RV-Archive.digest.vol-mu
May 02, 2002 - May 12, 2002
> Please send replies directly to don_mei(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 - N92CT
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching back baffle to wing tank |
Finally getting close to doing that...
...any special hints/suggestions/"gotchas' to watch out for?
I checked the archives, found what Scott McD said...other insights solicited/appreciated...
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (still acting fuelish)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I'm searching for F697 channel used on the RV-7 tip up canopy. Drawing 24A
shows it.
It is not on my packing list and is nowhere to be found. Anybody know or
have the same
problem?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching back baffle to wing tank |
Fairly easy thing to do. It would be very helpful to have at least one other
person, two would be better, to pull skin apart as you slide baffle into
position.
Bob in Ark, finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK - ELT $'s? |
I am not familiar with this particular ELT, but it sounds like the com radio
transmit energy is getting into the ELT latch circuit. This is the circuit
that normally keeps the ELT on after an initial on signal from the
acceleration switch.
If this is the case, simply moving the ELT antenna closer to and farther
away from the com antenna will prove that this is the source of the problem.
Relocating the com or ELT antenna would solve it.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
| I've been trying to figure out how to stop my ACK from going off when I
| transmit from my com radio. It happens about 1 time every 10 transmits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
In a message dated 5/2/02 11:57:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
> Checkerboards,
Thanks for all the replies on the checkerboard question. Some real
good feedback included (but not limited to):
- pre painted decals
- shelf paper - lay out and cut out the squares (elongated and no 2 the same
in my case)
- the fine line tape method that my painter is using (I'm becoming better at
this as the hours drift by)
- graphics
If I had it to do again, I think I'd go with the graphics - they look
great and IMO are basically flawless - too much room for error and
imperfections in the 'paint 'em' method (at least at my
location)............although mine will be painted. The constant complaining
of the painter doesn't help this joyous experience either :
)
Thanks to all that responded and by all means - please archive.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - 'Burning Daylight' on the paint -
let's get this baby in the air - all these recent first flight stories have
me pretty 'antsy'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: It's here!!! |
In a message dated 5/2/2002 12:20:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rickjory(at)msn.com writes:
> Terminals for your wiring . . . after you figure out what
> you think you need (number, size), add 30 or so to each size.
You can get these for free by just stopping by my hangar. I have reels and
reels of mil-spec ring lugs in various sizes, but you have to come by. I
will not ship them.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Steam Gauges Accuracy? |
Dear valued Listers,
Has anyone ever tested (or compared) the actual "accuracy" of Van's
Steam-Gauges. I just would like to find out how close they are in being
right on the numbers, compared to the much more expensive monitoring systems
of other kinds.
I heard that there were some problems with Van's gauge installations, which
were already previously discussed on this list (i.e. full gauge deflections
when the PTT was pushed, etc.etc.).
But that is not really my question: I just wanted to know about the
accuracy of the (presumably correct working) gauges! Any input would be
greatly appreciated.
Thats all!
Thanks,
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Philip Condon contributed some material to the Western Canada Wing web site a
couple of years ago, and I need to ask him some questions about it. Philip, if
you're on the list please contact me. If anyone here knows his email address
or other contact information, I would very much appreciate having it.
Thanks, and sorry for the spam.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: Screws vs Fastons |
| From: | "nknobil(at)gwi.net" <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
Does anyone have an address or other way to contact Russell Duffy? I'd really
like to talk to him about how he mounted his Ellison TBI with Van's FAB.
The fact that the TBI is about two inches "shorter" than a Marvel carb makes for
a problem with aligning the FAB to the cowl, and I'd like to know how he did
it. Any other folks out there who've come up against this issue?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV-8 N80549 (res)
O-360-A1A, Whirlwind 200C, Dual LSE CDIs, Ellison TBI
Looking for:
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)- FOR SALE
RV-3, Rotary engine project- Spar rework
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching back baffle to wing tank |
I don't know what Scott McDaniel said but make sure you mask off anything
you don't want proseal on. I spend more time with MEK cleaning up the mess
I made when installing the baffle on the first tank than I did installing
the baffle. Especially be sure to mask off all the areas when the tank will
be attaching the wing spar.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Finally getting close to doing that...
>
> ...any special hints/suggestions/"gotchas' to watch out for?
>
> I checked the archives, found what Scott McD said...other insights
solicited/appreciated...
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (still acting fuelish)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Russell Duffy - Ellison TBI & FAB |
| From: | "nknobil(at)gwi.net" <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
Does anyone have an address or other way to contact Russell Duffy? I'd really
like to talk to him about how he mounted his Ellison TBI with Van's FAB.
The fact that the TBI is about two inches "shorter" than a Marvel carb makes for
a problem with aligning the FAB to the cowl, and I'd like to know how he did
it. Any other folks out there who've come up against this issue?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV-8 N80549 (res)
O-360-A1A, Whirlwind 200C, Dual LSE CDIs, Ellison TBI
Looking for:
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)- FOR SALE
RV-3, Rotary engine project- Spar rework
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
| Subject: | Unsolicited Plug - Alberta Aircraft Overhaul |
Folks - it seems like this is a good place to share GOOD vendor stories as
well as bad ones, so I thought I would add my own, with the usual proviso
that I have no vested interest in these guys other than being a satisfied
customer;
Yesterday, I was in need of some AN426 AD3-4.5 rivets (for the wing walk).
I assumed that I would have to either order these from Toronto, or
California. Called up Alberta Aircraft Overhaul, talked to Trevor in parts,
and not only did he have the oddball rivets in stock, he was more than happy
to sell me the 4 oz. I needed. More importantly, I had them in my hands not
12 hours from the moment I figured I needed them, from a local supplier, so
no nonsense with transborder shipping and whopping courier bills. I think
he charged me $2.40 an ounce, or thereabouts.
For those of you based in and around the Calgary area, I can highly
recommend these guys - they are very homebuilder friendly, and have what
appears to be a great inventory of certified AN hardware. Although I didn't
specifically ask them (no need to), I bet they would be happy to throw
orders in Canada Post for those outside the immediate vicinity. Also, I
have gotten them to do priming for me in the past, and they sealed my left
tank, and all of their work was excellent. Can't recommend them highly
enough.
They can be reached at (403) 250-1177, and they are located at CYYC. Use
'em or lose 'em, I say!
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching back baffle to wing tank |
Big 10-4 to Mike Nellis' advice. Also, I recommend you drive the rivets
rather than squeeze them. The "wet" rivets (from proseal) slipped around in
my squeezer so much that I clinched several of them. I use a pneumatic
squeezer and have much more control than a hand one, and that still
happened. IMHO.
Jim Bower
RV-6A
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Second annual RV fly-in May 11 |
Guys,
Just a reminder that there will be an RV Fly-in on May 11 at Skylane airport
(3EV) which is located about 5 mile west of Evansville, Indiana's main
airport (EVV).
http://www.eaa21.org/rvflyin.htm
Skylane is about 2400' with a north/south grass runway. We'll eat at noon
and, IIRC, pilots eat free.
I'm sure that there will be activities planned, poker run, etc. but I don't
have the details yet.
We had a good turn out last year considering the poor weather. Food was
great. This year should be even better since the new clubhouse is finished
and ready for visitors.
You can contact me if you have questions or need better directions. Hope to
see you there!
Vince Frazier
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
Buy Stock for $4
and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/orkH0C/n97DAA/Ey.GAA/jrDrlB/TM
________________________________________________________________________________
> I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
> found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
> and see what I can find...
>
> -Bill
Bill, please be sure and let us know if you find the right cap.
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair contact |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Jim, it was posted on the List a couple weeks ago (that's where I got it from).
Here it is again though: andair(at)andair.co.uk
Just address the subject line to the attention of Cynthia Phillips. The other
two addresses I have for andair are:
sales(at)andair.co.uk
owen(at)andair.co.uk
Then latter is for Owen Phillips. Once I got their attention by addressing Cynthia,
I dealt with Owen to work out the details of what I needed...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finishing...
From: Jim Streit <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Andair
Mark, How about listing the e-mail address you used to contact Cynthia at
Andair
Jim Streit
90073 wings
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Guys, last week I posted a complaint to the List about not being able to
> get a response from Andair by e-mail. One lister suggested contacting a
> Cynthia Philips directly via e-mail at Andair and that did the
> trick...got a very quick response with an apology for not responding to
> my previous e-mails. They shipped out the custom configured gascolator I
> needed last Friday and it was at my doorstep by 9 am Monday morning. The
> price was $150 (more than Vans charges at $125) but it's exactly what I
> needed and they gave me the Express shipping for about 1/3 the actual
> cost. So I'm now a happy and satisfied customer and just wanted to
> report it back to the List in all fairness to Andair's efforts of
> goodwill....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finishing....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealant |
I phoned the technical support folks at Permatex to get their
recommendation for a gasket sealer for the fuel tank end plate and quantity
sender. On their recommendation I installed both with their "Hylomar"
gasket sealer. Results: leak-a-plenty! The stuff just doesn't do the job!
I don't like the idea of a more permanent installation with Pro-Seal so
opted to try "TiteSeal" medium weight gasket and joint compound which I got
from Aircraft Spruce (Part # T25-66, $8.80 for a one pound can). Results:
no more leaks! This stuff is about the consistency of bondo body putty but
it never hardens and is impervious to most any type of fuel or other
liquids. I opted to install both the tank end plate and the quantity
sending unit without gaskets, just spread on a 1/16 inch thick film and dab
some into the screw holes and coat the screw threads prior to installation.
Checked under one p.s.i. pressure for 24 hours.
Hot tip: Save the metal crate straps that holds your kit crates together
and cut short strips to use as disposable putty knives to spread the goop.
I also use these to mix and spread epoxy and all kinds of goopy stuff. I
used some of the crates to floor my attic to store parts awaiting
installation and still other sheets to make temporary floor pieces for the
fuselage. The rest made a pretty good work bench surface. (I throw
nothing away!)
Still looking to make something usefull of the unused gaskets.
Ron Schreck
RV-8, Charlotte, NC
Wings finished, working on canopy fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Steve" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
| Subject: | Unsolicited Plug - Alberta Aircraft Overhaul - for C |
anadians only
I phoned these guy's today, and am pleased to report that they are
quite happy to provide supplies to experimental builders and will ship
anywhere in Canada. They have a web site www.alberta-aircraft.com but no
on-line ordering, however they will accept e-mail orders.
Whooooeee.... I may finally be free of the tyranny of Aircraft
Spruce & couriers with their ridiculous trans-border shipping & brokerage
fees, poor exchange rates and slow service.
Thanks for the tip.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gannon, Terence [SMTP:Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca]
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 7:49 AM
> To: 'RV-LIST (rv-list(at)matronics.com)'
> Subject: RV-List: Unsolicited Plug - Alberta Aircraft Overhaul
>
>
>
> Folks - it seems like this is a good place to share GOOD vendor stories as
> well as bad ones, so I thought I would add my own, with the usual proviso
> that I have no vested interest in these guys other than being a satisfied
> customer;
>
> Yesterday, I was in need of some AN426 AD3-4.5 rivets (for the wing walk).
> I assumed that I would have to either order these from Toronto, or
> California. Called up Alberta Aircraft Overhaul, talked to Trevor in
> parts,
> and not only did he have the oddball rivets in stock, he was more than
> happy
> to sell me the 4 oz. I needed. More importantly, I had them in my hands
> not
> 12 hours from the moment I figured I needed them, from a local supplier,
> so
> no nonsense with transborder shipping and whopping courier bills. I think
> he charged me $2.40 an ounce, or thereabouts.
>
> For those of you based in and around the Calgary area, I can highly
> recommend these guys - they are very homebuilder friendly, and have what
> appears to be a great inventory of certified AN hardware. Although I
> didn't
> specifically ask them (no need to), I bet they would be happy to throw
> orders in Canada Post for those outside the immediate vicinity. Also, I
> have gotten them to do priming for me in the past, and they sealed my left
> tank, and all of their work was excellent. Can't recommend them highly
> enough.
>
> They can be reached at (403) 250-1177, and they are located at CYYC. Use
> 'em or lose 'em, I say!
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Wings"
>
>
>
>
>
RE: RV-List: Unsolicited Plug - Alberta Aircraft Overhaul - for
Canadians only
I phoned these guy's today, and am pleased to
report that they are quite happy to provide supplies to experimental
builders and will ship anywhere in Canada. They have a web site
www.alberta-aircraft.com but no on-line ordering, however they will
accept e-mail orders.
Whooooeee.... I may finally be free of
the tyranny of Aircraft Spruce couriers with their ridiculous
trans-border shipping brokerage fees, poor exchange rates and
slow service.
Thanks for the tip.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: <FONT
SIZE1 FACE"Arial">Gannon, Terence
[SMTP:Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca]
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 7:49 AM
To: 'RV-LIST (rv-list(at)matronics.com)'
Subject: RV-List: Unsolicited Plug - Alberta
Aircraft Overhaul
-- RV-List message posted by:
Gannon, Terence Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca
Folks - it seems like this is a good
place to share GOOD vendor stories as
well as bad ones, so I thought I
would add my own, with the usual proviso
that I have no vested interest in
these guys other than being a satisfied
customer;
Yesterday, I was in need of some AN426
AD3-4.5 rivets (for the wing walk).
I assumed that I would have to either
order these from Toronto, or
California. Called up Alberta
Aircraft Overhaul, talked to Trevor in parts,
and not only did he have the oddball
rivets in stock, he was more than happy
to sell me the 4 oz. I needed.
More importantly, I had them in my hands not
12 hours from the moment I figured I
needed them, from a local supplier, so
no nonsense with transborder shipping
and whopping courier bills. I think
he charged me $2.40 an ounce, or
thereabouts.
For those of you based in and around
the Calgary area, I can highly
recommend these guys - they are very
homebuilder friendly, and have what
appears to be a great inventory of
certified AN hardware. Although I didn't
specifically ask them (no need to), I
bet they would be happy to throw
orders in Canada Post for those
outside the immediate vicinity. Also, I
have gotten them to do priming for me
in the past, and they sealed my left
tank, and all of their work was
excellent. Can't recommend them highly
enough.
They can be reached at (403) 250-1177,
and they are located at CYYC. Use
'em or lose 'em, I say!
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
Wings
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Browse List: http://www.matronics.com/browselist/rv-list
Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives
List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/
| Date: | May 03, 2002 |
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Aeroquip 816 hose fittings |
Listers,
Does anyone know of any problems reusing Aeroquip 816 hose fittings? I still
have all of the original hose assemblies from the Mooney installation of my
IO360 and would like to reuse those hose ends if possible.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett (RV-8 Engine & electric's)
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)jackpine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Russell Duffy - Ellison TBI & FAB |
Nick, We have an 8 as well and we installed teh Ellison and ran into the
same thing you are referring to. I am builkding the 8 with my father and he
actually handled all of this modification to the FAB and it was a lot of
work. He is not to good with his hearing anymore, but would be more than
happy to discuss it with you if you care to call him..just bear with his
hearing issue..his home number is 231-775-2232. His name is Doug Bell
I will mention to him that youmay be calling. We have an rv flyin tomorrow
at our hanger so Sunday would be best to reach him.
Hope this helps and if you can't get through to him, call me at 231-723-8874
during working hours mor 231-398-9106 at night after 800pm.
Doug Bell, jr.
Manistee, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
Subject: RV-List: Russell Duffy - Ellison TBI & FAB
>
> Does anyone have an address or other way to contact Russell Duffy? I'd
really like to talk to him about how he mounted his Ellison TBI with Van's
FAB.
>
> The fact that the TBI is about two inches "shorter" than a Marvel carb
makes for a problem with aligning the FAB to the cowl, and I'd like to know
how he did it. Any other folks out there who've come up against this issue?
>
> Nick Knobil
> Bowdoinham, Maine
> RV-8 N80549 (res)
> O-360-A1A, Whirlwind 200C, Dual LSE CDIs, Ellison TBI
>
>
> Looking for:
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587, N174KT (Flying 85 hours)- FOR SALE
> RV-3, Rotary engine project- Spar rework
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Rott" <ejrott(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: RV 7/7A Wings and Emp. |
I have decided to sell my RV 7/7A Project. A new relationship and work
responsibilities have taken all of my garage time. The emp. is completed
except for fiberglass. The Right wing is 90% done. Workmanship is
meticulous. All Jigs and fixtures are included. Located in San Diego
California. I would be glad to E-mail photos to interested parties.
For Sale
Completed Empennage with Electric Trim
Half Completed Wing Kit with Dual Landing lights
Van's regular fuel senders and gages
Sainless Steel Pitot Tube and cover
Angle of Attack Indicator
I paid $7926 + ($250 Crating/Shipping)
I will sell the package for $6700
You get over 15% off and about 200 hours of my labor.
I would prefer to sell everything together.
John Rott (j_rott(at)hotmail.com)
(760) 944-0367
San Diego, CA
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealant |
I am reminded of a story about 'Mr. Rolls Royce' walking through the
factory. He heard an employee, who was working on the finish of one of
their famous radiator grilles say, "That's good enough".
The employee was fired on the spot for his 'attitude' problem.
.
I am very deep into the fuselage of my RV9a, at this point. I have done
more than my fair share of fretting and worrying. I will probably
continue to do so, in the future. Hell, that's a lie. I will definitely
continue to do so. It's in the genes. But I offer that sometimes, 'it is
good enough'. Another way of saying that is we all worry way too much
about stuff. That does not mean that we should not worry. This is
serious business.
.
Keep in mind that I am not flying. Also keep in mind that not all
people that will offer advice are flying (their building plane). Also
that there are as many opinions as there are noses, out there, to
paraphrase an old saw. Let me say here that I am not reflecting on any
current opinions or posts. This is very general.
.
As to the current subject...sealing the tank..., as well as any other
subject; if you find a lot of people doing something, and it works most
of the time, COPY IT!. If you find something that works all the time
(good luck), don't question it, and don't experiment unless that is your
thing or you are into S&M.
.
Again to the current subject, I used the gasket and prosealed both
sides. I did so because it worked for a lot of people. And when it
didn't work, it was easy to fix. Again, I AM NOT FLYING.
.
My most resent worry was what color, what gloss, what brand name paint
to use in my interior fuselage.
I think I spent 100 waking hours and 200 sleeping hours, worrying about
this. If anyone wants to know what I did, contact me off list. When
looking at this, I now believe, whatever the outcome of my
decision,...it may or may not be the best decision I ever made, a better
application of my waking hours probably would have been to drive rivets
and get work done. And to get more rest during my sleeping hours so I
could drive more rivets and get more work done in my waking hours.
.
I am not saying , "don't fret'. I am saying; no matter what you do, or
how careful you are, it may or may not work. But go with the people that
have been there and done that.
.
This is all from a person that still doesn't know if he went too far on
dressing the edge of my skins.
I used the "V" debur tool. I used a wood blocked sand paper back and
forth, and then I used scotchbrite. The edges are real smooth. Did I go
too far?
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealant |
> This is all from a person that still doesn't know if he went
> too far on dressing the edge of my skins.
> I used the "V" debur tool. I used a wood blocked sand paper back and
> forth, and then I used scotchbrite. The edges are real
> smooth. Did I go too far?
>
Yes. The primary reason to smooth the edges is to keep from cutting
yourself. Other than for visible edges you could just wear Kevlar gloves and
never bother with them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Checkerboards |
In a message dated 5/3/02 5:06:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
> Hey Rick, how bout sending an "in progress" pic to VAF so we can share in
> your frustration. You know, the way we all slow down to look at a good car
> wreck. <;-) Seriously, this sounds interesting I'm sure I'm not the only
> one that would like to gawk at it a while. Hang in there.
>
> Eric
>
Great minds think alike - I brought the digital home from work tonight
but my timing was bad as the tape was still on and all had been painted
black. Hence, not really anything to see until the tape gets peeled off. I'll
try to get a couple pics out to Doug early next week. Like you, my paint
scheme is a copy of a couple RV's that I've seen and liked. I was a little
skeptical about going out on my own and 'trying something new'. I hope it
turns out half as good as yours!
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - waiting on the checkers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Fluid Reservoir |
While not causing any problem, I have always had a bit of red brake fluid
spit/dribble from the brake fluid reservoir. It is the type that has a
screw-in brass screen for venting on its top. My question: Would it be safe
to replace that with a plug with a VERY small breather hole in it to
minimize the dribbling? Other suggestions?
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/3/02 11:29:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> I remember seeing something on one of the lists about a cap someone
> > found that fits the vents... I have an extra, I will go down to Lowes
> > and see what I can find...
> >
> > -Bill
>
>
> Bill, please be sure and let us know if you find the right cap.
>
> Thanks!
> Randy Lervold
I remember the cap as being a rattle can of spray paint cap. I'm talking
about the 'small' rattle can you see in some of the hobby shops but I've seen
them at home building supply stores as well. The cap is supposed to fit
perfectly although I have not tried it myself (now I'm off the hook if they
don't fit). You can probably even buy the proper color paint with a cap that
matches your interior.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - please archive this stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | Cable bulkhead fittings |
Listers...
I'm using Van's cables for throttle and mixture,
those thick ones with the honkin' big capture
nuts at either end. I was planning on using
eyeball fittings for the firewall passthrough,
but the cables don't have to angle and eyeballs
are bigger than I like (RV-4, firewall space is
precious). I've seen "cable safes" mentioned in
the archives. What's not clear is whether or
not the cable safe will fit over those capture
nuts. Wicks and AS&S describe a "two piece" model,
but the description and the photo aren't clear.
So...will a "cable safe" work on my cables or am I
doomed to using big, expensive eyeballs? Any other way
of anchoring them firml;y to the firewall?
Thanks,
Dave Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4, 90% complete, 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 816 hose fittings |
Greg,
As long as the fittings can be installed per Aeroquip's instructions, I'd
reuse them
in a heartbeat. As an A&P, I've reused them many times. Just remember,
they
are visible to anyone looking at your engine installation so try not to mar
them.
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 Ailerons
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroquip 816 hose fittings
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know of any problems reusing Aeroquip 816 hose fittings? I
still
> have all of the original hose assemblies from the Mooney installation of
my
> IO360 and would like to reuse those hose ends if possible.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett (RV-8 Engine & electric's)
> Elizabeth, Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cable bulkhead fittings |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
i used rubber graommets with the split SS half pieces on the firewall
side.
Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx
dons6a(at)juno.com
***************************************
>
> Listers...
>
> I'm using Van's cables for throttle and mixture,
> those thick ones with the honkin' big capture
> nuts at either end. I was planning on using
> eyeball fittings for the firewall passthrough,
> but the cables don't have to angle and eyeballs
> are bigger than I like (RV-4, firewall space is
> precious). I've seen "cable safes" mentioned in
> the archives. What's not clear is whether or
> not the cable safe will fit over those capture
> nuts. Wicks and AS&S describe a "two piece" model,
> but the description and the photo aren't clear.
> So...will a "cable safe" work on my cables or am I
> doomed to using big, expensive eyeballs? Any other way
> of anchoring them firml;y to the firewall?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
> RV-4, 90% complete, 90% to go
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 816 hose fittings |
Greg Puckett wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know of any problems reusing Aeroquip 816 hose fittings? Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett (RV-8 Engine & electric's)
> Elizabeth, Colorado
> ============
Reuse them all the time in racing applications. Not a problem. Aeroquip advertises
these as
"reusable". Just inspect them carefully for damage and cleanliness and reuse to
your hearts content
if you find them to be in "as new" condition
--
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable bulkhead fittings |
I have Van's throttle and mixture cables with the eyeballs. Do not know
what the cable safe's are but..all of the nuts on the engine end of the
cable came off along with the two black rubber seals. After these are
removed, the cable itself is the thickest item that passes through the
firewall.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: <nauga(at)brick.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cable bulkhead fittings
>
> Listers...
>
> I'm using Van's cables for throttle and mixture,
> those thick ones with the honkin' big capture
> nuts at either end. I was planning on using
> eyeball fittings for the firewall passthrough,
> but the cables don't have to angle and eyeballs
> are bigger than I like (RV-4, firewall space is
> precious). I've seen "cable safes" mentioned in
> the archives. What's not clear is whether or
> not the cable safe will fit over those capture
> nuts. Wicks and AS&S describe a "two piece" model,
> but the description and the photo aren't clear.
> So...will a "cable safe" work on my cables or am I
> doomed to using big, expensive eyeballs? Any other way
> of anchoring them firml;y to the firewall?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
> RV-4, 90% complete, 90% to go
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealant |
Hi Gregg,
Actually Gregg there are a couple of other reasons for radiusing and
smoothing the edges of skins:
One is to remove stress risers.
The other has to do with the fact that paint will adhere to a rounded edge
more uniformly, The result is slightly better protection from corrosion
getting started at panel edges and creeping under the paint
Hi Barry,
I don't know if you went too far or not, but it sure sounds like you got
there! {:)!
Happy building guys,
Jim in Kelowna
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Tank Sealant
>
> > This is all from a person that still doesn't know if he went
> > too far on dressing the edge of my skins.
> > I used the "V" debur tool. I used a wood blocked sand paper back and
> > forth, and then I used scotchbrite. The edges are real
> > smooth. Did I go too far?
> >
>
> Yes. The primary reason to smooth the edges is to keep from cutting
> yourself. Other than for visible edges you could just wear Kevlar gloves
and
> never bother with them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
VAL Avionics is about to TSO certify their INS422 VOR/GS/MB all in one
digital nav system, sometime in the next few weeks. It fits into a 3.125
hole like the narco 122D units. Yet they also contain the marker beacon
system.
They are selling the first 100 they have now for $1950, without the TSO
label.
when it gets the label the price goes to $3000
www.valavionics.com
Mine arrives next week, I hope. ;{)
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV-List
| Subject: | Rivet for tank rib tooling hole? |
Need to get AN470AD6 rivets for the tooling holes in the end rib, I
guess the -7 will be ok. Is that what everyone has done? Sure would be
nice if Van's would just put a few in the kit.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet for tank rib tooling hole? |
> Need to get AN470AD6 rivets for the tooling holes in the end rib, I
> guess the -7 will be ok. Is that what everyone has done? Sure would be
> nice if Van's would just put a few in the kit.
How about a bolt and nut? You're going to proseal everything, anyway.
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steam Gauges Accuracy? |
>Konrad wrote:
>Has anyone ever tested (or compared) the actual "accuracy" of Van's
>Steam-Gauges. I just would like to find out how close they are in being
>right on the numbers, compared to the much more expensive monitoring systems
>of other kinds.
Being a software engineer, I am very fond of modern digital and graphic
displays.
However, there is nothing wrong with "steam gauges". They are cheap, easy
to install and accurate enough for the purpose. Who cares if the oil
pressure gauge reads 65 lbs when the real value is 63? Or is the real
value 63.1314159 lbs? Is this the fallacy of misplaced precision?
What is the value of a digital display that discriminates to one pound or
degree if the sender is only capable of resolving three or
four? Underlying the $1000 instrument is a sensor technology of
diaphragms, bulbs, resistors, thermistors etc whose precision may not be
very near that digital indication.
The displays are cool and with it. If I was filthy rich I'd have them and
a jet engine too but I saved some for gas and taxes.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6a flying.
820 Jackson Drive
Paso Robles, CA 93446-1812
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)isomedia.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 project for sale |
Details are at http://www.isomedia.com/homes/edwisch/RV8.html. Immediate
delivery (I've even got the ramps to load it on a truck), and the price
is a very reasonable $22,999, with all the sheet metal work done... or
best offer. Near Seattle.
Ed Wischmeyer
425 898-9856
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet for tank rib tooling hole? |
I just put a small patch over mine with AN426 3- rivets.
If you really want the AD6 rivets I have some 6-7 here. You can cut them
down
to 6-3 or so. I think you'll find them hard to set. A patch is easier. Just
ask those
old spar builders out there.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet for tank rib tooling hole?
>
> Need to get AN470AD6 rivets for the tooling holes in the end rib, I
> guess the -7 will be ok. Is that what everyone has done? Sure would be
> nice if Van's would just put a few in the kit.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
close.
2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
get the harmonic again.
3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
induction air leak near the carb?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim,
I would uncowl it for sure. Shake all componets, carb.,intake tubes, air
box and mags. If all
is tight then check all oil screens, pressure and suction. If nothing bad
shows up, try running the
engine, on the ground, and see if the harmonic can be changed by running on
only one mag at
a time. You might have a coil in one mag that is breaking down after
getting hot or starting to
self destruct.
Be carefull and don't fly until you find it.
Ross Scroggs, A&P
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4, Ailerons
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
For Sale RV6A Sliding canopy
O360A1D engine 600 hrs since new, oil analysis record. Using 93 octane in
left tank.
Hertzel constant speed prop. New from Vans
Wing leveler (Navaid Devices) coupled to a Garmin 295 and Garmin 195 with
toggle switch. (GPS s Hard wireand fused.
DG/attitude indicator./CHT/etc.
Bendix King 96A/97A Comm With intercom all prewired from Vans
Bendix/king KT76C transponder
Radio control and trim with either stick. (2 Pelter head sets)
Electric elevator trim dual control
Electric Prime.
Fused circuit braker switches from Vans.
Separate visual RPM indicator,
Wing tip welhelm Strobes with separate power packs in each wing tip.
Manual aileron trim.
New heavy duty mains,.All rivets are visible not a bondo special
At 8000ft density altitude 75% power using the GPS 120 deg triangle202 to
207 MPH.
Aircraft has about 200hrs since built.
$75K No attorneys, legal types or tire kickers please.
Do not archieve.
Respond to planejoel(at)juno.com
Joe Wiza
Or 941 474 0615
Cell 941 223 9940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
For Sale RV6A Sliding canopy
O360A1D engine 600 hrs since new, oil analysis record. Using 93 octane in
left tank.
Hertzel constant speed prop. New from Vans
Wing leveler (Navaid Devices) coupled to a Garmin 295 and Garmin 195 with
toggle switch. (GPS s Hard wireand fused.
DG/attitude indicator./CHT/etc.
Bendix King 96A/97A Comm With intercom all prewired from Vans
Bendix/king KT76C transponder
Radio control and trim with either stick. (2 Pelter head sets)
Electric elevator trim dual control
Electric Prime.
Fused circuit braker switches from Vans.
Separate visual RPM indicator,
Wing tip welhelm Strobes with separate power packs in each wing tip.
Manual aileron trim.
New heavy duty mains,.All rivets are visible not a bondo special
At 8000ft density altitude 75% power using the GPS 120 deg triangle202 to
207 MPH.
Aircraft has about 200hrs since built.
$75K No attorneys, legal types or tire kickers please.
Do not archieve.
Respond to planejoel(at)juno.com
Joe Wiza
Or 941 474 0615
Cell 941 223 9940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
> Whatever you did that made the engine quit, DON'T DO THAT AGAIN!!
> Unfortunately thats about all the advice I have, except be carefull.
I didn't!!!! I got it home just fine and am already doing my research
before opening it up. Sounds like an induction leak. That's what I was
thinking; but, I wanted more opinions. My buddy is going to help me sort it
out.
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
> induction air leak near the carb?
All the answers I'm getting seem to feel the same way. It was my thinking,
too. Just wanted more opinions. Will take it to Pat's tomorrow to let him
help me find the leak. It's opening up after the engine warms up; so, it's
heat related.
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
-------------
Jim, I know from personal experience that it is no fun flying with an
engine that is "just not quite right".
From your description, it sounds as if the engine is running lean when
you feel the vibration:
1) engine smooths out when carb heat is on; the mixture is richer when
carb heat is on because warm air is not as dense as cool air.
2) mixture control is fussy; sounds as if the mixture control is much
more sensitive because a lean mixture would result in the mixture
control not having to be pulled as far to cause a lean condition so you
are flying more "on the edge" of lean.
3) lean mixture will cause the EGT's and CHT's to stay up near normal,
or higher range (unless the mixture is extremely lean, which I suspect
is not the case here).
4) EGT's and CHT's all the same; sounds like something in the induction
system upstream of the cylinders causing a lean condition.
5) mags have no effect on the condition; would lead me to agree with you
that the problem is fuel/air related, not electrical.
So, I would suggest you follow your stated course of going through the
air/fuel system very carefully. Some things to consider:
1) Is the gascolater/filters clear? Check for full fuel flow.
2) You didn't mention whether or not the condition was helped by the
auxiliary fuel pump being used; might be an interesting thing to try.
2) Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and check for adequate fuel
flow.
3) Check the main jet in the carb.
4) Check the float level in the carb.
5) A biggie......are the fuel vents at the tank AND the carb float bowl
clear???
5) Has something happened to the mixture control cable adjustments or
fittings?
6) Another thing you didn't mention; does the problem occur on both
tanks?
7) Carefully check all intake tubes and gaskets.
Anyway, you have probably already thought of these items, and I am sure
I missed some big ones, but maybe this will aid you in some way.
Expect to endure a few anxious hours as you reestablish trust in your
plane. It is easy for us to think that the aircraft lovingly created in
our garage and faithfully carrying us through the sky will never let us
down; however, our planes are just mechanical creatures capable of
failures just like any other machine. You will need to revisit the
period of trust-building you endured when you first started flying your
plane....only you are probably not as naive as most new RV pilots! :-)
Best wishes,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim,
You were getting carb ice, and clearing it with carb heat. What else is
there to say?
You were in prime icing conditions: 50 degrees OAT; high humidity/rain in
area, cruise power setting.
I got my experience with carb ice on my solo cross country in a J-3 Cub in
December 1957 returning from San Antonio to Fort Worth under a 600 or 800
foot overcast at about 40 degrees OAT: Cruising along for 30 minutes or so,
the engine quit for about 1/2 second, like the mags had been turned off and
back on again as fast as you could move the switch. I was at 500' AGL just
under the overcast so didn't have lots of rom to glide to a safe landing and
had no clue what had happened - wasn't thinking carb ice at that time. Just
started circling a good pasture - after 3 circles and smooth engine op, I
rolled out back on course to the north. About a minute later the engine
quit (no noise, prop starting to slow down) - I instinctively jammed the
throttle fwd from mid range cruise setting - - - and got a wild cough,
cough, sputter, ...OH, I JUST BROKE A BUNCH OF ICE OFF THE THROTTLE
VALVE/NARROW THROAT AREA AND THE ENGINE IS EATING ICE! So, I pulled on
carb heat - THEN THE ENGINE RAN REALLY!! ROUGH - until it melted and gobbled
all the ice and resulting water.
Luckily, the engine never stopped - you can't windmill a C-65 wood
prop on a Cub by diving, even if I'd had enough altitude.
I cruised on, using partial carb heat, and pulling on full heat every 5
min or so to check for ice - I'd get the "sputter, ingesting water" cough
every once in a while when I'd pull heat all the way on.
Bottom line, when temp is below 60 deg F and there is humidity, you are
going to get ice in the throat of a carb at cruise power setting - the temp
drops in the venturi/narrow throat of the carb due to Mr. Bernouli's
fiddling with the rules for air velocity and pressure, plus the temp drops
because of the chilling effect of gasoline vaporizing right there in the
throat where it is sucked out by Mr. Bernouli's pressure drop feature. The
temp goes down below 32 F, the moisture in the air freezes to the walls of
the carb, no prob until the ice grows OVER the fuel jet and shuts off (or,
in your case, disturbs/alters) the fuel flow.
Go back and re-read your own e-mail post - you said it twice - the prob went
away with carb heat. And I'm deducing that the engine quit (or ran bad)
when you pulled on carb heat - because it was melting lots of ice and
therefore ingesting lots of water, which didn't burn as well as fuel!
On a related note, I was in Utah Christmas before last and helped John Hafen
as he built his RV-6A. He took me down 3 hangers to another RV-6 and
friend - who had landed on a gravel road and dinged both wing leading edges
on fence posts as a result of engine failure due to carb ice. That builder
had not even bothered to install a carb heat system!! Does that make me
feel like some folks don't understand carb ice??
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
I read an article recently either in aopa or the eaa mag about a guy in a
glassair
making a shakedown run before attempting a trip to Oshkosh. He had similar
symptoms. When he arrived back home and removed the cowl he found a crack
in the induction tube. He had it welded with reinforcement spacers so it
would
not happen again. I which I could remember where I read the article.
Earl RV4
Jim Sears wrote:
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim the guy with the glassair who found a crack in the induction tube used a
vaccum cleaner to provide pressure and a soapy liquid to check for leaks
after he had it repaired.
Jim Sears wrote:
>
> > induction air leak near the carb?
>
> All the answers I'm getting seem to feel the same way. It was my thinking,
> too. Just wanted more opinions. Will take it to Pat's tomorrow to let him
> help me find the leak. It's opening up after the engine warms up; so, it's
> heat related.
>
> Jim in KY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Yes, it sounds like an induction leak. And we have had Glasair owners
report induction elbow cracking from time to time. But, all except the
earliest Glasairs are fuel injected and the injector servo sits on the
end of a long 90 degree elbow. There are cross braces on the newer
installations, thats a lot of mass bouncing up and down out there. Now
I could be wrong here but doesn't the carb on an O-320 bolt to the
bottom of the sump? Sort of hard to get an induction leak there unless
the carb bolts are loose.
BTW guys, Glasair is spelled with ONE 's'. Let's show a little respect
here.
Bruce
Glasair III
www.glasair.org
I read an article recently either in aopa or the eaa mag about a guy in
a
glassair
making a shakedown run before attempting a trip to Oshkosh. He had
similar
symptoms. When he arrived back home and removed the cowl he found a
crack
in the induction tube. He had it welded with reinforcement spacers so it
would
not happen again. I which I could remember where I read the article.
Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Jim, if it is an induction leak, Bart Lalonde told me an easy way to check
it. Get some spray carb cleaner. Run the engine with the cowl off, and
(carefully) get underneath and spray the carb cleaner on the suspect areas.
If it is leaking, it will suck the carb cleaner in, and cause a rise in
RPM.
Again, you are pretty close to the prop, so be careful if you try this.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
If you are sure it wasn't carb ice, it appears to be a leaning condition
which is improved by adding carb heat which is richening the mixture.
Make sure carb is tight.
Small cracks in the carb gasket can cause induction leaks.
Check the needle on rear of carb, venturi, and butterfly valve.
Check mixture cable where it attaches to the arm.
Check spark plugs for proper tightness.
Check the hoses and clamps on the induction tubes.
Hopefully it is just sucking some air from a small leak.
Good luck,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok rv6
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
> Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
>
> Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
>
> 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> close.
>
> 2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
> get the harmonic again.
>
> 3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
> ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
>
> 4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
>
> 5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
> out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
> and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
>
> As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
> plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
> carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
> Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
> stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
> fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
> power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
> guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
>
> The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
> to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
> there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Lubricating the micro-stop |
I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT. Last night I took it apart, and I cleaned
and greased the moving parts, but that didn't seem to help alleviate the
heat problem.
Is this common? I have to assume so, but since I haven't read anything
about it in the archives I'm not sure. Is it just a sign that I need to
move onto something else and let the dang thing cool off?
Stupid questions, I know, but pardon my caution...I'd rather ask a stupid
question than have to replace the tool (or worse, kit parts).
)_( Dan
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I have one installed. It really looks great ... haven't flown yet though.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC
Engine Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
I'm glad you mentioned this.
For those of us up in the Great White North, and on the Rainforest West
Coast to boot, the carb heat control is the first one to be reached for when
the engine burps or the RPM starts to ebb. It initially makes things worse
as the accumulated ice melts and travels through the engine, so it takes
some training and nerve to stay the course and wait for things to improve.
Anyone who learned to fly in a Continental-powered airplane quickly realized
that the induction system was designed to make ice first and meter an
air-fuel mixture to the cylinders second.
We've even got Cubs on floats up here that, when conditions are just right,
can't generate enough heat to keep up with the ice- they just stay tied to
the dock until conditions change.
Those with warbird trainers will remember that some quadrants were so
arranged that the throttle could not be brought back from about 75% without
bringing the carb heat lever along with it. And the mixture was just the
opposite- advancing the throttle beyond 75% picked up the mixture lever and
took it to full rich.
So, my vote is for carb ice first, induction leak or carb malfunction
second.
Scott in Vancouver
-6 scratching for paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
> Jim,
>
> You were getting carb ice, and clearing it with carb heat. What else is
> there to say?
>
> You were in prime icing conditions: 50 degrees OAT; high humidity/rain in
> area, cruise power setting.
>
> I got my experience with carb ice on my solo cross country in a J-3 Cub in
> December 1957 returning from San Antonio to Fort Worth under a 600 or 800
> foot overcast at about 40 degrees OAT: Cruising along for 30 minutes or
so,
> the engine quit for about 1/2 second, like the mags had been turned off
and
> back on again as fast as you could move the switch. I was at 500' AGL
just
> under the overcast so didn't have lots of rom to glide to a safe landing
and
> had no clue what had happened - wasn't thinking carb ice at that time.
Just
> started circling a good pasture - after 3 circles and smooth engine op, I
> rolled out back on course to the north. About a minute later the engine
> quit (no noise, prop starting to slow down) - I instinctively jammed the
> throttle fwd from mid range cruise setting - - - and got a wild cough,
> cough, sputter, ...OH, I JUST BROKE A BUNCH OF ICE OFF THE THROTTLE
> VALVE/NARROW THROAT AREA AND THE ENGINE IS EATING ICE! So, I pulled on
> carb heat - THEN THE ENGINE RAN REALLY!! ROUGH - until it melted and
gobbled
> all the ice and resulting water.
> Luckily, the engine never stopped - you can't windmill a C-65 wood
> prop on a Cub by diving, even if I'd had enough altitude.
> I cruised on, using partial carb heat, and pulling on full heat every
5
> min or so to check for ice - I'd get the "sputter, ingesting water" cough
> every once in a while when I'd pull heat all the way on.
>
> Bottom line, when temp is below 60 deg F and there is humidity, you
are
> going to get ice in the throat of a carb at cruise power setting - the
temp
> drops in the venturi/narrow throat of the carb due to Mr. Bernouli's
> fiddling with the rules for air velocity and pressure, plus the temp drops
> because of the chilling effect of gasoline vaporizing right there in the
> throat where it is sucked out by Mr. Bernouli's pressure drop feature.
The
> temp goes down below 32 F, the moisture in the air freezes to the walls of
> the carb, no prob until the ice grows OVER the fuel jet and shuts off (or,
> in your case, disturbs/alters) the fuel flow.
>
> Go back and re-read your own e-mail post - you said it twice - the prob
went
> away with carb heat. And I'm deducing that the engine quit (or ran bad)
> when you pulled on carb heat - because it was melting lots of ice and
> therefore ingesting lots of water, which didn't burn as well as fuel!
>
> On a related note, I was in Utah Christmas before last and helped John
Hafen
> as he built his RV-6A. He took me down 3 hangers to another RV-6 and
> friend - who had landed on a gravel road and dinged both wing leading
edges
> on fence posts as a result of engine failure due to carb ice. That
builder
> had not even bothered to install a carb heat system!! Does that make me
> feel like some folks don't understand carb ice??
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
>
> >
> > Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
> > from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
> > back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
> > was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
> > and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
> >
> > Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
> > engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
> > was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
> >
> > 1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
> > miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
> > I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
> > rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
> > I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
> > close.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
I'm contemplating the purchase of a GPS III Pilot to replace my aging-poorly
Skyblazer XL and I wanted to verify with someone that has one; are the
database updates only $35 via Garmin's website? I notice they update
monthly, do you have to have previous updates or is each one all inclusive?
The last update for my XL is almost 2 years old (they aren't making any
newer updates) and it cost me $125...
Does anyone have a used III they want to sell?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lubricating the micro-stop |
Mine does get hot too using it, I guess yours, like mine, has a sintered
bronse bearing surface rather than a ball bearing.
If this is the case, there is quite a fair amount of friction when you
apply pressure to drill the hole as you are pushing the dril down
against the stop.
I find mine has gotten a little looser (wear ??) but still gets fairly
hot drilling a bunch of holes in a row.
Gert
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
> the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
> sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT. Last night I took it apart, and I cleaned
> and greased the moving parts, but that didn't seem to help alleviate the
> heat problem.
>
> Is this common? I have to assume so, but since I haven't read anything
> about it in the archives I'm not sure. Is it just a sign that I need to
> move onto something else and let the dang thing cool off?
>
> Stupid questions, I know, but pardon my caution...I'd rather ask a stupid
> question than have to replace the tool (or worse, kit parts).
>
> )_( Dan
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Do you have a primer? Was it in and locked?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
Yesterday, I got a strange harmonic in the engine as I was returning
from a local lunch run. I tried a couple of things and decided to just
back off the throttle for a bit. The problem cleared; so, I figured it
was a bit of ice, maybe. This morning, I headed out on a cross country
and got the symptoms again. This time, they didn't go away.
Flight time was about 20 minutes out, each time. Long enough to get the
engine good and warm. Outside temps in the 50Fs. The relative humidity
was up a bit. In fact, it was raining in the area, this morning.
1. The engine felt like a slight miss on one cylinder. Not a hard
miss. Sorta like what one will feel if a plug is misfiring on one mag.
I'd say it was like a harmonic out of phase, a tad. I could lower the
rpm and feel it subside. Same as I raised the throttle beyoned the 75%
I was running at. I could not get to full rpm; but, it was pretty
close.
2. Each mag was checked. No difference on each side. Go to both and
get the harmonic again.
3. All four EGTs held steady. All four CHTs were about right. No cold
ones on either mag for EGT or CHT.
4. The mixture was working. I could put full rich and could lean.
5. Here is the clinker. I thought it might be carb ice; so, I pulled
out the carb heat. The engine smoothed right up. I had plenty of power
and not harmonics. Ah, carb ice says I. Wrong! It didn't go away.
As I made my turn back home from about 40nm north of home base, I had
plenty of time to play with it. As I was playing with the mixture and
carb heat, I killed the engine and almost didn't get it going again.
Instant heart failure! Finally, it caught and smoothed out again. I
stopped playing with it until I got home as the mixture seemed very
fussy. When I got home, I did a ground runup and got pretty much full
power; so, I went up again. It stayed smooth until I was downwind. I
guess the cylinders heated up again and brought the problem back.
The key thing to me is that it will run smooth on carb heat. It seems
to be air and fuel oriented because the mags don't indicate a problem
there. Any ideas before I pull the cowl to start my research?
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS III |
I don't know about the III but the updates for the 295 are about $35, and
you don't need previous updates. They also update the software occasionally
which is free.
Neil McLeod
7QB Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GPS III
>
> I'm contemplating the purchase of a GPS III Pilot to replace my
aging-poorly
> Skyblazer XL and I wanted to verify with someone that has one; are the
> database updates only $35 via Garmin's website? I notice they update
> monthly, do you have to have previous updates or is each one all
inclusive?
>
> The last update for my XL is almost 2 years old (they aren't making any
> newer updates) and it cost me $125...
>
> Does anyone have a used III they want to sell?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> Eagle, ID
> ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lubricating the micro-stop |
Now that I'm painting, I've pretty well finished with the countersinking
cage and bit. So now is a little late to also ask for advice on a slightly
different problem I've had with it for years.
I can set it just right, sink a dozen holes perfectly, but every now and
then it would sink a hole way too deep. Then the next several would be
fine,etc.
I thought maybe there was a aluminum shaving caught in the depth mechanism
somewhere but couldn't find anything amiss.
ANyone else experienced this?
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lubricating the micro-stop
>
> I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
> the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
> sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT. Last night I took it apart, and I
cleaned
> and greased the moving parts, but that didn't seem to help alleviate the
> heat problem.
>
> Is this common? I have to assume so, but since I haven't read anything
> about it in the archives I'm not sure. Is it just a sign that I need to
> move onto something else and let the dang thing cool off?
>
> Stupid questions, I know, but pardon my caution...I'd rather ask a stupid
> question than have to replace the tool (or worse, kit parts).
>
> )_( Dan
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed/let us know |
Hey Jim,
What ever the prob is I wish you the best and I have nothing new to add, but
I ask that you let us know what the problem is.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Oddball tip of the day- DIY hole finder/nutplates |
I have just fitted the forward turtledeck (RV-4) and had already installed all
the nutplates with countersunk longerons and dimpled skins. How to find the holes
with the skin ratcheted down???
I knew the regular hole finder would not be very good - so... I got some ordinary
longish aluminium pop rivets (7/8"L x 5/32D), removed the mandrels, and threaded
the ends (8/32), and filed a hex on the heads. I gently treaded them backwards
through the nutplates and used a small drill bit (2mm) to backdrill pilot
holes in the skin using the rivets as disposable drill guides. I then used
a "bullet" drillbit to open the holes to take the screws. Remove "drill guide
rivets", deburr, etc. Job done! John Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | -6A Flap - FL406C |
Hello All,
I would like to know what others have done regarding fitting the inboard
rib/flap pushrod attachment assembly FL606(FL406)to the flap. The problem
is the FL406C angle section will not be flat on the bottom skin if it is
riveted to FL606B which is not vertical with respect to the bottom flap
skin. So does the angle section FL406C need to be bent so it will sit flat
on the bottom skin?
Thanks
Bill in Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Flap - FL406C |
Bill,
I installed FL406C as is. It really doesn't show up to well since it is
under the airplane
Keep building.
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga., USA
RV-4 Ailerons (Riveting tonight)
----- Original Message -----
From: William Ginn <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Flap - FL406C
>
> Hello All,
> I would like to know what others have done regarding fitting the inboard
> rib/flap pushrod attachment assembly FL606(FL406)to the flap. The
problem
> is the FL406C angle section will not be flat on the bottom skin if it is
> riveted to FL606B which is not vertical with respect to the bottom flap
> skin. So does the angle section FL406C need to be bent so it will sit
flat
> on the bottom skin?
> Thanks
> Bill in Sydney Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
Defiantly sounds like an induction leak. When you pull on the carb heat leaving
all else the same you have just enrichened the mixture enough to overcome the
induction leak which causes it to run lean.
Gary
Jim Sears wrote:
>
> > Whatever you did that made the engine quit, DON'T DO THAT AGAIN!!
> > Unfortunately thats about all the advice I have, except be carefull.
>
> I didn't!!!! I got it home just fine and am already doing my research
> before opening it up. Sounds like an induction leak. That's what I was
> thinking; but, I wanted more opinions. My buddy is going to help me sort it
> out.
>
> Jim in KY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet for tank rib tooling hole? |
I used a 470-6 and c frame with a mini (3#)sledge to set-piece of cake.
Bob in Arkansas finishing wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320 |
In a message dated 5/4/2002 4:04:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
> As the
> engine cooled back down on the approach into home base, things went back to
> normal. I'm thinking I may have a leak around a gasket at the cylinder
> since it seems so heat related. Of course, it could also be an induction
> tube. I've copied your ideas and will sort them out for my look into the
> engine, tomorrow.
One of our local guys with an RV-4 found out that he needed to use two
gaskets at each intake port to get a good seal. I checked these gaskets on
my new low time engine and found them to be cracked. I made my own out of a
much thicker gasket material.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Flap - FL406C |
This works out better for some than others. Mine didn't fit that well. I
actually cut the bottom skin of the flap the same as the top skin, instead
of having it lap on the bottom of the fuse. It all depends where your
incidence ends up for how well it will fit. Cut it, fit it, and finish it.
It's on the bottom and no one will ever see it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Flap - FL406C
>
> Hello All,
> I would like to know what others have done regarding fitting the inboard
> rib/flap pushrod attachment assembly FL606(FL406)to the flap. The
problem
> is the FL406C angle section will not be flat on the bottom skin if it is
> riveted to FL606B which is not vertical with respect to the bottom flap
> skin. So does the angle section FL406C need to be bent so it will sit
flat
> on the bottom skin?
> Thanks
> Bill in Sydney Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Lubricating the micro-stop
I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT.
Dan-
Mine got red-hot doing those holes, too. I alleviated the problem somewhat
(and got nicer holes, too!) by using the microstop in my much slower cordless
drill instead of my air drill. I liked the result so much that now I only use
the cordless to countersink.
Ed Winne
RV9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first? |
Gents,
Thanks for all the comments on the wing skins. Consensus seems to be do it
according to plans!
Cheers
Bill in Sydney
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Subject: Re: RV-List: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first?
Hello William,
My wife and I installed the top skins first and I agree with Mike Nellis's
post.
The top skin that my wife Chris bucked and I riveted conventionally turned
out a bit nicer than the one we back riveted with less difficulty and less
drilled out unsatisfactory rivets. The attempt at back riveting got us about
a third of the way along at which time we reverted to conventional riveting.
For the bottom skins Chris's smaller hand fit into the bottom corner of the
wing root wing walk area and allowed us to avoid use of any pulled rivets
there, a longer home made bucking bar helped.
I riveted the rest of the bottom skins alone and found no problems that
could not be avoided with a reasonable amount of research and pre-planning.
Starting at the root end using strings to pull the skins back, I rolled the
skins on working outward to the tip. I was quite surprised at how quickly it
all went.
Always read ahead, the farther the better, repeatedly read ahead
Happy building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: -6A Wing Skin, Top or Bottom on first?
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's experiences with putting the top skin on the
> wing first. Was there a problem putting the bottom skin on?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> Sydney
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | CASE NO 2 - Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320. |
Since your folks are in high-gear on troubleshooting engine problems, I
thought I'd throw my issue out there for debate.
I have a 160-hp O-320 pulling an -8. NEVER had a miss mutch less a quiet
engine in the last 395 hrs of operation (that's the TT on the engine and
plane). Never had carb ice (well, I've never noticed any symptoms).
Yesterday, I was climbing through 2-3000' and the engine just quit firing
for 1 to 2 seconds. Like I said before, it's never done anything like this
before.
I started checking temps, fuel pressures, etc and everything looked good in
the cockpit. The engine did periodically surge a little after that first
complete shutdown. This surge consisted of about a 50 rpm drop for about
1/2 second. Like Jim said, after this plane NEVER having given any reason
for concern, this bothered me. I kept climbing and headed toward a nearby
airport.
I tried carb heat. It made things rougher and didn't stop the surging. I
tried the boost pump, switched mags and various mixture settings with no
noticable lasting improvement. It continued to surge but not at a
consistent rate - maybe once every 2-3 seconds to once every 20 seconds.
I was still climbing by now and was up to ~8-10,000'. The surges continued
but weren't too bad unless I applied full throttle. The engine ran with
just a slight amount of roughness at full throttle. When I pulled it back a
little it smoothed out, but the periodic surges continued.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'll probably look for a fuel leak (sucking
air in front of the pump) and leaks in the induction system. I thought it
might be a problem with the main pump, but I don't know how that could cause
a little burp or surge lasting only 1/2 to 1 second.
The more I think about this, the more the symptoms sound like carb ice. The
problem is, I have *never* seen these symptoms before. That's what makes me
doubt that this is the case.
Thanks.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot micro-stop |
Ewinne(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Lubricating the micro-stop
>
>
> I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
> the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
> sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT.
>
> Dan-
>
> Mine got red-hot doing those holes, too. I alleviated the problem somewhat
> (and got nicer holes, too!) by using the microstop in my much slower cordless
> drill instead of my air drill. I liked the result so much that now I only use
> the cordless to countersink.
>
> Ed Winne
> RV9A
> Palmyra PA
>
I'll second that, I only use my cordless drill to countersink!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CASE NO 2 - Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320. |
RV_8 Pilot wrote:
>
>
> Since your folks are in high-gear on troubleshooting engine problems, I
> thought I'd throw my issue out there for debate.
>
> I have a 160-hp O-320 pulling an -8. NEVER had a miss mutch less a quiet
> engine in the last 395 hrs of operation (that's the TT on the engine and
> plane). Never had carb ice (well, I've never noticed any symptoms).
> Yesterday, I was climbing through 2-3000' and the engine just quit firing
> for 1 to 2 seconds. Like I said before, it's never done anything like this
> before.
>
> I started checking temps, fuel pressures, etc and everything looked good in
> the cockpit. The engine did periodically surge a little after that first
> complete shutdown. This surge consisted of about a 50 rpm drop for about
> 1/2 second. Like Jim said, after this plane NEVER having given any reason
> for concern, this bothered me. I kept climbing and headed toward a nearby
> airport.
>
> I tried carb heat. It made things rougher and didn't stop the surging. I
> tried the boost pump, switched mags and various mixture settings with no
> noticable lasting improvement. It continued to surge but not at a
> consistent rate - maybe once every 2-3 seconds to once every 20 seconds.
>
> I was still climbing by now and was up to ~8-10,000'. The surges continued
> but weren't too bad unless I applied full throttle. The engine ran with
> just a slight amount of roughness at full throttle. When I pulled it back a
> little it smoothed out, but the periodic surges continued.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? I'll probably look for a fuel leak (sucking
> air in front of the pump) and leaks in the induction system. I thought it
> might be a problem with the main pump, but I don't know how that could cause
> a little burp or surge lasting only 1/2 to 1 second.
>
> The more I think about this, the more the symptoms sound like carb ice. The
> problem is, I have *never* seen these symptoms before. That's what makes me
> doubt that this is the case.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
Did it ever go away? Did it actually quit for 2 seconds, or
run rough? If it actually quit, could you have had a small
slug of water in the gas?
Are you conservative in your leaning practices & do you
always use av gas? If so, you might have a sticking valve
due to lead/carbon buildup.
Stuck valves can come & go without respect to OAT, humidity,
etc.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CASE NO 2 - Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320. |
Bryan,
Was the fuel selector changed to the other tank? Could you have a fuel
pickup problem? Does your pickups have the anti-rotation clips? A rotated
pickup can make the pickup too high on climbout.
As with Jim's problem, just start checking for something loose.
Keep us posted,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: CASE NO 2 - Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320.
>
> Since your folks are in high-gear on troubleshooting engine problems, I
> thought I'd throw my issue out there for debate.
>
> I have a 160-hp O-320 pulling an -8. NEVER had a miss mutch less a quiet
> engine in the last 395 hrs of operation (that's the TT on the engine and
> plane). Never had carb ice (well, I've never noticed any symptoms).
> Yesterday, I was climbing through 2-3000' and the engine just quit firing
> for 1 to 2 seconds. Like I said before, it's never done anything like
this
> before.
>
> I started checking temps, fuel pressures, etc and everything looked good
in
> the cockpit. The engine did periodically surge a little after that first
> complete shutdown. This surge consisted of about a 50 rpm drop for about
> 1/2 second. Like Jim said, after this plane NEVER having given any reason
> for concern, this bothered me. I kept climbing and headed toward a nearby
> airport.
>
> I tried carb heat. It made things rougher and didn't stop the surging. I
> tried the boost pump, switched mags and various mixture settings with no
> noticable lasting improvement. It continued to surge but not at a
> consistent rate - maybe once every 2-3 seconds to once every 20 seconds.
>
> I was still climbing by now and was up to ~8-10,000'. The surges
continued
> but weren't too bad unless I applied full throttle. The engine ran with
> just a slight amount of roughness at full throttle. When I pulled it back
a
> little it smoothed out, but the periodic surges continued.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? I'll probably look for a fuel leak (sucking
> air in front of the pump) and leaks in the induction system. I thought it
> might be a problem with the main pump, but I don't know how that could
cause
> a little burp or surge lasting only 1/2 to 1 second.
>
> The more I think about this, the more the symptoms sound like carb ice.
The
> problem is, I have *never* seen these symptoms before. That's what makes
me
> doubt that this is the case.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Aircraft Upholstery Products |
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CASE NO 2 - Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320. |
BRYAN-carb ice can take 2 to 3min to clear and when you put heat on it gets
rough -TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need a place to crash followup |
I recently posted a message asking for a place to sleep. I was flying a
Champ from CT to TX. There was a message on the list asking if I'd be in a
specific state at a specific time. Unfortunately, shortly after considering
the trip , I got a
job. I had been unemployed for 3 months when I accepted the trip with the
caviat that I would cancel if I found a job. The bad news (good news?) was I
then found a job. The champ is so
slow that I couldn't take the chance on missing my start date. Priorities
you know. So the trip was cancelled. I thought I replied to everyone who
had made me a most generous offer. To those I forgot, I apologize. Thanks
again to everyone. As always, I am happy to reciprocate with a bed and an
airplane ride if you are in the area. 2 rules only. No smoking inside and
you must scratch the dog when he nudges you. (no thats not a euphamism for
something crude, just an old affectionate Lab who OWNS the house).
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Antenbring <mantenbring(at)slcl.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 HS Drawing 3 -- HS-609PP shows wrong number of holes (I |
think)
Hi,
Did anyone count all the pre-punched holes in HS-609PP? I have 58 in mine.
Drawing 3 shows 60 in the exploded ISO view, and is consistent with the rear
view -- it shows 30 holes left of the centerline. It shows the fuselage
attach points in the rear-view with plus (+) signs for F-111C. Are these my
missing 2 holes? So as a general newbie question, do you have to do manually
locate the rivet holes (like in the old days) where it shows plus(+) signs
on the drawing?
Q2: HS-710 & HS-714 (forward spar splices) requires a 6 degree bend on the
ends. Van's sais to achieve this bend, put these splices in a vice and whack
it with a mallet. Ok, before I do this, is there a more accurate or less
offensive way of making these bends?
Thanks,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hot micro-stop |
Even so, it gets hot. I was doing a bunch of C/S's the other night in my
baggage floor and I noticed I would keep setting the bit deeper and deeper.
I thought the barrel was maybe getting hot and expanding. I put it down for
the night. The next day, tested my first couple of C/S's and sure enough,
they were a touch too deep. I suspect the expansion when hot has something
to do with that.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot micro-stop
>
> Ewinne(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Lubricating the micro-stop
> >
> >
> > I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach
to
> > the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
> > sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT.
> >
> > Dan-
> >
> > Mine got red-hot doing those holes, too. I alleviated the problem
somewhat
> > (and got nicer holes, too!) by using the microstop in my much slower
cordless
> > drill instead of my air drill. I liked the result so much that now I
only use
> > the cordless to countersink.
> >
> > Ed Winne
> > RV9A
> > Palmyra PA
> >
>
> I'll second that, I only use my cordless drill to countersink!
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 HS Drawing 3 -- HS-609PP shows wrong number of holes |
(I think)
Don't know on the -7, but my guess is that the + holes are ones that get
drilled at time of assembly with the fuselage for mounting. One would not
want to drill them now, but wait until you mount the HS to the "mothership".
Van's advice might be crude, but is works. Try just putting in a vice, after
you've padded the jaws with something, and bend with your hands or by
attaching a longer lever of some kind. Layout a 6 degree bend line on your
bench to compare your bend too so you know when you get to 6 degrees.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Antenbring" <mantenbring(at)slcl.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 HS Drawing 3 -- HS-609PP shows wrong number of holes
(I think)
>
> Hi,
> Did anyone count all the pre-punched holes in HS-609PP? I have 58 in mine.
> Drawing 3 shows 60 in the exploded ISO view, and is consistent with the
rear
> view -- it shows 30 holes left of the centerline. It shows the fuselage
> attach points in the rear-view with plus (+) signs for F-111C. Are these
my
> missing 2 holes? So as a general newbie question, do you have to do
manually
> locate the rivet holes (like in the old days) where it shows plus(+) signs
> on the drawing?
>
> Q2: HS-710 & HS-714 (forward spar splices) requires a 6 degree bend on the
> ends. Van's sais to achieve this bend, put these splices in a vice and
whack
> it with a mallet. Ok, before I do this, is there a more accurate or less
> offensive way of making these bends?
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 HS Drawing 3 -- HS-609PP shows wrong number of holes |
(I think)
Mark,
The holes (or non holes in this case) in question are drilled when you
attach the HS to the fuselage. Do not drill these yet. Check your drawing
and make sure it shows the correction date of 1/7/02. This change shows the
correct postion for the 708 attach point.
As someone else said, just make your 6 degree bend using vise and "elbow
grease". No pounding required. With the new pre punched spars and skins,
this alignment is much easier. Give it a go, it's a piece of cake.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320. |
If all went well, the problem on my engine was resolved today. The
induction tube at the sump for cylinder #2 had worked loose and was letting
in a little air. Actually, someone had made a temporary fix on it before
that had given up; and, I didn't realize it when we did the overhaul. I
could have had it fixed, then. The material used wasn't very good, as it
appeared. Pat thought it looked like Bondo! I thought it might have been
JB Weld; but, he said it didn't look that good. I've made a temporary fix
that I hope will hold through the summer and will redo the whole sump when
the weather starts turning a little cooler. In the meantime, I'll keep a
close eye on it to be sure it doesn't work loose on me. At least I know
what to look for now! If I get that funny feeling again, I'll just remove
the sump and have it done, no matter what time of the year. Pat said I
should have it back in about a week. Wow! That's a long time to wait in
the summer months! I flew it home with a nice engine run, though.
Actually, the EGT for #2 was quite cool compared to the others. I even made
sure it wasn't over peak. It wasn't. I may have to have all of the tubes
repaired to be sure all are tight! :-)
I'll do some more testing this week by having some fun in it! There's this
little fly-in I want to attend next weekend; so, I have to make sure the
engine will run for that. I hope to give it a real test to get to that
because it's about an hour away. That will prove things out. :-)
Thanks for all of the input. I have a nice list for the next time. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Poor running engine |
Jim,
I'm tempted to jump in with the heat related mag failure. Your details don't
really explain some things, like how old is your engine, mags etc.
The symptoms aren't really those of induction leak, at least one to the
point of a misfire. And if it was, you should see it in EGTs and eventually
CHTs. Also fixed intake leeaks tend to be more noticable at idle. A heat
related leak isn't really very common, in fact the only time I've ever seen
them is when the induction tube cracks inside the slip flange, where the
metal tube is forged flat. High cylinder temp then stretches out the intake
tube and opens the hole. But this should create high EGTs for that cylinder,
only.
Its not uncommon though for a mag coil to introduce notice of impending
failure. They also tend to do it more when the engine is at high power as
the coil has to work harder when the cylinder pressure is high. It develops
greater voltage before the spark ionizes and fires across.
The bitch is how to test it. You might test it with a good ohm meter and an
oven, or try a different one.
One icing question I had was does your heated air door open to bypass the
air filter, or is it stock like Vans. If it does bypass the filter than you
could have had icing in the filter, and the heat never went there to melt
it.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
Not totally RV related but,
Those who live in So Cal. The City of Oceanside is having their town council
meeting this Wednesday at 1800 and the main topic is to decide whether or
not to close down this airport.
This is a very serious threat as they are considering it in spite of the
fact that they will have to payback a lot of money to the Feds that was
recently spent on the airport, if they do in fact close it.
If you're in the area, drop on by and throw in your two cents worth, or it
will be one less place to go to. And the C()c#suc#ing bastards who build
crappy housing indiscrimantly will take our land one more time.
http://airports.pilotage.com/l32/index.html
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airport Closure |
In a message dated 5/5/2002 5:23:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> And the C()c#suc#ing bastards who build
> crappy housing indiscriminately will take our land one more time.
Boy, you sure are making a lot of women who were unfortunate enough to be
born out of wedlock guilty by association. I understood from my mother that
used to live in Oceanside that local monks or Jesuits (or some other female
impersonators) were some of the people that wanted the airport closed, so
maybe you're not far off the mark.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: baffle question |
bert
i've seen what vans plans call for, and i've seen what i've done. its very
hard to describe, but here goes. instead of cutting the metal baffle side
near the eyelids that are fiberglassed to the top portion of the cowel, make
a notch on the eyelid so the baffle material goes between the eyelid and the
cowel. it makes a much neater install and seals better than haveing the seal
material on top in the air of the eyelid. i'll try and get some pixs
tomorrow.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to read
than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive heard. dws
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Scat tube finishing company |
An RVer not on the list ask me to see if anyone knows of a company that
finishes the ends of scat tubing so you don't have to deal with the cut
wire. he thought it used to be called Custom Duct.
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
Blank Does anyone know the highest time RV?
Claudio Tonnini's RV-4 made a 12,000 mile cross country from New
Jersey to the tip of South America in 1990 and must be high time by now.
Dennis and Fran in Chicago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
"d. wayne stiles" wrote:
>
>
> somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to read
> than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
> position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
> exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
> time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive heard. dws
>
I owned a Cannon A-1 camera with digital readout about 20
yrs ago. It was very difficult for me to use because of this
feature. You heard right. At least for me...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | GPS Navaid hookup |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
text/html
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I've searched the archive on mounting this rudder fairing light (no strobe).
Some good info there.
Anybody point me to a website for some photos?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)attbi.com> |
I'll second that. I switched to the cordless when I got to the wing spar
because it was chattering and the holes looked awful. I use the top speed
which is still way slower than the air drill. The slower speed makes the
holes looked polished and cuts just as well.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot micro-stop
Ewinne(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Lubricating the micro-stop
>
>
> I'm machine countersinking the hundreds of holes where nutplates attach to
> the wing spars. Problem is, since I'm doing zillions of holes in one
> sitting, the micro-stop gets HOT.
>
> Dan-
>
> Mine got red-hot doing those holes, too. I alleviated the problem somewhat
> (and got nicer holes, too!) by using the microstop in my much slower
cordless
> drill instead of my air drill. I liked the result so much that now I only
use
> the cordless to countersink.
>
> Ed Winne
> RV9A
> Palmyra PA
>
I'll second that, I only use my cordless drill to countersink!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
So how does one overcome this? It must be doable, considering the increasing
popularity of digital and EFIS-type displays. I'll have the Blue Mtn EFIS/1 in
my RV-8, but I did consider this "problem" before committing to it.
Larry
http://BowenAero.com
--- Robert McCallum wrote:
>
>
> "d. wayne stiles" wrote:
>
> >
> > somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to read
> > than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
> > position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
> > exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
> > time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive heard. dws
> >
>
> This is entirely correct. For years it has been standard practice in race
> cars, where you may only
> have a split second to look at the instruments, to orient all of the gauges
> so that "normal" has the
> needle either straight up or straight down. Your eye and brain can, almost
> instantly, at a glance,
> determine if everything is "normal". If it's not you can then take a longer
> better look at what's
> out of line by taking the time to concentrate on that one reading. This is
> impossible with digital
> instruments as you have to "read" and interpret the figures and then decide
> if the number you have
> processed is correct for that particular parameter. This takes a tremendous
> amount of brain
> processing time relatively speaking, resulting in the fact that "steam
> gauges" are definitely faster
> and easier to read. We are not talking about precision of the reading but
> rather speed and ease of
> reading. Digital is more precise if we define precise as knowing exactly what
> the value of the
> reading is.
> --
> Bob McC
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
The answer is that the better units do not show simple numbers, but they
show a graphical readout as well. Typically, this graphical readout (LCD or
LED) is color coded as well.
That is one of the advatages of the IK-2000 over some of the other "digital"
readouts. It has numbers, but right next to the numbers are LEDs in a
bar-graph arrangement which are also color coded.
Most (but not all?) of the digital readouts in the Blue Mtn EFIS are this
way as well... not just numbers, but graphics as well.
The key to looking at the IK-2000 for instance, is to just glance and see
that its "all in the green". I don't have to think about numbers... cause
you can't do that fast and accurate.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: "steam gauges"
So how does one overcome this? It must be doable, considering the
increasing
popularity of digital and EFIS-type displays. I'll have the Blue Mtn EFIS/1
in
my RV-8, but I did consider this "problem" before committing to it.
Larry
http://BowenAero.com
--- Robert McCallum wrote:
>
>
> "d. wayne stiles" wrote:
>
> >
> > somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to
read
> > than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
> > position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
> > exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
> > time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive heard.
dws
> >
>
> This is entirely correct. For years it has been standard practice in race
> cars, where you may only
> have a split second to look at the instruments, to orient all of the
gauges
> so that "normal" has the
> needle either straight up or straight down. Your eye and brain can, almost
> instantly, at a glance,
> determine if everything is "normal". If it's not you can then take a
longer
> better look at what's
> out of line by taking the time to concentrate on that one reading. This is
> impossible with digital
> instruments as you have to "read" and interpret the figures and then
decide
> if the number you have
> processed is correct for that particular parameter. This takes a
tremendous
> amount of brain
> processing time relatively speaking, resulting in the fact that "steam
> gauges" are definitely faster
> and easier to read. We are not talking about precision of the reading but
> rather speed and ease of
> reading. Digital is more precise if we define precise as knowing exactly
what
> the value of the
> reading is.
> --
> Bob McC
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Going too far? (was Fuel Tank Sealant) |
> OK, off subject. Saw something I had to share with the entire class.
> The
> U.S.S. Harry Truman was ANCHORED off the coast of Ft Lauderdale this
> weekend. During the air and sea show it brought a couple of Hornets
> onto
> the deck and cat shot them from an anchored ship. Wow, never saw that
> one
> before. I was really impressed, but no one else realy got the
> significance.
That's wild. They probably had empty weapons stations (or were slick)
and half tanks.
Must have been walk-in-the-park landings for them too - no deck
movement...
- Mike
DNA
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airport Closure |
Check todays issue of AVflash.
AVflash(at)avweb.com
FAA will not accept returned funds from St Petersburg to close airport for 20
yrs.
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Not totally RV related but,
>
> Those who live in So Cal. The City of Oceanside is having their town council
> meeting this Wednesday at 1800 and the main topic is to decide whether or
> not to close down this airport.
>
> This is a very serious threat as they are considering it in spite of the
> fact that they will have to payback a lot of money to the Feds that was
> recently spent on the airport, if they do in fact close it.
>
> If you're in the area, drop on by and throw in your two cents worth, or it
> will be one less place to go to. And the C()c#suc#ing bastards who build
> crappy housing indiscrimantly will take our land one more time.
>
> http://airports.pilotage.com/l32/index.html
>
> thx
> W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Painting prep question |
Listers,
I'm thinking about painting my RV-6A myself. I'd like to alodine it before
prim*ng. For those who have gone before me, how much alodine did it take?
It's expensive stuff. I don't want to waste any chemicals or dollars.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine fault analysis |
engine problems
engine bugs
engine fault analysis
engine debug
problem determination
engine power
engine problem determination
ECI
(above are future search keys) Ross has some good basic suggestions
here !
.......................
........................
Jim,
I would uncowl it for sure. Shake all componets, carb.,intake tubes,
air
box and mags. If all
is tight then check all oil screens, pressure and suction. If nothing
bad
shows up, try running the
engine, on the ground, and see if the harmonic can be changed by running
on
only one mag at
a time. You might have a coil in one mag that is breaking down after
getting hot or starting to
self destruct.
Be carefull and don't fly until you find it.
Ross Scroggs, A&P
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4, Ailerons
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problem determniation (more) |
More good engine advise. I am reposting this good stuff under another
title/name that will
make sence when you go looking for this stuff in the future using Matts
search archive option. In this case, sometime in the future I
would not know to use the "engine G U R U " as a search key when I am
having engine problems I am trying to fix......
................................
Jim, I know from personal experience that it is no fun flying with an
engine that is "just not quite right".
From your description, it sounds as if the engine is running lean when
you feel the vibration:
1) engine smooths out when carb heat is on; the mixture is richer when
carb heat is on because warm air is not as dense as cool air.
2) mixture control is fussy; sounds as if the mixture control is much
more sensitive because a lean mixture would result in the mixture
control not having to be pulled as far to cause a lean condition so you
are flying more "on the edge" of lean.
3) lean mixture will cause the EGT's and CHT's to stay up near normal,
or higher range (unless the mixture is extremely lean, which I suspect
is not the case here).
4) EGT's and CHT's all the same; sounds like something in the induction
system upstream of the cylinders causing a lean condition.
5) mags have no effect on the condition; would lead me to agree with you
that the problem is fuel/air related, not electrical.
So, I would suggest you follow your stated course of going through the
air/fuel system very carefully. Some things to consider:
1) Is the gascolater/filters clear? Check for full fuel flow.
2) You didn't mention whether or not the condition was helped by the
auxiliary fuel pump being used; might be an interesting thing to try.
2) Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and check for adequate fuel
flow.
3) Check the main jet in the carb.
4) Check the float level in the carb.
5) A biggie......are the fuel vents at the tank AND the carb float bowl
clear???
5) Has something happened to the mixture control cable adjustments or
fittings?
6) Another thing you didn't mention; does the problem occur on both
tanks?
7) Carefully check all intake tubes and gaskets.
Anyway, you have probably already thought of these items, and I am sure
I missed some big ones, but maybe this will aid you in some way.
Expect to endure a few anxious hours as you reestablish trust in your
plane. It is easy for us to think that the aircraft lovingly created in
our garage and faithfully carrying us through the sky will never let us
down; however, our planes are just mechanical creatures capable of
failures just like any other machine. You will need to revisit the
period of trust-building you endured when you first started flying your
plane....only you are probably not as naive as most new RV pilots! :-)
Best wishes,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb heat / carb ice |
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
Jim,
You were getting carb ice, and clearing it with carb heat. What else is
there to say?
You were in prime icing conditions: 50 degrees OAT; high humidity/rain
in
area, cruise power setting.
I got my experience with carb ice on my solo cross country in a J-3 Cub
in
December 1957 returning from San Antonio to Fort Worth under a 600 or
800
foot overcast at about 40 degrees OAT: Cruising along for 30 minutes or
so,
the engine quit for about 1/2 second, like the mags had been turned off
and
back on again as fast as you could move the switch. I was at 500' AGL
just
under the overcast so didn't have lots of rom to glide to a safe landing
and
had no clue what had happened - wasn't thinking carb ice at that time.
Just
started circling a good pasture - after 3 circles and smooth engine op,
I
rolled out back on course to the north. About a minute later the engine
quit (no noise, prop starting to slow down) - I instinctively jammed the
throttle fwd from mid range cruise setting - - - and got a wild cough,
cough, sputter, ...OH, I JUST BROKE A BUNCH OF ICE OFF THE THROTTLE
VALVE/NARROW THROAT AREA AND THE ENGINE IS EATING ICE! So, I pulled
on
carb heat - THEN THE ENGINE RAN REALLY!! ROUGH - until it melted and
gobbled
all the ice and resulting water.
Luckily, the engine never stopped - you can't windmill a C-65
wood
prop on a Cub by diving, even if I'd had enough altitude.
I cruised on, using partial carb heat, and pulling on full heat
every 5
min or so to check for ice - I'd get the "sputter, ingesting water"
cough
every once in a while when I'd pull heat all the way on.
Bottom line, when temp is below 60 deg F and there is humidity, you
are
going to get ice in the throat of a carb at cruise power setting - the
temp
drops in the venturi/narrow throat of the carb due to Mr. Bernouli's
fiddling with the rules for air velocity and pressure, plus the temp
drops
because of the chilling effect of gasoline vaporizing right there in the
throat where it is sucked out by Mr. Bernouli's pressure drop feature.
The
temp goes down below 32 F, the moisture in the air freezes to the walls
of
the carb, no prob until the ice grows OVER the fuel jet and shuts off
(or,
in your case, disturbs/alters) the fuel flow.
Go back and re-read your own e-mail post - you said it twice - the prob
went
away with carb heat. And I'm deducing that the engine quit (or ran bad)
when you pulled on carb heat - because it was melting lots of ice and
therefore ingesting lots of water, which didn't burn as well as fuel!
On a related note, I was in Utah Christmas before last and helped John
Hafen
as he built his RV-6A. He took me down 3 hangers to another RV-6 and
friend - who had landed on a gravel road and dinged both wing leading
edges
on fence posts as a result of engine failure due to carb ice. That
builder
had not even bothered to install a carb heat system!! Does that make me
feel like some folks don't understand carb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Going too far? (was Fuel Tank Sealant) |
The higher landing speed might have made the abrupt stop a little tougher.
AND if they missed, the go around might have been interesting as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Going too far? (was Fuel Tank Sealant)
> OK, off subject. Saw something I had to share with the entire class.
> The
> U.S.S. Harry Truman was ANCHORED off the coast of Ft Lauderdale this
> weekend. During the air and sea show it brought a couple of Hornets
> onto
> the deck and cat shot them from an anchored ship. Wow, never saw that
> one
> before. I was really impressed, but no one else realy got the
> significance.
That's wild. They probably had empty weapons stations (or were slick)
and half tanks.
Must have been walk-in-the-park landings for them too - no deck
movement...
- Mike
DNA
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
This is bogus. SULFNBK.EXE is a required Windoze operating system file,
and if removed you will loose all your longfilename files. DO NOT remove
it.
Rob Acker (RV-6).
>
> I got a virus. Please check you C:\windows\command folder for
> [sulfnbk.exe] & remove it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | brake reservoir dribbles |
SNIP While not causing any problem, I have always had a bit of red brake
fluid
spit/dribble from the brake fluid reservoir. It is the type that has a
screw-in brass screen for venting on its top. My question: Would it be safe
to replace that with a plug with a VERY small breather hole in it to
minimize the dribbling? Other suggestions? SNIP
You can scrounge up an eye dropper rubber bulb or similar item. I used a
vinyl cap plug that was made to protect the threads on a scientific
instrument fitting. Make a small hole in it that won't close itself up.
Place the bulb over the existing sintered brass fitting. Dribbles will
splatter into the bulb and get sucked back into the reservoir next time the
brakes are used.
Vince
F1-H Rocket, QB stage after only 2 years!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rv-list: N Number question for Registration of Aircraft |
I have reserved my N number via the internet and am
now ready to Mail my Aircraft Registration Information
along with my Bill of Sale from Van's.
The very first question on AC Form 8050-1 ask for an N
number. Do you go ahead and put the one that is
reserved or leave it blank?
Dan DeNeal
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb heat / carb ice |
Philip (& all others)
You rebroadcast my earlier e-mail re my impression that Jim had carb ice:
Not the first time I've been wrong!
I'm impressed that so many people deduced it was an inlet air leak problem
and not carb ice - shows my own personal lack of broad experience and
knowledge. I was just trying to be helpful, not be arrogant.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Carb heat / carb ice
>
> From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine guru needed. Strange symptons on O320
>
>
> Jim,
>
> You were getting carb ice, and clearing it with carb heat. What else is
> there to say?
[[ Lots, as it turns out]]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
A remote oil filter setup for an 036 costs a zillion bucks!
Almost.
Jegs and other auto suppliers offer remote adapters for just a few
dollars. Why not use one of them plus an oil filter with a built in by
pass and plumb it into one of the oil cooler lines?
Any suggestions, Or any one done that
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Good idea BUT watch the routing of the hoses. Make hoses large enough. Leave
some slack in the oil length. Pressure check the filter adapter from the
speed shop.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil filter:
A remote oil filter setup for an 036 costs a zillion bucks!
Almost.
Jegs and other auto suppliers offer remote adapters for just a few
dollars. Why not use one of them plus an oil filter with a built in by
pass and plumb it into one of the oil cooler lines?
Any suggestions, Or any one done that
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting prep question |
Steve,
I've been alodining my small parts before applying strontium chromate epoxy
primer for corrosion prevention. Haven't painted any exterior surfaces,
yet, though may start on empennage soon.
I'm curious if the professional airplane paint shops use alodine (PPG DX503
"gold" aluminum conditioner) or the alternative "acid etch" (PPG
DX533Aluminum cleaner) on the exterior before priming exterior surfaces.
Either alodine or acid etch can be used. Both cost the same, so not a cost
difference.
The instructions say keep sfc wet with the product for 3 minutes, don't let
it dry, then rinse with clear water. That is easy in a pan or long water
drain gutter trough for small parts, but how do you do the entire outside
sfc of the fuselage, or a wing and get that 3 minute dwell time without any
of it drying?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: Painting prep question
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm thinking about painting my RV-6A myself. I'd like to alodine it before
> prim*ng. For those who have gone before me, how much alodine did it take?
> It's expensive stuff. I don't want to waste any chemicals or dollars.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: oil filter: CORRECTION |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter:
Good idea BUT watch the routing of the hoses. Make hoses large enough. Leave
some slack in the oil hose length. Pressure check the filter adapter from
the
speed shop.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil filter:
A remote oil filter setup for an 036 costs a zillion bucks!
Almost.
Jegs and other auto suppliers offer remote adapters for just a few
dollars. Why not use one of them plus an oil filter with a built in by
pass and plumb it into one of the oil cooler lines?
Any suggestions, Or any one done that
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: oil filter: |
the Lycoming Spin on oil filter adapter isn't cheap either though
-----Original Message-----
From: doyal plute [mailto:dplute(at)onemain.com]
Subject: RV6-List: oil filter:
--> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
A remote oil filter setup for an 036 costs a zillion bucks!
Almost.
Jegs and other auto suppliers offer remote adapters for just a few
dollars. Why not use one of them plus an oil filter with a built in by
pass and plumb it into one of the oil cooler lines?
Any suggestions, Or any one done that
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Light) |
I forgot to post this info that someone installing tail lights may be
interested in:
I worked with Wicks until they bought 100 of the miniature corner plate nuts
for #40 screws (MS21073-4-40). I had to buy a few extra to help them
rationalize buying a low demand item. (Whelen absolutely wouldn't stock
them - they don't sell supplies to builders, just to retail outlets.)
Following the tips of others, I alway squeeze my platenuts with vise grips
and clean out slightly with a tap if I will need to remove the screws in for
future maintenance/inspection. The big platenuts, like in floor area, are
squeezed by factory to be oblong.
- These miniature corner plate nuts were squeezed in a triangle shape -
could not "unsqueeze" them to reduce the self-locking grip - and forgot to
run the tap thru (didn't have one that small - should have bought one) - was
a bear to get the screws in and out. Use the tap!!
I smoothed the inside surface with a couple of different sized Dremel
attachments to eliminate the seam where the two halves of the rudder fairing
were joined. Then, with lots of painstaking effort, I located the platenuts
inside and installed them with soft pop rivets.
On the outside/aft end, I used a file to flatten the area where the tail
light would mount - it seemed a bit concave. The Whelen tail light then
mounted with no intermediate plates and didn't have to rely on epoxying the
tiny brass nuts inside the rudder fairing.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Light
>
> I've searched the archive on mounting this rudder fairing light (no
strobe).
> Some good info there.
>
> Anybody point me to a website for some photos?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV-7A
> O-360 A1A
> Fuselage
> http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com> |
Is DYNON dead or just asleep?
Michael V. Nightingale
Deere & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
nightingalemichael(at)johndeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
FYI
I called and talked to Vern ext 113, 541-923-2244 x113, at Lancair,
today. Their supplier was bought out, and the price was immediately
jacked to $155 each! This is for the one that mounts with screws, like
gauges do. The other unit (drill a hole and put a big nut on from the
back) is still around $50.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Order the ones from Lancair. I think the price is close, and they are
> very, very nice quality. Worth the $100 for the pair in my opinion.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Light) |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I have never understood the reason for defeating the self locking feature of a
platnut. If you apply a little boelube to the screw/bolt before inserting into
the platenut the screw/bolt will not gall and removal is as easy as the AN365 nuts
Gary Zilik
>
> Following the tips of others, I alway squeeze my platenuts with vise
> grips
> and clean out slightly with a tap if I will need to remove the screws in
> for
> future maintenance/inspection. The big platenuts, like in floor area,
> are
> squeezed by factory to be oblong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
Let's distinguish between digital numbers and "digital pictures". The Blue
Mountain EFIS in this case gives you sliding bar indicators in addition to
numbers. Since you can program any scale you want for the sliding bars,
you can make them all line up in a straight line for "normal" This way if
anything is "out of line" you notice it at a glance just like the steam
gauges with the needles all pointing up for normal. Some of the electronic
gauges and monitors have this dual feature. Unfortunately, all of the
aircraft gauges I've seen are installed from the back of the panel and
mounted with four screws instead of a means to rotate the instrument so
normal is up. Cheap auto gauges are usually mounted from the front of the
panel and clamped from the back with a means to rotate them in the hole so
you can orient them any way you want
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
>
>So how does one overcome this? It must be doable, considering the increasing
>popularity of digital and EFIS-type displays. I'll have the Blue Mtn
>EFIS/1 in
>my RV-8, but I did consider this "problem" before committing to it.
>
>Larry
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>--- Robert McCallum wrote:
> >
> >
> > "d. wayne stiles" wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to
> read
> > > than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
> > > position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
> > > exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
> > > time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive
> heard. dws
> > >
> >
> > This is entirely correct. For years it has been standard practice in race
> > cars, where you may only
> > have a split second to look at the instruments, to orient all of the gauges
> > so that "normal" has the
> > needle either straight up or straight down. Your eye and brain can, almost
> > instantly, at a glance,
> > determine if everything is "normal". If it's not you can then take a longer
> > better look at what's
> > out of line by taking the time to concentrate on that one reading. This is
> > impossible with digital
> > instruments as you have to "read" and interpret the figures and then decide
> > if the number you have
> > processed is correct for that particular parameter. This takes a tremendous
> > amount of brain
> > processing time relatively speaking, resulting in the fact that "steam
> > gauges" are definitely faster
> > and easier to read. We are not talking about precision of the reading but
> > rather speed and ease of
> > reading. Digital is more precise if we define precise as knowing
> exactly what
> > the value of the
> > reading is.
> > --
> > Bob McC
>
>
>http://health.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hagen" <chagen(at)hagenrealestate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
I just bought plastic vents because of the screw job being given on the
aluminum vents.
Looking at Aircraft Spruce, the prices on the aluminum vents have gone from
$55 to $79 now $155 each over the last 3 catalogs. Aircraft Spruce also says
the supplier was the culprit.
Hopefully basic economics will bring a new supplier to the market...
Craig Hagen
RV-6A finishing kit
Grumman Traveler 160 hp
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 ''
>
> FYI
> I called and talked to Vern ext 113, 541-923-2244 x113, at Lancair,
> today. Their supplier was bought out, and the price was immediately
> jacked to $155 each! This is for the one that mounts with screws, like
> gauges do. The other unit (drill a hole and put a big nut on from the
> back) is still around $50.
>
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > Order the ones from Lancair. I think the price is close, and they are
> > very, very nice quality. Worth the $100 for the pair in my opinion.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
03:48:55 PM
I bought them from Wicks a while back for $56.00 each. High quality but
kind of a funky gunmetal that sure looks violet to me.
Eric
"Craig Hagen" (at)matronics.com on 05/06/2002
03:31:06 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 ''
I just bought plastic vents because of the screw job being given on the
aluminum vents.
Looking at Aircraft Spruce, the prices on the aluminum vents have gone from
$55 to $79 now $155 each over the last 3 catalogs. Aircraft Spruce also
says
the supplier was the culprit.
Hopefully basic economics will bring a new supplier to the market...
Craig Hagen
RV-6A finishing kit
Grumman Traveler 160 hp
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 ''
>
> FYI
> I called and talked to Vern ext 113, 541-923-2244 x113, at Lancair,
> today. Their supplier was bought out, and the price was immediately
> jacked to $155 each! This is for the one that mounts with screws, like
> gauges do. The other unit (drill a hole and put a big nut on from the
> back) is still around $50.
>
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > Order the ones from Lancair. I think the price is close, and they are
> > very, very nice quality. Worth the $100 for the pair in my opinion.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jackanet <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
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multipart/alternative
text/html
application/octet-stream
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--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
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resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
I ahve often wonderd why there is not a surplus market for these things.
There have to be a lot that are or could be salved from airliners that are
converted to cargo or whatever. there are 5 or more for each row on most
airliners. Some are plastic but most are aluminum that I have seen over
the years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Flap - FL406C |
I had a similar question when I was at that stage, and contacted Van's -
spoke with Gus. He indicated the angle bracket should be bent slightly
(along it's length) in order to match the angle both on the skin, and the
rest of the actuator bracket. Although said bend was difficult to do, I
finally got it done with a home made bending brake. Coincidentally, he also
suggested that the CS4-4 rivets used in this location actually require a #40
dimple, so he suggested drilling #30 and dimpling #40. This seemed to work
out really well.
Hope this helps...regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
PS. 40 cm of snow on the ground, and still snowing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
In a message dated 5/6/2002 1:08:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
richard.bibb(at)verizon.net writes:
>
> I ahve often wonderd why there is not a surplus market for these things.
> There have to be a lot that are or could be salved from airliners that are
> converted to cargo or whatever. there are 5 or more for each row on most
> airliners. Some are plastic but most are aluminum that I have seen over
> the years.
>
I got mine at OK in Hollister California 831-636-9036. They came out of a
corporate jet. $25.00 apiece.
Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 |
If you really want to see sticker shock check out the price of heated
pitot's, if you can find one.
Cash Copeland
> keith(at)galvinflying.com>
>
> If he doesn't want to PMA them, he could probably sell them for about $20
> per and make a modest margin. But, keep in mind, the bulk of the aviation
> market is in the "PMA" world and even that doesn't amount to a flea on a
> Great Dane when matched with the American economy.
>
> One of the reasons our parts cost so much is that the manufacturer has a
> small potential consumer base. The other primary reason is that the "Parts
> Manufacturer Authorization" is a VERY expensive blessing by the FAA. We can
> use automotive or marine parts if we want, but there's not much of a market
> in the non-PMA'd world. For example, nobody appears to be making a living
> making gear leg intersection fairings for RV's.
>
> Keith Vasey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
I have an extra one - maybe I can start a bidding war !!!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EAA sales contract |
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
I have my RV6A for sale and would appreciate a copy of the EAA sales type
contract for the state of Florida
RV6A
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
In a message dated 5/6/2002 2:22:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Lenleg(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> I have an extra one - maybe I can start a bidding war !!!!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
> Hooking up systems
How much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
To answer several questions regarding Alodine and etching solutions,
I'll just jump in.
As one of the guys pointed out, there are several tapes out there that
will really give you a good idea of just what is involved and what is
the minimum needed ( equipment and product wise) to produce a quality
and long lasting job.
One of the questions was, How do you keep large surfaces wet during the
etch time? I don't know about everyone but, we use a weed sprayer set
on a very fine mist. We use the same for alodining because it too has
to stay wet for several minutes. We also use a pressure washer to
ensure that all the product is rinsed off prior to the substraint being
applied.
One thing to consider is your sheetmetal is alcad, very soft, very pure
aluminum on the surface. With the many systems out there now that work
well over bare metal (etching primers, bonding epoxies and such)
depending on the system that your going to apply, you may not need to
alodine or etch at all.
With mixing to recommended ratio, generally a little over a pint of
Alodine will do a whole aircraft exterior.
For what it's worth...hope this helps.
Jim Duckett, RV-7A
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | FA: New Narco Transponder, Narco ELT910, Kollsman Direction |
Indicator
Hi,
I have the following for auction on EBAY:
New Narco AT150 Transponder:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item1826633912
Used Narco ELT 910:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item1826629987
Anitque Kollsman Direction Finder:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?
ViewItemRedirect&item1826638519
Thanks,
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LonginoDA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: oil filter: |
I bought a remote filter adapter for under $500 from aircraft spruce for my
0-360 in an RV6A. Best money I ever spent. I'd be careful of the auto
filters. Read the accident briefs at the NTSB site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "steam gauges" |
Exactly correct. The major drawback however is there is no automated alert
to an abnormal condition with standard gauges. The question to ask yourself
is what provides you more value WRT what you have the instrument for. I
want a system that monitors for something going wrong.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (first engine start yesterday - using Grand Rapids EIS)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of d. wayne stiles
Subject: RV-List: Re: "steam gauges"
somewhere I recall reading that analog dials are easier and faster to read
than digital since the brain can interpret accurately by relative needle
position rather than having to read numbers, compute, and report. For
exaple a very brief glance at a traditional clock face will give you the
time quicker than a look at a digital. 'least that's what Ive heard. dws
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: oil filter: |
LonginoDA(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I bought a remote filter adapter for under $500 from aircraft spruce for my
> 0-360 in an RV6A. Best money I ever spent. I'd be careful of the auto
> filters. Read the accident briefs at the NTSB site.
>
I don't think anyone was advocating using auto oil filters, just
automotive filter mounts.
The Champion 48108 aircraft filter fits perfectly on a Ford filter
mount. You can see details here:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine2.html
However, I got a porous filter mount that caused all sorts of grief. I
recommend you pressure test the filter mount as Cy Galley suggested
earlier.
The best solution for me was the accessory case filter adapter from
Niagara Airparts. You can get more info on this page:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/overhaul-3.htm
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
Regarding high time RV's, Jon Johanson's globe-circling RV-4 has over
2,500 hours on the airframe.
Only problem has been some cracks in the gearleg area of the
engine/gearleg mounts.
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Any news on the MN fly-in? |
> Subject: RV-List: Any news on the MN fly-in?
>
>
Thanks for asking. We were very pleased with the turnout, all told we
counted around 230 people attending with around 50 airplanes of which
about 35 were RVs. The Golden Wings Museum was a fantastic backdrop for
the forum. We will post some pictures soon on the RV Forum website.
Stay tuned...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 140 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting prep question |
David:
This is not an ether/or question; both an acid etch followed by the Alodine
treatment are used by professional shops. The acid etch cleans and provides
"tooth" for subsequent treatments and coatings. The Alodine is a conversion
coating that inhibits corrosion. I am sure there are ample better
explanations in the achieves, or order any of the paint manufacturers data
sheets and instructions for any one of the popular aircraft coating
manufacturers: US Paint (Alumagrip), JetGlow, etc.
It is true that many homebuilders skip one or both steps, which is probably
OK in a good environment but a good commercially done job will include both
processes.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting prep question
>
> Steve,
>
> I've been alodining my small parts before applying strontium chromate
epoxy
> primer for corrosion prevention. Haven't painted any exterior surfaces,
> yet, though may start on empennage soon.
>
> I'm curious if the professional airplane paint shops use alodine (PPG
DX503
> "gold" aluminum conditioner) or the alternative "acid etch" (PPG
> DX533Aluminum cleaner) on the exterior before priming exterior surfaces.
> Either alodine or acid etch can be used. Both cost the same, so not a
cost
> difference.
>
> The instructions say keep sfc wet with the product for 3 minutes, don't
let
> it dry, then rinse with clear water. That is easy in a pan or long water
> drain gutter trough for small parts, but how do you do the entire outside
> sfc of the fuselage, or a wing and get that 3 minute dwell time without
any
> of it drying?
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV-List: Painting prep question
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I'm thinking about painting my RV-6A myself. I'd like to alodine it
before
> > prim*ng. For those who have gone before me, how much alodine did it
take?
> > It's expensive stuff. I don't want to waste any chemicals or dollars.
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Huntington, Vermont
> > N227RV
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA sales contract |
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
> I have my RV6A for sale and would appreciate a copy of the EAA sales type
> contract for the state of Florida
>
> RV6A
>
> Joe
>
Check around on the EAA website there is one there..
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealant |
I installed my hole covers as per the drawings cork gasket and screws. I
cleaned the area around the edge and applied a bead of Pro Seal around
the edge, just enough to seal the edge to the tank then a bit around
each screw leaving some of the screwdriver socket open. I haven't had
any leaks. Over the years I have had them of a couple of times and
reinstalled the same way and was able to reuse the gasket.
To remove them I use a box cutter and go around the edge and turn the
screws out without any cutting. Removal and clean-up is only a matter of
minutes.
It has worked well and am doing the 6A the same way.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
Hi all...
This morning at about 9:30 8WV and I found our way into the air, the
weather was perfect, and the flight went great!
Didn't do too much, climbed to about 3000' above the airport (which was
about 9500' MSL), did some turns, slow-flight, and a simulated approach,
descended to pattern altitude, then made a pretty darn good landing...
I don't really have any good numbers to pass along yet, but I plan to
document the test fights in detail and will pass along all the data to
you via my website...
Special thanks to my wife Debi, all my RV buddies here in Colorado, and
all the listers I have corresponded with over the past 2 years and 9
month... I couldn't have done it without you! Oh, and THANKS VAN!!!
I have posted a few pictures to my website... I will be getting some
more up as soon as I get them...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Flying!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems! |
MY EXHAUST PIPES BREAK OFF IN FLIGHT!
I've got an on-going problem with the exhaust pipes on my RV-6.
The left side pipes keep breaking off in flight! Not good!
They break right at the weld at the flange on the rear left cylinder. That
pair has a slip joint in the front, and when the exhaust pipe vibrates and
shakes in flight, it eventually fatigue cracks at the weld, and then slips
out of the joint at the front (no little hooks or springs there), and then th
e pipe rattles around in the cowling held only by the EGT probe wires until I
can get it on the ground. Happened 3 times now!
I didn't build this RV-6, another guy did. I don't know if these are
"Vetterman pipes" or not. But they look good. Its just a matter of figuring
out how to SUPPORT the pipes so they don't flop around so much with normal
engine vibrations. I'm not sure, but I'd guess engine start and shutdown are
the most violent 'shakes', but the pipes seem to fail in flight during high
EGT operation.
The right side pipes never give me a problem, despite the fact they have
the heat muff around them, and are supported by a very rigid rubber strap
hanging from the firewall of all places! You'd think that alone would rip
'em off when the engine torques and twists! But, perhaps the heater hoses and
such provide a stablizing effect.
The left side pipes were supported at the cowling outlet by another rigid
rubber strap hanging from the firewall, but that got ripped right off the
first time. I fixed it, and it ripped off again. I replaced it with a X
spring arrangement, hoping the springs would alllow movement, but basically
hold the pipe from large vibrations. That also failed, and the pipe ripped
the springs right off the firewall when the pipe weld again failed at the
cylinder head flange.
My latest 'fix": A strong angle support structure I built that bolts to
the back of the engine (I figured the engine is shaking, so why not secure
the pipe to the engine and let it all shake together, but held tightly so it
doesn't yank on the exhaust port flange?) The angle (6061 aluminum 1/2"
angle stock) attaches to a big bolt on the back of the engine (same bolt
holds the magneto on the engine) and hangs down to a bracket I've strapped
low on the exhaust pipe. The whole assembly, pipe, bracket, support angle,
and engine, should all move and shake precisely together. I can't see any way
for it to shake loose or push or pull on itself.
The angle stock support was riveted on to the bracket I strapped (using
strong stainless steel hose clamp) to the lower end of the pipe. After only
2 hours of flight, I've found those rivets have been sheared! That takes
some kinda stress! I did not do any acrobatics, nothing more than 2 G's that
I can recall, but a lot of turbulence in gusty winds around Las Vegas.
So... HOW does everyone else support their exhaust pipes so they don't
suffer the indignity of G forces and being shaken and torqued and stressed so
bad they break off from the engine flange? I've had these re-welded by TiG
welders that say "That'l never break loose!" ... but it does, every time!
Dan Eikleberry
RV-6 Flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: oil filter: |
Use the racing remote adapters with aircraft filters. Problem solved.
----- Original Message -----
From: <LonginoDA(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: oil filter:
I bought a remote filter adapter for under $500 from aircraft spruce for my
0-360 in an RV6A. Best money I ever spent. I'd be careful of the auto
filters. Read the accident briefs at the NTSB site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems! |
DanJE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> MY EXHAUST PIPES BREAK OFF IN FLIGHT!
>
> I've got an on-going problem with the exhaust pipes on my RV-6.
> The left side pipes keep breaking off in flight! Not good!
>
If you only have slip joints in the front and nowhere else it is
a good guess you DO NOT have Vettermans's. My advice it to call
Larry and bite the bullet and buy his exhaust system. I to had the
famous "break away" brand X and had ongoing problems tell I put Vettermans
on.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight... |
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hi all...
>
> This morning at about 9:30 8WV and I found our way into the air, the
> weather was perfect, and the flight went great!
Hey Bill!!
Great Job!!
I hope your flight with Stugart helped some. Glad you were able to
come out to the airshow... we were even able to show you a good
old-fashioned Stearman crash!
:)
Enjoy it!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey Mike...
Flying with Jim was great... He's a great guy and instructor! The bad
thing was going from your 700' altitude and Jim's 180hp constant speed
to my 6700' alt and 150hp wood prop... Things were nice and mellow
compared to flying Jim's bird, what an awesome plane he has!
So did someone else actually let the Stearman pilot fly their plane the
on Sunday?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Thompson
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight...
Hey Bill!!
Great Job!!
I hope your flight with Stugart helped some. Glad you were able to come
out to the airshow... we were even able to show you a good old-fashioned
Stearman crash!
:)
Enjoy it!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hey Mike...
>
> Flying with Jim was great... He's a great guy and instructor! The
> bad
> thing was going from your 700' altitude and Jim's 180hp constant
> speed
> to my 6700' alt and 150hp wood prop... Things were nice and mellow
> compared to flying Jim's bird, what an awesome plane he has!
We flat-landers do have it pretty good... as long as we stay close to
home plate.
> So did someone else actually let the Stearman pilot fly their plane
> on Sunday?
Naw... I think the FAA wants to chew on him some before he gets behind
the stick again. Can you say "Remedial Training"?
:)
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight... |
Bill,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!!
The pictures and RV-Grin look great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly Airport)
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'Vansairforce'" ,
>"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" , "'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight...
>Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:05:32 -0600
>
>
>Hi all...
>
>This morning at about 9:30 8WV and I found our way into the air, the
>weather was perfect, and the flight went great!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, Owners/Builders list needed |
I am developing several products that are common to the RV series aircraft
and need to validate the concepts with a marketing survey of the RV owners
and builders. Does anyone out there know where there would be a list
available? I have already checked with Vans Aircraft and they do not release
their customer list.
Thanks for your assistance.
Scott Morrow
________________________________________________________________________________
As a former Tech Rep for Superflite, I found using a sponge to keep the
surface wet works very well and there is no question about good penetration
with the Alodine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Duckett [mailto:perfeng(at)3rivers.net]
Subject: RV-List: paint prep
To answer several questions regarding Alodine and etching solutions,
I'll just jump in.
As one of the guys pointed out, there are several tapes out there that
will really give you a good idea of just what is involved and what is
the minimum needed ( equipment and product wise) to produce a quality
and long lasting job.
One of the questions was, How do you keep large surfaces wet during the
etch time? I don't know about everyone but, we use a weed sprayer set
on a very fine mist. We use the same for alodining because it too has
to stay wet for several minutes. We also use a pressure washer to
ensure that all the product is rinsed off prior to the substraint being
applied.
One thing to consider is your sheetmetal is alcad, very soft, very pure
aluminum on the surface. With the many systems out there now that work
well over bare metal (etching primers, bonding epoxies and such)
depending on the system that your going to apply, you may not need to
alodine or etch at all.
With mixing to recommended ratio, generally a little over a pint of
Alodine will do a whole aircraft exterior.
For what it's worth...hope this helps.
Jim Duckett, RV-7A
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, Owners/Builders list needed |
Scott,
I'd say you're talking to the majority of them right now!
Just gin up your survey, post the URL to this newsgroup, and most of us
will respond.
- Mike
--- Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am developing several products that are common to the RV series
> aircraft
> and need to validate the concepts with a marketing survey of the RV
> owners
> and builders. Does anyone out there know where there would be a list
> available? I have already checked with Vans Aircraft and they do not
> release
> their customer list.
>
> Thanks for your assistance.
>
> Scott Morrow
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight... |
Most Excellent Bill! Try to contain your excitement however so you can get
some work done. Nah, grin all day!
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, May 06, 2002 09:41:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight...
Hi all...
This morning at about 9:30 8WV and I found our way into the air, the
weather was perfect, and the flight went great!
Didn't do too much, climbed to about 3000' above the airport (which was
about 9500' MSL), did some turns, slow-flight, and a simulated approach,
descended to pattern altitude, then made a pretty darn good landing...
I don't really have any good numbers to pass along yet, but I plan to
document the test fights in detail and will pass along all the data to
you via my website...
Special thanks to my wife Debi, all my RV buddies here in Colorado, and
all the listers I have corresponded with over the past 2 years and 9
month... I couldn't have done it without you! Oh, and THANKS VAN!!!
I have posted a few pictures to my website... I will be getting some
more up as soon as I get them...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - Flying!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems! |
Dan, I can't tell if your exhaust pipes have a vibration dampening mount
on them. Mine do. It is a piece of pipe that has a 90 degree bend on
either end and clamps around the exhaust pipes. They break every once in a
while. There is an interesting fix that I have run accross with pictures at
the following website.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm see the 135hr report for the
fix.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DanJE(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems!
> --> RV6-List message posted by: DanJE(at)aol.com
>
>
> MY EXHAUST PIPES BREAK OFF IN FLIGHT!
>
> I've got an on-going problem with the exhaust pipes on my RV-6.
> The left side pipes keep breaking off in flight! Not good!
>
> They break right at the weld at the flange on the rear left cylinder. That
> pair has a slip joint in the front, and when the exhaust pipe vibrates and
> shakes in flight, it eventually fatigue cracks at the weld, and then slips
> out of the joint at the front (no little hooks or springs there), and then
th
> e pipe rattles around in the cowling held only by the EGT probe wires
until I
> can get it on the ground. Happened 3 times now!
>
> I didn't build this RV-6, another guy did. I don't know if these are
> "Vetterman pipes" or not. But they look good. Its just a matter of
figuring
> out how to SUPPORT the pipes so they don't flop around so much with normal
> engine vibrations. I'm not sure, but I'd guess engine start and shutdown
are
> the most violent 'shakes', but the pipes seem to fail in flight during
high
> EGT operation.
>
> The right side pipes never give me a problem, despite the fact they
have
> the heat muff around them, and are supported by a very rigid rubber strap
> hanging from the firewall of all places! You'd think that alone would rip
> 'em off when the engine torques and twists! But, perhaps the heater hoses
and
> such provide a stablizing effect.
>
> The left side pipes were supported at the cowling outlet by another
rigid
> rubber strap hanging from the firewall, but that got ripped right off the
> first time. I fixed it, and it ripped off again. I replaced it with a X
> spring arrangement, hoping the springs would alllow movement, but
basically
> hold the pipe from large vibrations. That also failed, and the pipe
ripped
> the springs right off the firewall when the pipe weld again failed at the
> cylinder head flange.
>
> My latest 'fix": A strong angle support structure I built that bolts
to
> the back of the engine (I figured the engine is shaking, so why not secure
> the pipe to the engine and let it all shake together, but held tightly so
it
> doesn't yank on the exhaust port flange?) The angle (6061 aluminum 1/2"
> angle stock) attaches to a big bolt on the back of the engine (same bolt
> holds the magneto on the engine) and hangs down to a bracket I've strapped
> low on the exhaust pipe. The whole assembly, pipe, bracket, support
angle,
> and engine, should all move and shake precisely together. I can't see any
way
> for it to shake loose or push or pull on itself.
>
> The angle stock support was riveted on to the bracket I strapped
(using
> strong stainless steel hose clamp) to the lower end of the pipe. After
only
> 2 hours of flight, I've found those rivets have been sheared! That takes
> some kinda stress! I did not do any acrobatics, nothing more than 2 G's
that
> I can recall, but a lot of turbulence in gusty winds around Las Vegas.
>
> So... HOW does everyone else support their exhaust pipes so they don't
> suffer the indignity of G forces and being shaken and torqued and stressed
so
> bad they break off from the engine flange? I've had these re-welded by
TiG
> welders that say "That'l never break loose!" ... but it does, every time!
>
> Dan Eikleberry
> RV-6 Flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Hangar space-CA/NV |
I am looking for some hangar space (T-hangar or share)
for an RV4 in the Boulder City/Las Vegas Area until
October. Anything available?
As an alternate, Van Nuys/Whiteman/Fox Field or
anywhere by the San Fernando Valley could work too.
Please contact me off list.
Emmanuelle
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
Can anyone confirm that the p/n 13-03600 in the Spruce catalog is an exact
retrofit for the Van's plastic unit? My passengers have been whining all
winter, I should really replace my rear vent. For some reason I got lucky on
my front vent -- the plastic one seals completely when closed.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 154.6 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
>
> I just bought plastic vents because of the screw job being given on the
> aluminum vents.
>
> Looking at Aircraft Spruce, the prices on the aluminum vents have gone
from
> $55 to $79 now $155 each over the last 3 catalogs. Aircraft Spruce also
says
> the supplier was the culprit.
>
> Hopefully basic economics will bring a new supplier to the market...
>
> Craig Hagen
> RV-6A finishing kit
> Grumman Traveler 160 hp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 ''
>
>
> >
> > FYI
> > I called and talked to Vern ext 113, 541-923-2244 x113, at Lancair,
> > today. Their supplier was bought out, and the price was immediately
> > jacked to $155 each! This is for the one that mounts with screws, like
> > gauges do. The other unit (drill a hole and put a big nut on from the
> > back) is still around $50.
> >
> > Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
> >
> > Paul Besing wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Order the ones from Lancair. I think the price is close, and they
are
> > > very, very nice quality. Worth the $100 for the pair in my opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi All,
A friend told me about a great way for me to have a set of ANR
headsets for $169 !!
There is a kit out which enables you to convert your regular run of the mill
headsets to ANR, provided you are handy with a soldering iron and like to
tinker.....and even if you can't/won't solder, the supplier will do it all
and test the set and warranty the whole deal for you for only another $50.
I found the job fun to do and am real pleased with the
result.....all the benefits of the high dollar units, with just as good
performance, on a beer budget.
Top quality components and very good illustrated manual are provided.
A fellow at the 800 number, Michael, even walked me through some detail for
me 'cause my headsets had + and - reversed.
I have no connection nor association with the outfit, just found great
value for RV guys who like goodies at a great price.
They are:
Headsets Inc. in Amarillo Texas at 1-800-876-3374 or
email orders(at)headsetsinc.com
Austin
sanding out raindrops from freshly painted flaps....sob....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO360A1B6 Oil cooler flow question |
Anyone tell me which oil port on the accessory case is "in" to the engine
from the oil cooler and which is "out" from the engine to the the oil cooler?
It wasn't obvious from the overhaul manual.
Thanks in advance,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR Headsets |
These do make some great ANR headsets, i've tried a friend's pair and
they work quite well (retrofitted to a DC 10-30). Unfortunately I
didn't include them in the test I did for an article I wrote a little
while ago comparing ANR headsets.
If you'd like to read it, you can find the article at:
http://www.b4.ca/raa_85/story/ANRHeadsets/index.htm
or
http://www.vansairforce.org/misc/headsets/
Note that Lightspeed sells reconditioned QFR model headsets for
something like $220 US, which is close to the cost of having Headsets
Inc. retrofit your headset for you. You'd never know that they weren't
brand new...
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
Austin wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> A friend told me about a great way for me to have a set of ANR
> headsets for $169 !!
> There is a kit out which enables you to convert your regular run of the mill
> headsets to ANR, provided you are handy with a soldering iron and like to
> tinker.....and even if you can't/won't solder, the supplier will do it all
> and test the set and warranty the whole deal for you for only another $50.
> I found the job fun to do and am real pleased with the
> result.....all the benefits of the high dollar units, with just as good
> performance, on a beer budget.
> Top quality components and very good illustrated manual are provided.
> A fellow at the 800 number, Michael, even walked me through some detail for
> me 'cause my headsets had + and - reversed.
> I have no connection nor association with the outfit, just found great
> value for RV guys who like goodies at a great price.
> They are:
> Headsets Inc. in Amarillo Texas at 1-800-876-3374 or
> email orders(at)headsetsinc.com
> Austin
> sanding out raindrops from freshly painted flaps....sob....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alum Eyeball Vents 1 @1/4 '' |
I'll raise it a buck
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> How much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Twist in the wings |
Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper incidence
angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is that
this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing root.
There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So where
should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway, or
the wing tips? Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR Headsets |
They also have a website. WWW.HEADSETSINC.COM
Vince
>From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets
>Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:15:04 -0700
>
>
>Hi All,
> A friend told me about a great way for me to have a set of ANR
>headsets for $169 !!
>There is a kit out which enables you to convert your regular run of the
>mill
>headsets to ANR, provided you are handy with a soldering iron and like to
>tinker.....and even if you can't/won't solder, the supplier will do it all
>and test the set and warranty the whole deal for you for only another $50.
> I found the job fun to do and am real pleased with the
>result.....all the benefits of the high dollar units, with just as good
>performance, on a beer budget.
> Top quality components and very good illustrated manual are
>provided.
>A fellow at the 800 number, Michael, even walked me through some detail for
>me 'cause my headsets had + and - reversed.
> I have no connection nor association with the outfit, just found great
>value for RV guys who like goodies at a great price.
>They are:
> Headsets Inc. in Amarillo Texas at 1-800-876-3374 or
>email orders(at)headsetsinc.com
>Austin
>sanding out raindrops from freshly painted flaps....sob....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Considering the moment arm at the wingtip I would set my incidence angle by
measuring at the tip.
Gary Zilik
Quoting "VanArtsdalen, Scott" :
>
>
> Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper
> incidence
> angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is
> that
> this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing
> root.
> There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So
> where
> should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway,
> or
> the wing tips? Thanks!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
Search the archives on this one. Quite a few factors to consider.
I posted this same question a couple of years ago.
Finn
"VanArtsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper incidence
> angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is that
> this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing root.
> There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So where
> should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway, or
> the wing tips? Thanks!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
I'm not an aerodyamicist, and barely know how to type, but my guess
would be at 50% span (which happens to be the MAC).
Just another opinion, worth what you paid for it.
Laird
SoCal
>
>Considering the moment arm at the wingtip I would set my incidence angle by
>measuring at the tip.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>Quoting "VanArtsdalen, Scott" :
>
>>
>>
>> Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper
>> incidence
>> angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is
>> that
>> this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing
>> root.
>> There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So
>> where
>> should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway,
>> or
>> the wing tips? Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
In a message dated 5/7/02 2:41:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper incidence
angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is that
this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing root.
There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So where
should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway, or
the wing tips? Thanks! >>
Bill Benedict posted the following information several years ago:
>I got the wings on, ready to drill the rear spar attach points. (RV-4)
>With the rear spar on wing lined up perfectly with spar carry through
>(vertically) it came out to 1 deg incidence, as close as I can tell. If
>I move the wing up approximately 1/4 inch to meet the 1/2 deg. +
>incidence, the 5/16 hole I will drill will not have the required 5/8"
>edge clearance. My question is this: If I leave it centered and drill
>it so there is no question about the edge tolerance, can I adjust the
>extra 1/2 deg. of positive incidence out with the tail? If I leave it 1
>deg. positive, like it is, how will that affect the flying
>characteristics? Is it something that will need to be adjusted? Thanks
>for any help, I am going to drill them tomorrow. Also, measuring from
>wingtip to common point on fuselage, one wing is 3/8" farther than the
>other. I don't know what that equates to in degrees of sweep, but does
>one of you experts out there know if this is something to be concerned
>about? Boy, an 1/8" out, here or there really adds up when you need to
>measure for something like this.
>
Mike, You need to maintain the edge distance. Go ahead and set the edge
distance, check for the same distance from the tips to a common point on
the fuselage and that the leading edges of both wings are in a straight line
(ie not forward swept) and drill. Then set the Horizontal Stabalizer with
0.5 degree incidence. The fuselage may be flying downhill all the time,
but that is all. The RV-6/6A use a 1 degree incidence with the same wing
span, same wing area and same fuse length (almost). When checking
incidence, don't use just one area on the wing. Check several places along
the span of the wing. Even though it is built with no twist, there will be
a certain amount of wave in the wing. Probably the most effective area on
the wing for roll moment is about 2/3 of the span out from the fuselage. I
would give this area a little more credit when setting the incidence. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
Hopefully your wings are both twisted so the angle of attack is less at the
wing tips. How much of a twist do your have? Being a math person, I might
vote for using the mid-span as this will "average" out the twist. Hopefully
then the wing tip is about the same.
"Aerodynamic twist is defined as "the angle between the zero-lift angle of
an airfoil and the zero-lift angle of the root airfoil." In essence, this
means that the airfoil of the wing would actually change shape as it moved
farther away from the fuselage. Typically the zero-lift line is rotated
downward toward the wing tips, similar to geometric twist.
Regardless of whether you are talking about geometric or aerodynamic twist,
the purpose is the same. Twist is applied to wings so that the outboard
section of the wing does not stall first. When an aircraft is pitching nose
up and increasing its angle of attack, the airflow over the wing eventually
reaches a point where it becomes turbulent, causing a loss in lift. By
twisting the outboard portion of the wing down, the stall is delayed in that
area, simply because the angle of attack is lower in that region. Why is the
outboard portion of the wing so important? It is because that is where the
ailerons are located. By maintaining lift on the outboard portion of the
wing, the pilot is still able to maintain roll control of the aircraft in
the event of a stall. -
http://www.aerospaceweb.org/aircraft/question/dynamics/q0055.shtml"
But I would phone Van's for a better educated answer.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Twist in the wings
Considering the moment arm at the wingtip I would set my incidence angle by
measuring at the tip.
Gary Zilik
Quoting "VanArtsdalen, Scott" :
>
>
> Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper
> incidence
> angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is
> that
> this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing
> root.
> There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So
> where
> should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway,
> or
> the wing tips? Thanks!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
Alodine comes in liquid and solid form. Mix the solid (powder) in water, it
is much cheaper than the liquid form.
Bill
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | H2AD alternator mount question? |
Does the alternator use a standard mounting bracket on
the H2AD engine?
Dan DeNeal
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
To consider, Alodine is a corrosive etching agent. I used it where I could
thouroly rise clean. Using it on a finished aircraft, well maybe it won't
cause problems but I couldn't bring myself to chance leaving active Alodine
rinsed into seems and joints. I used scotch bright and a DA sander to rough
before priming. seems to have worked just fine.
Mike RV4
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Lueder [mailto:blueder@superior-air-parts.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: paint prep
As a former Tech Rep for Superflite, I found using a sponge to keep the
surface wet works very well and there is no question about good penetration
with the Alodine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Duckett [mailto:perfeng(at)3rivers.net]
Subject: RV-List: paint prep
To answer several questions regarding Alodine and etching solutions,
I'll just jump in.
As one of the guys pointed out, there are several tapes out there that
will really give you a good idea of just what is involved and what is
the minimum needed ( equipment and product wise) to produce a quality
and long lasting job.
One of the questions was, How do you keep large surfaces wet during the
etch time? I don't know about everyone but, we use a weed sprayer set
on a very fine mist. We use the same for alodining because it too has
to stay wet for several minutes. We also use a pressure washer to
ensure that all the product is rinsed off prior to the substraint being
applied.
One thing to consider is your sheetmetal is alcad, very soft, very pure
aluminum on the surface. With the many systems out there now that work
well over bare metal (etching primers, bonding epoxies and such)
depending on the system that your going to apply, you may not need to
alodine or etch at all.
With mixing to recommended ratio, generally a little over a pint of
Alodine will do a whole aircraft exterior.
For what it's worth...hope this helps.
Jim Duckett, RV-7A
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
Cy,
The washout (geometric twist) you describe is pretty important in
some designs, but it is not an issue with constant chord wings with
fairly low aspect ratio (i.e. RV-3, 4, 6, 7 and 8). The airflow
knows the aircraft is coming, as it will definitely be going much
less than the speed of sound. So, you get some upwash ahead of the
wing that tends to increase the local angle of attack. Turns out you
get a lot more upwash on the inboard wing sections than you do on the
outboard ones, so the inboard wing will have a higher local angle of
attack, and will stall first, even though there is no washout.
Now, if you've got tapered wings, or a higher aspect ratio, washout
can become important. I'm not qualified to say at what taper ratio
vs aspect ratio combinations washout becomes necessary.
Scott - I would tend to agree with most of the respondents - the
outboard wing sections are the most important ones when setting the
wing incidence. But, you want to measure in several places to get a
good feel for the average of the outboard wing, rather than relying
on one location, which might differ quite a bit from the rest of the
wing.
Kevin Horton
>
>Hopefully your wings are both twisted so the angle of attack is less at the
>wing tips. How much of a twist do your have? Being a math person, I might
>vote for using the mid-span as this will "average" out the twist. Hopefully
>then the wing tip is about the same.
>
>
>"Aerodynamic twist is defined as "the angle between the zero-lift angle of
>an airfoil and the zero-lift angle of the root airfoil." In essence, this
>means that the airfoil of the wing would actually change shape as it moved
>farther away from the fuselage. Typically the zero-lift line is rotated
>downward toward the wing tips, similar to geometric twist.
>
>Regardless of whether you are talking about geometric or aerodynamic twist,
>the purpose is the same. Twist is applied to wings so that the outboard
>section of the wing does not stall first. When an aircraft is pitching nose
>up and increasing its angle of attack, the airflow over the wing eventually
>reaches a point where it becomes turbulent, causing a loss in lift. By
>twisting the outboard portion of the wing down, the stall is delayed in that
>area, simply because the angle of attack is lower in that region. Why is the
>outboard portion of the wing so important? It is because that is where the
>ailerons are located. By maintaining lift on the outboard portion of the
>wing, the pilot is still able to maintain roll control of the aircraft in
>the event of a stall. -
>http://www.aerospaceweb.org/aircraft/question/dynamics/q0055.shtml"
>
>
>But I would phone Van's for a better educated answer.
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Twist in the wings
>
>
>Considering the moment arm at the wingtip I would set my incidence angle by
>measuring at the tip.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>Quoting "VanArtsdalen, Scott" :
>
>>
>>
>> Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper
>> incidence
>> angle at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is
>> that
>> this angle of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing
>> root.
>> There appears to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So
>> where
>> should I do the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway,
>> or
>> the wing tips? Thanks!
> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffery Lorimor <jlorimor(at)willinet.net> |
Group-
The Boone, Iowa bunch is going to have an RV (& Short-Wing-Piper) day. If
you're too far east for Van's flyin on June 15, come to Boone instead.
If you've been here before you know it'll be pretty informal...just look
at, and talk about, RV's for the day. No formal program planned at this
time. We have Cleaveland Tool here in Boone, a -7 and a couple of -6's
under construction, and three -6's flying. Plus Lyle Hefel usually shows
up with his fantastic creations (no guarantees though). And lots of
other little tail draggers to peruse like Champs, Cessna 140's, etc.
Since we have some Super Cubs, J-3's, and Tripacers around here, we've
invited the short wing guys to join us. Keep your eyeballs outside the
canopy upon arrival. Those slow guys will be so jealous!!!
Donuts and coffee will be waiting for you in the morning, lunch at noon for
a donation, and we promise good weather. See ya Saturday, June 15.
Jeff & Peg Lorimor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pearlman <jsp(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems! |
> I am thinking of getting the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the RV6A. I am
> working on a quickbuild kit. Please comment on the pluses and minuses.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel/oil hoses help |
I have completed assembling my fuel and oil hoses. I have purchased the
fireshield and the clamps for the fireshield. Where can I get them pressure
tested and the clamps installed? I called the local Parker Hannifin store
and they were clueless.... They had no idea what fireshield was, they were
not familiar with the clamps, and they had to send them out for the pressure
test.
I live in SE Michigan, does anyone have the tool to clamp them that I could
borrow or know where I can get them finished up?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 wiring almost done, prop arrived yesterday!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
A friend would like me to post the fact that his RV-4 is for sale. It's a
very nice airplane, low time (280 hrs), 160 hp with CS prop. Details are at
the MN Wing website:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id26.htm
Thanks
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD alternator mount question? |
>
> Does the alternator use a standard mounting bracket on
> the H2AD engine?
Yes, it does.
Bob Hall, RV-6
Colorado Springs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel/oil hoses help |
Send them to Varga Enterprises. www.vargaair.com Money well spent.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8292W(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel/oil hoses help
>
> I have completed assembling my fuel and oil hoses. I have purchased the
> fireshield and the clamps for the fireshield. Where can I get them
pressure
> tested and the clamps installed? I called the local Parker Hannifin store
> and they were clueless.... They had no idea what fireshield was, they
were
> not familiar with the clamps, and they had to send them out for the
pressure
> test.
>
> I live in SE Michigan, does anyone have the tool to clamp them that I
could
> borrow or know where I can get them finished up?
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 wiring almost done, prop arrived yesterday!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Pipe problems! |
Personally, I like the KISS principle after having many "ideas" on what I
would do when I built my airplane. What I planned to have and what I ended
up with are two way different things. Personally, I don't really care to
fly longer than 3 1/12 hours. It's nice to get out and see a new airport
out in the middle of nowhere, and have a nice old man who has been serving
fuel there for the last 50 years take care of you and share a story or two.
If you are doing some long over water stuff or really remote flying, ok, but
it's just more to do, less baggage to carry, more things to check, and more
things to fail.
Understand this is only my opinion. Yours or others milage may vary!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "pearlman" <jsp(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems!
>
> > I am thinking of getting the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the RV6A.
I am
> > working on a quickbuild kit. Please comment on the pluses and minuses.
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Wingtip Fuel Tanks |
I don't know how the subject was exhaust, but here it is again...
> Personally, I like the KISS principle after having many "ideas" on what I
> would do when I built my airplane. What I planned to have and what I
ended
> up with are two way different things. Personally, I don't really care to
> fly longer than 3 1/12 hours. It's nice to get out and see a new airport
> out in the middle of nowhere, and have a nice old man who has been serving
> fuel there for the last 50 years take care of you and share a story or
two.
> If you are doing some long over water stuff or really remote flying, ok,
but
> it's just more to do, less baggage to carry, more things to check, and
more
> things to fail.
>
> Understand this is only my opinion. Yours or others milage may vary!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "pearlman" <jsp(at)sprintmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems!
>
>
> >
> > > I am thinking of getting the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the
RV6A.
> I am
> > > working on a quickbuild kit. Please comment on the pluses and
minuses.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Main Gear Shimmy Question |
Hi All,
I'm building an RV3 and after reading several things from the list, I'm
wondering if anyone has experienced increased main gear leg shimmy for
the following reason:
1) I plan to not install the wood dampeners, initially at least, to see
if they are really needed but am interested in starting out with better
tires than Van's std.
2) I've read good things about Dressers Condor tires, Michelin tubes,
and their recaps on the list. I wonder though if their longer life is
due to their being somewhat heavier than Van's standard issue.
3) I've also been warned from a couple of sources that heavier tires
result in significantly more gear leg shimmy.
Has anyone experienced increased gear leg shimmy from better (heavier)
tires from Dresser and does this make including wood dampeners
necessary?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 fuselage
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Main Gear Shimmy Question |
For the RV-3, balance the wheel pants.
The harmonic induced wheel shimmy is caused by the aft CG of the standard
wheel pants. Just glue enough weight in the nose of the wheel pant so it
balances at the axle. (I used about a 1/4 pound of lead shot and epoxy for
each wheel pant.)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 50
PS It worked last century. It might not work this century. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
05/08/2002 07:35:26 AM
I'm no aerospace engineer, but I slept at a Holiday Inn last night.
Seriously, I'd call Vans first. Second, I believe it depends if you have
a "washout" or "wash in" situation. In my years of aircraft modeling, I
learned to always avoid "wash in" as it creates a dangerous tip stall
situation. Wash In is when the tip of the wing has a higher angle of
attack than the root .... thus causing the tip to stall first (assuming no
flaps deployed). When the Tip stalls, the airplane makes a quick and
deadly spiral in the direction of the stalled tip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Gear Shimmy Question |
My experience is considerably less shimmy with the heavier tires.
Yes, the heavier tires definitely lasts much, much longer. 25 hours on
original tires, 225 hours and most treads remains on Condor retreads. Although
the first 25 hours included a lot of taxiing and heavy breaking.
Finn
"Richard D. Fogerson" wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> I'm building an RV3 and after reading several things from the list, I'm
> wondering if anyone has experienced increased main gear leg shimmy for
> the following reason:
>
> 1) I plan to not install the wood dampeners, initially at least, to see
> if they are really needed but am interested in starting out with better
> tires than Van's std.
>
> 2) I've read good things about Dressers Condor tires, Michelin tubes,
> and their recaps on the list. I wonder though if their longer life is
> due to their being somewhat heavier than Van's standard issue.
>
> 3) I've also been warned from a couple of sources that heavier tires
> result in significantly more gear leg shimmy.
>
> Has anyone experienced increased gear leg shimmy from better (heavier)
> tires from Dresser and does this make including wood dampeners
> necessary?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 fuselage
> Boise, ID
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Gear Shimmy Question |
Not true in all cases. I had severe shimmy without the wheel pants. Handled
with wood/glass wrap. Didn't notice any increased shimmy after finally mounting
wheel pants.
Finn
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> For the RV-3, balance the wheel pants.
>
> The harmonic induced wheel shimmy is caused by the aft CG of the standard
> wheel pants. Just glue enough weight in the nose of the wheel pant so it
> balances at the axle. (I used about a 1/4 pound of lead shot and epoxy for
> each wheel pant.)
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 sn 50
> PS It worked last century. It might not work this century. :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Main Gear Shimmy Question |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Quoting "Richard D. Fogerson" :
>
>
> Hi All,
> I'm building an RV3 and after reading several things from the list,
> I'm
> wondering if anyone has experienced increased main gear leg shimmy for
> the following reason:
>
> 1) I plan to not install the wood dampeners, initially at least, to
> see
> if they are really needed but am interested in starting out with
> better
> tires than Van's std.
I can't comment on the wood dampeners as I have never flown in an RV that has
them. As for Van's standard issue tires it seems they are shipping a higher
quality tire with the michelin tubes in todays finish kits.
>
> 2) I've read good things about Dressers Condor tires, Michelin tubes,
> and their recaps on the list. I wonder though if their longer life is
> due to their being somewhat heavier than Van's standard issue.
I don't know if weight has anything to do with it but rubber hardness does. The
condors and recaps I have run have a harder rubber compound and much more tread
depth.
>
> 3) I've also been warned from a couple of sources that heavier tires
> result in significantly more gear leg shimmy.
>
> Has anyone experienced increased gear leg shimmy from better (heavier)
> tires from Dresser and does this make including wood dampeners
> necessary?
My gear leg shimmy has virtually gone away with with the installation of better
tires. They may weight more but they shimmy less. I also run 42 psi in the mains
which would have caused the original aero-trainers to shake the airframe apart.
Van's birds have no gear leg stiffners so I see no need for ours to have them
but that is only my opinion.
>
> Thanks,
Your Welcome
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 Exhaust Pipe problems! |
+ They will out fly your bladder
- 48 more pounds at the wing tips
- THE COST
>
> > I am thinking of getting the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the
> RV6A. I am
> > working on a quickbuild kit. Please comment on the pluses and
> minuses.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
I just wanted to thank everyone for all the wonderful e-mail! I have tried to
respond to all of them, but in case I missed you.....THANKS!!
I have posted some new pictures first flight to my site, sorry about the quality...
I should have some better ones soon, as well as a video...
pix: http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Main Gear Shimmy Question |
If you are going to add the gear leg stiffeners, make sure you have the six
bolt engine mount.
The gear leg stiffeners don't stop the shimmy, it just controls the shimmy.
All of the shimmy load is transferred into the engine mount. On the original
four bolt engine mount, the upper cross tube would break at the upper end of
the gear leg tube on the side opposite the diagonal tube attachment. Van
added a bolt at each corner of the upper gear leg tube to transfer this load
into the firewall (and added structure to the main spar).
Van has never approved it (he probably doesn't even know about it), but I
added an additional diagonal tube, making a cross of the tubes supporting the
upper ends of the gear leg tubes.
The original "fix" was to run 18 to 22 pounds of tire pressure. This let the
tire footprint dampen the shimmy. On my RV-3, 23 psi was were the shimmy
started. After balancing the wheel pant, I used 30 psi tire pressure. Above
30 psi, the side of the tire was lifting off the ground (indicating an
overinflated condition for the weight of the aircraft).
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 50
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
10:48:32 AM
Hey Gang,
Check out these fuel filters, hmmmmmmmmm
K&N products are top notch in my book. BTW, theres some good reading on
this site.
http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I have these in my 6A. They are nice filters and they can be ordered with AN6
fittings. The downside is they cost $60 each. Next time I'll go with some sort
of clear plastic filter at 1/5 the cost.
Gary
Quoting Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com:
>
>
> Hey Gang,
>
> Check out these fuel filters, hmmmmmmmmm
>
> K&N products are top notch in my book. BTW, theres some good reading
> on
> this site.
>
> http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
I put some Earl's filters in my -8A...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish8.htm
They cost $30 each and were very low profile, so they fit in the wing
root perfectly...
http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/fuel-oil-filters.html
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - 2.9 hrs
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zilik
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filters
I have these in my 6A. They are nice filters and they can be ordered
with AN6 fittings. The downside is they cost $60 each. Next time I'll go
with some sort of clear plastic filter at 1/5 the cost.
Gary
Quoting Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com:
>
>
> Hey Gang,
>
> Check out these fuel filters, hmmmmmmmmm
>
> K&N products are top notch in my book. BTW, theres some good reading
> on this site.
>
> http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm
>
> Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Steve" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
>
> + They will out fly your bladder
PRT (pilot relief tube)
> - 48 more pounds at the wing tips
better span loading
> - THE COST
make your own (it's easy)
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > > I am thinking of getting the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the
> > RV6A. I am
> > > working on a quickbuild kit. Please comment on the pluses and
> > minuses.
>
wingtip tanks
-- RV-List message posted by:
lm4(at)juno.com
+ They will out fly your
bladder
PRT (pilot relief tube)
- 48 more pounds at the wing
tips
better span loading
- THE COST
make your own (it's easy)
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
pearlman jsp(at)sprintmail.com writes:
-- RV-List message posted
by: pearlman jsp(at)sprintmail.com
I am thinking of getting
the wing tip tanks that Van sells for the
RV6A. I am
working on a quickbuild
kit. Please comment on the pluses and
minuses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 05/07/2002 8:04:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com writes:
> Check that routing. Less than 100% of the oil pumped through the engine goes
> through the cooler, sometimes very little. To filter 100% of the oil, you
> must use a manifold which taps the accessory housing at the thermostatic
> bypass valve ports. I believe these are available from Spruce.
> mike
>
Not if you don't have a vernatherm :-) ... even so, I retained my high
pressure screen for those times the filter bypass opened with cold, thick oil
going through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bakersfield Fly-In June 1st. |
PUT THIS ON YOUR CALENDAR
Bakersfield EAA 71 annual BBQ Fly-In @ (L45) will be on June 1st, 2002
All food will be catered by the Getaway Cafe & the Outback Restaurant
In addition to all of the awesome experimental aircraft on display,
there will be a custom hot rod and motorcycle display
Live music all day long
Info: call John Harmon (611) 836-1028 or e-mail hr2pilot(at)aol.com
or
Tim Barnes (661) 393-4100 or e-mail EAABKFD71(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters |
02:09:57 PM
Do you think they would fit in your wing root? I assume your filters are
before the fuel pump? Did you opt not to put in a gascolator. I'm leaning
that way. I've got a high pressure system and just want to reduce potential
points of failure. I'd really like to not have anything other than a fuel
selector in the cockpit.
Eric
Gary Zilik (at)matronics.com on 05/08/2002 11:18:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filters
I have these in my 6A. They are nice filters and they can be ordered with
AN6
fittings. The downside is they cost $60 each. Next time I'll go with some
sort
of clear plastic filter at 1/5 the cost.
Gary
Quoting Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com:
>
>
> Hey Gang,
>
> Check out these fuel filters, hmmmmmmmmm
>
> K&N products are top notch in my book. BTW, theres some good reading
> on
> this site.
>
> http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm
>
> Eric
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
rv8list , rv-list
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks to all! |
You didn't have the classic final picture of the RV grin. congratulations
and nice work.
scot
>
>I just wanted to thank everyone for all the wonderful e-mail! I have
>tried to respond to all of them, but in case I missed you.....THANKS!!
>
>I have posted some new pictures first flight to my site, sorry about the
>quality... I should have some better ones soon, as well as a video...
>
>pix: http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/index.htm
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A - N8WV
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks to all! |
Sure he did:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/ff5.jpg
(yes, it may be a "before" picture, and not an "after" picture, but the
smile looks genuine to me... 8-).
Those of us still building are jealous, Bill, congratulations...
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>
> You didn't have the classic final picture of the RV grin. congratulations
> and nice work.
>
> scot
>
>
>>
>>I just wanted to thank everyone for all the wonderful e-mail! I have
>>tried to respond to all of them, but in case I missed you.....THANKS!!
>>
>>I have posted some new pictures first flight to my site, sorry about the
>>quality... I should have some better ones soon, as well as a video...
>>
>>pix: http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/index.htm
>>
>>
>>-Bill VonDane
>>Colorado Springs, CO
>>RV-8A - N8WV
>>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroclassics oil coolers...going, going, gone soon... |
Mark and others: FWIW, in response to your post I grabbed the phone and
called Skip at Pacific Oil Cooler to order one of the Aeroclassic units at
the non PMA'd price. To make a long story short, Skip assured me that their
intention is to continue to sell to the experimental market at the $205 price
for the 9 row Aeroclassic and $185 for the 7 row unit barring inflationary
adjustments. BTW, as a heads up for guys going to Oshkosh he mentioned some
pretty interesting special prices there. Remember, this is just what I was
told, so don't crucify me if it turns out wrong.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Actually, that is an after picture...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thanks to all!
Sure he did:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flying/ff5.jpg
(yes, it may be a "before" picture, and not an "after" picture, but the
smile looks genuine to me... 8-).
Those of us still building are jealous, Bill, congratulations...
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters |
Which -part number did you use?
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> I put some Earl's filters in my -8A...
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish8.htm
>
> They cost $30 each and were very low profile, so they fit in the wing
> root perfectly...
>
> http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/fuel-oil-filters.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in the wings |
>
>
>In a message dated 5/7/02 2:41:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
>
><< Okay, I'm rigging the wings on my RV-4. I can get the proper incidence angle
at the tips (using the 2.8" spacer and level.) The problem is that this angle
of incidence isn't consistent along the wing to the wing root. There appears
to be some minor twist in the wing. Is this common? So where should I do
the measuring to set the incidence angle? The root, midway, or the wing tips?
Thanks! >>
>
Scott,
If you are are interested in checking into the affects of aspect ratio,
taper, sweep and twist further have a look at the program at this site
http://aero.stanford.edu/WingCalc.html
I believe the answer to your question lies in the distribution of lift
along the span of the wing and the rolling moment that it creates. If
you were to calculate this (rolling moment) and then find what the
distance would be to a spanwise center of lift point (to create the same
rolling moment) you would have your answer.
You didn't say how much twist you have but it is probably negligible.
1/8" is only 0.33 degrees
Plug this into the program and see what little affect it has. Note:
clicking on the graph changes the angle of attack. Low angles of attack
and lots of twist move the lift distrbution around a lot.
Even if you pick the wrong point to set your incidence, with the low
aspect ratio you should be ok.
Roger Embree
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroclassics oil coolers...going, going, gone soon... |
FYI - I purchased one of the 9-row Aeroclassics oil coolers and installed
in my RV6A Lycoming O-320 160HP plane and it cured a nagging oil temp
problem (caused likely by a used oil cooler that wasn't up to par) The
quality is first rate and the fact it has been STC'd doesn't surprise me. I
am a happy camper!
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters |
I tried to figure out how to install them in the wing root and was just not
smart enough. Since then I have seen pictures of filters installed in the wing
root and I think It could be done. Having the filters in the cabin is only a
problem when cleaning time comes since the tanks have to be run dry, drained
or nearly empty so fuel does not siphon into the cabin when the fuel line is
removed to clean the filters. Jacking the airplane up by one wing and servicing
the other wings filter with low tanks also works.
I have no gascolator.
Gary Zilik
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Do you think they would fit in your wing root? I assume your filters are
> before the fuel pump? Did you opt not to put in a gascolator. I'm leaning
> that way. I've got a high pressure system and just want to reduce potential
> points of failure. I'd really like to not have anything other than a fuel
> selector in the cockpit.
>
> Eric
>
> Gary Zilik (at)matronics.com on 05/08/2002 11:18:35 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Filters
>
>
> I have these in my 6A. They are nice filters and they can be ordered with
> AN6
> fittings. The downside is they cost $60 each. Next time I'll go with some
> sort
> of clear plastic filter at 1/5 the cost.
>
> Gary
>
> Quoting Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com:
>
> >
> >
> > Hey Gang,
> >
> > Check out these fuel filters, hmmmmmmmmm
> >
> > K&N products are top notch in my book. BTW, theres some good reading
> > on
> > this site.
> >
> > http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm
> >
> > Eric
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust system woes |
I hate to advocate spending money on something as boring as an exhaust
system, but you have a very dangerous situation. All I can say is support
it in as many places as evenly as possible with flexible mounts connected to
the engine not the airframe.
But. I purchased my RV-4 with about 400 hrs on it. The log book had a
number of entries of the builder welding the exhaust only to have it crack
again 50 hrs later. I think he welded it about 3 times, then tried silver
soldering it. Anyway. About 200 hours into it he must have gotten fed up
with the problem and the logbook shows an entry for installation of a
Vetterman 4 header exhaust. The plane has close to 700 hours on it now,
knock on wood, and the exhaust has not been touched since.
Read the ntsb archives. Far too many planes have been brought down as a
result of exhaust problems. Engine failure, fire, structural failure and
carbon monoxide poisoning. Scary stuff.
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: oil coolers |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Ok guys, I stand corrected. It sounds like the right hand doesn't know
what the left hand is doing at Pacific Oil Coolers....I can't remember
the name of the guy I talked to but I'm absolutely certain that he told
me last week--and again on Monday when I called back to order--that there
were only a few non-PMA'd units left in stock and after that they would
be available only at the much higher PMA'd price. Sorry for spreading
misinformation but I was just passing along what I was told. Still a
good deal, just not urgent to get your order in....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit....
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "SKID SAURENMAN" <pacificoilcooler(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:39:01 -0700
Subject: Re: oil coolers
Dear Mark,
I was informed by another customer of mine that you believed that oil
cooler
prices was going to go up on our aero-classic oil coolers. I wanted to
inform you that infact they are going to stay the same low price for the
experimental market as they have been for the last year and we do not
expect
to see any changes in this pricing in the near future. If you have any
questions regarding this please do not hesitate to contact me.
Sincerely Skid Saurenman
Pacific Oil Cooler Service inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Trim Indicator Mounting RV-4 |
I would like to mount my MAC elevator trim indicator needle on the side console
behind the throttle quadrant - where the pilot and GIB can both see it, and no
instrument panel space is wasted.
The indicator would be looking UP, and therefore not in one of the recommended
orientations.
I cannot get through to the Ray Allen Company by e-mail, so before before I use
snail mail, has anyone mounted their indicator as I intend? And most important
did it work?
Thanks .. John Kent (Ireland, RV-4,#3254,finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Indicator Mounting RV-4 |
John,
I have a similar setup in my RV-6. I mounted the indicator in
between the two seats just under the aileron trim lever. It is not
lighted.
In normal operations it seems to be an acceptable place. Check the
trim before takeoff and away you go. In flight you don't care what
the indicator says.
There are two area where it is lacking:
1. Touch and gos - You really don't have time to look down while your
fast taxiing down the runway to set the trim. (Taildraggers seem to
require that you have your eyes outside a lot of the time ;-) I
usually just lean on the trim, count to 4 and push the throttle.
Trim is USUALLY close enough, but it did lead to some interesting
moments trying to figure out that 4 was the correct number.
2. Pre take off check at at night. Because it's not lit and in a dark
place, you have to get out the flashlight to check the indicator.
Since I seem to fly a lot at night, I ended up putting in a Photon
keychain light (see www.avweb.com) on the rollover bar as a map light
that ends up lighting up the indicator somewhat.
If I were to do it again (and I hope to...) I would go ahead and put
it in the panel where you can see it easily, although it was easy to
wire up done there.
Good luck with the RV. You'll love it.
Laird RV-6 485 hrs
Southern California, USA
>
>I would like to mount my MAC elevator trim indicator needle on the
>side console behind the throttle quadrant - where the pilot and GIB
>can both see it, and no instrument panel space is wasted.
> The indicator would be looking UP, and therefore not in one of the
>recommended orientations.
> I cannot get through to the Ray Allen Company by e-mail, so before
>before I use snail mail, has anyone mounted their indicator as I
>intend? And most important did it work?
>Thanks .. John Kent (Ireland, RV-4,#3254,finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Bob,
Could you please contact me off-list? I want to talk over some questions
about transition training.
Thanks.
Jim Bower
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com
or
jimbower(at)hotmail.com
or
jbower(at)cranems.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil coolers-Price is UP |
Well folks, here is the truth, as of 6pm EDST anyway. I'm at the point of
needing to purchase / install my oil cooler for my (I) 0360 / RV6 so I used
the RV List message this morning as a reminder to give Pacific Air Cooler a
call. I made that call late this afternoon was told that they are all out
of the "non-PMA'd" nine row Aero Classic coolers PN 8000074. The only ones
they have are the new PMA'd ones at $289 each, or I could go with the
Stewart Warner 10599 at $431.
I didn't have access at the time to Mark Naratil's note, so I came home,
pulled up the browser, found "Skid's" name at Pacific Oil Cooler, and called
them back. Wayne took the phone call, said that Skid was on another line,
but said that he was sure they had the lower priced units still available
for us experimental types, and put me on hold. He came back in a couple of
minutes, apologized and said that they were all out. Further, the
manufacturer is only making the PMA'd version and that's all that Pacific
Air Cooler will be selling. So the price is $289 and I ordered it.
Should have gotten there earlier I guess.
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
RV6 (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
hi guys,
i just read the grand canyon trip on doug reeves site. they had a description
of turbulance. how would those flying rv's scale the differant levels of
turbulance. as a piper warrior driver, i would like to know how differant is
the rv in turbulance compaired to a warrior?
what about it guys, care to share?
scott
tampa
getting ready for the big day
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>how differant
>is
>the rv in turbulance compaired to a warrior?
>what about it guys, care to share?
>scott
>tampa
>getting ready for the big day
>
>
I've had people argue with me about this, and it is hard to tell for sure
since you can't be in two planes at the same place at the same time.
That having been said, it is my opinion that the RV is the roughest
riding plane I have been in. It has the wing loading of a slow airplane
and the speed of a fast (normally higher wing loading) airplane. I don't
see any way it could be anything but rough riding.
I like some aerobatics and have pulled 6 g's in my RV a few times but the
RV is the only airplane I sometimes slow way down just because it is so
uncomfortable. Also, sometimes I slow down because I am afraid I will be
knocked silly from my head slamming against the canopy.
None of this is to criticize the RV and it is not often that the air is
really that rough; it is just a natural consequence of the particular
great choices Van made as a designer.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
It just busts on throughand ,wiggles around a little.Probably a good idea to
slow 10-20 Kt..and you'll still be going faster than the warrior.
Ollie---(97FL)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
I agree with Larry. When I was doing my test flying last summer here in
Arizona, I hit a thermal while going about 200 MPH. I smacked my head on
the canopy so hard that I actually looked up to see if it was broken. Also,
the stick grip came off in my hand because I was holding on to it so tight
when I was forced upward. Immediately the power came back, and for the rest
of the flight. The G-Meter showed almost 3 negative G's. Again, for the
trade off in performance, the wing loading is fine for me. It does become a
workout in turbulence, though.
I wouldn't change that airplane if I could though. I miss it very much
after flying a Cessna 140 around, believe me.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: turbulance
>
> I've had people argue with me about this, and it is hard to tell for sure
> since you can't be in two planes at the same place at the same time.
> That having been said, it is my opinion that the RV is the roughest
> riding plane I have been in. It has the wing loading of a slow airplane
> and the speed of a fast (normally higher wing loading) airplane. I don't
> see any way it could be anything but rough riding.
>
> I like some aerobatics and have pulled 6 g's in my RV a few times but the
> RV is the only airplane I sometimes slow way down just because it is so
> uncomfortable. Also, sometimes I slow down because I am afraid I will be
> knocked silly from my head slamming against the canopy.
>
> None of this is to criticize the RV and it is not often that the air is
> really that rough; it is just a natural consequence of the particular
> great choices Van made as a designer.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Raymond Wallace <rawmailman(at)yahoo.com> |
I will be spending about two weeks in Denton TX from about the 10th through the
22nd of June. If there are any RV pilots in the area who would like to show
off their RV or Project, I would be very interested in seeing them. I am currently
working mounting tail surfaces on my RV-4. Please contact me at rawmailman(at)yahoo.com.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Does the yellow and red arcs on the airspeed indicator mean nothing?
Ollie--RV6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Ten years ago when I was working in Yemen they were installing traffic lights in
the city of Sana'a. It was very clear that yellow ment "Go Faster" and that red
ment "Go even faster"
Gary
Quoting Ollie Washburn :
>
>
> Does the yellow and red arcs on the airspeed indicator mean nothing?
> Ollie--RV6-A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
hi ollie
i was just trying to find out what level of turbulance was considered
light,mod, heavy, severe in a rv as compaired to a warrior. what is light in
a warrior might be considered heavy in a rv. i was hoping for a more
discriptive answer as was on the trip report ( chop, you can drink coffee and
not spill it ) i can relate to that type of discription. for those who have
accumulated many flying hours in rvs, i would think they could explain it in
those terms. how is it flying yours in summer afternoon in central florida,
heavy, severe?
take care
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
Ray, you might want to check out Jay Pratt's place- he's about 20-25 miles
south of Denton at the Hicks Airport. He's got some RVs there as well as
some other owners- was just there on Tuesday. Doug Reeves is also based
there
-----Original Message-----
From: Raymond Wallace [mailto:rawmailman(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: Visiting Texas
I will be spending about two weeks in Denton TX from about the 10th through
the 22nd of June. If there are any RV pilots in the area who would like to
show off their RV or Project, I would be very interested in seeing them. I
am currently working mounting tail surfaces on my RV-4. Please contact me
at rawmailman(at)yahoo.com.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/9/2002 3:34:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
> I've had people argue with me about this, and it is hard to tell for sure
> since you can't be in two planes at the same place at the same time.
> That having been said, it is my opinion that the RV is the roughest
> riding plane I have been in. It has the wing loading of a slow airplane
> and the speed of a fast (normally higher wing loading) airplane. I don't
> see any way it could be anything but rough riding.
>
> I like some aerobatics and have pulled 6 g's in my RV a few times but the
> RV is the only airplane I sometimes slow way down just because it is so
> uncomfortable. Also, sometimes I slow down because I am afraid I will be
> knocked silly from my head slamming against the canopy.
>
> None of this is to criticize the RV and it is not often that the air is
> really that rough; it is just a natural consequence of the particular
> great choices Van made as a designer.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
>
This is true but you do have a comfort level of knowing that your wings will
not fall off!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
| Subject: | Test Flight Data |
Hi All...
I did some more flyig this morning, and I also added a new page to my web for test
flight data... There's not much up there yet, but that's where I'll be posting
the information for each flight...
This morning the aircraft T/O weight was 1382 lbs and the density altitude was
just above 6000'. I made a normal takeoff and stabilized my climb at 110 mph
and about 1000 fpm. I then climbed to 9500' for some speed tests... The most
I could get was 2450 RPM and 140 mph indicated (160 mph ground speed on the GPS).
I do not have any gear leg fairings or wheel pants installed yet... I then
descended to the pattern for some T&G's... I made a total of 5 landings and
taxied back... The plane will float for a long time if I come in at 80 mph
on final... Next time out I will try some 70 - 75 mph final approaches...
-Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
A new AD just came out yesterday on the HC- and Y- series Hartzell props:
http://www.aopa.org/members/files/airdirect/2002/20020908ad.txt
I'm pretty sure this affects at least some of the Hartzell propeller models
that Van's sells.
I'm still figuring out which prop I want to hang off a 200hp IO-360 for my
RV-7. I really like the McCauley that was on the M20J...seemed quieter than
the Hartzell (could be the round tips vs. square?) and there were no upper
RPM caution ranges...although that also may be due to the prop flange
conversion to -A3B6, I guess.
Out of curiosity, has anybody out there converted an -A1B6 to -A3B6?
I guess it's time to look back through the archives, but if anybody wants to
give me some advice on which prop to hang, I'm all ears.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (wings)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I remember riding in some pretty rough turbulance in my Dad's old 182A. Never
thought much of it until recently I got the chance to look in side one of
Cessna's wings. Granted it was a 172 and not a 182 and it has struts bracing the
wing but it sure gives you a warm fuzzy feeling about the RV4/6/8 wings. There
aint nothing inside those 172 wings. The RV's rear spar is beefier than the
172's main spar!
I do know that my 6A has a harsh ride in turb, but then it is a sport plane and
it's supposed to ride that way.
Gary
>
>
> This is true but you do have a comfort level of knowing that your wings
> will
> not fall off!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Suzuki Alternator Question |
01:36:13 PM
Hey Gang, I'm sure one of you has the answer to this, so I'm posting for a
friend. This is going on an IO-540. Might be good info for the archives.
Isn't there an AC Spruce bracket that fits this alternator?
Thanks in advance
Eric
Hi all,
Still struggling with this alternator thing. Here is what I have found for
your own reference.
First of all, I needed to put up $35 for a core charge on all the
alternators but vans.
I ordered the 35 amp unit from vans for $165. The parts arrived and had
already been installed and were covered with corrosion so I sent them back.
These 1978 Honda civic alternators have quite a bad reputation for not
lasting more than a couple of hundred hours. They are cheap $21 at the auto
store, but seems like too much trouble changing alternators every year.
BTW,
they need and external regulator $40.
I spoke with the alternator guy at vans about this stuff. He told me to do
as he had, and get a 60 amp unit from a 1989 Camry. I bought one for $99
and
it came with a lifetime guarantee. It was a the same size as the Honda,
but
heavier and built better. It had an internal regulator set to 14.8 V, and
the test sheet showed it belted out 83 amps!
Still not being happy, I did some more research and came up with a 1989
Suzuki Samurai alternator (Nippon Denso) for $109. Now this thing is a
little jewel (see pic). It is tiny, light weight and belts out an
impressive
55 amps. Internally regulated to 14.6 V. Only problem is it won't fit the
Vans bracket (see pic 2). I will be using this style alternator. Any of
you
guys know of the different part number that has a different mounting ears
cast into the alternator? I saw a picture of one with a single large lug
rather than the two small lugs you see in the picture.
Both of the latter units are designed for high speed ops and do not need to
have a pulley change according to the guy at vans. If you have any secrets
on alternators please post them here for the F1 tips list.
Thanks
Bob Gross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Suzuki Alternator Question |
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey Gang, I'm sure one of you has the answer to this, so I'm posting for a
> friend. This is going on an IO-540. Might be good info for the archives.
> Isn't there an AC Spruce bracket that fits this alternator?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Eric
>
> Hi all,
>
> Still struggling with this alternator thing. Here is what I have found for
> your own reference.
>
> First of all, I needed to put up $35 for a core charge on all the
> alternators but vans.
>
> I ordered the 35 amp unit from vans for $165. The parts arrived and had
> already been installed and were covered with corrosion so I sent them back.
> These 1978 Honda civic alternators have quite a bad reputation for not
> lasting more than a couple of hundred hours. They are cheap $21 at the auto
> store, but seems like too much trouble changing alternators every year.
> BTW,
> they need and external regulator $40.
>
> I spoke with the alternator guy at vans about this stuff. He told me to do
> as he had, and get a 60 amp unit from a 1989 Camry. I bought one for $99
> and
> it came with a lifetime guarantee. It was a the same size as the Honda,
> but
> heavier and built better. It had an internal regulator set to 14.8 V, and
> the test sheet showed it belted out 83 amps!
>
> Still not being happy, I did some more research and came up with a 1989
> Suzuki Samurai alternator (Nippon Denso) for $109. Now this thing is a
> little jewel (see pic). It is tiny, light weight and belts out an
> impressive
> 55 amps. Internally regulated to 14.6 V. Only problem is it won't fit the
> Vans bracket (see pic 2). I will be using this style alternator. Any of
> you
> guys know of the different part number that has a different mounting ears
> cast into the alternator? I saw a picture of one with a single large lug
> rather than the two small lugs you see in the picture.
>
> Both of the latter units are designed for high speed ops and do not need to
> have a pulley change according to the guy at vans. If you have any secrets
> on alternators please post them here for the F1 tips list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Gross
>
>
Eric and Bob
I have had one of those on my RV-6 for over 1000 hours and 13 year. Got it
at the junk yard for $45.00, still using internal regulator and have not
fried anything yet despite Bob Knockolls (sp) doom and gloom predictions. I did
have to make my own bracket, I used a solid chunk of aluminum and had
the guys at my work machine a bracket to fit the alternator. I can't remember
exactley now but belive I had it either 3/8" or 1/2" thick. If you know
someone handy with a welder you could also make it out of steel plate and
weld the legs on where needed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rod end bearing lubrication? |
As I dive into my first yearly Condition Inspection I'd like to know if
those who have gone before recommend lubricating all the rod end bearings in
any way. LPS-2? Boeshield? WD-40? Nothing at all? This would be a good one
for the archives also.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 154 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | altitude hold update |
Not much to say about it all folks as I'm still waiting on some parts from
Gretz and from the chip folks who sell the AD converter.
the circuit works well and the servo responds to it seemingly well, but it
has no pressure data so it just gets lost quickly and movs around alot.
So,
more later on that topic.
On the digital G-meter with audio output, I have almost gotten all the
parts, about half for free, and will start playing with them sometime in the
next few weeks.
Anybody know where I can buy 2.25" inst blank cases? I am going to try an
design the PCB to fit in one of these, but it may be a two level PCB.
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Scott--
Sorry,but i don't know how to explain it .We came back from Laleland today
in the heat of the day and yes we bounced around some but i never left the
seat or hit my head on the canopy.I would say it'sabout the same ride as
when we had the cardinal.I believe the reason some people are getting such a
rough ride is that the are not observing the yellow band on the airspeed
which is a real no-no in turbulance
btw our INDICATED airspeed was 170-175 mph
Cheers---Ollie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | EI dimmer wiring diagram |
My Electronic Instruments dimmer doesn't dim the background display
lights. They stay at full intensity. I need to check my wiring, but my
dimmer wiring instructions are hiding. Can someone check their
instructions and tell me what each of the four wires hooks to.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: oil coolers |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
FYI guys....the ongoing oil cooler price/availability saga....I think
Pacific Oil Cooler finally has it all straight now.....
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "SKID SAURENMAN" <pacificoilcooler(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:39:34 -0700
Subject: Re: oil coolers
Mark, Let me be clear here. Pacific Oil Cooler personnel are really
beginning to look like idiots. For this I am sorry but I do appreciate
you
effectively putting a mirror in front of us so we could see how stupid we
look. In moving forward I have cleared up the situation with Duane
Bentley
to ensure that he gets a oil cooler at the experimental price and have
meet
with all concerned here at Pacific to ensure that experimental customers
get
experimental pricing on these coolers. There may at times be a situation
when I do not have a non-PMA unit available and in this situation we are
going to honor and sell at the Experimental price even if we have to ship
a
PMA oil cooler. I hope this clears everything up. Once again thanks for
your
patience on this and I assure you that
we won't be revisiting this situation again with anybody else in the
future.
I hope that we haven't completely destroyed all credibility with you or
others here with our half fast circus act.
Sincerely Skid Saurenman
Pacific Oil Cooler Service inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight Data |
Bill,
I'm told that once the wheel pants and leg fairings are install there is a significant
speed improvement. We have finally taken the time to do ours.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly airport)
From: Bill VonDane<N8WV(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: vansairforce , rv8list ,
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Test Flight Data
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:41:11 -0700
-- RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane
Hi All...
I did some more flyig this morning, and I also added a new page to my web for test
flight data... There's not much up there yet, but that's where I'll be posting
the information for each flight...
This morning the aircraft T/O weight was 1382 lbs and the density altitude was
just above 6000'. I made a normal takeoff and stabilized my climb at 110 mph and
about 1000 fpm. I then climbed to 9500' for some speed tests... The most I
could get was 2450 RPM and 140 mph indicated (160 mph ground speed on the GPS).
I do not have any gear leg fairings or wheel pants installed yet... I then descended
to the pattern for some TG's... I made a total of 5 landings and taxied
back... The plane will float for a long time if I come in at 80 mph on final...
Next time out I will try some 70 - 75 mph final approaches...
-Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First engine start... |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Does your fuel gauge show 15 gallons/ side when full? I called E.I. about
> mine, and they said, "Oh, you must have an RV-6". It turns out that the SW
> senders are not that accurate toward the top of the scale with the angles of
> the sender bracket on the RV. They said there is nothing you can do about
> it. It was accurate at lower levels, though (below 15 gallons/side).
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (Sold)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
-------------------
What is happening with the S/W floats in the RV tanks is the float is
pinned against the top of the tank when the tank is nearly full due to
the dihedral of the wing. Once about four gallons is burned off, the
fuel level has dropped enough for the floats to "float".
I have found the S/W floats to be accurate at all points in their
travel, once the fuel level is low enough for them to travel! :-)
The S/W float with the EI gauge is a great combination and I find it to
be accurate within a gallon at each fill-up.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Pacific Oil Coolers - Experimental |
Folks,
One more clarification on the pricing of oil coolers from Pacific Oil
Coolers, which should correct the note I sent to the list Thursday night. I
received a e-mail note yesterday from Pacific Oil Coolers with an apology,
correcting the transaction that was made two days ago and reverting to the
lower price for my RV6:
"Our plan is to continue offering the lower, "Experimental", pricing on our
Aero-Classics oil coolers even though we may (at times) be selling a PMA'd
part. The goal is to retain our Experimental customer's business by holding
the price."
I thought I'd pass the note on and straighten the record here. It's not
every day that you get this kind of support.
Duane Bentley
RV6 (Finishing)
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing lubrication? |
Randy,
I don't believe you have received much comment on this publically but we use
LPS on the Bonanza on a regular basis. Seems to work quite well.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearing lubrication?
>Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:31:03 -0700
>
>
>As I dive into my first yearly Condition Inspection I'd like to know if
>those who have gone before recommend lubricating all the rod end bearings
>in
>any way. LPS-2? Boeshield? WD-40? Nothing at all? This would be a good one
>for the archives also.
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8 #80500, 154 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
Need some advice,
I just finished riveting my left aileron. When I look down the
trailing edge from end to end, I have
a slight bow about midway down the edge which is about 1/8-3/16 out of
alignment. There is no
twist at all. I can only assume that this was a result of only having a
single pipe clamp on my
trailing edge bender, which was set in the middle.
My question is, should I worry about this or is it just cosmetic?
The aileron looks great otherwise.
I have not riveted my right aileron yet but I can tell it has the same
bow as the left.
In search of the perfect plane,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I just finished riveting my left aileron. When I look down the
trailing >edge from end to end, I have a slight bow about midway down
the edge which >is about 1/8-3/16 out of alignment. There is no twist at
all. Should I >worry about this or is it just cosmetic?
Cosmetic. The airplane will fly just fine. One of the things you will
find as you are building and once you are flying are the things you will
see on other airplanes. Yikes. Sight down the trailing edge of other
airplanes. You may find that yours are pretty straight compared to some.
No one will notice yours except you. Well, actually, we ALL will have to
go have a look now that we know :>).
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight Data) |
Bill, and others,
The basic rule for calculating final approach speed is 1.3 X Vstall (CAS),
and adjust CAS to get IAS.
- If the RV-6 stalls at 50 mph CAS at a given wt, then final would be
flown at 50+15=65 IAS.
I had 1.3 hours dual with Mike in Oregon. He taught me to fly 80 MPH(?)
patterns, with basic philosophy which I like, that one should be able to
glide to a safe on-field landing if engine quits in the pattern or on final.
- Rationale was that the RV-6 has a low aspect ratio wing and has a
higher sink rate below 80. I'm not sure he worded it exactly that way, but
that was the implication.
Has anyone flight tested to find the "best glide speed" for an RV-6, i.e,
most fwd distance traveled per feet of altitude lost, at some given weight?
If it is less than 80 mph or kias, then that would seem to be a good pattern
speed for idle pattern & landing and should replace the "80 IAS is better if
the engine quits" thing.
Looking at the performance curves in the Van's "Info Pack" (next to last
page in my copy), the "Power Required Curve" for RV-6 shows minimum brake
horsepower required for level flt to occur at 80 to 85 mph (pretty flat in
that area), which may be the source of Mike's choice of 80 as a good power
off glide speed - makes sense to me.
- It looks like 65 would definitely be "flying on the back side of the
power curve", not best for gliding.
- In that info pack, there is a "Descent Rate (Idle Power)" curve for
the RV-3 but not the RV-6. That is what I'd like to see.
So, if all research and flight testing shows that 80 IAS really is a good
"nominal" value for final approach, then the issue of "floating" seems to
boil down to: A normal practice of gliding in on final at 80 IAS . . .
aiming at the very end of the runway . . . (with due consideration of wind
down the runway & obstacles) - or some point a little short of the end.
This point would be such as to result in a touchdown at a safe distance down
the runway - a conscious choice of where you personally choose to safely
touchdown day after day in regular proficiency flying and preparing for the
day when you have to do it "for real" with an engine failure - in which case
you'd probably aim "that distance short" of a point 1/3 down the runway
instead of trying to make a "spot landing" near the end.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "rv-list"
Subject: RV-List: Test Flight Data
> Hi All...
>
> I did some more flyig this morning,
I then descended to the pattern for some T&G's... I made a total of 5
landings and taxied back... The plane will float for a long time if I come
in at 80 mph on final... Next time out I will try some 70 - 75 mph final
approaches...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight Data) |
Best glide speed is normally 1.5 stall speed, therefore 75 mph would be
appropriate.
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
Flight Data)
>
>Best glide speed is normally 1.5 stall speed, therefore 75 mph would be
>appropriate.
>
>Bill Mahoney
>RV-6 N747W
>
That depends a lot on the airfoil and aspect ratio, so I wouldn't
treat it as a "golden fact". The aerobatic RVs have a lot lower
aspect ratio than spam cans, so the ratio of best glide speed to
stall speed is probably a bit higher than on a Cessna. For an
extreme example, the "stall" speed of the Mirage III is somewhere
below 140 kt, yet the best glide speed is 300 kt, due to the extreme
low aspect ratio.
Every RV is going to have a slightly different relationship between
CAS and IAS, due to variations in static source error, and different
airspeed indicator errors. So even if all RVs had the same best
glide speed in CAS, the IAS would be different. Thus, best glide
speed is something that each builder needs to figure out for his
aircraft.
The CAFE Foundation flight test report on an RV-6A found a best glide
speed of 92 kt CAS, or 106 mph CAS, but they note that the
atmospheric conditions were not great, so the data may be off a bit.
See:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/RV-6A%20Final%20APR.pdf
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
what would be the correct cruise speed for an rv-4 with 0-320 150hp? they way
75% power. what rpm is that setting. do they do all testing at 8000 feet?
can anyone give me an idea of what cruise speed would be at 3000 feet at 2450
rpms?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I have sat back and read the post re rv's and turbulence and waited for
someone to mention this.
The RV, at a similar speed, doesn't ride any worse than a cherokee or
warrior. A lot of what you feel has to do with not just wing loading, but
what I'll call excess reserve lift. (I'm not an engineer, help me out here)
We feel turbulence because as we fly into a rising or falling of column of
air the angle of attack of our wing (with respect to the air, we're not
talking pitch, but true angle of attack) changes momentarily.
Because of our aircraft's high cruise speed and low stall speed, a small
change in angle of attack produces a huge difference in lift. BUT!!! If
you slow down to Cherokee speeds, the plane feels "softer", and turbulence
is no worse than a cherokee at comparable speeds. Mooneys and Bonanza's are
in another league. High stall speeds and high wing loading soften their
ride at higher speeds, butcompared to a run of the mill cessna or piper, if
we slow down to their speeds we don't ride any worse than they do.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>
>what would be the correct cruise speed for an rv-4 with 0-320 150hp? they way
>75% power. what rpm is that setting. do they do all testing at 8000 feet?
>
>can anyone give me an idea of what cruise speed would be at 3000 feet at 2450
>rpms?
>
>thank you
>dan carley
Van's web site claims 188 mph TAS for a 150 hp RV-4 at 75% power at
8,000 ft. Van's numbers have the reputation of being realistic, for
a well built aircraft, with the latest wheel pants, with a good prop.
75% power at 8,000 ft should be pretty close to 2700 rpm and full
throttle. If your prop isn't pitched to match that condition, you
won't get Van's performance numbers.
It is pretty much impossible to compare cruise speeds based on rpm
with a fixed pitch prop, because different props will allow you to
use different amounts of throttle at a given rpm, depending on how
the prop is pitched. Do you have a manifold pressure gauge? If so,
we could figure out what percent power you are
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>The RV, at a similar speed, doesn't ride any worse than a cherokee or
>warrior.
Especially if you climb beyond where the standard airplanes can. Oxygen is
a most useful accessory for a traveling RV.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
Paso Robles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing lubrication? |
LPS-1, LPS-2, or LPS-3? Each is quite different. Concensus from other
builders seem to point to LPS-2, although it seems anything handy would
work. Still, I'd like to use the optimum lubricant and at this point it
sounds like LPS-2 is probably best suited. Any dissenting opinions?
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearing lubrication?
>
> Randy,
>
> I don't believe you have received much comment on this publically but we
use
> LPS on the Bonanza on a regular basis. Seems to work quite well.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
> >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: ,
> >Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearing lubrication?
> >Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:31:03 -0700
> >
> >
> >As I dive into my first yearly Condition Inspection I'd like to know if
> >those who have gone before recommend lubricating all the rod end bearings
> >in
> >any way. LPS-2? Boeshield? WD-40? Nothing at all? This would be a good
one
> >for the archives also.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Randy Lervold
> >RV-8 #80500, 154 hrs
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight Data) |
I thought I read or heard someplace that Van recommends 1.6 X Vstall???
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carter
Subject: Final approach speed and landings (was Re: RV-List: Test Flight
Data)
Bill, and others,
The basic rule for calculating final approach speed is 1.3 X Vstall
(CAS), and adjust CAS to get IAS.
- If the RV-6 stalls at 50 mph CAS at a given wt, then final would
be flown at 50+15=65 IAS.
I had 1.3 hours dual with Mike in Oregon. He taught me to fly 80 MPH(?)
patterns, with basic philosophy which I like, that one should be able to
glide to a safe on-field landing if engine quits in the pattern or on
final.
- Rationale was that the RV-6 has a low aspect ratio wing and has a
higher sink rate below 80. I'm not sure he worded it exactly that way,
but
that was the implication.
Has anyone flight tested to find the "best glide speed" for an RV-6,
i.e, most fwd distance traveled per feet of altitude lost, at some given
weight? If it is less than 80 mph or kias, then that would seem to be a
good pattern speed for idle pattern & landing and should replace the "80
IAS is better if the engine quits" thing.
Looking at the performance curves in the Van's "Info Pack" (next to last
page in my copy), the "Power Required Curve" for RV-6 shows minimum
brake horsepower required for level flt to occur at 80 to 85 mph (pretty
flat in that area), which may be the source of Mike's choice of 80 as a
good power off glide speed - makes sense to me.
- It looks like 65 would definitely be "flying on the back side of
the power curve", not best for gliding.
- In that info pack, there is a "Descent Rate (Idle Power)" curve
for the RV-3 but not the RV-6. That is what I'd like to see.
So, if all research and flight testing shows that 80 IAS really is a
good "nominal" value for final approach, then the issue of "floating"
seems to boil down to: A normal practice of gliding in on final at 80
IAS . . . aiming at the very end of the runway . . . (with due
consideration of wind down the runway & obstacles) - or some point a
little short of the end. This point would be such as to result in a
touchdown at a safe distance down the runway - a conscious choice of
where you personally choose to safely touchdown day after day in regular
proficiency flying and preparing for the day when you have to do it "for
real" with an engine failure - in which case you'd probably aim "that
distance short" of a point 1/3 down the runway instead of trying to make
a "spot landing" near the end.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "rv-list"
Subject: RV-List: Test Flight Data
> Hi All...
>
> I did some more flyig this morning,
I then descended to the pattern for some T&G's... I made a total of 5
landings and taxied back... The plane will float for a long time if I
come in at 80 mph on final... Next time out I will try some 70 - 75 mph
final approaches...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight Data) |
I'd like to add a couple of data points to the mix. I do a lot of flying
into back-country airports in my 6A, and I feel very comfortable with steep
approaches and short field landings. My RV stalls at 52mph/57mph IAS
(solo/gross). Unless I'm at or near full gross I use 55mph as Vso. My home
field is 3000' long at 2250msl. Not short by any means but I use it to
practice short field landings and I can stop before the end without touching
the brakes. I fly short field approaches at 1.2Vso, or 65mph. I use just a
touch of power on short final (I don't use any power if it's a very short
field, but the descent rate is quite steep) and pull it off at about 8-10'
agl then a very slight back pressure on the stick and you touch down quite
nose-high with almost no float. The transition from a steep approach to
touchdown in this configuration is very brief and you only get one shot at a
smooth touchdown, but it isn't difficult. I've even slowed to 60mph over
the fence on very short, rough fields, but the landing is more of an arrival
than a touchdown, and I don't recommend anything less than 1.2Vso unless
absolutely necessary.
For longer runways I'll come in at 70mph (1.3Vso) and by contrast, there is
a lot more float. I'll usually bring it in with a little power, level out
at a foot above the runway, and ease the power out to make contact with the
ground. You can make really nice "kiss-the-ground" landings this way.
Personally, I don't bother with any approach speeds faster than this. I
made my first few landings at an approach speed of 80mph and couldn't figure
out why the thing wouldn't stop flying.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> So, if all research and flight testing shows that 80 IAS really is a good
> "nominal" value for final approach, then the issue of "floating" seems to
> boil down to: A normal practice of gliding in on final at 80 IAS . . .
> aiming at the very end of the runway . . . (with due consideration of wind
> down the runway & obstacles) - or some point a little short of the end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rod end bearing lubrication? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Randy, when I was turnin' wrenches as an A&P at a flight school we always
used LPS to lube the rod ends, piano hinges, etc. on our Warriors.
Seemed to work great. We had both LPS-1 and -2 laying around the shop
and just grabbed whichever can was closest to us when we needed it.
There's a slight difference in the formula between the two but for
general all-purpose stuff like rod ends, either will do the job. WD-40
would probly work too, but it tends to dry out / wash out faster so you
need to use it more often to keep things slick. I'm not sure what
"Boeshield" is...do you mean Boelube? The Boelube I have is a dry stuff
that would be hard to use on rod ends....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit...
_______
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearing lubrication?
As I dive into my first yearly Condition Inspection I'd like to know if
those who have gone before recommend lubricating all the rod end bearings
in
any way. LPS-2? Boeshield? WD-40? Nothing at all? This would be a good
one
for the archives also.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 154 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: oil coolers |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
I asked Pacific Oil Coolers about the 9-row Aero-classic oil cooler.
Got a reply from Wayne Thomas. The price is $205.00 outright for the
non-PMA unit. I have the Van's Niagara 7-row cooler mounted on the
firewall. It is marginal and I am probably going to try the P.O.C.
9-row unit.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM
230 hours, O-360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: speeds. |
Hi Dan;
Alot depends on your prop and your fairings. I have
tried 3 different props on mine including the
sensenich 70X78. My current prop is a Catto composite
and is the best overall prop for ALL purposes for me.
A MP gauge helps alot too.
\ To answer your question, My 150HP,electronic ign RV4
cruises at 150 knots at 3000 ft at 23" MP and 2550
RPM. Cruise props will go faster for the RPM but
takeoff and climb will suffer. I fly out of alot of
short grass strips in the hot humid southern summer
and climb is nice. With the sensenich, I cruised at
158 knots at 2450/24" and firewalled would only give
me 2600 rpm and 176 knots but climb suffered and
vibration was higher. Aerobatics also suffered.
With the Catto I can firewall it at 15,500 feet and
get rated RPM (2700) and 19" MP. Aerobatics are alot
better and down low firewalled I can see 2850 RPM/27"
and 177knots.
Hope that helps.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> what would be the correct cruise speed for an rv-4
> with 0-320 150hp? they way
> 75% power. what rpm is that setting. do they do all
> testing at 8000 feet?
>
> can anyone give me an idea of what cruise speed
> would be at 3000 feet at 2450
> rpms?
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Flight Data)
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I agree with this summary completely. My indicated stall speeds are the
same. My 6A has a C/S prop on it so I still use 80 until on final, 70-74
over the fence and then all the same as Ed. When I do fly the Sens planes I
always float too much and am sure I would go to 65 on short final if I had a
chance to practice.
I do almost all "long field" landings. When I do short field landings, I
use 65, and start flare over the end of the runway. As Ed says you gotta be
right (even righter with the C/S and a low idle set!!), so it is well worth
practicing fairly often. It is a real satisfying thing to do this and note
the really short roll out. It is also fun to do the Squeaker landings which
I usually do with a non pilot passenger, or an airline guy.
DLW RV-6A 180HP, C/S 1850 landings so far (approx)
> From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:41:04 -0600
> To:
> Subject: Re: Final approach speed and landings (was Re: RV-List: Test Flight
> Data)
>
>
> I'd like to add a couple of data points to the mix. I do a lot of flying
> into back-country airports in my 6A, and I feel very comfortable with steep
> approaches and short field landings. My RV stalls at 52mph/57mph IAS
> (solo/gross). Unless I'm at or near full gross I use 55mph as Vso. My home
> field is 3000' long at 2250msl. Not short by any means but I use it to
> practice short field landings and I can stop before the end without touching
> the brakes. I fly short field approaches at 1.2Vso, or 65mph. I use just a
> touch of power on short final (I don't use any power if it's a very short
> field, but the descent rate is quite steep) and pull it off at about 8-10'
> agl then a very slight back pressure on the stick and you touch down quite
> nose-high with almost no float. The transition from a steep approach to
> touchdown in this configuration is very brief and you only get one shot at a
> smooth touchdown, but it isn't difficult. I've even slowed to 60mph over
> the fence on very short, rough fields, but the landing is more of an arrival
> than a touchdown, and I don't recommend anything less than 1.2Vso unless
> absolutely necessary.
>
> For longer runways I'll come in at 70mph (1.3Vso) and by contrast, there is
> a lot more float. I'll usually bring it in with a little power, level out
> at a foot above the runway, and ease the power out to make contact with the
> ground. You can make really nice "kiss-the-ground" landings this way.
> Personally, I don't bother with any approach speeds faster than this. I
> made my first few landings at an approach speed of 80mph and couldn't figure
> out why the thing wouldn't stop flying.
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> Eagle, ID
> ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
>> So, if all research and flight testing shows that 80 IAS really is a good
>> "nominal" value for final approach, then the issue of "floating" seems to
>> boil down to: A normal practice of gliding in on final at 80 IAS . . .
>> aiming at the very end of the runway . . . (with due consideration of wind
>> down the runway & obstacles) - or some point a little short of the end.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: air parks
> Guys, do any of you live on an air park? If so, I'm interested in any
> pros and cons you've experienced, and any recommendations, things to
> consider, etc.
Mark et. al.
The best source of information on airparks is the Living With Your Plan
Association http://www.livingwithyourplane.com/links.html started by David
Sclair, publisher of the General Aviation News and Flyer and other
periodicals. A wealth of information is available there. David usually
hosts airpark forums at OSH and Sun & Fun. There are also several web sites
devoted to airparks. Many of the individual airpark web sites include
copies of their covenants etc.
To get back on an RV topic :) if it does not work out in Iowa, ya'll come
on down here to Eagle Neck Airpark on the Georgia coastline. We have 3
completed and two under construction RVs on this airpark. I am sure there
are many other airparks with multiple RVs in residence. We enjoy great
scenery, weather, golf, fishing, boating and having your RV in the front or
back yard...life is good.
Good luck.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
Eagle Neck Airpark
GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV-List
Anybody make it to the RV Fly-in at Skylane beside Evensville, IN?
I had to work and did not get to go :-(
Any pictures?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Problem |
First short 35 minute flight of my RV-6A "Underdog" occured on the evening
of May 8th.
Aircraft flys very well, and I am especially pleased with the stall warning
which gives a seven MPH warning.
Two problems, finger trouble with the intercom squelsh which almost rendered
me NORDO and the Lightspeed Electronic Ignition. I had a two hundred RPM
drop and rough operation in flight when I turn the magneto off.
Prior to flight the Lightspeed seemed OK, but postflight it only seems to be
firing three cylinders at higher power. Have changed plugs, checked coils,
ignition wires, timing and vacuum advance and for proper wiring pin to pin
between Hall effect sensor and the computer.
I now suspect either the computer or that the Hall effect sensor has one bad
pickup.
Before I call for more tech support Monday morning I thought I would check
with the List and see if anyone else has run into this type of a problem or
has any suggestions.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
"Underdog, defender of the Airways" - grounded!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Gauthier <tgauthier(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skylane Flyin? |
Carl Franz invited me to ride along in his beautiful RV-6. We departed
from Livingston County, Michigan around 7:30am and arrived at Skylane 2
hours later. When we arrived the runway was very wet on the west side
however we no problems. Once we got out of the RV we were greeted by a
dozen or more of the nicest people. At least a half dozen are building RV's
in the area. The sky was clear with great visibility however the weather
several miles to the west was threatening rain and storms. We looked at the
weather channel located in their beautiful new building and saw that all
that weather was moving across the Midwest. We only stayed for 2 hours and
headed home because this weather was moving in. Our flight home was VFR all
the way without any problems. The skies were dark and buildups high to west
almost the entire trip home. Just a beautiful day for us, wish we could of
stayed longer. I felt sorry for the organizers because we were the only RV
there at the time. Only about six planes total. We took off on the dry side
of the runway with no problems. Once in flight we did hear another RV on
the radio state his intentions to land at Skylane. The people there were
great and I hope the weather is better for them next year.
Ted Gauthier- DAR
RV-6, Finishing
Just hung my Superior SL-0360
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Skylane Flyin?
>
> Anybody make it to the RV Fly-in at Skylane beside Evensville, IN?
> I had to work and did not get to go :-(
> Any pictures?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow Perf fuel pump amperage? |
I am temporarily unsure of the position of the documentation that
came with my Airflow Performance electric fuel pump. I need to know
how many amps the pump draws so I can sort out wire size, fuse size,
relay rating, etc.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Control Horn Bolt RV6-A |
List, I am in the process of wiring and in particular the STEC ALT-Hold
which requires you at least temporarily install the elevators and
control rod. During this procedure I have the following questions:
1) Since after painting, the elevators and control rod will be
mounted for the final time. How do you hold the nut on the back of the
Elevator Bellcrank while inserting the AN3-10-A Bolt through the small
inspection hole?
2) Is it me or isn't the AN3-10-A a bit short? AN3-11-A seems more
like it?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
I am considering Electric flap conversion for my completed RV-4
do to pulled ligaments I find it painfull to pull the flap handle.
Any one have have pics on thier web site of this installation? or
any advice on the difficulty on a completed plane would be
appreciated, I found little info in the archives.
Wayne
RV-4 N130NS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Control Horn Bolt RV6-A |
Just put mine in last week for the last time... Took an AN-3-11A to give the
propper amount of thread showing.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
Ervin
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Control Horn Bolt RV6-A
List, I am in the process of wiring and in particular the STEC ALT-Hold
which requires you at least temporarily install the elevators and
control rod. During this procedure I have the following questions:
1) Since after painting, the elevators and control rod will be
mounted for the final time. How do you hold the nut on the back of the
Elevator Bellcrank while inserting the AN3-10-A Bolt through the small
inspection hole?
2) Is it me or isn't the AN3-10-A a bit short? AN3-11-A seems more
like it?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Horn Bolt RV6-A |
I made life a bit easier by putting an inspection hole ( 3 x 4 inches or so)
on EACH side of that area so I could put a socket on the bolt head and the
nut.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Titeseal - which one? |
A few days ago, someone mentioned using Titeseal from Aircraft Spruce to seal their
fuel tank access covers. I took a look at the on-line catalog to see what
it cost, and there's two flavors of Titeseal listed - Light weight, and medium
weight. For whoever suggested using it - which did you use, and have you leak-checked
and/or used your tanks yet?
Semper Fi
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps |
I isnstalled them on completed RV-4 - pretty straightforward actually...a
few holes and rivets in the bottom of plane
The are a big improvement
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Bonesteel <rv8tor3(at)charter.net>
Date: Sunday, May 12, 2002 11:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electric flaps
>
>I am considering Electric flap conversion for my completed RV-4
>do to pulled ligaments I find it painfull to pull the flap handle.
>
>Any one have have pics on thier web site of this installation? or
>any advice on the difficulty on a completed plane would be
>appreciated, I found little info in the archives.
>
>Wayne
>RV-4 N130NS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | New Warnke prop concerns |
Listers..
A good friend of mine (not on the RV list) just received and installed a
new Warnke wood prop on his O-320 powered RV6. He has serious concerns
on the relatively low RPM results he is getting so far. He would like to
get some input from those of you who may have information to offer.
These are some numbers he is getting with the new prop.
Initial climb out...(sea level)...2270 RPM & 28" M.P.
Low altitude cruise...2300 RPM & 25" M.P.
Full throttle @ 3000'....2520 RPM & 27" M.P.
Thanks for your replies...
Ken Cantrell
RV6 flying!!!
29 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Glide Speed (was Re:Final approach speed and landings (was Re: RV-List: |
Test Flight Data))
On a (mostly) related note, one thing we did waaaay back in university
was show that in the event of an engine failure, if you wanted maximum
distance travelled per feet of altitude lost, then you'll want to bring
the nose up enough to stop the prop from windmilling before establishing
your best glide speed. Windmilling props provide the equivalent drag of
having a flat stationary disk the diameter of the prop mounted on the
front of your airplane.
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
David Carter wrote:
>
>Has anyone flight tested to find the "best glide speed" for an RV-6, i.e,
>most fwd distance traveled per feet of altitude lost, at some given weight?
>If it is less than 80 mph or kias, then that would seem to be a good pattern
>speed for idle pattern & landing and should replace the "80 IAS is better if
>the engine quits" thing.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
Data)
I fly an RV-6 into my farm strip,which is 1,050 ft. in
length. Last time I landed there I measured my
stopping place,and it was 650 ft. from the end of the
runway,not where my wheels touched. I bring it in no
faster than 60 IAS or I float too much. Getting out of
the strip(solo only),I use about half of the strip
with a gentle breeze and about 700 ft. with no wind.
The length of the grass is a determining factor as
well as knowledge of when it rained there last. I do
a lot of practice "stalling" to get the "feel" of my
plane. Wouldn't recommend starting out at a grass
strip this short. I knew what I could do by setting
stakes alongside of a grass strip and measuring my
takeoffs/landings before I even built this short
strip. The RV is the only plane that can come and go
in this distance and still get you there at 170 mph.
--- Denis Walsh wrote:
>
>
> I agree with this summary completely. My indicated
> stall speeds are the
> same. My 6A has a C/S prop on it so I still use 80
> until on final, 70-74
> over the fence and then all the same as Ed. When I
> do fly the Sens planes I
> always float too much and am sure I would go to 65
> on short final if I had a
> chance to practice.
>
> I do almost all "long field" landings. When I do
> short field landings, I
> use 65, and start flare over the end of the runway.
> As Ed says you gotta be
> right (even righter with the C/S and a low idle
> set!!), so it is well worth
> practicing fairly often. It is a real satisfying
> thing to do this and note
> the really short roll out. It is also fun to do the
> Squeaker landings which
> I usually do with a non pilot passenger, or an
> airline guy.
>
> DLW RV-6A 180HP, C/S 1850 landings so far (approx)
>
> > From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:41:04 -0600
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Final approach speed and landings
> (was Re: RV-List: Test Flight
> > Data)
> >
>
> >
> > I'd like to add a couple of data points to the
> mix. I do a lot of flying
> > into back-country airports in my 6A, and I feel
> very comfortable with steep
> > approaches and short field landings. My RV stalls
> at 52mph/57mph IAS
> > (solo/gross). Unless I'm at or near full gross I
> use 55mph as Vso. My home
> > field is 3000' long at 2250msl. Not short by any
> means but I use it to
> > practice short field landings and I can stop
> before the end without touching
> > the brakes. I fly short field approaches at
> 1.2Vso, or 65mph. I use just a
> > touch of power on short final (I don't use any
> power if it's a very short
> > field, but the descent rate is quite steep) and
> pull it off at about 8-10'
> > agl then a very slight back pressure on the stick
> and you touch down quite
> > nose-high with almost no float. The transition
> from a steep approach to
> > touchdown in this configuration is very brief and
> you only get one shot at a
> > smooth touchdown, but it isn't difficult. I've
> even slowed to 60mph over
> > the fence on very short, rough fields, but the
> landing is more of an arrival
> > than a touchdown, and I don't recommend anything
> less than 1.2Vso unless
> > absolutely necessary.
> >
> > For longer runways I'll come in at 70mph (1.3Vso)
> and by contrast, there is
> > a lot more float. I'll usually bring it in with a
> little power, level out
> > at a foot above the runway, and ease the power out
> to make contact with the
> > ground. You can make really nice
> "kiss-the-ground" landings this way.
> > Personally, I don't bother with any approach
> speeds faster than this. I
> > made my first few landings at an approach speed of
May 02, 2002 - May 12, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mu