riveted through both the inboard rib and a backup
ring behind that rib (the backup ring and the nut plates are inside of
the tank).
Here is the problem. In the rib there is a tooling hole that is covered
by the backup plate. It is just forward of the spar and is easily
seen. The outboard edge of the tooling hole in my plane extended
slightly beyond the outer edge of the doubler ring that was supposed to
cover that tooling hole. The positioning is such that this direct
opening from the tank to the wing root area was outboard of the gasket
that is used between the rib and the access plate. It is this gasket
that is supposed to prevent fuel leaking through this tooling hole. In
my case it did not and the result was a very small but definite fuel
leak. Pulling off the wing and the access plate (wing was on
temporarily with hardware store bolts) allowed me to put a flashlight
into the tank and thus see the tiny spot of light shining through the
leakage path. I am sure they pressure checked this but it is a small
leak and may not have been noted. But leak it did. WARNING -- if you
use tank sealant for access plates, plate screws, gasket attachment,
etc. make sure it is the proper one for this application or the plate
will be welded to the rib). You want the low adhesion stuff for fuel
tank access plates.
A review of the text of the plans clearly indicated that no sealant was
needed between the doubler ring and the inner rib because the gasket
between the access plate and the rib would cover this area. Great plan
but it won't work if the tooling hole is outside of the footprint area
of the gasket as mine was! The fix was easy -- with the access plate
off, spread a ring of sealant around the outside diameter of the doubler
ring inside the tank. This worked fine. Do yourselves a favor and get
into that tank at night with a flashlight to make sure you don't see
light from inside the tank through a tiny portion of that tooling hole.
If you do, order up some tank sealant.
Bill Marvel
RV8A getting ready for DAR inspection
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A rail bolts: |
Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
for sale, lyc E2D, with all accessories..high timer, but good
compression, hear it run..removing it for a upgrade..$8,500.00 plus
shipping....loctaed aurora, ore.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A rail bolts: |
In a message dated 3/18/02 10:52:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
<< Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
Sincerely:
Doyal >>
If I was going to do it again, I'd install platenuts on the rail before I
riveted the rails to the fuselage.
That said, I faced the same problem a year or two ago, and spent an entire
evening sweating and cursing before I got all of the nuts in place. What
finally worked was pushing a piece of coat hangar wire down through each
hole, and running a nut up the coat hangar to properly align it with the
hole. Then, once it was reasonably aligned, I would hold it in place with my
finger (small fingers help), remove the coat hangar, and try to thread the
screw.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Firewall |
permatex 26B red high temp RTV silicone found at any auto parts store.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6A rail bolts: |
Hi Doyal,
My solution was to put nutplates on an aluminum stip to match the holes
drilled through the rail and deck. The aluminum strip is much more
handlable than single nuts. So far, I have only two screws and nutplates
to hold the rails in place. I expect that the remainder will be as easy
as the first two. I will leave the strip in place when I drill the
remaining holes. Then remove the strip and add the remaining nutplates.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing (N331RD reserved)
Orlando
doyal plute wrote:
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
>
> Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
> of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A rail bolts: |
Doyal:
> << Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
> of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal >>
> What
> finally worked was pushing a piece of coat hangar wire down through each
> hole, and running a nut up the coat hangar to properly align it with the
> hole. Then, once it was reasonably aligned, I would hold it in place with my
> finger (small fingers help), remove the coat hangar, and try to thread the
> screw.
Hint for many uses: get a can of fuel lube, available from most aviation
suppliers. Aside from its obvious use of lubing threads, valves, etc. in fuel
systems, it has another incredibly valuable property. The stuff is really sticky
and allows you to attach washers, nuts, rivets, etc to your finger or to a piece
of sheet metal used as an extension for holding the part in difficult areas to
reach. I bought one can of this stuff about 20 years ago and still have half of
it left. I use it all the time as a temporary holding method for small parts.
Bill Marvel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Air Vent in Wing |
>I have decided to put the air vent in the bottom left wing in my RV4
before
>mounting the wings. I have looked in the archives for the position....
Hey, Ron: I have the NACA vent in the bottom of the right wing for fresh
air ventilation for the back seat of my dash 4. I can get exact
measurements this afternoon on its location as I am in the middle of my
conditional inspection.
>Would that one vent be sufficient for two outlets, one to front and one
to back?
My vote: no, probably not. I guess it depends on how much air you want
blowing on you and/or your passenger. I like LOTS of air for both. That
canopy gets mighty big in the summer sun. The outlet from the NACA vent
is 2 inches which m a y be enough for two one inch vents, one in front,
one in back. I have a 2 inch eyeball vent in the back that will blow
your wig plumb off and two one inch eyeballs for the front. Front seat
air is taken from the rear baffling. Incoming air temperature is
slightly above ambient air temperature (never measured exactly how much)
but not much. I have them open winter and summer, unless it is REALLY
cold out. I can also crank the rear one around to blow on my back in the
summer.
I would send photos, but my digital camera is acting up. If I can get it
to work, I'll send you some.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pitot line sealant |
hi guys and gals
i went through the process of certifying my pitot static system and
calibrating my encoder and transponder. we found many small vaccuum leaks in
the plastic fittings. i fixed most by remaking the connections, but i can't
seem to seal the plastic fitting to the instruments. is there some sort of
sealant i'm supposed to use on the threads of the clear plastic fittings?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A rail bolts: |
I match drilled a long strip and mounted all the nutplates. Works great and
you can do it any time. Got the idea from this list years ago. I also
mounted 3/16 & 1/4 nutplates to the longeron spacers/clamps used to mount
the windshield bow. That save a lot of one finger fumbling as well.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...Rebuilding!
searching for Navion to fly
>
> In a message dated 3/18/02 10:52:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
>
> << Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on
> the underside
> of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal >>
>
>> If I was going to do it again, I'd install platenuts on the
>> rail before I
>> riveted the rails to the fuselage.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot line sealant |
Scott:
One of the best things you can use to seal the pipe threads of nylon pitot and
static fittings into the back of instruments is ordinary plumbers white pipe
dope available in a small tube at Home Depot or anyplace else. One of the guys
who does pitot static testing here in So. Cal. as a full time business told me
about it some time back and it works perfectly.
Bill Marvel
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> hi guys and gals
> i went through the process of certifying my pitot static system and
> calibrating my encoder and transponder. we found many small vaccuum leaks in
> the plastic fittings. i fixed most by remaking the connections, but i can't
> seem to seal the plastic fitting to the instruments. is there some sort of
> sealant i'm supposed to use on the threads of the clear plastic fittings?
> scott
> tampa
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A rail bolts: |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
What worked easily for me:
Take a 1" piece of masking tape, loop it around with the sticky side out,
with a slight overlap (cheap man's way to make double sided tape).
Place tape on tip of index finger, place nut on tape. Place finger/nut
under slider rail, get nut started (no cursing required). Repeat for all
locations, final tighten using wrench and screwdriver all locations.
Took me less than 10 minutes to all of them this way (the second time that
is, the first was 1 1/2 hours of colorful verbiage). This method also
works well on the rollover bar nuts.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> In a message dated 3/18/02 10:52:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
>
> << Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the
> underside
> of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Kittyhawk 2003, Tie Down Reservations!!!!!!!!!! |
For those of you who will be attending the First Flight
Centennial at Kittyhawk in Dec. 2003, here is some heads
up info.
Dare County Regional will be making a reservation list
public at Sun and Fun this April.
Parking is limited to about 1200 aircraft. This will be
a BIG event lasting all week.
http://www.fly2mqi.com/calendar.htm
Attached is a copy of the reservation request form. IT
MUST BE MAILED IN as they need your actual signature for
processing your credit card.
I have been in touch with the airport operations
director since late 2000. He told me that I could pass
this reservation form onto a few friends, so here you
have it. I hope to see a lot of RV's there.
Don't forget to find yourselves some hotel rooms.
Here is the form....
** Note: RV's are Category I
Complete and return to:
Dare County Regional Airport
P O Box 429
Manteo, NC 27954
www.fly2mqi.com
e-mail: 2003(at)fly2mqi.com
December 2003 Requested Dates: 10 * 11 * 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19 *
Please provide any additions Aircraft Parking
dates:
Please Accept my application for parking reservations at
Dare County Regional Airport (MQI) for the period
checked above.
Pilot Information
Name
Address
City
State
Zip Code
Home Phone ( )
Work Phone ( )
Fax ( )
E-mail
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Aircraft Information
Aircraft
Make:
Aircraft
Model:
Tail #:
Color/s:
For credit card billing, complete form below:
American Express AirBP
Name on
Card:
Signature:
Card
Number:
Type: Expiration
Date: /
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Type & Location
12th 13th 14th 15th 16th 17th
18th Week Rate
Category I - Grass Parking
$20 $20 $20 $40 $40
$40 $30 $170
Category II - Grass Parking
$30 $30 $30 $50 $50
$50 $40 $240
NOTE: No tie downs are provided - bring you own tie down
equipment.
Category III - Apron
$120 $120 $120 $150 $150 $150
$140 $850
Category III - Rwy 17
$80 $80 $80 $120 $120 $120
$100 $600
Category III - Rwy 35
$60 $60 $60 $80 $80
$80 $80 $450
Category IV - Apron
$130 $130 $130 $160 $160 $160
$150 $900
Category IV - Rwy 17
$90 $90 $90 $130 $130
$130 $90 $650
Category IV - Rwy 35
$70 $70 $70 $100 $100 $100
$70 $530
* NOTE: Daily Rate prior to and after the above dates
will be $5.00 per day. No aircraft will be allowed to
park on runway 17-35 prior to December 12 or after
December 19, 2003.
You will be notified of receipt and assigned section.
No refund will be issued unless written cancellation is
received prior to October 1, 2003.
Accepted for Dare County Regional Airport
By:
. Section
Assigned:
Type Payment Received:
Date:
Deposited: Notified
by:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Interior upholstery material |
Could someone direct me to a good source of the kind of lightweight
interior upholstery material that they show on the "From the Ground Up"
series that is just glued to aluminum panels and burned with a soldering
iron for the screw holes? I have been to fabric stores and upholstery
stores, but everything I have seen looks too heavy.
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: RV6A rail bolts: |
Two things,
#1, build a small special socket wrench as many have,
or
#2, Install nutplats like I an many of my other fellow builders have.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
--> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | There are no dumb questions.... |
Steve;
Thanks for bringing this subject out to the world. I
have wondered about it myself. By the way for guys
like the Ogre, I am a fighter pilot with 3000 hours in
the F16 and THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS! Keep asking
my friend! Thanks.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- old ogre wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
>
>
> thanks , Jene...I did have a bad experience with
> using it just a few hours..(to
> get home)..and pre-ign..(that I didn't hear) really
> messed up the engine..wound
> up re-building the thing after only 590hrs on a new
> engine..and you should have
> seen the crud that came out of the sump! jolly in
> aurors
>
> Gene Smith wrote:
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
> >
> > I don't know what experience the "Jolly Ogre" had
> with auto oil, or how long
> > it was used, however, that advice is apparently
> correct.....A wonderful
> > source is Light Plane Maintenance Library:
> 1-800-241-7529, 75 Holly Hill
> > Lane/P.O. Box 2626/Greenwich, Ct.
> 06836-2626..........Their book on "Fuel &
> > Oil Systems," chapter 8 (Lubrication Requirements)
> page 103 says:
> > "Automotive oil should never be used however,
> since ash deposits will
> > eventually form in the combustion chamber,
> presenting a very real danger in
> > terms of preignition." There are other
> discussions on sludge, circulation,
> > and etc.......Chapter 7 discusses additives and is
> very enlightening on
> > their effectiveness. I recommend investigating
> this
> > info............CHEERS!!!!!..........Good luck
> Steve Mullins...........Gene
> > Smith. Original
> Message -----
> > From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Auto Oil?
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
>
> > >
> > > I tried it in an emergency situation a while
> back, and found that it was
> > NOT
> > > satisfactory....if you value your engine and
> your skin..don't do it!..blue
> > skys
> > > to you!...jolly, the oger in aurora, or.
> > >
> > > Steve Mullins wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve
> Mullins"
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys and Gals,
> > > >
> > > > I recently heard (or read) about the use of
> auto engine oil in Lyc and
> > Cont
> > > > a/c engines in exp a/c?
> > > > Does anyone have any experience/knowledge
> about this?
> > > >
> > > > Steve (always looking for a safe way to save a
> buck) Mullins, Ph.D.
> > > > Associate Professor of Economics
> > > > Drury University
> > > > 417.889.5609 (home)
> > > > 417.873.7299 (office)
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
I noticed there is an update on Van's website for the RV-10, which addresses
airfoil, flap design and stick vs. wheel issues. I'd say it's shaping up to
be one really sweet airplane.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int4.htm
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slippery stuff |
> To counter someone's remarks: One of my friends flies a 172 off the VA
coast doing fish spotting and has used Castrol 20W50 and auto gas in his
3000 HOUR 0-320 with no ill effects, burning 1 qt per 7 hours. In fact, he
has worn out 5 engines in 24,000 hours of fish spotting so I think he might
have a clue. I'm sure alot of the problems would be related to FAA/PMA and
other Fed bureaucracy. It's nice to ask why rather than blindly following
OLD TRENDS....
My two cents worth:
A commercial pilot I assume, flying in a stringent Part 135 operation, with
a certificated Airframe (Cessna 172) and the mighty fine Castrol 20W50
AUTO-OIL? And he does care about having an Auto-Gas STC for his
(commercially used) Airframe/Engine Combo, right?
By saying he flew 3000 hrs. with the engine, does that mean that this fellow
flew it for 3000 hrs. without the mandatory overhaul (again, P.135?) at 2000
hrs.?
Would you mind posting this pilots name and contact phone number on this
list, because I am sure some members would like to discuss his adventures,
experiences and recommendations directly with him?
Another $0.02 for the kitty:
Remember the Mobil-AV1 disaster? This oil destroyed the bottom ends of
engines, because (as I remember correctly) it could not cope with the lead
contend in 100-LL, to keep it suspended in the oil, so it separated and left
rotating things unlubricated enough to destroy them by operation of such?
Maybe it is not the oils but rather the incompatibility with some of the
fuels we feed them? Obviously not a problem with the guy in the above C-172
running Auto-Gas AND Auto-Oil? Maybe THAT was the missing link we all
needed to know about?
What is the price difference & cost savings between Castrol 20W50 versus
Aeroshell 100 anyway, to justify to mess with it? The price difference
comes to maybe $5.00-$6.00(?) per oilchange every 50 hrs.! So just about a
Dime an hour more for running what is recommended by the engine
manufacturers? I hate to reinvent the wheel, but rather use it for my
transportation!
> PS:I for one buy my Aeroshell wholesale from a distributor in large lots,
but run autogas mixed with Marvel with 750 great hours, clean plugs and
normal wear...
Just one penny for this one here:
I think Marvel Mystery Oil hasn't harmed any engine yet, so I use it in my
cars gastank once in a while as well, to clean the injection systems as well
as give a little extra lubrication to all parts involved. Like Chrismas
dinner for the engine! My A/C friends swear by it and/or lie for it!
Well, so far I spend my allowance of a Nickel today!
Hope I offended NO One, but still would see the 172 pilots contact info
posted?
Sincerely,
Konrad
Do not necessarily archive my $0.05
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: There are no dumb questions.... |
Guys
I was just reading over this Orge thread and I think that in the original
post from Ogre, my sense of it is he was indicating he was ASKING a dumb
question. Just thought I would say this in fairness.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV4-List: There are no dumb questions....
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Steve;
>
> Thanks for bringing this subject out to the world. I
> have wondered about it myself. By the way for guys
> like the Ogre, I am a fighter pilot with 3000 hours in
> the F16 and THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS! Keep asking
> my friend! Thanks.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
> --- old ogre wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
> >
> >
> > thanks , Jene...I did have a bad experience with
> > using it just a few hours..(to
> > get home)..and pre-ign..(that I didn't hear) really
> > messed up the engine..wound
> > up re-building the thing after only 590hrs on a new
> > engine..and you should have
> > seen the crud that came out of the sump! jolly in
> > aurors
> >
> > Gene Smith wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
> >
> > >
> > > I don't know what experience the "Jolly Ogre" had
> > with auto oil, or how long
> > > it was used, however, that advice is apparently
> > correct.....A wonderful
> > > source is Light Plane Maintenance Library:
> > 1-800-241-7529, 75 Holly Hill
> > > Lane/P.O. Box 2626/Greenwich, Ct.
> > 06836-2626..........Their book on "Fuel &
> > > Oil Systems," chapter 8 (Lubrication Requirements)
> > page 103 says:
> > > "Automotive oil should never be used however,
> > since ash deposits will
> > > eventually form in the combustion chamber,
> > presenting a very real danger in
> > > terms of preignition." There are other
> > discussions on sludge, circulation,
> > > and etc.......Chapter 7 discusses additives and is
> > very enlightening on
> > > their effectiveness. I recommend investigating
> > this
> > > info............CHEERS!!!!!..........Good luck
> > Steve Mullins...........Gene
> > > Smith. Original
> > Message -----
> > > From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Auto Oil?
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
> >
> > > >
> > > > I tried it in an emergency situation a while
> > back, and found that it was
> > > NOT
> > > > satisfactory....if you value your engine and
> > your skin..don't do it!..blue
> > > skys
> > > > to you!...jolly, the oger in aurora, or.
> > > >
> > > > Steve Mullins wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve
> > Mullins"
> > > > >
> > > > > Hey Guys and Gals,
> > > > >
> > > > > I recently heard (or read) about the use of
> > auto engine oil in Lyc and
> > > Cont
> > > > > a/c engines in exp a/c?
> > > > > Does anyone have any experience/knowledge
> > about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Steve (always looking for a safe way to save a
> > buck) Mullins, Ph.D.
> > > > > Associate Professor of Economics
> > > > > Drury University
> > > > > 417.889.5609 (home)
> > > > > 417.873.7299 (office)
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Could be a good buy |
Hi all
I came across this today and thought I would pass it along. Might be a good
buy for some one looking for the engine, and get someing to fly until you
need it in the mean time.
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/jdann/cgiby
Cheers.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | There are no dumb questions.... |
Amen to that! I'm literally a font of dumb questions! And don't worry, I
have just as many dumb answers too!
RV-Listers, whatever your question may be, dumb or otherwise, don't let the
list police discourage you. Ask away. Just remember to try to search the
archives first if you can. If you don't have web access, say so. We won't
laugh at you too long.
Did I mention that I'm an opinionated son of a gun too?
Scott (Defender of the Dumb) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: There are no dumb questions....
Steve;
Thanks for bringing this subject out to the world. I
have wondered about it myself. By the way for guys
like the Ogre, I am a fighter pilot with 3000 hours in
the F16 and THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS! Keep asking
my friend! Thanks.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- old ogre wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
>
>
> thanks , Jene...I did have a bad experience with
> using it just a few hours..(to
> get home)..and pre-ign..(that I didn't hear) really
> messed up the engine..wound
> up re-building the thing after only 590hrs on a new
> engine..and you should have
> seen the crud that came out of the sump! jolly in
> aurors
>
> Gene Smith wrote:
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
>
> >
> > I don't know what experience the "Jolly Ogre" had
> with auto oil, or how long
> > it was used, however, that advice is apparently
> correct.....A wonderful
> > source is Light Plane Maintenance Library:
> 1-800-241-7529, 75 Holly Hill
> > Lane/P.O. Box 2626/Greenwich, Ct.
> 06836-2626..........Their book on "Fuel &
> > Oil Systems," chapter 8 (Lubrication Requirements)
> page 103 says:
> > "Automotive oil should never be used however,
> since ash deposits will
> > eventually form in the combustion chamber,
> presenting a very real danger in
> > terms of preignition." There are other
> discussions on sludge, circulation,
> > and etc.......Chapter 7 discusses additives and is
> very enlightening on
> > their effectiveness. I recommend investigating
> this
> > info............CHEERS!!!!!..........Good luck
> Steve Mullins...........Gene
> > Smith. Original
> Message -----
> > From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Auto Oil?
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
>
> > >
> > > I tried it in an emergency situation a while
> back, and found that it was
> > NOT
> > > satisfactory....if you value your engine and
> your skin..don't do it!..blue
> > skys
> > > to you!...jolly, the oger in aurora, or.
> > >
> > > Steve Mullins wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve
> Mullins"
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys and Gals,
> > > >
> > > > I recently heard (or read) about the use of
> auto engine oil in Lyc and
> > Cont
> > > > a/c engines in exp a/c?
> > > > Does anyone have any experience/knowledge
> about this?
> > > >
> > > > Steve (always looking for a safe way to save a
> buck) Mullins, Ph.D.
> > > > Associate Professor of Economics
> > > > Drury University
> > > > 417.889.5609 (home)
> > > > 417.873.7299 (office)
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
Hello Listers:
l,ve been following the chatter about auto vs aviation oil with
interest these last few days and would like to throw in my two cents worth
on it. First l would not endorse either one as the beauty of a homebuilt is
that we are pretty much free to decide what we want to run in our engines
and when and how much.
However l have to give thought to those engines that run in these
race cars such as Datona and even the Indy 500 as well as numerous other
tracks thruout our great nation. Consider the Porsche's that run . Here is an
engine pretty much the same design as the 0320 or 360. Aircooled, runs an
oil cooler, has a dry sump and probably about the same compression
ratio,maybe a little higher, and runs about three times the revs for an
entire 24 hrs without the oil breaking down and burning anything up. Consider
the abuse that that engine has to endure and the length of time it has to
endure it. Now having said that, can anyone say that that oil has shown
itself to be inferior in any way to what we have been trained to believe , is
the far superior Aviation Oil? I agree with Rob Ray when he states that
there are no dumb questions, However l think that the real dumb question is
the one that we were afraid to ask, for fear of the ridicule that we may
subject ourselves to.
I think that we should open our eyes, question what we want
to know and then make our own decisions from the info that we have available.
l pray that l hav,nt offended anyone with my thoughts on oils, they are my
own. l wish you all blue skys and CAVU. George Spring Chester, Ct.
RV-4 4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Auto Oils |
While reading the list on oil, marvel mystery oil was mentioned. can you put
it in avgas? how much is added? is it really good for the engine? or just a
precaution?
thanks
dan carley
rv-4 N2275S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
opinions out there?
Thanks
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
opinions out there?
Thanks
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source |
Hi Folks,
I don't remember how I went about estimating how much of the 1/8-inch
copper tubing I would need to plumb the primer, but I have come up 6
inches short.
I have not found any in that size at the usual places (Home Depot,
Lowes, Hobby store) and am wondering if anyone has found an unexpected
local-to-a-fair-sized-city source of this stuff. I've padded the
subject line for the future because it appears from an archive search
that others are more clever then me and haven't run into this problem.
Haven't been to a small-motor shop (read lawn-mower repair) but don't
even know if those type machines even use it.
Hate to order a foot and pay their shipping and worst of all, have to
wait!
At this end of the project things get impatient, as some of you know.
Thanks!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Auto Oils |
Dear Dan,
The red Marvelous Mystery Bottle reads as follows:
For best results add 4 ounces to each 10 gallons of gasoline or diesel
fuels. For fleet use in bulk tanks add 1quart (32oz.) to each 100 gallons of
gasoline or diesel fuel. (I do know that the diesel part has no relevance,
so please don't ask if you can now run diesel fuel in your RV!). . . . . .
Treat yourself to a bottle in the next Auto Parts store, they run less than
$3.00 / 32oz.(quart) around here. I use it mainly as a precaution (or better
supplement) and to just baby my internal combustion toys around here.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Auto Oils
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> While reading the list on oil, marvel mystery oil was mentioned. can you
put
> it in avgas? how much is added? is it really good for the engine? or just
a
> precaution?
>
> thanks
> dan carley
>
> rv-4 N2275S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi Listers,
I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all my
fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the appearance of
pinholes in the S cowl....
Until you shoot a prime on it, it is just not visible as to how porous it
looks.
GAWD, it looks just like screen mesh for a screen door....I know my primer
ain't going to fill that..have you seen the same ?
What is the best remedy to fill before thinking about top color ?
I did try some superfill and epoxy over part of it but the results were not
too great and it is very labor intensive for such a big area....what have
you guys done ??
Any input appreciated.
Thanks,
Austin
Vancouver.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: There are no dumb questions.... |
>>Rob said..
>>I am a fighter pilot with 3000 hours in
>>the F16
You really know how to hurt a guy, Rob. My dad was AAF and flew Thunderbolts
in WWII. I wanted to fly military as well, but eyesight kept me out. Do you
feel guilty for being PAID to fly Falcons?
(Just kidding, I know it is hard, dangerous work.)
Cheers!
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV4-List: There are no dumb questions....
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Steve;
>
> Thanks for bringing this subject out to the world. I
> have wondered about it myself. By the way for guys
> like the Ogre, I am a fighter pilot with 3000 hours in
> the F16 and THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS! Keep asking
> my friend! Thanks.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
> --- old ogre wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
> >
> >
> > thanks , Jene...I did have a bad experience with
> > using it just a few hours..(to
> > get home)..and pre-ign..(that I didn't hear) really
> > messed up the engine..wound
> > up re-building the thing after only 590hrs on a new
> > engine..and you should have
> > seen the crud that came out of the sump! jolly in
> > aurors
> >
> > Gene Smith wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Gene Smith"
> >
> > >
> > > I don't know what experience the "Jolly Ogre" had
> > with auto oil, or how long
> > > it was used, however, that advice is apparently
> > correct.....A wonderful
> > > source is Light Plane Maintenance Library:
> > 1-800-241-7529, 75 Holly Hill
> > > Lane/P.O. Box 2626/Greenwich, Ct.
> > 06836-2626..........Their book on "Fuel &
> > > Oil Systems," chapter 8 (Lubrication Requirements)
> > page 103 says:
> > > "Automotive oil should never be used however,
> > since ash deposits will
> > > eventually form in the combustion chamber,
> > presenting a very real danger in
> > > terms of preignition." There are other
> > discussions on sludge, circulation,
> > > and etc.......Chapter 7 discusses additives and is
> > very enlightening on
> > > their effectiveness. I recommend investigating
> > this
> > > info............CHEERS!!!!!..........Good luck
> > Steve Mullins...........Gene
> > > Smith. Original
> > Message -----
> > > From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Auto Oil?
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: old ogre
> >
> > > >
> > > > I tried it in an emergency situation a while
> > back, and found that it was
> > > NOT
> > > > satisfactory....if you value your engine and
> > your skin..don't do it!..blue
> > > skys
> > > > to you!...jolly, the oger in aurora, or.
> > > >
> > > > Steve Mullins wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve
> > Mullins"
> > > > >
> > > > > Hey Guys and Gals,
> > > > >
> > > > > I recently heard (or read) about the use of
> > auto engine oil in Lyc and
> > > Cont
> > > > > a/c engines in exp a/c?
> > > > > Does anyone have any experience/knowledge
> > about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Steve (always looking for a safe way to save a
> > buck) Mullins, Ph.D.
> > > > > Associate Professor of Economics
> > > > > Drury University
> > > > > 417.889.5609 (home)
> > > > > 417.873.7299 (office)
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Saindon" <wfsaindon(at)clinic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
Rick, I can't answer your question about the navaid. But when I built my RV3
I didn't have any problems with with my engine mount holes lining up. If I
remember right you only drill the holes to 3/16th or so until you get your
mount. Mine lined up perfectly.
Bill Saindon
RV3 15.6 flying time (Painting A/C)
Bowdoinham, Me
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Richard D. Fogerson"
>
> Hi Everyone,
> I have a couple of questions:
>
> 1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
> can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
>
> 2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
> fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
> misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
> when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
> necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
> opinions out there?
>
> Thanks
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/18/02 7:40:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
<< Hi Listers,
I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all my
fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the appearance of
pinholes in the S cowl....
Until you shoot a prime on it, it is just not visible as to how porous it
looks.
GAWD, it looks just like screen mesh for a screen door....I know my primer
ain't going to fill that..have you seen the same ?
What is the best remedy to fill before thinking about top color ?
I did try some superfill and epoxy over part of it but the results were not
too great and it is very labor intensive for such a big area....what have
you guys done ??
Any input appreciated.
Thanks,
Austin
Vancouver. >>
My recommendation is an epoxy/micro mix squeegied into the cowl, then sanded
smooth, then primed. I used the "smoothprime" pinhole filling product, and
thought it was OK, but I'd skip it and just do the microballoon thing if I
was going to repeat the task.
The archives have quite a bit of information on this subject.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Firewall |
In a message dated 3/17/2002 7:50:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
>
> this will be your break line holding point. in other words, you will need
> to
> secure your lines from the peddles to this block. the they run from there
> on
> to the rest of the sysytem.
>
>
This is a good place to install your parking brake valve too.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Dear George,
> However l have to give thought to those engines that run in these
> race cars such as Datona and even the Indy 500 as well as numerous other
> tracks thruout our great nation. Consider the Porsche's that run . Here is
an
> engine pretty much the same design as the 0320 or 360. Aircooled, runs an
> oil cooler, has a dry sump and probably about the same compression
> ratio, maybe a little higher, and runs about three times the revs for an
> entire 24 hrs without the oil breaking down and burning anything up.
**My first two cents:
And the Porsche engine has tighter tolerances, maybe higher compression,
even twin turbo charged and best of all, a beltdriven FORCED FAN AIR
COOLING! If the belt(s) goes, you are talking about a rapid meltdown of the
engine! Our beloved A/C Engines use fuel to aid cooling on climbout, 'cause
they miss the fan, and have tolerances you can drop a penny thru, etc. etc.
BTW: The meltdown test is less costly to try on a Beatle-Engine vs. the
Porsche. Ever wondered why the VW Aero Conversions never developed the
power the same engine would easily get in the VW-cars? Excessive HEAT, or
better the lack of sufficient removel of same from the engine during its
operation!
> Consider the abuse that that engine has to endure and the length of time
it has to
> endure it. Now having said that, can anyone say that that oil has shown
> itself to be inferior in any way to what we have been trained to believe,
is
> the far superior Aviation Oil?
**Another two cents:
The Oil is only a part of the big picture, the oil does the job it is
intended for, consider this:
I use a (diesel specific) mineral Chevron Delo 400-15W40 in the Cummins
Engine year round with engine heater, but use synthetic Mobil 1-15W50 in
both our cars in the summer and Mobil 1-10W30 in the colder months. So why
don't I use the far "superior" synthetic Mobil 1 in the Diesel Engine too?
Because that is not what it was designed for! It just can't handle the Soot
concentrations present there, but it does just great with high revving & hot
running gas engines. So, it has somewhat to do with the fueling of the
powerplant, doesn't it?
How about this one: "Would I be running Aeroshell of any kind in a Porsche
engine?" Oh Lord no, unless Shell formulates it for use in a tightly
toleranced, high performance, hotrunning (aircooled or watercooled) small
displacement engine.
And about "Superior Aviation Oil": It is highly, but also only-, superior
in the environment it was designed for! Slow turning, big volumed A/C
Engines!
Ever wondered how the manufacturers got newer cars to run on 10W30, then
5W30 and now even 5W20 all year round. In the hot summers, the viscosity
must be a just a little above water on the last one. It's all in the
tolerances which effect the ever tighter emmission regulations mandated by
the Fed's, and thinner oil gives better fuel mileage as well. How come a
Rotax 912 should use Mobil 1? Same tight reason, and because it comes with
liquid cooled heads as well for better Head Temp.-Control. And because the
Austrian's designed (and therefore recommend) their little highrevving
engine to be run on Auto-Oil !!!!
So, I am shelling out the $4.00 for the Mobil-1 for my Cars, then $1.50 for
the Delo-400 for the Diesel Truck. And the specialized Aero-Oil (which runs
here about $2.25 single / $4.25 multi viscosity) is right in there in cost
as well, so what would anyone prove in using the Auto-Oil in the Aviation
environment???
What exactly is the Point that I miss in the equation of savings vs.
benefits?
Or maybe it is just a way to come up with another wrongful death lawsuit by
suing an (Auto-)Oil Co. after the ensuing fire that followed the crash of a
beloved Test-Pilot ??
No offense, but i think Aeroshell, etc. is my best bacon insurance
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Lights: Lens Shape |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
Randall,
I read your post and recognized your name. You have a great web site and
I plan to refer to it as I build my fuselage.
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
> Hi Listers,
> I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all my
> fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the appearance of
> pinholes in the S cowl
The long answer is that there is a green putty that comes in a tube that is
available at all auto body and auto paint retailers that does a good job in
filling those little holes. Sorry, I forgot what the stuff is called, but its
a
common material and if you ask for it by this description you'll get the right
stuff. You apply it with a small plastic squeegie and sand off the excess.
The short answer is to be happy you're not building a Lancair.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ahman <ahmanrv4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Project FOR SALE |
Not sure what he is asking, but as a reference I purchased my second hand
'82 vintage Empennage & Wing kits (without hardware such as hinges which had
been used by the owner for other projects) for $800 total.
Best regards,
Jim Ahman
RV-4, Empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Project FOR SALE
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Hi Konrad;
>
> What are you asking for your kit?
>
> Rob
> --- Konrad Werner wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
> >
> >
> > My fellow RVators,
> >
> > RV-4 Tail & Wing Kits FOR SALE
> > Early 1980's Kit, Serial number is in the two
> > digits. A VIRGIN (i.e.
> > nearly untouched).
> > Today's cost from Vans would be over $5400 for the
> > same Kit (-with
> > predrilled parts).
> >
> > This is a great opportunity to get started on a
> > Van's RV-4, while at the
> > same time saving some serious (engine) money over
> > buying new!
> > Please contact me OFF LIST if you are interested,
> > and then make me a
> > reasonable offer for the two Kits!
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Konrad Werner
> > Albuquerque, NM.
> > Connywerner(at)wans.net
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
The Navaid servo can be easily mounted at the wing tip of *any* RV.
Click here:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
I think this is the mounting method now recommended by the Navaid guys;
they now include hardware and drawings with the servo for the wing tip
installation.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
======================
"Richard D. Fogerson" wrote:
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
> I have a couple of questions:
>
> 1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
> can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
I had an interesting experience the other day that reminded me of how
important preflight passenger briefings are.
A gentleman called me at work, introduced himself as someone I met at an EAA
meeting, and asked if he could get a ride in the RV. I remembered one guy
from our last meeting who was considering an RV-4, and had asked for a ride
whenever we could get together. Being terrible with names, I form a mental
picture of the RV-4 guy who is maybe 5'9, 170 lbs, and say OK. We make
arrangements to meet at an airport convenient to him. After work, off I go,
and meet him at the designated airport.
After landing, I'm directed to park on the ramp beside a BeechJet. I stop
the airplane, recognize my passenger on sight, and realize that this isn't
the person I expected. This guy is 6'2, 300+ pounds. With me sitting in the
cockpit and him standing on the pilot's side of the airplane, we chit chat
for a minute, and the BeechJet pilots come up and ask if I want to trade
airplanes for a trip around the pattern. I told the BeechJet guys that I'd
be glad to, but they would have to show me how to start the engines, and I
was kind of in a hurry. Maybe next time? They look disappointed.
About then, I tell my passenger "Let's get you in the airplane, 'cause its
gonna be dark in an hour and I want to be home before then". Before I can
untangle myself from the headsets and unbuckle the harness, he darts around
the plane and is quickly standing on the right wing. I'm thinking "I hope he
only stepped on the wing walk, not a flap or something". Before this thought
clears, he begins to climb into the cockpit using the sliding canopy and the
roll-over fairing as his handholds. I tell him "WOAH Big Fella", and explain
what he can and CANNOT grab as he climbs in.
About that time, I'm thinking that we're right at my gross weight of 1675
pounds, and he simply isn't gonna get a very good ride, because I don't yank
the airplane around at those weights, and takeoff and climb performance are
degraded.
We get him buckled in, I crank the engine, and go to retract the flaps. His
butt is in the way of the flap handle. With some deft manipulation he pulls
his left cheek out of the way so I can raise the flaps. As I'm talking to
ground control and (later) the tower, he's just talking away over there,
without regard to whether I need to hear what the FAA guys are saying.
In my one smart move of the day, I have him remove the copilot's stick just
to make sure I have full control movement (big stomach and thighs on this
guy) on takeoff.
Finally, we launch, using a lot of runway (for an RV, anyway), and as we
depart, he's still talking. Despite my hints, he continued to talk for
almost the entire flight. Later, when we returned to the field, I finally
had to ask him to keep quiet unless he saw something wrong.
The flight itself was uneventful. After a while, I had him reinstall the
stick on the copilot's side, and allowed him to fly for a while. The first
minute or so, I kept my hand on the stick as a damper, and made sure to
remind him of how sensitive the airplane was. This was a good move too,
because he was inclined to overcontrol. Once he got the feel of the
airplane, he was fine...
I did have him remove the copilots stick before we landed.
After I dropped him off and returned to my home field, I checked the sheet
metal on the right wing. It was getting dark, but I could see heel marks
where his shoes had scuffed across the wing. The heel marks rubbed out with
thumb pressure, and I don't THINK there are any dents, but it was too dark to
tell. I'll check later.
What did I learn for next time?
1) I'll know exactly who I'm giving a ride to before I agree. I'll also have
a good idea of their size. If there is any question, I'll clarify before
agreeing to give the ride.
2) I'll make sure the prospective passenger knows not to touch the aircraft
until I explicitly explain where the handholds and footholds are. (Aside:
Why is it that people who walk up to your airplane when you're sitting in it
like to lean on the canopy? Also, why do people at airshows do the same thing
when they want to look at the panel? I HATE it when people touch the plexi.
Too expensive, too much time to build, too fragile, too easily scratched, and
too hard to repair!)
3) I'll explain my "quiet cockpit" rule, which applies within 10 miles of
ANY airport. This rule is that unless the passenger sees a potential traffic
conflict, or sees something else amiss, s/he needs to be quiet so I can hear
the radio.
Believe it or not, I have always followed these three rules (until this
flight). In this case, I got sloppy because of time considerations.
This fellow isn't on the RV-list, so I don't feel bad about publishing this
here. However, I ask that it NOT be posted elsewhere. No need to embarrass
the guy if he goes web-searching one day...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source |
This stuff can be really tricky to find. I ended up finding 2 local auto
parts stores that had it. The big chains like Shucks didn't have it but I
found some in 2 of the smaller, local, more expensive type places. Call
every auto parts place in the yellow pages and you might get lucky.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I don't remember how I went about estimating how much of the 1/8-inch
> copper tubing I would need to plumb the primer, but I have come up 6
> inches short.
>
> I have not found any in that size at the usual places (Home Depot,
> Lowes, Hobby store) and am wondering if anyone has found an unexpected
> local-to-a-fair-sized-city source of this stuff. I've padded the
> subject line for the future because it appears from an archive search
> that others are more clever then me and haven't run into this problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
I renamed Bill Marvel's post and reposted it, as this tip is definitely one
of the most valuable in a long time (wish I had known about this in the
car-head days of my youth)
> Hint for many uses: get a can of fuel lube, available from most aviation
> suppliers. Aside from its obvious use of lubing threads, valves, etc. in
fuel
> systems, it has another incredibly valuable property. The stuff is really
sticky
> and allows you to attach washers, nuts, rivets, etc to your finger or to a
piece
> of sheet metal used as an extension for holding the part in difficult
areas to
> reach.
The stuff is not called fuel lube anymore, but if you call Spruce and ask
for it they will tell you what it is now called.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 102 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV financing (without longevity at residence or job) |
Over the years (62 of them) I've come to the understanding that banks etc.
want you to prove you don't need a loan before you can get one. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV financing (without longevity at residence or job)
> I just got turned down for financing from NAFCO because I just moved and I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A rail bolts: |
> Has anyone devised a simple way of installing the nuts on the underside
> of the sliding canopy side rails on an RV 6A?
Nutplates are the way to go here. Additionally, the two little stepped
brackets which are under the rollover bar are good candidates for large
nutplates.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 102 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
Rick,
Navaid question, I can't help you much.
Engine mount question:
Buy mount now or later? It's a matter of choice.
The pre drilled locating holes in the firewall are small enough to allow the
mount to be placed on the firewall to find best average position. Moving the
mount over the holes and finding two of the holes that when centered offer
the best overall fit. Clamp the mount in place, drill and bolt the first two
holes thereby locking the mount in place. Next use the remaining engine
mount bolt position bosses as guides to drill out the rest of the holes.
If you are concerned that this method might damage the engine mount bosses
use a piece of tube that will slide inside the mount bosses. Use a drill
that will fit inside. Grease this drill guide, drill with a drill that will
fit inside it. Now the holes will be on center and can be final drilled to
spec without fear of undue damage to the mount.
If the mount bosses and holes are off center so bad that this procedure
seems scary!, They were likely drilled wrong at source, check hole position
against drawing callouts. Call the boys at Vans.
Jim in Kelowna
From: "Bill Saindon" <wfsaindon(at)clinic.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with
Fuselage
> Rick, I can't answer your question about the navaid. But when I built my
RV3
> I didn't have any problems with with my engine mount holes lining up. If I
> remember right you only drill the holes to 3/16th or so until you get your
> mount. Mine lined up perfectly.
>
> Bill Saindon
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
> Subject: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage
>
> > Hi Everyone,
> > I have a couple of questions:
> >
> > 1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
> > can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
> >
> > 2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
> > fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
> > misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
> > when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
> > necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
> > opinions out there?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Rick Fogerson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV financing (without longevity at residence or job) |
Subject: RV-List: RV financing (without longevity at residence or job)
>
> I just got turned down for financing from NAFCO because I just moved and I
> just started my job a few months ago. They said my credit was fine, it
was
> just the longevity factors. I spoke to the head honcho over there and he
> admitted that my credit was good but he had to stick by the rules. This
> sucks!
If the option is available, a home equity loan may provide a lower and
perhaps also tax deductable interest payment on a loan.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS
Savannah
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV financing (without longevity at residence or job) |
In a message dated 3/18/2002 10:50:44 PM Central Standard Time,
rsipp(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I just got turned down for financing from NAFCO because I just moved and I
> > just started my job a few months ago. They said my credit was fine, it
> was
> > just the longevity factors. I spoke to the head honcho over there and he
> > admitted that my credit was good but he had to stick by the rules. This
> > sucks!
>
> If the option is available, a home equity loan may provide a lower and
> perhaps also tax deductable interest payment on a loan.
>
>
> Dick Sipp
> RV4 250DS
> Savannah
Talk to textron, they finance RV's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>
> The stuff is not called fuel lube anymore, but if you call Spruce and ask
> for it they will tell you what it is now called.
Spruce always has to do things different, and take a long time doing it (my
last order took seven months to get right). My preferred supplier, Wicks,
calls it fuel lube and the part number is FUEL-LUBE. Checkout
http://wicks.overcoffee.com/gotopage.php?page=52 .
Rob Acker (RV-6).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Auto Oil? (Bad Language) |
> PS:I for one buy my Aeroshell wholesale from a
> distributor in large lots,
snip
How large of lots, and at what kind of savings? I've always thohght our
local RV group, with more than 45 flying RVs, ought to be able to come up
with some sort of group purchase arrangement....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ernie billing <ebilling(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer overhaul? |
I found a Chicago Pneumatic CP214 (just like Avery's)
squeezer on EBay for $150. Its almost in working
order but I think it needs a re-seal. Barely squeezes
a -3 rivet at 100PSI. Anyone around sell kits for
this or can anyone recommend someone to send it to?
Ernie Billing
ebilling(at)yahoo.com
RV7 - Still on HS
San Luis Obispo, CA
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | re: Pneumatic squeezer overhaul? |
Ernie - send it to Fred Kunkel - he did a terrific job of fixing my squeezer after
I
tested it for being Marine-proof (i.e., I knocked it off my workbench!). I haven't
heard from him lately, but I presume he's still in business - Fred, you up on
frequency, and can you help Ernie out?
John
RV-6 (left wing fuel tank)
> From: ernie billing <ebilling(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic squeezer overhaul?
>
>
> I found a Chicago Pneumatic CP214 (just like Avery's)
> squeezer on EBay for $150. Its almost in working
> order but I think it needs a re-seal. Barely squeezes
> a -3 rivet at 100PSI. Anyone around sell kits for
> this or can anyone recommend someone to send it to?
>
> Ernie Billing
> ebilling(at)yahoo.com
> RV7 - Still on HS
> San Luis Obispo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV3-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/18/02 |
I ordered my complete rv-3 kit from vans in 1994. It came with a dynafocal
mount. Before I finished the plane 18 months later I found a conical mount
0-320 and had to exchange gear and mount that came with my kit. There were
no problems that I can remember. Also, I don't believe there was a single
pre-drilled hole in the entire kit anyway.
Can't help on navaid question. Floating compass is all I have.
Gray
Southern Pines, NC
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Richard D. Fogerson"
Hi Everyone,
I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
opinions out there?
Thanks
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Preflight Briefing |
Whew Kyle,
I was about to tell you how much of a WACKO you were to put a 300# Pax in an
RV-4. You said you were worried about gross, and I'm thinking what the hell
about CG, man this guy is dead in 2 years if he didn't come back from that
flight thinking that that was the spookiest airplane he'd ever flown. Then
I realized you had a '6. Sorry for doubting you.
Don Mei (no 300# pax please)
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:07:41 AM
Austin, get some K36 from the local ppg dealer. Reduce it a bit with MEK
and just pour it ahead of a squeegee. Just trowl the thing as you go. Then
when it drys do an initial sand with about 180 grit and your pinhole
problems will be gone. I learned this from a guy who de-pinholed an entire
Thunder Mustang in about 8 hours, the conventional way would have taken
weeks.
Eric
"Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>(at)matronics.com on 01/04/80 07:02:35 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Pinholes
Hi Listers,
I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all my
fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the appearance of
pinholes in the S cowl....
Until you shoot a prime on it, it is just not visible as to how porous it
looks.
GAWD, it looks just like screen mesh for a screen door....I know my primer
ain't going to fill that..have you seen the same ?
What is the best remedy to fill before thinking about top color ?
I did try some superfill and epoxy over part of it but the results were
not
too great and it is very labor intensive for such a big area....what have
you guys done ??
Any input appreciated.
Thanks,
Austin
Vancouver.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED BY
FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Good thoughts, Ken. This is a real safety issue, and I hope everyone reads
and heeds your guidance.
I am up to about 300 dual rides in my RV-6A, and a few scary events while in
the Air Force. One thing I would add. My procedures evolved to ever more
simple rules as I had experiences like yours. One perhaps worth passing on
to add to your excellent words:
My rule is to ALWAYS stand beside the passenger and point to where he/she is
to step, where to put hands where to place butt, and how to step on my
beloved seat (with a towel on it). When they get in, I personally strap
them in, regardless of age, weight or sex. (one time of having the
starboard seat belt enclose the rudder cable is enough). I then show them
how to adjust the straps, put the headset on them, and go to the other side.
At this point you can decide about the stick removal. If I had a tandem,
the rule would be always remove the stick.
> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:33:42 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings
>
>
> I had an interesting experience the other day that reminded me of how
> important preflight passenger briefings are.
>
> A gentleman called me at work, introduced himself as someone I met at an EAA
> meeting, and asked if he could get a ride in the RV. I remembered one guy
> from our last meeting who was considering an RV-4, and had asked for a ride
> whenever we could get together. Being terrible with names, I form a mental
> picture of the RV-4 guy who is maybe 5'9, 170 lbs, and say OK. We make
> arrangements to meet at an airport convenient to him. After work, off I go,
> and meet him at the designated airport.
>
> After landing, I'm directed to park on the ramp beside a BeechJet. I stop
> the airplane, recognize my passenger on sight, and realize that this isn't
> the person I expected. This guy is 6'2, 300+ pounds. With me sitting in the
> cockpit and him standing on the pilot's side of the airplane, we chit chat
> for a minute, and the BeechJet pilots come up and ask if I want to trade
> airplanes for a trip around the pattern. I told the BeechJet guys that I'd
> be glad to, but they would have to show me how to start the engines, and I
> was kind of in a hurry. Maybe next time? They look disappointed.
>
> About then, I tell my passenger "Let's get you in the airplane, 'cause its
> gonna be dark in an hour and I want to be home before then". Before I can
> untangle myself from the headsets and unbuckle the harness, he darts around
> the plane and is quickly standing on the right wing. I'm thinking "I hope he
> only stepped on the wing walk, not a flap or something". Before this thought
> clears, he begins to climb into the cockpit using the sliding canopy and the
> roll-over fairing as his handholds. I tell him "WOAH Big Fella", and explain
> what he can and CANNOT grab as he climbs in.
>
> About that time, I'm thinking that we're right at my gross weight of 1675
> pounds, and he simply isn't gonna get a very good ride, because I don't yank
> the airplane around at those weights, and takeoff and climb performance are
> degraded.
>
> We get him buckled in, I crank the engine, and go to retract the flaps. His
> butt is in the way of the flap handle. With some deft manipulation he pulls
> his left cheek out of the way so I can raise the flaps. As I'm talking to
> ground control and (later) the tower, he's just talking away over there,
> without regard to whether I need to hear what the FAA guys are saying.
>
> In my one smart move of the day, I have him remove the copilot's stick just
> to make sure I have full control movement (big stomach and thighs on this
> guy) on takeoff.
>
> Finally, we launch, using a lot of runway (for an RV, anyway), and as we
> depart, he's still talking. Despite my hints, he continued to talk for
> almost the entire flight. Later, when we returned to the field, I finally
> had to ask him to keep quiet unless he saw something wrong.
>
> The flight itself was uneventful. After a while, I had him reinstall the
> stick on the copilot's side, and allowed him to fly for a while. The first
> minute or so, I kept my hand on the stick as a damper, and made sure to
> remind him of how sensitive the airplane was. This was a good move too,
> because he was inclined to overcontrol. Once he got the feel of the
> airplane, he was fine...
>
> I did have him remove the copilots stick before we landed.
>
> After I dropped him off and returned to my home field, I checked the sheet
> metal on the right wing. It was getting dark, but I could see heel marks
> where his shoes had scuffed across the wing. The heel marks rubbed out with
> thumb pressure, and I don't THINK there are any dents, but it was too dark to
> tell. I'll check later.
>
> What did I learn for next time?
>
> 1) I'll know exactly who I'm giving a ride to before I agree. I'll also have
> a good idea of their size. If there is any question, I'll clarify before
> agreeing to give the ride.
>
> 2) I'll make sure the prospective passenger knows not to touch the aircraft
> until I explicitly explain where the handholds and footholds are. (Aside:
> Why is it that people who walk up to your airplane when you're sitting in it
> like to lean on the canopy? Also, why do people at airshows do the same thing
> when they want to look at the panel? I HATE it when people touch the plexi.
> Too expensive, too much time to build, too fragile, too easily scratched, and
> too hard to repair!)
>
> 3) I'll explain my "quiet cockpit" rule, which applies within 10 miles of
> ANY airport. This rule is that unless the passenger sees a potential traffic
> conflict, or sees something else amiss, s/he needs to be quiet so I can hear
> the radio.
>
> Believe it or not, I have always followed these three rules (until this
> flight). In this case, I got sloppy because of time considerations.
>
> This fellow isn't on the RV-list, so I don't feel bad about publishing this
> here. However, I ask that it NOT be posted elsewhere. No need to embarrass
> the guy if he goes web-searching one day...
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
This is from Landings......Don't know if he was flying it though..... My
condolences to family and friends.......... AL
N-number : N491T
Aircraft Serial Number : 891
Aircraft Manufacturer : TRENTI MARIO FRANK
Model : RV-4
Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING Model : 0-320 SERIES
Aircraft Year : 1991
Owner Name : TRENTI MARIO F
Owner Address : PO BOX 546 JACUMBA, CA, 91934-0546
Registration Date : 30-Oct-1990
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built
>
>IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
> Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Destroyed
>
>LOCATION
> City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
>
>DESCRIPTION
> EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED BY
> FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
Rick,
I think your on your own. When your done, would you mind posting your
results? I'd be interested in reading how it went.
Thanks,
-Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV3-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Richard D. Fogerson"
>
> Hi Everyone,
> I have a couple of questions:
>
> 1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
> can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
>
> 2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
> fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
> misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
> when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
> necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
> opinions out there?
>
> Thanks
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
> Boise, ID
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | RV-7 construction speed |
> The new tail was completed yesterday after about 10 hours of very easy work.
> Only had to drill out one rivet.
10 hours? For crying out loud! I know I'm not Mr. Speedy, but I think
I had around 200 hours on my RV-6 tail. I know, it should have been less
than that, but still....
10 hours.
Dana, is the rest of the kit done to a similar level as the tail? For instance,
are the wing ribs pre-punched?
I think I'm going to go cry now. I'd be further along in my kit if I'd waited
for the RV-7 than starting 5 years before it came out. (Of course, two moves,
one divorce, several rather extensive job contracts, and a number of home
improvement projects DID interfere, but I'd STILL be further ahead now...)
-J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
>
>
>Good thoughts, Ken. This is a real safety issue, and I hope everyone reads
>and heeds your guidance.
>
Yes indeed. After one old timer in the back seat of my -8 almost tore the
wings off the plane by hamfisting the stick, I have since conducted all dual
flights/rides as if they no NOTHING about airplanes. They do not approach
the airplane for the flight without me being right next to them. They do
not get in without me telling them exactly how to do so. I strap them in,
show them what they can and cannot touch, and how the flight will be
conducted. They do not insert the stick (which is stowed in broomstick
clips on the seat back) to fly until I say so, and they follow me through on
some turns while being cautioned as to the sensitivity of the controls.
This is especially emphasized for pitch inputs, with the more aft CG when
flying dual. When they are flying the airplane, my hand is very close to
the stick, to arrest any sudden inputs. This has worked well so far.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
As per a www.landings.com database search,
the RV-4 was registered as follows:
N-number : N491T
Aircraft Serial Number : 891
Aircraft Manufacturer : TRENTI MARIO FRANK
Model : RV-4
Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING
Model : 0-320 SERIES
Aircraft Year : 1991
Owner Name : TRENTI MARIO F
Owner Address : PO BOX 546 / JACUMBA, CA, 91934-0546
Registration Date : 30-Oct-1990
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built
I have no info on the cause of the accident.
K.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: anyone has more info?
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
> Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing:
N
> Damage: Destroyed
>
> LOCATION
> City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED
BY
> FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
Name is not familiar. RV listers are also asking who.....
>>> prober(at)iwaynet.net 3/19/02 8:23:23 AM >>>
This is from Landings......Don't know if he was flying it though..... My
condolences to family and friends.......... AL
N-number : N491T
Aircraft Serial Number : 891
Aircraft Manufacturer : TRENTI MARIO FRANK
Model : RV-4
Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING Model : 0-320 SERIES
Aircraft Year : 1991
Owner Name : TRENTI MARIO F
Owner Address : PO BOX 546 JACUMBA, CA, 91934-0546
Registration Date : 30-Oct-1990
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built
>
>IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
> Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Destroyed
>
>LOCATION
> City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
>
>DESCRIPTION
> EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED BY
> FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | breakway stick - was Pre-Flight Briefings |
> Yes indeed. After one old timer in the back seat of my -8 almost tore the
> wings off the plane by hamfisting the stick,
It would be interesting, and probably not too hard to build some type of
break-away function into the rear stick. Perhaps some type of plastic link in
the rear stick that would quickly fail in the event that the pilot and passenger
got themselves into some kind of arm wrestle at 200 kts.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Cessna wrinkle paint |
Bob,
We powder coated our panel a textured gray and it looks great.
Patty Gillies
RV-6
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Subject: RV-List: Cessna wrinkle paint
Hi Folks,
Could anyone tell me a where I can get the grey wrinkle paint that
Cessna uses on the panels of their new 172/182/206's? I'm sure it'd be
three times the cost if I ordered it from Cessna.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360CS flying 275 hours
building F1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Hi all...
I need to get some new hinge pins for my flaps... Can someone tell me
the diameter of the pin? I forgot to bring one with me today... I am
going to get some SS pins from the local welding supply house...
The reason I am getting new pins is that the original method I planned
to use will not work: http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wings5.htm, the
aileron bracket hit the pin and doesn't allow full travel...
So now I am going to remove an eye in the middle of the flap hinge and
use two pins that go out from the center... The tails of the pins will
be bent in such a way that they will hook into holes in the flap brace
to hold them in place...
I have seen pictures of this installation, but can't remember where...
If you know where these pictures are, please post them here for others
to see...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Hinge Pins |
That's cause you don't pay attention to anything I do or say.
http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/Flaps/DCP01831.JPG
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: Rv-List ; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com ; Rv8list@Egroups
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:34 AM
Subject: [rv8list] Hinge Pins
Hi all...
I need to get some new hinge pins for my flaps... Can someone tell me
the diameter of the pin? I forgot to bring one with me today... I am
going to get some SS pins from the local welding supply house...
The reason I am getting new pins is that the original method I planned
to use will not work: http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wings5.htm, the
aileron bracket hit the pin and doesn't allow full travel...
So now I am going to remove an eye in the middle of the flap hinge and
use two pins that go out from the center... The tails of the pins
will
be bent in such a way that they will hook into holes in the flap brace
to hold them in place...
I have seen pictures of this installation, but can't remember where...
If you know where these pictures are, please post them here for others
to see...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
ADVERTISEMENT
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage |
I had installed my S-tec servo under the left hand step panel of my RV3.
This was done when the wings were off for its modification. Had managed to
attach the torque tube directly to the bolt at the control stick. Snug fit
but it worked perfectly for some 4 years. Unfortunately don't have any
pictures and I have recently removed it to install it in the 8 I'm building.
Sure preferred the simple torque tube set-up then the cable nightmare that
is recommended for the 8.
Michel 81117
RV-3 C-GGRV 1,100 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard D. Fogerson
Subject: RV-List: Navaid in RV 3, Order Motor Mount with Fuselage
Hi Everyone,
I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone installed a Navaid in an RV 3? I'm just wondering if it
can be installed under the seat like it can be with the larger kits.
2) I thought it might be a good idea to get the motor mount with the
fuselage kit since I have heard some stories of people having
misalignments with the holes that come in the firewall and the mount
when they get it later in the finish kit. Van's doesn't think it's
necessary and it would be an extra $860 now rather than later. Any
opinions out there?
Thanks
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage soon (yeehaw!)
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
Bill,
I leave mine unpinned and the PTT switch is on the panel. That way I can take
it out at a seconds notice and beat my passenger with it in case they start acting
up.....Of course I don't tell them it's removable in case they want to beat
me with it after some "adventurous manoeuvre" they didn't appreciate.
Laird
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Mar 19, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings
What are you guys using to install the rear or pax sticks? Bolts, or
pins or what?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings
>
>
>Good thoughts, Ken. This is a real safety issue, and I hope everyone
>reads and heeds your guidance.
>
Yes indeed. After one old timer in the back seat of my -8 almost tore
the
wings off the plane by hamfisting the stick, I have since conducted all
dual
flights/rides as if they no NOTHING about airplanes. They do not
approach
the airplane for the flight without me being right next to them. They
do
not get in without me telling them exactly how to do so. I strap them
in,
show them what they can and cannot touch, and how the flight will be
conducted. They do not insert the stick (which is stowed in broomstick
clips on the seat back) to fly until I say so, and they follow me
through on
some turns while being cautioned as to the sensitivity of the controls.
This is especially emphasized for pitch inputs, with the more aft CG
when
flying dual. When they are flying the airplane, my hand is very close
to
the stick, to arrest any sudden inputs. This has worked well so far.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
N-number : N491T
Aircraft Serial Number : 891
Aircraft Manufacturer : TRENTI MARIO FRANK
Model : RV-4
Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING
Model : 0-320 SERIES
Aircraft Year : 1991
Owner Name : TRENTI MARIO F
Owner Address : PO BOX 546
JACUMBA, CA, 91934-0546
Registration Date : 30-Oct-1990
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: anyone has more info?
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED BY
FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
> >Good thoughts, Ken. This is a real safety issue, and I hope everyone
>reads
> >and heeds your guidance.
I used to like carrying passengers but after some unpleasant and/or
eyeopening experiences, that we all chance into, I've stopped asking people
if they want to ride. If I'm asked and the asker fits the right profile,
then it's OK with me. Sometimes I think I might as well have a single seater
now. A couple more experiences to add to those already given.
I keep my passenger stick & headset out of the plane except when needed. My
headset is plugged into the Pilot side of the intercom. I hand the passenger
(who's flown many times with me) their headset and plug it into the
intercom. I then get everything situated, crank up, taxi out & call Ground.
My radio is very garbbled, they say. After sitting there forever it seemed
swapping wires, radio checks, etc. I then realized my passenger put on my
headset, not the one I handed to 'em. They both look alike.
Another time I had my passenger seated and I reached over to fasten their
seatbelt. As I pulled it tight, he freaked out. Got a bad case of
closterphobia. He almost ripped of my rollbar fairing trying to get out.
Good thing I was sitting on the ground in front of my hangar.
Another time I had had just started some 3D flight about 20 miles south. A
steep turn, a wingover, then a barrel roll. Then, I had no problem telling
that my passenger had banana pancakes for breakfast a little earlier.
Another time I had a former fighter pilot in the right seat. I asked what
manuever would he do if he had someone trying to shoot his tail off. He
showed me. He pulled 6 g's continously throughout a barrel roll. Fortunately
we are both 140 pounders & only half fuel on board. No problems with the
airframe. At least now I know the RV-6 is a capable 2 person aerobatic
machine. But if I knew before hand I would be testing the airframe beyond
previous limits, I'd be wearing my parachute.
I'm almost positive my next project will be a single seater.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 320 hrs Melbourne, FL
Do Not Achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Hinge Pins |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
This is not the picture I was referring to... What I am talking about
it taking the tails that you have bent to 90 degrees and keeping them
longer so they can hook into the flap brace holes to secure them...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] Hinge Pins
That's cause you don't pay attention to anything I do or say.
http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/Flaps/DCP01831.JPG
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
you should've waited for the 8qb kit and built it. You just put the people
baggagge in the back with a bag and ignore them until the wheels are "back
in the chalks" at the end of the flight.
lucky
a sometimes rick caldwell passenger and real slow RV-8A builder :-)
>From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings
>Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:59:28 +0000
>
>
> > >Good thoughts, Ken. This is a real safety issue, and I hope everyone
> >reads
> > >and heeds your guidance.
>
>
>I used to like carrying passengers but after some unpleasant and/or
>eyeopening experiences, that we all chance into, I've stopped asking people
>if they want to ride. If I'm asked and the asker fits the right profile,
>then it's OK with me. Sometimes I think I might as well have a single
>seater
>now. A couple more experiences to add to those already given.
>
>I keep my passenger stick & headset out of the plane except when needed. My
>headset is plugged into the Pilot side of the intercom. I hand the
>passenger
>(who's flown many times with me) their headset and plug it into the
>intercom. I then get everything situated, crank up, taxi out & call Ground.
>My radio is very garbbled, they say. After sitting there forever it seemed
>swapping wires, radio checks, etc. I then realized my passenger put on my
>headset, not the one I handed to 'em. They both look alike.
>
>Another time I had my passenger seated and I reached over to fasten their
>seatbelt. As I pulled it tight, he freaked out. Got a bad case of
>closterphobia. He almost ripped of my rollbar fairing trying to get out.
>Good thing I was sitting on the ground in front of my hangar.
>
>Another time I had had just started some 3D flight about 20 miles south. A
>steep turn, a wingover, then a barrel roll. Then, I had no problem telling
>that my passenger had banana pancakes for breakfast a little earlier.
>
>Another time I had a former fighter pilot in the right seat. I asked what
>manuever would he do if he had someone trying to shoot his tail off. He
>showed me. He pulled 6 g's continously throughout a barrel roll.
>Fortunately
>we are both 140 pounders & only half fuel on board. No problems with the
>airframe. At least now I know the RV-6 is a capable 2 person aerobatic
>machine. But if I knew before hand I would be testing the airframe beyond
>previous limits, I'd be wearing my parachute.
>
>I'm almost positive my next project will be a single seater.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 320 hrs Melbourne, FL
>Do Not Achive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 construction speed |
>
> > The new tail was completed yesterday after about 10 hours of very easy
>work.
> > Only had to drill out one rivet.
>
>10 hours? For crying out loud! I know I'm not Mr. Speedy, but I think
>I had around 200 hours on my RV-6 tail. I know, it should have been less
>than that, but still....
>
Joe the 10 hours max was on the VS alone. My CPA practice is in my home and
I don't start until 9AM. My son gets on the bus at 7:30 so I have about an
hour in the morning to piddle. A little time at lunch and about 1.5 hrs in
the evening. With this sch. I will have the HS done this weekend and start
on the control surfaces. I am truly not rushing it. I have the HS skeleton
clecoed together now. I'll take it apart this evening and start deburring.
I'll cleco it back together probably Friday and rivet over the weekend.
Everything, and I mean everything (that is except for the HS405 & 406) is
predrilled perfectly. I spend most of my time deburring, that is the truth.
They just started shipping the totally pre punched emps in January. I'm
figuring less than 50 hours to do the entire emp., and that is with a lot of
head scratching.
I've been a little leary of posting this:-), for fear of retaliation but
what the heck:-).
Three weeks, part time work and you will have the new "slow build" emp.
together.
You can see the 10 hours of work at the bottom of the emp. page listed
below. You can also see a shot of the pre drilled ribs.
Ordered my wings today!! I'm sure it will slow down here pretty soon. Life
in the slow lane!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp.
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/project.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel labeling questions |
Just curious. What are you folks who are using crinkle type finishes on your
instrument panel using to label your switches, etc.? A related question; I
have seen some really nice engraved strips (plastic I think) that mount under
a row of switches but I was never able to find out how or where they were
made. Anybody out there know of a source for these things?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crotch Strap Mount |
Does anyone know of a web site with picture's showing how the crotch strap
anchors where installed?
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator pressure Limits |
Hi Guys (& gals),
I just pressure tested my new plumbing for my IO-320 boost pump from
"Airflow Performance" (cost $508.58 O.T.D.). The pump went to almost 50 PSI
when I first flipped it on and blew out my rubber seal on my gascolator (the
one I bought from Van's). Other folks have told me that Van's gascolator
could/would support the boost pumps up to about 40-50 PSI. Anyone with any
comments, suggestions, humorous remarks... ? Yes, I will probably cough-up
the bucks and buy an AnAir gascolator (anyone got one for sale/re-sale?), if
I have too... But I was tryin' to save up for the Christen inverted oil
system (anyone got one of these for cheap?). I called "Don" at Airflow
Performance and he said their boost pump should normalize at about 30 PSI
and he even commented that Van's gascolator should work okay, "Other guys
have used them...". Okay, I'll take my replies "off-air". Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
>
>My hats off to any of you guys who actually will give somebody a ride in
>your RV. I have come to the conclusion that my 8 will probably be the first
>RV I fly in. I have walked around RVs with $100.00 bills hanging out of my
>pockets as gas money and I have indeed asked (very courteously ) for a
>trip
>around the pattern so I could actually feel what it was I was building ,
>but
>to no avail.I weigh 200 and a slim 200 at that, so the excuses about CG and
>over weight seem not to hold water. It's really OK though, everyone has the
>right to fly whomever and whenever they choose in their plane, and I do
>understand that is only through generousity that I'll get the ride. Hell, I
>even flew commercial to Lakeland to the mini fly in hopeing to catch a ride
>with no luck. I did however see some great planes and pick a few brains and
>walk the beach with the wife, so it was a good trip just the same. I
>promise
>that when I finish, the back seat of my 8 will be available to new builders
>who need some inspiration.
>
>Tom in Ky. RV 8 1012 waiting on finish kit
Tom,
200 lbs?? No problem! Get yer butt over to New Mexico and you can ride with
me anytime. Don't need $100 either. Lunch and Beer works for me.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
happy ride giver and proud of it
________________________________________________________________________________
The diagram appeared in the "AVIATOR" ....Van's publication.
regards
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator pressure Limits |
Hi Chuck,
I'm assuming you have the Airflow performance filter also?? Personally, I
would not want a gascolator in my system since I'm using the higher pressure
fuel injection.
I know this may start a war, but I'd leave the gascolator out all together.
It's just another point to induce leaks into the system. Normal systems are
picky about leaks, but the injection is even pickier about small air leaks.
Hope this helps,
Stein Bruch
P.S., Call wentworth aircraft and see if they have a Christen setup. I got
mine off a ground looped pitts for about 60% of new cost.
Subject: RV-List: Gascolator pressure Limits
Hi Guys (& gals),
I just pressure tested my new plumbing for my IO-320 boost pump from
"Airflow Performance" (cost $508.58 O.T.D.). The pump went to almost 50 PSI
when I first flipped it on and blew out my rubber seal on my gascolator (the
one I bought from Van's). Other folks have told me that Van's gascolator
could/would support the boost pumps up to about 40-50 PSI. Anyone with any
comments, suggestions, humorous remarks... ? Yes, I will probably cough-up
the bucks and buy an AnAir gascolator (anyone got one for sale/re-sale?), if
I have too... But I was tryin' to save up for the Christen inverted oil
system (anyone got one of these for cheap?). I called "Don" at Airflow
Performance and he said their boost pump should normalize at about 30 PSI
and he even commented that Van's gascolator should work okay, "Other guys
have used them...". Okay, I'll take my replies "off-air". Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator pressure Limits |
Chuck,
My Airflow Performance pump assembly was furnished with a 25 psi pressure
relief valve plumbed into it. Yours may be stuck closed, installed backwards
or somehow plumbed incorrectly. I have mine piped back to the outlet of the
fuel selector so that the fuel has a chance to cool before returning to the
pump when being bypassed. I would be concerned with damaging the injection
servo with a pressure that high.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Hi Guys (& gals),
I just pressure tested my new plumbing for my IO-320 boost pump from
"Airflow Performance" (cost $508.58 O.T.D.). The pump went to almost 50 PSI
when I first flipped it on and blew out my rubber seal on my gascolator (the
one I bought from Van's). Other folks have told me that Van's gascolator
could/would support the boost pumps up to about 40-50 PSI. Anyone with any
comments, suggestions, humorous remarks... ? Yes, I will probably cough-up
the bucks and buy an AnAir gascolator (anyone got one for sale/re-sale?), if
I have too... But I was tryin' to save up for the Christen inverted oil
system (anyone got one of these for cheap?). I called "Don" at Airflow
Performance and he said their boost pump should normalize at about 30 PSI
and he even commented that Van's gascolator should work okay, "Other guys
have used them...". Okay, I'll take my replies "off-air". Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
Tom
I have taken people up in my 6A. During my building time I did bum a
couple rides. I think what makes the guy's a little reluctant is law suite.
It's really a shame we have to pay the legal system a percentage of anything
we do. I think the MAFIA was better.
RV6A Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Maybe here: http://Bowenaero.com/pix/wings22.jpg
Not flying yet ....
-Larry
http://BowenAero.com
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hi all...
>
> I need to get some new hinge pins for my flaps... Can someone tell me
> the diameter of the pin? I forgot to bring one with me today... I am
> going to get some SS pins from the local welding supply house...
>
> The reason I am getting new pins is that the original method I planned
> to use will not work: http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wings5.htm, the
> aileron bracket hit the pin and doesn't allow full travel...
>
> So now I am going to remove an eye in the middle of the flap hinge and
> use two pins that go out from the center... The tails of the pins will
> be bent in such a way that they will hook into holes in the flap brace
> to hold them in place...
>
> I have seen pictures of this installation, but can't remember where...
> If you know where these pictures are, please post them here for others
> to see...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source |
Hi Mike:
Did you find the tubing? If not I have some on hand, let me know the length
and could put it in the mail (priority post) and you should have it in 3-4
days.
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I don't remember how I went about estimating how much of the 1/8-inch
> copper tubing I would need to plumb the primer, but I have come up 6
> inches short.
>
> I have not found any in that size at the usual places (Home Depot,
> Lowes, Hobby store) and am wondering if anyone has found an unexpected
> local-to-a-fair-sized-city source of this stuff. I've padded the
> subject line for the future because it appears from an archive search
> that others are more clever then me and haven't run into this problem.
>
> Haven't been to a small-motor shop (read lawn-mower repair) but don't
> even know if those type machines even use it.
>
> Hate to order a foot and pay their shipping and worst of all, have to
> wait!
>
> At this end of the project things get impatient, as some of you know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
Are all these reasons discussed, justification for significantly shortening the
rear stick, so the PIC has the mechanical advantage over the pax?
-Larry
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Yes indeed. After one old timer in the back seat of my -8 almost tore the
> wings off the plane by hamfisting the stick, I have since conducted all dual
> flights/rides as if they no NOTHING about airplanes. They do not approach
> the airplane for the flight without me being right next to them. They do
> not get in without me telling them exactly how to do so. I strap them in,
> show them what they can and cannot touch, and how the flight will be
> conducted. They do not insert the stick (which is stowed in broomstick
> clips on the seat back) to fly until I say so, and they follow me through on
> some turns while being cautioned as to the sensitivity of the controls.
> This is especially emphasized for pitch inputs, with the more aft CG when
> flying dual. When they are flying the airplane, my hand is very close to
> the stick, to arrest any sudden inputs. This has worked well so far.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
>
>
>Are all these reasons discussed, justification for significantly shortening
>the
>rear stick, so the PIC has the mechanical advantage over the pax?
>
>-Larry
>
>
I wouldn't recommend it. A shorter stick will only exaggerate the
"sensitivity factor" felt by an RV8 newbie. If you have to get into a tug
of war with the GIB, you made a reeallly bad choice to let him/her in there
in the first place. All ya gotta do is smack 'em on the shins to get their
attention. Aforementioned shins are usually right next to you and are prime
targets of opportunity. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone know of a web site with picture's showing how the crotch strap
anchors where installed?
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
I don't know the dia. of the hinge pin since everything is packed away.
Sorry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crotch Strap Mount |
> Does anyone know of a web site with picture's showing how the crotch strap
> anchors where installed?
>
> Cash Copeland
> Oakland, Ca
>
Here's some pictures of an installation.
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/restraints.html
Stan Blanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
Sounds like a perfect job for the canopy breaking hammer/tool... Tool,
meet shins. Shins, meet tool. Ah, now I have control again. Perfect!
(making a mental note to wear shin-guards the next time I get a ride in
the back of an RV-8... 8-)
-RB4
Brian Denk wrote:
>I wouldn't recommend it. A shorter stick will only exaggerate the
>"sensitivity factor" felt by an RV8 newbie. If you have to get into a tug
>of war with the GIB, you made a reeallly bad choice to let him/her in there
>in the first place. All ya gotta do is smack 'em on the shins to get their
>attention. Aforementioned shins are usually right next to you and are prime
>targets of opportunity. :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 construction speed |
Dana, are you drilling out the pre-punched holes, or just dimpling them
and riveting away?
-RB4
RV-7 extreme slow build... Empennage has spars & skins drilled, but no
holes in the ribs. Grrr.
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
>>>The new tail was completed yesterday after about 10 hours of very easy
>>>
>>work.
>>
>>> Only had to drill out one rivet.
>>>
>>10 hours? For crying out loud! I know I'm not Mr. Speedy, but I think
>>I had around 200 hours on my RV-6 tail. I know, it should have been less
>>than that, but still....
>>
>
>Joe the 10 hours max was on the VS alone. My CPA practice is in my home and
>I don't start until 9AM. My son gets on the bus at 7:30 so I have about an
>hour in the morning to piddle. A little time at lunch and about 1.5 hrs in
>the evening. With this sch. I will have the HS done this weekend and start
>on the control surfaces. I am truly not rushing it. I have the HS skeleton
>clecoed together now. I'll take it apart this evening and start deburring.
>I'll cleco it back together probably Friday and rivet over the weekend.
>Everything, and I mean everything (that is except for the HS405 & 406) is
>predrilled perfectly. I spend most of my time deburring, that is the truth.
> They just started shipping the totally pre punched emps in January. I'm
>figuring less than 50 hours to do the entire emp., and that is with a lot of
>head scratching.
>
>I've been a little leary of posting this:-), for fear of retaliation but
>what the heck:-).
>
>Three weeks, part time work and you will have the new "slow build" emp.
>together.
>
>You can see the 10 hours of work at the bottom of the emp. page listed
>below. You can also see a shot of the pre drilled ribs.
>
>Ordered my wings today!! I'm sure it will slow down here pretty soon. Life
>in the slow lane!!
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>7 emp.
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/project.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish kit fairings |
racker(at)rmci.net wrote:
>
>
> I dread that stuff too. Got the emp fairing from fairings-etc, gear leg
> fairings from Team Rocket (not mounted yet). Both are of great quality,
> and both companies first rate to deal with.
>
> Sam Buchanan's website has a review on the Team Rocket stuff.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Chery Max question |
Will a typical hand pop rivet puller be effective in setting the smaller
cherrymax rivets?
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Chery Max question |
In a message dated 3/19/02 7:59:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Will a typical hand pop rivet puller be effective in setting the smaller
cherrymax rivets?
Thanks, Bob >>
Yes. The pull is harder than on the simple pop rivets used in most places,
but my Wal-mart rivet puller works just fine on 'em.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 construction speed |
>From: Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca>
>Dana, are you drilling out the pre-punched holes, or just dimpling them
>and riveting away?
>
You mean I'm supposed to drill these holes again???????? Only kidding, yes
I'm drilling however, with all the ribs pre-punched and matching up, it is
very easy and quick. Just pay attention to the scheme of drilling, outboard
in or inboard out. This evening I had to clamp on the HS405 inboard rib and
drill that one (it came off the 8). It is the only rib in the emp. not
pre-punched. What a drag that one rib was:-) (ducking into my foxhole
after that comment:-).
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp.
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/project.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Bowers" <nedbowers(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Chery Max question |
Dear Bob:
Skybolt has used and sold CherryMax for 20 years. We have sold a puller
made by Cherry for quite some time, although, I am under the impression that
even it may disappear.
The best tool I have in my tool box for the 1/8 or even 5/32 dia CherryMax
is a good Craftsman puller. Even a cheap one will pull the 1/8 OK for a
short while. I beleive you will have good results with the standard blind
rivet Craftsman tool.
By the way, the CherryMax is a great product and it is structural, all of
the Q rivets and POP rivets are not. The Q rivets claim structural, but you
won't find them in any production airplane. The other problem with them is
that the stem breaks well above the head, meaning you must clip or grind
them flush. Not fun. The CherryMax breaks very clean. Just be sure that
you respect the grip range. Now the disadvantage. Be sure you are riveting
for good. Trying to drill out a CherryMax is very difficult.
Happy Riveting!
Ned Bowers, President, Skybolt Fasteners
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Chery Max question
Will a typical hand pop rivet puller be effective in setting the smaller
cherrymax rivets?
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chery Max question |
Hello Ned,
Actually drilling out a CherryMax rivet is quite easy. The trick is to use a
small diameter pin punch and drive the steel center pin out before trying to
drill the rivet.
If you intend to use Cherrymax rivets be sure to use the correct number
drill to prepare the holes. For instance the CherryMax rivets that I used
recently called for a #26 drill.
Ask the people that supply the CherryMax rivets to you to advise as to the
drill size, minimum and maximum grip lengths etc.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ned Bowers" <nedbowers(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Chery Max question
>
> Dear Bob:
>
> Skybolt has used and sold CherryMax for 20 years. We have sold a puller
> made by Cherry for quite some time, although, I am under the impression
that
> even it may disappear.
>
> The best tool I have in my tool box for the 1/8 or even 5/32 dia
CherryMax
> is a good Craftsman puller. Even a cheap one will pull the 1/8 OK for a
> short while. I beleive you will have good results with the standard blind
> rivet Craftsman tool.
>
> By the way, the CherryMax is a great product and it is structural, all
of
> the Q rivets and POP rivets are not. The Q rivets claim structural, but
you
> won't find them in any production airplane. The other problem with them
is
> that the stem breaks well above the head, meaning you must clip or grind
> them flush. Not fun. The CherryMax breaks very clean. Just be sure that
> you respect the grip range. Now the disadvantage. Be sure you are
riveting
> for good. Trying to drill out a CherryMax is very difficult.
>
> Happy Riveting!
>
> Ned Bowers, President, Skybolt Fasteners
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Chery Max question
>
>
> Will a typical hand pop rivet puller be effective in setting the smaller
> cherrymax rivets?
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers,
Doug Rozendaal used to be a regular on this list and heard I
was talking about him. :) He asked me to post the following on the RV-LIST.
As Doug is president of PetroBlend Corp. a lube oil manufacturer I would
really heed what he has to say on the subject.
-------------------------Begin post----------------------------
DO NOT use auto oil in your lycosaurus. It contains metalic detergents and
antiwear additives which will clog up your valve stems, grind up your valve
seats, and generally raise hell in your engine.
These engine see very high temps in the valve train and the additives come
apart at those temps and make nasty deposits and chemical reactions get
started that form acids and all sorts of bad things.
There were some guys working with flooded rocker boxes on lycomings. I
never heard how far they got, my guess is they had high consumption and very
greasy engines. IF (note Big IF) we could lower the temps in an engine to
some safe levels, we could add antiwear technology and increase engine life
dramatically, but I don't see lycoming doing it.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
the pink panther
& President, PetroBlend Corp. ( lube oil manufacturer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source |
Hi Mike,
Did you get some copper line? If not, give me an address and I will mail
you a foot.
Jerry Calvert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: 1/8 Inch Copper Priming Line Source
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I don't remember how I went about estimating how much of the 1/8-inch
> copper tubing I would need to plumb the primer, but I have come up 6
> inches short.
>
> I have not found any in that size at the usual places (Home Depot,
> Lowes, Hobby store) and am wondering if anyone has found an unexpected
> local-to-a-fair-sized-city source of this stuff. I've padded the
> subject line for the future because it appears from an archive search
> that others are more clever then me and haven't run into this problem.
>
> Haven't been to a small-motor shop (read lawn-mower repair) but don't
> even know if those type machines even use it.
>
> Hate to order a foot and pay their shipping and worst of all, have to
> wait!
>
> At this end of the project things get impatient, as some of you know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer overhaul? |
Try "the Yard"
they helped me with mine, I believe Avery has done it in the past too
ernie billing wrote:
>
>
> I found a Chicago Pneumatic CP214 (just like Avery's)
> squeezer on EBay for $150. Its almost in working
> order but I think it needs a re-seal. Barely squeezes
> a -3 rivet at 100PSI. Anyone around sell kits for
> this or can anyone recommend someone to send it to?
>
> Ernie Billing
> ebilling(at)yahoo.com
> RV7 - Still on HS
> San Luis Obispo, CA
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <mach25(at)swbell.net> |
Hello RV List
I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
question for you experts!
I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that the
spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
does that take?
Thanks!
Jeff Bertsch
mach25(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
What part of the world are you located?
You might be able to find a local builder to look over the plane.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <mach25(at)swbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine angle
>
> Hello RV List
> I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
> question for you experts!
> I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
> hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
> nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and
finally
> I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that
the
> spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
> the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
> bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
> mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
> does that take?
> Thanks!
> Jeff Bertsch
> mach25(at)swbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anyone has more info? |
>N-number : N491T
>Aircraft Serial Number : 891
>Aircraft Manufacturer : TRENTI MARIO FRANK
> Model : RV-4
>Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING
> Model : 0-320 SERIES
>Aircraft Year : 1991
>Owner Name : TRENTI MARIO F
>Owner Address : PO BOX 546 / JACUMBA, CA, 91934-0546
>Registration Date : 30-Oct-1990
>Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
>Approved Operations : Amateur Built
>
>
>I have no info on the cause of the accident.
>K.
The San Diego papers noted 2 fatalities and opined that the winds, which
were howling at up to 50kts in the mountains where the Jacumba airport is
located and where the accident occurred on landing, played a role in the
accident. With strong gusting crosswinds at that location, it wouldn't be
hard to imagine getting blown off the side of the runway or groundlooping,
and flipping over. The flight had departed Gillespie field in El Cajon, CA
20 minutes earlier.
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse, San Diego
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
According to a local paper, (Union Tribune), we lost one of our own last
Friday, March 15th. An RV4 out of Gillespie Field (SEE) hit the ground
and overturned catching fire alongside the small rural strip at Jacumba
- about 50 miles East of San Diego. The name(s) of pilot and owner
weren't given and no cause other than a reference to winds of 20 to 25
mph at the time. This is a SMALL strip, from memory no more than 25'
wide, and a crosswind landing in the gusty winds which are very common
in the high desert would be challenging.
If anyone has more news perhaps they would post it and let us all know.
My sympathies and best wishes to all the pilot's friends and family.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9a Fuse ordered. N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <mach25(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
Tom, I'm in the Houston, TX area. Ellington Field actually, south of Houston..
Jeff Bertsch
mach25(at)swbell.net
houston, tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crotch Strap Mount |
That other link someone posted is an old one -- the updated page that shows
my crotch strap mount is at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/interior.html
I should get rid of that old one -- the main difference in the newer one was
the merging with the rest of the interior stuff, plus some updated text that
makes note of Van's crotch strap mounts. Frankly my deal was way
over-engineered, so I'm not necessarily recommending it. But I'm leaving it
up so people can see what I did anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Jeff,
My engine sagged into alignment at about 50 hours. Aerobatic flight seemed
to do the trick.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
question for you experts!
I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that the
spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
does that take?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Hartzell Propeller For Sale (Correction).... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I corresponded a bit with Chuck Graves, the guy selling this prop. He removed
it from his Glasair I to install a Whirlwind prop instead. The Hartzell has about
200 hours since overhaul completed in '98. But it has an old hub...not only
is it not a -B hub, but it's not even an -A hub. The recent AD requires immediate
hub replacement if you do any acro at all, and if you don't do acro you're
supposed to get an eddy current inspection of the hub every 150 hours (!)
and replace the hub at next overhaul. I talked to Hartzell and American Propeller
(who overhauled this prop in '98) and they both told me not to even consider
it at this price because I'd end up paying as much or more than a new one
from Vans by the time I got the hub replaced. The only way I can see it making
sense for any RV driver is if you don't care about following the SB/AD (since
you are Experimental and not required to comply with the AD). In that case
you could save $1500 off a new Hartzell from Vans and fly it at your own risk.
I wouldn't do it though...
BTW, a couple other comments....first of all I think Chuck Graves seems like a
great guy and isn't trying to rip somebody off (for the right buyer who's willing
to do the eddy current inspections, doesn't do acro and doesn't have access
to Van's OEM prices, $3500 is probly a fair asking price considering these props
are over $9K outright from Hartzell).
Also for those of you who have an -A hub (which you probly have if you bought Hartzell's
back before April of '97 when the new -B hubs came out), Hartzell is
running a free hub replacement right now if you meet certain criteria...not sure
what they all are but one thing is it must be completed by June 30....there
may be some other criteria that makes you ineligible but I'd give Hartzell a
call asap if you have an -A hub.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A...still haven't found a deal on a C.S. prop that's better than Van's new
OEM prices....so the Sensenich continues to sit on the entertainment center in
the living room awaiting installation... : )
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: Hartzell Propeller For Sale (Correction)....
> Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
> Blades F7666A-2 (74")
> 205 hours Since Newly Overhauled July 22, 1998
> Include Spinner (Fits Glasair I but may work for RV's?)
>
> $3500.00
Does this prop have the new -B hub? If so, it's free from the AD and
SB that address hub cracking with aerobatic use.
Having just paid $1300 to upgrade mine from -A to -B hub, I'm a tad
sensitive to that issue!
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jordan" <jrjordan(at)tcinternet.net> |
I have a new e-mail address. Please update me in your records.
New address:
jrjordan(at)mn.rr.com
Old address:
jrjordan(at)tcinternet.net
Thank you.
John Jordan
952-937-6233
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 91 Msgs - 03/19/02
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
>From: Jeff Bertsch <mach25(at)swbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Engine angle
>Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:03:10 -0600
>
>
>Hello RV List
>I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
>question for you experts!
>I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
>hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
>nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
>I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that the
>spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
>the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
>bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
>mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
>does that take?
>Thanks!
>Jeff Bertsch
>mach25(at)swbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
(Don't
>hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
>nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
>I'm fortunate enough to have found one.)
This is not an engine answer, but Jeff and I are on a Bonanza list together
and recongnized names betweent he two lists. If we could persuade him to
post a few pictures of is airplane (beautiful paint, HSI.........the list
goes on), you would be impressed.
If not, I have a couple shots and will throw them out there.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp.
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/danas_airplane_factory/project.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
In a message dated 3/19/02 11:03:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mach25(at)swbell.net writes:
<< Hello RV List
I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
question for you experts!
I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that the
spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
the bottom. >>
Believe it or not, the spinner backplate to cowling difference is greater at
the bottom on many RV's. I don't know if Van makes his molds that way
intentionally or not, but it does make the bottom cowl (at least on my RV-6)
slightly easier to remove and reattach than if the gap was as small at the
bottom as it is at the top.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
No offense to the sender, but this passage:
It would be interesting, and probably not too hard to build some type of
break-away function into the rear stick. Perhaps some type of plastic link
in the rear stick that would quickly fail in the event that the pilot and
passenger got themselves into some kind of arm wrestle at 200 kts.
is something we need to try to avoid. Adding hardware and complexity to
take the place of common sense. I've heard a lot of good ideas in this
thread. Things I hadn't thought of, that I will incorporate into my
preflight and inflight briefing.
One thing that I hadn't heard , that I do if I am going to let the passenger
try a hand at flying the plane is to slow it down to well below maneuvering
speed. I don't want to get into a debate about what maneuvering speed
REALLY is, but the bottom line is that at 130mph, its pretty darned near
impossible to rip the wings off. That way if the pax ham fists it in the
worst way we don't die. This is precisely how, it was finally determined,
Vans lost their RV-8 demonstrator.
One other thought, while they're following me on the stick, I ask them if
they've ever ridden a motorcycle. A fair number of them will reply that
yes, they have. If yes, then I ask them to remember how, once at speed, you
steer the motorcycle more with PRESSURE on the bars, than with MOVEMENT.
Most will get it pretty quick. In this way, most non-pilots have an easier
time adapting to an RV than those who are used to the huge control movements
necessary to fly a Cessna or Piper.
Blue Skys
Don Mei
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MacInnes, Bruce" <bmacinnes(at)skipbarber.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Charging system problem...Bad news. |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MacInnes, Bruce
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:03 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: Charging system problem...Bad news.
>
> A curious anominaly has developed in the electrical system of my RV-4. On
> cold start-up my volt-meter pegs itself (over 19 volts) and the amp meter
> reads 20A. I switch off the alternator, fly for 10 minuets, then turn it
> back on and all is ok. I am very careful to not operate any radios or
> accessories unless the system is charging properly. My local ignition shop
> feels it might be a bad ground somewhere in the system... Any ideas?
>
> I just read of the fatal RV-4 (N-491T) crash on March 15th in Jacumba,
> Ca. Does anyone know the cause of this accident? My sympathy goes out to
> the family of the pilot.
>
> Bruce MacInnes- N-14FT,365 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Charging system problem...Bad news. |
Bruce:
Sounds like a classic case of a voltage regulator problem. It is telling your
alternator to go to max output and the alternator complies. If you can check
the reg separately or replace it with a known good one, that is the place to
start.
Bill Marvel
8A waiting for DAR inspection
> > A curious anominaly has developed in the electrical system of my RV-4. On
> > cold start-up my volt-meter pegs itself (over 19 volts) and the amp meter
> > reads 20A. I switch off the alternator, fly for 10 minuets, then turn it
> > back on and all is ok.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
I leave mine unpinned as well. I know the idea probably bothers some
people, but think about it - whenever someone is flying from the right seat
(unless it's someone I know is capable) my hand is never more than a few
inches away from the stick. And if someone is putting enough upward
pressure (!) on the stick to pull it out, the flight will most likely smooth
out from removing the PIO's.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I leave mine unpinned and the PTT switch is on the panel. That way I can
take it out at a seconds notice and beat my passenger with it in case they
start acting up.....Of course I don't tell them it's removable in case they
want to beat me with it after some "adventurous manoeuvre" they didn't
appreciate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PAX briefing |
All,
A couple of items:
1. Our rear seat stick is consideribly shorter than the front stick and we
always stay on the stick.
2. We also keep the speed below Va when our guest is flying and remind them
to use pressure rather than movements.
Safe flying and Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Nianitc, CT)
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: pinholes pinhole fiberglass prep FRP |
pinholes pinhole fiberglass prep holes paint prep painting fairings FRP
(search keywords) for future e-searching of Matt's archives
Filling pinholes in Fiberglass
Austin, get some K36 from the local ppg dealer. Reduce it a bit with MEK
and just pour it ahead of a squeegee. Just trowl the thing as you go.
Then
when it drys do an initial sand with about 180 grit and your pinhole
problems will be gone. I learned this from a guy who de-pinholed an
entire
Thunder Mustang in about 8 hours, the conventional way would have taken
weeks.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-Flight Passenger Briefings |
I know exactly how you feel Tom. Eight years ago when I was building my 6A
there where only a few flying RV's in the area. I gently let each of the
owners know that I would love to go for a very short ride just to know what
I was getting into. Lots of head-nodding, and "sure, one of these days"
answers. It became obvious that they weren't interested, and I didn't push
it. I also understand completely. A lot of effort, blood, money, and
liability goes along with building an airplane and offering someone a ride
in it.
Then there is the other side. When I was a month or so away from my first
flight, I scheduled some time with Mike Seager. I had remembered that Jerry
Springer lived near there, and I sent him an Email letting him know that I
was going to be in the area for a couple of days and that I'd like to get
together and chat if he had the time. I called him after I arrived in
Portland and when he found out that I had not been able to get a ride in an
RV he was almost outraged. I told him I was getting checked out with Mike
the next day and it wasn't a problem, but he wouldn't have any of it and
insisted that I meet him at his hangar immediately. After a wonderful ride
he then insisted on taking my wife up as well. I will never forget the
generosity and "RV spirit" that I got from Jerry that day. Thanks Jerry.
Having said that, I'm very cautious about giving rides. When your insurance
policy only covers passengers to the tune of $100k, you are flying naked
financially. As has been posted on this thread, there are riders that
inadvertently, or through stupidity, damage your airplane or risk the safety
of the flight.
I will always, without question, happily, go out of my way to give a ride to
anyone that is building an RV and has never been in one, or needs a
motivational ride to get out of a building rut. Anyone in this category
generally has the right attitude about flying in general, and flying in an
RV in particular. I have a couple of friends that have an "RV mentality"
that can go with me anytime I have a spare seat (strangely, most of them are
building RV's as well ). I will also give a ride to someone that I know
personally, and don't feel is a risk. I will not give rides to people that
are just looking for a free airplane ride. That may seem harsh to some, but
I've had enough bad experiences to feel it just isn't worth it.
So Tom, if you ever get out to Boise, the airplane's warmed up and ready to
go.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> My hats off to any of you guys who actually will give somebody a ride in
> your RV. I have come to the conclusion that my 8 will probably be the
first
> RV I fly in. I have walked around RVs with $100.00 bills hanging out of my
> pockets as gas money and I have indeed asked (very courteously ) for a
trip
> around the pattern so I could actually feel what it was I was building ,
but
> to no avail.I weigh 200 and a slim 200 at that, so the excuses about CG
and
> over weight seem not to hold water. It's really OK though, everyone has
the
> right to fly whomever and whenever they choose in their plane, and I do
> understand that is only through generousity that I'll get the ride. Hell,
I
> even flew commercial to Lakeland to the mini fly in hopeing to catch a
ride
> with no luck. I did however see some great planes and pick a few brains
and
> walk the beach with the wife, so it was a good trip just the same. I
promise
> that when I finish, the back seat of my 8 will be available to new
builders
> who need some inspiration.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
It is mostly a matter of appearance. When in doubt, I put the
manufactured head where it will be seen and/or possibly scraped against
by the people in and outside the plane.
Regards
Vince Himsl
RV8-canoe
Moscow, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: VS-808PP |
I used the 'fly type' sold by Avery. But use it in a drill press. It
does a pretty good job as the center drill bit holds the piece on
center.
I did the lightening holes in the beginning but later started judging
the weight saving (or lack thereof) with the work involved on the
smaller pieces and opted not to drill the holes in some cases.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - Canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
In a message dated 3/19/2002 8:03:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mach25(at)swbell.net writes:
> Hello RV List
> I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
> question for you experts!
> I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
> hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
> nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and finally
>
> I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that the
>
> spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
> the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
> bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
> mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
> does that take?
> Thanks!
>
The reason you have a larger gap on the bottom of your cowl than on the top
is when you go to remove the bottom cowl you need the space to get the cowl
off and clear the spinner backplate, where as the top cowl can be lifted
straight up.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Graves" <cgraves(at)secor.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Hartzell Propeller For Sale (Correction).... |
More info...I just got quotes for Eddy Current inspection ($300.00) and the
hub does not have to be replaced at overhaul...that only applies to -A hubs
which this is not. Basically, if you're not not going to do acro then
it wouldn't make sense to replace the hub unless you plan on keeping the
airplane for over 10 years. ($3100.00 for hub replacement).
-Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: FW: Hartzell Propeller For Sale (Correction)....
I corresponded a bit with Chuck Graves, the guy selling this prop. He
removed it from his Glasair I to install a Whirlwind prop instead. The
Hartzell has about 200 hours since overhaul completed in '98. But it has an
old hub...not only is it not a -B hub, but it's not even an -A hub. The
recent AD requires immediate hub replacement if you do any acro at all, and
if you don't do acro you're supposed to get an eddy current inspection of
the hub every 150 hours (!) and replace the hub at next overhaul. I talked
to Hartzell and American Propeller (who overhauled this prop in '98) and
they both told me not to even consider it at this price because I'd end up
paying as much or more than a new one from Vans by the time I got the hub
replaced. The only way I can see it making sense for any RV driver is if
you don't care about following the SB/AD (since you are Experimental and not
required to comply with the AD). In that case you could save $1500 off a
new Hartzell from Vans !
and fly it at your own risk. I wouldn't do it though...
BTW, a couple other comments....first of all I think Chuck Graves seems like
a great guy and isn't trying to rip somebody off (for the right buyer who's
willing to do the eddy current inspections, doesn't do acro and doesn't have
access to Van's OEM prices, $3500 is probly a fair asking price considering
these props are over $9K outright from Hartzell).
Also for those of you who have an -A hub (which you probly have if you
bought Hartzell's back before April of '97 when the new -B hubs came out),
Hartzell is running a free hub replacement right now if you meet certain
criteria...not sure what they all are but one thing is it must be completed
by June 30....there may be some other criteria that makes you ineligible but
I'd give Hartzell a call asap if you have an -A hub.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A...still haven't found a deal on a C.S. prop that's better than Van's
new OEM prices....so the Sensenich continues to sit on the entertainment
center in the living room awaiting installation... : )
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: Hartzell Propeller For Sale (Correction)....
> Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
> Blades F7666A-2 (74")
> 205 hours Since Newly Overhauled July 22, 1998
> Include Spinner (Fits Glasair I but may work for RV's?)
>
> $3500.00
Does this prop have the new -B hub? If so, it's free from the AD and
SB that address hub cracking with aerobatic use.
Having just paid $1300 to upgrade mine from -A to -B hub, I'm a tad
sensitive to that issue!
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Flap Motor - Need Info... |
RV-Listers,
Would someone be so kind as to forward me some information on the flap
motor Van's uses? As I recall, the manufacture had a web page on the specs
for the unit. I need a similar functionality for a different project, but
I suspect that the stock unit from Van's won't have enough power. I know
that the company makes larger versions with various throws. If anyone
happens to have the name of the company and/or the web site address I would
be forever grateful.
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
I talked with my prop shop today about my prop that has no "A" or "B"
suffix. He stated that this AD does not apply to my prop and that I could
make that entry in the log book. He said that RV's are not considered
aerobatic in regards to this AD. He had a reference list of aircraft
that the AD applied to and RV's were not on the list.
It would be good if someone could verify this with another prop shop.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, almost ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Flap Motor - Need Info... |
Matt,
My -8 flap motor is from Motion Systems Corporation in Eatontown, NJ. The
web site is:http://www.motionsystem.com/
I believe Van is using a different souce now.
Regards,
-Don
Rv8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Flap Motor - Need Info... |
Motion Systems refuses to sell to any aviation application.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv8don(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Flap Motor - Need Info...
Matt,
My -8 flap motor is from Motion Systems Corporation in Eatontown, NJ. The
web site is:http://www.motionsystem.com/
I believe Van is using a different souce now.
Regards,
-Don
Rv8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator pressure Limits |
Why "off air" ? Some of us would like to know if this set up will in fact
work.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gascolator pressure Limits
>
> Hi Guys (& gals),
>
> I just pressure tested my new plumbing for my IO-320 boost pump from
> "Airflow Performance" (cost $508.58 O.T.D.). The pump went to almost 50
PSI
> when I first flipped it on and blew out my rubber seal on my gascolator
(the
> one I bought from Van's). Other folks have told me that Van's gascolator
> could/would support the boost pumps up to about 40-50 PSI. Anyone with
any
> comments, suggestions, humorous remarks... ? Yes, I will probably
cough-up
> the bucks and buy an AnAir gascolator (anyone got one for sale/re-sale?),
if
> I have too... But I was tryin' to save up for the Christen inverted oil
> system (anyone got one of these for cheap?). I called "Don" at Airflow
> Performance and he said their boost pump should normalize at about 30 PSI
> and he even commented that Van's gascolator should work okay, "Other guys
> have used them...". Okay, I'll take my replies "off-air". Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Van's Flap Motor - Need Info... |
Matt,
The website for this is:
http://www.motionsystem.com/
Greg Puckett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Ask for some high build primer/filler . I think Dupont is URO, I got a
gallon of Europrime from the dupont store that was $65.00
Lay it on & sand it off.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> Hi Listers,
> I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all
> my
> fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the
> appearance of
> pinholes in the S cowl....
> Until you shoot a prime on it, it is just not visible as to how
> porous it
> looks.
> GAWD, it looks just like screen mesh for a screen door....I know my
> primer
> ain't going to fill that..have you seen the same ?
> What is the best remedy to fill before thinking about top color ?
> I did try some superfill and epoxy over part of it but the results
> were not
> too great and it is very labor intensive for such a big area....what
> have
> you guys done ??
> Any input appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Austin
> Vancouver.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
> Austin, get some K36 from the local ppg dealer. Reduce it a bit with MEK
> and just pour it ahead of a squeegee. Just trowl the thing as you go. Then
> when it drys do an initial sand with about 180 grit and your pinhole
> problems will be gone. I learned this from a guy who de-pinholed an entire
> Thunder Mustang in about 8 hours, the conventional way would have taken
> weeks.
K38 replaced K36, works even better.
Randy Lervold
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Flap Motor - Need Info... |
Not surprising... lots of vendors won't sell to a company in or freshly out
of bankruptcy.
Greg
>
>
> Motion Systems will no longer sell to Glasair (Stoddard-Hamilton)
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
I have some Claus Savier wheelpants I'm working on right now. I tried the experment
at lunch today using K36 both thinned and unthinned. I found the unthinned
mix worked better.
Laird
RV-6 (speed upgrade work in progress)
> Austin, get some K36 from the local ppg dealer. Reduce it a bit with MEK
> and just pour it ahead of a squeegee. Just trowl the thing as you go. Then
> when it drys do an initial sand with about 180 grit and your pinhole
> problems will be gone. I learned this from a guy who de-pinholed an entire
> Thunder Mustang in about 8 hours, the conventional way would have taken
> weeks.
K38 replaced K36, works even better.
Randy Lervold
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
Need to prep my fiberglass. Sounds like you guys are onto a good thing. What
is and where do you get K-36/K-38? What is PPG?
Thanks, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Both should be available (K36 and K38) . . . however, I think the K38 is
about twice the price of K36.
Rick Jory RV8A
>
> K38 replaced K36, works even better.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net> |
Is anyone willing to part with their tools? If no one has any, which company
should I go to buy a new set? A few people say Avery is the one, but it
seems that they are much more expensive. Is it worth it? Is it easy to sell
the tools once you are done?
Thanks,
Mark
RV7 tail - 0% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Matt, we have a problem |
Matt, Looks like we have a problem child on the list. How can we eliminate
it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Matt,
Undoubtedly you've seen the message below. I am familiar with the
individual who was banned from the "other" list, and why. It was very
justified. I urge you to send him a kind warning not to use your list as a
sounding board for personal problems with other people, he needs to take
this stuff offline.
Additionaly, the profanity used below has no place in this group and is
unnaceptable. The high level of professionalism on this list is what makes
it great. We simply do not need people who degrade the rest of the members.
Keep up the good work! Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis.
-------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clifford Dow
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Welcome Cliff.... if....
--> RV7-List message posted by: Clifford Dow
Don't get smart and bossy with me Jerry or i'll have
to slap you silly!!!!
not much when it comes to being told what do my
friend.
I'm a pround member of the Matronics list and on a
mission to harrass that list that ban me -ban me for
freaking life - what's up with that!!!!! - that little
prick son of a bitch dirt bag sum sucking jerk face
maget scum sucking ying yang!!!!!!!!! Control Freak!!!
cliff dow jr
cdowjr(at)yahoo.com
PS Oh yah did I call you a control freak!!!!!!!!! yah
doug - you!!!!!!!!!
--- Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>
> Dear Cliff...
>
> You should realize that lots of RV builders like
> myself are members of more
> than one list, so are fully aware of the problems
> that got you bounced from
> Doug's list. If I remember correctly, you were only
> bounced after multiple
> warnings, so have only yourself to blame. I think
> you have a lot to
> contribute to this list and your enthusiasm for RV's
> is unquestioned. And as
> long as you stay on subject, which is the
> furtherance of the enjoyment we all
> share with our projects, I have little doubt you
> will be welcomed by all.
> Let's avoid the subjects that offended many on
> Doug's list. Hope you take
> this in the constructive spirit it was meant, and
> best to you.
>
> Sincerely,
> Jerry Cochran
> Wilsonville, OR
> RV6a 50% done, 90% to go....
>
> In a message dated 3/19/02 11:54:38 PM,
> rv7-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << Im building an RV-7A QB in Maine. I succeeded in
> getting myself ban for
> life from Doug Reeves Vansaircraft.NET builders chat
> group for chatting too
> much & off the topic postings. Whatever happened to
> freedom of speech? Not
> only am I ban for life from posting but I cannot
> even read the archives as
> non-members are able to do on this matronics site.
> >>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Positive GA/Custom Built Story |
Here's a link to a good, positive story about homebuilders .....whoops...Custom
Builders and why we build these things in a local paper here in Southern California.
Just happens that the stars of the piece are Paul and Victoria Rosales. (How do
they get SO much press? I guess I need to fire my press agent......)
Regardless of who's the star is, it's great to see some postive press on GA and
Homebuilding. Thought you all might enjoy it.
See:
http://www.avpress.com/
If you don't see it, click on:
http://www.avpress.com/n/indexwe.hts
Regards,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
And that K36 ain't cheap....
BTW, they're PPG products.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Mar 20, 2002 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pinholes
Both should be available (K36 and K38) . . . however, I think the K38 is
about twice the price of K36.
Rick Jory RV8A
>
> K38 replaced K36, works even better.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
>
>
> I talked with my prop shop today about my prop that has no "A" or "B"
> suffix. He stated that this AD does not apply to my prop and that I
> could make that entry in the log book. He said that RV's are not
> considered aerobatic in regards to this AD. He had a reference list
> of aircraft that the AD applied to and RV's were not on the list.
See the attached from John Popel, Hartzell Product Support:
From: Ryan, Kevin
Subject: FW: Service bulletin HC-SB-61-227
Guys:
Here was my answer to the RV guy. A brilliant piece of work, if I do
say so myself.
Kevin
Mark:
You essentially have two issues here. The first is "is a homebuilt
aircraft subject to an AD?" The second is "If I determine that my
homebuilt aircraft is subject to an AD, am I subject to this one?"
I have an opinion on the first issue, and solid info on the second. Lets
look at the first issue first - is a homebuilt aircraft subject to
an AD? I believe that a homebuilt aircraft using a type certified
propeller and engine are subject to airworthiness directives affecting
those type certified components. I do not know what the FAA's
position is on this subject, but am making an effort to find out. I do
know one thing, that even if you are not subject to the law of the land,
you are still subject to the laws of physics. In other words, if
an propeller is showing a problem on a type certified aircraft, using a
type certified engine, and you are operating said
engine/propeller on your aircraft, I would think seriously about
complying with the AD, whether I was required to by law or not.
The second question is a little easier to answer. The AD in question
(2001-23-08) affects certain aircraft, such as PA-32's,
Britten-Norman's, etc. It also affects any aircraft operated as an
agricultural aircraft, or as an aerobatic aircraft. Your RV-8 is not a
PA-32, or an Islander, and I am certain it is not being used for
agricultural purposes, so the only way this AD would apply to you
is if it is aerobatic. The FAA defines what and what is not an aerobatic
aircraft as follows (this is right from the FAR's):
Sec. 23.3
Airplane categories.
(a) The normal category is limited to airplanes that have a seating
configuration, excluding pilot seats, of nine or less, a maximum
certificated takeoff of 12,500 pounds or less, and intended for
nonacrobatic operation. Nonacrobatic operation includes:
(1) Any maneuver incident to normal flying;
(2) Stalls (except whip stalls); and
(3) Lazy eights, chandelles, and steep turns, in which the angle of
bank is not more than 60 degrees.
(b) The utility category is limited to airplanes that have a seating
configuration, excluding pilot seats, of nine or less, a maximum
certificated takeoff weight of 12,500 pounds or less, and intended for
limited acrobatic operation. Airplanes certificated in the utility
category may be used in any of the operations covered under
paragraph (a) of this section and in limited acrobatic operations.
Limited acrobatic operation includes:
(1) Spins (if approved for the particular type of airplane); and
(2) Lazy eights, chandelles, and steep turns, or similar maneuvers, in
which the angle of bank is more than 60 degrees but not
more than 90 degrees.
(c) The acrobatic category is limited to airplanes that have a seating
configuration, excluding pilot seats, of nine or less, a
maximum certificated takeoff weight of 12,500 pounds or less, and
intended for use without restrictions, other than those shown to
be necessary as a result of required flight tests.
In other words, if you are performing any maneuvers other than
normal flying; stalls (not including whip stalls); Lazy eights;
chandelles; steep turns or similar maneuvers, in which the angle of
bank is not more than 90 degrees; and spins, you are
operating an aerobatic aircraft. If you don't perform these maneuvers,
you are not operating an aerobatic aircraft. If you are
performing aerobatic maneuvers (as defined), you are operating an
aerobatic aircraft.
If you are not operating aerobatic aircraft, you are not affected by the
AD. If you are, I would suggest you look into the regs, or talk
to the EAA and/or FAA about your requirements to conform with
AD's.
I hope this answers your questions. If it doesn't (or raises even more
questions), write me back.
Kevin M. Ryan
Hartzell Product Support.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Steffensen [mailto:steffco1(at)home.com]
Subject: Service bulletin HC-SB-61-227
Sir,
I have a Hartzell model HC-C2YK-1B in my Van's RV8A.
The engine & propeller came from a 67 Mooney E.
Engine is a IO-360A1A the serial number for the propeller is CH358.
In reviewing the Service Bulletin, I do not believe that my propeller is
effected by this AD.
Can you please confirm this.
I have 200 hours on the propeller since a overhaul.
Please advise.
Thanks....Mark
Mark Steffensen
520 Saginaw Ct.
Allen, TX 75013
972 359-0423
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
mark
if you tell bob avery you are on this list and ask for your 10% off, his
prices suddenly become the best out of all. i did a very good comparison on
Excell spreadsheet a few years ago when i was gearing up to buy my tools. at
1st glance Averys were more expensive, but since i got the 10 % off, it
brought his prices better or the same as everyone else. not knowing how the
other tool vendors operate, but i have never had a problem with their
deliveries, service, etc.... by the way ,Bob helps Vans out at the fly ins. i
know this 1st hand as for at sun n fun a few years ago when Bill & Jeremy,
didn't make it to the show, Bob Avery, his crew, George & Becky Orndolf, and
a few of us local builders jumped in to help set up their tent and displays.
i support those who support our community.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
he even gave me a discount on replacing all my tools when he found out they
got stolen. he earned my buisness
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Mark,
I don't know where your looking for tools but, for just about
everything I've needed Bob Avery has had it and at generally a better
price than say U.S. Industrial or Cleveland and others.
It's like the old saying, "you get what you pay for". Don't skimp on
the tools man... you'll end up fighting the task and hating your project
in the end. You do need to do a little shopping though. As an example,
I 've seen cleco's go for as much as $6.00 each and as low as .35 to .40
each (Avery)
The shop pretty much uses Snap-On for just about everything other than
specialized aircraft. You want expensive, compare a Snap-On pneumatic
squeezer at almost 3 grand to Avery's 214 knock off at $500.00. Cost is
not always the driving force. Avery's squeezer is all that the Snap-On
one is except it's not all polished and chromed.
I'm not trying to do a commercial for Avery but, Bob and his folks have
really done a great job of putting together "Builder kits" with the
minimum tools need to work on a specific project. Sure, you may get
some of the consumables cheaper locally but when it comes down to the
actual tools, IMHO, I think their hard to beat.
Just don't go looking for the cheapest. Go for the best bang for the
buck.
seeing 426AD3-XX in my sleep now...
Jim Duckett, N708JD RV-7a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Engine choice gone |
We'll today was the most frusterating day in my RV building career. After
searching for an engine for over 1 year I found the one of my dreams. The
AEIO-360 B4A with 81 hrs SMOH. Unfortunately the owner just sold it from
under my nose after agreeing that it was mine. Its amazing what money will
do to people (hes not a RV guy). Next week I'll talk to a lawyer and sue for
reinbursement of phone calls and research time.
In the meantime back to the fuselage with my chin up.
Anybody have an engine? Just kidding!
Steve
RV-7A
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/20/2002 5:24:02 PM Central Standard Time,
mantenbring(at)slcl.net writes:
>
> Is anyone willing to part with their tools? If no one has any, which
> company
> should I go to buy a new set? A few people say Avery is the one, but it
> seems that they are much more expensive. Is it worth it? Is it easy to sell
> the tools once you are done?
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
bestquality tools brown avery and cleaveland. Brown is cheapest avery
most expensive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine angle |
Jeff, sounds like you're really describing "thrust angle", and it is
important to how your plane flies. The good news is that it is fairly easy
to check. I did a fair amount of research on this while building my RV-8.
You can see what I learned on my web site at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Engine.htm
Blue skies,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 152 hrs.
> Hello RV List
> I have been reading the list for a few weeks and finally have my first
> question for you experts!
> I recently bought an almost new RV-4 -- only 60 hours total time. (Don't
> hold it against me that I did not build it myself. I've wanted an RV for
> nearly 14 years and knew that I could never build one myself -- and
finally
> I'm fortunate enough to have found one.) Anyway... I've noticed that
the
> spinner backplate is much closer to the cowling at the top than it is at
> the bottom. It appears that the engine & prop are canted up just a little
> bit. Why is this? I've been told it is built that way and as the engine
> mounts "settle" the engine will drop down straight. True? If so how long
> does that take?
> Thanks!
> Jeff Bertsch
> mach25(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)attbi.com> |
Listers,
I have a Vision Microsystems VM1000 for sale with the optional
temperature OAT/CAT gauge.
CAT can be carb. temp or if you have fuel injection you can use it for
cabin air temperature.
The unit has less than 10 hrs on it and has been checked out by the
factory and a new 15 yr.
battery installed within the past 2 weeks. This is a complete system
with all sensors and thermocouples included.
The current prices at ACS are $3145 for the VM1000 unit and $285 for the
optional temp.
monitor for at total of $3430.
I understand there is quite a lead time from the factory on these units.
I will sell for $2700 and include free overnight shipping.
If you are interested, please contact me personally at
edwardmcole(at)attbi.com
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
does anyone know anything about ed sturber propellers? it was off an rv6 with
an o-320. pitch is 70x72. would this be good for an rv4 with an 0-320 lyc.
thanks
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre built fuel tanks. |
Mark, Would that also be true with a pre punched kit? Seems like maybe it
would be inherently fixed.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Slider
Finishing forever and ever. This summer I keep telling myself
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
Dana, I had Evan do my tanks and although I haven't flown or put gasoline in
them yet, the workmanship appears to be quite good. Having said this, if I
had to do it all again, I'd build the tanks myself. Why? Because they will
fit your wing spar and skins perfectly. Evan, and anyone else in the tank
building business, uses a standard jig to build the tanks and that jig will
not be the same as your wing. Yes, it's messy (so I hear!) and takes more
time, but I think you'll end up with the best fit possible that way.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Dear Scott,
Thanks for sharing your great experience with Avery Tools. It's very
valuable to many of us who are shopping for fair tool prices.
Thanks again,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: need tools
>
> mark
> if you tell bob avery you are on this list and ask for your 10% off, his
> prices suddenly become the best out of all. i did a very good comparison
on
> Excell spreadsheet a few years ago when i was gearing up to buy my tools.
at
> 1st glance Averys were more expensive, but since i got the 10 % off, it
> brought his prices better or the same as everyone else. not knowing how
the
> other tool vendors operate, but i have never had a problem with their
> deliveries, service, etc.... by the way ,Bob helps Vans out at the fly
ins. i
> know this 1st hand as for at sun n fun a few years ago when Bill & Jeremy,
> didn't make it to the show, Bob Avery, his crew, George & Becky Orndolf,
and
> a few of us local builders jumped in to help set up their tent and
displays.
> i support those who support our community.
> hope this helps
> scott
> tampa
> he even gave me a discount on replacing all my tools when he found out
they
> got stolen. he earned my buisness
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Under-seat Navaid Install for 6/7/9 |
In a message dated 3/19/02 11:57:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
<< Does anyone have photos of the "between the ribs" underseat Navaid
installation discussed here a few months ago? >>
I called Navaid about a year ago and they sent me photos of an under seat
install on an RV-6 and instructions provided to them by several builders. I
used these to design my own installation to suit.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Austin,
Like a few others have recommended, use a production primer (like DuPont
Chroma-Prime) and glaze the area with a polyester glaze. we use a
product called "Icing" made by USC. It mixes like filler but, is very
thin-bodied. Block sand the area back down below the final primer base,
lightly re-prime and final sand for your finish.
Due to the texture and finish of most fiberglas/ gel coats, we "Ice"
everything in the manner I described. Just priming over will "bridge"
instead of fill the pinholes and eventually will cause blemishes in the
finish because of captured moisture in the pinholes.
As with all work but especially with glas, be sure to use a good cleaner
between tasks. Like DuPont Final Kleen or similar. For God's sake,
don't use Coleman fuel or something like I've seen on here before.
If your still in dought, ask your local PBE supplier for some
recommendations.
Jim Duckett, N708JD
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chery Max question |
In a message dated 3/19/02 4:59:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Will a typical hand pop rivet puller be effective in setting the smaller
cherrymax rivets? >>
My hand puller has worked fine for up to and including 5/32 CherryMax.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice gone |
Steve,
Could you wait a little before hiring your lawyer (or "Attorney", that's how
fancy lawyers want to be addressed)?
Let me sign up for Law School early tomorrow morning to help you. Honestly,
I mean it! I do offer to represent you, but not on a contingency, but rather
$/hr spent, once done with law school!! That will become some of the best
and easiest money I ever made.
But we all know you were just joking about hiring a willing lawyer! Oh well,
farewell my imaginary easy-cash.
Too bad it didn't work out, but let go, as the other guy does not stand to
his word (or probably any other commitment he makes for this matter).
Sorry for your lost opportunity though.
I know it hurts, it just hurts.
Konrad
ABQ-NM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine choice gone
>
> We'll today was the most frusterating day in my RV building career. After
> searching for an engine for over 1 year I found the one of my dreams. The
> AEIO-360 B4A with 81 hrs SMOH. Unfortunately the owner just sold it from
> under my nose after agreeing that it was mine. Its amazing what money will
> do to people (hes not a RV guy). Next week I'll talk to a lawyer and sue
for
> reinbursement of phone calls and research time.
>
> In the meantime back to the fuselage with my chin up.
>
> Anybody have an engine? Just kidding!
> Steve
> RV-7A
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: propeller |
Hi Dan;
I had an Ed Sterba 68X72 prop on my RV4 for 4 years.
I have a 150HP 0-320 Rose IGN and I climbed at 1200
fpm at 2350/2000 msl, cruised at 150 knots at 2575 and
max speed of 170 knots at 3k/2800 rpm. It was easy to
repair, handled rain well within Ed's 2200 rpm
retsriction and gave me 500 hours of good service in
everything from FL grass to ID gravel for a price of
$450. Excellent service.
I now run a Craig Catto composite.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone know anything about ed sturber
> propellers? it was off an rv6 with
> an o-320. pitch is 70x72. would this be good for an
> rv4 with an 0-320 lyc.
>
> thanks
> dan carley
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://movies.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Benzer" <TerryBenzer(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
Is it helpful to use the fuel tank dimple dies when building the fuel tanks?
Pros,Cons? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre built fuel tanks. |
Since I don't have a matched hole kit, I can't say for sure, but I'd think
it would reduce the variation tremendously. Still, I'd think there'd be
some difference from one builder to another...JMHO.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre built fuel tanks.
>
> Mark, Would that also be true with a pre punched kit? Seems like maybe it
> would be inherently fixed.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Slider
> Finishing forever and ever. This summer I keep telling myself
> N616TB
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
>
> Dana, I had Evan do my tanks and although I haven't flown or put gasoline
in
> them yet, the workmanship appears to be quite good. Having said this, if I
> had to do it all again, I'd build the tanks myself. Why? Because they will
> fit your wing spar and skins perfectly. Evan, and anyone else in the tank
> building business, uses a standard jig to build the tanks and that jig
will
> not be the same as your wing. Yes, it's messy (so I hear!) and takes more
> time, but I think you'll end up with the best fit possible that way.
>
> Mark
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
Terry Benzer wrote:
>
>
> Is it helpful to use the fuel tank dimple dies when building the fuel tanks?
> Pros,Cons? Thanks
Yes. All pros, no cons.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tankdies.html
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
Although I did use the tank dies, I did not make a comparison. I can now see
they are advantageous due to the proseal. I have found from experienced 2X
builders that they STRONGLY advise on using the tank dies. Hey, what the
heck, what's $30 bucks when you going to end up spending THOUSANDS?
Bob in Arkansas finishing wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
In a message dated 03/20/2002 9:39:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
TerryBenzer(at)prodigy.net writes:
> Is it helpful to use the fuel tank dimple dies when building the fuel tanks?
> Pros,Cons? Thanks
Terry,
I used the set from Cleaveland. They worked well for me.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4 Scrounging up $
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
On Wed, 20 Mar 2002, Terry Benzer wrote:
>
> Is it helpful to use the fuel tank dimple dies when building the fuel tanks?
> Pros,Cons? Thanks
>
I will let you know next week. I bought the dies. I am installing the
capacitive fuel sensors right now. Taking a week off next week then it is
on to dimpling using the tank dimple dies and then the dreaded proseal.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
N14SE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slippery stuff |
Dear Dave,
Please take no offense to my naive questions earlier, but they are still
somewhat unanswered.
So does this fisherman's friend:
A: "Get financially compensated" for his services to be a fishspotter, at
which time, to the best of my limited (non fish!) knowledge, he does in fact
need to have a commercial license, and his aircraft may need some Part "xxx"
certification?
B: In your original post below, you state that this one of my "friends flies
a (certificated Cessna) 172" in his endeavors to look for the big fish?
Don't get me wrong, I don't care what this person put's in his engine on
whatever mission s/he flies! I don't care, if s/he flies for cash without
the appropriate ticket. However, I DO CARE about giving people the wrong
idea on what could, or better yet, what should not be done to the typical
airplane engine without knowing ALL the fact's available to make an educated
decision on their well being?
Now that I hopefully clearly explained my reasons, I ask you this question:
"Is this fish-spotting pilot" your actual friend (like quoted in the first
post), or rather just some second hand story from someone else you just
heard somewhere (as stated in the second post).
The truth may save someone a few bucks on an oil change OR save lives in a
preventable enginefailure to a non-mechanically inclined pilot! YOUR CALL!
BTW: Did you read Doug Rozendaal's response? If not, let me know, and I'll
dig it back up and mail it to you!
Like I said, no offense to you, and please, prove me wrong with verifiable
facts?
Sincerely,
Konrad Werner / ABQ-NM
BTW: What was or is the benefit of running Castrol 20W50 vs. Aeroshell
etc.?
It can't be the small difference in the amount of money? So what is ??
*
*
>
> Konrad, you're assuming quite a bit about fish spotting operations here.
> This is second hand info (from a local fish spotter) but I'm told that
they do
> NOT have to be commercial rated or fly certified aircraft for fish
spotting
> operations. In fact, he's building his own airplane specifically for fish
> spotting and yes, he has checked with the Feds. Of course if he IS flying
a
> certified plane than he'd have to follow the rules...
>
> Dave
*
*
> >
> > > To counter someone's remarks: One of my friends flies a 172 off the VA
> > coast doing fish spotting and has used Castrol 20W50 and auto gas in his
> > 3000 HOUR 0-320 with no ill effects, burning 1 qt per 7 hours. In fact,
he
> > has worn out 5 engines in 24,000 hours of fish spotting so I think he
might
> > have a clue. I'm sure alot of the problems would be related to FAA/PMA
and
> > other Fed bureaucracy. It's nice to ask why rather than blindly
following
> > OLD TRENDS....
> >
> > My two cents worth:
> > A commercial pilot I assume, flying in a stringent Part 135 operation,
with
> > a certificated Airframe (Cessna 172) and the mighty fine Castrol 20W50
> > AUTO-OIL? And he does care about having an Auto-Gas STC for his
> > (commercially used) Airframe/Engine Combo, right?
> > By saying he flew 3000 hrs. with the engine, does that mean that this
fellow
> > flew it for 3000 hrs. without the mandatory overhaul (again, P.135?) at
2000
> > hrs.?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre built fuel tanks. |
> Did you guys hear that, Jim Sears called me a $%
@#$%. I just may
> have to hop in the Bonanza, fly to the next airport west
and...............go
> have lunch with Jim and talk RV's:-) (don't worry gang, I hate to admit it
> but I know Jim).
That's funny. They'll have no idea what you're talking about. I don't put
everything on the list, like some people seem to do these days. I sent my
note directly to you. :-) The list is growing way too fast with junk
talk. Could be done off line and keep down our messages. That's why mine
went directly to you. I was kidding with you and saw that it didn't need to
be on the list. I'm getting over 100 per day just from the list. That's
about double what I used to get. I'm going to wear out the delete key. :-)
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
>
>
>I talked with my prop shop today about my prop that has no "A" or "B"
>suffix. He stated that this AD does not apply to my prop and that I could
>make that entry in the log book. He said that RV's are not considered
>aerobatic in regards to this AD. He had a reference list of aircraft
>that the AD applied to and RV's were not on the list.
>
RVs won't be on the list of aircraft in the AD because RVs are not
type certificated aircraft. However the laws of physics don't
distinguish between homebuilts and type certificated aircraft, so we
should only ignore ADs if we are prepared to experience the type of
failure they are trying to prevent.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Message for Kevin Horton |
>
>Hello Kevin
> I tried to have a look at your project tonight and everytime I got
>a message saying"Could not open page", trying your web site address thru
>Van's site ended with the same results.
> Have you change your web site' address??
> I've been monitoring your progress from the start and I'll like to
>know when you're gonna fly this thing.You also have some very good links on
>your site.
>
>So Kevin,don't let us in the dark..lol
>
>Bruno Dionne
Eccentrix, my free web page hoster, has been a bit up and down
lately. High speed internet finally became available out in the
sticks where we are, so I've just got a new ISP. My web page is now
mirrored at:
<http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html>
I'm not sure yet which location will be the most reliable.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Mark . . . you'll get a number of different opinions on this. I think
Avery, Cleaveland, Brown are excellent companies for tools. The only
differentiator I'd share is that the Avery hand squeezer, IMHO, is better
than the Tatco (I've owned both and sold the Tatco). I ended up with a
Sioux "palm drill" and like its small size/weight. Anyway, good luck,
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net>
Subject: RV-List: need tools
>
> Is anyone willing to part with their tools? If no one has any, which
company
> should I go to buy a new set? A few people say Avery is the one, but it
> seems that they are much more expensive. Is it worth it? Is it easy to
sell
> the tools once you are done?
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> RV7 tail - 0% complete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Mario was a very nice old gentleman, His hangar was directly behind mine at
SEE Sky Harbor. I have no details as to accident. He was very familiar with
area as he landed there often. Was high wind day is all I know so far.
Scuttlebutt is the plane hit upright, skipped and flipped before engaging in
fire.
He was a quiet type so many folks probably never met him. He came by to
check progress on my plane often, never staying long enough to be a
disruption, but he really loved flying. Although he was not very active
locally he will be missed at our corner of the airport.
If I find out more I'll post it.
W
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: anyone has more info?
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 491T Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-1991 RV-4
Date: 03/15/2002 Time: 2145
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: JACUMBA State: CA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED BY
FIRE, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, JACUMBA, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: first flight insurance |
hi guys
that is what guys we have left on this list, i was wondering when do i
purchase insurance on my rv. i think the builders risk policy covers the 1st
flight (s). can i just call and get a binder after the 1st flight? do i have
to prepurchase a policy?
john helms, wanta step in and inform me.
thanks
scott
tampa
getting ready for inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight insurance |
Builders Risk coverages DO NOT cover first flight... they are GROUND NOT IN
MOTION coverages. Ground not in motion is just like it sounds.... it would
not cover you while taxiing the aircraft.
However, transitioning a Builders risk to an in-motion policy takes a phone
call. (to save you and I the headache and heartache of not getting it done
on your cell phone while waiting to crank her up, try to call me as soon as
you know the day you would potentially move the airplane under its own
power.)
I recommend that if you are going to taxi it in a couple of days, give me a
call. As I indicated above, this is best as I am usually swamped with phone
calls (like all good brokers are) and you may have to leave a message. My
suggestion would be to leave a detailed message like "I need to switch to in
motion coverage on xx/xx date." This will move your message to the top of
the list.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: first flight insurance
hi guys
that is what guys we have left on this list, i was wondering when do i
purchase insurance on my rv. i think the builders risk policy covers the 1st
flight (s). can i just call and get a binder after the 1st flight? do i have
to prepurchase a policy?
john helms, wanta step in and inform me.
thanks
scott
tampa
getting ready for inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety and operating costs |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety and operating costs
> Hi Marty:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <emrath(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 7:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety and operating costs
>
>
> > Eustace, While I'm using FI and no primer is needed, I think your
readers
> > would find it helpful to know the following:
> >
> > 1. Did you "T" into the supply line from the Gascolator to the
mechanical
> > fuel pump and,
>
> No the fuel supply was taken from the plug in the top of the gascolator.
>
> > 2. are you priming more than one cylinder since you indicate "T" into
the
> > "primer lines" on the back of the engine and,
>
> Yes I primed three cylinders and the fouth was used for manifold pressure.
>
> > 3. is there one 3" loop at the solenoid and at the "T" into the primer
> > lines?
>
> The loops (probably more like 2 1/2 inches) were side by side between the
> solonoid and the back baffle.
>
> When I switched to fuel injection the gascolator went into the wing root,
> for two reasons.One to make it more accesable for draining and cooler, the
> other to avoid having it pressured up by putting the boost pump down
stream
> from the gascolator.
>
> Eustace
>
>
> > Marty in Brentwood TN
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> > To: "rv list"
> > Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 10:36 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Safety and operating costs
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Following the discussion on primers, associated problems and the need
> > > for them I would like to throw in my two cents worth.
> > >
> > > When I built my RV 6 I started out with a carburated engine and when
the
> > > time came to address the primer question it wasn't a question of
> > > should I install one but what was the best way to do it. I don't want
to
> > > keep this discussion going but the need for a primer I guess varies
> > > with the conditions one is operating in and the expertise of the
> > > individual,and to certain extent the condition of the aircraft.
> > >
> > > In my case I am in a cool climate and although as I have mentioned I
> > > preheat for the first start anytime the temperature is below freezing
it
> > > still needs priming to start.The reason I preheat even at the freezing
> > > point is to save the wear and tear on the starter and battery and to
> > > keep the oil pressure down a bit on start up. Priming with the
throttle
> > > in the right conditions and done properly works well but some day when
> > > the temperatures are down and the battery or starter is just not right
> > > up to snuff and maybe a mag is in need of some attention you get a
> > > backfire and you will have a fire. I have seen several over the years
in
> > > two instances the aircraft where destroyed.
> > >
> > > My priorities when installing the primer were simplicity and a
accurate
> > > way to get the right amount of prime as well as a safe installation.
At
> > > that time my gascolator was firewall mounted on the lower left. To use
a
> > > plunger type would mean a lot of plumbing and more firewall
> > > penetrations. A electric solenoid mounted on the firewall with a six
> > > inch run of flexible firesleeved #3 line to the gascolator and a
spring
> > > loaded switch to off made a tidy installation. From the solenoid to
the
> > > tee on the primer lines on the back of the engine was 1/8 copper with
a
> > > double three inch loop.
> > >
> > > This virtually eliminates any possibly of having any fuel leaked into
> > > the engine compartment in flight. It wouldn't matter if the copper
line
> > > broke the solenoid would be closed preventing and fuel from leaking.
> > >
> > > To prime with this system is boost pump on, primer on and count 1234
or
> > > whatever is required.
> > >
> > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Wiring and fiberglass fairings 6A.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
RVs won't be on the list of aircraft in the AD because RVs are not
type certificated aircraft. However the laws of physics don't
distinguish between homebuilts and type certificated aircraft, so we
should only ignore ADs if we are prepared to experience the type of
failure they are trying to prevent.
--
Kevin,
I could not agree with you more. I was passing along my experience with my
prop shop as information only, to be used in addressing the compliance with
regulations/AD's, etc.
The more pressing question is: how much risk am I taking by doing RV type
aerobatics with this prop? Is the risk so great that I should replace the
hub($$$), or is an eddy current inspection every 150 hours, as required by
the AD, adequate? I don't know these answers and would appreciate the
opinions of other, more knowledgeable members of the List.
Tim Lewis, thanks for posting the comments by Kevin Ryan from Hartzell.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, almost ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice gone |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
If I were you I would rejoice.
Would you really have rather bought a Lycoming engine from a (slightly)
dishonest person?? Not Me.
You are far better off having found out he is a liar, than to have gained a
questionable engine.
> From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:11:09 -0700
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine choice gone
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Could you wait a little before hiring your lawyer (or "Attorney", that's how
> fancy lawyers want to be addressed)?
> Let me sign up for Law School early tomorrow morning to help you. Honestly,
> I mean it! I do offer to represent you, but not on a contingency, but rather
> $/hr spent, once done with law school!! That will become some of the best
> and easiest money I ever made.
> But we all know you were just joking about hiring a willing lawyer! Oh well,
> farewell my imaginary easy-cash.
>
> Too bad it didn't work out, but let go, as the other guy does not stand to
> his word (or probably any other commitment he makes for this matter).
> Sorry for your lost opportunity though.
> I know it hurts, it just hurts.
>
> Konrad
> ABQ-NM
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: Engine choice gone
>
>
>>
>> We'll today was the most frusterating day in my RV building career. After
>> searching for an engine for over 1 year I found the one of my dreams. The
>> AEIO-360 B4A with 81 hrs SMOH. Unfortunately the owner just sold it from
>> under my nose after agreeing that it was mine. Its amazing what money will
>> do to people (hes not a RV guy). Next week I'll talk to a lawyer and sue
> for
>> reinbursement of phone calls and research time.
>>
>> In the meantime back to the fuselage with my chin up.
>>
>> Anybody have an engine? Just kidding!
>> Steve
>> RV-7A
>>
>>
>> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator pressure Limits |
Chris,
My pressure settled down to about 28 PSI after running it plugged after
the mechanical pump (per "Don" at Airflow Performance's recommendation to
let it "normalize"). I replaced the rubber seal in the gascolator and it
"SEEMS" to be holding. I might dump the gascolator all together (I do have
the Airflow Performance in-line filter prior to the boost pump).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: C J Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator pressure Limits
>
> Chuck,
>
> My Airflow Performance pump assembly was furnished with a 25 psi pressure
> relief valve plumbed into it. Yours may be stuck closed, installed
backwards
> or somehow plumbed incorrectly. I have mine piped back to the outlet of
the
> fuel selector so that the fuel has a chance to cool before returning to
the
> pump when being bypassed. I would be concerned with damaging the injection
> servo with a pressure that high.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Hi Guys (& gals),
>
> I just pressure tested my new plumbing for my IO-320 boost pump from
> "Airflow Performance" (cost $508.58 O.T.D.). The pump went to almost 50
PSI
> when I first flipped it on and blew out my rubber seal on my gascolator
(the
> one I bought from Van's). Other folks have told me that Van's gascolator
> could/would support the boost pumps up to about 40-50 PSI. Anyone with
any
> comments, suggestions, humorous remarks... ? Yes, I will probably
cough-up
> the bucks and buy an AnAir gascolator (anyone got one for sale/re-sale?),
if
> I have too... But I was tryin' to save up for the Christen inverted oil
> system (anyone got one of these for cheap?). I called "Don" at Airflow
> Performance and he said their boost pump should normalize at about 30 PSI
> and he even commented that Van's gascolator should work okay, "Other guys
> have used them...". Okay, I'll take my replies "off-air". Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
| Subject: | Hartzell prop for sale on eBay |
I don't know if this is good for anybody but it sure looks like it's
nice.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1712850348
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
Hi All,
I have a hartzell prop with the Rev. A hub from a HR2 for my HR2. When I
talked to Hartzell, I was told that, since it came off of an aerobatic
airplane, and is going onto an aerobatic airplane, it qualified for the free
hub replacement. (However, it needs to go through a prop shop for an
overhaul to get the free hub.)
My prop is in the prop shop now. I'll post the results when I get the prop
back in a couple weeks.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine
RV-4 with Harmon mod kit :-) IO-540-C4B5 with Monty Barrett mod kit :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
A recent Rvator had an article on prepping the cowling for paint. Sorry I
can't remember the exact issue or process but perhaps it will jog somone's
memory who might have their Rvator handy. I can summarize when I get home
if no one beats me to it. It did talk specifically about filling pinholes
on the S cowl.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Austin [mailto:6430(at)axion.net]
Subject: RV-List: Pinholes
Hi Listers,
I spent 4 hours yesterday shooting primer on all my
fibreglass parts and was blown away..no pun intended...at the appearance of
pinholes in the S cowl....
Until you shoot a prime on it, it is just not visible as to how porous it
looks.
GAWD, it looks just like screen mesh for a screen door....I know my primer
ain't going to fill that..have you seen the same ?
What is the best remedy to fill before thinking about top color ?
I did try some superfill and epoxy over part of it but the results were not
too great and it is very labor intensive for such a big area....what have
you guys done ??
Any input appreciated.
Thanks,
Austin
Vancouver.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Hartzell Propeller AD Info |
Ken,
As I understand the physics of the situation, the extra stress on the prop
would be from gyroscopic forces in maneuvers like snap rolls. I don't
intend to snap my RV-8, so the easy answer would be to forget it. On the
other hand, a spin would put the same kind of forces on the prop, and RV's
are known to be fast spinners. I don't think I'll be doing many spins, but
a spin is always possible when doing aerobatics.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 Finishing wings
----- Original Message -----
>
>
> The more pressing question is: how much risk am I taking by doing RV type
> aerobatics with this prop? Is the risk so great that I should replace the
> hub($$$), or is an eddy current inspection every 150 hours, as required by
> the AD, adequate? I don't know these answers and would appreciate the
> opinions of other, more knowledgeable members of the List.
>
> Tim Lewis, thanks for posting the comments by Kevin Ryan from Hartzell.
>
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, almost ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 88 Msgs - 03/20/02 |
I dunno -- most of those lightening holes are behind the CG, and RVs
tend to have problems bumping into the aft limits. Dropping even a
few ounces off the tail is probably worth a lot more than a few pounds
up front.
-Joe
> I did the lightening holes in the beginning but later started judging
> the weight saving (or lack thereof) with the work involved on the
> smaller pieces and opted not to drill the holes in some cases.
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| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
I did some quick calculations on the VS-808PP and came up with a weight
savings of about 3 ounces. It doesn't seem like much, but that far aft
it might make a difference especially on a plane with electric elevator
trim and rudder nav light(like mine).
Ken
I dunno -- most of those lightening holes are behind the CG, and RVs
tend to have problems bumping into the aft limits. Dropping even a
few ounces off the tail is probably worth a lot more than a few pounds
up front.
-Joe
> I did the lightening holes in the beginning but later started judging
> the weight saving (or lack thereof) with the work involved on the
> smaller pieces and opted not to drill the holes in some cases.
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| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi listers,
Does anyone know if a Form 8130 applies to secondhand aircraft parts bought
from Ebay for export from the US?
Marcel
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| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
> I did some quick calculations on the VS-808PP and came up with a weight
> savings of about 3 ounces. It doesn't seem like much, but that far aft
> it might make a difference especially on a plane with electric elevator
> trim and rudder nav light(like mine).
It still won't make that much difference. I have manual trim, which is
really heavy due to the cable going to the back. I also have the tail light
and a strobe back there. I have my ELT and strobe power pack behind the
baggage compartment bulkhead. I didn't cut out any holes, like that. If
you have a metal prop, especially constant speed, you're going to offset
quite a bit of weight at the rear. The battery's being moved forward into
the engine compartment will not hurt things, either. I even have a light
weight starter in mine. The CG is in good shape. Of course, I do have the
nose gear; but, I also have the O320 150hp engine that may take off some of
that. Personally, I'd accept the extra strength and not do the holes. Even
with the tandem seating, I'm betting you have plenty of CG range.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
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| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
"aeroelectric-list"
| Subject: | Electrical shop tools - good price on solder gun & heat gun |
Just burned out my 2nd Archer (Radio Shack) 100 watt solder gun. Wasn't
heating 16 gage wire very fast (would melt solder but not heat the wires
very fast) - kept it on way too long and eventuall something inside went
"poof" and smoked.
Did search on internet and found Weller brand, Model 8200 100/150 watt
solder gun for $27.50 ($32.50 in kit with extra parts) at www.elexp.com
(Electronics Express), 1-800-972-2225, 8:30-5 Eastern. Also ordered their
Taiwanese RD7346B 600/1000 watt heat gun for heat shrink for $34.50.
- Shipping will be $10 or less.
Other web site prices for the Weller 8200 were $31.50 ($36.77 for kit) at
www.unionel.com; ($39.99 for kit at Tools Plus www.tools-plus.com in CT);
$38.38 ($44.70 for kit) at action-electronics.com in Santa Ana, CA.
David Carter
RV-6 QB Tail lights
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| Subject: | Condition inspection checklist |
The time for my very first condition inspection is fast approaching. There
have been several references over the years to condition inspection
checklists various builders have developed. Thinking that was a lifetime
away I frankly didn't pay much attention to the topic -- yikes, now I need
one. Can anyone point me to examples of a well developed checklist for an
RV? I know we should comply with a certain section of the FARs (don't have
March 17, 2002 - March 21, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mo