RV-Archive.digest.vol-mt
April 25, 2002 - May 02, 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
has anyone tried by passing the heat muf. and drawing fresh air in that way?
works pretty good for me.
regards
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
Please expand your comment on the heat muff. I don't understand?
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>--> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
>has anyone tried by passing the heat muf. and drawing fresh air in that way?
>works pretty good for me.
>
>regards
>dan carley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
nevermind the space between BY and PASSING threw me. I will look into
that idea.
Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>--> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>Please expand your comment on the heat muff. I don't understand?
>
>DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>>
>>has anyone tried by passing the heat muf. and drawing fresh air in that way?
>>works pretty good for me.
>>
>>regards
>>dan carley
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | damper for oil cooler inlet air |
Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing alot from day
to day.
Greg Hunsicker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
I now have proof of how I made my RV so light... Remember when I said
it's easy to make it light if you don't have any money to put all the
fancy crap in? Well... I added up all my receipts the other night and
I came up with a total of $32,985... This is without paint... Add a 5%
fudge factor for misc. and lost receipts and I'm still in for under
$35K!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection tomorrow, then who knows?!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air |
Yes, I added a damper this winter and it works great. I used an manual
auto-choke cable from the autoparts store ($6.00) and a servo arm from my
old RC modeling days attached to the end of a wooden dowl that is, in turn,
attached to a thin, plywood 'valve'.
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
> cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing alot from day
> to day.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
Bill
I have almost the exact quote from Nation Air, JT Helms on my RV6. A friend
with a Murphy Rebel (0-320) has a quote with AIG for Liability, hull,
inflight for $1200. Maybe the Murphy Rebel is a safer risk?
Bob
> For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various
forms
> of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000
with
> a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
>
> Liability only: $622
> Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
>
>
> Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to
protect
> the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental
collision
> damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV insurance experience
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:38:14 -0700
Bill
I have almost the exact quote from Nation Air, JT Helms on my RV6. A friend
with a Murphy Rebel (0-320) has a quote with AIG for Liability, hull,
inflight for $1200. Maybe the Murphy Rebel is a safer risk?
Bob
> For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various
forms
> of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000
with
> a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
>
> Liability only: $622
> Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
> Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
>
>
> Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to
protect
> the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental
collision
> damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
>
>
Better check with JT on insurance. I have had Avemco for the past 4.5 years
and pay $420 Liability only for $1M coverage. Will be changing to JT when
my policy comes up for renewal in July. JT gave me a quote too low to
repeat.
Yes I fly alot plus have a lot of RV hours so do get a very good rate.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,019.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine options |
In a message dated 4/25/02 9:50:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com writes:
> A2B
> I want an 0320 so I don't have to replace the air scoop on my
> cowling
> and I also want a 160 HP.
>
How about using an 0320E2A(low compression) with a Powerflow Performance
Exaust system and a change in prop pitch? You would have alot more than
160HP, but would still be able to use auto fuel. The engine would perform
like an 0360, and the heavier exaust only adds 3# of weight. There is also a
fuel saving to be seen.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How So Light? |
Good work Bill. Now write and article on how to build a RV-8A on a budget and
get it published
Gary
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I now have proof of how I made my RV so light... Remember when I said
> it's easy to make it light if you don't have any money to put all the
> fancy crap in? Well... I added up all my receipts the other night and
> I came up with a total of $32,985... This is without paint... Add a 5%
> fudge factor for misc. and lost receipts and I'm still in for under
> $35K!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV - Inspection tomorrow, then who knows?!
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IC-A22 Accessories |
Try Gulf Coast Avonics
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hi all... I am in need of a headset adapter, PTT adapter, and A/C
> adapter for an Icom IC-A22 handheld NAV/Comm... If you have any of
> these that you don't need or want any longer please contact me off
> list...
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill
> bill(at)vondane.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
How about a Cessna towbar? All you need to capture is the bolts on the end
of the axle. Works on the tailwheel on my -8 anyway.
Dick White
N94DW test flying
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Son Hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
>
> I have the same question and have been looking into some tow bar sold by
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> suggestions appreciated.
>
> Son
> RV6A N64SH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
> >
> >
> > I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
> > Any one with plans to make your own?
> > Thanks:
> > Doyal
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Ok, so let's say I have a Navaid or similar wing leveler installed in my RV (I
don't yet). Now I want to add altitude hold. (I know...I'm a wussy, but I'm just
thinking here....I know, that can be dangerous).
Is there anybody out there (like Stec's 30Alt) that makes a stand alone Alt Hold
gizmo that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (ie, not TSO'd)?
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | damper for oil cooler inlet air |
I have the cooler firewall mounted, with a 3" scat running into a
homemade plenum containing a cockpit adjustable throttle. The coldest
weather I flew in this winter was about 5F, and with the throttle open
the oil ran about 150F, and with the throttle closed it ran about 194F.
Highly recommend it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 138 hours
>
>
> Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
> cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing
> alot from day
> to day.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYBOYRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
Tom, I also would like to get more air during the hot months. What are these
vents that your talking about? I have the naca vents and they don't work for
beans. Can you advise? Hey I noticed the serial # 62, you are a charter
member of Van's , My Dad also had the good judgement to pick a winner also.
You/We built them with very little to go on, just the plans and materials. We
are # 111 . Quick Build, hell: we had the Slow Torture, What Changes This
Month? Build. Jim Mandeville RV-4 # 111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Owens wrote:
>
>
> Ok, so let's say I have a Navaid or similar wing leveler installed in my RV (I
don't yet). Now I want to add altitude hold. (I know...I'm a wussy, but I'm
just thinking here....I know, that can be dangerous).
>
> Is there anybody out there (like Stec's 30Alt) that makes a stand alone Alt Hold
gizmo that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (ie, not TSO'd)?
>
> TIA,
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
----------------
Laird, here is a link for an inexpensive altitude hold gadget, but I
don't know how well it works or if it is still available:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
You must have some flavor of electric elevator trim since it controls
altitude via the trim tab.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stark Avionics pirep (long) |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi all--just wanted to pass along my recent experience with an avionics
upgrade through John Stark at Stark Avionics in Columbus, GA (CSG).
There are numerous posts in the archives recommending John as probably the
cheapest source for new avionics, and a willingness to work with
homebuilders. This is certainly true for mail order, but I was willing to
try his installation skills after some frustrating (and expensive)
experiences locally.
In our C337, I asked John to bid removal of a Cessna/ARC audio panel, one
of two RT 485s, a narco DME and old intercom and replace them with a
Garmin GNS 430 and 340 audiopanel/intercom. This included interfacing
with the HSI and 400B autopilot. He gave me a firm price of $9700 total.
Typical bids for this work are in the $11-14,000 range with lots of
waffling. "Well, about $12,000, but could be more, no telling what we'll
find in one a them old skythrashers....."
John also promised he'd be done in a week (This is astonishing speed for
an avionics shop in my experience).
When I showed up (late due to weather) they were waiting for me. The had
used the delay to pre build most of the wiring harness. He was careful to
sit in the airplane with me and ask the necessary questions about my
preferences, and any idiosyncrasies of the radio stack.
I had to pick the airplane up a few days late due to a combination of my
totally inflexible schedule (returning from SnF trying to beat weather)
and a miscommunication which resulted in the airplane being not quite
ready (the hadn't covered the access panels or reinstalled all of the
interior because they thought I was coming that afternoon rather than
morning).
John (who wasn't there at the time) called me as soon as I got home and
freely admitted his error. He was professional and apologetic, and told
me it was really, really ready now.
When I came back, the airplane looked and worked great. He had wired
stereo jacks to all six seats (I originally had mono jacks to four seats).
the HSI was coupled, he had even kept the old VOR/Loran selector so I
could use the Northstar Loran to drive the HSI and Autopilot if the Garmin
went TU.
John had also rebuilt my #2 NAV head, fixed some small annoying problems
with my other radios, and yellow-tagged the Narco DME so I could sell it
more easily. All of this he did free, pointing out the trouble I had gone
to making two trips to fetch the plane.
He walked me through the basics of using the radios, and was careful to
point out the importance of flight testing the installation before flying
hard IFR.
It is rare to see this level of service any more, especially from a "low
cost" source. It was by far the best experience I've ever had with an
avionics shop.
I hope this is useful to somebody (or if not I hope you hit "delete" about
10 paragraphs ago;-o)
James Freeman
RV8 finish sloooowly
C337/G wooohooooo!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
Hi Doyal. I use a tow bar for cessna aircraft. I have a bolt on each side
of the nose wheel that it fits on. If you do not have the bolts you could
install them they hold my nose wheel pants on. or you could use the nose
wheel axle.
Ted Fields
Guymon OK.
N8706D PA 22 & N4344X Experimental RV6 A
----- Original Message -----
From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV6-List: TOW BARS?
> --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
>
>
> I need something to pull my RV6A around with! Who makes tow bars?
> Any one with plans to make your own?
> Thanks:
> Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: IC-A22 Accessories |
You might also try your local ham radio store - I believe that they use the
same accessories.
Dave
Earl Fortner wrote:
>
> Try Gulf Coast Avonics
>
> Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi all... I am in need of a headset adapter, PTT adapter, and A/C
> > adapter for an Icom IC-A22 handheld NAV/Comm... If you have any of
> > these that you don't need or want any longer please contact me off
> > list...
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -Bill
> > bill(at)vondane.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Cliff Caddy no longer makes the altitude hold.
Dave
>
> ----------------
>
> Laird, here is a link for an inexpensive altitude hold gadget, but I
> don't know how well it works or if it is still available:
>
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
>
> You must have some flavor of electric elevator trim since it controls
> altitude via the trim tab.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
>Bill
>
>I have almost the exact quote from Nation Air, JT Helms on my RV6. A friend
>with a Murphy Rebel (0-320) has a quote with AIG for Liability, hull,
>inflight for $1200. Maybe the Murphy Rebel is a safer risk?
I was told by an AIG agent that the premium for hull was only a factor of
how much you were insuring it for, given the same location coverage (like
in flight, parked only, etc.) If the Murphy Rebel guy was only insuring it
for $30K, then it would be cheaper than one insured for $50K. What does
matter is pilot hours and experience, which also effects premium.
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Re: How So Light? |
Here's a quick breakdown... I still need to go through a pile of stuff
at the hangar... I found the receipt for the exhaust, but that's about
it...
Tools = $1515
Didn't get no pneumatic squeezer!
Kit = $17,333
Freight = $599
The only extras I bought were the rear throttle and rudder pedals, and
the manual aileron trim. I have manual trims and ground adjustable
rudder pedals...
FWF = $8032
I bought a 3400 hour O320-E3D with 1400 SMOH & 380 STOH for $6000. I
bought a used but never flown Sterba prop complete with spacer, bolts,
and spinner kit for $650. I did get a Vetterman exhaust...
Panel/Wiring = $5262
Minimal VFR instrumentation... Instruments from Van's & I got a rebuilt
Cessna Needle & Ball from someone off this list... I bought a 2 Cyl.
EIS with MAP for monitoring the engine, Microair 2 1/8" radios, and an
LRI...
Lights = $500
I found a complete Whelen light kit with PS for $400 and installed my
own landing light design with home grown Wig-Wag...
Misc. = $267
This may be higher, hence the fudge factor...
Primer/Paint = $177
Sherwin Williams 988 self etching primer in rattle cans, and Cardinal
enamel to match Van's Powder Coat in rattle cans to for the interior...
I made the front seat of regular old foam and my wife covered it with an
old curtain for the test flight period...
Total = $33,685.....Add 5% for fudge factor = $35,369
All I can say is IT CAN BE DONE! These things don't have to break the
bank! It may not be the fasted or prettiest, but it's mine, it flies
(or will soon) and it's paid for!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: rv9builder [mailto:rv9builder(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Re: How So Light?
> I came up with a total of $32,985... This is without paint...
Hey Bill,
That's impressive. Tell us how you did it!
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IC-A22 Accessories |
I found some real good prices at Marv Golden... I always find good
prices there: http://www.marvgolden.com/default1.htm
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: IC-A22 Accessories
You might also try your local ham radio store - I believe that they use
the same accessories.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler door |
In a message dated 4/25/2002 2:16:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com writes:
> Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
> cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing alot from day
> to day.
Absolutely! Info for mine is in the archives, but it is on the outlet of my
Niagara oil cooler which is mounted on the left rear baffle (behind Lyc cyl
#4). They are quite simple to implement and they work fine.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Is it easier to install a vernatherm instead?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/fwf/panel/selling organs for cash
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2002 2:16:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com writes:
>
>
> Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
> cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing
> alot from day to day.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | 8 heater box location |
I have the square SS heater box from Van's. I'm thinking of mounting it
beneath the battery tray on the firewall, such that it can be ducted
through the deep part of the RV-8 baggage area to a vent next to the
gearbox. This will hopefully heat the cabin more evenly rather than
cooking my feet and leaving the rest of me cool (ala the Ford Explorer
heater). Anyone else done this? Any problems? Will I toast my
battery?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: TOW BARS? |
> Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
> RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
>
> With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
> prop than flying would...
>
> There may be a completely obvious reason for the tow-bar that i'm
> missing, but if there is, it escapes me...
>
The problem is when you're trying to push the plane backwards over an uneven
or unpaved surface. The 20 feet in front of my hangar is gravel, and it
would be impossible to back the 8A in without a towbar - the nosewheel
swivels rapidly to one side, and you end up going back and forth trying to
keep it straight. On a smooth, paved surface, you can look down at the
nosewheel and gently push it back just by pushing on the prop.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
117 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
All,
Scott and Jean Smith - Sky Smith - are highly recommended not only on the
basis of cost but just as importantly for service!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A Niantic, CT
>From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV insurance experience
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:53:24 EDT
>
>
>I thought I would share with the list my recent insurance renewal saga. I
>know this has been discussed recently in other contexts (9/11 attack and
>also
>consequences of filing a claim). This story as yet has no ending, but
>here's
>what has been told so far.
>
>My night VFR RV-6A is insured for liability only, and is hangared at home
>on
>a turf strip. I have 225 hours approx. in it, and about 460 hrs total in
>my
>log. No claims have ever been filed; in other words, a clean app. Well, I
>do turn 46 this year, so maybe something changes incrementally there. Last
>year's AIG premium was $439/yr for 1M/100k liability only. This year, I m
>being quoted $622, a 41% increase. I understand there has been an
>industry-wide increase of 15-20 % across the board this year. My increase
>is
>double that.
>
>My agent (SkySmith) has been prompt in replying to my queries, but has not
>offered any further explanation other than a declining number of companies
>willing to write liability-only coverage, hence less competitive quotes. I
>have other feelers out for bids, but since my current broker claims to
>collect quotes from all potential insurers, it is unlikely there can be a
>much better rate out there, right?
>
>For your reading enjoyment, here are the quotes I was given for various
>forms
>of coverage, including hull coverage, on an agreed hull value of $60,000
>with
>a $100 deductible. All are from AIG:
>
>Liability only: $622
>Liability @ $498 + Hull not in motion@ $454 = $952.
>Liability @ $498 + Hull, ground & taxi@ $567 = $1065.
>Liability @ $498 + Hull, in flight @$ 1021 = $1519.
>
>Note how the liability portion drops if you also get hull coverage in any
>form.
>
>Has anyone else had comparable experience? Paying out $2/day just to
>protect
>the trees in the George Washington National Forest from incidental
>collision
>damage in the event I crash seems really steep :-)
>
>I would enjoy hearing what others have encountered with insurance this
>year.
>
>-Bill B
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | trim servo speed & MKIII |
I'm looking for a way to configure my electric elevator trim to allow
high speed trim in the pattern (flaps down) and adjustable lower speed
trim in cruise (via speed controller) using a micro switch to sense flap
position. My problem being I already have the Matronics MKIII which
when I purchased it, according to Vans takes the place of the servo
relay deck and the speed controller. It seems easy to wire in a micro
switch if I had both relay and controller but I wondered if anyone has
any ideas to bypass the speed control function of the MKIII or am I
forced to go back to the other 2 devices?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8 heater box location |
Larry,
We mounted our's on the lower right hand (looking foward from the cockpit)
on the fire wall. It has worked well. In addition, it the least busy
location and is close to our Robbins meat muffle (which is a tight fit on a
IO-360 (right rear exhaust best fit location).
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV8A Niantic, CT
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: 8 heater box location
>Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 00:25:36 -0400
>
>
>I have the square SS heater box from Van's. I'm thinking of mounting it
>beneath the battery tray on the firewall, such that it can be ducted
>through the deep part of the RV-8 baggage area to a vent next to the
>gearbox. This will hopefully heat the cabin more evenly rather than
>cooking my feet and leaving the rest of me cool (ala the Ford Explorer
>heater). Anyone else done this? Any problems? Will I toast my
>battery?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Owen,
Cliff Caddy makes an altitude hold device called the EZ-Trim. I bought one these units, with the necessary relays, to compliment my Navaid installation. His website is http://hometown.aol.com/ccady/eztrim.htm
Fabian
RV-9A
(Fuselage)
>>> owens(at)aerovironment.com 04/25/02 08:56PM >>>
Ok, so let's say I have a Navaid or similar wing leveler installed in my RV (I
don't yet). Now I want to add altitude hold. (I know...I'm a wussy, but I'm just
thinking here....I know, that can be dangerous).
Is there anybody out there (like Stec's 30Alt) that makes a stand alone Alt Hold
gizmo that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (ie, not TSO'd)?
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
, ,
,
Cliff,
Are you completely out of the business? A number of people including
myself are searching for some kind of altitude hold to use with Navaid.
Most of the RV's being finished nowdays (7's, 8's, & 9's) have Mac Servo
Elevator Trim as Standard. Many (mine included) also feature a Rocky
Mountain uEncoder which has serialized air data (vert speed) output. I
addition I have a PCFlightsystems electronic gyros setup.
With all this electronic input data available; I would think building an
altitude hold utilizing the Mac 8A trim servo would be easy for an
electronics guru.
If not a finished product I would welcome a kit or at least design dwgs.
and setup instructions.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
Guys;
I was out running around "LA" (lower alabama)
yesterday in the heat. My NACA vents work great now
that I have the VG's in front of them. The VG's were
in a RV8R issue several years ago before all these
"flat cowl" matched hole side by side and nosegear
RV's showed up....ha! They greatly increase the
airflow if you position them like they showed. They
should be about 4 inches forward of the vent about 2
inches apart angled 30 degrees down on the top one and
up on the bottom one. Give it a try..
Rob Ray
--- FLYBOYRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: FLYBOYRV4(at)aol.com
>
> Tom, I also would like to get more air during the
> hot months. What are these
> vents that your talking about? I have the naca vents
> and they don't work for
> beans. Can you advise? Hey I noticed the serial #
> 62, you are a charter
> member of Van's , My Dad also had the good judgement
> to pick a winner also.
> You/We built them with very little to go on, just
> the plans and materials. We
> are # 111 . Quick Build, hell: we had the Slow
> Torture, What Changes This
> Month? Build. Jim Mandeville RV-4 # 111
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
Dan;
Any air that passes through my cowling before it
gets to me in the Alabama summer is HOT! Unless of
course you are above 10K. Mark S. of the TVRVBG and
Pat M. both have underwing NACA vents on their RV4's
with excellent results. It's tough to retrofit them
but do-able.
The Van's vent kits are nice, you can get them direct
off the net and they glue on with pro-seal. If you
don't want the work of the underwing, you can place
them on the side of the fuselage next to where your
knee is , forward of the leading edge angled slightly
downward...
Rob
--- Greg Hunsicker wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
>
> nevermind the space between BY and PASSING threw me.
> I will look into
> that idea.
>
> Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> >
> >Please expand your comment on the heat muff. I
> don't understand?
> >
> >DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >>--> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
> >>
> >>has anyone tried by passing the heat muf. and
> drawing fresh air in that way?
> >>works pretty good for me.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>dan carley
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8 heater box location |
I have the aft battery in mine and installed the stainless heaterbox by aviacomp
so air will be ducted through the side baggage. I then have an aluminum eyball
vent mounted on the aft side of the side baggage (next to the RH gear tower).
Havent flown yet but I anticipate this will work better in an attempt to evenly
heat things...need that up here where the snow flies.
John Link
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Pulling planes around |
Assymmetric load on the prop, possibly eventually leading to
some sort of long-term problem?
A friend of mine belongs to a flying club that has a Cirrus.
He pointed out all SORTS of places Cirrus doesn't want you
pushing or pulling, including the prop.
I've also been told not to push or pull on my FBO's Mooney's
prop. I was told by my CFI that C/S props especially don't
like being pushed on.
And hands-off the spinner on all my FBO's planes.
I have no idea how much of this info is just under the "we don't
do it that way" category vs. "we don't do it BECAUSE"
category.
-J
>
> Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
> RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
>
> With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
> prop than flying would...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
Okay, was this price labor only or include the equipment? Tell me
it didn't cost $9700 just to swap out some equipment you already
owned.
If it included the cost of equipment -- I thought the GNS 430 was
a $10k item by itself. Maybe that's 10k installed, list price?
-J, showing more ignorance
> In our C337, I asked John to bid removal of a Cessna/ARC audio panel, one
> of two RT 485s, a narco DME and old intercom and replace them with a
> Garmin GNS 430 and 340 audiopanel/intercom. This included interfacing
> with the HSI and 400B autopilot. He gave me a firm price of $9700 total.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler door |
In a message dated 4/25/2002 9:12:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
> Is it easier to install a vernatherm instead?
>
Vernatherm is installed and fully functional. The Vernatherm just doesn't do
the entire job if there are large fluctuations in outside temperature where
you fly. When I used to tour on my motorcycle I to be ready for any kind of
weather, from arctic cold to desert heat. Going up and down the left coast
all year long you will find these same variables.
The oil cooler door allows for an additional 30-40 degrees F of temperature
rise to ensure you are driving out the moisture. Same as installing a
winterization kit but you can do it in real time.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
The reasons are not explained but on page 33 of my Hartzell Propeller Manual
No. 115 N it says "DO NOT move aircraft by pulling on the propeller blades."
My guess for the reason is that if you pull on a blade out towards the tip
you have a huge mechanical leverage on the hub. I do occasionally push or
pull on the prop but am careful to use both hands and keep them tight to the
spinner.
Eustace Bowhay, Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Pulling planes around
>
> Assymmetric load on the prop, possibly eventually leading to
> some sort of long-term problem?
>
> A friend of mine belongs to a flying club that has a Cirrus.
> He pointed out all SORTS of places Cirrus doesn't want you
> pushing or pulling, including the prop.
>
> I've also been told not to push or pull on my FBO's Mooney's
> prop. I was told by my CFI that C/S props especially don't
> like being pushed on.
>
> And hands-off the spinner on all my FBO's planes.
>
> I have no idea how much of this info is just under the "we don't
> do it that way" category vs. "we don't do it BECAUSE"
> category.
>
> -J
>
> >
> > Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
> > RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> > imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
> >
> > With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> > pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
> > prop than flying would...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
While at SNF I asked the folks at the Hartzell booth why their props have the
sticker on them "Do not push or pull by prop" (or something to that effect).
They said it was a safety/liability issue. If a mag was still hot .... etc.
Not because the prop can't handle it. If you do it, use two blades, grabbing
at the root.
-Larry
--- Joe Larson wrote:
>
> Assymmetric load on the prop, possibly eventually leading to
> some sort of long-term problem?
>
> A friend of mine belongs to a flying club that has a Cirrus.
> He pointed out all SORTS of places Cirrus doesn't want you
> pushing or pulling, including the prop.
>
> I've also been told not to push or pull on my FBO's Mooney's
> prop. I was told by my CFI that C/S props especially don't
> like being pushed on.
>
> And hands-off the spinner on all my FBO's planes.
>
> I have no idea how much of this info is just under the "we don't
> do it that way" category vs. "we don't do it BECAUSE"
> category.
>
> -J
>
> >
> > Forgive what may be a silly question, but I was just out in a friend's
> > RV-4 this week, and pushed it around a bit on the ground. I can't
> > imaging a -6A would be much heavier when empty.
> >
> > With that in mind, why would you want a tow-bar, instead of pushing/
> > pulling on the prop? Certainly a person couldn't put more load on the
> > prop than flying would...
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Torquing RV8 landing gear |
I cannot find the answer to this in the archives, so please can I have the collective
experience of the list members?
What is the best way to torque the landing gear bolts in the RV-8? Do you use
a socket with universal joint and 15" extension on the nut inside the lg box,
or do you hold the nut with an open end wrench and use the socket and torque
wrench on the bolt head? I called Vans and Ken said he had no idea, use whatever
works best.
I managed to use the first method during trial assembly before I put in all the
8-32 screws and nuts, but now I am concerned that the nuts will interfer with
the socket.
A secondary question is that I presume the hardened washer should be under the
part that moves. If you torque from the outside, the washer should be under the
bolt head, not under the nut. Agree?
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
In a message dated 04/26/2002 11:01:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jpl(at)showpage.org writes:
> Assymmetric load on the prop, possibly eventually leading to
> some sort of long-term problem?
>
> A friend of mine belongs to a flying club that has a Cirrus.
> He pointed out all SORTS of places Cirrus doesn't want you
> pushing or pulling, including the prop.
>
>
Maybe it is an old wive's tale, Joe. I always assumed it was. My prop (and
all the others I know of) have asymmetric disc loading in climb and cruise,
so if there were a potential long term problem from this, it would result
from normal operation, not manual tugging. And when I drag my -6A around by
the snout, I am grasping the roots of the prop blades, and putting much less
force on the crankshaft thrust bearing than the hundreds of pounds of thrust
produced by the prop in flight, so I just don't follow the argument. Look at
how you have to lean on a prop with a pitch bar to tweak even the smallest
change in pitch or tracking; pulling a prop at the roots bare-handed doesn't
even come close to applying this kind of force. Anyway, I usually taxi
straight in to my hangar under modest power, shut down, get out, and do a
3-point turn by hand, pulling/pushing on the prop (no tow bar required.)
With the nose wheel hard over against the stop, I can make a tight turn where
the inside main wheel actually rolls backward in a small circle, and the
3-point turn becomes unnecessary to stay well clear of the workbenches,
shelves, and fuel storage tanks that line the walls of my 36-foot wide
hangar. Amazing what these little planes can be coaxed to do on the ground,
much less in the air.
-Bill B
RV-6A - no tracking error after years of prop abuse on the ground...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler door |
There are a whole lot of ways to install an oil cooler door. If you want to see
how my contraption has metemorphed go to: http://solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
I am just about ready to take to the airport so it is not tested. I will
probably adjust it somewhat (redesign) along the way at least once more.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2002 9:12:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
>
> > Is it easier to install a vernatherm instead?
> >
> Vernatherm is installed and fully functional. The Vernatherm just doesn't do
> the entire job if there are large fluctuations in outside temperature where
> you fly. When I used to tour on my motorcycle I to be ready for any kind of
> weather, from arctic cold to desert heat. Going up and down the left coast
> all year long you will find these same variables.
>
> The oil cooler door allows for an additional 30-40 degrees F of temperature
> rise to ensure you are driving out the moisture. Same as installing a
> winterization kit but you can do it in real time.
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
In a message dated 04/26/2002 11:55:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lcbowen(at)yahoo.com writes:
> While at SNF I asked the folks at the Hartzell booth why their props have
> the
> sticker on them "Do not push or pull by prop" (or something to that
> effect).
> They said it was a safety/liability issue. If a mag was still hot ....
> etc.
> Not because the prop can't handle it. If you do it, use two blades,
> grabbing
> at the root.
>
Now there's a good cautionary note. How many of us always check compression
by puling the prop through backwards to prevent accidental ignition? I think
we should...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing RV8 landing gear |
>>
>I cannot find the answer to this in the archives, so please can I have the
>collective experience of the list members?
>
My experience/recommendation is thus: use whatever magic, voodoo,
witchcraft, incantations, prayers and deity worship you need to get it done.
I've found that a pair of long nose vise grips clamped onto the nuts
inside the gear boxes allows the bolt heads to be torqued from the outside.
(Yes, the hardened washer *should* be under the rotating part.) It's a truly
horrid location to have to get at. There has to be a better way to mount
the gear legs on these airplanes. And yes, they WILL get loose after the
first 50 hours or so and need to be tightened. I cranked them down
gorilla-tight when I last tightened them. They have not loosened up at all
since then. Screw the gap feeler deal as mentioned in the plans to set the
U block spacing to the wear plate...crank 'em down!
Good luck.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
282 hrs.
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
I would have never believed it unless I had seen it. If I had know that an
RV6A could turn around in such a confined space, I would have thought a lot
harder about my choice for the RV6.
My RV6 is rather cumbersome while moving it in and out of the hanger. The
best way I have found of moving the RV6 is to pick up the tailwheel assembly
and push and pull the plane around. A rather physical process.
Bob
>Anyway, I usually taxi
> straight in to my hangar under modest power, shut down, get out, and do a
> 3-point turn by hand, pulling/pushing on the prop (no tow bar required.)
> With the nose wheel hard over against the stop, I can make a tight turn
where
> the inside main wheel actually rolls backward in a small circle, and the
> 3-point turn becomes unnecessary to stay well clear of the workbenches,
> shelves, and fuel storage tanks that line the walls of my 36-foot wide
> hangar. Amazing what these little planes can be coaxed to do on the
ground,
> much less in the air.
>
> -Bill B
> RV-6A - no tracking error after years of prop abuse on the ground...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I would have never believed it unless I had seen it. If I had know that an
>RV6A could turn around in such a confined space, I would have thought a lot
>harder about my choice for the RV6.
>
>My RV6 is rather cumbersome while moving it in and out of the hanger. The
>best way I have found of moving the RV6 is to pick up the tailwheel assembly
>and push and pull the plane around. A rather physical process.
>
I loop a piece of rope, with a garden hose handle, around the tailwheel
spring. Then I pull and the plane follows me. Works great with full
swivel tailwheel.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Full sized pre-punched wing skins |
I get a whole lot of chances to work with Van's. I think that right now my
name is on all but one or two of the airworthiness certificates of their
aircraft. Anyways, I was over there signing off some documents and after
the work was done had a chance to talk story a little with the guys out in
the R&D shop. About a week and a half ago I was given a tail and wing kit
for an RV-6 that was more than ten years old and was still in the box. I
was worried about possible corrosion on the wing skins because that long ago
they used just paper to seperate the skins for shipping. The paper, it
seems, liked to attract moisture and cause a bit of surface corrosion.
Anyways, because of that I asked if the Van's shop had ever punched out any
full size wing skins. They said that they hadn't ever had anybody ask
before and, therefore, hadn't, but that it was an interesting idea. Well, I
sort of figured out that I was just going to have to settle for the standard
skins at that point. About a week later, yesterday, I got a call from the
guys in R&D telling me that they had went ahead a punched out a prototype
set of full wing skins and was I interested in them. Because they were
prototypes they offered me a very fair price. What could I say but
"gimme!!". I picked them up last night and they are really nice. And
entirely pre-punched. I can't wait until its time to mount those skins.
So if there's anyone out there that may be interested in one piece top and
bottom skins let Van's know and they may be able to do them for you. Like I
said, mine are the prototypes and they guys I was talking to aren't sure if
they are going to offer them as optional, but knowing Van if enough people
call he will definitely start making them.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A (flying)
RV-6(a) building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | inside the cowling insulation |
Don,
I noticed the same problem. I bought some insulation from Wicks that looks
like pressed recycled wool fibers with a layer of aluminum foil on the side
closest to the heat. It works like a blanket and is supposedly fireproof. It
solved the problem altogether. You will need some stiff material to be
compliant with the curves. There are other insulation products that look
like fiberglass batts about 3/4 inch thick. Reflective foil is bonded to
both sides of the fiberglass. These don't want to conform to the curves in
the cowl, so avoid them.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I have ground run the engine for 1.5 hours. I am getting a brown
"overheated area" on the left side of my cowl.
I have lost my ISP & can't look in the archives .
What should I put on it. A layer of alumimun tape or some aluminum
covered insulation material or any other ideas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Hello Esten
I contacted Cliff last night and his response was that he was no longer
selling the device. he went on to say that he was however sharing the
information re- the EZ-trim device and included that info in an attachment
with his email.
This email is to inform you that an email with attachment is being sent.
I will forward Cliff's email in its entirety.
Jim in Kelowna
> To: Cliff Cady EZ-Trim
> Cliff,
> Are you completely out of the business? A number of people including
> myself are searching for some kind of altitude hold to use with Navaid.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: AeroElectric-List: Re: Lightspeed cables? |
I sent this on Wednesday, but it didn't seem to make it to the list,
so here goes again.
There was a discussion a couple of days ago about how to terminate
the coax cables for the Lightspeed EI. I forwarded the question to
the Aeroelectric List, and after some back and forth to help him
understand the function of the coax cable, Bob offered the following
comments.
I've got lots of RG-400, so I think I will go down that road.
Kevin Horton
>Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:49:15 -0500
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)kscable.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Lightspeed cables?
>Sender: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard RIley
>>
>>The co-ax runs between the ignition box and the coils, so it's for power of
>>some form.
>>
>>
>> For power and/or control wires? Spark plug
>> > wires?
>> >
>> > Bob . . .
>
> Hmmmm . . . that's too bad. There's no good reason to do
> this with RF quality coaxial cable.
>
>RE: Lightspeed cables?
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mprather(at)spro.net
>The coax drives the low tension, switched side of the coils. I
>think he uses coax to suppress the rf generated by the sharp
>cutoff that his CDI boxes may generate. I am guess that this is
>probably un-necessary. The outputs from his box are bnc however, so
>you at some point have to switch from coax to straight wire.
>
> Given that you are stuck with BNC connectors, consider
> using RG-400 coax (high temperature, modern insulation)
> that can be terminated quite handily with crimp or solder
> connectors like:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/antenna/antenna.html#s605cm
>
> with tools like:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#rct-2
>
> then terminate the "wired" end using a technique like
> this:
>
> http://209.134.106.21/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
>
> The RG-400 is MUCH easier to work with since the insulations
> used are solder-friendly.
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Full sized pre-punched wing skins |
Lord if they would do it for the RV-4... I might consider being a re-repeat
offender.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Full sized pre-punched wing skins
>
> I get a whole lot of chances to work with Van's. I think that right now
my
> name is on all but one or two of the airworthiness certificates of their
> aircraft. Anyways, I was over there signing off some documents and after
> the work was done had a chance to talk story a little with the guys out in
> the R&D shop. About a week and a half ago I was given a tail and wing kit
> for an RV-6 that was more than ten years old and was still in the box. I
> was worried about possible corrosion on the wing skins because that long
ago
> they used just paper to seperate the skins for shipping. The paper, it
> seems, liked to attract moisture and cause a bit of surface corrosion.
> Anyways, because of that I asked if the Van's shop had ever punched out
any
> full size wing skins. They said that they hadn't ever had anybody ask
> before and, therefore, hadn't, but that it was an interesting idea. Well,
I
> sort of figured out that I was just going to have to settle for the
standard
> skins at that point. About a week later, yesterday, I got a call from the
> guys in R&D telling me that they had went ahead a punched out a prototype
> set of full wing skins and was I interested in them. Because they were
> prototypes they offered me a very fair price. What could I say but
> "gimme!!". I picked them up last night and they are really nice. And
> entirely pre-punched. I can't wait until its time to mount those skins.
>
> So if there's anyone out there that may be interested in one piece top and
> bottom skins let Van's know and they may be able to do them for you. Like
I
> said, mine are the prototypes and they guys I was talking to aren't sure
if
> they are going to offer them as optional, but knowing Van if enough people
> call he will definitely start making them.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A (flying)
> RV-6(a) building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Full sized pre-punched wing skins |
MIKE=VANS made about 4 sets for me about 5 years ago-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics prices |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, April 26, 2002, at 10:14 AM, Joe Larson wrote:
>
> Okay, was this price labor only or include the equipment? Tell me
> it didn't cost $9700 just to swap out some equipment you already
> owned.
That was the total price for everything, Parts/labor/paperwork etc. I
think MSRP on the 430 is about 10K, that's why I was impressed. There is
a large ad for another shop in a recent Trade-a-Plane guaranteeing an
installed price of $17K for the 430, the 340 audiopanel, and a transponder.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: inside the cowling insulation |
I am just finishing some repair work on the aft edge of my lower cowl right
now that was caused by heat damage. I didn't know what caused the cracking
and deformation until I ground into it, and then voila, burned filler and
other signs of heat damage very similar to Randall's damage. Again like his,
the paint inside the cowl was undamaged. I have that adhesive foil installed
and the damage started right at the aft edge of my foil. LESSON: line almost
the entire inside of your lower cowl with it!!!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 154.6 hrs, lesson learned
www.rv-8.com
> Van's carries an aluminum sheet that is sold by the foot and sticks to the
> inside cowling. I bought some but haven't stuck in on yet so can't say
how
> well it works. Randall Henderson uses it and he gave it a thumbs up.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok rv6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: inside the cowling insulation
>
>
> >
> > I have ground run the engine for 1.5 hours. I am getting a brown
> > "overheated area" on the left side of my cowl.
> > I have lost my ISP & can't look in the archives .
> > What should I put on it. A layer of alumimun tape or some aluminum
> > covered insulation material or any other ideas.
> >
> >
> > Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
> > Arlington, Tx
> > ******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)warbird.org> |
| Subject: | Selling my RV-8 Tail Kit |
The time has come to recognize that I don't have the time to build an
RV. I bought my RV-8 tail kit about 4 years ago, and I'm looking to
sell it to a local buyer (I'm in Washington, and I don't want to package
it for shipping). The only work that's been done is drilling the
horizontal skins to the rear spar. Willing to entertain virtuallly any
offer!
Bill Lattimer
billla(at)warbird.org
425.788.4531 Home
425.704.3946 Work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)attbi.com> |
I've had two offers on this system that didn't come through so I am
reposting this message...........
Listers,
I have a Vision Microsystems VM1000 for sale with the optional
temperature OAT/CAT gauge.
CAT can be carb. temp or if you have fuel injection you can use it for
cabin air temperature.
The unit has less than 10 hrs on it and has been checked out by the
factory and a new 15 yr.
battery installed within the past 2 weeks. This is a complete system
with all sensors and thermocouples included.
The current prices at ACS are $3145 for the VM1000 unit and $285 for the
optional temp.
monitor for at total of $3430.
I understand there is quite a lead time from the factory on these units.
I will sell for $2600
If you are interested, please contact me personally at
edwardmcole(at)attbi.com
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Starter Engagement Problem |
Listers,
My starter would engage for one cycle then disengages itself and become
free-wheeling. I have read many starter problems but not this one. Any ideas?
Anh
Maryland
---
[This E-mail was scanned for viruses at mail.ameritel.net]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ventilation |
OK: I have two systems in Suzie Q: two eye ball vents snuggled in the
panel fed from air off the TOP of the engine baffling. Good source. The
air is slightly above ambient air temperature but not much, even on hot
days. Never measured it. Sometimes it's just the movement of air on you
that cools you off. I can shut it off by both a butterfly valve FORWARD
of the firewall and the eyeball vents themselves.
Back seater gets air from a NACA vent under the right wing. Splitter
gives heat or cool air from a larger 2 inch eyeball in the back.
NACA or any other vents on the canopy: you have to have them in just the
right area for them to get air IN. Some -4s have them and they actually
suck air OUT. The vortex generators would probably help. HOWEVER:
something else to consider: Now you have a hole in your canopy skirt
that is a rain catcher extraordinaire. And not just in the air. The main
objection I have heard besides them not working well to get air in is
they DO let in water. Lots of it. Regardless of how you seal them up.
Foam plug? Right. That'll suck it up. IMHO.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Pulling planes around |
I have the Taildragger Dragger. Beats pushing it around without it by a
LONG shot. They advertise in Kitplane. I can get the address if anyone
needs it. Makes moving the airplane around in the hanger a breeze.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >I would have never believed it unless I had seen it. If I had know that an
> >RV6A could turn around in such a confined space, I would have thought a lot
> >harder about my choice for the RV6.
> >
> >My RV6 is rather cumbersome while moving it in and out of the hanger. The
> >best way I have found of moving the RV6 is to pick up the tailwheel assembly
> >and push and pull the plane around. A rather physical process.
> >
>
> I loop a piece of rope, with a garden hose handle, around the tailwheel
> spring. Then I pull and the plane follows me. Works great with full
> swivel tailwheel.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
There is a much more elegant way to move your RV-6 than resorting to
rope and hernias! ;-)
Here are details on the towbar I use with my RV-6:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/airport.html#towbar
The Cessna (yech....puuwee....spit...spit....) towbar has worked
flawlessly for nearly three years for moving the RV-7 in and out of the
hangar.
It just wouldn't be proper for nosewheel folks to see us straining while
.....gasp......PICKIN' UP the tail of our airplane! That might lead to
all sorts of comments about our brain being located in a similar
location to the little wheel.....
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: inside the cowling insulation |
> the paint inside the cowl was undamaged. I have that adhesive foil
installed
> and the damage started right at the aft edge of my foil. LESSON: line
almost
> the entire inside of your lower cowl with it!!!
Well, maybe not the WHOLE inside, but I agree -- it's definitely a good idea
to shield a LARGE area, and for that reason I still think the "less fancy"
simple sheet of stick-on aluminum is a good solution. For one thing, if you
have to cover a large area you don't want something thick and heavy that'll
add a lot of weight. And with a large sheet, it'll have more area over which
to dissipate the heat. The conductivity of the AL is part of the key to
this -- I had some stainless tape on part of it for a while and that created
hot spots that burned the cowl underneath, whereas the AL sheet that was
right next to it did not.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~350 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | Inspection and Flying... |
The inspection went well... The DAR found only a couple of wires in the
engine compartment that needed tied back... I never thought I would be
HAPPY to get a pink slip!
Weather permitting I may fly this weekend... Keep your fingers
crossed!
Regards...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
> Is there anybody out there (like Stec's 30Alt) that makes a stand alone
Alt Hold gizmo that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (ie, not TSO'd)?
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
TruTrak
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
I managed to get the last circuit board that Cliff had for his EZ-Trim. If
anyone has a good source for copying the board (double-sided), then we could
provide same to others. Total parts for the unit will be around $300-350,
even using a better grade BASIC controller than the one Cliff originally
used. (Cliff also shares his parts list, schematic and programming.) I've
been meaning to do this for some time, but other things just got in the way.
Boyd
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> Hello Esten
>
> I contacted Cliff last night and his response was that he was no longer
> selling the device. he went on to say that he was however sharing the
> information re- the EZ-trim device and included that info in an attachment
> with his email.
> This email is to inform you that an email with attachment is being sent.
> I will forward Cliff's email in its entirety.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> > To: Cliff Cady EZ-Trim
> > Cliff,
> > Are you completely out of the business? A number of people including
> > myself are searching for some kind of altitude hold to use with Navaid.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Findley" <n710e(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 04/12/02 |
Please unsubscribe me from the list.
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
Jim, Could you post Cliff's reply on a website somewhere? Or else send
it individually to people like me who are definitely interested?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 finishing
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude Hold
Hello Esten
I contacted Cliff last night and his response was that he was no longer
selling the device. he went on to say that he was however sharing the
information re- the EZ-trim device and included that info in an attachment
with his email.
This email is to inform you that an email with attachment is being sent.
I will forward Cliff's email in its entirety.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com |
Would like to know who out there is flying with an H2AD. I have one in my
6A -N8JG flying since 95 and have rebuilt it in 97. This engine has some
special maintenance issues and would like to talk off line to any who are
interested.
John Gould
rvbuilder1(at)aol.com
N8JG, Fort Wayne, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I'm fitting the F-713s Auxiliary longerons. Instructions say they need to be
twisted to fit properly.
How much twist? There is no direction here. Same 17 degrees as longerons?
Thankx
Steve
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
>
>
> Would like to know who out there is flying with an H2AD. I have one in my
>6A -N8JG flying since 95 and have rebuilt it in 97. This engine has some
>special maintenance issues and would like to talk off line to any who are
>interested.
>
> John Gould
> rvbuilder1(at)aol.com
> N8JG, Fort Wayne, IN
One of the guys at Van's has one in his 6A. I don't remember his name,
it's a silver plane with burgundy trim.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
Ain't life grand. I spent the morning playing on the internet via Cliff
Cady's downloadable altitude hold kit instructions and have found and
ordered all of the parts except for the cases and wires.
Most were as he has listed although I did find the L293D quad driver on TI's
website and asked for some free samples, The website seemed to like me so
well see what I get on that one. The 7805 5v regulator ended up being a
78M05 regulator, whatever that means???
The Download includes the .pcb files for the printed circuit boards. One can
go to http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/HowWorks.htm to see how to
download free software that will then allow you to order the boards.
Minimum order is 3 for $67 so I may have a few extras if anyone wants to go
in on this. The rest of the parts have been much less than $100 except I
ordered the Basic Stamp II starter kit just because I've always wanted to
play with them. That was $149 plus at
http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/stamp_stuff.htm
and it included the Basic Stamp II which sells for about $50 by itself. The
starter kit includes the software and cable for sending Cliff's code to the
BS2, but I believe the software can be found for free somewhere. Cliff's
plans list a source for the cable if you don't want to buy the starter kit.
www.jameco.com has most of the rest of the critical parts with the exception
of one item, the pressure sensor. This was at www.alliedelec.com.
I'll keep you all posted as this thing progresses. I currently have manual
trim on my 6 so this may need to change, although one design I have thought
of would be to split the sheath of the manual trim cable right before it
goes into the control housing and then use a servo to vary the sheath length
through the 180deg turn towards aft, while the cable/knob still controls the
trim tab. I will probably go to full elec trim though as the manual cable
has some significant free play due to the 180deg turn.
Anybody remember the plans for installing the trim option with a short cable
that keeps the servo out of the elevator? This would definately reduce the
amount of converting I have to do.
Cliff's page is
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
if you want to download his data.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru |
I was advised by one of the guys at Van's that the approx. 3/4" hole in
the web of the main gear weldment could be used to pass a fuel tube
thru. As I am placing a gascolator in the wing root, this worked out
well for the tube going to the input of the gascolator. I finished
bending the tube and it fit beautifully. I put the nut and sleeve on it
and flared it, only to discover that the nut is just a little too big to
fit thru the hole in the weldment web!
Has any one else encountered this problem? Can I grind the "corners"
of the nut down a bit? Can I enlarge the hole 1/16" ? Or am I supposed
to construct the tube captive on the gear weldment in the first place?
fuel system 3 times. At least the tubing is cheap.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"(at)matronics.com
Ed,
thanks for the come back.
Take a look at www.pcbexpress.com Their free software lets you directly
look at the .pcb files included in the .zip download from Cliff's page
listed at the bottom. It then directly orders the manufactured board from
them. (I think they use magical electrons to do all this) I changed the
board size slightly with everything justifed to the switch side so that it
allowed for me to use their miniboard option(3.8" X 2.5"). This gives me
three boards for $63, to be mailed to me next Thursday. I figure I can trim
off the excess size. It was $108 for one at the smaller size using their
standard board option.
I have a local friend who will be interested in one of them so the third one
is available to anyone who wants it.
I'll sell it for $22 and ship via usps.
But I think anyone who had the means to make these boards cheaply could
probably sell a few.
As soon as I get something from them I'll let the list know how it worked
out.
thx
W
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Cole
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude hold
Wheeler,
I manage a group at work that lays out prototype circuit boards. Some
one
from Florida ask me if I could layout
Cady's board but all he sent me was pictures of the board. Your PCB
house
will want a Gerber file of the board
in order to manufacture it. You might be able to lay one out using their
software, but you need to know what you are doing.
We make our own 2 sided boards in house , grinding them out of copper
clad
board.
If you could supply a decent schematic, I could have a board laid out
for
you.
So far, the only schematic I have seen is the hand drawn one from the
download.
If I can help you at all on the board, let me know.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Altitude hold
>
> Folks,
>
> Ain't life grand. I spent the morning playing on the internet via
Cliff
> Cady's downloadable altitude hold kit instructions and have found and
> ordered all of the parts except for the cases and wires.
>
> Most were as he has listed although I did find the L293D quad driver
on
TI's
> website and asked for some free samples, The website seemed to like me
so
> well see what I get on that one. The 7805 5v regulator ended up being
a
> 78M05 regulator, whatever that means???
>
> The Download includes the .pcb files for the printed circuit boards.
One
can
> go to http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/HowWorks.htm to see how
to
> download free software that will then allow you to order the boards.
>
> Minimum order is 3 for $67 so I may have a few extras if anyone wants
to
go
> in on this. The rest of the parts have been much less than $100 except
I
> ordered the Basic Stamp II starter kit just because I've always wanted
to
> play with them. That was $149 plus at
>
> http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/stamp_stuff.htm
>
> and it included the Basic Stamp II which sells for about $50 by
itself.
The
> starter kit includes the software and cable for sending Cliff's code
to
the
> BS2, but I believe the software can be found for free somewhere.
Cliff's
> plans list a source for the cable if you don't want to buy the starter
kit.
>
>
> www.jameco.com has most of the rest of the critical parts with the
exception
> of one item, the pressure sensor. This was at www.alliedelec.com.
>
> I'll keep you all posted as this thing progresses. I currently have
manual
> trim on my 6 so this may need to change, although one design I have
thought
> of would be to split the sheath of the manual trim cable right before
it
> goes into the control housing and then use a servo to vary the sheath
length
> through the 180deg turn towards aft, while the cable/knob still
controls
the
> trim tab. I will probably go to full elec trim though as the manual
cable
> has some significant free play due to the 180deg turn.
>
> Anybody remember the plans for installing the trim option with a short
cable
> that keeps the servo out of the elevator? This would definately reduce
the
> amount of converting I have to do.
>
> Cliff's page is
>
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
>
> if you want to download his data.
>
> W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru |
I didn't like how that hole is at an angle anyway, so I just ran the hose
(steel braided) around the weldment. You can't see it in the airplane
anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru
>
> I was advised by one of the guys at Van's that the approx. 3/4"
hole in
> the web of the main gear weldment could be used to pass a fuel tube
> thru. As I am placing a gascolator in the wing root, this worked out
> well for the tube going to the input of the gascolator. I finished
> bending the tube and it fit beautifully. I put the nut and sleeve on it
> and flared it, only to discover that the nut is just a little too big to
> fit thru the hole in the weldment web!
>
> Has any one else encountered this problem? Can I grind the
"corners"
> of the nut down a bit? Can I enlarge the hole 1/16" ? Or am I supposed
> to construct the tube captive on the gear weldment in the first place?
>
> fuel system 3 times. At least the tubing is cheap.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru |
I used a unibit and opened the hole up a little.
Gary
tom sargent wrote:
>
> I was advised by one of the guys at Van's that the approx. 3/4" hole
in
> the web of the main gear weldment could be used to pass a fuel tube
> thru. As I am placing a gascolator in the wing root, this worked out
> well for the tube going to the input of the gascolator. I finished
> bending the tube and it fit beautifully. I put the nut and sleeve on it
> and flared it, only to discover that the nut is just a little too big to
> fit thru the hole in the weldment web!
>
> Has any one else encountered this problem? Can I grind the "corners"
> of the nut down a bit? Can I enlarge the hole 1/16" ? Or am I supposed
> to construct the tube captive on the gear weldment in the first place?
>
> fuel system 3 times. At least the tubing is cheap.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
Hi Jim in Kelowna,
I too would like to get a copy of Cliff's email & attachment if you still
have it.
Thanks a bunch,
John Singer
RV-6A Gear weldments
Denver, CO
www.jgsinger.com/rv
-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude Hold
Hello Esten
I contacted Cliff last night and his response was that he was no longer
selling the device. he went on to say that he was however sharing the
information re- the EZ-trim device and included that info in an attachment
with his email.
This email is to inform you that an email with attachment is being sent.
I will forward Cliff's email in its entirety.
Jim in Kelowna
> To: Cliff Cady EZ-Trim
> Cliff,
> Are you completely out of the business? A number of people including
> myself are searching for some kind of altitude hold to use with Navaid.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | to shave or not to shave |
That is the question...while waiting for my wing kit, I got bored, so I
started messing around with a rivet shaver. I was playing with it for the
first time, trying it out on my little SportAir project.
WOW!!!!!!!
Granted, my rivets come out much better now than they did on my first-ever
riveting job, but the shaver can have a dramatic effect. The rivets that
stood a bit high ended up completely smooth and flush to the touch. I'm
definitely impressed.
But here's the question...is it worth shaving every rivet on the plane for
consistency and a "silky smooth" finish? Or does the paint prep process
take care of this naturally? I can see a few factors...ScotchBrite and
primer may go a long way to smooth out the minor "tall" rivets, but does
that really compare? Is there any risk in rivet shaving, i.e. reducing the
"effective radius" of the rivet head (I guess this is minimized by
accurately tweaking the microstop)?
Anyway, I'm curious. I was going to create a web poll, but I figure I'd
like to hear people's opinions in more than a yes/no fashion.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (wings mid-shipment, fuse & finish in June)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: to shave or not to shave |
This goes back to "getting the airplane finished" If you do a good job
dimpling/countersinking, you should be fine. It is a metal airplane, and
people expect to see rivets. It couldn't hurt to use the shaver for the few
rivets that sit slightly above the surface, but I would not do every rivet.
You are creating unnecessary work, IMHO. Also, you won't care. Once you
fly it, painted or not, you won't care. Your freaking grin will be so wide
that your eyes will be squinted and you couldn't see those darn rivets
anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: to shave or not to shave
>
> That is the question...while waiting for my wing kit, I got bored, so I
> started messing around with a rivet shaver. I was playing with it for the
> first time, trying it out on my little SportAir project.
>
> WOW!!!!!!!
>
> Granted, my rivets come out much better now than they did on my first-ever
> riveting job, but the shaver can have a dramatic effect. The rivets that
> stood a bit high ended up completely smooth and flush to the touch. I'm
> definitely impressed.
>
> But here's the question...is it worth shaving every rivet on the plane for
> consistency and a "silky smooth" finish? Or does the paint prep process
> take care of this naturally? I can see a few factors...ScotchBrite and
> primer may go a long way to smooth out the minor "tall" rivets, but does
> that really compare? Is there any risk in rivet shaving, i.e. reducing
the
> "effective radius" of the rivet head (I guess this is minimized by
> accurately tweaking the microstop)?
>
> Anyway, I'm curious. I was going to create a web poll, but I figure I'd
> like to hear people's opinions in more than a yes/no fashion.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings mid-shipment, fuse & finish in June)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
In a message dated 4/27/2002 9:04:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bcbraem(at)comcast.net writes:
> I managed to get the last circuit board that Cliff had for his EZ-Trim. If
> anyone has a good source for copying the board (double-sided), then we
> could
> provide same to others. Total parts for the unit will be around $300-350,
> even using a better grade BASIC controller than the one Cliff originally
> used. (Cliff also shares his parts list, schematic and programming.) I've
> been meaning to do this for some time, but other things just got in the
> way.
Does someone have the gerber files for this Printed Wiring Board (PWB) ?
What layout (CAD) package was the board done in? PADs, Allegro or ??.
2-sided PWBs are still expensive if done in small lots due to the high cost
of setup, but I could get a quote on a hundred PWBs (what are the
dimensions?) if I had the fab drawing and the gerber. The board shops around
here are hungry.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
In a message dated 4/27/2002 8:49:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
> > I managed to get the last circuit board that Cliff had for his EZ-Trim.
> If
> > anyone has a good source for copying the board (double-sided), then we
> > could
> > provide same to others. Total parts for the unit will be around
> $300-350,
> > even using a better grade BASIC controller than the one Cliff originally
> > used. (Cliff also shares his parts list, schematic and programming.)
> I've
> > been meaning to do this for some time, but other things just got in the
> > way.
>
> Does someone have the gerber files for this Printed Wiring Board (PWB) ?
> What layout (CAD) package was the board done in? PADs, Allegro or ??.
Oops. Never mind. I just got the post on the download site.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | RE: Inspection and Flying... |
Thanks to all for the words of congratulations and encouragement! No
flying today because of the wind, but maybe tomorrow...
Regards...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru |
How does one drain and inspect the gascolator if in the wing root?
Drain hole? Remove the fairing....every preflight?
Just asking,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tom sargent
> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 7:19 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru
>
>
>
> I was advised by one of the guys at Van's that the
> approx. 3/4" hole in the web of the main gear weldment could
> be used to pass a fuel tube thru. As I am placing a
> gascolator in the wing root, this worked out well for the
> tube going to the input of the gascolator. I finished
> bending the tube and it fit beautifully. I put the nut and
> sleeve on it and flared it, only to discover that the nut is
> just a little too big to fit thru the hole in the weldment web!
>
> Has any one else encountered this problem? Can I
> grind the "corners" of the nut down a bit? Can I enlarge the
> hole 1/16" ? Or am I supposed to construct the tube captive
> on the gear weldment in the first place?
>
> fuel system 3 times. At least the tubing is cheap.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> Now there's a good cautionary note. How many of us always check compression
> by puling the prop through backwards to prevent accidental ignition? I think
> we should...
I used to own a Cessna 172 that could be hand propped with one finger. If a
blade was just a little before top dead center, flicking it with a finger would
reliably start the engine. The interesting thing is that occasionally if one
flicked the prop backwards through top dead center, the prop would pause and then
come back the other way (presumably due to tight compression in the cylinders --
it was a new engine) and then it would start!
This cured me of thinking that pulling props through backwards was safe.
-Dan Masys
-7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Full sized pre-punched wing skins |
Or, for those not interested in looking up the exact value of the
density of aluminium 8-), just weigh the outboard skins, and multiply
the weight by (.032/.025), i.e.. the ratio of the thicknesses. That
will give you the weight of the heavier skins, and you don't need to
know the density of Aluminium.
It works out to 1.28, or 28% heavier. But it's only the skins, which
can't weight that much to start with, so probably isn't a huge weight
penalty.
-RB4
rv7 "at" b4.ca
RV-7 Empennage
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>Hi Mike, glad to hear you're back in the building business! Just one
>question about the full-sized wing skins, have you figured out the weight
>penalty? Probly not a big deal but it will add several pounds I suspect.
> I'm too lazy to do the math but it could be calculated fairly quickly by
>figuring the area of the outboard skins in sq. inches (all four of them)
>and multiplying by .007 (difference in thickness between .032 and .025)
>and then multiplying that by the density of aluminum per cubic inch to
>get the approx delta in weight....might be an interesting exercise for
>anybody going this route just to see what it is. Regardless, it would
>definitely look nicer and would eliminate an extra row of rivets. But
>for anyone who has to have them shipped, the container will probly have
>to be bigger (??) and it might be a bit more work to handle the skins
>around the workshop (for dimpling, etc etc).
>
>Interesting to think about....
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fiberglass and other finish kit stuff....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air |
Well, I've added one but don't yet know if it's successful as I haven't
flown.
My cooler is on the firewall with three-inch SCAT coming from behind the
right-hand rear cylinder. Discussions on this forum indicated that
controlling the supply of air to the cooler was much more effective than a
cooler exit door, which I started out with. I riveted on one of Van's
three-inch flanges to the vertical wall of the cylinder baffle, then drilled
two 5/16th's holes horizontally across it(one on each side). I then heated
some 1/4inch steel rod enough to hammer about three inches of it a little
flatter then bent one end 90 degrees and cut it off about 2-3" long. Drilled
and tapped two holes in the flattened portion ,then held scrap aluminum up
to the flange and traced it out from the forward, inside and then cut it
just a little outside the line at the top and bottom. Doing it this way
makes the resulting flapper valve a tiny bit larger than the opening and
ensures a tighter seal when closed and stops the valve from going overcentre
when in the closed position. The short, straight portion of the steel rod I
threaded 1/4-28.Lastly, I cut two very short lengths of tubing to fit over
the steel rod and wedge into the 5/16" holes- these became the bushings the
rod would rotate in. Slide the rod through the buhings and holes in the
flange; screw an anchor nut onto the threaded portion sticking out of the
one bushing;hold the valve plate up against the rod inside the duct to mark
and drill two holes matched to the tapped holes and install two screws into
the tapped holesto secure the plate. The last step is to drill a tiny hole
near the end of the actuating arm to accept an "S" bend in the end of a
bowden cable. I used a locking T-handle on the other end. It seems secure,
with no slop or looseness that might lead to flutter or wear.
Although my plenum top is already on, I know a picture is worth a thousand
words. If you'd like me to take a couple for you, Please let me know.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated damper on the oil
> cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps to swing alot from day
> to day.
>
> Greg Hunsicker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru |
Hi Larry,
If installed so that the drain fitting just protrudes through a hole in the
wing fairing access will not be troublesome for preflight checking. A few
screws are all that is in the way when servicing is required.
Great flights greased landings,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6A gear weldment fuel tubing pass-thru
>
> How does one drain and inspect the gascolator if in the wing root?
> Drain hole? Remove the fairing....every preflight?
>
> Just asking,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altitude hold |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
What I'm curious to know is, how well does this Altitude Hold thing work?
I seem to recall some time ago on the List a discussion of something
like this that tended to wander around quite a bit and didn't hold
altitude very well.....but I can't remember what it was or who made it.
Anybody using Cliff Cady's system with good results?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff.....
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Altitude hold
Folks,
Ain't life grand. I spent the morning playing on the internet via Cliff
Cady's downloadable altitude hold kit instructions and have found and
ordered all of the parts except for the cases and wires.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: to shave or not to shave |
Rivet shaving is covered by MIL-R-47196A, Rivets, Buck Type, Preparation for
and Installation of. You can find it on the internet. For a 3/32" rivet, max
head protrusion before shaving is 0.006". Minimum head diameter after
shaving is 0.161". I hope that helps.
Mark McGee
RV-4 Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: to shave or not to shave
>
> That is the question...while waiting for my wing kit, I got bored, so I
> started messing around with a rivet shaver. I was playing with it for the
> first time, trying it out on my little SportAir project.
>
> WOW!!!!!!!
>
> Granted, my rivets come out much better now than they did on my first-ever
> riveting job, but the shaver can have a dramatic effect. The rivets that
> stood a bit high ended up completely smooth and flush to the touch. I'm
> definitely impressed.
>
> But here's the question...is it worth shaving every rivet on the plane for
> consistency and a "silky smooth" finish? Or does the paint prep process
> take care of this naturally? I can see a few factors...ScotchBrite and
> primer may go a long way to smooth out the minor "tall" rivets, but does
> that really compare? Is there any risk in rivet shaving, i.e. reducing
the
> "effective radius" of the rivet head (I guess this is minimized by
> accurately tweaking the microstop)?
>
> Anyway, I'm curious. I was going to create a web poll, but I figure I'd
> like to hear people's opinions in more than a yes/no fashion.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings mid-shipment, fuse & finish in June)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone know of any RV-4 builder web sites? I have seen Matt's, but
haven't found any others.
Thanks.
Tim
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 web sites? |
>
>
>Does anyone know of any RV-4 builder web sites? I have seen Matt's, but
>haven't found any others.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Tim
Tim,
Have a look at Van's list of builder sites:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
Dan Masys wrote:
>
>
> SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> > Now there's a good cautionary note. How many of us always check compression
> > by puling the prop through backwards to prevent accidental ignition? I think
> > we should...
>
> I used to own a Cessna 172 that could be hand propped with one finger. If a
> blade was just a little before top dead center, flicking it with a finger would
> reliably start the engine. The interesting thing is that occasionally if one
> flicked the prop backwards through top dead center, the prop would pause and
then
> come back the other way (presumably due to tight compression in the cylinders
--
> it was a new engine) and then it would start!
>
> This cured me of thinking that pulling props through backwards was safe.
>
> -Dan Masys
> -7A fuse
>
Due to the design of the vanes in some vacuum pumps, it is better not to
rotate them backwards since it can increase the chances of damage to the
vanes.
Sorry, I don't know which pumps in particular are more prone to damage
in this manner, but I have always been hesitant to rotate a prop
backwards on an engine that has any vacuum pump.
By the way, flipping a prop backwards against compression is a common
way to start many large model aircraft engines; bet it would work pretty
well on a lot of full-scale engines as well! :-)
The mags are ALWAYS hot..........
Sam Buchanan (RV-6....vacuumless)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tbird <tbird(at)ptsi.net> |
| Subject: | Look,my beautiful girl friend |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Altitude Hold: Printed Circuit Boards |
> 2-sided PWBs are still expensive if done in small lots due to the high
cost
> of setup, but I could get a quote on a hundred PWBs (what are the
> dimensions?) if I had the fab drawing and the gerber. The board shops
around
> here are hungry.
I deal with a company that will make me three double-sided PCBs for $60.
Twenty bucks a board is steep if you need hundreds, but for tiny runs is a
real bargain. Let me know if anyone is interested in their address.
I email them the board drawings done using their software and they ship
me the boards in a few days.
Dave Burton
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 web sites? |
Kevin;
Have you looked at Dan Reeves website and selected
the RV4 Yahoo group? There are two links there to some
RV4 builder sites. Most of us built our -4's before
URL's were in vogue....
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Kevin Horton wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >Does anyone know of any RV-4 builder web sites? I
> have seen Matt's, but
> >haven't found any others.
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Tim
>
> Tim,
>
> Have a look at Van's list of builder sites:
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine &
> electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air |
Nice Jaye. I wish I had the problem of too cool oil.
After 4 different gauges, 2 different oil coolers and
cowling locations, cowling trimming, vernatherms, #8
line and scoops, my oil temps still run 195 all winter
and 215 in the summer...Like the man said, are they in
limits? yes...
Rob
--- Jaye and Scott Jackson
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
>
> Well, I've added one but don't yet know if it's
> successful as I haven't
> flown.
> My cooler is on the firewall with three-inch SCAT
> coming from behind the
> right-hand rear cylinder. Discussions on this forum
> indicated that
> controlling the supply of air to the cooler was much
> more effective than a
> cooler exit door, which I started out with. I
> riveted on one of Van's
> three-inch flanges to the vertical wall of the
> cylinder baffle, then drilled
> two 5/16th's holes horizontally across it(one on
> each side). I then heated
> some 1/4inch steel rod enough to hammer about three
> inches of it a little
> flatter then bent one end 90 degrees and cut it off
> about 2-3" long. Drilled
> and tapped two holes in the flattened portion ,then
> held scrap aluminum up
> to the flange and traced it out from the forward,
> inside and then cut it
> just a little outside the line at the top and
> bottom. Doing it this way
> makes the resulting flapper valve a tiny bit larger
> than the opening and
> ensures a tighter seal when closed and stops the
> valve from going overcentre
> when in the closed position. The short, straight
> portion of the steel rod I
> threaded 1/4-28.Lastly, I cut two very short lengths
> of tubing to fit over
> the steel rod and wedge into the 5/16" holes- these
> became the bushings the
> rod would rotate in. Slide the rod through the
> buhings and holes in the
> flange; screw an anchor nut onto the threaded
> portion sticking out of the
> one bushing;hold the valve plate up against the rod
> inside the duct to mark
> and drill two holes matched to the tapped holes and
> install two screws into
> the tapped holesto secure the plate. The last step
> is to drill a tiny hole
> near the end of the actuating arm to accept an "S"
> bend in the end of a
> bowden cable. I used a locking T-handle on the other
> end. It seems secure,
> with no slop or looseness that might lead to flutter
> or wear.
> Although my plenum top is already on, I know a
> picture is worth a thousand
> words. If you'd like me to take a couple for you,
> Please let me know.
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Hunsicker" <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
> To:
>
> Subject: RV4-List: damper for oil cooler inlet air
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: Greg Hunsicker
>
> >
> > Has anyone successfully added a cockpit operated
> damper on the oil
> > cooler. This crazy KS WX is driving my oil temps
> to swing alot from day
> > to day.
> >
> > Greg Hunsicker
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
hi everybody -
anyone have suggestions on a site or a book that has military or even RV paint
schemes? i searched the list archives, amazon, google and even the smithsonian
site and can't find much. i thought for sure someone would have a coffee table
book describing ww2 fighter paint schemes or something like it.
thanks,
parker thomas
8 ready to start engine for the first time and moving project to louisville in
early
may
---------------------------------------------
Visit http://www.webcountry.net
For total Internet solutions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Printed Circuit Boards |
It so happens I'm laying out a board right now... I do all my two sided proto boards through www.pcb.com . They are really good and have a fast turnaround. Boards are $33 ea with a minimum quantity of two. Shipping not included. If you need any layout help, don't hesitate to ask, I have a full suite of cadence design tools at my disposal.
Kevin Warren
RV8 - staring at elevator trim tab drawings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
I would be interested in a board.
Ray Grenier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
> > I'm glad to see someone else feels the same way.
For many years I've felt that turning a vacuum pump backwards must surely
increase the chances of cracking a vane.
I have no experience of it; it's just from looking at the angles that the
vanes ride along the walls. Proper rotation is OK; the reverse looked like
some impossible climbing for the vanes.
Perhaps someone on the list is more conversant with this, but thanks for
bringing the matter up.
As for pushing and pulling on the propellor, has anyone considered that,
yes, the forces we are applying are only a fraction what the prop
experiences in flight; but it is doing so with plenty of oil film on the
thrust bearing? There can't be much when it's stopped-just the residual film
which is slowly, constantly stripping away as the engine sits. Any chance of
damaging the thrust bearing surface? The thrust bearing, by design, can take
much more force in a pull than in a push; yet we can generate more force
when pushing the airplane by the propellor than when pulling it. At least it
seems easier to push than pull to me.
My two cents Canadian(worth about a h'pny American).
Scott in Vancouver
>
>
> Due to the design of the vanes in some vacuum pumps, it is better not to
> rotate them backwards since it can increase the chances of damage to the
> vanes.
>
> Sorry, I don't know which pumps in particular are more prone to damage
> in this manner, but I have always been hesitant to rotate a prop
> backwards on an engine that has any vacuum pump.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Full sized pre-punched wing skins |
Mike,
Van's made 1 piece, .032" pre-punched RV-8 skins for local RV-8A builder
Jeff Bishop about 2.5 years ago. They are things of beauty. It seems that
these things ALWAYS happen AFTER I go ahead and do these things by myself!
:-( I really, really wanted to strangle Jeff! :-)
Charlie Kuss
PS Van's told Jeff that he was the first person that they had made
pre-punched, one piece RV-8 skins for.
>
>I get a whole lot of chances to work with Van's. I think that right now my
>name is on all but one or two of the airworthiness certificates of their
>aircraft. Anyways, I was over there signing off some documents and after
>the work was done had a chance to talk story a little with the guys out in
>the R&D shop. About a week and a half ago I was given a tail and wing kit
>for an RV-6 that was more than ten years old and was still in the box. I
>was worried about possible corrosion on the wing skins because that long ago
>they used just paper to seperate the skins for shipping. The paper, it
>seems, liked to attract moisture and cause a bit of surface corrosion.
>Anyways, because of that I asked if the Van's shop had ever punched out any
>full size wing skins. They said that they hadn't ever had anybody ask
>before and, therefore, hadn't, but that it was an interesting idea. Well, I
>sort of figured out that I was just going to have to settle for the standard
>skins at that point. About a week later, yesterday, I got a call from the
>guys in R&D telling me that they had went ahead a punched out a prototype
>set of full wing skins and was I interested in them. Because they were
>prototypes they offered me a very fair price. What could I say but
>"gimme!!". I picked them up last night and they are really nice. And
>entirely pre-punched. I can't wait until its time to mount those skins.
>
>So if there's anyone out there that may be interested in one piece top and
>bottom skins let Van's know and they may be able to do them for you. Like I
>said, mine are the prototypes and they guys I was talking to aren't sure if
>they are going to offer them as optional, but knowing Van if enough people
>call he will definitely start making them.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A (flying)
>RV-6(a) building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude hold |
In a message dated 4/28/2002 2:23:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
> What I'm curious to know is, how well does this Altitude Hold thing work?
> I seem to recall some time ago on the List a discussion of something
> like this that tended to wander around quite a bit and didn't hold
> altitude very well.....but I can't remember what it was or who made it.
> Anybody using Cliff Cady's system with good results?
I too would like to know how well this other system works.
My understanding from Jim Ham of Porcine Associates, the gentleman who was
working on the altitude hold feature for Navaid, is that he tried all the
simple system approaches. was adjusting algorithms but still having trouble
getting his device to work well (without constant under or over corrections)
in a variety of normal air conditions. Ultimately he found it unacceptable
without some way of modulating the action with additional speed information
from the pitot system. Roger Hansen has the prototype system in his "Dragon
Master" RV-6 (IO-360 angle valve)
Now this is just his opinion I realize, but if the Cliff Cady design works
well enough to not make one sick from short term operation, it could still be
a valuable low cost implementation for those of us that just want a little
help from time to time at keeping the altitude variable under control in
certain situations.
I guess if I were Cliff and I believed that the system as designed was
working well, I'd find out if anyone out there in RV land would be interested
in producing the kitted device for a reasonable price. I'd certainly pay to
not have to chase all this stuff down personally.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Tooling costs for production/prototyping fab usually run from about $275 to $325
and then board costs are quite small from there on out, maybe $3-$5 each. If
you order more than 7-10 pieces it will most likely be cheaper to go with a production
run. Limited order runs are a great deal if you only need two or three
boards. These are roughly $25-$35 each, regardless of order volume, minimum
order 2-3.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley RV Fly-in on June 8 |
Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing and the Langley Aero Club are having an RV
fly-in on June 8, 2002, at the Langley Township Regional Airport, just 20 nm
north of Bellingham, WA. All RVs and anyone interested in RVs are welcome.
You can get details on the fly-in, including helpful instructions on flying to
Canada for U.S. visitors, on the Western Canada Wing web site
(www.vansairforce.org).
Fly-in Features:
o RV transition training with Mike Seager (write me about bookings)
o engines seminar by Bart Lalonde (Aero Sport Power)
o safety seminar by Eustace Bowhay
o builder's seminar by Tedd McHenry
o RV awards ("People's Choice" and "Furthest RV")
o representative from Van's
o aerial demo by the Fraser Blues (Navion formation team)
o camping on the field
o customs on the field
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'richard.bibb(at)verizon.net'" ,
"'f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com'" ,
"'bcbraem(at)comcast.net'" ,
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"(at)matronics.com
Wow,
I'm getting a lot of response to this. Let me see what I get at the end of
this week, and if it looks OK I'll just order more sets of boards and mail
them off to y'all at cost plus shipping.
I'll post to the list end of next week, I may have found one small error in
the board for the C1 33uf cap. The 78M05 spec lists this as an input V
filter, but the board has it located on the output side. But its easily
fixed as there is another hole right next it that will make it work as per
spec sheet. More later as soon as I clarify with Cliff.
thx
W
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis Walsh
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude hold
Wow
Some great list work on this altitude hold deal!
The trim kit for modifying from manual with a short cable is sold by
Warren
Gretz here in Denver. He is in the yeller pages or let me know and I
can
call him for you. He has a web site I believe.
If you ain't sold the $22 board yet I will gladly take it off your
hands.
Denis Walsh
4011 S Magnolia Way
Denver, CO 80237
> From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:42:58 -0700
> To: "'RV-List Digest Server '"
> Subject: RV-List: Altitude hold
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Ain't life grand. I spent the morning playing on the internet via
Cliff
> Cady's downloadable altitude hold kit instructions and have found and
> ordered all of the parts except for the cases and wires.
>
> Most were as he has listed although I did find the L293D quad driver
on TI's
> website and asked for some free samples, The website seemed to like me
so
> well see what I get on that one. The 7805 5v regulator ended up being
a
> 78M05 regulator, whatever that means???
>
> The Download includes the .pcb files for the printed circuit boards.
One can
> go to http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/HowWorks.htm to see how
to
> download free software that will then allow you to order the boards.
>
> Minimum order is 3 for $67 so I may have a few extras if anyone wants
to go
> in on this. The rest of the parts have been much less than $100 except
I
> ordered the Basic Stamp II starter kit just because I've always wanted
to
> play with them. That was $149 plus at
>
> http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/stamp_stuff.htm
>
> and it included the Basic Stamp II which sells for about $50 by
itself. The
> starter kit includes the software and cable for sending Cliff's code
to the
> BS2, but I believe the software can be found for free somewhere.
Cliff's
> plans list a source for the cable if you don't want to buy the starter
kit.
>
>
> www.jameco.com has most of the rest of the critical parts with the
exception
> of one item, the pressure sensor. This was at www.alliedelec.com.
>
> I'll keep you all posted as this thing progresses. I currently have
manual
> trim on my 6 so this may need to change, although one design I have
thought
> of would be to split the sheath of the manual trim cable right before
it
> goes into the control housing and then use a servo to vary the sheath
length
> through the 180deg turn towards aft, while the cable/knob still
controls the
> trim tab. I will probably go to full elec trim though as the manual
cable
> has some significant free play due to the 180deg turn.
>
> Anybody remember the plans for installing the trim option with a short
cable
> that keeps the servo out of the elevator? This would definately reduce
the
> amount of converting I have to do.
>
> Cliff's page is
>
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
>
> if you want to download his data.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude hold |
I'm interested and agree, if this could be put in some kit form at a
reasonable price. Build it and fly it without doing a lot of "home brewing"
count me in. Sounds like I would need to first install Gretz's electric
elevator trim, which is agreeable, as I presently have planned for manual
trim.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude hold
>
> In a message dated 4/28/2002 2:23:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
>
> > What I'm curious to know is, how well does this Altitude Hold thing
work?
> > I seem to recall some time ago on the List a discussion of something
> > like this that tended to wander around quite a bit and didn't hold
> > altitude very well.....but I can't remember what it was or who made it.
> > Anybody using Cliff Cady's system with good results?
>
> I too would like to know how well this other system works.
>
> My understanding from Jim Ham of Porcine Associates, the gentleman who was
> working on the altitude hold feature for Navaid, is that he tried all the
> simple system approaches. was adjusting algorithms but still having
trouble
> getting his device to work well (without constant under or over
corrections)
> in a variety of normal air conditions. Ultimately he found it
unacceptable
> without some way of modulating the action with additional speed
information
> from the pitot system. Roger Hansen has the prototype system in his
"Dragon
> Master" RV-6 (IO-360 angle valve)
>
> Now this is just his opinion I realize, but if the Cliff Cady design works
> well enough to not make one sick from short term operation, it could still
be
> a valuable low cost implementation for those of us that just want a little
> help from time to time at keeping the altitude variable under control in
> certain situations.
>
> I guess if I were Cliff and I believed that the system as designed was
> working well, I'd find out if anyone out there in RV land would be
interested
> in producing the kitted device for a reasonable price. I'd certainly pay
to
> not have to chase all this stuff down personally.
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 160 hp engine?? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Tony,
I'll throw in my 2 cents....the responses you've already got are pretty
much right on, but there's several ways to look at it depending on your
priorities and financial situation. If saving money is the priority
and/or it comes down to doing what it takes to get the thing in the air,
there's no better way than to get a mid-time O-320. Bill VonDane went
this route and I think he said he's got $6K in his engine. Others on the
RV-List have reported getting O-320-H2AD's for as little as $1200-2500
that turned out to be in perfect shape inside. If you get an -H2AD be
very careful to do your homework first....there are AD's on them and some
issues to contend with but if you get educated and find a good one, they
may be the best in the "bang-for-the-buck" category. Lots in the RV-List
archives debating the merits of the good ol' "-AD".
That said...there's other things to consider. Putting a mid- or
high-time engine on your airplane will save you some money now but in a
few years you're looking at a major overhaul. For me this was a big
consideration...I'd like to get it flying and not have to face an
overhaul for a long, long time. If you figure you'll have to spend the
extra cash now or in a few years, it might be worthwhile to consider
doing it now and getting a home equity loan or something like that, and
save yourself the hassle later on.
Personally I've always felt the O-360 is the ideal engine for the
RV's....it's only a few pounds heavier than the O-320 but has 20-30 more
HP....so you get more power with very little penalty (whereas the IO-360
angle valve adds significant amount of weight, is more nose-heavy, more
complex due to the fuel injection system, and sometimes causes cooling
problems...). If you were getting a factory new engine the O-360 is
better bang-for-the-buck than the O-320, but not so with overhauled or
mid-time engines. You'll definitely pay a significant premium for a
used/overhauled O-360. There are not nearly as many of them out there as
O-320's, yet there is a bigger demand for them.....so the
supply-and-demand factor results in an overhauled O-320 being around
$13,500 and the O-360 being $17,500. Doesn't make sense financially
speaking, but I still really, really wanted the O-360 for the better
climb and all-around performance (another consideration for me was my
intent to use a Sensenich F.P. prop....the O-360 prop has no limits up to
2700 rpm and no limits on aerobatics vs. the O-320 prop which has the
2600 rpm and no aerobatics placarded limit).
I started looking around for a good O-360 core a couple years ago.
Looked at Trade-a-Plane and called various salvage yards frequently. At
the time a runout O-360 with a prop-strike was running $8000-8500 at
places like White, Dallas Air Salvage, Wentworth, etc. The less
expensive ones in Trade-a-Plane often had stuff like "no logs" or other
things to avoid. Finally found a first-run O-360 off a Cherokee 180 at
Dallas Air Salvage, no prop strike, good logs, 2000 hrs TTSN. It was
$6500 including lots of accessories that I sold on eBay (vac system,
alternator, oil cooler, etc etc). But it does have some corrosion
because after removal for overhaul it was allowed to sit a humid climate
for a while. I know the crank is serviceable and the cylinders should
bore .010 oversize, and the case is good, so I feel I got my money's
worth. It's currently at Aerosport Power for overhaul and I should get a
call any day now from Bart to tell me the damage to my financial estate.
I expect to come in under his $17,500 price for an overhauled O-360 but
I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
One last thing to consider--resale value. It's hard to say for sure with
RV's since they vary so much in workmanship, panel equipment, overall
appearance, etc....but from the numbers I'm hearing locally, there's a
much higher demand for an O-360 equipped RV than O-320. Some buyers will
pay a really big premium for that extra 20 hp. It doesn't make sense to
your bank account but that's what a lot of people want. A friend
recently bought a Piper Warrior (160 hp)....he really wanted a 180 hp
Archer, but since there are fewer of them and they are much more coveted,
he said the going rate for an otherwise identical airplane was $20 K
higher for the Archer. He couldn't stomach that so he settled for the
Warrior. That price difference is hard for me to believe but regardless,
I think you will more than recover the premium you pay for the O-360 if
you ever sell your RV.
Sorry for writing a book.... maybe it's helpful to somebody considering
the same options. I say go with what makes you happy and figure out a
way to pay for it : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit, O-360....
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 23:03:31 -0400
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: 160 hp engine??
Group,
Pardon this newbie question from a guy planning to build an RV8A.
Although it would be nice to have a 180 or 200 hp new engine....it seems
that it might be more cost effective to purchase a mid time used 160 or
perhaps 180 hp engine, then upgrade later.
I would be interested in your thoughts on this subject. I am sure that
all or most of you have gone down this road before, in your decision
making process.
Tony Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude hold |
Hi Wheeler,
Would you please keep me posted as to progress?
I have no knowledge regarding electronics. I have however successfully built
both of the RMI kits. and would be quite interested in exploring the EZ-trim
idea in some type of kit form.
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
; ;
<"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Altitude hold
>
> Wow,
>
> I'm getting a lot of response to this. Let me see what I get at the end of
> this week, and if it looks OK I'll just order more sets of boards and mail
> them off to y'all at cost plus shipping.
>
> I'll post to the list end of next week, I may have found one small error
in
> the board for the C1 33uf cap. The 78M05 spec lists this as an input V
> filter, but the board has it located on the output side. But its easily
> fixed as there is another hole right next it that will make it work as per
> spec sheet. More later as soon as I clarify with Cliff.
>
> thx
> W
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Denis Walsh
> To: Wheeler North
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude hold
>
> Wow
>
> Some great list work on this altitude hold deal!
>
> The trim kit for modifying from manual with a short cable is sold by
> Warren
> Gretz here in Denver. He is in the yeller pages or let me know and I
> can
> call him for you. He has a web site I believe.
>
> If you ain't sold the $22 board yet I will gladly take it off your
> hands.
>
> Denis Walsh
>
> 4011 S Magnolia Way
>
> Denver, CO 80237
>
> > From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:42:58 -0700
> > To: "'RV-List Digest Server '"
> > Subject: RV-List: Altitude hold
> >
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > Ain't life grand. I spent the morning playing on the internet via
> Cliff
> > Cady's downloadable altitude hold kit instructions and have found and
> > ordered all of the parts except for the cases and wires.
> >
> > Most were as he has listed although I did find the L293D quad driver
> on TI's
> > website and asked for some free samples, The website seemed to like me
> so
> > well see what I get on that one. The 7805 5v regulator ended up being
> a
> > 78M05 regulator, whatever that means???
> >
> > The Download includes the .pcb files for the printed circuit boards.
> One can
> > go to http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/HowWorks.htm to see how
> to
> > download free software that will then allow you to order the boards.
> >
> > Minimum order is 3 for $67 so I may have a few extras if anyone wants
> to go
> > in on this. The rest of the parts have been much less than $100 except
> I
> > ordered the Basic Stamp II starter kit just because I've always wanted
> to
> > play with them. That was $149 plus at
> >
> > http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/stamp_stuff.htm
> >
> > and it included the Basic Stamp II which sells for about $50 by
> itself. The
> > starter kit includes the software and cable for sending Cliff's code
> to the
> > BS2, but I believe the software can be found for free somewhere.
> Cliff's
> > plans list a source for the cable if you don't want to buy the starter
> kit.
> >
> >
> > www.jameco.com has most of the rest of the critical parts with the
> exception
> > of one item, the pressure sensor. This was at www.alliedelec.com.
> >
> > I'll keep you all posted as this thing progresses. I currently have
> manual
> > trim on my 6 so this may need to change, although one design I have
> thought
> > of would be to split the sheath of the manual trim cable right before
> it
> > goes into the control housing and then use a servo to vary the sheath
> length
> > through the 180deg turn towards aft, while the cable/knob still
> controls the
> > trim tab. I will probably go to full elec trim though as the manual
> cable
> > has some significant free play due to the 180deg turn.
> >
> > Anybody remember the plans for installing the trim option with a short
> cable
> > that keeps the servo out of the elevator? This would definately reduce
> the
> > amount of converting I have to do.
> >
> > Cliff's page is
> >
> > http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
> >
> > if you want to download his data.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kings Canyon and Mt Whitney |
Just got back from a little bop to the top of the local world here.
The lower Sierras are beautiful this time of year and before they burned out
I wanted to get a good view of the Canyon in her spring colors. We had spent
a weekend in the area on the ground a few weeks back but got stopped by the
off season road closure just entering the canyon proper. So it was time to
see the area from the air.
It looked like a better day over that way vs along the coast, so with full
tanks and way too many California bugs already bashed along the leading edges
I set off to get some air underneath me (3 miles of it it turns out).
Finding holes opening up in the scud over the central valley, I climbed up
thru a big one over Merced to 7500 ft and picked up my heading to
Independence on the other side of the Pacific Crest, with some of the most
rugged and dramatic country in the West in store. About 20 minutes after
passing abeam KFAT there are few landing sites for about another 20 minutes,
but the beauty abounds. At 16,500 ft, I passed over the canyon, Mt Whitney
and swung out over the Owens Valley.
There were a few bumps and potholes along the way of course but it was just
too cool looking down on the highest peak in the contiguous 48 from my trusty
steed. I was pulling 16 inHg MP with 2400 rpm and even with the oil cooler
door closed, I was showing 164 deg F oil temp at -8 deg C OAT.
Keep pounding 'em, it's worth it.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
Hello,
I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
Thanks
Bill
Sydney
Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
I put the top wing skins on first figuring that I could do a better job
riveting the skins and that the bottom rivets wouldn't be as important. If
I was to do it again I probably wouldn't.
There are a couple of things that come to mind that you might want to be
aware of and read forward in the construction manual to figure out how
you'll accomplish it.
It's a little more difficult to rivet the trailing edge of the bottom skin
when it is done last. You'll notice on the plans that the rear spar flange
has a "Z" shape to it. If you rivet the top skins last, the trailing edge
rivets can be squeezed. It's a long reach to get to the trailing edge
rivets on the bottom skin. Not a big deal but you'll need someone with long
skinny arms.
The biggest problem for me was when it came time to install the flap brace
and flap hinge. If you do the top skin first clamping and holding these
pieces in place becomes difficult. The flap brace is another area that
becomes more difficult because you can not get anything in there to clamp
it.
Again, my recommendation is to read forward and study the plans paying
attention on how you will clamp and hold pieces if the top skins. I didn't
pay attention and it caused me some delays while I had to invent my own
procedures to do some of these things.
I also back riveted one of the top skins and I can not tell the difference
between the skin that was back riveted and the one that was not. Also,
backriveting is more difficult in certain parts because of the taper of the
main wing ribs, even though I was using the offset back rivet set.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
> wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
Bill,
Take a look at your rear spar. Note that you will have to buck the bottom
(wing) row and you will be able to squeeze much of top skin. If one is
bucking, think about how difficult it would be with top on first. I have
talked to several and most say to rivet the bottom skin first.
Good Luck, Keep me posted off list (via e-mail), I am at similar stage. Bob
in Arkansas, riveting leading edge (6).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Another 6 flying --Long |
Listers,
Today was the day I've dreamed of for many years. After more than 3 and
a half years of building my QB RV-6 the day that all builders live for
arrived for me. My inspection was Thursday, and it was difficult to wait
for the ideal conditions but I'm glad we did. Last night was not for
sleeping but for lying in bed, running all possible conditions through
my head in hopes of being better prepared.
Up at 5:00 AM. Still dark but the moon shown through the broken cloud
layer and not a breath of wind. I told my wife that I was pretty sure
this was the day. My two sons and I openned the hanger at 6:30 and
called the few close friends and family that wanted to be there. We
pulled N34KC out into the daylight. I still can't believe I built and
own this beautiful creation. I just melt each time I open the door to
the hangar.
Two other local RV6 drivers were orbiting the the field and a third was
manning the handheld on the ground with the small group of supporters. I
fed in the power in slowly and that last inch of throttle seemed to jerk
the plane forward. Hard right rudder was necessary to keep the torque in
check. The acceleration of the O-360 / Hartzell combo was much more than
I expected. Oh darn, the book says I have to run the engine hard during
the break-in. In the cold central Ca morning air I was indicating over
200mph with 2500 RPM and 25 inches. This is way past exhilarating!
After orbiting the field at around 4000' for about 15 minutes checking
engine temps and other instruments, I slowed it down to check out the
slow flight handling. I stalled clean and with full flaps. It gave
warning and dropped at around 55 indicated w/ flaps. Recovery was
immediate. Af this point I began to let down and prepare for landing. No
surprises and landing was not perfect but close enough. After removing
the cowl and checking for anything out of the ordinary, it was time to
do it some more. I can't believe I put 3.5 hours on it today. Add this
to the 2+ hours of taxi static running time and the hobbs says 5.7. How
the time flies when you have this much fun!
Tomorrow is Monday and boy will it ever be hard to think about work.
It's been said countless times but I'll say it too... Keep up the work
guys (and gals), sooner or later you're going to run out of jobs and
your day will arrive.
It will be sweet. Oh so sweet!
I'm including some pictures you can see at
http://www.lodiboi.com/pictures1/
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, flying!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Thursday, April 25, 2002, at 02:03 PM, Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> So the choice for an acutal functional dependable unit would
> be.......................
>
> Who makes a good unit?
>
> Lets cut to the chase, nothing I like better than exposing an cheap
> imposter piece of crap product on the rv-list. Of course you all know I
> don't like to stir the pot.
I have 2 ACK units, one flying, one not (yet). Easy install, both work
flawlessly when tested (using the button, not crashing). They use the
cheap D-cell batteries and weigh about the same as the Ameri-King.
IIRC, they cost about $20-40 more than the Ameri-king, but hey: "not
having to deal with 'Victor'...priceless."
FWIW, 100% of the people I've asked about Ameriking ELT or encoder have
had at least one problem, and will bend your ear about Victor.
I've never gotten anyone (out of four or five I've asked) to complain
about ACK.
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One down, three to go!! |
Looks great, but why are you hiding behind the rudder? I would be out
there with a big s--- eating grin on my mug. Your craftmanshio shows superb,
>
>>>Looks good. Are those the elevator counter-balance wieghts on the fwd
>>>end of the elevators? Are they different for the 7 than the other
>>>models?
>>>
>>>-
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
Hello William,
My wife and I installed the top skins first and I agree with Mike Nellis's
post.
The top skin that my wife Chris bucked and I riveted conventionally turned
out a bit nicer than the one we back riveted with less difficulty and less
drilled out unsatisfactory rivets. The attempt at back riveting got us about
a third of the way along at which time we reverted to conventional riveting.
For the bottom skins Chris's smaller hand fit into the bottom corner of the
wing root wing walk area and allowed us to avoid use of any pulled rivets
there, a longer home made bucking bar helped.
I riveted the rest of the bottom skins alone and found no problems that
could not be avoided with a reasonable amount of research and pre-planning.
Starting at the root end using strings to pull the skins back, I rolled the
skins on working outward to the tip. I was quite surprised at how quickly it
all went.
Always read ahead, the farther the better, repeatedly read ahead
Happy building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first?
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
> wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur and Christine" <act1(at)reap.org.nz> |
| Subject: | GSPOT accelerometer |
Considering purchasing an EZE Instruments Digital accelerometer, anyone have
any information on them, reliability etc. Any information would be much
appreciated.
My main interest is that I would have an aural warning when reaching the set
g limit. Would be very handy when I'm looking back over my shoulder
executing a break turn into the RV-6 approaching at near mach speed from my
high 5 O'Clock!
Seriously is it a useful instrument or a waist of hard earned money?
Thanks all.
Arthur Whitehead
act1(at)reap.org.nz
RV-8 ZK-KCA Instrument panel almost complete, Wiring almost complete, Fuz
mostly primered ready for final paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | New instruction text. |
>Looks great, but why are you hiding behind the rudder? I would be out
>there with a big s--- eating grin on my mug. Your craftmanshio shows
>superb,
>
Thanks George but that's my son "hiding" behind the rudder (holding it up).
If I would have been smarter I would have had him put his right hand out so
you could see that. He has a 2001 National Champions ring...........wide
receiver:-)
I am posting this picture not as a barb to the builders using prior plans,
but as a means for others to understand just how the new kits are going
together.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/instruct.jpg
This is the 3/4 page on preparing the right elevator. The only two lines on
the next page are "bevel the 713 and "dimple, deburr and prime". The next
page has 10 lines for assembling the right elevator. You will notice,
nowhere does it mention, jig, measure, black line in center, etc. I posted
this just so others would understand when all these new builders don't ask
questions about just how to measure, attach, rivet various assemblies. They
have just about taken all the guess work out of the emps. I've been told
I'm assembling, not building..........I took exception to that:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, Ky
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another 6 flying --Long |
Ken,
Congratulations on the first flight and also kudos on building a first class
RV6!
I noticed the alternator cooling in the engine pics. I did mine the same
way, but changed it to blow towards the side of the alt after a fellow RV'r
reminded me that the rain water would go into the alternator.
Thanks for sharing,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond ok RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Another 6 flying --Long
>
> Listers,
> Today was the day I've dreamed of for many years. After more than 3 and
> a half years of building my QB RV-6 the day that all builders live for
> arrived for me. My inspection was Thursday, and it was difficult to wait
> for the ideal conditions but I'm glad we did. Last night was not for
> sleeping but for lying in bed, running all possible conditions through
> my head in hopes of being better prepared.
> Up at 5:00 AM. Still dark but the moon shown through the broken cloud
> layer and not a breath of wind. I told my wife that I was pretty sure
> this was the day. My two sons and I openned the hanger at 6:30 and
> called the few close friends and family that wanted to be there. We
> pulled N34KC out into the daylight. I still can't believe I built and
> own this beautiful creation. I just melt each time I open the door to
> the hangar.
> Two other local RV6 drivers were orbiting the the field and a third was
> manning the handheld on the ground with the small group of supporters. I
> fed in the power in slowly and that last inch of throttle seemed to jerk
> the plane forward. Hard right rudder was necessary to keep the torque in
> check. The acceleration of the O-360 / Hartzell combo was much more than
> I expected. Oh darn, the book says I have to run the engine hard during
> the break-in. In the cold central Ca morning air I was indicating over
> 200mph with 2500 RPM and 25 inches. This is way past exhilarating!
> After orbiting the field at around 4000' for about 15 minutes checking
> engine temps and other instruments, I slowed it down to check out the
> slow flight handling. I stalled clean and with full flaps. It gave
> warning and dropped at around 55 indicated w/ flaps. Recovery was
> immediate. Af this point I began to let down and prepare for landing. No
> surprises and landing was not perfect but close enough. After removing
> the cowl and checking for anything out of the ordinary, it was time to
> do it some more. I can't believe I put 3.5 hours on it today. Add this
> to the 2+ hours of taxi static running time and the hobbs says 5.7. How
> the time flies when you have this much fun!
> Tomorrow is Monday and boy will it ever be hard to think about work.
> It's been said countless times but I'll say it too... Keep up the work
> guys (and gals), sooner or later you're going to run out of jobs and
> your day will arrive.
> It will be sweet. Oh so sweet!
> I'm including some pictures you can see at
> http://www.lodiboi.com/pictures1/
>
> Ken Cantrell
> RV-6, flying!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling planes around |
Well, guys, you may be right. My engine has no vacuum pump, so that's not a
worry. And the advice to rotate backwards to check compression more safely
came from the A&P who rebuilt my engine for me, so I tend to be gullible that
way.
About this compression thing, and starting the engine by letting the prop
rebound forward off the compression of a cylinder ... seems like we have a
situation where the compression on one cylinder (the one we are "backing
into") is enough to propel the prop forward into the next cylinder's
compression stroke and then up to TDC (impulse coupling release point), in
order for accidental ignition/engine start to occur. I'm not an engineer,
and don't play one on TV, but I think in order for this to happen, we must
have either a cylinder with much better compression than the next one in the
firing order, or an engine with no friction losses, i.e., a perpetual motion
machine, or perhaps some other form of ignition which can occur with the
magnetos being run backward. Thoughts on how this is physically possible?
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another 6 flying --Long |
Ken,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly Airport)
>From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Another 6 flying --Long
>Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:22:21 -0700
>
>
>Listers,
>Today was the day I've dreamed of for many years.
>It's been said countless times but I'll say it too... Keep up the work
>guys (and gals), sooner or later you're going to run out of jobs and
>your day will arrive.
>It will be sweet. Oh so sweet!
>I'm including some pictures you can see at
>http://www.lodiboi.com/pictures1/
>
>Ken Cantrell
>RV-6, flying!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
>How about a little informal poll on how many of us are interested in a
board? Cost per board should drop rapidly if
>50-100 of us are interested.
>Someone near a pc board shop could then negotiate the best
>price for us.
>Charlie
I'm Interested in a board! Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala, FL. ewspears(at)peoplepc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
Worked great on the RV-4...
----- Original Message -----
From: William Ginn <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first?
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
> wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another 6 flying --Long |
Atta-Boy Ken!!! I wonder if I check his place of employment if I'd be
told... "I'm sorry Ken Cantrell is sick today, would you like to leave a
message?"
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance experience |
Murphy Rebel guy is insuring for 60K, he as less than 200 hrs total time.
Local C182 aslo insured with same agent, with 70K hull and full liability is
$1100, but he is instrument and commercially rated, 500+ hours.
Bob
> >
> >I have almost the exact quote from Nation Air, JT Helms on my RV6. A
friend
> >with a Murphy Rebel (0-320) has a quote with AIG for Liability, hull,
> >inflight for $1200. Maybe the Murphy Rebel is a safer risk?
Bob
>
> I was told by an AIG agent that the premium for hull was only a factor of
> how much you were insuring it for, given the same location coverage (like
> in flight, parked only, etc.) If the Murphy Rebel guy was only insuring
it
> for $30K, then it would be cheaper than one insured for $50K. What does
> matter is pilot hours and experience, which also effects premium.
>
> Gary Liming
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Hi gang,
I will be visiting the Payson and Heber/Overgaard areas in Arizona in two
weeks. Any body live there? I'm considering moving to this area and would
like advice on where to stable my RV-4.
Louis
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
200 exciting Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona RV's |
hi louis
i'm not from arizona, but stayed there on a ranch with my buddy greg deshotel
for a couplw weeks. there was a strip right across the road from his ranch
and they had rv's flying out of there. sorry don't know the pilots. but it
was when i watched them take off is when i decided that rv thing, i think i
will build one myself. now i'm getting close to finished, i'll have to go
back and visit my buddy greg in my rv.
oh yeah watch out for flying saucers near overgaard/heber, 5 fellows claimed
one of them got abducted. they made a movie about it.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics pirep (long) |
> It is rare to see this level of service any more, especially from a "low
> cost" source. It was by far the best experience I've ever had with an
> avionics shop.
I will second this. I won't go into the details. His service and prices
are top notch.
Ross Mickey
RV6A- priming
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
In a message dated 4/28/02 9:11:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au writes:
<< Hello,
I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
Thanks >>
I put my -6 top skins on first and had no problem later with the bottom
skins. To buck the rivets along the inside flange at the bottom of the rear
spar I mostly used a home made bucking bar made from a 1" x 4" x 5" piece of
cold rolled steel bar
(weighing about 4 #) . I just slid this along the flange of the rear spar
while the wings were still hanging rear spar down in the jig by reaching
through the lightening holes in the ribs. Had to have some help running the
rivet gun when the reach got to long for my riveting arm but otherwise no
problem.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | NJ Shore Hanger Space |
Hello Gang,
My wife has won the battle, we are moving to New Jersey. I am looking for hanger
space for my -8 down by Toms River, Allaire or Marlboro... Anyone have or know
of space???
Thanks
Frank Dombroski -8 Finishing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | New Pix posted... |
"'Rv8list@Egroups'"
Hi all...
Once again, thank you for all the supportive e-mail I have been getting
the past few days! I have not flown yet, as I need to get an instructor
sign-off for my insurance, but I have been taxiing a lot...
I have posted some new pix on 8WV to my web site:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/groundpix/index.htm
I have also posted another formation video sent to me by Joseph
Czachorowski: http://vondane.com/rv8a/videos/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | how to find a hidden hole? |
I have bolted my wings on my RV-4 finally! All by myself I might add. Now
come the REALLY fun part of drilling the rear spar. Should be straight
forward but in my case it isn't. I bought the wing kit from another
gentleman who predrilled a hole in the rear wing spar! So now I'm faced
with trying to drill the rear spar without elongating that hole! It is
completely hidden by the tabs on the rear spar carry-through. Does anyone
have any (helpful) suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | New Pix posted... |
Yea, I know... I did alot of that, ain't ground effect wonderful?
I just had to explain to family & friends that they were having "mass
hallucinations" if they might have mistakenly thought they had seen me
flyin'...
> Hi all...
>
> Once again, thank you for all the supportive e-mail I have been getting
> the past few days! I have not flown yet, as I need to get an instructor
> sign-off for my insurance, but I have been taxiing a lot...
>
> I have posted some new pix on 8WV to my web site:
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/groundpix/index.htm
>
> I have also posted another formation video sent to me by Joseph
> Czachorowski: http://vondane.com/rv8a/videos/index.htm
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Challenger Oil Filters |
I used Aircraft Spruce's 'search' feature to order two Champion 48110 oil
filters for my lycoming O-320.
I didn't have the catalog at hand but the search engine quickly found a
CP48110 "Oil Filter" and the price was about what I expected; the "CP" made
me suspicious a bit, so I added in plain English that I wanted CHAMPION
48110 OIL FILTERS.
Naturally they disregarded that and sent me something called a CHALLENGER
48110 OIL FILTER, which looks exactly the size of the Champion 48110 and the
internet web site for the maker says they are FAA approved.
Anyone have experience using the Challenger filter? Any comments one way or
the other - only regarding the oil filter, not the folks at Aircraft Spruce!
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers,
As some of you know, I did some initial design work on an altitude hold module,
driving the elevator trim servo, more than 3 years ago, before my 6A was
flying. Someone pointed me to Cliff Cady's web site, & at that point I put my
design on hold, intending to buy one of his. Unfortunately, when the time
came, he was out of the business.
One of the problems that I had yet to solve was how to get a printed circuit
board made in small quantities. Cliff solved that for me when he recently sent
the package of information on building his device. There's a company that will
make boards cheaply from a design done with their (basic) CAD software. So in
the last couple of months I've been working on this again. I'm not using any
of Cliff's hardware or software design, although both designs use a Basic Stamp
CPU, chosen independently.
Cliff told me that one of his biggest problems was having the users calibrate
the device to each aircraft installation. His design includes a couple of 15
turn potentiometers that need to be adjusted.
While, initially, I had designed in a fancy alphanumeric display, in the end I
decided that this was too complex, too expensive, & took up too much panel
space. Like many of you, I have a Navaid wing leveller with the Smart Coupler
which converts a heading from GPS. The control module for the Smart Coupler is
0.75" x 0.75" with a switch & an LED. My Altitude Hold unit has a control
panel the same size, with a switch & 2 bi-color LEDs. In fact I may make a
unifying face plate for the two functions 1.5" x 0.75". The electronics box,
which may be mounted anywhere, is about 3.5" x 2" x 1" & include relays for
output to directly drive the Matronics Governor. There's a 7 wire cable
connecting the panel unit to the box, with 4 wires from the box to power,
ground, & two relay outputs.
To avoid the calibration problem, the software runs through a calibration cycle
to determine the trim servo response. This data is stored in EEPROM, so only
needs to run on initial installation, although it can be rerun at any time. As
you know, trim servo response also varies dramatically with airspeed, so the
CPU is continuously "learning" how much servo adjustment to make by measuring
the vertical speed change after each servo command. This "smart"
characteristic should make it hold altitude smoothly at different airspeeds &
aircraft loading.
It runs well on my workbench, with a PC providing altitude data & reacting to
trim changes including variable levels of airspeed & turbulence. I hope to
install it on my 6A in the next couple of weeks. If it works well in the air,
& there's enough interest, I may build some units for sale.
====
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 360 hrs
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Count me in.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (Res)
San Antonio
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude Hold
>
>
>How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
>interested in a board? Cost per board should drop rapidly if
>50-100 of us are interested.
>
>Someone near a pc board shop could then negotiate the best
>price for us.
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Challenger Oil Filters |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Found this with a web search. Still don't know about the filter and it's
perfomance but at least we now have an alternative to Champion.
Gary
D & K Aviation certifies new general aviation aircraft oil filter
D & K Aviation received FAA certification of our new "CHALLENGER" line of
general aviation aircraft oil filters.
After two years of development and testing, the full line of "CHALLENGER" oil
filters will be available for distribution beginning in the fourth quarter of 2000.
During rigorous testing at the Milwaukee School of Engineering Fluid Power
Institute and flight testing conduct from D & K Aviation's facilities in
Wilmington, Ohio the "CHALLENGER" oil filter demonstrated its high quality
filtration capabilities which meet or exceed certification standards. "We are
very excited about this certification and the opportunity to offer a high
quality oil filter to the general aviation community at a very competitive
price," said Keri Webb, President of D&K Aviation. "For years general aviation
has had little choice when purchasing an aviation oil filter and price has been
driven by a non-competitive environment. We believe our customers will be very
pleased with our pricing structure for the "CHALLENGER" oil filter."
D & K Aviation has licensed Challenger Aviation
Products, Inc. of Vandalia, Ohio to produce and
distribute the "CHALLENGER" oil filter.
Quoting John :
>
> I used Aircraft Spruce's 'search' feature to order two Champion 48110
> oil
> filters for my lycoming O-320.
> I didn't have the catalog at hand but the search engine quickly found
> a
> CP48110 "Oil Filter" and the price was about what I expected; the "CP"
> made
> me suspicious a bit, so I added in plain English that I wanted
> CHAMPION
> 48110 OIL FILTERS.
>
> Naturally they disregarded that and sent me something called a
> CHALLENGER
> 48110 OIL FILTER, which looks exactly the size of the Champion 48110 and
> the
> internet web site for the maker says they are FAA approved.
>
> Anyone have experience using the Challenger filter? Any comments one way
> or
> the other - only regarding the oil filter, not the folks at Aircraft
> Spruce!
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
No problem at all. I did exactly that and back riveted the entire top skins
but left most of the wing walk ribs unriveted and removed them. I then
riveted the bottom inboard skins by reverse peel, and lastly replaced each
wing walk rib starting with the outboard ribs first and completely riveted
each rib bay as I moved towards the root. This progressed as each
subsequent wing walk rib was replaced in the wing and riveted while I backed
out of the root. The outboard lower section was then riveted through the
inspection hole and reaching in through the tip rib holes. With some
thought to develop a plan before starting, you can get it all done without
any pop rivets using a reverse peel, i. e. You fold or lift gently the
corner of a sheet and rivet at a diagonal across the corner working your way
down and across the sheet. Hence, the "reverse peel". As the sheet begans
to get too stable to squeeze your arm under the skin you should plan to be
either at an inspection hole or the tip rib to get at the inside with the
bucking bars. Careful not to crease the skin by lifting too high too close
to the rivets. You should "roll" the skin down as you rivet. I suggest you
plan your rivet pattern and use a felt tip to mark which rivet lines will
get riveted first, second and so on.
Dick DeCramer
RV6
N500DD
Wiring, plumbing
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first?
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
> wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Counterbalance clearance. |
Well, I called Van's this morning concerning a small problem. Seems Van's
did not trim the skin when they redesigned the counterbalance arm on the pre
punched 7 emps. I was the second person to bring this to their attention.
Below is a picture of the overlap you must trim off on the HS skin.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/c_balance.jpg
Here's the question: How much clearance do others have between the
counterbalance arm and the HS skin?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Counterbalance clearance. |
I would continue with the clearance already established along the side
of the HS aft of where you need to trim.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Dana Overall [mailto:bo124rs(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: Counterbalance clearance.
Well, I called Van's this morning concerning a small problem. Seems
Van's
did not trim the skin when they redesigned the counterbalance arm on the
pre
punched 7 emps. I was the second person to bring this to their
attention.
Below is a picture of the overlap you must trim off on the HS skin.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/c_balance.jpg
Here's the question: How much clearance do others have between the
counterbalance arm and the HS skin?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Challenger Oil Filters |
There also was a "Champ" brand at one time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: RV-List: Challenger Oil Filters
I used Aircraft Spruce's 'search' feature to order two Champion 48110 oil
filters for my lycoming O-320.
I didn't have the catalog at hand but the search engine quickly found a
CP48110 "Oil Filter" and the price was about what I expected; the "CP" made
me suspicious a bit, so I added in plain English that I wanted CHAMPION
48110 OIL FILTERS.
Naturally they disregarded that and sent me something called a CHALLENGER
48110 OIL FILTER, which looks exactly the size of the Champion 48110 and the
internet web site for the maker says they are FAA approved.
Anyone have experience using the Challenger filter? Any comments one way or
the other - only regarding the oil filter, not the folks at Aircraft Spruce!
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
One more "NO COMPLAINT" for ACK.
D Walsh 750 hours, 1300 landings, no problems
> From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:43:33 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2002, at 02:03 PM, Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>>
>> So the choice for an acutal functional dependable unit would
>> be.......................
>>
>> Who makes a good unit?
>>
>> Lets cut to the chase, nothing I like better than exposing an cheap
>> imposter piece of crap product on the rv-list. Of course you all know I
>> don't like to stir the pot.
>
> I have 2 ACK units, one flying, one not (yet). Easy install, both work
> flawlessly when tested (using the button, not crashing). They use the
> cheap D-cell batteries and weigh about the same as the Ameri-King.
>
> IIRC, they cost about $20-40 more than the Ameri-king, but hey: "not
> having to deal with 'Victor'...priceless."
>
> FWIW, 100% of the people I've asked about Ameriking ELT or encoder have
> had at least one problem, and will bend your ear about Victor.
>
> I've never gotten anyone (out of four or five I've asked) to complain
> about ACK.
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
04/29/2002 04:47:17 PM,
Serialize complete at 04/29/2002 04:47:17 PM
www.olimex.com offers boards at lower pricing yet, it takes a little
longer to get the boards from Bulgaria, but they are beautiful, double
sided, solder mask and silkscreen both sides.
Scott
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
04/28/2002 10:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altitude Hold
Tooling costs for production/prototyping fab usually run from about $275
to $325 and then board costs are quite small from there on out, maybe
$3-$5 each. If you order more than 7-10 pieces it will most likely be
cheaper to go with a production run. Limited order runs are a great deal
if you only need two or three boards. These are roughly $25-$35 each,
regardless of order volume, minimum order 2-3.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
I'd take two boards, with or without the rest of the parts.
Mike
RV-4 & RV-9A
>
>
>How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
>interested in a board? Cost per board should drop rapidly if
>50-100 of us are interested.
>
>Someone near a pc board shop could then negotiate the best
>price for us.
>
>Charlie
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
Can anyone give me an idea of where to mount my handheld in the cockpit
of my -8A? I don't have my radio installed yet, so I will be flying
with it for a while... I have an A/C adapter, headset adapter and mic
jack...
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | FREE EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Eric Henson
Hey, All--
Here's the deal. The EZ-Trim that I was going to install in a
neighbor's -6A is available.
Conditions: (1) EZ-Trim with Instructions and (1) Matronics Mk III
controller to:
Who ever has an RV with electric elevator trim and a Navaid and willing
to do flight testing with the EZ-Trim and report back to The List.
Probably should be someone with some hours in the RV. The Super 6 has
manual trim and I'm not changing.
Flight testing methodology to include straight-and-level and standard
rate angle of bank turns at various altitudes, speeds and different
gross weights. Also to include altitude hold data when Navaid captures
a GPS track--(Initially, this should be without added throttle).
Money: the EZ-Trim and Mark III will be sent to the tester with the
provision that if the tester likes the unit and reports back to The
List with the flight info, then he/she will pay me $200.00. If the
tester does not like the unit it will be returned to me. If I don't get
the money I will contact Eric Henson to berate you on The List and then
drive up to Orlando and kick Bill Shook out of his misery bed and get
him to come and stand (one pissed off Marine) at your doorway.
I may change my mind in the morning, when the beer wears off (my wife is
out of town)--Let me know what you think.
Boyd
RV-Super 6 what ever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
>>How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
>>interested in a board? Cost per board should drop rapidly if
>>50-100 of us are interested.
>>
Gee, there's already one of these things in my panel (well, on the tube,
at least!)
Count me in and HURRY!
From the Possumworks
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how to find a hidden hole? |
Hi Scott,
I did the very same thing to myself.
Here is what I did:
Use a piece of scrap aluminum suitably sized to allow it to fit over the
hole you wish to index with enough extra length that can be taped or clamped
in place. I'll call this piece the indexer.
Use a spacer to hold the "indexer" piece away from the spar the same
distance as the thickness of the spar carry through.
(If I remember correctly I bent the indexer so that I could clamp it to the
angle part of the spar that the skin fits to)
Just as a extra safety, draw reference lines around the piece where it is
clamped or taped and anywhere that will allow you to remove and replace it
in exactly the same spot.
Match drill a hole in the "indexer" to the existing hole in the spar.
(At this point I used a drill shank to align the holes and then clamped the
pieces together.)
Now slide the spar into position taking care not to move the indexer.
The indexed hole should now be blanked by the spar carry through.
After you have double checked that your rigging is right on and that the
indexer is still in place correctly, you can mark the indexed hole position
on the spar and then after checking for edge distance, drill through the
indexed reference hole and then carry on as required.
When doing this type of drilling always start with a smaller than needed
drill and work up one drill size at a time. this will allow you to see a
misalignment coming into play and take appropriate steps to correct it. It
will also ensure a nice round hole.
If the already drilled hole is to the called out size and you do have a
slight misalignment of the holes you should be able to re-drill the hole to
the next bolt size up without worry
I hope this description makes sense to you, I just re-read it and felt a bit
confused
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: how to find a hidden hole?
>
> I have bolted my wings on my RV-4 finally! All by myself I might add.
Now
> come the REALLY fun part of drilling the rear spar. Should be straight
> forward but in my case it isn't. I bought the wing kit from another
> gentleman who predrilled a hole in the rear wing spar! So now I'm faced
> with trying to drill the rear spar without elongating that hole! It is
> completely hidden by the tabs on the rear spar carry-through. Does anyone
> have any (helpful) suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is and I
would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
Thanks
Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Stopover in SD |
Stein
Hello, have had your offer in mind since you posted it last month.
I will be included in a group of three RV's that are heading to OSH via the
Dakotas on the weekend before the show and am wondering if the offer
still stands. We will likely be thru the area on Saturday the 20th of July.
Please let me know if the offer still stands. Hope to see you this summer.
George Meketa
RV8 86 hours-went to the paint shop this morning
> Just a quick note to let you guys know about a "stopover" in SD if your
trip
> to or from Oshkosh requires an overnight (from the west coast).
>
> My dad lives just outside of Sturgis, SD and has a 75'x2500' grass strip
in
> the middle of a couple thousand acres. The house has 4-5 empty bedrooms
> with double beds for you to use.
>
> Anyone who desires a place to spend the night on the trip to or from the
> show, is more than welcome to stop there, It's a free bed and shower. His
> strip is about 2 minutes from the Sturgis airport (fuel), few more minutes
> to Mt.Rushmore and a bit longer to devil's tower. He has 1 open faced
hangar
> to park your bird in, along with acres of tie down spots.
>
> If you are interested, please contact me offline. I'm going to put some
> arial photos and chart designations on my website to show the strip.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I see reference to drawing SK-90A on builder's web sites while
researching engine related stuff. Where do I find this drawing?!
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/fwf
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do the
aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
with a good way to stop the air leak?
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/29/02 11:24:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do the
aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
with a good way to stop the air leak?
Vince Welch >>
Mine have a noticable leak when closed. I have no idea whether the aluminum
vents have the same "feature".
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how to find a hidden hole? |
Scott:
clamp the spar and the rear attachment tab together with a hole duplicator
between them. Drill through the duplicator.
Sounds real easy..... probably isn't.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
"VanArtsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I have bolted my wings on my RV-4 finally! All by myself I might add. Now
> come the REALLY fun part of drilling the rear spar. Should be straight
> forward but in my case it isn't. I bought the wing kit from another
> gentleman who predrilled a hole in the rear wing spar! So now I'm faced
> with trying to drill the rear spar without elongating that hole! It is
> completely hidden by the tabs on the rear spar carry-through. Does anyone
> have any (helpful) suggestions?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Bill:
I used my Icom IC-A22 in an Ercoupe for 2 years until a decent radio was
installed. I had it clipped to the side of the cockpit, right by the side
of the windscreen so that the antenna was sticking up above the instrument
panel. Let the antenna see some sky in other words.
This location along with a headset adapter worked very well. Great radio
IMHO.
Hope this helps. Good luck with the test flight!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
Subject: RV-List: Handheld...
>
> Can anyone give me an idea of where to mount my handheld in the cockpit
> of my -8A? I don't have my radio installed yet, so I will be flying
> with it for a while... I have an A/C adapter, headset adapter and mic
> jack...
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
and see what I can find...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
Subject:
-->
Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do
the
aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
with a good way to stop the air leak?
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Vince,
Don't know about the plastic ones, but the alum. ones don't leak, but
it does cause your wallet to be much lighter ;-)
Laird RV-6 480 hrs
SoCal
>
>
>Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
>provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do the
>aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
>with a good way to stop the air leak?
>
>Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
In a message dated 4/29/2002 1:18:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
> It runs well on my workbench, with a PC providing altitude data & reacting
> to
> trim changes including variable levels of airspeed & turbulence. I hope to
> install it on my 6A in the next couple of weeks. If it works well in the
> air,
> & there's enough interest, I may build some units for sale.
Chris-
A good plan. Please let us all know how it works out. I for one am
definitely interested. I have a spare 3 1/8" instrument hole that I could
adapt to fit it in the panel right next to the Navaid, hopefully.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
> found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
> and see what I can find...
>
> -Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject:
>
> -->
>
> Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
> provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do
> the
> aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
>
> with a good way to stop the air leak?
>
> Vince Welch
>
I have those and do not fine it to be a problem, yes there is a small air leak
but I like a little fresh air moving around in the cockpit all the time.
One fix that some are doing is to put a small dam of silicon around the
front top 1/2 of the butterfly and back 1/2 of the butterfly so when it is
closed the butterfly well seal against the silicon. It only takes a very small
amount to make the seal. You well have to put something on the butterfly to keep
the
silicon from sticking to it.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
N8292W(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
> probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
> these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is and I
> would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
Mike:
I think you want to put it on the underside where neither sunlight nor
the exhaust can influence it. I mounted mine on the underside of the
right wing about 1 inch aft of my LRI probe - (which is like a fat Pitot
tube, if you're not familiar with LRI). It's at the same point along
the wing where a pitot tube would be mounted. My plane isn't flyin yet,
so I can't comment on how well this will work.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
Chris: Get it together and add me to the list of customers. Must be easy to
install and cheep. I mean have good value. Keep us informed, Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Altitude Hold |
Hi,
I am probably a couple of years away from building a altitude hold.
However if the price goes low enough for the board I may buy a couple.
Let me know if the price drops towards single digits!
Here are a few pictures of my trim tab! http://www.ahyup.com
Warren
RV9 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry M Rhea" <rv6larry(at)dslextreme.com> |
Vince
I haven't installed mine yet but installation instructions say the
following......We found that the control vane in the eyeball ventilator does
not seal completely.This can be corrected by molding a thin seal strip
around the edge of the vane where it contacts the inside walls of the
outlet(see drawing).Sand the edge of the vane to promote adhesion ,and wax
the mating surface on the inside of the air passage .Smear a small amount of
RTV onto the edge of the vane and rotate the vane to its closed
position.Permit to cure for 24 hours.Rotate the vane to 'open" and trim any
excess RTV with a razor blade.
Good Luck
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Air Vents
>
>
> I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
> found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
> and see what I can find...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject:
>
>
> -->
>
>
> Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
> provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do
> the
> aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
>
> with a good way to stop the air leak?
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:12:12 AM
Thanks a ton for all the responses guys. That really hits its mark. My
mission now is to totally expose the guy to the point that he at least
takes "Ameri" out of the name of his cheap piece of sh** company. Maybe he
can change it to "Taiwani King" which would be more indicitave of what he
produces.
Eric
Denis Walsh (at)matronics.com on 04/29/2002 07:27:14
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
One more "NO COMPLAINT" for ACK.
D Walsh 750 hours, 1300 landings, no problems
> From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:43:33 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
>
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2002, at 02:03 PM, Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>>
>> So the choice for an acutal functional dependable unit would
>> be.......................
>>
>> Who makes a good unit?
>>
>> Lets cut to the chase, nothing I like better than exposing an cheap
>> imposter piece of crap product on the rv-list. Of course you all know I
>> don't like to stir the pot.
>
> I have 2 ACK units, one flying, one not (yet). Easy install, both work
> flawlessly when tested (using the button, not crashing). They use the
> cheap D-cell batteries and weigh about the same as the Ameri-King.
>
> IIRC, they cost about $20-40 more than the Ameri-king, but hey: "not
> having to deal with 'Victor'...priceless."
>
> FWIW, 100% of the people I've asked about Ameriking ELT or encoder have
> had at least one problem, and will bend your ear about Victor.
>
> I've never gotten anyone (out of four or five I've asked) to complain
> about ACK.
>
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:16:42 AM
I was thinking about putting mine in a scat tube going to a cockpit vent.
It won't come into contact with direct sunlight, scat will not transfer
heat as well as aluminum, it will get plenty of airflow of ambient air, and
its easy with a small probe.
Eric
N8292W(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/29/2002 10:39:55 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: OAT location
I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is and
I
would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
Thanks
Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
I've seen them mounted inside NACA ducts. In fact, that's what Lyle Hefel
did with his on his Oshkosh Grand Champ a couple of years ago.
Mark Dickens
-8 Fuse/N905MD Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
> I was thinking about putting mine in a scat tube going to a cockpit vent.
> It won't come into contact with direct sunlight, scat will not transfer
> heat as well as aluminum, it will get plenty of airflow of ambient air,
and
> its easy with a small probe.
>
> Eric
>
>
> N8292W(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/29/2002 10:39:55 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
> I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
> probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
> these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is
and
> I
> would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
> Thanks
> Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
I put mine in the cockpit vent (RV-6A) and found that it reads about 10
degrees too warm in flight. I believe the vents probably pick up a little
engine heat because the cowling doesn't create an airtight seal.
I have not remounted it yet but I know a couple of people have put the probe
under the wing near or on the inspection cover. One person mounted it under
the inspection cover and used a small fairing like where the rudder cable
exits the fuselage to keep the direct wind off the probe.
Don't know how well it works yet.
Happy building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying but for sale)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
> I was thinking about putting mine in a scat tube going to a cockpit vent.
> It won't come into contact with direct sunlight, scat will not transfer
> heat as well as aluminum, it will get plenty of airflow of ambient air,
and
> its easy with a small probe.
>
> Eric
>
>
> N8292W(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/29/2002 10:39:55 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
> I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
> probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
> these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is
and
> I
> would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
> Thanks
> Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Hello, Vince:
The attached Vans quote that was posted by Bill VonDone seems to work very
well. Vans workaround description is good. I have done this and was
impressed with the result (not flying yet). The aluminum units would be
airtight. I sourced them everywhere - all very expensive. When I held up
Van's vents to the light I saw lots of it all around the closed butterfly.
I followed Van's instructions precisely. It was easy and worked fine. You
cannot get the RTV tight to the hinge point perfectly but persist as best
you can. In my case I closed off about 99% of the excess light. It's
basically airtight.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 10% Complete
> Vans Quote: ....We found that the control vane in the eyeball ventilator
does
> not seal completely. This can be corrected by molding a thin seal strip
> around the edge of the vane where it contacts the inside walls of the
> outlet(see drawing). Sand the edge of the vane to promote adhesion ,and
wax
> the mating surface on the inside of the air passage . Smear a small
amount of
> RTV onto the edge of the vane and rotate the vane to its closed
> position. Permit to cure for 24 hours.Rotate the vane to 'open" and trim
any
> excess RTV with a razor blade.
________________________________________________________________________________
Some have had inaccuracies using the duct location due to cowling air bypass
and/or the interior temp (e.g. when heater is used) on the back side of the
probe (check the archives). I chose to mount mine on the underside of the
right wing root fairing to keep it on the "ambient" side of the prop wash,
away from the exhaust, the sun and the interior.
Greg
>
>
> I've seen them mounted inside NACA ducts. In fact, that's what Lyle Hefel
> did with his on his Oshkosh Grand Champ a couple of years ago.
>
> Mark Dickens
> -8 Fuse/N905MD Reserved
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
> >
> >
> > I was thinking about putting mine in a scat tube going to a
> cockpit vent.
> > It won't come into contact with direct sunlight, scat will not transfer
> > heat as well as aluminum, it will get plenty of airflow of ambient air,
> and
> > its easy with a small probe.
> >
> > Eric
> >
> >
> > N8292W(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/29/2002 10:39:55 PM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > cc:
> > Subject: RV-List: OAT location
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it
> has a small
> > probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
> > these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is
> and
> > I
> > would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
> > Thanks
> > Mike Kraus
> > RV-4 wiring......
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | how to find a hidden hole? |
I don't know of a hole duplicator that large. Does someone sell one for AN4
/ 5 bolt holes? Also, I don't know that it would fit between the rear spar
and the tab that sticks out of the fuselage. It's worth thinking about
though.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [mailto:aronsond(at)pacbell.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: how to find a hidden hole?
Scott:
clamp the spar and the rear attachment tab together with a hole duplicator
between them. Drill through the duplicator.
Sounds real easy..... probably isn't.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
"VanArtsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I have bolted my wings on my RV-4 finally! All by myself I might add.
Now
> come the REALLY fun part of drilling the rear spar. Should be straight
> forward but in my case it isn't. I bought the wing kit from another
> gentleman who predrilled a hole in the rear wing spar! So now I'm faced
> with trying to drill the rear spar without elongating that hole! It is
> completely hidden by the tabs on the rear spar carry-through. Does anyone
> have any (helpful) suggestions?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Surely this is in the archives. What the hell I don't know how to use the
archives, either.
Anyway I am on my third location, having rejected the NACA vent and the scat
tube going thereto.
Current location for my Radio Shack special is within the upper cuff fairing
on the left main landing gear. Access is easy here, either through one of
the holes to the wing from the fuselage, or drill one in the belly to the
cuff.
For those of you who are nose gear challenged or otherwise have the main
gear in the wrong place, I think that with in the wing root fairing space
would work just as well.
My problem with the NACA was it read high as mentioned. The scat also read
high, because it picked up cockpit heat (or cold)
> From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 08:22:16 -0400 08:16:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
>
> I was thinking about putting mine in a scat tube going to a cockpit vent.
> It won't come into contact with direct sunlight, scat will not transfer
> heat as well as aluminum, it will get plenty of airflow of ambient air, and
> its easy with a small probe.
>
> Eric
>
>
> N8292W(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 04/29/2002 10:39:55 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: OAT location
>
>
>
> I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a small
> probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
> these? I was thinking the bottom, but that is where the hot exhaust is and
> I
> would imagine it will give inaccurate readings. Any advice?
> Thanks
> Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring......
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
a local rv 6a guy had his probe mounted in the naca scoop on the right side
of the fuse where vans recommends you put the scoop. the problem is that the
slipstream carries heat from the oil door to the naca scoop. he found this
out as it felt as if he were running a heater all the time out of the right
vent. he taped the oil door with duct tape and it turned off the heater, and
his probe would read correct. if you put it in the naca scoop, put it in the
left one.
scott
tampa
probe in left naca scoop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Counterbalance clearance. |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
04/30/2002 10:13:16 AM
I wonder how much weight Vans saved by the newly designed counter weights?
Too much rework for me to consider at this point (emp. done).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
My black plastic vents do indeed leak some air.
I have found that some air leaks around the butterfly no matter what;
however, it leaks a lot more if the butterfly is not fairly tight. If loose
it will "blow itself open" during high speed flight.
Who wants to fly slow??
A little known fix is to tighten the thing up. You can do this by rotating
the "eyeball" thingy to a caterwampus position, which exposes the pivot
screws. Then use an itty bitty allen wrench to tighten up each side of the
butterfly. This will cause it to jam in to the closed position a little
better.
I did not try the RTV attack since I had no faith in it staying put, and
also since I got the leak down to a mild level.
Sorry I don't have blue prints or photos of this fix, but it has been flight
tested
DLW
> From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:21:58 -0400
> To: "\(RV LIST\)"
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Air Vents
>
>
> Hello, Vince:
>
> The attached Vans quote that was posted by Bill VonDone seems to work very
> well. Vans workaround description is good. I have done this and was
> impressed with the result (not flying yet). The aluminum units would be
> airtight. I sourced them everywhere - all very expensive. When I held up
> Van's vents to the light I saw lots of it all around the closed butterfly.
> I followed Van's instructions precisely. It was easy and worked fine. You
> cannot get the RTV tight to the hinge point perfectly but persist as best
> you can. In my case I closed off about 99% of the excess light. It's
> basically airtight.
> Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> Finish Kit 10% Complete
>
>> Vans Quote: ....We found that the control vane in the eyeball ventilator
> does
>> not seal completely. This can be corrected by molding a thin seal strip
>> around the edge of the vane where it contacts the inside walls of the
>> outlet(see drawing). Sand the edge of the vane to promote adhesion ,and
> wax
>> the mating surface on the inside of the air passage . Smear a small
> amount of
>> RTV onto the edge of the vane and rotate the vane to its closed
>> position. Permit to cure for 24 hours.Rotate the vane to 'open" and trim
> any
>> excess RTV with a razor blade.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: how to find a hidden hole? |
Why not make one? Shouldn't be too hard to take a piece of steel. Drill and
ream a hole to 1/4" Cut a "u" out of it to just fit over the combination tab
and wing spar. Slide a precision 1/4" bolt into the existing hole from one
side and carefully drill from the other side of the steel block.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: how to find a hidden hole?
I don't know of a hole duplicator that large. Does someone sell one for AN4
/ 5 bolt holes? Also, I don't know that it would fit between the rear spar
and the tab that sticks out of the fuselage. It's worth thinking about
though.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [mailto:aronsond(at)pacbell.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: how to find a hidden hole?
Scott:
clamp the spar and the rear attachment tab together with a hole duplicator
between them. Drill through the duplicator.
Sounds real easy..... probably isn't.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
"VanArtsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I have bolted my wings on my RV-4 finally! All by myself I might add.
Now
> come the REALLY fun part of drilling the rear spar. Should be straight
> forward but in my case it isn't. I bought the wing kit from another
> gentleman who predrilled a hole in the rear wing spar! So now I'm faced
> with trying to drill the rear spar without elongating that hole! It is
> completely hidden by the tabs on the rear spar carry-through. Does anyone
> have any (helpful) suggestions?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Dear Folks,
I am in need to purchase an ELT (No, obviously not the A.-K. Unit!)
Question:
What Company carries the best price for the ACK (E-01) ELT??
You can also reply off list, if you wish.
Thanks,
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | plastic eyeball vents |
SNIP Mine have a noticable leak when closed. I have no idea whether the
aluminum
vents have the same "feature". SNIP
You can remedy this problem. It's easiest to do it when it's still on the
bench. Scuff the inside edge of the eyeball with scotchbrite or sandpaper.
Wipe the dust out. Open the vent fully and put a thin layer of grease on
the flap. Close it. Put a bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the
flap. Be sure to seal the side that doesn't move. After the caulk sets,
open the flap and wipe off the grease and marvel at your 100% leak proof
ball valve.
You can also stick a couple strips of foam weatherstrip inside the vent to
block the air when closed if you don't like the caulk technique.
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Legend has it that cockpit heat will affect OAT probes mounted in the NACA duct.
I have no first hand experience with this. I mounted mine on the fuselage bottom
directly behind the main gear fairing.
Gary
Quoting "Mark D. Dickens" :
>
>
> I've seen them mounted inside NACA ducts. In fact, that's what Lyle
> Hefel
> did with his on his Oshkosh Grand Champ a couple of years ago.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
No way would a standard strap duplicator fit in there between two pieces
of .125 spar material.
I think what I would do is make a thin strap duplicator of sorts:
1) Get some thin stock that will fit in between the wing and fuse spars,
that covers the spar overlap area and protrudes an additional inch or so
above (call this "strap #1").
2) Cut a duplicate piece out of thicker stock (strap #2). Make a 1/2" or
so wide .125 spacer that goes between these two, riveted along the top edge
of the two "straps".
3) Drill a 5/16" hole through both straps (with some scrap .125 in between)
near where the original hole is in the rear wing spar.
4) Get some 5/16" O.D. tubing, cut length to thickness of the wing spar
plus the thickness of "strap #1".
5) Insert tubing into rear wing spar hole, put homemade strap duplicator in
place on the tubing, insert wing in between fuse spars.
6) Set wing sweep/incidence, verify proper edge distances all around
(MINIMUM 5/8" from hole center to any spar edge for a 5/16" bolt).
7) Ideally, use a 5/16" transfer punch to centerpunch exactly where the
rearmost fuse spar must be drilled. If not, carefully use the strap
duplicator hole as a guide to drill rearmost fuse spar.
8) Remove strap duplicator, remount wing, make sure the new hole and wing
spar still have correct sweep/incidence, clamp and drill thru forward fuse
spar.
Try for more than 5/8" edge distance, if things don't work out as planned
you might be able to go to the next size bolt, but then you will need more
edge distance as well (3/8" bolt needs 3/4" all-around instead of 5/8").
If the incidence is off a little, just make sure the other wing incidence
matches the first wing, you can compensate on the horizontal stab incidence
angle.
Good luck. I sweated this with *no* pre-drilled holes .
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
>
> I don't know of a hole duplicator that large. Does someone sell one
> for AN4 / 5 bolt holes? Also, I don't know that it would fit between
> the rear spar and the tab that sticks out of the fuselage. It's worth
> thinking about though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear spar hole |
there is no room for your standard strap duplicator to go between the rear
spar of the wings, and inside the rear spar socket. if you have a lazar
pointer, you can make a temporary bracket so the light is shooting dead
center of the hole on the wing spar ,( mount the bracket on the wing spar so
the wing can move and the light will follow staying dead center of the hole
in the rear spar.) slide the rear spar into the socket, set your incidence,
look at the lazar light it is where your hole needs to be on the socket, get
someone to spot your drill for level and plumb so your hole will be straight
and clean through all 3 metals. you can buy these lights almost anywere for
under 10 dollars.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Does anyone know where I could get a new magneto harness for the left mag
only? I have the Light speed on the right. Aircraft Spruce used to sell the
1/2 sets but when I called to order it they said they were all discontinued.
I hate to buy a whole set just to use 1/2 of it.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, $%*&##@ canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Northern Michigan Rv-Event |
Fellow builders and would be builders,
Our EAA Chapter 678 in Cadillac MI will be hosting a fly-in (Michigan Wing
of Vans Airforce) on this Saturday morning May 4th. It will be at the
Wexford County Airport on the south side of the field at our clubhouse. On
site we have our 8 under way for anyone to see and another member( Dave
Ford) has a 6 underway nearby. We hosted this event two years ago and had a
nice turnout of 17 rvs' as well as others. THe members of our chapter will
have Chili and more available for lunch and we plan to be there early am
thru the afternoon. Anyone is wwelcome to fly in or drive in. If you are
not familiar with Wexford Cty or our location to access the south side of
the field by car, pleae email me for directions.
Hope to see some of you there as the weather forecast looks good.
Doug Bell, PGA
Rv-8 qb
Manistee/Cadillac MI
231-398-9106 home
231-723-8874 work
231-920-4285 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plastic eyeball vents |
>
>SNIP Mine have a noticable leak when closed. I have no idea whether the
>aluminum
>vents have the same "feature". SNIP
>
>You can remedy this problem. It's easiest to do it when it's still on the
>bench. Scuff the inside edge of the eyeball with scotchbrite or sandpaper.
>Wipe the dust out. Open the vent fully and put a thin layer of grease on
>the flap. Close it. Put a bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the
>flap. Be sure to seal the side that doesn't move. After the caulk sets,
>open the flap and wipe off the grease and marvel at your 100% leak proof
>ball valve.
>
This does indeed work very well. One extra tidbit I might add is to use
black RTV. Can barely see it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
no cold air leakage on my GIB's naughty bits
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Or, you can splurge by spending $100 on some very high quality allumimum
eyeball vents and forget about it. They are worth every dime, IMHO.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry M Rhea" <rv6larry(at)dslextreme.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
>
> Vince
> I haven't installed mine yet but installation instructions say the
> following......We found that the control vane in the eyeball ventilator
does
> not seal completely.This can be corrected by molding a thin seal strip
> around the edge of the vane where it contacts the inside walls of the
> outlet(see drawing).Sand the edge of the vane to promote adhesion ,and wax
> the mating surface on the inside of the air passage .Smear a small amount
of
> RTV onto the edge of the vane and rotate the vane to its closed
> position.Permit to cure for 24 hours.Rotate the vane to 'open" and trim
any
> excess RTV with a razor blade.
> Good Luck
> Larry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Air Vents
>
>
> >
> >
> > I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
> > found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
> > and see what I can find...
> >
> > -Bill
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject:
> >
> >
> > -->
> >
> >
> > Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
> > provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do
> > the
> > aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
> >
> > with a good way to stop the air leak?
> >
> > Vince Welch
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sturdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
I note that Van sells the AmeriKing AK-450 ELT in the Accessory
Catalog. I suggest that every one who is unsatisfied with this ELT
should sent an e-mail to Van's explaining what happened, and
suggesting that Van should no longer sell these units.
If they don't provide good quality stuff, and good service, they
shouldn't be getting our business.
Kevin Horton
in the market for a good value ELT
>
>
>Thanks a ton for all the responses guys. That really hits its mark. My
>mission now is to totally expose the guy to the point that he at least
>takes "Ameri" out of the name of his cheap piece of sh** company. Maybe he
>can change it to "Taiwani King" which would be more indicitave of what he
>produces.
>
>Eric
>
>
>Denis Walsh (at)matronics.com on 04/29/2002 07:27:14
>PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To:
>cc:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
>
>
>One more "NO COMPLAINT" for ACK.
>
>D Walsh 750 hours, 1300 landings, no problems
>
>> From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
>> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:43:33 -0500
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT reset problem
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, April 25, 2002, at 02:03 PM, Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> So the choice for an acutal functional dependable unit would
>>> be.......................
>>>
>>> Who makes a good unit?
>>>
>>> Lets cut to the chase, nothing I like better than exposing an cheap
>>> imposter piece of crap product on the rv-list. Of course you all know I
>>> don't like to stir the pot.
>>
>> I have 2 ACK units, one flying, one not (yet). Easy install, both work
>> flawlessly when tested (using the button, not crashing). They use the
>> cheap D-cell batteries and weigh about the same as the Ameri-King.
>>
>> IIRC, they cost about $20-40 more than the Ameri-king, but hey: "not
>> having to deal with 'Victor'...priceless."
>>
>> FWIW, 100% of the people I've asked about Ameriking ELT or encoder have
>> had at least one problem, and will bend your ear about Victor.
>>
>> I've never gotten anyone (out of four or five I've asked) to complain
>> about ACK.
>>
>> James
> >
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altitude Hold |
In a message dated 4/29/2002 6:47:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com writes:
<< How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
>interested in a board? >>
If it is easy for a pinhead like me to install, I would buy one.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FREE EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
>
>Hey, All--
>
>Here's the deal. The EZ-Trim that I was going to install in a
>neighbor's -6A is available.
>
>Conditions: (1) EZ-Trim with Instructions and (1) Matronics Mk III
>controller to:
>
>Who ever has an RV with electric elevator trim and a Navaid and willing
>to do flight testing with the EZ-Trim and report back to The List.
>Probably should be someone with some hours in the RV. The Super 6 has
>manual trim and I'm not changing.
>
>Flight testing methodology to include straight-and-level and standard
>rate angle of bank turns at various altitudes, speeds and different
>gross weights. Also to include altitude hold data when Navaid captures
>a GPS track--(Initially, this should be without added throttle).
>
>Money: the EZ-Trim and Mark III will be sent to the tester with the
>provision that if the tester likes the unit and reports back to The
>List with the flight info, then he/she will pay me $200.00. If the
>tester does not like the unit it will be returned to me. If I don't get
>the money I will contact Eric Henson to berate you on The List and then
>drive up to Orlando and kick Bill Shook out of his misery bed and get
>him to come and stand (one pissed off Marine) at your doorway.
>
>I may change my mind in the morning, when the beer wears off (my wife is
>out of town)--Let me know what you think.
>
>Boyd
>RV-Super 6 what ever
And let's not forget testing at CGs close to the forward and aft
limits. Some of us are building the manly RVs with centreline
seating (and hence see large CG shifts with and without pax), not the
side-by-side transport aircraft type RVs. ;)
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (putting on flame-proof suit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Counterbalance clearance. archive |
Thanks Todd. What I wanted to do was stop drill the corner and use that as
my radius.
I ended up taking 27mm off the aft HS skin to allow proper clearance for the
counterbalance support. This is for pre punched 7 emps shipped around the
end of Feb. 2002 and after. This allowed for the same clearance on the
inboard side.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
My understanding of the original post was for a bare circuit board. I'm too
electron challenged to start from a bare board - but if you're talking about
a completed unit or even a kit, I'm in.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K bought!
>
> In a message dated 4/29/2002 6:47:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> << How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
> >interested in a board? >>
>
> If it is easy for a pinhead like me to install, I would buy one.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A finish kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Product survey for RV'3, 4, 6/6A, 7/7A, 8/8A, 9/9A |
I am developing a kit for the captioned aircraft that will resemble a WWII
belly drop tank. The kit will include all the components necessary for an
auxiliary fuel tank and an interchangeable cargo pod that is identical to the
fuel tank. It will also include the pylon parts including a fiberglas/Carbon
fiber fairing. The design is extremely simple and the tank/pod can be put on
or removed from the aircraft in less than a minute. The fuel capacity will be
between 15 to 18 gallons. the tank/pod will be very light and the attach
brackets and fairing are the only thing that is attached to the aircraft with
very little modification to the airframe. The design puts all the weight
directly below the CG. Also it looks real cool and give you options that you
currently don't have.
I am in the final design and model phase and would like to know what interest
level there is out there for this product. The target price for the kit that
would include the Aux Fuel tank, interchangeable cargo pod, the pylon fairing
and support parts and hardware is around $2,000.
Please let me know what your interest is.
Scott Morrow
smcm75(at)aol.com
phone :703-724-0874
fax: 703-7240984
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JGSinger(at)aol.com |
Put me down for either a kit version or a finished version. Either that or
include the book "Altitude Hold for Dummies" with just the board.
Thanks,
John Singer
RV-6A (gear weldments)
Denver, CO
www.jgsinger.com/rv
>>How about a little informal poll on how many of us are
>>interested in a board? Cost per board should drop rapidly if
>>50-100 of us are interested.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Product survey for RV'3, 4, 6/6A, 7/7A, 8/8A, 9/9A |
Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I am developing a kit for the captioned aircraft that will resemble a WWII
> belly drop tank. The kit will include all the components necessary for an
> auxiliary fuel tank and an interchangeable cargo pod that is identical to the
> fuel tank. It will also include the pylon parts including a fiberglas/Carbon
> fiber fairing. The design is extremely simple and the tank/pod can be put on
> or removed from the aircraft in less than a minute. The fuel capacity will be
> between 15 to 18 gallons. the tank/pod will be very light and the attach
> brackets and fairing are the only thing that is attached to the aircraft with
> very little modification to the airframe. The design puts all the weight
> directly below the CG. Also it looks real cool and give you options that you
> currently don't have.
>
> I am in the final design and model phase and would like to know what interest
> level there is out there for this product. The target price for the kit that
> would include the Aux Fuel tank, interchangeable cargo pod, the pylon fairing
> and support parts and hardware is around $2,000.
>
> Please let me know what your interest is.
>
> Scott Morrow
> smcm75(at)aol.com
> phone :703-724-0874
> fax: 703-7240984
>
Ok.......who wants to go first........ :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 that is already marginal in yaw stability)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto harness |
If this is a Slick magneto then you can call Unisyn, explain to them what
you have and they will give you a part number and tell you how to order it.
I went through Aviall for mine. Sorry I don't have Unisyn's phone number
handy but they are on the web.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A flying
RV-6A building
>From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'RV List'"
>Subject: RV-List: Magneto harness
>Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:37:22 -0700
>
>
>Does anyone know where I could get a new magneto harness for the left mag
>only? I have the Light speed on the right. Aircraft Spruce used to sell the
>1/2 sets but when I called to order it they said they were all
>discontinued.
>I hate to buy a whole set just to use 1/2 of it.
>Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, $%*&##@ canopy.
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Product survey for RV'3, 4, 6/6A, 7/7A, 8/8A, 9/9A |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am developing a kit for the captioned aircraft that will resemble a WWII
> > belly drop tank. The kit will include all the components necessary for an
> > auxiliary fuel tank and an interchangeable cargo pod that is identical to the
> > fuel tank. It will also include the pylon parts including a fiberglas/Carbon
> > fiber fairing. The design is extremely simple and the tank/pod can be put on
> > or removed from the aircraft in less than a minute. The fuel capacity will
be
> > between 15 to 18 gallons. the tank/pod will be very light and the attach
> > brackets and fairing are the only thing that is attached to the aircraft with
> > very little modification to the airframe. The design puts all the weight
> > directly below the CG. Also it looks real cool and give you options that you
> > currently don't have.
> >
> > I am in the final design and model phase and would like to know what interest
> > level there is out there for this product. The target price for the kit that
> > would include the Aux Fuel tank, interchangeable cargo pod, the pylon fairing
> > and support parts and hardware is around $2,000.
> >
> > Please let me know what your interest is.
> >
> > Scott Morrow
> > smcm75(at)aol.com
> > phone :703-724-0874
> > fax: 703-7240984
> >
>
> Ok.......who wants to go first........ :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 that is already marginal in yaw stability)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
OK, I'll go first.
The idea has always been attractive to me, but...
Someone made cargo pods for the wing tiedown points on RV's
several years ago. I only saw the prototype set, & never
heard of anyone actually buying any. I thought it was a good
idea, but couldn't justify the cost. The market may be
different today, but the new -8's already have more cargo
capacity than my -4 had.
A belly tank/cargo pod won't help with gross weight
limitations. Wing mounted pods can conceivably give some
added load carrying capacity, if you always make smooth
landings. Then there's the yaw stability issue that Sam
hinted at.
Have you considered making quick-change tiptanks/cargo pods
instead?
Charlie
RV-4 sold
RV-2+2 sold
Currently in Search Mode for an affordable -6 project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto harness |
It is Unison and you can e-mail Harry Fenton sales engineer at
harry(at)unisonindustries.com for help as he is truly one of the good guys.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magneto harness
If this is a Slick magneto then you can call Unisyn, explain to them what
you have and they will give you a part number and tell you how to order it.
I went through Aviall for mine. Sorry I don't have Unisyn's phone number
handy but they are on the web.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A flying
RV-6A building
>From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'RV List'"
>Subject: RV-List: Magneto harness
>Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:37:22 -0700
>
>
>Does anyone know where I could get a new magneto harness for the left mag
>only? I have the Light speed on the right. Aircraft Spruce used to sell the
>1/2 sets but when I called to order it they said they were all
>discontinued.
>I hate to buy a whole set just to use 1/2 of it.
>Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, $%*&##@ canopy.
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Chris,
I too would be interested. I flew a navaid equipped RV-9 from Seattle to CT
and although it was nice, I have always found it harder to hold an altitude
than to hold a heading when distracted. If I had an alt hold on my plane I
could easily fold charts or drink coffee. Also, once the plane is in trim,
slight heading corrections can be initiated with the feet. This normally
results in a slight descent, but with alt hold that would be taken care of.
I have no interest in an autopilot for my '4, but will be very interested in
your alt hold.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fantastic web site |
I just found :
http://epanelbuilder.com/builder.htm
Awesome. Just drag the avionics you want onto the panel. When you're done,
do a screen grab. ([alt][print screen] at the same time) Then paste itinto
any graphics software. I like MS photo editor as a free and simple editor.
Then crop out all the rest of the screen shot and voila. Very slick.
Don Mei
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Silver Solder for Primer lines |
Have searched the archives for tips on what kind of silver solder to use
on primer lines and there's suggestions from plain ole' solder to silver
solder that flows around 1200 degrees.
Anyone with some hours on their primer system that can recommend a
specific degree flow range and perhaps a source for the solder. Will
use a Mapp gas torch to do the soldering.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Silver Solder for Primer lines |
Regular solder is adequate for primer lines as they are low pressure. Silver
solder is required for high pressure fuel injection lines.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Silver Solder for Primer lines
Have searched the archives for tips on what kind of silver solder to use
on primer lines and there's suggestions from plain ole' solder to silver
solder that flows around 1200 degrees.
Anyone with some hours on their primer system that can recommend a
specific degree flow range and perhaps a source for the solder. Will
use a Mapp gas torch to do the soldering.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Glass and Mary Poteet <rlglass(at)alaska.net> |
For the RV-8, it's Dwg 49-Engine Mount
For the RV-6A,7A,9A, it's Dwg 46A-Engine/Nose Gear Mount
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I see reference to drawing SK-90A on builder's web sites while
> researching engine related stuff. Where do I find this drawing?!
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse/fwf
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
An "SK" should be a sketch found in the assembly manual not on the plans.
Dave
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> I see reference to drawing SK-90A on builder's web sites while
> researching engine related stuff. Where do I find this drawing?!
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse/fwf
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Mine leak, but not from the "eyeball", they leak around the edges of the
mounting flange and I fixed them temporarily with masking tape but I'll take
them off and use rtv as a gasket when they annoy me enough.
Dave
Vincent Welch wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
> provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do the
> aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
> with a good way to stop the air leak?
>
> Vince Welch
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACK - ELT $'s? |
In a message dated 4/30/2002 7:51:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Connywerner(at)wans.net writes:
> Question:
> What Company carries the best price for the ACK (E-01) ELT??
> You can also reply off list, if you wish.
Skystar (the Kitfox people) had a special offer on the ACK units when I was
in the market for mine. As I recall their price was about $20 less than any
other place I could find. You might want to call them to see if they are
going on sale again soon.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: [VAF Mailing List] Fly-in May 11] |
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net>
List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:40:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Fly-in May 11
"Frazier, Vincent A" wrote:
> Our EAA chapter is hosting an RV fly-in on May 11 at Skylane airport which
> is about 5 miles west of Evansville, IN airport EVV. More info can be
> found at:
> www.eaa21.org
>
> thanks,
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket
Any of the Tennesse Valley RV Group going? If you are I would love to catch a ride
with one of you, I
am in Hopkinsville, KY and right along the way :-) I would love for you guys to
check out my RV7A
project also.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
Buy Stock for $4
and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
All information posted through this medium should be polite, professional and respectful
of others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Silver Solder for Primer lines |
In a message dated 4/30/2002 6:47:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv6(at)cox.net
writes:
> Have searched the archives for tips on what kind of silver solder to use
> on primer lines and there's suggestions from plain ole' solder to silver
> solder that flows around 1200 degrees.
>
> Anyone with some hours on their primer system that can recommend a
> specific degree flow range and perhaps a source for the solder. Will
> use a Mapp gas torch to do the soldering.
First off, I have to disagree with the normally correct Cy Galley about soft
solder being acceptable for low pressure fuel lines. Eutectic Tin-Lead
solder used for electronics soldering and other low mass attachments lacks
the long term fatigue strength necessary for structural soldering and its
melting temperature IMO lacks sufficient safety margin at 183 deg C. The
fact that they are low pressure is a moot point.
For soldering primer (cone union type) fittings onto copper or stainless
steel tubing, I would recommend using a silver bearing brazing alloy
(something with about 50% Ag and the balance Cu, Zn and Cd in the 1135 deg F
range) available from your local hardware store (or McMaster-Carr) that is
sold for structural piping purposes. Also get a white flux (hot water
rinsable) that is recommended for silver brazing to nonferrous metals.
A propane torch is sufficient for the job.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net> |
| Subject: | VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich |
As you can tell, I'm just starting the -7 HS, and here's my first
construction question. Around step 5 of Van's manual sais to use HS-411BPP
(Prepunched hinge bracket) as a drill guide into HS-411APP (non-prepunched
hinge bracket) -- with the VA-146 bearing in the middle. I guess you're
supposed to clamp this whole bearing sandwich together, because clecos won't
work. Since the prepunched holes in the VA-146 and the HS-411BPP are
supposed to be perfect, aren't I making this imperfect by eye-balling the
hole alignment and then clamping and then drilling? Or maybe this is such a
minor detail that I should stop stalling and get on with it? Thanks in
advance for your input.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich |
Mark,
Center the holes using a drill bit. Clamp and drill the first hole and
cleco. Now, go to the opposite side and drill that one. Cleco again, now
all the holes should be lined up perfectly. Don't worry, it works like a
charm.
Now that tax season is over, I have time to update my website on the pre
punched 7 emps. I'll throw some things up there this week. The HS
construction pages are complete on the site.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich
>Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 01:52:04 -0700
>
>
>As you can tell, I'm just starting the -7 HS, and here's my first
>construction question. Around step 5 of Van's manual sais to use HS-411BPP
>(Prepunched hinge bracket) as a drill guide into HS-411APP (non-prepunched
>hinge bracket) -- with the VA-146 bearing in the middle. I guess you're
>supposed to clamp this whole bearing sandwich together, because clecos
>won't
>work. Since the prepunched holes in the VA-146 and the HS-411BPP are
>supposed to be perfect, aren't I making this imperfect by eye-balling the
>hole alignment and then clamping and then drilling? Or maybe this is such a
>minor detail that I should stop stalling and get on with it? Thanks in
>advance for your input.
>Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
05/01/2002 08:10:06 AM
Mark,
If I recall, I mounted the two brackets with bearing onto a 2x4 wooden
block. Take the first bracket (with the holes) and mount to the wood via
1/8" clecos. Then, slip the bearing in and sandwich the back bracket in
place. You can clamp / sandwich the assembly with a small clamp. Then,
you can mount the bracket with no holes to the wood in the same manner(with
1/8" clecos). Then, drill your first hole through the bearing and
brackets. Put a cleco in it. Do another .... and so on. You'll have to
remove the assembly from the wooden block to complete the task, but once
you have a least 2-3 clecoed holes, the unit is in alignment.
Hope this makes sense.
Ellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Thanks for the reply.
Vince
>From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re:
>Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 19:58:23 -0700
>
>
>Mine leak, but not from the "eyeball", they leak around the edges of the
>mounting flange and I fixed them temporarily with masking tape but I'll
>take
>them off and use rtv as a gasket when they annoy me enough.
>
>Dave
>
>Vincent Welch wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Hey guys, I've been told that the black plastic eyeball vents that Vans
> > provides leak air big time when closed, is this true? If it is true, do
>the
> > aluminum vents that Chief and others sell leak also? Has anyone come up
> > with a good way to stop the air leak?
> >
> > Vince Welch
> >
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Product survey for RV'3, 4, 6/6A, 7/7A, 8/8A, 9/9A |
External mounted streamline shapes have a drag coefficient of about 0.25.
Airframe drag coefficients are usually around 0.1.
The 230 series airfoil that Van uses has a drag coefficient of around 0.007
in cruise.
Just thought you might be interested in the drag penalties to "external
stores". (Maybe that's why the military tries to drop their external stores.
:-) )
Hint: I've noticed that the faster flying military aircraft conformal mount
external stores whenever possible.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich |
I don't have my manual handy, but I seem to recall the instructions told
me to cleco the HS-411's to the Spar with the bracket in between them.
That held it solidly enough for me that I could drill one hole, cleco,
drill another, cleco, etc. for the four holes furthest away from the
spar. For the last two, I took the assembly off the spar, still clecoed
together, and used the drill press.
The sequence was to lay the spar channels on the horizontal of the jig
(you *did* build a jig, right? 8-), lay the spar strips inside them,
drill through both into the jig, then cleco the whole thing to the jig.
Great for checking alignment, and it gives you somewhere to cleco that
damn bracket so you can drill it.
My first annoyance is that this bracket is the first item that Vans
tells you to rivet together, and they call out rivets that are too
short! They don't make a large enough shop head. Arrgh.
-Rob Prior
RV-7 Empennage (about to rivet the spar together)
Mark Antenbring wrote:
>
> As you can tell, I'm just starting the -7 HS, and here's my first
> construction question. Around step 5 of Van's manual sais to use HS-411BPP
> (Prepunched hinge bracket) as a drill guide into HS-411APP (non-prepunched
> hinge bracket) -- with the VA-146 bearing in the middle. I guess you're
> supposed to clamp this whole bearing sandwich together, because clecos won't
> work. Since the prepunched holes in the VA-146 and the HS-411BPP are
> supposed to be perfect, aren't I making this imperfect by eye-balling the
> hole alignment and then clamping and then drilling? Or maybe this is such a
> minor detail that I should stop stalling and get on with it? Thanks in
> advance for your input.
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
I have a gage that reads OAT (vs the thermometer type) and it has a
small
probe that mounts through the aluminum skin. Where are people mounting
these?
I have a Rocky Mountain Instrument uEncoder with an OAT probe in Suzie
Q, a dash 4. My probe is mounted right side forward fuselage under the
right cowl cheek, just forward of the instrument panel bulkhead about
eight inches (I can measure exactly if interested). Sort of hidden from
the sun, definitely out of the tarmac radiated heat and in the slip
stream. Seems to be accurate as my temperature is usually at or near
ATIS temps. I visited my local hobby store and got a length of
streamlined aluminum tubing used for model lift struts and slipped this
over the probe. Boy, I'll bet THAT speeds the airplane up!! Looks good,
anyway.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Traveling to Austin this weekend... |
Hi all... I will be in Austin from May 3rd to May 6th for some transision training
with Jim Stugart, and to go to the Georgetown Airshow, May 3-5, Georgetown,
TX, KGTU... So if you see me walking around or helpding out at the show, be
sure to say hey...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Drop Tank/Cargo Pod |
Scott Morrow wrote about a prototype belly tank/cargo pod kit.
I would be very interested, Scott! Sounds like a great solo cross
country device.
break, break...I'd also be interested in the altitude hold boards/kit if
anyone comes up with a good one.
My EFIS-One ships TODAY!!!! My daughter Sara thinks she's famous now.
See her pony tail (oh, and the paper EFIS-One) on the Blue Mountain
Avionics Website.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/
For those of you who may not know, the new EFIS-One software will have
3-D terrain on the moving map (cockpit view light the fighter HUDs and
birdseye view), also AOA on the HSI (just need two ports for the wings).
Satellite Wx updated every 6 minutes overlaid on the moving map soon to
follow. So sayeth Rick, builder of all things EFIS-One/Lite/Two/Sport.
Is this a great country, or WHAT!!!
Ken Brooks
RV-8 N1903P
Takin' my son to MSP Friday to drool on Lyle's airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Austin this weekend... |
Transition Training is the best idea for making your first flight a success.
Congratulations. Now find a flight advisor to plan out your testing.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Traveling to Austin this weekend...
Hi all... I will be in Austin from May 3rd to May 6th for some transision
training with Jim Stugart, and to go to the Georgetown Airshow, May 3-5,
Georgetown, TX, KGTU... So if you see me walking around or helpding out at
the show, be sure to say hey...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drop Tank/Cargo Pod |
In a message dated 5/1/02 2:00:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kdbrv8r(at)charter.net writes:
>
> I would be very interested, Scott! Sounds like a great solo cross
> country device.
>
>
Thanks for your response. I will keep you posted on availability.
Scott Morrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
I have one installed and no problems in about 300 hr. flying. Matter of fact
I am well pleased with mine. Sorry others are having trouble. Bought mine
from Vans Over 5 years ago. Will be putting one in the RV10 when it ever
comes out. I like it. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VA-146 -- HS-411PP Bearing sandwich |
>
>The sequence was to lay the spar channels on the horizontal of the jig
>(you *did* build a jig, right? 8-), lay the spar strips inside them,
>drill through both into the jig, then cleco the whole thing to the jig.
>
Jig................we don't need no stinking jig:-)
You are right about the rivets, they call for 4.5 which do make a much too
small shop head for my liking. I used 4.6, just be careful and don't bend
them over. I had plenty of rivets of all sizes left over after I finished
my emp.
On the new plans you cleco the 609s to the 603 then put the bearing between
the 411s and use the 609-603 assembly to get the correct fit, clamp it and
drill the aft four holes, clecoing as you go. Remove the assembly from the
609-603 and finishing drilling the forward holes. Don't fret too much about
this, it will go very smoothly.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
Last year at our IA seminar we had one of the senior tech folks from Parker
Hannifin, the folks who own Airborne, the company who makes dry air pumps.
He was adamant that back spinning one of their pumps would do nothing bad to
it, that if this were so the FAA would never have certified them for use as
many engines do back spin as they are shut off.
He went on to say that the number one cause of pump failures was plugged,
under serviced air filters. Also, a pump that is way worn out will have
little blade extention left (the part that extends into the rotor). If the
engine is back spun at this point then they may break, which may be why this
tale as perpetuated. If the pump is within its service life then a back spin
should have no effects.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Steve" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
| Subject: | drop tanks/cargo pod |
[Bartrim, Steve]
I feel your idea has some merit. I built my outboard
leading edge as tanks as well as the wingtip tanks, but I had considered a
belly drop tank. I considered these options before beginning construction of
my wings, so I was able to chose the least drag option of the leading edge
tanks. However if I had already completed my wings, this option would have
been very difficult and I would have most likely went with the drop tank
route.
The greatest drawback to this is the drag. If you are using
it for more range, due to the increased drag you are reducing it's
effectiveness. This is not to say that I don't think it is still a viable
product, as a matter of fact, if I need any more range I still may consider
this. Unfortunately for you I would most likely build my own, unless I felt
your product was a great value.
As a cargo pod, it would be best for the 4/8 as the 6/7/9
all have a fair sized cargo compartment and I believe enough CG range for
most loads. Now if you could build one that would hold skis, that would
probably be the best seller. A few builders have built ski racks into their
tail cones & I believe still are within their CG limits, however a pod on
the CG line would be better, so long as the front of it doesn't interfere
with the exhaust.
I do like your idea and while I may not be a future customer, I do
wish you the utmost success.
Good luck
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> I am developing a kit for the captioned aircraft that will resemble a WWII
>
> belly drop tank. The kit will include all the components necessary for an
> auxiliary fuel tank and an interchangeable cargo pod that is identical to
> the
> fuel tank. It will also include the pylon parts including a
> fiberglas/Carbon
> fiber fairing. The design is extremely simple and the tank/pod can be put
> on
> or removed from the aircraft in less than a minute. The fuel capacity will
> be
> between 15 to 18 gallons. the tank/pod will be very light and the attach
> brackets and fairing are the only thing that is attached to the aircraft
> with
> very little modification to the airframe. The design puts all the weight
> directly below the CG. Also it looks real cool and give you options that
> you
> currently don't have.
>
> I am in the final design and model phase and would like to know what
> interest
> level there is out there for this product. The target price for the kit
> that
> would include the Aux Fuel tank, interchangeable cargo pod, the pylon
> fairing
> and support parts and hardware is around $2,000.
>
> Please let me know what your interest is.
>
> Scott Morrow
> smcm75(at)aol.com
> phone :703-724-0874
> fax: 703-7240984
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drop tanks/cargo pod |
In a message dated 5/1/02 3:28:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca writes:
> I do like your idea and while I may not be a future customer, I do
> wish you the utmost success.
>
>
Thank you for your response. I'll keep you posted on the progress of the
product development.
Thanks,
Scott Morrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | drop tanks/cargo pod |
I would think that the FAA guys would view with alarm any type of in
flight droppable tank and any private aircraft. If it were ground
removable only, try and picture a forced landing in a rough field that
tore out your gear. Would you want a full tank of gas to be the next
thing that your airplane rests on?
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | drop tanks/cargo pod |
Another thought is the amount of oil film the cargo pod would
collect over time.
Ed Cole
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Gray [SMTP:bruce.gray(at)snet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 2:05 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: drop tanks/cargo pod
>
>
> I would think that the FAA guys would view with alarm any type of in
> flight droppable tank and any private aircraft. If it were ground
> removable only, try and picture a forced landing in a rough field that
> tore out your gear. Would you want a full tank of gas to be the next
> thing that your airplane rests on?
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
lm4(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me how to properly size AN bolt lenghts ?
> Nothing in the archives on this.
Thicknesses are sized in 1/16 inch increments
Lengths are sized in 1/8 inch increments starting from the inside of the head
to the tip of the shank, with the first number being full inches and the
second number being 1/8 inches
For example an:
AN3-23 is 3/16" thick and 2 3/8" long
AN4-11 is 4/16" thick (1/4") and 1 1/8" long
AN5-30 is 5/16" thick and 5 0/8" long
AN3-7 is 3/16" thick and simply 7/8" long
Hope this helps,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drop tanks/cargo pod |
The idea of a cargo pod sounds good but for other than round the world
flights I doubt if anyone would want to sit in an RV for over 4 hours anyway
without a pitstop....
After three hours I was always ready to land the -4 when it was flying...
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: drop tanks/cargo pod
>
>I would think that the FAA guys would view with alarm any type of in
>flight droppable tank and any private aircraft. If it were ground
>removable only, try and picture a forced landing in a rough field that
>tore out your gear. Would you want a full tank of gas to be the next
>thing that your airplane rests on?
>
>Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Andy,
I think I have it now. Your saying from the inside of the head to where
the thread begins. Is this correct ?
snip> Lengths are sized in 1/8 inch increments starting from the inside
of
the head to the tip of the shank,< snip, with the first number being full
inches
and the second number being 1/8 inches
> For example an:
> AN3-23 is 3/16" thick and 2 3/8" long
> AN4-11 is 4/16" thick (1/4") and 1 1/8" long
AN5-30 is 5/16" thick and 5 0/8" long
> AN3-7 is 3/16" thick and simply 7/8" long
> Hope this helps,
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dickk9 <Dickk9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Japanese lass' sexy pictures |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>Can anyone tell me how to properly size AN bolt lenghts?
Easiest way is to get a bolt gauge from ACS or Avery etc. Just slap the
bolt in (on) it and you are suddenly enlightened.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
> Andy,
> I think I have it now. Your saying from the inside of the head to where
> the thread begins. Is this correct ?
No. from the inside of the head to the tip of the bolt, including the
threaded area.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Way off-topic...but what the heck...ID of Russian instrument |
OK, I'm stumped...could use some help.
I was recently given an instrument taken from a HIP-8, and I don't know for sure
what it's for. The
Cyrillic writing (in white) on the face of the instrument is "CKOPOCTb". Some
stamped letters read
"x100KM/4" (the last character actually looks like an upside down lowercase 'h').More
stamped letters at
the top of the dial read "KYC-730/1100."
On the dial are two concentric circles that are formed by dash marks. The dash
mark at the top of the
outer circle doesn't have a "O", but goes five dashes...the sixth dash is marked
with a "1" then ten
more dashes to a "2", ten dashes to a "3", and so on till the number "7" (at about
10:30 o'clock on the
dial), then five more dashes...and it stops. There's a gap from about 11:00 to
12:00 in that circle.
The needle that goes with the outer circle is about 1/10" thick and points to the
12:00 position.
The inner circle starts with the number "4" at around the 7:00 o'clock position,
goes with the same
pattern as the outer circle (ten dash marks and a number), but this circle goes
up to "11". There's a
gap in the dial between just before the 6:00 and 7:00. The needle that goes with
this dial is less than
half as thick as the other needle, and points to the 7:00 position.
On the back of the instrument case are two fittings for attaching air lines (pitot-static?).
The top one
is marked with a Cyrillic-looking "A" and the bottom one a "C".
At first I thought of an altimeter, but there's no window or knob to set the barometric
pressure. The
next (obvious) choice is an altimeter, but the ranges of the numbers on each dial
confuse me. My boss
(retired Marine Harrier pilot) thought of a vertical speed indicator, but again,
the ranges confuse us.
Any thoughts? To make this on-topic, I guess I could say that I'm gonna install
this critter on the
panel of my RV-6 and use it for something. Ah, wonder that the inspector would
say...
Semper Fi
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Kunkel" <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Way off-topic...but what the heck...ID of Russian instrument |
They didn't know what it was either - that's why they sold it to you :).
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Way off-topic...but what the heck...ID of Russian
instrument
>
> OK, I'm stumped...could use some help.
>
> I was recently given an instrument taken from a HIP-8, and I don't know
for sure what it's for. The
> Cyrillic writing (in white) on the face of the instrument is "CKOPOCTb".
Some stamped letters read
> "x100KM/4" (the last character actually looks like an upside down
lowercase 'h').More stamped letters at
> the top of the dial read "KYC-730/1100."
>
> On the dial are two concentric circles that are formed by dash marks. The
dash mark at the top of the
> outer circle doesn't have a "O", but goes five dashes...the sixth dash is
marked with a "1" then ten
> more dashes to a "2", ten dashes to a "3", and so on till the number "7"
(at about 10:30 o'clock on the
> dial), then five more dashes...and it stops. There's a gap from about
11:00 to 12:00 in that circle.
> The needle that goes with the outer circle is about 1/10" thick and points
to the 12:00 position.
>
> The inner circle starts with the number "4" at around the 7:00 o'clock
position, goes with the same
> pattern as the outer circle (ten dash marks and a number), but this circle
goes up to "11". There's a
> gap in the dial between just before the 6:00 and 7:00. The needle that
goes with this dial is less than
> half as thick as the other needle, and points to the 7:00 position.
>
> On the back of the instrument case are two fittings for attaching air
lines (pitot-static?). The top one
> is marked with a Cyrillic-looking "A" and the bottom one a "C".
>
> At first I thought of an altimeter, but there's no window or knob to set
the barometric pressure. The
> next (obvious) choice is an altimeter, but the ranges of the numbers on
each dial confuse me. My boss
> (retired Marine Harrier pilot) thought of a vertical speed indicator, but
again, the ranges confuse us.
>
> Any thoughts? To make this on-topic, I guess I could say that I'm gonna
install this critter on the
> panel of my RV-6 and use it for something. Ah, wonder that the inspector
would say...
>
> Semper Fi
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Planning Software Review |
I am planning a trip to Oshkosh from Oregon and am checking out all the
flight planning software I can find. I just got something that isn't
advertised as such but is a great tool. It is called Topo USA Version 4.0
by DeLorme. http://www.delorme.com/topousa/
I got it from Page Computer for $86
http://www.pagecomputers.com/cgi-bin/page/M0214480.html
Topo USA includes 100 foot contour topographic maps for the whole US
including Alaska and Hawaii. The software allows you to designate to and
from points and will calculate the shortest distance. You can also specify
intermediate points. Then comes the fun part. You can look at your route
in 3D. I am looking at routes from Boise to the east. I can actually "see"
the routes to fly through valleys etc. I can specify waypoints along the
way that are defined by latitude and longitude that I will be able to use in
programing my GPS for the flight. It also has the capability of hooking up
to a GPS and to Pocket PC's for moving map display.
I have played with this for about 5 hours and find it to be easy to use and
very helpful for route planning.
Ross Mickey
RV6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
Folks,
A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and has
to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used where
you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your pattern,
then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating squares?
Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his' method.
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
killing me
please archive this for the next guy/gal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Way off-topic...but what the heck...ID of Russian instrument |
Sounds like an airspeed indicator to me, the numbers are x100 km/h,
which is the common unit of speed in the Soviet Union (they use metric).
Altimeters in most Russian aircraft are in Metres, too... 8-P
So you have an airspeed indicator around the outside of the dial that
reads from about 50 km/h up to 750 km/h. Or about 30 mph to about 500
mph statute. A little larger range than you'll need for your RV, i'm
guessing, even if you're building a Rocket... 8-)
Not sure what the inner dial reads, though... Could there be decimal
points there anywhere, so it reads Mach 0.4 to 1.1?
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
John Lawson wrote:
>
> OK, I'm stumped...could use some help.
>
> I was recently given an instrument taken from a HIP-8, and I don't know for sure
what it's for. The
> Cyrillic writing (in white) on the face of the instrument is "CKOPOCTb". Some
stamped letters read
> "x100KM/4" (the last character actually looks like an upside down lowercase 'h').More
stamped letters at
> the top of the dial read "KYC-730/1100."
>
> On the dial are two concentric circles that are formed by dash marks. The dash
mark at the top of the
> outer circle doesn't have a "O", but goes five dashes...the sixth dash is marked
with a "1" then ten
> more dashes to a "2", ten dashes to a "3", and so on till the number "7" (at
about 10:30 o'clock on the
> dial), then five more dashes...and it stops. There's a gap from about 11:00
to 12:00 in that circle.
> The needle that goes with the outer circle is about 1/10" thick and points to
the 12:00 position.
>
> The inner circle starts with the number "4" at around the 7:00 o'clock position,
goes with the same
> pattern as the outer circle (ten dash marks and a number), but this circle goes
up to "11". There's a
> gap in the dial between just before the 6:00 and 7:00. The needle that goes
with this dial is less than
> half as thick as the other needle, and points to the 7:00 position.
>
> On the back of the instrument case are two fittings for attaching air lines (pitot-static?).
The top one
> is marked with a Cyrillic-looking "A" and the bottom one a "C".
>
> At first I thought of an altimeter, but there's no window or knob to set the
barometric pressure. The
> next (obvious) choice is an altimeter, but the ranges of the numbers on each
dial confuse me. My boss
> (retired Marine Harrier pilot) thought of a vertical speed indicator, but again,
the ranges confuse us.
>
> Any thoughts? To make this on-topic, I guess I could say that I'm gonna install
this critter on the
> panel of my RV-6 and use it for something. Ah, wonder that the inspector would
say...
>
> Semper Fi
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
In a message dated 5/1/02 8:13:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
<< Folks,
A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and has
to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used where
you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your pattern,
then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating
squares?
Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his' method.
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
killing me
please archive this for the next guy/gal >>
The easiest way to do it is to have a viny shop make a vinyl checkerboard for
the airplane. If you've gotta have PAINTED checkerboard, you can cheat and
use the 1/8" (or finer) fine line tape to make a grid, mask 1/2 the squares,
then paint the entire surface. Remove all the masking and you'll have a
checkerboard with 1/8" (or whatever fine line tape you used) gaps between the
corners of the checkerboard's blocks. If you don't like that solution, the
next step is to do what your painter is already doing...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
If you use the find tape method, then fill in the gap with some black pin
stripping tape which will set off the two contrasting paint squares.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Checkerboards
In a message dated 5/1/02 8:13:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
<< Folks,
A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and
has
to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used
where
you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your
pattern,
then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating
squares?
Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his'
method.
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
killing me
please archive this for the next guy/gal >>
The easiest way to do it is to have a viny shop make a vinyl checkerboard
for
the airplane. If you've gotta have PAINTED checkerboard, you can cheat and
use the 1/8" (or finer) fine line tape to make a grid, mask 1/2 the squares,
then paint the entire surface. Remove all the masking and you'll have a
checkerboard with 1/8" (or whatever fine line tape you used) gaps between
the
corners of the checkerboard's blocks. If you don't like that solution, the
next step is to do what your painter is already doing...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If you use the fine tape method, then fill in the gap with some black pin
stripping tape which will set off the two contrasting paint squares.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Checkerboards
In a message dated 5/1/02 8:13:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
<< Folks,
A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and
has
to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used
where
you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your
pattern,
then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating
squares?
Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his'
method.
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
killing me
please archive this for the next guy/gal >>
The easiest way to do it is to have a viny shop make a vinyl checkerboard
for
the airplane. If you've gotta have PAINTED checkerboard, you can cheat and
use the 1/8" (or finer) fine line tape to make a grid, mask 1/2 the squares,
then paint the entire surface. Remove all the masking and you'll have a
checkerboard with 1/8" (or whatever fine line tape you used) gaps between
the
corners of the checkerboard's blocks. If you don't like that solution, the
next step is to do what your painter is already doing...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
I'm not a painter but you could use regular shelf contact paper to cut it
out of. Just be carful when you remove the backing so you don't strech the
pattern.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Checkerboards
>
> Folks,
> A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
> painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
> involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and
has
> to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
> people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used
where
> you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your
pattern,
> then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating
squares?
> Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his'
method.
> Thanks in advance.
> Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
> killing me
> please archive this for the next guy/gal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, last week I posted a complaint to the List about not being able to
get a response from Andair by e-mail. One lister suggested contacting a
Cynthia Philips directly via e-mail at Andair and that did the
trick...got a very quick response with an apology for not responding to
my previous e-mails. They shipped out the custom configured gascolator I
needed last Friday and it was at my doorstep by 9 am Monday morning. The
price was $150 (more than Vans charges at $125) but it's exactly what I
needed and they gave me the Express shipping for about 1/3 the actual
cost. So I'm now a happy and satisfied customer and just wanted to
report it back to the List in all fairness to Andair's efforts of
goodwill....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finishing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Counterbalance Weight (was clearance) |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I asked Vans this question and Gus said the new weights save 1.25 lbs per
side, so if my math is right that's 2.5 lbs out of the tail. I'd like to
retrofit it to my tail but I just finished attaching the fiberglass tips,
and besides it also requires rebuilding the counterbalance arms since
they are a different P/N....so I'll probly just live with that extra 2.5
lbs for ever and ever. Makes me sick, just sick...... : )
Maybe Vans could do something really lousy for a change, like design a
really pathetic 4 place airplane that nobody wants, so I could feel good
about my airplane and not wish I had waited for something better always
just around the corner. Sigh.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit stuff....mostly fiberglass....
_______
Subject: RE: RV-List: Counterbalance clearance.
From: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com>
04/30/2002 10:13:16 AM
I wonder how much weight Vans saved by the newly designed counter
weights?
Too much rework for me to consider at this point (emp. done).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
Well, actually I believe Andy is mostly correct, but you have to add 1/32 of
an inch to the measurement. AN3-23 is 2 and 3/8 plus 1/32 which totals 2
and 13/32" measured from under the head to the end of the threads. I've
also learned that some manufactures may just quote the 'grip' length, which
is really the important length anyway.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <lm4(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Sizes
>
> Andy,
> I think I have it now. Your saying from the inside of the head to where
> the thread begins. Is this correct ?
> snip> Lengths are sized in 1/8 inch increments starting from the inside
> of
> the head to the tip of the shank,< snip, with the first number being full
> inches
> and the second number being 1/8 inches
> > For example an:
> > AN3-23 is 3/16" thick and 2 3/8" long
> > AN4-11 is 4/16" thick (1/4") and 1 1/8" long
> AN5-30 is 5/16" thick and 5 0/8" long
> > AN3-7 is 3/16" thick and simply 7/8" long
> > Hope this helps,
> > Andy
> > Builder's Bookstore
> > http://buildersbooks.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
In a message dated 5/1/2002 10:49:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
> Well this is a real drag! I just looked up on my invoice to see what my ELT
> was and it is an AK 450. I bought if from Chief, not Van's. I haven't even
> installed it yet. >>
>
> Yeah, me too. Is there anyone out there who has used the AK 450 without
> any
> problems?
>
I have the AK 450 and it is functioning correctly in my 6A. Although I am
not flying yet, I am ready for DAR inspection in the next week so my ELT is
up and operating. I G tested it prior to installation and also tested it in
all modes after install including operation and testing with remote switches.
Sounds like this company's quality control and service is lacking but at
least some of the units work properly. (knock on wood)
Dale Wotring
RV6-A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Counterbalance Weight (was clearance) |
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I asked Vans this question and Gus said the new weights save 1.25 lbs per
> side, so if my math is right that's 2.5 lbs out of the tail. I'd like to
> retrofit it to my tail but I just finished attaching the fiberglass tips,
> and besides it also requires rebuilding the counterbalance arms since
> they are a different P/N....so I'll probly just live with that extra 2.5
> lbs for ever and ever. Makes me sick, just sick...... : )
>
I can guarantee you that once you make that first flight you well never
ever give that whopping 2.5 lbs another thought. :)
Jerry
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fluxgate compass |
Hi everybody,
This sounds very interesting:
http://www.nisongermarine.com/3-gcid2.html
A remote mounted sensor, 2 1/16" round face, electrical compass. $182.
(custom colored rim +$10).
Hey Randall, didn't you want one of these ?
Amit.
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com> |
Mark, How about listing the e-mail address you used to contact Cynthia at
Andair
Jim Streit
90073 wings
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Guys, last week I posted a complaint to the List about not being able to
> get a response from Andair by e-mail. One lister suggested contacting a
> Cynthia Philips directly via e-mail at Andair and that did the
> trick...got a very quick response with an apology for not responding to
> my previous e-mails. They shipped out the custom configured gascolator I
> needed last Friday and it was at my doorstep by 9 am Monday morning. The
> price was $150 (more than Vans charges at $125) but it's exactly what I
> needed and they gave me the Express shipping for about 1/3 the actual
> cost. So I'm now a happy and satisfied customer and just wanted to
> report it back to the List in all fairness to Andair's efforts of
> goodwill....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finishing....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator Problem |
Hi,
I have a carb equipped RV-6 with a firewall mounted Andair gascolator.
During preflight, if I try to take a fuel sample from the gascolator, all I
get is a VERY slow drip. I don't have any fuel system anomolies. Fuel
pressure & flow all check out. Even though the plane is a taildragger and
sits at an angle, I figured fuel would still tend to remain in the
gascolator following shutdown. Any thoughts or suggestions?
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT location |
When you say a small tab riveted on for that purpose do you mean it is inside
the root area and not protruding down through the bottom skin into the slip
stream?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Problem |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Glenn,
I am unable to tell from your message if you are running the boost pump
during fuel sampling. It is necessary to do that on RV's to get any
appreciable fuel out of the gascolator.
>>
>Hi,
>
>I have a carb equipped RV-6 with a firewall mounted Andair gascolator.
>During preflight, if I try to take a fuel sample from the gascolator, all I
>get is a VERY slow drip. I don't have any fuel system anomolies. Fuel
>pressure & flow all check out. Even though the plane is a taildragger and
>sits at an angle, I figured fuel would still tend to remain in the
>gascolator following shutdown. Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT reset problem |
I think another lister said it best that you always hear from a larger
percentage of the people that have a problem (understandably). I've had an
AmeriKing 450 in my 6A from day one, 5.5years ago. I test it every few
months and it seems to work fine. When I bought it the mounting bracket was
manufactured incorrectly and wouldn't hold the unit. I called and was
shipped a new bracket immediately. This was 6 years ago, and it sounds like
the service has slipped since then, but I've been very happy with mine.
Considering the customer service problems that many others have had, I'm not
sure I'd buy one today. There is nothing that makes me angrier than
terrible customer service.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I have the AK 450 and it is functioning correctly in my 6A. Although I am
> not flying yet, I am ready for DAR inspection in the next week so my ELT
is
> up and operating. I G tested it prior to installation and also tested it
in
> all modes after install including operation and testing with remote
switches.
>
> Sounds like this company's quality control and service is lacking but at
> least some of the units work properly. (knock on wood)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Problem |
Even in a 6A you can't get more than a few drops out of the gascolator.
There is an easy fix though, just flip on the boost pump (assuming you have
an electric pump ahead of the gascolator) and you can pull plenty of fuel
out of there.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I have a carb equipped RV-6 with a firewall mounted Andair gascolator.
> During preflight, if I try to take a fuel sample from the gascolator, all
I
> get is a VERY slow drip. I don't have any fuel system anomolies. Fuel
> pressure & flow all check out. Even though the plane is a taildragger
and
> sits at an angle, I figured fuel would still tend to remain in the
> gascolator following shutdown. Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
In a message dated 5/1/2002 5:13:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
> Folks,
> A quick question on the methods used for painting checkerboards. My
> painter is using 1/4" fine line tape to mask off my checkerboards. This
> involves LOTS of tape on/off as the 1/4" 'overlaps ever other square and
> has
> to be removed and replaced on the 'other side' of the line (you checker
> people know what I mean). Isn't there a contact paper that can be used
> where
> you lay the contact paper over the surface to be painted, draw your
> pattern,
> then simply cut with a razor on the lines and remove the alternating
> squares?
> Seems like he's wasting a lot of time and fine line tape using 'his'
> method.
> Thanks in advance.
> Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 10 weeks with this paint guy - he's
> killing me
> please archive this for the next guy/gal
>
>
>
I found it best to have your local graphics shop take the thinnest vinyl they
can get and by using their computerized plotter / cutter make both vertical
and horizontal cuts at the same size then remove every other square, You now
have a perfect checkerboard. Using some application tape you can now apply to
the already painted surface you want checkerboarded. They also have a spray
that helps work out all bubbles,,,use that (this is important). Once applied
allow some time in the sun to remove all bubbles then clear coat that area.
It will look good!
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
N39TB
150hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length |
I have the same engine with the same issue but also had a problem with the
tube touching the engine mount.
Used basically the same solution but used a slightly flexable piece of hose
to join the pieces together.
I trimmed the the stick to fit the new tube length then during the first oil
fill I marked the stick with the levels. This way I know the level is
correct on the stick even with the tail on the ground and the engine at a
different angle.
Hope this helps.
Pat P
RV-4
N154PK 56hrs
>From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:40:49 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Here's what I did: measure the distance from your case to the top of you>r cowl.
Whack off the appropriate amount of the dipstick tube in the mid>dle somewhere.
Take a piece of scrap aileron push tube and join the two
>halves together with some proseal and pop rivets. Pull the roll pin off
>the top of your dipstick and remove the same amount off the top of the di>pstick
as you did the tube. Other guys have used a piece of PVC to join
>the two tube halves together. Whatever works, it's not a big deal. Mine>'s worked
fine for 12 years now.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4 Flying
>RV-6 Firewall Forward
>Vero Beach, FL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: N8292W(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>
>
>I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and the oil dipstick hits my cowling. Can some>one
tell me the part number or length from the case to the top of the dip>stick tube
(not including the dipstick) on their RV-4?
>
>Thanks for any help you can provide!
>-Mike Kraus
>RV-4 wiring
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Larry, Buy a bolt gauge!!!! All you do is lay the bolt on it and it tells you
what size you have-there is no need to measure. Any aircraft tool supplier
has them for under
$10. You will not regret it. Bob in Arkansas finishing wings (6).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
Rick, I believe Kyle Boatright used some type of pre-painted decal. I lost
his addy, but I am sure that someone on list has it. Kyle sometimes visits
the list. You might search archives using his name. Please let me know off
list how all this turns out, I am considering the same scheme-although it
will be a while. Good Luck, Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Fluxgate compass |
Hello, Nisonger technical staff.
There are a few thousand aircraft homebuilders building neat airplanes and
some might be interested in your fluxgate compass.
When I see "fluxgate" I think of military 110vac/400 cycle remote compass
technology (from Korean War 1950's era). Could you provide a bit of
technical info on your fluxgate system? If you will include the RV-list
addr (in the Cc line) you will reach a wide audience and cut down on
individual requests for the same info - save you some time.
I assume vehcile heading is always at the top, correct?
Some info on the remote sensor would be most helpful - size, mounting,
current draw, etc.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fluxgate compass
>
> Hi everybody,
> This sounds very interesting:
>
> http://www.nisongermarine.com/3-gcid2.html
>
> A remote mounted sensor, 2 1/16" round face, electrical compass. $182.
> (custom colored rim +$10).
>
> Hey Randall, didn't you want one of these ?
>
> Amit.
>
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I have always used my 6" scale as my bolt gauge. Measure the bolts length from
under the head and you have the bolts length in the AN octal measurment system.
2-3/8" is an ANx-23 bolt. Never fails and the scale is always in my pocket. I
would loose the bolt gauge. The scale is only a couple of bucks and is a lot
more usefull too.
Gary
Quoting Bobpaulo(at)aol.com:
>
> Larry, Buy a bolt gauge!!!! All you do is lay the bolt on it and it
> tells you
> what size you have-there is no need to measure. Any aircraft tool
> supplier
> has them for under
> $10. You will not regret it. Bob in Arkansas finishing wings (6).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length |
Had the same problem with my -4. Lycoming does make a short dipstick and
tube for the 0-320, can't find the part no. but a couple of years ago I
bought one from the local lycoming distrib. at the Long Beach, Ca. airport,
think I paid $60.00
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Perry [mailto:pperryrv(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
I have the same engine with the same issue but also had a problem with the
tube touching the engine mount.
Used basically the same solution but used a slightly flexable piece of hose
to join the pieces together.
I trimmed the the stick to fit the new tube length then during the first oil
fill I marked the stick with the levels. This way I know the level is
correct on the stick even with the tail on the ground and the engine at a
different angle.
Hope this helps.
Pat P
RV-4
N154PK 56hrs
>From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:40:49 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Here's what I did: measure the distance from your case to the top of you>r cowl.
Whack off the appropriate amount of the dipstick tube in the mid>dle somewhere.
Take a piece of scrap aileron push tube and join the two
>halves together with some proseal and pop rivets. Pull the roll pin off
>the top of your dipstick and remove the same amount off the top of the di>pstick
as you did the tube. Other guys have used a piece of PVC to join
>the two tube halves together. Whatever works, it's not a big deal. Mine>'s worked
fine for 12 years now.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4 Flying
>RV-6 Firewall Forward
>Vero Beach, FL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: N8292W(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>
>
>I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and the oil dipstick hits my cowling. Can some>one
tell me the part number or length from the case to the top of the dip>stick tube
(not including the dipstick) on their RV-4?
>
>Thanks for any help you can provide!
>-Mike Kraus
>RV-4 wiring
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length |
Check the archives, I posted all the part numbers for dipsticks and dipstick
housings for these engines back in Jan or Feb.
-----Original Message-----
From: Moore, Warren [mailto:Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
Had the same problem with my -4. Lycoming does make a short dipstick and
tube for the 0-320, can't find the part no. but a couple of years ago I
bought one from the local lycoming distrib. at the Long Beach, Ca. airport,
think I paid $60.00
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Perry [mailto:pperryrv(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
I have the same engine with the same issue but also had a problem with the
tube touching the engine mount.
Used basically the same solution but used a slightly flexable piece of hose
to join the pieces together.
I trimmed the the stick to fit the new tube length then during the first oil
fill I marked the stick with the levels. This way I know the level is
correct on the stick even with the tail on the ground and the engine at a
different angle.
Hope this helps.
Pat P
RV-4
N154PK 56hrs
>From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:40:49 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Here's what I did: measure the distance from your case to the top of you>r cowl.
Whack off the appropriate amount of the dipstick tube in the mid>dle somewhere.
Take a piece of scrap aileron push tube and join the two
>halves together with some proseal and pop rivets. Pull the roll pin off
>the top of your dipstick and remove the same amount off the top of the di>pstick
as you did the tube. Other guys have used a piece of PVC to join
>the two tube halves together. Whatever works, it's not a big deal. Mine>'s worked
fine for 12 years now.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4 Flying
>RV-6 Firewall Forward
>Vero Beach, FL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: N8292W(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Dipstick Tube Length
>
>
>I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and the oil dipstick hits my cowling. Can some>one
tell me the part number or length from the case to the top of the dip>stick tube
(not including the dipstick) on their RV-4?
>
>Thanks for any help you can provide!
>-Mike Kraus
>RV-4 wiring
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | I wonder if she can buck rivets?? |
Re:
From: Dickk9 <Dickk9(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Japanese lass' sexy pictures
Dick you have a virus, well actually your computer does. If thats not the
case, I bet she can fit her little fingers waaaaaay down into the control
surfaces to buck rivets. Just a thought
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words |
Don,
Have you figuered out which way you ferry trip will take you? If you see
your way through the cincinnati area I'd like to meet you for dinner. If you
need that place to ( crash ) I can help that way as well.
Tom Scherder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: need a place to crash, oops bad choice of words
>
> I will be ferrying an Aeronica Champ from Connecticut to East Texas (70
> miles west of Shrieveport LA. and am looking for places to stop. I
haven't
> laid out my route and am looking for thoughts.
>
> The buyer will be reimburseing me for hotel expenses, so I don't actually
> need to sleep over, just looking for maybe someone to grab some dinner
with.
>
April 25, 2002 - May 02, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mt