RV-Archive.digest.vol-mr
April 06, 2002 - April 16, 2002
>Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the
>Lyc @ 4.
>
> Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry
>Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc
>Vs. 384 for the Franklin.
>
> The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected
>& a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for
>the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering
>Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM.
>
> I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also
>told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit
>the Franklin.
>
> I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who
>have gone before me.
>
> Best Wishes,
> Dick Jordan
> Malvern, Pa.
>
Maybe you should be looking at a rebuilt IO-360. I got an overhauled
IO-360 from Bart Lalonde (Aerosport Power) for much less than the
price you mention for the Franklin. The Franklin is heavier than the
IO-360 too, and the Io-360 is already heavier than I would like.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Steel & plastic gas cans--the last word in SA, Dec. '98 |
The December 98 issue of Sport Aviation had an extensive article on the
hazards posed by plastic gas cans. I suggest everybody drag out their back
issue & read it.
Some of their important points:
1. Draining just 2 gallons of fuel from a 5 gallon plastic jug produced
2,000 volts at the nozzle.
2. A static charge on the side of the container could be immediately
removed by wiping the container with a damp rag.
3. A static charge can build up in the fuel itself, which is relatively
non conductive. Nothing was said, as I recall, about screens, wires or
other devices in the gasoline being effective in bleeding off any
charge. If gas is a poor conductor, I suspect such devices would not be
very effective.
4. They note that Chevron claims that an ungrounded metal container is the
most hazardous, followed by plastic, while a grounded metal container was
least hazardous. The aircraft itself should be grounded, as well as the
gas can grounded to the aircraft, and it should be ascertained that there
is a conductive path from the fuel tank to where you are grounding the
aircraft and the fuel can.
RS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Aileron Brackets don't fit |
Roberto Giusti wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I can't seem to be able to fit the w-414 outboard aileron brackets to
> the rear spars on my RV8-QB.
>
> I should be able to simply match the predrilled holes on the brackets
> with the ones on the rear spar,
> drill the side of the brackets to the wing rib and get a perfect fit,
> but it doesn't work!
> If I cleco the predrilled holes to the rear spar, the bracket won't stay
> square with the wing rib or the spar, it's too tight.
> If I position the bracket square with the rib, the holes don't line up.
> It's as if the wing rib was positioned too far out (both wings) or the
> brackets are the wrong dimension.
>
> I can of course force the brackets into position, but that doesn't seem
> to be a very elegant solution (I don't want to worry that an aileron
> might fall off!).
>
> Has anyone experienced this problem?
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA for your help.
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
> RV8 QB
I discovered that the ribs can be nudged into alignment by small amounts,
the rib web near to the flange will take a little distortion. I am not
building a QB but I'm sure you could 'win' enough to get the bracket on.
RV6 Fuse
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | pro repair shops? |
I purchased my rv-9a from the original builder (kevin shannon, who did a great
job; http://welch.som.yale.edu/n994ks/ ). alas, I now need a pro repair shop in
CT, so that I do not need to rely so much on people doing me favors. It would
definitely make sense for us Vans aftermarket purchasers to have a list of pro
repair shops that are able and willing to work on Vans---and builders might like
such a list, too.
So, if you are aware of such a repair shop, please send me an email with the
title "van's repair" and the name, location, and tel of the shop. I will post
a
summary email if I get more than 10 emails.
regards,
/iaw
n994ks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Source of precision tools |
Before I started on my RV project, I was an avid builder of scale plastic
aircraft models. Many of the tools and supplies that work for the small
stuff works very well on the full scale A/C too. I think most of you are
aware of the benefit of Dremel tools.
During my modeling years, I have purchased a lot of stuff from Micro-Mark
Tools (www.micromark.com). I have needle files, tiny drill bits, Dremel
tool accessores, etc. One of the neat things I have is a little 3-jaw chuck
that fits into a cordless drill and holds very small drill bits.
Most of my fellow local builders have never heard of Micro-Mark, so I am
guessing few of you have. Give them a look.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Control run break out forces - RV 6A |
Listers,
I am installing all the control runs on my aircraft. To all listers who have
completed this stage I am sure you have been scratching your heads as to how
free should the controls be, as things are free until you start tightening
things down. Van's manuals make no reference to any limits. I know that with
sufficient patience and the addition of shims, bushes, etc I can get all
surfaces to move very freely, even a bit sloppy (no backlash though!).
However, my question is how necessary is this? For example, previous
listings mention as long as can the bolts goes in with a push - there should
be no problem even if things do tighten up, whilst other listings talk of
highly accurate fittings of bearing brackets. Has anyone put a fish scale on
their sticks/rudder bars and measured forces necessary to move the surfaces
whilst stationary, if so what are the measured forces?
Appreciate your help, as always.
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6A finishing
Dubai, UAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling elevator weldment |
Don,
If you have an older kit (like mine), the weldments can be put on slightly
out of line. Do not be too concerned if the weldments do not line up
perfectly, just make sure the trailing edges of the Elevators line up and
try to ensure good edge distance on your holes.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch, RV6
Minneapolis
I am drilling the elevator weldment where the elevator pushrod attaches on
my 6A. According to plans, the hole is located 3/8" from the bottom and
front of the weldment. I am drilled the first one there and was going to
drill the second one but I am concerned that if the weldments do not line up
exactly, the elevators will not be lined up.
Suggestions or am I being too AR on this?
Don Mack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Control run break out forces - RV 6A |
In a message dated 4/7/2002 10:21:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae writes:
> I am installing all the control runs on my aircraft. To all listers who have
> completed this stage I am sure you have been scratching your heads as to
> how
> free should the controls be, as things are free until you start tightening
> things down. Van's manuals make no reference to any limits. I know that
> with
> sufficient patience and the addition of shims, bushes, etc I can get all
> surfaces to move very freely, even a bit sloppy (no backlash though!).
> However, my question is how necessary is this? For example, previous
> listings mention as long as can the bolts goes in with a push - there
> should
> be no problem even if things do tighten up, whilst other listings talk of
> highly accurate fittings of bearing brackets. Has anyone put a fish scale
> on
> their sticks/rudder bars and measured forces necessary to move the surfaces
> whilst stationary, if so what are the measured forces?
David-
Speaking from experience, you will have the most enjoyable flying plane if
you keep the breakout (stiction) forces absolutely as low as possible in your
RV. Very small things can change that (a bolt too tight, a little
misalignment or some rubbing on an adjacent surface) and you won't like it
after only a few short minutes. Just take out any lash and stop right there.
If you follow this simple rule the light and responsive handling of these
planes will come thru. You normally just fly them with two fingers and stick
pressure, not displacement, and their returning promptly to center is
important, especially when hand flying long distances or in chop. Once after
a condition inspection in which I tightened the pilot's stick pivot bolt nut
just one castle too tight to remove just a wee bit of slop in the bushing (a
little movement in one stick pivot while holding the other stationary), I
found that it screwed up the handling for me.
Keep all controls as low stiction as possible and your bird will handle
better IMO.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | How much to ferry an RV? |
Howdy folks,
I'm looking for a rough estimate of the going rate for ferry services. I
have an opportunity to deliver an RV4 from selling broker to buyer. Neither
party is experienced in RV's. The length of the ferry flight is 1700nm. Yep,
it's a long way for sure. Pretty nice looking airplane though
(IO-360/CS/Navaid/GPS). They want it moved soon, so I may not be able to do
it at all. If not, I might post the info here on the list.
Any help will be most welcomed, especially any logistical/legal issues to be
concerned about. Reply off-list unless you feel it's worthy info for the RV
populace at large.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much to ferry an RV? |
Contact Bill Cox, he's the expert. I'm sure he could help...
flybillcox(at)aol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: How much to ferry an RV?
>
> Howdy folks,
>
> I'm looking for a rough estimate of the going rate for ferry services. I
> have an opportunity to deliver an RV4 from selling broker to buyer.
Neither
> party is experienced in RV's. The length of the ferry flight is 1700nm.
Yep,
> it's a long way for sure. Pretty nice looking airplane though
> (IO-360/CS/Navaid/GPS). They want it moved soon, so I may not be able to
do
> it at all. If not, I might post the info here on the list.
>
> Any help will be most welcomed, especially any logistical/legal issues to
be
> concerned about. Reply off-list unless you feel it's worthy info for the
RV
> populace at large.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling elevator weldment |
Don: A lot of people have found that their elevator horns don't line up
when the elevators are aligned, myself included. As I remember Van's
instructions (I think it's in the manual) you should align the surfaces and
then drill the horns together so that the minimum edge distance for the hole
in the rearmost horn is as you describe. In my case one of the horns was
almost 1/4 in forward of the other at the forward bottom corner so the hole
in that horn was obviously 3/8 plus 1/4 from the forward bottom corner. I
suggest you check with Van's because it's been a long time since I drilled
those holes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> |
| Subject: | Aft Battery Connection |
I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's
suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW
resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron F889....big
holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then
there's that copper to aluminum joint...
What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!!
David Grebe
RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
Starting Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection |
believe it or not, I have seen some installations where they run two copper
cables back to the batt...one for ground, and one for hot....one goes to
starter, the other goes to an engine ground..with a 35 amp ball...they DO crank
nicely...jolly in aurora, or.
"David L. Grebe" wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "David L. Grebe"
>
> I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's
> suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW
> resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron F889....big
> holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then
> there's that copper to aluminum joint...
>
> What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!!
>
> David Grebe
> RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
> Starting Finishing Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control run break out forces - RV 6A |
David R.,
Besides the 3 normal things (1) normal grinding of weldments in vicinity of
stick pivots; 2) filing out the top of square hole hole (in floor area aft
of F-604 a ways) to elim elev pushtube binding when full fwd or full aft; &
3) pinching bushings, not weldments (judicious filing/fitting) in vicinity
of sticks), the only other source of "slight binding" I found was:
- At mid-fuselage bellcrank: The fwd elev push tube's aft end's rod
end bearing (which tapers to "bigger" as you move fwd on it) was being
squeezed (touched) by the 2 halves (sides) of the elev bell crank
- I eliminated the binding by putting in a thin & a thick rod end
washer on each side of rod end to push the elev bell crank sides out so they
didn't contact the rod end. (I just looked at it - looks like I could
eliminate the 2 thin rod end washers - I have lots of clearance.) Used a
piece of aluminum sheet scrap with a small radius filed on side of one end
and tape to hold the washers as I inserted them into the tight space.
- Before I found the cause of that "binding", all I felt was a very
slight, very smooth, almost acceptable (but "not") friction in fore-aft
movement, unlike side-to-side, which was "free".
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roseblade" <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-List: Control run break out forces - RV 6A
>
> Listers,
>
> I am installing all the control runs on my aircraft. To all listers who
have
> completed this stage I am sure you have been scratching your heads as to
how
> free should the controls be, as things are free until you start tightening
> things down. Van's manuals make no reference to any limits. I know that
with
> sufficient patience and the addition of shims, bushes, etc I can get all
> surfaces to move very freely, even a bit sloppy (no backlash though!).
> However, my question is how necessary is this? For example, previous
> listings mention as long as can the bolts goes in with a push - there
should
> be no problem even if things do tighten up, whilst other listings talk of
> highly accurate fittings of bearing brackets. Has anyone put a fish scale
on
> their sticks/rudder bars and measured forces necessary to move the
surfaces
> whilst stationary, if so what are the measured forces?
>
> Appreciate your help, as always.
>
> Regards
>
> David Roseblade
> RV6A finishing
> Dubai, UAE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
I am installing my Flite Come Intercom in my RV6A . So far I have
connected the acc. stereo jack to the Flite Com and the out lead to
the headphones and the power lead to power.. Trying to test the music
system...nothing happens! Should it be free standing without being
connected to the King radio? Or does the complete system have to be
wired to get any output?
Anyone that has, " been there and done that', please enlighten me
on the subject.
Thanks:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much to ferry an RV? |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: How much to ferry an RV?
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:16:08
Howdy folks,
I'm looking for a rough estimate of the going rate for ferry services. I
have an opportunity to deliver an RV4 from selling broker to buyer. Neither
party is experienced in RV's. The length of the ferry flight is 1700nm. Yep,
it's a long way for sure. Pretty nice looking airplane though
(IO-360/CS/Navaid/GPS). They want it moved soon, so I may not be able to do
it at all. If not, I might post the info here on the list.
Any help will be most welcomed, especially any logistical/legal issues to be
concerned about. Reply off-list unless you feel it's worthy info for the RV
populace at large.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Brian:
Do not know what the going rate is but it sounds like it is coast to coast.
I am willing to do it if you cannot.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,016.0+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aft Battery Connection |
In a message dated 4/7/2002 2:21:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
davegrebe(at)pond.com writes:
> I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's
> suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW
> resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron
> F889....big
> holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then
> there's that copper to aluminum joint...
>
> What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!!
First of all, that's not the way to do it. If you must put the battery way
in the back of the bus (though I wouldn't recommend it) for weight and
balance, you need to keep the contactors close by and you will need to run 2
AWG (because of the long distance) wire all the way forward to the starter
and engine with no breaks. Then ground the engine to the airframe at the
firewall. Return all of your grounds to a grounding block on the firewall.
Then get an Odyssey battery (toss the Concorde RG off a cliff if you want to
run with the big dogs).
On the other hand, if you can keep the battery close to the firewall, then
you can get by with short runs of 4 AWG. Also, get a copy of The
Aeroelectric Connection from Andy Gold and follow it.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | Wag Aero / ICS radio |
This radio on P. 16 of the current catalogue seems to offer a lot for
the money, (although somewhat heavy). Does anyone have any experience
of these radios?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley. Rob(at)RobsGlass.com
RV9A fuse ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Franklin Engine Option |
Dick,
$25,000 you say. I'm not sure why you want a new engine. I've been told
time and time again by guys who build and fly experimentals that the best
engine to get is a used one taken off of a serviceable and flying airplane.
You only have to test fly the airframe not the engine since you know it
already works. OK, I know, everybody wants new or at least 0SMO and I'll be
honest I went 0SMO.
I bought a subscription to Trade-a-plane last year ($2.95/mo for internet
only) and found an O-360-A1A from Air Tech, a reputable engine repair
facility, for $13,900. It was completely overhauled and all parts (crank,
cam, cylinders) came yellow tagged. It came with the airtech light weight
starter and 45 amp alt new, new slick mags wires and plugs, fuel pump, and
was set up for CS prop. Missing were the carb, prop gov, and vacuum pump.
No carb was good for me since I stuck an Airflow Performance fuel injection
system on the thing ($2,495 + $300 for high pressure elect boost pump + $150
for high pressure engine driven fuel pump). I was shocked when I opened the
box. I had expected to see a bare aluminum beat up thing. Instead it was
completely painted in lycoming gray. Barely a scratch on it. Numerous A&Ps
and EAA members commented that the thing looked emasculate. It came with a
log book showing all work done and came with a light weight starter ring
gear. The engine was also pickled for long term storage so I did not have
to rush to get it into operation before it started to rust.
OK so I think I got a great deal. Factor in the extras that you talked
about and my firewall forward still comes in below $18,000 for a 2000 hr TBO
zero SMO. Now that I have some extra cash these days (been working on my
RV-4 since 1991) I prefer to keep things as simple as possible. Just the
thought of modifying a cowl would keep me up at night. I'm sure other
modification would need to be made anytime you change Van's design in some
way. Not to say you could not do it yourself, but are you they type that
wants to get into all that R&D.
I just saw 2 Lyc O-360s advertised at www.vansairforce.net. One guy wanted
$8,500 for his. Not sure of the model. It had 1800 hours SMO. Overhaul
will usually cost about $7000 - $9000. Back up to that $15000 - $17000 mark
for a used engine. By the way I've been told that a good estimate for any
aircraft engine overhaul is $2000 per cylinder. Your The Franklin overhaul
is going to get real pricey and it occurs at 1500 hours. Van's is still
the best deal going for a new Lyc. Talked to numerous Lyc dealers last year
and they could not even touch the $21,500 Van wanted for a new o-360-A1A.
Bottom line. New will cost you. Get Trade-a-Plane and keep checking
various websites. If overhauled correctly a used engine is just a good as a
new one. A new one will not give you any extra HP or last any longer than a
used overhauled one.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Jordan [mailto:mkejrj(at)erols.com]
Subject: RV-List: Franklin Engine Option
I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360.
In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft.
Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation
kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed
type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp
alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle
etc, brackets, & baffle plans.
The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In.
Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the
Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the
Lyc @ 4.
Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry
Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc
Vs. 384 for the Franklin.
The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected
& a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for
the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering
Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM.
I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also
told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit
the Franklin.
I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who
have gone before me.
Best Wishes,
Dick Jordan
Malvern, Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling elevator weldment |
Don,
They will probably not line up exactly, so make sure that you have the
elevators mounted on the airplane and fixed in exactly the right position
before you drill that second hole.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I am drilling the elevator weldment where the elevator pushrod attaches on
my 6A. According to plans, the hole is located 3/8" from the bottom and
front of the weldment. I am drilled the first one there and was going to
drill the second one but I am concerned that if the weldments do not line up
exactly, the elevators will not be lined up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Hi,
I am having some problems with my the readings on my VSI. In an effort to
isolate the problem I have disconnected it from the static source (capped
the open end of the static source) and now the VSI is picking up static air
from the cockpit.
It won't be as accurate, but a VSI still should work properly if vented to
the cabin air, right?
Are VSI's worth overhauling or is it cheaper to get a new one if this turns
out to be the problem?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)earthlink.net> |
Question about RTV:
These products may be found at any NAPA store.
I used to seal two halves of a two cycle engine I used to supply to power
bicycles, in particular the DAHON Folders.
See: www.terratran.com
Either the Orange RTV or the Copper should work equally well.
Martin Sobel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
RV-List Digest Server
| Subject: | Re: Harmonic Balancer |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Harmonic Balancer for an O-235
In this post I might be covering information that you already have at
hand.
In your post you do not give the reason why you might be in need of the
dampener.If extra nose weight is what you are after, you might want to
know what the
"steel ring" weighs without the "external functions". My guess is that
in either case the extra nose weight will be desirable, but that is only
a guess.
If you are looking for the dampener for the smoother running engine that
could result when utilizing it, then spend the extra money on the
complete
unit. The added weight of the "steel ring" by itself should provide some
noticeable desired effect on vibration, especially at lower engine rpm.
The bare "steel ring" by itself will not likely remove any existing
harmonic
imbalance conditions that exist before its installation.
That is to say, engine vibrations encountered at most any speeds (rpm)
that
are due to internal and or external out-of-dynamic-balance conditions
must
be dealt with by rebalancing the engine and components. If the aircraft
in question cannot afford to have any significant weight added ahead of
C of G, dynamic balancing is done by temporarily attaching very
sensitive vibration sensors and rpm reading equipment to the engine,
then running the engine through various rpm ranges and taking readings.
When analysis is done, weights are then appropriately positioned and
attached to the flywheel to compensate and or adjust for the
out-of-balance conditions. If added weight is not a problem, or in fact
is desired, then the harmonic
dampener could very well be the good answer.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Harmonic Balancer for an O-235
>
> I am installing an O-235-N2C on an RV-9A. There is lots of good info
> concerning his product for the larger engines for RVs. However, Mark
> Landoll responded with a deal that sounds too good to be true. I have
> the Dynafocal I mounts. Does anyone have any experience with this? It
> would be a great saving, if it works. Attached I have edited. Mark's
> comments
>
> >>>>> ....... Harmonic dampener with attach bolts is $375.00 plus UPS
> ($10.00) ....... The Lyc 0 235 is one of the smaller engines where the
> firing pulses are not too great. The steel ring which I also sell may
> be all you need. It is just a steel ring without any external
> functions. Cost is $80.00 plus shipping. However, if you have conical
> engine mounts the harmonic dampener would be best for your engine. <<<<<
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain u-encoder on e-Bay |
Saw this today if anybody wants one.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1817949254
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV- 6A mid-air at SNF |
as a hobby i bring my scanner with me to sun n fun to listen to the control
tower bark orders. you must not realize just how busy these guys are in the
heat of the moment. one situation last year went something like this.
Mooney on short final your gear is up, Cesnna follow the mooney landing long,
and you land short, Mooney your gear is still up, Mooney your gear is up!!!
Mooney is in the grass no longer a factor, cessna land imediately, warrior
your #2 behind the cessna, fly over him and land long.
kinda scary isn't it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection |
Take a look at AC43.13, they show a procedure for making a ground point. I
followed their procedure and used a 1/4" AN bolt. The longeron is 3/4", so
that leaves 1/4" edge distance. Not flying yet but I have been reading .01
ohms from several locations on the airframe to the ground point.
Vince
RV-8A Finishing
>From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection
>Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 17:20:28 -0400
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "David L. Grebe"
>
>I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's
>suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW
>resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron
>F889....big
>holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then
>there's that copper to aluminum joint...
>
>What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!!
>
>
>David Grebe
>RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
>Starting Finishing Kit
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | seat upholstery and hangar doors |
Since this has come up again.... here's the link to the description of how
to make your own seats. Scroll down to the upholstery section. Paste the
link back together if it's split into 2 lines:
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20notes%20for%20e
verything%20except%20the%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
I also fixed the dead link to the really cool hangar doors. New pictures
posted.
Build on,
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved, fuselage or canoe?
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
"'rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com'"
| Subject: | RV-8/8A Jig available |
Anyone near the Portland/Vancouver area that wants a good fuselage jig for
free, I'm done with mine. Includes longeron clamps, adjustable legs and
overhead centering wire. E-mail or call 503-803-4216.
Ron.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket |
Did any of you RV8 builders have to trim the bottom
outboard wing skins so that they do not interfere
with the W-413 aileron brackets?
Or did you trim the brackets?
This isn't mentioned on the plans or on the videos.
Maybe its just so obvious that it's not worth mentioning.
Thought I'd check this out before cutting a perfectly good skin!
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8 QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4/RV-8 seat position |
>>Hi Folks,
>
>After years of self-delusion, I've come to the conclusion that resistance
>is
>futile. So...I have narrowed the choices down to the -4 and the -8, with
>the deciding factor being seating position. I THINK I'd prefer the -4,
>with
>it's rudder pedals being further apart, like other taildraggers I've flown.
>The only way to know for sure, I guess, is to sit in a simulated -4 or -8
>at
>home for a few hours. With that in mind, can anyone give me:
>
>-the approximate height of the front seat above the floor, and
>
>-the distance between the OUTER edges of the rudder pedals,
>
>for each model so I can make crude mock-ups? Off-list would probably be
>appropriate (I doubt this is a hot topic):
>
> bipetype(at)hotmail.com
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim
>Pittsburgh
Yes indeed. Resistance IS futile. You too will become one with the RV
collective. ;)
There is no actual seat pan in either model RV. The seat cushion is
something you fit to suit your desired seating height. I have long felt
that all the RV's should have some form of actual seat pan, so you don't
have to come up with such a funky shaped seat cushion to fill the void
behind the spar. (Yoohoo.....Scott McD, Van, Phil, you guys out there??
Hellooooo?)
I don't have the exact dimension of the rudder pedal distance, but on my -8,
with semi-fixed, ground adjustable pedals, it's about a foot outer edge to
outer edge, going from memory.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
280 hrs.
oil change time.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Hi,
I am having some problems with my VSI.
To determine whether the problem is in the instrument or
in the static line I have disconnected the instrument
from the static line. The line is capped and the VSI
static source is the cabin air.
Am I correct in that the VSI using cabin static air
should work if the instrument is not the problem?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon at Sun n Fun? |
Did anyone look up the Dynon representatives at Sun n Fun? If so....what's
the haps? How do the units look? When are they going into production? Will
they tumble and roll and become unable to right themselves?
Ross Mickey
Hole in panel for an EFIS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Wittman" <fmico(at)iaxs.net> |
I think that you'll get erratic readings that way. The delay in
pressure equalization between "outside air" and "inside air" will
confuse that poor instrument.
Jim Wittman
N567RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
Subject: RV-List: VSI Problems
Hi,
I am having some problems with my VSI.
To determine whether the problem is in the instrument or
in the static line I have disconnected the instrument
from the static line. The line is capped and the VSI
static source is the cabin air.
Am I correct in that the VSI using cabin static air
should work if the instrument is not the problem?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Problems |
It should work although it may very well have a lag in response.
Mike R.
RV-8A
>From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: VSI Problems
>Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 19:39:07 +0000
>
>
>Hi,
>I am having some problems with my VSI.
>
>To determine whether the problem is in the instrument or
>in the static line I have disconnected the instrument
>from the static line. The line is capped and the VSI
>static source is the cabin air.
>
>Am I correct in that the VSI using cabin static air
>should work if the instrument is not the problem?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Problems |
It will also be affected by any changes in airflow into or out of the
cabin. So it'll make a temporary jump if you open or close vents,
cabin heat, etc, but it should settle down OK afterwards.
Good luck,
Kevin
>
>It should work although it may very well have a lag in response.
>
>Mike R.
>RV-8A
>
>
>>From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: VSI Problems
>>Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 19:39:07 +0000
>>
>>
>>Hi,
>>I am having some problems with my VSI.
>>
>>To determine whether the problem is in the instrument or
>>in the static line I have disconnected the instrument
>>from the static line. The line is capped and the VSI
>>static source is the cabin air.
>>
>>Am I correct in that the VSI using cabin static air
>>should work if the instrument is not the problem?
>>
>>-Glenn Gordon
>>N442E
> >
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Problems |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I am having some problems with my the readings on my VSI. In an effort to
> isolate the problem I have disconnected it from the static source (capped
> the open end of the static source) and now the VSI is picking up static air
> from the cockpit.
>
> It won't be as accurate, but a VSI still should work properly if vented to
> the cabin air, right?
>
> Are VSI's worth overhauling or is it cheaper to get a new one if this turns
> out to be the problem?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
I flew with one vented to the cabin in an RV-4 for about 7
years. It worked fine for VFR use; I'm not qualified to have
an opinion on IFR :-).
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
doyal plute wrote:
>
>
> I am installing my Flite Come Intercom in my RV6A . So far I have
> connected the acc. stereo jack to the Flite Com and the out lead to
> the headphones and the power lead to power.. Trying to test the music
> system...nothing happens! Should it be free standing without being
> connected to the King radio? Or does the complete system have to be
> wired to get any output?
> Anyone that has, " been there and done that', please enlighten me
> on the subject.
> Thanks:
> Doyal
>
Are you using the preamp output from a car stereo to feed
the intercom? If so, it's unlikely that there will be enough
signal to drive your headphones. You will probably need to
use the speaker outputs from the stereo. The danger is that
typical car stereos have a lot more audio power than you
need for headphones so care is needed to avoid damage to
your headphones (& hearing). Care is also needed to avoid
damage to the car stereo's speaker outputs because the '-'
terminal isn't really ground as you would expect.
Bob over on the Aerolectric list has asked for a how-to
article on this subject & it's on my todo list, but if you
want some quick verbal tips, email me direct & I'll send you
my phone #.
Charlie
past-life consumer electronics tech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket |
Roberto...
I guess I don't understand why you have to trim either... Mine fit fine
with no trimming...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wing47.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roberto Giusti
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket
Did any of you RV8 builders have to trim the bottom
outboard wing skins so that they do not interfere
with the W-413 aileron brackets?
Or did you trim the brackets?
This isn't mentioned on the plans or on the videos.
Maybe its just so obvious that it's not worth mentioning.
Thought I'd check this out before cutting a perfectly good skin!
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8 QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket |
Yes, I did. I have an early wing kit, and I thought it might be resolved
by now. Interestingly enough, you can check the plans, count rivet holes,
and see where the skin should be trimmed.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket
>
> Did any of you RV8 builders have to trim the bottom
> outboard wing skins so that they do not interfere
> with the W-413 aileron brackets?
> Or did you trim the brackets?
>
> This isn't mentioned on the plans or on the videos.
> Maybe its just so obvious that it's not worth mentioning.
>
> Thought I'd check this out before cutting a perfectly good skin!
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
> RV8 QB Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing skin interferes with aileron bracket |
Roberto,
I had to trim my bottom skins to make them fit. I too thought this was
only a problem on the early kits. I received the following reply when I
asked your exact question awhile back and followed it. I can't get at my
wings now but I'm almost positive the 11 1/16" turned out to be correct.
Greg Puckett (80081 sloooow build)
Elizabeth, Colorado
>
> In a message dated 2/25/99 3:29:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> puckett(at)ualfltctr.com writes:
>
> > I am fitting the outboard bottom wing skin on my RV-8 and the
trailing edge
> > of the skin where it steps further aft is hitting the inboard W-413
Aileron
> > Hinge bracket. To clear it will need to be trimmed about .25". Has
anyone
> > else had this?
> I just hung the outboard bottom skin on my RV-8 QB, it clears the
W-413
> bracket by 1/16". The dimension from the skin's inboard edge to the
"step" is
> 11-1/16", contact me off-list if you would like any other dimensions.
>
> Glen Wagner
> RV-8QB
>
>
you wrote:
Did any of you RV8 builders have to trim the bottom
outboard wing skins so that they do not interfere
with the W-413 aileron brackets?
Or did you trim the brackets?
This isn't mentioned on the plans or on the videos.
Maybe its just so obvious that it's not worth mentioning.
Thought I'd check this out before cutting a perfectly good skin!
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8 QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | arjames(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Marking parts before priming |
Listers,
I'm a new builder of an RV-7A, and a first time builder. I've begun the
empennage and I've started marking the parts with an electric pencil as
suggested in the plans. I have a friend who was a pilot in the Navy and
when he was visiting, he said that he would be concerned about using an
electric pencil because of it potentially leading to stress fractures. Now
I'm questioning if this is a safe practice. Can you guys tell me what you
think, and what most of you do to mark the parts in preparation for priming?
Thanks,
Allan James
RV-7A tail in Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
Allan, Of course you need to clean metal with your choice of cleaners such as
Coleman Lantern Fluid, Acetone, Mek, etc., but after you clean, take a
permanent marking pen (sharpie) and write the part no. then prime. I use
Varaprime (green) and I can still see my info under the primer.
As long as you don't scribe waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy deep with an electric scribe
pin you will be fine using that method.
Of course if you use the alodine/epoxy enamel method-which I have on my tail
but stopped that over kill with the wings-you will not see the markings.
Contact me off list if I can help more.
Bob in Arkansas, finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Does new battery technology change decision on mounting? |
Hi all,
I'm building the RV-8 and plan to put in a I0-360 with inverted system and
constant speed. The thinking has been that this would mean a rear battery
mount. I recall a recent discussion of newer lightweight batteries now
available. My recollection was that they were intended for non-aircraft
operation. Would it be reasonable to think about mounting on the firewall
now?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
arjames(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm a new builder of an RV-7A, and a first time builder. I've begun the
> empennage and I've started marking the parts with an electric pencil as
> suggested in the plans. I have a friend who was a pilot in the Navy and
> when he was visiting, he said that he would be concerned about using an
> electric pencil because of it potentially leading to stress fractures. Now
> I'm questioning if this is a safe practice. Can you guys tell me what you
> think, and what most of you do to mark the parts in preparation for priming?
>
> Thanks,
> Allan James
> RV-7A tail in Michigan
>
Like others have said, just use a sharpie marker it can be seen fine after
priming.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | arjames(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
I should have mentioned that I was planning on going the full treatment of
cleaning with an etching cleaner, alodine, and epoxy primer. I've struggled
with this decision, but that's the way I plan to go (at this moment). A
marker would not hold up under this.
Allan James
>was said:
>Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 11:18 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Marking parts before priming>
>
> Like others have said, just use a sharpie marker it can be seen fine after
> priming.
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
Should I be concerned about leaving my RV-4 out in the rain? There is
no seal of any kind on the avionics bay cover, and there is no seal
where the forward part of the canopy meets the fuselage. Seems like
water would flow back and run right into the instrument panel.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
houston, tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
----- Original Message -----
From: <arjames(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marking parts before priming
>
> I should have mentioned that I was planning on going the full treatment of
> cleaning with an etching cleaner, alodine, and epoxy primer. I've
struggled
> with this decision, but that's the way I plan to go (at this moment). A
> marker would not hold up under this.
>
> Allan James
>
Hi Allan,
If you keep track of the part description, identities or numbers during the
preparation for priming then re-mark them with a Sharpie just before you
prime them you will find the markings will bleed through and they will be
marked for life.
The electric etching if done lightly and away from structural areas will
work also. A heavy coat of primer could hide etched markings.
When priming resist the urge to put on a "nice" thick coat. unless you don't
mind adding a surprising amount of unnecessary weight.
When your primer coat is smooth and even and you can just see a hint of the
metal color showing you have reached the optimum coating thickness.
I was told this by a very well informed paint rep and try as I might I
always managed to put just a little more than he suggested. I know now that
had he said nothing. my RV would have been a primer fatty by at least ten to
fifteen pounds
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection |
Guys, Your playing with your life here. If this is the longeron I think
you are talking about, that baby carries the load of the tail (torsional,
tensil and compresive) to the engine mount. The engine provides the thrust,
everything behind it is drag. Leaving a 1/4" of metal either side of that
hole on one of the two sides doesn't leave much. I was real leary about
drilling the #18 holes for the 10-32 bolts to hold the rudder cables as they
exit the fuselage. 1/4" holes no way!
Bottom line, Ask Van, seriously. This is a structural thing.
Rick
RV-4 Builder
-----Original Message-----
From: Vincent Welch [mailto:welchvincent(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection
Take a look at AC43.13, they show a procedure for making a ground point. I
followed their procedure and used a 1/4" AN bolt. The longeron is 3/4", so
that leaves 1/4" edge distance. Not flying yet but I have been reading .01
ohms from several locations on the airframe to the ground point.
Vince
RV-8A Finishing
>From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection
>Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 17:20:28 -0400
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "David L. Grebe"
>
>I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's
>suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW
>resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron
>F889....big
>holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then
>there's that copper to aluminum joint...
>
>What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!!
>
>
>David Grebe
>RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
>Starting Finishing Kit
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Matronics Fuel Chec installation |
Looking for comments from anyone who has installed the above system on an
RV-4. Where and how dd you mount: Fuel flow transducer, pressure
transducer, fuel filter/gascololator, electric fule pump, etc. I have
O320 - 150hp engine with carb.
I am rebuilding N144KT and am at the stage in fusellage construction where
some forward planning will make life a lot easier later.
Richard BIbb
N144KT - RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Rain |
Get a good canopy cover that pretects that area as water will leak in
otherwise.
RB
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 12:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: RVs in the Rain
>
>Should I be concerned about leaving my RV-4 out in the rain? There is
>no seal of any kind on the avionics bay cover, and there is no seal
>where the forward part of the canopy meets the fuselage. Seems like
>water would flow back and run right into the instrument panel.
>
>Jeff Bertsch
>noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
>houston, tx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:19:11 AM
Mark the part and put a small piece of electrical tape 1" X .5" over the
part number. Do what you want to the metal and then prime. Later take a
scribe and lift the tape and remove. Now you have a little bare spot with a
part number on it, pick your location for the bare spot (a web of a rib or
some place contact isn't made. Yeah, I know, leave bare metal on my plane
"ahhhhhh, she's going to break apart and crash into schools and kill the
orphans". This works great when you have really big prime job like doing
the whole wing. Otherwise, just use a fat sharpie and it will bleed through
if you don't paint too thick.
Eric
arjames(at)comcast.net@matronics.com on 04/08/2002 11:38:36 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marking parts before priming
I should have mentioned that I was planning on going the full treatment of
cleaning with an etching cleaner, alodine, and epoxy primer. I've
struggled
with this decision, but that's the way I plan to go (at this moment). A
marker would not hold up under this.
Allan James
>was said:
>Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 11:18 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Marking parts before priming>
>
> Like others have said, just use a sharpie marker it can be seen fine
after
> priming.
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | reply to Where to Mt new style batts AND RV-4 in the rain |
Re: the poster's question about the new style batts. I've been using an
Odyssey for some time now and have written so much about it, you'd think I
was getting a commission.
Bottom line, it weighs 12 lbs.
I think you need to do the W&B calcs yourself. Find an RV-8 that is built
and flying. Get the w&B paperwork and find out where the batt is mounted.
How far aft or ahead of the datum. Ideally you should find one with an
i0-360 and a constant speed. (not hard to find) If you know their model
bat and where it is, you can play around with a batteryless airplane and
experiment with where to mt your 12lb odyssey.
RE RV-4 IN THE RAIN.
Yup, they leak, they leak like a sieve. I've left mine in the rain, a
couple of times and the back of the instruments were wet after the 1st time.
Everything worked fine, but it can't be good. Now I carry a couple of big
black garbage bags and a small roll of medical tape with me at all times.
If I'm leaving the plane and there is any chance of rain, I coverthe seams
from the back of the cowling to the front of the instrument panel and tuck
the rear edge under the closed canopy.
Also, the fuel caps tend to leak water in when it rains. If it may rain, I
remove the cap and stretch a surgical glove over the unit. Then I reinsert
the cap and close the latch. I now have what looks like a hand sticking
out of my wing, but it doesn't leak. You can also use a condom, but I'd
rather have a hand than a . . .sticking out of my wing. The new
polyurethane gloves are thinner and tougher and seem to work better if you
can mooch some from a friend who is a doc/nurse/emt.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Anybody have one of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41288
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon at Sun n Fun? |
I did not see Dynon during my somewhat quick walk through Sunday.
Finn
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> Did anyone look up the Dynon representatives at Sun n Fun? If so....what's
> the haps? How do the units look? When are they going into production? Will
> they tumble and roll and become unable to right themselves?
>
> Ross Mickey
> Hole in panel for an EFIS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
Allen,
For what its worth...I marked some parts on the RV-4 with sharpie and
veriprimed over as has been suggessted, however I did not really find this
all that necessary. I had not trouble identifying the parts after priming
whether I marked or not. Don't waste a lot of time on it....there are many
more important things to waste time on in building one of these things IMHO.
Not putting down anyone who thinks you do need to do this, just that I
found it totally unnecessary. Tere are not too many identical parts oon the
airplane that you could get confused on which goes where after priming.
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: arjames(at)comcast.net <arjames(at)comcast.net>
Date: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Marking parts before priming
>
>Listers,
>
> I'm a new builder of an RV-7A, and a first time builder. I've begun
the
>empennage and I've started marking the parts with an electric pencil as
>suggested in the plans. I have a friend who was a pilot in the Navy and
>when he was visiting, he said that he would be concerned about using an
>electric pencil because of it potentially leading to stress fractures. Now
>I'm questioning if this is a safe practice. Can you guys tell me what you
>think, and what most of you do to mark the parts in preparation for
priming?
>
>Thanks,
>Allan James
>RV-7A tail in Michigan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
Another way is to cut one inch squares out of some scrap aluminum and number
them with number punches drill with a small drill and attach with tag wire.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <arjames(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Marking parts before priming
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm a new builder of an RV-7A, and a first time builder. I've begun
the
> empennage and I've started marking the parts with an electric pencil as
> suggested in the plans. I have a friend who was a pilot in the Navy and
> when he was visiting, he said that he would be concerned about using an
> electric pencil because of it potentially leading to stress fractures.
Now
> I'm questioning if this is a safe practice. Can you guys tell me what you
> think, and what most of you do to mark the parts in preparation for
priming?
>
> Thanks,
> Allan James
> RV-7A tail in Michigan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
About the bleed-through with permanent markers ...
Yesterday I painted the interior of my fuselage with Cardinal spray cans of
lacquer that match the powder coat that Van uses. Most of the parts had
been primed. I could see some of the permanent marker marks I had made
under the NAPA spray primer, and some of that bled through any number of
coats of the final lacquer finish. I had to use lacquer thinner and take it
back down to bare metal and start over with the finish to get it to go away.
The same applies to the factory-made marks on the aluminum sheet -- the
grade, temper and thickness of the sheet. I hadn't removed that in the rear
baggage compartment, and it was just as readable after several coats of
lacquer as when bare.
So, if you are going to use permanent markers, mark it where you won't mind
seeing it in your finished airplane.
Terry
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
Yes.
Works great on my motorcycle battery, but I have not tried one on my
RV-4 yet.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wag Aero / ICS radio |
I flew with an ICS radio in my RV-4 for 3 years. It performed flawlessly, and outperformed
the Narco MK12D that it replaced. The bar indicators for cdi and
glideslope worked well for me. Lots of memory for local radio frequencies.
I bought one for my -8 project, so I am a believer...
Frank Dombroski
-8 Canopy
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Does new battery technology change decision on |
Hello-
Just got back fro S-N-F and was asking three builders
and a transition trainer that gave me my first ride in
in an Rv-6 about this very issue. I am building an
-8a with an IO360-a1b6 and a CS prop.
Net-net - everybody said that I would need weight in
the back of the -8 and that I may even need to place
additional weight in the tail to get the CG and
handling on landings to work right. I only weigh 150
and they said that some builders have either instaled
a 5 lb weight in the very end of the tail or kept a
case of oil in the rear luggage.
Anyone else out there with an IO3060 face this issue?
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Rain |
I wrap mine with clear plastic Handi-Wrap before installing the cover
M Elrod
n72mv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Back from Sun-n-fun - avionics - blue mountain, Dynon etc |
Back for a couple of mements and then on the road
again.
Dynon wasn't there...
Blue Mountain's Lite version looks good - its
basically the upper left quadrant that is displayed on
EFIS/1 - they have also added a heading indicator
(although you don't see the dial of the DG) for ~650
(don't quote me on price) - I think that I am going
to do it. Anybody install one yet?
A couple of smoking RV-s there. Great craftmanship.
I'll try to get some pics up later .....
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marking parts before priming |
In a message dated 4/9/2002 8:37:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
>
> Another way is to cut one inch squares out of some scrap aluminum and
> number
> them with number punches drill with a small drill and attach with tag wire.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
Or use key tags from the stationary store. Personally I haven't found a need
to mark any parts. Small parts are put into plastic storage bags and the bag
marked.
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection |
| From: | John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com> |
I don't like using the airframe as a ground. On my RV-6 I grounded
everything, engine, battery, ground bus, etc. to a large fire wall engine
mounting bolt. (didn't have to run the ground wire through the fire wall
that way). I had some odd electrical problems with my Electronics
International instruments until I ran a ground wire to the above
grounding point. I had only grounded the ground bus to the stainless
steel fire wall (bad idea).
I did use a airframe ground for my wing tip landing lights. When I turn
these lights on, I get about 10 degrees of compass deviation. Should
have grounded them to the ground bus. I suspect that an airframe ground
may set up some unwanted magnetic fields. Maybe an electrical engineer
would know the answer to that.
On my -8 project I plan on full size (#4 I believe it is, off hand)
ground wire to the common battery, engine ground on the fire wall.
Boyd Seal
Flying RV-6 building RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back from Sun-n-fun - avionics - blue mountain, Dynon etc |
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> Back for a couple of mements and then on the road
> again.
>
> Dynon wasn't there...
>
> Blue Mountain's Lite version looks good - its
> basically the upper left quadrant that is displayed on
> EFIS/1 - they have also added a heading indicator
> (although you don't see the dial of the DG) for ~650
> (don't quote me on price) - I think that I am going
> to do it. Anybody install one yet?
>
Dag, the EFIS/Lite you saw at Blue Mountain is MINE! =8
0
Greg told me to come pick it up when they return from S-N-F; I will be
installing and evaluating it soon after. The heading option is an
additional $780.00. Think about it....a DG that never needs to be set
and never precesses. Greg told me nearly 90% of all EFIS/Lites are being
ordered with the heading option.
Yep, it is a very impressive unit! Hope Greg doesn't wear it out (or
drop it!) at S-N-F..... :-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back from Sun-n-fun - avionics - blue mountain, Dynon etc |
On a tandem (in my case, 8A), it would seem the back-seater could share the
workload via a simple instrument such as the IPAQ-based EFIS-type product
from www.icarusinstruments.com . Did anyone see this at SNF?? This
wouldn't be a panel addition, such as Blue Mountain, but either a back-up,
independent of the other A/C systems, or, something to keep the back-seater
occupied. Comments? (particularly interested in whether the display is
visible in sunlight).
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back from Sun-n-fun - avionics - blue mountain, Dynon
etc
>
>
> dag adamson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Back for a couple of mements and then on the road
> > again.
> >
> > Dynon wasn't there...
> >
> > Blue Mountain's Lite version looks good - its
> > basically the upper left quadrant that is displayed on
> > EFIS/1 - they have also added a heading indicator
> > (although you don't see the dial of the DG) for ~650
> > (don't quote me on price) - I think that I am going
> > to do it. Anybody install one yet?
> >
>
> Dag, the EFIS/Lite you saw at Blue Mountain is MINE! =8
0
>
> Greg told me to come pick it up when they return from S-N-F; I will be
> installing and evaluating it soon after. The heading option is an
> additional $780.00. Think about it....a DG that never needs to be set
> and never precesses. Greg told me nearly 90% of all EFIS/Lites are being
> ordered with the heading option.
>
> Yep, it is a very impressive unit! Hope Greg doesn't wear it out (or
> drop it!) at S-N-F..... :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe-Home" <moejoe(at)comcast.net> |
I recently sold my RV8 kit, and I've got some aviation tools for sale, if
anyone is interested.
They are listed at:
http://www.tabshred.com/moe/avery.htm
Thanks,
Moe Colontonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Battery chargers |
I have seen a thread about Battery chargers and maintenance thereof of
late:
If any of you find yourselves using a lot of different types
rechargeable batteries and find it hard to manage recharging and
maintaining more than to or three types simultaneously have a look the
offering at:
Http://home.att.net/~LitcoSys/
Being an ex- RC flyer I have had one of these units for several years
now and I am very happy that bit the bullet and paid what appeared at
the time to be the high price for it.
The Alpha4 charger is at the very least everything Litco claims it to
be. I have analyzed, recharged, and maintained all my various car, truck
and motorcycle, batteries along with and at the same time as various Gel
cells, Nicads and Nickel Metal Hydrides for everything I use.
flashlights, Camcorders Portable computers, battery powered tools etc.
The list of features goes on too long to list in this posting.
After several years of constant use this unit has never let me down.
Lithium batteries are the only type of battery that I do not have and
that the Alpha4 will not handle. So far for me all others are coverd.
Read the product description and the FAQ's on their site and you will
see why (in my opinion) these units are hard to get and well worth the
asking price.
I have no connection with Litco of any sort, just charged up about the
Alpha4! {:-)!!
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>>Should I be concerned about leaving my RV-4 out in the rain? There is
>>no seal of any kind on the avionics bay cover, and there is no seal
>>where the forward part of the canopy meets the fuselage. Seems like
>>water would flow back and run right into the instrument panel.
You should have a canopy cover for several reasons, keeping water out is
one of them. I park at OSH every year and every year it RAINS. Very
little gets in, however, cuz the canopy cover does an excellent job of
keeping things dry. Protects the canopy, keeps the sun off the interior,
keeps prying eyes away. However, I do leave it off in good weather at
OSH so fellow builders/flyers can peak at the cockpit. Always covered
when away from home otherwise, rain or no.
Fuel cap leaks: mine seal pretty well but some water leaks in. I remove
the excess water around the cap (blow on it) before opening them. And
also, of course, drain the tank sumps before each flight. I have seen
devices advertised to help keep water out but have never seen them on an
airplane. I work the line at OSH and see a lot of airplanes parked in
the rain. No tank lid covers.
Wish it would rain around here..........
Michael
OSH: pretty soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aft Battery Connection |
JERRY-some people dont know but CONCORD BATTERYS ARE STCfor gulfstream-tom
-G4SP
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Rain |
In a message dated 4/8/2002 9:21:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Should I be concerned about leaving my RV-4 out in the rain? There is
> no seal of any kind on the avionics bay cover, and there is no seal
> where the forward part of the canopy meets the fuselage. Seems like
> water would flow back and run right into the instrument panel.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
> houston, tx
>
You got that right Jeff, I put a 1/4x1/4 strip of open cell foam to
seal over the top of the instrument panel, it helps a little. Do Not
Archive
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
In a message dated 4/9/2002 5:57:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com writes:
> Anybody have one of these?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41288
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
I got one Bill, I use it to keep my motorcycle battery topped off in
the winter. It works OK. Should work on a full size battery too. Do
not archive
Fred (Flintstone) LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA Tech Counselor in
SO.CAL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | SnF Trip (long post warning) |
This is a long post, touching on the RV experience, but mostly about a
memorable trip to SnF over the weekend. If you're not interested, hit delete
now...
I had a rare experience on my trip to Sun-N-Fun this year - significant tail
winds in both directions! The 400 nautical miles only took 2.5 hours from
takeoff to being parked at SnF. The return trip took 2.5 hours as well.
Most groundspeeds were in the upper 170 and lower 180 knot range, with the
high being 192 knots when I was doing a cruise-descent from altitude, and the
low being 150 knots during a cruise-climb. I didn't check the fuel situation
when I got back last night, but it took under 18 gallons to refill the tanks
at Lakeland, so the trip was fast and efficient.
I arrived in Lakeland early Saturday morning, (about 8:15 or so), because
they were projecting sporty crosswinds, and soon joined a few friends who had
already flown or driven in. They were kind enough to help carry my stuff
from the plane to the campsite, which was probably a day and a half's walk
from the flightline. Later in the day, my buddy Wayne arrived after his 4
hour cross country drive from Boca Raton, FL.
The early arrival turned out to be a good thing, because the predicted
crosswinds showed up with an attitude. As Wayne and I walked the flight line
that afternoon, there was a 15+/- knot crosswind at 60 degrees to the runway,
with gusts thrown in. Surprisingly, there were no groundloops. On the other
hand, in a couple of hours we witnessed 3 accidents, two near accidents, and
were told we overlooked another close call. There were more than a few dicey
landings, particularly in Cubs and the like, but, in general, the tailwheel
crowd did OK. The C-172 guys seemed to have (and cause) more than their
share of difficulties, fighting the crosswind, and trying the clever ploy of
"flying it down the runway at 45 knots" while a Lancair or other fast ship
was closing on them from behind.
While we were walking the flightline, a Mooney landed gear up. It made an
awful "there goes the kid's college fund" noise as it slid down the runway.
Aluminum on asphalt doesn't create a lot of friction, so it slid a long way.
Supposedly, the controllers were telling the guy to extend his gear from
short final until his "arrival". That closed the wide runway.
A few minutes later, a guy in a Baby Ace (a single place homebuilt parasol
with a tailwheel) tried a wheel landing, got too aggressive on the forward
stick and brakes, and nosed over. That happened right in front of us - we
saw the plane tip and the prop splinter. Luckily, there was no other obvious
damage. That closed the narrow runway. For a while, both runways were
closed, but they got the Mooney up on its gear with a crane, and tipped the
Baby Ace back up, and we were back in business...
About 1/2 hour later, Monty (a friend of mine who is deeply involved in a
local private air museum, and who bucked lots of rivets on my RV), was
landing in a Navion, and a couple of guys (one of whom I've met, as it turns
out) were making a formation landing behind him in their Extra 300's (Despite
the controller's stating "No side by side. Nose to tail landings only."). The
Extras got too close, and the lead Extra made a successful go around, but the
#2 Extra mushed into the Navion, chopping up the Navion's left flap and pilot
side passenger compartment, then severing its tail. The tailless Navion
rolled (on its wheels) down the runway, with the passenger sliding the canopy
back and jumping over the side at about 15 MPH, before the plane stopped.
The Extra nosed over right after the collision. I recognized Monty as he
exited the Navion. I was told, but can't confirm, that the Extra's prop cut
into the Navion's fuse in front of Monty's knee, and again just behind his
seat before it chopped the tail off (which I can confirm). I witnessed this
accident beginning with the collision, so the information regarding the radio
talk and anything preceding the actual collision came from friends who saw
and heard the events leading up to the crash. The best thing is that nobody
was hurt, but this accident could have easily caused multiple fatalities.
Later, an EZ made a wild landing, but escaped without damage, and a Murphy
Renegade biplane drug a wingtip. How he avoided a groundloop is a mystery to
me. Also, a Cessna apparently made a scary go around, low, slow, and wobbly
and near the crowd, but we didn't see that. We saw several other bone head
stunts, including a Cessna landing on the runway that was closed because of
the collision. I don't think the FAA should be overzealous at these shows,
but people who make serious errors (like landing on a closed runway, or
landing in formation despite clear instructions against that) need a
write-up, an FAA check ride, or both.
Hours later, we walked by the wing dragging biplane to check it for damage
and the owner was nearby talking on his cell phone. We overheard "Yeah, I
think it is the same wingtip as before. I think so and so knows how to fix
it". Sure enough, he'd chewed up a small portion of his fiberglass wingtip,
but I'm sure a little duct tape would have gotten him home.
But I digress...
On Sunday and Monday, we spent more time on the flightline and going through
the commercial displays. I looked closely at oxygen systems and baby EFIS
systems, but fiscal sanity ruled the day. Still, there are some outstanding
products out there, and if someone gave me $5,000 and told me I had to spend
it in an afternoon, I would have only needed 15 minutes. In the end, I
bought a couple of year's worth of ancient issues of Sport Aviation. A great
value at $3.00 per year.
In the showplane area, I recognized many RV-List names on "Judge Me" prop
signs. There were some outstanding aircraft on display. There were numerous
RV's in the commercial display areas, and lots of RV's in the camping areas.
I didn't count, but there were probably over 200 RV's at the show. One thing
that I noticed is that while the number of RV's keeps growing, the attendance
by other types seems to be dwindling. A few years ago, it seemed that there
were more rows of Glasairs, Lancairs, and Kitfoxes than there were at this
year's show. It may be that Van's continues to introduce new and
meaningfully different aircraft, while the other manufacturers have more or
less the same product line they had 5 or more years ago. To support their
effort, Van's brought their RV-6, 6A, 7, 8A, 9A, and 9. There may have been
more factory aircraft there, but I missed 'em.
I was disappointed that there were no Hatzes at SnF, because I wanted to sit
in one, since I'm fiddling with lots of small Hatz parts in my garage these
days...
We made a special trip (way out of the way) to Chopper Town, to see how an
acquaintance was doing selling turbine conversions for the Rotorway series of
helicopters. Having never been to Chopper Town I flagged down an older
gentleman on a golf cart and asked directions. Mr. Poberezny was happy to
point us in the right direction before resuming his trip over to the
ultralight area.
On Monday morning, the nice people at the on-site FSS advised that the
weather window back to NW Georgia would close sometime that night or early
Tuesday morning, so my friends (again) helped load the airplane before the
show, and I did a preflight to facilitate a quick departure following the
airshow. This worked out well, because I was only number 50 or so in line to
depart after the show, not number 500.
While waiting in line to takeoff after the show, one guy was on the departure
frequency complaining about having to wait ("our line isn't moving and the
other one is..."). After he complained several times, someone else jumped in
and asked if he wanted cheese with his whine. It degenerated rapidly from
there into threats of violence: "Oh yeah, quit hiding behind that microphone,
pick a place to meet, and we'll settle this in person buddy!"... Juvenile,
but entertaining. Reminded me of the South Park cartoon. After about 5
minutes of this the feds told them to shut up.
On departure, I took off behind a Cherokee that had launched behind a Piper
Malibu. The RV caught and passed the Cherokee fairly quickly. It took a
little longer to catch the Malibu, but that might be because the RV wasn't
only outrunning the Malibu, it was outclimbing it as well. Oh well, $950,000
doesn't go as far as it used to...
The trip home was uneventful, and the night landing reminded me that I've
gotta do something about that landing light...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection |
I dont mean to disagree, simple pass on more info.
On my -8, I grounded whatever to anywhere convenient on the airframe, from
wing tip lights, wing lights, heated pitot, to the instruments in the panel.
I just grounded anything to the nearest airframe surface I could find.
The panel is basic IFR, and I must have 20 ground points scattered around
behind the panel and on the panel surface itself, in the case its post
lights.
I did check all grounds and between grounds with a standard radio shack type
ohmmeter, and sometimes I had to sand primer off aluminum, but otherwise the
ohmmeter didn't show any detectable resistence between ground points on the
airframe.
The battery is grounded to an engine mount bolt with #2 cable, and the
engine is grounded to the engine mount on the opposite side of the plane
also with #2. I also made sure I had good electrical connectivity to all
control surfaces.
Fortunately this chaotic scheme worked ok, I see no impact on the compass,
radio transmissions, headset, VOR/GS, GPS, etc.
I did have to go back and add a power filter to the car stereo CD player
motor power to removed the motor whine, and rewire the electric T/C with
shielded wire.
Greg Miller
N89GM, 125 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John B Seal
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection
--> RV8-List message posted by: John B Seal
I don't like using the airframe as a ground. On my RV-6 I grounded
everything, engine, battery, ground bus, etc. to a large fire wall engine
mounting bolt. (didn't have to run the ground wire through the fire wall
that way). I had some odd electrical problems with my Electronics
International instruments until I ran a ground wire to the above
grounding point. I had only grounded the ground bus to the stainless
steel fire wall (bad idea).
I did use a airframe ground for my wing tip landing lights. When I turn
these lights on, I get about 10 degrees of compass deviation. Should
have grounded them to the ground bus. I suspect that an airframe ground
may set up some unwanted magnetic fields. Maybe an electrical engineer
would know the answer to that.
On my -8 project I plan on full size (#4 I believe it is, off hand)
ground wire to the common battery, engine ground on the fire wall.
Boyd Seal
Flying RV-6 building RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
If your static port is having problems it will also effect your ASI and your
ALT.
Cabin VSI will just be kinda slow motion squirrely as you work the rudder or
pitch as they will both effect the interior pressure due to some slight
canopy seepage. This may not show up at any readings greater than 200fpm
though.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | SnF Trip (long post warning) |
Kyle (and RV-List) ...
I too saw the Extra cut the Navion, but the following may be of interest
(because may RV's will fly to places where there are others landing and many
RVs are tailwheels)...
I witnessed the accident starting to unfold about 2-3 planes AHEAD of the
Navion. What I saw and complained to those around me (did not have my
handheld) was a light colored tailwheel seeming of say the 40's vintage
basically landing "on the numbers" (as opposed to 1/2 - 2/3 the way down per
NOTAM) and moseying slowly down the runway. I said to those around me "this
is not good ... he has at least three hot planes behind him in line ..go !
go! go!". Navion now seemingly forced to land early (and probably slower
than would have otherwise) and the Extras that are setting up for landing in
a nose up have just swung the Navion into the "blind spot". Navion slow,
Extras fast .... you know the rest.
The Extra pilot probably saw the s-l-o-w vintage tailwheel ahead where he
*probably* had wanted to land and thus landed a bit sooner so as not to land
on top of him.
One of the Extras did break off and escape the crash. The other gave a bit
of power just before because (per him) he hit a bit of turbulence (was
probably Navion prop wash but he did not see the Navion underneath). This
touch of power MAY have saved the life of your (Kyle's) friend.
As I said, I did not have my handheld. I wonder if the controllers saw this
unfolding (they have a LOT to watch during this arrival period), and if they
did, I wonder how aggressive they were *IF* they were on calling a "GO
AROUND EXTRA(S) ON SHORT FINAL!!"
I hope this does not sound like I am trying to place any blame (I am not).
It is just so we can all think about the picture so we (hopefully) avoid
repeating it. For after a certain point there was nothing the pilot of the
Navion or the Extra could do but hang on for the ride and bail out As Soon
As Feasible. All we could do was hope and pray that nobody got hurt.
Again, thank goodness, neither was hurt.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: SnF Trip (long post warning)
This is a long post, touching on the RV experience, but mostly about a
memorable trip to SnF over the weekend. If you're not interested, hit
delete
now...
I had a rare experience on my trip to Sun-N-Fun this year - significant tail
winds in both directions! The 400 nautical miles only took 2.5 hours from
takeoff to being parked at SnF. The return trip took 2.5 hours as well.
Most groundspeeds were in the upper 170 and lower 180 knot range, with the
high being 192 knots when I was doing a cruise-descent from altitude, and
the
low being 150 knots during a cruise-climb. I didn't check the fuel
situation
when I got back last night, but it took under 18 gallons to refill the tanks
at Lakeland, so the trip was fast and efficient.
I arrived in Lakeland early Saturday morning, (about 8:15 or so), because
they were projecting sporty crosswinds, and soon joined a few friends who
had
already flown or driven in. They were kind enough to help carry my stuff
from the plane to the campsite, which was probably a day and a half's walk
from the flightline. Later in the day, my buddy Wayne arrived after his 4
hour cross country drive from Boca Raton, FL.
The early arrival turned out to be a good thing, because the predicted
crosswinds showed up with an attitude. As Wayne and I walked the flight
line
that afternoon, there was a 15+/- knot crosswind at 60 degrees to the
runway,
with gusts thrown in. Surprisingly, there were no groundloops. On the
other
hand, in a couple of hours we witnessed 3 accidents, two near accidents, and
were told we overlooked another close call. There were more than a few
dicey
landings, particularly in Cubs and the like, but, in general, the tailwheel
crowd did OK. The C-172 guys seemed to have (and cause) more than their
share of difficulties, fighting the crosswind, and trying the clever ploy of
"flying it down the runway at 45 knots" while a Lancair or other fast ship
was closing on them from behind.
While we were walking the flightline, a Mooney landed gear up. It made an
awful "there goes the kid's college fund" noise as it slid down the runway.
Aluminum on asphalt doesn't create a lot of friction, so it slid a long way.
Supposedly, the controllers were telling the guy to extend his gear from
short final until his "arrival". That closed the wide runway.
A few minutes later, a guy in a Baby Ace (a single place homebuilt parasol
with a tailwheel) tried a wheel landing, got too aggressive on the forward
stick and brakes, and nosed over. That happened right in front of us - we
saw the plane tip and the prop splinter. Luckily, there was no other obvious
damage. That closed the narrow runway. For a while, both runways were
closed, but they got the Mooney up on its gear with a crane, and tipped the
Baby Ace back up, and we were back in business...
About 1/2 hour later, Monty (a friend of mine who is deeply involved in a
local private air museum, and who bucked lots of rivets on my RV), was
landing in a Navion, and a couple of guys (one of whom I've met, as it turns
out) were making a formation landing behind him in their Extra 300's
(Despite
the controller's stating "No side by side. Nose to tail landings only.").
The
Extras got too close, and the lead Extra made a successful go around, but
the
#2 Extra mushed into the Navion, chopping up the Navion's left flap and
pilot
side passenger compartment, then severing its tail. The tailless Navion
rolled (on its wheels) down the runway, with the passenger sliding the
canopy
back and jumping over the side at about 15 MPH, before the plane stopped.
The Extra nosed over right after the collision. I recognized Monty as he
exited the Navion. I was told, but can't confirm, that the Extra's prop cut
into the Navion's fuse in front of Monty's knee, and again just behind his
seat before it chopped the tail off (which I can confirm). I witnessed this
accident beginning with the collision, so the information regarding the
radio
talk and anything preceding the actual collision came from friends who saw
and heard the events leading up to the crash. The best thing is that nobody
was hurt, but this accident could have easily caused multiple fatalities.
Later, an EZ made a wild landing, but escaped without damage, and a Murphy
Renegade biplane drug a wingtip. How he avoided a groundloop is a mystery to
me. Also, a Cessna apparently made a scary go around, low, slow, and
wobbly
and near the crowd, but we didn't see that. We saw several other bone head
stunts, including a Cessna landing on the runway that was closed because of
the collision. I don't think the FAA should be overzealous at these shows,
but people who make serious errors (like landing on a closed runway, or
landing in formation despite clear instructions against that) need a
write-up, an FAA check ride, or both.
Hours later, we walked by the wing dragging biplane to check it for damage
and the owner was nearby talking on his cell phone. We overheard "Yeah, I
think it is the same wingtip as before. I think so and so knows how to fix
it". Sure enough, he'd chewed up a small portion of his fiberglass wingtip,
but I'm sure a little duct tape would have gotten him home.
But I digress...
On Sunday and Monday, we spent more time on the flightline and going through
the commercial displays. I looked closely at oxygen systems and baby EFIS
systems, but fiscal sanity ruled the day. Still, there are some outstanding
products out there, and if someone gave me $5,000 and told me I had to spend
it in an afternoon, I would have only needed 15 minutes. In the end, I
bought a couple of year's worth of ancient issues of Sport Aviation. A great
value at $3.00 per year.
In the showplane area, I recognized many RV-List names on "Judge Me" prop
signs. There were some outstanding aircraft on display. There were numerous
RV's in the commercial display areas, and lots of RV's in the camping areas.
I didn't count, but there were probably over 200 RV's at the show. One thing
that I noticed is that while the number of RV's keeps growing, the
attendance
by other types seems to be dwindling. A few years ago, it seemed that there
were more rows of Glasairs, Lancairs, and Kitfoxes than there were at this
year's show. It may be that Van's continues to introduce new and
meaningfully different aircraft, while the other manufacturers have more or
less the same product line they had 5 or more years ago. To support their
effort, Van's brought their RV-6, 6A, 7, 8A, 9A, and 9. There may have been
more factory aircraft there, but I missed 'em.
I was disappointed that there were no Hatzes at SnF, because I wanted to sit
in one, since I'm fiddling with lots of small Hatz parts in my garage these
days...
We made a special trip (way out of the way) to Chopper Town, to see how an
acquaintance was doing selling turbine conversions for the Rotorway series
of
helicopters. Having never been to Chopper Town I flagged down an older
gentleman on a golf cart and asked directions. Mr. Poberezny was happy to
point us in the right direction before resuming his trip over to the
ultralight area.
On Monday morning, the nice people at the on-site FSS advised that the
weather window back to NW Georgia would close sometime that night or early
Tuesday morning, so my friends (again) helped load the airplane before the
show, and I did a preflight to facilitate a quick departure following the
airshow. This worked out well, because I was only number 50 or so in line
to
depart after the show, not number 500.
While waiting in line to takeoff after the show, one guy was on the
departure
frequency complaining about having to wait ("our line isn't moving and the
other one is..."). After he complained several times, someone else jumped
in
and asked if he wanted cheese with his whine. It degenerated rapidly from
there into threats of violence: "Oh yeah, quit hiding behind that
microphone,
pick a place to meet, and we'll settle this in person buddy!"... Juvenile,
but entertaining. Reminded me of the South Park cartoon. After about 5
minutes of this the feds told them to shut up.
On departure, I took off behind a Cherokee that had launched behind a Piper
Malibu. The RV caught and passed the Cherokee fairly quickly. It took a
little longer to catch the Malibu, but that might be because the RV wasn't
only outrunning the Malibu, it was outclimbing it as well. Oh well,
$950,000
doesn't go as far as it used to...
The trip home was uneventful, and the night landing reminded me that I've
gotta do something about that landing light...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <brian.duncan(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon at Sun n Fun? |
Definitely not at Sun n Fun. I overheard the EFIS guy talking about Dynon;
He questioned the future of the company. Apparently they had been talking
about working together, but things didn't work out. Just rumors.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Subject: RV-List: Dynon at Sun n Fun?
Did anyone look up the Dynon representatives at Sun n Fun? If so....what's
the haps? How do the units look? When are they going into production? Will
they tumble and roll and become unable to right themselves?
Ross Mickey
Hole in panel for an EFIS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | PayPal and my titanium Ti-downs |
Hi RV builders and flyers,
This is a note to let you know I'm accepting PayPal payment now for my
titanium Ti-downs. There's a couple of PayPal buttons on my Ti-down website
(one for the standard "set" and one for the "kit" (the PayPal buttons on my
website already include a $10 RV-list/EAA discount).
I've found PayPal to be a good, secure payment system. If you haven't
registered with PayPal yet, you should, IMO. If you register with PayPal
using me (airtime(at)proaxis.com) as a reference, I'll reduce your set or kit
an additional $10. If you decide to do that, send me an email and I'll send
you a reduced PayPal bill.
I'm so confident you'll like my titanium Ti-downs, I've decided to extend
the "satisfaction guarantee" for at least 3 years. If you're dissatisfied
with your Ti-downs for any reason, return them within 3 yrs, and I'll
refund your purchase price and the return postage. This goes for all my
past customers too.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
p.s. I'm still wearing my RV grin *smile*
pp.s. I'm gearing up and looking forward to my first OshKosh visit this
year...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. |
Dana, after watching (and flying) a lot of S-N-F and OSH arrivals, I
have come to the conclusion that a huge percentage of active pilots
haven't a clue as to HOW to land long. Every bit of instruction they
have ever received, and all their flying experience has involved landing
on the first available bit of runway. Tell them to land on the FAR end
of the runway and they are clueless.
I suggest that all pilots, and we are talking primarily to RVers in this
forum, if you are planning to fly into LAL or OSH, practice landing on
the LAST 1000' feet of a long runway. While you are at it practice
slowing to 100 kts about ten miles from the airport, and maintain 100
kts, and no more than 100 kts, all the way to short final.
If you are incapable of this particular bit of airmanship.........stay
away from LAL and OSH!!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
===================================
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
> After spending two SNFs in the ground advisory tower, I can tell you
> problems at SNF are primarily caused by pilots flying in without ever
> reading the NOTAM. The main problem on the runway is people landing short
> and stacking up the airplanes on final. I talked with a ground advisory
> tower member who talked with a FAA controller (I know someone, who knows
> someone, who knows someone, who has been there, he thinks:-) about this
> accident. Someone landed short on 9R, the Navion flared short and slow on
> 9R, but the problem was related to the Extras. They were coming in as a
> flight of two and landing as a flight on two. The one on the right of the
> Navion was the lead aircraft and the one that hit the Navion was in trial on
> leads left (left of Navion)watching nothing but his wingman. Way down the
> runway, the tower has a hard time seeing when you get low. I was listening
> to the radio and no one ever saw the problem as all three airplanes were
> down real low and trying to fly down the runway. The lead Extra decided
> very, very, very late to go around and added power and broke right, the
> pilot in trail saw this wingman (shouldn't have been a flight of two anyway)
> add power and break right so he did the same. The only problem was the
> Navion was between the two aircraft. Can you imagine the sound of that
> three bladed IO560 cutting your tail off.........The FAA stated the initial
> contact was just in front of the vertical stab of the Navion with the
> elevator of the Navion hitting the Extra on the right wing root.
>
> You can see the pics here that show just how far the Navion rolled from the
> point of impact. I was afraid the passenger was going to jump out and get
> mauled the twisted mass of cut sheet metal being drug down the runway by the
> Navion (the tail was still attached by the cables only). Luckily he jumped
> when the airplane was nearly stopped. Thankfully no one was hurt.
>
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/navion.jpg
>
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/extra.jpg
>
> Read the NOTAMs and LAND LONG.
>
> I'll post a bunch of SNF pics on my website after April 15.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> 7 emp. waiting on wings.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rocket List"
| Subject: | Camping out at Osh. |
Tom (Gummibear) just informed yours truly that we will be camping out at
Osh. this year as the guys that were to rent out sleeping space in a house
are not going to Osh. for the first time in years. He says he'll only need
a coupla pair of undershorts, 2 days front, 2 days back, 2 days inside out
front and 2 days inside out back. Sounds like a lonnnng week. (The second
pair is for the trip home.)
This will be our first trip so I could use some info.
1. Should we camp with the campers or with the airplane ?
2. Can we ship "stuff" to Osh. in a box (tent, stove, chairs etc.) as
there's not a lot of room in the Rocket ?
3. Anybody got any space for two ole farts.
4. Is there a "rent a wreck" auto rental place close ?
5. Any suggections other than "bring lots of money" ?
KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Rain |
I imagine with the combination of a normal canopy cover plus most of the
rain runnung down the sides not back anyway, its probably not a big deal.
But if I had a -4 or tip-up -6 and had to keep it outside, I'd probably
consider having a custom canopy cover made that extended all the way up and
over the front of the cowl, to make sure no water runs underneath.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics] |
Steven Eberhart was gracious enough to make space available on his server
for a few pics that I got of the accident.
These are for enlightenment only. The Extra could have been an RV8. Be
careful out there.
There are five (large) photos:
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo1.jpg Navion ... tail cut
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo2.jpg Extra ... tipped
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo3.jpg FAA ... to the scene
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo4.jpg Extra ... reset
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo5.jpg Navion ... cleared
He will leave up for a few days.
Again, it is most fortunate that neither of the guys got hurt.
James
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 High Performance Takeoff at Sun-N-Fun |
Did anyone else hear the tower at Sun-N-Fun request that an RV8 do a "high
performance takeoff" on Monday afternoon?
Did anyone else see it??
IMPRESSIVE!!!! Van probably could not have purchased a better advertisement.
The pilot and the RV8 did well by us all. ;-)
I could just see him (or her) smiling from ear to ear as it screamed to sky.
Said pilot ... are you on the list??? If so, have you stopped grinning??
James
Very impressed and made a point to point this out to the Bonanza pilot I was
riding with. ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "blackerby" <blackerby(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | ACS Engine Monitor at Sun-n-Fun? |
What about the Advanced Control Systems engine monitor
(http://www.advanced-control-systems.com)? It's supposed to be on display at
Pacific Coast Avionics. I haven't heard anyone mention it. How's it look?
B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camping out at Osh. |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Tom, If you show your plane at OSH you can't camp with it. If you don't
you can camp with it.
Me? I wish you wouldn't so I can see it, in all its glory.
Course if you camp with it, you could rig a line and air out your shorts.
Life is a bunch of hard demons huh?
Cecil
> My first idea is to camp by the plane. This is my first trip to OSH
> so any
> ideas will be welcome.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> HR-II, flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics] |
In case some of you have a slooooooooow link like I do at home, I posted
some smaller versions of these images here:
http://vondane.tripod.com/extra-navion/
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James E. Clark
Subject: RV-List: Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics]
Steven Eberhart was gracious enough to make space available on his
server for a few pics that I got of the accident.
These are for enlightenment only. The Extra could have been an RV8. Be
careful out there.
There are five (large) photos:
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo1.jpg Navion ... tail cut
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo2.jpg Extra ... tipped
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo3.jpg FAA ... to the scene
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo4.jpg Extra ... reset
http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo5.jpg Navion ... cleared
He will leave up for a few days.
Again, it is most fortunate that neither of the guys got hurt.
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
Folks,
As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
and so I'm asking for your input.
I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
that environment.
Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
Thanks!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics] |
I didn't have a zoom lens on my digital camera so I was not able to get
pictures like those listed below. In the two I posted the two pilots and
one passenger are still in the airplanes. The pic of the Navion shows it
still rolling and just prior to the passenger jumping out onto the wing. I
needed a beer after watching all the bonehead attempts at comliance. It was
rather embarrassing. A twin Cessna even landed over the wreckage after
being told on final that 9R was closed. Before you ask, this was 10 minutes
after the accident!!
http://rvflying.tripod.com/navion.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/extra.jpg
I guess I need to read my post better:-) I had the second Extra in "trial"
of the first one, instead of "trail". Course the "trial" part of it may be
in the future.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. waiting on wings
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>In case some of you have a slooooooooow link like I do at home, I posted
>some smaller versions of these images here:
>
>http://vondane.tripod.com/extra-navion/
>
>-Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James E. Clark
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics]
>
>
>Steven Eberhart was gracious enough to make space available on his
>server for a few pics that I got of the accident.
>
>These are for enlightenment only. The Extra could have been an RV8. Be
>careful out there.
>
>There are five (large) photos:
>
>
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo1.jpg Navion ... tail cut
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo2.jpg Extra ... tipped
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo3.jpg FAA ... to the scene
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo4.jpg Extra ... reset
>http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo5.jpg Navion ... cleared
>
>
>He will leave up for a few days.
>
>Again, it is most fortunate that neither of the guys got hurt.
>
>James
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
Mike... I have two pair of 20X's and love them... I have not had any
trouble with them, but then I have not used them much... Another friend
of mine also has a two pair, and he has had to send them in for repair
twice now because of broken plastic parts... He said he loves them, but
you have to be careful with them or they will break...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Thompson
Subject: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
Folks,
As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
and so I'm asking for your input.
I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in that
environment.
Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
Thanks!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
Mike,
I bought 2 pair of the reconditioned 20XLs from Lightspeed (saved about
$100.00 a pair). Haven't used them yet, but I will shortly. However, I
flew to OSH two times with a friend who has four sets in his 182 and they
are GREAT. I can assume the 25XLs have more noise reduction, but I think
your best bang for the buck is the 20XLs. Also, check out Lightspeed's
website, then call them to see if they have any reconditioned ones for sale.
You won't be able to tell the difference between those and new.
I agree that they might be more breakable than DC's, but with a little care
they should last a long time. They are also way more comfortable than DC's.
Jim Bower
RV-6A
St. Louis
Done with wings!
>From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:04:24 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Folks,
>
>As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
>Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
>Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
>Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
>http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
>and so I'm asking for your input.
>
>I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
>6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
>that environment.
>
>Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Firewall Forward
>
>
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
Just a response regarding the Lightspeed ANRs.
I originally had 20XLs in my Citabria and they were excellent. When I
bought my RV-4 however, they did not perform as well. I believe the reason
was that in the RV-4, you sit very close to the canopy and there is a much
higher frequency wind noise in the RV-4. This may not be as true for a -6.
I sold the Lightspeeds and bought a pair of top of the line David Clark
passive units. They were very superior to the Lightspeeds at least for the
RV-4. The Lightspeeds seem to be more effective in aircraft with lower
frequency noise such as a Citabria. The gentlemen I sold them to uses them
in a Cub and they are great.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
I have a pair of 25XL's and a pair of 20XL's in my RV-4 and I have used a
pair of Bose in it.
Both Lightspeed headsets work great in the RV-4 and they both sound very good
with MP3 music. The 25XL's are a little bit quieter. I purchased the 20XL's
for the rear seat because Lightspeed told me that they were less sensitive to
the ear seals sealing and 95% of my flying is with one of my 3 kids in the
back seat.
If they get switched I can tell that I do not have the 25XL's on climb out.
While I really like my Lightspeeds when I tried the Bose they were better and
more comfortable. If money was not a factor I would have the Bose.
Rob Hickman
RV-4 (IO-360 CS)
N401RH (155+ Hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
We recently reviewed a half dozen headsets for an article in our club
newsletter. The Lightspeed 20XL was one of them, but curiously enough
it didn't win best of breed. The best one came out to be the Lightspeed
QFR, which is the "cheapest" Lightspeed. The attenuation was just as
good as the 20XL, if not better, and the cost was a heck of a lot lower.
They were a hair less comfortable on some people (but I liked them
more), and packed smaller when not in use. The one downside: The
looks. They *look* like cheap headsets.
In the end, we decided that the best bang for the buck was the QFR. YMMV.
Anyway, the review is at:
http://www.b4.ca/raa_85/story/ANRHeadsets/index.htm
Feel free to forward around to anyone who wants to see it.
-Rob Prior
RV-7 Empennage
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
> Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
> Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
> Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
> http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
> and so I'm asking for your input.
>
> I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
> 6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
> that environment.
>
> Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
I have the 20XL and really like them. Use them in a C-172 , but haven't in
an RV yet. A friend uses the 15XL's in his RV6 with no problem.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok rv6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
>
> Folks,
>
> As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
> Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
> Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
> Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
> http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
> and so I'm asking for your input.
>
> I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
> 6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
> that environment.
>
> Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plenum questions |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Jewell
To: zilik(at)bewellnet.com
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 6:42 PM
Subject: Plenum questions
Hello Listers,
I am building an RV6a. After about five years I recently put a check
mark next to the final paragraph of the building the fuselage section.
I am looking at the finishing stage with the O-360-A1A engine mounted
and much of the firewall forward completed. The C/S prop spinner baffles
and cowls etc. have been fitted. I am looking now at the plenum idea and
thought I would do some asking around regarding the pros and cons of
plenums.
Would any of you that have gone ahead with the the homemade plenum
idea and have some recorded flying time be willing to offer some
insights and answers.
How did you deal with the baffle expansion slip joints between the
cylinders? Have you encountered any tendency toward cracking in that
area or anywhere else? If so what and or how would you change the system
you designed?
Would you change any other things such as screws verus piano hinge
attachment et. al.?
Do you feel that there are efficiency gains, speed, gallons per hour.
cooling?
If you had it to do again Would you?
Any observations that you might have would be very useful.
Thanks in advance.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | re metal horizontal vertical fairing |
Hello,
A year or so ago I saw a reference to a site that showed some very nice
all metal fairings for the horizontal vertical intersection fairing.
Can any of you out there point me there?
Might there be a pattern set or some such available, suitable to use as
a starting point?
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Does anybody have a good pictorial of the installation of the Gretz heated
Pitot/static tube on their web site?
thanks,
scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
--- Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
> Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
> Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
> Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
> http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
> and so I'm asking for your input.
>
> I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
> 6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
> that environment.
>
> Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
Mike:
I read the other posts to the list and the article you have a link to.
I purchased two (2) pair of 25XL January 2001. I love them. Fidelity
is the best I have heard on my Pioneer Stereo while flying my RV-6. I
use to have two (2) David-Clark H10-40 of which were 14 years old.
I fly a lot. About 300 hours since last January and always use the
25XLs. At my Cable Airport, "Mother Goose" also has two pair of 25XLs.
Both have had the stirrups break and were replaced by Lightspeed No
Charge. Also in SoCAL, Paul Rosales has two pair of 20XLs. One of
them also had the stirrups break. He mailed it in on a Monday and had
it back on Friday. On Sunday, I had the headband break on my
passagner's headset. Inspection of both headsets reviled cracks on
both headbands and also the stirrups where "Mother Goose's" broke. I
emailed Lightspeed Sunday night and had a message back on Monday. The
message said to call and that they would take care of it. I phone
today. New headbands and stirrups would be mailed for both headsets.
The stirrups have been redesigned.
Lightspeed Aviation is a new company and their headsets are a new
design. I think I did the right thing by purchasing these headsets. I
expect any new company to have a few problems with a new design when it
first comes out. The way they are handling the issue is like they want
to be in business for a long time. They are standing behind their
product and making improvements.
If money is no object, by the Bose. I still think that the Lightspeed
is the best bang for the buck.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,014.0+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun Experience |
I have been attending Sun-N-fun since 1982 and every year I learn
something new. I've flown my J3 in
twice and it has been quite an experience itself just flying the
arrival. There should be a difference approach
for us slow planes. I've been flying at max cruise (78mph) and look
behind me and all I could see is greasy
bellies. It is not a pretty sight! The last time, I was asked to land
long and touched down just before the
runway 5-23 intersection. It seems some pilots just haven't shaken the
winter cob webs out yet and just
aren't thinking. It's funny, I to saw most of the incidences from about
the same locations as the pictures
show but I had no clue any of the RV-List folks were near by. We need a
big red flag tied to our belts.
I would like to thank all of the RV pilots that I bugged this
weekend. Brian, Eric, Kyle, Mike, Paul, the
Indianapolis gang and others that I just didn't get their names. As a 4
builder, I just can't seem to get enough
listening to the ideas and suggestions.
Thanks to all, wish I could go to Oshkosh.
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4, Ailerons
770-929-8935
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Scot, Mike Nellis has some great pictures of his project.
His pictures are the best that I have come across.
http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm#Pitot
If anyone has more/different, please post.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas finishing wings (6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV taildragger CFI Checkride |
I got a quote back today from Nationair for insurance for my RV-6 which will
be inspected by the FAA next week.
The quote had a really good rate considering I'm a low time pilot and just
got my tailwheel endorsement, but they want me to have a CFI checkride in a
RV taildragger before they will cover me.
What I am looking for is someone who is a CFI with an RV taildragger who can
give me this checkride. I prefer someone in the Colorado, Wyoming, South
Dakota or Nebraska area.
If you know of someone please e-mail me.
Jdaniel343(at)aol.com
Thanks
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camping out at Osh. |
There's NO WAY this should be left out of the archive! Re-posting to get it
in there.
--- begin included message ---
Camping at OSH
There is NOTHING better than camping at OSH, if you are of the camping
type. Where else can you wake to the smell of bacon, coffee and the
sound of two P-51 Mustangs taking off in formation? Not to mention the
yodeler. Nothing like it. And your favorite airplane is right there. I
have camped OSH for 15 years and will probably always do so unless
something better comes up.
Points: if you want to park your airplane on the flight line for the
masses to see your beauty, you will not be camping with the airplane as
camping is not allowed there. You can park in the North 40 with the Spam
Cans and camp and still get a lot of visitors. Or you can camp with your
airplane in the Vintage camping area (where any show plane can park and
camp, including Experimentals). You can also park on the flight line and
camp somewhere else, like in "the trees", which is in the Vintage
camping area, by the Theater in the Woods. If you park in Vintage, you
will be near Air Show Center and so will your airplane.
If you want thousands to see your airplane, park in the RV parking area.
If you want hundreds to see your airplane, park where you can camp with
it. You will be better able to be around your airplane, obviously, if
you camp with it, it just won't be as well seen as in the RV area.
Plus/minus: a lot of aviation and non-aviation types will be leaning on,
sitting on, banging against, poking at your pride and joy, almost no
mater where you park it. Less so off the flight line. There is a POP
program, which is Protect Our Planes which we kindly ask people not to
take pictures with their daughters sitting on the wing like that (I
could tell you stories).
If you camp: take a GOOD tent, one that can stand up to high winds (Say,
isn't that Kevin's tent rolling by over there?), and rain. It will rain.
Take a PFD, Personal Flotation Device, also known as an air mattress.
One, it will be more comfortable on the hard ground. Two, you put all
your things on it so they will not be floating in the water that will
get in your tent anyway.
Sending things: you can UPS boxes to EAA Headquarters in care of your
name. Do NOT pack fuel, fuel canisters, etc. Buy that when you get there
(WalMart close by). Send your stove; take the EMPTY fuel reservoir with
you. You can also ask around and find folks you know with their Cessna
210 etc. that have room for your little pile of stuff. Take your tent
and sleeping bag in your airplane so you have it if they are late or
don't show up. Or if you need to spend the night in some unplanned
place.
Pack: sun tan lotion, mosquito repellant, rain coat and pants, water
proof (Gortex) tennis shoes are handy, sandals. It can be really cold,
really hot or both. Pack for any weather, but mostly for really warm. I
always have a turtleneck and use it about every other year. Mostly
shorts, one pair of Levi's or long pants. Hat, sunglasses. Water jug.
The water at OSH tastes like iron and fertilizer but you can get bottled
water locally. Mesh bag to carry your shower stuff to the shower (REI
has them). That way you are less likely to leave your shampoo or soap in
the shower.
Camping at OSH is a grand experience. You will meet people that will be
life-long friends that you will see only at OSH. The same people seem to
gravitate to the same camping area year after year. That early morning
walk amongst the planes when the sun isn't quite up yet and hardly
anyone else is up: can't beat it.
If you don't like to camp anyway, don't bother as you may not like it.
If you can rough it a little, it will be a grand adventure.
Stop by the Vintage area and say hello, even if you don't live there.
I'll be charging around keeping the Vintage area in order. Suzie Q will
be parked near the Hanger Caf. Off the flight line.
Michael
I am already gearing up for The Big Show. Can't wait...............
D* n*t arch*ve
--- end included message ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the compliment re: the heated pitot tube installation but if I
were going to do it again I'd probably follow Leo Benetti's example for the
ultimate in clean installations.
http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/Pitot/Pitot.html
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gretz heated pitot tube installation
>
> Scot, Mike Nellis has some great pictures of his project.
> His pictures are the best that I have come across.
> http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm#Pitot
> If anyone has more/different, please post.
> Thanks, Bob in Arkansas finishing wings (6)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark (eaa242)" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Engine Monitor at Sun-n-Fun? |
Quoting blackerby :
>
> What about the Advanced Control Systems engine monitor
> (http://www.advanced-control-systems.com)? It's supposed to be on display
> at
> Pacific Coast Avionics. I haven't heard anyone mention it. How's it look?
>
I saw the unit.
It looked good to me bu there was a disappointment that I releayed to the
builder. ... Nobody at the booth really knew anthing about it and there was
no "cheat sheet".
You see, it only made it there something like THURSDAY before SnF opened and
*barely* did then it seems. The builder worked very hard to get it there and
sent me a message saying that he should be at OSH *with* the system in an RV!!!
I think he may have a winner here but it will be a few months it seems before
all is smooth.
Put differently .. if you don't have to install tommorrow, I think it may
indeed be worth the wait.
James
> B.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark (eaa242)" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics] |
Quoting Bill VonDane :
>
> In case some of you have a slooooooooow link like I do at home, I posted
> some smaller versions of these images here:
>
> http://vondane.tripod.com/extra-navion/
>
> -Bill
>
Thanks Bill.
James
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Non RV, pics of Navion/Extra tangle. [More pics]
>
>
>
> Steven Eberhart was gracious enough to make space available on his
> server for a few pics that I got of the accident.
>
> These are for enlightenment only. The Extra could have been an RV8. Be
> careful out there.
>
> There are five (large) photos:
>
>
> http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo1.jpg Navion ... tail cut
> http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo2.jpg Extra ... tipped
> http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo3.jpg FAA ... to the scene
> http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo4.jpg Extra ... reset
> http://63.69.213.180/newtech/photos/photo5.jpg Navion ... cleared
>
>
> He will leave up for a few days.
>
> Again, it is most fortunate that neither of the guys got hurt.
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | any RV's in New york area? |
Hello,
I happen to be traveling trough JFK / New York on the 13th and 14th of
April and I was wondering if there are any RV's in the area under
construction or flying that I can have a look at.
I would appreiciate it wery much as there are no flying RV=B4s in
Iceland (where I live) so I have actually never seen a completed
aircraft, and there are currently only two projects exluding ours beeing
worked on in Iceland.
thanks in advance for any help.
Thor Hardarson
th100(at)simnet.is
RV9 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe-Home" <moejoe(at)comcast.net> |
Hi guys. I recently sold my RV8 kit, and I have some tools left over. Take a
look at http://www.tabshred.com/moe/avery.htm to see a list with prices.
Thanks,
Moe Colontonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:36:17 AM
Hey Gary,
Doesn't the head band on the 25x hit your canopy? Thats my big concern with
them, it looks like it stands up about 1.5" above ones noggin and is hard
plastic. I'm glad to see the LS Cross Countrys (QFR) got good reviews. They
have a flat head band that I think will be easier on my canopy (in the
event I ever do actually fly my RV) and the price is pretty standard at
$275.00 a pop. The numbers on the brochure sure look good for that money.
Chewing on this one also.
Eric
"Gary A. Sobek" (at)matronics.com on 04/10/2002 08:47:32
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
--- Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
> Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
> Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
> Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
> http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
> and so I'm asking for your input.
>
> I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
> 6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
> that environment.
>
> Our archives have some good info... just casting about for more.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
Mike:
I read the other posts to the list and the article you have a link to.
I purchased two (2) pair of 25XL January 2001. I love them. Fidelity
is the best I have heard on my Pioneer Stereo while flying my RV-6. I
use to have two (2) David-Clark H10-40 of which were 14 years old.
I fly a lot. About 300 hours since last January and always use the
25XLs. At my Cable Airport, "Mother Goose" also has two pair of 25XLs.
Both have had the stirrups break and were replaced by Lightspeed No
Charge. Also in SoCAL, Paul Rosales has two pair of 20XLs. One of
them also had the stirrups break. He mailed it in on a Monday and had
it back on Friday. On Sunday, I had the headband break on my
passagner's headset. Inspection of both headsets reviled cracks on
both headbands and also the stirrups where "Mother Goose's" broke. I
emailed Lightspeed Sunday night and had a message back on Monday. The
message said to call and that they would take care of it. I phone
today. New headbands and stirrups would be mailed for both headsets.
The stirrups have been redesigned.
Lightspeed Aviation is a new company and their headsets are a new
design. I think I did the right thing by purchasing these headsets. I
expect any new company to have a few problems with a new design when it
first comes out. The way they are handling the issue is like they want
to be in business for a long time. They are standing behind their
product and making improvements.
If money is no object, by the Bose. I still think that the Lightspeed
is the best bang for the buck.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,014.0+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Bendix/King KMD150 |
Jeff,
We got a recondition KMD150 unit from JA Air ( I think that is the name of
the place in Florida) for $2300. It is a really neat unit with a great
display. The box is quite large so take that in to consideration when
planning your panel. We are not flying yet so I don't can't give you feed
back about it in the air, but I have flown a C172 with the KDM550 and it was
great to fly with.
Patty Gillies
RV-6 Finishing SC
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
I don't know about the 25XLs, but I have their QFR Cross Country ANR
headsets, and I think they're fabulous. However, I don't have a lot of
experience with the competition.
I bought based on price and a review in AvWeb. I wear them in a very
loud Mooney, and the are amazing. I've tried to arrange a side-by-side
test with some of the competition, but it hasn't worked out.
If someone in the Minneapolis area wants to arrange a comparison, get
in touch.
-Joe
> From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
>
>
> Folks,
>
> As my aircraft nears completion, I intend to replace my Flightcom
> Blackhawks with a pair of ANR headsets.
>
> Bang for the buck has me looking at the LightSpeed 25XL units. Some
> Google searching today finds some negative reviews, however:
> http://www.fergworld.com/pireps/pirep_lightspeed.php
> and so I'm asking for your input.
>
> I admit the headsets look a little bulky for the RV-6 cockpit on a
> 6-footer's head, but I've not had an opportunity to try them out in
> that environment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re metal horizontal vertical fairing |
There is an article in the RVator, Second Issue, 1999, page 11, by Greg
Halverson.
In my first attempt to make one, I noticed the aft inboard edge of the
horizontal stabilizer is about 1 inch short of letting the fairing roll into
a vertical position to align with the vertical stabilizer above and the
fuselage below. In other words, I think I need a little flat fairing on the
aft inboard edge of the horizontal stabilizer.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> A year or so ago I saw a reference to a site that showed some very nice
> all metal fairings for the horizontal vertical intersection fairing.
>
> Can any of you out there point me there?
> Might there be a pattern set or some such available, suitable to use as
> a starting point?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re metal horizontal vertical fairing |
Jim,
I don't know about a web site but there is an article in "21 years of
RV-ator on page 129.
Neil in Bisbee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: re metal horizontal vertical fairing
>
> Hello,
>
> A year or so ago I saw a reference to a site that showed some very nice
> all metal fairings for the horizontal vertical intersection fairing.
>
> Can any of you out there point me there?
> Might there be a pattern set or some such available, suitable to use as
> a starting point?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks to all who replied on this thread with all the research links.
It's been very illustrative.
As a result I'm cooling my jets on the 25XL headsets. Once I get this
bird in the air I plan to fly it A LOT - and I don't want my headsets
in the mail going to repair (or coming back) when I want to go to the
coast.
I wish a Lightspeed rep was on the list. I'd like to ask him "Why do
your headsets break so much?"
More research is necessary. Have to find a local user of the QFR
units...
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/11/2002 10:38:16 AM Central Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
> It's been very illustrative.
>
> As a result I'm cooling my jets on the 25XL headsets. Once I get this
> bird in the air I plan to fly it A LOT - and I don't want my headsets
> in the mail going to repair (or coming back) when I want to go to the
> coast.
>
> I wish a Lightspeed rep was on the list. I'd like to ask him "Why do
> your headsets break so much?"
>
> More research is necessary. Have to find a local user of the QFR
> units...
>
> - Mike
I have lightspeed 20xl and i think there better for music then the 25s also
i havent broke mine nor has the flight school suffered a broken pair. I
think its more a case of people who break them responded on the list.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fillers FW from plastic airplane list. |
Here's you some testing information about two homemade fillers:
- Aeropoxy + micro
- Alphapoxy + micro
- Aeropoxy Light PTM&W
- SuperFil Polyfiber
-------------
DENSITY:
- Alphapoxy + micro - 3.1 lb/gal*
- Aeropoxy + micro - 3.8 lb/gal*
- Aeropoxy Light - 3.8 lb/gal*
- SuperFil (Polyfiber) - 5.0 lb/gal*
(* +/- 2%; measured in a University Lab).
Both homemade fillers spread easily with an edition of (tiny bit) alcohol.
Aeropoxy Light
is 3.8 lb/gal (i.e., same density as homemade Aeropoxy
filler) and is very easy to spread, almost like cake frosting.
Alphapoxy
has the ability to take more micro than the Aeropoxy (3.1 lb/gal final vs
3.8 lb/gal) so the Alphapoxy filler is around 20% lighter (less dense) than
the Aeropoxy filler (if mixed nice and dry). Alphapoxy mix was lighter, and
much easier to spread than the Aeropoxy mix. With a little alcohol Alphapoxy
spreads exactly like cake icing.
AlphaPoxy Note:
A mixture of 2oz AlphaPoxy, and 10oz (by volume) of micro will easily cover
an area 24x36in. Use a squeegee to smooth it out, and remove excess.
Clean the squeegee well after each stroke. When using the squeegee, the more
vertical the squeegee, the better the result.
DO NOT MISTAKE "Alphapoxy" for Aeropoxy and use it on a structural lay-up!
-------------
SANDABILITY:
Homemade fillers sand easily (if you make it nice and dry) after about a day
of curing.
Be careful to mix it about the same dryness each time you're working on a
certain area.
If you mix one batch too creamy that spot will be harder to sand than the
other
filled areas, and it is easier to get a high spot as you sand.
Aeropoxy Light can be shaped with a Stanley Surform planer after 2-3 hours
and
then sands easily after an overnight cure.
SuperFil also sands easily after an overnight cure.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. wings ordered
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
[snip]
> I have lightspeed 20xl and i think there better for music then the
25s also
> i havent broke mine nor has the flight school suffered a broken pair. I
> think its more a case of people who break them responded on the list.
I have a pair of 20XL's and yes they have been back to the factory to have
a cracked headband replaced. THe repair was handled quickly and at no
cost. In their defense, it was 20 below zero and the headsets had been in
my flight bag in the airplane so they were cold soaked at -20. When I put
them on the headband cracked - didn't break but just cracked. Used the
headsets on the flight after I spent two hours getting the plane started.
I still love the headsets and will buy a second pair when my RV-7A is
finished.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
N14SE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
I guess I just can't let this thread die without mentioning a unique
solution that not many folks are aware of. If you want the best passive
noise reduction available, AND true high-fidelity frequency response (for
better voice reproduction, but especially for music) you might want to
consider the Meyers Aviation conversion of David Clarks. I've done a review
of them on my web site...
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#PRODUCT:%20%20Meyer%20Aviation%20Heads
ets
They are truly the best headsets I've ever used, and I've tried all the
Lightspeeds and Bose models. Everyone I take for rides in my airplane goes
"oh, wow, this really sounds GOOD". And of course they are quiet too.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
RV-8, 154.6 hrs., back cover of 2002 Van's calendar
> Thanks to all who replied on this thread with all the research links.
> It's been very illustrative.
>
> As a result I'm cooling my jets on the 25XL headsets. Once I get this
> bird in the air I plan to fly it A LOT - and I don't want my headsets
> in the mail going to repair (or coming back) when I want to go to the
> coast.
>
> I wish a Lightspeed rep was on the list. I'd like to ask him "Why do
> your headsets break so much?"
>
> More research is necessary. Have to find a local user of the QFR
> units...
>
> - Mike
>
>
> ====
> Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
> Austin, TX, USA
> RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
> EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
> PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for RMD Lighting |
I put RMD Lighting on the wingtips of my RV6a. While
painting the inside on the cockpit, I got overmist on
the now not so clear plastic covers.
I figure there is no way to clean them. So would like
to order some new ones but can't find their phone
number in all my receipts.
Does anybody have RMD Lighting's phone number in
Hillsboro, OR.
Dan DeNeal
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Thanks to both of your guys. this is great stuff.
scot
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Thanks for the compliment re: the heated pitot tube installation but if I
>were going to do it again I'd probably follow Leo Benetti's example for the
>ultimate in clean installations.
>http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/Pitot/Pitot.html
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Gretz heated pitot tube installation
>
>
> >
> > Scot, Mike Nellis has some great pictures of his project.
> > His pictures are the best that I have come across.
> > http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm#Pitot
> > If anyone has more/different, please post.
> > Thanks, Bob in Arkansas finishing wings (6)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
I have been very pleased with my Peltor 7104 Straosphere ANR headsets. They're
passive attenuation is high (very desirable) and the ANR works great. Sturdy
construction and very comfortable.
Gary
Quoting Mike Thompson :
>
> Thanks to all who replied on this thread with all the research links.
> It's been very illustrative.
>
> As a result I'm cooling my jets on the 25XL headsets. Once I get this
> bird in the air I plan to fly it A LOT - and I don't want my headsets
> in the mail going to repair (or coming back) when I want to go to the
> coast.
>
> I wish a Lightspeed rep was on the list. I'd like to ask him "Why do
> your headsets break so much?"
>
> More research is necessary. Have to find a local user of the QFR
> units...
>
> - Mike
>
>
> ====
> Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
> Austin, TX, USA
> RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
> EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
> PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
>
>
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Headset Discussion - was Lightspeed 25XL thread |
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
> I'm worth it! The new Bose X model is titanium, weighs an incredible 12
> oz.
> and is the best protection for your ears on the planet.
I think this is a false statement. Bose offers very little in passive
attenuation. While the low frequencies are attenuated very well by the ANR
circut the high frequencies are killing your hearing. I learned this from a
hearing specialist.
When our hearing fails, it's the highs that go, so protect your ears and buy the
higest passive attenuation headsets you can afford. The ANR feature helps reduce
fatigue on long flights buy attenuating the low frequencies generally lower than
1000 hz.Add the High passive attenuation and you have the best of both worlds.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Okay, I'm going over my tanks, making sure I'm ready. I don't
think I am.
First, an easy question:
Do you pro-seal the plumbing fittings for vent and fuel pickup?
Now, here I get to display my ignorance again... One view of one of
the drawings shows light stiffeners riveted lengthwise to the skin between
the ribs -- two on top, one on bottom. My prepunched skins didn't
have holes for these. But I'm assuming I still need these, right?
BTW: I emailed Gus @ Vans. He wasn't overly impressed with the
pro-seal now, rivet later method of construction. He didn't hate the
idea, he just basically said he would personally stick with what has
worked for a couple thousand RVs.
Another question: should I bribe one of the local builders into helping
when I do the tanks, or is it okay as a 1-man job? If a bribe, how
BIG a bribe? :-)
Cleaning: can I use naptha (Coleman fuel) for cleaning clecos and
such? I have plenty. Otherwise, what do people recommend and
where do you get it?
Thanks again.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mitchf(at)netscape.com (Mitchell Faatz) |
| Subject: | Anybody using Sennheiser HMEC 300? |
I haven't seen anybody praise the newer Sennheiser HMEC 300's which are
full stereo, ANR, and very lightweight. Some RV owners around my neck
of the woods love them, just wondering if anybody else has used them and
how they compare to Lightspeeds, Bose, etc.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit San Mateo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RMD Lighting |
Bob DeBorde 503-628-6056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Hi Joe,
See answers below your questions.
>>Do you pro-seal the plumbing fittings for vent and fuel pickup?<<
Yes, proseal the parts as you put them together and then get a good seal on
the inside of the tank around them.
>>Now, here I get to display my ignorance again... One view of one of
the drawings shows light stiffeners riveted lengthwise to the skin between
the ribs -- two on top, one on bottom. My prepunched skins didn't
have holes for these. But I'm assuming I still need these, right?<<
First there is no ignorance. Just look at your plans carefull. Mine only
has stiffeners on the bottom but it was a -6. Not sure what you are
building.
>>BTW: I emailed Gus @ Vans. He wasn't overly impressed with the
pro-seal now, rivet later method of construction. He didn't hate the
idea, he just basically said he would personally stick with what has
worked for a couple thousand RVs.<<
I did mine rivet as I prosealed. It wasn't that bad just a cleanup project
afterwards. I think others have had good luck with the rivet later method
but not sure if any have been fueled and time tested yet.
>>Another question: should I bribe one of the local builders into helping
when I do the tanks, or is it okay as a 1-man job? If a bribe, how
BIG a bribe? :-)<<
I had a builder friend come over and do a proseal session with me and then I
felt fine to do the rest. I think it is best to do smaller sessions than a
complete tank in one setting. I did the stiffeners, fuel filler, fuel drain
and the fittings and parts on the inboard rib in a single setting and then
about a week later did all the ribs except the inboard rib. After it sat I
installed the vent lines, etc. and put the end rib in. And of course the
baffle last. It did seem to contain the proseal more that way.
>>Cleaning: can I use naptha (Coleman fuel) for cleaning clecos and
such? I have plenty. Otherwise, what do people recommend and
where do you get it?<<
I kept a small stainless bowl full of lacquer thinner on the bench and just
put the clecos in it as I removed them. After I was done I just cleaned
them all up with the same. Seemed to work fine. I did use MEK on the sheet
metal for cleaning but I understand naptha is the same. Should work fine.
Tim
RV-6 Slider
N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
A lot in the archives about tanks, read them.
Specific answers, proseal anything that can leak. Van says one can of
proseal is more than enough, I used 2 1/5 cans (not all on the tanks), and
no leaks. Too much proseal is better than leaky tanks.
IMHO skin stiffeners are needed, especially if you will do any high G
maneuvers. Fuel weight must be supported somewhere. Stiffeners are easy to
make and drill, also use proseal.
I riveted while proseal was wet, not a problem if you remember to constantly
clean up, get about 2000 2"x4" paper towels (cut them yourself) and use them
often, keep things clean, if you get proseal somewhere it is not suppose to
be, clean it, especially on you or your clothes, otherwise, you will find
proseal in the refridgerator, stove, car etc.
Bribe the local builder to help, if he won't go slow, it can be done very
easily by one person. I actually enjoyed it, as compared to some other
things on the plane (wingtip platenuts).
Naptha will clean up well, so does lacquer thinnner. Use what ever is
cheaper, and buy in large quanities, at least a gallon.
Bob
>
> Okay, I'm going over my tanks, making sure I'm ready. I don't
> think I am.
>
> First, an easy question:
>
> Do you pro-seal the plumbing fittings for vent and fuel pickup?
>
> Now, here I get to display my ignorance again... One view of one of
> the drawings shows light stiffeners riveted lengthwise to the skin between
> the ribs -- two on top, one on bottom. My prepunched skins didn't
> have holes for these. But I'm assuming I still need these, right?
>
> BTW: I emailed Gus @ Vans. He wasn't overly impressed with the
> pro-seal now, rivet later method of construction. He didn't hate the
> idea, he just basically said he would personally stick with what has
> worked for a couple thousand RVs.
>
> Another question: should I bribe one of the local builders into helping
> when I do the tanks, or is it okay as a 1-man job? If a bribe, how
> BIG a bribe? :-)
>
> Cleaning: can I use naptha (Coleman fuel) for cleaning clecos and
> such? I have plenty. Otherwise, what do people recommend and
> where do you get it?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> -Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV taildragger CFI Checkride |
They told me the same thing, but mine expired. It has to be within 90 days
of first flight. The 90 day rule is a part of the fine print.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV taildragger CFI Checkride
>
> I got a quote back today from Nationair for insurance for my RV-6 which
will
> be inspected by the FAA next week.
> The quote had a really good rate considering I'm a low time pilot and just
> got my tailwheel endorsement, but they want me to have a CFI checkride in
a
> RV taildragger before they will cover me.
> What I am looking for is someone who is a CFI with an RV taildragger who
can
> give me this checkride. I prefer someone in the Colorado, Wyoming, South
> Dakota or Nebraska area.
> If you know of someone please e-mail me.
> Jdaniel343(at)aol.com
> Thanks
> John Danielson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | all metal empennage fairing |
Hello,
In an email I send earlier I mentioned a web site that showed an all
metal empennage fairing. Look here to a site;
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/barn.htm
Nice work!! The difference between the terms Craftsman and Artisan seems
evident here to me.
What I had hoped to find was some pictures on the web of someone's
efforts at using conventional building aluminum and rivet building
practices to assemble some number of pieces into an useful all aluminum
fairing.
The only negative side to using this type of all metal fairing would be
that it precludes the use of ELT etc.antennas in this area.
In the long run, I will most likely use the part Van supplied but would
like to see picture/s just the same.
It might just be time for me to upgrade my 18 years of the RV-ator as
suggested by one poster, Thanks.
Good flights and greased landings,
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
Quoting Joe Larson :
>
> Okay, I'm going over my tanks, making sure I'm ready. I don't
> think I am.
>
> First, an easy question:
>
> Do you pro-seal the plumbing fittings for vent and fuel pickup?
The bulkhead fittings need to be sealed where they pass through the end rib and
access plate. I also put a dab of proseal on the b-nut after it was torgued down.
>
> Now, here I get to display my ignorance again... One view of one of
> the drawings shows light stiffeners riveted lengthwise to the skin
> between
> the ribs -- two on top, one on bottom. My prepunched skins didn't
> have holes for these. But I'm assuming I still need these, right?
On my 6A and the 6 i just sealed, the bottom of the tank gets two stiffeners
between ribs and nothing else. Don't know about other models. But yes you do
need them.
>
> BTW: I emailed Gus @ Vans. He wasn't overly impressed with the
> pro-seal now, rivet later method of construction. He didn't hate the
> idea, he just basically said he would personally stick with what has
> worked for a couple thousand RVs.
Never tried that method but lots of folks have with good results. I would
imagine the finished rivet would look better. I like the proseal rivet now
method. That way I don't have to cover the shop heads with proseal after
riviting to keep the rivits from leaking.
>
> Another question: should I bribe one of the local builders into
> helping
> when I do the tanks, or is it okay as a 1-man job? If a bribe, how
> BIG a bribe? :-)
Easy as a one man job. Take your time and don't do too much in one setting. Of
course if you can bribe an experienced prosealer I would guess at least a bottle
of single malt scotch would be in order.
>
> Cleaning: can I use naptha (Coleman fuel) for cleaning clecos and
> such? I have plenty. Otherwise, what do people recommend and
> where do you get it?
Naptha works well for cleaning the parts prior to sealing. MEK will clean up the
uncured stuff. Carbo-Sol cleans up the cured stuff but is really really bad
stuff. Good carburator cleaner also cleans up the cured stuff. As for the clecos
I just toss them on a tray and let the proseal cure and then use them again.
They don't seem to mind the proseal at all. I wear a respirator when using all
the above named chemicals (cept for naptha)
Gary
>
> Thanks again.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Bose Headset Discussion - was Lightspeed 25XL thread |
This may be true, but there are not very many high frequencies in an
airplane. If there were, I'd hear them, as I have better than average
hearing. My Bose headsets are bar none the best damn pair of headsets I
have ever worn, and I have worn just about everything out there, even David
Clark conversions.
It is dead quiet in my ears (well just about, it doesn't completely
eliminate the engine noise) when flying with my Bose, so I don't think there
are any highs that are destroying my hearing. If there are highs, they are
beyond 20Khz, which is beyond human hearing anyway.
Not to mention, comfort wise, you can't beat them. Never thought I would
have spent $1000 on headsets, but it is the best $1000 I have ever spent.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Headset Discussion - was Lightspeed 25XL thread
>
>
> > I'm worth it! The new Bose X model is titanium, weighs an incredible 12
> > oz.
> > and is the best protection for your ears on the planet.
>
> I think this is a false statement. Bose offers very little in passive
> attenuation. While the low frequencies are attenuated very well by the ANR
> circut the high frequencies are killing your hearing. I learned this from
a
> hearing specialist.
>
> When our hearing fails, it's the highs that go, so protect your ears and
buy the
> higest passive attenuation headsets you can afford. The ANR feature helps
reduce
> fatigue on long flights buy attenuating the low frequencies generally
lower than
> 1000 hz.Add the High passive attenuation and you have the best of both
worlds.
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
> > Now, here I get to display my ignorance again... One view of one of
> > the drawings shows light stiffeners riveted lengthwise to the skin
>between
> > the ribs -- two on top, one on bottom. My prepunched skins didn't
> > have holes for these. But I'm assuming I still need these, right?
There are no stiffeners on the top. There are 2 stiffeners on the bottom
between each rib. I think what you may be seeing on the drawing is the fuel
cap flange. The edges look like stiffeners from a side view.
The holes in the bottom of the tank skin are pre-drilled.
Steve
RV-7A
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: any RV's in New york area? |
Dear Thor,
I feel almost guilty that I am not jumping on the opportunity to show
you my plane. I am buliding an RV9a. We are about to the fuselage
completion. We can see ny CITY SKYLINE FROM mONTCLAIR, nj.
wE HAVE A BIG WEEKEND GOING ON THAT WEEKEND.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO GO TO CHURCH WITH US ON THE 14TH (METHODIST CHURCH)
WE ARE HAVING A CLEAN UP WEEKEND (DOING MANUAL LABOR FOR AN HOUR AFTER
CHURCH). AFTER THAT i COULD SHOW YOU THE PLANE THAT I HAVE NOT WORKED ON
FOR 3 MONTHS, BECAUSE WE ARE SELLING A BUSINESS.
LET ME KNOW.
BARRY POTE RV9A
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I happen to be traveling trough JFK / New York on the 13th and 14th of
> April and I was wondering if there are any RV's in the area under
> construction or flying that I can have a look at.
> I would appreiciate it wery much as there are no flying RV=B4s in
> Iceland (where I live) so I have actually never seen a completed
> aircraft, and there are currently only two projects exluding ours beeing
> worked on in Iceland.
>
> thanks in advance for any help.
> Thor Hardarson
> th100(at)simnet.is
> RV9 empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back from Sun-n-fun - avionics - blue mountain, Dynon etc |
I put a down-payment on the EFIS/One while I was at the show.
-Larry
RV-8 fuse
http://BowenAero.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GA-EFIS/
--- dag adamson wrote:
>
> Back for a couple of mements and then on the road
> again.
>
> Dynon wasn't there...
>
> Blue Mountain's Lite version looks good - its
> basically the upper left quadrant that is displayed on
> EFIS/1 - they have also added a heading indicator
> (although you don't see the dial of the DG) for ~650
> (don't quote me on price) - I think that I am going
> to do it. Anybody install one yet?
>
> A couple of smoking RV-s there. Great craftmanship.
> I'll try to get some pics up later .....
>
> -Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV taildragger CFI Checkride |
Robert Lynch 6507 Old Lohman Rd Jefferson City MO
This is the closest RV6 listed for transition training as of about April 1st
with the EAA. The EAA issues the FAA permits. Robert Lynch's e-mail is
rlynch(at)sprintmail.com If you are interested, I can provide his phone
number as well.
You might check with the EAA at 1-888-EAA-info to see if some one closer has
registered as last fall there were only about 12 and now there are 38 with
6 RV6s.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV taildragger CFI Checkride
They told me the same thing, but mine expired. It has to be within 90 days
of first flight. The 90 day rule is a part of the fine print.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV taildragger CFI Checkride
>
> I got a quote back today from Nationair for insurance for my RV-6 which
will
> be inspected by the FAA next week.
> The quote had a really good rate considering I'm a low time pilot and just
> got my tailwheel endorsement, but they want me to have a CFI checkride in
a
> RV taildragger before they will cover me.
> What I am looking for is someone who is a CFI with an RV taildragger who
can
> give me this checkride. I prefer someone in the Colorado, Wyoming, South
> Dakota or Nebraska area.
> If you know of someone please e-mail me.
> Jdaniel343(at)aol.com
> Thanks
> John Danielson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Question |
Hi,
How critical is the shape of the rudder trim tab? I can use one of two
sizes of balsa wood trailing edge material. One is 3/8" x 1 1/2" wedge
shape and the other is 1/4" x 1" wedge shape. Does the aspect ratio matter
for any aerodynamic reason for something that seems rather minor?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
----Original Message Follows----
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps?
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:35:32 -0400 08:36:17 AM
Hey Gary,
Doesn't the head band on the 25x hit your canopy? Thats my big concern with
them, it looks like it stands up about 1.5" above ones noggin and is hard
plastic. I'm glad to see the LS Cross Countrys (QFR) got good reviews. They
have a flat head band that I think will be easier on my canopy (in the
event I ever do actually fly my RV) and the price is pretty standard at
$275.00 a pop. The numbers on the brochure sure look good for that money.
Chewing on this one also.
Eric
Eric:
I am only 5'11" so the headband does not hit the canopy. Got about 1.5 - 2
inches clearance.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,016.0+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
I have the LightSpeed 20XL and they are just great. I tried a friends
Bose X for a few hours in a Mooney, and believe it or not I got a
headache. The Bose primarily depends on ANR and it seemed I could
actually feel the "pressure" of the ANR when I put them on. Strange,
but I did not like the feel of the Bose.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
I've found the headsets with the best passive noise reduction to be the DC
H10-56, designed for helicopters. I have the XL model with active noise
reduction with Oregon Aero ear cups and head band. Better than the
Lightspeeds, made in the USA without the cheap plastic. Will probably
outlast me. Found them equal in noise reduction to Bose, but sound quality
not as good. Not the best for music, but I like to listen to ATC anyway so
don't care.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ maybe 2-3 weeks to go, if it ever stops raining
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | New Pinhole Filler/Primer |
Several issues ago the RVator had an article about a new primer used by Dick
Colliander on his RV-8. Just finished using it on my 8 cowl and it does do
a better job of filling the pinholes and weave and other small
imperfections than the PPG K28 I was using. I sprayed on two heavy
unthinned coats using a 2.0 tip on my Croix HVLP gun. No matter how heavy I
put it on it wouldn't run. It filled almost all the pinholes, weave, and
other little imperfections with the two coats without using any filler, like
superfill. The downside is it took 15 hours of sanding after using one
quart of the primer. It's called Northstar High Solids Polyester Primer
P3542 and I bought it from Gary Williams, 208-440-1473. Cost me $100 for
one gallon. Yes, it is a polyester paint, but Gary assured me it will work
fine on our epoxy parts. So far it hasn't pealed off yet. Using PPG
Concept over it and it sticks fine. Took one quart to do the outside of
both cowl halves.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ almost there
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a good pictorial of the installation of the Gretz heated
> Pitot/static tube on their web site?
>
I don't know that it's very good, but I grabbed some of the images out of my
Kitlog files and stuck them in a web page that shows how I located things. I
have the pitot + static Gretz and mounted it in the bay just outboard of the
one that Van's uses for the factory pitot.
Pix at:
http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/pitotstatic.html
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Castellano" <tcastell(at)bestweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: any RV's in New york area? |
I have a flying RV6 based at Dutchess County Airport (POU). It's about 70
miles north of NYC
close to the Hudson River. I would be happy to show it to you. My phone
number is
(845) 227-8527
Tony Castellano
tcastell(at)bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: any RV's in New york area?
>
> Hello,
>
> I happen to be traveling trough JFK / New York on the 13th and 14th of
> April and I was wondering if there are any RV's in the area under
> construction or flying that I can have a look at.
> I would appreiciate it wery much as there are no flying RV=B4s in
> Iceland (where I live) so I have actually never seen a completed
> aircraft, and there are currently only two projects exluding ours beeing
> worked on in Iceland.
>
>
> thanks in advance for any help.
> Thor Hardarson
> th100(at)simnet.is
> RV9 empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Simpson" <fsimpson(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Don't know how I made it onto your mailing list but I have been receiving
hundreds of emails from you folks. While I'm certain it is all very
interesting I would really appreciate it if you would delete me from your
mailing list. My email address is:
fsimpson(at)bellsouth.net
Thank you for your consideration.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gretz heated pitot tube installation
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a good pictorial of the installation of the Gretz heated
> Pitot/static tube on their web site?
>
I don't know that it's very good, but I grabbed some of the images out of my
Kitlog files and stuck them in a web page that shows how I located things.
I
have the pitot + static Gretz and mounted it in the bay just outboard of the
one that Van's uses for the factory pitot.
Pix at:
http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/pitotstatic.html
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
In a message dated 4/11/2002 10:14:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Doesn't the head band on the 25x hit your canopy? Thats my big concern with
> them, it looks like it stands up about 1.5" above ones noggin and is hard
> plastic. I'm glad to see the LS Cross Countrys (QFR) got good reviews. They
> have a flat head band that I think will be easier on my canopy (in the
> event I ever do actually fly my RV) and the price is pretty standard at
> $275.00 a pop. The numbers on the brochure sure look good for that money.
> Chewing on this one also.
> .....................
I am only 5'11" so the headband does not hit the canopy. Got about 1.5 - 2
>
> inches clearance.
Allow me to weigh in here, fellas. I fly with a pair of Lightspeeds; 20's
for me, 15's for the guy on the right. At 5'-9", my head band does hit the
canopy, and I have a large scuffed area of plexi directly over my head as
proof. I think the answer all depends on seat thickness and canopy height,
as well as bodily dimensions. My seats are 3" sandwiched temperfoam, which
it takes a while to sink into when cold. My canopy got over-trimmed during
installation, so much so that I had to replace my rear turtledeck skin with a
longer one during installation, so it may sit a tad lower than the typical
RV-6 canopy; I've never really checked. At any rate, it is certainly
possible for this head to canopy contact to occur while wearing Lightspeeds,
which is why I, too, am looking at the QFR series. Might just see my old
Lightspeeds for sale on the list one day soon...
Bill B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gretz heated pitot tube installation |
Dear Mr. or Mrs. Simpson,
You have to do this yourself. See the address at the
bottom of the E_Mail.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y
> Don't know how I made it onto your mailing list but I have been
> receiving hundreds of emails from you folks. While I'm certain it is
all very
> interesting I would really appreciate it if you would delete me from
> your mailing list. My email address is:
fsimpson(at)bellsouth.net
Thank you for your consideration.
>
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Okay, I'm about to end up taking about 4-6 months off from the RV.
Briefly -- I'm selling my current house, getting married, and moving in
to her place.
So the bad news is there will be yet another delay in RV building.
(I figure I have about 2 months before the delay gets inserted).
The other bad news -- which is also good news -- is that her house
has a single-car tuckunder garage.
The good news is, I'm going to build a detached 2-car garage. I'll have
a room upstairs for my home office (I do a lot of my computer consulting
from home).
I'm looking for feedback on the layout and design. I'm going to heat
and cool the building and plumb it for the air compressor. I'm basically
thinking that I'll have built-in work benches along the side of the garage,
and all the big power tools along the back. I probably won't have running
water.
I'll have tons of lighting and probably paint everything white -- including
the floor. It should be real bright inside.
I haven't determined final dimensions yet, but it looks like we might be
able to be 24- or 26-feet wide by maybe 30- or 32- deep.
I'm looking for any feedback or suggestions from people. If you were
going to do this, what sort of features would you make sure to include?
Assume one wall is going to be one LONG workbench with some storage
underneath and probably pegboard behind it. I'll probably build in a
recessed area for the big dimpler frame and another one for a miter saw,
with inserts I can put into place when these devices are in storage below
the workbench. I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
replace the surface.
How deep would you make the working surface? Deeper is better,
but if it's too deep, I can't reach any tools I might want to hang up on the
pegboard.
I'm not sure what I want to do with my bench grinder. If I permanently
mount it somewhere, it might limit my choices of what I can grind. Open
to comments on this, too.
If you have any suggestions for features you'd include, please email me.
Thanks a bunch.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: ANR & Noise Canceling Headset Tutorials |
Lightspeeds' web site has a great tutorial on ANR and what to expect.
There are some not so obvious pieces of data and information that should
be read before purchasing your ANR's. The tutorials are available:
http://www.anrheadsets.com/tutorial101.html and
http://www.anrheadsets.com/tutorial201.html. Not so much as a
marketing or sales pitch from Lightspeed, you could certainly use the
data presented here to form opinions and purchase decisions for other
brand of ANR's......Recommended READ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart of
the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the parts
and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there a description
of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans state that "F-804
assembly is covered in section 7."
I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems unlike
Vans given the critical nature of this structure.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Question |
>
>
>Hi,
>
>How critical is the shape of the rudder trim tab? I can use one of two
>sizes of balsa wood trailing edge material. One is 3/8" x 1 1/2" wedge
>shape and the other is 1/4" x 1" wedge shape. Does the aspect ratio matter
>for any aerodynamic reason for something that seems rather minor?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E
Any difference between the two sizes would be impossible to notice or
measure. Use which ever one you want.
Kevin Horton - RV-8 Engine Installation, etc
Ottawa, Canada
http://member.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy |
Have checked the fuselage section?
-----Original Message-----
From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy
--> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart
of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the
parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there
a description of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans
state that "F-804 assembly is covered in section 7."
I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems
unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Jon...
In my preview plans on page 7-11 there are instructions on building the
"Bulkhead Assembly" F-804... I could fax it to you if you don't have
it...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jonweisw(at)rcn.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 F804 assy
Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804
('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which
diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings'
(section7) text is there a description of how to mate this critical
structure. The fuselage plans state that "F-804 assembly is covered in
section 7."
I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that
seems unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
In my -6, I have the cushions sized so that I sit as high as possible
without bonking my head on the canopy, so's to give max visibility on the
ground (and in the air). Sure wouldn't want to have to sit any lower just
because of some stupid thick headset band, so I went with the Peltors which
are basically "0 clearance". I believe the Sennheisers are too. The Peltors
are also nice and light, have good audio, and I've been very happy with
them. Frankly I don't understand why all this thick headband padding on some
headsets. I've never found the Peltor headband to be the least bit
uncomfortable. Easy to adjust the clamping pressure and even the shape of
the band too -- just bend the thing, its only stiff wire inside. In their
case KISS seems to work just fine.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
I was just reading ANN and there is an article about Telex's new Digital
ANR Headset...
http://aero-news.net/
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
All this talk about headsets has got me to thinking again about selling
my LightSpeed 20K's while they are still "new"... I have had them for a
couple years, but have only worn each of them maybe twice... I have two
20K's, if anyone is interested in them, contact me off list...
Bill VonDane - mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
Tell me it aint so. Don't do it! First it's 4 to 6 months off, next thing you
know it will be more like 12 months and then we all know what happens when the
baby comes.:)
By all means get married but don't quit working on the RV.
Gary
Quoting Joe Larson :
>
> Okay, I'm about to end up taking about 4-6 months off from the RV.
> Briefly -- I'm selling my current house, getting married, and moving
> in
> to her place.
>
> So the bad news is there will be yet another delay in RV building.
> (I figure I have about 2 months before the delay gets inserted).
>
> The other bad news -- which is also good news -- is that her house
> has a single-car tuckunder garage.
>
> The good news is, I'm going to build a detached 2-car garage. I'll
> have
> a room upstairs for my home office (I do a lot of my computer
> consulting
> from home).
>
> I'm looking for feedback on the layout and design. I'm going to heat
> and cool the building and plumb it for the air compressor. I'm
> basically
> thinking that I'll have built-in work benches along the side of the
> garage,
> and all the big power tools along the back. I probably won't have
> running
> water.
>
> I'll have tons of lighting and probably paint everything white --
> including
> the floor. It should be real bright inside.
>
> I haven't determined final dimensions yet, but it looks like we might
> be
> able to be 24- or 26-feet wide by maybe 30- or 32- deep.
>
> I'm looking for any feedback or suggestions from people. If you were
> going to do this, what sort of features would you make sure to
> include?
>
> Assume one wall is going to be one LONG workbench with some storage
> underneath and probably pegboard behind it. I'll probably build in a
> recessed area for the big dimpler frame and another one for a miter
> saw,
> with inserts I can put into place when these devices are in storage
> below
> the workbench. I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just
> periodically
> replace the surface.
>
> How deep would you make the working surface? Deeper is better,
> but if it's too deep, I can't reach any tools I might want to hang up on
> the
> pegboard.
>
> I'm not sure what I want to do with my bench grinder. If I
> permanently
> mount it somewhere, it might limit my choices of what I can grind.
> Open
> to comments on this, too.
>
> If you have any suggestions for features you'd include, please email
> me.
> Thanks a bunch.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I'm about to end up taking about 4-6 months off from the RV.
> Briefly -- I'm selling my current house, getting married, and moving in
> to her place.
>
> So the bad news is there will be yet another delay in RV building.
> (I figure I have about 2 months before the delay gets inserted).
>
> The other bad news -- which is also good news -- is that her house
> has a single-car tuckunder garage.
>
> The good news is, I'm going to build a detached 2-car garage. I'll have
> a room upstairs for my home office (I do a lot of my computer consulting
> from home).
>
> I'm looking for feedback on the layout and design. I'm going to heat
> and cool the building and plumb it for the air compressor. I'm basically
> thinking that I'll have built-in work benches along the side of the garage,
> and all the big power tools along the back. I probably won't have running
> water.
>
> I'll have tons of lighting and probably paint everything white -- including
> the floor. It should be real bright inside.
>
> I haven't determined final dimensions yet, but it looks like we might be
> able to be 24- or 26-feet wide by maybe 30- or 32- deep.
>
> I'm looking for any feedback or suggestions from people. If you were
> going to do this, what sort of features would you make sure to include?
>
> Assume one wall is going to be one LONG workbench with some storage
> underneath and probably pegboard behind it. I'll probably build in a
> recessed area for the big dimpler frame and another one for a miter saw,
> with inserts I can put into place when these devices are in storage below
> the workbench. I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
> replace the surface.
>
> How deep would you make the working surface? Deeper is better,
> but if it's too deep, I can't reach any tools I might want to hang up on the
> pegboard.
>
> I'm not sure what I want to do with my bench grinder. If I permanently
> mount it somewhere, it might limit my choices of what I can grind. Open
> to comments on this, too.
>
> If you have any suggestions for features you'd include, please email me.
> Thanks a bunch.
>
> -Joe
>
Joe,
One option for bench-top tools like a grinder, vise, and/or
belt/disc sander is a very sturdy (and heavy) work bench
around 3' X 4' with wheels on one end & retractable handles
on the other, kind of like a 2-wheeled garden cart. It can
live in a corner or between 2 fixed benches until you need
to access tools on the back side or you need more space
around the tool. Then you can just roll the whole affair to
a convenient location. A heavy duty electrical outlet strip
mounted under the bench & a good extension cord takes care
of power.
I have a full shelf under my work surface & anything that
doesn't have to be bolted down can be stored under the work
surface until needed.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy |
John,
Yep, some sequences seem a little puzzling......, pg. 7-11 recommends you
wait on building this bulkhead assy until the fuselage begins (followed by a
page description (10-22/97 edition), then on pg 8-2 , just after barely
starting the fuselage, it refers back to this in an 8 word reference!
Anyways, when I hit that point I found the pg 7-11 instructions adequate but
admit to spending a lot of quality time analyzing DWG 11 before every
operation and doing a LOT of cleco/fitting.
One part I JUST found I missed was the 4 nut plates on the bottom of F804A
(fwd pc) to clamp the fuel lines!!! this will be tough to reach in and
'handle'.
Then towards the end of section 8 you get to mate the wings to this and
verify just how good of a job you did making the spacer between the F804E &
F804F bars the SAME thickness as your wind spar ends. BTW, extending these
spacers well out past the end of the F804Cs will give you something to
attach short legs onto once the fuselage comes out of the jig and turned
right side up. I heeded everyone's suggestions to keep it as close to the
ground as possible (as opposed to standing it on the l.gear right away) and
boy does that make reaching inside to work much better.
Best of luck,
David
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
>
>Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804
('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which
diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7)
text is
>
>
David Grebe
RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
Starting Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
Joe Larson wrote:
>
> I'm looking for feedback on the layout and design.
>
> I'll have tons of lighting and probably paint everything white -- including
> the floor. It should be real bright inside.
I'm with you on white walls and ceiling but would recommend an industrial gray
for the floor, white floors for shops get scuff marks and actually can cause
some glare when you're looking down at a bench.
> Assume one wall is going to be one LONG workbench with some storage
> underneath and probably pegboard behind it. I'll probably build in a
> recessed area for the big dimpler frame and another one for a miter saw,
> with inserts I can put into place when these devices are in storage below
> the workbench. I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
> replace the surface.
I've got long perimeter benches and find that I really can't use them for
anything other than tool storage. Most RV building is best done on an 'island'
bench you can get all the way around. A long (say 3 x 10 foot) bench is ideal
but I get along ok with a 4 x 4 foot island bench that happens to be the same
height and abuts my table saw, so I can use the table saw as an accessory
horizontal area.
> How deep would you make the working surface? Deeper is better,
> but if it's too deep, I can't reach any tools I might want to hang up on the
> pegboard.
A roll around tool chest will help move your whole tool collection to whatever
side of the bench you happen to be working on. Pegboards only for stuff you
don't use very often.
> I'm not sure what I want to do with my bench grinder. If I permanently
> mount it somewhere, it might limit my choices of what I can grind. Open
> to comments on this, too.
I've got a bench grinder but haven't used it very much (am 550 shop hours into
the project). What I do use instead is a roll around band saw for rough cuts
plus a combination belt and disc sander (the big floor mount one that Sears
sells). An 80 grit sanding disk and a 4 inch wide x 30 inch sanding belt seems
to be a much better finishing tool than a bench grinder (for aluminum, anyway,
and it's just about all aluminum so far).
Highly recommended but somewhat nonstandard shop accessories that I have found
very useful:
- A laptop computer on a shelf, with Cat 5 Ethernet cable connected to a 100
Mbit hub connected to the cablemodem in the house. Having a web browser in the
shop running on a laptop will help you solve a lot of little construction
problems almost instantly -- lots of very nice builder's websites out there, and
you can order those pesky replacement parts from Van's immediately after you
mangle the part! :-)
- A self-contained small TV + VCR for viewing Orndorff videos just before you
start a particular operation, and for watching Junkyard Wars whenever it's on
and you're in the shop! :-)
Have fun and don't put a center post in that garage...
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DPrestonsr(at)aol.com |
I am changing ISP and lost favorite places list. Would appreciate if someone
would email me address for the RV finder someone shared with us a short while
back.
Thanks,
Doug Preston (dprestonsr(at)aol.com)
RV6A flying
RV-7A fuselage.
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 04/12/2002 10:37:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jpl(at)showpage.org writes:
> Assume one wall is going to be one LONG workbench with some storage
> underneath and probably pegboard behind it. I'll probably build in a
> recessed area for the big dimpler frame and another one for a miter saw,
> with inserts I can put into place when these devices are in storage below
> the workbench. I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
> replace the surface
Joe,
I'm a big fan of being able to get to all sides of whatever I'm working on,
so I prefer work benches that can be moved away from the wall. I have one
that's 4' x 2' that is just the right size for setting up V blocks for
control surfaces & U blocks for leading edges & tanks. For dimpling, my
bench is about 10' x 2' with a channel in the center for the C-Frame tool.
Both are light enough to be moved when necessary. Peg board is cool, but I
like tool cabinets better, keeps the tools cleaner & can be moved around.
I mounted my grinder, belt sander & band saw on stands. When you start
working on those long or awkward parts you can position the tool so there's
more room to operate.
Have a good vacation!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4 Waiting for the fuselage kit
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
http://www.rvproject.com/
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> DPrestonsr(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 10:30 PM
> To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: HELP
>
>
>
> I am changing ISP and lost favorite places list. Would
> appreciate if someone
> would email me address for the RV finder someone shared with
> us a short while
> back.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug Preston (dprestonsr(at)aol.com)
> RV6A flying
> RV-7A fuselage.
>
> DNA
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
I just read in Rvator of some of the engines to stay away from as far as
mounting on a 6. Could someone tell me what engines (Lycomming 150-160 hp
only) that I should consider. I am about to begin the search. Thanks, Bob
BTW, yes I am aware of the new ones Van is offering.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Where would I go to find out the info as to what #'s and letters represent
following the O-320?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
Bob,
Try going to http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.html
This is part of Lycomings web site.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N426BBRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 04/12/02 |
In a message dated 4/13/2002 1:58:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> . I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
> replace the surface.
>
Joe,
I would strongly recommend using an inside hollow core door. They are
cheap and the surface is perfectly flat. The faces of the doors are thin
enough that you can drill through your material, through the door, and your
clecos will penetrate through both and hold extremely well. When one side of
the door is full of holes, turn it over and go again. One door should last
for a couple of "scratch" RVs.
BB
RV 6A
628 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
Bob,
In the builders manual that I have for my 4, there is a list of all of
the suffixes for Lycomings.
The only engine that "I'm" aware of having a problem with a 6A is the
O-320-A1A. The carb
sits on the bottom of the oil sump but it favors the back edge. The nose
strut can hit the sump.
However, this is not a problem on a 6 taildragger.
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 ailerons
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine choice
>
> Where would I go to find out the info as to what #'s and letters represent
> following the O-320?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Sun n Fun Winners? |
Anyone know where to find the winners at Sun n Fun?
Alex Peterson
6A 132 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
> > . I'll probably also have one area with a replaceable
> > work top -- something I can drill into when I want, then just periodically
> > replace the surface.
I've done this on my work bench, and it works out well. I have a layer of 1/4"
fiberboard on top of two layers of 5/8" plywood, held down with small finishing
nails. When the top surface gets too marred, I'll just pop it off and put down
another one.
By the way, I've had the original top surface on since 97. It has supported
work for a major home renovation (including building my garage), a Lycoming
tear down and inspection, and my RV-6 project up to starting on the wings, plus
numerous smaller projects, and is still in good shape (though a little stained
in places).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
Hello RV list,
My RV4 (that I did not build) is due for its annual, and I plan to do
most
of the inspection and then have my A&P do the technical stuff, check my
work, and sign off.
Does anyone have an annual checkoff list for their 4 that they would not
mind sharing that I could use as a guide?
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Texan4ft(at)aol.com |
Hi RV list,
I am in the exact same boat as Steve Mullin's and would also
treasure an inspection list if someone out there was to come forward! RV4
N2131
Thank's,Dave Cobbs
Indianapolis, Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | MAC Trim Motor & Indicator Light |
I wired up the Elevator trim switch and indicator
light today. After putting 12 volts to the system the
elevator trim motor went up and down but the Indicator
light just stayed on at the bottom (or top).
I quess the question is "How do you sycranise the
motor and the light?"
Dan
rv6a
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine choice |
Bob, the H2AD engine used on the C172 is usually a bargain if you are
thinking of a used engine. It is a good engine but has a bad
reputation! My engine cost $3500 first run but will need overhaul or OH
sometime.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 2300 hours on H2AD engine (440 on RV)
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I just read in Rvator of some of the engines to stay away from as far as
> mounting on a 6. Could someone tell me what engines (Lycomming 150-160 hp
> only) that I should consider. I am about to begin the search. Thanks, Bob
> BTW, yes I am aware of the new ones Van is offering.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
Anyone using Lightspeed Engineering's electronic ignition system? It looks
very good on paper, but would like some real useage feedback. I was
thinking of a LASAR sysem instead, but at SunNFun I think I've changed my
mind about that. Any real usage info about LASAR would be appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Gary Liming
(sorry for any list crossover)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MAC Trim Motor & Indicator Light |
dan
do you have a schematic for the indicators? or the motor? the 2 white wires
off the motor is for the motor itself, reversing them will reverse the motor.
the other colors, green, orange, blue, are indicator wires. put the color
wires from the motor to the same colors to the indicator, then run the power
wire from your panel to the red wire on the indicator, and the black striped
wire to panel ground. you should be good. if the motor is moving the oposite
way from the motor, switch the blue and the orange.
hope this helps, but i have a schematic i can fax you if you need.
good luck
scott
tampa
final assembly in the hanger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Saturday the 13th.... |
Not that I am particularly supersticious or anything... but did anyone
(other than me) had "problems" in one or both of the following :
1) While screwing the fuel drain into the it's flange (part number VA-112 I
believe), did you find the tap to be undersize ? What IS the correct tap
size for the drain ?
2) Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that there
is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size ?
I am building a -7, but these would be the same for all RVs fuel drains, and
atleast 7s and 8s leading edge ribs.
Thanks,
Amit.
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Saturday the 13th... |
Not that I am particularly supersticious or anything... but did anyone
(other than me) have "problems" in one or both of the following :
1) While screwing the fuel drain into the it's flange (part number VA-112 I
believe), did you find the tap to be undersize ? What IS the correct tap
size for the drain ?
2) Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that there
is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size ?
I am building a -7, but these would be the same for all RVs fuel drains, and
atleast 7s and 8s leading edge ribs.
Thanks,
Amit.
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saturday the 13th... |
Amit, I can't help you with #1, but on #2, it is common that there is little
clearance. The "fix" is to acquire a single offset rivet set (around 5"),
and grind the side of it flat. Wrap clear packing tape around the end of it
to protect the web of the rib and you should be set (so to speak). This is
what I did and it worked well.
Mark
-8 Fuse almost, really this time, ready to come out of the jig
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Saturday the 13th...
>
> Not that I am particularly supersticious or anything... but did anyone
> (other than me) have "problems" in one or both of the following :
>
> 1) While screwing the fuel drain into the it's flange (part number VA-112
I
> believe), did you find the tap to be undersize ? What IS the correct tap
> size for the drain ?
>
>
> 2) Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that
there
> is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
> webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size
?
>
>
> I am building a -7, but these would be the same for all RVs fuel drains,
and
> atleast 7s and 8s leading edge ribs.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
> amitdagan(at)hotmail.com
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE ignition |
> Anyone using Lightspeed Engineering's electronic ignition system? It
> looks very good on paper, but would like some real useage
> feedback.
Got one. Like it lots. 340 hrs, no regrets.
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Saturday the 13th... |
RE: #1, see http://bowenaero.com/pix/tank6.jpg and the "tanks" page on
my site.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
>
> Not that I am particularly supersticious or anything... but
> did anyone
> (other than me) have "problems" in one or both of the following :
>
> 1) While screwing the fuel drain into the it's flange (part
> number VA-112 I
> believe), did you find the tap to be undersize ? What IS the
> correct tap
> size for the drain ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Tapping the fuel tank drain flange (was ... Saturday |
the 13th...)
I'll say this about that. It should be a tight fit. It's a pipe thread,
after all, that is supposed to turn hard after the first 1/2 to full turn in
the threads. If you run the tap up too far into the flange, the drain will
go in without trouble, but you will experience seepage of fuel around the
threads.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
RE: #1, see http://bowenaero.com/pix/tank6.jpg and the "tanks" page on
my site.
> Not that I am particularly supersticious or anything... but
> did anyone
> (other than me) have "problems" in one or both of the following :
>
> 1) While screwing the fuel drain into the it's flange (part
> number VA-112 I
> believe), did you find the tap to be undersize ? What IS the
> correct tap
> size for the drain ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
I remember reading about someone saying something about not wanting a thick
headband.
While flying today, I put my hand on my head beside my headband on my
Lightspeed 25XL. (One of the headsets that someone said had a thick
headband.) When the headset is off your head, it looks thick but is very
soft. On my head, the headband and pad is only about 1/2" above my head and
that includes the headband.
One of the plastic covers on the metal headband of one of my two 25XL
headsets broke last week. This fact was previously reported here. I phoned
Lightspeed Aviation on Wednesday and reported the problem. Today, Saturday,
the replacement part arrived priority mail.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,019.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers
a friend of mine wants to know why there isn't a both selector for the fuel
valve on low wing airplanes. is there a cross feed problem? why do we have to
switch between right and left tanks instead of like a cessna high wing where
we can select both?
scott
tampa
final assembly for the final time, 90- percent done, 90 percent to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DPrestonsr(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 in FLL area |
Will be in Fort Lauderdale, FL area April 17, 18, & 19. If anyone there has
RV-8 that would be willing to give me a ride I would greatly appreciate it.
Glad to donate to fuel fund or treat lunch or supper. Building 7A and
thinking about 8 next so can get back in tail wheel. Have only flown in 6A.
Please answer direct email or 205-823-2955.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
dprestonsr(at)aol.com
BHM
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
> Joe Larson wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for feedback on the layout and design.
> >
Another thing about the shop which is easy to overlook is that you should save
two
or ideally three 24 x 36" wall areas for hanging the working drawings. After you
get beyond the empennage, you'll find it very handy to have two sheets up at once.
And yes, you do want to hang them rather than putting them flat on a bench where
they will get smudged, torn, spilled on and generally beaten up.
A 36 inch long strip of wood with four large spring clips attached at equal
intervals will give you an easy way hang lots of working drawing sheets, and
position the one you're currently working with to the front.
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bending Longerons |
I made my first attempt at bending these longerons. So far I have a shallow
bend that almost (not good enough yet) follows the provided drawing.
Any suggestions on making the bend perfect?
I assume the accuracy of this bend is directly related to the accuracy
of my fuselage.
I'm following the plans where you hold the longeron in tension and then hit
it with a rubber hammer. I am getting some out of plane bending but I'll
correct that next building session.
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
fuse (been putting off bending the longerons til now)
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rv8 cargo door latch |
there was an email a few days ago showing a cheap latch to hold open the
baggage door in front.
can someone please give me this info/picture ?
thanks
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Headset vs Modified Dave Clark |
I have a set of lightspeed 20K that I got when I started flight training
about 2 1/2 years ago. They were a huge step up from the old ratty DCs that
the flight school loaned me for my lessons. Since then, they've flown with
me for about 60 hrs in a Cessna 152 and about 360 hours in my RV-4. My
observations are as follows.
They are comfy. Most ergonomicly correct headset I've ever put on my head.
They are physically delicate. I've broken the headband twice. Both times
the plastic cracked in the cold.
They are electronically "on the edge". Lightspeed tunes their ANR to be
very agressive. It is right on the edge of instability. If the system
becomes unstable, you hear feedback or a low pitched thrumming sound.
The net result is that mine have gone back to the factory Twice in 2 1/2
years. Service is fantastic. Great people, but not an industrial strength
headset.
Also, I recently had the opportunity to try a set of Dave Clark H10-13.4s
that a friend of mine had purchased when he started flight training. He had
modified his with the HEADSETS INC. ANR upgrade. These things were a
revelation. They had all the passive attenuation of the DCs with nearly the
active noise supression of the Lightspeeds. They weren't as cushy as the
lightspeeds but all the standard DC stuff is still in place. The spring
steel head band and yokes, as well as the best microphone in the business.
I will be putting my 20K's for sale on ebay and purchasing a used set of
DCs, into which I'll be putting the Headsets inc anr upgrade. I'll also be
purchasing a new cord from them for 20 bucks so there isn't a lose cord for
teh power supply. Also for another additional 20 bucks, you can get a dash
mounted power supply, so you can just plug into the panel.
I hope this helps you all withyour decisions.
Regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Headset vs Modified Dave Clark |
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> I have a set of lightspeed 20K that I got when I started flight training
> about 2 1/2 years ago. They were a huge step up from the old ratty DCs that
> the flight school loaned me for my lessons. Since then, they've flown with
> me for about 60 hrs in a Cessna 152 and about 360 hours in my RV-4. My
> observations are as follows.
>
> They are comfy. Most ergonomicly correct headset I've ever put on my head.
>
> They are physically delicate. I've broken the headband twice. Both times
> the plastic cracked in the cold.
>
> They are electronically "on the edge". Lightspeed tunes their ANR to be
> very agressive. It is right on the edge of instability. If the system
> becomes unstable, you hear feedback or a low pitched thrumming sound.
>
> The net result is that mine have gone back to the factory Twice in 2 1/2
> years. Service is fantastic. Great people, but not an industrial strength
> headset.
>
> Also, I recently had the opportunity to try a set of Dave Clark H10-13.4s
> that a friend of mine had purchased when he started flight training. He had
> modified his with the HEADSETS INC. ANR upgrade. These things were a
> revelation. They had all the passive attenuation of the DCs with nearly the
> active noise supression of the Lightspeeds. They weren't as cushy as the
> lightspeeds but all the standard DC stuff is still in place. The spring
> steel head band and yokes, as well as the best microphone in the business.
>
> I will be putting my 20K's for sale on ebay and purchasing a used set of
> DCs, into which I'll be putting the Headsets inc anr upgrade. I'll also be
> purchasing a new cord from them for 20 bucks so there isn't a lose cord for
> teh power supply. Also for another additional 20 bucks, you can get a dash
> mounted power supply, so you can just plug into the panel.
>
> I hope this helps you all withyour decisions.
>
> Regards,
>
> Don Mei
>
>
Don,
I have not responded to any of the headset post tell now when I read yours.
That is exactly the same results I got when comparing Lightspeed against
a DC with a Headset inc. upgrade. I was really skeptical about the upgrade
tell getting to compare them side by side. HSI now has upgrades for passive
Peltors like I have. I am going to upgrade one set and see how I like it in
the Peltors. If a person was to buy passive headsets and then the upgrade there
may not be that much of a savings but if you already own a set of headsets the
upgrade would cost about $190.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 cargo door latch |
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm
...about halfway down the page.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "martin heisler" <martinheisler(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv8 cargo door latch
>
> there was an email a few days ago showing a cheap latch to hold open the
> baggage door in front.
> can someone please give me this info/picture ?
> thanks
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: re metal horizontal vertical fairing |
This is one reference I picked up some time ago.
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/air_hammer_work.html
Doug Gray
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> A year or so ago I saw a reference to a site that showed some very nice
> all metal fairings for the horizontal vertical intersection fairing.
>
> Can any of you out there point me there?
> Might there be a pattern set or some such available, suitable to use as
> a starting point?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Modified Peltor Headsets |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Jerry,
I did what you are proposing. Worked great for me. I liked the Peltors so
got the HIS ANR. It has worked fine for a couple years, no problem. I
eventually sprang for another kit and did the other headset. Same result.
Can't tell any difference from any others except the Bose which is in
another stratosphere. Even with them I suspect the passive of the Peltors
is better.
Did notice they had improved the contents of the kit since the original.
Only worry I got is that when the batteries go dead, the sound quality goes
to shit so bad I can hardly understand the radio. So I carry spare
batteries, and now have the co pilot's side for a spare. Am seriously
considering adding the panel power supply.
> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 22:43:17 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed Headset vs Modified Dave Clark
>
>
>
> Donald Mei wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a set of lightspeed 20K that I got when I started flight training
>> about 2 1/2 years ago. They were a huge step up from the old ratty DCs that
>> the flight school loaned me for my lessons. Since then, they've flown with
>> me for about 60 hrs in a Cessna 152 and about 360 hours in my RV-4. My
>> observations are as follows.
>>
>> They are comfy. Most ergonomicly correct headset I've ever put on my head.
>>
>> They are physically delicate. I've broken the headband twice. Both times
>> the plastic cracked in the cold.
>>
>> They are electronically "on the edge". Lightspeed tunes their ANR to be
>> very agressive. It is right on the edge of instability. If the system
>> becomes unstable, you hear feedback or a low pitched thrumming sound.
>>
>> The net result is that mine have gone back to the factory Twice in 2 1/2
>> years. Service is fantastic. Great people, but not an industrial strength
>> headset.
>>
>> Also, I recently had the opportunity to try a set of Dave Clark H10-13.4s
>> that a friend of mine had purchased when he started flight training. He had
>> modified his with the HEADSETS INC. ANR upgrade. These things were a
>> revelation. They had all the passive attenuation of the DCs with nearly the
>> active noise supression of the Lightspeeds. They weren't as cushy as the
>> lightspeeds but all the standard DC stuff is still in place. The spring
>> steel head band and yokes, as well as the best microphone in the business.
>>
>> I will be putting my 20K's for sale on ebay and purchasing a used set of
>> DCs, into which I'll be putting the Headsets inc anr upgrade. I'll also be
>> purchasing a new cord from them for 20 bucks so there isn't a lose cord for
>> teh power supply. Also for another additional 20 bucks, you can get a dash
>> mounted power supply, so you can just plug into the panel.
>>
>> I hope this helps you all withyour decisions.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Don Mei
>>
>>
>
> Don,
> I have not responded to any of the headset post tell now when I read yours.
> That is exactly the same results I got when comparing Lightspeed against
> a DC with a Headset inc. upgrade. I was really skeptical about the upgrade
> tell getting to compare them side by side. HSI now has upgrades for passive
> Peltors like I have. I am going to upgrade one set and see how I like it in
> the Peltors. If a person was to buy passive headsets and then the upgrade
> there
> may not be that much of a savings but if you already own a set of headsets the
> upgrade would cost about $190.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
One tank will empty first when feeding from both tanks. This works well when
you are feeding under gravity pressure . When you are sucking fuel the pump
always sucks from the less restrictive tank. When that tank empties, then
air is always less restrictive. Engines don't run well on air and then quit.
I understand that there are fuel system designed to run on both with check
valves. But they add weight, complexity, and their failure mode leaves you
with the same problem, SUCKING AIR.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel lines
dear listers
a friend of mine wants to know why there isn't a both selector for the fuel
valve on low wing airplanes. is there a cross feed problem? why do we have
to
switch between right and left tanks instead of like a cessna high wing where
we can select both?
scott
tampa
final assembly for the final time, 90- percent done, 90 percent to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saturday the 13th... |
Amit
I used an off-set rivet set and ground a flat side on the rivet set. I
believe Orndorff shows this in one of his videos
I put some tape over the flat side so as not to score the ribs when
driving the rivet. The flat spot rides against the rib. This way the
rivet set moves over enough to sit square on the head.
Gert
> 2) Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that there
> is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
> webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size ?
>
> I am building a -7, but these would be the same for all RVs fuel drains, and
> atleast 7s and 8s leading edge ribs.
>
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
> amitdagan(at)hotmail.com
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>dear listers
>a friend of mine wants to know why there isn't a both selector for the fuel
>valve on low wing airplanes. is there a cross feed problem? why do we have to
>switch between right and left tanks instead of like a cessna high wing where
>we can select both?
>scott
>tampa
>final assembly for the final time, 90- percent done, 90 percent to go
>
If one tank runs dry the pump will suck air from that tank, as it is
easier to suck air than fuel. Engine stops.
Practical test for the non-believers - get some plastic tubing and a
tee. Run a tube from each end of the tee into a glass of water, and
suck on the output from the tee. See what happens when one glass
runs out of water.
On a high wing, if one tank runs dry, the fuel from the other tank
continues to feed down to the fuel selector, as gravity will pull the
fuel down hill, as it is heavier than air.
Bottom line - the only way to make a both system work on a low wing
aircraft is to have a header tank in the fuselage that is lower than
the wing tanks. The wings would gravity feed into the header. I
don't think this would work on an RV, as you can't get a header tank
low enough to get acceptable feed under all circumstances (e.g. a
full power climb at Vx).
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel lines
>
> >
> >dear listers
> >a friend of mine wants to know why there isn't a both selector for the
fuel
> >valve on low wing airplanes. is there a cross feed problem? >
> Practical test for the non-believers - get some plastic tubing and a
> tee. Run a tube from each end of the tee into a glass of water, and
> suck on the output from the tee. See what happens when one glass
> runs out of water.
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
The other thing it will likely do (see cross feed question, above), since
systems are never truly symmetrical, is deliver fuel from one side to the
other and thence overboard via the vent or a leaky filler cap.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Hey Scott,because of good ole gravity.
Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Longerons |
Hi Steve;
Another technique is to attach something long and solid to the longeron to
give lots of leverage and bend it by hand. This will allow you to regulate
the force being applied more easily and so control the bending action. Also
try and spread out the area being bent when doing the "side" bends. I cut a
gentle radius on a 2x6 and clamped to that longeron to that so I wouldn't
being bending the longeron around a sharp 90 deg corner. (The "vertical"
bends are concentrated in a smaller area however).
When bending my -6A longerons, I clamped the 2x6 longeron "form block" to a
solid piece of wood (the main structural part of my kid's play structure in
the back yard - believe it or not !) to form a really solid base. Most
workshop benches will not be solid or weighty enough. I then clamped a
longish (8' plus ?) 2x4 to the part being bent and then leaned on it. The
bend cannot be done in one action so, bend a little, move the longeron, bend
a little more, move the longeron, etc.
As someone else has pointed out, a perfect match to the template is not
really necessary, the bulkheads and skins will pull and hold the longeron
into place. Work more on keeping the bends smooth without "break" points or
straight sections.
Jim
RV-3
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <>
Subject: RV-List: Bending Longerons
>
> I made my first attempt at bending these longerons. So far I have a
shallow
> bend that almost (not good enough yet) follows the provided drawing.
>
> Any suggestions on making the bend perfect?
> I assume the accuracy of this bend is directly related to the accuracy
> of my fuselage.
>
> I'm following the plans where you hold the longeron in tension and then
hit
> it with a rubber hammer. I am getting some out of plane bending but I'll
> correct that next building session.
>
> Thankx
> Steve
> RV-7A
> fuse (been putting off bending the longerons til now)
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting le ribs to the spar |
Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that there
is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size ?
Amit,
I found I had to grind off the edge of the offset rivet set so that it would
get to these rivet heads. Also, the set keeps trying to rotate in the gun,
so you have to put something like duct tape on it to keep it straight.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting le ribs to the spar |
Blind rivets will probably not work since there is no room for the pop rivet
gun. I used the double offset and had my girlfriend hold the bucking bar
inside the rib. You'll find soom of the rivets will need a lot of pounding
to get them set. I used a much higher psi than normal (~65-70 psi I think).
Use masking tape on the rivet set as well and replace it every 2-3 rivets.
It takes a while but sure is moticating when that leading edge is on for the
final time.
Steve
RV-7A
fuse
>From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Riveting le ribs to the spar
>Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 09:05:13 -0700
>
>
> Rivetting the leading edge ribs to the main spar, did you find that there
>is not enough room for a rivet set (even an offset set) because of the rib
>webs ? Did you substitute these rivets with blind rivets ? which type/size
>?
>
>Amit,
>
>I found I had to grind off the edge of the offset rivet set so that it
>would
>get to these rivet heads. Also, the set keeps trying to rotate in the
>gun,
>so you have to put something like duct tape on it to keep it straight.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>RV8 finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | how to ID a new style tail |
I'm considering purchase of an existing -6(a) QB project, &
the current owner isn't sure whether the tail is the old -6
tail or the new style -8/-7 tail.
A quick archives search & Van's web site search didn't yield
any info.
What's the quickest way to tell? The owner did say that the
tail was the optional QB version.
Thanks,
Charlie
RV-4 (sold)
RV-2+2 (sale pending)
RV-6 or 7 (in my future)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how to ID a new style tail |
In a message dated 4/14/02 1:21:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
> considering purchase of an existing -6(a) QB project, &
> the current owner isn't sure whether the tail is the old -6
> tail or the new style -8/-7 tail.
>
> A quick archives search & Van's web site search didn't yield
> any info.
>
> What's the quickest way to tell? The owner did say that the
> tail was the optional QB version.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
There is a counterbalanced overhang on the rudder and the vertical stab is
taller.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112) |
To all who answered my question about the fuel drain tap problem - thanks.
Most said the tap (1/8" 27NTP) was tight on purpose.
Well, I started tighting the drain in the flange, it got really hard after
about 1/2 way, and that's when I should have stopped - I didn't - and I
broke (!) the drain halfway in the flange.
Since the flange was already riveted to the fuel tank skin, I'll have to
drill out these rivets and get a new flange and drain. Ugh!
Lesson learned:
Just because the VA-112 seems tapped, don't assume it is done right.
And another lesson:
If something is *really* hard to do, take 5, think, it can't be that hard -
you're doing something wrong.
Happy building,
Amit.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube plumbing |
For the pitot tube plumbing (not the actual pitot tube) do you use the
plastic (nylon?) tubing or aluminum tubing?
Steve
RV-7A
fuse & wings
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | WD-819 & F-821PP Interference? |
Listers,
I'm trying to determine the final position of my canopy slide
extrusions. I have the rear track installed and the slide extrusions
clamped in place.
With the canopy frame latched closed the WD-819A (front bow) is hitting
the upper aft edge of the F-821PP top front skin. The interference is at
the aft/upper edge of the "cutout" portion of the top skin. If I
adjust(bend) the bow to not interfere I will not have a smooth
transition from the canopy frame to the side skins. I'm sure the smooth
transition is the most important thing and I "think" I need to just trim
the skin so as not to interfere. I used the Van's scribe line to make
the cutout in the F-821.
Anyone else had this problem? Am I correct in assuming that this skin is
just not trimmed enough?
I think this area gets covered completely by the skirts but I'd hate to
have a gap there.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado (80081, 80deg today = canopy time)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L.J.Clarkson" <lclarkso(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how to ID a new style tail |
The 7&8 rudder have a counter balance on top
Lyle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: how to ID a new style tail
>
> I'm considering purchase of an existing -6(a) QB project, &
> the current owner isn't sure whether the tail is the old -6
> tail or the new style -8/-7 tail.
>
> A quick archives search & Van's web site search didn't yield
> any info.
>
> What's the quickest way to tell? The owner did say that the
> tail was the optional QB version.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
> RV-4 (sold)
> RV-2+2 (sale pending)
> RV-6 or 7 (in my future)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112) |
Try to get a hold of a small drill-out bit! It is in a left direction, and
will (with a little or lot of luck) make it possible to drill out the broken
part only, without damage to the threads on the flange.
If that does not work, then you can always (or rather have to!) replace the
flange later! But I'd try that left hand drill-out bit first.
Good Luck 2.U.
Konrad
ABQ-NM
> about 1/2 way, and that's when I should have stopped - I didn't - and I
> broke (!) the drain halfway in the flange.
>
> Since the flange was already riveted to the fuel tank skin, I'll have to
> drill out these rivets and get a new flange and drain. Ugh!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112) |
Before you drill out the rivets, go down to the local hardware store and
get an easy-out that fits the ID of the drain. You should be able to
just remove the broken piece of the drain with the easy-out. It's worth
a try.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
Subject: RV-List: fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112)
Well, I started tighting the drain in the flange, it got really hard
after
about 1/2 way, and that's when I should have stopped - I didn't - and I
broke (!) the drain halfway in the flange.
Since the flange was already riveted to the fuel tank skin, I'll have to
drill out these rivets and get a new flange and drain. Ugh!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | WD-819 & F-821PP Interference? |
I cut about one inch off those interfering corners....just a nice 45'
angle. That area will disappear behind fiberglass later....I think.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
83' today, canopy soon too.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Puckett
> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 1:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: WD-819 & F-821PP Interference?
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to determine the final position of my canopy slide
> extrusions. I have the rear track installed and the slide
> extrusions clamped in place.
>
> With the canopy frame latched closed the WD-819A (front bow)
> is hitting the upper aft edge of the F-821PP top front skin.
> The interference is at the aft/upper edge of the "cutout"
> portion of the top skin. If I
> adjust(bend) the bow to not interfere I will not have a
> smooth transition from the canopy frame to the side skins.
> I'm sure the smooth transition is the most important thing
> and I "think" I need to just trim the skin so as not to
> interfere. I used the Van's scribe line to make the cutout in
> the F-821.
>
> Anyone else had this problem? Am I correct in assuming that
> this skin is just not trimmed enough?
>
> I think this area gets covered completely by the skirts but
> I'd hate to have a gap there.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, Colorado (80081, 80deg today = canopy time)
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube plumbing |
In a message dated 4/14/2002 1:47:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com writes:
> For the pitot tube plumbing (not the actual pitot tube) do you use the
> plastic (nylon?) tubing or aluminum tubing?
>
I used aluminum tubing on my RV-4.
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
Has onyone out there gotten their steel parts powder coated? I know the
newer kits come this way but I am trying to find out an order of magnitude
price for getting the engine mount, rollover bar, and landing gear legs
powder coated and wondered what esperience anyone had in this area.
Richard
N144KT RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
>
>Has onyone out there gotten their steel parts powder coated? I know the
>newer kits come this way but I am trying to find out an order of magnitude
>price for getting the engine mount, rollover bar, and landing gear legs
>powder coated and wondered what esperience anyone had in this area.
>
>Richard
>N144KT RV-4
>
Richard,
I powdercoated the engine mount on my -8 and to this day am totally
impressed with how durable it is. I wish I could have afforded to coat all
the other steel parts, most of which came pre-rusted back in the "olden
days". I paid $50 for the engine mount alone, which seems to be pretty
typical from others I've talked to who have done the same. You'd probably be
best served to gather up all the stuff you want to coat and have them done
in one batch to reduce setup time for the company doing the job.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
280 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
i raced 2 years ago and i know they give the racers the results before
anyone else, if anyone on this list raced could you post the speeds?
Dennis in Chicago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
Just got the engine mount, landing gear, rudder pedals, brake pedals, and
brake resevoir powder coated here in Denver for $113.00
The parts are for a 6
Gary
Richard Bibb wrote:
>
> Has onyone out there gotten their steel parts powder coated? I know the
> newer kits come this way but I am trying to find out an order of magnitude
> price for getting the engine mount, rollover bar, and landing gear legs
> powder coated and wondered what esperience anyone had in this area.
>
> Richard
> N144KT RV-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder |
Does anyone know the website for Microair?
Thanks,
John Warren
LaCenter Wa
RV-3A
RV-6 in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Here's what I have.
Bruce
Glasair III
************
Sun 100 (82 Nautical Miles) 04/08/2002
Class Open 300+HP
Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
1st T. Mustang 58EE Lou Meyer 17:40 278.79
2nd Glasair III 92XL Dan Denny 18:56 259.86
3rd Swearingen 350G Michael Smith 19:41 249.96
4th Lanc. Legacy 33XP Darryl Greenamyer 19:45 249.11
5th Lanc. Legacy 975RA Rick Schrameck 20:49 236.35
6th Swearingen 42SX William Rempe 21:04 233.54
7th Glasair III 500WE Kory Cornum 21:39 227.25
8th Velocity 56XL Douglas Shell 25:45 191.07
Class 3 180-240HP Open
Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
1st Glasair TD 91LH Bruce Hammer 23:09 212.53
2nd Glasair TD 73SH Stevan Hammer 23:21 210.71
3rd RV8 233M Richard Martin 24:32 200.54
4th Mustang II 468DM Don Morris 25:06 196.02
5th Velocity XL 19DW Donald White 26:03 188.87
6th Mustang II 22YR Kirk Harrell 22:08 148.49
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
Powder coating is generally cheap, as long as you do all of your stuff at
once. The local place that I used charges a minimum $35 no matter how small
the part is. You can get alot of small parts done for $35. I would think
you could powder coat all of your steel hardware for less than $200.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Powder Coating
>
> Has onyone out there gotten their steel parts powder coated? I know the
> newer kits come this way but I am trying to find out an order of magnitude
> price for getting the engine mount, rollover bar, and landing gear legs
> powder coated and wondered what esperience anyone had in this area.
>
> Richard
> N144KT RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Microair Transponder |
http://microair.com.au/home.asp
>
> Does anyone know the website for Microair?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112) |
Hello Amit,
To add a bit to the good advise already given:
Modify a short length of hacksaw blade by grinding off the back of the blade
so that the remaining blade section can be used to cut a vertical slice in
the offending remains of the broken fitting. Do not cut deep enough into the
brass to actually touch the aluminum threads. The purpose of the cut is to
release the pressure that was put in during the installation. With a bit of
care and a lot of gentle persuasion using the previous suggested tools. Also
possibly with a small chisel and a light hammer you should be able to
salvage the flange without drilling out rivets etc.
By catching the edges of the broken piece near the hacksaw cut with the
chisel and directing the hammer blows toward the center of the hole you
should be able to peel the brass remains out of the hole. the worst that can
happen would be the replacement of the flange as you already suggested.
Jim in Kelowna
>snip< RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray"
>
> Before you drill out the rivets, go down to the local hardware store and
> get an easy-out that fits the ID of the drain. You should be able to
> just remove the broken piece of the drain with the easy-out. It's worth
> a try.
>
> Bruce
On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112)
>
>
> Well, I started tighting the drain in the flange, it got really hard
> after
> about 1/2 way, and that's when I should have stopped - I didn't - and I
> broke (!) the drain halfway in the flange.
>
> Since the flange was already riveted to the fuel tank skin, I'll have to
>
> drill out these rivets and get a new flange and drain. Ugh!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how to ID a new style tail |
Charlie,
Good to see you are getting back into an RV. The most obvious clue is the
top of the rudder. If it has a counter balance weight, it's new style. Old
syle doesn't have the wieght.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok rv6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: how to ID a new style tail
>
> I'm considering purchase of an existing -6(a) QB project, &
> the current owner isn't sure whether the tail is the old -6
> tail or the new style -8/-7 tail.
>
> A quick archives search & Van's web site search didn't yield
> any info.
>
> What's the quickest way to tell? The owner did say that the
> tail was the optional QB version.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
> RV-4 (sold)
> RV-2+2 (sale pending)
> RV-6 or 7 (in my future)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <rmd-mcse(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
From the Lancair list:
>>Sun 100 (82 Nautical Miles) 04/08/2002
>>
>>Class Open 300+HP
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st T. Mustang 58EE Lou Meyer 17:40 278.79
>> 2nd Glasair III 92XL Dan Denny 18:56 259.86
>> 3rd Swearingen 350G Michael Smith 19:41 249.96
>> 4th Lanc. Legacy 33XP Darryl Greenamyer 19:45 249.11
>> 5th Lanc. Legacy 975RA Rick Schrameck 20:49 236.35
>> 6th Swearingen 42SX William Rempe 21:04 233.54
>> 7th Glasair III 500WE Kory Cornum 21:39 227.25
>> 8th Velocity 56XL Douglas Shell 25:45 191.07
>>
>>Class 3 180-240HP Open
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Glasair TD 91LH Bruce Hammer 23:09 212.53
>> 2nd Glasair TD 73SH Stevan Hammer 23:21 210.71
>> 3rd RV8 233M Richard Martin 24:32 200.54
>> 4th Mustang II 468DM Don Morris 25:06 196.02
>> 5th Velocity XL 19DW Donald White 26:03 188.87
>> 6th Mustang II 22YR Kirk Harrell 22:08 148.49
>>
>>Class 4 180HP Lancair
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Lancair 360 360LH Larry Henney 23:26 209.96
>> 2nd Lancair 360 96AC Arnole Christen 23:56 205.57
>> 3rd Lancair 360 360TG Tom Giddings 24:56 197.33
>>
>>Class 7 180HP RV
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st RV6 241RB Richard Jankowski 24:50 198.12
>> 2nd RV6 239RS Ricrado Salinas 25:59 189.35
>> 3rd RV8 214FF Thomas Irlbeck 26:07 188.39
>> 4th RV8 104SJ Steven Foster 26:23 186.48
>> 5th RV4 83FS Frank Smith 26:40 184.50
>> 6th RV8 426NC Bob Hargrove 26:52 183.13
>>
>>Class 8 160HP Bushby Mustang II
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Mustang II 791RW Robert Wagner 26:10 188.03
>> 2nd Mustang II 44Q Ross Barnett 28:59 169.75
>> 3rd Mustang II 9PA Richard Woodsum 29:41 165.75
>>
>>Class 9 150-160HP Open
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st RV6 311U Robert Goodman 27:40 177.83
> >> 2nd Cozy Mk IV 215TW Tim Freeze 28:08 174.88
>> 3rd RV6 396DS Roger Herschbein 30:05 163.55
>>
>>Class 10 160HP Lancair
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Lancair 320 92EX Thomas Kane 24:20 202.19
>> 2nd Lancair 320 5ZQ Van Grant 25:06 196.02
>> Lancair 320 31161 Lorn H. Olsen Flat Tire & Frustrated
>>
>>Class 11 80HP Pulsar
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Pulsar XP 17575 Thomas Kane 40:27 121.63
>> 2nd Pulsar XP 212MJ Van Grant 40:42 120.88
>> Pulsar XP 54RT Rick Thomason ???
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
I'm using the old original LSE with timing pickups mounted behind flywheel.
I also run a brand new Slick on the right side, no impulse or shower of
sparks. It works great! You can really tell the power difference in power
and smoothness between the two.
I did run into a problem starting though. I was originally using a SkyTec
starter which apparently was pulling way too much current, still not sure if
this is a characteristic, or if starter was defective. The theory goes like
this. The starter pulled so much current at start, LSE was giving false
start ignition impulse due to excessive voltage drop. This caused ignition
to fire before TDC and broke the starter and ring gear several times on kick
back. Very expense!!! Read on to see the cure.
During my experience, I replaced the starter drive gear once, replaced the
ring gear once , rebuilt entire starter after the front case was broken
clean off (+ other starter parts), and replaced the entire flywheel once
plus another drive gear. Throughout my 6+ month experience all my efforts
came up short. Problem was always getting the engine to turn fast enough
before ignition would fire. After becoming very gun shy at start I changed
my start procedure to leave ignition off until engine was spinning, then
engage LSE and start engine, this works well to protect against kick back.
With the new procedure, I began to realize the battery could only handle a
couple good starts before requiring a full overnight charge from the wall. I
never noticed this before because I always started with full charge for fear
of kick back when engine turned too slowly.
Of course SkyTec felt this was either the ignition or my faulty
installation. Had several people look at installation but all looked good so
we could only speculate. I tried moving battery forward from behind
passenger seat to firewall (was using 2 gauge at 7 feet changed to 18 inches
but no fix) but this did not help at all. Added the 11 lb flywheel weight to
my wood prop but no help. Tried a different hugh battery but still no
change, battery still run down quickly.
Finally, with advice from a couple people, I tried a different starter. I
tried a B&C starter and what a hugh difference. Engine seems to spin
effortlessly now and the battery doesn't run down for a long time. Engine
still turns fast enough when volts are down to 12v or less (never true with
SkyTec). Needless to say, SkyTec does not warranty their starter once the
period has expired even if the starter is brand new never used. So total
cost was new SktTec + ring gear + flywheel + many Sky Tec parts +
installation changes + new B&C starter. The only change I made to the LSE
was to ensure it is wired direct to + terminal at battery to eliminate
voltage drop during start.
Anyway, Hope this experience saves others some bucks. It cost me lots of
money but all is fixed now and I love my B&C. Bottom line is, protect your
starter with that ignition if you use SkyTec. Spin engine then engage the
ignition. It works kind of like the old radials with inertial starter. I
still do it with B&C (even though I probably don't need to) because I'm
still gun shy with this high compression engine.
Later,
Mike Wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Liming [mailto:gary(at)liming.org]
Subject: RV-List: LSE ignition
Anyone using Lightspeed Engineering's electronic ignition system? It looks
very good on paper, but would like some real useage feedback. I was
thinking of a LASAR sysem instead, but at SunNFun I think I've changed my
mind about that. Any real usage info about LASAR would be appreciated as
well.
Thanks,
Gary Liming
(sorry for any list crossover)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
Sam-
Are you going all glass-cockpit - or are you going to
put in an attitude, airspeed etc gauges as backup ?
I know that blue mountain recommends the std gauges,
however I was planning on makeing
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
Sam-
Are you going all glass-cockpit - or are you going to
put in an attitude, airspeed etc gauges as backup ?
I know that blue mountain recommends the std gauges,
however I was planning on making my aircraft VFR only.
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
To those with the SL30 nav/comm,
Are you using the integrated VOX intercom, or an additional/separate
intercom? I hope to have some kind of music input. Can I do that with
the SL30 and no additional equipment?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/finish/shopping
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles |
Hello,
I am finishing up the installation of the left and right hand consoles
on my RV-8. Problem is that drawings show a large hole on the gearbox
side, presumably for the cables that go to each console, but I can't
find any reference to it in the plans or drawings.
Can anyone who has drilled these two holes tell me where in the plans
they are referenced, and if not, what size they used to drill them?
Ref: dwg 30 section L-L' and G-G'.
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
Rv8 canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Baggage Shelf bracing? |
Hello,
Just installed the rear baggage shelf and noticed that the self rattles
pretty easily. Has anybody gone ahead and added stiffeners to the
(F-835) Rear baggage shelf?
Thanks
Vince Himsl
RV8-canoe
Moscow, Id USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I friend has a SL60 GPS/COM and uses the built in intercom. If he had to do
it again he'd install a seperate intercom.
If you are talking with your passenger and somebody is broadcasting in the
area, the built in intercom will cutoff you conversation. This can get
annoying afterwhile.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Just installed the SL40 (comm only) with the DRE intercom.
SUMMARY: Get the intercom.
I feel that in the end you would not go wrong to use the DRE 244e (PS
Engineering and others are probably good too). The quality of the signal for
music is great, you can get it with a "clearance recorder option" (if you
were so inclined), it has music in and out and handles stereo and mono
headsets with ease.
I have flown in planes with the UPSAT devices as the only devices. It works,
but nowhere near the quality of an intercom like the DRE ... for music
**AND** for talking with the person sitting next to (or behind) you.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: SL30
To those with the SL30 nav/comm,
Are you using the integrated VOX intercom, or an additional/separate
intercom? I hope to have some kind of music input. Can I do that with
the SL30 and no additional equipment?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/finish/shopping
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: bluemountain EFIS |
Sam and Dag,
I picked up on your string a few days ago. I purchased the bluemountain
EFIS two months ago for my RV-4. Can't wait to install it. This system is
absolutely phenomenal. Did either of you guys by one?
Ref: you question on extra steam gauges. Here's what I'm going to add.
Elec turn and bank, G-meter, and mag compass. I went this route, because
the elect turn and bank combined with the EFIS does not require a vacuum
system anymore (weight savings). Eventually I'll upgrade this to an EFIS
lite since both gauges use a 3 1/8th hole. The G-meter I feel is a must for
an aerobatic aircraft, and the mag comp is always a good idea. I'm using
that EXP-2V bus system for my electrical. The system has 2 of its switches
that are wired in such a way that a backup battery can be installed in the
aircraft. Should the primary electrical system fail these two switches are
automatically connected to the back-up battery. the EFIS is connected to
one of these switches. EFIS Lite will be connected to the other. I'll
eventually upgrade the rear cockpit with an EFIS screen as well. The Pax
will not be able to change anything, but it sure would be nice to have a
system back there to allow me to do instruction in my RV-4.
Have you guys talked with or met Greg. The guy is great. Witty, smart and
fun. I visited his office at Copper Mtn a few months ago. I can't say
enough about Greg and Rick's customer support. They have been phenomenal.
For anyone else interested in the EFIS one here is the website
www.bluemountainavionics.com.
Rick Blaes
-----Original Message-----
From: dag adamson [mailto:dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: RE: EFIS Lite
Sam-
Are you going all glass-cockpit - or are you going to
put in an attitude, airspeed etc gauges as backup ?
I know that blue mountain recommends the std gauges,
however I was planning on makeing
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
the tampa tribune wrote up a nice article with pixs of rich jankowskis (
risky buisness) and about vans aircraft.
congrats Rich and Pat !!!!
scott
tampa
rv 6 widebody N747ES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:10:55 AM
Joe,
Next shop I set up will have a provision for easy priming. Go find Terry
Jantzi's web site on the W. Canada RVators site and look at his priming
box. Its just a big crate with a good air duct in it. It vents to the
outside. Now, turn that into a work bench where you can just raise the lid
like a coffin, under it is a wire mesh so the airflow from your gun won't
blow your parts around. It traps and vents the overspray outside to your
neighbors new white car. Its a beautifull thing. Now think of how easy it
would be to rig a paint booth in your shop with this deal already set up.
Eric
"Joe Larson" (at)matronics.com on 04/12/2002 10:35:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Shop Setup
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Bottom line is, protect your
>starter with that ignition if you use SkyTec. Spin engine then engage the
>ignition. It works kind of like the old radials with inertial starter. I
>still do it with B&C (even though I probably don't need to) because I'm
>still gun shy with this high compression engine.
>
>Later,
>Mike Wilson
>
Great information, Mike. I have the Skytech on my airplane and only
experienced kickback once. It happened when the boat anchor Concorde
battery was about dead, and the starter would just barely turn the prop.
The ignition was still hot though, so it fired....right as the prop
approached TDC in a compression stroke. Sure got my attention. No damage
done, much to my relief. Once I replaced the battery, I've had no problems
since. I have the current design LSE ignition, with the mag hole triggering
sensor module. I'm finding that by getting the prop spinning up to full
speed, and then switching on the ignition, I get very consistent and smooth
starts every time. I think this is probably the best, safest way to bring
the Lycosaur to life with an LSE or Rose ignition. Heck, kickback can
happen even with good ole mags if the conditions are just right. Best
defense: a healthy battery and a perky starter.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-819 & F-821PP Interference? |
Greg . . . if I'm reading your message right, yes, you have to trim this to
clear the front bow.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Subject: RV-List: WD-819 & F-821PP Interference?
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to determine the final position of my canopy slide
> extrusions. I have the rear track installed and the slide extrusions
> clamped in place.
>
> With the canopy frame latched closed the WD-819A (front bow) is hitting
> the upper aft edge of the F-821PP top front skin. The interference is at
> the aft/upper edge of the "cutout" portion of the top skin. If I
> adjust(bend) the bow to not interfere I will not have a smooth
> transition from the canopy frame to the side skins. I'm sure the smooth
> transition is the most important thing and I "think" I need to just trim
> the skin so as not to interfere. I used the Van's scribe line to make
> the cutout in the F-821.
>
> Anyone else had this problem? Am I correct in assuming that this skin is
> just not trimmed enough?
>
> I think this area gets covered completely by the skirts but I'd hate to
> have a gap there.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, Colorado (80081, 80deg today = canopy time)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Baggage Shelf bracing? |
I added stiffeners. I'm mounting my ELT on the shelf, and with batteries
the ELT is a bit on the heavy side.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rear Baggage Shelf bracing?
>
> Hello,
> Just installed the rear baggage shelf and noticed that the self rattles
> pretty easily. Has anybody gone ahead and added stiffeners to the
> (F-835) Rear baggage shelf?
>
> Thanks
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8-canoe
> Moscow, Id USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
>>
>>Class 3 180-240HP Open
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Glasair TD 91LH Bruce Hammer 23:09 212.53
>> 2nd Glasair TD 73SH Stevan Hammer 23:21 210.71
>> 3rd RV8 233M Richard Martin 24:32 200.54
>>Class 7 180HP RV
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st RV6 241RB Richard Jankowski 24:50 198.12
>> 2nd RV6 239RS Ricrado Salinas 25:59 189.35
>> 3rd RV8 214FF Thomas Irlbeck 26:07 188.39
>> 4th RV8 104SJ Steven Foster 26:23 186.48
_
Now, before you widebody guys get to gloating too much, notice we have the
fastest RV as an 8.
I talked to several of the racers there, it seems if you start with an
O-360, you call it 180 HP, regardless of what you do to it...is that really
true?
I have an O-360 that is converted to Bendix fuel injection, 10:1 pistons,
port and polish, that turned 223 HP on the dyno. Can I just call it 180 HP
and race in that class? Or should I be in the 180 - 240 open class?
Just curious, 198 kts seems pretty fast for a 180 HP machine.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
http://www.lazy8.net/rv82.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> the tampa tribune wrote up a nice article with pixs of rich jankowskis (
> risky buisness) and about vans aircraft.
> congrats Rich and Pat !!!!
>
> scott
> tampa
> rv 6 widebody N747ES
Since Scott teased us with the note about the article, but was devious
enough not to provide a link, here it is (without photos, however):
http://tampatrib.com/floridametronews/MGA1OCFZYZC.html
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Graves" <cgraves(at)secor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
I think that's MPH not KTS.....
----- Original Message -----
From: John Huft
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 6:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sun 100 race
>>
>>Class 3 180-240HP Open
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Glasair TD 91LH Bruce Hammer 23:09 212.53
>> 2nd Glasair TD 73SH Stevan Hammer 23:21 210.71
>> 3rd RV8 233M Richard Martin 24:32 200.54
>>Class 7 180HP RV
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st RV6 241RB Richard Jankowski 24:50 198.12
>> 2nd RV6 239RS Ricrado Salinas 25:59 189.35
>> 3rd RV8 214FF Thomas Irlbeck 26:07 188.39
>> 4th RV8 104SJ Steven Foster 26:23 186.48
_
Now, before you widebody guys get to gloating too much, notice we have
the
fastest RV as an 8.
I talked to several of the racers there, it seems if you start with an
O-360, you call it 180 HP, regardless of what you do to it...is that
really
true?
I have an O-360 that is converted to Bendix fuel injection, 10:1
pistons,
port and polish, that turned 223 HP on the dyno. Can I just call it
180 HP
and race in that class? Or should I be in the 180 - 240 open class?
Just curious, 198 kts seems pretty fast for a 180 HP machine.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
http://www.lazy8.net/rv82.html
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
No, it's knots.
82 nautical miles divided by 23:09 minutes = 3.5421 nautical
miles/minute times 60 minutes = 212.53 nautical miles per hour (KTS)
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Graves
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun 100 race
I think that's MPH not KTS.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
And if you think for a second that Dick Martin's -8 is running a stock 180
hp or even a 200 hp engine then.....guess again. I've talked with
Dick on many occasions (as many people have) over the past 4 years and I
think he estimates his engine is putting out around 220 hp or so.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> Now, before you widebody guys get to gloating too much, notice we have the
> fastest RV as an 8.
>
> I talked to several of the racers there, it seems if you start with an
> O-360, you call it 180 HP, regardless of what you do to it...is that
really
> true?
>
> I have an O-360 that is converted to Bendix fuel injection, 10:1 pistons,
> port and polish, that turned 223 HP on the dyno. Can I just call it 180 HP
> and race in that class? Or should I be in the 180 - 240 open class?
>
> Just curious, 198 kts seems pretty fast for a 180 HP machine.
>
> John Huft
> Pagosa Springs, CO
> http://www.lazy8.net/rv82.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy |
That page was omitted from my assembly manual AND preview plans. Yours was
probably too. Call VAN's and have them fax or mail it to you. I advise
waiting for the text. You don't want to screw this part up.
Also, Be SURE you heed the new hole location measurements for wiring and
battery cable pass through holes BEFORE drilling. They are printing in the
latest issue of RVator.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy
--> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart
of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the
parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there
a description of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans
state that "F-804 assembly is covered in section 7."
I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems
unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Graves" <cgraves(at)secor.com> |
That's Fast!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sun 100 race
No, it's knots.
82 nautical miles divided by 23:09 minutes = 3.5421 nautical
miles/minute times 60 minutes = 212.53 nautical miles per hour (KTS)
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Graves
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun 100 race
I think that's MPH not KTS.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Well, I was told by one of the racers that it was knots. However, I am
unable to reconcile the math, for one, Bruce Gray said the course was 100
miles, or 82 nautical, but 100 miles is about 87 nm.
The numbers work out if you use 82 nm for the course. Then the times
correspond to speeds in knots.
John
p.s. I showed the wrong url for my new website, it is
http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Graves
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun 100 race
I think that's MPH not KTS.....
----- Original Message -----
From: John Huft
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 6:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sun 100 race
>>
>>Class 3 180-240HP Open
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st Glasair TD 91LH Bruce Hammer 23:09 212.53
>> 2nd Glasair TD 73SH Stevan Hammer 23:21 210.71
>> 3rd RV8 233M Richard Martin 24:32 200.54
>>Class 7 180HP RV
>>
>>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
>>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
>> 1st RV6 241RB Richard Jankowski 24:50 198.12
>> 2nd RV6 239RS Ricrado Salinas 25:59 189.35
>> 3rd RV8 214FF Thomas Irlbeck 26:07 188.39
>> 4th RV8 104SJ Steven Foster 26:23 186.48
_
Now, before you widebody guys get to gloating too much, notice we have
the
fastest RV as an 8.
I talked to several of the racers there, it seems if you start with an
O-360, you call it 180 HP, regardless of what you do to it...is that
really
true?
I have an O-360 that is converted to Bendix fuel injection, 10:1
pistons,
port and polish, that turned 223 HP on the dyno. Can I just call it
180 HP
and race in that class? Or should I be in the 180 - 240 open class?
Just curious, 198 kts seems pretty fast for a 180 HP machine.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
http://www.lazy8.net/rv82.html
messages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RVs are too easy to fly |
I just got through flying an Aeronica Champ and am totally, entirely
humbled. The only tail wheel experience I have is in my RV-4 and I thought
I knew how to "fly" a tail dragger. Well, the champ was easy on the ground,
but boy was it hard to fly well in the air. I thought I knew how to use my
feet. Unfortunately (fortunately??) The RV doesn't really require much
footwork once you leave the ground.
If you haven't flown in one of these cranky old ADVERSE ALERON YAW MACHINES,
you should. It will give you some humility and can't help but make you a
better pilot.
It will also give you a renewed appreciation for your RV. ;-)
Don Mei
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words |
I will be ferrying an Aeronica Champ from Connecticut to East Texas (70
miles west of Shrieveport LA. and am looking for places to stop. I haven't
laid out my route and am looking for thoughts.
The buyer will be reimburseing me for hotel expenses, so I don't actually
need to sleep over, just looking for maybe someone to grab some dinner with.
Please send replies directly to don_mei(at)hotmail.com
Thanks.
Don Mei
RV-4 - N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
sorry sam
i didn't know it was available on the net. sorry i missed you again this
year, i guess that burger will have to wait till i fly my bird up your way :-)
scott
tampa
dna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
The SnF 100 isn't a true 100, it's more like 94.3 miles. I guess they
had trouble finding landmarks that were exactly 100 miles.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Huft
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sun 100 race
Well, I was told by one of the racers that it was knots. However, I am
unable to reconcile the math, for one, Bruce Gray said the course was
100 miles, or 82 nautical, but 100 miles is about 87 nm.
The numbers work out if you use 82 nm for the course. Then the times
correspond to speeds in knots.
John
p.s. I showed the wrong url for my new website, it is
http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
I have learned to get really tired of this question. This is always the
first question everyone asks when they see the fuel system, this includes
A&P mechanics. This is the one question that I answer most frequently.
What they are really asking, is: why isn't your RV a Cessna?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel lines
>
> dear listers
> a friend of mine wants to know why there isn't a both selector for the
fuel
> valve on low wing airplanes. is there a cross feed problem? why do we have
to
> switch between right and left tanks instead of like a cessna high wing
where
> we can select both?
> scott
> tampa
> final assembly for the final time, 90- percent done, 90 percent to go
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words |
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> I will be ferrying an Aeronica Champ from Connecticut to East Texas (70
> miles west of Shrieveport LA. and am looking for places to stop. I haven't
> laid out my route and am looking for thoughts.
>
> The buyer will be reimburseing me for hotel expenses, so I don't actually
> need to sleep over, just looking for maybe someone to grab some dinner with.
>
> Please send replies directly to don_mei(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
You're gonna need a LOT of places, Don!! :-)
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Enjoy your *summer* trip............ ;-)
Sam Buchanan (ex J-3 pilot......the best plane I ever owned......)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....and ranting about |
Sky-Te
c....
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Mike,
I read your post with interest since I'm planning dual Lightspeeds with Sky-Tec.
Haven't heard of anyone else with your problem which is strange. Just to make
sure, are you positive you have your engine timed correctly? Have you checked
it with a timing light? Also, Klaus Savier specifies that you retard the
timing 5 degrees for high compression engines...if you didn't do this, that would
also be a very good explanation for having kickback. Just thought I'd ask...
On the subject of Sky-Tec, your experience with them blaming it all on somebody
else when their product has a problem rings true from my limited experience in
talking to them. In your case it *probably* isn't a Sky-Tec problem, but a
while back I asked the List about experience with the Sky-Tec starter and while
everybody likes how well it cranks and how light it is, there were numerous
experiences with solenoid failures after only a few hundred hours. I called Sky-Tec
to inquire about it, wondering if perhaps it had been fixed or improved,
and they denied any problem with it whatsoever. Said they had never heard of
any problems, that nobody was ordering replacement parts, etc etc. Even Bart
Lalonde at Aerosport Power is aware of this weakness, but Sky-Tec is in complete
denial of it. The guy went on to say that if there were any problems it
must be because people haven't had their engine/prop dynamically balanced, so
the vibration gets to it. I asked him if he didn't think it would be reasonable
to improve (i.e. "ruggedize") the solenoid to handle the operating evironment
it was designed for, and he said no...you have to do a dynamic balance every
year or two, or else the vibration will wreck the solenoid. I said wait a minute,
you just told me there aren't any problems with it!? He says...well....um...yes
there's been some failures but it's not Sky-Tec's fault. This to me
is absurd given the fact that Sky-Tec's are approved for use on certified spam
cans, most of which (in my experience turning wrenches) NEVER get dynamically
balanced. After some more research I found out that folks like Robinson Helicopters
and Lycon and the competition aerobatic community have dumped Sky-Tec
for it's reliability problems and they all run B&C starters, even though they
are about 10 lbs vs. 7 lb for the Sky-Tec, the reliability is worth it.
For me it's a money issue...so with very great reluctance and shame I'm probly
putting a Sky-Tec on my airplane despite my negative impression of their operation,
support, etc.....guess I'll just hand prop it when the solenoid craps out,
and order some new parts....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding F@*#!glass!!
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: LSE ignition
I'm using the old original LSE with timing pickups mounted behind flywheel.
I also run a brand new Slick on the right side, no impulse or shower of
sparks. It works great! You can really tell the power difference in power
and smoothness between the two.
I did run into a problem starting though. I was originally using a SkyTec
starter which apparently was pulling way too much current, still not sure if
this is a characteristic, or if starter was defective. The theory goes like
this. The starter pulled so much current at start, LSE was giving false
start ignition impulse due to excessive voltage drop. This caused ignition
to fire before TDC and broke the starter and ring gear several times on kick
back. Very expense!!! Read on to see the cure.
During my experience, I replaced the starter drive gear once, replaced the
ring gear once , rebuilt entire starter after the front case was broken
clean off (+ other starter parts), and replaced the entire flywheel once
plus another drive gear. Throughout my 6+ month experience all my efforts
came up short. Problem was always getting the engine to turn fast enough
before ignition would fire. After becoming very gun shy at start I changed
my start procedure to leave ignition off until engine was spinning, then
engage LSE and start engine, this works well to protect against kick back.
With the new procedure, I began to realize the battery could only handle a
couple good starts before requiring a full overnight charge from the wall. I
never noticed this before because I always started with full charge for fear
of kick back when engine turned too slowly.
Of course SkyTec felt this was either the ignition or my faulty
installation. Had several people look at installation but all looked good so
we could only speculate. I tried moving battery forward from behind
passenger seat to firewall (was using 2 gauge at 7 feet changed to 18 inches
but no fix) but this did not help at all. Added the 11 lb flywheel weight to
my wood prop but no help. Tried a different hugh battery but still no
change, battery still run down quickly.
Finally, with advice from a couple people, I tried a different starter. I
tried a B&C starter and what a hugh difference. Engine seems to spin
effortlessly now and the battery doesn't run down for a long time. Engine
still turns fast enough when volts are down to 12v or less (never true with
SkyTec). Needless to say, SkyTec does not warranty their starter once the
period has expired even if the starter is brand new never used. So total
cost was new SktTec + ring gear + flywheel + many Sky Tec parts +
installation changes + new B&C starter. The only change I made to the LSE
was to ensure it is wired direct to + terminal at battery to eliminate
voltage drop during start.
Anyway, Hope this experience saves others some bucks. It cost me lots of
money but all is fixed now and I love my B&C. Bottom line is, protect your
starter with that ignition if you use SkyTec. Spin engine then engage the
ignition. It works kind of like the old radials with inertial starter. I
still do it with B&C (even though I probably don't need to) because I'm
still gun shy with this high compression engine.
Later,
Mike Wilson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words |
Hi Donald:
Charlotte NC would probably be out of your way, but I would be honored to
break bread with you. 8A6 is a 3500 ft paved strip east of Charlotte where I
hang out.
Earl RV4, still working
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> I will be ferrying an Aeronica Champ from Connecticut to East Texas (70
> miles west of Shrieveport LA. and am looking for places to stop. I haven't
> laid out my route and am looking for thoughts.
>
> The buyer will be reimburseing me for hotel expenses, so I don't actually
> need to sleep over, just looking for maybe someone to grab some dinner with.
>
> Please send replies directly to don_mei(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 jig not needed |
The -7 preview plans fails to mention the dimensions of the empennage H-jig,
so I called Van's, and they said that it's probably not worth the effort to
build a jig. There's several RV-7 builders logs on the web, and they're all
using jigs. Are there any RV-7 builders out there not using a jig, and if
so, how's it working out? I have made a long workbench (10'x3'), and have
paid special care on making it level and flat -- would this be fine for
project? If the jig is not needed because of the pre-punched holes, is it at
least handy to support the structures for riveting etc? Comments welcome.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 jig not needed |
Mark, you don't need a "jig" per se. What you need is a convenient, sturdy
work holding structure. For the HS and VS, I'd probably just build them on
the workbench. For the control surfaces, I'd still use some sort of V
shaped jig simply to hold everything in a convenient and safe place while
you work. If you still want to build the H jig, I think the width was about
115".
Mark Dickens
Highlands Ranch, CO
-8 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Antenbring" <mantenbring(at)slcl.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 jig not needed
>
> The -7 preview plans fails to mention the dimensions of the empennage
H-jig,
> so I called Van's, and they said that it's probably not worth the effort
to
> build a jig. There's several RV-7 builders logs on the web, and they're
all
> using jigs. Are there any RV-7 builders out there not using a jig, and if
> so, how's it working out? I have made a long workbench (10'x3'), and have
> paid special care on making it level and flat -- would this be fine for
> project? If the jig is not needed because of the pre-punched holes, is it
at
> least handy to support the structures for riveting etc? Comments welcome.
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words |
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> I will be ferrying an Aeronica Champ from Connecticut to East Texas (70
> miles west of Shrieveport LA. and am looking for places to stop. I haven't
> laid out my route and am looking for thoughts.
>
> The buyer will be reimburseing me for hotel expenses, so I don't actually
> need to sleep over, just looking for maybe someone to grab some dinner with.
>
> Please send replies directly to don_mei(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
Well Don, we haven't moved yet & we actually have finished &
furnished bedrooms now.
Come on down & we'll go find some crawfish.
Charlie
Slobovia Outernational Airport
Pocahontas MS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 jig not needed |
If your kit has the pre punched ribs, no jig is required. It is actually
very handy to just be able to flip the assembly over to work on the other
side. The way the vertical and horizontal stabs are constructed, the aft
spar is the last piece to go on. If you follow the plans, there is no way
to use the jig. As for riveting, just lay the piece on your work bench,
reach your hand up into the structure and buck away (had to watch how I said
that:-).
You can see how the new kits go together on my web site.
April 15..............has come and gone, the office is now closed and I am
working on the right elevator.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. wings ordered.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RVs are too easy to fly |
I must agree, I have flown a Citrabria, Champ, Decathalon, Murphy Rebel and
Luscombe. By far the RV6 is much easier to fly, land or takeoff. I am not
sure if flying an RV taildragger counts as a taildragger??
Bob
>
> I just got through flying an Aeronica Champ and am totally, entirely
> humbled. The only tail wheel experience I have is in my RV-4 and I
thought
> I knew how to "fly" a tail dragger. Well, the champ was easy on the
ground,
> but boy was it hard to fly well in the air. I thought I knew how to use
my
> feet. Unfortunately (fortunately??) The RV doesn't really require much
> footwork once you leave the ground.
>
> If you haven't flown in one of these cranky old ADVERSE ALERON YAW
MACHINES,
> you should. It will give you some humility and can't help but make you a
> better pilot.
>
> It will also give you a renewed appreciation for your RV. ;-)
>
> Don Mei
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
Interesting note-
Bob Goodman's plane is actually an RV-4 according to the N number database
and it's Subaru powered.
>
> From the Lancair list:
---snip---
> >>
> >>Class 9 150-160HP Open
> >>
> >>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
> >>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
> >> 1st RV6 311U Robert Goodman 27:40 177.83
> >> 2nd Cozy Mk IV 215TW Tim Freeze 28:08 174.88
> >> 3rd RV6 396DS Roger Herschbein 30:05 163.55
> >>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles |
I drilled them. Don't think they are in the plans. I just located them based
on the consoles, and I think I drilled 1" holes. Bigger is better since it
becomes an ease of access issue.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl"
Hello,
I am finishing up the installation of the left and right hand consoles
on my RV-8. Problem is that drawings show a large hole on the gearbox
side, presumably for the cables that go to each console, but I can't
find any reference to it in the plans or drawings.
Can anyone who has drilled these two holes tell me where in the plans
they are referenced, and if not, what size they used to drill them?
Ref: dwg 30 section L-L' and G-G'.
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
Rv8 canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: bluemountain EFIS |
39 ASEW/E32/AC1 wrote:
>
>
> Sam and Dag,
> I picked up on your string a few days ago. I purchased the bluemountain
> EFIS two months ago for my RV-4. Can't wait to install it. This system is
> absolutely phenomenal. Did either of you guys by one?
Rick, I bought an EFIS/Lite which should be in my hands shortly.
>
> Ref: you question on extra steam gauges. Here's what I'm going to add.
> Elec turn and bank, G-meter, and mag compass. I went this route, because
> the elect turn and bank combined with the EFIS does not require a vacuum
> system anymore (weight savings). Eventually I'll upgrade this to an EFIS
> lite since both gauges use a 3 1/8th hole. The G-meter I feel is a must for
> an aerobatic aircraft, and the mag comp is always a good idea. I'm using
> that EXP-2V bus system for my electrical. The system has 2 of its switches
> that are wired in such a way that a backup battery can be installed in the
> aircraft. Should the primary electrical system fail these two switches are
> automatically connected to the back-up battery. the EFIS is connected to
> one of these switches. EFIS Lite will be connected to the other. I'll
> eventually upgrade the rear cockpit with an EFIS screen as well. The Pax
> will not be able to change anything, but it sure would be nice to have a
> system back there to allow me to do instruction in my RV-4.
In addition to the EFIS/Lite, I have the Navaid autopilot/turn
coordinator, and the RMI uEncoder which includes all pitot instruments.
Heading info is available from the two GPS's on board.
My RV-6 is wired according to 'Lectric Bob's Aeroelectric dual buss
system; the EFIS/Lite also has a backup battery.
>
> Have you guys talked with or met Greg. The guy is great. Witty, smart and
> fun. I visited his office at Copper Mtn a few months ago. I can't say
> enough about Greg and Rick's customer support. They have been phenomenal.
Yep, Greg Richter definitely has all his dogs barkin'!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 100 race |
> Interesting note-
> Bob Goodman's plane is actually an RV-4 according to the N number database
> and it's Subaru powered.
>
> >
> > From the Lancair list:
> ---snip---
> > >>
> > >>Class 9 150-160HP Open
> > >>
> > >>Place Type Tail# Pilot Time Speed
> > >>----- ------------ ----- ----------------- ----- ------
> > >> 1st RV6 311U Robert Goodman 27:40 177.83
> > >> 2nd Cozy Mk IV 215TW Tim Freeze 28:08 174.88
> > >> 3rd RV6 396DS Roger Herschbein 30:05 163.55
> > >>
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
It is an RV-4 powered by a turbocharged Subaru engine. There was a good
article in KITPLANE on this project and some of the trials of getting a
turbocharger solution. Nice looking installation and crowed under the cowl.
Bob, if you are on the list, I have some photos of your aircraft staging for
the airrace I can e mail you.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
Rotary Powered RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Curley" <mjcurley1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain flange tap - conclusions. (VA 112) |
I have found that the straight type of broken bolt remover, as opposed to
the LH twist type will remove a taper pipe stub most effectively. Just tap
it into the broken nipple until it grabs sufficiently and continue tapping
gently while turning. The twist type have so much leverage that they force
the taper thread of the pipe nipple to lock tighter. You may also consider
drilling most of the nipple out first. This would relieve some of the
compression on the taper pipe thread.
Mark Curley
> Before you drill out the rivets, go down to the local hardware store and
> get an easy-out that fits the ID of the drain. You should be able to
> just remove the broken piece of the drain with the easy-out. It's worth
> a try.
>
>
> Well, I started tighting the drain in the flange, it got really hard
> after
> about 1/2 way, and that's when I should have stopped - I didn't - and I
> broke (!) the drain halfway in the flange.
>
> Since the flange was already riveted to the fuel tank skin, I'll have to
>
> drill out these rivets and get a new flange and drain. Ugh!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hartzell hub SB "227" |
I was reading the archives for the Hartzell hub AD/SB 227. Van sold a lot of
these props over the years. Each one will potentially cost a lot of bucks to
comply this AD unless you want to always fly greasy side down. The only other
alternative is to get an expensive "eddy current" test every 150 hours.
I was wondering how many on the list are in the same boat as far as complying
to this AD? Individually, we have little bargaining power with the prop shops
for reassembling the new hubs, even though the parts are free or 1/2 price.
Together, however, we may have leverage to get a discount by offering a
single shop a block of work.
If you are interested in exploring our options, email me at "n130bn(at)aol.com".
That will avoid clogging this list. If it looks like there is critical mass,
we can proceed from there. PLEASE DO NOT ADD ANY TEXT! Just indicate in the
Subject that this is "SB227."
If you know someone that is facing this AD, but is not on this list, please
let them know that there may be a way to save money.
Bob Neuner
RV6 130BN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | RVs are too easy to fly |
Amen.
And don't forget the fact that you kinda have to *anticipate* and put in the
rudder action in advance because if you get a bit behind, you can get really
close to a ground loop. And how do I know this??? ;-)
When I flew with Mike Seager, I found the responsiveness of the RV for
takeoffs and landings to be ... "comforting" as compared to the Champ.
On the other hand, for nostalga, low and slow ...
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Mei
Subject: RV-List: RVs are too easy to fly
I just got through flying an Aeronica Champ and am totally, entirely
humbled. The only tail wheel experience I have is in my RV-4 and I thought
I knew how to "fly" a tail dragger. Well, the champ was easy on the ground,
but boy was it hard to fly well in the air. I thought I knew how to use my
feet. Unfortunately (fortunately??) The RV doesn't really require much
footwork once you leave the ground.
If you haven't flown in one of these cranky old ADVERSE ALERON YAW MACHINES,
you should. It will give you some humility and can't help but make you a
better pilot.
It will also give you a renewed appreciation for your RV. ;-)
Don Mei
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AFP boost pump ins & outs |
I need a sanity check on identifying the inlet vs relief valve output on
the AFP boost pump. I have the pump's high pressure output fitting
identified - that's easy. It's the 2 others that I'm confused about:
one is blue anodized and one gold anodized (the "center" one). One of
these 2 is the input to the pump and the other is the over-pressure
relief output of the pump.
Can anybody tell me Which is which?
Thanks
--
Tom Sargent.
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | order of build: flaps <-> ailerons |
From those who have recently built flaps and ailerons -
what would you say one should do first, and why, or is there no preference ?
Thanks,
Amit.
amitdagan(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Dear listers,
Mark Navratil wrote that for money's sake he will probably go with a
Sky-Tec. You all are ignoring a small starter manufacturer that caters
specificly to the kit plane market, Air-tec. I have one of their light
weight starters on my RV and it (combined with an odyssey bat) spins the
engine like crazy. (1 light speed ignition, no problems) The best part is
that the Air-tec is built on some Jap auto starter (reliable) and only costs
$200. The following is info from the Yeller Pages:
AIR-TEC INC (DICK WATERS) 800-366-4746 EXPERIMENTAL (NON-CERTIFIED) ENGINES
AND AUTOMOTIVE STARTERS W/BRACKETS FOR LYCOMINGS
Don't fail to consider this guy. Light weight, great service, and 600+
hours of trouble free service on my RV.
Dare to spend less.
Don Mei
RV-4 - N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skytec Starter |
i concurr with don, not only do they have lightweight powerful starters, but
they have a tiny altinator/regulator w/ bracket, that puts out 55 amps. i got
them to install these items when i purchased a o360a1a from them that only
had 600 hrs since new!!
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: order of build: flaps <-> ailerons |
Turn air DOWN when riveting aileron skins!!!! Review plans on ailerons that
call for the leading edge/hinge bracket to be 14 + - .025 inches-this is easy
to miss. Some have not paid attention and when mounting they have problems.
Both are really easy to build.
Bob in Arkansas
April 06, 2002 - April 16, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mr