RV-Archive.digest.vol-ms
April 16, 2002 - April 25, 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell hub SB "227" |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Bob,
I'm surprised too that nothing much has been said on this SB here.
Remember, this is a Service Bulletin, NOT AN AD. Everyone with a
Hartzell on an RV is affected by this SB.
If you read the SB from Hartzell
http://www.hartzellprop.com/product_support/sitelinks_servdocs.htm
(61-227rev2) is says something to the effect that 79,000 compact-hub
propellers have been manufactured and 40 have had cracks or blade
seperations. IMHO, that's a pretty low risk of failure, and these were
probably (yes, I'm speculating) on hopped-up engines and were run hard
on the aerobatic airplanes. It says they will spit grease as a sign of
imminent failure. Unless you have an A-suffix hub which you would get
replaced for free (until June) I wouldn't bother with it. I have two
Hartzells, one on my -6 that's affected and one on my F1. It would cost
me over $10,000 to have both hubs replaced. No-thank you. I think a
little prudence and common sense can go a long way here, keeping an eye
out for cracks and inspecting your hub visually. There are warning
signs. The SB says visual inspections aren't enough but I'd be willing
to bet that somebody wasn't looking hard enough. I will probably go with
the eddy-current inspections, but at greater intervals than 150 hours.
Personally, I think if guys can sleep at night that fly behind wood
propellers (I'm not knocking wood props) surely I shouldn't worry about
my Hartzell.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 290 hours
F1 Rocket under const.
From: Metalplane(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Hartzell hub SB "227"
I was reading the archives for the Hartzell hub AD/SB 227. Van sold a
lot of
these props over the years. Each one will potentially cost a lot of
bucks to
comply this AD unless you want to always fly greasy side down. The only
other
alternative is to get an expensive "eddy current" test every 150 hours.
I was wondering how many on the list are in the same boat as far as
complying
to this AD? Individually, we have little bargaining power with the prop
shops
for reassembling the new hubs, even though the parts are free or 1/2
price.
Together, however, we may have leverage to get a discount by offering a
single shop a block of work.
If you are interested in exploring our options, email me at "
n130bn(at)aol.com".
That will avoid clogging this list. If it looks like there is critical
mass,
we can proceed from there. PLEASE DO NOT ADD ANY TEXT! Just indicate in
the
Subject that this is "SB227."
If you know someone that is facing this AD, but is not on this list,
please
let them know that there may be a way to save money.
Bob Neuner
RV6 130BN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
Hi,
Now that I am flying, I need to put a rudder trim tab
onto my plane.
My RV-6 is powered by an O-360-A1A with a fix pitch wood
3 blade prop. The prop is pitched to turn at 2700 rpm
(75% power) at 8000'density altitude.
Questions:
1. Should I fabricate the trim tab out of balsa wood
wedge shaped stock or should I form that wedge shape out
of some .032" aluminum?
2. What should be the width and length of the wedge
shape?
3. At what altitude and power setting should I have the
ball centered in cruise flight?
Thank for the help,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
18 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Gordon,
My RV-6A with Aymar-Demuth and O-320 D1A takes a wood wedge 1 1/4 wide, 1/2
thick and 3 inches long. I set it up to have the ball centered at cruise
(180 mph) with the engine turning 2,400 RPM. Every airplane probably uses
something different.
You have a neat prop. Where did you get it?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont N227RV
-----Original Message-----
Now that I am flying, I need to put a rudder trim tab
onto my plane.
My RV-6 is powered by an O-360-A1A with a fix pitch wood
3 blade prop. The prop is pitched to turn at 2700 rpm
(75% power) at 8000'density altitude.
Questions:
1. Should I fabricate the trim tab out of balsa wood
wedge shaped stock or should I form that wedge shape out
of some .032" aluminum?
2. What should be the width and length of the wedge
shape?
3. At what altitude and power setting should I have the
ball centered in cruise flight?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
In a message dated 04/16/2002 7:53:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com writes:
> Unless you have an A-suffix hub which you would get
> replaced for free (until June) I wouldn't bother with it.
Hi All,
I just had my "A-suffix" hub replaced. The hub was free, but the overhaul
wasn't. The replacement requires a prop shop R&R, or an overhaul. Depending
on the age/time on the prop.
As I read the service bulletin, the cracks were internal to the lower hub
assembly. The SB doesn't specifically say this, but why else would the prop
be uninspectable on an installed prop.
For the "A-suffix" hub, the choice seemed to be to get a free hub for an
aerobatic category aircraft now, or buy a hub at the next overhaul.
(Age/time)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332
RV-4 Lyc engine Hartzell prop (6 year/2400 hour TBO)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Trim Tab |
Gordon,
I think the key here is to start with balsa wood taped on to the rudder and after
you have determined the correct size and shape, you would make a permanent
wedge out of any material you want. I have seen wood, plexi,
aluminum, and others. I would start with a wedge about 1" wide by 4 or 5" long,
from knife edge to about 1/4" thick. I have seen them glued on,
screwed on and riveted on. I made mine out of aluminum and stuck it on with some
PRC. This was 12 years ago.
I would design the wedge to center the ball in normal cruise flight, whatever that
is for you. It might take 4 or 5 flights to get it the right size.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Firewall Forward
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Trim Tab
Hi,
Now that I am flying, I need to put a rudder trim tab
onto my plane.
My RV-6 is powered by an O-360-A1A with a fix pitch wood
3 blade prop. The prop is pitched to turn at 2700 rpm
(75% power) at 8000'density altitude.
Questions:
1. Should I fabricate the trim tab out of balsa wood
wedge shaped stock or should I form that wedge shape out
of some .032" aluminum?
2. What should be the width and length of the wedge
shape?
3. At what altitude and power setting should I have the
ball centered in cruise flight?
Thank for the help,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
18 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Trim Tab |
Hello you Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, and others,
Use a piece of .025 x 2" x 3" to 4", bend it (approximately 10 degrees)
down the middle of its length. Stick this tab on the rudder with double
sided tape. There is some very thin industrial strength made by 3M that
works great for the final install.
Make a few with different degrees of bend. Use duct tape to try out
different bends. Then when the desired result is achieved you can use the
experimental information to use either the bent angle "tab" or a custom made
wedge.
Fine tuning can be done by cutting the tab a bit shorter in width and or
length.
The "wedge" is nice because it does not protrude back off the rudder
profile. Either one can be held in place very effectively with the thin
double sided tape.
It seems the "tab" is not as resistant to testing by casual inspectors
(after all these aircraft are experimental aren't they?!!) and can catch on
things (such as unofficial testers fingers) {:-)!! or hurt unfamiliar hands
during washing.
Paint the suitable chosen unit, stick it on and fly, fly, fly!
Others can correct me, I doubt that altitude will be an issue in this case.
Also, I assume you would use the cruise speed that you expect to use most
often.
Good flights and greased landings,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Trim Tab
>
> Hi,
> Now that I am flying, I need to put a rudder trim tab
> onto my plane.
>
> My RV-6 is powered by an O-360-A1A with a fix pitch wood
> 3 blade prop. The prop is pitched to turn at 2700 rpm
> (75% power) at 8000'density altitude.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Should I fabricate the trim tab out of balsa wood
> wedge shaped stock or should I form that wedge shape out
> of some .032" aluminum?
>
> 2. What should be the width and length of the wedge
> shape?
>
> 3. At what altitude and power setting should I have the
> ball centered in cruise flight?
>
> Thank for the help,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
> 18 hours.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Heavy Duty Hose Clamps - Exhaust System Clamps |
I was rather leary of using standard hardware store hose clamps for the
exhaust system on my RV-4. I have heard of no in field failures of the
hose clamps either....so.....Summit Racing has rather neat 3.99$ hose
clamps that use a "T" bolt to draw the clamp together, made of
stainless, and HD in construction. They resemble the clamps on the
production aircraft, especially the turbo clamps used on turbo exhaust
systems. These clamps clamp around the parimeter of the tube and provide
a superior clamping action then the worm drive hose clamps.
http://store.SummitRacing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Hose Clamps - Exhaust System Clamps |
What about a source for the "narrow" hose clamps recommended for the nose
gear fairing attachment to the lower nose gear leg, per the plans? I can't
seem to find such a beast anywhere and am considering substituting a lowly
nylon cable tie.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle/Mixture Cables for Bendix FI |
Hi Guys,
Once again I'm in need of some collective brain power. I'm just doing the
final hookups and routing of my control cables and am having a problem
figuring out how to attach the throttle and mixture cables onto the engine.
I haven't bought a bracket because Van's said they didn't have one for a
Bendix Servo. Here's my question, I know I could probably cobble one up,
but since I know there are planes flying, if you would be kind enough to
forward me your solution that would be great.
I have an AEIO-360-B4A (180 h.p.), standard downdraft sump, Bendix RSA fuel
servo, etc.. My throttle and mixture cables are standard, and the length is
ok.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Just rivetedon the fwd top skin and final install of intsrument panel!
Windshield next :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....and ranting |
abo
ut Sky-Te c....
We have double checked all timings and I am very accurate. There is no
mention of retarding timing in my LSE paper work. I spoke with Klaus about
my problem directly when I was trying to understand the failure. I asked if
I could retard the start timing, and Klaus said no don't! very clearly. I
verified and he would not gave a reason why I shouldn't. He did say, the LSE
must be wired (12v and Gnd) directly to the battery, not down stream from
the battery. He also pointed out that if the voltage to LSE drops below 7 to
10 volts during cranking, LSE could fire erroneously.
I don't know the truth about SkyTec, could just be a lemon. I have suffered
a very bad and expensive experience with the SkyTec starter and they have
chosen to place responsibility entirely with me. I have heard many SkyTec
installations with no problems and in my investigation have discovered what
I consider a significant number of people having problems too. I sent my
starter to SkyTec and they claim it is working properly after replacing the
solenoid, I have no intention of using it. I have also looked at several
SkyTec setups which seem to wear the ring gear at an angle, mine did too.
The B&C is perfectly square. Will probably sell the SkyTec if the
opportunity comes up.
I can say the B&C at $100 more is worth the security to me. It works
flawlessly.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com]
Subject: LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....and ranting about
Sky-Te c....
Hi Mike,
I read your post with interest since I'm planning dual Lightspeeds with
Sky-Tec. Haven't heard of anyone else with your problem which is strange.
Just to make sure, are you positive you have your engine timed correctly?
Have you checked it with a timing light? Also, Klaus Savier specifies that
you retard the timing 5 degrees for high compression engines...if you didn't
do this, that would also be a very good explanation for having kickback.
Just thought I'd ask...
On the subject of Sky-Tec, your experience with them blaming it all on
somebody else when their product has a problem rings true from my limited
experience in talking to them. In your case it *probably* isn't a Sky-Tec
problem, but a while back I asked the List about experience with the Sky-Tec
starter and while everybody likes how well it cranks and how light it is,
there were numerous experiences with solenoid failures after only a few
hundred hours. I called Sky-Tec to inquire about it, wondering if perhaps
it had been fixed or improved, and they denied any problem with it
whatsoever. Said they had never heard of any problems, that nobody was
ordering replacement parts, etc etc. Even Bart Lalonde at Aerosport Power
is aware of this weakness, but Sky-Tec is in complete denial of it. The guy
went on to say that if there were any problems it must be because people
haven't had their engine/prop dynamically balanced, so the vibration gets to
it. I asked him if he didn't think it would be reasonable to improve (i.e.
"ruggedize") the solenoid to handle the operating evironment it was designed
for, and he said no...you have to do a dynamic balance every year or two, or
else the vibration will wreck the solenoid. I said wait a minute, you just
told me there aren't any problems with it!? He says...well....um...yes
there's been some failures but it's not Sky-Tec's fault. This to me is
absurd given the fact that Sky-Tec's are approved for use on certified spam
cans, most of which (in my experience turning wrenches) NEVER get
dynamically balanced. After some more research I found out that folks like
Robinson Helicopters and Lycon and the competition aerobatic community have
dumped Sky-Tec for it's reliability problems and they all run B&C starters,
even though they are about 10 lbs vs. 7 lb for the Sky-Tec, the reliability
is worth it.
For me it's a money issue...so with very great reluctance and shame I'm
probly putting a Sky-Tec on my airplane despite my negative impression of
their operation, support, etc.....guess I'll just hand prop it when the
solenoid craps out, and order some new parts....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding F@*#!glass!!
____
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: LSE ignition
I'm using the old original LSE with timing pickups mounted behind flywheel.
I also run a brand new Slick on the right side, no impulse or shower of
sparks. It works great! You can really tell the power difference in power
and smoothness between the two.
I did run into a problem starting though. I was originally using a SkyTec
starter which apparently was pulling way too much current, still not sure if
this is a characteristic, or if starter was defective. The theory goes like
this. The starter pulled so much current at start, LSE was giving false
start ignition impulse due to excessive voltage drop. This caused ignition
to fire before TDC and broke the starter and ring gear several times on kick
back. Very expense!!! Read on to see the cure.
During my experience, I replaced the starter drive gear once, replaced the
ring gear once , rebuilt entire starter after the front case was broken
clean off (+ other starter parts), and replaced the entire flywheel once
plus another drive gear. Throughout my 6+ month experience all my efforts
came up short. Problem was always getting the engine to turn fast enough
before ignition would fire. After becoming very gun shy at start I changed
my start procedure to leave ignition off until engine was spinning, then
engage LSE and start engine, this works well to protect against kick back.
With the new procedure, I began to realize the battery could only handle a
couple good starts before requiring a full overnight charge from the wall. I
never noticed this before because I always started with full charge for fear
of kick back when engine turned too slowly.
Of course SkyTec felt this was either the ignition or my faulty
installation. Had several people look at installation but all looked good so
we could only speculate. I tried moving battery forward from behind
passenger seat to firewall (was using 2 gauge at 7 feet changed to 18 inches
but no fix) but this did not help at all. Added the 11 lb flywheel weight to
my wood prop but no help. Tried a different hugh battery but still no
change, battery still run down quickly.
Finally, with advice from a couple people, I tried a different starter. I
tried a B&C starter and what a hugh difference. Engine seems to spin
effortlessly now and the battery doesn't run down for a long time. Engine
still turns fast enough when volts are down to 12v or less (never true with
SkyTec). Needless to say, SkyTec does not warranty their starter once the
period has expired even if the starter is brand new never used. So total
cost was new SktTec + ring gear + flywheel + many Sky Tec parts +
installation changes + new B&C starter. The only change I made to the LSE
was to ensure it is wired direct to + terminal at battery to eliminate
voltage drop during start.
Anyway, Hope this experience saves others some bucks. It cost me lots of
money but all is fixed now and I love my B&C. Bottom line is, protect your
starter with that ignition if you use SkyTec. Spin engine then engage the
ignition. It works kind of like the old radials with inertial starter. I
still do it with B&C (even though I probably don't need to) because I'm
still gun shy with this high compression engine.
Later,
Mike Wilson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I have purchased the EFIS one for my RV-8 and talked to Greg at Sun n Fun
about three things. If you have installed Vans Capacitance Fuel system,
and purchased or plan on purchasing Eletronics International's module to
operate them, Greg will have to add a special circuit on your EFIS board to
make it work. The EI module puts out Pulsed AC or something and EFIS One
looks for DC voltage as I understand it. Additionally, The NAV AID
controller may not accept the GPS output of the EFIS one as is. Greg is
checking into just what the NAV AID controller is looking for and
determining if and what he may have to do to make EFIS one intergrate with
NAV AID. Additionally, the EFIS one now has AOA. It requires an input
like Perpitary Software's wing sensors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
Bob, your number of over $10,000 seems a little high even for overhaul on
two props.
I have been quoted $1412 for the overhaul labor and the hub will be free.
This price, I am told will include a complete overhaul including blade
reconditioning and painting along with the normal dimensional and x-ray
checks. The prop would be zero timed.
While it seems premature to overhaul a 260 hour prop as mine is, it is
approaching 6 calendar years old and like engines supposedly is susceptible
to some deterioration with time alone. The way I see it, for the chance to
get the new hub free and an overhaul it is worth doing.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hartzell hub SB "227"
>
> Bob,
>
> I'm surprised too that nothing much has been said on this SB here.
> Remember, this is a Service Bulletin, NOT AN AD. Everyone with a
> Hartzell on an RV is affected by this SB.
>Unless you have an A-suffix hub which you would get
> replaced for free (until June) I wouldn't bother with it. I have two
> Hartzells, one on my -6 that's affected and one on my F1. It would cost
> me over $10,000 to have both hubs replaced. No-thank you> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 290 hours
> F1 Rocket under const.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Trim Tab |
> Now that I am flying, I need to put a rudder trim tab
> onto my plane.
>
> My RV-6 is powered by an O-360-A1A with a fix pitch wood
> 3 blade prop. The prop is pitched to turn at 2700 rpm
> (75% power) at 8000'density altitude.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Should I fabricate the trim tab out of balsa wood
> wedge shaped stock or should I form that wedge shape out
> of some .032" aluminum?
>
> 2. What should be the width and length of the wedge
> shape?
>
> 3. At what altitude and power setting should I have the
> ball centered in cruise flight?
Glen:
One thing not mentioned in the other good suggestions was the vertical
location of the tab on the rudder. Mine (RV-4) is located low, about six
inches above the bottom. It is less visible there, but is probably also in
the wake of air coming of the fuselage. A location higher on the trailing
edge of the rudder might require a smaller tab for the same effect.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle/Mixture Cables for Bendix FI |
Stein:
I have been going thru the same thing on an IO-320-D1A with an RSA-5AD1
servo. I designed a bracket on AutoCAD which I emailed to Ken Krueger at
Van's. Ken was kind enough to make up a few prototypes of the bracket. It
looks like it will work in my installation (RV-9A with IO-320-D1A). I don't
know if it will work in any other airframe/engine combinations. I have just
uploaded a web page with some pictures and more detailed information:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/bendix.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
firewall forward stuff
-----Original Message-----
Once again I'm in need of some collective brain power. I'm just doing the
final hookups and routing of my control cables and am having a problem
figuring out how to attach the throttle and mixture cables onto the engine.
I haven't bought a bracket because Van's said they didn't have one for a
Bendix Servo. Here's my question, I know I could probably cobble one up,
but since I know there are planes flying, if you would be kind enough to
forward me your solution that would be great.
I have an AEIO-360-B4A (180 h.p.), standard downdraft sump, Bendix RSA fuel
servo, etc.. My throttle and mixture cables are standard, and the length is
ok.
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
Since we are on the topic of prop OH on these Hartzell props, does anyone
have any recommended prop shops. I contact our local shop in Minneapolis
(Maxwell) and got a estimate of $1800 - $2000 for the OH labor.
Doug Weiler
> While it seems premature to overhaul a 260 hour prop as mine is, it is
> approaching 6 calendar years old and like engines supposedly is
susceptible
> to some deterioration with time alone. The way I see it, for the chance
to
> get the new hub free and an overhaul it is worth doing.
>
> Dick Sipp
> N250DS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ahman <ahmanrv4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine choice |
Per the list in Van's summary the H has many AD's and most parts do not
interchange with the other O-320 engines.
> Bob, the H2AD engine used on the C172 is usually a bargain if you are
> thinking of a used engine. It is a good engine but has a bad
> reputation!
Best regards,
Jim Ahman
RV-4, Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
In the Pacific Northwest, I found prices between $1,000 - $1,200. One prop
shop stated that they wouldn't be concerned unless you do hardcore
aerobatics. Major concerns were for high horsepower installations (300+)
and Pitts/Extra style aerobatics.
YMMV
John Warren
LaCenter WA
RV-3A
RV-6 in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell hub SB "227"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine hook up Questions |
O.k. I'm finally hanging everything on the engine. I have an IO-360-B1F
with Bendix fuel servo. How have you guy secured the throttle and
mixture controls to the servo? I tried the Van's Throttle/mixture cable
holders and those did not even come close. Any ideas? Next it appears
that my mount for the prop governor is stripped at the oil output line.
Anybody have a spare?
Just like everybody said - The Vetterman exhaust went on easily and fit
perfect.
Also - I used the method of attaching the engine to the mount and then
the mount to the airplane and that was a piece of cake. I highly
recommend this way for dynofocal mounts.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Steve;
As an A&P I keep my old Cessna annual checklist that
covers more than every item on an RV. You can
reference it off the Cessna maintainers website or
your A&P should have one. I modified it for my RV4 but
needless to say an annual should be ongoing
year-round, so that at annual time it doesn't take too
long. Let me know if you have any problems.
Rob Ray
--- Steve Mullins wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins"
>
>
> Hello RV list,
>
> My RV4 (that I did not build) is due for its annual,
> and I plan to do
> most
> of the inspection and then have my A&P do the
> technical stuff, check my
> work, and sign off.
>
> Does anyone have an annual checkoff list for their 4
> that they would not
> mind sharing that I could use as a guide?
>
> Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Economics
> Drury University
> 417.889.5609 (home)
> 417.873.7299 (office)
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FS: New and completed RV-6 tail |
I have a completed RV-6 tail assembly that was constructed at Herb
Ross's builder's assistance facility in New Mexico. The workmanship is
excellent, and the only thing left to do is install the fiberglass tips.
Elevator and rudder are .020" thickness. Parts have never flown and
are in excellent condition. If you wanted a prettier tail, or the .020"
thickness, this is the deal for you. Make me a reasonable offer.
Please email any questions.
Why? I'm gonna build a Team Rocket or RV-7 tail because I'm hangin'
220HP+ on the nose.
Thanks,
Jimmy Cash
Granbury, TX
jcash(at)granbury.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
So without the EI module what happens? I have the cap. sender in my
tanks, but no other tank-related equipment yet.
Greg told me at SNF there would be plans for build-your-own AOA ports on
his web site.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GA-EFIS
> -----Original Message-----
> -->
>
> I have purchased the EFIS one for my RV-8 and talked to Greg
> at Sun n Fun about three things. If you have installed Vans
> Capacitance Fuel system, and purchased or plan on purchasing
> Eletronics International's module to operate them, Greg will
> have to add a special circuit on your EFIS board to make it
> work. The EI module puts out Pulsed AC or something and EFIS
> One looks for DC voltage as I understand it. Additionally,
> The NAV AID controller may not accept the GPS output of the
> EFIS one as is. Greg is checking into just what the NAV AID
> controller is looking for and determining if and what he may
> have to do to make EFIS one intergrate with NAV AID.
> Additionally, the EFIS one now has AOA. It requires an input
> like Perpitary Software's wing sensors.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell hub SB "227" |
Why is "Everyone with a Hartzell on an RV is affected by this SB"? I
read "A" models prior to 1997. I have a "B" less that one year old.
How am I affected?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Hartzell hub SB "227"
>
>
> > -->
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > I'm surprised too that nothing much has been said on this SB here.
> > Remember, this is a Service Bulletin, NOT AN AD. Everyone with a
> > Hartzell on an RV is affected by this SB.
>
>
> >Unless you have an A-suffix hub which you would get
> > replaced for free (until June) I wouldn't bother with it.
> I have two
> >Hartzells, one on my -6 that's affected and one on my F1. It would
> >cost me over $10,000 to have both hubs replaced. No-thank you> Bob
> >Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 290 hours F1 Rocket
> under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
In a message dated 04/16/2002 7:31:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
> I have a "B" less that one year old.
> How am I affected?
>
"B" hubs are the replacement hubs for the "A" hub and earlier.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Tail for sale |
Anybody want a RV-6 HS, VS, rudder, elevators, trim tab?
$300 OBO + Ship
They are complete except:
1. VS and HS only half riveted on for Canadian internal inspection
2. Fiberglass tips
Primed Zinc Chromate. Workmanship 7/10.
Get this thing out of my hair!
If there are no takers they are going to my nondestructive lab followed by
the destructive lab. Just thought I'd offer them out there first.
Steve
RV-7A
moved fuse to garage today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Mixture Cables for Bendix FI |
Stein,
I have the Bendix RSA on my O320 and had to fabricate a bracket out of steel
that bolts up between the sump and injector. In addition there was a problem
with the mixture arm on the injector body not clearing the fab airbox. I made
up a totally ugly arm to replace the original out of 2 pieces of angle
aluminum. I do not have a lot of confidence in the arm I made so I put it
aside hoping to have some sort revelation to solve the problem. That was
several months ago and the problem is still nagging me. I am sure other
people have run into this problem and maybe will post how they dealt with
it.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell hub SB "227" |
Understood.
So, the original statement "Everyone with a Hartzell on an RV is
affected by this SB" is a little too broad. Right?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 10:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell hub SB "227"
>
>
>
> In a message dated 04/16/2002 7:31:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
>
>
> > I have a "B" less that one year old.
> > How am I affected?
> >
>
> "B" hubs are the replacement hubs for the "A" hub and earlier.
>
> Jim Ayers
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Hose Clamps - Exhaust System Clamps |
In a message dated 4/16/2002 12:13:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pcondon(at)mitre.org writes:
> I was rather leery of using standard hardware store hose clamps for the
> exhaust system on my RV-4. I have heard of no in field failures of the
> hose clamps either....so.....Summit Racing has rather neat 3.99$ hose
> clamps that use a "T" bolt to draw the clamp together, made of
> stainless, and HD in construction. They resemble the clamps on the
> production aircraft, especially the turbo clamps used on turbo exhaust
> systems. These clamps clamp around the perimeter of the tube and provide
> a superior clamping action then the worm drive hose clamps.
The T bolt type are the ones I use and recommend for this critical fastening
task. They are also available from McMaster-Carr.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell hub SB "227" |
In a message dated 4/16/2002 5:20:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rsipp(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I have been quoted $1412 for the overhaul labor and the hub will be free.
> This price, I am told will include a complete overhaul including blade
> reconditioning and painting along with the normal dimensional and x-ray
> checks. The prop would be zero timed.
>
> While it seems premature to overhaul a 260 hour prop as mine is, it is
> approaching 6 calendar years old and like engines supposedly is susceptible
> to some deterioration with time alone. The way I see it, for the chance to
> get the new hub free and an overhaul it is worth doing.
>
I was told by Kevin Ryan at Hartzell that the clock is based on prop flying
hours, not on the shelf hours, meaning that if the documented prop first
flight occurred in February of 1998 (as in my case), that the free hub
exchange offer at overhaul remains open until 72 months have elapsed
(February of 2004 in my case).
I do light aerobatics, inspect the hub religiously every 50 hrs, have 510
total hrs on it and will have the overhaul done before 02/04. I was quoted
$1795 from Brian Sullivan in Hayward, CA to have it basically brought up to
new specs.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cmcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Manual elevator trim. |
I cant seem to get the required travel . The best I can get is 25 up and 22
down on tab. I have moved the clevis all the way in and moved the metal nut,
bracket further forward. No luck.
Any ideas
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark & Sabina Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Leveling Wing in Jig |
Van's instructions state that the wing structure should be temporarily
braced (presumably in the center of the aft spar) in order to level the
wing assembly in the jig.
Having done this, my question is what does Van mean by "temporarily?" Must
the brace stay in place until the wing construction is completed, or the
skins are riveted on, or what? In other words, when can I stop worrying
about a potentially sagging spar in the wing jig?
Thanks
Mark Gilbert
RV6A, Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 jig not needed |
I just completed the horizontal stab on my 7A and other than providing a
convenient way to support the stab for riveting, I saw no other purpose for
the jig.
The prepunched feature dictates trueness in every respect.
Therefore, I would say to build the jig, but don't get too concerned about
specific dimensions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....and ranting |
abo ut Sky-Te c....
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Mike thanks for your reply. Maybe I should spend the extra $100 and eat
the extra weight and get a B&C starter too....
Regarding the LSE timing, if you go to Klaus' website it clearly shows
how to set up the position of the magnets on the flywheel for the pickups
at 20 degrees before the normal timing position of the mags for a given
engine (so if the mags should be set to 25 deg BTDC, the LSE magnet
should be located at 25 + 20 = 45 deg BTDC). Then it states that the
position of the magnets should be retarded 5 degrees for any engine using
9:1 compression or greater. Maybe yours was already set up this way?
Did you do the installation or did someone else? What position are the
magnets located at?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A all-electric, dual LSE's, and lots of fiberglass.....
writes:
> We have double checked all timings and I am very accurate. There is
> no
> mention of retarding timing in my LSE paper work. I spoke with Klaus
> about
> my problem directly when I was trying to understand the failure. I
> asked if
> I could retard the start timing, and Klaus said no don't! very
> clearly. I
> verified and he would not gave a reason why I shouldn't. He did say,
> the LSE
> must be wired (12v and Gnd) directly to the battery, not down stream
> from
> the battery. He also pointed out that if the voltage to LSE drops
> below 7 to
> 10 volts during cranking, LSE could fire erroneously.
>
> I don't know the truth about SkyTec, could just be a lemon. I have
> suffered
> a very bad and expensive experience with the SkyTec starter and they
> have
> chosen to place responsibility entirely with me. I have heard many
> SkyTec
> installations with no problems and in my investigation have
> discovered what
> I consider a significant number of people having problems too. I
> sent my
> starter to SkyTec and they claim it is working properly after
> replacing the
> solenoid, I have no intention of using it. I have also looked at
> several
> SkyTec setups which seem to wear the ring gear at an angle, mine did
> too.
> The B&C is perfectly square. Will probably sell the SkyTec if the
> opportunity comes up.
>
> I can say the B&C at $100 more is worth the security to me. It
> works
> flawlessly.
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
FYI, just in case anyone else is interested, the Dynon unit (if/when it
ever becomes available) will have an encoder output to the transponder
eliminating the need for a separate encoder. Nice feature that I hope to
use....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit endless fiberglass....
--------------------------------------------------------
Mark,
No, the encoder will act as we noted before. Thank you for the heads up,
and we will clarify that on the website!
Thank you and have a great day.
Gillian C. Torode
Business Manager
Dynon Development Inc.
19501 144th Ave NE
Suite C-500
Woodinville, WA 98072
(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
-----Original Message-----
From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
Hi Gillian, just looking at your update FAQ's on your website and it has
the following:
What instruments/avionics will the EFIS-D10 connect to/communicate with?
The EFIS-D10, as presently specified and developed, is a
stand-alone instrument that does not communicate with
any other instruments or avionics. Future upgrades will
allow
the instrument to communicate with a second EFIS-D10
as well as future products from Dynon Development.
Communication with other manufacturer's products is still under
consideration.
Does this mean you've changed your previous plans to include an encoder
output which would interface with transponders? If not you might want to
clarify on the FAQ's....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff, starting wiring soon...
"Gillian Torode" on 11/12/2001 12:55:31 PM
cc:
Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
Mark,
Yes, the encoder output will come standard and connect to a (mode C)
transponder.
Thank you for your interest in our product.
Gillian C. Torode
Business Manager
Dynon Development Inc.
19501 144th Ave NE
Suite C-500
Woodinville, WA 98072
(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
-----Original Message-----
From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
Subject: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
Will the D-10 have a standard output with encoder data that can be
connected to a transponder? Does this feature cost extra?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Manual elevator trim. |
Ask Van's, but I think you're done. You will not need even as much
deflection as you have right now.
Steve Soule
N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I cant seem to get the required travel . The best I can get is 25 up and 22
down on tab. I have moved the clevis all the way in and moved the metal nut,
bracket further forward. No luck.
Any ideas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine choice |
> > Bob, the H2AD engine used on the C172 is usually a bargain if you are
> > thinking of a used engine. It is a good engine but has a bad
> > reputation!
>
> Per the list in Van's summary the H has many AD's and most parts do not
> interchange with the other O-320 engines.
>
Per my IA buddies, the H2AD is a fine engine that routinely makes it to TBO
in their company's flying school fleet. They both told me they'd buy one.
Granted, it had a bad start; but, the ADs on the H2AD fixed that. As for
the parts being different, I don't see the problem. I put back specific
parts called for in my O320 for that engine and would do the same for the
H2AD. I'd order H2AD specific parts because I don't experiment with my
engine, if I can help it. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leveling Wing in Jig |
Mark,
Make sure you use this "temporary" support until you have the skins all
drilled. At that point, you have locked in your alignment. I used a small
cheap hydraulic jack placed on a stand to level the spars. If you use a
jack, just make sure your main spar has no sag in it BEFORE you start
drilling skins because those jacks have a tendency to leak down.
After the skins are drilled, you can remove the lower support, but you might
want it back temporarily to get everything in alignment while you cleco the
skins back on.
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A
Fuselage
>From: Mark & Sabina Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Leveling Wing in Jig
>Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 21:51:59 -0700
>
>
>
>Van's instructions state that the wing structure should be temporarily
>braced (presumably in the center of the aft spar) in order to level the
>wing assembly in the jig.
>
>Having done this, my question is what does Van mean by "temporarily?" Must
>the brace stay in place until the wing construction is completed, or the
>skins are riveted on, or what? In other words, when can I stop worrying
>about a potentially sagging spar in the wing jig?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mark Gilbert
>RV6A, Sacramento
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim's correct about the reputation the H2AD has, it really isn't a bad
engine, however, one thing to look at is the replacement of rocker arms at
overhauls and there is a inherent cam and lifter spalling problem, aside
from that, a good engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears [mailto:sears(at)searnet.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine choice
> > Bob, the H2AD engine used on the C172 is usually a bargain if you are
> > thinking of a used engine. It is a good engine but has a bad
> > reputation!
>
> Per the list in Van's summary the H has many AD's and most parts do not
> interchange with the other O-320 engines.
>
Per my IA buddies, the H2AD is a fine engine that routinely makes it to TBO
in their company's flying school fleet. They both told me they'd buy one.
Granted, it had a bad start; but, the ADs on the H2AD fixed that. As for
the parts being different, I don't see the problem. I put back specific
parts called for in my O320 for that engine and would do the same for the
H2AD. I'd order H2AD specific parts because I don't experiment with my
engine, if I can help it. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | engine choice H2AD |
You might also need to modify the cowl. There's a RV-6A on the field at
Shelburne, Vermont, with the H-engine and it has two smallish bulges in the
cowl to accommodate some parts of the engine. I am not sure of the details.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Jim's correct about the reputation the H2AD has, it really isn't a bad
engine, however, one thing to look at is the replacement of rocker arms at
overhauls and there is a inherent cam and lifter spalling problem, aside
from that, a good engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leveling Wing in Jig |
use a piece of 1/2 in. threaded rod with 2 nuts thru the aileron pushrod
hole
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leveling Wing in Jig
>
> Mark,
>
> Make sure you use this "temporary" support until you have the skins all
> drilled. At that point, you have locked in your alignment. I used a
small
> cheap hydraulic jack placed on a stand to level the spars. If you use a
> jack, just make sure your main spar has no sag in it BEFORE you start
> drilling skins because those jacks have a tendency to leak down.
>
> After the skins are drilled, you can remove the lower support, but you
might
> want it back temporarily to get everything in alignment while you cleco
the
> skins back on.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis
> RV-6A
> Fuselage
>
> >From: Mark & Sabina Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Leveling Wing in Jig
> >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 21:51:59 -0700
> >
> >
> >
> >Van's instructions state that the wing structure should be temporarily
> >braced (presumably in the center of the aft spar) in order to level the
> >wing assembly in the jig.
> >
> >Having done this, my question is what does Van mean by "temporarily?"
Must
> >the brace stay in place until the wing construction is completed, or the
> >skins are riveted on, or what? In other words, when can I stop worrying
> >about a potentially sagging spar in the wing jig?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Mark Gilbert
> >RV6A, Sacramento
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine choice |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
One more .02 worth to consider. I am a fan of the H2AD engine, but have
recently learned that since some parts are quite different and some unique,
the Lycoming cost is more per each. Sorry I can't enumerate them. On the
other hand some have said you might be able to use auto parts on some of
these??
I think that most of us who have rented C-172s have flown behind these gems
and not known the difference.
DLW
> From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:05:53 -0400
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: engine choice
>
>
>
>>> Bob, the H2AD engine used on the C172 is usually a bargain if you are
>>> thinking of a used engine. It is a good engine but has a bad
>>> reputation!
>>
>> Per the list in Van's summary the H has many AD's and most parts do not
>> interchange with the other O-320 engines.
>>
>
> Per my IA buddies, the H2AD is a fine engine that routinely makes it to TBO
> in their company's flying school fleet. They both told me they'd buy one.
> Granted, it had a bad start; but, the ADs on the H2AD fixed that. As for
> the parts being different, I don't see the problem. I put back specific
> parts called for in my O320 for that engine and would do the same for the
> H2AD. I'd order H2AD specific parts because I don't experiment with my
> engine, if I can help it. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine choice H2AD |
My used H2AD with 1500 hours at new RV6 build/install....
Has has over 130 more trouble free hours added now.
Did need upper cowl clearance bulges.....
1 for forward fuel pump and
2nd (could be smaler one) for govenor pad so I made symetrically opposite.
Was installed with the big, single drive dual mag.
Was installed with a forward engine mounted mechanical fuel pump.
Used Van's normal 0-320 Stainless cross over exhaust.
Did use normal Van's 0-320 baffle kit as a good start with many metal bending/fitting
modifications.
Does have firewall mounted Van's Oil Cooler.
Did use Van's H2AD engine mount...$ 60 extra I think.
And Van'd Lord mounts...but 2 different bolts required...longer than the 2 longest
ones Van's kit came with.....
Has a new B&C starter (maybe to light???)
Used Van's Alternator with hole drilled-mounting modicications to mounting bracket.
Is swinging Sensenich Metal highest cruise pitch prop. w/2600 limit.
(caution about going wood...you might not like W&B...as RV6 will go aft CG easier....I
needed the weight out front..and frankly enjoy this prop 110%)
Has solid crank so C/S prop not an option.
OH and I got the older (reads: slower) wheel pants on too.
OK now can I brag...this baby scoots....my buddy with his low hour 160hp ... hot
wood propped, 2750 RPM revving baby ...well he has flown mine numerous times...has
flown in formation with mine..and won't get it up as fast, is always slower,
burning more fuel.
No regrets so far buying a cheaper 0-320 H2AD yet......
David McManmon
RV6 N58DM
NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell hub SB "227" |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Larry,
You're right, you're not affected, since you have the replacement hub. So my statement
was a little too broad, but it still is accurate to say a large majority
of RV owners with Hartzells are affected. I don't have the A-suffix hubs
on either of my props so I would be looking at at least $3500 parts and labor
for each prop, plus an allowance for Murphy (you know, that guy that manages to
always screw things up). I have a M2YR extended hub for the Rocket which is
more expensive than the standard hub.
Also, I was not aware that this SB became an AD recently until someone pointed it out to me (thanks Jim). You can look at the AD here: http://av-info.faa.gov/ad/PublishedADs/012308.html
They say the visual inspections aren't enough, but IMHO that's pretty subjective
because in the two instances of failures after visual inspections there could
have been a blind person doing the inspections for all we know. Or, it may
have been signed off in the logs if someone was covering their butt for not doing
the inspections after a blade seperation incident. Caveat emptor.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
F1 under const.
Why is "Everyone with a Hartzell on an RV is affected by this SB"? I
read "A" models prior to 1997. I have a "B" less that one year old.
How am I affected?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | engine choice H2AD |
If you are willing to let the cowl line run about 3/8 to 1/2 inch high you
do not need to modify it. Just trim the cowl to be about that much higher
in front than normal. There will be a slight break in the line from spinner
to cowl but I don't think that is very noticeable. Otherwise a relief bump
is needed for the fuel pump.
regards
allen
Allen Duberstein
Potomac Program Manager
503-712-2323
allen.duberstein(at)intel.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: engine choice H2AD
You might also need to modify the cowl. There's a RV-6A on the field at
Shelburne, Vermont, with the H-engine and it has two smallish bulges in the
cowl to accommodate some parts of the engine. I am not sure of the details.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Jim's correct about the reputation the H2AD has, it really isn't a bad
engine, however, one thing to look at is the replacement of rocker arms at
overhauls and there is a inherent cam and lifter spalling problem, aside
from that, a good engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Mixture Cables for Bendix FI |
Eustace Bohway (I hoped I spelled that correctly) sells a 3/4 in spacer that
goes between the injector body and the airbox. If you can not get one from
him, have a machine shop make one for you.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle/Mixture Cables for Bendix FI
>
> Stein,
> I have the Bendix RSA on my O320 and had to fabricate a bracket out of
steel
> that bolts up between the sump and injector. In addition there was a
problem
> with the mixture arm on the injector body not clearing the fab airbox. I
made
> up a totally ugly arm to replace the original out of 2 pieces of angle
> aluminum. I do not have a lot of confidence in the arm I made so I put it
> aside hoping to have some sort revelation to solve the problem. That was
> several months ago and the problem is still nagging me. I am sure other
> people have run into this problem and maybe will post how they dealt with
> it.
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Leveling Wing in Jig |
Question:
Must the brace stay in place until the wing construction is completed,
or the
skins are riveted on, or what? In other words, when can I stop worrying
about a potentially sagging spar in the wing jig?
Thanks
Mark Gilbert
RV6A, Sacramento
[Vince Himsl] My response: I used a closet wooden dowel with a bolt and
a nut (actually the aluminum blocks I made for the horizontal stabilizer
jig mount) to set and fine tune the alignment. I used it till I had
drilled and clecoed the skins on. I then used the clecoed skins to
maintain the alignment. My wing kit did not have the pre-punched ribs.
I might mention to be careful when you countersink the spar. I wound up
using a lot of 'oops' rivets on the first wing as my counter sinking
technique enlarged the holes beyond what I felt was tolerable. Take a
piece of aluminum the thickness of your skin and drill/dimple it. Use
that as a rough gage, but still be careful as I had a tendency to keep
countersinking till it was too late. I was so concerned about getting
the gage to fit flat on the spar that I forgot to pay attention to the
depth of the counter sunk hole.
I know now how to do it properly, but when I was there at that moment I
didn't. So hope this saves you and others (via the archives) a lot of
grief.
Also, I find that very slightly countersinking the dimpled holes on the
thicker skins prior to riveting helps eliminate the 'rivet head not
flush after riveting' problem.
Regards and good luck,
Vince Himsl
RV8 canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Leveling Wing in Jig |
For what it's worth, I plan to use a small screw-type jackstand. These things
are available at auto supply retailers (I got mine at Canadian Tire) and they
are quite cheap. I plan to attach it to the floor with liquid nail, same as I
did with the posts. With a screw jack I don't have to worry about hyraulic
leak-down, and I have my hydraulic jack available for other things.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leveling Wing in Jig |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I used and even cheaper method. Two 1x2's side by side clamped together with a
small C-clamp. Easy heigth adjustment is done by sliding the 1x2's in opposite
directions to get the required length and then clamp. In fact two of these per
wing work better than one support in the center. Mark a spot on the floor and
rear spar so that if you kick them out you can put them back without readjusting.
This works well, is dirt cheap and if your even the slightest bit carefull youll
never kick the supports out from under the wing. Worked for me.
Gary
Quoting Tedd McHenry :
>
> For what it's worth, I plan to use a small screw-type jackstand. These
> things
> are available at auto supply retailers (I got mine at Canadian Tire) and
> they
> are quite cheap. I plan to attach it to the floor with liquid nail,
> same as I
> did with the posts. With a screw jack I don't have to worry about
> hyraulic
> leak-down, and I have my hydraulic jack available for other things.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I would recommend Southwest Aero ( in WA. - NW go figure). John is a great guy
to do business with.
Southwest Aero
659 Strander blv
Tukwila, WA. 98188
John 206-575-8732
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....an |
d ranting abo ut Sky-Te c....
Thanks for your help,
You are referring to the reference mark which the engine runs at. There is
another reference which is used to start the engine. In the instructions
this mark is set at 0 deg TDC, and this start mark is ignored once the
engine starts. The mark you speak of is used to run the engine and is
ignored during start. I have two flywheels now, one is setup at 20 deg
according to the instructions and the other at 25 deg. You are correct about
Klaus's instructions with respect to compression and the 20 deg mark. In
checking my engine documentation I had determined I was to use the 25 mark
so I tried it and seem to get better performance and more efficient cruse.
My question to Krause was, Could I set the start mark 3 - 5 deg after TDC to
ensure against kick back at slow turning speeds? His answer was no!
Krause has contacted me with respect to this thread and I will discuss with
him when I return home.
I have a rather unique engine. Lyc AIO-360-A, an fully aerobatic dry sump
200HP. It is configured with helicopter pistons and rods and is quit stiff
to turn over. Probably a key contribution to my initial problem. B&C is
about 2 lbs more than SkyTec. It is a very nice starter but is costly. In my
case I am very satisfied.
Thanks again for your interest and help,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: LSE Ignition with Sky-Tec starter problems....and
ranting abo ut Sky-Te c....
Mike thanks for your reply. Maybe I should spend the extra $100 and eat
the extra weight and get a B&C starter too....
Regarding the LSE timing, if you go to Klaus' website it clearly shows
how to set up the position of the magnets on the flywheel for the pickups
at 20 degrees before the normal timing position of the mags for a given
engine (so if the mags should be set to 25 deg BTDC, the LSE magnet
should be located at 25 + 20 = 45 deg BTDC). Then it states that the
position of the magnets should be retarded 5 degrees for any engine using
9:1 compression or greater. Maybe yours was already set up this way?
Did you do the installation or did someone else? What position are the
magnets located at?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A all-electric, dual LSE's, and lots of fiberglass.....
writes:
> We have double checked all timings and I am very accurate. There is
> no
> mention of retarding timing in my LSE paper work. I spoke with Klaus
> about
> my problem directly when I was trying to understand the failure. I
> asked if
> I could retard the start timing, and Klaus said no don't! very
> clearly. I
> verified and he would not gave a reason why I shouldn't. He did say,
> the LSE
> must be wired (12v and Gnd) directly to the battery, not down stream
> from
> the battery. He also pointed out that if the voltage to LSE drops
> below 7 to
> 10 volts during cranking, LSE could fire erroneously.
>
> I don't know the truth about SkyTec, could just be a lemon. I have
> suffered
> a very bad and expensive experience with the SkyTec starter and they
> have
> chosen to place responsibility entirely with me. I have heard many
> SkyTec
> installations with no problems and in my investigation have
> discovered what
> I consider a significant number of people having problems too. I
> sent my
> starter to SkyTec and they claim it is working properly after
> replacing the
> solenoid, I have no intention of using it. I have also looked at
> several
> SkyTec setups which seem to wear the ring gear at an angle, mine did
> too.
> The B&C is perfectly square. Will probably sell the SkyTec if the
> opportunity comes up.
>
> I can say the B&C at $100 more is worth the security to me. It
> works
> flawlessly.
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"VansAirForce"
| Subject: | Scarfing wing skins |
Any tips on the best way to file the top outboard and inboard skins where they
overlap, to match the fuel tank (RV8)? Thanks in advance.
Al Grajek
RV8
Fuel tanks (still):)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ahman <ahmanrv4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
>
> I have the LightSpeed 20XL and they are just great. I tried a friends
> Bose X for a few hours in a Mooney, and believe it or not I got a
> headache. The Bose primarily depends on ANR and it seemed I could
> actually feel the "pressure" of the ANR when I put them on.
I noticed the same thing with the ANR Headsets, Inc. kit that I installed in
my old Sigtronics, but it works well. I tried on all of the LightSpeed ANR
models at S-n-F and did not notice the pressure at all. For what it's worth
I also did not notice enough difference between the 20 and 25XL to justify
the 25 over the 20 (using the RV-4 engine noise in their test chair). The
representative indicated that was most peoples opinion as well. There was a
noticeable difference between the 15 and 20 though.
Best regards,
Jim Ahman
RV-4, Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: engine choice H2AD |
I had an O-320H2AD in my previous airplane, a C-172. That engine flew
for over 2400 hours with absolutely no problems whatsoever. The only
thing that ever gave me a problem was the magneto, which had to be
rebuilt. I always used Aeroshell 15w-50, and changed the oil and filter
prior to 50 hours. Also, the plane did not sit around. It flew at
least a couple times a week. When I sold the plane with over 2400 hours
on the engine, it was still running great and had compressions in the
low 70's.
My experience: Properly used and maintained, the H2AD is a great engine.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | RE:RV-7 jig not needed |
Guys,
Don't think that just because the holes are prepunched that it won't go
together twisted. You'd be amazed at how twisted you can make an aileron
if you don't clamp it down solid when you rivet it. I don't understand
why folks don't want to use a jig. It doesn't have to be fancy - a wood
jig is better in some ways than a steel jig and is quite simple and
cheap to make. Anyway, you need some way to hold things in position to
assemble them so why not use something that will also hold the
alignment?
We worry ourselves sick about things that simply don't matter like
primer, and forget about something like alignment that is truly
important.
The bottom line is that with prepunched kits we know that the holes are
in the right spot but, that's not enough to make a wing truly straight.
Dave -6 So Cal, Tech Counseler, Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Help lifting fuse to airport |
Organised a truck to get fuse to the airport however wondering about where
to lift.
The truck has a crane. I was going to lift the front by the engine mount
somewhere. Does this seem ok???? I don't want to lift from fuse as is all
painted.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help lifting fuse to airport |
Hi Chris,
I'm glad to hear that the tab thingy worked out.
Yes you can lift the fuse by the engine mount. The best thing to use would
be a wide nylon cargo strap wrapped around the large diameter tube at the
top. A couple of layers of masking tape, electricians tape or duct tape
might help to protect the paint finish.
If you have wires or other engine gear in the way at the top, the smaller
tubes will carry the load. It would be better if you can pick up the weight
close to the welds.
I have not as yet bought radios or instruments etc. I was hoping that
Microair would have the flat pack units out on the market. But they seem to
be a ways down the road.
My first attempt at epoxying is setting up. I used the slow set hardener to
give myself plenty of time to work. Its not too warm down in the shop and
the setting up is sloooowly happening.
Good on ya!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Help lifting fuse to airport
>
> Organised a truck to get fuse to the airport however wondering about where
> to lift.
> The truck has a crane. I was going to lift the front by the engine mount
> somewhere. Does this seem ok???? I don't want to lift from fuse as is
all
> painted.
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help lifting fuse to airport |
I contracted with a company that tows cars. They had a flat bed truck with
tilt and winch. Basically, they tilted the bed and lowered the edge to the
ground. We rolled the fuse onto the bed (didn't need the winch). Tied it
down. Hit the road. Hangar was 12 miles away. Cost was $83. Not bad.
Good luck.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Help lifting fuse to airport
>
> Organised a truck to get fuse to the airport however wondering about where
> to lift.
> The truck has a crane. I was going to lift the front by the engine mount
> somewhere. Does this seem ok???? I don't want to lift from fuse as is
all
> painted.
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'gillian(at)dynondevelopment.com'"
| Subject: | Dynon Development |
Gillian,
I have this really lonely hole sitting in my inst panel, . Every time I fly
it calls out to me "Please don't let me spend enternity as an empty,
non-participating part of the panel that provides all - Oh please don't go
to Oshkosh without me"
So, no need to reply, just get on it and let us know when you want money.
;{)
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
The lightspeed QFR crosscountrys have this feature, is light weight, ANR,
thin headband, very quite and comfortable, had an adjustable mic gain for
noisy cockpits, and is only $275.00,
i like mine soo much i will buy another set for my co-pilot.
scott
tampa
final assembly for the final time
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Help lifting fuse to airport |
Use Four point lift.... the engine mount, the tail wheel mount, and
left/right gears.... Unless you wear your tail wheel in front, then ????
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Help lifting fuse to airport
>
> Organised a truck to get fuse to the airport however wondering about where
> to lift.
> The truck has a crane. I was going to lift the front by the engine mount
> somewhere. Does this seem ok???? I don't want to lift from fuse as is
all
> painted.
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help lifting fuse to airport |
Hi Chris & Susie:
I use strong straps and lift at the two top engine mount attachments at the
fire wall. You must be getting close.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Help lifting fuse to airport
>
> Organised a truck to get fuse to the airport however wondering about where
> to lift.
> The truck has a crane. I was going to lift the front by the engine mount
> somewhere. Does this seem ok???? I don't want to lift from fuse as is
all
> painted.
>
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LightSpeed 25XL Pireps? |
Earl & others,
I think it is the "XL" or maybe the "L" part of the designation that refers
to automatic shut-off. My 20XL's have that feature, and I am quite sure the
earlier 20 series did not.
I was prepared to buy the 25XL's but the Lightspeed representative insisted
that for an RV, the 20XL was the right one.
It will be awhile yet (years) before I test them in my own RV.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage & finish
> I have the 25XL and very pleased with it for over a year now. I think one
of the
> differences is the 25XL will shut off automatically if you forget to turn
it off
> does not drain the batteries. I don't believe the 20XL does this.do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Scarfing wing skins |
Any tips on the best way to file the top outboard and inboard skins
where they overlap, to match the fuel tank (RV8)? Thanks in advance.
Al Grajek
RV8
Fuel tanks (still):)
[Vince Himsl] I used the bastard file from Avery mainly as it allowed me
to maintain a straight line. File a little, put the tank on and check.
Repeat process until you are satisfied with result...pretty time
consuming and boring but my lines all match. There are probably faster
methods, but I have found that for a first time builder like me, slow
and patient is often better and ultimately quicker (you don't blast
yourself into reordering and redoing the part).
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Scarfing wing skins |
Al,
The first time I also used a file but after that I used a 5"disk sander (220
paper) at a slow speed. It really was quite controllable. But do be
careful it goes very fast.
Jack
RV8, wings
Any tips on the best way to file the top outboard and inboard skins
where they overlap, to match the fuel tank (RV8)? Thanks in advance.
Al Grajek
RV8
Fuel tanks (still):)
[Vince Himsl] I used the bastard file from Avery mainly as it allowed me
to maintain a straight line. File a little, put the tank on and check.
Repeat process until you are satisfied with result...pretty time
consuming and boring but my lines all match. There are probably faster
methods, but I have found that for a first time builder like me, slow
and patient is often better and ultimately quicker (you don't blast
yourself into reordering and redoing the part).
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Electrical Wire Question |
I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw between
6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on the correct
path:
1. I plan to use 16 gauge wires and insulate them (again) with 1/8 inch
shrink tubing all the way to the panel.
2. I am going to use one shrink tube to contain both wires. Or would 2
separate be overkill????
3. I will install one bay toward tip so my run should be 16 ft. Max (very
generous estimate).
In looking at the wire chart it appears I could even use 18 guage-although I
am new at this. It seems that I would be better off (safer) to use 16
gauge????
Thoughts guys???? Bob in Arkansas (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Wire Question |
Bob,
I used 14 gauge because although the chart might lead you to believe you
could use 16, keep in mind that your wire will likely be in a bundle and
thus not shed heat as fast. Somewhere there is a table that shows different
values (heavier) for wires in bundles. Also, your pitot heat will likely
draw even more current than you indicate on startup. Heck, the last think I
wanted to mess with was overheating wire so I errored on the heavier side
deliberately. The difference in weight is negligible, the difference in
peace of mind was significant (at least for me). :-)
Heat shrink shouldn't be necessary if you follow all the AC43.13 guidelines
for routing your wiring.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 154 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
>
> I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw
between
> 6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on the correct
> path:
>
> 1. I plan to use 16 gauge wires and insulate them (again) with 1/8 inch
> shrink tubing all the way to the panel.
>
> 2. I am going to use one shrink tube to contain both wires. Or would 2
> separate be overkill????
>
> 3. I will install one bay toward tip so my run should be 16 ft. Max (very
> generous estimate).
>
> In looking at the wire chart it appears I could even use 18 guage-although
I
> am new at this. It seems that I would be better off (safer) to use 16
> gauge????
>
> Thoughts guys???? Bob in Arkansas (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electrical Wire Question |
Use 14 gauge and be safe, also silver solder the connecter at
the Pitot tube if it has a solder termination.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw
between
6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on the correct
path:
1. I plan to use 16 gauge wires and insulate them (again) with 1/8 inch
shrink tubing all the way to the panel.
2. I am going to use one shrink tube to contain both wires. Or would 2
separate be overkill????
3. I will install one bay toward tip so my run should be 16 ft. Max
(very
generous estimate).
In looking at the wire chart it appears I could even use 18
guage-although I
am new at this. It seems that I would be better off (safer) to use 16
gauge????
Thoughts guys???? Bob in Arkansas (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | anywhere moving map, best place to get? |
Does anyone know the cheapest way to get the anywhere moving map? I don't
have the Ipaq handheld yet and I need the software and the receiver/antennae
and power cord. We are going to build a custom mount.
Thanks,
Paul
RV9-A QB almost ready for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Wire Question |
Hi Bob,
I did some limited testing on the current draw for the 5814 heated pitot
tube and you can see the graph and data at this link.
http://bmnellis.com/pitotcurrent.htm
Some others have already mentioned it, but I'd go with the 14 ga wire and
play it safe. Keep in mind that my data was obtained with the pitot tube
just sitting on the bench. A better process would have been to emerse the
pitot tube in a bucket of water to simulate the cooling effects of moist air
at 180mph. The peak current draw was approx 19 amps and stabilized at
around 9 amps.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
>
> I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw
between
> 6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on the correct
> path:
>
> 1. I plan to use 16 gauge wires and insulate them (again) with 1/8 inch
> shrink tubing all the way to the panel.
>
> 2. I am going to use one shrink tube to contain both wires. Or would 2
> separate be overkill????
>
> 3. I will install one bay toward tip so my run should be 16 ft. Max (very
> generous estimate).
>
> In looking at the wire chart it appears I could even use 18 guage-although
I
> am new at this. It seems that I would be better off (safer) to use 16
> gauge????
>
> Thoughts guys???? Bob in Arkansas (RV-6)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help lifting fuse to airport |
I am at the same stage. I just today packed a trailer to move my 6 to the
airport tomorrow. I have lifted my fuselage by the lifting eye on the engine
many times. I do think that if the wings are mounted lifting by the eye is
risky because of the additional weight. I have also lifted the engine mounted
fuselage by placing a rope just aft of the crankshaft flange.
Be careful to operate the crane smoohly. You will not want any bouncing up
and down going on.
Good luck to us both with the move!
Bill Griffin
Balto, MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anywhere moving map, best place to get? |
Paulbaird(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know the cheapest way to get the anywhere moving map? I don't
> have the Ipaq handheld yet and I need the software and the receiver/antennae
> and power cord. We are going to build a custom mount.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> RV9-A QB almost ready for paint
Paul, I have recently installed an Anywhere Map system; here are the
details of my installation:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
There is only one price for the Anywhere Map software as far as I know,
so you might as well buy it from Control Vision. However, I am not sure
what value the software will be to you until you have an iPAQ in hand!
:-)
There are several ways to go as far as the GPS receiver is concerned,
and my page will detail a couple of them.
Hope this helps,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Lesson of the day - eye protection |
I had a close call yesterday that I'd like to share with the list so
you can learn from my mistake. Those that can only learn from their
own mistakes can hit the delete key now :)
I was putting the hose end on a -10 stainless steel hose. I haven't
had great success using a vice to hold the fitting, as my vice tends
to mark it up pretty badly. I generally use two long box wrenches on
the top of my work bench. Worked great til yesterday. I was pushing
down very hard on the two wrenches, looking to get the fitting just a
bit tighter. I'm still not sure exactly what happened, but something
moved and the whole shebang jumped, flinging the other end of the
hose up towards my face. I jerked my head away, but the hose end on
the other end of the hose nailed me about 3/8 inch below my eyelid.
Lots of bleeding, and a good black eye. No damage to the eye, but it
was a pretty close call.
I have been very religious about wearing eye protection when
drilling, grinding, etc. Now I've come to realize that whenever you
are putting a lot of force on something, there is always a chance
that things will go wrong and that force will be redirected in a
seemingly random direction. I'll be wearing eye protection in the
future when I'm really getting into something. I'm also looking for
my old hockey gear to get that cup. :)
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FA: MA-4SPA carburator |
Hello,
I have a Marvel Shebler MA-4SPA carb for auction on ebay. If you're
interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1822732295
Also, I have a new, Christen manual fuel pump #844 at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1822739054
Thanks,
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Wire Question |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 IO-360 Alternate Air |
Anyone installed an alternate air source on an IO-360 in an RV-8 with Van's
"snorkel" induction? If so, how'd you do it and got any pix?
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REED SOMBERG" <mooniac(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | Hand held IPAQ 3670 |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
text/html
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air-Tec Starters & Alternators... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Just some FYI for those interested....I talked to Air-Tec in Florida
yesterday to learn more about their starters and alternators. Apparently
they have been been in business for some time catering especially to the
airboat market, but also a number of exp. aircraft. They have two
starters that work on Lycomings they call the model 1.0 and 1.4. They
cost $199. They are both Nippo Dienso starters with custom brackets
made to mount to a Lycoming. They use a solenoid to engage the starter
(not a Bendix drive). The starter motors are not permanent magnet like
Sky-Tec or Magnaflite use.....the advantage being that they are a bit
more efficient and easier on the battery, however, they are quite a bit
heavier. The more powerful 1.4 model which they recommend for the O-360
is 14 lbs, and the 1.0 model is 12 lbs. For me this is a big enough
weight penalty that I will go with the Sky-Tec instead (around 7 and a
half pounds for reference...). However if you're on a tight budget,
and/or don't mind having some extra weight up front (like some of you
RV-4 and -6 guys with wood props...) this might be a great way to go.
Sounds like the units have a good reputation for reliability that I wish
Sky-Tec could match.
Air-Tec also sells a 50 amp Mitsubishi alternator with brackets and a
regulator that includes OV protection for $350. Sounds like a pretty
reasonable deal. Total weight including the brackets and regulator is
11 lbs...not sure how this compares to the N.D. alternators a lot of guys
are running that are typically around 6-7 lbs for a 40 amp and 8-9 lbs
for a 60 amp.....but I think that's just the alternator and doesn't
include the brackets (?) or the regulator / relay / OV protection /etc.
Add it all up and it might come out to around 11 lbs like the Air-Tec
system.
Hope this helps somebody....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit....just finished cutting/bending/welding my control
sticks....happy with them now....
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Skytec Starter
Dear listers,
Mark Navratil wrote that for money's sake he will probably go with a
Sky-Tec. You all are ignoring a small starter manufacturer that caters
specificly to the kit plane market, Air-tec. I have one of their light
weight starters on my RV and it (combined with an odyssey bat) spins the
engine like crazy. (1 light speed ignition, no problems) The best part
is
that the Air-tec is built on some Jap auto starter (reliable) and only
costs
$200. The following is info from the Yeller Pages:
AIR-TEC INC (DICK WATERS) 800-366-4746 EXPERIMENTAL (NON-CERTIFIED)
ENGINES
AND AUTOMOTIVE STARTERS W/BRACKETS FOR LYCOMINGS
Don't fail to consider this guy. Light weight, great service, and 600+
hours of trouble free service on my RV.
Dare to spend less.
Don Mei
RV-4 - N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Interference - flap motor brace to tilt-up latching rod |
I'm in the process of fitting the latching assy on my RV-6 tilt-up, and have
run up against the 'interference' problem with the forward channel support
for the electric flap motor. Any suggestions? I know this is a well known
problem, so a reference to former messages in the archives would be great as
well.
I'm also looking for photos of the completed latch assembly for tilt-up 6's.
If you have any, could you please e-mail them to me off-list at
pblake(at)epix.net. Thanks and regards
Peter Blake
60 Beverly Drive
Kintnersville, PA 18930
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air-Tec Starters & Alternators... |
hi mark
i can tell you from experience that the small starter will spin the 0360 very
fast and will not drain the battery quickly. i can also tell you that the
starter is no way near 14lbs. i've seen the skyteck and the airteck and i
can't see any differance by looking at them. the altinator weighs about 6 lbs
amps out of it. so far the regulator charges my battery with all electric
gyros, lights , gauges, radios, autopilot, on, so in summary, i am very happy
with the products and the support from airteck.
not a paid endorsement, just 1 happy customer.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interference - flap motor brace to tilt-up latching rod |
peter
i made some spacers out of the same type of plastic as the flap bearings.
about 3/4 of an inch to place the canopy latch tube 3/4 inch forward. just
mount the spacers on the bulkhead between the brakets that hold the tube to
the bulkhead. if i'm not clear, let me now and i'll try and be more specific.
the latch wil still easily catch the tip up catches and pull it down tight.
i think sam buchannons web page has some good photos of the latch set up.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lesson of the day - eye protection |
Good advice. Sure glad you weren't hurt worse. I had the same problem with
using a vice and just discovered some vice jaw inserts that claim to solve
the problem. I found them at Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com while
browsing their Aeroquip fittings. It's p/n AER-FCM3661 for $16.95. I haven't
received my order yet but it's GOT to be better than the double wrench
trick.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K bought!
>
> I had a close call yesterday that I'd like to share with the list so
> you can learn from my mistake. Those that can only learn from their
> own mistakes can hit the delete key now :)
>
> I was putting the hose end on a -10 stainless steel hose. I haven't
> had great success using a vice to hold the fitting, as my vice tends
> to mark it up pretty badly. I generally use two long box wrenches on
> the top of my work bench. Worked great til yesterday. I was pushing
> down very hard on the two wrenches, looking to get the fitting just a
> bit tighter. I'm still not sure exactly what happened, but something
> moved and the whole shebang jumped, flinging the other end of the
> hose up towards my face. I jerked my head away, but the hose end on
> the other end of the hose nailed me about 3/8 inch below my eyelid.
> Lots of bleeding, and a good black eye. No damage to the eye, but it
> was a pretty close call.
>
> I have been very religious about wearing eye protection when
> drilling, grinding, etc. Now I've come to realize that whenever you
> are putting a lot of force on something, there is always a chance
> that things will go wrong and that force will be redirected in a
> seemingly random direction. I'll be wearing eye protection in the
> future when I'm really getting into something. I'm also looking for
> my old hockey gear to get that cup. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FA: MA-4SPA carburator, corrected links |
Hello,
The previous links were incorrect. Sorry for the repost.
I have a Marvel Shebler MA-4SPA carb for auction on ebay. If you're
interested:
Hello,
I have a Marvel Shebler MA-4SPA carb for auction on ebay. If you're
interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1822732295
Also, I have a new, Christen manual fuel pump #844 at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1822739054
Thanks,
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument Wiring Question |
I am getting ready to wire my IP this weekend. I have about 40 wires (22 gauge)
coming out of various instruments that I need to connect. I really don't want
to use 40 butt splices to connect them, but the wires are not long enough for
direct connections to their termination point. I know solder joints are not
generally accptable but should I consider using them here? I am looking for
any suggestions.
Of these wires, about 8 are power wires that terminate to the same breaker as I
have all the small gages on one breaker. I also have about 10 ground wires that
I would like to splice together in 2-3 groups then ground to my main ground
on the IP. I am looking for suggestions to best make all these connections.
Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring before the dreaded fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Wiring Question |
Mike,
We utilized DB-50, DB-25 & DB-9 connectors for our wiring.
Use the mil spec crimp on pins (not cheap about 20 cents ea if I remember)
but they are an extremely reliable connection.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: N8292W(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Instrument Wiring Question
>Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:05:08 -0400
>
>
>I am getting ready to wire my IP this weekend. I have about 40 wires (22
>gauge) coming out of various instruments that I need to connect. I really
>don't want to use 40 butt splices to connect them, but the wires are not
>long enough for direct connections to their termination point. I know
>solder joints are not generally accptable but should I consider using them
>here? I am looking for any suggestions.
>
>Of these wires, about 8 are power wires that terminate to the same breaker
>as I have all the small gages on one breaker. I also have about 10 ground
>wires that I would like to splice together in 2-3 groups then ground to my
>main ground on the IP. I am looking for suggestions to best make all these
>connections.
>Thanks in advance for any help!
>-Mike Kraus
>RV-4 wiring before the dreaded fiberglass
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I have the pitot tube in place plumbed to the bottom wing.
What do I do with the other end at the root rib?
Should I just leave a few inches of tubing there for now or have the
aluminum tube end at a fitting on the root rib?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Wiring Question |
Mike,
Solder could be acceptable in this application, depending on how you have
the wires secured. The reason solder joints are sometimes a problem is that
the solder can cause a stress point where it ends wicking up into the wire,
so that fatigue flexing can cause the wire to break. If the wires are
secured to something solid for a length past the joint, there should be no
problem.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8292W(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Wiring Question
>
> I am getting ready to wire my IP this weekend. I have about 40 wires (22
gauge) coming out of various instruments that I need to connect. I really
don't want to use 40 butt splices to connect them, but the wires are not
long enough for direct connections to their termination point. I know
solder joints are not generally accptable but should I consider using them
here? I am looking for any suggestions.
>
> Of these wires, about 8 are power wires that terminate to the same breaker
as I have all the small gages on one breaker. I also have about 10 ground
wires that I would like to splice together in 2-3 groups then ground to my
main ground on the IP. I am looking for suggestions to best make all these
connections.
> Thanks in advance for any help!
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring before the dreaded fiberglass
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Leave a few inches of tubing. You will eventually use a piece of rubber fuel
line to connect it to a tube coming out of the side of the fuselage for a
neat, simple flexible connection. Watch it when you mount your wings because
that stub of pitot tube is easy to bend. Sam Buchanan (I think) has a photo
on his most excellent web site.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I have the pitot tube in place plumbed to the bottom wing.
What do I do with the other end at the root rib?
Should I just leave a few inches of tubing there for now or have the
aluminum tube end at a fitting on the root rib?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | assembling hose ends, was: eye protection |
I had been clamping a box wrench in the vise, and using that to hold
the fitting. Works pretty good, except my vise is mounted on a small
square table on castors. You need to put enough torque on the larger
fittings that the table keeps wanting to spin. You soon need one
hand to keep the fitting from falling out of the box wrench that is
in the vice, another hand to tighten the other part of the fitting,
and a third hand to keep the table from taking off on you.
Anyway, for anyone who has a vice that is solidly mounted, clamping a
box wrench in the vise so the hose sits straight up and down works
well. I may even have been able to use some duct tape to keep the
fitting from falling out of the box wrench - just thought of that now.
Kevin Horton
>
>Good advice. Sure glad you weren't hurt worse. I had the same problem with
>using a vice and just discovered some vice jaw inserts that claim to solve
>the problem. I found them at Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com while
>browsing their Aeroquip fittings. It's p/n AER-FCM3661 for $16.95. I haven't
>received my order yet but it's GOT to be better than the double wrench
>trick.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
>Navion N5221K bought!
>
>>
>> I had a close call yesterday that I'd like to share with the list so
>> you can learn from my mistake. Those that can only learn from their
>> own mistakes can hit the delete key now :)
>>
>> I was putting the hose end on a -10 stainless steel hose. I haven't
>> had great success using a vice to hold the fitting, as my vice tends
>> to mark it up pretty badly. I generally use two long box wrenches on
>> the top of my work bench. Worked great til yesterday. I was pushing
>> down very hard on the two wrenches, looking to get the fitting just a
>> bit tighter. I'm still not sure exactly what happened, but something
>> moved and the whole shebang jumped, flinging the other end of the
>> hose up towards my face. I jerked my head away, but the hose end on
>> the other end of the hose nailed me about 3/8 inch below my eyelid.
>> Lots of bleeding, and a good black eye. No damage to the eye, but it
>> was a pretty close call.
>>
>> I have been very religious about wearing eye protection when
>> drilling, grinding, etc. Now I've come to realize that whenever you
>> are putting a lot of force on something, there is always a chance
>> that things will go wrong and that force will be redirected in a
>> seemingly random direction. I'll be wearing eye protection in the
>> future when I'm really getting into something. I'm also looking for
> > my old hockey gear to get that cup. :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Mark:
Last September I sent an email to: mailto:andair(at)andair.co.uk and received a
response within an hour from:
Cynthia Phillips
Operations and Finance Controller
Ms. Phillips promptly took care of the problem that I had with my
gascolator.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Has anybody ever been successful in contacting Andair by e-mail?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
Hi
Help! Is there a site where I can place an add for a fly-in to get RV's to
come? I would like to get a good group of RV's to show up at our Michigan
Upper Peninsula EAA chp439 fly-in. It will be on Sept. 21 rain day Sept. 22
at IMT. Our Pres. is a Lancair builder and he's always getting a few
lancair planes to show up.
We will be getting some war birds in, Ford tri-motor and others. Big Band
hanger dancing in the evening.
Scott Trask (RV7A builder--1/2 way there!)
IMT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Leveling |
On the pre-punched kits, the wing skeleton weighs very little (spars and
ribs) at the time it needs bracing and is easily supported by a cardboard
box or so. It still doesn't take much even when the skins or leading edge
are clecoed on. Of course, after the rivets are in, if you still need to
support the rear spar to make the wing straight, it doesn/t look good.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fwf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | N8WV Weighed In... |
I spent the day bolting, zipping, popping, screwing, and hanging everything
I had left to the -8A so I could get a weight and balance done... The only
thing I don't have installed is the Radio (Microair - weighs 14 oz.) and the
seats cushions (weight unknown)... The empty weight came in at 1005 lbs.
Here's my specs:
RV-8A
O-320-E3D 150 HP
Prestolite (stock heavy) Starter
Import Alternator
Edward Sterba 86x72 wood prop
Odyssey 625 battery
Night VFR panel - no gyros
Weights:
Right wheel: 371
Left wheel: 360
Nose wheel: 274
Total: 1005
Inspection scheduled for the 26th...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Wiring Question |
Why not a molex type connector with crimped pins?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
"RV6"
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fly-in |
Be sure to list it on the vansairforce website.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Trask" <sctrask(at)diisd.org>
Subject: RV6-List: Fly-in
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Scott Trask
>
> Hi
> Help! Is there a site where I can place an add for a fly-in to get RV's
to
> come? I would like to get a good group of RV's to show up at our Michigan
> Upper Peninsula EAA chp439 fly-in. It will be on Sept. 21 rain day Sept.
22
> at IMT. Our Pres. is a Lancair builder and he's always getting a few
> lancair planes to show up.
> We will be getting some war birds in, Ford tri-motor and others. Big
Band
> hanger dancing in the evening.
>
> Scott Trask (RV7A builder--1/2 way there!)
> IMT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | OSH Van's dinner date |
Is there a date for Van's dinner at OSH?
Is it on the same day each year?
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit planning (RV-6A) |
In a message dated 4/19/2002 8:42:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
> What is a typical stick displacement side-to-side for the standard
> height stick? This could be measured in degrees from vertical
> (preferred),
>
> Same question for fore/aft-
>
> What would be the most anyone would recommend for shortening the
> stick?
I posted a complete response on these subjects years ago, but it should still
be there in the archives.
-GV (N1GV RV-6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | verticle card compass |
my compass seems a bit sluggish. does anyone know what to fix to correct it????
thanks, john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: verticle card compass |
Is it sluggish in flight or when held out at arm's length in your driveway?
A vertical card compass needs vibration to make those tiny little gears
swing that big ol' card on just the power of magnetism. When I purchased
mine it seemed very inaccurate while moving it around in the living room,
but when installed on the glareshield of a running airplane it works great.
If it's sluggish in the airplane then there's something wrong with it.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> my compass seems a bit sluggish. does anyone know what to fix to corre> ct
it????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Builders near Oklahoma? |
I'm looking for a fellow RVer who can look at a Lycoming engine for me in
Washington, Oklahoma.
Or if you have any contacts there.
Thank you very much
Steve
RV-7A
Kingston, Ontario
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Lyc O-320 A1A, sump with aft mounted carb. |
I previously posted a message regarding the O-320-A1A engine I had and the
problem encountered due to the carb. being mounted so far back on the sump
that it and the filtered air box interfered with the engine mount and gear
leg and would be a difficult installation.
Here's the final information:
The sump I had originally was p/n 69369 and was characterized by the aft
mounted carb and the rear risers (intake tubes) having 2 bends in them.
I found I needed sump no. 74083 which has the carb more in the center and
the intake tubes are located farther forward also. It is called a straight
riser sump because the intake tubes have only one bend in them. There was no
problem swapping the sumps at all. The previous sump had an oil pickup tube
that extended down into the sump while the replacement sump does not use a
oil pickup tube but has an oil pickup passage molded into the bottom of the
sump. To utilize it, you remove the oil pickup tube and fabricate a small
plate and gasket to cover the hole. You then remove a plug in the case so
the pump can suck oil through the molded oil passage in the sump. The only
other consideration is that the previous risers were 1-1/2" diameter while
the new straight risers are 1-3/4" diameter so you need to get new hose
sections (p/n 69603) available at Spruce for about $4.50. You may also need
a new sump gasket.
This was an easy way to solve the problem except that locating a straight
riser sump took some doing.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | anywhere moving map, best place to get? |
Paul, I actually thought that the Anywhere map folks
http://www.anywheremap.com/anywhere/ quoted me a pretty good price on each
component of their system. They were willing to sell me the equipment
piece-meal or as a whole. Don't let the link give you the impression that
these are the only packages they will sell. I actually spoke with someone
from Control Vision. They didn't seem like they were making very much off
of the equipment themselves, mainly just the program. I actually looked at
various local retailers like Best Buy and Circuit City, but found that the
prices were all about the same.
I saw one of these babies in action a few months ago. What a great
invention!
SALES
Call: 800/292-1160 or 620/231-6647
sales(at)controlvision.com
Fax: 620-231-5816
Gee, I ought to be a sales agent for them. No actually I own the
www.bluemountainavionics.com EFIS one system which is even more phenomenal,
but I would put an anywheremap in my 1961 Comanche for positional and
situational awareness. Spent my whole wad on avionics for my RV-4 so "no
anywhere map for me this month".
Rick Blaes
RV-4 Builder/Military Pilot
Does anyone know the cheapest way to get the anywhere moving map? I don't
have the Ipaq handheld yet and I need the software and the receiver/antennae
and power cord. We are going to build a custom mount.
Thanks,
Paul
RV9-A QB almost ready for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Air-Tec Starters & Alternators... |
I'll second what Scott stated about the size. These babies are small.
Since my RV-4 still has the cowling off I'd be glad to remove the starter
and alt and weigh them, but I'm currently out of the country for a few more
days. I'll post a message with the weights later. As I told don mei
Off-line the other day, Dick Waters owner of Air-Tech Inc is great to work
with and he stands by his equipment. I purchesed my rebuilt O-360-A1A from
him and it come complete with the air-tech starter and alternator installed.
Just a beautiful engine.
Rick Blaes
RV-4 Builder
hi mark
i can tell you from experience that the small starter will spin the 0360
very
fast and will not drain the battery quickly. i can also tell you that the
starter is no way near 14lbs. i've seen the skyteck and the airteck and i
can't see any differance by looking at them. the altinator weighs about 6
lbs
amps out of it. so far the regulator charges my battery with all electric
gyros, lights , gauges, radios, autopilot, on, so in summary, i am very
happy
with the products and the support from airteck.
not a paid endorsement, just 1 happy customer.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 39 ASEW/E32/AC1 <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV-8 IO-360 Alternate Air |
When you say the snorkel induction is that the FAB 360 filter box? I just
completed my installation of the Fab 360 on an O-360-A1A with Airflow
Performance Fuel Injection system. I'll be happy to discuss it with you if
this the box your installing.
Rick Blaes
RV-4 Builder
-----Original Message-----
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com [mailto:Rv8don(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 IO-360 Alternate Air
Anyone installed an alternate air source on an IO-360 in an RV-8 with Van's
"snorkel" induction? If so, how'd you do it and got any pix?
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Can I really do this ....? |
I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net> |
One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Can I really do this ....? |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian's Mail
> Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 6:35 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of
these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
[Alex Peterson] Oh, how vividly I recall the exact same feeling, only in
my case it was not preview plans, it was 60+ D sized drawings. That was
over 8 years ago, and last year I finished the project. It is important
to look at these projects as a series of little projects. Put the plans
away, get out only the drawing you need to use, and chug ahead. Further
down the project you'll need to look at multiple drawings at once, but
not early on.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 134 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
Hi Brian,
That's a really good question (and a common one by the way). The best
article that ever read on that answers it was written by the guy who builds
Van's protypes, Scott McDaniels. You read his article by going here:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/AnRVcanIbuildone.htm
Best Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
You can do this...heck there are 2,800+ RVs flying and many of them, if not
most were the non-prepunched variety...forget about matched hole! Yes, you
can do this. Here's what you need to get this done:
1. Patience-You'll make mistakes, even if you follow the instructions to
the letter...because the instructions aren't perfect either. When you make
a mistake, you either fix it or replace the part...it's only aluminum and
Van's has plenty of spares.
2. Time-Unless you're opting for a lot of builder's assistance or are
planning to work full time on this, it will take you years to finish the
project. It may only take you 2 years or it can take 10 years, so get used
to the idea that you won't be flying it in 6 months.
3. Us-There's no substitute for having contact with other builders here on
the RV List and at the airport. When I started my project back in the 1900s
(1999), I worked on it by myself, but I asked a lot of stupid questions here
on the List. And, don't let me forget about the archive here on the List.
Almost any subject has a compendium on information in this archive.
Lots of us aren't professional A&P mechanics or experienced gear-heads...I'm
a finance/computer type and somehow learned how to operate a rivet gun. So,
yes, you can do it...good luck!
Mark Dickens
Highlands Ranch, CO
-8 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-320 |
Yes...I'd contact Sue Gregor at AeroSport Power (www.aerosportpower.com) and
ask her if you can get the higher compression pistons on a 320 and what they
add to the HP. I asked this question on the new XP-360 and she replied that
the 9.2 pistons added about 5% (9 HP).
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 vs O-320
>
> One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
> over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
> ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: IO-360 vs O-320 |
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Brian's Mail"
>
>One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
>over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
>ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
>
OK, I'm confused. Which engines are you talking about, and whose prices?
The last Van's catalog I saw had the following engines:
engine hp price weight
O-320-D1A 160 20225 255 (including ignition, but no other accessories)
O-360-A1A 180 21850 258 (no ignition, or any other accessories)
IO-360-M1B 180 26995 ?? (IO-360-M1A weighs 279
IO-360-A1B6 200 31300 302 (no ignition, or any other accessories)
The weights are from the FAA Type Certicate Data Sheets. Note that
the weight for the O-320 includes the mags, but the other models do
not.
So, if you are comparing the O-320 against the IO-360 A series, not
only do you get 40 more hp, but you get a lot more weight for your
money. If you compare the O-320 against the O-360, the price of the
extra 20 hp seems pretty cheap. The O-320 costs $126/hp, the O-360
is $121/hp. And the IO-360 A series will cost you $156/hp. The O-360
is a very popular option, for a lot of good reasons. I was planning
on an O-360 converted to fuel injection until I found an overhauled
IO-360-A1B6 at a very attractive price.
Not sure what the attraction of the IO-360-M1B is, as it isn't listed
in the copy of the TCDS I've got. Probably similar to the M1A which
has a forward facing fuel injector, which may let you use the smooth
bottom cowl (no induction inlet below the spinner).
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
| From: | Joe D Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
About six years ago my then husband to be came to me with a little piece
of metal that he called a rivet and said "honey, someday this will grow
up to be a really fast plane". I patted him on the head and went back to
making my quilt. Moral of the story, one rivet at a time and you get a
plane. One stitch at a time and you get a quilt. Put the two together,
and you get married, the new wife learns to fly and you take the quilt
and go flying.
Penni
RV6-A cp
Do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
So I take from this post that the bird is in the nest??? How's it going?
Flying soon? Can I have a ride?
Let me know when you will be there, and where "there" is and I'll stop by.
Might even bring beer.
Later,
Keith
>
> I contracted with a company that tows cars. They had a flat bed truck
with
> tilt and winch. Basically, they tilted the bed and lowered the edge to
the
> ground. We rolled the fuse onto the bed (didn't need the winch). Tied it
> down. Hit the road. Hangar was 12 miles away. Cost was $83. Not bad.
> Good luck.
> Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
Brian,
While building one of these planes is certainly NOT to be undertaken
lightly, it can be done. I does take perseverance and patience. When people
ask me about I like to say it takes three Ps: perseverance, patience, and
planning.
I've made some overall comments on this sort of thing on my web site...
www.rv-8.com. Look on the "About the project" page.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 154 hrs, back cover Van's 2002 calender
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Hose Clamps - Exhaust System Clamps |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jscabe(at)juno.com> |
Try a motorcycle store. Narrow hose calmps are used to attach motorcycle
fairings to the morotcycle fork.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Odyssey battery price |
FYI
I just bought an Odyssey PC 680MJ (metal jacket) battery at, what I think is
a good price, and I thought I would pass along the information. I got it
online at for 95.95 + s&h. The same battery without
the metal jacket is 85.95.
Bob Trumpfheller - with new e-mail address for the list (got spammed off the
other one)
Western Colorado
RV7A QB - N67BT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-320 |
Brian's Mail wrote:
>
>
> One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
> over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
> ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
>
The 320 will be either 150hp or 160hp depending on
compression. The 200hp 360 is higher compression, is
injected, & has an 'angle valve' head (read better
breathing) & weighs more than than the 180hp 360. It is a
more efficient engine but you'll have to make the call on
whether it's worth $10k to you.
I like fuel injection & never had a problem with hot starts
with the IO360/200hp I flew, but others tell a different
story. The injected engines are usually more fuel efficient
than the carburated models.
I've flown both a carb. 180hp & injected angle valve 200hp &
they seem to burn about the same amount of fuel with the
same MP & RPM settings, which means that you are getting a
little extra cruise power for 'free.'
If you are willing to go the overhaul route, some of the
rebuild shops can give you a higher compression
'blueprinted' parallel valve 360 with almost 200hp.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Tip up canopy roll bar |
Peter,
I've built my roll cage and found that it doesn't fit properly - F-362 brace
seems to be about 3/4 inch too long. I layed out the part on Intellicad CAD
software and the F-632 shows to be only about 1/16 too long - but is 9/16
too high where it mounts perpendicular to the F-631 roll bar. I'm going to
submit my CAD drawings and analysis t Van's and request a plans change to
mount the F-632 9/16 lower.than the 1/4 they call out. My only option now
is to take off 9/16 from bottom of each "foot" of F-631.
I don't mind that - will cut my fontal area a bit (canopy will be 9/16 inch
lower on top) so I should go faster. I'm 6'4 but don't think headroom is a
problem - there is a lot of cushion stuff under me to get my head up near
the canopy - which I can reduce in ht and fit OK.
See any problem with this? I understand that I can make the F-631A canopy
rear frame shorter to match the roll cage.
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Wire Question (lheated pitot tube) |
AeroElectric Bob,
On the RV-list, Mike Nellis posted his data on "temp vs time" of a 5814
heated pitot tube. In his web document he expressed concern about the 425
deg F temp of the probe sitting on the bench in still air. The 20 amp peak
inrush and stabilized 9 amp current draw seem normal from what I remember
others saying.
Any comments?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I did some limited testing on the current draw for the 5814 heated pitot
> tube and you can see the graph and data at this link.
> http://bmnellis.com/pitotcurrent.htm
>
> Some others have already mentioned it, but I'd go with the 14 ga wire and
> play it safe. Keep in mind that my data was obtained with the pitot tube
> just sitting on the bench. A better process would have been to emerse the
> pitot tube in a bucket of water to simulate the cooling effects of moist
air
> at 180mph. The peak current draw was approx 19 amps and stabilized at
> around 9 amps.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Georgetown, TX
> Waiting to start Fuselage
> RV6 N699BM Reserved
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
>
>
> >
> > I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw
> between
> > 6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on the correct
> > path:
> >
> > 1. I plan to use 16 gauge wires and insulate them (again) with 1/8 inch
> > shrink tubing all the way to the panel.
> >
> > 2. I am going to use one shrink tube to contain both wires. Or would 2
> > separate be overkill????
> >
> > 3. I will install one bay toward tip so my run should be 16 ft. Max
(very
> > generous estimate).
> >
> > In looking at the wire chart it appears I could even use 18
guage-although
> I
> > am new at this. It seems that I would be better off (safer) to use 16
> > gauge????
> >
> > Thoughts guys???? Bob in Arkansas (RV-6)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
Hi Brian,
My answer to your question is yes we can do this. I say "we" can do this
because:
There have been times in the last five years that I felt quite alone in my
endeavor to build an aircraft and learn how to fly it. Such as those times
when I made a blunder and drilled wrong holes or cut too much off or bent
something the wrong way because the drawing was upside down(I should have
turned it around). Yesterday I mixed some Epoxy wrong, that cost a few hours
of extra time to make things right!.
Get thereitis can happen in the shop as well as in the air. Some times I
made the mistreak of letting myself become too goal oriented. One night
while tired and still hard at it at around 3:00 am I drilled the fuel tanks
before they where ready to be drilled. I got up the next morning and ordered
all new left tank ribs and the rear baffle.
There are most often, other builders in or near your area that will be happy
to accept visitors. They will usually willing to lend a tool, an idea, or
drop by and pitch in when the going gets a bit tough.
There have been a large number of times that just reading this RV-list from
day to day that I have found direct information or helpful clues for the job
at hand or some stage of construction yet to come up.
The RV-list archives are a resource that I have used often with success.
The local airstrip is a good place to find some professional assistance. The
RV series of aircraft have become better known of late and often local
aircraft mechanics and engineers will share advise and expertise.
The EAA Stateside and the RAA in Canada are good resources for assistance,
advise etc.
Just in case you have some strange reason to want to go to the actual
source; On Van's web site there is contact information phone numbers, fax
numbers, and email addresses that will put you in direct contact with RV
heaven.
Van's website also has links that will lead you to any and all the resources
for building and flying that you will ever need.
Since deciding to forego the generally accepted sanity and deciding to build
"an airplane" I have met dozens of people that I would never have had the
pleasure of knowing.
I have learned lots about a lot of stuff and gotten to know a little more
about me.
When all is said and done, should you decide to throw caution to the wind
and cut that check. You will not ever really be alone.
Good flights and greased landings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
Brian:
Jim had an excellent post. I too often feel very alone in the building
process, being in the Great White Nort of Wisconsin. I have few if any
fellow RVers near me.
But as Jim said, you have literally hundreds of RVers at your finger-tips
via the internet. Yes, you WILL make mistakes on your project. It is
similar to the saying that there are pilots who have ground-looped a
taildragger and those that will.
Vans cleverly sets up the kits so that you are working on smaller, less
expensive parts to replace so that you learn the ropes before you tackle
larger things like the wings or fuse. So if, and when you do make a
mistake, it is not the end of the world. Parts are just an internet click
away from you.
I have found that as I progress through the project, I tend to educate
myself on the task at hand. This way, I am not overwhelmed by the enormity
of it all.
Take it one step at a time, and keep your eyes on the prize. You will find
that the journey toward owning an RV can be rewarding in itself.
Email me direct if you need any other info/advice. Us rivet smashers need
to stick together.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse (skeleton almost ready to rivet)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> My answer to your question is yes we can do this. I say "we" can do this
> because:
>
> There have been times in the last five years that I felt quite alone in my
> endeavor to build an aircraft and learn how to fly it. Such as those times
> when I made a blunder and drilled wrong holes or cut too much off or bent
> something the wrong way because the drawing was upside down(I should have
> turned it around). Yesterday I mixed some Epoxy wrong, that cost a few
hours
> of extra time to make things right!.
> Get thereitis can happen in the shop as well as in the air. Some times I
> made the mistreak of letting myself become too goal oriented. One night
> while tired and still hard at it at around 3:00 am I drilled the fuel
tanks
> before they where ready to be drilled. I got up the next morning and
ordered
> all new left tank ribs and the rear baffle.
>
> There are most often, other builders in or near your area that will be
happy
> to accept visitors. They will usually willing to lend a tool, an idea, or
> drop by and pitch in when the going gets a bit tough.
>
> There have been a large number of times that just reading this RV-list
from
> day to day that I have found direct information or helpful clues for the
job
> at hand or some stage of construction yet to come up.
>
> The RV-list archives are a resource that I have used often with success.
>
> The local airstrip is a good place to find some professional assistance.
The
> RV series of aircraft have become better known of late and often local
> aircraft mechanics and engineers will share advise and expertise.
>
> The EAA Stateside and the RAA in Canada are good resources for assistance,
> advise etc.
>
> Just in case you have some strange reason to want to go to the actual
> source; On Van's web site there is contact information phone numbers, fax
> numbers, and email addresses that will put you in direct contact with RV
> heaven.
> Van's website also has links that will lead you to any and all the
resources
> for building and flying that you will ever need.
>
> Since deciding to forego the generally accepted sanity and deciding to
build
> "an airplane" I have met dozens of people that I would never have had the
> pleasure of knowing.
> I have learned lots about a lot of stuff and gotten to know a little more
> about me.
>
> When all is said and done, should you decide to throw caution to the wind
> and cut that check. You will not ever really be alone.
>
> Good flights and greased landings
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Can I really do this ....?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
Yup it's worth it. Just order the tail kit and see how easy it is.
Greg
rv8 n89gm, 130 TT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian's Mail
Subject: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....?
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Brian's Mail"
I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: IO-360 vs O-320 |
you must be looking at the fuel injected o-360? When I got my new 360 from
vans in 1999 it was only 2 or 3K more than the 320. The fuel injected 360
version was way more.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian's Mail
Subject: RV8-List: IO-360 vs O-320
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Brian's Mail"
One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Re: Electrical Wire Question (heated pitot |
tube)
Fwd'g this replay from Aeroelectric-list to the RV-list - interesting
additional info from Bob Nuckolls.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Electrical Wire Question (lheated pitot
tube)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> >
> >
> >AeroElectric Bob,
> >
> >On the RV-list, Mike Nellis posted his data on "temp vs time" of a 5814
> >heated pitot tube. In his web document he expressed concern about the
425
> >deg F temp of the probe sitting on the bench in still air. The 20 amp
peak
> >inrush and stabilized 9 amp current draw seem normal from what I remember
> >others saying.
>
> Yup, those critters do run hot . . . I'm doing work on pitot heaters
> on the Beechjet right now and I've measured tube temperatures in
> excess of 220F at altitude, 320Kts and -50 C OAT. Of course, the
> problem here is the rarified air that doesn't cool things very well.
> This is one of several cases where things on airplanes can get hotter
> as you go up in altitude in spite of the very cold ambient
temperatures.
>
> Not to worry about the high temps while testing on the bench. We
> do this all the time at RAC on production tubes. These critters
> are assembled with silver braze that doesn't flow until straw-
> yellow heat . . . a hell-of-a-lot hotter than 425F!
>
>
> >Any comments?
>
>
> Let's look at the post . . .
>
> >David Carter
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
> >To: ; "Bob Paulo"
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical Wire Question
> >
> > > >
> > > > I am in the process of installing a heated pitot tube that will draw
> > > > between 6.5 to 8 amps. Here are my intentions and tell me if I am on
> > the correct
> > > > path:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Jack Roush NASCAR team owner crash today |
According to the NASCAR web site, Jack Roush , team owner, had a bad
crash today in an experimental Aircam.
Site below for info.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
http://www.nascar.com/2002/news/headlines/wc/04/20/roush_crash/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] N8WV Weighed In... |
The gear leg fairings and wheel pants were setting on the wings and cowl
directly above where they will eventually be, and the ELT was
installed...
BTW... I weighed it WITHOUT the gear leg fairing and wheel pants and it
came in at 996 lbs...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary & Carolyn Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)bewellnet.com]
Subject: Re: [rv8list] N8WV Weighed In...
Hey Bill, Nice light plane. I wonder too if you forgot something. You
got the gear leg fairings and wheelpants on? Elt installed ...
Gary
Randy Lervold wrote:
> Bill, you might win the award - that's the lightest RV-8 I've ever
heard of! Granted, O-320 with wood prop, but that's still pretty light.
Sure you're not forgetting anything else? ;-)
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill VonDane
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com ; Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com ;
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 5:57 PM
> Subject: [rv8list] N8WV Weighed In...
>
> I spent the day bolting, zipping, popping, screwing, and hanging
everything
> I had left to the -8A so I could get a weight and balance done...
The only
> thing I don't have installed is the Radio (Microair - weighs 14 oz.)
and the
> seats cushions (weight unknown)... The empty weight came in at 1005
lbs.
> Here's my specs:
>
> RV-8A
> O-320-E3D 150 HP
> Prestolite (stock heavy) Starter
> Import Alternator
> Edward Sterba 86x72 wood prop
> Odyssey 625 battery
> Night VFR panel - no gyros
>
> Weights:
> Right wheel: 371
> Left wheel: 360
> Nose wheel: 274
> Total: 1005
>
> Inspection scheduled for the 26th...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Can I really do this...? |
I ordered the preview plans two years ago and wondered if I could do it
too. In March this year I received my tail kit and as of today I am
nearing completion of the horizontal stabalizer. I have found so far
that all it takes is a lot of reading the instructions several times,
staring at the drawings, and mentally fitting the parts together before
you actually do it. Just getting everything ready for riveting is the
hard part. the riveting is the easy part. March 1st this year I
attended the Sportaire workshop in Oshkosh for RV assembly. I think
that gave be the confidence that I could do it. I think if you try it
you will like it. I sure do!
Jim Adams
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wx3o <wx3o(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
Brian,
You can eat the elephant one bite at a time. That is what makes the RVs
such a good value. The detailed directions are better than about anything
else out there.
We all mess up a piece or two with a slip of the rivet gun, but it is easy
to get a replacement part and keep on building.
Best Regards,
Mark Julicher
RV-8 Tail feathers
Taylorcraft BC-12, flying
Brian's Mail wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Brian's Mail"
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Go for it. You will do it one sheet at a time.
Cecil
writes:
>
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed
> when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of
> these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Hoses |
I have an O-360-A1A Lycoming engine I am using in a RV-6A and I am
trying to hook up the oil cooler. I haven't been able to figure out
which fittings on the accessory case to use. I also have a spin on oil
filter adapter installed.
1. There is a fitting just below the Tach drive and oil breather which
has a plug in it. Acording to the manuals this seems to be the oil
cooler bypass port.
2. Another fitting to the left of it facing aft which I think is the oil
return.
3. And a third fitting in the center of the case which I think is the
pressure port from the oil pump.
My question is which two fittings should I run to my oil cooler?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Wiring Question |
N8292W(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I am getting ready to wire my IP this weekend. I have about 40 wires (22 gauge)
coming out of various instruments that I need to connect. I really don't want
to use 40 butt splices to connect them, but the wires are not long enough
for direct connections to their termination point. I know solder joints are not
generally accptable but should I consider using them here? I am looking for
any suggestions.
>
> Of these wires, about 8 are power wires that terminate to the same breaker as
I have all the small gages on one breaker. I also have about 10 ground wires
that I would like to splice together in 2-3 groups then ground to my main ground
on the IP. I am looking for suggestions to best make all these connections.
> Thanks in advance for any help!
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring before the dreaded fiberglass
>
Mike,
In my various former lives I have worked as an electronics
tech on everything from CD players to concert sound systems
to big, heavy use, high vibration industrial equipment. I
haven't published any books, but I do have some background
on which to draw.
The myth of unacceptability of solder connections is one
that dies hard, but it's still a myth without foundation.
I know that 'There Are 6 Million Stories in the Naked
(Aircraft) City' (who is old enough to get *that* TV
reference?)about
solder joints failing because solder wicks up the insulated
wire. Would you like to hear a few million about failed
crimp connections?
The choice of connection method should be made based on what
you need in that particular situation, not 'solder vs
crimp.'
Consider that a crimped connection has rather intense stress
risers at each crimp, and less severe ones where the plastic
insulator stops. Any unsupported connection, whether it's
solder or crimp or bare wire under a barrier strip, will
eventually break if the wire is unsupported & allowed to
move relative to the termination point.
If you just need to extend the wires & that point will never
need to be 'opened' again, solder & shrink wrap is by far
the lightest, lowest bulk, and in my opinion, the most
reliable connection you can use. Just be sure you support
the wires on both sides of the joint so that they don't flex
in that area. This would need to be done if you used butt
splices also, but you would have a lot more weight to
support.
If you foresee the need to break the wires at some point in
the future, then fast-ons, barrier strips, etc. might make
more sense.
I hope this makes sense. It's a little late for me to be
writing (or even reading).
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
I've sold my RV-2+2 (BD-4) & I'm officially searching for
another RV. A flying -6 would be acceptable if unbelievably
inexpensive, realism adjusts my expectations downward to
'project' level.
Do you have a -6 project out there at a significant savings
relative to a new -7 kit?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | RE: [VAF Mailing List] Re : N8WV Weigh In |
Yeah.....Sorry about that, It's a 68x72 and the other day I was getting
2310 static @ 6900'...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: oldsfolks [mailto:Oldsfolks(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Re : N8WV Weigh In
Bill;
I looked at your building site and found the prop info. You had 86 X
72 on here but 68 X 72 on your site . That 86 X 72 really threw me !
I couldn't imagine 150 HP turning that much prop.
Sounds like Ed Sturba does a good job. He's been around a long time ,
I remember the name from the '80's when we built our first RV-4.
Happy Flyin',
Bob Olds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jack Roush NASCAR team owner crash today |
There was a short take on the local news in Charlotte, NC this morning. Jack
was
flying an aircam experimental when he hit a power line about 75 ft above a
lake.
This caused the aircam to go into the lake nose first according to the
newscaster.
The gentleman who pulled Jack out said he had to dive three times before he
could get Jack out. He pulled Jack to the surface and held him by the neck
with
one arm and held onto the wing with the other arm. Jack was not breathing and
he gave cpr till he began breathing and help arrived.
Earl RV4
barry pote wrote:
>
> According to the NASCAR web site, Jack Roush , team owner, had a bad
> crash today in an experimental Aircam.
> Site below for info.
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
> http://www.nascar.com/2002/news/headlines/wc/04/20/roush_crash/index.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Hoses |
In a message dated 4/20/2002 8:10:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6apjb(at)attbi.com writes:
> I have an O-360-A1A Lycoming engine I am using in a RV-6A and I am
> trying to hook up the oil cooler. I haven't been able to figure out
> which fittings on the accessory case to use. I also have a spin on oil
> filter adapter installed.
>
> 1. There is a fitting just below the Tach drive and oil breather which
> has a plug in it. According to the manuals this seems to be the oil
> cooler bypass port.
>
> 2. Another fitting to the left of it facing aft which I think is the oil
> return.
>
> 3. And a third fitting in the center of the case which I think is the
> pressure port from the oil pump.
>
> My question is which two fittings should I run to my oil cooler?
>
The 3/8"NPT port just below and to the right of the oil filter is the output
port from the engine which connects via a -8 (1/2") sized hose to the lower
input of the oil cooler.
The top output of the oil cooler connects via a -8 (1/2") sized hose to the
return 3/8"NPT port just below and to the left of the crankcase breather
fitting.
All of the other info regarding proper fittings, hoses and mounting of the
cooler is in the archives.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:First custmer built 7 flying |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Hoses |
Hi Pete:
If you can give me a fax # I will fax you a installation drawing which
details all of the connections on the rear of the engine.
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Hoses
>
> I have an O-360-A1A Lycoming engine I am using in a RV-6A and I am
> trying to hook up the oil cooler. I haven't been able to figure out
> which fittings on the accessory case to use. I also have a spin on oil
> filter adapter installed.
>
> 1. There is a fitting just below the Tach drive and oil breather which
> has a plug in it. Acording to the manuals this seems to be the oil
> cooler bypass port.
>
> 2. Another fitting to the left of it facing aft which I think is the oil
> return.
>
> 3. And a third fitting in the center of the case which I think is the
> pressure port from the oil pump.
>
> My question is which two fittings should I run to my oil cooler?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <rv6aflyr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Interference -flap motor brace to tilt-up latching rod |
Peter,
I solved this by using a 1/4" aluminum spacer between the upper forward
support channel attach angle and the support channel. This moved the
channel back and away from the latch rod far enough that it does not
interfere.
This does not change the latch mechanism alignment as would spacing the
latch rod forward.
Les Williams/RV6A 24LW
From: "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net>
Subject: RV-List: Interference - flap motor brace to tilt-up latching rod
I'm in the process of fitting the latching assy on my RV-6 tilt-up, and have
run up against the 'interference' problem with the forward channel support
for the electric flap motor. Any suggestions? I know this is a well known
problem, so a reference to former messages in the archives would be great as
well.
I'm also looking for photos of the completed latch assembly for tilt-up 6's.
If you have any, could you please e-mail them to me off-list at
pblake(at)epix.net. Thanks and regards
Peter Blake
60 Beverly Drive
Kintnersville, PA 18930
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark andrews <redbeardmark(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
You can do it. It is fun. Take your time and make
sure you have the proper safety equipment if you
paint.
Mark Andrews
RV-8A empennage finished
--- Brian's Mail wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Brian's Mail"
>
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my
> preview plans
> today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be
> able to do this?
> Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a
> little overwhelmed when
> they first got a look at the plans. I really want to
> build one of these
> amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
Two weeks and counting to the Twin Cities RV Forum. All RV folks and
aircraft are invited. Details are at:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/RVforum/
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Weight needed? To hang engine |
Hello Listers,
In order to hang the engine on a -6 without the wings, is some weight needed
on the tail of the airplane? If so, do you know approximately how much?
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 Slider 0-360A1A
N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weight needed? To hang engine |
In a message dated 4/21/02 3:39:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tim(at)bryantechnology.com writes:
<< Hello Listers,
In order to hang the engine on a -6 without the wings, is some weight needed
on the tail of the airplane? If so, do you know approximately how much?
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 Slider 0-360A1A
N616TB >>
Without the prop or tailfeathers installed, my 0-320-D2J (which is among the
lightest of the 0-320's) made the fuselage nose heavy once it was tipped
anywhere beyond absolutely level. With the tail on the ground, it was fine.
That said, I placed a milk crate on the deck back at the VS and HS, and put
50 or so pounds back there "just for good measure". I didn't want to lean on
something at the front end and get a surprise.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | exhaust system for sale |
Selling an 0-360 Allan Tolle exhaust system for an RV-4.
300 hours. good condition
Asking 275USD
Please reply to cjarman(at)shaw.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight needed? To hang engine |
I used four ten pound barbell weights (40lbs) tied to the tail spring. With
the engine prop and cowl installed lifting the tail feels about the same as
with the wings on. With the tail feathers and wings off it is a little light
so I added another ten pounds.
Cash Copeland
RV6 O360 Constant Speed
Oakland, Ca
> Hello Listers,
>
> In order to hang the engine on a -6 without the wings, is some weight
> needed
> on the tail of the airplane? If so, do you know approximately how much?
>
> Thanks
> Tim
> RV-6 Slider 0-360A1A
> N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | anti collision light |
can you use a strobe light in place of the standard anti collision light on
the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | anti collision light |
can you use a strobe light in place of the standard anti collision light on
the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
thank you
dan carley
Hi Dan
You cannot use a white strobe light in place of a white (aft) navigation
light. You need both.
Besides the regulatiory requirements think about the situation where there
is an aircraft behind you on the taxiway, at night, while you are running
up. Are you going to blind him with the strobe light or turn it off and
maybe have him run into you.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | nut plate question |
I have to enlarge the two 3/32 rivet holes in several nutplates to 1/8 inch
in order to use some oops rivets. Long story but my countersink did some
chatter on the attach strip that the outboard leading edge of tank is
attached to. Only one on the top and several on bottom. This is at the 71.5
leading edge rib. Does anyone know of a K1100 rivet nut that comes with 1/8
rivet holes? Is the integrity of the rivet holes damaged too much by
enlarging them a 1/32 for the opps rivets?
My last option is to redo (re-drill and re-rig).
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate question |
How much bigger, you can squeeze a -3 rivet to become a little bigger in
diameter, but not quite a -4 for slightly enlarged holes.
You can also let the countersink make a little dimple in the nutplate as
all the rivet does is hold the nutplate in position.
I have installed rivets, for nutplates only of course, with enlarged
holes, by installing a screw in the nutplate so it could not move and
then let the expanding rivet fill the hole to hold the nutplate. If you
use a oops rivet, the countersink you made, would stay the same #3
anyway. all the rivet does, as mentioned before is to hold the nutplate
in place till you get a screw in place. The body of the nutplate is what
makes the 'squeeze' to hold the parts together.
I don't know if I want to drill up the nutplates just to put a #4 oops
in with a #3 head if it is the countersink that made a hole of the wrong
shape or size, now of you wanted to use a regular #4, with a #4 size
head, that would make more sense somehow.
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have to enlarge the two 3/32 rivet holes in several nutplates to 1/8 inch
> in order to use some oops rivets. Long story but my countersink did some
> chatter on the attach strip that the outboard leading edge of tank is
> attached to. Only one on the top and several on bottom. This is at the 71.5
> leading edge rib. Does anyone know of a K1100 rivet nut that comes with 1/8
> rivet holes? Is the integrity of the rivet holes damaged too much by
> enlarging them a 1/32 for the opps rivets?
> My last option is to redo (re-drill and re-rig).
> Thanks, Bob
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
Building a 7A.
I had the same insecure feeling, but not anymore. Just completed the
horizontal stab and all went well. YES---I CAN do this---and so can you!!
Read, re-read and read again the instructions and the plans.
I strongly recommend buying the video instructions by George & Becki
Orndorff. A picture is worth a thousand words and this is a terrific
supplement to the plans and instructions.
The videos are available through Van or directly from the Orndorff's at
940-648-0841
or www.fly-gbi.com.
Nate D'Anna
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | anti collision light |
I respectfully disagree with George. Although I am not a Regulations Guru, I
am surrounded daily by a variety of aircraft that have a white STROBE on the
tail and no other rear-facing anti-collision light.
Maybe I should look up the regs just to be authoritative.
Keith Vasey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George McNutt
Subject: RE: RV-List: anti collision light
can you use a strobe light in place of the standard anti collision light on
the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
thank you
dan carley
Hi Dan
You cannot use a white strobe light in place of a white (aft) navigation
light. You need both.
Besides the regulatiory requirements think about the situation where there
is an aircraft behind you on the taxiway, at night, while you are running
up. Are you going to blind him with the strobe light or turn it off and
maybe have him run into you.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse bottom skins countersunk? |
Question about the F-772 and F-776 bottom fuselage skins on RV-7A.
I plan on countersinking the F-772 where it overlays the F-776 and dimple
elsewhere. Is this the norm? Or dimple both? If you dimple then you need to
dimple the spar centre sections (F-704s) as well.
So dimple or countersink F-772?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
(too many questions lately)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anti collision light |
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> can you use a strobe light in place of the standard anti collision light on
> the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
Not 100% sure but I believe you must have a white light constainly on to the
rear. Whelen makes a tail light that is both in one always on white and also a
strobe.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nut Plate Question Change! |
Please disregard earlier post re:nutplates by me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate question |
Bob, The rivets only hold the nutplate in place so as long as the regular AD3
rivet will hold the nutplate in place I would go ahead and use them. I see no
need to go to the larger rivet.
Gary
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have to enlarge the two 3/32 rivet holes in several nutplates to 1/8 inch
> in order to use some oops rivets. Long story but my countersink did some
> chatter on the attach strip that the outboard leading edge of tank is
> attached to. Only one on the top and several on bottom. This is at the 71.5
> leading edge rib. Does anyone know of a K1100 rivet nut that comes with 1/8
> rivet holes? Is the integrity of the rivet holes damaged too much by
> enlarging them a 1/32 for the opps rivets?
> My last option is to redo (re-drill and re-rig).
> Thanks, Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Cherry Max Rivets |
List, Occasionally I find a need for a Structural Rated Rivet sized at
3/32. Does anyone know if such a rivet exists (CR3212-3-2 for example)?
There are a couple of spots on the forward skin of my RV-6-A that
a conventional rivet can't be used do to too many goodies so bucking is
impossible. I have even thought of using 1/8 rivets on the whole skin if
needed to match available 1/8 Cheery Max rivets as a "Last Resort."
Anyone have a source? I can't believe somebody doesn't make a
3/32 Structural Pulled Rivet.
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filler Neck |
Greetings,
In fitting the top cowling, I see that my dipstick sits about 10" or
so below the access door - rather inconveniet - does anyone know
where I can order a longer filler neck and dipstick?? (I checked the
archives and Yeller Pages) Do Not Archieve
Thanks in advance
David Wentzell
RV6 , Lyc A2B
Racine, Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cherry Max Rivets |
Van's recommend the MK-319-BS blind rivet as a structural substitute for a
3/32 flush rivet...I think there are posts in the archives on this, but I
got this straight from Van's myself.
Mark Dickens
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cherry Max Rivets
>
> List, Occasionally I find a need for a Structural Rated Rivet sized at
> 3/32. Does anyone know if such a rivet exists (CR3212-3-2 for example)?
> There are a couple of spots on the forward skin of my RV-6-A that
> a conventional rivet can't be used do to too many goodies so bucking is
> impossible. I have even thought of using 1/8 rivets on the whole skin if
> needed to match available 1/8 Cheery Max rivets as a "Last Resort."
> Anyone have a source? I can't believe somebody doesn't make a
> 3/32 Structural Pulled Rivet.
>
> Thanks, Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? |
| From: | John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com> |
If you are able to assemble a barbecue grill, build a RC model airplane,
etc., you can. Take your time, read the instructions, and the plans
carefully before cutting or drilling metal. get some help from
experienced builders around you.
Build one of the training projects (I think Van sells one.) Invest in a
complete set of quality tools. You may find someone with a completed
project who wants to dispose of his tools.
Join a builders' group in your area. If there isn't one, start one. It
really helps is you can study someone else's project who is a little
ahead of you. If you can't solve a problem with local help, call
Van's.
By the time you've finished the empennage, which is a great training
exercise, you'll be ready to move on with a lot of self confidence.
By the time you make that first flight, you'll look back and say, "What
a great experience, I sure love this RV. Thanks Van!"
Boyd Seal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Gageby" <jackgageby(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: anti collision light |
I guess your question is whether a standard flashing red anticollision light
can be replaced with a strobe light. My opinion is that yes a strobe can
be used in place of the flashing red light. But, why would you want a
bright strobe light on top of the tail where it would illuminate the cockpit
of an RV4 and be very irritating? I believe the more logical approach is to
put strobes in the wingtips, out of the pilot's vision. The wingtip
position provides greater angular coverage, making it more likely others
will see you. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your project.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV4-List: anti collision light
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> can you use a strobe light in place of the standard anti collision light
on
> the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
>
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Garmin GNC 250XL/PN101 |
My question is for anyone who has experience with connecting a Garmin GNC
250XL and the Collins PN101 HSI. I have everything working but am finding
difficulty with the 2.5 volts DC that must share a ground wire. The Garmin
folks said I was the second person to call about this problem and they do not
have a fix. The problem is with the to/from flag in the VOR mode. There is
also a problem with the Garmin display blanking out due to this grounding.
If anyone has come up with a fix or knows of someone who could help, please
contact me on or off line. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Greg Schmidt
PHX/DVT N250GS
RV6S Finishing the Electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anti collision light |
Wow, people sure love to speculate. In hopes of stemming that, take a look
at the Whelen installation manual (http://www.whelen.com/pb/avserman.htm,
page 4). Or look at the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty catalog (my 1999-2000
edition has it on pg. 363). Both clearly show the required coverage for
white aft position lights. This is all of course for night flight. Some may
argue that we don't have to comply since ours are experimentals. Rather than
get into that whole can of worms I'll just say "check the archives."
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I really do this ....? |
Natedanna(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Building a 7A.
> I had the same insecure feeling, but not anymore. Just completed the
> horizontal stab and all went well. YES---I CAN do this---and so can you!!
Even on the -7A with all of its match hole pre-punch, there are some pretty
long stretches of tedium associated with things like 4800 deburring
operations on each wing (from roughly 300 holes per skin, 4 skins per wing,
plus corresponding holes in ribs). If you go with the standard kit, there
will definitely be some times you'll be thinking people in the Philippines
should do this kind of stuff...
The good news is that you can take the 'time to build' numbers off Van's
website and more or less divide by 2 to get a rough estimate of what it takes
to get the 7A airframe put together. For example, Van's page at:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/time-bld.htm
shows wings taking 550 hours, but even as a first time builder I was able to
finish them off in about 200 shop hours. Currently at 580 total shop hours
since starting last July and am about half done with the fuselage.
Yes, you can do it. It might take a bit more persistence and pesos than you
imagined at the beginning...
-Dan Masys
-7A N747DL reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filler Neck |
In a message dated 4/21/02 9:39:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, wntzl(at)execpc.com
writes:
<< Greetings,
In fitting the top cowling, I see that my dipstick sits about 10" or
so below the access door - rather inconveniet - does anyone know
where I can order a longer filler neck and dipstick?? (I checked the
archives and Yeller Pages)
Thanks in advance
David Wentzell
RV6 , Lyc A2B
Racine, Wisconsin >>
You can extend your existing oil filler neck.
1) Take your existing filler neck, and chop it in half, making sure to leave
at least two inches of tube on both sides of the cut-off.
2) Get a piece of PVC pipe from your local home improvement store that a
tight slip fit over your two pieces of existing filler neck. IF you can't
find the appropriate size, simply buy the closest smaller size, and get your
filler neck turned down slightly so it is a slip fit inside the PVC.
3) Cut the PVC to whatever the appropriate length is to extend the filler
neck.
4) Clean everything using the appropriate PVC cleaner and use PVC cement to
glue the splice in place.
5) (Not necessary, but recommended). Use hex screws (the kind without heads)
to dowel the splices together. If you do this, the PVC glue joint won't come
loose. Two RV's at my field have had the glue joints break, and have
resorted to doweling the splices in place in addition to the PVC cement.
As long as you can find someone with a lathe to turn down the outside of your
filler neck, this is a very simple project.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:TruTrak Autopilots |
Mark,
I have the digiflight 200 (the one with heading, alt, and GPSS) installed
in my -8. I ordered it shortly after oshkosh last year and got the servos and
installation "kit" shortly. I did not get the controller till the either the
end of jan or early feb. I believe the times are much shorter now.
The system was a breeze to install. I did have my avionics shop wire the
harness for it (a little over $100). It seems to work great on the ground
tests and is seeing what it should from the garmin 430. I also have it set up
to engage and disengage from the ray allen stick grip in addition to the
controller in the panel.
Support has been first class with what I have need so far. I have not
flow yet but should within a month. I see this as a company that will become
well known in the experimental market.
John Link
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GNC 250XL/PN101 |
WoW! A 28v RV. Don't tell 'Electric Bob'.
Bruce
Glasair III
PN101, 2xGNS430's, and 28v
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Coonan <gcoonan(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse bottom skins countersunk? |
"\"'RV-7 YAHOO'\" "
772 is too thick to dimple, just counter sink all the holes on the
bottom. You do not need to dimple the over lapping holes on 776, nor do
you need to counter sink the same related holes on the center bulkhead.
Gary Coonan
Rockvale, TN
RV-7 N696TT (Fuselage/Finishing)
gcoonan(at)comcast.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve J Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: Fuse bottom skins countersunk?
Question about the F-772 and F-776 bottom fuselage skins on RV-7A.
I plan on countersinking the F-772 where it overlays the F-776 and
dimple
elsewhere. Is this the norm? Or dimple both? If you dimple then you need
to
dimple the spar centre sections (F-704s) as well.
So dimple or countersink F-772?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
(too many questions lately)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cherry Max Rivets |
Tom,
No such animal in a cherrymax. The cherry "Q" rivets
work great and have a quality locking stem.
Stew 273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camping at Oshkosh |
You can still find a spot on the Sun before,but you better bring a bicycle
as you will be a ways from the flightline.Also someone can can hold aspot
for you,but they want you topay for the spot from the start of hold.
Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
Actually the stock HP on the XP is 187 and the 9:1 pistons take it to 195HP
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark D. Dickens [mailto:mddickens(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 vs O-320
Yes...I'd contact Sue Gregor at AeroSport Power (www.aerosportpower.com) and
ask her if you can get the higher compression pistons on a 320 and what they
add to the HP. I asked this question on the new XP-360 and she replied that
the 9.2 pistons added about 5% (9 HP).
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 vs O-320
>
> One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360
> over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more
> ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/21/2002 1:57:43 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> Anyone installed an alternate air source on an IO-360 in an RV-8 with Van's
>
> "snorkel" induction? If so, how'd you do it and got any pix?
>
> Regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
>
Hi Don:
I finally got a look at a succesful install of the F1 scoop onto an 8
equipped like you mention. Looked awfully simple,and the owner reports a
small increase in MP in cruise. I'm going to try to arrange 'borrowing' this
part to produce a mold, to make other like installations a bit easier. This
involves taking the ship out of service -- not the best thing this time of
year!
Cheers!
Mark
Team Rocket LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: anti collision light |
Guys,
Here's a qualified argument FOR the Vertical stab
strobe. Five years ago when I built my RV4 I looked at
the vert tail tip of the RV4 for the location of my
strobe. I knew at the time I would be one of the
high-time night flyers since I commuted to work in my
RV. I liked the idea because my work airplane (The
F-16) has the strobe there, and it's cheaper, simpler
and aerodynamically clean. General Dynamics took great
pains to locate the F-16 strobe in the most efficient
place for all operations, especially at night and with
NVG lighting. The Vertical Stab was the logical
choice.
The shape of the RV Vert stab in level flight is
angled downward aft which allows the forward part of
the Vert stab top to "blank" the cockpit from the
strobe. In Ninety-seven hours of night flying in my
RV-4 I have never had a problem with cockpit "strobe"
blindness with it mounted halfway back on the vert
fin. In fact, I have to physically look aft at the
horizontal tail to make sure it's on. Unless you fly
through clouds, you hardly notice it's there. Email me
if you have any questions...
Rob Ray
N557RR
smokyray(at)yahoo.com
--- Jack Gageby wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Jack Gageby"
>
>
> I guess your question is whether a standard flashing
> red anticollision light
> can be replaced with a strobe light. My opinion is
> that yes a strobe can
> be used in place of the flashing red light. But,
> why would you want a
> bright strobe light on top of the tail where it
> would illuminate the cockpit
> of an RV4 and be very irritating? I believe the
> more logical approach is to
> put strobes in the wingtips, out of the pilot's
> vision. The wingtip
> position provides greater angular coverage, making
> it more likely others
> will see you. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your
> project.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV4-List: anti collision light
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> >
> > can you use a strobe light in place of the
> standard anti collision light
> on
> > the rear of the rudder and still be night legal?
> >
> >
> > thank you
> > dan carley
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Formation Landing Video |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Joseph Czachorowski [zackrv8(at)earthlink.net] sent me a cool RV formation
landing video... I added it to my RV videos page... It's at the
bottom...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/videos/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anti collision light |
The drawing shows the strobes must be visible virtually all the way around
the aircraft. If you put strobes in the wingtips, each one must be visible
all the way from the propeller to the rudder on each side.
Those of you flying with wingtip strobes, Is this possible? I was planning
to put my nav and strobes inside the front tip of the fiberglass. Maybe
that doesn't provide the coverage without a tail stobe.
Tim
RV-6 Slider
N616TB hanging engine next week.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, April 21, 2002 08:01:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: anti collision light
Wow, people sure love to speculate. In hopes of stemming that, take a look
at the Whelen installation manual (http://www.whelen.com/pb/avserman.htm,
page 4). Or look at the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty catalog (my 1999-2000
edition has it on pg. 363). Both clearly show the required coverage for
white aft position lights. This is all of course for night flight. Some may
argue that we don't have to comply since ours are experimentals. Rather than
get into that whole can of worms I'll just say "check the archives."
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
NAT intercom owners,
I'm considering a NAT intercom for my RV-8. The dealer I spoke to said he
couldn't sell one "over-the-counter". Ie, he had to install it. NAT confirmed
that this was their policy; and going against the policy would void the
warranty. Doesn't seem to smart to exclude the large homebuilt audience, but
they didn't ask me either.
So, to those that already have one, where did you get it and how did you deal
with support issues?
Thanks,
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Formation Landing Video |
While on the subject, I did my first formation landing this weekend. Too Cool.
Sunday, we had 6 SoCal RV's, and 2 Bay Area RV'S show for a breakfast flyout in
to San Luis Obispo. My buddy, Paul and I were out playing around after breakfast
while he was giving a ride to a new builder (another Paul). We briefed before
returning and called the tower, and reported as a flight of two. I kept
right on his wing all the way around the pattern and down final. Touched down
right next to each other.
Best part was the controller that said "I haven't seen one of those since I retired
from the Navy, 22 years ago".
I took it as a compliment.
BTW, the newbie builder, Paul, was watching out of the right seat all the way down
final with real big eyes. He later replied just shaking his head....."I gotta
get home and finish those elevators tonight".
I think we modivated him for a while ;-)
These RV's are just TOO much fun. That time spent building is SO worth it.
Laird RV-6 470 hrs
SoCal
Joseph Czachorowski [zackrv8(at)earthlink.net] sent me a cool RV formation
landing video... I added it to my RV videos page... It's at the
bottom...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/videos/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Autopilots |
I purchased a DFC250 for my 6A. They have been great to work with and all
their hardware is top notch. The installation kits were good but not
perfect. First, I wish they had included all the screws and bolts. These
only cost a few bucks but it took some time to get an order together to ACS.
Secondly, I had to mess around with washer placement to ensure the servo
wouldn't bind at all. The brackets they sent were perfect, the
servos...elegant. I did the harness myself. I am not flying yet, hopefully
by the end of summer.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
> Is anyone out there flying with any of the TruTrak autopilots? Comments?
> For me, it's between S-Tec and TruTrak and although I was impressed with
my
> 30 minute conversation with TruTrak's inventor (Jim Younkin) at SNF, I'd
> feel better about it if I heard some positive news from early adopters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | anti collision light |
If your strobe heads protrude from the end of each tip, dual tip strobes
will satisfy the regulations. If your strobes are buried in tip and have
the same viewing angle as the nav lights, then you will have to use the
white tail light/strobe combo made by Wheelen to satisfy the feds.
Bruce
Glasair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed cables? |
I'm just getting around to crimping the terminals to my Lightspeed coax
leads and I'd like to see some pictures of other installations. There
doesn't seem to be any way to properly heat shrink the terminals onto
the coax with one crimped to the center conductor and another to the
braid. I crimped two terminals to one coax lead and really don't like
how flimsy it looks hanging off the ignition coil. How have people
secured these terminals in place?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
to the airport on Saturday...
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Autopilots |
Speaking of Tru Trak autopilots, Jim Younkin, inventor and president of
Trutrak is planning to attend our Twin Cities RV Forum. He will speak on
his flight systems plus he is planning to bring his RV-9A which is his demo
ship. And he is donating a very significant gift certificate for a major
discount on one of his systems.
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
> I purchased a DFC250 for my 6A. They have been great to work with and all
> their hardware is top notch. The installation kits were good but not
> perfect. First, I wish they had included all the screws and bolts. These
> only cost a few bucks but it took some time to get an order together to
ACS.
> Secondly, I had to mess around with washer placement to ensure the servo
> wouldn't bind at all. The brackets they sent were perfect, the
> servos...elegant. I did the harness myself. I am not flying yet,
hopefully
> by the end of summer.
>
> Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Kilishek" <airnuts(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Martin Sutter Where Are You? |
Martin, if you're out there, please get in touch with me. I have a question
for you and have misplaced your phone # and email address. I'm at
aeronut58(at)hotmail.com, or (972) 250-2906.
Thanks.
George Kilishek
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | TruTrak Autopilots |
And not only is he bringing the RV9-A to the Twin Cities RV Forum
(http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/RVforum/) on May 4th, it has all
THREE of his autopilots installed in the panel!!!
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 136 hours
>
> Speaking of Tru Trak autopilots, Jim Younkin, inventor and
> president of Trutrak is planning to attend our Twin Cities RV
> Forum. He will speak on his flight systems plus he is
> planning to bring his RV-9A which is his demo ship. And he
> is donating a very significant gift certificate for a major
> discount on one of his systems.
>
> Doug Weiler, MN Wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NAT Intercoms |
Call Team Rocket - they will sell you the NAT and other things, like the
Hooker Harnesses at a discount.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
115 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: NAT Intercoms
>
> NAT intercom owners,
>
> I'm considering a NAT intercom for my RV-8. The dealer I spoke to said he
> couldn't sell one "over-the-counter". Ie, he had to install it. NAT
confirmed
> that this was their policy; and going against the policy would void the
> warranty. Doesn't seem to smart to exclude the large homebuilt audience,
but
> they didn't ask me either.
>
> So, to those that already have one, where did you get it and how did you
deal
> with support issues?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> ====
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> http://games.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | ICS Plus NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom |
Has anybody had any experience with the ICS Plus
NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom?
Don't Arvhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A fuel selector location |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys with flying or finished -8A's....when strapped into the seat with
the shoulder harnesses cinched down snugly, is it hard to reach the fuel
selector? When sitting in my canoe making airplane noises the other
night with some cushions simulating the approx position of finished
seats, it seems I have to lean forward and down a bit to reach the fuel
selector, and if I had tightened shoulder harnesses it appears that it
would be quite a stretch. This could be bad if you need to switch tanks
quickly in the pattern.....just curious what others experience is. I'll
take comments from -8 drivers too but the selector position is slightly
different I think due to differences in landing gear structure.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed cables? |
Ken,
I share your concern with making this connection. Years of working with
coax has taught me that coax terminated by anything other than a coaxial
connector is subject to fatigue failure. Here is what I did (dual
Lightspeed EI install):
- prepare the coax pigtails, about 2" each of center conductor and shield.
- Splice 12" or so of quality 18 gauge aircraft wire to each pigtail by
soldering, then covering the splice with heat shrink.
- Take (4) 10" sections of leftover coax and pull out the center conductor
and shield (all you have left is the black outer jacket). Slide these
jackets over the new 18 gauge wire pigtails.
- Using a 3" or so piece of small diameter plastic rod, encase both coax/18
gauge wire junctions and plastic rod in a large piece of heat shrink. The
idea is this will completely immobilize the junction from flexing.
- Using an adel clamp, mount the now encased coax/wire transition piece to
something near where you mounted the coils. If this is the top set of
coils, the aft baffle works well.
- Trim the pigtails to length and crimp on the end connectors. Recommend
making a loop of the pigtails to allow for some flex.
I'll see if I can get someone to take a digital picture of this for you.
Hope this helps.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (at the hanger, doing the last few things)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed cables?
I'm just getting around to crimping the terminals to my Lightspeed coax
leads and I'd like to see some pictures of other installations. There
doesn't seem to be any way to properly heat shrink the terminals onto
the coax with one crimped to the center conductor and another to the
braid. I crimped two terminals to one coax lead and really don't like
how flimsy it looks hanging off the ignition coil. How have people
secured these terminals in place?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
to the airport on Saturday...
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years old
and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends upon
gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon itself
act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must still
be functional. If not, I suppose they need to be pressure checked some
how?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson,
RV3 fuselage,
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
In a message dated 4/22/2002 8:40:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rickf(at)velocitus.net writes:
> I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years old
> and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
> they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends upon
> gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon itself
> act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must still
> be functional.
They should still be relatively full if they still weigh approximately their
original posted weight. Like all Freon type materials they have a high
vapor pressure that self propels them out of the extinguisher at room
temperature. Pressure testing is only needed for non-self propelling media.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Andair-- address ( E mail) |
Listers
Would someone be so kind as to re-post Andairs E address.
Thank You Kindly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
Rick,
I'm not sure about Halon 1301, but the more common and cheaper Halon 1211
portable extinguishers were pressurized with nitrogen gas. If the bottle
doesn't have a pressure gauge, the only way to verify that it has not leaked
is if the label on the bottle lists a gross weight (filled weight). If so,
you could check for leakage by weighing the bottle. If the pressure has
leaked down, there is a good chance that the Halon would not be expelled at
a useful rate.
However, I would be leery of any bottle that old. If there was even a tiny
amount of moisture in the bottle when originally filled, there may be
corrosion in the bottle that would make it unsafe if still pressurized.
FYI: Halon 1301 used to be sold for enclosed areas such as computer rooms
and restaurants (it is safer if inhaled). Halon 1211 was used in most
vehicle and portable applications. Since Halon being sold today is mostly
recycled, much of it is now a blend of both types.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
PS: I used to sell and service Lifeline fire suppression systems (Halon
1211)
-----Original Message-----
I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years old
and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends upon
gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon itself
act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must still
be functional. If not, I suppose they need to be pressure checked some
how?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson,
RV3 fuselage,
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Andair-- address ( E mail) |
Here it is: mailto:andair(at)andair.co.uk
Chris Heitman
-----Original Message-----
Would someone be so kind as to re-post Andairs E address.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "russ(at)maui.net" <drdestructo(at)livedoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NAT Intercoms |
Larry,
I bought a used AA83 online for$100. NAT is less than helpful, but will
tell a local dealer to give you the connection info. I pursued it through
electric Bob and he shamed them into sending him the install and setup info
for me. I think it is worth pursuing a unit, though new ones are seriously
spendy. I recently saw a AA80 online for $140 but I'm in Tokyo and the link
is at home in Hawaii. If you want, I'll forward that link when I get home.
I got my AA83 from Elliott Aviation's online used avionics.
I can also pass along the AA83 install info to anyone who might need it.
Russ
HRII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Larry,
I just installed a NAT intercom AA-80 and love it. I bought it from
aerotronics (aerotronics.com). Speak to Martin. He is not around much
this time of year. So you may need to work with someone else. He is the
President and a Glastar builder. They can also make up a Very nice harness
for it for around $100. It was worth its weight in gold for me.
Don Mei
RV-4 (open headers, no insulation, the NAT does a great job with the noise)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed cables? |
It'll be interesting to see how this works out in service. I would
have thought that the long wires connected to the end of the coax
would allow lots of noise to be transmitted, which could be picked up
by the radios, intercom, etc. But, I'm no expert.
I'm going to feed this over to the Aeroelectric List to see if anyone
over there has useful comments. I'll be doing the same task on my
Lightspeed soon.
Kevin Horton
>
>Ken,
>
> I share your concern with making this connection. Years of
>working with
>coax has taught me that coax terminated by anything other than a coaxial
>connector is subject to fatigue failure. Here is what I did (dual
>Lightspeed EI install):
>- prepare the coax pigtails, about 2" each of center conductor and shield.
>- Splice 12" or so of quality 18 gauge aircraft wire to each pigtail by
>soldering, then covering the splice with heat shrink.
>- Take (4) 10" sections of leftover coax and pull out the center conductor
>and shield (all you have left is the black outer jacket). Slide these
>jackets over the new 18 gauge wire pigtails.
>- Using a 3" or so piece of small diameter plastic rod, encase both coax/18
>gauge wire junctions and plastic rod in a large piece of heat shrink. The
>idea is this will completely immobilize the junction from flexing.
>- Using an adel clamp, mount the now encased coax/wire transition piece to
>something near where you mounted the coils. If this is the top set of
>coils, the aft baffle works well.
>- Trim the pigtails to length and crimp on the end connectors. Recommend
>making a loop of the pigtails to allow for some flex.
>
> I'll see if I can get someone to take a digital picture of
>this for you.
>
>Hope this helps.
>Carl Froehlich
>RV-8A (at the hanger, doing the last few things)
>Vienna, VA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed cables?
>
>
>I'm just getting around to crimping the terminals to my Lightspeed coax
>leads and I'd like to see some pictures of other installations. There
>doesn't seem to be any way to properly heat shrink the terminals onto
>the coax with one crimped to the center conductor and another to the
>braid. I crimped two terminals to one coax lead and really don't like
>how flimsy it looks hanging off the ignition coil. How have people
>secured these terminals in place?
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
>to the airport on Saturday...
>groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNC 250XL/PN101 |
Who said anything about a 28V RV. Mine is a 14V system and I derive 24V from
a converter. The rest of the system is 14V.
Still looking for some constructive assistance.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S N250GS
PHX/DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A fuel selector location |
Mark...
I can reach it just fine with the straps on...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection this Friday...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A fuel selector location
Guys with flying or finished -8A's....when strapped into the seat with
the shoulder harnesses cinched down snugly, is it hard to reach the fuel
selector? When sitting in my canoe making airplane noises the other
night with some cushions simulating the approx position of finished
seats, it seems I have to lean forward and down a bit to reach the fuel
selector, and if I had tightened shoulder harnesses it appears that it
would be quite a stretch. This could be bad if you need to switch tanks
quickly in the pattern.....just curious what others experience is. I'll
take comments from -8 drivers too but the selector position is slightly
different I think due to differences in landing gear structure.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
If anyone has a carb for an O-360 (new) for sell please call me at
940-648-0841...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A fuel selector location |
Mark,
Our Andair fuel selector is directly below the throttle quad on the left
side (floor panel) on the flat part of the panel. Our fuel gagues are on the
angled part of the panel.
Dave and I do not have any trouble reaching and operating the selector. BTW
my shirt sleeve length is 34 ( only slightly longer arms than most.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8A fuel selector location
>Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:31:48 -0500
>
>
>Guys with flying or finished -8A's....when strapped into the seat with
>the shoulder harnesses cinched down snugly, is it hard to reach the fuel
>selector? When sitting in my canoe making airplane noises the other
>night with some cushions simulating the approx position of finished
>seats, it seems I have to lean forward and down a bit to reach the fuel
>selector, and if I had tightened shoulder harnesses it appears that it
>would be quite a stretch. This could be bad if you need to switch tanks
>quickly in the pattern.....just curious what others experience is. I'll
>take comments from -8 drivers too but the selector position is slightly
>different I think due to differences in landing gear structure.
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A sanding fiberglass...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed cables? |
I tried connecting the coax pigtails directly to the connectors and was
not convinced this was a reliable installation. I did my installation
similiar
to Carl. I used Adel clamps and some red RTV to immobilize the wires
installed on the aft baffle.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 3, 1955 at San Quentin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightspeed cables?
Ken,
I share your concern with making this connection. Years of working
with
coax has taught me that coax terminated by anything other than a coaxial
connector is subject to fatigue failure. Here is what I did (dual
Lightspeed EI install):
- prepare the coax pigtails, about 2" each of center conductor and shield.
- Splice 12" or so of quality 18 gauge aircraft wire to each pigtail by
soldering, then covering the splice with heat shrink.
- Take (4) 10" sections of leftover coax and pull out the center conductor
and shield (all you have left is the black outer jacket). Slide these
jackets over the new 18 gauge wire pigtails.
- Using a 3" or so piece of small diameter plastic rod, encase both coax/18
gauge wire junctions and plastic rod in a large piece of heat shrink. The
idea is this will completely immobilize the junction from flexing.
- Using an adel clamp, mount the now encased coax/wire transition piece to
something near where you mounted the coils. If this is the top set of
coils, the aft baffle works well.
- Trim the pigtails to length and crimp on the end connectors. Recommend
making a loop of the pigtails to allow for some flex.
I'll see if I can get someone to take a digital picture of this for
you.
Hope this helps.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (at the hanger, doing the last few things)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
The Halon gas does create some pressure, but not nearly enough. Dry
Nitrogen is the gas that expels the Halon.
You should have a gage on your extinguisher. As long as the needle is in
the green, it will work.
Cecil Hatfield
(Certified by the State of California to service Extinguishers)
writes:
>
>
> I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years
> old
> and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
> they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends
> upon
> gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon
> itself
> act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must
> still
> be functional. If not, I suppose they need to be pressure checked
> some
> how?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson,
> RV3 fuselage,
> Boise, ID
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Haviland <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
http://iavbbs.com/jgh/rvmi
> a site where I can place an add for a fly-in to get RV's to
> come? I would like to get a good group of RV's to show up at our Michigan
> Upper Peninsula EAA chp439 fly-in. It will be on Sept. 21 rain day Sept. 22
> at IMT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: anti collision light "Tell-Tail" |
Does anyone remember the "Tell-Tail" lights ?? They iluminated your tail
with flood lights by housing a very bright light in the horz. tail that
was pointed on the rudder and vert stab and likewise burried a flood
light in the very stab to shine on the horz. stab. Very visable in the
darkness and seemes cheap if I remember. Does anyone know of a simular
device available today ???
Guys,
Here's a qualified argument FOR the Vertical stab
strobe. Five years ago when I built my RV4 I looked at
the vert tail tip of the RV4 for the location of my
strobe. I knew at the time I would be one of the
high-time night flyers since I commuted to work in my
RV. I liked the idea because my work airplane (The
F-16) has the strobe there, and it's cheaper, simpler
and aerodynamically clean. General Dynamics took great
pains to locate the F-16 strobe in the most efficient
place for all operations, especially at night and with
NVG lighting. The Vertical Stab was the logical
choice.
The shape of the RV Vert stab in level flight is
angled downward aft which allows the forward part of
the Vert stab top to "blank" the cockpit from the
strobe. In Ninety-seven hours of night flying in my
RV-4 I have never had a problem with cockpit "strobe"
blindness with it mounted halfway back on the vert
fin. In fact, I have to physically look aft at the
horizontal tail to make sure it's on. Unless you fly
through clouds, you hardly notice it's there. Email me
if you have any questions...
Rob Ray
N557RR
smokyray(at)yahoo.com
--- Jack Gageby wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Jack Gageby"
>
>
> I guess your question is whether a standard flashing
> red anticollision light
> can be replaced with a strobe light. My opinion is
> that yes a strobe can
> be used in place of the flashing red light. But,
> why would you want a
> bright strobe light on top of the tail where it
> would illuminate the cockpit
> of an RV4 and be very irritating? I believe the
> more logical approach is to
> put strobes in the wingtips, out of the pilot's
> vision. The wingtip
> position provides greater angular coverage, making
> it more likely others
> will see you. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your
> project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
In a message dated 4/22/2002 8:40:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rickf(at)velocitus.net writes:
> I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years old
> and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
> they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends upon
> gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon itself
> act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must still
> be functional.
It is my understanding from conversations with the manufacturers that Halon
1301 is used as the propellant in Halon extinguishers that do not have a
pressure gauge. You check those by weighing them. They have a twenty year
shelf life, if I remember correctly. Those that have a pressure gauge use
nitrogen and should be checked every six years.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, waiting on the FAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A fuel selector location |
Guys,
For what its worth, I also sat in the fuselage of my RV-4/Rocket and found
that with my body style that I could not reach the fuel selector. I routed
the fuel lines from the wings to a spot behind the stick and bewteen my
legs. My theory is that "IF I CAN REACH MY D_CK, I CAN REACH THE FUEL
SELECTOR!" :-) (Sorry for the sick fighter pilot humor.) I am very
happy with the arrangement. Sorry, no digital camera so no pictures to
email.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
OSH 2002 or bust
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Recoating epoxy primer |
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
While priming some parts with some of the Sherwin Williams epoxy primer
I got in a little hurry. I turned the parts before they were dry enough
and some of the paint peeled/stuck to the fixture I was using to paint.
The alodine is obvious in those spots. The question, can I scuff and
repaint these parts or do I need to go back to bare aluminum and start
over?
Ken
RV-8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
If I have a serial number of an engine is there anywhere
I can find information on that engine?
Steve
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Cherry Max Rivets |
Tom,
I found a bag of 3/32 head, 1/8" shank cherry max rivets -2 long, during a
rummage sale - perfect for the job, no ideas of p/n's though. But I KNOW
they exist.
regards
David Roseblade
RV6 Finish,
UAE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark D. Dickens
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cherry Max Rivets
Van's recommend the MK-319-BS blind rivet as a structural substitute for a
3/32 flush rivet...I think there are posts in the archives on this, but I
got this straight from Van's myself.
Mark Dickens
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cherry Max Rivets
>
> List, Occasionally I find a need for a Structural Rated Rivet sized at
> 3/32. Does anyone know if such a rivet exists (CR3212-3-2 for example)?
> There are a couple of spots on the forward skin of my RV-6-A that
> a conventional rivet can't be used do to too many goodies so bucking is
> impossible. I have even thought of using 1/8 rivets on the whole skin if
> needed to match available 1/8 Cheery Max rivets as a "Last Resort."
> Anyone have a source? I can't believe somebody doesn't make a
> 3/32 Structural Pulled Rivet.
>
> Thanks, Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Planning Software |
I have looked at the archives and searched the net.
Does anyone have a recomendation on what flight planning software to use? I
have looked at
http://aeroplanner.com/ This has some free services for us eaa members
http://plan.aopa.org/ This is aopa's free service through DUATS
http://www.flightprep.com/ On Line Service for $10/mo for AOPA members
http://www.landings.com/aviation.html Go to fight planning
I have not looked at the expensive programs with expensive update services.
I own an Apollo Stack with GX-60 and MX-20 that will have subscription
services and don't particularly want another.
Thanks,
Ross Mickey
RV6A N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
I've got one of those nice Van's Air Force data plates, which I took out
this afternoon to play 'fill in the blanks'. I was planning on using a
set of alphanumeric punches, but discovered that the size and spacing of
my punch set is way too large for the data plate's blank spaces.
How have people been inscribing these data plates? Punches? Engraving?
Regards,
Ken Balch
gettin' right down to the end now...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
I took mine to a local trophy shop with an 8.5x11 print out showing
exactly how I wanted it done... Cost: $10... Haw it looks: Priceless!
Sorry... Couldn't resist...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection this Friday...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: Data plate engraving
I've got one of those nice Van's Air Force data plates, which I took out
this afternoon to play 'fill in the blanks'. I was planning on using a
set of alphanumeric punches, but discovered that the size and spacing of
my punch set is way too large for the data plate's blank spaces.
How have people been inscribing these data plates? Punches? Engraving?
Regards,
Ken Balch
gettin' right down to the end now...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 04/21/02 |
That is a very good point, George, about the guy behind you at nite. That
alone is reason enough not to mount the strobe there. George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
Ken,
I took mine to a jewelry store. They did a great job, only cost about
$20.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
> I've got one of those nice Van's Air Force data plates, which I took out
> this afternoon to play 'fill in the blanks'. I was planning on using a
> set of alphanumeric punches, but discovered that the size and spacing of
> my punch set is way too large for the data plate's blank spaces.
>
> How have people been inscribing these data plates? Punches? Engraving?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> gettin' right down to the end now...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spenner <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br> |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
multipart/alternative
text/html
audio/x-midi
application/octet-stream
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
Oh yeah... I forgot to mention that Steve Davis "The Panel Pilot" can
do that for you too!
http://members.aol.com/panelcut/
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Data plate engraving
I took mine to a local trophy shop with an 8.5x11 print out showing
exactly how I wanted it done... Cost: $10... How it looks: Priceless!
Sorry... Couldn't resist...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection this Friday... http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Subject: RV-List: Data plate engraving
I've got one of those nice Van's Air Force data plates, which I took out
this afternoon to play 'fill in the blanks'. I was planning on using a
set of alphanumeric punches, but discovered that the size and spacing of
my punch set is way too large for the data plate's blank spaces.
How have people been inscribing these data plates? Punches? Engraving?
Regards,
Ken Balch
gettin' right down to the end now...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Flying RV-6A for sale |
I am selling my RV-6A so I can build another one. Anyone interested can view my
website for a complete builder's log and lots of pictures:
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
$62,500
Eric Newton - (228) 868-9670
I'll deliver in the US for expenses
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying RV-6A for sale |
In a message dated 4/23/02 6:34:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
enewton57(at)cableone.net writes:
<< I am selling my RV-6A so I can build another one. Anyone interested can
view my website for a complete builder's log and lots of pictures:
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
$62,500 >>
This is a nice looking airplane folks. Probably a great deal at this price.
Eric... about that commission... ;-)
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Halon Fire Extinguisher - how to tell if it is good. |
"Richard D. Fogerson" wrote:
>
> I have a couple of halon fire extinguishers that are about 15 years old
> and never used. They are still full of liquid and I am wondering if
> they are still good. Does anyone know if their operation depends upon
> gas pressure from something other than halon or does the halon itself
> act as the propellant. If halon is the propellant then they must still
> be functional. If not, I suppose they need to be pressure checked some
> how?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson,
> RV3 fuselage,
> Boise, ID
Those with pressure gauges are nitrogen pressurized and the gauge shows the properly
charged range,
those without gauges are self pressurizing and must be weighed to check the charge.
(this type
should have a charged weight shown on the label) There are different types of halon
used which makes
for the differences.
--
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
When I received my used 0-360 engine, they sent a 149 tooth starter ring
gear, the Sky-Tech starter on the engine uses a 122 tooth. the company
is willing to trade me a B&S starter with 122 tooth for my Sky-Tech
starter. I have never heard of a B&S! What is the quality comparing it
to the Sky-Tech or the starter Lycoming uses?
thanks:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | F-622 & F-624 & F-623 baggage side rib?. |
Hello I have a ? with the f 622 & f 624 & f 623 . If you put a level
vertically from the bottom longerons to the 622 the 623 is about a 1/2 in. in
towards the center. The 624 is a striate part no curve on it. So when
installed its a half inch out if I move it in to line up with the 623 there
will be a problem at the intersection of 622 & 624. The 623 is were the plans
say to put it 13 5/8 from center. if I move 623 out to line up IM not sure
what it will do to that coned section on the skin just aft of the 624. Open
for suggestions spent way to much time on it already. Thanks
Bill Higgins
RV-6
Pembroke MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | f-878B angle attach |
Hello,
I am on the RV8 dwg 30/31 Detail B (also drawing 11) and have come to
part where I am supposed to rivet the f-878B (L/R) angle to the 804 main
spar. This is so you can connect the mid cabin brace (878) from gearbox
to main spar.
Does anyone have a suggestion or trick for bucking this one rivet. I
can barely get my hand in between the spar members let alone a bucking
bar.
Please tell me I can use a 'Pop' rivet.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 SB canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Data plate engraving |
Where did you mount it?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
> I took mine to a local trophy shop with an 8.5x11 print out showing
> exactly how I wanted it done... Cost: $10... Haw it looks: Priceless!
>
> Sorry... Couldn't resist...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection this Friday...
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
>
>
> I've got one of those nice Van's Air Force data plates, which I took out
> this afternoon to play 'fill in the blanks'. I was planning on using a
> set of alphanumeric punches, but discovered that the size and spacing of
> my punch set is way too large for the data plate's blank spaces.
>
> How have people been inscribing these data plates? Punches? Engraving?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> gettin' right down to the end now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
On the left side of the fuse under the horizontal stab... Will post pix
to my web site tomorrow...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data plate engraving
-->
Where did you mount it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jsu24osu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: starters |
B&S starters are high quality units, weight about the same as SkyTech.
Usually cost more. I've used them for over ten years with no trouble. The
company is out of Hutchinson Kansas and run by a man named Bill Bainbridge
(sp?) who I have found to be an honest guy. Look for them on the net.
J.U.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bbeaird" <bbeaird(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: starters |
Bill Bainbridge runs B&C & sells his own very high quality starters. I've
never heard of B&S.
Ben
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jsu24osu(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: starters
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Jsu24osu(at)aol.com
>
>
> B&S starters are high quality units, weight about the same as SkyTech.
> Usually cost more. I've used them for over ten years with no trouble. The
> company is out of Hutchinson Kansas and run by a man named Bill Bainbridge
> (sp?) who I have found to be an honest guy. Look for them on the net.
> J.U.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Planning Software |
Ross,
I have just replaced my Destination Direct with RMS' Flitesoft Pro
(VFR/IFR). They also have a Personal (VFR) version. Very happy with it.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Flight Planning Software
>Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:47:50 -0700
>
>
>I have looked at the archives and searched the net.
>
>Does anyone have a recomendation on what flight planning software to use?
>I
>have looked at
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"RV List" , "RV8ListVANS"
For all those who have not yet done their fuel tanks. I don't know if this is news
or not but I found that you can buy sealant pre-mixed in tubes
which you can apply with a caulk gun.Much more enjoyable:) to work with.
Less mess very easy. But it costs more. Well worth it to me.
Al Grajek
RV8
Wnngs/tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Planning Software |
Ross,
I would second Chuck's comment. I am using RMS Flitesoft Pro and am happy
with it. You can decide how often you want updates if at all based on your
type of flying and other resources available. The updates come with updated
software including new features plus updated navigation.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
N616TB hanging engine soon.
-------Original Message-------
I have just replaced my Destination Direct with RMS' Flitesoft Pro
(VFR/IFR). They also have a Personal (VFR) version. Very happy with it.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>
>I have looked at the archives and searched the net.
>
>Does anyone have a recomendation on what flight planning software to use?
>I
>have looked at
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-622 & F-624 & F-623 baggage side rib?. |
Bill,
>>spent way to much time on it already<<
This part is probably right. I am assuming here your fuse is still in the
jig and not skinned at least on the sides. I left them out and put them in
after it was out of the jig. That way I was able to fit them to the skin.
Worked out good for me.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Slider
N616TB Installing engine soon and getting excited about it.
-------Original Message-------
Hello I have a ? with the f 622 & f 624 & f 623 . If you put a level
vertically from the bottom longerons to the 622 the 623 is about a 1/2 in.
in
towards the center. The 624 is a striate part no curve on it. So when
installed its a half inch out if I move it in to line up with the 623 there
will be a problem at the intersection of 622 & 624. The 623 is were the
plans
say to put it 13 5/8 from center. if I move 623 out to line up IM not sure
what it will do to that coned section on the skin just aft of the 624. Open
for suggestions spent way to much time on it already. Thanks
Bill Higgins
RV-6
Pembroke MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Allen <fliier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Planning Software |
I purchased the AIRPLAN software from Razor's edge software http://www.razorsedgesoft.com. I think my package, include 10 sectionals, was about $90. The software is available without the sectionals for less. First year data updates are free and the fees for future updates are small.
I am pleased with the software overall. It is a little rough around the edges
in some places, but it never bombs. It is actually quite capable. There is a
demo version available that will give you an idea of the user interface, though
it is much more limiting than the actual program.
John Allen
RV-6A
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | IC-A22 Accessories |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Hi all... I am in need of a headset adapter, PTT adapter, and A/C
adapter for an Icom IC-A22 handheld NAV/Comm... If you have any of
these that you don't need or want any longer please contact me off
list...
Thanks!
-Bill
bill(at)vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K38 or K36 Application |
For those using K38 (or K36) to smooth out fiberglass parts and/or to fill
pin holes, how are you applying this (spray gun? Squeegee?). Thanks.
Also, for those building 8's or 8A's, I found it quicker to make a simple
fiberglass fairing for the lower empennage gap seal. Fiddling with Van's
metal strips and black rubber seal material looked considerably more
painful.
Rick Jory RV8A (N184RJ - reserved!!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: starters |
I have over 600 hours on an RV-4 with a Sky Tech starter ,it has not
missed a beat.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
I agree with Al, much easier to work with, especially while attaching the
canopy.
Another name for pro-seal is sem-weld.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Niantic, CT)
>From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "VansAirForce" , "RV List"
>, "RV8ListVANS"
>Subject: RV-List: Pro-seal
>Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:54:30 -0700
>
>
>For all those who have not yet done their fuel tanks. I don't know if thi>s is
news or not but I found that you can buy sealant pre-mixed in tubes
>which you can apply with a caulk gun.Much more enjoyable:) to work with.
>Less mess very easy. But it costs more. Well worth it to me.
>Al Grajek
>RV8
>Wnngs/tanks
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw:Re: MT props? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
FYI guys....
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: "Barbara Billman" <barbb(at)vansaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: MT props?
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:54:53 -0700
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> Have you guys stopped selling MT props? Just curious because I
> noticed they have been removed from your website...
>
> --Mark Navratil
> RV-8A #80583
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> finish kit stuff....
> ________________________________________________________________
Mark, we have just received new info from MT and are sorting it out
before we proceed with any more sales. They have changed the
program so we need to figure out what we want to do. We are not
excluding them quite yet. Barb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: K38 or K36 Application |
> For those using K38 (or K36) to smooth out fiberglass parts and/or to fill
> pin holes, how are you applying this (spray gun? Squeegee?). Thanks.
> Also, for those building 8's or 8A's, I found it quicker to make a simple
> fiberglass fairing for the lower empennage gap seal. Fiddling with Van's
> metal strips and black rubber seal material looked considerably more
> painful.
> Rick Jory RV8A (N184RJ - reserved!!)
Both, but primarily spray gun. It's kind of fun to spray on because you
don't have to worry about technique, just get it on there thick, and if it
runs it's no big deal, you'll be sanding it off anyway. When spraying you
can use your finger to rub it into any stubborn remaining pinholes while
it's still wet.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: K38 or K36 Application |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
01:35:01 PM
Since you are using fiberglass why not stay with it. Mix epoxy resin and
West Marine 407 filler and just paint it on to the consistency of Ketchup.
Then sand till uniform. It will have better structural properties than K36
which is about $70.00 for a quart kit. As opposed to $8.00 for 407 assuming
you still have some resin left. When you are finished, just paint over it
with a coat of resin to fill the sanding marks and then lightly sand with
280 grit.
If you are set on K36 and you don't have to build up anything, just shoot
it.
Eric
"Rick Jory" (at)matronics.com on 04/24/2002 12:16:49 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Re: K38 or K36 Application
For those using K38 (or K36) to smooth out fiberglass parts and/or to fill
pin holes, how are you applying this (spray gun? Squeegee?). Thanks.
Also, for those building 8's or 8A's, I found it quicker to make a simple
fiberglass fairing for the lower empennage gap seal. Fiddling with Van's
metal strips and black rubber seal material looked considerably more
painful.
Rick Jory RV8A (N184RJ - reserved!!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: K38 or K36 Application |
I have 407 but haven't used it yet. I've just read accolades in the
archives about the properties of K38, especially with pin holes. For what
it's worth (i.e. other readers on the list), the West system is phenomenal .
. . easy to mix (each part has a plunger that puts in the right amount per
"plunge"), easy to store (container with plunger can be left open), easy to
use (especially with microballoons), I'll try the 407 but I already own a
bit of K36. Thanks for the input.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: K38 or K36 Application
>
>
> Since you are using fiberglass why not stay with it. Mix epoxy resin and
> West Marine 407 filler and just paint it on to the consistency of Ketchup.
> Then sand till uniform. It will have better structural properties than K36
> which is about $70.00 for a quart kit. As opposed to $8.00 for 407
assuming
> you still have some resin left. When you are finished, just paint over it
> with a coat of resin to fill the sanding marks and then lightly sand with
> 280 grit.
>
> If you are set on K36 and you don't have to build up anything, just shoot
> it.
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Rick Jory" (at)matronics.com on 04/24/2002 12:16:49 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To:
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: K38 or K36 Application
>
>
> For those using K38 (or K36) to smooth out fiberglass parts and/or to fill
> pin holes, how are you applying this (spray gun? Squeegee?). Thanks.
> Also, for those building 8's or 8A's, I found it quicker to make a simple
> fiberglass fairing for the lower empennage gap seal. Fiddling with Van's
> metal strips and black rubber seal material looked considerably more
> painful.
> Rick Jory RV8A (N184RJ - reserved!!)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
First off, the stuff isn't really pre-mixed. Both parts come in a tube and
you mix it right before you are going to use it. I used it on my tanks and
it was really great. Look in the Aircraft Spruce catalog under "sealant".
This stuff is called something like B2 sealant, and it's about $17.00 a kit.
It's meant to be used with a special pneumatic caulk gun, but you can use
a regular hardware store gun with a little modification. I got the use of a
pneumo gun and it was great. It took a lot of the pain out of building the
tanks. Incidentally, it will take about 8 kits to do a set of tanks, and I
highly recommend you also get regular pro-seal for those smaller jobs.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data plate engraving |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
FAR 45.13 cleary states the following is required:
Builder Name
Model
S/N
Engine Type
Did the FAA forget to update their page again ?
Rob Acker (RV-6)
>
> By the FARs we only need a plate that has the model and serial number
> affixed to the fuselage. All the rest of the stuff on the data plate is
> bunk. Take a look at a spam can and see what they have. We don't need
> the big ugly dataplate.
>
> Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Data plate engraving |
Since the subject has been raised, what is meant by "engine type"
(manufacturer + model number, just manufacturer?). Thanks. Also, it is my
understanding that the builder puts down his own serial number. So if he
wants "001" he's okay (i.e. this has nothing to do with any number
associated with Van's). Am I correct? Thanks.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
> FAR 45.13 cleary states the following is required:
>
> Builder Name
> Model
> S/N
> Engine Type
>
> Did the FAA forget to update their page again ?
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6)
>
>
> >
> > By the FARs we only need a plate that has the model and serial number
> > affixed to the fuselage. All the rest of the stuff on the data plate is
> > bunk. Take a look at a spam can and see what they have. We don't need
> > the big ugly dataplate.
> >
> > Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Data Plate; was Data plate engraving |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Just so we get this right. Here it is right from the FAA's current online FARs
and I was wrong. We need items 1, 2 and 3 and that's all. Item 6 if for aircraft
engines not aircraft with engines. The engine would get it's own data plate from
the manufacturer
So all we need is a small fireproof plate with our name, aircraft model and
aircraft S/N. There is no size requirement.
The huge dataplate most of us install is just plane ugly (IMHO). My next RV will
have a small dataplate with just the above 3 items.
Gary Zilik
Sec. 45.13
Identification data.
(a) The identification required by Sec. 45.11 (a) and (b) shall include the
following information:
(1) Builder's name.
(2) Model designation.
(3) Builder's serial number.
(4) Type certificate number, if any.
(5) Production certificate number, if any.
(6) For aircraft engines, the established rating.
(7) On or after January 1, 1984, for aircraft engines specified in part 34 of
this chapter, the date of manufacture as defined in Sec. 34.1 of that part, and
a designation, approved by the Administrator of the FAA, that indicates
compliance with the applicable exhaust emission provisions of part 34 and 40 CFR
part 87. Approved designations include COMPLY, EXEMPT, and NON-US as appropriate.
(i) The designation COMPLY indicates that the engine is in compliance with all
of the applicable exhaust emissions provisions of part 34. For any engine with
a
rated thrust in excess of 26.7 kilonewtons (6000 pounds) which is not used or
intended for use in commercial operations and which is in compliance with the
applicable provisions of part 34, but does not comply with the
hydrocarbon emissions standard of Sec. 34.21(d), the statement "May not be used
as a commercial aircraft engine" must be noted in the permanent powerplant
record that accompanies the engine at the time of manufacture of the engine.
(ii) The designation EXEMPT indicates that the engine has been granted an
exemption pursuant to the applicable provision of Sec. 34.7 (a)(1), (a)(4), (b),
(c), or (d), and an indication of the type of exemption and the reason for the
grant must be noted in the permanent powerplant record that accompanies the
engine from the time of manufacture of the engine.
(iii) The designation NON-US indicates that the engine has been granted an
exemption pursuant to Sec. 34.7(a)(1), and the notation "This aircraft may not
be operated within the United States", or an equivalent notation approved by the
Administrator of the FAA, must be inserted in the aircraft logbook, or alternate
equivalent document, at the time of installation of the engine.
(8) Any other information the Administrator finds appropriate.
(b) Except as provided in paragraph (d)(1) of this section, no person may
remove, change, or place identification information required by paragraph (a) of
this section, on any aircraft, aircraft engine, propeller, propeller blade, or
propeller hub, without the approval of the Administrator.
(c) Except as provided in paragraph (d)(2) of this section, no person may remove
or install any identification plate required by Sec. 45.11 of this part, without
the approval of the Administrator.
(d) Persons performing work under the provisions of Part 43 of this chapter may,
in accordance with methods, techniques, and practices acceptable to the
Administrator--
(1) Remove, change, or place the identification information required by
paragraph (a) of this section on any aircraft, aircraft engine, propeller,
propeller blade, or propeller hub; or
(2) Remove an identification plate required by Sec. 45.11 when necessary during
maintenance operations.
(e) No person may install an identification plate removed in accordance with
paragraph (d)(2) of this section on any aircraft, aircraft engine, propeller,
propeller blade, or propeller hub other than the one from which it was removed.
Quoting racker(at)rmci.net:
>
> FAR 45.13 cleary states the following is required:
>
> Builder Name
> Model
> S/N
> Engine Type
>
> Did the FAA forget to update their page again ?
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data plate engraving |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Quoting Rick Jory :
>
> Since the subject has been raised, what is meant by "engine type"
> (manufacturer + model number, just manufacturer?). Thanks. Also, it is
> my
> understanding that the builder puts down his own serial number. So if
> he
> wants "001" he's okay (i.e. this has nothing to do with any number
> associated with Van's). Am I correct? Thanks.
> Rick Jory
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
>
> >
> > FAR 45.13 cleary states the following is required:
> >
> > Builder Name
> > Model
> > S/N
> > Engine Type
> >
> > Did the FAA forget to update their page again ?
> >
> > Rob Acker (RV-6)
> >
> >
> > >
> > > By the FARs we only need a plate that has the model and serial
> number
> > > affixed to the fuselage. All the rest of the stuff on the data plate
> is
> > > bunk. Take a look at a spam can and see what they have. We don't
> need
> > > the big ugly dataplate.
> > >
> > > Gary
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Data plate engraving |
The Regs say it must be outside, but, I have seen it inside on the sidewalls
in the baggage compartment. Bottom line, it is up to your FAA inspector.
I used a 1 1/2 X 2 inch piece of scrap stainless steel, had it engraved,
engraving is so fine you almost need a magnifing glass to read it, FAA
inspector asked me to read it to him, his eyes were not that good. I could
not read it either, but since I wrote it, I had it memorized and just
rattled it off to him. In the event that someone really needs the info, it
can be read, just the curious bystander needing bifocals will never read it.
The FAA inspector and I did have a lengthly discussion about it. He told
me that the builder's name must be exactly what was on the registration,
and the minimum information required, for me that was: builders name, model
and serial number. Before his visit, I had to redo the data plate to make
sure the data plate and registration matched EXACTLY for the builders name.
As I said before, it is all up to the FAA inspector.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data plate engraving
>
> Thanks,Bill..
> I was trying to find a nice place INSIDE the cockpit....
> Didn't realize it was supposed to go outside.
> Thought I'd be a little wiser after six years of building .
> Scott in Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Data plate engraving |
The new data plates are quite attractive...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/dataplate.jpg
-Bill
By the FARs we only need a plate that has the model and serial Number
affixed to the fuselage. All the rest of the stuff on the data plate is
bunk.
Take a look at a spam can and see what they have. We don't need the big
ugly dataplate.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: AeroElectric-List: Re: Lightspeed cables? |
There was a discussion a couple of days ago about how to terminate
the coax cables for the Lightspeed EI. I forwarded the question to
the Aeroelectric List, and after some back and forth to help him
understand the function of the coax cable, Bob offered the following
comments.
I've got lots of RG-400, so I think I will go down that road.
Kevin Horton
>Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:49:15 -0500
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Lightspeed cables?
>Sender: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard RIley
>>
>>The co-ax runs between the ignition box and the coils, so it's for power of
>>some form.
>>
>>
>> For power and/or control wires? Spark plug
>> > wires?
>> >
>> > Bob . . .
>
> Hmmmm . . . that's too bad. There's no good reason to do
> this with RF quality coaxial cable.
>
>RE: Lightspeed cables?
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mprather(at)spro.net
>The coax drives the low tension, switched side of the coils. I
>think he uses coax to suppress the rf generated by the sharp
>cutoff that his CDI boxes may generate. I am guess that this is
>probably un-necessary. The outputs from his box are bnc however, so
>you at some point have to switch from coax to straight wire.
>
> Given that you are stuck with BNC connectors, consider
> using RG-400 coax (high temperature, modern insulation)
> that can be terminated quite handily with crimp or solder
> connectors like:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/antenna/antenna.html#s605cm
>
> with tools like:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#rct-2
>
> then terminate the "wired" end using a technique like
> this:
>
> http://209.134.106.21/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
>
> The RG-400 is MUCH easier to work with since the insulations
> used are solder-friendly.
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
Any one with plans to make your own?
Thanks:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: F-622 & F-624 & F-623 baggage side rib?. |
Hi;
If you look at dwg 26 that shows the dimensions of the F-605 bulkhead, you
will see that the fuselage is indeed "wider" across the longerons that at
the bottom of the seat formers. IOW, it tapers inwards towards the bottom so
running a vertical line from the longerons to the F-623 should show some
misalignment and the F-624 will be a bit off vertical. The F-606 obviously
has curved sides so there is no point to looking for a vertical line there
either.
My suggestion: Run the F-622 between the F-605 and F-606 so it ends up
extending the aft fuselage side VA-177 "j-channel" forward in a straight
line to the F-605. The flanges in the j-channel and the F-622 probably point
in different directions but with care you should be able to plan this so the
skin rivet line along these two parts ends up as a straight line. Once the
F-622 is in place, fasten the F-624 to the longeron and make the F-622 and
F-624 flanges meet where these cross. This will establish the location of
the bottom end of the F-624 (top end if you are upside down in the jig)
which is where it will have to meet the F-623. The forward end of the F-623
has to attach to the F-605 to get a smooth skin line there so swing the aft
end in and out slightly to get everything to fit. The location of the aft
end of the F-623 is relatively uncritical because the cone part of the skin
gets formed to a 90 deg curve and touches the bottom of the F-623 and not
the flange area.
If possible, do as much of the above as you can with clamps and then fit the
side and bottom skins on. The idea is to make the skins fit smoothly with
out bumps where the F-622 and F-624 meet and the formers can be fiddled with
to make this happen. The ends of the F-624 will be slightly off 90 degs to
fit the F-623 and longeron.
Cheers, Jim Oke
RV-3 (fly)
RV-6A (wire)
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillRVSIX(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-622 & F-624 & F-623 baggage side rib?.
>
> Hello I have a ? with the f 622 & f 624 & f 623 . If you put a level
> vertically from the bottom longerons to the 622 the 623 is about a 1/2 in.
in
> towards the center. The 624 is a striate part no curve on it. So when
> installed its a half inch out if I move it in to line up with the 623
there
> will be a problem at the intersection of 622 & 624. The 623 is were the
plans
> say to put it 13 5/8 from center. if I move 623 out to line up IM not sure
> what it will do to that coned section on the skin just aft of the 624.
Open
> for suggestions spent way to much time on it already. Thanks
>
> Bill Higgins
> RV-6
> Pembroke MA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
I'm thinking of installing Van's CA LV-3 ventilators in my RV-4. One for
each passenger. Has anyone used these and if so are they any good? I
would also like any comments on where to place them for max cooling, but not
interfere with microphones.
Thanks
Tom Rupe
S/N 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
I installed these late last summer as it get pretty hot here in KS. I
was told that the right side of the canopy was not good due to airflow
so I put one 4" directly in front of the canopy handle and the other one
24" behind the handle. Yes they did help but I was very disappointed
that they don't even begin to blow hard enough to really know they are
open. Maybe someone else has had better luck than me. I have thought
about doing something additional but hate the thought of making more holes.
Greg Hunsicker
N320WS
Topeka, KS
90KS Sunset Strip Airpark
Thomas Rupe wrote:
>--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
>
>I'm thinking of installing Van's CA LV-3 ventilators in my RV-4. One for
>each passenger. Has anyone used these and if so are they any good? I
>would also like any comments on where to place them for max cooling, but not
>interfere with microphones.
>
>Thanks
>Tom Rupe
>S/N 62
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Son Hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold by
Aircraft Spruce.
suggestions appreciated.
Son
RV6A N64SH
----- Original Message -----
From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
> --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
>
>
> I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
> Any one with plans to make your own?
> Thanks:
> Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/24/2002 6:44:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
> I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
Ken Barto is listed in the back of Van's Catalog and in the Yeller Pages. He
makes several different weights.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)aol.com |
If anyone is interested, I'm still collecting names of people looking to
comply with AD 01-23-08 and SB 61-227. It requires aerobatic aircraft to
either have an eddy current test every 150 hours or replace the hub. Even
though the hub is free for "A" suffix props, they must be "0 time"
overhauled. The "no-suffix" hub is 1/2 price or about $1,250, but they only
need to be reassembled. No additional parts or procedures need be applied.
If your interested in seeing if a group discount can be had email me at
"n130bn(at)aol.com".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
My colleague put one on the right side of the canopy skirt just aft of the
rollover structure with the NACA scoop on the outside.When the regulator is
wide open. it lets in so much air that either your eyes water or your
baseball cap is blown off.
The right side seemed fine with a 0-360 engine.
Scott in VAncouver
-6 prepping for paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Ventilation
>
> I installed these late last summer as it get pretty hot here in KS. I
> was told that the right side of the canopy was not good due to airflow
> so I put one 4" directly in front of the canopy handle and the other one
> 24" behind the handle. Yes they did help but I was very disappointed
> that they don't even begin to blow hard enough to really know they are
> open. Maybe someone else has had better luck than me. I have thought
> about doing something additional but hate the thought of making more
holes.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
> N320WS
> Topeka, KS
> 90KS Sunset Strip Airpark
>
> Thomas Rupe wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> >
> >I'm thinking of installing Van's CA LV-3 ventilators in my RV-4. One
for
> >each passenger. Has anyone used these and if so are they any good? I
> >would also like any comments on where to place them for max cooling, but
not
> >interfere with microphones.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tom Rupe
> >S/N 62
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
I bought the "Deluxe Cessna Towbar" from Aircraft Spruce and found that it
will not fit over the RV-6A nose wheel fairing. I fly without the fairing at
this time. I am interested in learning about a towbar that will work. Anyone
on the list know of one?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold by
Aircraft Spruce.
suggestions appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | f-878B angle attach |
Vince,
You get yourself a bucking bar that's about 1" thick and you can hold in
the palm of your hand and you reach inside the spar and ....well you know
the rest. I only had to do it twice on one side. Don't ask why!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
Subject: RV-List: f-878B angle attach
Hello,
I am on the RV8 dwg 30/31 Detail B (also drawing 11) and have come to
part where I am supposed to rivet the f-878B (L/R) angle to the 804 main
spar. This is so you can connect the mid cabin brace (878) from gearbox
to main spar.
Does anyone have a suggestion or trick for bucking this one rivet. I
can barely get my hand in between the spar members let alone a bucking
bar.
Please tell me I can use a 'Pop' rivet.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 SB canoe
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
I had similar experience last summer. The two vents I already had (right
side of fuse, about 4 inches below the canopy hinge, about mid lap for pilot
and pax, work ok, but I wonted more air so installing a vent in the the left
side of the fuselage right above the left wing leading edge. BIG mistake. I
should have known that would be a low pressure area. No air flow whatsoever.
Can anyone provide tips for good vent locations?
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Ventilation
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> I installed these late last summer as it get pretty hot here in KS. I
> was told that the right side of the canopy was not good due to airflow
> so I put one 4" directly in front of the canopy handle and the other one
> 24" behind the handle. Yes they did help but I was very disappointed
> that they don't even begin to blow hard enough to really know they are
> open. Maybe someone else has had better luck than me. I have thought
> about doing something additional but hate the thought of making more
holes.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
> N320WS
> Topeka, KS
> 90KS Sunset Strip Airpark
>
> Thomas Rupe wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> >
> >I'm thinking of installing Van's CA LV-3 ventilators in my RV-4. One
for
> >each passenger. Has anyone used these and if so are they any good? I
> >would also like any comments on where to place them for max cooling, but
not
> >interfere with microphones.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tom Rupe
> >S/N 62
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ELT reset problem |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:50:49 AM
Anyone ever face this problem? I'm posting for a friend.
ELT is checked for proper function. Checks fine. Manual ELT function is
turned on and now it won't stop. Can't reset the thing and Ameriking will
only say to send it in. Anyone been here?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
| Subject: | Ventilation revisited |
I was hoping for more positive comments. Since Aircraft Spruce sells them
with the comment, "A favorite with RV builders", in their description.
Eyeball vents at the instrument panel with the entrance for the hoses in the
rear top engine baffle worked very well on the RV4 I built in 87. I was
hoping for something simpler and more up to date.
Tom Rupe
S/N 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation revisited |
I also have these eyeball vents and they do provide alot of WARM air
into the cockpit. If I could get that much unheated outside air into
the cockpit I would be tickled.
Greg Hunsicker
Thomas Rupe wrote:
>--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
>
>I was hoping for more positive comments. Since Aircraft Spruce sells them
>with the comment, "A favorite with RV builders", in their description.
>
>Eyeball vents at the instrument panel with the entrance for the hoses in the
>rear top engine baffle worked very well on the RV4 I built in 87. I was
>hoping for something simpler and more up to date.
>Tom Rupe
>S/N 62
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
What happens when you remove the batteries?
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT reset problem
Anyone ever face this problem? I'm posting for a friend.
ELT is checked for proper function. Checks fine. Manual ELT function is
turned on and now it won't stop. Can't reset the thing and Ameriking will
only say to send it in. Anyone been here?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
Do like the -8 builders and put them on the bottom of your wings. That
should be high enough pressure.
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Mullins [mailto:smullins(at)drury.edu]
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Ventilation
I had similar experience last summer. The two vents I already had (right
side of fuse, about 4 inches below the canopy hinge, about mid lap for pilot
and pax, work ok, but I wonted more air so installing a vent in the the left
side of the fuselage right above the left wing leading edge. BIG mistake. I
should have known that would be a low pressure area. No air flow whatsoever.
Can anyone provide tips for good vent locations?
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Ventilation
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> I installed these late last summer as it get pretty hot here in KS. I
> was told that the right side of the canopy was not good due to airflow
> so I put one 4" directly in front of the canopy handle and the other one
> 24" behind the handle. Yes they did help but I was very disappointed
> that they don't even begin to blow hard enough to really know they are
> open. Maybe someone else has had better luck than me. I have thought
> about doing something additional but hate the thought of making more
holes.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
> N320WS
> Topeka, KS
> 90KS Sunset Strip Airpark
>
> Thomas Rupe wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> >
> >I'm thinking of installing Van's CA LV-3 ventilators in my RV-4. One
for
> >each passenger. Has anyone used these and if so are they any good? I
> >would also like any comments on where to place them for max cooling, but
not
> >interfere with microphones.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tom Rupe
> >S/N 62
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation revisited |
Hi Guys;
My first order of business after my test flight in
97' on a Alabama 90/90 day was some ventilation. First
I tried rear baffle air routed through the firewall
with a Van's eyeball vent. Lots of Warm/hot air unless
you are at Altitude. Next I tried the Spruce NACA
vents with closable doors on the canopy skirt. Not bad
if you put VG's in front of them per the RV8R article
a couple of years ago. THE BEST place I have seen is
under the wing with the Van's NACA duct system per the
RV8 setup. Lots of cold air. My friend "Slim
Culpepper" also reports very good results with the
Van's NACA vents with the hole cut in the upper nose
panel in front of the canopy on either side. Good
Luck.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Greg Hunsicker wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>
> I also have these eyeball vents and they do provide
> alot of WARM air
> into the cockpit. If I could get that much unheated
> outside air into
> the cockpit I would be tickled.
> Greg Hunsicker
>
> Thomas Rupe wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
>
> >
> >I was hoping for more positive comments. Since
> Aircraft Spruce sells them
> >with the comment, "A favorite with RV builders", in
> their description.
> >
> >Eyeball vents at the instrument panel with the
> entrance for the hoses in the
> >rear top engine baffle worked very well on the RV4
> I built in 87. I was
> >hoping for something simpler and more up to date.
> >Tom Rupe
> >S/N 62
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
10:07:39 AM
I'll have him try that and see, thanks Cy.
Eric
"Cy Galley" (at)matronics.com on 04/25/2002 09:36:00 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
What happens when you remove the batteries?
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT reset problem
Anyone ever face this problem? I'm posting for a friend.
ELT is checked for proper function. Checks fine. Manual ELT function is
turned on and now it won't stop. Can't reset the thing and Ameriking will
only say to send it in. Anyone been here?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
prop than flying would...
There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
-RB4
Son Hoang wrote:
>
> I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold by
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> suggestions appreciated.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com |
This is a test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Well hell... you should've warned me and I could've studied!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Test
>
> This is a test
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
While the 6A and the 4 may weigh about the same the 6A is a tri gear and the 4
is conventional gear. Big difference in how you push them around.
Gary
Quoting Rob Prior :
>
> Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
>
> RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
>
> With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
>
> prop than flying would...
>
> There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
> missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
>
> -RB4
>
> Son Hoang wrote:
>
> >
> > I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold
> by
> > Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> > suggestions appreciated.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Thursday, April 25, 2002, at 10:02 AM, Rob Prior wrote:
> There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
> missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
Backing up ;-)
Bernie Kerr has a really elegant, shop made towbar using Home Depot (the
FAA/PMA aisle, I'm sure) aluminum and pop rivets. It weighs next to
nothing and works well. I'm sure someone could browbeat Bernie into
posting pictures
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV insurance experience |
I thought I would share with the list my recent insurance renewal saga. I
know this has been discussed recently in other contexts (9/11 attack and also
consequences of filing a claim). This story as yet has no ending, but here's
what has been told so far.
My night VFR RV-6A is insured for liability only, and is hangared at home on
a turf strip. I have 225 hours approx. in it, and about 460 hrs total in my
log. No claims have ever been filed; in other words, a clean app. Well, I
do turn 46 this year, so maybe something changes incrementally there. Last
year's AIG premium was $439/yr for 1M/100k liability only. This year, I m
being quoted $622, a 41% increase. I understand there has been an
industry-wide increase of 15-20 % across the board this year. My increase is
double that.
My agent (SkySmith) has been prompt in replying to my queries, but has not
offered any further explanation other than a declining number of companies
willing to write liability-only coverage, hence less competitive quotes. I
have other feelers out for bids, but since my current broker claims to
collect quotes from all potential insurers, it is unlikely there can be a
much better rate out there, right?
For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various forms
of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000 with
a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
Liability only: $622
Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
Note how the liability portion drops if you also get hull coverage in any
form.
Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to protect
the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental collision
damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
I would enjoy hearing what others have encountered with insurance this year.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
So you can steer the plane while moving it. Especially when you are pushing
the airplane backwards, as it keeps the nose wheel from spinning around.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
>
> Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
> RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
>
> With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
> prop than flying would...
>
> There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
> missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
>
> -RB4
>
> Son Hoang wrote:
>
> >
> > I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold by
> > Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> > suggestions appreciated.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
Does the nosewheel on a -6A not caster all the way around?
I'm just trying to understand why people would want to carry around
extra items with them... I was under the impression that the -6A
nosewheel was full-swivelling (it's not linked to the rudder pedals or
anything, right?).
-RB4
James Freeman wrote:
>>There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
>>missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
>
> Backing up ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com |
I currently have an RV6A flying since 1995 with a Lyc 0320-H2AD. I am now
considering other engines to get away from the single mag issue and she is
currently starting to make some metal from the lifters. Rather than rebuild
this engine I am going to buy a runout to rebuild or buy new. As you all know
the 6A has an fit problem due to the engine mount brace for the front wheel.
I have searched the archives and other publications for 6A's to see which
engines are used. So far I found these in 6A's
0360-A1F6D
0320-E2D
0360-A1A
0320-B2A
0320-A2B
I want an 0320 so I don't have to replace the air scoop on my cowling
and I also want a 160 HP.
For those of you flying/building 6A's with 0320-160Hp which engines
will fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Steve & Rob:
The 6A is very hard to steer when putting in the hanger. Becuase of the
design it wants to slam the tail in the oppisite direction when you
change the tow bar. My 2000 # Bonanza was easier than the 6A to steer
backwards.
Dick ( my other friend with an 8A) bought the cheata bar. That bar fits
over the two 3/8 "allen head" screws. the only problem is it don't fit
the heads very well. it is steel & heavy. it trys to hold on with a
spring in the middle of the handle which will come off when you try to
turn. I think if you would re weld new ends on it & design a locking
lever it would be OK. I think he said it was about $45.00.
I bought Ken Barto's from New York for $56.00. He does the same thing
with as little steel tubing that he can so the weight is OK.
The main problem we have is there is not any room to work in there. His
tow has a spring loaded "T" handle that when pulled out lets you just
clear the pant. The pins fit inside the allen heads. Now Van's ships to
short of allen screws, so you go down to the store & buy two one inch
models. Now you get to put about six washers on each side so the pins
will fit. that is almost imposable to install, so you go buy & fit the
lengths of bushings to get it right. Now I do good getting her in the
hanger.
The FAA said they may get out next year so the DAR will be there tonight.
I think I am done.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
> I bought the "Deluxe Cessna Towbar" from Aircraft Spruce and found
> that it
> will not fit over the RV-6A nose wheel fairing. I fly without the
> fairing at
> this time. I am interested in learning about a towbar that will
> work. Anyone
> on the list know of one?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar
> sold by
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> suggestions appreciated.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
Hi James and Rob,
It does not. There are stops designed to keep nose wheel prop interference
Jim
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
>
> Does the nosewheel on a -6A not caster all the way around?
>
> I'm just trying to understand why people would want to carry around
> extra items with them... I was under the impression that the -6A
> nosewheel was full-swivelling (it's not linked to the rudder pedals or
> anything, right?).
>
> -RB4
>
> James Freeman wrote:
>
> >>There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
> >>missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
> >
> > Backing up ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Quoting Rob Prior :
>
> Does the nosewheel on a -6A not caster all the way around?
NO! If it did the prop would chew it up big time.I know at least one lister that
knows this for a fact.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine options |
I'm buying an O-320 D1A (hollow crank). That's another one that will bolt
up to the stock mount with no mods (at least that's what I'm told).
Jim Bower
St. Louis
>From: Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine options
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:48:10 EDT
>
>
>I currently have an RV6A flying since 1995 with a Lyc 0320-H2AD. I am now
>considering other engines to get away from the single mag issue and she is
>currently starting to make some metal from the lifters. Rather than rebuild
>this engine I am going to buy a runout to rebuild or buy new. As you all
>know
>the 6A has an fit problem due to the engine mount brace for the front
>wheel.
>I have searched the archives and other publications for 6A's to see which
>engines are used. So far I found these in 6A's
> 0360-A1F6D
> 0320-E2D
> 0360-A1A
> 0320-B2A
> 0320-A2B
> I want an 0320 so I don't have to replace the air scoop on my
>cowling
>and I also want a 160 HP.
> For those of you flying/building 6A's with 0320-160Hp which
>engines
>will fit.
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine options |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
Making metal is a bad thing, but the single mag drive issue can be
addressed by installed a single mag in place of the dual and running
electronic ignition.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> I currently have an RV6A flying since 1995 with a Lyc 0320-H2AD. I am
> now considering other engines to get away from the single mag issue
> and she is currently starting to make some metal from the lifters.
> Rather than rebuild this engine I am going to buy a runout to rebuild
> or buy new. As you all know the 6A has an fit problem due to the
> engine mount brace for the front wheel. I have searched the archives
> and other publications for 6A's to see which engines are used. So far
> I found these in 6A's
> 0360-A1F6D
> 0320-E2D
> 0360-A1A
> 0320-B2A
> 0320-A2B
> I want an 0320 so I don't have to replace the air scoop on my
> cowling
> and I also want a 160 HP.
> For those of you flying/building 6A's with 0320-160Hp which
> engines
> will fit.
>
>
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | ELT reset problem |
Eric,
We had this same problem. We sent it in and they wanted $129 to fix it.
They told me it needed a new component, but would not tell me what the
problem was. I did not have the receipt, so they would not cover it under
warranty. It is suppose to be under warranty for 2 years. I ended up
buying another unit because those people at Amer-King are so difficult to
deal with and a new one it $184. I am going to have them mail my old unit
back to me for parts.
Tell your friend good luck!
Patty Gillies
RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: RV-List: ELT reset problem
Anyone ever face this problem? I'm posting for a friend.
ELT is checked for proper function. Checks fine. Manual ELT function is
turned on and now it won't stop. Can't reset the thing and Ameriking will
only say to send it in. Anyone been here?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
What a coincidence. I got a call from JTs office yesterday on my renewal
for my RV-6A, with Nation Air. The cost has gone up $69 this time. There
was a 10% increase across the board, and I got my standard -3% discount for
renewing. The former price was around a thousand and now is around 1100.
Sorry I didn't write down the exact numbers. Should get a bill in a few
days. This is for a million and hull value of 65, with full motion.
I am 65+ and have been flying since Pontius was a co pilot, but only have
6500 hours or so. Have been flying the 6A pretty regularily for last 5
years, for 975 hours. No instrument rate currently.
J T Helms does get on the list once in a while. I have put my trust in him
and he has come through. (Un) fortunately, have never made a claim so can't
speak for their record in that department.
In general I will say that AVemCo, my former insurer has been going up while
JTs insurance has been going down except for this year. In fact I was
pleasantly surprised to only get stabbed for $69.
DLW
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:53:24 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV insurance experience
>
>
> I thought I would share with the list my recent insurance renewal saga. I
> know this has been discussed recently in other contexts (9/11 attack and also
> consequences of filing a claim). This story as yet has no ending, but here's
> what has been told so far.
>
> My night VFR RV-6A is insured for liability only, and is hangared at home on
> a turf strip. I have 225 hours approx. in it, and about 460 hrs total in my
> log. No claims have ever been filed; in other words, a clean app. Well, I
> do turn 46 this year, so maybe something changes incrementally there. Last
> year's AIG premium was $439/yr for 1M/100k liability only. This year, I m
> being quoted $622, a 41% increase. I understand there has been an
> industry-wide increase of 15-20 % across the board this year. My increase is
> double that.
>
> My agent (SkySmith) has been prompt in replying to my queries, but has not
> offered any further explanation other than a declining number of companies
> willing to write liability-only coverage, hence less competitive quotes. I
> have other feelers out for bids, but since my current broker claims to
> collect quotes from all potential insurers, it is unlikely there can be a
> much better rate out there, right?
>
> For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various forms
> of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000 with
> a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
>
> Liability only: $622
> Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
>
> Note how the liability portion drops if you also get hull coverage in any
> form.
>
> Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to protect
> the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental collision
> damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
>
> I would enjoy hearing what others have encountered with insurance this year.
>
> -Bill B
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | procom(at)avantel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ref: Re: RV6-List: starters |
La Direccion del Ing. Miguel Ramirez cambio a
volador(at)avantel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | procom(at)avantel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ref: Re: RV6-List: starters |
La Direccion del Ing. Miguel Ramirez cambio a
volador(at)avantel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | procom(at)avantel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ref: Re: RV6-List: starters |
La Direccion del Ing. Miguel Ramirez cambio a
volador(at)avantel.net.
gracias
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | procom(at)avantel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ref: Re: RV6-List: starters |
La Direccion del Ing. Miguel Ramirez cambio a
volador(at)avantel.net.
gracias
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03:10:06 PM
I'm involved in trying to find insurance on a F1 Rocket right now. I've
been talking to Scott at Skysmith quite a bit. My feeling is, the insurance
companies are in serious risk reduction mode while trying to see what the
economy is going to do. I'm in the bank business so every one else is doing
the same thing right now, name of the game is survive this economic dip
baby. The insurance industry is like a long tailed cat in a room full of
rocking chairs. What I have gathered is, if you can get insurance on your
planes, you are one of the lucky ones. The RV6 and -4 is golden by
homebuilt standards and the -8 is in there somewhere close. The fast glass
boys and big engine guys have challenges facing them. This is what I'm
finding as the current situation. I'm sure this will pass as things
hopfully get back to normal and the industry relaxes back to what it was.
In the mean time stay with who you have.
Just my opinion, but I'm pretty convinced its set up so you can't shop
these guys against one another.
Eric
SportAV8R(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/25/2002 11:53:24 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV insurance experience
I thought I would share with the list my recent insurance renewal saga. I
know this has been discussed recently in other contexts (9/11 attack and
also
consequences of filing a claim). This story as yet has no ending, but
here's
what has been told so far.
My night VFR RV-6A is insured for liability only, and is hangared at home
on
a turf strip. I have 225 hours approx. in it, and about 460 hrs total in
my
log. No claims have ever been filed; in other words, a clean app. Well, I
do turn 46 this year, so maybe something changes incrementally there. Last
year's AIG premium was $439/yr for 1M/100k liability only. This year, I m
being quoted $622, a 41% increase. I understand there has been an
industry-wide increase of 15-20 % across the board this year. My increase
is
double that.
My agent (SkySmith) has been prompt in replying to my queries, but has not
offered any further explanation other than a declining number of companies
willing to write liability-only coverage, hence less competitive quotes. I
have other feelers out for bids, but since my current broker claims to
collect quotes from all potential insurers, it is unlikely there can be a
much better rate out there, right?
For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various
forms
of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000
with
a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
Liability only: $622
Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
Note how the liability portion drops if you also get hull coverage in any
form.
Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to
protect
the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental
collision
damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
I would enjoy hearing what others have encountered with insurance this
year.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length |
I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and the oil dipstick hits my cowling. Can someone tell
me the part number or length from the case to the top of the dipstick tube
(not including the dipstick) on their RV-4?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "der_Jagdflieger" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
BOGART makes one for RV's that works well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Son Hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Son Hoang"
>
> I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold
by
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> suggestions appreciated.
>
> Son
> RV6A N64SH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
> >
> >
> > I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
> > Any one with plans to make your own?
> > Thanks:
> > Doyal
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | ELT reset problem |
I have an Artex 200 with a nice conformal antenna bonded on the inside
of my fuselage. It costs more than most (300) but it's high quality and
made in the USA.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad Werner
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
The ACK perhaps??
Did anyone have a bad experience with ACK as well, and if so, what was
wrong?
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
Today, a lister wrote to me with this advice:
> Bill,
> Personally, I would strongly urge you to not insure with AIG.
>
Well, as it turns out, I won't be. J T Helms called me today and found
liability coverage with another A-plus insurer for 24% less than I had been
paying last year, and 42% less than I was about to pay AIG to renew next
month. Guess who now has my aircraft insurance business?!
I never had a bad experience with SkySmith, but for some reason they didn't
find this outfit when asked to get me the best rate possible, so, like so
many things, this becomes a financially driven decision that is "nothing
personal" against them. Whoever stated recently that "J T is 'Da Man' for RV
insurance" must have known what they were talking about.
The new rates I was just quoted are so much better, I am seriously
considering adding hull coverage, just to be safe. While it would be nice,
in a way, to have an excuse to replace a damaged -6A with a new -7A, I would
hate to do so without an insurance check to fund the project! I will let the
list know if there are any glitches with the VanGuard program, but I
certainly don't anticipate any.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length |
Mike,
Here's what I did: measure the distance from your case to the top of your cowl.
Whack off the appropriate amount of the dipstick tube in the middle somewhere.
Take a piece of scrap aileron push tube and join the two
halves together with some proseal and pop rivets. Pull the roll pin off
the top of your dipstick and remove the same amount off the top of the dipstick
as you did the tube. Other guys have used a piece of PVC to join
the two tube halves together. Whatever works, it's not a big deal. Mine's worked
fine for 12 years now.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Firewall Forward
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: N8292W(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and the oil dipstick hits my cowling. Can someone tell
me the part number or length from the case to the top of the dipstick tube
(not including the dipstick) on their RV-4?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring
April 16, 2002 - April 25, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ms