RV-Archive.digest.vol-mq
March 27, 2002 - April 06, 2002
Many of you have provided excellent discussion points on hiring a
professional test pilot. Based on our eperience last August there a couple
issues that you should probably check into first:
1. Does your insurance carrier allow it - ours wanted the builder to fly the
first flight. I would also assume that the test pilot would need to be a
named insured/pilot on your insurance policy.
2. Check with your insurance agent/compamy regarding coverage if there is an
accident. The minor issue is your aircraft - The major issue is liability
coverage (you are the manufacturer) if the test pilot is injured or worst.
Safe Flying,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | steel and plastic gas cans |
>>>>>>>How about a metal insert (sleeve) in the neck of the can, grounded to
airplane,
of course.<<<<<<<<< DON'T BOTHER!
>>>>>>>>>>Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: Per MIL-STD-1686 and Electronics 101,
grounding an insulator (common Polyethylene gas can) is ineffective at
reducing the static charge.>>>>>>>>>>
Gary had the best response to this thread. In case you missed it... there
isn't anyway to get rid of the static on a plastic can. They never
should've been approved... but neither should cigarettes! :-O
So, here's a realistic option for those who need a gas can. Order a few
from
www.sportsmansguide.com 1-800-888-3006
part number DX2X-52225, 5 gallon steel jerry can, $12.97. If you want a
fancy flexible spout it's p/n DX2X-13473 for $6.97.
So you can put 30 gallons in your RV, you'll need 6 cans. My calculator
tells me (here we go again!) that you can get 6 cans, 1 spout, pay the
shipping and still get change back from your $100 dollar bill. That's cheap
insurance, if you ask me... particularly by Avemco standards!
Ground the can to the airframe with a battery jumper cable or whatever
before fueling.
There you go. If you're a big chicken like me you'll order a few and
consider it money well spent for piece of mind. (Well, I would order them
if I didn't already have a STEEL 80 gallon tank in the back of my truck.
Even better.)
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved.... almost to the canoe stage
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve McCartney <rv3flyr(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Incorrect airspeed readings |
My RV-3 is indicating about 30 mph fast on the A/S indicator, noticed
after flying formation with several other airplanes, and appears to be
consistent at all indicated airspeeds. The indicator itself has proven
to be accurate on the bench. The pitot probe extends from the left side
leading edge of the wing about 12", and uses a 1/4" alum tube for the
pickup. I'm wondering if the size of the tube might be critical, or the
angle of the tube relative to the wing chord, or the distance from the
leading edge, etc. The static source has not made a significant
difference in the indication, and is presently venting to the cockpit.
Anybody have any suggestions/comments? Thanks.
Steve McCartney
rv3flyr(at)attglobal.net
N2RV
Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: steel and plastic gas cans |
I read somewhere in the last several months about plastic gas cans with
embedded wires to deal with the static electricity problem. It could have
been in an aviation catalog or publication, or maybe it wasn't. If I find
it, I will post it to the list. Some manufacturer has addressed the problem.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transition Training... |
Neil,
Thanks. One unsuccessful test flight isn't much in the way of credentials
but I'll offer a couple thoughts. I think the flying/control aspect is over
emphasized. With a stick and rudder background you can adjust to the control
responsiveness in 15 minutes. What's going to kill you are systems,
specifically the fuel system. If you have any quirks, problems or concerns
don't fly. When you think everything is perfect, run it some more. You can't
have too much ground test time. I had a fresh O/H and was concerned about
minimizing ground time. I thought everything was OK before I launched but I
should have risked glazed cylinders or had the engine broken in on a test
stand. It might not have changed the result but it's my only regret.
In the air, if you have ANY kind of anomaly or concern, climb immediately
and then sort it out. I tried to use speed as a safety margin but altitude
would have been better. You might also want to pick the most beneficial
environmental conditions. A 104 deg afternoon was not the best choice.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K bought!
>
> Greg,
>
> Congratulations on finding a Navion. I appreciate your
> opinions on test
> flying/first flight especially from someone had an exciting
> one! I realize
> this may be a sensitive issue but do you have any advice for
> us on how
> not to have one like yours?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-3 oil cooler placement |
I currently have the lightweight oil cooler that Van sold a while back which
mounts in the cool air plenum area above the cylinders. I've never had any
oil temps even close to being considered high with this cooler (and I'm in
NW Florida). I has worked just fine, even in Florida summers. However, my
overhauled, formerly 150hp , O-320 engine has been "upgraded" in power and
the overhaul shop says that this cooler will be inadequate for the "new"
engine.
So, I'm looking for suggestions as to the best place to mount a Positech oil
cooler in my RV-3, specifically any pro/con as far as baffle mount vs.
firewall mount.
Since firewall space is somewhat limited, I'm leaning toward a baffle mount.
My concern here is with the baffle being strong enough to handle the oil
cooler. Also, as baffle mounting goes, I'm curious as to whether it would
be better to mount the cooler on the vertical bafle behind the #4 cylinder
or on the underside of the horizontal baffle in front of the #2 cylinder.
Any pictures the anyone could send me off-list of their installation will be
most appreciated.
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training... |
GREG
what caused the emergency landing?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Test flying your new airplane (long) |
I did all the test flying on Suzie Q, including first flight. As said,
there is nothing to compare to your new airplane leaving the ground for
the first time except, perhaps, your first solo flight. You look around
(after a period of checking systems) and your airplane is FLYING!!. Then
you realize your grip on the stick is not holding the airplane together
and you start to relax some and get on with things.
There are several milestones in your building process: putting the tail
components together in the garage and, by golly, that looks like the end
of an airplane; sliding the wings on and having them fit, even if those
parts were built so separate from each other; the shock of the engine
actually starting for the first time, etc. That first flight is the
best, however. Well, then there are the subsequent flights. And how
about that trip to Sadona, and then............
Several points about the first flight: don't do it if you don't feel
comfortable with doing it. You will eventually have to go up in it but,
maybe, getting that first flight out of the way (it DOES fly) will be
reassuring. You can probably do the first flight and do just fine, but
it doesn't discount from your place in the world if you don't.
Day of the First Flight: Don't invite the whole gang over. The fewer
people the better. Only those necessary for ground support of the flight
(radio person, camera person). That way, if things aren't right for
WHATEVER reason, you don't feel pressured to go anyway, to not
disappoint the masses. Pick your days. Ideal flying weather is best:
little wind and down the runway, cool morning, etc. Should you have a
chase plane? Only if you can arrange it without interfering with the
flight. Then they should pretty much stay well out of your way, unless
needed. You have a job to do. You don't need another distraction. Most
flights are probably done without a chase.
Plan the flight and fly the plan. Have flight cards made up so you won't
forget what you went up to do this flight. Your attention is going to be
divided. A little printed guidance is a good idea. Your first flight is
not to "wring 'er out" it's to make sure it flies, stays together, and
stalls at some reasonable speed without any freaky idiosyncratic
behavior. Then land, shake hands and pop the cork. Your new airplane has
just undergone the stresses of flight for the first time, as have you,
and one flight is enough. Inspection of the aircraft is next.
I went up with a good friend in his dash four before my first flight to
get a feel of what my new airplane was probably going to feel like. You
HAVE to fly in your type before that first flight. This ain't your
daddy's Cessna. And you should be up there to feel what the airplane is
telling you that is different from your usual ride: control movement and
pressures, where is the horizon, what does a stall feel like. Don't just
go up for a sit-in-the-back ride.
I also took the Cub up and went through my first test flight several
times just as I was going to do it in Suzie Q. That way it was a
familiar routine by the time the actual event took place, albeit
somewhat slower. I used the same airport I was going to use, departing
on both runways to get a good look at off-airport landing sites, etc. I
think that helped.
Have a plan for what-ifs: fuel leaks, fire, strange flight
characteristics, instrument failure, etc. If you are prepared for a
problem, some of the surprise is gone if/when it occurs. Have an
emergency check list but have it memorized before you go up and practice
it in the garage/hanger. You don't want to be trying to read a check
list if things go sour. Top of the list: FLY THE AIRPLANE. Your
emergency routine can be simple: left hand does these five things, right
hand does these three initally............
Speaking of the hanger, fly your airplane before you fly your airplane.
It will get you strange looks but sitting in it and "flying" it in the
hanger makes you familiar with your surroundings once you do go flying.
You should be able to reach all the controls with your eyes shut and
know where every instrument is. That way you aren't hunting if something
happens.
You should be familiar with where the horizon is on your canopy, even to
marking it with pinstripe tape, both tail up and tail down (not you -A
types). You will be making 30 degree banks and 45 degree banks in some
of your testing. Maybe that should be marked on your canopy also.
Stay current. A common problem is builders building and not flying. The
time to get current is not on your test flight, or even 2 hours before.
Finishing the finishing kit? Better go get some time in the air.
There are several sources for planning your test flights, including the
book Flight Testing Homebuild Aircraft by Vaughn Askue. It should be
part of your flying library.
Everyone will have their opinion as to how to carry on with your test
flying. The above is mine, and some of how I did it. You may not agree
with how I went about it but I planned mine and things worked fine. Plan
your own. Make sure you are ready for such a flight. Don't do it if
you're not. Most of my hours are tail wheel so there was no problem
there. I also may have more hours than the average pilot but that may or
may not make any difference. Currency may be more important. Know your
limits. Get to know your airplane. It is a fun process. The fact is,
there are many (near 3000) of these airplanes flying. As you know, there
are some out there flying that aren't put together as well as yours is.
As long as you built it straight and didn't do too much modification to
systems that most likely go bad (fuel), your first flight will be a
reason to celebrate.
You are going to love your new airplane.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Can't fly enough
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com> |
| Subject: | One more rivet question |
I would like to thank everyone who took the time to pass along their
experience regarding the rivet removal process and utilization of oops
rivets. Great stuff!
At this time I have my vertical stab skeleton clecoed together and am
looking at how best to rivet those pesky ribs where you can't just quite
get the rivet set perpendicular to the rivet head. On the HS I cheated a bit
and bent the rib back a little bit to get clearance for the gun, set the
rivet and then bent it forward. (My squeezer won't squeeze the -6 rivets)
I'm sure there is a better way.
The way I look at it my options are:
1. Use a long rivet set and angle in there and hope you do not put a smile
on the rivet
2. Use a single offset rivet set
3. Use a double offset rivet set
4. Reverse the placement of the rivet (I.E. Mfg head on the thick material,
shop head on the thin) and shoot from the other side.
To all the RVers who riveted their ribs, which of the above worked the best
for you? Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
-Mike Draper
Still working on that old, old, RV-6 tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
FWIW, below is the response from AVEMCO concerning my query about their
continuing to insure my RV (Auto Engine Powered)
Ed Anderson
Dear Mr. Anderson;
Thank you for visiting us online.
Despite what you may have heard, Avemco is still in the homebuilt market and
continuing to provide coverage for RV aircraft. Unfortunately, some of the
news accounts you have read in the last few days were just inaccurate in
their reporting.
This e-mail is to confirm that your coverage is in effect, and your policy
limits haven't changed. We will be sending you an offer to renew at the
appropriate time and look forward to meeting your insurance requirements in
the future. Additionally, please complete the pilot information form and
return it to us.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to respond to this e-mail
or don't hesitate to call us toll-free at 1-800-638-8440 and any Insurance
Counselor can assist you.
Thank you for your business, we appreciate it.
The Avemco Team
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Anderson [mailto:eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com]
Subject: RV experimental insurance
There has today been a considerable flurry on the RV e mail list that AVEMCO
will no longer insure RV type experimental aircraft. Since I just received
my policy renewal notice from AVEMCO I would like to know whether there is
any point in completing the form and sending it in. If you have decided to
discontinue insuring experimentals I would like to know as soon as possible
so I can look for coverage elsewhere. My Policy is No. 990102487004
Sincerely
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transition Training... |
Scott,
If you're not familiar with the accident, it occurred July 12 last year. I
won't rehash it here but check the following:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/gregyoung.htm
RV-List archives under "Last Flight Report"
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HoustonRVBuilders/files/N6GY/
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/houstonrvbuilders/lst?.dir=/N6GY&.src=g
r&.view=t
I don't know if the last 2 are public or not but if not you can always join
the group.
As to the cause of the engine failure, I just got the salvage back but still
don't know. Following is what I recently posted on the HoustonRVBuilders
group in response to a question.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K bought!
>
> GREG
> what caused the emergency landing?
> scott
> tampa
>
===================================================================
Vern,
The cause is still unknown although I'm leaning toward vapor lock. I picked
up the salvage last week. We got it off the trailer and started to
disassemble it this past weekend. I got the cowling off finally so I could
start checking the engine. There isn't anything obviously wrong. All the
hoses are intact although I have not removed any as yet to check for
blockage or internal flaps. There is no oil leakage and the dipstick shows
full. The prop rotates freely and had good compression when I rotated it
thru 2 blades. The only damage under the cowl was bent EGT probes from the
cowling crushing and minor dents in one intake tube and one exhaust stack
from part of the wing penetrating the left side of the cowl. Well I guess
you could count the broken engine mount around the right gear as being under
the cowl too.
I think I'm going to leave it in the "fish head" stage for a while, until
I'm ready to O/H the engine. (The salvage crew severed the fuselage just aft
of the windshield bow and a local said it looked like a fish head that was
bitten off by a larger fish.) It rests nicely on a dolly so I can move it
around in the hangar. I'm going to need to clear space to fit my "new"
Navion.
For those that like to follow their tax dollars at work, you should note
that the NTSB published their final report on my accident concluding that
the engine failed for unknown reasons. They came to this conclusion from
extensive investigation which never required them to remove the cowling. All
the camlocs were still fastened and obviously never removed. You can either
view this as a travesty and abject failure to perform their duty or as an
intelligent allocation of scarce resources... your call.
Anyone that wants to view it and form their own opinion is welcome anytime
I'm around. It's T-hangar F-6 at DWH and I'm normally out there Sat & Sun.
It's also interesting to see a wing spar bent 90 deg.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K bought!
>
> I read Greg's account of his unfortunate crash with his brand new -6.
> But I know that I, and probably others, might like to learn from his
> ordeal.
> Does anyone know what the final determination of the crash was?
> Greg's account is that he basically lost power when he turned on his
> fuel pump. But that doesn't say exactly why power was lost.
> If the boost pump didn't work, the aircraft would still have had fuel
> delivery as long as it was running.
> Did the additional boost pressure rupture a line or fitting?
> Was there some "building trash" (loose sealer, metal filings or
> whatever) in one of the tanks that mucked things up?
> Anybody have a follow up?
>
> Vern Wanzong
> RV7-A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
Well, I just got off the phone with Avemco and they said they offer
construction insurance but after that the only coverage is excluding
occupants and no hull coverage. What does that leave? Liability?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs
>
> FWIW, below is the response from AVEMCO concerning my query about their
> continuing to insure my RV (Auto Engine Powered)
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> Dear Mr. Anderson;
>
> Thank you for visiting us online.
>
> Despite what you may have heard, Avemco is still in the homebuilt market
and
> continuing to provide coverage for RV aircraft. Unfortunately, some of
the
> news accounts you have read in the last few days were just inaccurate in
> their reporting.
>
> This e-mail is to confirm that your coverage is in effect, and your policy
> limits haven't changed. We will be sending you an offer to renew at the
> appropriate time and look forward to meeting your insurance requirements
in
> the future. Additionally, please complete the pilot information form and
> return it to us.
>
> If you have any other questions, please feel free to respond to this
e-mail
> or don't hesitate to call us toll-free at 1-800-638-8440 and any Insurance
> Counselor can assist you.
>
> Thank you for your business, we appreciate it.
>
> The Avemco Team
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Anderson [mailto:eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com]
> To: avemco(at)ave.com
> Subject: RV experimental insurance
>
> There has today been a considerable flurry on the RV e mail list that
AVEMCO
> will no longer insure RV type experimental aircraft. Since I just
received
> my policy renewal notice from AVEMCO I would like to know whether there is
> any point in completing the form and sending it in. If you have decided to
> discontinue insuring experimentals I would like to know as soon as
possible
> so I can look for coverage elsewhere. My Policy is No. 990102487004
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW
> Matthews, NC
> RV-6A N494BW
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting baggage and seat floors |
I'm getting ready to rivet in the baggage and seat floors, using pop
rivets per the plans. I looked ahead and can't find anything in the
plans (or the archives) to indicate I should put this off. Is there any
good reason to put this off? This is for a -6 tip up with electric
flaps.
Jeff Point
-6 fuse, finish kit on the way
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au |
| Subject: | Wiring pinouts for Bendix King radios? |
> Hi Guys,
>
> I've inherited a problem someone out their may be able to help me with. I've
brought a couple of bits of second-hand Bendix King gear from a wreck and I didn't
get the install manuals with them. Does anyone out their have a list of the
> connector pinouts for a Bendix King KLX135A and a KY97A?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> John Morrissey
> Ph +61 2 62766811
> Fax +61 2 62766617
> Email John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring pinouts for Bendix King radios? |
John,
I've got the KLX135A GPS-COMM in my bird; the handbook & owner's manual
type stuff is at home. I'll look through to see what I can find, it's been
a long time since I played with that stuff. If you've got a fax number,
I'll fax you what I can.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One more rivet question |
>At this time I have my vertical stab skeleton clecoed together and am
>looking at how best to rivet those pesky ribs where you can't just quite
>get the rivet set perpendicular to the rivet head.
Mike,
If you are talking about those three rivets at the base of the forward spar
of the VS, I used a double offset and shot from the back using a bucking bar
with a pretty aggressive angle. My squeezer would not fit that area. Those
three look easy, but are quite a little bit tougher than you might think.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. wings ordered
http://rvflyer.tripod.com (updated the rudder page today)
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beau Walker" <aebeau(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
I too called AVEMCO and challenged them re their policy on insuring RV type
aircraft. Their response was that they had received many calls on whether
or not they have withdrawn coverage for homebuits. I was told that they
offer complete coverage for all qualified RV's except the RV3's. They have
stopped insuring some homebuilts, but not RV's. Qualification for coverage
and the premiumis determined using the normal factors such as total pilot
time, time in type, tail wheel time (if appropriate), transion training,
compliance with FAA regulations and certification, etc. I asked if the cost
was higher than what an equally qualified pilot would pay for a comparable
Certified Aircraft. The answer was no. I take that to mean that they don't
attach a penalty rate on RV's.
Perhaps it's time to cool our jets so to speak and accept the fact that
insurers manage risk by limiting the high ones and embracing the lower ones.
Qualified pilots in RV's seem to be quite ok, according to what AVEMCO
told me.
>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs
>Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:08:50 -0500
>
>
>FWIW, below is the response from AVEMCO concerning my query about their
>continuing to insure my RV (Auto Engine Powered)
>
>Ed Anderson
>
>Dear Mr. Anderson;
>
>Thank you for visiting us online.
>
>Despite what you may have heard, Avemco is still in the homebuilt market
>and
>continuing to provide coverage for RV aircraft. Unfortunately, some of the
>news accounts you have read in the last few days were just inaccurate in
>their reporting.
>
>This e-mail is to confirm that your coverage is in effect, and your policy
>limits haven't changed. We will be sending you an offer to renew at the
>appropriate time and look forward to meeting your insurance requirements in
>the future. Additionally, please complete the pilot information form and
>return it to us.
>
>If you have any other questions, please feel free to respond to this e-mail
>or don't hesitate to call us toll-free at 1-800-638-8440 and any Insurance
>Counselor can assist you.
>
>Thank you for your business, we appreciate it.
>
>The Avemco Team
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Anderson [mailto:eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com]
>To: avemco(at)ave.com
>Subject: RV experimental insurance
>
>There has today been a considerable flurry on the RV e mail list that
>AVEMCO
>will no longer insure RV type experimental aircraft. Since I just received
>my policy renewal notice from AVEMCO I would like to know whether there is
>any point in completing the form and sending it in. If you have decided to
>discontinue insuring experimentals I would like to know as soon as possible
>so I can look for coverage elsewhere. My Policy is No. 990102487004
>
>Sincerely
>
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW
>Matthews, NC
>RV-6A N494BW
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting baggage and seat floors |
I held off riveting any of the floors until all the electrical and
electronics wiring was completed. By having the floors loose I was able to
make a couple of routing changes after looking at other RV's. After the seat
floors were riveted on I stuffed some foam material between the seat floor
and belly skin to keep stuff from getting under the floor when mounting the
wings.
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV6
In a message dated 3/27/2002 3:43:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> I'm getting ready to rivet in the baggage and seat floors, using pop
> rivets per the plans. I looked ahead and can't find anything in the
> plans (or the archives) to indicate I should put this off. Is there any
> good reason to put this off? This is for a -6 tip up with electric
> flaps.
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 fuse, finish kit on the way
> Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Barrett RV-6 Firewall forward package!! |
RV-6 almost firewall forward package by Barrett. All new or 0 SMOH!
Engine: Barrett Performance Aircraft Lycoming O-360-A3A,
Serial# L-8845-36A
0 SMOH, 1900 TT, no prop strike
180HP with all yellow tags
(Certified Engine)
All AD's complied with
New slick mags and harnesses
Chromed Intake tubes and Valve
covers
Real Gaskets under valve covers
AC Fuel pump
Oil Filter
Adjustable oil pressure
Ellison Throttle Body Injector: EFS-4-5, New!
RV-6 Baffling: Installed and fitted
Prop: Hartzell Constant Speed Prop
HC-C2YK-1BF
Serial# CH 28403
0 SMOH
All AD's complied with
Prop Governor: Woodward B210681
Serial# 2001891
0 SMOH
Exhaust: Vetterman Crossover stainless steel
exhaust, RV-6, NEW
Airbox: Vans RV-6 airbox
Cowling: RV-6 Lightweight cowling
Installed, and fitted for engine and
prop
Set up for Dzus fasteners (not
included)
Scoop needs to be bonded to cowl
Only $26,999!!! Buyer responsible for delivery
I am upgrading my RV-6 project to an IO-360. Please, only serious
inquiries. Please email me any and all questions. I will provide my
phone number to serious inquiries. I will sell to the first offer to
take the entire package.
Located in Granbury, TX TX01
Jimmy Cash
Granbury, TX
jcash(at)granbury.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Barrett RV-6 firewall forward package!! |
RV-6 almost firewall forward package by Barrett. All new or 0 SMOH!
Engine: Barrett Performance Aircraft Lycoming O-360-A3A
Serial# L-8845-36A
0 SMOH, 1900 TT, no prop strike
180HP with all yellow tags
(Certified Engine)
All AD's complied with
New slick mags and harnesses
Chromed Intake tubes and Valve
covers
Real Gaskets under valve covers
AC Fuel pump
Oil Filter
Adjustable oil pressure
Ellison Throttle Body Injector: EFS-4-5, New!
RV-6 Baffling: Installed and fitted
Prop: Hartzell Constant Speed Prop
HC-C2YK-1BF
Serial# CH 28403
0 SMOH
All AD's complied with
Prop Governor: Woodward B210681
Serial# 2001891
0 SMOH
Exhaust: Vetterman Crossover stainless steel
exhaust, RV-6, NEW
Airbox: Vans RV-6 airbox
Cowling: RV-6 Lightweight cowling
Installed, and fitted for engine and
prop
Set up for Dzus fasteners (not
included)
Scoop needs to be bonded to cowl
Only $26,999!!! Buyer responsible for delivery
I am upgrading my RV-6 project to an IO-360. Please, only serious
inquiries. Please email me any and all questions. I will provide my
phone number to serious inquiries. I will sell to the first offer to
take the entire package.
Located in Granbury, TX TX01
Jimmy Cash
Granbury, TX
jcash(at)granbury.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: One more rivet question |
I agree in total with Mark Dickens post. It is VERY VERY true.
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Check out the archives. There is enough reading there to keep you up for
three days. Everyone has a different opinion. Contact me off list if you need
more info.
I can say that I have tried various forms and now I have a fairly good idea
of what's best for me. There is no need to begin another prime thread.
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don't Fuel from Plastic Containers |
In a message dated 3/27/2002 6:16:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
> 1- Use only metal containers, either portable can or mobile tank (trailer or
> pickup bed, etc.)
>
> 2- Make a "ground strap" of say, 16 ga. wire with an alligator clip on each
> end,
> one end attached to airframe (exhaust pipe?) then to can
>
> 3- add fuel to tanks
>
> Any demons hiding in here? I am kinda curious about the tribocharging
> thing-
> please explain?
You have the general idea. Tying the can to the aircraft during refueling is
what we call equipotential bonding (or sharing the charge). If the can is at
10,000 volts and so is the aircraft, then you have equal potential and
current will not flow between the two to create a spark. The better solution
is to ground the aircraft by tying it to earth, a cold water pipe or a hangar
structure and then equipotentially bond (with a clip on a wire) the metal gas
container either to the aircraft or the same ground as the aircraft. This
both shares the charge and allows it to drain off harmlessly to ground.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | capsteve <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re:eager to see you |
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A message with no text/plain section was received.
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resend the email using plaintext formatting
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting baggage and seat floors |
Jeff,
I'd make two (2) recommendations:
1. I'd wait until you have all your wiring done and install the floor
following your inspection by the FAA (they most likely will be looking for
the floor to be removed for their inspection.
2. While you can remove pop rivets - for future annual inspections and
repairs - the extra effort of installing nutplates will be very much worth
the effort!
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Riveting baggage and seat floors
>Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:54:37 -0600
>
>
>I'm getting ready to rivet in the baggage and seat floors, using pop
>rivets per the plans. I looked ahead and can't find anything in the
>plans (or the archives) to indicate I should put this off. Is there any
>good reason to put this off? This is for a -6 tip up with electric
>flaps.
>
>Jeff Point
>-6 fuse, finish kit on the way
>Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Bert wrote:
> . . . the part no. came no 2-360, a mistake, as all
> other parts are properly marked 320 which is the Lyc. engine I have..
Bert,
My baffle kit for the O320 came with two incorrect parts for the O360. These
were the front pieces that have the cylinder wraps for cylinder 1 and 2 (I
don't have the plans with me, so no part numbers). Vans exchanged them for
the correct O320 parts which worked much better. Trimming the O360 parts
would have left large holes to be filled with hi-temp RTV.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
building airbox for RSA servo
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
I did another run-up the other day to verify I had fixed my tach (which
I did) and was getting a static RPM of 2280... I was just wondering
what other people are getting... BTW... My airport is at 6900'...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Setting EIS Limits... |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Does anyone have information on setting the limits on my EIS? I am
looking for specific limits for oil press/temp, EGT, CHT, fuel press...
Things like that... I have an O320-E3D, 150HP...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
FWIW, a brand new customer of mine last week, was told by AVEMCO that the
deciding factor was the stall speed. Anything over 50 knots that was
homebuilt is what they were dropping.
I am just a lowly helicopter pilot, and don't know anything about stall
speeds, but doesn't that include 1/2 of the RV models or so?
I can't confirm that as they are the direct writer.
John "JT" Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beau Walker" <aebeau(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs
I too called AVEMCO and challenged them re their policy on insuring RV type
aircraft. Their response was that they had received many calls on whether
or not they have withdrawn coverage for homebuits. I was told that they
offer complete coverage for all qualified RV's except the RV3's. They have
stopped insuring some homebuilts, but not RV's. Qualification for coverage
and the premiumis determined using the normal factors such as total pilot
time, time in type, tail wheel time (if appropriate), transion training,
compliance with FAA regulations and certification, etc. I asked if the cost
was higher than what an equally qualified pilot would pay for a comparable
Certified Aircraft. The answer was no. I take that to mean that they don't
attach a penalty rate on RV's.
Perhaps it's time to cool our jets so to speak and accept the fact that
insurers manage risk by limiting the high ones and embracing the lower ones.
Qualified pilots in RV's seem to be quite ok, according to what AVEMCO
told me.
>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs
>Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:08:50 -0500
>
>
>FWIW, below is the response from AVEMCO concerning my query about their
>continuing to insure my RV (Auto Engine Powered)
>
>Ed Anderson
>
>Dear Mr. Anderson;
>
>Thank you for visiting us online.
>
>Despite what you may have heard, Avemco is still in the homebuilt market
>and
>continuing to provide coverage for RV aircraft. Unfortunately, some of the
>news accounts you have read in the last few days were just inaccurate in
>their reporting.
>
>This e-mail is to confirm that your coverage is in effect, and your policy
>limits haven't changed. We will be sending you an offer to renew at the
>appropriate time and look forward to meeting your insurance requirements in
>the future. Additionally, please complete the pilot information form and
>return it to us.
>
>If you have any other questions, please feel free to respond to this e-mail
>or don't hesitate to call us toll-free at 1-800-638-8440 and any Insurance
>Counselor can assist you.
>
>Thank you for your business, we appreciate it.
>
>The Avemco Team
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Anderson [mailto:eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com]
>To: avemco(at)ave.com
>Subject: RV experimental insurance
>
>There has today been a considerable flurry on the RV e mail list that
>AVEMCO
>will no longer insure RV type experimental aircraft. Since I just received
>my policy renewal notice from AVEMCO I would like to know whether there is
>any point in completing the form and sending it in. If you have decided to
>discontinue insuring experimentals I would like to know as soon as possible
>so I can look for coverage elsewhere. My Policy is No. 990102487004
>
>Sincerely
>
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW
>Matthews, NC
>RV-6A N494BW
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | electric fuel pump |
With engine off should I show fuel pressure when I turn on the electric fuel
pump?
Right now it doesn't show pressure, but with engine running, I do get a
boost in fuel pressure when I turn it on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: Barrett RV-6 Firewall forward package!! |
Send phone number. Interested in Louisiana.
Thanks,
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
I'm not aware of any RV (except maybe the "Rockets" but they're not RVs) that
have stall speeds above 55 mph (48 knots).
Finn
John Helms wrote:
>
> FWIW, a brand new customer of mine last week, was told by AVEMCO that the
> deciding factor was the stall speed. Anything over 50 knots that was
> homebuilt is what they were dropping.
>
> I am just a lowly helicopter pilot, and don't know anything about stall
> speeds, but doesn't that include 1/2 of the RV models or so?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
are your gages electric and ON???
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Blum" <bob(at)theblums.net>
Subject: RV-List: electric fuel pump
With engine off should I show fuel pressure when I turn on the electric fuel
pump?
Right now it doesn't show pressure, but with engine running, I do get a
boost in fuel pressure when I turn it on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | electric fuel pump |
>With engine off should I show fuel pressure when I turn on the electric
>fuel pump? Right now it doesn't show pressure, but with engine running,
I >do get a boost in fuel pressure when I turn it on.
Yes you should. Where is your pressure sensor located? It should be at
the carburetor. Turning on the pump should pressurize the system,
bringing up the pressure at the sensor and registering at the gauge.
Make sure your gas has been turned on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | ASI and static port leak testing |
SNIP The pitot static system should be checked for leaks after installation
and
any time a connection is opened. I use a one man brake bleeder/vacuum
tester
from the aviation section of the auto parts store. I attach vacuum tester
to
the static system at the test port/moisture drain I have under the
instrument
panel. Seal the static ports on the fuselage with tape. I then pump the
tester slowly to show 1000 feet on the altimeter. Note how long it takes to
lose altitude. Less than 100 feet in one minute is acceptable. The
airspeed
system can be checked using a blown up balloon over the pitot tube. SNIP
I'll add a bit to this. You can test the static system by taping over one
port and having your helper place their mouth over the other port and suck
slowly. Be sure to take embarrassing pictures. The helper sucks on the
static port until the desired altitude shows on the altimeter, then he (she?
you lucky dog you.)sticks their tongue into the static port to seal it off.
You then use your stopwatch to make sure that the altitude doesn't change
for at least a minute. During this minute, you are expected to make all
sorts of rude comments.
You can check the ASI the same way. Blow slowly so you don't hurt anything
(on the airplane). Take more pictures. What are friends for?
Heck, at least you didn't have to go looking for vacuum tools or balloons!
Vince
Rocket...or canoe, I can't decide.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | electric fuel pump |
Robert,
I've noticed that the pressure doesn't come up on mine very quickly. Others
have made similar observations. The pressure comes up and stays up after the
engine starts. I see the needle move off the stop soon after turning on the
electric fuel pump. This allows for priming using my electric solenoid. I
don't recall what pressure reading I get. I note that the pressure increases
the longer the electric fuel pump is on, however.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
With engine off should I show fuel pressure when I turn on the electric fuel
pump?
Right now it doesn't show pressure, but with engine running, I do get a
boost in fuel pressure when I turn it on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt? |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Found this on the EAA Homebuilder site... It has some good information
I think...
A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt?
Sport Aviation - 1/91
Tony Bingelis
A wood propeller for your homebuilt may be safer than a modified metal
prop. Certainly one could be more readily available and less expensive,
too. Want to hear more?
The Case Against Cut-Down Metal Propellers
Although propeller manufacturers have long produced a variety of metal
propellers for light aircraft . . . type certificated light aircraft,
that is . . . they are generally ill-suited for many homebuilts.
There are two good reasons for this odd state of affairs.
1. The standard 74 inch and 76 inch diameters of the typical type
certificated metal propellers are too long for most homebuilts. The
exception might be those shorter 69 inch propellers designed and
manufactured for the Cessna 150s equipped with Continental 0-200
engines.
2. In addition to their large diameters, the biggest drawback to using
standard certificated metal propellers is that they have insufficient
pitch for our smaller, lighter and faster homebuilts.
Consequently, many a homebuilder, determined to install a metal
propeller, tries to find a good looking used metal prop that he can have
reworked.
By the time he gets his hands on it, and has it cut down (if it hasn't
already suffered that treatment) and repitched, it may no longer be a
very safe propeller to use.
Furthermore, if that additional twist (pitch) is poorly distributed
along the blade length (and it usually is), there goes the touted metal
prop efficiency advantage over a wood propeller.
If you are one of the homebuilders who is still unaware of the blade
stress and fatigue risks introduced when a propeller is cut down and
repitched (especially if the propeller was a damaged one in the first
place), take heed!
Propeller manufacturers caution homebuilders not to modify propellers to
suit experimental aircraft design limitations . . . at least, not
without first having a vibration surrey made. This, for most of us, is
not economically practical or feasible.
If you must cut down a stock propeller, be sure it remains in the
diameter range that is approved vibration-wise on the engine. However,
getting enough twist in the blades to suit your pitch requirement can
still get you into trouble.
This metal propeller modification dilemma only makes the wood
propellers, in spite of a few shortcomings, more attractive than ever to
homebuilders. So, if you have been led to believe your airplane would be
faster with a metal prop, don't you believe it . . . there are plenty of
200 mph homebuilts with wood props.
A Bit About Wood Props
First, the disadvantages. To make a fair comparison with metal props, I
must point out some disadvantages you have to put up with when using a
wood propeller.
A wood propeller is sensitive to humidity changes (wood swells and
shrinks) and retorquing its attachment bolts must become a regular
practice lest you find you have a loose propeller or failed prop bolts
to contend with.
A wood propeller will suffer greater erosion damage when flying through
rain. However, newly developed protective tip overlays have done much to
minimize this problem. Nevertheless, it would be prudent to slow down if
you unexpectedly fly into areas of light rain.
Because a wood propeller is much lighter than a metal prop, it doesn't
make a good flywheel - and may, therefore, stop windmilling should you
experience an engine failure. You can, however, get it turning again by
diving to increase your airspeed to over 120 mph for an engine restart
attempt, or whatever. That does take altitude, doesn't it?
A wood prop with a protective metal tip overlay is somewhat better
protected against blade damage and erosion but it is less efficient due
to the discontinuity or ridge in the airfoil caused by the protruding
edge of the metal tipping. Also, another drawback, these metal inserts
have been known to fly off if the attaching screws rust out and rot the
wood.
With such shortcomings, what good reasons can you possibly have for
using a wood propeller? Plenty . . . but decide for yourself. Now, the
advantages. A fixed pitch wood propeller is the lightest and least
expensive type of propeller you can obtain.
Unlike metal propellers, wood blades do not fail from fatigue due to
bending. Wood propeller blades are thicker than metal blades and,
therefore, do have sufficient stiffness to resist the development of
visible flutter which could be destructive.
You can always get a wood propeller designed and custom built to suit
your engine and aircraft, whatever it may be. This could be especially
important to you folks who have to find a propeller for a pusher. After
all, how many type certificated metal pusher propellers are available?
Even a type certificated wood propeller is far less expensive than a
similar metal propeller.
In comparing prices, you will find that a fixed pitch metal propeller
costs two to three times more than a custom made wood prop - $1200-$1500
vs. $350-$600, approximately. (My beautiful Warnke prop - 68x69 - cost
me $500 plus $30 freight, and a 90 day wait.)
Wood propellers are noted for their smoother running due to their
excellent internal damping characteristics. They also impose less load
on the crankshaft.
Wood propellers are constructed of hardwood laminations, the greater the
number, the better, because they ensure a stronger propeller and
virtually eliminate any tendency for the wood to warp. Laminations as
thin as 1/8" also guarantee uniformity of grain and freedom from hidden
defects.
Certificated Wood Propellers?
Are there such things as type certificated wood propellers? Sure, and
one would be my first choice . . . assuming I could obtain such a
propeller with the diameter and pitch I needed.
The Sensenich Corporation, in addition to making metal propellers, is
perhaps best known by EAAers as a source for the fine type certificated
wood propellers used on classic and antique aircraft.
Actually, Sensenich seems to me to be the only U.S. propeller
manufacturer who is taking an active role and interest in developing
certificated propellers suitable for airplanes like the T-18s, RV-4s,
RV-6s, Mustangs and fast composite homebuilts.
With a certificated wood propeller and a type certificated aircraft
engine installed, the FAA normally imposes a mere 25 hour mandatory
flight test period.
NOTE: I believe that many builders who say they prefer a metal prop over
a custom built wood prop are influenced by the knowledge that with the
installation of a type certificated aircraft engine, and most any metal
propeller, the FAA inspector will grant them a shorter 25 hour test
period. Well, as I just pointed out that same privilege also holds true
when a type certificated wood propeller is installed in a homebuilt.
You have a decided advantage when you can use a stock certificated wood
propeller. Unlike a custom built propeller, you can get one almost
immediately from the propeller manufacturer or from your favorite
homebuilder supply house.
The Custom Built Propellers
The classified section of SPORT AVIATION lists numerous manufacturers of
custom built propellers. Many of them have been in business for years
and also have the expertise to advise you in the selection of a suitable
propeller.
Even so, for many builders the major deterrent to ordering a custom made
(homebuilt) propeller is that the FAA will automatically peg their
mandatory flight test period at 40 hours minimum. Understandably, that
requirement bugs a lot of builders.
This may not be good news to you. Custom made propellers are seldom
stocked and must be made to order.
For this reason, timing can become a very important factor, especially
if you delay ordering your custom made propeller until you are ready for
it.
Take my advice. Try to anticipate your propeller needs well in advance
of the completion date for your airplane. Allow yourself a generous
several months lead time. One local RV-6A builder has been waiting for
his prop for 5 months.
Almost all of these craftsmen (the custom propeller manufacturers) are
turning out wood propellers just as fast as they can . . . and the
orders continue to pour in. If present conditions prevail, your wait for
a propeller will be long.
What To Expect Of Your Propeller
Unfortunately, selecting a suitable fixed pitch propeller for any
airplane is complicated by the fact that no single fixed pitch propeller
(wood or metal) can be best for all flight conditions.
That is to say that a propeller configured to give you the best takeoff
and climb will not give you the highest cruise speed and vice versa.
The ultimate performance attainable for a particular aircraft is, in
reality, a compromise between the optimum takeoff and optimum cruise
performance. Most builders realize this and reluctantly compromise a
little bit of cruise for increased efficiency in their rate of climb.
If you will be operating from an unimproved or short airstrip, you, too,
will probably consider your rate of climb to be more important than your
top speed.
Years ago a Lycoming installation engineer informed me that if I was
using a fixed pitch propeller, the static rpm should be 2300, plus or
minus 50 rpm, when the engine is rated at 2700 rpm (most Lycomings are).
This static rpm will vary slightly depending on the type of propeller
installed. That is, if it is a climb, cruise or economy propeller.
If the static rpm is too high, there is the likelihood of overspeeding
the engine at full throttle in level flight.
It is interesting to note that with a constant speed propeller, static
rpm will be the rated rpm of the engine. This is controlled by the low
pitch setting of the propeller.
The minimum static rpm is established by the manufacturers for each of
their engine installations.
Essentially, reaching this recommended minimum static rpm during your
engine run up is a fair indication that sufficient power will be
developed for takeoff.
A few recommended minimum static rpm for several popular aircraft
engines follow:
Continental A-65 - Not under 1960 rpm
Continental C-85 - 2200 rpm
Continental C-90 - 2125 rpm
Continental 0-200 - 2320 rpm
Lycoming 0-235 - 2200 rpm
Lycoming 0-290 - 2200 rpm
Lycoming 0-320 - 2300 rpm
In general, your propeller should be one that gives you the best cruise
(full throttle) at approximately 7,500 feet altitude without unduly
reducing the rate of climb.
This means a Lycoming with a design 2700 rpm red line should reach its
red line rpm with full throttle at that altitude.
If the engine overspeeds, your prop could absorb more pitch. If you
cannot obtain the 2700 rpm in level flight, the engine is being
overloaded by a propeller with too much pitch.
In bragging about their top speed, some builders neglect to mention that
they are operating their engines over the red line rpm to get more
power. Although this practice may not be regarded as being overly
stressful on the engine, I believe engines can endure just so many power
strokes between major overhauls.
It's up to you. You can use them up quickly or at a more leisurely rate.
Tips For Selecting The Right Prop
A propeller represents a considerable outlay of cast . . . even for an
uncertificated wood propeller that can only be used on a homebuilt.
That being the case, you had better order the right one the first time.
Consider the following:
Your aircraft's weight and balance can influence your propeller
selection.
For example, if you find your airplane has a tail heavy condition, a
metal propeller would be most beneficial in getting more weight up
front. That is because a typical 74 inch metal propeller for a four
cylinder Lycoming engine weighs approximately 30 pounds. Compare this to
the feather weight 10-12 pounds for an equivalent wood propeller.
Aircraft balance just about mandates the use of a wood prop for most of
the popular composite pushers. They cannot tolerate the excessive weight
of a metal prop in back.
But that works both ways, doesn't it? If you have a nose heavy
condition, substituting a lighter wood propeller in place of a heavier
metal prop could help alleviate that problem.
To help you in selecting the right propeller, you'll need to have some
basic information about your airplane.
You should, for example, know the maximum diameter propeller you could
install and still have a minimum ground clearance (in level attitude) of
9 inches.
You should also know the maximum rpm you could turn a maximum diameter
propeller without exceeding its critical tip speed.
The critical tip speed is generally accepted to be 75% of the speed of
sound which, at sea level, is 1100 feet per second (at standard
temperature and pressure). Above that speed a prop loses efficiency and
noise increases considerably.
For this reason, a wood propeller's tip speed should be kept below 850
fps.
With that basic information in hand you are ready to look for a
propeller:
1. You could try to find a type certificated propeller designed for an
aircraft that has a design top speed, rated rpm and horsepower similar
to what you expect to have.
2. You could rely on the aircraft designer's recommendation for a
particular propeller diameter and pitch for each of the engines he has
approved. He may even suggest several sources for propellers. You can
rest assured the designer wants his airplane to perform well for obvious
reasons. His propeller recommendations should, therefore, be seriously
considered.
3. Find out from other builders what props they are using for your type
of aircraft. Compare notes with as many of them as you can before
ordering. Be prepared to hear conflicting information. The performance
figures quoted may not be the same from each of the builders using like
propellers. However, you can safely assume that if they are satisfied
with the propellers they are flying, a like propeller should be fairly
close to what you need.
It's O.K. to be a bit skeptical about performance figures because many
builders do not have calibrated instruments and the performance numbers
they quote may not be as accurate as they choose to believe.
Tachometers, too, are notoriously inaccurate. Quoted airspeeds
especially may be suspect due to poorly located pitot and static ports.
Of course, your own instruments should also be suspect unless you have
them calibrated and checked for accuracy.
4. Select a propeller maker with a good reputation and rely on his
recommendations for a propeller. He will ask you to provide him with
some essential information, namely:
What airplane design is the propeller for?
Which engine and horsepower do you have installed?
What's your preference? Best cruise/top speed. Best take-off/climb/high
altitude or a standard/compromise prop.
What kind of airspeed are you hoping or?
It's comforting to know that most prop makers are very cooperative, and
often mill repitch your wood prop slightly to fine tune its performance
without charge.
And, finally, if your propeller ever develops a serious defect, it
should be returned to the manufacture for repair.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I believe they were referring to the manufacturer (which by the way is still
>Van, as you are just the assembler) of the kit and their idea of what the
>stall speed should be if built to plans. I do not, as a military rotary
>wing pilot, purport to know what those are for every single RV model being
>built.
>
What some lawyer comes up with is another issue, but as far as the FAA is
concerned, I am the manufacturer of my RV-6. Says so right on the
airworthiness certificate.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Repost-Cheap Strobes |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:58:55 PM
The other day I said I would repost this info. It was put together by our
bud Mark Navratil who really did his homework. See, just this post was
worth staying on the list, huh.
Ok cheapskates, here ya go:
I surfed the net far and wide looking for a less expensive strobe power
supply equivalent to Whelen's high-powered HDA-CF Cometflash system. The
only one I could find is the X-PAK 904, a 4-head power supply built by
NOVA Electronics (www.strobe.com). All the info is on their website
including links to distributors. I paid $159 for it from Strobes 'n'
More. It has a good 5 year warranty, the quality appears to be very
good, and the installation directions are outstanding. It uses the exact
same AMP connectors as Whelen does, so I also bought some connectors and
30' of cable from Strobes 'n' More bringing my total to $200 including
S&H. (note: the cable is nice quality, shielded, looks identical to the
"aviation" stuff but it's a fraction of the cost at $0.35 per foot).
Then I got some used #A650 Whelen nav/strobe assemblies from White air
salvage in KS City, total $140 (they look and work good, just need
paint). I already had a white tail nav light that came with my
second-hand empennage kit. So I'm out $340 for the complete system which
is about half of what the equivalent setup costs from Whelen.
Some info on the power supply....it's rated at 90 Watts output or 75
Joules total. The specs are very close to the 3-head Whelen HDA-CF
Cometflash system in terms of output power. But the NOVA power supply
has several other features that I like, primarily the ability to select
multiple flash patterns. I plan to use the Quintuple Flash mode
alternating between the two wingtip strobes. This gives a very long,
high-powered quintuple burst to each strobe which looks from a distance
like a brighter, longer flash. The flash rate of each strobe in this
mode appears to be 70 flashes per minute (of course it's actually 70 X 5
bursts but you can't distinguish that unless you're close to it). 70
flashes per minute falls right into the acceptable flash rate for strobes
per FAR 23.1401 which says the system "must give an effective flash
frequency of not less than 40, nor more than 100, cycles per minute. The
effective flash frequency is the frequency at which the airplane's
complete anticollision light system is observed from a distance, and
applies to each sector of light including any overlaps that exist when
the system consists of more than one light source. In overlaps, flash
frequencies may exceed 100, but not 180, cycles per minute." So you
could also use this system to drive both wingtips simultaneously and a
third strobe in the tail, and it would still fall within the regs....that
is, you would see a combined wingtip/tail flashrate of 140 per minute.
Another selectable feature on this system is a "low power mode" that you
can activate with a switch. The advantage to this is twofold: at night,
you can use the lower power mode on the ramp so you don't blind yourself
and everyone around you; and you could also prolong your flashtube life
by using this mode whenever you are on the ground and you don't have the
benefit of lots of cooling airflow. In the quintuple flash mode (high
power) the heads get very hot very fast in still air. And on that note,
I'd also recommend against using Aeroflash strobes with this power
supply, since they are not rated to take the same kind of energy the
Whelen strobes are. I think you'd burn up the Aeroflash strobes pretty
quick in the high power mode. For example, if you are using the
quintuple flash mode but only have two of the four strobe outputs
connected, each of the two strobes will get 45 W or 37 Joules (which on
my airplane is the desired effect : ). It will not hurt the power supply
at all to leave two outputs disconnected according to NOVA, but their
installation instructions say not to do it because most emergency vehicle
strobe heads are only rated to 32 W or 25 Joules, so you'd burn them out
very quickly if you connected them this way.
Disclaimer: since my airplane isn't flying yet I can't do a side by side
comparison from a distance with the Whelen HDA-CF system, but since I'm
using the same strobes and the power supplies have comparable specs, I
believe they will be too close to tell the difference, except that the
NOVA system has the quintuple flash mode (vs. Whelen's quadflash) so the
NOVA system might appear to have a slightly longer--hence more
visible--flash. NOVA's flashrate is also higher (if I understand
Whelen's specs correctly). One thing I can guarantee, the NOVA system is
absolutely blinding to look at up close even in daylight, and is
certainly MUCH brighter than the strobe systems I've seen from Aeroflash
or on the typical spamcan.
My last comment is that Nova Electronics has great tech support, I
dialogued quite a bit with Eugene Abel at Nova, trying to understand the
effects of connecting different combinations of strobes, flashrates and
energy delivered, etc....he was very helpful and gave me too much good
info to write on the list but if anyone has more specific questions feel
free to ask (him or me).
This one's for the archives and hopefully will save somebody else the
amount of time it's taken me to figure it all out...if money's not an
issue I'd recommend just getting the complete Whelen system and save
yourself a bit of time/effort. Or, if brightness doesn't matter, go with
Aeroflash.....there was debate a while back on the list where some people
thought that brighter strobes didn't make any real difference....NOT
trying to start that thread again. : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87", and some pretty bright flashy
things on the wingtips....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Setting EIS Limits... |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Bill,
I'm attaching two pages from my POH that list the EIS-4000 limits that work for
me on my O-360.
Since attachments don't work on the lists, anyone else interested should email
a request to me, or pick up the whole POH from my website, in the "documents"
section.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 337 hrs
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
> Does anyone have information on setting the limits on my EIS? I am
> looking for specific limits for oil press/temp, EGT, CHT, fuel press...
> Things like that... I have an O320-E3D, 150HP...
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
>
>
http://movies.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: steel and plastic gas cans |
Here's how I'd summarize this issue:
Given that metal gas containers can be properly and adequately grounded,
there will still be some who will use plastic containers.
- One person suggested putting a grounding wire in plastic containers,
and bring that wire outside and putting a clip on it and grounding it.
- I believe that everyone missed his point and got off on a tangent
about wire mesh embedded in the plastic, etc. His point was - have a wire
(piece of wire mesh is better) down in the fuel and ground it. That mesh
(or wire) will bleed off a significant amount of any static buildup in the
fuel itself - that is what we are after.
And, to repeat for emphasis: The colder it is (like down below 40 degrees
F, especially below 30 degrees F), the drier the air - and the greater the
danger of static buildup - and discharge if things aren't done with "best
practices". In the desert, it doesn't have to be as cold to be dry enough
to get significant static charge buildup.
The Air Force burns up about one transport or tanker a year (or maybe every
3 years) in winter refueling static-related fires, even using "best
practices" - large fuel flow rates, mega-volts potential build-up, sparks
jump internally in the system before the charge gets bled off by the
"grounding system".
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: steel and plastic gas cans
>
> I read somewhere in the last several months about plastic gas cans with
> embedded wires to deal with the static electricity problem. It could have
> been in an aviation catalog or publication, or maybe it wasn't. If I find
> it, I will post it to the list. Some manufacturer has addressed the
problem.
>
> Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot Static Check: |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Your Altemeter is the best differential gauge you have.
Tape the RH static port off.
Tape the LH port off.
Then put a second piece of tape over the LH but not over the port at this
time.
Use a vacuum hand pump with vacuum hose on the end & just push up against
the LH port.
You will be watching all three guuges & run the suction up to the limit
of the airspeed.
Your rate will be the VSI.
Now when you get there ( app 3000 feet) just remove the pump hose & very
quickly push the second layer of tape over the port to seal.
You should hold 100 feet in 5 minutes.
When removing the tape , you want to step down slowly so not to bang the
gauges.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> The pitot static system should be checked for leaks after
> installation and
> any time a connection is opened. I use a one man brake
> bleeder/vacuum tester
> from the aviation section of the auto parts store. I attach vacuum
> tester to
> the static system at the test port/moisture drain I have under the
> instrument
> panel. Seal the static ports on the fuselage with tape. I then
> pump the
> tester slowly to show 1000 feet on the altimeter. Note how long it
> takes to
> lose altitude. Less than 100 feet in one minute is acceptable. The
> airspeed
> system can be checked using a blown up balloon over the pitot tube.
> I also
> use this method to pre check aircraft before having pitot static
> checks for
> IFR certification.
>
> Cash Copeland A&P
> Oakland, Ca
> RV6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
My gauge is coming from aft of the mechanical. When I turn on elec boost
for start, I have pressure.
Is your plumbing different?
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
>
> With engine off should I show fuel pressure when I turn on the
> electric fuel
> pump?
>
> Right now it doesn't show pressure, but with engine running, I do
> get a
> boost in fuel pressure when I turn it on.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Who out here in CA, AZ, or NV is planning to fly their RV to Oshkosh this
year?
I'm going, but have never flown there in my own AC. So it seems like a
loosly formed gaggle of RVs filled with airsick psycopaths would be more
interesting and possibly safer in the long run.
Anybody out there who's going from the left lower corner? I suppose if
there's some interest in this we could do some preplanning on best routes,
legs etc. I just figure tagging along behind those who have done it before
is the way I've learned everything in aviation.... might as well keep doing
what works.
I'm limited to VFR and have no urge to get there in one day, in fact I don't
care if it takes a few weeks, and we go via alaska > maine > florida >
wisconsin
I'm in San Diego, @ SEE
wnorth(at)sdccd.net
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Check: |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I forgot the small pin hole. You want a small pin hole from a needle in
the first tape on the LH port so when you remove the hole the vacuum will
be restricted to a slow flow rate.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
> Your Altemeter is the best differential gauge you have.
>
> Tape the RH static port off.
> Tape the LH port off.
> Then put a second piece of tape over the LH but not over the port at
this time.
**************
use a needle to punch a hole in the center of the tape on the LH port
****************
> Use a vacuum hand pump with vacuum hose on the end & just push up
> against the LH port.
> You will be watching all three guuges & run the suction up to the
> limit of the airspeed.
> Your rate will be the VSI.
> Now when you get there ( app 3000 feet) just remove the pump hose &
> very quickly push the second layer of tape over the port to seal.
>
> You should hold 100 feet in 5 minutes.
>
> When removing the tape , you want to step down slowly so not to bang
> the gauges.
>
>
> Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
> Arlington, Tx
> ******************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: steel and plastic gas cans |
Here's a link to a government site that talks about the problem of filling
portable gas cans while sitting in the back of a pickup, which appears to be
about the same problem as we are concerned about. Interestingly, they say
ungrounded metal is more hazardous that ungrounded plastic.
Terry
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/hid2.html
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/28/2002 1:32:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
> Who out here in CA, AZ, or NV is planning to fly their RV to Oshkosh this
> year?
>
>
We have a flight of 4 going from cable.
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
I just change my policy from AVEMCO, which was 2300 a year for 45K policy.
JT gave me a better policy for 1100 a year. I guess I'll buy that auto pilot
now.
Carey Mills
RV4, 220 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Fred keep me informed as I would like to go this year.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ferdfly(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh
>
> In a message dated 3/28/2002 1:32:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
>
> >
> > Who out here in CA, AZ, or NV is planning to fly their RV to Oshkosh
this
> > year?
> >
> >
>
> We have a flight of 4 going from cable.
> Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
> SO.CAL.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Malone" <scottm(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: electronic ignition: |
I have Jeff's electronic ignition on my RV-6, 0360. I've put 300 hours on
the plane and haven't had any problems with it. Performance at higher
altitude is great and I see 50 rpm difference at runup. My Twin brother has
an Rv-6a with the ignition and had the main pick-up go out but Jeff was
Quick to replace it. I think it's great and the price makes it a no-brainer
----- Original Message -----
From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV6-List: electronic ignition:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
>
>
> I see a lot of info and problems with various electronic ignition
> systems,,,but nothing on the Electoair Direct Ignition System put out by
> Jeff Rose the Navaid guy. I have seen the demo at Oshkosh and was
> impressed, but that was not in the real world of flying.
> I would appreciate any feedback from anyone who is using this
> system.
>
> Thanks:
> Doyal R. Plute
> RV6A about done (almost)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | The FAA considers ME not VAN the manufactor?? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs
>
> I believe they were referring to the manufacturer (which by the way is
still
> Van, as you are just the assembler) of the kit and their idea of what the
> stall speed should be if built to plans. I do not, as a military rotary
> wing pilot, purport to know what those are for every single RV model being
> built.
>
> (because my comment above will likely draw many a flame) If you insist on
> being the manufacturer, then the insurance companies would likely not
cover
> it because it is NOT a Van's model... and ...
>
> Food for thought: I suggest you read the archived article on AVWEB at
> http://www.avweb.com/articles/liabhome.html It describes the legal
> difference of where the manufacturer's liability ends and the assembler's
> begins. (i.e. if you replace a part Van sends you with something you buy
at
> your local hardware store because it looks the same, you have taken on the
> manufacturer's liability roll if that part fails... as the company that
> produces that thing didn't intend that it end up on an airplane and will
> likely not be held liable.)
>
> John "JT" Helms
>
Wait a minute, John, the FAA makes it quite clear that I am the
manufacture - not Van, it says so on my airworthiness application. Now, if
I understand you correctly - some lawyer could hold me liable as the
manufacture and point to the airworthiness certificate as evidence of that I
am the manufacture. Or are you telling me that the insurance companies sort
of ignore the manufacture of record on the air worthiness certificate.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: steel and plastic gas cans |
In a message dated 3/28/2002 4:20:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
terrywatson3(at)attbi.com writes:
> Here's a link to a government site that talks about the problem of filling
> portable gas cans while sitting in the back of a pickup, which appears to
> be
> about the same problem as we are concerned about. Interestingly, they say
> ungrounded metal is more hazardous that ungrounded plastic.
>
On an insulator (plastic container) that becomes tribocharged, the
distribution of charges is nonuniform, with some areas becoming positively
charged and other, possibly adjacent, areas becoming negatively charged. To
some extent the sum total of all of these charges could actually net zero
volts (interesting huh?). Given some time and the presence of moisture,
these charges will dissipate completely and also net zero volts. The way the
insulator becomes charged has to do with movement intimate with it's surface.
You can't really transfer a charge to it by just touching it and the way it
discharges is unpredictable.
In the case of a metal or conductive container, charges are uniformly
distributed across the total surface (theoretically). The limit (volts) to
which one could charge the metal container is indefinite and limited only by
the surrounding conditions and the distance between a discharge path and the
container. Walking across a carpet and shuffling your mukluks can generate
20,000 volts easy.
If you then touch the metal container, it shares a portion (equipotential
bonding) of your charge (for illustration let's say half). Now you approach
your aircraft and it's either been sitting all night (zero charge grounded
thru moisture and tire contact with the ground) or it's still charged up from
flying around in dry air (tribocharging). At any rate, you now have at
least the possibility of 10,000 volts jumping from the can nozzle to the rim
of your fuel tank in just the area where the ideal stochiometric ratio could
be achieved. Pretty predictable and pretty scary. Don't try this at home.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland & Anne <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Revision DWG 31A |
My print package did not include DWG 31A. Is that a part of the Firewall
Forward Kit?
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Randall Henderson's Vibration article |
I've been asked by a few people where to find my Vibration article that was
referenced in the most recent RVator. Unfortunately there was a
misunderstanding there. See, the article was published in the January issue
of the Home Wing newsletter, which we used to keep up on an FTP site. But we
decided to stop doing that after the local newspaper quoted something out of
context that appeared in a back-issue, in an article about one of members
who was killed (this in spite of our statement requiring permission for
reprints).
I spoke to Ken Scott about it and he hadn't realized we'd stopped posting
them on the internet. But he also asked if he could reprint the article in
the next RVator. So be patient, it's coming.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fueling from Plastic Containers |
> Per MIL-STD-1686 and Electronics 101, grounding an insulator (common
> Polyethylene gas can) is ineffective at reducing the static charge.
> The only ways to drain static charges from an insulator are to load it
> with a volume conductive material (like carbon), load it with a
> hygroscopic antistatic compound that leaches out of the plastic over
> its life (like the material in "pink poly" bags for electronics) or
> bathe the article in the stream from an ionizer (Polonium 210 is a
> good alpha emitter and can accomplish this).
I'm finding this difficult to understand. As I understand it, static
electricity builds up an excess of electrons on the surface of the
insulator (plastic gas can), forming a sheet of charge. When the
voltage is sufficient to break down the air between the gas can and
another nearby object (aircraft fuel tank) the electrons from the surface
of the plastic can rush to the other object , creating a spark.
I understand that the plastic gas can will not conduct electricity
through itself. Excess electrons will, however, flow over the surface
of the plastic gas can, as they do during the spark process. If I attach
a conductor from the surface of the gas can to the other object, I
would expect the electrons to take the lowest impedance route (the
conductor) to the other object (aircraft, ground rod, etc).
What am I missing?
Thanks,
Tim
(elderly electrical engineering degree gathering dust)
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt? |
> Found this on the EAA Homebuilder site... It has some good information
> I think...
>
> A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt?
> Sport Aviation - 1/91
> Tony Bingelis
>
> A wood propeller for your homebuilt may be safer than a modified metal
> prop. Certainly one could be more readily available and less expensive,
> too. Want to hear more?
>
Although this was an interesting article, I don't see that a wood prop is
better than metal for us RVers. There are so many negatives for wood props,
such as those listed in this article, that I chose a metal prop. The
article discussed cutting off tips, etc. that we don't have to do because we
can get Sensenich fixed pitch props that are made for our RVs. Given the
choice, I picked the Sensenich in a heartbeat. It didn't take me long to
figure out that there was more work, and probably more expense in the long
run, with a wooden prop. I've not regretted my choice. A fellow RVer
friend of mine has bought several of the good named wooden props for testing
and has finally decided for himself that the Sensenich is the one for him,
also. He's sold all of his wooden props that were just like new.
I realize your prop choice is a big decision for you; but, I remember a
fella I met at a fly-in who told me to pick a metal prop for mine. He said
that by the time he was satisfied with his wooden prop, he'd already spent
more in wooden props to easily fund that Sensenich metal prop. That's what
really made me seriously think about the metal prop.
Fellas, if you have to have that wooden prop, buy it. If you have to have
it repitched, realize that's done by taking off more wood. That bothers me;
but, it may not bother you. However, if you're so bent on performance that
you have to buy more props to get it just right, or you have to cut one down
more to get that special twist, why not buy a constant speed prop? Now,
that's the cat's meow. :-)
Obviously, these are only my opinions and have no technical merit. I will
allow this one to archive, though, because the original note was. A
rebuttle should be made in the archives for future prop purchasers, I guess.
It's much better than seeing our personal notes to each other archived.
(Yeah, even I accidentally do it, from time totime. :-) )
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Fueling from Plastic Containers |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
> I'm finding this difficult to understand. , I
> would expect the electrons to take the lowest impedance route (the
> conductor) to the other object (aircraft, ground rod, etc).
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
Tim,
I'm no electrical engineer, but I play one when building RV's. What I
think you're missing is the fact that the electrons still spark when they
jump to that "close" conductor attached to the plastic container. Where as
on a metal container it smoothly transfers the electrons through the
container to the bonding cable to ground/earth without said spark.
Chuck
(okay, now a real electrical engineer will chime in and explain what
"really" happens)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Response from AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
In a message dated 3/28/2002 9:28:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mikel(at)dimensional.com writes:
> one has ever asked. And MY RV-4 cruises at 275 kts and stalls at 25. I
> have not had an insurance agent go flying with me to disprove this.
>
>
All this on a 0-320 ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
I have two questions regarding a possible propeller change for a 1985
RV-3A. The aircraft has an Aymar-Demuth prop. If I change to another
manufacturer's wood prop, is that considered a major alteration that
would require approval from the local FSDO and perhaps additional flight
test time? What if I were to change to the Sennsenich metal prop?
Thanks,
John Warren
LaCenter WA
RV-3A soon
RV-6 in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place
to locate it.
If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts
are.
Thank you,
Bob Dean
Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna.
Best NAV antenna. Best location. NO drag.
Contact Bob Archer at (310) 316-8796, or bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com
Jim Ayers
jeayers1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I put mine in my wing tips...seems to work fine there..at least the field
strength meter says so...jolly, the ogre...
"Robert J. Dean" wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Robert J. Dean"
>
> I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
>
> I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place
> to locate it.
>
> If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts
> are.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bob Dean
> Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Bob, you may find this link useful:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
=================
"Robert J. Dean" wrote:
>
>
> I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
>
> I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place
> to locate it.
>
> If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts
> are.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bob Dean
> Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Faulty Altitude reporting |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Faulty Altitude reporting
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> >
> > > Bob . . .
> >
> >Ok, Bob. Can you point me to IC data sheets (receiver/demodulator) that
> >would make it easy to
> >"roll your own"? Once I have a demodulated signal, it shouldn't be hard
to
> >catch, decode the
> >gray codes and display the result.
> >
> >Finn
>
> I'm not aware of any easy receiver chips although there
> may be some. The Airsport uses transmission line filters
> driving a discrete detector driving some gain. The
> "demodulator" is a 68HC705 microcontroller programmed
> to recognize and decode the transponder's reply stream
> in addition to managing all the GUI features.
>
> Here's a breakdown on the decoding task for
> the microprocessor:
>
> http://www.airsport-corp.com/modec.htm
> http://www.airsport-corp.com/modecascii.txt
>
> I think you'd find it MUCH less expensive to
> buy the gizmo already built . . .
>
> Bob . . .
Bob and all,
I thought someone else would have brought this up - See April 1998
Kitplanes, pp 20-23, "Aero 'Lectrics" "Here's how to check altitude encoders
via the Karmic connection." by Jim Weir.
Partial quotes: "What I needed was a practical way to test the encoder. If
that ... proved to be within tolerance, then by process of elimination it
would be the altimeter that was out of tolerance. I needed a way to read
the digital code that the encoder was transmitting and compare it to a known
good altimeter. . . . three problems [to solve]. One, how do I simulate
changes of altitude without actually flying the little rascal? Two, how do
I read the code and compare it to a known good code? Three, how do I
connect it all together so that I only have to make this setup once for my
encoder and then can use it for anybody's encoder."
He then procedes to design and illustrate a nice test box. Gives Table1,
Altitudes of 100 & 400 feet and corresponding codes for A B C data lines A1
A2 A4 B1 B2 B4 C1 C2 C4 and Table 2, Altitudes of 2800-3200 and codes for
A1 A2 A4 B1 B2 B4.
Final info in article: "Finally, As the nine three-colored LEDs that Weir
used to make it easy to distinguish the A, B and C data lines are not
generally available in the Radio Shack catalog, RST (Weir's company) offers
a "Sorta-Kit" arrangement, where RST supplies the LEDs and lenses, the
switch, the wire, the Karmic connector set, and the front panel artwork.
The builder supplies the Radio Shack specified case and does the drilling of
the case. RST's catalog number is RST-7301, and the parts sell for $25 plus
shipping. Call RST Engineering at 530/272-2203 or sales@rst-eng.com"
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
The answer is "yes" to both your questions. Any change of make and/or model
is a major change. If you have the older Operating Limitations that state
you must get approval from the FAA prior to any change then that is what you
must do. If you have the newer Operating Limitations that states you may do
the change and place the aircraft into a minimum of 5 hours of test flying
then that is what you do.
If you have any questions feel free to contact me directly.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Propeller Change - Major Alteration?
>Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:45:13 -0800
>
>
>I have two questions regarding a possible propeller change for a 1985
>RV-3A. The aircraft has an Aymar-Demuth prop. If I change to another
>manufacturer's wood prop, is that considered a major alteration that
>would require approval from the local FSDO and perhaps additional flight
>test time? What if I were to change to the Sennsenich metal prop?
>
>Thanks,
>John Warren
>LaCenter WA
>RV-3A soon
>RV-6 in progress
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
>>I have two questions regarding a possible propeller change for a 1985
RV-3A. The aircraft has an Aymar-Demuth prop. If I change to another
manufacturer's wood prop, is that considered a major alteration that
would require approval from the local FSDO and perhaps additional flight
test time?
Yes, as part of the reason for the flight testing is to prove that the
prop/engine combination works. I believe this is supposedly the thinking
behind 25 hours for an "approved" prop/engine combination and 40 hours
for an "unapproved" combination. Seems to vary from DAR to DAR, however.
You need to contact your FISDO and let them know you have a new prop.
They may assign another test time for the new prop. There are also more
than one version of the Operating Limitations and it depends on what one
you are operating under; probably the old with an '85.
>>What if I were to change to the Sennsenich metal prop?
Same thing.
At least this is what I was told after my inspection: if you change the
prop you will be given another round of testing.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
In theory this is a good idea........but in the real world of
RVs.......it doesn't make much difference.
Most, if not all runways with a localizer or ILS approach are going to
be at least 75' wide. The offset of a wing-tip localizer antenna in an
RV is about 13'. Even if you are sharp enough to nail the ILS dead on at
touch down (and we are assuming a zero-zero landing here; if you break
out at minimums this whole discussion is moot since you have 200' of
altitude to "move" the plane over 13' to the centerline) being 13' off
center line just isn't a big deal.
The wing tip antenna works great and presents no safety or navigational
problems.
Sam Buchanan
============================
"Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
>
>
> I don't know about you but I think I'd prefer my ILS antenna on centerline!
>
> RV-8 qb
> 25 yr ILS tech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Dean,
I've been following the list for awhile and have noted that a lot of people
are going to the wing tip mount. You can find a lot of discussion of the
subject subject in the archives. The expert seems to be Bob Archer who
developed antennas for the aerospase industry. See the writeup on Sam
Buchanan's "RV Journal" site.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm I've also seen a couple
writes elsewhere, but can't remember where. (Suffering from CRS) Some
builders have used it and reported good result and it's a clean
installation. I'm leaning towards this approach when the time comes.
George
RV8, Skinning wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert J. Dean [mailto:deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Robert J. Dean"
I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place
to locate it.
If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts
are.
Thank you,
Bob Dean
Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
Get your paper work up-dated and then your major change of a prop will only
require 5 hour testing and a log-book entry.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller Change - Major Alteration?
>>I have two questions regarding a possible propeller change for a 1985
RV-3A. The aircraft has an Aymar-Demuth prop. If I change to another
manufacturer's wood prop, is that considered a major alteration that
would require approval from the local FSDO and perhaps additional flight
test time?
Yes, as part of the reason for the flight testing is to prove that the
prop/engine combination works. I believe this is supposedly the thinking
behind 25 hours for an "approved" prop/engine combination and 40 hours
for an "unapproved" combination. Seems to vary from DAR to DAR, however.
You need to contact your FISDO and let them know you have a new prop.
They may assign another test time for the new prop. There are also more
than one version of the Operating Limitations and it depends on what one
you are operating under; probably the old with an '85.
>>What if I were to change to the Sennsenich metal prop?
Same thing.
At least this is what I was told after my inspection: if you change the
prop you will be given another round of testing.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I would guess that being ~12 feet off the centerline will suffice for _my_
needs. If I can't get back to the centerline from a 400-500 agl breakout (my
personal minimuims) then I better hang up my IFR ticket. :-)
> Some builders have used it and reported good result and it's a clean
> installation. I'm leaning towards this approach when the time comes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mitchf(at)netscape.com (Mitchell Faatz) |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
It's even less of a big deal if you place the NAV antenna in the left
wingtip, so the runway is slightly on the pilot's side of the window
where it's real easy to find. Assuming you nail those needles...
I'm putting the NAV in left wingtip, and COM in VS as recommended by Bob
Archer, Jim Ayers, etc.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit San Mateo, CA
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>... Even if you are sharp enough to nail the ILS dead on at
>touch down (and we are assuming a zero-zero landing here; if you break
>out at minimums this whole discussion is moot since you have 200' of
>altitude to "move" the plane over 13' to the centerline) being 13' off
>center line just isn't a big deal.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I put my VOR/ILS cat whisker on top of the fin as is convential. Works as
expected. Only thing I did different from standard wss to connect my FM
radio to it as well via a triplexor. Really good FM reception.
Greg Miller
rv8 n89gm, 115 hrs TT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert J. Dean
Subject: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Robert J. Dean"
I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place
to locate it.
If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts
are.
Thank you,
Bob Dean
Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AVEMCO on Insuring Homebuilts RVs |
Avemco just sent me a renewal notice that my rates for my rv-4 was going
from 2100 a year to 3000 a year and said in the renewal notice that it
wasnt because I was a bad pilot but because of a buisness decision that
they had made for a whole class of business. You decide if they are
telling the truth or not as quoted below. I contacted Sky Smith and got
the same coverage from AIG for 994 a year.
> I asked if the
>cost was higher than what an equally qualified pilot would pay for a
>comparable
>Certified Aircraft. The answer was no. I take that to mean that they
>don't attach a penalty rate on RV's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
Cy,
I will be getting my RV-6 inspected in the next few weeks. Can you tell me
exactly what my operating limitations should say to accomplish this?
Ken Harrill
RV-6, waiting on the FAA
Get your paper work up-dated and then your major change of a prop will only
require 5 hour testing and a log-book entry.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Change - Major Alteration? |
I think all new operating limitations are set up for the new procedure. I
checked with HQ. All new operating limitations will be set up for the 5 hour
test and log book. You can go on the www.eaa.org go to the home builders
section and there is a sample I was told.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Harrill" <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller Change - Major Alteration?
Cy,
I will be getting my RV-6 inspected in the next few weeks. Can you tell me
exactly what my operating limitations should say to accomplish this?
Ken Harrill
RV-6, waiting on the FAA
Get your paper work up-dated and then your major change of a prop will only
require 5 hour testing and a log-book entry.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I put my vor on bottom of fus in back. Com is between gear legs. Works Fine.
Stan Mehrhoff
N188sm 50 + hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | The good side of Avemco |
Not to drag this out any more than necessary, but as a result of selling my
RV-6 and moving to an RV-3 I could no longer get insurance from Avemco
despite almost 30 years of service. This is not news - they have not covered
the -3 for hull for a number of years. So I went with NationAir for the -3
(where I got a great rate). But when this all came up I decided to get
alternate quotes for my Twin Comanche as well. Bottom line is Avemco
continued me at $2200 for $80K hull and $1M liability while the best
NationAir could do was $3500 for basically the same coverage. I have insured
many planes with Avemco, including an RV-4 and the RV-6, and had good luck
most of the time. Right now they just seem to have their priorities all
screwed up. Lets hope they get unscrewed sometime soon.
Jim Van Laak
Formerly N1KJ
Soon N112RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Sam,
I read your article with great interest. Does this antenna work for the
glide slope as well??
Mike
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna placement for RV-8
>Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:52:11 -0600
>
>
>Bob, you may find this link useful:
>
>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>=================
>
>"Robert J. Dean" wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
> >
> > I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best
>place
> > to locate it.
> >
> > If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your
>thoughts
> > are.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Bob Dean
> > Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com
> >
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/28/2002 6:44:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
t.gummo(at)verizon.net writes:
>
> Fred keep me informed as I would like to go this year.
> Tom
>
>
Do ya suppose ya could Keep up?I`d hate to slow fly all the way there. OK
I`ll let you know, You and KaBong?
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
The TIT in my "new" RV-4 seems a bit high. It is an IO-360 with about
60 hours total time and the cowling and baffling are in new condition.
The TIT in 65-75% cruise is 390 to 410. Even at a low power cruise it
runs 370-380. It has a new oil cooler and the oil temps are good at
180-190.
Anyone have any clever suggestions for increasing cooling air flow
and/or cowl exit area. Is there a calculation I can use to determine
how much exit additional cowling exit area will be required to reduce
the TIT by 10 degrees? Or is it strictly trial and error? Has anyone
ever tried louvers? If so where did you place them?
Thanks
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
houston, tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mitchf(at)netscape.com (Mitchell Faatz) |
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Corp for Registry |
What state do you live in?
Also, my understanding is that a Deleware corp costs about $75/year
(plus yearly paperwork requirements to maintain your corporate status),
is that correct?
Mitch Faatz San Mateo, CA RV-6A Finish Kit
Karen Gooding wrote:
>
>We formed a Delaware corp and registered all our planes to it when the
>county billed us over $2,000 a year for property tax on a 1948 PA-17 and
>1961 Skyhawk. Oklahoma City reports the addresses of a/c registrations to
>the states, the counties get the info in turn and send out property tax
>bills. We have had the Delaware corp for about 6 years now, works exactly
>as advertised. Costs about $75 a year to maintain it. With the RV-6 and
>J-3S added to the fleet I figure our savings around $5,000 a year.
>
>Karen Gooding
>The Bucking Bar Queen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Mike, I don't have a glide slope receiver in my plane, but I have been
told the glide slope operates on a multiple of the localizer frequency.
This means that instead of the antenna being a quarter-wave antenna, it
becomes a half-wave......or something like that.
Now......if I totally mangled that explanation, you techies out there
can straighten me out..... :-)
Bottom line is the antenna, as well as any VOR antenna, will work fine
for the glide slope as well. You will need a splitter in order to drive
both receivers.
Sam Buchanan
=============================
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
>
> I read your article with great interest. Does this antenna work for the
> glide slope as well??
>
> Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>The TIT in my "new" RV-4 seems a bit high. It is an IO-360 with about
>60 hours total time and the cowling and baffling are in new condition.
>The TIT in 65-75% cruise is 390 to 410. Even at a low power cruise it
>runs 370-380. It has a new oil cooler and the oil temps are good at
>180-190.
>
>Anyone have any clever suggestions for increasing cooling air flow
>and/or cowl exit area. Is there a calculation I can use to determine
>how much exit additional cowling exit area will be required to reduce
>the TIT by 10 degrees? Or is it strictly trial and error? Has anyone
>ever tried louvers? If so where did you place them?
>
>Thanks
>Jeff Bertsch
"TIT"? Turbine Inlet Temp?? Whoa! I want one 'o them too! ;)
Sorry, just couldn't resist. I'm guessing you're referring to Cylinder Head
Temp. With such a new engine, I wouldn't go to any extremes right now with
your cowling inlets or outlets. Get more time on it. The stock inlet sizes
and outlet configuration seems to work well for most of us without any
radical mods, with maybe the exception of the RV-8/8A with IO-360 200hp
engine in hot climates. These RV's are tightly cowled machines, and CHT's
tend to run higher than most new RV'ers are used to seeing. My RV8/O-360
typically shows 375 deg on cyl #3 in cruise with mixture leaned to 1425 deg
EGT on the same jug. Airspeed makes a big difference with CHT, as does
angle of attack. You can putz around at 100mph on a hot day, with the nose
up high and really cook things under the hood. Your IO-360, if it is an
angle valve 200hp, uses spash oil on the piston skirts to help cooling.
That heat has to go somewhere, so it might be showing up in your CHT
readings. Your oil cooler seems to be doing the job, so at least that isn't
cause for concern.
Yes, louvers have been tried, with varying results. I understand Van's
"Dilbert" RV8 has one. Might want to check with them.
Just make sure your baffles are not blowing out, oil pressure is holding
steady , and play with the mixture a bit to see if a little richer (or
leaner?) setting shows a CHT temp improvement. These Lycosaurs are wacky
old beasts and need to be slapped around a bit to get them to behave. Sort
of like most politicians.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
280 hrs. of mostly New Mexican dessert ops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
> >
> > >
> > > I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8.
> > >
> > > I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best
> >place
> > > to locate it.
> > >
Jeff Ludwig's -8 has the whiskers mounted back in the tail, UNDER the HS,
right around the tailwheel spring mount area. The antennae are hardly
noticeable back there and pose no potential for eyeball removal while
walking around the tail of the airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
280 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Modifying a metal prop |
> A wood propeller for your homebuilt may be safer than a modified metal
> prop. Certainly one could be more readily available and less
expensive,
> too. Want to hear more?
The bottom line, which was the top line here, was that cutting down and
repitching a metal prop not made for the RV series was/is a BAD IDEA.
This was being done on a regular basis before there were good wood and
now metal props available. There were a number of these modified metal
props that parted company with the airplane, the results of which were
always bad. Has to do with vibrations and forces that the prop can't
take. Think how long it took Sensenich to come up with metal props for
our birds, and they have RPM restrictions. If you are thinking about
hacking and bending on that prop off the Cessna 172, please don't. You
will save a couple hundred dollars and run the risk of losing the farm.
Besides, there are now many other choices made for the task.
Michael
Swinging a beautiful Warnke prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I have my VOR antenna located below the fuse, just ahead of the tailwheel
spring. That works great with no problem of interference with people on the
ground - unless they're less than 2' tall.
My com antenna is located between the gear legs and I occasionally have
trouble talking with ground or tower when on the ground. It's just blocked
by the airplane too much being in that location. You might consider the
wingtip installation for the com.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
"Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
>
>
> If I have my Bob Nuckoll's reading right, you can't locate a COM antenna in
> the wingtip, because the COM frequencies (or is it the
> transmitters/receivers?) require vertical polarization. NAV frequencies are
> set up for horizontal polarization...that's why all the NAV antennas are
> mounted horizontally (and can fit into the wingtip) and why COM antennas are
> mounted vertically.
>
> If anyone has a successful wingtip installation for the COM. I'd love to
> know about it since I'm planning antenna location now. So far, I think I'm
> going to do exactly what Bryan has done with his.
>
> Mark Dickens
> -8 Fuse being riveted
>
Mark, Bob Archer markets a wing-tip COM antenna even though he readily
admits the orientation is not optimal for COM operations. It is possible
to mount his antenna at about a 45 degree angle to vertical in the
standard RV wingtip which works fairly well but not as well as a
vertically oriented antenna. He produces the antenna in response to RV
crazies who are willing to sacrifice COM performance so they can outrun
their composite buddies.
You can find a link to an article by Mr. Archer here:
http://www,tvrvbg.org
Scroll down the page and look for the link to Bob's article in the left
margin.
This is a case where you have to decide whether the tradeoff for less
COM performance is worth having the antenna out of the breeze. For some
it is. :-)
I intend to try the COM antenna since it can be mounted in the right
hand tip without impacting the whip antenna I have on the turtledeck.
After using the tip antenna for awhile, I will make the decision on
whether or not to ditch the whip........and go faster! ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> The TIT in my "new" RV-4 seems a bit high. It is an IO-360 with about
> 60 hours total time and the cowling and baffling are in new condition.
> The TIT in 65-75% cruise is 390 to 410. Even at a low power cruise it
> runs 370-380. It has a new oil cooler and the oil temps are good at
> 180-190.
Jeff:
There was a recent discussion on cylinder temperatures that referenced Kent
Paser's book "Speed with Economy" In the book Paser explains the importance
of the dimensions of the exit opening in the cylinder barrel and head
baffles that wrap around the cooling fins. I found that a relatively minor
change of closing up the baffles on a cool cylinder .125 or so raised the
temp about 15-20 degrees. I would think these baffles should also fit the
barrell and cylinder fins well to improve cooling effciency.
I have about 1.0 inch barrel gaps and 2.0 inch head gaps and see normal
cruise temps of around 320 and hottest cylinder extended climb temp in the
area of 415. O-320/CS prop in RV-4.
Hope this helps.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt? |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> > Found this on the EAA Homebuilder site... It has some good information
> > I think...
> >
> > A Wood Propeller For Your Homebuilt?
> > Sport Aviation - 1/91
> > Tony Bingelis
> >
> > A wood propeller for your homebuilt may be safer than a modified metal
> > prop. Certainly one could be more readily available and less expensive,
> > too. Want to hear more?
> >
>
> Although this was an interesting article, I don't see that a wood prop is
> better than metal for us RVers. There are so many negatives for wood props,
> such as those listed in this article, that I chose a metal prop. The
> article discussed cutting off tips, etc. that we don't have to do because we
> can get Sensenich fixed pitch props that are made for our RVs. Given the
> choice, I picked the Sensenich in a heartbeat. It didn't take me long to
> figure out that there was more work, and probably more expense in the long
> run, with a wooden prop. I've not regretted my choice. A fellow RVer
> friend of mine has bought several of the good named wooden props for testing
> and has finally decided for himself that the Sensenich is the one for him,
> also. He's sold all of his wooden props that were just like new.
>
> I realize your prop choice is a big decision for you; but, I remember a
> fella I met at a fly-in who told me to pick a metal prop for mine. He said
> that by the time he was satisfied with his wooden prop, he'd already spent
> more in wooden props to easily fund that Sensenich metal prop. That's what
> really made me seriously think about the metal prop.
>
> Fellas, if you have to have that wooden prop, buy it. If you have to have
> it repitched, realize that's done by taking off more wood. That bothers me;
> but, it may not bother you. However, if you're so bent on performance that
> you have to buy more props to get it just right, or you have to cut one down
> more to get that special twist, why not buy a constant speed prop? Now,
> that's the cat's meow. :-)
>
> Obviously, these are only my opinions and have no technical merit. I will
> allow this one to archive, though, because the original note was. A
> rebuttle should be made in the archives for future prop purchasers, I guess.
> It's much better than seeing our personal notes to each other archived.
> (Yeah, even I accidentally do it, from time totime. :-) )
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
Jim,
Most of the good prop carvers can hit it first try these
days if you give them accurate info about engine, airframe,
mission (cruise or climb), etc.
The worst thing about wood (to me) is the rain issue; even
with leading edge treatment you must back off quite a bit in
rain.
The up side is minimal risk of crank damage if you have an
'incident' during testing (read 'builder's flight
training'), and you don't have that pesky 2600 rpm
restriction on the 160 hp Sen. prop. Assuming acro is in the
cards, I'd be unhappy having to watch my tach instead of the
ground on the back side of a loop.
If ya gotta have metal, then I agree with paragraph 3 above:
at 2 grand for a fixed pitch metal, why not just get a used
constant speed?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
> Jeff Ludwig's -8 has the whiskers mounted back in the tail, UNDER the HS,
> right around the tailwheel spring mount area. The antennae are hardly
> noticeable back there and pose no potential for eyeball removal while
> walking around the tail of the airplane.
That's where mine is -- about 12" forward of where the tailwheel exits the
fuselage, whiskers pointed back. Have it hooked to a VOR/GS splitter, so the
same antenna's used for both. I don't fly much IFR but I do use it to keep
current and no problems shooting ILSs with this set-up.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
when you are flying thru the mountains near Jackson Hole and Salt Lake
Center drops you off flight following and a friendly commercial flight is
relaying your messages, that debatable speed increase may seem foolish.
It's like with those glue-on canopy antennas, people will say "hey, I can
hear the tower 20 miles away", great, if all you do is fly the pattern.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Altitude reporting |
David Carter wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
> To:
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Faulty Altitude reporting
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > > Bob . . .
> > >
> > >Ok, Bob. Can you point me to IC data sheets (receiver/demodulator) that
> > >would make it easy to
> > >"roll your own"? Once I have a demodulated signal, it shouldn't be hard
> to
> > >catch, decode the
> > >gray codes and display the result.
> > >
> > >Finn
> >
> > I'm not aware of any easy receiver chips although there
> > may be some. The Airsport uses transmission line filters
> > driving a discrete detector driving some gain. The
> > "demodulator" is a 68HC705 microcontroller programmed
> > to recognize and decode the transponder's reply stream
> > in addition to managing all the GUI features.
> >
> > Here's a breakdown on the decoding task for
> > the microprocessor:
> >
> > http://www.airsport-corp.com/modec.htm
> > http://www.airsport-corp.com/modecascii.txt
> >
> > I think you'd find it MUCH less expensive to
> > buy the gizmo already built . . .
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
> Bob and all,
>
> I thought someone else would have brought this up - See April 1998
> Kitplanes, pp 20-23, "Aero 'Lectrics" "Here's how to check altitude encoders
> via the Karmic connection." by Jim Weir.
>
> Partial quotes: "What I needed was a practical way to test the encoder. If
> that ... proved to be within tolerance, then by process of elimination it
> would be the altimeter that was out of tolerance. I needed a way to read
> the digital code that the encoder was transmitting and compare it to a known
> good altimeter. . . . three problems [to solve]. One, how do I simulate
> changes of altitude without actually flying the little rascal? Two, how do
> I read the code and compare it to a known good code? Three, how do I
> connect it all together so that I only have to make this setup once for my
> encoder and then can use it for anybody's encoder."
>
> He then procedes to design and illustrate a nice test box. Gives Table1,
> Altitudes of 100 & 400 feet and corresponding codes for A B C data lines A1
> A2 A4 B1 B2 B4 C1 C2 C4 and Table 2, Altitudes of 2800-3200 and codes for
> A1 A2 A4 B1 B2 B4.
>
> Final info in article: "Finally, As the nine three-colored LEDs that Weir
> used to make it easy to distinguish the A, B and C data lines are not
> generally available in the Radio Shack catalog, RST (Weir's company) offers
> a "Sorta-Kit" arrangement, where RST supplies the LEDs and lenses, the
> switch, the wire, the Karmic connector set, and the front panel artwork.
> The builder supplies the Radio Shack specified case and does the drilling of
> the case. RST's catalog number is RST-7301, and the parts sell for $25 plus
> shipping. Call RST Engineering at 530/272-2203 or sales@rst-eng.com"
>
> David Carter
David,
Looking at the output of the *altitude encoder* is a piece of cake. Looking at
the actual output from the Transponder is something entirely different. You need
to tune into and "demodulate" a 1 GHz signal. Even if the Transponder signal is
amplitude modulated and the signal strength near the transponder antenna may be
quite high -- still it's quite a different challenge than just measuring 0 and
12 Volt DC. I had hoped that the technology (chips - ICs) used in cell phones
might make the job easier.
I really like the idea of being able to monitor the Transponder output.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks Brian and Dick for the quick suggestions.
I have no idea how CHT became TIT? I think my Netscape spelling checker
must have jumped in taken over. (And Brian, I think the spell checker
changed your reference to a hot arid climate to a sopapilla.)
I'll have the cowl off tomorrow and try to take some of the dimensions
for comparison purposes.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Fellow RV'ers, I am interested in building the RST audio panel. I
checked the archives and found some dissatisfied customers, but the last
post was almost 2 yrs ago. Has anyone had any recent experience with
them? Do they support there products? How well do they work?
Wayne
RV-8a qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
Hello
I'm a Dutch RV8 builder
My plane is finished and I'm in the paperwork stage, hoping to fly end
of April
Taxiing I am doing all the time already.
I'll be at Sun and Fun and we have some instruction from Mike Seager
there too.
Are there people in the vicinity willing to show me their -8,giving
advice, and maybe a ride?
Arnold de Brie
The Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plastic gas cans |
Does anyone know what the NASCAR teams do re: static hazard. they seem to
be doing all their fueling with cans and splashing it in as fast as is
inhumanly possible. I know that much of thier racing is done inthe SE where
there is more humidity, but some races are in more arid environments.
d. wayne stiles---generally lurking
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RST engineering |
"Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
>
>
> Fellow RV'ers, I am interested in building the RST audio panel. I
> checked the archives and found some dissatisfied customers, but the last
> post was almost 2 yrs ago. Has anyone had any recent experience with
> them? Do they support there products? How well do they work?
>
> Wayne
> RV-8a qb
>
The older versions (a friend has one in his C-182) require
switching to 'comm mode' to transmit which kills the
intercom function. I suppose that a separate intercom would
solve that problem. He might have updated that circuit in
the new ones.
I've built one of their headsets & one of their intercoms.
They were well designed & rugged. The headset was my
favorite (comfort & audio quality) over 3 other high quality
headsets until my wife claimed it. It was her favorite until
we bought 2 Lightspeeds last year.
It's important to remember that with a kit product, the
level of expertise of the person building the kit can have a
major influence on his satisfaction with the product.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LDean97765(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ILS/VOR Antenna |
Thank you for all of the responses.
Bob Dean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST engineering |
>
> "Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
> >
<commando@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > Fellow RV'ers, I am interested in building the RST audio panel. I
> > checked the archives and found some dissatisfied customers, but the last
> > post was almost 2 yrs ago. Has anyone had any recent experience with
> > them? Do they support there products? How well do they work?
> >
> > Wayne
> > RV-8a qb
> >
> The older versions (a friend has one in his C-182) require
> switching to 'comm mode' to transmit which kills the
> intercom function. I suppose that a separate intercom would
> solve that problem. He might have updated that circuit in
> the new ones.
>
Mine does have a built-in intercom. It works very well. The whole set-up
is so inexpensive that I was looking at it as pretty much free. If it
didn't work well I was going to a PS Engineering intercom.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST engineering |
I too have been interested in the RST unit.
Question: Does the intercom permit passenger to hear transmission to ATC... or
(as in older intercoms), is the co-pilot cut off when pilot mike is keyed?
Bob
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> >
> > "Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
> > >
> <commando@cox-internet.com>
> > >
> > > Fellow RV'ers, I am interested in building the RST audio panel. I
> > > checked the archives and found some dissatisfied customers, but the last
> > > post was almost 2 yrs ago. Has anyone had any recent experience with
> > > them? Do they support there products? How well do they work?
> > >
> > > Wayne
> > > RV-8a qb
> > >
> > The older versions (a friend has one in his C-182) require
> > switching to 'comm mode' to transmit which kills the
> > intercom function. I suppose that a separate intercom would
> > solve that problem. He might have updated that circuit in
> > the new ones.
> >
>
> Mine does have a built-in intercom. It works very well. The whole set-up
> is so inexpensive that I was looking at it as pretty much free. If it
> didn't work well I was going to a PS Engineering intercom.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N.Y. EAA 486 Calander for 2002 |
Looking forward to flying in. Last year everyone was walking.
Gary Gembala
Strongsville, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST engineering |
>
> I too have been interested in the RST unit.
> Question: Does the intercom permit passenger to hear transmission to
ATC... or
> (as in older intercoms), is the co-pilot cut off when pilot mike is keyed?
> Bob
>
I'm not absolutely certain the passenger can hear, but no one has mentioned
that they can not.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Mark,
I have what I consider to be a successful com antenna installation in the wing
tip of my -6. Theory of course says that it won't work, but it does work and
quite well. Once in a while I'll find a weak spot but just lifting a wing
slightly fixes it. Of course I had similar problems in my Stinson with the
antennas on top so I can't necessarily blame the antenna for that. Bob wants to
do some serious testing using my installation and I'll let the list know the
results.
However, whatever the tests show I'm keeping my antenna - I love it.
Dave -6 So Cal
"Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
> If anyone has a successful wingtip installation for the COM. I'd love to
> know about it since I'm planning antenna location now. So far, I think I'm
> going to do exactly what Bryan has done with his.
>
> Mark Dickens
> -8 Fuse being riveted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Delaware Corp for Registry |
For those interested, you can go to the Delaware Registry, Ltd at http://delreg.com or email them at corp@delreg.com. It tells all.
BFK
----- Original Message -----
From: mitchf(at)netscape.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Delaware Corp for Registry
What state do you live in?
Also, my understanding is that a Deleware corp costs about $75/year
(plus yearly paperwork requirements to maintain your corporate status),
is that correct?
Mitch Faatz San Mateo, CA RV-6A Finish Kit
Karen Gooding wrote:
>
>We formed a Delaware corp and registered all our planes to it when the
>county billed us over $2,000 a year for property tax on a 1948 PA-17 and
>1961 Skyhawk. Oklahoma City reports the addresses of a/c registrations
to
>the states, the counties get the info in turn and send out property tax
>bills. We have had the Delaware corp for about 6 years now, works exactly
>as advertised. Costs about $75 a year to maintain it. With the RV-6 and
>J-3S added to the fleet I figure our savings around $5,000 a year.
>
>Karen Gooding
>The Bucking Bar Queen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry rush" <k9hxt(at)msn.com> |
Has anyone had experience with a paint shop in Urbana, Ohio called Air Cover,Inc.??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Dave,
Thanks for the feedback. Can you tell us some details of your installation?
I'm also building a -6.
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna placement for RV-8
>
> Mark,
>
> I have what I consider to be a successful com antenna installation in the
wing
> tip of my -6. Theory of course says that it won't work, but it does work
and
> quite well. Once in a while I'll find a weak spot but just lifting a wing
> slightly fixes it. Of course I had similar problems in my Stinson with the
> antennas on top so I can't necessarily blame the antenna for that. Bob
wants to
> do some serious testing using my installation and I'll let the list know
the
> results.
> However, whatever the tests show I'm keeping my antenna - I love it.
>
> Dave -6 So Cal
>
> "Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
>
> > If anyone has a successful wingtip installation for the COM. I'd love to
> > know about it since I'm planning antenna location now. So far, I think
I'm
> > going to do exactly what Bryan has done with his.
> >
> > Mark Dickens
> > -8 Fuse being riveted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulkhead fittings |
Bob,
Put me on your list of 100 buyers of the new weldment (and some fire putty
to go with it if you "kit" it)
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Bulkhead fittings - Carbon Firewalls
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> You and me too my friend. Some time ago, one of my builders cited a
connector he said was recommended by Lancair
> for firewall penetration that turned out to be an AMP circular
plastic . . .
>
> I had some issues to thrash on the Bonanza a few years ago that took me
over to the production line and I noticed
> what I thought was a rather elegant approach to firewall penetration
for wire bundles.
>
> There was an L-shaped piece of stainless tubing . . . I would guess
about 1" in diameter and having
> legs just long enough to accommodate the 90" bend allowances. One end
of the leg was
> welded to a piece of stainless sheet about 2" square that mounted to
the firewall with
> four bolts (didn't notice if there was a gasket under the flange . . .
might be a good place
> to squish a small o-ring of fire-putty).
>
> The other leg of the weldment had a hose-bead formed into the tube.
Wires were brought through
> this fitting and through a piece of firesleeve with the appropriate
i.d. to fit the weldment.
>
> The piece of firesleeve was about 6" long. When all of the wires were
routed, the firesleeve
> was clamped to the weldment with a stainless worm-drive hose clamp. Two
more clamps closed the
> firesleeve down on the wire bundle AFTER the open volume was injected
with fire putty.
>
> I considered offering this weldment and kit of firesleeve and clamps
to the amateur built
> industry . . . had a couple of houses quote the weldment here in
Wichita . . . I think the
> least expensive was about $75. Seems like I ought to be able to do
better but that project
> has never worked its way up to the top in a big list of other projects
. . . got any ideas/
> sources that could do better. I kind think a 100-lot order of that part
should sell for
> $20 or less. I COULD consider investing in the project then.
>
> There are MS connectors made in stainless steel shells . . . but they
typically sell
> for 50-150 dollars a mated set.
> Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
What kind of range can you consistently transmit and receive with
that antenna? I'm going to have two comms, and I'm considering using
a wingtip antenna for one of them.
Kevin Horton
>
>Mark,
>
>I have what I consider to be a successful com antenna installation in the wing
>tip of my -6. Theory of course says that it won't work, but it does work and
>quite well. Once in a while I'll find a weak spot but just lifting a wing
>slightly fixes it. Of course I had similar problems in my Stinson with the
>antennas on top so I can't necessarily blame the antenna for that.
>Bob wants to
>do some serious testing using my installation and I'll let the list know the
>results.
>However, whatever the tests show I'm keeping my antenna - I love it.
>
>Dave -6 So Cal
>
>"Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
>
>> If anyone has a successful wingtip installation for the COM. I'd love to
>> know about it since I'm planning antenna location now. So far, I think I'm
>> going to do exactly what Bryan has done with his.
>>
>> Mark Dickens
> > -8 Fuse being riveted
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Bob Archer also sells a com antenna splitter that hooks 2 radios up for
receiving, and when you key a mike, a relay hooks the transmitting radio
straight through to the antenna.
Ed Holyoke
What kind of range can you consistently transmit and receive with
that antenna? I'm going to have two comms, and I'm considering using
a wingtip antenna for one of them.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
Dick, today we had the cowling off and looked carefully at the
baffling. First, it is in great shape, and the aluminum baffling is
very tight against the fins, and it wraps tightly around both the barrel
and the head fins.
I'm trying to understand your references to one inch and two inch gaps
in the baffling. The baffle material wraps around the barrel and the
head fins and looking up from the bottom I see about one or two inches
of uncovered fins. Is this the "gap" to which you are referring.
Indeed is appears that about one inch of barrel fin is not covered and
approximately two inches of head fins are uncovered. If this is the gap
you are referring to, I'll take an exact measurement tomorrow.
So I take it you suggest increasing this uncovered fin area before we do
anything to the cowl exit opening?
Thanks
Jeff Bertsch
mach25(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone ever put cowl flaps on their RV? Any pictures?
Does anyone offer a "kit" for a cowl flap?
Just asking...
Jeff Bertsch
mach25(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | aileron squeezing/unsqueezing |
"rocket-list(at)matronics.com"
Good Evening--
We conducted a little experiment at VNC with a RV-6 that had one of its
ailerons/flaps oversqeezed. The new wing drop was pretty remarkable and
unsafe. We taped the requisite 2x4 with blue masking tape and proceeded
to use it as an intermediator between the hammer and the aileron
trailing edge. Confirmed by digital caliper readings, we were able to
restore the trailing edge thickness of the aileron. There was no paint
chipping or other defects noted. The changes were not noticeable by
eye, but confirmed by feel and calipers. It's easy and quick to do and
very little change makes a marked difference in the air.
Boyd.
RV-Super6/IO-540/325 hp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Hello Yall
Vans newest RV8, the FADEC equiped DILBERT, has a cowl flap. A single large
door is cable
controlled and sits flush in the stock location when closed. I have several
pictures from Oshkosh
last year, but no way to put them on the net. At the time I wondered why
there was a cowl flap,
that when closed was not different than a stock cowl, if there was no
problem with high temps.
Maybe the FADEC testing is the sole reason??
Maybe someone on the list can get some picturesfor the list at Sun-n-fun.
George Meketa
RV8, IO360 52hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Flaps
>
> Has anyone ever put cowl flaps on their RV? Any pictures?
> Does anyone offer a "kit" for a cowl flap?
> Just asking...
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> mach25(at)swbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>>Has anyone ever put cowl flaps on their RV? Any pictures?
Does anyone offer a "kit" for a cowl flap? Just asking...
Yes: Dean Hall has one on his -4. Adds weight, complexity, building time
and not much effect, as I remember. There was a write up in Sport
Aviation May 1994. Boy, does that go back. That's the only one I've
seen. If it were that good an idea, you would see more of them.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder rivets |
Longeron Yolk works perfect for squeezing these rivets.
>
>
> What are people using for these rivets?
>
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/rudderrivets.jpg
>
> The plans call for using 3-4s, with CS4-4 flush blind rivets as optional.
> You only have that front hole to get a bucking bar into. I'm not adverse
to
> spending the extra time to put 3-4s in, if it can be done. For those who
> did use 3-4, any secrets?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Cooling and Cowl Flaps. Some observations. |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I was looking at Dean's cowl flap about a month ago and noted it moved
through a longer range than I expected. He said that when he got up to
"cruise speed" he could retract the cowl to a negative value, (I. E. shrink
the exit hole size) and the plane would go faster. I'm from Missouri and
couldn't verify this at the time; however I have verified at other times
that his plane is rather fast. It also has a balanced engine, with some
mods.
I have seen other RV-4s with shrunken inlet size which also were faster than
the average.
I did an experiment some years ago with reducing the size of my 6A inlet,
and the result was instant overheating!
The only lesson I learned from these meager experience was that the engine
cooling in 6s is quite different than in 4s. The fours run cooler. The
eights seem to be hotter running , more like the six than the four, which
is probably because the cowl is more like the six.
There are many variables in the Lycoming cooling equation. Some of the ones
I know about are: Oil coolers, inlet size, outlet size, airspeed, and how
well it is sealed. Inlet seal and deflectors on the face f the front
cylinders are also a big big factor in cooling effectiveness (and cooling
drag).
One last feces in the punch bowl of pondering. I have noted that 6As tend
to run cooler than 6a! Hmmm.
If Tracy would tell all his secrets, we would be a lot smarter on this
subject.
> From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 18:56:18 -0700
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cowl Flaps
>
>
>
>>> Has anyone ever put cowl flaps on their RV? Any pictures?
> Does anyone offer a "kit" for a cowl flap? Just asking...
>
> Yes: Dean Hall has one on his -4. Adds weight, complexity, building time
> and not much effect, as I remember. There was a write up in Sport
> Aviation May 1994. Boy, does that go back. That's the only one I've
> seen. If it were that good an idea, you would see more of them.
>
> Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cooling and Cowl Flaps. Some observations. |
I long ago got rid of that little paint scratching slot on my lower cowl for
the nose gear leg and opened it up to a large triangular shape that
encompassed most of the flat, underside portion of the scoop. From there it
was an easy step to make the portion behind the leg a cowl flap. Larry
ended up actually using the part I made on his -6. He claims it works well
on his trips to FL.
For other reasons I changed the inlets on my cowl to circles, smaller in
area than the "bow tie" inlets, and have had no cooling problems with my 160
hp (in OR). I also reduced the engine inlet size to 1 3/4" dia with no
problems, which actually surprised me. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron squeezing/unsqueezing |
Ouch! I just went out yesterday and "Squeezed" the right aileron to pick up
the left wing. So I may now have just the opposite problem, thanks for the
tip on "unsqueezing" if it becomes necessary..
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: aileron squeezing/unsqueezing
>
> Good Evening--
>
> We conducted a little experiment at VNC with a RV-6 that had one of its
> ailerons/flaps oversqeezed. The new wing drop was pretty remarkable and
> unsafe. We taped the requisite 2x4 with blue masking tape and proceeded
> to use it as an intermediator between the hammer and the aileron
> trailing edge. Confirmed by digital caliper readings, we were able to
> restore the trailing edge thickness of the aileron. There was no paint
> chipping or other defects noted. The changes were not noticeable by
> eye, but confirmed by feel and calipers. It's easy and quick to do and
> very little change makes a marked difference in the air.
>
> Boyd.
> RV-Super6/IO-540/325 hp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Location RV-8 |
Listers,
In response to the current thread on antennas on the RV-8, here's what I
did with great success. I have a Garmin 420 Comm1/GPS, an Apollo SL30
Comm2/NAV, a Garmin 327 Transponder, and a Garmin 340 Audio Panel with
Marker Beacon. I did want to reduce antenna drag and I did want the
appropriate spacing between antennas, but I did not want to sacrifice
range.
I talked with Bob Archer and was convinced his antennas, both Comm and
NAV, would do the job for the SL30 Comm2/NAV. So I put the VOR antenna
on the top flat portion inside of the right wingtip, grounding it
against the wingtip mounting nutplate strip. I also put the Marker
Beacon antenna along the bottom side. I mounted the Comm 2 antenna in
the left wingtip. To get the vertical polarization, I mounted it on the
bottom side, again grounding against the wingtip mounting nutplate
strip, but I bonded red hard foam triangles in three places under the
outer antenna strip to make it vertical. Since I also mounted my strobe
power packs in the wingtips, I followed Archer's suggestion and used his
routing holddowns for the wires going to the strobe lights across the
antennas with an initial loop going forward. Results: I have no noise
in the radios from the strobes, I have talked on the Comm2 radio with
other aircraft 135 miles away, I get VOR tracking at very long distances
according to altitude, I get normal ILS tracking, and I get normal
Marker Beacon display and sound.
For the transponder blade antenna and the Comm1 bent whip antenna I
wanted the advertised 36" spacing, so I mounted the transponder antenna
under the rear seat just in front of the baggage bulkhead and the Comm1
whip under the front seat just aft of the main spar. I mounted my
Garmin GPS antenna 1" under the cowl on a 90* bracket on the firewall
slightly left of center. Results: I have also talked with aircraft 135
miles away, I have not had any reports of not picking up my transponder,
and my GPS has great reception.
So, I have all the suggested spacing between antennas, no noise in my
radios, great range, and only one whip out in the wind. Seems to work
for me.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX, Flying
RV-8, 78TX, Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Hello Yall
Something not mentioned on the cylinder head temps is the mixture. What
procedure was used and what type of instument is being used to check
the temps. Is the 390 to 410 obtained 100 rich of peak EGT or 50 lean of
peak EGT? If so, how much higher than the 410 do the CHT's go when
at peak EGT. If at peak EGT what do the CHT's do when the engine is
run richer or leaner. They should go down.
Today my IO360 RV8 cruised at 300-330 CHT (all 4 cylinders), 50F. lean
of peak EGT, 2500/22, at 9500 ft, burning 9 gph. If ran 100 rich of peak I
get similar CHT readings with a slight increase in speed and
unproportionally
higher fuel burn. I have never cruised at peak EGT, but will fly tomorrow
morning and record the CHT readings at peak EGT when leaning and again
after a few minutes of cruise at peak . I feel they may be in the high 300's
or even hit 400.
Louvers have helped several Texas IO360 RV8s that had high oil
temps. I am unsure if they also had high CHT's which louvers helped to
control. With no louvers I have seen 210F oil temp on long climbs and 220F
during prolonged slow flight practice. Temps always quickly fall to the 180
to 200 range in normal flight. So far I am very happy with all temps but
will
see what happens when outside temperatures reach the 100's this summer.
George Meketa
RV8 52 hours
> The TIT in my "new" RV-4 seems a bit high. It is an IO-360 with about
> 60 hours total time and the cowling and baffling are in new condition.
> The TIT in 65-75% cruise is 390 to 410. Even at a low power cruise it
> runs 370-380. It has a new oil cooler and the oil temps are good at
> 180-190.
>
> Anyone have any clever suggestions for increasing cooling air flow
> and/or cowl exit area. Is there a calculation I can use to determine
> how much exit additional cowling exit area will be required to reduce
> the TIT by 10 degrees? Or is it strictly trial and error? Has anyone
> ever tried louvers? If so where did you place them?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Bertsch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cooling and Cowl Flaps. Some observations. |
chuck price ,
"bill weakley (home)" ,
"bill weakley (work)"
Kevin, I assume by "engine inlet" you mean the air intake for the
carburetor. So the engine breathes through a 1 3/4 inch hole. Wow.
Was this a significant drag reduction/speed increase?
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
===========
> I long ago got rid of that little paint scratching slot on my lower cowl for
> the nose gear leg and opened it up to a large triangular shape that
> encompassed most of the flat, underside portion of the scoop. From there
it
> was an easy step to make the portion behind the leg a cowl flap. Larry
> ended up actually using the part I made on his -6. He claims it works well
> on his trips to FL.
> For other reasons I changed the inlets on my cowl to circles, smaller
in
> area than the "bow tie" inlets, and have had no cooling problems with my
160
> hp (in OR). I also reduced the engine inlet size to 1 3/4" dia with no
> problems, which actually surprised me. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external voltage regulator?? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys.
Has anyone tried to modify the Nippon Denso 40 A alternator (like the one
sold by Bart Lalonde, Niagara, etc.) to disable the internal regulator
and use an external regulator? It's my understanding that B&C does this,
balances the rotor a bit better, and then charges a handsome fee for the
service. In the great homebuilders' tradition of "roll yer own" I'm
wondering why not do it yourself? I know most people just keep the
internal regulator and add external O.V. protection, but this adds
weight/parts count and I'd rather use the external regulator (I recently
purchased a good used B&C voltage regulator with built in O.V. protection
& low voltage warning built in). I really like the Nippon units for
their light weight and great reputation but I'm too cheap to pay the
premium B&C wants for it. If anyone is aware of a stock externally
regulated 40 A alternator that is just as LIGHT and as the Nippon units,
I would also consider going with something else. But I believe that Vans
unit and Mark Landoll's unit are bigger and heavier and I'm counting
ounces here : )
By the way....just for reference....Tim Lewis has an example on his
website of how to modify a 60 A alternator off a Mazda 323 that he bought
used for $40. This is what I'd like to do with the 40 A Nippon
alternator. Go to Tim's homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
and click on the "Alternator Modification" link on the low left side of
the page....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
RST audio panel worked great for me, still does, as does the marker beacon.
You want to make sure your soldering skills are good.
My only complaint was that to intercom volume could be increased, but I just
bought a pair of lightspeed 20xwhatever ANR headsets, and wow, panel vol is
good, and the airplane is now very quite.
But, do the RST because you want to play with it. You can buy a used panel
for similar $$$.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh from Cal |
Wow,
got a lot of interest in folks heading to OSH from Calif.
I'm not sure if I want to fly in tight formation all the way there, but I
would like to take the same route others are taking. I figure you guys are
like cops, you know where all the good doughnut stands are.
Is there a common or preferred route and layover spot with cheap fuel, good
food and clean sheets that folks tend to use when coming from the left
coast?
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron squeezing/unsqueezing |
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> Ouch! I just went out yesterday and "Squeezed" the right aileron to pick up
> the left wing. So I may now have just the opposite problem, thanks for the
> tip on "unsqueezing" if it becomes necessary..
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: aileron squeezing/unsqueezing
>
> >
> > Good Evening--
> >
> > We conducted a little experiment at VNC with a RV-6 that had one of its
> > ailerons/flaps oversqeezed. The new wing drop was pretty remarkable and
> > unsafe. We taped the requisite 2x4 with blue masking tape and proceeded
> > to use it as an intermediator between the hammer and the aileron
> > trailing edge. Confirmed by digital caliper readings, we were able to
> > restore the trailing edge thickness of the aileron. There was no paint
> > chipping or other defects noted. The changes were not noticeable by
> > eye, but confirmed by feel and calipers. It's easy and quick to do and
> > very little change makes a marked difference in the air.
> >
> > Boyd.
> > RV-Super6/IO-540/325 hp
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N474ES moved |
happy easter everyone.
below is the link to the pixs i just uploaded, from the move to the airport
yesterday. enjoy
scott
tampa
hangered
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27RV
-6A/moving+to+POK&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&
.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst%3f.dir=/Scott%2b
Reviere%2527RV-6A%26.src=gr%26.view=t
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Private room available for SNF |
Does anyone need a place to stay at SNF?
We have reserved a room in a private home located in Plant
City, less than 10 mi from LAL. It's probably closer than
any of the motels in Lakeland, & less expensive as well.
Unfortunately, we won't be able to attend.
It's 1 bedroom w/private bath for $45 per night. I promised
the owner that I'd try to find a replacement for us.
If you are interested, email me privately & I'll put you in
touch with the owner.
Charlie England
cengland(at)netdoor.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
I sent Jim Weir at RST an email about his audio panels. His response is below.
note that he basically says "it works the way pilots would want" -- IMHO.
This answer was in response to a question about the entire audio panel, not
just the intercom.
-Joe
From: "Jim Weir" <jim@rst-engr.com>
> When either pilot or copilot PTT is activated, the intercom is disabled but
> everybody hears the sidetone from the transmission. If pilot pushes PTT,
> copilot mic is disabled. If copilot pushes PTT, pilot mic is disabled. If
> both push at the same time, pilot mic takes priority.
>
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com |
Scott, Can't get there, says restricted..
Doug
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: N474ES moved
happy easter everyone.
below is the link to the pixs i just uploaded, from the move to the airport
yesterday. enjoy
scott
tampa
hangered
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27
RV
-6A/moving+to+POK&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&
.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst%3f.dir=/Scott%
2b
Reviere%2527RV-6A%26.src=gr%26.view=t
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: N474ES moved |
Same here, too.
Got it to open by clicking on "Photos" on the left side...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: N474ES moved
>
> Scott, Can't get there, says restricted..
> Doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: N474ES moved
>
>
> happy easter everyone.
> below is the link to the pixs i just uploaded, from the move to the
airport
> yesterday. enjoy
> scott
> tampa
> hangered
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27
> RV
>
> -6A/moving+to+POK&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&
>
.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst%3f.dir=/Scott%
> 2b
>
> Reviere%2527RV-6A%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | JPI Slimline manifold pressure gage |
I'd like to add a manifold pressure gage to my RV-3, but all of my panel
space is pretty much occupied. I figure I could find a place for the JPI
Slimline, but they look pricey. Any pro/con on the JPI Slimline?
Thanks,
Randy Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear |
My nosegear fairing is nearly done. I have not drilled the holes for a
towbar. I was wondering if anyone with a nosedragger foresaked the holes
and wish they had put them in. I have seen numerous 6A/8As at flyins being
moved by hand through the grass via the prop without a lot of effort.
Don Mack don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
-------------------------------------
Hi Don
Put the holes in now while it is easy. It is very difficult to push the
aircraft backwards (as into hangar) without a tow bar.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear |
In a message dated 3/31/2002 6:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> How do you get the nose gear fairing on and off without the holes in the
> side? The tow bar clamps to the hex screws in the sides that hold on the
> nose gear fairing.
>
> Paul Besing
>
I was wondering the same thing, Paul. And now that my new pressure recovery
wheel pants are ready for installation, I have noticed that the old tow bar
isn't nearly wide enough to fit over the new pant shape. I suppose the
vendor (I have forgotten where this tow bar came from - someone on the list
makes them) now makes a wider model. By now, I should be handy enough to
modify the old one all by myself.
Bill B
RV-6A - 4 years of building and 4 years of maintenance and I'm baffled by a
towbar... almost never, ever use it anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | JPI Slimline manifold pressure gage |
JPI? Oh oh, you open big bad can of worms.
Check the archives. Most RV-listers are *adamantly* opposed to using thier
stuff, for what they tried/did do to Matt (the host of this list).
ACS carries a line of smaller digital tachs you might look into.
Rob Acker (RV-6, just say no to JPI).
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Compton
> Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 4:19 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: JPI Slimline manifold pressure gage
>
>
> I'd like to add a manifold pressure gage to my RV-3, but all of my panel
> space is pretty much occupied. I figure I could find a place for the JPI
> Slimline, but they look pricey. Any pro/con on the JPI Slimline?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N474ES moved |
Scott,
That is a pretty airplane you have there. Are you sure you want to get bugs
on? I met some black fly's a while back.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: N474ES moved
>
> happy easter everyone.
> below is the link to the pixs i just uploaded, from the move to the
airport
> yesterday. enjoy
> scott
> tampa
> hangered
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst?.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27
RV
>
> -6A/moving+to+POK&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&
>
.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst%3f.dir=/Scott%
2b
>
> Reviere%2527RV-6A%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N474ES moved |
if you see the paint up close, you'll see the bugs in the paint. everytime i
was spraying, flys, mosquitos, nats, etc... always ended up in the paint. so
they are already there. thanks for the compliment.
happy easter
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI Slimline manifold pressure gage |
> Any pro/con on the JPI Slimline?
Just say NO to slimeball business practices. NO JPI in my RV!
Tim "JPI sucks" Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FSmith9890(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I can confirm that the wingtip antennas work fine for both the VOR-LOC & GS
reception. Have had in current RV-4 for nine years a comm whip in each
wingtip, one for the NAV input, the other for the GS. Used the comm whips
because I had them, they were easy to mount, and had a nice connection for
the coax. In a previous plane one whip was used for both the VOR & GS with a
diplexer. Since these are receiving antennas only they don't have to be
perfectly matched. An approximate 1/4 wavelength, about 24 inches can be
made from heavy wire, copper tape, aluminum tubing, etc. The comm antennas
are a little short for the NAV frequencies, but it doesn't seem to matter.
Van has a kit with the tape, connectors, and coax for $35.
The "Cat whiskers" dipole on the tail is not necessary. It may have been
years ago when our radios were not as sensitive.
Incidentally the wingtips also have strobes, nav lights, and landing lights.
Doesn't seem to affect the LOC- GS reception. FWIW Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith and Jean Williams" <kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Conversion |
After 180 flying hours with my old-fashioned floor mounted rudder pedals I
am thinking about changing to the hanging pedals.
I know that Van offers a kit for this change. After a fair bit of searching
the archives I have not been able to find a good description of how tough a
job it is to make the change on a finished RV6.
If someone out there has experience with doing this could give me an idea
about how tough the conversion is, or if someone could direct me to a good
reference about it I would appreciate it. I am especially wondering if the
"Van's" prop governer box I have installed in the firewall will create a
problem somehow.
I can imagine how much fun its going to be - climbing in and out to get
forgotten tools, riveting with my feet in the air, reworking my beautiful
heater/defroster design, etc., etc. But I sure would like to stretch out my
toes under those pedals.
Keith Williams
RV6 (early, slow builder), Moline, Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | JPI Slimline manifold pressure gauge |
>>I'd like to add a manifold pressure gage to my RV-3, but all of my
panel
space is pretty much occupied. I figure I could find a place for the
JPI
Slimline, but they look pricey. Any pro/con on the JPI Slimline?
Well, I had to laugh. I wrote this:
OOOoooo. Can of worms.
right after seeing the initial post and didn't send it right away
because I needed to add to it. Then Rob writes the same thing.
I can't even stand to see their ads in the trade magazines. There are
many other gauges I would use, including a cork with a wire on it,
before I would have JPI anything in my airplane. The world of aviation
is too small to treat your fellow merchants/manufacturers with
disrespect.
Bottom line: I would suggest some other gauge. Any other gauge. Having
nothing would be better than having JPI.
IMHO
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cooling and Cowl Flaps. Some observations. |
I wish I had a number for you as far as speed increases. Basically I am
trying a number of drag reductions and hopefully I will see an increase
(before my engine wears out!) I decided that I would go ahead with the
engine inlet change as much for looks as for speed. Originally I had it
extended to 1/4" behind the prop, but was able to get the engine to hiccup
in stalls, so cut it back. I have installed sailplane aileron gap tape over
my elevator and rudder gaps. I discovered today that they will vibrate real
loud at about 230mph, but that shouldn't be a problem (what? 210mph? not
210knots?:-) ). I can get 190mph at 7500' full throttle, 160hp, FP
Sensenich, Rose EI. On the other end I was showing less than 5 gal/hr at
130 kts, 7000' today. I am planning a 12hr non-stop flight this week on
route to SNF and will record data as I fly. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Conversion |
Hi Keith,
The biggest problem you might have is if you have the cabin air inlets on the
fuselage sides. They might interfere with the rudder pedal mounting blocks.
You might be able to grind some clearance into the blocks. This is a
judgment call for how much is to much. If the air inlets are high enough to
allow the pedal blocks to rest on the longeron half the battle is won. You
won't be able to get the pedals and blocks into position assembled. I don't
know what the retrofit instruction's call for but I would split both blocks.
I did this on my airplane just in case I ever have to remove the rudder pedal
assy. It would be a B**** to get the assy out with a block on the end. Also
you need a spacer to make up for the saw cut. You will need a small angle
drill for the mounting holes as they are really close to the fuselage skin.
The firewall recess is no problem the center support bracket is on the left
side of it.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 3/31/2002 6:10:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>
>
> kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net>
>
> After 180 flying hours with my old-fashioned floor mounted rudder pedals I
> am thinking about changing to the hanging pedals.
>
> I know that Van offers a kit for this change. After a fair bit of
> searching
> the archives I have not been able to find a good description of how tough a
> job it is to make the change on a finished RV6.
>
> If someone out there has experience with doing this could give me an idea
> about how tough the conversion is, or if someone could direct me to a good
> reference about it I would appreciate it. I am especially wondering if the
> "Van's" prop governer box I have installed in the firewall will create a
> problem somehow.
>
> I can imagine how much fun its going to be - climbing in and out to get
> forgotten tools, riveting with my feet in the air, reworking my beautiful
> heater/defroster design, etc., etc. But I sure would like to stretch out
> my
> toes under those pedals.
>
> Keith Williams
> RV6 (early, slow builder), Moline, Illinois
>
________________________________________________________________________________
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Antenna placement for RV-8 |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Can you tell me how much the splitter costs? (Sidenote: does Bob Archer
have a website? I looked in the Yeller pages and only found an e-mail
address and phone number). Is there any disadvantage to using this
device? There must be a downside or I can't see why anyone would use a
second antenna.....I suppose maybe there's a failure mode in the splitter
that could leave you with no antenna for either comm, or possibly toast
one of your radios if it doesn't work right?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass.....
Bob Archer also sells a com antenna splitter that hooks 2 radios up for
receiving, and when you key a mike, a relay hooks the transmitting radio
straight through to the antenna.
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nav antenna in cowl?? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Has anyone tried a nav antenna in the lower cowl of an RV? No doubt the
performance would be sub-optimal due to proximity to the engine (and
maybe some noise generated by the engine systems too??) but the wingtip
location doesn't appear optimal either, yet it works well according to
the testimonials about Bob Archer's antennas. I'm thinking if you ran
the antenna coax up to the top of where the air scoop attaches to the
cowl, and then bonded two metal strips angling outboard and aft along the
bottom cowl (forming a Vee-shape like most external VOR antennas) it
might work ok. Of course you'd have to disconnect the coax--perhaps at
the firewall or any convenient location--to take the bottom cowl off but
this would only take a second with the top cowl already removed.
I know, I'm crazy, but that's what a 4-day weekend of sanding fiberglass
does to you...the answer to the anticipated question of "why not just use
Bob Archer's wingtip antenna?" is that (1) I was stupid when building the
wings and didn't put in a conduit big enough to run both strobe wires AND
a coax, and (2) in an attempt to keep my old-style wingtips looking nice
and flat on top, I riveted some aluminum stiffeners at 6" intervals along
the top surface, which I expect would hopelessly screw up even the
best-engineered wingtip antenna.....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass and lovin' every
minute...gasp....wheeze....scratch scratch....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I bought the Deluxe Cessna Tow Bar from Aircraft Spruce. It was in the price
range. I is collapsible and is light even though made of steel.
Unfortunately it does not fit when the nose wheel fairing is on. It works
fine if you leave the nose wheel fairing off.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I understand that there is a tow bar available for about
$39 or so which is suitable for an RV6A.
I believe it is collapsible too.
I don't know the source....it may even be a Cessna bar which just happens to
fit an RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Crack found in part |
Purchasers of part VAF-MU-G from Vans Aircraft are warned that cracks have
been found in the handle of one item.
It is suggested that, although the part is designed to hold liquids up to
100C, the part failure may be due to inappropriate use of automated
cleansing mechanisms where high temperatures and caustic chemicals may have
damaged the component. Alternatively, the part may have been mishandled and
consequently overstressed. Vans Aircraft cannot comment further since the
failed part has not yet been returned to Vans Aircraft for analysis.
Concerned builders should NOT contact Vans Aircraft regarding this... Vans
will notify builders if any remedial action is needed.
Builders are cautioned NOT to incorporate the part into an aircraft. It is
also suggested that the part not be used whilst airborne, and under no
circumstances should it be used during aerobatics. Given that the part is
designed to contain hot liquids, builders are warned that failure of the
part may result in facial burns or other injuries.
Further, an immediate visual inspection of the part should be undertaken.
The failed part was cracked at the bottom of the handle. Magnafluxing is
not considered necessary. Vans has stress-tested samples to 150% of the
design load. Vanz will re-test selected samples to ensure that currently
supplied parts are still up to standard. It is stressed that there is no
failure of the ceramic coating of the part, so that there is no danger of
leakage.
FAA spokesman Loof Lipra declined to comment, saying that this part was
outside the jurisdiction of the FAA. The NTSB are said to be concerned, but
since no actual incident has occurred, will not be pursuing the matter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
>
> Can you tell me how much the splitter costs? (Sidenote: does Bob Archer
> have a website? I looked in the Yeller pages and only found an e-mail
> address and phone number). Is there any disadvantage to using this
> device? There must be a downside or I can't see why anyone would use a
> second antenna.....I suppose maybe there's a failure mode in the splitter
> that could leave you with no antenna for either comm, or possibly toast
> one of your radios if it doesn't work right?
>
*** The latter. A relay connecting two transmitters can have a failure mode
where one COM radio transmits directly into the other COM radio. zzzZZAP!
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I suggest anyone considering the viability of Bob Archer's antenna
splitter get in touch with the man himself. Mr. Archer seems to be a
pretty smart fellar and I bet you a bag of clecoes he has figured out
the potential failure modes and has this covered.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
====================
jerry(at)tr2.com wrote:
>
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
> >
> > Can you tell me how much the splitter costs? (Sidenote: does Bob Archer
> > have a website? I looked in the Yeller pages and only found an e-mail
> > address and phone number). Is there any disadvantage to using this
> > device? There must be a downside or I can't see why anyone would use a
> > second antenna.....I suppose maybe there's a failure mode in the splitter
> > that could leave you with no antenna for either comm, or possibly toast
> > one of your radios if it doesn't work right?
> >
> *** The latter. A relay connecting two transmitters can have a failure mode
> where one COM radio transmits directly into the other COM radio. zzzZZAP!
>
> - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | ?? What size capacitor on alternator |
I am in the process of tracing down some electrical noise in my radio and
want to install a capacitor on my alternator. I was wondering how many
microfarads it should be. I know AC$ sells them for about $40, but I can't
imagine how an automotive one could be inferior for about $10. So I guess 2
questions.
1)rating (microfarads)
2)am I iladvised to use automotive part.
Please reply to my email address, I only get the list digest and wouldn't
otherwise get your responses until tomorow. Thanks.
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tanks: Courage Needed (and a little info) |
Okay, it's just about That Time. Fuel tanks. I need some
courage and a little reassurance that I'm about to do this
right. This email is going to be a bit long as I explain where
I am and what my process will be. And there are a few
questions.
=== Current Status ===
One tank still needs the baffle drilled (a couple of hours).
Both tanks are otherwise fully drilled with ribs and baffle,
deburred, dimpled. The thin piece of aluminum is drilled
to the insides of the tip rib, and the thick aluminum angle
is drilled and clecoed to the root rib. The root ribs have
the reiniforcing circle of aluminum riveted in place. For
fitting purposes, I also screwed the capacity sender plate
into place on one of them, left it off on the other.
=== Immediate plans ===
I need to drill, deburr, etc the other baffle. I'm also going
to drill the fuel caps into place. I'll remove the fuel capacity
sender mounting plate from the one root rib.
Test-install the fuel senders to make sure that the bends
in the wires look right.
Install vent line.
=== Riveting Method ==
I'm going to use the "Pro Seal Now, Rivet Later" method.
Actually, I have the tank sealant Van's is shipping now -- I
don't think it's Pro Seal anymore. But same difference.
Directions:
1. Remove all the plastic from the insides of the skins.
2. Scuff the aluminum on the edges of the ribs and the
insides of the skins where they will meet. I'll use a scotchbrite
pad stolen from my kitchen unless this is bad.
3. Clean everythough thoroughly.
4. For each rib: apply liberal amount of sealant on rib and
slide into position. Cleco every single hole.
4a. Give the fuel caps similar treatment -- they'll be
riveted when the ribs are.
4b. Ditto the reinforcing aluminum mounted
on the tip/root ribs.
4c. I think I may also put a little sealant around the
vent line as it passes through each rib to act as clue.
5. Leave them for a week, even all the clecos.
6. When riveting, apply more sealant to hole from
the inside. Insert rivet and buck it.
7. Most clecos will clean fairly easily -- toss the rest.
8. Apply sealant to the ends of each rib and the insides
of the skins where baffle will go. Insert baffle and
cleco every hole. Let it sit for a week, too.
9. Pop-rivet baffle to ribs. Squeeze/buck baffle to skins.
10. Let sit another week or two then pressure test.
=== Questions ==
1. Someone in the archives suggested that he SQUEEZED
the rivets for the baffle. I'm assuming that you have to pop
rivet to the ribs but can squeeze to the skins if you have a
long enough yoke (I don't). Someone also mentioned that
you had access to all 4 sides of the baffle, but I don't have
a clue how you could arrange that. Can someone comment?
2. How can I tell "up" vs. "down" in the standard fuel senders
I got from Van's?
3. The drawing shows a "clip" for the vent line as riveted to
the fuel caps. I'm unclear about this -- can someone
comment?
Any and all comments are greatly appreciated. I feel like I'm
missing some MAJOR steps here or something, and it doesn't
seem like a process I want to get wrong.
Thanks.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Strange Oil P/T problem |
Hi,
Here is a strange problem that has me stumped.
When I push my PTT button, the readings on my EI Oil
Temp/Pressure instrument drop to zero and stay there.
When I release the PTT, they return to normal. None of
the other six EI instruments on my panel are affected.
When the readings change, there does not seem to be any
type of power problems. The unit is always lit up. EI
suggested that it might be an RF problem, but couldn't
tell for sure.
Any thoughts?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E, 10 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
I've used antenna relays on base station radios for years and found them to
be very reliable but yes, eventually they will fail. The biggest draw back
is that you can't tune one antenna to two different frequency's so you have
to split the difference which degrades you radio somewhat. If the relay
fails you won't be transmitting into the other radio but rather into an open
circuit which will cause the output circuit of your radio to burn up if it
is left keyed for too long.
Wayne
RV-8A qb
----- Original Message -----
From: <jerry(at)tr2.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna placement for RV-8
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
> >
> > Can you tell me how much the splitter costs? (Sidenote: does Bob Archer
> > have a website? I looked in the Yeller pages and only found an e-mail
> > address and phone number). Is there any disadvantage to using this
> > device? There must be a downside or I can't see why anyone would use a
> > second antenna.....I suppose maybe there's a failure mode in the
splitter
> > that could leave you with no antenna for either comm, or possibly toast
> > one of your radios if it doesn't work right?
> >
> *** The latter. A relay connecting two transmitters can have a failure
mode
> where one COM radio transmits directly into the other COM radio. zzzZZAP!
>
> - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh from Cal |
I recommend Tucumcari (TCC) cheap & easy. I make my first stop there, get
up early and fly the rest of the way to Florida (when I arrive it's still
early enough to take in dinner & a movie) when I visit relatives.
Chuck
ps - I resemble that doughnut remark.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh from Cal
>
> Wow,
>
> got a lot of interest in folks heading to OSH from Calif.
>
> I'm not sure if I want to fly in tight formation all the way there, but I
> would like to take the same route others are taking. I figure you guys are
> like cops, you know where all the good doughnut stands are.
>
> Is there a common or preferred route and layover spot with cheap fuel,
good
> food and clean sheets that folks tend to use when coming from the left
> coast?
>
> Wheeler
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Crack found in part |
Frank,
I have one of the parts in question but it has been powder coated
(presumably from
too many doughnuts ) and I cannot see the cracks. Are there replacements
available ?
Ed Cole
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Frank and Dorothy [SMTP:frankv(at)infogen.net.nz]
> Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 3:09 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Crack found in part
>
>
> Purchasers of part VAF-MU-G from Vans Aircraft are warned that cracks have
>
> been found in the handle of one item.
>
> It is suggested that, although the part is designed to hold liquids up to
> 100C, the part failure may be due to inappropriate use of automated
> cleansing mechanisms where high temperatures and caustic chemicals may
> have
> damaged the component. Alternatively, the part may have been mishandled
> and
> consequently overstressed. Vans Aircraft cannot comment further since the
> failed part has not yet been returned to Vans Aircraft for analysis.
> Concerned builders should NOT contact Vans Aircraft regarding this... Vans
>
> will notify builders if any remedial action is needed.
>
> Builders are cautioned NOT to incorporate the part into an aircraft. It is
>
> also suggested that the part not be used whilst airborne, and under no
> circumstances should it be used during aerobatics. Given that the part is
> designed to contain hot liquids, builders are warned that failure of the
> part may result in facial burns or other injuries.
>
> Further, an immediate visual inspection of the part should be undertaken.
> The failed part was cracked at the bottom of the handle. Magnafluxing is
> not considered necessary. Vans has stress-tested samples to 150% of the
> design load. Vanz will re-test selected samples to ensure that currently
> supplied parts are still up to standard. It is stressed that there is no
> failure of the ceramic coating of the part, so that there is no danger of
> leakage.
>
> FAA spokesman Loof Lipra declined to comment, saying that this part was
> outside the jurisdiction of the FAA. The NTSB are said to be concerned,
> but
> since no actual incident has occurred, will not be pursuing the matter.
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Thanks to all for the advice I received about seats... I have decided
to make my own seats with ConforFoam that I will get from Wicks (unless
I can find it cheaper before the end of the day)...
I sat in some seats yesterday that were done with three 1" layers of
ConforFoam; one stiff (green), one medium (blue), and soft (pink)...
They seemed very hard to me, even after my fat butt was on them for 10
minutes or so... Has anyone used the very soft (yellow) foam in their
seats? What say ye?
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external voltage |
regulator??
Mark,
FWIW When I was building my -8A I went to a local alternator specialty shop
and was able to get a Nippon Dienso 45 amp small case alternator that was
externally regulated. AS I and the plane are now about 2700 miles apart I
can't get you the part number, sorry. If I remember right though the
alternator came off an 80s something Honda Civic. Don't quote me on that
one. It was a factory fresh reman'ed unit for a total cost of $45. They
are out there.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external
>voltage regulator??
>Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 00:36:40 -0600
>
>
>Guys.
>
>Has anyone tried to modify the Nippon Denso 40 A alternator (like the one
>sold by Bart Lalonde, Niagara, etc.) to disable the internal regulator
>and use an external regulator? It's my understanding that B&C does this,
>balances the rotor a bit better, and then charges a handsome fee for the
>service. In the great homebuilders' tradition of "roll yer own" I'm
>wondering why not do it yourself? I know most people just keep the
>internal regulator and add external O.V. protection, but this adds
>weight/parts count and I'd rather use the external regulator (I recently
>purchased a good used B&C voltage regulator with built in O.V. protection
>& low voltage warning built in). I really like the Nippon units for
>their light weight and great reputation but I'm too cheap to pay the
>premium B&C wants for it. If anyone is aware of a stock externally
>regulated 40 A alternator that is just as LIGHT and as the Nippon units,
>I would also consider going with something else. But I believe that Vans
>unit and Mark Landoll's unit are bigger and heavier and I'm counting
>ounces here : )
>
>By the way....just for reference....Tim Lewis has an example on his
>website of how to modify a 60 A alternator off a Mazda 323 that he bought
>used for $40. This is what I'd like to do with the 40 A Nippon
>alternator. Go to Tim's homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
>and click on the "Alternator Modification" link on the low left side of
>the page....
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A finish kit stuff....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
>Purchasers of part VAF-MU-G from Vans Aircraft are warned that cracks have
>been found in the handle of one item.
>
>It is suggested that, although the part is designed to hold liquids up to
>100C, the part failure may be due to inappropriate use of automated
>cleansing mechanisms where high temperatures and caustic chemicals may
>have damaged the component. Alternatively, the part may have been
>mishandled and consequently overstressed. Vans Aircraft cannot comment
>further since the failed part has not yet been returned to Vans Aircraft
>for analysis. Concerned builders should NOT contact Vans Aircraft
>regarding this... Vans will notify builders if any remedial action is needed.
>
>Builders are cautioned NOT to incorporate the part into an aircraft. It is
>also suggested that the part not be used whilst airborne, and under no
>circumstances should it be used during aerobatics. Given that the part is
>designed to contain hot liquids, builders are warned that failure of the
>part may result in facial burns or other injuries.
>
>Further, an immediate visual inspection of the part should be undertaken.
>The failed part was cracked at the bottom of the handle. Magnafluxing is
>not considered necessary. Vans has stress-tested samples to 150% of the
>design load. Vanz will re-test selected samples to ensure that currently
>supplied parts are still up to standard. It is stressed that there is no
>failure of the ceramic coating of the part, so that there is no danger of
>leakage.
>
>FAA spokesman Loof Lipra declined to comment, saying that this part was
>outside the jurisdiction of the FAA. The NTSB are said to be concerned,
>but since no actual incident has occurred, will not be pursuing the matter.
>Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
What diameter hole are you guys drilling in the wheelpants to fit the "average"
towbar?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
In a message dated 3/31/2002 6:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> How do you get the nose gear fairing on and off without the holes in the
> side? The tow bar clamps to the hex screws in the sides that hold on the
> nose gear fairing.
>
> Paul Besing
>
I was wondering the same thing, Paul. And now that my new pressure recovery
wheel pants are ready for installation, I have noticed that the old tow bar
isn't nearly wide enough to fit over the new pant shape. I suppose the
vendor (I have forgotten where this tow bar came from - someone on the list
makes them) now makes a wider model. By now, I should be handy enough to
modify the old one all by myself.
Bill B
RV-6A - 4 years of building and 4 years of maintenance and I'm baffled by a
towbar... almost never, ever use it anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external voltageregulator?? |
I was told you can place the B&C external voltage regulator in-line without
any modification to the alternator or its' internal voltage regulator. Is
that "incorrect"?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external
voltageregulator??
>
> Mark,
>
> FWIW When I was building my -8A I went to a local alternator specialty
shop
> and was able to get a Nippon Dienso 45 amp small case alternator that was
> externally regulated. AS I and the plane are now about 2700 miles apart I
> can't get you the part number, sorry. If I remember right though the
> alternator came off an 80s something Honda Civic. Don't quote me on that
> one. It was a factory fresh reman'ed unit for a total cost of $45. They
> are out there.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
> >From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Modifying 40 A Nippon Denso alternator for external
> >voltage regulator??
> >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 00:36:40 -0600
> >
> >
> >Guys.
> >
> >Has anyone tried to modify the Nippon Denso 40 A alternator (like the one
> >sold by Bart Lalonde, Niagara, etc.) to disable the internal regulator
> >and use an external regulator? It's my understanding that B&C does this,
> >balances the rotor a bit better, and then charges a handsome fee for the
> >service. In the great homebuilders' tradition of "roll yer own" I'm
> >wondering why not do it yourself? I know most people just keep the
> >internal regulator and add external O.V. protection, but this adds
> >weight/parts count and I'd rather use the external regulator (I recently
> >purchased a good used B&C voltage regulator with built in O.V. protection
> >& low voltage warning built in). I really like the Nippon units for
> >their light weight and great reputation but I'm too cheap to pay the
> >premium B&C wants for it. If anyone is aware of a stock externally
> >regulated 40 A alternator that is just as LIGHT and as the Nippon units,
> >I would also consider going with something else. But I believe that Vans
> >unit and Mark Landoll's unit are bigger and heavier and I'm counting
> >ounces here : )
> >
> >By the way....just for reference....Tim Lewis has an example on his
> >website of how to modify a 60 A alternator off a Mazda 323 that he bought
> >used for $40. This is what I'd like to do with the 40 A Nippon
> >alternator. Go to Tim's homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
> >and click on the "Alternator Modification" link on the low left side of
> >the page....
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A finish kit stuff....
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI vs. Dralle |
>
>Okay, I just spent about an hour digging through the archives, coming up
>to date on the JPI lawsuit issue. Messages were searchable (with some
>holes) through about July 99, then suddenly just stopped. Last I saw, JPI
>was maliciously pursuing the lawsuit, and people were doing things like
>wearing "no-JPI" tee-shirts to Oshkosh.
>
>Since returning to the building process, I see that Matt changed the name
>of his product -- I assume due to the legal actions. I'm wondering if
>someone could post a followup of some sort.
>
>I'm also wondering if we're all still sneering at their sales people when we
>see them, or if we just stay quiet and don't buy their products? Five years
>from now, my sense of justice says they should STILL have people saying,
>"Oh, you're the ones who..."
>
>Thanks for an update.
>
>-Joe
>
Joe,
There is a message from Matt in the archives on this matter. Nov.
12, 1999. Subject: JPI vs. Matronics Settlement Reached
Matt claimed to be satisfied with the way things ended up. I suspect
that his words were chosen on the advice of his lawyer though.
Personally, I'll never buy a JPI product because of the way they
treated him. If they were the only ones selling fuel gauges, I'd use
a cork float and a wire before I bought something from them.
Just my perspective - others will have different opinions.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear |
An RV-8 builder here; Ray Lynn -
http://eaa72.org/vafml/members/rlynn/index.htm built in some round
spring loaded holes in his wheel pants for checking air pressure...
They are neat as hell... I am planning on these for checking my air, as
well as fitting the tow bar... I will try to get some pix of his
tomorrow evening...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
What diameter hole are you guys drilling in the wheelpants to fit the
"average" towbar?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
In a message dated 3/31/2002 6:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> How do you get the nose gear fairing on and off without the holes in
> the side? The tow bar clamps to the hex screws in the sides that hold
> on the nose gear fairing.
>
> Paul Besing
>
I was wondering the same thing, Paul. And now that my new pressure
recovery wheel pants are ready for installation, I have noticed that the
old tow bar isn't nearly wide enough to fit over the new pant shape. I
suppose the vendor (I have forgotten where this tow bar came from -
someone on the list makes them) now makes a wider model. By now, I
should be handy enough to modify the old one all by myself.
Bill B
RV-6A - 4 years of building and 4 years of maintenance and I'm baffled
by a towbar... almost never, ever use it anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh from Cal |
Yep,
Chuck will definitely know where all the donut stands are. And all the
speed traps. Fly with him.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com]
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Oshkosh from Cal
I recommend Tucumcari (TCC) cheap & easy. I make my first stop there, get
up early and fly the rest of the way to Florida (when I arrive it's still
early enough to take in dinner & a movie) when I visit relatives.
Chuck
ps - I resemble that doughnut remark.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh from Cal
>
> Wow,
>
> got a lot of interest in folks heading to OSH from Calif.
>
> I'm not sure if I want to fly in tight formation all the way there, but I
> would like to take the same route others are taking. I figure you guys are
> like cops, you know where all the good doughnut stands are.
>
> Is there a common or preferred route and layover spot with cheap fuel,
good
> food and clean sheets that folks tend to use when coming from the left
> coast?
>
> Wheeler
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strange Oil P/T problem |
My Van's Manifold Pressure gage and Mac trim indicator also show strange
movements. This was talked about on the list awhile back. One strange fact
is that on certain frequencies they don't move?
Cash Copeland
RV6
Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 4/1/2002 8:40:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com writes:
>
> Hi,
> Here is a strange problem that has me stumped.
>
> When I push my PTT button, the readings on my EI Oil
> Temp/Pressure instrument drop to zero and stay there.
> When I release the PTT, they return to normal. None of
> the other six EI instruments on my panel are affected.
>
> When the readings change, there does not seem to be any
> type of power problems. The unit is always lit up. EI
> suggested that it might be an RF problem, but couldn't
> tell for sure.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E, 10 hours.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Bill,
I bought 2 sets of the 3 colors you have. I'm sitting on a piece of the
green at my computer desk. Have a full set of all 3 colors in my dining
room chair (which I use 3 times a day, at least). The other blue and pink
are in my car seat (all these are in pillow cases to protect them while
awaiting upholstery phase of my RV-6).
Stiffness - when cold - is common. I live in SE Texas where it hardly even
freezes. When gets to 40 degrees or so, all 3 layers are STIFF/HARD. My
butt warms them quickly (less than 5') However, in really cold weather, it
has been suggested to take cushions out of plane and store in warm place -
or keep in car that you drive to airport if the drive is long enough for the
foam to warm up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Subject: RV-List: Seats...
>
> Thanks to all for the advice I received about seats... I have decided
> to make my own seats with ConforFoam that I will get from Wicks (unless
> I can find it cheaper before the end of the day)...
>
> I sat in some seats yesterday that were done with three 1" layers of
> ConforFoam; one stiff (green), one medium (blue), and soft (pink)...
> They seemed very hard to me, even after my fat butt was on them for 10
> minutes or so... Has anyone used the very soft (yellow) foam in their
> seats? What say ye?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports |
Anyone out there using the Proprietary Software Systems Angle-of-Attack
product, where (% of chord) did you locate your pressure ports on the wing?
Thanks,
Rick Jory RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports |
I have the presure ports installed per the instructions for RV
"standard" wing. Here is the page on their website specifying where to
locate: http://www.angle-of-attack.com/FAQ.htm
It says...
Aircraft: RV 4, RV6, RV8
Wing span location: Middle of the outboard wing bay. Upper port 4 3/4"
and lower port 7 1/2" inboard of the wing skin outer end.
Wing chord location: 6" forward of the wing skin break about 12" aft of
the leading edge
Flap down switch: Closed by 1/3 thru full flaps
I can't tell you if it works or not since I'm not flying yet.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Jory [mailto:rickjory(at)msn.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
Anyone out there using the Proprietary Software Systems Angle-of-Attack
product, where (% of chord) did you locate your pressure ports on the
wing? Thanks, Rick Jory RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tanks: Courage Needed (and a little info) |
Joe,
Let me set you straight on a couple of things. I am the guy who lately
popularized the "Proseal now - rivet later" method, and it worked great.
Don't sweat the tanks...just take your time and they will be ok.
Read my responses to your steps and questions.
>From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tanks: Courage Needed (and a little info)
>Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 09:47:01 -0600
>
>
>Okay, it's just about That Time. Fuel tanks. I need some
>courage and a little reassurance that I'm about to do this
>right. This email is going to be a bit long as I explain where
>I am and what my process will be. And there are a few
>questions.
>
>=== Current Status ===
>
>One tank still needs the baffle drilled (a couple of hours).
>Both tanks are otherwise fully drilled with ribs and baffle,
>deburred, dimpled. The thin piece of aluminum is drilled
>to the insides of the tip rib, and the thick aluminum angle
>is drilled and clecoed to the root rib. The root ribs have
>the reiniforcing circle of aluminum riveted in place. For
>fitting purposes, I also screwed the capacity sender plate
>into place on one of them, left it off on the other.
>
>=== Immediate plans ===
>
>I need to drill, deburr, etc the other baffle. I'm also going
>to drill the fuel caps into place. I'll remove the fuel capacity
>sender mounting plate from the one root rib.
>
>Test-install the fuel senders to make sure that the bends
>in the wires look right.
>
>Install vent line.
>
>=== Riveting Method ==
>
>I'm going to use the "Pro Seal Now, Rivet Later" method.
>Actually, I have the tank sealant Van's is shipping now -- I
>don't think it's Pro Seal anymore. But same difference.
>
>Directions:
>
>1. Remove all the plastic from the insides of the skins.
Good idea.
>
>2. Scuff the aluminum on the edges of the ribs and the
> insides of the skins where they will meet. I'll use a scotchbrite
> pad stolen from my kitchen unless this is bad.
First, I used medium grade emery cloth to scuff everything up. I don't know
if Scotchbrite will work, but maybe somebody else does.
>
>3. Clean everythough thoroughly.
Don't forget to wear gloves the whole time, and CLEAN EVERYTHING OFF WITH
COLEMAN STOVE FLUID (NAPHTHA). It's a great degreaser. I wore gloves even
to scuff up the parts.
Proseal and install your stiffeners, filler necks, and drain fittings before
you put in the ribs! You can backrivet the stiffeners and filler necks that
way. You can squeeze the rivets on the drain fitting. Don't forget the
little clips on the filler necks that secure your vent lines!
>
>4. For each rib: apply liberal amount of sealant on rib and
> slide into position. Cleco every single hole.
Right on!
>
>4a. Give the fuel caps similar treatment -- they'll be
> riveted when the ribs are.
Again, do this before the ribs!
>4b. Ditto the reinforcing aluminum mounted
> on the tip/root ribs.
No problem.
>4c. I think I may also put a little sealant around the
> vent line as it passes through each rib to act as clue.
Don't install the vent line until after all ribs are riveted except for the
root ribs. Otherwise, you may have difficulty bucking those rivets. Once
all ribs are in place, you can thread that vent line in, secure it, connect
it to the root rib, and rivet that rib.
>5. Leave them for a week, even all the clecos.
Yes, don't touch a thing.
>
>6. When riveting, apply more sealant to hole from
> the inside. Insert rivet and buck it.
Yes, and don't forget to soak the rivets in Coleman fluid.
>
>7. Most clecos will clean fairly easily -- toss the rest.
I had no problems...don't toss them...they will still work ok.
I highly recommend that you fillet seal all ribs. That means to mix up a
batch of proseal and butter it along both sides of all ribs where they meet
the skin. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Cover the shop
heads of the rivets, too.
>
>8. Apply sealant to the ends of each rib and the insides
> of the skins where baffle will go. Insert baffle and
> cleco every hole. Let it sit for a week, too.
I riveted mine immediately...let me know if this method works for you.
>
>9. Pop-rivet baffle to ribs. Squeeze/buck baffle to skins.
I found that the squeezer slipped too much on the "wet" rivets, causing some
of them to clinch. Bucking worked fine.
>
>10. Let sit another week or two then pressure test.
>
>=== Questions ==
>
>1. Someone in the archives suggested that he SQUEEZED
> the rivets for the baffle. I'm assuming that you have to pop
> rivet to the ribs but can squeeze to the skins if you have a
> long enough yoke (I don't). Someone also mentioned that
> you had access to all 4 sides of the baffle, but I don't have
> a clue how you could arrange that. Can someone comment?
I think I said the "four sides" thing. All four sides in terms of the two
flanges that meet the skin, and the two ends that meet the rib flanges. You
can seal all around the baffle after it's assembled if it should leak. Not
so the interior ribs.
>
>2. How can I tell "up" vs. "down" in the standard fuel senders
> I got from Van's?
They only fit in one way, and one is labeled "right" and one is "left".
>
>3. The drawing shows a "clip" for the vent line as riveted to
> the fuel caps. I'm unclear about this -- can someone
> comment?
Make a little bitty clip out of some .025...look at the tank drawing. You
attach this under one of the rivets that hold on the filler neck. After you
install the vent line you can curl it around the line, holding it in place.
>
>Any and all comments are greatly appreciated. I feel like I'm
>missing some MAJOR steps here or something, and it doesn't
>seem like a process I want to get wrong.
>
>Thanks.
>
>-Joe
If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me or call me:
314 869-8971
Jim Bower
Finished with the wings at last!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | early 3 wing tanks |
I need to build new wing tanks for my early RV3 and have another question
regarding early plans. My existing tanks are 37" long but the '84 plans
show the tanks to be 47". Since the wings are built for these tanks I would
like to just duplicate what I have and not have to change the wing skins.
I'm wondering if the early plans show this smaller tank and what the
capacity is. Anyone know when they went to the larger tank? I have a 10
gallon header tank also so I'm not overly concerned with overall capacity.
Thanks for the help,
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement for RV-8 |
Bob Archer's COM switch is $150 plus shipping.
It is an active switch which is connected to your audio panel COM switch.
When you key the mike, Bob's COM switch opens the coax connection to the
other radio so you don't transmit into it's receiver.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: early 3 wing tanks |
The original RV-3 wing tanks held 12 to 12 1/2 gallons, each. Unless you
built them to the very early plans which show the fuel cap at the back of the
tank. Then they held 11 gallons each with a large air pocket.
The fuel cap should be mounted at the high point of the tank with the
airplane in a three point attitude. Not where the original plans show them
at the rear of the fuel tank.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 50 N47RV (wing tanks - 22 gallons total) :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ?? What size capacitor on alternator |
>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: ?? What size capacitor on alternator
>Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:16:27
>
>
>I am in the process of tracing down some electrical noise in my radio and
>want to install a capacitor on my alternator. I was wondering how many
>microfarads it should be. I know AC$ sells them for about $40, but I can't
>imagine how an automotive one could be inferior for about $10. So I guess
>2
>questions.
>
>1)rating (microfarads)
>2)am I iladvised to use automotive part.
>
>Please reply to my email address, I only get the list digest and wouldn't
>otherwise get your responses until tomorow. Thanks.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Don Mei
>RV-4
>3B9 - Chester, CT
>
>
I had an alternator whine coming in through my COM. I bought a simple RF
choke kit from Radio Shack and wired it into the COM power lead. Problem
solved. It only costs a couple of bucks too. It's a cap and a small coil
(choke). Simple to install.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
280 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-up / Slider Canopy |
Listers,
More news for those of you interested in Rich Meske's "Tip-up Slider"
Canopy modification for the 6/6A, 7/7A, 9/9A. Rich now has his own web site
with more photos & additional information:
http://www.aircraftextras.com
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 337 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Super Fill Users Question |
I am going to fill some minor dings on flap/alieron skins. Other than
roughing the area and using some acid etch to clean, any other thoughts as to
any other prep before applying the putty? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator, blast tube & rain |
FWIW I have a Suzuki Samari Nippondenso alternator I got from a junk yard
for $60. It spins at nearly 10,000rpm at cruise. It has an internal
regulator and it's own blast tube. I have never noticed any difference when
flying in the rain. Oh yes, I live in Oregon. The alternator has some 750
hrs on it. When I last changed the belt I found a bit larger pulley so that
it now spins at "only" 7500rpm. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I bought the Deluxe Cessna Tow Bar from Aircraft Spruce. It was in the
price
> range. I is collapsible and is light even though made of steel.
> Unfortunately it does not fit when the nose wheel fairing is on. It works
> fine if you leave the nose wheel fairing off.
I also use a Cessna style tow bar, but I made some little inserts from some
aluminum rod, 1" in diameter I believe, with steel pins inserted into them.
The inserts go into the tow bar, and the steel pins go into the socket of
the socket head cap screws on the nosewheel fairing.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 109 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Crack found in part |
> What's a VAF-MU-G?
I'm guessing its a Van's Air Force Coffee Mug from the Accessories
Catalogue. Notice the date of the original posting. You've been had. :-)
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
> I bought 2 sets of the 3 colors you have. I'm sitting on a piece of the
> green at my computer desk. Have a full set of all 3 colors in my dining
> room chair (which I use 3 times a day, at least). The other blue and pink
> are in my car seat (all these are in pillow cases to protect them while
> awaiting upholstery phase of my RV-6).
>
> Stiffness - when cold - is common.
Ha! Right now I'm sitting on one layer of blue and two layers of green.
(gotta reduce my "bubba factor"). It makes a good seat cushion, that's for
sure.
Unfortunately, the stiffness in cold weather really is an issue. My garage
is around 55-60 degrees in the winter time, and the foam is already very
stiff. Below freezing, it is like sitting on concrete and the bottom layers
just never warm up. Since I live in Canada, this won't do. I've decided to
make my seats out of polyfoam.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: early 3 wing tanks |
I'm looking at plans #407 dated 1973 and they show the tanks being 37.5"
wide and list 12 gallons with the fuel cap at the rear of the tank.
Mike Nellis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com>
Subject: RV3-List: early 3 wing tanks
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Ed Tate"
>
> I need to build new wing tanks for my early RV3 and have another question
> regarding early plans. My existing tanks are 37" long but the '84 plans
> show the tanks to be 47". Since the wings are built for these tanks I
would
> like to just duplicate what I have and not have to change the wing skins.
> I'm wondering if the early plans show this smaller tank and what the
> capacity is. Anyone know when they went to the larger tank? I have a 10
> gallon header tank also so I'm not overly concerned with overall capacity.
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Ed Tate
> NW Oregon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Crack found in part |
At 15:32 2/04/2002, you wrote:
> > What's a VAF-MU-G?
>
>I'm guessing its a Van's Air Force Coffee Mug from the Accessories
>Catalogue. Notice the date of the original posting. You've been had. :-)
Yes, it's the coffee mug. I thought it might be a bit obvious if I used
Vans' actually part number (VAF-MUG) so I added in an extra hyphen.
No, it's not a have. No, really! It's not. I did actually find that my mug
had a crack in the bottom of the handle.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Has anyone seen this RV-4?
http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/N412RV.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Retract |
>
>Has anyone seen this RV-4?
>
>http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/N412RV.html
>
------------------------
hmmmmm....it looks similar to this one...but something looks a little
different now??...
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/mikesRV4.jpg
Randy S.
p.s. wassup with it now???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
Will Bondo sucessfully fill unwanted holes in aluminum and fiberglass ?
Will it hold , or in time work loose?
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Super Fill Users Question |
Bob's posting has prompted another question. I've used both Super Fil and a
slurry mixture of West System epoxy plus microballoons. I like the West
System because I can totally control viscosity and never got air bubbles . .
. nor does it dry out in the container. Having said this, I only use this
on fiberglass surfaces. Could something like this be used sparingly on a
ding or two? Thanks.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Super Fill Users Question
>
> I am going to fill some minor dings on flap/alieron skins. Other than
> roughing the area and using some acid etch to clean, any other thoughts as
to
> any other prep before applying the putty? Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Super Fill Users Question |
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
Yupper, works great for dings.
Gary
Quoting Rick Jory :
>
> Bob's posting has prompted another question. I've used both Super Fil
> and a
> slurry mixture of West System epoxy plus microballoons. I like the
> West
> System because I can totally control viscosity and never got air bubbles
> . .
> . nor does it dry out in the container. Having said this, I only use
> this
> on fiberglass surfaces. Could something like this be used sparingly on
> a
> ding or two? Thanks.
> Rick Jory
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Super Fill Users Question
>
>
> >
> > I am going to fill some minor dings on flap/alieron skins. Other
> than
> > roughing the area and using some acid etch to clean, any other
> thoughts as
> to
> > any other prep before applying the putty? Thanks, Bob
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
Used sparingly bondo works well on the old polyester parts vans supplied. With
the new epoxy stuff I would stick to epoxy fillers. Also bondo is heavy. I dont
think I would use it to fill dings in the aluminum.
Gary
Quoting doyal plute :
>
> Will Bondo sucessfully fill unwanted holes in aluminum and fiberglass
> ?
> Will it hold , or in time work loose?
> Thanks:
>
> Doyal RV6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
09:47:03 AM
Can't speak for Bondo (I think its junk) but I have the greatest faith in
Evercoat Z-grip. Its a high-tech version of Bondo that claims to be
formulated for aluminum and steel. I have used it on cars and planes. Have
filled really deep dings in cars and then parked the car in the sun for
years and it did not shrink under the paint, and I can see that instantly.
Bondo shrinks a bit with time. You need to get the surface well etched, I
use 80 grit wet dry, then have it absolutely clean and dry. Apply the
filler and sand smooth with a wood block and about 120 gri. Then finish it
with either a high build primer or Evercoat Glazing Compound. This will
fill the sanding marks and the edges around the stiffer main filler. Now to
test how fair it is. Get a little squeeze bottle with a fine tip and
distilled water. Look into a bright light as you let the water run over
everything you just finish sanded. If the light moves, that is what the
light will do with a nice coat of paint, in other words you are simulating
the reflection of the finish coat. Just play with it, you'll get the idea.
If the thin film of water runs off with no distortion, you are there.
I have had no problems with this sticking to fiberglass. My favorite way to
fill glass is to just mix a slurry of West epoxy resin and 407 filler and
just paint it on like ketchup, then sand it. Be sure to sand the surface
you are applying it to first. Works great. I have been bitten a couple of
times with epoxy not sticking to aluminum. I'm now gunshy of that, I bond
metal with proseal and fill it with Z-grip.
You can get Z-grip at your local autopaint store. I just bought a new can,
it was only $12.00 for a big can.
Hope it helps
Eric
doyal plute (at)matronics.com on 04/02/2002 09:07:31 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Bondo
Will Bondo sucessfully fill unwanted holes in aluminum and fiberglass ?
Will it hold , or in time work loose?
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
Having built a "plastic" airplane I am very familiar with both Super Fill
and epoxy/micro mix. You can get the same results out of epoxy/micro that
you can get from Super Fill. The Super Fill is very handy if you are doing
lots of filling. You don't have to worry about mixing up another batch of
micro, you just uncap the can an scoop some out. As for bondo, it will
shrink..........Super Fill and epoxy/micro will not. Bondo is also very
heavy, run as fast as you can away from it.
Little trick here. To get a good surface to sand use peel ply. In lieu of
peel ply, go to your local Wal-Mart and buy some "dress liner material" It
works the same way as peel ply, it just doesn't have the release agent, so
you peel it off the epoxy layup after it sets up. Peel it off within 12
hours or so. You end up with a beautiful surface to final sand and you will
do away with most pinholes. Take it from an ol plastic airplane builder,
eliminate as many pinholes up front and you will be glad you did. Just do
your layup, and lay a layer of the dress liner material right over the wet
epoxy, it will soak up that shinny surface layer of resin. I did so much
sanding, I think 3M put me on their Christmas list.
BTW, 17 days, VS, HS and rudder metal work completed:-) Gotta wait until
June 11 for my wings:-(
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. wings ordered.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:00:18 AM
For some fun surfing dealing with Epoxy products visit West Marines
Epoxyworks magazine. There are some very nice projects in there and some
fun to know info.
Eric
www.westsystem.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | learning fiberglass |
Any suggestions for books on how to do fiberglass? Have never touched the
stuff and need to close the holes on the HS tips, do the gear fairings and
attach the canopy to the top skin.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-8 first engine start this week
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
This is RV related.
I have been flying my RV-4 for 1 1/2 years & have 80 hours on the
plane, it flies great, wing level & cruise at 188 MPH with 150 HP.
My problem is my wife who helped build the plane, insisted her
name also be on the registration, but still has not flown in it, she
says she will but has a hard time getting the nerve, says she
may get claustrophobic, she has flown with me before in our
Piper & Cessna, but has always been a little skittish.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wayne
RV-4 N130NS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Skittish Spouse |
I don't know you location but if you can arrange Clyde Schnars to give your
wife a flight in his immaculate RV-6A it would take away many of her fears.
Clyde is a CFI for most anything that flies. He is an excellent instructor
and is part of the RV transition program. He taught all his kids to fly and
there is an up coming article in the May issue of the Experimenter about
him, his plane as it relates to transitioning and test flying an RV-6. His
e-mail is schnars(at)mindspring.com
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Skittish Spouse
This is RV related.
I have been flying my RV-4 for 1 1/2 years & have 80 hours on the
plane, it flies great, wing level & cruise at 188 MPH with 150 HP.
My problem is my wife who helped build the plane, insisted her
name also be on the registration, but still has not flown in it, she
says she will but has a hard time getting the nerve, says she
may get claustrophobic, she has flown with me before in our
Piper & Cessna, but has always been a little skittish.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wayne
RV-4 N130NS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: learning fiberglass |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:32:40 AM
Start here, if you have WM near you, they usually have these in stock.
http://www.westsystem.com/frames/tier1/productinfo.htm
"F. Parker Thomas" (at)matronics.com on 04/02/2002
11:14:10 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: learning fiberglass
Any suggestions for books on how to do fiberglass? Have never touched the
stuff and need to close the holes on the HS tips, do the gear fairings and
attach the canopy to the top skin.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-8 first engine start this week
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skittish Spouse |
> This is RV related.
>
> I have been flying my RV-4 for 1 1/2 years & have 80 hours on the
> plane, it flies great, wing level & cruise at 188 MPH with 150 HP.
>
> My problem is my wife who helped build the plane, insisted her
> name also be on the registration, but still has not flown in it, she
> says she will but has a hard time getting the nerve, says she
> may get claustrophobic, she has flown with me before in our
> Piper & Cessna, but has always been a little skittish.
Wayne and list:
My wife experienced claustraphobia when ever she sat in the airplane during
the construction process, especially if I closed the canopy on her. At that
point we figured she would just be unable to handle riding in it.
After the airplane had flown for awlile, she tried getting in it again only
this time it was outside and she found she had no problem with the
claustrophobia.
The first couple of flights were on very smooth days and very short to
nearby fun events. She has since graduated to longer trips (especially
enjoys visiting friends) and has even fallen asleep in the back seat.
As with any new passenger, start with perfect days, smooth flying and keep
tabs on how they are feeling. I have found that some passengers do not
tolerate circling and focusing on their house on the ground.
Caution is advised.
Do not archieve
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Testimony,
I have OR Aero Seats. The cost is relatively high compared to typical seats
you could make or purchase. However, the Quality, Comfort and Safety are
unmatched. OR Aero does not make much $ on home builders. Their primary
business comes from military contracts. I struggled with the cost and then
bit the bullet, I'm very satisfied!
I have a lower back that acts up when I lift or turn in appropriately (don't
we all). A few weeks ago I was having problems but life goes on. I was at
the airport and just got that need for speed (200HP RV-4). My back was very
sore so I carefully strapped in and went for a short hour ride. First time I
noticed my back hurt again was when I unbuckled to get out. I had completely
forgotten about it during the flight. Of course the distractions of the
flight probably helped but I never noticed any pain while flying.
The seats are more than special form. They are deigned to properly support
the spine. This is not only important for comfort during long periods but
also during impact should something go wrong. Wayne Hanley was sitting on an
OR Aero seat when his Turbo Raven impacted and he survived to fly again.
Of all the money I spent this beast, I never regret the seats.
Mike Wilson, RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com [mailto:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seats...
I am in the furniture business and bought the Oregon Aero seat cores. I
then
had all of our suppliers of cushions of high end furniture to copy. None
were able to do it using the same material because it is supposedly injected
thus very expensive.
My suppliers could not beat Oregon Aero prices.
E. Len Leggette
RV-8A, N901LL (res)
Wiring Almost Completed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Wayne,
This kind of thing can be very DANGEROUS!!!!
It would be best if you just give the plane a new home. It is very
inconvenient, but I will make the sacrifice and come take her off your hands
(the RV-4 that is). Just tell when and where to pick her up... It's really
for the best! You and your wife will be much happier and I promise to keep
your RV-4 happier too.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Bonesteel <rv8tor3(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Skittish Spouse
>
> This is RV related.
>
> I have been flying my RV-4 for 1 1/2 years & have 80 hours on the
> plane, it flies great, wing level & cruise at 188 MPH with 150 HP.
>
> My problem is my wife who helped build the plane, insisted her
> name also be on the registration, but still has not flown in it, she
> says she will but has a hard time getting the nerve, says she
> may get claustrophobic, she has flown with me before in our
> Piper & Cessna, but has always been a little skittish.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Wayne
> RV-4 N130NS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear |
Those little spring -loaded doors are available from Wicks. Coupled with a
6" valve extension that they also sell, checking tire pressure becomes
PDQ...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
>
> An RV-8 builder here; Ray Lynn -
> http://eaa72.org/vafml/members/rlynn/index.htm built in some round
> spring loaded holes in his wheel pants for checking air pressure...
> They are neat as hell... I am planning on these for checking my air, as
> well as fitting the tow bar... I will try to get some pix of his
> tomorrow evening...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> czechsix(at)juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
>
>
> What diameter hole are you guys drilling in the wheelpants to fit the
> "average" towbar?
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow bar holes in 6A nosegear
>
>
> In a message dated 3/31/2002 6:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
>
>
> > How do you get the nose gear fairing on and off without the holes in
> > the side? The tow bar clamps to the hex screws in the sides that hold
>
> > on the nose gear fairing.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> >
>
> I was wondering the same thing, Paul. And now that my new pressure
> recovery wheel pants are ready for installation, I have noticed that the
> old tow bar isn't nearly wide enough to fit over the new pant shape. I
> suppose the vendor (I have forgotten where this tow bar came from -
> someone on the list makes them) now makes a wider model. By now, I
> should be handy enough to modify the old one all by myself.
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A - 4 years of building and 4 years of maintenance and I'm baffled
> by a towbar... almost never, ever use it anyway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
One comment on the West Epoxy System . . . this refers to Dana's comments on
"you don't have to worry about mixing up another batch" . . . with West you
can get a pump for each part of the epoxy that automatically ratios each
component. You can leave the cans opened, with the pumps in place . . . no
muss, no fuss. For what it's worth, what I do is buy a set of small
aluminum-foil "tins" from the grocery store, and some acid brushes from the
hardware store. Both become throw aways after I've used the epoxy. The
third item is also a throw away, and I'd encourage you to try it . . .
you'll like it. To wipe off excess epoxy when preparing a piece of cloth,
or to wipe off excess slurry, I just use standard Bicycle-brand playing
cards. If you want a more rigid "squeegee", just double or triple up on the
cards you use. This, too, is cheap and works great (and, of course, these
become throw aways also). I once thought the fiberglassing was a royal
pain. Now I'm sort of getting the hang of it.
Rick Jory (RV8A . . . glassing the back of my canopy skirt)
----- Original Message -----
From: Dana Overall <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Super Fill
>
> Having built a "plastic" airplane I am very familiar with both Super Fill
> and epoxy/micro mix. You can get the same results out of epoxy/micro that
> you can get from Super Fill. The Super Fill is very handy if you are
doing
> lots of filling. You don't have to worry about mixing up another batch of
> micro, you just uncap the can an scoop some out. As for bondo, it will
> shrink..........Super Fill and epoxy/micro will not. Bondo is also very
> heavy, run as fast as you can away from it.
>
> Little trick here. To get a good surface to sand use peel ply. In lieu
of
> peel ply, go to your local Wal-Mart and buy some "dress liner material"
It
> works the same way as peel ply, it just doesn't have the release agent, so
> you peel it off the epoxy layup after it sets up. Peel it off within 12
> hours or so. You end up with a beautiful surface to final sand and you
will
> do away with most pinholes. Take it from an ol plastic airplane builder,
> eliminate as many pinholes up front and you will be glad you did. Just do
> your layup, and lay a layer of the dress liner material right over the wet
> epoxy, it will soak up that shinny surface layer of resin. I did so much
> sanding, I think 3M put me on their Christmas list.
>
> BTW, 17 days, VS, HS and rudder metal work completed:-) Gotta wait until
> June 11 for my wings:-(
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> 7 emp. wings ordered.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: learning fiberglass |
The Orndorff video covering part of the 8, 8A (not sure which video) shows
how to do the fiberglassing associated with the windscreen. This is pretty
"complete" (i.e. shows wetting cloth, making a slurry as a filler, etc.).
Re: closing the tips . . . I first cut/sanded some sand-able foam to "close"
the ends. I cut a channel around the foam (sort of a "V" notch between the
foam and fiberglass surface of the tip). I filled the V-notch with a slurry
of resin + floxed cotton fiber (both available from Spruce). I "cover" this
with a layer of cloth/resin (using peel ply on the surface for a nice smooth
finish). Once cured, I then do a final "coat" with a slurry of resin +
microballoons. I sand the finished result. Good luck, have fun.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: learning fiberglass
>
> Any suggestions for books on how to do fiberglass? Have never touched the
> stuff and need to close the holes on the HS tips, do the gear fairings and
> attach the canopy to the top skin.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker Thomas
> RV-8 first engine start this week
>
>
> F. Parker Thomas
> PO Box 190894
> San Francisco, CA 94119
> me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skittish Spouse |
Start her on flying lessons.
Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Stavro <Art79(at)pacbell.net> |
Hi guys, I am looking to purchase an RV4, preferably 180hp with constant
speed or a 160hp..I have heard there might be one in the San Francisco
bay area for sale, a friend of a guy at Hayward who has a yellow racer I
believe...Hopefully someone might know who I am speaking of or know
someone else selling a good quality aircraft preferably here in calif .
Thanks in advance....Art Stavro..Hayward Ca..510 278 0260 or 510 541
4979..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: learning fiberglass |
I'd recommend a video by Sam James called Fiberglass 101, in which he
demonstrates these exact jobs on his RV-4. If you prefer a book, the best
composite book we have is Understanding Composites by Zeke Smith. Both are
listed in the airframe-composite section of Builder's Bookstore at:
http://buildersbooks.com
Andy
Any suggestions for books on how to do fiberglass? Have never touched the
> stuff and need to close the holes on the HS tips, do the gear fairings and
> attach the canopy to the top skin.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Parker Thomas
> RV-8 first engine start this week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
How much were the seats for your RV-4 from OR Aero?
Scot
>
>
>Testimony,
>
>I have OR Aero Seats. The cost is relatively high compared to typical seats
>you could make or purchase. However, the Quality, Comfort and Safety are
>unmatched. OR Aero does not make much $ on home builders. Their primary
>business comes from military contracts. I struggled with the cost and then
>bit the bullet, I'm very satisfied!
>
>I have a lower back that acts up when I lift or turn in appropriately (don't
>we all). A few weeks ago I was having problems but life goes on. I was at
>the airport and just got that need for speed (200HP RV-4). My back was very
>sore so I carefully strapped in and went for a short hour ride. First time I
>noticed my back hurt again was when I unbuckled to get out. I had completely
>forgotten about it during the flight. Of course the distractions of the
>flight probably helped but I never noticed any pain while flying.
>
>The seats are more than special form. They are deigned to properly support
>the spine. This is not only important for comfort during long periods but
>also during impact should something go wrong. Wayne Hanley was sitting on an
>OR Aero seat when his Turbo Raven impacted and he survived to fly again.
>
>Of all the money I spent this beast, I never regret the seats.
>
>Mike Wilson, RV-4
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lenleg(at)aol.com [mailto:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Seats...
>
>
>I am in the furniture business and bought the Oregon Aero seat cores. I
>then
>had all of our suppliers of cushions of high end furniture to copy. None
>were able to do it using the same material because it is supposedly injected
>
>thus very expensive.
>
>My suppliers could not beat Oregon Aero prices.
>
>E. Len Leggette
>RV-8A, N901LL (res)
>Wiring Almost Completed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
I have heard that bondo shrinks over time. I am getting ready to
paint and am using Superfil sold by Polyfiber, on the advice of
experienced friends. I am using the nontoxic, waterbourne, two part
urethane, paint from Polyfiber as well.
Goerge Frost, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | O-320 A1A Air Box Interferece RV-9A Conical mount |
I mounted my rebuilt Lycoming O-320 A1A conical mount engine on vans motor
mount on my RV-9A last week and find that the carb will interfere with the
motor mount and the air box with the mount and gear leg. Also, I had to use
3/4" think spacers to avoid interference between the intake tubes and the
motor mount. I can turn the carb 180 degrees to avoid motor mount
interference and do some extensive modifications on the air box which might
even include a remote filter. All or at least some of this interference
seems to come from the fact that my sump may not be the typical sump. My
sump is part no. 69369B and the carb is mounted aft of the oil screen
fitting. I can't find this p/n in my parts manual but I understand many
sumps have the carb location forward of the oil screen fitting.
I have several questions:
1. Does it matter if my carb (Marvel MA-4SPA) faces forward or aft?
2. Is the best solution to try to find a sump in which the carb is mounter
further forward?
3. Does anyone have a parts manual that shows the 69369B sump?
4. Does a remote filter degrade performance enough that I should make every
attempt to avoid it even if it requires major modification to Vans airbox in
order to use it?
5. I used alum spaces on the motor mount. Should they be steel? Welded to
the mount or just placed on the engine mounting bolts?
6. Is this going to be a common O-320 conical mount/RV-9A problem for
others?
7. Is this why lots of people like the little wheel in the back?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: 9-0132
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
I have posted some pictures of my slightly modified (I think cessna) bar.I
got it a couple of years ago at OSH from Wag Aero and unfortunatly there is
no # on it.I added the over center bar to hold it open to hook up.Makes it
much easier and less chance of scraping the paint.The pins are just a couple
of bolts that fit.I put a piece of rubber tubing around the bolts to take up
the space.The tow bar works great and is much stronger than the one someone
was selling to RVers a while back.I have one and it is pretty weak,although
I carry it in the a/c as it is light.
The pictures are on Doug Reeves yahoo
site--http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ Click on photos and then
click washburn.The pics can be enlarged to full screen.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Help - Need Pin Out for KY-197 |
Dear All,
Help!! I have a friend coming to help me install an intercom and I need the
pin outs for a KY-197 radio.
If you can help, please email it to me directly, since the list server
strips off all attachments, or Fax it to me at
419-844-0280
Thanks.
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
I have used bondo in auto body work. I WOULD NOT use on aluminum. It might be
fine, but I talked to a body shop bud, an A&P (aircraft painter), and a
recent post from Eric re: super fill today and all agree to use a NON lacquer
base glazing putty such as Evercoat. Eric has more detail in today's post of
you care to use Evercoat Z grip as a base before the putty. Also the the A&P
suggested to rough up the area, acid etch, alodine, and shoot with epoxy
enamel BEFORE applying the putty. Then to shoot a light coat of epoxy over
the sanded/dried filler (putty). Perhaps the 3 stage process is overkill but
the guy has been in the business for many years and produces some of the best
aircraft paint jobs that you can imagine. I am going with the Evercoat and
will use the Super Fil only in big dings which fortunately I do not have-at
least yet. Again, I WILL NOT USE BONDO! Bob in Arkansas finishing wings of a
6.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports |
Rick,
Mine are installed 12 inches back from the leading edge.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
>
> Anyone out there using the Proprietary Software Systems Angle-of-Attack
> product, where (% of chord) did you locate your pressure ports on the
wing?
> Thanks,
> Rick Jory RV8A
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
Shoot! Rats! Double Rats!!
I must confess I used Bondo to fill minor dings in my RV-6.
Now you are saying I can expect my plane to look like it has the pox one
of these days.
Triple Rats!!!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6.....still smooth and shiny after three years and 350
hrs with all paint intact)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
======================
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have used bondo in auto body work. I WOULD NOT use on aluminum. It might be
> fine, but I talked to a body shop bud, an A&P (aircraft painter), and a
> recent post from Eric re: super fill today and all agree to use a NON lacquer
> base glazing putty such as Evercoat. Eric has more detail in today's post of
> you care to use Evercoat Z grip as a base before the putty. Also the the A&P
> suggested to rough up the area, acid etch, alodine, and shoot with epoxy
> enamel BEFORE applying the putty. Then to shoot a light coat of epoxy over
> the sanded/dried filler (putty). Perhaps the 3 stage process is overkill but
> the guy has been in the business for many years and produces some of the best
> aircraft paint jobs that you can imagine. I am going with the Evercoat and
> will use the Super Fil only in big dings which fortunately I do not have-at
> least yet. Again, I WILL NOT USE BONDO! Bob in Arkansas finishing wings of a
> 6.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
Sam, I only hope my plane will look as half as good as yours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
Thanks Sam for helping Kevin. You made the "papers!" At least have Kevin
show you the article when it comes out in the May issue of the
Experimenter.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Bondo
Shoot! Rats! Double Rats!!
I must confess I used Bondo to fill minor dings in my RV-6.
Now you are saying I can expect my plane to look like it has the pox one
of these days.
Triple Rats!!!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6.....still smooth and shiny after three years and 350
hrs with all paint intact)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
======================
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have used bondo in auto body work. I WOULD NOT use on aluminum. It might
be
> fine, but I talked to a body shop bud, an A&P (aircraft painter), and a
> recent post from Eric re: super fill today and all agree to use a NON
lacquer
> base glazing putty such as Evercoat. Eric has more detail in today's post
of
> you care to use Evercoat Z grip as a base before the putty. Also the the
A&P
> suggested to rough up the area, acid etch, alodine, and shoot with epoxy
> enamel BEFORE applying the putty. Then to shoot a light coat of epoxy over
> the sanded/dried filler (putty). Perhaps the 3 stage process is overkill
but
> the guy has been in the business for many years and produces some of the
best
> aircraft paint jobs that you can imagine. I am going with the Evercoat and
> will use the Super Fil only in big dings which fortunately I do not
have-at
> least yet. Again, I WILL NOT USE BONDO! Bob in Arkansas finishing wings of
a
> 6.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skittish Spouse |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Skittish Spouse
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:23:01 -0800
This is RV related.
I have been flying my RV-4 for 1 1/2 years & have 80 hours on the
plane, it flies great, wing level & cruise at 188 MPH with 150 HP.
My problem is my wife who helped build the plane, insisted her
name also be on the registration, but still has not flown in it, she
says she will but has a hard time getting the nerve, says she
may get claustrophobic, she has flown with me before in our
Piper & Cessna, but has always been a little skittish.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wayne
RV-4 N130NS
Hi Wayne and Terri:
Watching this thread.
I have been to your house and Terri knows me. I would not give up your
airplane or Terri. I would be more than happy to take either one off your
hands if you cannot have both.
Cy may have hit the nail on the head. Getting her a ride in an RV.
Since I was your EAA Tech Counselor while you were building and Terri has
met me and seen my RV-6, maybe she would like a ride in my airplane and see
what your airplane looks like in the air from my airplane.
I sent you an email a few weeks ago about Oshkosh and Home Coming. There is
a flight of 4 departing for OSH from Cable (CCB) where I am based. Not sure
how many will go to the Home Coming. Talk with Terri about going to the
Home Coming either in your airplane or mine. If I take Annette or one of my
other girlfriends with me to the Home Coming, we could swap pax if Terri
would ride with me and not you.
We got to get the both of you to the Home Coming this year.
I can fly to South Lake Tahoe just about any weekend that I am not at work
and the weather is VFR.
If you would like to get a CFI to fly with Terri, I will let Kim down at CCB
or Randy use my airplane no charge to take Terri up.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Retract |
Mike, I hope you're not insulted that I didn't run this. Couple of years ago
I took a pic of the Franklenstein without legs at the Van's plant and
thought about running that as a joke to start rumors. But I decided agains
that too, just didn't seem to relevant I guess. Anyway, I sure don't want to
discourage you from writing!!!
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Retract
>
> Has anyone seen this RV-4?
>
> http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/N412RV.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Retract |
Nice that you posted it yesterday. :-)
Van put out the first drawing of the RV-8 on an April first. Two RV-4
fuselages, like a twin Mustang.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: early 3 wing tanks |
In a message dated 04/01/2002 8:01:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mike(at)bmnellis.com writes:
> I'm looking at plans #407 dated 1973 and they show the tanks being 37.5"
> wide and list 12 gallons with the fuel cap at the rear of the tank.
>
I believe a later change moved the cap to 9 1/2" forward of the rear baffle.
Please look up the actual drawing change. It's been a couple decades since I
received the change notice.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Prattville, AL Fly-In! |
Hey guy's I plan on driving down friday should arrive around 3-5pm.
Anybody plan on being around the airport? I sure would like to get a
ride in a 6A :-)
Any hotels close by?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Clark <y2khog(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Bondo |
Where is the Bondo to be used? If it is a stressed skin area then bondo
should NEVER be used. This hole must be repaired in accordance to
AC43-13 or other approved structural patches (i.e. rivet spacing, patch
size, etc.). As for non structural usage of Bondo I would limit this
surfaces such as fiberglass.
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of doyal plute
Subject: RV6-List: Bondo
--> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
Will Bondo sucessfully fill unwanted holes in aluminum and fiberglass ?
Will it hold , or in time work loose?
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Retract |
Nah, just too many glasses of cabernet after reworking the gear legs.
(Next time I'll clean the hanger first 8-o )
MGM
>
>Mike, I hope you're not insulted that I didn't run this. Couple of years ago
>I took a pic of the Franklenstein without legs at the Van's plant and
>thought about running that as a joke to start rumors. But I decided agains
>that too, just didn't seem to relevant I guess. Anyway, I sure don't want to
>discourage you from writing!!!
>
>Randy
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Retract
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone seen this RV-4?
> >
> > http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/N412RV.html
> >
> >
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Retract |
>
>Nice that you posted it yesterday. :-)
I figured the 412RV would give it away.
>Van put out the first drawing of the RV-8 on an April first. Two RV-4
>fuselages, like a twin Mustang.
>
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | Wing Fairings... |
Two questions...
Are you all gluing the rubber crap to the wing fairings? Also, has
anyone come up with a slick way to install the flap fairing to
accommodate the step on an RV-8A?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports |
Rick,
Likewise...12" from leading edge. Put a straightedge on the leading edge,
and make sure it's perpendicular to the wing chord. Then measure straight
back (don't follow the skin contour) 12" on the top and bottom. Feel free
to write or call Jim Frantz at Proprietary Software. He's very friendly and
eager to answer questions.
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A
Done with wings FINALLY!
>From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
>Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:32:18 -0700
>
>
>Rick,
>Mine are installed 12 inches back from the leading edge.
>
>Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
>
>
> >
> > Anyone out there using the Proprietary Software Systems Angle-of-Attack
> > product, where (% of chord) did you locate your pressure ports on the
>wing?
> > Thanks,
> > Rick Jory RV8A
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jarlin" <jarlin(at)jarlin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for RV4 |
Perhaps I have the RV4 that you are looking for. Completed in November
1998 and winner of 1999 - "Best in Custom Built in Show" Moffett 1999.
IO360 parallal valve 180 hp, constant speed prop, fully IF except for
glideslope. There are many extras such as wing tip lockers, lowered rear
floor, floor locker in forward cockpit, etc. TT 382 hours. Hangared at the
Nut Tree Airport, Vacaville. 707-448-2041
cell - 707-486-2914.----- Original Message -----
From: "Art Stavro" <Art79(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: looking for RV4
>
> Hi guys, I am looking to purchase an RV4, preferably 180hp with constant
> speed or a 160hp..I have heard there might be one in the San Francisco
> bay area for sale, a friend of a guy at Hayward who has a yellow racer I
> believe...Hopefully someone might know who I am speaking of or know
> someone else selling a good quality aircraft preferably here in calif .
> Thanks in advance....Art Stavro..Hayward Ca..510 278 0260 or 510 541
> 4979..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings and Seats... |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
I posted some pix of my wing fairings installation this morning...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish9.htm
I know I asked this already, but should I glue the rubber channel to the
wing fairings? It seems that would e necessary to hold them to the
fairing since the AL is so thin... Also, has anyone come up with an
easy way to fit the flap fairing over the step on an -8A?
I also posted some conceptual images of the seats I intend to make...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/interior/index.htm
I am sorry if my server is slow today... It appears there are some
network issues that are being worked out right now...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: How to best post the Apr 98 Kitplanes |
article by Jim Weir (altitude encoders)
Thanks for the suggestions. We'll go for .pdf. Hard copy of the article is
going in the mail today to Bob Nuckolls.
Bob, will you send the file via e-mail direct to Jim Weir at
jim@rst-engr.com? He's already said he'd post it to his web site just under
his 1999-current article links. Thanks a lot. (copy of this e-mail sent to
Jim Weir for his "heads up" to expect it.)
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: How to best post the Apr 98 Kitplanes
article by Jim Weir (altitude encoders)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> If you have the original magazine that I can scan, I'll
> be happy to get it into postable form . . . probably
> a .pdf file. Drop it in the mail to 6936 Bainbridge Road,
> Wichita, KS 67226-1008 and I'll return it to you when
> I've got it immortalized in magnetic bits.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairings and Seats... |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
10:54:13 AM
Hey Bill, how did you do the wedge cuts? Did you use a hot wire/jig setup?
Eric
Bill VonDane (at)matronics.com on 04/03/2002 10:29:15
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
I posted some pix of my wing fairings installation this morning...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish9.htm
I know I asked this already, but should I glue the rubber channel to the
wing fairings? It seems that would e necessary to hold them to the
fairing since the AL is so thin... Also, has anyone come up with an
easy way to fit the flap fairing over the step on an -8A?
I also posted some conceptual images of the seats I intend to make...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/interior/index.htm
I am sorry if my server is slow today... It appears there are some
network issues that are being worked out right now...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports |
Thanks for the answers. By the way, my ports will be located behind my taxi
light (mounted in leading edge, outboard bay) . . . I did talk to Jim Frantz
and he says this location is fine, shouldn't be a problem.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
>
> Rick,
>
> Likewise...12" from leading edge. Put a straightedge on the leading edge,
> and make sure it's perpendicular to the wing chord. Then measure straight
> back (don't follow the skin contour) 12" on the top and bottom. Feel free
> to write or call Jim Frantz at Proprietary Software. He's very friendly
and
> eager to answer questions.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis
> RV-6A
> Done with wings FINALLY!
>
>
> >From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
> >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:32:18 -0700
> >
> >
> >Rick,
> >Mine are installed 12 inches back from the leading edge.
> >
> >Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Re: Angle-of-Attach Pressure Ports
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Anyone out there using the Proprietary Software Systems
Angle-of-Attack
> > > product, where (% of chord) did you locate your pressure ports on the
> >wing?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rick Jory RV8A
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings and Seats... |
I haven't actually made the seats yet, but I was thinking either an
electric carving knife, or a hot wire cutter... I would bet the latter
would be more accurate...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
Hey Bill, how did you do the wedge cuts? Did you use a hot wire/jig
setup?
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings and Seats... |
> > I know I asked this already, but should I glue the rubber channel to the
> wing fairings? It seems that would e necessary to hold them to the
> fairing since the AL is so thin...
Mine stay on. I would not advise glue because you will need to remove the
wing root fairings to access that area ,like when your fuel tanks begin to
leak :>(. I put them on by pushing the little channel over the fairing a
little bit at a time. A little WD-40 helps.
Also, has anyone come up with an
> easy way to fit the flap fairing over the step on an -8A?
A cardboard template of the part of the fairing the step goes through will
help you.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings and Seats... |
You put the rubber on AFTER you have the AL screwed down?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Carter
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
> > I know I asked this already, but should I glue the rubber channel to
> > the
> wing fairings? It seems that would e necessary to hold them to the
> fairing since the AL is so thin...
Mine stay on. I would not advise glue because you will need to remove
the wing root fairings to access that area ,like when your fuel tanks
begin to
leak :>(. I put them on by pushing the little channel over the
fairing a
little bit at a time. A little WD-40 helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
Four weeks and counting to the 8th Annual Twin Cities RV Forum. Our
speakers roster is complete including:
Jerry VanGrunsven
George and Becki Orndorff
Tom Irlbeck (RV-8 flight instructor and former Navy Top Gun instructor
Paul Irlbeck (master RV builder)
Joe Logie (Unison sales rep.. talking on electronic ignition systems)
Jim Younkin (TruTrack auto flight systems)
plus Norm Peterson from the EAA as our Banquet Speaker
Lyle Hefel's Grand Champion RV-8 will be our centerpiece showplane plus many
more RVs on display. Door prizes, wives' program (and Wife Rides), vendors,
plus a unique setting at the Golden Wings Air Museum at Anoka County Airport
in Minneapolis. Rooms available at the local Super 8.
Details are here at:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/RVforum/index.htm
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Off the list for a week - Sun & Fun |
I'll be off the list for a week, gone Sun & Fun.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings and Seats... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
>
> You put the rubber on AFTER you have the AL screwed down?
>
> -Bill
>
Yeah, it's not that hard. You just start at one end (I start on the forward
part under the wing) and push it into place. You have to work it so the
groove in the rubber channel slides over the inboard edge of the wing root
fairing. In a couple of places (like the forward wing-attach bracket), I
had to cut out a little section of the inside of the rubber where it was too
tight of a fit. The forward (under the wing) part of the rubber is held in
place by the intersection fairings. I used 200 mph duct tape until I
finished my intersection fairings.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings and Seats... |
Jerry... How much of a gap do you have between the fuse and the
fairings?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Carter
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
>
> You put the rubber on AFTER you have the AL screwed down?
>
> -Bill
>
Yeah, it's not that hard. You just start at one end (I start on the
forward part under the wing) and push it into place. You have to work it
so the groove in the rubber channel slides over the inboard edge of the
wing root fairing. In a couple of places (like the forward wing-attach
bracket), I had to cut out a little section of the inside of the rubber
where it was too tight of a fit. The forward (under the wing) part of
the rubber is held in place by the intersection fairings. I used 200 mph
duct tape until I finished my intersection fairings.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings and Seats... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fairings and Seats...
>
> Jerry... How much of a gap do you have between the fuse and the
> fairings?
>
> -Bill
Check me on this in the plans, but I believe it's 3/8"
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ssracer1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Bondo |
You want to use EA-960 two part filler, mix by weight. When properly mixed
and applied it will last as long as the airframe.
Ken
> Will Bondo sucessfully fill unwanted holes in aluminum and fiberglass ?
> Will it hold , or in time work loose?
> Thanks:
>
> Doyal RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
can someone please supply the names/phone numbers for insurance companies .
i want to shop insurance for an rv6.
some company , other than avemco
thank you ,
my direct email is
martinheisler(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: insurance help |
In a message dated 4/3/2002 6:48:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
martinheisler(at)hotmail.com writes:
> can someone please supply the names/phone numbers for insurance companies .
> i want to shop insurance for an rv6.
> some company , other than avemco
Several are listed in the Yeller Pages.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Off the list for a week |
Listers:
I'll be off the list til mid April or a little later. Going to Sun &
Fun in Vietnam. I've been planning the trip for some time. More later.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Electrical system....finally
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix/King KMD150 |
I'm looking into the Bendix/King KMD150 GPS moving map. The Bendix
website is pretty scarce on information about this unit. Has anyone
seen any good write-ups of this unit, or any other information on the
web, that they could steer me towards?
Thanks
Jeff Point
-6 fuse, planning panel
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland & Anne Collins <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip mounting? |
Andy, I finished the tips after completing the metal work. There is a
fair amount of work involved in making the tips fit right. I regarded it
as a learning prelude to the "big one", doing the glass work for the
canopy.
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <rv6aflyr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: insurance help |
I have gotten best rates and good service from Travers & Associates, St.
Louis MO. Contact them at: 1-800-888-9859 or check their web site:
www.traversaviation.com
Les Williams/RV6-A N24LW
>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: insurance help
>
>
>In a message dated 4/3/2002 6:48:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>martinheisler(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > can someone please supply the names/phone numbers for insurance
>companies .
> > i want to shop insurance for an rv6.
> > some company , other than avemco
>
>Several are listed in the Yeller Pages.
>-GV (N1GV)
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: insurance help |
Les,
Give NationAir a call. They know and understand the "RV world". I have my
builders risk with them now, and when my airplane starts moving under it's
own power, I'll add the full coverage. Their Number is: 636-532-1617. (St.
Louis MO Area) Ask for J.T.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV- 8
Floors and side panels
----- Original Message -----
From: "les williams" <rv6aflyr(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: insurance help
>
> I have gotten best rates and good service from Travers & Associates, St.
> Louis MO. Contact them at: 1-800-888-9859 or check their web site:
>
> www.traversaviation.com
>
> Les Williams/RV6-A N24LW
>
> >From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: insurance help
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 4/3/2002 6:48:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> >martinheisler(at)hotmail.com writes:
> >
> >
> > > can someone please supply the names/phone numbers for insurance
> >companies .
> > > i want to shop insurance for an rv6.
> > > some company , other than avemco
> >
> >Several are listed in the Yeller Pages.
> >-GV (N1GV)
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Pannozzo" <corvett2(at)crosslink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: insurance help |
Nation Air
636-532-0023... they are the cheapest that i have seen so far
----- Original Message -----
From: "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: insurance help
>
> can someone please supply the names/phone numbers for insurance companies
.
> i want to shop insurance for an rv6.
> some company , other than avemco
> thank you ,
> my direct email is
> martinheisler(at)hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ACS Engine Monitor @ Sun-N-Fun |
Listers,
After some long nights I have shipped one of my new ACS2002 engine monitors
to Sun-N-Fun. Converting the monochrome unit to color has proven to be more
of a challenge than I had anticipated, but I got it working in time. Please
stop by the Pacific Coast Avionics booth and take a look. I would appreciate
any comments that you have.
The unit is 6.25" wide so it can fit in the radio stack.
I also have a new picture on the website www.advanced-control-systems.com
FedEx don't fail me now!
Rob Hickman
Advanced Control Systems Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | ACS Engine Monitor @ Sun-N-Fun |
Congrats Rob!!!!!
I will be looking for it.
James
(one of the probably many who bent your ear for a while on why 6.25" was
important ;-) )
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: ACS Engine Monitor @ Sun-N-Fun
Listers,
After some long nights I have shipped one of my new ACS2002 engine monitors
to Sun-N-Fun. Converting the monochrome unit to color has proven to be more
of a challenge than I had anticipated, but I got it working in time. Please
stop by the Pacific Coast Avionics booth and take a look. I would
appreciate
any comments that you have.
The unit is 6.25" wide so it can fit in the radio stack.
I also have a new picture on the website www.advanced-control-systems.com
FedEx don't fail me now!
Rob Hickman
Advanced Control Systems Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
Many thanks for all of your suggestions on fiberglass.
It looks likely that I'm going to have to move my almost finished 8 (heard
that before?) to Louisville, KY for a job in the next few weeks. Any RV'ers
out there who could provide any suggestions about hangar space in the
Louisville area? I think Bowman field would be the closest to the job.
Many thanks,
Parker
RV-8, first engine start tomorrow, working on avionics, canopy and cowling
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
OR Aero charged me $550 for two seats but I had several custom mods added.
I'm sure their std. seat sets are around $500. Does not include covering.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Scot Stambaugh [mailto:sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Seats...
How much were the seats for your RV-4 from OR Aero?
Scot
>
>
>Testimony,
>
>I have OR Aero Seats. The cost is relatively high compared to typical seats
>you could make or purchase. However, the Quality, Comfort and Safety are
>unmatched. OR Aero does not make much $ on home builders. Their primary
>business comes from military contracts. I struggled with the cost and then
>bit the bullet, I'm very satisfied!
>
>I have a lower back that acts up when I lift or turn in appropriately
(don't
>we all). A few weeks ago I was having problems but life goes on. I was at
>the airport and just got that need for speed (200HP RV-4). My back was very
>sore so I carefully strapped in and went for a short hour ride. First time
I
>noticed my back hurt again was when I unbuckled to get out. I had
completely
>forgotten about it during the flight. Of course the distractions of the
>flight probably helped but I never noticed any pain while flying.
>
>The seats are more than special form. They are deigned to properly support
>the spine. This is not only important for comfort during long periods but
>also during impact should something go wrong. Wayne Hanley was sitting on
an
>OR Aero seat when his Turbo Raven impacted and he survived to fly again.
>
>Of all the money I spent this beast, I never regret the seats.
>
>Mike Wilson, RV-4
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lenleg(at)aol.com [mailto:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Seats...
>
>
>I am in the furniture business and bought the Oregon Aero seat cores. I
>then
>had all of our suppliers of cushions of high end furniture to copy. None
>were able to do it using the same material because it is supposedly
injected
>
>thus very expensive.
>
>My suppliers could not beat Oregon Aero prices.
>
>E. Len Leggette
>RV-8A, N901LL (res)
>Wiring Almost Completed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Oregon Aero charges right at $700 for the RV-8 seats, uncovered... They
also want $400 PER SEAT to cover them...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wilson, James
Mike
Subject: RE: RV-List: Seats...
-->
OR Aero charged me $550 for two seats but I had several custom mods
added. I'm sure their std. seat sets are around $500. Does not include
covering. Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
Sorry to drag this out but if I understand you correctly, you get an
uncovered seat cushion and then you have to acquire the upholstering fabric
and then have it upholstered? Is it just foam or is the foam mounted to
something?
scot
>
>
>OR Aero charged me $550 for two seats but I had several custom mods added.
>I'm sure their std. seat sets are around $500. Does not include covering.
>Mike
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scot Stambaugh [mailto:sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Seats...
>
>
>How much were the seats for your RV-4 from OR Aero?
>
>Scot
>
> >
> >
> >Testimony,
> >
> >I have OR Aero Seats. The cost is relatively high compared to typical seats
> >you could make or purchase. However, the Quality, Comfort and Safety are
> >unmatched. OR Aero does not make much $ on home builders. Their primary
> >business comes from military contracts. I struggled with the cost and then
> >bit the bullet, I'm very satisfied!
> >
> >I have a lower back that acts up when I lift or turn in appropriately
>(don't
> >we all). A few weeks ago I was having problems but life goes on. I was at
> >the airport and just got that need for speed (200HP RV-4). My back was very
> >sore so I carefully strapped in and went for a short hour ride. First time
>I
> >noticed my back hurt again was when I unbuckled to get out. I had
>completely
> >forgotten about it during the flight. Of course the distractions of the
> >flight probably helped but I never noticed any pain while flying.
> >
> >The seats are more than special form. They are deigned to properly support
> >the spine. This is not only important for comfort during long periods but
> >also during impact should something go wrong. Wayne Hanley was sitting on
>an
> >OR Aero seat when his Turbo Raven impacted and he survived to fly again.
> >
> >Of all the money I spent this beast, I never regret the seats.
> >
> >Mike Wilson, RV-4
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Lenleg(at)aol.com [mailto:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Seats...
> >
> >
> >
> >I am in the furniture business and bought the Oregon Aero seat cores. I
> >then
> >had all of our suppliers of cushions of high end furniture to copy. None
> >were able to do it using the same material because it is supposedly
>injected
> >
> >thus very expensive.
> >
> >My suppliers could not beat Oregon Aero prices.
> >
> >E. Len Leggette
> >RV-8A, N901LL (res)
> >Wiring Almost Completed
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
Thanks Bill. That answers all my questions.
scot
>
>Oregon Aero charges right at $700 for the RV-8 seats, uncovered... They
>also want $400 PER SEAT to cover them...
>
>-Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wilson, James
>Mike
>To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Seats...
>
>
>-->
>
>OR Aero charged me $550 for two seats but I had several custom mods
>added. I'm sure their std. seat sets are around $500. Does not include
>covering. Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I just got a new 12-channel GPS for my RV6A. I know each of the satellites
transmits on two frequencies,
1,575.42 mHz and 1,227.60 mHz using phase modulation. My question: if each
of the 12-channels is "listening" at the same time (it is not a mulitplexing
nor a sequential unit) what prevents each channel from reading the same SV
(space vehicle) and neglecting the others that are in 'sight?'
Is there some 'lockout' system that when one channel acquires a given SV
that the other channels will ignore the one already 'captured?'
This inquiring mind NEEDS to know.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Tom Scherder wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
> Not to underrate the seats, or the foam that you can buy from the various
> dealers but you can do this yourself.
> You would be surprised at how good you can make these interiors look, and
> how comfortable a seat you can make yourself. You can buy high density foam
> in any thickness from your local fabric store and cut it to fit anyway you
> like with a kitchen electric knife. Then with just a little (in my case very
> little ) skill you can cover them with your favorite fabric or leather. If
> this seems worth while to you just give me a holler off list and I'll go
> over how I did mine.Or if you want just call me.
> Tom in Ky RV 8 1012 Finished the all ostrich leather interior while waiting
> for my finish kit.
One of the members of our builders group did the interior herself for
their RV. Here is her article about the process:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/interior.htm
While not a simple process, it is possible to make your own interior if
you really want to do it......sorta like painting the plane...... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
Tennessee Valley RV Builders Group http://www.tvrvbg.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ramsey<n44rx(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | My new EarthLink email address |
Bcc:
Hi. I wanted to let you know that I've switched to EarthLink for my Internet access,
and I now have a new email address.
So please send all email to my new EarthLink email address:
n44rx(at)earthlink.net
I don't want to miss any of your messages, so please take a moment to write down
my new address and add it to your email address book.
Thanks!
Wilfred
P.S. My old email address was (n44rx(at)netscape.net)
********************************
EarthLink - The #1 provider of the Real Internet
http://www.earthlink.net/
********************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: Towbar for -8A |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, got this info on a towbar that works for the -8A (and should
therefore work on any of the nosedragger RV's with the newer wheel
pants). Bogert sells it for $69. Just thought I'd pass it along in case
anyone else could benefit....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fiberglass stuff....
-------
Mark,
The tow bar is from BOGERT AVIATION 509-736-1513 bogibar(at)aol.com
http://maxpages.com/maxpage.cgi/bogertaviation
I use the same one. They are now red in color, the one you see in the
background on Mark Steffensen's 8A is the prototype Bogart built for 8As
-
Mark helped them out there.
The opening is, as I recall, Van's standard dimension - the same size you
will need to get a socket wrench in there to remove the pant/wheel combo.
Dave Dalski
N854D
-----Original Message-----
Hi Dave,
I saw your nice -8A picture on Doug Reeves' website.
Question: in the picture it shows another -8A in the background (Mark
Steffensen's?) that is painted. It has a towbar attached to the
nosewheel.
Can you tell me what kind of towbar, and how big do I need to make the
holes in my front wheel fairing to allow the towbar to work?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass, misc finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
After reading all the discussion about high temp firewall calk, I
thought I should mention Permatex Ultra-Copper. I went to a hot rod
shop to buy some of the high temp Red RTV to seal firewall cracks and
noticed the "Copper" stuff hanging next to it on the rack. It claims to
be non-corrosive and have a higher temp spec. than the red stuff. The
PDF from the permatex web site says it will handle 600 F continuous and
700 F intermittent.
The Permatex web page doesn't apear to list the Red Hi temp RTV - just
the copper. Does any one have any knowledge of this product vs the red
RTV?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A CRASHES AT SNF |
RV6A-MID-AIR AT SUN AN FUN-FRIDAY AT 3.05PM-PILOT OF RV6 DIES-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
http://news.tbo.com/news/MGA4601YOZC.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Harmonic Balancer for an O-235 |
I am installing an O-235-N2C on an RV-9A. There is lots of good info
concerning his product for the larger engines for RVs. However, Mark
Landoll responded with a deal that sounds too good to be true. I have
the Dynafocal I mounts. Does anyone have any experience with this? It
would be a great saving, if it works. Attached I have edited. Mark's
comments
>>>>> ....... Harmonic dampener with attach bolts is $375.00 plus UPS
($10.00) ....... The Lyc 0 235 is one of the smaller engines where the
firing pulses are not too great. The steel ring which I also sell may
be all you need. It is just a steel ring without any external
functions. Cost is $80.00 plus shipping. However, if you have conical
engine mounts the harmonic dampener would be best for your engine. <<<<<
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 5% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 QB Aileron Brackets don't fit |
Listers,
I can't seem to be able to fit the w-414 outboard aileron brackets to
the rear spars on my RV8-QB.
I should be able to simply match the predrilled holes on the brackets
with the ones on the rear spar,
drill the side of the brackets to the wing rib and get a perfect fit,
but it doesn't work!
If I cleco the predrilled holes to the rear spar, the bracket won't stay
square with the wing rib or the spar, it's too tight.
If I position the bracket square with the rib, the holes don't line up.
It's as if the wing rib was positioned too far out (both wings) or the
brackets are the wrong dimension.
I can of course force the brackets into position, but that doesn't seem
to be a very elegant solution (I don't want to worry that an aileron
might fall off!).
Has anyone experienced this problem?
Any ideas?
TIA for your help.
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Aileron Brackets don't fit |
I had this problem on my 7 QB wings as well. I found that it helped to have
the skin clecoed on while fitting and drilling the aileron bracket. This
helps pull the tip rib and rear spar into alignment. I then clecoed the
bracket to the rear spar and tried to pull it into position parallel to the
tip rib. Then I drilled it to the rib and clecoed it. Finally I drilled out
the rivet holes full size through the bracket and rear spar. It was still
very slightly out of alignment with the tip rib after riviting but there was
more than enough room the get the aileron positioned properly when I
fabricated the bushings to mount it.
Neil
RV-7 Fuselage (finally!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 QB Aileron Brackets don't fit
>
> Listers,
>
> I can't seem to be able to fit the w-414 outboard aileron brackets to
> the rear spars on my RV8-QB.
>
> I should be able to simply match the predrilled holes on the brackets
> with the ones on the rear spar,
> drill the side of the brackets to the wing rib and get a perfect fit,
> but it doesn't work!
> If I cleco the predrilled holes to the rear spar, the bracket won't stay
> square with the wing rib or the spar, it's too tight.
> If I position the bracket square with the rib, the holes don't line up.
> It's as if the wing rib was positioned too far out (both wings) or the
> brackets are the wrong dimension.
>
> I can of course force the brackets into position, but that doesn't seem
> to be a very elegant solution (I don't want to worry that an aileron
> might fall off!).
>
> Has anyone experienced this problem?
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA for your help.
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
> RV8 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator alignment to each other - counterweights...NOT |
Folks,
I have been test fitting my HS and elevators in order to determine my
elevator pushrod length.
Found and fixed one problem...binding between the heim bearing and the
control stick weldment - Van's said grind out the weldment. I have
before and after pictures for anyone that contacts me offline.
I have drilled the centerbearing for the HS where it attaches to the
elevators. I just clamped the counterweight skins to the HS skins where
they lined up (along their line of rotation keeping the gaps) - since
the point of rotation for the centerbearing won't move, the position of
the elevators with respect to each other isn't (shouldn't) be important.
Here's my quandry now:
With the counterweight skins clamped to the HS skins it doesn't look
like the trailing edges of the elevators are lined up with respect to
each other. I'll be getting an elevator alignment tool (rotating level
thingy) at Homey's or Lowey's tomorrow - maybe a smarttool digital from
Avery's...suggestions please. This way I'll know exactly how they line
up. If they don't - it looks like I have two choices...line up the
counterweight skins and let the airflow drag past the misaligned
elevators... or align the elevator trailing edges and use some filler to
make the needed sides of the counterweight skins and HS skins thicker to
complete the appearance.
Has anyone else had this problem??? What did you do to fix it???
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB withe earlier prepunched empennage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
Has anyone out there installed the wing tip tanks after construction of the
plane was completed? Any problems? Leaving for Sun/fun Monday and thinking
about order same.
Joe
RV6A
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Franklin Engine Option |
I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360.
In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft.
Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation
kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed
type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp
alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle
etc, brackets, & baffle plans.
The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In.
Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the
Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the
Lyc @ 4.
Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry
Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc
Vs. 384 for the Franklin.
The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected
& a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for
the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering
Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM.
I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also
told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit
the Franklin.
I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who
have gone before me.
Best Wishes,
Dick Jordan
Malvern, Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Franklin Engine Option |
There is a good write up on the Franklin installation RV in "21 years of
RVator". Van's called it Franklinstein although it wasn't all bad. "21
years" is an excellent publication for any RV builder, not all relevent for
the the newer kits but a wealth in information none the less.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com>
Subject: RV-List: Franklin Engine Option
>
> I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360.
> In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft.
> Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation
> kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed
> type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp
> alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle
> etc, brackets, & baffle plans.
>
> The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In.
> Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the
> Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the
> Lyc @ 4.
>
> Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry
> Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc
> Vs. 384 for the Franklin.
>
> The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected
> & a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for
> the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering
> Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM.
>
> I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also
> told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit
> the Franklin.
>
> I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who
> have gone before me.
>
> Best Wishes,
> Dick Jordan
> Malvern, Pa.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Franklin Engine Option |
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Dick Jordan"
>
>I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360.
>In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft.
>Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation
>kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed
>type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp
>alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle
>etc, brackets, & baffle plans.
>
> The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In.
>Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the
March 27, 2002 - April 06, 2002
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