RV-Archive.digest.vol-mw
May 22, 2002 - May 29, 2002
| From: | <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | wing-walk removal |
Anyone have any suggestions on a safe, easy way to remove well-stuck on wing
walk material (the kind that comes in a roll, not the brush-on stuff)
without
damaging or lifting the polyurethane beneath?
I used white wing walk from ACS on my mostly white wings... the stuff turned
gray from dirt almost immediately and does not come clean with aggressive
cleaning, so I want to start over with black. However, it's stuck quite
tightly, and I think a solvent will be necessary. Ideas?
Bill B
RV-6A - 4 years, 230 hrs, DuPont basecoat/clearcoat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing-walk removal |
You might try a heat gun. I had some stick on signs on a car once that did not
want to come off. Used a heat gun to heat the material until it was soft and
pulled
it back while still applying heat. It should do the trick. Just don't dwell on
one
spot and it should not damage your paint.
Earl RV4
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone have any suggestions on a safe, easy way to remove well-stuck on wing
> walk material (the kind that comes in a roll, not the brush-on stuff) without
> damaging or lifting the polyurethane beneath?
>
> I used white wing walk from ACS on my mostly white wings... the stuff turned
> gray from dirt almost immediately and does not come clean with aggressive
> cleaning, so I want to start over with black. However, it's stuck quite
> tightly, and I think a solvent will be necessary. Ideas?
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A - 4 years, 230 hrs, DuPont basecoat/clearcoat
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley RV Fly-in, June 8 |
Just a reminder that the Langley RV Fly-in is coming up in about two weeks, on
Saturday, June 8.
The fly-in is organized by Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing and the Langley
Aero Club. It's at the Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ), just 18 nm
north of Bellingham, WA. For U.S. visitors, customs will be available on the
field from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM on June 8.
There will be seminars by Bart Lalonde and Eustace Bowhay, RV training with
Mike Seager, awards for RVs, and lots of other features. You can read all
about it on our web site, at
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
The web site also has flight guide information for CYNJ, border crossing
instructions for aircraft arriving from the U.S., and information on our
discount rate at the local Travelodge.
Please write me off-list if you have any questions.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Traffic Proximity Alert System |
I have been using the ATD 200 for the past month and seem to like it. I'm
not sure but it may be interfering with my transponder code but I have not
confirmed that as of yet.
Best wishes,
john
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage riveting questions |
Hi Steve;
Keep in mind that I have a -6 and you have a -7 but .....
>
> I'm about to rivet the fuselage together including the F770 side skins,
F772
> bottom skin, centre
> fuselage section (F704s) and all the angles and gussets. A few questions:
>
> 1. I guess I dimple the firewall now? If I dimple it now the cowling hinge
> may be
> hard to fit later. If I don't dimple it access will be hard because the
> steel brackets will be riveted in place.
> I'm assuming the cowling hinge gets countersunk later. Does the 0.020 shim
> on the cowling hinge in drawing 45 (section R-R)
> get dimpled later as well? Can't find any direction on this.
Rivet the 1/8 angle firewall stiffeners to the 772 floor and all will be OK
until its time to install the cowl hinge material. Yes, it'll be easier to
fit if the firewall is left flat. Also consider countersinking the hinge
material vice dimpling - its thick but quite soft. The shims can wait til
later until you are fitting the cowling- IOW, do whatever it takes to make
the cowling fit nicely; more, thicker, or countersunk shims should not be an
issue strength wise.
> 2. The fuel tank attachment brackets. Do I drill those now or later?
Best leave these until doing a trial fit of wing with tank to the fuse.
Some issues to watch for here with how the rivet spacing in the fuse sides
plays with the tank bracket bolt holes.
> 3. I plan on riveting the forward bottom skin stiffeners on before putting
> the fuselage back together.
> I should be able to slip the stiffener over the F704, clecoe the floor in
> place and then put the firewall in place.
> Anybody else tried this?
Depends on how the stiffeners will fasten to the firewall and the front side
of the 704 (via the 90 brackets attaching to the spar bolts on a -6 that is,
looks like the -7 is different.) IOW, might be better to do the fore & aft
attachments then rivet the floor to the stiffeners.
> 4. On drawing 28 where it says "see Tri-gear gear attach dwg 34" and there
> are 5 rivets indicated as AN426AD4-7.
> Drawing 34 shows these as AN3-6A bolts, not rivets. I'll leave these holes
> alone for now. There are 5 bolts in this area
> that attaches the landing gear mount right? Easily covered with gear
> fairings later I guess.
Hmm, sounds rather different forrm a -6 - so no comment here. Leave 'em till
later if you can sounds like the best plan.
> Is it just me or do the instruction get worse the further along you get?
Well, let's just say that Van's likes to include a few surprises to see if
you are really paying attention to the written stuff. :-)
Cheers, Jim
CYWG- RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adam Boggs <boggs(at)cs.colorado.edu> |
I have a fairly specific question about the Akzo primer (in particular,
the Akzo 463-12-8 fluid resistant epoxy primer sold by Aircraft Spruce).
It seems to be very well trusted and widely used judging from the archives.
There also seems to be a consensus that for maximum protection you want
to ensure the primer used is MIL-P-23377{D,E,F,G} compliant.
The only spec sheet I could find for the Akzo primer above lists the
relavent specifications as "Boeing DPD: DMS1786". (from
http://www.akzonobelaerospace.com/pro/hydrpr/20-05.pdf). I think these
are commercial specifications, but I was unable to find the spec
anywhere to compare with MIL-P-23377, which was easy to find on the web.
Does anyone know anything about the DMS1786 spec for primers and how it
compares to the mil spec?
I found a reference in the technical document for the Akzo fluid
resistant primer that it contains strontium chromate, which seemed to be
the key point for choosing a MIL-P-23377 primer, but it didn't indicate
how much was in there. There were also hints that the DMS1786 included
the characteristics of MIL-P-23377 in addition to hydraulic fluid
resistance. But there's no indication in the tech doc that it's
MIL-P-23377 complaint.
Any idea where I could find the info on the DMS spec? I've checked the
archives and done numerous web searches but couldn't find the details I
was looking for on the Akzo 463-12-8 primer.
Thanks,
-Adam Boggs
RV7A VS
Boulder, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage riveting questions |
about the floor skins, the forward floor skin stiffners can be rivited to the
floor before installation, make sure the will line up to the brackets on the
firewall 1st. the rear attach tot he spar, will have its own little brackets
that you will have to custom drill and bend anyway.
about the tank fuse brackets, wait until you are finished setting the wing
incidense. i made a set per the plans, then made a set once the wing was
attached, then made the last set once the incidense was set and the rear spar
drilled and bolted.
by the way, i had my tanks done years ago, then they came out with slotting
the tank bracket, i slotted the fuse bracket, and it looks like it works the
same.
about the coweling hinges , the new type coweling dosen't or at least it
didn't need it on my installation. just the hinge then the cowel, no spacer
strip. it ended up very nice and flush. you might consider putting the
camlock fastners, because it is difficult to reach in the oil door and remove
the 2 top hinge pins. i would only use camlocks on the top and on the bottom,
the seam on the sides are fine with the hinge and the seam vertical on the
cowel sides are fine with the hinges.
there is a trick to install the hinge pins from the rear on the seams that
connect the top to the bottom half. i think it is on Randell Hendersons
website. just lower the NACA scoop on the fuse by 1 inch, it will put the
seam in line with the scoop and the hinge pin comes out of the scoop and
locks in as well.
about the manual getting worse as you go, by the time your almost done with
the fuse, you probably want even be looking at the prints, or reading the
manual anymore.
just my 3 cents worth
good luck
scott
tampa
almost there
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
Hello to all -
As a future builder still considering the big picture questions, I
wanted to express my concern over the discussion of the RV-7 spin
recovery characteristics. Does "not as good as the RV-6" in recovery
mean that there are inherent recovery problems - do the spins develop
unrecoverable characteristics with delayed or improper control inputs,
do the spins resist proper recovery techniques?
I want an airplane that I can do non-competition, but disciplined and
trained aerobatic maneuvers, including purposeful spins. Can this be
the RV-7? Vans makes the possibility of sport aerobatics a selling
point for their planes - is it true? They follow FAR 23 as a guideline
for their designs, can anyone expand on this for me? Do they only
follow the standard category requirements or do they follow the
aerobatic category requirements?
Does the standard Vans follows in design differ per model of RV? Would
I be better off with a RV-8 than a RV-7 for sport aerobatics (the side
by side seating of the 7 is more appealing to me and my wife, and I
would do aerobatics for my own training and fun only). I am looking for
the truly multi-purpose and safe choice.
As designed, if I use a certified aerobatic engine, will I get a set of
operating provisions that allow operating the airplane as if it were
certified in the aerobatic category? Has anyone done this (looking to
learn from experience)?
Sorry for the large amount of questions - you can glean where my
concerns and confusions lie.
Thanks to all,
Pete Elia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
In a message dated 5/22/02 5:04:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I want an airplane that I can do non-competition, but disciplined and
trained aerobatic maneuvers, including purposeful spins. Can this be
the RV-7? Vans makes the possibility of sport aerobatics a selling
point for their planes - is it true? They follow FAR 23 as a guideline
for their designs, can anyone expand on this for me? Do they only
follow the standard category requirements or do they follow the
aerobatic category requirements? >>
As for recovery issues, it has never been mentioned that spins in either
aircraft (6 or 7) is unrecoverable. Apparently, neither airplane recovers as
rapidly as FAR 23 would require if it applied to experimental aircraft.
Bottom line, follow Van's instructions and avoid intentional spins. This has
worked for over 1000 flying RV-6's...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
If I remember correctly, the problem with the RV-6 series was that the
airplane would recover OK; but, the fully developed spin was pretty scarey.
It would really tighten up in about three spins. Seems it even scared Van a
little. A proven test pilot who loves spins was the one who really wrung it
out and made it really tighten. This was not a good thing for someone who
likes to do the occasional spin for fun. With that, Van thought it was
better to just avoid the darned things. Heck, I don't even like doing
stalls; so, I don't mind staying away from the spins. However, those who
just want to try it had better be aware that it can get pretty fast. Of
course, a fully developed spin might be a tad slower about coming out of it
because of all that energy that has to be curbed before it stops. Someone
correct me if I'm wrong on the spin info; but, I do remember reading about
it in one of the RVators some time ago.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing-walk removal |
Hello Bill,
A hardware store product called Goo Gone 'might" help
Coal oil softens most sticky backed glues and dose not eat paint.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: wing-walk removal
>
> Anyone have any suggestions on a safe, easy way to remove well-stuck on
wing
> walk material (the kind that comes in a roll, not the brush-on stuff)
without
> damaging or lifting the polyurethane beneath?
>
> I used white wing walk from ACS on my mostly white wings... the stuff
turned
> gray from dirt almost immediately and does not come clean with aggressive
> cleaning, so I want to start over with black. However, it's stuck quite
> tightly, and I think a solvent will be necessary. Ideas?
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A - 4 years, 230 hrs, DuPont basecoat/clearcoat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
Peter - my comments are interspersed into your message.
>
><--stuff snipped out-->
>I want an airplane that I can do non-competition, but disciplined and
>trained aerobatic maneuvers, including purposeful spins. Can this be
>the RV-7? Vans makes the possibility of sport aerobatics a selling
>point for their planes - is it true? They follow FAR 23 as a guideline
>for their designs, can anyone expand on this for me? Do they only
>follow the standard category requirements or do they follow the
>aerobatic category requirements?
My understanding is that Van follows the FAR 23 structural design criteria,
but that he does not attempt to comply with all the flight characteristics
requirements. If the RVs complied with all the flight characteristics
requirements from FAR 23, they would fly just like other aircraft that were
designed to those requirements (i.e. Cessnas and Pipers, etc). We don't
want that.
Van publishes a max weight for aerobatics, and the RVs should meet FAR 23
structural requirements at that weight.
>Does the standard Vans follows in design differ per model of RV? Would
>I be better off with a RV-8 than a RV-7 for sport aerobatics (the side
>by side seating of the 7 is more appealing to me and my wife, and I
>would do aerobatics for my own training and fun only). I am looking for
>the truly multi-purpose and safe choice.
You should discuss the spin issues for each model with Van. Each model
will be different, and in fact each example of each model will be unique,
as these are custom built aircraft, and no two are identical.
>As designed, if I use a certified aerobatic engine, will I get a set of
>operating provisions that allow operating the airplane as if it were
>certified in the aerobatic category? Has anyone done this (looking to
>learn from experience)?
FAA Order 8130.2D Airworthiness Certification of Aircraft and Related
Products contains the required operating limitations. See
<http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/>.
Here is an extract of the required operating limitations - see
<http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/>:
(15) This aircraft is prohibited from aerobatic flight; i.e., an
intentional maneuver involving an abrupt change in the aircraft's attitude,
an abnormal attitude, or abnormal acceleration not necessary for normal flight.
NOTE: If the builder states the aircraft is capable of aerobatic flight,
limitation 16 will be used in lieu of limitation 15.
(16) This aircraft may conduct aerobatic flight in accordance with the
provisions of 91.303. Aerobatics shall not be attempted until sufficient
flight experience has been gained to establish that the aircraft is
satisfactorily controllable and in compliance with 91.319(b). The
aircraft may only conduct those aerobatic flight maneuvers that have been
satisfactorily accomplished during flight testing and recorded in the
aircraft maintenance records by use of the following or a similarly worded
statement: "I certify that the following aerobatic maneuvers have been test
flown and the aircraft is controllable throughout the maneuver's normal
range of speeds and is safe for operation. The flight tested aerobatics
maneuvers are: ____________, ____________, ____________, and ____________."
NOTE: Aerobatic flights may be permitted in the assigned test area. The
applicant should be advised that aerobatics or violent maneuvers should not
be attempted until sufficient flight experience has been gained to
establish that the aircraft is satisfactorily controllable. These operating
limitations may be modified to include only those aerobatics/maneuvers that
have been satisfactorily accomplished and recorded in the aircraft records
during the flight test period. These aerobatic maneuvers should be
permitted upon leaving that assigned test area. Appropriate limitations
identifying the aerobatics/maneuvers and conditions under which they may be
performed should be prescribed. The certificating inspector may witness
aerobatic maneuvers if deemed necessary.
So, at first glance, it appears that there is nothing here that would
prevent you from doing aerobatics, if you determine that the aircraft is
capable of aerobatic flight, and if you comply with all the various FAR 91
requirements.
Kevin Horton - RV-8 Engine Installation, etc
Ottawa, Canada
http://member.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
Two or more threads are called for.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avemco Insurance
>
> I just had my plane inspected this morning by a local tech counsler, he
gave
> me a ticket but informed me that avemeco doesn't care to see these
anymore,
> and they have become very difficult to deal with, . he suggested Vangard,
> which is Nation air JT Helms etc... which i already have coverage with. so
> the little inspection slips are worthless to me. but i did want
experienced
> eyes looking over my project before the big inspection. he only found a
> couple things. i should use black tye wraps in the engine compartment for
> heat, some of the bolts vans palns call out don't leave enough threads
> sticking out of the bolts. how many threads is good enough?
> scott
> tampa
> working at the speed of light
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
three threads
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Avemco Insurance
>Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:20:03 EDT
>
>
>I just had my plane inspected this morning by a local tech counsler, he
>gave
>me a ticket but informed me that avemeco doesn't care to see these anymore,
>and they have become very difficult to deal with, . he suggested Vangard,
>which is Nation air JT Helms etc... which i already have coverage with. so
>the little inspection slips are worthless to me. but i did want experienced
>eyes looking over my project before the big inspection. he only found a
>couple things. i should use black tye wraps in the engine compartment for
>heat, some of the bolts vans palns call out don't leave enough threads
>sticking out of the bolts. how many threads is good enough?
>scott
>tampa
>working at the speed of light
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
This primer is used by Fedex. It resists skydrol, which is nasty stuff. It
will resist ANYTHING used on small aircraft. It is a good choice.
>From: Adam Boggs <boggs(at)cs.colorado.edu>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Akzo primer
>Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:46:22 -0600
>
>
>I have a fairly specific question about the Akzo primer (in particular,
>the Akzo 463-12-8 fluid resistant epoxy primer sold by Aircraft Spruce).
>It seems to be very well trusted and widely used judging from the archives.
>There also seems to be a consensus that for maximum protection you want
>to ensure the primer used is MIL-P-23377{D,E,F,G} compliant.
>
>The only spec sheet I could find for the Akzo primer above lists the
>relavent specifications as "Boeing DPD: DMS1786". (from
>http://www.akzonobelaerospace.com/pro/hydrpr/20-05.pdf). I think these
>are commercial specifications, but I was unable to find the spec
>anywhere to compare with MIL-P-23377, which was easy to find on the web.
>Does anyone know anything about the DMS1786 spec for primers and how it
>compares to the mil spec?
>
>I found a reference in the technical document for the Akzo fluid
>resistant primer that it contains strontium chromate, which seemed to be
>the key point for choosing a MIL-P-23377 primer, but it didn't indicate
>how much was in there. There were also hints that the DMS1786 included
>the characteristics of MIL-P-23377 in addition to hydraulic fluid
>resistance. But there's no indication in the tech doc that it's
>MIL-P-23377 complaint.
>
>Any idea where I could find the info on the DMS spec? I've checked the
>archives and done numerous web searches but couldn't find the details I
>was looking for on the Akzo 463-12-8 primer.
>
>Thanks,
>-Adam Boggs
>RV7A VS
>Boulder, CO
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 full span fuel tanks |
-has anyone tried building full span wing tanks for a RV-8? Van's of
course won't talk of it. If I used the existing tank skins to build a
second tank I'd come up 4" too short, although I could easily chop that off
the wing
length. Obviously this all affects the wing characteristics. I would
assume that the extra baffle would stiffen the outboard wing spar, except at
that ill-fated joint. I wondered ,too, if I could just simply use the .025
skin to build the tank, just that it may not be rated for 6 G's, which
would suffice when it was in use and full of fuel, perhaps riveting it
permanently on for simplification, as was done with the first RV-8
prototype.
Tom said that shortening the wing, as done with HR's, can increase the
stress on the spar. I don't quite follow that logic since the total load is
also changing. I thought that outboard fuel actually reduced spar stress.
Kevin Portland OR
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: RV-List: Langley RV Fly-in, June 8
>
> Just a reminder that the Langley RV Fly-in is coming up in about two
weeks, on
> Saturday, June 8.
>
> The fly-in is organized by Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing and the
Langley
> Aero Club. It's at the Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ), just 18
nm
> north of Bellingham, WA. For U.S. visitors, customs will be available on
the
> field from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM on June 8.
>
> There will be seminars by Bart Lalonde and Eustace Bowhay, RV training
with
> Mike Seager, awards for RVs, and lots of other features. You can read all
> about it on our web site, at
>
> http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
>
> The web site also has flight guide information for CYNJ, border crossing
> instructions for aircraft arriving from the U.S., and information on our
> discount rate at the local Travelodge.
>
> Please write me off-list if you have any questions.
>
> ---
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Van's Air Force
> Western Canada Wing
> tedd(at)vansairforce.org
> www.vansairforce.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 full span fuel tanks |
>
> -has anyone tried building full span wing tanks for a RV-8? Van's of
>course won't talk of it. If I used the existing tank skins to build a
>second tank I'd come up 4" too short, although I could easily chop that off
>the wing
> length. Obviously this all affects the wing characteristics. I would
>assume that the extra baffle would stiffen the outboard wing spar, except
>at
>that ill-fated joint. I wondered ,too, if I could just simply use the .025
> skin to build the tank, just that it may not be rated for 6 G's, which
>would suffice when it was in use and full of fuel, perhaps riveting it
>permanently on for simplification, as was done with the first RV-8
>prototype.
> Tom said that shortening the wing, as done with HR's, can increase
>the
>stress on the spar. I don't quite follow that logic since the total load
>is
>also changing. I thought that outboard fuel actually reduced spar stress.
> Kevin Portland OR
Wing tip fuel tanks have been installed on various RV versions with no
problems that I know of. I don't know of anyone who has done it on an RV8,
which carries quite enough fuel for most people. I seldom fly longer than 2
hour legs anyway, and have plenty of fuel remaining. I see no need for
carrying extra fuel..and weight. Full length tanks in the wing is getting
into untested territory. You're on your own here.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
283 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
07:49:05 AM
I believe a local builder called spruce about six months ago and they dont
carry akzo anymore. I currently use Akzo and it is extremely good stuff. It
is readilly available from dealers around the country. Do a search for Akzo
or Dexter as it is also called. An equivalent primer, mixes a little
differently but seems to be the same stuff, is Stitts Epoxy Primer. Also,
extremely good stuff but more expensive. The Akzo is the best deal out
there. We found it for $59.00 for a two gallon kit. You just can't beat
that.
Eric
"Craig Chipley" (at)matronics.com on 05/23/2002
12:19:10 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Akzo primer
This primer is used by Fedex. It resists skydrol, which is nasty stuff. It
will resist ANYTHING used on small aircraft. It is a good choice.
>From: Adam Boggs <boggs(at)cs.colorado.edu>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Akzo primer
>Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:46:22 -0600
>
>
>I have a fairly specific question about the Akzo primer (in particular,
>the Akzo 463-12-8 fluid resistant epoxy primer sold by Aircraft Spruce).
>It seems to be very well trusted and widely used judging from the
archives.
>There also seems to be a consensus that for maximum protection you want
>to ensure the primer used is MIL-P-23377{D,E,F,G} compliant.
>
>The only spec sheet I could find for the Akzo primer above lists the
>relavent specifications as "Boeing DPD: DMS1786". (from
>http://www.akzonobelaerospace.com/pro/hydrpr/20-05.pdf). I think these
>are commercial specifications, but I was unable to find the spec
>anywhere to compare with MIL-P-23377, which was easy to find on the web.
>Does anyone know anything about the DMS1786 spec for primers and how it
>compares to the mil spec?
>
>I found a reference in the technical document for the Akzo fluid
>resistant primer that it contains strontium chromate, which seemed to be
>the key point for choosing a MIL-P-23377 primer, but it didn't indicate
>how much was in there. There were also hints that the DMS1786 included
>the characteristics of MIL-P-23377 in addition to hydraulic fluid
>resistance. But there's no indication in the tech doc that it's
>MIL-P-23377 complaint.
>
>Any idea where I could find the info on the DMS spec? I've checked the
>archives and done numerous web searches but couldn't find the details I
>was looking for on the Akzo 463-12-8 primer.
>
>Thanks,
>-Adam Boggs
>RV7A VS
>Boulder, CO
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mstewart(at)qa.butler.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
Ahh, the old thread ?
Well my DAR said 1 =BD was good. He would use his fingernail and if he
could
grab a thread with his nail, it was good.
My Best bud, Delta A&P, IA, etc.. says they do 2 threads at work. His
bolts
are free though.
I say 1 =BD works fine since bolts are not free for me. With 1 =BD
showing, I
know I have cranked through 2 full turns of Teflon and I feel more than
safe
with that.
I definitely think three is excessive.
Course only 2 feelings matter. Yours for YOUR safety, and the DAR's for
his
signature. Check with your DAR way before the inspection so your not
caught
off guard.
Mike Stewart 6A flying 300hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy frame hitting top skin and transponder |
Greetings to the list -
Many thanks to those who had suggestions about moving my RV-8 project to
Louisville - it is now safe and sound in a hangar at Bowman Field.
Particular thanks to Jim Sears and Pat Patterson - both were a great
help.
Two questions for you:
When the forward top skin is clecoed on, the canopy frame hits the skin
on the sides right next to the roll bar. Bending the side of the skin
to make it fit around the canopy frame makes it look a little funny.
The support ribs that attach the skin to the roll bar have not been
attached, but they didn't look like they would be of much help. The
canopy frame seems to fit fairly well judging by the position of the
rails and the distance from the edge of the frame to the edge of the
cockpit. Should this skin be trimmed? If so, by how much?
On another subject, I purchased a used TRT 250D to use in my VFR panel.
I used an avionics shop for some harness work. While building the
harness, they connected the transponder to a test system and found that
it was sending out "erroneous" Mode C signals. Terra transponders are
being supported by Free Flight in Waco, TX who supposedly fixed the
system. But when the unit was returned, it still sent out the
"erroneous" signals - according to the avionics shop. The factory
tested it yet again and can't duplicate the problem. I can't figure out
what to do except ask yet another avionics shop to test it and side with
the best 2 out of 3. unfortunately, I've already cut the hole in the
panel, so I really don't want to go with another unit. Anybody have any
suggestions? Any totally reliable avionics shops?
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame hitting top skin and transponder |
The top skin does have to be trimmed !! The amount is not critical if you
are going to do an overlap with fiberglass when shaping in the windscreen, a
little more critical if you are going to use a butt joint.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: wing-walk removal |
Try a heating pad, wrapped in a clean old towel and lightly
pressed/weighted on the material. 24 hour soaking with a heating pad and
blanket should aid in the removal. Also, that orange (fruit) citris
extract glue & sticky stuff removal fluid is great. I haven't found any
sticky glue residue that it cant remove. Dosen't harm paint. Most
hardware stores and Home-Depo has it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame hitting top skin and transponder |
Right... You have to trim that skin... I'm doing the overlap with the glass because
it's easier and has to seal better IMHO... Haven't done it yet though
cuz I'm having too much fun flying!
The top skin does have to be trimmed !! The amount is not critical if you
are going to do an overlap with fiberglass when shaping in the windscreen, a
little more critical if you are going to use a butt joint.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Hiding Canopy Frame Rail-to-plexi (Finishing) |
The rear section of my canopy has the 1/2 inch soft aluimum tubing
former that is part of the canopy frame (that the plexi attaches to). I
needed a clever,light,easy & cheap way to hide it & integrate it to the
rat-skin fuzz I am using as interior fabric. This rat-skin fuzz (kinda
like a felt, off gray and very light and available at the aviation isle
at Home Dspo) got glued to the canopy frame with double sided carpet
tape and was fitted up to the bottom of the rail/tubing of the canopy
skins. Well, to the point of this drivle... I used 4 foot of the
corrugated, split ribbed plastic conduit that Vans sells (Pep Boys also)
and fitted this ribbed plastic over the tubing, It looks fantastic, hi
tech, and hides the tub as well as transisitions the plexi nicely. It
also hides the fabric-to-rail junction nicely. It is fitted over the
duck-tail rear section of my RV-4 canopy frame rail. I am considering
using this stuff along the entire section of canopy-to-tube junction
too. I used 3/4 inch , any smaller would not work. Helpful Hint: This
plastic conduit stuff is usually shipped in tight rolls and needs to be
relaxed or straightened to do this correctly. I gently pushed a wooden
dowl rod down the plastic conduit, removing any twists and alligning the
split. Placed the mess in the car for a 8 hour cook in the sun while I
was at work. (windows closed)I imagine a hair dryewr would work also.
When relaxed, this conduid snapped into position on by canopy rail
nicely........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 05/22/02 |
SNIP StratoFlex sells a product to dip the hose ends in to seal and is
fireproof. SNIP
You might also consider the red high temp RTV. Not fireproof, but in the
tiny amount you need, not a big concern to me. And it's the right color.
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 full span fuel tanks |
Yes -
A builder of an 8A did it.
He is an experienced A&P builder who has build other RV's.
He had the A/C at OSH (Unpainted) & SNF this year.
No other details...
Don Eaves
doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 full span fuel tanks
>
> -has anyone tried building full span wing tanks for a RV-8? Van's of
> course won't talk of it. If I used the existing tank skins to build a
> second tank I'd come up 4" too short, although I could easily chop that
off
> the wing
> length. Obviously this all affects the wing characteristics. I would
> assume that the extra baffle would stiffen the outboard wing spar, except
at
> that ill-fated joint. I wondered ,too, if I could just simply use the
.025
> skin to build the tank, just that it may not be rated for 6 G's, which
> would suffice when it was in use and full of fuel, perhaps riveting it
> permanently on for simplification, as was done with the first RV-8
> prototype.
> Tom said that shortening the wing, as done with HR's, can increase
the
> stress on the spar. I don't quite follow that logic since the total load
is
> also changing. I thought that outboard fuel actually reduced spar stress.
> Kevin Portland OR
>
> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Langley RV Fly-in, June 8
>
>
> >
> > Just a reminder that the Langley RV Fly-in is coming up in about two
> weeks, on
> > Saturday, June 8.
> >
> > The fly-in is organized by Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing and the
> Langley
> > Aero Club. It's at the Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ), just
18
> nm
> > north of Bellingham, WA. For U.S. visitors, customs will be available
on
> the
> > field from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM on June 8.
> >
> > There will be seminars by Bart Lalonde and Eustace Bowhay, RV training
> with
> > Mike Seager, awards for RVs, and lots of other features. You can read
all
> > about it on our web site, at
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
> >
> > The web site also has flight guide information for CYNJ, border crossing
> > instructions for aircraft arriving from the U.S., and information on our
> > discount rate at the local Travelodge.
> >
> > Please write me off-list if you have any questions.
> >
> > ---
> >
> > Tedd McHenry
> > Van's Air Force
> > Western Canada Wing
> > tedd(at)vansairforce.org
> > www.vansairforce.org
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | wing walk tape removal |
Try a towel over the wing walk and an electric iron set on whatever heat it
takes to soften the glue without hurting the paint. The towel, of course,
is so you don't scratch up the pretty paint on the wing, and also to keep
glue off the iron.
Good luck.... and don't boil the gasoline in the tank. :-O
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
SNIP Anyone have any suggestions on a safe, easy way to remove well-stuck on
wing
walk material SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
>
>
> three threads
Any official reference to this? It seems excessive, and far more than
the '1/32" past the end of the bolt' AC43-13 specifies as acceptable.
I know for sure that there is no way I could have three threads showing on
my close-tolerance wing bolts, they bottomed out against the shank at two
threads showing.
Rob Acker (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question related to RV-4 accident in Arkansas |
Something else that works well is the corresponding nut that screws onto the
threads, (the one you would use if you were attaching a flared tube) but
make a long red cloth streamer with a knot in the threaded end of the nut,
and the streamer coming through the other end. Make the knot/streamer so
that it completely seals the hole and keep two of them in the plane along
with your pitot tube cover. Then whenever you park the plane, screw 'em on.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> This reminds me of a new Cessna 182 I saw (oooh, did I say that word?)
that
> used plastic pot scrubbers (the ones that look like steel wool) to keep
bugs
> out of the cabin air intakes. I wonder if those would work here, or if the
> daubers would think that was a good start on a nest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
From AC 43-13.1B " All bolt installations which involve self-locking or
plain nuts should have at least one thread of the bolt protruding through
the nut."
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads
>
>
> three threads
Any official reference to this? It seems excessive, and far more than
the '1/32" past the end of the bolt' AC43-13 specifies as acceptable.
I know for sure that there is no way I could have three threads showing on
my close-tolerance wing bolts, they bottomed out against the shank at two
threads showing.
Rob Acker (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
05/23/2002 11:21:02 AM
In Industry, this "safety question" of threads showing through nuts has
come up many times. To make life simple, a guideline / rule of how many
threads should be showing is usually established. Think about it. If too
many threads are showing, we have unnecessary weight gain. If not enough
are showing, we might not have fully engaged all of the threads. In
Industry, I'm not aware of any problem with "too many" threads showing.
On some occasions, a particular situation has been reviewed in more detail.
For example, a bolt / nut was found to have "short threads" on a piece of
operating equipment that would require a costly outage to correct. In
these cases (that I am aware of), an engineering analysis was conducted and
the application was deemed satisfactory or not. Surprisingly, an
application can be "short threaded" and still have enough strength to shear
the bolt in tension before stripping the threads.
If you think about it, the nut doesn't care how many threads are outside
the gripping area. And, to keep us from having to do complex
calculations, it's easy enough to say that the threads must fully engage
the entire nut. In some of the cases I have seen, enough strength can be
gained by having the treads 1/2 to 3/4" through the nut. I'm not
suggesting it is OK to "short thread" anywhere on our aircraft. All I am
saying is that as long as I have all threads engaged fully, I'm not going
to worry too much about it. The fingernail test sounds plausible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell blade template |
hi tim
go to this link, if it is a constant speed, and you have a printer, may have
to adjust for scaleing.
good luck
scott
tampa
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/vwp?.dir=/Scott+Reviere%27RV
-6A&.src=gr&.dnm=cleanspinner.jpg&.view=t&
.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/lst%3f%26.dir=/Scott
%2bReviere%2527RV-6A%26.src=gr%26.view=t
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | AOA Sport install |
Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
do not achieve.
scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Sport install |
It could have been was Mike Nellis' site:
http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm
Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | damaged hartzell prop |
A guy in the hangar behind me is building and almost finished with a Comp-air
(what a huge and ugly monster). He's got a used Lyc. turbo 540, and a very used
3 blade hartzell prop. On each blade of the prop, about 2-3 inches from the hub
are a series of scratches. 3-4 per blade, 1/8" to 1/4" apart, each about 1"
long, and several thousandths deep.
From what I know about resonance problems in metal props this is very bad,
creating stress points in each blade which will quickly lead to in-flight
failure. However, the plane's owner, being a long time United airlines 747
captain doesn't want to hear about it.
Question is, am I over reacting to this problem, or are we soon to read about
this guy in the paper. I don't want to make a big deal about it unless I'm sure
I'm right.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
I am looking for a slick way of putting a lock on my canopy... I want to be able
to lock it fully closed and partially open... What have you guy been doing?
Got any good pictures?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Sport install |
thanks Bill. thats it.
scot
>
>It could have been was Mike Nellis' site:
>
>http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm
>
>
> wrote:
>
>
>Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
>wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
>can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
>
>scot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Sport install |
Hi Scott,
I have some detail on my website about installing the pressure port for the
PSS AOA and you can see that here. http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm
Leo Benetti-Longhini also did a very nice job installing his AOA and you can
see his work here. http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/AOA/AOA.html
Hope this helps
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Stambaugh" <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com>
Subject: RV-List: AOA Sport install
>
> Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
> wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
> can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
>
> do not achieve.
>
> scot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged hartzell prop |
Andy,
You are correct. Scratches of even less than a thousandth have been shown
to cause blade seperation if left unrepaired. If he doesn't want to hear it
call his wife. That will get it fixed.
Mike Robertson
>From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: damaged hartzell prop
>Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:50:35 -0600
>
>
>A guy in the hangar behind me is building and almost finished with a
>Comp-air
>(what a huge and ugly monster). He's got a used Lyc. turbo 540, and a very
>used
>3 blade hartzell prop. On each blade of the prop, about 2-3 inches from
>the hub
>are a series of scratches. 3-4 per blade, 1/8" to 1/4" apart, each about
>1"
>long, and several thousandths deep.
>
>From what I know about resonance problems in metal props this is very bad,
>creating stress points in each blade which will quickly lead to in-flight
>failure. However, the plane's owner, being a long time United airlines 747
>captain doesn't want to hear about it.
>
>Question is, am I over reacting to this problem, or are we soon to read
>about
>this guy in the paper. I don't want to make a big deal about it unless I'm
>sure
>I'm right.
>
>Andy
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Sport install |
Thanks Mike. And thanks for reminding me of Leo's site as well. Excellent
stuff.
scot
>
>Hi Scott,
>
>I have some detail on my website about installing the pressure port for the
>PSS AOA and you can see that here. http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm
>
>Leo Benetti-Longhini also did a very nice job installing his AOA and you can
>see his work here. http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/AOA/AOA.html
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
>Georgetown, TX
>Waiting to start Fuselage
>RV6 N699BM Reserved
>1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scot Stambaugh" <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: AOA Sport install
>
>
> >
> > Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
> > wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
> > can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
> >
> > do not achieve.
> >
> > scot
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 full span fuel tanks |
Hi Kevin
I built my RV-9 with full span tanks. I built the inboard leading
edge as per plans, then converted the outboard leading edge into a tank as
well, then I converted the wingtips to tanks. I've not flown yet, but I know
an RV-6 builder who did exactly the same and has been flying for several
years now. He often makes trips requiring this much fuel capacity.
You can find some details of my tanks on my web site. I am (slowly)
working on a written procedure for converting the leading edges to tanks. I
also have a CAD file for the RV-6 conversion.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 3 rotor [SMTP:rv8r300(at)attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 9:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 full span fuel tanks
>
>
> -has anyone tried building full span wing tanks for a RV-8? Van's of
> course won't talk of it. If I used the existing tank skins to build a
> second tank I'd come up 4" too short, although I could easily chop that
> off
> the wing
> length. Obviously this all affects the wing characteristics. I would
> assume that the extra baffle would stiffen the outboard wing spar, except
> at
> that ill-fated joint. I wondered ,too, if I could just simply use the
> .025
> skin to build the tank, just that it may not be rated for 6 G's, which
> would suffice when it was in use and full of fuel, perhaps riveting it
> permanently on for simplification, as was done with the first RV-8
> prototype.
> Tom said that shortening the wing, as done with HR's, can increase
> the
> stress on the spar. I don't quite follow that logic since the total load
> is
> also changing. I thought that outboard fuel actually reduced spar stress.
> Kevin Portland OR
>
>
RE: RV-List: RV-8 full span fuel tanks
Hi Kevin
I built my RV-9 with full span tanks. I built
the inboard leading edge as per plans, then converted the outboard
leading edge into a tank as well, then I converted the wingtips to
tanks. I've not flown yet, but I know an RV-6 builder who did exactly
the same and has been flying for several years now. He often makes
trips requiring this much fuel capacity.
You can find some details of my tanks on my web
site. I am (slowly) working on a written procedure for converting the
leading edges to tanks. I also have a CAD file for the RV-6
conversion.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: <FONT
SIZE1 FACE"Arial">3 rotor [SMTP:rv8r300(at)attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 9:55 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 full span fuel
tanks
-- RV-List message posted by:
3 rotor rv8r300(at)attbi.com
-has anyone tried building full
span wing tanks for a RV-8? Van's of
course won't talk of it.
If I used the existing tank skins to build a
second tank I'd come up 4 too
short, although I could easily chop that off
the wing
length. Obviously this
all affects the wing characteristics. I would
assume that the extra baffle would
stiffen the outboard wing spar, except at
that ill-fated joint. I
wondered ,too, if I could just simply use the .025
skin to build the tank, just
that it may not be rated for 6 G's, which
would suffice when it was in use and
full of fuel, perhaps riveting it
permanently on for simplification, as
was done with the first RV-8
prototype.
Tom said
that shortening the wing, as done with HR's, can increase the
stress on the spar. I don't
quite follow that logic since the total load is
also changing. I thought that
outboard fuel actually reduced spar stress.
Kevin Portland OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged hartzell prop |
>
>A guy in the hangar behind me is building and almost finished with a Comp-air
>(what a huge and ugly monster). He's got a used Lyc. turbo 540, and a
>very used
>3 blade hartzell prop. On each blade of the prop, about 2-3 inches from
>the hub
>are a series of scratches. 3-4 per blade, 1/8" to 1/4" apart, each about 1"
>long, and several thousandths deep.
>
> From what I know about resonance problems in metal props this is very bad,
>creating stress points in each blade which will quickly lead to in-flight
>failure. However, the plane's owner, being a long time United airlines 747
>captain doesn't want to hear about it.
>
>Question is, am I over reacting to this problem, or are we soon to read about
>this guy in the paper. I don't want to make a big deal about it unless
>I'm sure
>I'm right.
>
>Andy
Lot's of possibilities here.
Can you get some digital pictures of it and post them somewhere?
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
If there are "too many threads" showing, the nut may be bottomed against the shank
of the
bolt. If that happens you will NOT have the correct torque on the bolt.
What I've always used as a guideline is 1 to 3 threads.
Dave -6 So Cal
> I'm not aware of any problem with "too many" threads showing.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 full span fuel tanks |
oh now that make me choke on my milk until it came out of my nose. that was
real funny !!! i just wanted to state that the rv8 spar is NOT the rv 6 spar.
becareful on mods of that nature.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell blade template |
tim
did you cut your spinner yourself? if so what did you use as a template? i
cut mine myself 1 little piece at a time, you have to twist the spinner on,
but there is no need to make a little piece to cover the hole in the rear of
the prop. my prop didn't come from vans but it is the same model number , so
i assume it should work the same. if you cut the pattern on the thick line,
and mark it 180 degrees apart on the spinner, put the pattern on the spinner,
( it kind of curves around the spinner) and trace the edge of the pattern on
the spinner you should be ok. like i said, i scanned it into the computer
after i traced the exact size of the cut out on a sheet of paper. once in the
computer i labled everything and cleaned up the template. but i tryed
printing it, it didn't come out to the right scale. i wish i knew a way to
get the spinner template 100 percent scale on the web site, as the original.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Well after a week with the DAR, a week getting checked out for Insurance
(Will Cretsinger gave me some time in his nice 6A.), and a week checking
the plane I got in the air on my daughters birthday.
Roy Greer that works at the airport was standing by for Crash control.
Dick Carmichael with his beatiful 8A flew chase for me.
The winds were 16 gusts 27 almost down the runway ( that kept the
students on the ground) but is was smooth air.
The auotpilot (T/B part) which hasn't turned over in years layed over on
taxi out. After awhile it went to working.
She took all of 200 feet & she was up. At 100 feet of altitude I rolled
left & right & then climbed at 100 kts. The next few seconds I was
worried about the new (used) engine I rebuilt, but she ran smooth all the
way to 2500 feet. On the crosswind leg, the altimeter was ocillating
about 100 feet, but she settled down after awhile. I read all the numbers
out as I circled the field, but no one was ask to record them. Dick & I
compared airspeeds & it looked like the AS indicator was close to right.
After four left turns & one to the right , I slowed for slow flight &
lowered the flaps. I liked the feel at 70 kts, so I was going the raise
the flaps & continue on, but the fuse had blown on the flaps. I had about
25 minutes, so decided to land. We think the 3 amp was too small for the
wind loads, so I have installed a 5 amp & will test it.
My manuel trim is great. Just a twist & she is trimmed. I had cheched out
with Dick Zepperer RV6 that has elec trim & kept pushing the button so
she would go up one time & then down the next. His PTT is on the front of
his stick so evertime I went to trim I would key the mic.
My right wing was a little heavy. I had 1/2 tanks & just me. I reached
down & trimmed that out with my manuel trim & it worked great.
My CHT was in the green but don't remember what it was. My OT got to 210
F. I am concerned about the oil temp because Billy Willson just flew with
the same cooler. He has since gone to a Stewart Warner & 3 inch tubing.
Sam Butler brought some stills over this morning & said my dauthers were
discussing who was going to get what of my assets.
I would like to thank all my friends on the LIST that has offered so much
help through the years & of course the factory.
She is some kind of machine.
I have a 6A with Lyc 0-320-D3G, metal fixed.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame hitting top skin and transponder |
In a message dated 5/23/2002 5:58:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
me(at)parkerthomas.com writes:
> I purchased a used TRT 250D to use in my VFR panel.
> I used an avionics shop for some harness work. While building the
> harness, they connected the transponder to a test system and found that
> it was sending out "erroneous" Mode C signals.
This was the problem with the TRT 250D that I had in my old Kitfox and I was
never able to get the problem solved by the avionics shop. I would think the
Microair to be a better choice for those with limited space. IMO the Terra
is a turd.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list" ,
rv-list
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Canopy Lock |
This is kind of what I was thinking... Please let me know what you all think...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/canopy/lock/index.htm
-Bill
I am looking for a slick way of putting a lock on my canopy... I want to be able
to lock it fully closed and partially open... What have you guy been doing?
Got any good pictures?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads |
Hi Ellis,
The aircraft industry is different than "industry" in general.
The tread length on aircraft industry AN or Mil. Spec.bolts is only long
enough to allow a small number of threads (three maximum) to protrude when a
Nylock nut with washer/s is torqued onto the bolt.
The ideal condition is to have one and one half to two and one half threads
showing after the Nylock nut with washer is tightened to the called out
torque. If using various thickness combinations of washers fails to provide
the desired outcome a different length of bolt will be required.
You must avoid the Nylock nut thread locked to bolt shank condition in all
cases and conditions. Failing to do so will defeat any reliable means of
achieving proper torque settings.
The condition of having the nut and bolt to the right torque without having
the right bolt clamping pressure will result.
I am open to correction on the subject.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avemco Insurance/bolt threads
>
>
> In Industry, this "safety question" of threads showing through nuts has
> come up many times. To make life simple, a guideline / rule of how many
> threads should be showing is usually established. Think about it. If too
> many threads are showing, we have unnecessary weight gain. If not enough
> are showing, we might not have fully engaged all of the threads. In
> Industry, I'm not aware of any problem with "too many" threads showing.
>
> On some occasions, a particular situation has been reviewed in more
detail.
> For example, a bolt / nut was found to have "short threads" on a piece of
> operating equipment that would require a costly outage to correct. In
> these cases (that I am aware of), an engineering analysis was conducted
and
> the application was deemed satisfactory or not. Surprisingly, an
> application can be "short threaded" and still have enough strength to
shear
> the bolt in tension before stripping the threads.
>
> If you think about it, the nut doesn't care how many threads are outside
> the gripping area. And, to keep us from having to do complex
> calculations, it's easy enough to say that the threads must fully engage
> the entire nut. In some of the cases I have seen, enough strength can be
> gained by having the treads 1/2 to 3/4" through the nut. I'm not
> suggesting it is OK to "short thread" anywhere on our aircraft. All I am
> saying is that as long as I have all threads engaged fully, I'm not going
> to worry too much about it. The fingernail test sounds plausible.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Don,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly, RI airport)
From: Don Jordan <DONS6A(at)JUNO.COM>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:12:05 -0500
-- RV-List message posted by: Don Jordan
Well after a week with the DAR, a week getting checked out for Insurance
(Will Cretsinger gave me some time in his nice 6A.), and a week checking
the plane I got in the air on my daughters birthday.
Roy Greer that works at the airport was standing by for Crash control.
Dick Carmichael with his beatiful 8A flew chase for me.
The winds were 16 gusts 27 almost down the runway ( that kept the
students on the ground) but is was smooth air.
The auotpilot (T/B part) which hasn't turned over in years layed over on
taxi out. After awhile it went to working.
She took all of 200 feet she was up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phat Phil <phugoid(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged hartzell prop |
He'll probably end up being a statistic. But that's OK, someone that
dumb shouldn't be flying people around in a 747.
Andy wrote:
>
>A guy in the hangar behind me is building and almost finished with a Comp-air
>(what a huge and ugly monster). He's got a used Lyc. turbo 540, and a very used
>3 blade hartzell prop. On each blade of the prop, about 2-3 inches from the hub
>are a series of scratches. 3-4 per blade, 1/8" to 1/4" apart, each about 1"
>long, and several thousandths deep.
>
>>From what I know about resonance problems in metal props this is very bad,
>creating stress points in each blade which will quickly lead to in-flight
>failure. However, the plane's owner, being a long time United airlines 747
>captain doesn't want to hear about it.
>
>Question is, am I over reacting to this problem, or are we soon to read about
>this guy in the paper. I don't want to make a big deal about it unless I'm sure
>I'm right.
>
>Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How many bolt threads showing? |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
A truly excellent post.
This is the one which should make it to the archives.
Many others have offered good comments but this is the essence.
D Walsh
>
> Hi Ellis,
>
> The aircraft industry is different than "industry" in general.
> The tread length on aircraft industry AN or Mil. Spec.bolts is only long
> enough to allow a small number of threads (three maximum) to protrude when a
> Nylock nut with washer/s is torqued onto the bolt.
> The ideal condition is to have one and one half to two and one half threads
> showing after the Nylock nut with washer is tightened to the called out
> torque. If using various thickness combinations of washers fails to provide
> the desired outcome a different length of bolt will be required.
> You must avoid the Nylock nut thread locked to bolt shank condition in all
> cases and conditions. Failing to do so will defeat any reliable means of
> achieving proper torque settings.
> The condition of having the nut and bolt to the right torque without having
> the right bolt clamping pressure will result.
>
> I am open to correction on the subject.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler & O360 |
I just purchased one of the Aero Classic 9 row oil coolers for my O360
and am now trying to figure out where to mount it as it looks like there
will be trouble mounting it behind cylinder no. 4, have any of you
mounted your cooler behind no. 3 cylinder? This is a 6 and the 6A mount
may have more room since the gear legs aren't part of the engine mount.
Any ideas appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vac System Fittings... |
Hello,
Looking for a source for some Vac pump/system fittings. Have Century ADI
and HSI, with an Airborne Regulator. I guess Airborne has decided to price
themselves out of the vacuum system business (as explained to my by Chief
Aircraft they have done this as a result of lawsuits) with one fitting
costing $140 bucks and a vac regulator for $600!!!! Anyway...he said there
are some different sources out there for these fittings (1/2, 3/8, 5/8 in).
I have looked in the Chief/Wicks/ACS/Vans/Gulf Coast Avionics Catalogs with
no luck. Also looking for a source for the associated vacuum hose...any
ideas???
Kurt in OKC, RV6A..Finishing...Finishing...Finishing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses.... |
Hello Again....also looking for a source for custom made oil and fuel hoses
(pressure tested). Any specific places you recommend or don't recommend?
Any lessons learned?
Thanks...Kurt in OKC...RV6A Finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses.... |
Varga Enterprises. http://www.vargaair.com
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses....
>
> Hello Again....also looking for a source for custom made oil and fuel
hoses
> (pressure tested). Any specific places you recommend or don't recommend?
> Any lessons learned?
>
> Thanks...Kurt in OKC...RV6A Finishing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vac System Fittings... |
In a message dated 5/24/2002 6:11:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)aol.com writes:
> I guess Airborne has decided to price
> themselves out of the vacuum system business (as explained to my by Chief
> Aircraft they have done this as a result of lawsuits) with one fitting
> costing $140 bucks and a vac regulator for $600!!!! Anyway...he said there
>
> are some different sources out there for these fittings (1/2, 3/8, 5/8 in).
>
> I have looked in the Chief/Wicks/ACS/Vans/Gulf Coast Avionics Catalogs with
>
> no luck. Also looking for a source for the associated vacuum hose...
Wag Aero seems to have the best pricing on these fittings but they don't
carry them all. Rapco makes a complete kit but so far they won't sell their
fittings separately. You might try calling them again to see if they have
changed their minds.
The inexpensive fiber reinforced clear vinyl hose that is available at
hardware stores is sufficiently rigid and works fine.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How many bolt threads showing? |
In a message dated 5/24/2002 5:43:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com writes:
> Also, for
> nyloc nuts, it's very important not to short thread for fear of loosing the
> locking mechanism. To make it simple for everyone, we probably ought to
> follow the tried and true guideline and not deviate unless all the details
> are fully explored and known.
Another thing no one has mentioned to gain a skosh more thread projection out
the end of the locknut is that full tensile all metal locknuts can be
substituted directly or get half thickness washers.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses.... |
I had good luck with Herber Acft Services (in Trade A Plane)... their quote
was half of Varga
John RV8qb
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses....
Hello Again....also looking for a source for custom made oil and fuel hoses
(pressure tested). Any specific places you recommend or don't recommend?
Any lessons learned?
Thanks...Kurt in OKC...RV6A Finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Vac System Fittings... |
You can get "gently" used fittings from any spare parts place. I bought
mine from wentworth aircraft "http://www.wentworthaircraft.com" for
$25-35.00, as have many of my co-builders here in the cities. There is NO
reason to pay a hundred bucks for a stupid fitting.
As far as hose goes, try your local Ace Hardware, Fleet Farm, Northern
Hydraulics, etc.. That's another thing you don't need to pay huge $$'s for!
Anyway, good luck,
Stein Bruch.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Vac System Fittings...
Hello,
Looking for a source for some Vac pump/system fittings. Have Century ADI
and HSI, with an Airborne Regulator. I guess Airborne has decided to price
themselves out of the vacuum system business (as explained to my by Chief
Aircraft they have done this as a result of lawsuits) with one fitting
costing $140 bucks and a vac regulator for $600!!!! Anyway...he said there
are some different sources out there for these fittings (1/2, 3/8, 5/8 in).
I have looked in the Chief/Wicks/ACS/Vans/Gulf Coast Avionics Catalogs with
no luck. Also looking for a source for the associated vacuum hose...any
ideas???
Kurt in OKC, RV6A..Finishing...Finishing...Finishing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses.... |
you may want to call Precision Hose Technologies in Tulsa- they are a
Stratoflex distributor- they make the hoses for our SL360 and XP360 as well
as 700 different aircraft hose kits- and they do outstanding work and have
been in business for years. 800-331-5946 ask for Robert Williams.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Huft [mailto:rv8tor(at)lazy8.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses....
I had good luck with Herber Acft Services (in Trade A Plane)... their quote
was half of Varga
John RV8qb
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses....
Hello Again....also looking for a source for custom made oil and fuel hoses
(pressure tested). Any specific places you recommend or don't recommend?
Any lessons learned?
Thanks...Kurt in OKC...RV6A Finishing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
In a message dated 05/23/2002 4:18:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dons6a(at)juno.com writes:
> I was going the raise
> the flaps & continue on, but the fuse had blown on the flaps. I had about
> 25 minutes, so decided to land. We think the 3 amp was too small for the
> wind loads, so I have installed a 5 amp & will test it.
>
Don- congratulations on the first flight! May I weigh in with an electrical
suggestion for the flap problem? Look over your flap motor wiring and decide
what the smallest gauge wiring is in that circuit. That's what you use to
size the fuse that must protect it. Use the largest amperage fuse that will
still protect that lightest wire in the run. Doing anything less (in terms
of fuse rating) will invite nuisance trips (blows, in your case) while adding
nothing to safety. Check this out with 'Lectric Bob on the avionics list if
in doubt. Oh, and carry a spare fuse. What a pain to be stuck with deployed
flaps after, say, a soft-field take-off from a cross-country fuel stop. Not
good.
Bill B
RV-6A with acres of breakers and never a flap motor trip out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Sport install |
Scot,
Try WWW.angle-of-attack.com
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly, RI airport)
>From: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AOA Sport install
>Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:35:07 -0700
>
>
>Someone has a web site with some great photos of the installation of the
>wing sensors for a AOA Sport. I had the web site book marked but now I
>can't seem to find it. Can someone remind me of who it was?
>
>do not achieve.
>
>scot
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | looking for building help on canopy and cowling for an 8 |
Greetings to the list.
I'm looking for some help finishing the canopy, cowling and baggage door
on my RV-8 project. I spent the last 14 months taking a break from my
working life to work on my RV full time. I loved it and ended up
changing the focus of my career because of it. I got the wings finished
and on, engine mounted and started, panel installed and almost every
system completed. The only big jobs that remain are canopy, cowling and
baggage door. Although it has been a difficult realization, I'm coming
to the conclusion that the new job I accepted is going to take almost
all of my time in the near future. I can't stand putting the project on
hold and not being able to fly in this gorgeous weather. But I'm
recognizing that I'm not going to have the time (or patience) to finish
it soon. So I'm looking for an experienced builder that might be able
to do the canopy, cowling and door for me. Do you know of anybody in
the Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana or Southern Illinois area that might be
able to help? I'd like to find an experienced 8 builder who might be
able to make shorter work of those areas than I could.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have.
Parker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
I just wanted to pass on a great experience with this company:
Strobes 'n More www.strobesnmore.com
I bought a power pack (capable of 4 strobe inputs), 2 - 15ft shielded
cables, and 2 strobe lights.
All for $154 US including shipping. The instructions are well done and the
wiring is simple. You can
even wire them for give low or high power flashes.
During installation I broke one of the strobe lights (the actual lights do
not have glass covers which is the
only down side I think) and they replaced it for free.
Excellent service. Highly recommended.
I'm trying to convince them to go to Oshkosh next year but they say they are
busy enough as it is.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | ELT trips when com is triggered |
I finally got a good opportunity to trouble shoot my ACK ELT false trip
problem.
Symptoms:
ELT triggers after com radio transmit button is pushed, typically about once
every 10-15 transmits.
Set-up:
ELT
ACK E-01 ELT w/Duracell batteries
Mounted on forward floor of RV-4 baggage
Antenna mounted next to roll bar under canopy
Remote set/reset button mounted in console sub panel
Radio
Microair 760 Com radio
Antenna mounted mid-way between baggage wall and vertical stabilizer
Trouble shooting steps:
-Disconnected remote set/reset from ELT, Still tripped
-Engine OFF, Master and COM powered, when the transmit button is pushed the
LED for the ELT can be seen flashing, it usually stops when transmit button
is released.
-Removed antenna connection at the ELT, still gets the LED flashing and an
occasional trip
-Replaced ELT with an identical unit from an other plane, same results
although this ELT doesnt stay triggered as easy.
-Placed ELT inside a steel jug to try and shield it from the com RF, it
didnt help any
The com appears to be inducing power internal to the ELT, triggering the ELT
. Since I get the same effect with a different ELT unit I dont think my
ELT is defective.
Is it possible my com could be too powerful and causing the trips on the
ELT?
Is there an effective way to shield the ELT from the RF coming off the com
antenna?
Anyone have any other ideas on solving this one?
Anyone have contact numbers or names for the people who make the ACK ELT
units?
Thanks,
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
| Subject: | another lock design |
Check out this new lock design...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/canopy/lock/index.htm
You may have to hit CTRL+F5 to reload the page...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Mike:
I haven't heard from you much. Where are you on the 6A? Did you get
transfered back to your town?
I am looking over the FAA AC for testing now. I have to get a program
going. I plane on cercling the field for 2-3 hours so I can settle down.
I checked out Sunday for the insurance Co. in a 6. I would not own one
of them things. Just as you settle in for a 3 point , you can't see the
runway.
and of course taxiing with out hitting some thing is just luck. I put .75
hours on the engine with 3 10 second full power runs & the commpressions
are all in the 70's execpt one that was 62. I don't know when I will get
any faith in the engine. It was my first.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
| Subject: | Last one... Canopy Lock... |
Check this one out... Last one, I promise... :o)
http://vondane.com/rv8a/canopy/lock/index.htm
You may have to hit CTRL+F5 to reload the page again...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Don Jordan wrote:
>
> I checked out Sunday for the insurance Co. in a 6. I would not own one
> of them things. Just as you settle in for a 3 point , you can't see the
> runway.
> and of course taxiing with out hitting some thing is just luck.
I'm with you.........don't know why anybody in their right mind would
own one of them thangs.....blind on takeoffs and landings.....tricky to
get to stay on the ground and pointed in the right direction after
landing, blind while on the taxiway.............
.............and the sexiest lookin' RVs out there...........a little
faster than the -A models........don't weigh as much as an
-A.............easier to build than a model "A"...........
Sorry.........feelin' particularly feisty on this Friday
afternoon....... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic.........I drilled the holes myself)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props |
Hello all,
I am still reading Tony Bingelis' firewall forward and engines books so
I am still a bit uneducated - bear with me.
In the real world experience of those flying RVs, can anyone quantify
the compromises that come with a fixed pitch vs. a constant speed prop?
I am thinking of a 180 hp engine and am leaning towards a fixed pitch
due to weight and cost savings and simplicity of operation and
maintenance issues. What will I give up in absolute cruise speed vs. a
constant speed, and what will I give up in climb / short field
performance? I know the pitch of the fixed prop determines these facts
and is a compromise between best climb and best cruise performance.
What kind of performance numbers in each condition are those with fixed
pitched installations seeing? Will I give up a couple knots in cruise
or much more.....?
Are Vans' performance numbers in the literature based on a constant
speed installation (RV-7)?
Thanks again to all you builders for helping this learning pup.
Pete E.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: another lock design |
02:42:52 PM
Hey, out there in internet land somewhere is a similar lock someone made
where the lock serves as a push tube which rotates a cam and drives a rod
up through the sill to lock the canopy. Not as simple but as I remember was
pretty interesting. It may have been in an rvator. Anyone remember?
Bill VonDane(at)matronics.com on 05/24/2002 01:08:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
, rv-list
cc:
Subject: RV-List: another lock design
Check out this new lock design...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/canopy/lock/index.htm
You may have to hit CTRL+F5 to reload the page...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT trips when com is triggered |
Ack Technologies, Inc., CA (408/287-8021)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT trips when com is triggered
I finally got a good opportunity to trouble shoot my ACK ELT false trip
problem.
Symptoms:
ELT triggers after com radio transmit button is pushed, typically about once
every 10-15 transmits.
Set-up:
ELT
ACK E-01 ELT w/Duracell batteries
Mounted on forward floor of RV-4 baggage
Antenna mounted next to roll bar under canopy
Remote set/reset button mounted in console sub panel
Radio
Microair 760 Com radio
Antenna mounted mid-way between baggage wall and vertical stabilizer
Trouble shooting steps:
-Disconnected remote set/reset from ELT, Still tripped
-Engine OFF, Master and COM powered, when the transmit button is pushed the
LED for the ELT can be seen flashing, it usually stops when transmit button
is released.
-Removed antenna connection at the ELT, still gets the LED flashing and an
occasional trip
-Replaced ELT with an identical unit from an other plane, same results
although this ELT doesnt stay triggered as easy.
-Placed ELT inside a steel jug to try and shield it from the com RF, it
didnt help any
The com appears to be inducing power internal to the ELT, triggering the ELT
. Since I get the same effect with a different ELT unit I dont think my
ELT is defective.
Is it possible my com could be too powerful and causing the trips on the
ELT?
Is there an effective way to shield the ELT from the RF coming off the com
antenna?
Anyone have any other ideas on solving this one?
Anyone have contact numbers or names for the people who make the ACK ELT
units?
Thanks,
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Vac. Sytem Fittings |
In reference to $600 vacuum regulator and $140 fittings. I bought these
from salvage for less than $150 total and will use non aviation hoses
for vacuum in a full gyro but VFR application.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD
Minnesota
RV6 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
If Don ever gets an RV6, he can ship it to me and I'll fly it to keep it
from getting rusty. I'll even let him buy the gas... How's that for a deal?
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
Don Jordan wrote:
>
> I checked out Sunday for the insurance Co. in a 6. I would not own one
> of them things. Just as you settle in for a 3 point , you can't see the
> runway.
> and of course taxiing with out hitting some thing is just luck.
I'm with you.........don't know why anybody in their right mind would
own one of them thangs.....blind on takeoffs and landings.....tricky to
get to stay on the ground and pointed in the right direction after
landing, blind while on the taxiway.............
.............and the sexiest lookin' RVs out there...........a little
faster than the -A models........don't weigh as much as an
-A.............easier to build than a model "A"...........
Sorry.........feelin' particularly feisty on this Friday
afternoon....... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic.........I drilled the holes myself)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
\"RV-list\"" ,
"Marc Wiese" ,
"Mark Langford"
| Subject: | Re: Permanent Magnet Alternator-John Deere |
Roger, I took your e-mail with the 35 amp alternator part number -
AM877957 - and that is what he used to call up the schematic he printed for
me. As a matter of interest, their drawings and schematics are keyed to the
tractor or implement model, not the alternator iteself. The schematic I
picked up yesterday was for a tractor model number "670-770-870-970-1070" )
which is 5 different tractor model numbers separated by hyphens. They
apparently have a common electrical system. However, it does not
differentiate between 20amp & 35amp. I will go back and explicitely find
out if there is a different schematic for the 20 and for the 35 amp
alternators.
Well, I just returned from Deere. Here's the result: We looked at a 20
amp alternator - had 2 wires about 10 inches long terminating in a connector
with 2 male spades, in T configuration (one across, other perpendicular to
that one) - both were blue.
- We determined that the schematic color coded wires refer to wires in
the tractor's wiring harnesses, and don't apply to the wires from the
alternator. He did not have any model tractor on premises to see which
color coded regulator wire went to the "top of the T", and which went to the
stem. If you can get your dealer to do that for you, you will be "home
free".
- NEW INFO: 1) The 35 amp alternator has a newer part number - the old
AM877957 is superceded by AM880339.
2) The info I had previously was that the same "rectifier regulator",
AM101406, was used with both the 20 and 35 amp alternators. NEW INFO:
There is a separate rectifier regulator, AM877958, which is for the 35 amp
alternator.
3) The old regulator had spade connections to attach wires to - no
harness.
4) The new 35amp regulator has a short harness on it - if you get
that harness, then you may find the 2 wires shown in schematic that run to
the alternator (maybe 3 wires for 3 wire alternator) will be in a 2 or 3
hole connector shell that will match the alternator. Thus, the "keying" of
the wires into the connectors will assure correct alternator-to-regulator
connection.
- If/when you get this new regulator (try to exchange the one you
have), then I'd make definite note of where the "blue" wire in schematic
goes - to the top of the T or the stem, in the alternator's connector -- and
then paint some "white" on the alternator's wire that connects to the
"blue-white wire to the alternator" - just for future ref in case the
connector has to be cut off for another connector when wiring the actual
airplane.
I didn't make the effort to see if there was a separate schematic for the 35
amp regulator and alternator - didn't seem to be "do-able" at the moment.
However, for future ref, the schematic was labled "Group 20 Electrical
System Schematic" in top left and "670-770-870-970-1070 ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC
(OLD VERSION)" in the top right corner. The page number at bottom left was
"240-20-1". They also printed an "Electrical System Diagnosis/Test/Test
Points" page 240-15-21 for "Compact Utility Tractor". Lower left corner was
labled TM1470 (15 MAR90).
- I think I'll contact Deere thru their website and ask for the
different schematic. I got a fast response on a question about their
coolant (different topic for a different e-mail). I'll see if they will
help us - will be after holiday next Monday so expect more later next week.
- As far as you local guys not having the "technical manuals containing
the schematics", they should be looking on their computer screen. Actually,
the service guy who printed them went in back where I couldn't see him to
print them so I don't know where he got them - the folks running the two
computers at the front counter may not have access to anything other than
"parts" info. So, ask them to get a service guy to work with you to find
the schematics.
--- I just called back and the guy at front desk says you
definitely have to ask a "service" guy, not a "parts" guy to find the
schematics. Said they used to have "tech manuals" but has been converted to
"computer display" now - hope you local dealer can help you.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers(at)FDIC.gov>
Subject: RE: Permanent Magnet Alternator-John Deere
> If you could get a copy, that would be great! The company I am dealing
with
> can order parts, but they do not work on the model of lawn tractor that
> these alternators are on, and they do not have the technical manuals that
> contain the schematics. You could either scan it onto your computer and
> e-mail it as an attachment or you could mail it to me at:
>
> Bob J. Rogers
> 1825 Geneva Lane
> Plano, TX 75075
>
> Your assistance is most appreciated.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter(at)datarecall.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 11:40 PM
> To: Rogers, Bob J.
> Subject: Re: Permanent Magnet Alternator-John Deere
>
>
> Do you want me to get the schematic for the 35 amp printed off and mail it
> to you? Sounds like you don't have a Deere dealer near you - if you do, I
> think they will be willing to print it for you. I told them it was going
on
> a boat.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers(at)FDIC.gov>
> To: "'David Carter'" ; "Mike Wills"
>
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: RE: Permanent Magnet Alternator-John Deere
>
>
> > I have the schematic that you describe. My alternator has three wires
> which
> > are all of equal size and color (solid blue). All three are "power"
> wires.
> > The parts catalog from John Deere shows that the 35-amp alternator has
> three
> > wires coming from it as compared to just two wires for the 20-amp
> > alternator. I do not currently have access to any schematic diagram for
> > wiring the 35-amp alternator, so I do not know where the third wire
goes,
> > but I am reasonably certain that it is not just for an indicator light.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter(at)datarecall.net]
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Bill:
I did the behind the panel fuse deal of Bob's. When I finally got ot
91.205 for the night VFR.
I found the fusses need to be accessable which they are not in my case.
In the case you mentioned, I could put a new fuse in on the ground & go.
I haven't had time yet , but I measured all my currents & I think a 3 amp
got in there.
Of course I wasn't measuring the real world.
Will have to get van's paper work out & see what they call out. I know I
used there switch & wire.
I think the air loads caused the high current & the right fuse for the
wire will fix it.
I just talked to a guy that lost his boost pump in the air. So I think I
may re-think some of them for breakers.
I have my Alternator & autopilot on breakers.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
> Don- congratulations on the first flight! May I weigh in with an
> electrical
> suggestion for the flap problem? Look over your flap motor wiring
> and decide
> what the smallest gauge wiring is in that circuit. That's what you
> use to
> size the fuse that must protect it. Use the largest amperage fuse
> that will
> still protect that lightest wire in the run. Doing anything less
> (in terms
> of fuse rating) will invite nuisance trips (blows, in your case)
> while adding
> nothing to safety. Check this out with 'Lectric Bob on the avionics
> list if
> in doubt. Oh, and carry a spare fuse. What a pain to be stuck with
> deployed
> flaps after, say, a soft-field take-off from a cross-country fuel
> stop. Not
> good.
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A with acres of breakers and never a flap motor trip out.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I'm working in the engine compartment and wondered about general rules
of do's and don'ts regarding securing wiring and thermocouple wires.
Rather than putting adel clamps all over is it common to use plastic tie
straps around the engine mount to secure wiring? Are there "high-temp"
plastic tie straps? Are there chafing concerns vibrating the strap into
the wire? At points close to exhaust pipes will general cooling air
keep tie straps from melting? Any other tips or suggestions?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vac System Fittings... |
Hi Kurt,
I went throught the same problem getting fittings for my Sigma-Tec vac pump.
Aircraft Spruce carries Airborne fittings, but they are very expensive.
Couldn't find them anywhere else. I used a 90 degree port on each side and
they were about $45 each. If you use a 120 degree on the exhaust instead of
a 90 degree, it will run about $180! For vac hose I used the Stratoflex
hose from Wicks and it was from $3 to $5 per foot. Bought a vac regulator
and gauge from the guy that had the salvaged Velocity that was featured in
Sport Aviation a few months ago. A like new reg and guage was $100.
Aircraft Spruce has regs for around $200.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vac System Fittings...
>
> Hello,
>
> Looking for a source for some Vac pump/system fittings. Have Century
ADI
> and HSI, with an Airborne Regulator. I guess Airborne has decided to
price
> themselves out of the vacuum system business (as explained to my by Chief
> Aircraft they have done this as a result of lawsuits) with one fitting
> costing $140 bucks and a vac regulator for $600!!!! Anyway...he said
there
> are some different sources out there for these fittings (1/2, 3/8, 5/8
in).
> I have looked in the Chief/Wicks/ACS/Vans/Gulf Coast Avionics Catalogs
with
> no luck. Also looking for a source for the associated vacuum hose...any
> ideas???
>
> Kurt in OKC, RV6A..Finishing...Finishing...Finishing....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props |
I've been considering the same thing for the same reason's and I think the
best reason for a constant speed prop is not how much faster it will go but
how much faster it can slow you down! From what I've been hearing, It's
tough to get these things going slow enough to get the flaps out.
Wayne
RV-8A qb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props
> In the real world experience of those flying RVs, can anyone quantify
> the compromises that come with a fixed pitch vs. a constant speed prop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses.... |
Kurt,
I am making Aeroquip hoses using fittings and hose from Summit Racing. I
have a friend who works for a division of Aeroquip iindustries in Guthrie
and I and going to see if they will pressure test them. I will let you know
how it goes.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for Oil/Fuel Hoses....
>
> Hello Again....also looking for a source for custom made oil and fuel
hoses
> (pressure tested). Any specific places you recommend or don't recommend?
> Any lessons learned?
>
> Thanks...Kurt in OKC...RV6A Finishing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
JT,
thanks for putting this back on the list server, that's what I intended as I
suspect that many folks didn't realize they can't let someone else fly their
plane and be covered without some preplanning.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Riley <Richard(at)Riley.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output |
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Have you looked at Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS/Lite? Very similar to the
Dynon, but actually shipping.
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
>
>FYI, just in case anyone else is interested, the Dynon unit (if/when it
>ever becomes available) will have an encoder output to the transponder
>eliminating the need for a separate encoder. Nice feature that I hope to
>use....
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A finish kit endless fiberglass....
>
>--------------------------------------------------------
>
>Mark,
>
>No, the encoder will act as we noted before. Thank you for the heads up,
>and we will clarify that on the website!
>
>Thank you and have a great day.
>
>Gillian C. Torode
>
>Business Manager
>Dynon Development Inc.
>19501 144th Ave NE
>Suite C-500
>Woodinville, WA 98072
>(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
>To: gillian(at)dynondevelopment.com
>Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
>
>Hi Gillian, just looking at your update FAQ's on your website and it has
>the following:
>
>What instruments/avionics will the EFIS-D10 connect to/communicate with?
> The EFIS-D10, as presently specified and developed, is a
>stand-alone instrument that does not communicate with
> any other instruments or avionics. Future upgrades will
>allow
>the instrument to communicate with a second EFIS-D10
> as well as future products from Dynon Development.
>Communication with other manufacturer's products is still under
> consideration.
>
>Does this mean you've changed your previous plans to include an encoder
>output which would interface with transponders? If not you might want to
>clarify on the FAQ's....
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A finish kit stuff, starting wiring soon...
>
>"Gillian Torode" on 11/12/2001 12:55:31 PM
>
>To:
>cc:
>
>Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
>
>
>Mark,
>
>Yes, the encoder output will come standard and connect to a (mode C)
>transponder.
>
>Thank you for your interest in our product.
>
>Gillian C. Torode
>
>Business Manager
>Dynon Development Inc.
>19501 144th Ave NE
>Suite C-500
>Woodinville, WA 98072
>(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
>To: info(at)dynondevelopment.com
>Subject: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
>
>Will the D-10 have a standard output with encoder data that can be
>connected to a transponder? Does this feature cost extra?
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traffic Proximity Alert System |
I am the Safety Pilot for a large pilot school where we have over sixty
aircraft. We have recently signed a contract to install the RYAN 9900BX TCAD
(Traffic Collision Avoidance Device) systems in every aircraft. This system
is an active system and provides a voice alert of the traffic advisory. We
felt this was a very beneficial feature when considering the outside scan
necessary for avoiding the Mid Air conflict potential.
If you have any questions about our selection process, please contact me
off-list and I would be glad to share some information.
Greg Schmidt
RV-6S N250GS
Final stages of avionics testing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing wiring |
Hi Dave,
After wiring my RV-6A, firewall forward, I asked an A&P mechanic to look it
over for me and he gave me some advice.
He showed me how some of the tie wraps that I had around the engine mount
tubes could easily slide back and forth. He said imagine what would happen
if they got a little oil on them. What he has me do was cut them off and
then wrap a couple of turns of black friction tape around the tube wherever
I was going to have a tie wrap. He also had me use all black tie wraps in
the engine compartment. Pull the tie wraps nice and tight and they won't
chafe to wires.
The other thing I learned from the A&P was that there are differences in the
adel clamps used for the plug wires. They are actually square in shape to
accept the four plug wires and rectangular in shape for two plug wires.
Regular adel clapms are round and don't have this sqare shape to them. I
used all plug wire adel clamps for the plug wires and no tie wraps. Keep the
plug wires together as long as possible from the time they leave the magneto
until they get to the plugs. He had me add a clamp for the bottom plug
wires running to the forward cylinders. They were hanging in mid air for
too long of a length. I added a single wire clamp, supporting the plug
wire, attached to the bottom screw of the rocker arm cover for the aft
cylinders. I ended up adding a couple of washers between the clamp and the
rocker arm cover so the clamp wouldn't crush the lip that runs around the
rocker arm cover gasket area.
The only other thing he said was to try and keep the wires in bundles as
much as possible. Try to have them all come out of the firewall together
and stay bundled together until they need to branch out to an item that they
hook to. This adds strength and looks better too.
I hope some of this makes sense and helps.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: Securing wiring
>
> I'm working in the engine compartment and wondered about general rules
> of do's and don'ts regarding securing wiring and thermocouple wires.
> Rather than putting adel clamps all over is it common to use plastic tie
> straps around the engine mount to secure wiring? Are there "high-temp"
> plastic tie straps? Are there chafing concerns vibrating the strap into
> the wire? At points close to exhaust pipes will general cooling air
> keep tie straps from melting? Any other tips or suggestions?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output |
Listers:
I ordered the Blue Mountain EFIS Light way back in Mid March with a promised
date of delivery for 6 weeks. I ordered again in Mid April as they advised
they "misunderstood and my order was never processed" Even though I gave
them my CC info. I called 10 days ago to find out what was happening and
was advised that they were building them at a rate of two a day and my order
was comming up and it would be longer than promised and again "how do you
want to pay?". WOW, three times I have given them my CC info. After
begging for delivery as it is the only device not installed except a radio
and stuff from John Stark and I am racing to go to Osh Gosh, I was promised
an "early delivery" last week. Did it arrive? NOOOOOOOO! Has anyone
actually been delivered one of these units. I am thinking that all of the
companies that have designed prototypes are way far from and actual
marketable device.
Does it sound like I'm dissapointed? YUP!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Riley" <Richard(at)Riley.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output
>
> Have you looked at Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS/Lite? Very similar to the
> Dynon, but actually shipping.
>
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
> >
> >FYI, just in case anyone else is interested, the Dynon unit (if/when it
> >ever becomes available) will have an encoder output to the transponder
> >eliminating the need for a separate encoder. Nice feature that I hope to
> >use....
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A finish kit endless fiberglass....
> >
> >--------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >Mark,
> >
> >No, the encoder will act as we noted before. Thank you for the heads up,
> >and we will clarify that on the website!
> >
> >Thank you and have a great day.
> >
> >Gillian C. Torode
> >
> >Business Manager
> >Dynon Development Inc.
> >19501 144th Ave NE
> >Suite C-500
> >Woodinville, WA 98072
> >(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
> >To: gillian(at)dynondevelopment.com
> >Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
> >
> >Hi Gillian, just looking at your update FAQ's on your website and it has
> >the following:
> >
> >What instruments/avionics will the EFIS-D10 connect to/communicate with?
> > The EFIS-D10, as presently specified and developed, is a
> >stand-alone instrument that does not communicate with
> > any other instruments or avionics. Future upgrades will
> >allow
> >the instrument to communicate with a second EFIS-D10
> > as well as future products from Dynon Development.
> >Communication with other manufacturer's products is still under
> > consideration.
> >
> >Does this mean you've changed your previous plans to include an encoder
> >output which would interface with transponders? If not you might want to
> >clarify on the FAQ's....
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A finish kit stuff, starting wiring soon...
> >
> >"Gillian Torode" on 11/12/2001 12:55:31 PM
> >
> >To:
> >cc:
> >
> >Subject: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
> >
> >
> >Mark,
> >
> >Yes, the encoder output will come standard and connect to a (mode C)
> >transponder.
> >
> >Thank you for your interest in our product.
> >
> >Gillian C. Torode
> >
> >Business Manager
> >Dynon Development Inc.
> >19501 144th Ave NE
> >Suite C-500
> >Woodinville, WA 98072
> >(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat(at)rockwellcollins.com]
> >To: info(at)dynondevelopment.com
> >Subject: EFIS D-10 encoder output?
> >
> >Will the D-10 have a standard output with encoder data that can be
> >connected to a transponder? Does this feature cost extra?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: RE: EFIS D-10 encoder output |
Richard Riley wrote:
>
>
> Have you looked at Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS/Lite? Very similar to the
> Dynon, but actually shipping.
Not yet shipping...............
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain delivery problems |
David Aronson wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> I ordered the Blue Mountain EFIS Light way back in Mid March with a promised
> date of delivery for 6 weeks. I ordered again in Mid April as they advised
> they "misunderstood and my order was never processed" Even though I gave
> them my CC info. I called 10 days ago to find out what was happening and
> was advised that they were building them at a rate of two a day and my order
> was comming up and it would be longer than promised and again "how do you
> want to pay?". WOW, three times I have given them my CC info. After
> begging for delivery as it is the only device not installed except a radio
> and stuff from John Stark and I am racing to go to Osh Gosh, I was promised
> an "early delivery" last week. Did it arrive? NOOOOOOOO! Has anyone
> actually been delivered one of these units. I am thinking that all of the
> companies that have designed prototypes are way far from and actual
> marketable device.
> Does it sound like I'm dissapointed? YUP!
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
Unfortunately, Dave's account seems to be the norm among those of us who
are trying to get delivery of our Blue Mtn equipment. Dave is the sixth
individual I have heard describe their Blue Mtn experience and we all
seem to be having the same problems.
In addition to my EFIS/Lite, there are two EFIS/One systems in the works
at DCU; my Lite has not been delivered in spite of a deposit paid in
early January (!?!)(delivery promised in 6-8 weeks), one of the EFIS/One
systems is AWOL except for autopilot servos, and the other system became
operational in the past week (it is reportedly the first flying customer
EFIS/One in our area of the nation, and the owner seems to be quite
impressed with his EFIS).
Missed deadlines, unfulfilled promises, unreturned phone calls and,
shall we say, uh, "casual" office record keeping seems to be the norm.
This is especially unfortunate since the Blue Mountain systems are
incredibly impressive pieces of hardware! Hopefully the Blue Mtn gang
will figure out how to produce and support their product in a timely
manner before they run off all the prospective customers!
If/when I receive my Lite, I shall inform the list and will report as
usual on how the unit performs. Hopefully the nest report will be more
upbeat than this one. I fully realize that it is often very difficult to
bring a new technology to market, but that is no excuse for misleading
customers who have already paid money up front.
We are big boys......just level with us when the product will ACTUALLY
ship......we can handle it....... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
<>
Hmmmm. Back in the "old days", the "kits" were pretty much a pile of the
aluminum, fiberglass and steel you needed to build the airplane. The
welded parts were welded and the leading edges were bent, thankfully.
But that was about it. No predrilled holes, no pre-aligned much of
anything. There were many parts that needed to be "fixed" to satisfy the
specifications of the construction floor foreman at the factory: ME. At
the Kelli and Michael Aircraft Factory.
And the kits now are a VAST improvement over the good old days. And, by
the way, they represent one of the best, if not THE best kits on the
market today for the best design in the air today. Witness the number of
airplanes flying.
SO: in defense of Van, it is a splendid design, every bit of it. I found
nothing chinzy in the kit, especially compared to what I had to build an
airplane with before the kit arrived: nothing. Well, the Aircraft Spruce
and Specialty catalog. That was our previous choice. If I wasn't happy
with something, I changed it or modified it.
What goes into the finished aircraft is the decision of the factory:
you. Not happy with something? Make it better. Don't like the design of
something? Change it (except for the fuel system). It's your airplane,
not Van's. He's just helping you get it into the air faster than if
everything came from AS&S. Could things be designed better? Sure. RV-6
is now RV-better-design-7. Are things perfect? No. It's a less than
perfect world. My airplane, however, is one of the best built airplanes
and best flying airplanes I have ever been in. Nuff said.
IMHO only.
Michael
Ain't no chinzy parts in MY airplane...............
And archive this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
In a message dated 5/25/02 8:32:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
> Jim - do you recall which RV model that was?
>
Not a clue as to the model. Camera was angles out the RH side of aircraft
about 45 degrees and it appears that there were 12 revolutions done.
Recovery appeared almost instantaneous. Check the video clips on the
matronics web site. I'm not sure if that is where I got it. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morrow" <dfmorrow(at)toast.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop damage |
If the Captain won't listen to you, try and get him to look at the Hartzell
website, http://www.hartzellprop.com/flight_safety/index_safety.htm
scroll down to Preflight Considerations. They say anything less that 1/32
inch deep or wide can be deferred to the next scheduled maintenance except
if there are a "preponderance of nicks" they should dressed out immediately.
Dan Morrow
RV8A Building Empennage slowly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A Short N-number Tale... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I wrote this up for my local chapter newsletter (you can tell
they're desperate for content!) and thought somebody else might benefit
from my experience.....I know Randall Henderson has N6R, anybody else on
the list have a short (3-character) N-number?
----------------------------
Ever since I decided to paint my RV-8A using the military scheme from the
USAF's new primary trainer, the T-6A Texan II, I have been on a quest for
a very short N-number. I didn't want to mess up the appearance of the
military look with a big long N-number down the side of the fuselage or
tail. The T-6A, like most military aircraft, has various identifying
markings on the tail. One of the markings is a 3-digit number unique to
each aircraft. I want to use this location for my N-number, and it just
so happens that the shortest N-number allowed by the regs is three
characters long, including the N prefix. Actually, to be completely
accurate, N1 through N9 are valid two-character N-numbers but the FAA
permanently owns them, along with the entire numeric series up through
N99. So if my math is correct, this leaves only 216 alpha-numeric
combinations for three-character N-numbers that are available to
non-bureaucrats like myself. As you might imagine, they are all either
reserved or assigned to an aircraft, and it's not easy to find someone
willing to give up their coveted short N-number.
I decided it was worth a try, so I searched the online FAA reservation
database and wrote down names and addresses of all the reserved
three-character N-numbers. I sent out several dozen letters begging and
pleading for anyone willing to give up their number--even offering
compensation--but to no avail. Undeterred, I then searched the FAA
registration database and made a list of N-numbers assigned to aircraft
that seemed likely to be unairworthy....especially experimental aircraft
registered previous to 1980. Once again I mailed out letters to the last
known names and addresses given in the FAA database. The problem with
registered aircraft (compared to N-number reservations that must be
renewed annually) is that unless ownership changes, people usually don't
notify the FAA registry of address changes. So the vast majority of the
letters I mailed out for aircraft registered prior to 1980 came back
undeliverable. I got one or two responses from the current resident of
an address, usually saying that Ol' Joe moved 15 years ago and they have
no idea where he went or if his airplane was still flying. I suspect
there are many N-numbers that are assigned to aircraft which were
destroyed or rendered unairworthy, but never reported to the FAA. To
track down and get permission from the owner (or deceased owner's
grandkids) could be all but impossible.
Just when I was about to give up, I got a letter back from Dr. Everett
Coleman of Sacramento, Kentucky. He had registered his BD-5 with the
number N2D back in the 70's before it was complete, and he never got
around to finishing it. "You do the paperwork and N2D is your's" he
wrote. So I made up a letter for him to sign which stated that he wished
to deregister his BD-5 and transfer the N-number to me. I just received
official notification from the FAA yesterday that the transfer has been
completed, and November Two Delta is mine! The only drawback to having
such a short N-number, according to Dave Lammers (who obtained N6X for
his RV-6....but that's another story...), is that when you make initial
radio contact with ATC, the controllers often come back and request your
*complete* N-number. Dave told me it can be a bit of a hassle, but I
think I can live with it...
By the way, if anyone would like a BD-5 project, Dr. Coleman has one for
sale.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finishing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> I'm working in the engine compartment and wondered about general
> rules of do's and don'ts regarding securing wiring and thermocouple
wires.
Dave:
I came out the firewall with one bundle, then used the spiral wrap so I
could exit at each appliance.
I used adels to hold the bundle. Eric covered the plug wires.
I found a trick I like. Use fuel or vacuum hose about 1/4 or longer for
standoffs.
You want the tie to go around the wire through the hose, then over the
tube or line or other bundle.
That gives you an anti fretting set up. Same concept that the hot rodders
use when they put ties 90 degrees across the main tie holding four wires
together.
Look all the planes over under maintenace in the hangers for ideas.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
Were having a bit of a syphon problem on the wing tanks. It gets pretty
warm here in Florida, when the fuel heats up in the main it expands
through the vents. With the wing tanks full it then starts syphoning
(main vents) until the wing tip tanks empty, we suspect this is happening
in flight also. We have the one way valves installed. Any suggestions
besides installing check valves?
RV6A Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Pedal Bolts |
I posted here a few days ago whining about the standard method of
attaching the brake pedals to the rudders (RV-6A) and believe I've come
up with an improvement.
I ordered AN3-60 bolts from Wicks (page 76, $2.76/ea) and installed them
from one side of each pedal to the other. They are nominally 6" long
and required 3-1/2 to four washers under the castle nuts to position the
cotter pins properly. The pedals now operate perfectly, no binding and
NO twisting of the AN3-5 bolts as shown in the plans.
Anybody else done this or see any problems with it?
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - fuse almost done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
Joe,
Check the vent fitting inside the tank where it exits the tank.
Some of vans fast build tanks had loose fittings.
ray
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoel(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tanks
>
>
> Were having a bit of a syphon problem on the wing tanks. It gets pretty
> warm here in Florida, when the fuel heats up in the main it expands
> through the vents. With the wing tanks full it then starts syphoning
> (main vents) until the wing tip tanks empty, we suspect this is happening
> in flight also. We have the one way valves installed. Any suggestions
> besides installing check valves?
> RV6A Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Aerobatics in the RV-7 |
I think you are refering to the RV-8 videos. Bill Vondane may have a
link to them on his web site....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JNice51355(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002 12:53 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aerobatics in the RV-7
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/25/02 8:32:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
>
>
> > Jim - do you recall which RV model that was?
> >
>
> Not a clue as to the model. Camera was angles out the RH
> side of aircraft
> about 45 degrees and it appears that there were 12 revolutions done.
> Recovery appeared almost instantaneous. Check the video clips on the
> matronics web site. I'm not sure if that is where I got it.
> do not
> archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Don't know what the problem is in your case - can only throw out the
following observations which might generate a solution:
1) T-33 jet trainer wing tanks were notorious for building up pressure in
summer and spewing a 6" gyer of fuel if you were not slow in loosening the
cap and tightening right back up before it became unloced when fuel started
flowing out. Those wing tanks had to be vented. Why didn't they siphon?
2) Cessna 172/182 tanks do the same thing - they have vents (C-172 a single
vent on just one side, C-182 an vent on each side). They "drip" fuel when
get hot and will give the "gyser" if really topped off - but never heard of
one siphoning.
3) You mention one-way valves - there are two kinds: 1) (best for this
app) Seal with no significant pressure; 2) seal only when 1 psi (??)
pressure buildup, or some such. I'm citing what I've seen in catalogs.
- Maybe your check valve(s) is/are 1) defective or 2) wrong choice of
type of valve.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoel(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tanks
>
>
> Were having a bit of a syphon problem on the wing tanks. It gets pretty
> warm here in Florida, when the fuel heats up in the main it expands
> through the vents. With the wing tanks full it then starts syphoning
> (main vents) until the wing tip tanks empty, we suspect this is happening
> in flight also. We have the one way valves installed. Any suggestions
> besides installing check valves?
> RV6A Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain delivery problems |
I'm frustrated with them too. I put $2400 down on the EFIS/1 at SNF to
get the $500 show discount. They said $1500 more would ship the AP
servos. A couple weeks after SNF, I called to order the servos. I was
given three different prices, all greater than $1500 ...even from
Richard, who was the guy who quoted me the price at SNF. After I
reminded him of the quote at the show, he agreed. That was back in
April. I was told they would ship in two weeks.
When I called and spoke to Greg in early May, he said some component of
the AP had been redesigned, thus the delay. The new APs would ship
'real soon'. Nothing yet.
So here I sit. Most of the other panel components are in-hand (radios
from Stark arriving soon), but I dare not cut the panel until I have
everything. I hesitate to give Blue Mtn more money (for the screen,
keypad, etc), until I get the first things I've ordered.
I agree with Sam. PROACTIVE, HONEST COMMUNICATION goes a FREAKIN' LONG
WAY! If the there is a two year wait on servos, tell me. Giving me
"two weeks" repeatedly pisses me of, and is no way to business.
Unfortunately, I this scenario is all to common, esp. in aviation. I
thought BM was going to be different. I hope they get their act
together!
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002 12:45 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain delivery problems
>
>
>
>
> David Aronson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers:
> > I ordered the Blue Mountain EFIS Light way back in Mid March with a
> > promised date of delivery for 6 weeks. I ordered again in
> Mid April
> > as they advised they "misunderstood and my order was never
> processed"
> > Even though I gave them my CC info. I called 10 days ago
> to find out
> > what was happening and was advised that they were building
> them at a
> > rate of two a day and my order was comming up and it would
> be longer
> > than promised and again "how do you want to pay?". WOW,
> three times I
> > have given them my CC info. After begging for delivery as
> it is the
> > only device not installed except a radio and stuff from
> John Stark and
> > I am racing to go to Osh Gosh, I was promised an "early
> delivery" last
> > week. Did it arrive? NOOOOOOOO! Has anyone actually been
> delivered
> > one of these units. I am thinking that all of the
> companies that have
> > designed prototypes are way far from and actual marketable device.
> > Does it sound like I'm dissapointed? YUP! Dave Aronson
> > RV4 N504RV
>
>
> Unfortunately, Dave's account seems to be the norm among
> those of us who are trying to get delivery of our Blue Mtn
> equipment. Dave is the sixth individual I have heard describe
> their Blue Mtn experience and we all seem to be having the
> same problems.
>
> In addition to my EFIS/Lite, there are two EFIS/One systems
> in the works at DCU; my Lite has not been delivered in spite
> of a deposit paid in early January (!?!)(delivery promised in
> 6-8 weeks), one of the EFIS/One systems is AWOL except for
> autopilot servos, and the other system became operational in
> the past week (it is reportedly the first flying customer
> EFIS/One in our area of the nation, and the owner seems to be
> quite impressed with his EFIS).
>
> Missed deadlines, unfulfilled promises, unreturned phone
> calls and, shall we say, uh, "casual" office record keeping
> seems to be the norm. This is especially unfortunate since
> the Blue Mountain systems are incredibly impressive pieces of
> hardware! Hopefully the Blue Mtn gang will figure out how to
> produce and support their product in a timely manner before
> they run off all the prospective customers!
>
> If/when I receive my Lite, I shall inform the list and will
> report as usual on how the unit performs. Hopefully the nest
> report will be more upbeat than this one. I fully realize
> that it is often very difficult to bring a new technology to
> market, but that is no excuse for misleading customers who
> have already paid money up front.
>
> We are big boys......just level with us when the product will
> ACTUALLY ship......we can handle it....... ;-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Andair gascolator |
I've seen a lot of gascolator pix while surfing the net, but I've never
seen one that took advantage of the 9/16" mounting hole in the back of
the Andair. Why? I was thinking of mounting it on the firewall, via
the bolt hole and a couple of big flat washers and jam nuts. Anyone
gotta problem this that? :)
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Short N-number Tale... |
> ...The only drawback to having
> such a short N-number, according to Dave Lammers (who obtained N6X for
> his RV-6....but that's another story...), is that when you make initial
> radio contact with ATC, the controllers often come back and request your
> *complete* N-number. Dave told me it can be a bit of a hassle, but I
> think I can live with it...
I can testify to that! I wouldn't give up my short number but sometimes I
wonder. Like the time I got a controller who really had a hard time buying
my number, and kept sighing and acting like I was trying to put one over on
him. Or the one who kept adding digits, until by the end of the flight I'd
been "promoted" to a full five digit callsign! Happens all the time but I'm
used to it. I often say "that's my full callsign" on my initial call but
that only works about half the time.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~350 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler location |
After looking in the archives for oil cooler locations I ran across an
install in front of #2 cylinder in the lower baffle area. Seems like a
good location and seems to operate well according to reports but was
wondering if it takes away cooling air from #2 & 4 cylinders since less
air is forced that way. How are cylinder head temps affected?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain delivery problems |
I received a reply today from Greg Richter of Blue Mountain Avionics in
response to the cc'ed RV-List message I posted about EFIS delivery
problems. He requested, and I am happy to oblige, that I post his
response to the list.
Dave, I am sure you will be VERY interested in Greg's response; we will
update the list on how this latest chapter plays out.
Sam Buchanan
------------------
Sam,
I hope so too. Dave's tale is entirely, well, accurate except for the
CC
problem. I've yet to figure out what happened there. We have grown
from
one man's hobby to a small company in 8 months and it is has a real
challenge.
Good news on the EFIS/One's, they _are_ coming out at about two (2) per
day. The Lites are taking 2-3 days per unit. We have yours, Dave's and
two others in work this weekend and hope to have them out Tuesday. It's
a
slow go with these since they are so %#$$#
small. We've got about six
or
eight (I think) and we're caught up.
I apologize for the delays, and wish there was something I could do
about
them. The honest answer is that when suppliers like Sharp and Microsemi
promise 100 lots of parts on a given date, we bank on it and tell you
folks. Needless to say they (and Honeywell) have not delivered as
promised
and thus neither have we.
We now have enough parts in stock to get the backlog cleared up and the
machines out to people. Good news is that the people who fly them, love
them. Bad news is that we're not making them nearly as fast as we
hoped. My bust on that one, but I can't think of how to repair bad
delivery estimates, except by delivering, which is what we're doing.
As you can tell, I'm in on Saturday making Lites. If you want to fly up
this weekend (it's not far!) you can pick yours up. Again, sorry for
the
delays. It's bad news for us, although we are fixing it FAST. Come by
if
you can. If not, we'll send her UPS.
You can post this to the RV group if you like. No secrets here.
-Greg
=======================
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> David Aronson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers:
> > I ordered the Blue Mountain EFIS Light way back in Mid March with a promised
> > date of delivery for 6 weeks. I ordered again in Mid April as they advised
> > they "misunderstood and my order was never processed" Even though I gave
> > them my CC info. I called 10 days ago to find out what was happening and
> > was advised that they were building them at a rate of two a day and my order
> > was comming up and it would be longer than promised and again "how do you
> > want to pay?". WOW, three times I have given them my CC info. After
> > begging for delivery as it is the only device not installed except a radio
> > and stuff from John Stark and I am racing to go to Osh Gosh, I was promised
> > an "early delivery" last week. Did it arrive? NOOOOOOOO! Has anyone
> > actually been delivered one of these units. I am thinking that all of the
> > companies that have designed prototypes are way far from and actual
> > marketable device.
> > Does it sound like I'm dissapointed? YUP!
> > Dave Aronson
> > RV4 N504RV
>
> Unfortunately, Dave's account seems to be the norm among those of us who
> are trying to get delivery of our Blue Mtn equipment. Dave is the sixth
> individual I have heard describe their Blue Mtn experience and we all
> seem to be having the same problems.
>
> In addition to my EFIS/Lite, there are two EFIS/One systems in the works
> at DCU; my Lite has not been delivered in spite of a deposit paid in
> early January (!?!)(delivery promised in 6-8 weeks), one of the EFIS/One
> systems is AWOL except for autopilot servos, and the other system became
> operational in the past week (it is reportedly the first flying customer
> EFIS/One in our area of the nation, and the owner seems to be quite
> impressed with his EFIS).
>
> Missed deadlines, unfulfilled promises, unreturned phone calls and,
> shall we say, uh, "casual" office record keeping seems to be the norm.
> This is especially unfortunate since the Blue Mountain systems are
> incredibly impressive pieces of hardware! Hopefully the Blue Mtn gang
> will figure out how to produce and support their product in a timely
> manner before they run off all the prospective customers!
>
> If/when I receive my Lite, I shall inform the list and will report as
> usual on how the unit performs. Hopefully the nest report will be more
> upbeat than this one. I fully realize that it is often very difficult to
> bring a new technology to market, but that is no excuse for misleading
> customers who have already paid money up front.
>
> We are big boys......just level with us when the product will ACTUALLY
> ship......we can handle it....... ;-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props |
"Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
>
>
> I've been considering the same thing for the same reason's and I think the
> best reason for a constant speed prop is not how much faster it will go but
> how much faster it can slow you down! From what I've been hearing, It's
> tough to get these things going slow enough to get the flaps out.
No problem getting slowed down, you just have to learn to fly the plane
properly. Most 172 drivers aren't accustomed to reducing speed nearly
100 mph just to get down to flap speed......
THIS IS A GREAT PROBLEM TO HAVE!!!! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | First flight of N244DW |
Listers,
Just wanted to let you all know I had my first flight in my RV-6A this
morning. It was uneventful and,of course, spectacular at the same time. I
had help from Al Paulsen and Bill Fulgem yesterday and this morning
getting the plane ready to go and acting as safety and ground crew. You guys
were great. Thanks.
I was also able to have Mike Seager give me transition training in 'ole
blue' over the last couple weeks which made a world of difference in my skill
level and my confidence to fly my 6A.
Mike also flew N244DW for the initial 30-40 minute test flight and
confirmed that everything was rigged properly and functioning well. It was a
real comfort to have Mike do the initial testing with his thousands of RV
hours vs my 150 or so Cessna-150 hours over twenty years. When he gave it
thumbs up and it was my turn for a first flight, I was able to really enjoy
the experience.
N244DW exhibited a heavy left wing (needs aileron squeezed a bit) but
kept the ball centered without help (no rudder tab needed). The 0-360 A2A
and 72FM8S9-1-84 prop appear to be well matched with a 2710 RPM top end in
level flight. Cylinder head temps will need to be evened out but the engine
ran smooth and strong with 165kias at 2710 RPM at 1500 ft.(no gearleg pants
or wheel fairings installed yet). Stall was 46kias clean and 46kias with
full flaps.
Van's airplane kits are great and the Van's staff have been a big help
to me time and again. But I also want to thank Matt Dralle and the RV-list
members for all the help I recieved on the RV-list and in the archives. Like
a lot of people on the list, I only infrequently post directly to the list,
but I monitor the list daily and have gotten lots of tips and advice that
helped make my 6A better. This list is right up there with the local RV
builders and the Home Wing Builder's Group in its importance in helping me
solve problems and keep building to get to this day after six and a half
years. Thanks.
Keep building. It's worth it!
Dale Wotring
RV-6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight of N244DW |
congrats on your achievement. what fun it will be when you get the
wheelpants on and pick up another 7-10 knots! You now graduate to the
status of "flying" and your opinions now rank above those who are "just"
building :-) Kevin 800 hrs (notice this is more than Randall :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight of N244DW |
Dale,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly, RI airport)
From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: First flight of N244DW
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 21:05:00 EDT
-- RV-List message posted by: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Listers,
Just wanted to let you all know I had my first flight in my RV-6A this
morning. It was uneventful and,of course, spectacular at the same time. I
had help from Al Paulsen and Bill Fulgem yesterday and this morning
getting the plane ready to go and acting as safety and ground crew. You guys
were great. Thanks.
Keep building. It's worth it!
Dale Wotring
RV-6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/25/2002 12:11:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
planejoel(at)juno.com writes:
> Were having a bit of a syphon problem on the wing tanks. It gets pretty
> warm here in Florida, when the fuel heats up in the main it expands
> through the vents. With the wing tanks full it then starts siphoning
> (main vents) until the wing tip tanks empty, we suspect this is happening
> in flight also.
How is this possible? A siphon only works if the source is kept in the fluid
being siphoned. Once the fluid is below the tube it breaks the siphon. If
you installed your vent line at the top of your tank per plans this
physically can't happen.
Please explain so I can learn the new physics. I've been out of school for a
while.
FYI, the Thunder Mustang wing has a snorkel feature that catches the
expansion overflow from the fuel tank vent, burping it into the outer wing
bay when hot and sucks it back as it cools down just as the overflow
reservoir on your car radiator but without any valve or pressure cap.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler location |
>
> After looking in the archives for oil cooler locations I ran across an
> install in front of #2 cylinder in the lower baffle area. Seems like a
> good location and seems to operate well according to reports but was
> wondering if it takes away cooling air from #2 & 4 cylinders since less
> air is forced that way. How are cylinder head temps affected?
>
I have this setup. #1 and #3 tend to run hotter than #2 and #4.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain delivery problems |
Listers:
I am always incouraged when I hear this....I can just wait with the rest of
you at this point.
What this thread is really about is:. We "Experimenters" are willing to do
whatever it takes to incorporate the latest and greatest designs/ideas into
our projects. We are on the edge of some terrific changes in aircraft
instrumentation. Small companies like Blue Mountain and others are doing
everything their resources will allow to get to market with products. The
",LIST" allows for rapid information dissemination and also quick response
when that information focuses on a company or product. I complement Greg for
spending the time to follow the list and addressing our complaints today.
This is a good sign and I am hopeful that things work out well from here.
Our hobbys' future depends, somewhat, on the success of these small
companies. I am afraid that they usually do not dedicate resources to
customer service until they actually have customers. The lack of
information, as we wait and wait and wait ,is really the only problem we
have at this point. Now I just hope the product is worth wait!!!! More as
the days progress.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
All electric
Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blue Mountain delivery problems
>
> I received a reply today from Greg Richter of Blue Mountain Avionics in
> response to the cc'ed RV-List message I posted about EFIS delivery
> problems. He requested, and I am happy to oblige, that I post his
> response to the list.
>
> Dave, I am sure you will be VERY interested in Greg's response; we will
> update the list on how this latest chapter plays out.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ------------------
>
> Sam,
>
> I hope so too. Dave's tale is entirely, well, accurate except for the
> CC
> problem. I've yet to figure out what happened there. We have grown
> from
> one man's hobby to a small company in 8 months and it is has a real
> challenge.
>
> Good news on the EFIS/One's, they _are_ coming out at about two (2) per
> day. The Lites are taking 2-3 days per unit. We have yours, Dave's and
> two others in work this weekend and hope to have them out Tuesday. It's
> a
> slow go with these since they are so %#$$#
small. We've got about six
> or
> eight (I think) and we're caught up.
>
> I apologize for the delays, and wish there was something I could do
> about
> them. The honest answer is that when suppliers like Sharp and Microsemi
> promise 100 lots of parts on a given date, we bank on it and tell you
> folks. Needless to say they (and Honeywell) have not delivered as
> promised
> and thus neither have we.
>
> We now have enough parts in stock to get the backlog cleared up and the
> machines out to people. Good news is that the people who fly them, love
> them. Bad news is that we're not making them nearly as fast as we
> hoped. My bust on that one, but I can't think of how to repair bad
> delivery estimates, except by delivering, which is what we're doing.
>
> As you can tell, I'm in on Saturday making Lites. If you want to fly up
> this weekend (it's not far!) you can pick yours up. Again, sorry for
> the
> delays. It's bad news for us, although we are fixing it FAST. Come by
> if
> you can. If not, we'll send her UPS.
>
> You can post this to the RV group if you like. No secrets here.
>
> -Greg
>
> =======================
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> >
> > David Aronson wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Listers:
> > > I ordered the Blue Mountain EFIS Light way back in Mid March with a
promised
> > > date of delivery for 6 weeks. I ordered again in Mid April as they
advised
> > > they "misunderstood and my order was never processed" Even though I
gave
> > > them my CC info. I called 10 days ago to find out what was happening
and
> > > was advised that they were building them at a rate of two a day and my
order
> > > was comming up and it would be longer than promised and again "how do
you
> > > want to pay?". WOW, three times I have given them my CC info. After
> > > begging for delivery as it is the only device not installed except a
radio
> > > and stuff from John Stark and I am racing to go to Osh Gosh, I was
promised
> > > an "early delivery" last week. Did it arrive? NOOOOOOOO! Has anyone
> > > actually been delivered one of these units. I am thinking that all of
the
> > > companies that have designed prototypes are way far from and actual
> > > marketable device.
> > > Does it sound like I'm dissapointed? YUP!
> > > Dave Aronson
> > > RV4 N504RV
> >
> > Unfortunately, Dave's account seems to be the norm among those of us who
> > are trying to get delivery of our Blue Mtn equipment. Dave is the sixth
> > individual I have heard describe their Blue Mtn experience and we all
> > seem to be having the same problems.
> >
> > In addition to my EFIS/Lite, there are two EFIS/One systems in the works
> > at DCU; my Lite has not been delivered in spite of a deposit paid in
> > early January (!?!)(delivery promised in 6-8 weeks), one of the EFIS/One
> > systems is AWOL except for autopilot servos, and the other system became
> > operational in the past week (it is reportedly the first flying customer
> > EFIS/One in our area of the nation, and the owner seems to be quite
> > impressed with his EFIS).
> >
> > Missed deadlines, unfulfilled promises, unreturned phone calls and,
> > shall we say, uh, "casual" office record keeping seems to be the norm.
> > This is especially unfortunate since the Blue Mountain systems are
> > incredibly impressive pieces of hardware! Hopefully the Blue Mtn gang
> > will figure out how to produce and support their product in a timely
> > manner before they run off all the prospective customers!
> >
> > If/when I receive my Lite, I shall inform the list and will report as
> > usual on how the unit performs. Hopefully the nest report will be more
> > upbeat than this one. I fully realize that it is often very difficult to
> > bring a new technology to market, but that is no excuse for misleading
> > customers who have already paid money up front.
> >
> > We are big boys......just level with us when the product will ACTUALLY
> > ship......we can handle it....... ;-)
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> > "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Forum Oswego NY Sept 7th, 2002 |
Here is how we think it is shaping up so far:
2002 Northeast RV Forum, our Eight ANNUAL RV Builders' Forum
We will host many technical presentations as well there are vendor invites
out for their presence too. (Note: open for all Builders, Pilots and
Enthusiasts, everyone is welcome).
Oswego County Airport, Fulton, New York (KFZY).
Saturday, September 7, 2002, with evening banquet included.
Door prizes, OSHKOSH sized discount desk for orders.
With events over the entire weekend planned.
Mike Seager, the RV instructor, will give RV instruction rides, in Factory
RV6, timing and schedule TBD. Sign up openings/availability will be posted
later.
The Webmaster will be updating the site soon, so watch for other updates,
save link, web site at:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/index.html
OUR CONTINUED SUCCESS IN RV FORUMS STILL FEATURES:
Inexpensive builder, owner offered RV pleasure rides - weather, pilots, and
airplanes permitting. Technical lectures/presentations - to cover a broad
range of interesting subjects. A low Registration Fee which covers
Saturday's Forums &
Meals (Saturdays: continental breakfast, sandwich lunch, and buffet supper).
WEEKEND SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES:
Friday night - Sept. 6th, there will be an informal welcome at the hangar for
early arriving attendees/campers. Burgers could be had for a fee. Then
7:30PM Friday night our general EAA 486 monthly meeting takes place.
Saturday - all day Sept 7th, once again we will have the full day of
interesting seminars (subjects TBD) and activities. (meals included.)
Sunday morning Sept. 8th, EAA486 will host its regular monthly pancake
breakfast. If you haven't been to one of these you don't know what you are
missing. All flyer and drivers welcome to attend.
Oswego County Airport: (KFZY) is uncontrolled and can have no-radio traffic
in the pattern. KFZY is just under 10 mile Radius of 2 nuclear power plants,
and TFR's may effect which runway you are using, be briefed accordingly
please. Traffic pattern is 1300' msl. Please use normal pattern/radio
procedures and be careful! 24hr Self serve 100LL is available. See airport
directories and approach plates - we have a new ILS precision approach (freq.
110.9).
FOR THOSE DRIVING IN:
The airport is 45 minutes northwest of Syracuse. Take I-481 to Fulton, turn
Right on RT 3 at WENDY's, then go left onto RT 176 (see green DOT airport
sign), now just 2 miles out of town on Route 176 to the Northeast. The EAA
hangar is past the main airport road is on the Northwest side of the airport.
Enter the NEW LOCATION gate/fence at the EAA sign, directly behind the hanger
now.
Questions? Feel free to email me back in this subject line (or
McMand(at)aol.com) so I won't miss it in the daily RV list mass emails.
Thanks, Respectfully
David McManmon
President, EAA 486 Oswego Co...
Chairman, EAA 486 2002 RV Forum
N58DM RV6 Builder/Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight of N244DW |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Congratulations, Dale.
If you have half as much fun with yours as I have had so far with mine, you
will be very happy.
This month is our birthday, five years of flying!
D Walsh
(N244DW minus one! ........N133DW)
> From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 21:05:00 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: First flight of N244DW
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Just wanted to let you all know I had my first flight in my RV-6A this
> morning. It was uneventful and,of course, spectacular at the same time. I
> had help from Al Paulsen and Bill Fulgem yesterday and this morning
> getting the plane ready to go and acting as safety and ground crew. You guys
> were great. Thanks.
>
> I was also able to have Mike Seager give me transition training in 'ole
> blue' over the last couple weeks which made a world of difference in my skill
> level and my confidence to fly my 6A.
>
> Mike also flew N244DW for the initial 30-40 minute test flight and
> confirmed that everything was rigged properly and functioning well. It was a
> real comfort to have Mike do the initial testing with his thousands of RV
> hours vs my 150 or so Cessna-150 hours over twenty years. When he gave it
> thumbs up and it was my turn for a first flight, I was able to really enjoy
> the experience.
>
> N244DW exhibited a heavy left wing (needs aileron squeezed a bit) but
> kept the ball centered without help (no rudder tab needed). The 0-360 A2A
> and 72FM8S9-1-84 prop appear to be well matched with a 2710 RPM top end in
> level flight. Cylinder head temps will need to be evened out but the engine
> ran smooth and strong with 165kias at 2710 RPM at 1500 ft.(no gearleg pants
> or wheel fairings installed yet). Stall was 46kias clean and 46kias with
> full flaps.
>
> Van's airplane kits are great and the Van's staff have been a big help
> to me time and again. But I also want to thank Matt Dralle and the RV-list
> members for all the help I recieved on the RV-list and in the archives. Like
> a lot of people on the list, I only infrequently post directly to the list,
> but I monitor the list daily and have gotten lots of tips and advice that
> helped make my 6A better. This list is right up there with the local RV
> builders and the Home Wing Builder's Group in its importance in helping me
> solve problems and keep building to get to this day after six and a half
> years. Thanks.
>
> Keep building. It's worth it!
>
> Dale Wotring
> RV-6A
> Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | First flight of N244DW |
Congrats Dale!
-Glenn Gordon
N442E (29 hours)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gusndale(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002 8:05 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: First flight of N244DW
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Just wanted to let you all know I had my first flight in my
> RV-6A this
> morning. It was uneventful and,of course, spectacular at the
> same time. I
> had help from Al Paulsen and Bill Fulgem yesterday and
> this morning
> getting the plane ready to go and acting as safety and ground
> crew. You guys
> were great. Thanks.
>
> I was also able to have Mike Seager give me transition
> training in 'ole
> blue' over the last couple weeks which made a world of difference
> in my skill
> level and my confidence to fly my 6A.
>
> Mike also flew N244DW for the initial 30-40 minute test flight and
> confirmed that everything was rigged properly and functioning
> well. It was a
> real comfort to have Mike do the initial testing with his thousands of RV
> hours vs my 150 or so Cessna-150 hours over twenty years. When
> he gave it
> thumbs up and it was my turn for a first flight, I was able to
> really enjoy
> the experience.
>
> N244DW exhibited a heavy left wing (needs aileron squeezed a
> bit) but
> kept the ball centered without help (no rudder tab needed). The
> 0-360 A2A
> and 72FM8S9-1-84 prop appear to be well matched with a 2710 RPM
> top end in
> level flight. Cylinder head temps will need to be evened out but
> the engine
> ran smooth and strong with 165kias at 2710 RPM at 1500 ft.(no
> gearleg pants
> or wheel fairings installed yet). Stall was 46kias clean and 46kias with
> full flaps.
>
> Van's airplane kits are great and the Van's staff have
> been a big help
> to me time and again. But I also want to thank Matt Dralle and
> the RV-list
> members for all the help I recieved on the RV-list and in the
> archives. Like
> a lot of people on the list, I only infrequently post directly to
> the list,
> but I monitor the list daily and have gotten lots of tips and advice that
> helped make my 6A better. This list is right up there with the local RV
> builders and the Home Wing Builder's Group in its importance in
> helping me
> solve problems and keep building to get to this day after six and a half
> years. Thanks.
>
> Keep building. It's worth it!
>
> Dale Wotring
> RV-6A
> Vancouver, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Rudberg <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Hanger Space at Harvey Field (S43) |
Still available in the Seattle/Everett area. If you
need a really nice space for the next five or six
months, let me know.
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Sound insulation |
Anyone have any experience with these guys and their products for
sound/vibration insulation? I was thinking of sending away for the
sample pack....
http://www.b-quiet.com
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jeff Bertsch ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jeff Bertsch
Subject: Tbird Pictures
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mach25@swbell.net.05.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Cutting ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Cutting
Subject: O-290
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bob_Cutting@toyota.ca.05.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Cable Mount |
Wow, you guys really hit the man hard for passing along his problem with the
manual trim cable mount! Not sure why you all got so riled up.......I took
it as a heads up on a part that caused him problems, and could stand
improvement. Hey, he didn't mean the whole damned AIRPLANE when he said it
was a poor design.
And after looking at mine, I'd agree. The nut is welded to the plate only
on one very thin edge. I can see how it could easily flex and break. I
will see that mine is welded better before I install it. Thanks for the
heads up.
Gary
RV-9A
____
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vans kit parts
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator Pulleys |
Does anyone know of a good source for alternator pulleys? I have a
Nippon Denso alternator from a Geo Metro that I'm putting on my 0-320.
It has a 15 mm shaft. I know Spruce has them, at a healthy price, but
it seems there would be automotive pulleys of a suitable diameter (3
inches or so?) with the same pitch as the Lycoming pulley.
Thanks,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in |
hi listers,
today was a bitter sweet day, 1st, while getting the unusable fuel to get my
weigh in this afternoon, i discovered that my left tank was leaking really
bad. which one do we build first? when i assembled the tanks, i thought i was
overkilling with the proseal, but felt confident that i wasn't going to have
a leak. wrong. i removed the tank, put more fuel in it and it is comming out
from the rear baffle seam, on the top and the bottom, about 1/2 the way
across its seeping very badly. how in the world am i supposed to fix this? if
i put proseal on the seam, it will not go back on the spar, as it was a very
tight fit to begin with. the right tank didn't leak yet, but i only put 1
gallon of fuel in it.
so i had to burn that 1 gallon until the big fan quit. so a taxiing i went. i
got the brakes burnt in pretty good. it spins on a dime, in both directions.
i also noticed how quite my plane is with the canopy down. i have the floors
insulated and carpeted all the way to the rear baggage bulkhead. i got the
rpms up to 2k and i could still hear myself talking with no headsets on. and
that was witht the top cowel off !!!
then came the aircraft weighing guy. i fixed his air conditioner so he owed
me an aircraft weighing.
da plane:
rv6a, 0360 lycoming, hartzel constant speed prop, tipper, fully painted,
fully upholsered, no vaccuum pump since i have all electric gyros, and an ifr
panel, weighed with wheel pants and fairings.
she came in at 1123 lbs.
what do you guys think? she fat? for all that she is? what do you guys think
about setting the gross weight at 1800 lbs.?
scott
tampa
wanting to grin real bad !!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Cable Mount |
use the bent plate and two nuts idea easier to install and more adjustable
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Trim Cable Mount
>
> Wow, you guys really hit the man hard for passing along his problem with
the
> manual trim cable mount! Not sure why you all got so riled up.......I
took
> it as a heads up on a part that caused him problems, and could stand
> improvement. Hey, he didn't mean the whole damned AIRPLANE when he said
it
> was a poor design.
>
> And after looking at mine, I'd agree. The nut is welded to the plate only
> on one very thin edge. I can see how it could easily flex and break. I
> will see that mine is welded better before I install it. Thanks for the
> heads up.
>
> Gary
> RV-9A
>
>
> ____
> From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Vans kit parts
>
>
> < when I
> put it in. I wish I had made a list of those parts I thought were chinzy
> when I installed them, as I'd go through the plane right now and toss
> 'em.
>
> I found the stupid little nut welded to a plate that holds the
> end of the trim cable into the elevator had broken clean off.
>
> Its not nearly welded enough, and its a piece of stainless plate welded
> to a
> steel nut. Piss poor design....>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props |
Another thing to consider is that the constant speed prop can actually give you
a
higher gross weight by moving the CG forward. With an 0-360 and constant speed
,
my -6 is well within the CG limits with full or minimum fuel, 400 lbs of people
and 100 lbs in the baggage area. It makes if very easy to raise the gross to 1800
lbs if you are so inclined. Of course these numbers are for the -6, (you know,
the one without the training wheel up front) if you have that anchor hanging off
the engine mount it may put your CG too far forward. : )
Dave
"Wayne R. Couture" wrote:
>
> I've been considering the same thing for the same reason's and I think the
> best reason for a constant speed prop is not how much faster it will go but
> how much faster it can slow you down! From what I've been hearing, It's
> tough to get these things going slow enough to get the flaps out.
>
> Wayne
> RV-8A qb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Fixed vs. Constant Speed Props
>
> > In the real world experience of those flying RVs, can anyone quantify
> > the compromises that come with a fixed pitch vs. a constant speed prop?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper(at)flash.net> |
From your post I take it you have wing tip tanks that are draining by siphon
through the vent. With wing dihedral, are your tip tanks above the highest
point of your vent? Did you run the vent different from Van's standard
plans?
If the answer to either of the questions above is yes, when it gets hot and
the air is vented from the main tank, it would be replaced with fuel gravity
feeding from the tip tank, keeping the fuel above the vent opening in the
main tank... siphoning the tip tanks dry.
Ralph
9A ... beginnings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
I need some advice on how to reduce the friction of the prop bolts for
on an RV-3A with an IO-320 (3/8" bolts) and an Aymar-Demuth prop. It's
flown over 30 hours since the last condition inspection. 18 hours on
the flight out from Virginia to Washington in April and the balance in
the last month here. Aymar says to torque in 5 lbs-ft increments to 15
lbs-ft. Problem is that with the nuts loose it takes more than 15
lbs-ft just to turn the bolt.
The Sensenich web site talks about installing waxed bolts. Do any of
you listers have any experience with "waxing" prop bolts to elimnate
bolt friction to assure proper torque? Or should I just make sure that
the bolts are fully seated and torque the nuts? Any solutions based
upon successful experience would be welcomed!
John Warren
RV-3A N439RB
RV-6 in progress
LaCenter Wa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV4 Fuselage Jig Question |
Hi guys,
I've just received the fuselage kit for my 4...Damn I love this chintzy
stuff!
I'm going to setup the jig in my small garage. The garage is 16.5' long and
the jig is almost 15' long. Here's the question. Should I set it up with
the tail towards the door so I have room to drill the tailwheel spring (With
the door open), or will I need access to the front of the firewall while it's
in the jig?
Thanks,
Hal Benjamin - RV4
Starting Fuselage - Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
John Warren wrote:
>
>
> I need some advice on how to reduce the friction of the prop bolts for
> on an RV-3A with an IO-320 (3/8" bolts) and an Aymar-Demuth prop. It's
> flown over 30 hours since the last condition inspection. 18 hours on
> the flight out from Virginia to Washington in April and the balance in
> the last month here. Aymar says to torque in 5 lbs-ft increments to 15
> lbs-ft. Problem is that with the nuts loose it takes more than 15
> lbs-ft just to turn the bolt.
>
> The Sensenich web site talks about installing waxed bolts. Do any of
> you listers have any experience with "waxing" prop bolts to elimnate
> bolt friction to assure proper torque? Or should I just make sure that
> the bolts are fully seated and torque the nuts? Any solutions based
> upon successful experience would be welcomed!
>
> John Warren
> RV-3A N439RB
> RV-6 in progress
> LaCenter Wa
>
If you are using nuts behind the flange, it's more accurate
to torque the nuts. If crow's foot wrenches are needed, you
are supposed to correct the torque reading for the extra arm
length added by the crow's foot.
If all else fails, add the 'no-nut' torque required to turn
the bolt to the mfgr's torque spec.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> hi listers,
> today was a bitter sweet day, 1st, while getting the unusable fuel to get my
> weigh in this afternoon, i discovered that my left tank was leaking really
> bad. which one do we build first? when i assembled the tanks, i thought i was
> overkilling with the proseal, but felt confident that i wasn't going to have
> a leak. wrong. i removed the tank, put more fuel in it and it is comming out
> from the rear baffle seam, on the top and the bottom, about 1/2 the way
> across its seeping very badly. how in the world am i supposed to fix this? if
> i put proseal on the seam, it will not go back on the spar, as it was a very
> tight fit to begin with. the right tank didn't leak yet, but i only put 1
> gallon of fuel in it.
> so i had to burn that 1 gallon until the big fan quit. so a taxiing i went. i
> got the brakes burnt in pretty good. it spins on a dime, in both directions.
> i also noticed how quite my plane is with the canopy down. i have the floors
> insulated and carpeted all the way to the rear baggage bulkhead. i got the
> rpms up to 2k and i could still hear myself talking with no headsets on. and
> that was witht the top cowel off !!!
> then came the aircraft weighing guy. i fixed his air conditioner so he owed
> me an aircraft weighing.
> da plane:
> rv6a, 0360 lycoming, hartzel constant speed prop, tipper, fully painted,
> fully upholsered, no vaccuum pump since i have all electric gyros, and an ifr
> panel, weighed with wheel pants and fairings.
> she came in at 1123 lbs.
> what do you guys think? she fat? for all that she is? what do you guys think
> about setting the gross weight at 1800 lbs.?
> scott
> tampa
> wanting to grin real bad !!!!!!!!!!
>
Scott,
This might not apply to the -6, but if you run a -4 with
only the bottom cowl mounted, the exhaust (very close to the
cowl) will start to cook the fiberglas near the pipes rather
quickly.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in |
thanks for the heads up charlie,
i have the lower cowel covered in that reflecto sheild vans sells, no cooking
the cowel for me.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
You could use what is called the "running torque" of the bolt to obtain the
correct prop torque.
The "running torque" is the torque required to turn the bolt in the prop
without the nut.
Just add 5 ft-lbs to the "running torque" for each bolt. Tighten the bolts
in the recommended pattern. Then keep adding 5 ft-lbs to the "running
torque" until you have added the 15 ft-lbs to the "running torque".
Unfortunately, the "running torque" will very probably change at the 25 hour
intervals when you should recheck the prop bolt torque. (Please check the
manufacturers instructions for recommended torque intervals. There is
usually a one hour retorque requirement when a prop is removed (loosened
nuts?))
Jim Ayers
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
What is the difference between the Blue Mountain efis and efis lite and what
are the cost difeerences?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Waxing the bolts will help protect the bolts from corrosion. It is always
better to torque the nuts. The friction of the bolts makes the torque
setting problematic. You can add the torque of the bolt to the final value
if you can't easily torque the nuts. AC-43-13.1B even tells us to add the
torque of the self-locking feature when tightening.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop Bolts
I need some advice on how to reduce the friction of the prop bolts for
on an RV-3A with an IO-320 (3/8" bolts) and an Aymar-Demuth prop. It's
flown over 30 hours since the last condition inspection. 18 hours on
the flight out from Virginia to Washington in April and the balance in
the last month here. Aymar says to torque in 5 lbs-ft increments to 15
lbs-ft. Problem is that with the nuts loose it takes more than 15
lbs-ft just to turn the bolt.
The Sensenich web site talks about installing waxed bolts. Do any of
you listers have any experience with "waxing" prop bolts to elimnate
bolt friction to assure proper torque? Or should I just make sure that
the bolts are fully seated and torque the nuts? Any solutions based
upon successful experience would be welcomed!
John Warren
RV-3A N439RB
RV-6 in progress
LaCenter Wa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Rudberg <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
I gotta chime in here. I do not appreciate the noise
made by others in their ridiculous heroic defense of a
piece of complete Van's cheese. Yes I said it. Van's
has some real cheese in their kits. Doesn't mean I
don't love the airplane either. Van's without a doubt
makes the best kit airplane. They also have a very
nice designed airplane. Not perfect though.
I do appreciate the remark somebody made who is
actually flying one of these things regarding an in
flight failure of a secondary control surface. If
this were a Cessna there would be an AD out on this
and everybody in the country would have this piece of
cheese changed. Unfortunately, kit planes arent
under the same scrutiny so we are left to
self-regulation.
HELLO GUYS, THIS IS GOOD INFORMATION. Why in the
world would you hassle a guy for bringing this to our
attention?
Thanks to the original poster for mentioning this.
Todd.
RV8
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Avemco Insurance |
Thought I'd pass on this blurb from today's AvWeb e-mail. Do you think
they were reading the rv-list??
AVEMCO RESUMES HULL COVERAGE FOR ENTIRE RV SERIES: In March, AVweb
reported Avemco Insurance Company's seeming moratorium on new hull
policies for many homebuilt models, including the RV series of aircraft
kits. EAA now tells us that the insurance company May 23 announced it
has resumed writing new hull coverage policies for the entire Van's RV
series of aircraft -- they're also taking point on the issue. If you
experience any troubles with your insurance coverage, EAA wants to hear
from you at 888-EAA-INFO (322-4636).
Ken Brooks
RV-8
Just ordered EFIS/Lite...expecting in a couple-a-weeks! ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in |
remove all traces of fuel. drill out all rivets holding the rear baffle in
place . pressurize the tank with air. use a heat gun around all seams and
the rear baffle will fly off
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in
>
> ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > hi listers,
> > today was a bitter sweet day, 1st, while getting the unusable fuel to
get my
> > weigh in this afternoon, i discovered that my left tank was leaking
really
> > bad. which one do we build first? when i assembled the tanks, i thought
i was
> > overkilling with the proseal, but felt confident that i wasn't going to
have
> > a leak. wrong. i removed the tank, put more fuel in it and it is comming
out
> > from the rear baffle seam, on the top and the bottom, about 1/2 the way
> > across its seeping very badly. how in the world am i supposed to fix
this? if
> > i put proseal on the seam, it will not go back on the spar, as it was a
very
> > tight fit to begin with. the right tank didn't leak yet, but i only put
1
> > gallon of fuel in it.
> > so i had to burn that 1 gallon until the big fan quit. so a taxiing i
went. i
> > got the brakes burnt in pretty good. it spins on a dime, in both
directions.
> > i also noticed how quite my plane is with the canopy down. i have the
floors
> > insulated and carpeted all the way to the rear baggage bulkhead. i got
the
> > rpms up to 2k and i could still hear myself talking with no headsets on.
and
> > that was witht the top cowel off !!!
> > then came the aircraft weighing guy. i fixed his air conditioner so he
owed
> > me an aircraft weighing.
> > da plane:
> > rv6a, 0360 lycoming, hartzel constant speed prop, tipper, fully painted,
> > fully upholsered, no vaccuum pump since i have all electric gyros, and
an ifr
> > panel, weighed with wheel pants and fairings.
> > she came in at 1123 lbs.
> > what do you guys think? she fat? for all that she is? what do you guys
think
> > about setting the gross weight at 1800 lbs.?
> > scott
> > tampa
> > wanting to grin real bad !!!!!!!!!!
> >
> Scott,
>
> This might not apply to the -6, but if you run a -4 with
> only the bottom cowl mounted, the exhaust (very close to the
> cowl) will start to cook the fiberglas near the pipes rather
> quickly.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | GPS: IFR or VFR? |
Ran across a good (concise) article from Aviation Consumer mag about
what it takes to fly IFR with your GPS, etc. equipment. Thought it
might be timely considering the recent traffic on the "list" about same.
http://www.avweb.com/articles/ifrgps/index.html
Ken Brooks
RV-8 Finish Kit
Might get EFIS-One tomorrow (spotter scope in position for UPS van)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Natedanna(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> What is the difference between the Blue Mountain efis and efis lite and what
> are the cost difeerences?
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | FW: AVflash 8.22a (RV Ins.) |
FYI.
Too little, too late for me; but ...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
-----Original Message-----
From: AVweb's AVflash [mailto:AVflash(at)avweb.com]
Subject: AVflash 8.22a
AVflash Vol. 8, Issue 22a Monday, May 27, 2002
[snip]
AVEMCO RESUMES HULL COVERAGE FOR ENTIRE RV SERIES: In March, AVweb
reported Avemco Insurance Company's seeming moratorium on new hull
policies for many homebuilt models, including the RV series of aircraft
kits. EAA now tells us that the insurance company May 23 announced it
has resumed writing new hull coverage policies for the entire Van's RV
series of aircraft -- they're also taking point on the issue. If you
experience any troubles with your insurance coverage, EAA wants to hear
from you at 888-EAA-INFO (322-4636).
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's kit parts |
Todd Rudberg wrote:
>
> I do appreciate the remark somebody made who is
> actually flying one of these things regarding an in
> flight failure of a secondary control surface. If
> this were a Cessna there would be an AD out on this
> and everybody in the country would have this piece of
> cheese changed. Unfortunately, kit planes arent
> under the same scrutiny so we are left to
> self-regulation.
Unfortunately? Unfortunately, you say???!????? You are saying we would
be better off if forced to use only FAA/PMA parts, A&P/IA mechanics, and
super-mega-buck antique replacement parts??
Sorta like flying a Cessna or Piper??? ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, self regulated......thank goodness........)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vans did it again |
In a message dated 5/24/2002 11:25:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> And, my darned GPS still doesn't seem to show this L45 anywhere south of
> LA??? If I ever figure out how to use it maybe I can just push the GOTO L45
> button and see if I end up south of LA?
>
>
For a no mistake navaid to L45 on the day of the BBQ I have been informed
that there will be 6-10 extreamly beautiful girls working there that day, and
we all know that beeing a pilot with your skill level you will be able to
spot them at 2000' AGL
or just push the GOTO THE BABES button and push once
SEE YA THERE
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Kohser" <dckoh(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulleys |
I don't know the size of the shaft or anything else about it, but Van says
the following on the back of his generic alternator bracket instruction
sheet:
On the DENSO unit, a 4 1/4" pulley from GM can be easily modified to fit.
This pulley comes from a 70's Chevrolet Camaro air pump and has the GM part#
14087007TAY.....
Doug Kohser
RV-6A (firewall forward)
Marietta, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Pulleys
>
> Does anyone know of a good source for alternator pulleys? I have a
> Nippon Denso alternator from a Geo Metro that I'm putting on my 0-320.
> It has a 15 mm shaft. I know Spruce has them, at a healthy price, but
> it seems there would be automotive pulleys of a suitable diameter (3
> inches or so?) with the same pitch as the Lycoming pulley.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Van's kit parts (the FINAL post) |
>I do not appreciate the noise made by others in their ridiculous heroic
>defense of a piece of complete Van's cheese. Yes I said it. Van's
>has some real cheese in their kits.
OK. It was me. I started this little chat. It also needs to end HERE.
Reread my original post, especially the last paragraph. I was not
defending Van's parts. The kit I was defending as it is the best value
on the market that results in the best airplane on the market. I was
stating that it is the BUILDER'S choice of what goes into his/her
airplane, not Van's. It is the BUILDER'S cheesy part that is going in,
not Van's because it is the BUILDER that put it there. Don't like the
part or design? Change or fix it (except for the fuel system). Weld it a
little more. File it down on this side more than the plans dictate to
make it fit better. Design and install your own part if the kit part
isn't what you like. Don't mess with the structural parts of the design
or the flying surfaces; do what you want to make everything else you
don't like likeable. Van will (probably) never fly your airplane; he
won't even know. Don't like the kit? Build something else or just go
with the plans. YIKES.
Van has sent out MANY modifications to all his designs. He has had a few
Service Bulletins. There are no design flaws that result in an unsafe
airplane or they would let us know (e.g. RV-3 rear spar fitting). And
more would be showing up on this list. Is the factory perfect in
customer service? Go build another airplane and compare Van's to anyone
else. If things were so bad the EZ series would still be the most
popular design flying.
THANK YOU Mr. North for telling us about something you thought was not
up to your standards. We DO need to know that. That is part of what this
list is all about. How many hours have been saved by other builders from
a suggestion made by someone that has been there before.
Bottom (let this end here) line: when your airplane leaves your little
factory, everything that YOU put in it should meet with your exacting
and demanding specifications. Otherwise it shouldn't be in YOUR
airplane. It's not in mine.
Now can it.
IMHO
Michael
Memorial Day: I salute those that gave so much so that I could freely go
on my flight this morning.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | JUNE 1st BBQ at Bakersfield (L45) |
PUT THIS ON YOUR CALENDAR
Bakersfield EAA 71 annual BBQ Fly-In @ (L45) will be on June 1st, 2002
Come Early and stay all day!
Food will be catered by the following Restaurants:
Breakfast; CoCo's
Lunch; Coconut Joe's /Getaway Cafe
Dinner; Outback Restaurant
ALL PROCEEDES ARE FOR C.A.R.E. (Childrens Advocates Resource Endowment)
In addition to all of the awesome experimental aircraft on display,
there will be custom Hot Rods and Motorcycle displays, Radio Control
Airplanes, Cars & Helicopters
****Live music all day long****
Come Join Chapter 71 for this all day event
Fly Ins are free
Drive Ins $ 5.00 gate fee
Info: call John Harmon (611) 836-1028 or e-mail hr2pilot(at)aol.com
or
Tim Barnes (661) 393-4100 or e-mail EAABKFD71(at)aol.com
P.S. Bakersfield is not south of Los Angeles (Trust your GPS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Hyde <dhyde(at)sstar.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Project for sale |
RV-6A Quickbuild kit, wings and empennage completed and mounted.
Located in Slidell, La.
Asking $14,000, tools included.
Don Hyde
dhyde(at)sstar.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak installation |
I just scanned in seven TruTrak installation diagrams:
http://www.rvproject.com/trutrak.html
I had been trying to figure out (by searching the archives) whether
autopilot installation would be difficult after the wings have been
completed. I just got the info pack from TruTrack on their RV-7
installation...and by the looks of it, the roll servo attaches using
existing bellcrank bracket bolts. Looks like a couple of servo attach
brackets just bolt on right there and no additional provisions have to be
made to the main spar.
I'm not positive about this, though. If anybody wants to confirm this,
it'll etch in stone my decision to put off buying an autopilot until much
later.
I apologize if this has already been covered in the archives, but I couldn't
find it.
)_( Dan
dan @ rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Fuselage Jig Question |
In a message dated 05/27/2002 11:30:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
aronsond(at)pacbell.net writes:
> You will need to get to both ends for skinning, adjusting langerons,
> finishing metal. Also, if you have the firewall option for CS prop to
> fabricate, as I did, after the firewall was mounted, you will need a few
> feet to get at the project. Once you make your jig and get it set up you
> will see the problem. Can you lay it out at an angle to take advantage of
> the diagonal? Add on to the garage!!! Regardless of all this, you will
> find a solution and the building will commence...... And it will be worth
> it!! GO FOR IT!----
>
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the input. Extending the garage isn't allowed & the width is
about 7 feet. So I think tail to door & a 1.5 to the wall is the way to go.
Looks like this chubby baldheaded varmint is going to go on a diet and keep
building.
Hal Benjamin - RV4
Long Island - Short Garage - NY
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ 3 Rotor ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: 3 Rotor
Subject: Alvord desert tie-down space available
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.05.27.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dale Larsen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dale Larsen <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Flap position indicator
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/slickrock@been-there.com.05.27.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | F-608 Flex ?!?!? |
While trying to fit the F-675 skin to the rear of the fuse I keep having
problems with F-608 flexing (fore and aft) which deforms the bulkhead when I
pull the skin down tight with the straps. Any thoughts on how to keep in in
place and STRAIGHT so I can figure out where to drill it? What am I doing
wrong.
Thanks...
David Schaefer
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak installation |
Dan:
Just completed the installation of the roll and pitch servos from Trutrak in
my RV8. Both servos go in the fuselage (nothing in the wings), the pitch
attaches very ingeniously to the elevator belcrank and the roll attaches
directly to the torque tube by way of a collet and a push/pull rod (which
was very well engineered IMO). Just received the computer head unit from
Trutrak as well with only a 3 day lead time. Service has been excellent. I
am fairly sure that the RV7 installation is the same as the -8, but you
might want to confirm with Andrew at Trutrak. If anyone would like to see
pics of my servo installation, email me and I will send them.
Mike Sices
RV8 - Kenosha, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak installation
I just scanned in seven TruTrak installation diagrams:
http://www.rvproject.com/trutrak.html
I had been trying to figure out (by searching the archives) whether
autopilot installation would be difficult after the wings have been
completed. I just got the info pack from TruTrack on their RV-7
installation...and by the looks of it, the roll servo attaches using
existing bellcrank bracket bolts. Looks like a couple of servo attach
brackets just bolt on right there and no additional provisions have to be
made to the main spar.
I'm not positive about this, though. If anybody wants to confirm this,
it'll etch in stone my decision to put off buying an autopilot until much
later.
I apologize if this has already been covered in the archives, but I couldn't
find it.
)_( Dan
dan @ rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-608 Flex ?!?!? |
David,
I just finished doing my rear skins and overcame that problem with some jigs
that were built by Brett Herrick. Just prior to that we did Monte McDavid's
6 the same way.
The jigs stiffened the 609, 608, 607, and 606 bulkheads and ours came out
very nicely.
I'm out in the desert training Marines for the next two weeks but I've got
plenty of digi-pics that I can forward to you concerning our construction.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR(reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-608 Flex ?!?!?
>
> While trying to fit the F-675 skin to the rear of the fuse I keep having
> problems with F-608 flexing (fore and aft) which deforms the bulkhead when
I
> pull the skin down tight with the straps. Any thoughts on how to keep in
in
> place and STRAIGHT so I can figure out where to drill it? What am I doing
> wrong.
>
> Thanks...
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's kit parts |
Hello Yall
What model is this CHINZY part supplied for. A few
pictures for the ones of us that are wondering why a
tack welded nut is holding something in place would be
nice. The weld should only be used to keep the nut in
place and prevent turning. It sounds like the manufacturers
should reengineer the part.
George Meketa - RV8 manufacturer
> I gotta chime in here. I do not appreciate the noise
> made by others in their ridiculous heroic defense of a
> piece of complete Van's cheese. Yes I said it. Van's
> has some real cheese in their kits. Doesn't mean I
> don't love the airplane either. Van's without a doubt
> makes the best kit airplane. They also have a very
> nice designed airplane. Not perfect though.
>
> I do appreciate the remark somebody made who is
> actually flying one of these things regarding an in
> flight failure of a secondary control surface. If
> this were a Cessna there would be an AD out on this
> and everybody in the country would have this piece of
> cheese changed. Unfortunately, kit planes arent
> under the same scrutiny so we are left to
> self-regulation.
>
> HELLO GUYS, THIS IS GOOD INFORMATION. Why in the
> world would you hassle a guy for bringing this to our
> attention?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dan Checkoway ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dan Checkoway
Subject: TruTrak autopilot installation diagrams
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dan@rvproject.com.05.27.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "der_Jagdflieger" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visiting Texas |
Raymond, drop me a note as the time gets closer.
If I am around I'd be happy to show you my flying
RV-6A and our airpark. Check us out at
www.airporthomes.com/hmo233.htm
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wallace" <rawmailman(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Visiting Texas
>
>
> I will be spending about two weeks in Denton TX from about the 10th
through the 22nd of June. If there are any RV pilots in the area who
would like to show off their RV or Project, I would be very interested in
seeing them. I am currently working mounting tail surfaces on my RV-4.
Please contact me at rawmailman(at)yahoo.com.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | cg envelope for rv6 question |
I just purchased AIRPLAN flight planning software. One of the inputs that
it asks for is the weight in pounds and ARM in inches for the six corners of
the cg envelope. Can anyone suggest how I compute these data points
My AC weighs empty 1058 lbs with full oil.. I have the arm for pilot pax,
baggage and fuel. Thanks Bob Blum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
"'Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com'" ,
"'Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com'"
| Subject: | EIS Flight Timer |
Ok all you EIS owners... I have my EIS set to alert me at 30 minutes
into the flight to change my fuel tanks, but when I ACK the alert the
red stays on... How do I ACK and reset the timer so the light goes off?
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8WV - 10.6 hrs
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | F-608 Flex ?!?!? |
Hi David,
The most common solution is to cut some thin plywood pieces and clamp them
onto the bulkhead, thereby stiffening it up until installation. That's what
I and many builders in my area have done and it seems to work great.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, ready for hangar!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Subject: RV-List: F-608 Flex ?!?!?
While trying to fit the F-675 skin to the rear of the fuse I keep having
problems with F-608 flexing (fore and aft) which deforms the bulkhead when I
pull the skin down tight with the straps. Any thoughts on how to keep in in
place and STRAIGHT so I can figure out where to drill it? What am I doing
wrong.
Thanks...
David Schaefer
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-608 Flex ?!?!? |
Dave:
I would suggest that you clamp some stiff wood, such as maple, supports on
the vertical sides of the bulkhead. Clamp it on from the inside of the
bulkhead so you can still get your skins on. You should do this with the
other rear bulkheads so as to keep them from flexing also.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
riveting fuse skeleton
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-608 Flex ?!?!?
>
> While trying to fit the F-675 skin to the rear of the fuse I keep having
> problems with F-608 flexing (fore and aft) which deforms the bulkhead when
I
> pull the skin down tight with the straps. Any thoughts on how to keep in
in
> place and STRAIGHT so I can figure out where to drill it? What am I doing
> wrong.
>
> Thanks...
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Fuselage Jig Question |
Hi Hal
I would vote for the tail where you could get at it. I did mine the other
way and ended up the some of the small bulkheads at the back not vertical.
Had to shim things to make the tail fit properly.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HalBenjamin(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV4 Fuselage Jig Question
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I've just received the fuselage kit for my 4...Damn I love this chintzy
> stuff!
> I'm going to setup the jig in my small garage. The garage is 16.5' long
and
> the jig is almost 15' long. Here's the question. Should I set it up with
> the tail towards the door so I have room to drill the tailwheel spring
(With
> the door open), or will I need access to the front of the firewall while
it's
> in the jig?
>
> Thanks,
> Hal Benjamin - RV4
> Starting Fuselage - Long Island, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | re: EIS Flight Timer |
Bill,
I also use the timer facility on the EIS-4000 to switch tanks every 30 minutes.
The light goes off when I acknowledge. You might check that you've set the
alarm on the right timer. The one you want is the "interval timer". There is
also a "max time" alarm that I don't use, but would probably behave as you
described.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 380 hrs
>
> Ok all you EIS owners... I have my EIS set to alert me at 30 minutes
> into the flight to change my fuel tanks, but when I ACK the alert the
> red stays on... How do I ACK and reset the timer so the light goes off?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8WV - 10.6 hrs
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak installation |
dan, on the trutrack auto pilot servos for the rv6 or 7 wings after they are
done, its impossable to mount inside,or at least it was for me,if you are
mounting them while the wings are still open its really easy,i have them
mounted in my 6A,they are a work of art,small digital motors,instead i
mounted mine on the right wing tip by making a bracket,using the existing
bracket, next to the spar tip,on the end rib,running a long metal 3/8 rod
back to the wing bellcrank,got the idea from several other guys doing the
same on there 6s,they are covered by the wing tip,
frank goggio fayetteville nc 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
While not entirely related to RVs other then the Bakersfield Dinner next
weekend I am very happy to report, after flying to Santa Paula today to have
lunch with my Mother-In-Law (I know I'm a good boy - I even bought her
lunch) I decided to head back to Sandy Eggo via a slightly northern route
through Gorman pass and over Techachapi pass. According to my GPS L45 is
back where it belongs. I just wish I could be there next week to kick off
the airshow season but I have to work at another Airshow in Ramona. So if
you're stuck down here in the real deep south (relative to the left side,
next to the big lake)come on up to KRNM and have some fun.
http://www.ramonaairfair.org/
w
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'RV-List Digest Server '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | RE: Thanks for your adherence to safety / quality.... |
Pete,
thanks for the come back. My skin is thicker and uglier then the list lets
it appear, so I usually don't get too upset about some grumbling. My concern
was that the problem was disappearing in the mist of the flaming rather then
being noticed and checked out by those affected.
I wish I had an "I dunno" list still. I had somewhat of one and went through
it throughly before first flight, but there were obviously things I didn't
put on there and now only remember when it comes back around in a more
noticable form.
I certainly will continue putting it out there when I see it.
Congrats on joining the list, this is actually a very good list that has
done a lot for the RV community. It takes a little time to read every day
but it has been the single most significant force in maintaining one's
motivation during those dreary times when we must go make more green fun
coupons to feed to the sky gods.
Finally, there's an old Yiddish RV Aircraft Builder's proverb that I would
offer up....
"If you don buy da tail feather kit, it will neva fly"
Besides, it gives you something to do while you're thinking about all those
options to come.
thx
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:leaky tank/weigh in |
Don't feel bad, I bought a set of wings from a guy who sloshed them with
Randolph 912 and let them set for 2 years, needless to say the stuff was
peeling off. I cut 4 round holes in the back, one between each rib. It took
3 days of scrubbing with MEK to get the 912 solution out. I then riveted
.063 over the holes with the blind tank rivets and no problems. I used the
same size hole as the tank access holes, but decided to pop rivet instead of
nut plates. BTW after the 912 was removed I laid a bead of pro-seal over all
seams, stiffeners, and joints. I found I got best results with my finger and
a latex glove.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
4 255hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Van's M.P. gauge |
Hello,
I used all Van's analog engine gauges in my new "6" and I'm happy with
all of them except the manifold pressure gauge. It is an electric gauge
and there is a small hose that goes from the sender (mounted behind the
panel) to a fitting on the firewall. From there I have an aeroquip hose
going to #4 cylinder. My problem is that the gauge slowly began to read
less and less over about 15 to 20 hours until it finally gave up and
pegged to the high side and never moved until I turned off the master. I
replaced the sender portion of the unit and fixed the problem. Now after
a few hours it is starting to go bad again. I could replace the sender
again but it is not likely the problem.
Tech help at Vans thinks it may be due to contamination and that I
should consider mounting the sender in such a way that the hose attached
to the sender vertically rather than horizontally, like I've done.
Although he thought this was a long shot.
They are using this gauge in some of their demo planes with good
success.
Can any of you help me isolate the problem.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Ken Cantrell
RV-6 flying 38 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Stiffeners |
To those flying their RV6 aircraft. Have you found the wooden gear leg
stiffeners fiberglassed to the gear legs as per Van's prints being
necessary? How about the fiberglass rods (actually they are fiberglass
fence posts sold at farm stores) in lieu of wood which I have heard of?
Any have any performance thoughts on the wood verses fiberglass? I am
hearing of builders not doing anything at all.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 Finish Kit (Wiring)
Northfield, MN
N500DD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Ken Fowler Seminar at Langley RV Fly-in |
Ken Fowler has generously offered to take Bart Lalonde's spot on the seminar
schedule at the Langley RV Fly-in, June 8. (Bart is unable to attend.) Ken
will give a seminar on aerobatic and airshow flying in RVs and Rockets. Many
of you have seen Ken's airshow routine. He puts on a spectacular show, and is
without a doubt the finest Rocket aerobatic pilot in the world.
For more information on the fly-in, see our web page at
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
Langley, BC is just 20 nm north of Bellingham, WA.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Stiffeners |
Dick,
I omitted the stiffeners. I did end up with some nose gear shimmy, but that
shouldn't be a problem for you! I controlled that by experimenting with nose
wheel pressure.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A 70 hours
-----Original Message-----To those flying their RV6 aircraft. Have you
found the wooden gear leg
stiffeners fiberglassed to the gear legs as per Van's prints being
necessary? How about the fiberglass rods (actually they are fiberglass
fence posts sold at farm stores) in lieu of wood which I have heard of?
Any have any performance thoughts on the wood verses fiberglass? I am
hearing of builders not doing anything at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Oil Analysis |
For those of you who have been using Howard Fenton's services in Tulsa,
I just read in the June issue of AOPA's magazine that he has retired and
has sold his company to Blackstone in Fort Wayne, IN. I'm not sure how
that will work out for you guys because Howard may have been giving you
a hefty discount. However, I've been using Blackstone for about ten
years and can really vouch for this company. Their reports are
excellent compared to some of the others I've seen. Jim Stark, the
owner, isn't afraid to pick up the phone and give you a call if he's
concerned that your engine may be having severe problems. I've been
called by him twice. Once was a false alarm; but, once was for real.
The engine was coming apart on the inside. I'm still thankful to him
for that call. You can contact him at: jim-stark(at)pipeline.com
Company: Blackstone Laboratories; 4929 S. Lafayette Street; ort Wayne
Indiana 46806
Phone: 219-744-2380
www.blackstone-labs.com
BTW, I have nothing to do with this company other than using their
services. I thought you guys might want to look at it if Howard Fenton
picked this company as his replacement because he felt it was the best
choice for his customers. That would be good enough for me if I was
satisfied with Howard's work.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Doggone piano hinges! |
I am having an inordinate amount of trouble getting the flap mounted on my
right (last one, gang!) wing. Is there an accepted method for making sure
all those blankety-blank eylets on the piano hinge are lined up? I drilled
the hinge to my flap and my wing just like I did the other one, and I had
little to no problems putting the hinge pins in (I cut the hinge in two and
put the pins in from the center - per the RVator).
Thanks in advance for any suggestions short of euthanasia.
Jim Bower
Started on the fuse, but trying to put this wing to bed
St. Louis, MO
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
There are striations running with the grain of the metal that are fairly deep in
the middle third of the part. It looks like a manufacturing problem when the
metal bar was formed. How much metal can one safely take off? Is this a not to
worry item after polishing the piece to #400 satin smooth, even though some
"light" marks remain?
A 1/4" from the 3rd hole in, a "dimple" got drilled in the bar at the factory.
Any problem smoothing the edges and hiding it by facing the spar?
Other than these issues the kit is fabulous. A friend who runs punch presses,
laser cutters and turret lathes for a living says it's some of the best work
he's seen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Navaid S-2 Servo Installation -6A |
Hello All,
I will be most grateful if anyone could let me know the following info on
the Navaid Devices autopilot servo that I am planning to install in my -6A:
..what is the diameter of the hole in the servo arm?
..does the servo come with any rod ends that fit the arm? If so what tube
did you use to attach the rod end to the aileron system?
..if none supplied, what rod end do you use to attach to the servo arm?
Thanks Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
>
> To those flying their RV6 aircraft. Have you found the wooden gear leg
> stiffeners fiberglassed to the gear legs as per Van's prints being
> necessary?
Hi Dick,
I didn't install them on my 6A and I haven't had any problems with shimmy at
all. I have taken off and landed at rough and smooth fields and have taxied
at various speeds and never a shimmy. I can't see a need for the extra
weight.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doggone piano hinges! |
>
> I am having an inordinate amount of trouble getting the flap mounted on my
> right (last one, gang!) wing. Is there an accepted method for making sure
> all those blankety-blank eylets on the piano hinge are lined up?
Hi Jim,
It may be too late for this, but did you put the piano hinge pin in while
drilling and riveting the hinge in place? This helps keep the hinge eyelets
lined up during drilling and riveting.
If they are already drilled and riveted in place, make sure the end of the
hinge pins are rounded off and lubricate them with some dry lubricant like
BoLube. Sometimes you can spin them in with a drill. As a last resort,
slide the pin in one hinge at a time and using a pair of pliers, gently
adjust the hinge eyelets as you slide the pin in until they are straight and
the pin will slide in smoothly. Don't leave scratch marks on the eyelets or
you may create stress points.
Hope something here helps.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid S-2 Servo Installation -6A |
Hi Bill,
The servo comes with all of the rod end hardware and a rod that is about 2
feet long. If memory serves, the hole in the servo arm is 1/8" for a small
allen head screw and nut to attach the rod end bearing to. You can see some
pictures of the servo and my wingtip installation on my website in "Wings"
section - "Final Assembly" Go to:
www.ericsrv6a.com
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Navaid S-2 Servo Installation -6A
>
> Hello All,
> I will be most grateful if anyone could let me know the following info on
> the Navaid Devices autopilot servo that I am planning to install in
my -6A:
>
> ..what is the diameter of the hole in the servo arm?
> ..does the servo come with any rod ends that fit the arm? If so what tube
> did you use to attach the rod end to the aileron system?
> ..if none supplied, what rod end do you use to attach to the servo arm?
>
> Thanks Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
Dick, I have the wooden stiffeners on all three of my gear. I put them on
when it was the recommended thing to do. Probably not necessary, but I once
had to make an aborted take off and a panic stop from 80 mph in 300 ft. I
am convinced that the stiffeners kept the main gear from hopping and
skipping that could have been the case with that metal rod flexing back and
then springing forward under those loads. The wheels never locked but the
soft rubber compound left rubber marks for the entire 300 ft as I was on the
binders HARD!
I am convinced that I would not had the stopping power without the
stiffeners. Just thought I would pass on that experience. Of course, had
it been a tail wheel I would have been over on my nose with those kind of
braking, so the stiffenerns in that case would probably not have been a
factor.
FWIW
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Stiffeners
>
> To those flying their RV6 aircraft. Have you found the wooden gear leg
> stiffeners fiberglassed to the gear legs as per Van's prints being
> necessary? How about the fiberglass rods (actually they are fiberglass
> fence posts sold at farm stores) in lieu of wood which I have heard of?
> Any have any performance thoughts on the wood verses fiberglass? I am
> hearing of builders not doing anything at all.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> RV6 Finish Kit (Wiring)
> Northfield, MN
> N500DD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Doggone piano hinges! |
Eric,
You've been a big help. I did drill the hinges to the wing and flap, and
they were together at the time. I can only surmise that the squeezing
process got them out of line, and it will take some careful tweaking.
Jim
>From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Doggone piano hinges!
>Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:15:17 -0500
>
>
> >
> > I am having an inordinate amount of trouble getting the flap mounted on
>my
> > right (last one, gang!) wing. Is there an accepted method for making
>sure
> > all those blankety-blank eylets on the piano hinge are lined up?
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>It may be too late for this, but did you put the piano hinge pin in while
>drilling and riveting the hinge in place? This helps keep the hinge
>eyelets
>lined up during drilling and riveting.
>If they are already drilled and riveted in place, make sure the end of the
>hinge pins are rounded off and lubricate them with some dry lubricant like
>BoLube. Sometimes you can spin them in with a drill. As a last resort,
>slide the pin in one hinge at a time and using a pair of pliers, gently
>adjust the hinge eyelets as you slide the pin in until they are straight
>and
>the pin will slide in smoothly. Don't leave scratch marks on the eyelets
>or
>you may create stress points.
>
>Hope something here helps.
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
>www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
Same here. I did not install the stiffeners. I think it actually made for
a smoother ride on the ground. Nose wheel shimmy happens if you get too
fast, but nothing that can't be corrected. I think Van no longer dictates
the stiffeners. I know they ommitted the nose gear one, due to the fact
that it could have been a contributing factor to the nosegear failures. I
can't recall if they did indeed omit them from the main gear.
Nevertheless, I'm sure you will find that most who didn't put them on, had
no regrets doing so. I say put your time and effort into another area of
the plane!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Stiffeners
>
> To those flying their RV6 aircraft. Have you found the wooden gear leg
> stiffeners fiberglassed to the gear legs as per Van's prints being
> necessary? How about the fiberglass rods (actually they are fiberglass
> fence posts sold at farm stores) in lieu of wood which I have heard of?
> Any have any performance thoughts on the wood verses fiberglass? I am
> hearing of builders not doing anything at all.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> RV6 Finish Kit (Wiring)
> Northfield, MN
> N500DD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
\"'Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com'\""
SNIP
Hey, out there in internet land somewhere is a similar lock someone made
where the lock serves as a push tube which rotates a cam and drives a rod
up through the sill to lock the canopy. Not as simple but as I remember was
pretty interesting. It may have been in an rvator. Anyone remember?
Check out this new lock design...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/canopy/lock/index.htm
You may have to hit CTRL+F5 to reload the page...
SNIP
I'm sitting in my office... and Lo and Behold... the exact lock that you
need is part of my center desk drawer. It's a cam thingy with the lock
thingy that moves smoothly up and down. Hope that wasn't too technical.
I'd be willing to bet that McMaster-Carr or Grainger has them listed under
"desk locks". I'm too tired to look because the catalogs are about 6" from
my grasp. Hey, I'm tired... I had to tear off and re-shingle my house roof
this weekend due to hail damage. Yuck. Geez, I'm sore... 40 sucks.
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doggone piano hinges! |
| From: | <racker(at)rmci.net> |
On my own flaps, I found the hinges would only go in the first 1/3 to 1/2
of the way with the flaps hanging down. They would simply not budge past
this point.
I noticed as I lifted the flap up, I could progressively get the hinge in
further and further using long needle nose pliers from the top. The last
few inches, however, would again not budge.
I then cut just enough out of the bottom flap skin to get the needle nose
pliers around the hinge pin from the bottom (where the hinge eyes had been
removed to get the pins in from the center). Moved the flap to the full up
position, and got the pins in 1/4" at a time.
Rob Acker (RV-6, 90% done and only 40% to go)
>
> Eric,
>
> You've been a big help. I did drill the hinges to the wing and flap,
> and they were together at the time. I can only surmise that the
> squeezing process got them out of line, and it will take some careful
> tweaking.
>
> Jim
>
>
>>From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Doggone piano hinges!
>>Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:15:17 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > I am having an inordinate amount of trouble getting the flap mounted
>> > on
>>my
>> > right (last one, gang!) wing. Is there an accepted method for
>> > making
>>sure
>> > all those blankety-blank eylets on the piano hinge are lined up?
>>
>>Hi Jim,
>>
>>It may be too late for this, but did you put the piano hinge pin in
>>while drilling and riveting the hinge in place? This helps keep the
>>hinge eyelets
>>lined up during drilling and riveting.
>>If they are already drilled and riveted in place, make sure the end of
>>the hinge pins are rounded off and lubricate them with some dry
>>lubricant like BoLube. Sometimes you can spin them in with a drill.
>>As a last resort, slide the pin in one hinge at a time and using a pair
>>of pliers, gently adjust the hinge eyelets as you slide the pin in
>>until they are straight and
>>the pin will slide in smoothly. Don't leave scratch marks on the
>>eyelets or
>>you may create stress points.
>>
>>Hope something here helps.
>>
>>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>>RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
>>www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/27/2002 6:45:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
> Folks,
>
> While not entirely related to RVs other then the Bakersfield Dinner next
> weekend I am very happy to report, after flying to Santa Paula today to
> have
> lunch with my Mother-In-Law (I know I'm a good boy - I even bought her
> lunch) I decided to head back to Sandy Eggo via a slightly northern route
> through Gorman pass and over Techachapi pass. According to my GPS L45 is
> back where it belongs. I just wish I could be there next week to kick off
> the airshow season but I have to work at another Airshow in Ramona. So if
> you're stuck down here in the real deep south (relative to the left side,
> next to the big lake)come on up to KRNM and have some fun.
>
> http://www.ramonaairfair.org/
>
>
Thank goodness that somebody finely found Bakersfield, and just in the nick
of time before the BBQ
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | wing tank siphoning |
SNIP With wing tip tanks and a one way fuel valve to the main tanks it
keeps
the main tanks full until a good portion of the wing tank is drained.
When the fuel expands in the main tank it runs up through the vent line
and starts a siphon until such time (as in my case) the main tank vent
line tip is not submerged. SNIP
A local RV-8 guy has his wingtip tank filler caps vented. The caps use a
ram air tube just like what's on my Stinson. They won't siphon, but they
will burp.
I don't know if his wing tanks feed into the mains or if they go direct to
the fuel pump. They don't simply drain into the mains, that's for sure.
Hope this helps.
Vince Frazier
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
Vincent...
The canopy lock via a pushrod up through the slide canopy rail was
published in "16 Years of the Rvator" (or 14 or whatever). It was just
a hole drilled in the lock arm with the lock mounted beneath the canopy
track on the side skin. A rod was inserted in this hole in the lock
with an adjustment via a clevis or rod end bearing as part of the rod.
The upper end was inserted in another guide hole in the canopy track so
the upper end of the rod was right behind the canopy roller. With the
key unlocked the rod was adjusted to sit below the track allowing the
canopy to slide. With the canopy closed and the key in the lock
position, the rod would be up behind the roller preventing the canopy
from opening.
Dick DeCramer
Northfield, MN.
RV6 N500DD
still wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel tanks for the RV-6 other then the
Jon Johnson tanks?
I like Jon's design but they are way too expensive. Looking for some
ideas to try. I have thought about a tip tank attached to the outer
rib(s) or a removable baggage compartment tank. thoughts?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 (waiting on finish kit).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Gary,
My RV-6 is set up for a baggage aux tank as you suggest. I made provisions under
the baggage floor for 4 hard points to strap the tank down. Summit Racing
has a 15 gallon neoprene tank used in drag racers that works great including stainless
tie-down straps. Some things you have to think
about: Provisions for a flexible line to run from the tank to your fuel selector
valve; an "Aux" position on your fuel selector valve (I got the Andair valve
direct from the factory, which has the added benefit of being directional, i.e.,
handle points to the correct wing); and a removable vent somewhere in area
of the baggage skin. 15 gallons should not exceed
the 100# limitation of the baggage compartment and could provide up to 2
hours more fuel. Not including the fuel selector valve, a little over a
$100 for everything you need.
I may never use it but it's there if I should ever need it.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6, Firewall Forward
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Gunn
Subject: RV-List: aux tanks
Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel tanks for the RV-6 other then the
Jon Johnson tanks?
I like Jon's design but they are way too expensive. Looking for some
ideas to try. I have thought about a tip tank attached to the outer
rib(s) or a removable baggage compartment tank. thoughts?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 (waiting on finish kit).
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/28/02 2:28:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ggunn(at)qwest.net
writes:
> Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel tanks for the RV-6 other then the
> Jon Johnson tanks?
> I like Jon's design but they are way too expensive. Looking for some
> ideas to try. I have thought about a tip tank attached to the outer
> rib(s) or a removable baggage compartment tank. thoughts?
>
> Gary Gunn
>
I am developing a belly tank/cargo pod that would resemble a WWII belly drop
tank and would be interchangable with an identical cargo pod.
Scott Morrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
Hi Gary :
I have seen a wing extension, that fits between the tip and the last
rib. I believe they were called "Bladder Busters". Or you can convert your
own tips to fuel tanks. I have built my outboard leading edges as fuel
tanks, but it was a little expensive and should be planned for before
building wings. I have also considered building a set of 10 gal. tanks that
are wedge shaped to fit in the space directly behind the seats. This would
give a better CG than 20 gals laying in the cargo area. Take a look at my
website to see what I have done.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Gunn [SMTP:ggunn(at)qwest.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:30 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: aux tanks
>
>
> Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel tanks for the RV-6 other then the
> Jon Johnson tanks?
> I like Jon's design but they are way too expensive. Looking for some
> ideas to try. I have thought about a tip tank attached to the outer
> rib(s) or a removable baggage compartment tank. thoughts?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 (waiting on finish kit).
>
>
>
>
>
RE: RV-List: aux tanks
Hi Gary :
I have seen a wing extension, that fits between
the tip and the last rib. I believe they were called Bladder
Busters. Or you can convert your own tips to fuel tanks. I have
built my outboard leading edges as fuel tanks, but it was a little
expensive and should be planned for before building wings. I have also
considered building a set of 10 gal. tanks that are wedge shaped to fit
in the space directly behind the seats. This would give a better CG
than 20 gals laying in the cargo area. Take a look at my website to see
what I have done.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: <FONT
SIZE1 FACE"Arial">Gary Gunn [SMTP:ggunn(at)qwest.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:30 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: aux tanks
-- RV-List message posted by:
Gary Gunn ggunn(at)qwest.net
Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel
tanks for the RV-6 other then the
Jon Johnson tanks?
I like Jon's design but they are way
too expensive. Looking for some
ideas to try. I have thought about a
tip tank attached to the outer
rib(s) or a removable baggage
compartment tank. thoughts?
Gary Gunn
RV-6 (waiting on finish kit).
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Browse List: http://www.matronics.com/browselist/rv-list
Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives
List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable bracket |
George.......I posted some photos to the email photoshare page. They should
be available in a day or two. Hope they show up all right. As I stated in
the photoshare, it looks like this part applies to RV-4 and RV-6 kits using
manual trim, as well as my RV-9A. Most likely the 7, and possibly the 8?
It not only keeps the nut from turning, but also attaches the end of the
cable sheath to the elevator.
Gary
____
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's kit parts
Hello Yall
What model is this CHINZY part supplied for. A few
pictures for the ones of us that are wondering why a
tack welded nut is holding something in place would be
nice. The weld should only be used to keep the nut in
place and prevent turning. It sounds like the manufacturers
should reengineer the part.
George Meketa - RV8 manufacturer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8/8A fuselage jig available |
-8 fuselage jig, w/straight grain 2 X 6 main frame and screwed/glued members
ready for 3rd builder.
Located at Red Wing, MN. and just put out under tarps. Extras- several
aluminum longeron clamps and two nine degree wedges for positioning/aligning
807 bulkhead.
Interested please e-mail for details off-list to < jackanet(at)hotmail.com > or
phone 651-388-6902.
Jack Blomgren
3531 Skyline Dr
Red Wing, MN 55066
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Where is everyone going that they need 6 hours of non-stop flying?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fletcher Hatch [SMTP:pat_hatch(at)msn.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aux tanks
>
>
> Gary,
>
> My RV-6 is set up for a baggage aux tank as you suggest. I made provisio> ns
under the baggage floor for 4 hard points to strap the tank down. Sum> mit Racing
has a 15 gallon neoprene tank used in drag racers that works g> reat including
stainless tie-down straps. Some things you have to think
> about: Provisions for a flexible line to run from the tank to your fuel s> elector
valve; an "Aux" position on your fuel selector valve (I got the A> ndair
valve direct from the factory, which has the added benefit of being> directional,
i.e., handle points to the correct wing); and a removable v> ent somewhere
in area of the baggage skin. 15 gallons should not exceed
> the 100# limitation of the baggage compartment and could provide up to 2
> hours more fuel. Not including the fuel selector valve, a little over a
> $100 for everything you need.
>
> I may never use it but it's there if I should ever need it.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-6, Firewall Forward
> Vero Beach, FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary Gunn
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: aux tanks
>
>
> Has anybody installed auxiliary fuel tanks for the RV-6 other then the
> Jon Johnson tanks?
> I like Jon's design but they are way too expensive. Looking for some
> ideas to try. I have thought about a tip tank attached to the outer
> rib(s) or a removable baggage compartment tank. thoughts?
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 (waiting on finish kit).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc |
HELP, Pleeease!
I have read all the product information available on the website for the Garmin
295 and Bendix Skymap IIIc, and can't make up my mind on which one would be the
best buy. Although both units are portable, I would probably choose to mount
the Skymap on the radio stack since it is much larger than the Garmin. However,
I would like to hear from anyone who has used either one (or both) and provide
an unbias opinion on their real world flying features.
Clearly, Garmin's 295 is cheaper, but it appears that the Skymap unit has topographical
information included and a larger screen. Here are some of my questions:
a. Which one has the brighter display in direct sunlight?
b. Are buttons on either unit intuitive to use?
c. Is the larger display on the Skymap III an advantage? I mean, since the 295
can be mounted on the glare shield in front of the pilots field of view and the
Skymap would probably be on a semi-permanent installation on the radio stack,
Doesn't the close proximity of 295 to the pilot's eyes better and clearer?
d. Does anyone have reliability info?
e. Is there a clear favorite?
Please let me know any positive and/or negative experience that you may have with
either unit.
Thanks in advance!
Fabian Lefler
RV-9A
Working on Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary Crowder
Subject: Manual trim cable mount
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.05.28.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doggone piano hinges! |
Maybe it is in the archives but this worked for me -- make a point on the
end of the pin that is on one side. Then rotate the pin as you push and
hope that the next eye gets snagged by the off center point.
hal
RV6a flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Manual trim cable bracket |
Gary,
Where can we find your photoshare page? I would like to see your mods.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary [mailto:rv9er(at)3rivers.net]
Subject: RV-List: Manual trim cable bracket
George.......I posted some photos to the email photoshare page. They
should be available in a day or two. Hope they show up all right. As I
stated in the photoshare, it looks like this part applies to RV-4 and
RV-6 kits using manual trim, as well as my RV-9A. Most likely the 7,
and possibly the 8?
It not only keeps the nut from turning, but also attaches the end of the
cable sheath to the elevator.
Gary
____
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's kit parts
Hello Yall
What model is this CHINZY part supplied for. A few
pictures for the ones of us that are wondering why a
tack welded nut is holding something in place would be
nice. The weld should only be used to keep the nut in
place and prevent turning. It sounds like the manufacturers should
reengineer the part.
George Meketa - RV8 manufacturer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doggone piano hinges! |
All of the piano hinges on the airframe are tighter now than they will be
after some flight time. As long as you can get the suckers in don't worry
about it, they *will* loosen up.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> On my own flaps, I found the hinges would only go in the first 1/3 to 1/2
> of the way with the flaps hanging down. They would simply not budge past
> this point.
>
> I noticed as I lifted the flap up, I could progressively get the hinge in
> further and further using long needle nose pliers from the top. The last
> few inches, however, would again not budge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
> Where is everyone going that they need 6 hours of non-stop flying?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
Ed;
How about everywhere & anywhere! We don't all live or travel in
urban areas where you can't chuck a rock without hitting an airstrip. If I
fly 4 hours north to a bush strip with no service, how the heck am I going
to get back? And what if I want to fly around while I'm up there? Just
because I have the capacity, doesn't mean I will be packing that extra
weight all the time, but when I need it all I have to do is fill 'er up.
hours is a necessity. Don't judge others' needs by your own limitations.
Todd -"The only time you can have too much fuel is when you're on fire"-
Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
RE: RV-List: aux tanks
Where is everyone going that they need
6 hours of non-stop flying?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Ed;
How about everywhere anywhere! We don't
all live or travel in urban areas where you can't chuck a rock without
hitting an airstrip. If I fly 4 hours north to a bush strip with no
service, how the heck am I going to get back? And what if I want to fly
around while I'm up there? Just because I have the capacity, doesn't
mean I will be packing that extra weight all the time, but when I need
it all I have to do is fill 'er up.
For some a few extra hours is a real help, for
others a lot of extra hours is a necessity. Don't judge others' needs
by your own limitations.
Todd -The only time you can have too much fuel
is when you're on fire-
Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
The only reason I can see for having the extra fuel is if you plan on record
flights or are filing IFR. If weather dictates an alternate must be filed
you legally need fuel to fly to destination, alternate plus IFR reserves.
while you might only want to fly for 3 hours or so it is easy to get in a
situation where you "need" to depart with six with only a slight chance you
will actually need it.....
Unless you are flying in a lot of IMC conditions at your destination this
isn't usually an issue, however.
RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc |
> I have read all the product information available on the website for the
Garmin 295 and Bendix Skymap IIIc, and can't make up my mind on which one
would be the best buy. Although both units are portable, I would probably
choose to mount the Skymap on the radio stack since it is much larger than
the Garmin. However, I would like to hear from anyone who has used either
one (or both) and provide an unbias opinion on their real world flying
features.
>
> Clearly, Garmin's 295 is cheaper, but it appears that the Skymap unit has
topographical information included and a larger screen. Here are some of my
questions:
>
> a. Which one has the brighter display in direct sunlight?
> b. Are buttons on either unit intuitive to use?
> c. Is the larger display on the Skymap III an advantage? I mean, since
the 295 can be mounted on the glare shield in front of the pilots field of
view and the Skymap would probably be on a semi-permanent installation on
the radio stack, Doesn't the close proximity of 295 to the pilot's eyes
better and clearer?
> d. Does anyone have reliability info?
> e. Is there a clear favorite?
> Please let me know any positive and/or negative experience that you may
have with either unit.
> Thanks in advance!
> Fabian Lefler
> RV-9A
> Working on Fuselage
I now fly with the 295, having upgraded recently from the Pilot III. When I
switched I *almost* bought the KMD-150 which is the non-portable verison of
the Skymap III. The main reasons I went with the 295 over the King were the
built-in battery backup and the price. Also, I prefer the user interface of
the Garmin. Actually the operating systems and logic are fairly similar, but
given a choice I'd go with the Garmin. That said, the Garmin is more
challenging to mount. Glareshields are fairly straightforward but I wanted
mine in/on the panel and so after much head scratching came up with a mount.
I'll post pictures soon of my 2nd panel with this mount solution.
In answer to your questions...
a. The Skymap will be just slightly brighter, but either will work well.
b. Advantage to the Garmin here, but both are easy.
c. Because the Garmin has smaller/finer pixels, and because it is fairly
close to my face, I found no advantage to the larger screen. In fact the
Garmin has an advantage here because it will display the map AND the HSI at
the same time. I don't remember if the Skymap will do that or not.
d. Haven't neard a negative thing about either one. and also wouldn't worry
about it.
e. No, sorry.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 155 hrs, just finished first Condition Inspection
www.rv-8.com
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Ken,
I have the same gauge and have had no problems with it other then it wanders
along with the amp gauge during radio keyed. If it were contaminated there
should be evidence of the contamination in the first unit as well as the
clear hose they supplied.
Are you certain that it is not being over loaded by the gauge. These MAP
sensors are used in many automobiles. They are supplied with power and
ground, and will produce a digital variable duty cycle signal back to the
gauge. I don't quite know why Vans unit has a fourth wire??? One thing that
I have seen in automotive CPUs is a partial short on the signal line that
draws too much current from the sensor thereby over loading it, but the
partial short still allows the unit to read while the sensor lasts.
I don't know exactly how Vans has set this circuit up internally, but if you
find no evidence of contamination I would say its very possible the gauge is
over loading the sensor signal output.
W
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Van's M.P. gauge
Hello,
I used all Van's analog engine gauges in my new "6" and I'm happy with
all of them except the manifold pressure gauge. It is an electric gauge
and there is a small hose that goes from the sender (mounted behind the
panel) to a fitting on the firewall. From there I have an aeroquip hose
going to #4 cylinder. My problem is that the gauge slowly began to read
less and less over about 15 to 20 hours until it finally gave up and
pegged to the high side and never moved until I turned off the master. I
replaced the sender portion of the unit and fixed the problem. Now after
a few hours it is starting to go bad again. I could replace the sender
again but it is not likely the problem.
Tech help at Vans thinks it may be due to contamination and that I
should consider mounting the sender in such a way that the hose attached
to the sender vertically rather than horizontally, like I've done.
Although he thought this was a long shot.
They are using this gauge in some of their demo planes with good
success.
Can any of you help me isolate the problem.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Ken Cantrell
RV-6 flying 38 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | F-746 Aft Engine Control Bracket |
Can someone who is building an RV-7 or 9 provide the dimensions for the
F-746 AFT Engine Control Bracket that is depicted on Dwg. 24 of the
preview plans. It appears to be an aluminum angle about 1" X 1 3/4" and
about 9 1/2 inches long. Is the thickness 0.125 or 0.063 ? I am
planning on similar installation in an RV6.
Thanks - JDN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Dear Todd,
What is the Empty Weight on your rotary powered RV-9(E), and what is your
Gross Weight when fully loaded (& fully filled up), for Long Range Travel?
Konrad
> > Where is everyone going that they need 6 hours of non-stop flying?
> > Ed Cole
>
> Ed;
> How about everywhere & anywhere! We don't all live or travel in
> urban areas where you can't chuck a rock without hitting an airstrip. If I
> fly 4 hours north to a bush strip with no service, how the heck am I going
> to get back? And what if I want to fly around while I'm up there? Just
> because I have the capacity, doesn't mean I will be packing that extra
> weight all the time, but when I need it all I have to do is fill 'er up.
> hours is a necessity. Don't judge others' needs by your own limitations.
>
> Todd -"The only time you can have too much fuel is when you're on fire"-
> Bartrim
> 13B rotary powered
> RV-9endurance (finish kit)
> C-FSTB (reserved)
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | What's the best materials to use when modifying the cowling air |
In-Take Scoop?
I'm modifying the air in-take scoop (actually lowering it about 2/3 of an
inch); What's the best/strongest materials to use?
I've been given various suggestions... ie. carbon graphite with gel coat,
chop weave fiberglass, bias cut fiberglass, etc... Anyone know for sure?
And what about prep? I was going to wire brush or rough sand the inside of
the cowling, wipe with acetone and then lay-up the fiberglass/resin soaked
cloth.. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Doggone piano hinges! special tool |
See repost below.
Ed Holyoke
>
> >
> > I am having an inordinate amount of trouble getting the flap mounted
on
>my
> > right (last one, gang!) wing. Is there an accepted method for
making
>sure
> > all those blankety-blank eylets on the piano hinge are lined up?
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>It may be too late for this, but did you put the piano hinge pin in
while
>drilling and riveting the hinge in place? This helps keep the hinge
>eyelets
>lined up during drilling and riveting.
>If they are already drilled and riveted in place, make sure the end of
the
>hinge pins are rounded off and lubricate them with some dry lubricant
like
>BoLube. Sometimes you can spin them in with a drill. As a last
resort,
>slide the pin in one hinge at a time and using a pair of pliers, gently
>adjust the hinge eyelets as you slide the pin in until they are
straight
>and
>the pin will slide in smoothly. Don't leave scratch marks on the
eyelets
>or
>you may create stress points.
>
>Hope something here helps.
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
>RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
>www.ericsrv6a.com
>I too went with the split pins, but found that it would be impossible
to
install the pins after assembly without dorking up my paint.
Bob Hasson
Tucson, AZ
RV-6A N606BH (156 hours)
Begin repost:
>I did the "cut hinge pin in half, insert in two pieces from centre" mod
>myself. It works fine - until the top wings skins are on and the wings
are
>on the fuselage. Then I find it quite difficult to get into the gap
>around the curved forward section of the flap to install the hinge pin.
No,
>my fingers are not especially fat, it's just they're not 8 inches long!
My
>hinge is set so that max reasonable flap movement is about 60 degs or
so.
If
>the flap when it 90 digs this would make things a lot easier but the
wing
>flap gap would have to be much larger (and uglier).
>
>Has anyone come up with a clever tool or gadget to assist with this
job?
>Jim Oke
>RV-3
>RV-6A
OK, I made the special tool last night.
When the flap is down 90 degrees there's enough room to start the pin,
but it's really hard to push in until you put the flap up. Then the
hinge eyes line up a lot better but your hand no longer fits. What's
needed is tool that keeps the hinge pin straight while you push it in.
My pins have bent ends which I insert into holes drilled into the flap
spar for locking. But how to get them in?
I put in the outboard hinge half first. I could only just get the
inboard hinge started and couldn't push it home. I cast about the shop
and stumbled across a piece of 3/4" copper pipe left over from plumbing
my shop air. With the aileron (short) pushrod off and the aileron
hanging down out of the way, I pushed the copper pipe over the bent end
of the pin and to about an inch short of the center of flap (so as to
not kink it where it goes into the hinge eye). Then, on a second cast
about the shop, low and behold, I found a 5/8" dowel that I had used for
bending leading edges of elevators which fits nicely in the copper pipe.
Put the flap up, hold the pipe, push the dowel - went in very easy.
I haven't tried it, but a variation should work on the outboard half:
Start the pin as (much as you can get), put a string with loop tied into
the end over the bend and feed the pipe over it. You might have to tape
the string on the bend to keep it from sliding down and off the pin.
Then close up the flap with the pipe and string where your hand won't
fit anymore. When you pull the string, the pipe will keep the pin
straight and prevent the string from coming off till the deed is done.
Removal is real easy: String on pin, close flap, pull, repeat, flap
falls into waiting hand.
Ed Holyoke
6qb N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Doggone piano hinges! special tool |
Slight tangent:
What's the verdict on bending hinge pins? Through the tail and wing
kits, I just bent them with a pliers or vise. No problems. Then
somewhere in the fuse kit, I came across the rule that you "always" heat
the pin to bend it. I tried this with a small propane torch, and the
pin broke in two while bending it. What gives?!
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> See repost below.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
[snip]
>
> OK, I made the special tool last night.
> When the flap is down 90 degrees there's enough room to start
> the pin, but it's really hard to push in until you put the
> flap up. Then the hinge eyes line up a lot better but your
> hand no longer fits. What's needed is tool that keeps the
> hinge pin straight while you push it in. My pins have bent
> ends which I insert into holes drilled into the flap spar for
> locking. But how to get them in?
>
> I put in the outboard hinge half first. I could only just get
> the inboard hinge started and couldn't push it home. I cast
> about the shop and stumbled across a piece of 3/4" copper
> pipe left over from plumbing my shop air. With the aileron
> (short) pushrod off and the aileron hanging down out of the
> way, I pushed the copper pipe over the bent end of the pin
> and to about an inch short of the center of flap (so as to
> not kink it where it goes into the hinge eye). Then, on a
> second cast about the shop, low and behold, I found a 5/8"
> dowel that I had used for bending leading edges of elevators
> which fits nicely in the copper pipe. Put the flap up, hold
> the pipe, push the dowel - went in very easy.
>
> I haven't tried it, but a variation should work on the
> outboard half: Start the pin as (much as you can get), put a
> string with loop tied into the end over the bend and feed the
> pipe over it. You might have to tape the string on the bend
> to keep it from sliding down and off the pin. Then close up
> the flap with the pipe and string where your hand won't fit
> anymore. When you pull the string, the pipe will keep the
> pin straight and prevent the string from coming off till the
> deed is done.
>
> Removal is real easy: String on pin, close flap, pull,
> repeat, flap falls into waiting hand.
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6qb N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-746 Aft Engine Control Bracket |
.040 3 x 9-1/2 with 1" bent up.
Albert Gardner RV-9A 9-0132
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
>
> Can someone who is building an RV-7 or 9 provide the dimensions for the
> F-746 AFT Engine Control Bracket that is depicted on Dwg. 24 of the
> preview plans. It appears to be an aluminum angle about 1" X 1 3/4" and
> about 9 1/2 inches long. Is the thickness 0.125 or 0.063 ? I am
> planning on similar installation in an RV6.
>
> Thanks - JDN
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc |
Fabian ,
I've flown with both of these units. The Skymap will mount in a standard
radio stack since it's 6.25" wide. A good choice if that's your mounting
option.
The Garmin is truly portable, has more mounting options, although I usually
use the beanbag mount on the glareshield. As you know it also has batteries
that don't last terribly long, but if you lose the ships power, you've got
some time.
The Garmin has all north american instrument approaches in thedatabase, the
Skymap does not (didn't at the time I used it). The Skymap does show
obstructions however and the Garmin does not.
The HSI on the Garmin is superior to the CDI display on the Skymap, and can
be displayed at the same time as the map, albiet a small one! That's where
the Skymap has the biggest advantage, the large map size.
Garmins software updates (operating system) are on thier web site and quite
easy to download as is the Jeppesen database. I can't comment on the Slymap
having never updated one.
Best of luck,
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
When thinking of range with these RV's, consider not just the fuel
capacity, but consider also the fuel burn. I have a Airflow Performance
injected O-360, C/S, LASAR equipped 6A. At engine settings of 22",
2300rpm, 20 degrees C lean of peak, 8500', it burns 7.5 gph. This is
something around 58% power. At these settings, I will true at around
160+ knots. The fuel injection allows me to lean to those settings
without any roughness because all cylinders peak at the same time. The
constant speed allows for nearly open throttle (and relatively quiet
cockpit), reducing induction inefficiencies. Finally, the LASAR
advances the spark to 37 degrees at these settings. These things all
add up - my 38 gallon plane has a four hour range with a one hour
reserve.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 152 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc |
OK, my 2 cents worth
I have not flown with the 295, but have with the 195 and pilot (and also,
430 and 530).
I have flown all over the country in 2 different airplanes with my skymap
IIIc. I like it the best for VFR flying. The big map display is great, I
never use the electronic HSI since I have a DG to look at. When the weather
is low, having obstructions displayed is paramount. Terrain is nice too here
in the west for planning ahead. I also like the way it shows you your flight
plan course (purple line) and your ground track (white line). All you do is
lay one on the other, then you have a 50-50 chance of getting there.
I have now installed the skymap permanantly in the panel of my 8, see it at
http://www.lazy8.net/panelrv8.htm
By the way, updates are easy, order a new card, swap, then mail the old card
back.
LOL, John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv8don(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc
Fabian ,
I've flown with both of these units. The Skymap will mount in a standard
radio stack since it's 6.25" wide. A good choice if that's your mounting
option.
The Garmin is truly portable, has more mounting options, although I usually
use the beanbag mount on the glareshield. As you know it also has batteries
that don't last terribly long, but if you lose the ships power, you've got
some time.
The Garmin has all north american instrument approaches in thedatabase, the
Skymap does not (didn't at the time I used it). The Skymap does show
obstructions however and the Garmin does not.
The HSI on the Garmin is superior to the CDI display on the Skymap, and can
be displayed at the same time as the map, albiet a small one! That's where
the Skymap has the biggest advantage, the large map size.
Garmins software updates (operating system) are on thier web site and quite
easy to download as is the Jeppesen database. I can't comment on the Slymap
having never updated one.
Best of luck,
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland brake problems |
I lost my right brake the other day, fortunately while turning into a
parking spot, and fortunately it wasn't crowded. Today I repaired it. What
happens is the brake pads wear down and the increased squeeze distance
required allows the brake piston to come out of the cylinder, or close
enough to expose the O-ring which then blows out from the brake pressure.
This almost happened before (there are 800 hrs on these brakes) but I caught
it when it was simply leaking brake fluid. This time I didn't have that
warning.
I was wondering if perhaps I was given the wrong piston originally. The
inner pad was worn to where the rivets were just about to start rubbing. It
seems to me they should be designed such that the entire pad could be worn
off without total failure. If the piston was taller, then the O-ring would
remain moreso in the cylinder. My pads when new have to have shims
fabricated in order to even allow the rotor to turn freely. I know of
others who have had this problem also. Between these two problems it seems
that I have wrong parts somewhere.
Also note that if the brake line gets painted, it is VERY hard to
reflare the tube should the end get damaged because the fittings won't slide
up and out of the way of the flaring tool.(you did remember to slide them on
first, right?!) Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 vs Skymap IIIc |
Randy,
Thanks for the input. This is the kind of info I was looking for which you won't
find in any website.
Hope to see you at a fly-in some day.
Regards
Fabian
>>> randy@rv-8.com 05/28/02 06:11PM >>>
> I have read all the product information available on the website for the
Garmin 295 and Bendix Skymap IIIc, and can't make up my mind on which one
would be the best buy. Although both units are portable, I would probably
choose to mount the Skymap on the radio stack since it is much larger than
the Garmin. However, I would like to hear from anyone who has used either
one (or both) and provide an unbias opinion on their real world flying
features.
>
> Clearly, Garmin's 295 is cheaper, but it appears that the Skymap unit has
topographical information included and a larger screen. Here are some of my
questions:
>
> a. Which one has the brighter display in direct sunlight?
> b. Are buttons on either unit intuitive to use?
> c. Is the larger display on the Skymap III an advantage? I mean, since
the 295 can be mounted on the glare shield in front of the pilots field of
view and the Skymap would probably be on a semi-permanent installation on
the radio stack, Doesn't the close proximity of 295 to the pilot's eyes
better and clearer?
> d. Does anyone have reliability info?
> e. Is there a clear favorite?
> Please let me know any positive and/or negative experience that you may
have with either unit.
> Thanks in advance!
> Fabian Lefler
> RV-9A
> Working on Fuselage
I now fly with the 295, having upgraded recently from the Pilot III. When I
switched I *almost* bought the KMD-150 which is the non-portable verison of
the Skymap III. The main reasons I went with the 295 over the King were the
built-in battery backup and the price. Also, I prefer the user interface of
the Garmin. Actually the operating systems and logic are fairly similar, but
given a choice I'd go with the Garmin. That said, the Garmin is more
challenging to mount. Glareshields are fairly straightforward but I wanted
mine in/on the panel and so after much head scratching came up with a mount.
I'll post pictures soon of my 2nd panel with this mount solution.
In answer to your questions...
a. The Skymap will be just slightly brighter, but either will work well.
b. Advantage to the Garmin here, but both are easy.
c. Because the Garmin has smaller/finer pixels, and because it is fairly
close to my face, I found no advantage to the larger screen. In fact the
Garmin has an advantage here because it will display the map AND the HSI at
the same time. I don't remember if the Skymap will do that or not.
d. Haven't neard a negative thing about either one. and also wouldn't worry
about it.
e. No, sorry.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 155 hrs, just finished first Condition Inspection
www.rv-8.com
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting the panel - Vision Micro |
Hello-
Looking for tips on cutting the panel to accomodate a
Vision Microsystems VM1000.
Mine is backordered a few months - I was going to use
the dimensions from the manual that I got at
Sun-n-fun. Is this accurate? What are the
tolerances?
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Gary;
Mine failed in flight on my 4 for that very reason.
I made a new bracket out of angle aluminum and tack
welded/pro-sealed the nut on the flat part of the
angle and pop-riveted the other angle to the old
attach point. It doesn't budge....
Rob
--- Email List Photo Shares
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Email List Photo
> Shares
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Gary Crowder
>
>
RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List
>
> Subject: Manual trim cable mount
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.05.28.2002/index.html
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
> o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
>
> Share your files and photos with other List
> members simply by
> emailing the files to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
> Please view the typical Share above and include
> the Description Text
> Fields as shown along with your submission of
> files and photos.
>
> o Main Photo Share Index:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
The F-746 is used for both the forward and aft engine control brackets.
It is 1 7/8 by 9 1/2, with a 1 inch wide flange...........063 thick.
Gary
From: "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-746 Aft Engine Control Bracket
Can someone who is building an RV-7 or 9 provide the dimensions for the
F-746 AFT Engine Control Bracket that is depicted on Dwg. 24 of the
preview plans. It appears to be an aluminum angle about 1" X 1 3/4" and
about 9 1/2 inches long. Is the thickness 0.125 or 0.063 ? I am
planning on similar installation in an RV6.
Thanks - JDN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Twisted QB Fuselage |
When leveling the fuselage for empennage mounting, we discovered that
the level bubbles weren't identical between the one laid across the
longerons by the roll bar and one that was laid across the longerons
back by the turtle deck. This is an RV-8 quickbuild and this twist in
the fuselage caused the top aft skin to bulge on one side, creating a
noticeable gap between the skin and the 810A bulkhead on the left side.
Upon further scrutiny, we found and marked for drilling out several
other skin rivets on the 809 bulkhead further forward that barely had
tails on them and with the aid of a flashlight, we could see significant
light between the skin and the flange on the inside.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with the QB fuselage, or did
mine just happen to get done on Friday afternoon? It would lead me to
believe that their jig wasn't perfect, or that if the jig was good, that
the positioning of the fuse frame in it was off. Anyway, with the help
of an .032 shim between skin and bulkhead flange on the 810A (left
side), and an .063 countersunk shim between skin and flange on the 809
(also left side), we were able to take all the gaps out, but what a
pain!
My expectations of a straight-flyin' hands-off airplane are slowly
evaporating, but I guess that's what trim is for! 8>) At least now we
can mount the empennage and see what it will take to get that on
straight/square/plum, etc.
Ken Brooks
No Joy on the UPS truck from Bluemountain....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twisted QB Fuselage |
> When leveling the fuselage for empennage mounting, we discovered that
> the level bubbles weren't identical between the one laid across the
> longerons by the roll bar and one that was laid across the longerons
> back by the turtle deck. This is an RV-8 quickbuild and this twist in
> the fuselage caused the top aft skin to bulge on one side, creating a
> noticeable gap between the skin and the 810A bulkhead on the left side.
> Upon further scrutiny, we found and marked for drilling out several
> other skin rivets on the 809 bulkhead further forward that barely had
> tails on them and with the aid of a flashlight, we could see significant
> light between the skin and the flange on the inside.
>
> Has anyone else had a similar experience with the QB fuselage, or did
> mine just happen to get done on Friday afternoon?
Please confirm this, but my understanding was that Van's tolerance for twist
is 2.0 degrees. Anything greater and they reject it, anything less and they
ship it. My slowbuild fuse came in at .4 degrees off. Not wanting to mess
with shims that small, I mounted my HS square, and I split the difference
mounting my VS .2 degrees off.
You can only quantify these differences with a SmartTool digital level
available from all the usual tool suppliers (Avery, Cleaveland, etc.). To
those builders just starting out, I highly recommend you acquire or borrow
one of these. There are many places along the way where knowing precise
angles make your setup more accurate and easier. For example when doing
control surface deflections: get the surface in trail, measure the angle,
move to the limit, measure again, subract one value from the other and
voila.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 155 hours, back cover 2002 Van's calendar
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Cutting the panel - Vision Micro |
Dag,
Vision Micro emailed an autocad file to me that I then took to a local laser
cutting operation to cut the hole. It cost me about $40.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 Classic, 9 hours
Hello-
Looking for tips on cutting the panel to accomodate a
Vision Microsystems VM1000.
Mine is backordered a few months - I was going to use
the dimensions from the manual that I got at
Sun-n-fun. Is this accurate? What are the
tolerances?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Twisted QB Fuselage |
In a message dated 5/29/02 11:26:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kdbrv8r(at)charter.net writes:
<< When leveling the fuselage for empennage mounting, we discovered that
the level bubbles weren't identical between the one laid across the
longerons by the roll bar and one that was laid across the longerons
back by the turtle deck. >>
A local builder discovered a similar situation on his 6A QB. He figured out
what it would take to correct the situation to his standards and negotiated a
rebate from the factory to cover his time. I seem to remember that Vans
provided him the necessary replacement part(s)..
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Twisted QB Fuselage |
01:43:26 PM
Some things never change I guess. Ask ole Rob Acker about twists in
quickbuilds. He has one of the first. On a brighter note, how many RV's
have you ever seen that did not have a trim tab on the rudder? The plane
will fly fine, just like every other RV. Fix what you can and then move on
to more important things. You are flying through a rolling boiling angry
cauldron of liquid, the airframe does not have to be perfect to fly well.
Do as much as you can and then forget about it.
Hope it helps a little
Eric
"Ken Brooks" (at)matronics.com on 05/29/2002 11:24:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Twisted QB Fuselage
When leveling the fuselage for empennage mounting, we discovered that
the level bubbles weren't identical between the one laid across the
longerons by the roll bar and one that was laid across the longerons
back by the turtle deck. This is an RV-8 quickbuild and this twist in
the fuselage caused the top aft skin to bulge on one side, creating a
noticeable gap between the skin and the 810A bulkhead on the left side.
Upon further scrutiny, we found and marked for drilling out several
other skin rivets on the 809 bulkhead further forward that barely had
tails on them and with the aid of a flashlight, we could see significant
light between the skin and the flange on the inside.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with the QB fuselage, or did
mine just happen to get done on Friday afternoon? It would lead me to
believe that their jig wasn't perfect, or that if the jig was good, that
the positioning of the fuse frame in it was off. Anyway, with the help
of an .032 shim between skin and bulkhead flange on the 810A (left
side), and an .063 countersunk shim between skin and flange on the 809
(also left side), we were able to take all the gaps out, but what a
pain!
My expectations of a straight-flyin' hands-off airplane are slowly
evaporating, but I guess that's what trim is for! 8>) At least now we
can mount the empennage and see what it will take to get that on
straight/square/plum, etc.
Ken Brooks
No Joy on the UPS truck from Bluemountain....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twisted QB Fuselage |
I agree with Eric. My wings would not get perfectly in sweep. My right
wing was foward about 3/4" at the outside. I also had very hard left yaw and
a heavy wing. I offset my VS and now she's flies hands off. Minor twists
and things will not make these planes fall out of the sky. It would take a
really crooked fuselage to not fly. Heck, put a barn door on a canoe at the
right angle and you can fly that if you want. Build it and drive on. Minor
corrections can be made down the road if necessary. Trim tab, aileron
squeeze, VS offset, whatever.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Twisted QB Fuselage
>
>
> Some things never change I guess. Ask ole Rob Acker about twists in
> quickbuilds. He has one of the first. On a brighter note, how many RV's
> have you ever seen that did not have a trim tab on the rudder? The plane
> will fly fine, just like every other RV. Fix what you can and then move on
> to more important things. You are flying through a rolling boiling angry
> cauldron of liquid, the airframe does not have to be perfect to fly well.
> Do as much as you can and then forget about it.
>
> Hope it helps a little
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Ken Brooks" (at)matronics.com on 05/29/2002 11:24:18 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: "rv-list"
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: Twisted QB Fuselage
>
>
> When leveling the fuselage for empennage mounting, we discovered that
> the level bubbles weren't identical between the one laid across the
> longerons by the roll bar and one that was laid across the longerons
> back by the turtle deck. This is an RV-8 quickbuild and this twist in
> the fuselage caused the top aft skin to bulge on one side, creating a
> noticeable gap between the skin and the 810A bulkhead on the left side.
> Upon further scrutiny, we found and marked for drilling out several
> other skin rivets on the 809 bulkhead further forward that barely had
> tails on them and with the aid of a flashlight, we could see significant
> light between the skin and the flange on the inside.
>
> Has anyone else had a similar experience with the QB fuselage, or did
> mine just happen to get done on Friday afternoon? It would lead me to
> believe that their jig wasn't perfect, or that if the jig was good, that
> the positioning of the fuse frame in it was off. Anyway, with the help
> of an .032 shim between skin and bulkhead flange on the 810A (left
> side), and an .063 countersunk shim between skin and flange on the 809
> (also left side), we were able to take all the gaps out, but what a
> pain!
>
> My expectations of a straight-flyin' hands-off airplane are slowly
> evaporating, but I guess that's what trim is for! 8>) At least now we
> can mount the empennage and see what it will take to get that on
> straight/square/plum, etc.
>
> Ken Brooks
> No Joy on the UPS truck from Bluemountain....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
>
> Dear Todd,
> What is the Empty Weight on your rotary powered RV-9(E), and what is your
> Gross Weight when fully loaded (& fully filled up), for Long Range Travel?
> Konrad
>
Hi Konrad;
I'm aiming for an empty weight of 1110 lbs. I have 5 auxiliary tanks
at 5 lbs. each (empty) & 7lbs. of extra fuel fittings, valves & tubing, as
well as gear mounts for both taildragger & tricycle gear. On all other items
I am working hard to reduce weight. This includes a light weight EFIS
system.
Gross weight when fully fueled and loaded will be approx.
* empty weight 1110 lbs.
* Pilot 200 lbs.
* co-pilot 105 lbs.
* main wing fuel 216.6 lbs.
* auxiliary wing fuel 204.6 lbs.
* wingtip fuel 84.2 lbs.
* header fuel 30.1 lbs.
* cargo 50 lbs.
* total gross weight 2000.5
Transport Canada's wing loading formula allows for a gross weight of
2230 lbs. While I plan on a personal limit of 2000lbs. I will apply for the
max permissible,
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
>
RE: RV-List: aux tanks
-- RV-List message posted by:
Konrad Werner Connywerner(at)wans.net
Dear Todd,
What is the Empty Weight on your
rotary powered RV-9(E), and what is your
Gross Weight when fully loaded (
fully filled up), for Long Range Travel?
Konrad
Hi Konrad;
I'm aiming for an empty weight of 1110 lbs. I
have 5 auxiliary tanks at 5 lbs. each (empty) 7lbs. of extra fuel
fittings, valves tubing, as well as gear mounts for both
taildragger tricycle gear. On all other items I am working hard
to reduce weight. This includes a light weight EFIS system.
Gross weight when fully fueled and loaded will
be approx.
empty
weight 1110 lbs.
Pilot 200
lbs.
co-pilot 105 lbs.
main wing
fuel 216.6 lbs.
auxiliary wing
fuel 204.6 lbs.
wingtip fuel
84.2 lbs.
header fuel
30.1 lbs.
cargo 50
lbs.
total gross
weight 2000.5
Transport Canada's wing loading formula allows for a
gross weight of 2230 lbs. While I plan on a personal limit of 2000lbs.
I will apply for the max permissible,
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
Hi All,
Here is an update on my oil temp problems and solutions that may be of some use
for future builders.
The engine is a Lycoming O-320 H2AD mounted in an RV-6A. The oil cooler was a Niagara
7 row cooler mounted on the firewall with a 3" scat running to it. My
oil temps were acceptable in the winter time but as summer time came with it's
90 degree temps down here in the south, I found that the oil cooling was inadequate.
During my trip to Sun N' Fun, I was at gross weight with my father-in-law (250
lbs.) and myself (240 lbs.) and other stuff on board. The Florida Temps were
in the low 90's and fairly high humidity. On climb out from Perry-Foley airport,
my oil temp reached 245 degrees Fahrenheit with a cruise climb of 160 mph.
Cruise temps at 4500 feet were 230 degrees Fahrenheit.
Here is a list of some things I tried:
1. Installed a "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney on the oil filter and ran a 1" blast
tube to it.
2. Sealed up all baffles better.
3. Increased opening on bottom cowl by 30 square inches.
4. Sealed up the gaps around the oil cooler/scat tube adapter.
The above lowered the temps by 10 degrees but still inadequate. So my next tactic
was to relocate the oil cooler from the firewall to the back of the baffle.
I made the opening at the back of the baffle exactly fit the opening in the
oil cooler so there would be no obstruction at all.
Results - Climb at gross weight on a 90 degree day was still 230 degrees and cruise
was 210 degrees.
Better but still too hot for me, so I next replaced the 7 row Niagara cooler with
a 9 row Aero-Classics oil cooler from Pacific Oil Cooler Service for $205.
plus shipping.
Results - 90 degree day, gross weight climb to 8,000 at 130 mph = 210 degrees,
cruise at 75% power at 8,000 ft = 185 degrees.
The above is based on my personal experience and your results may differ. Also
note the engine was just overhauled about 40 hours ago and has just gotten broken
in. The oil consumption has now stabilized. Th cylinder head temps stay
at around 375f for climb and 325f for cruise all the time.
Hope this helps someone else,
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying and ready for Waco this weekend (if the weather is good))
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps |
Eric,
Good data for the archives for others, thanks for posting it. To anyone
interested in this issue my oil temps were a bit high, although not as high
as Eric's, so I did a cooler swap from a Niagara to a Stewart Warner,
supposedly the best there is (although also the most expensive). The results
were measureable and can be seen on my web site at...
http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm#Oil%20cooler
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 155 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: High Oil Temps
>
> Hi All,
> Here is an update on my oil temp problems and solutions that may be of
some use for future builders.
>
> The engine is a Lycoming O-320 H2AD mounted in an RV-6A. The oil cooler
was a Niagara 7 row cooler mounted on the firewall with a 3" scat running to
it. My oil temps were acceptable in the winter time but as summer time came
with it's 90 degree temps down here in the south, I found that the oil
cooling was inadequate.
>
> During my trip to Sun N' Fun, I was at gross weight with my father-in-law
(250 lbs.) and myself (240 lbs.) and other stuff on board. The Florida
Temps were in the low 90's and fairly high humidity. On climb out from
Perry-Foley airport, my oil temp reached 245 degrees Fahrenheit with a
cruise climb of 160 mph. Cruise temps at 4500 feet were 230 degrees
Fahrenheit.
>
> Here is a list of some things I tried:
>
> 1. Installed a "Cool Collar" from JC Whitney on the oil filter and ran a
1" blast tube to it.
> 2. Sealed up all baffles better.
> 3. Increased opening on bottom cowl by 30 square inches.
> 4. Sealed up the gaps around the oil cooler/scat tube adapter.
>
> The above lowered the temps by 10 degrees but still inadequate. So my
next tactic was to relocate the oil cooler from the firewall to the back of
the baffle. I made the opening at the back of the baffle exactly fit the
opening in the oil cooler so there would be no obstruction at all.
>
> Results - Climb at gross weight on a 90 degree day was still 230 degrees
and cruise was 210 degrees.
>
> Better but still too hot for me, so I next replaced the 7 row Niagara
cooler with a 9 row Aero-Classics oil cooler from Pacific Oil Cooler Service
for $205. plus shipping.
>
> Results - 90 degree day, gross weight climb to 8,000 at 130 mph = 210
degrees, cruise at 75% power at 8,000 ft = 185 degrees.
>
> The above is based on my personal experience and your results may differ.
Also note the engine was just overhauled about 40 hours ago and has just
gotten broken in. The oil consumption has now stabilized. Th cylinder head
temps stay at around 375f for climb and 325f for cruise all the time.
>
> Hope this helps someone else,
>
> Regards,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A - N57ME (Flying and ready for Waco this weekend (if the weather is
good))
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Just out of curiosity, will you/have you done anything to beef up the landing gear
to handle the additional weight?
Blue Skies,
Brad
brad@cds-inc.com
RV6A-SQB (slow quick build)
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 5/29/2002 at 12:56 PM Bartrim, Todd wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Todd,
>> What is the Empty Weight on your rotary powered RV-9(E), and what is your
>> Gross Weight when fully loaded (& fully filled up), for Long Range
>Travel?
>> Konrad
>>
> Hi Konrad;
> I'm aiming for an empty weight of 1110 lbs. I have 5 auxiliary
>tanks
>at 5 lbs. each (empty) & 7lbs. of extra fuel fittings, valves & tubing, as
>well as gear mounts for both taildragger & tricycle gear. On all other
>items
>I am working hard to reduce weight. This includes a light weight EFIS
>system.
> Gross weight when fully fueled and loaded will be approx.
>* empty weight 1110 lbs.
>* Pilot 200 lbs.
>* co-pilot 105 lbs.
>* main wing fuel 216.6 lbs.
>* auxiliary wing fuel 204.6 lbs.
>* wingtip fuel 84.2 lbs.
>* header fuel 30.1 lbs.
>* cargo 50 lbs.
>* total gross weight 2000.5
>
> Transport Canada's wing loading formula allows for a gross weight
>of
>2230 lbs. While I plan on a personal limit of 2000lbs. I will apply for the
>max permissible,
>
>
>S. Todd Bartrim
>13B rotary powered
>RV-9endurance (finish kit)
>C-FSTB (reserved)
>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>5.5.2653.12">
>RE: RV-List: aux tanks
>
>
>
>
-- RV-List message posted by:
>Konrad Werner Connywerner(at)wans.net
>
>
>
Dear Todd,
>
What is the Empty Weight on your
>rotary powered RV-9(E), and what is your
>
Gross Weight when fully loaded (
>fully filled up), for Long Range Travel?
>
Konrad
>
>
>
FACE"Arial">SIZE2 FACE"Arial"> Hi Konrad;
>
SIZE2 FACE"Arial">I'm aiming for an empty weight of 1110 lbs. I
>have 5 auxiliary tanks at 5 lbs. each (empty) 7lbs. of extra fuel
>fittings, valves tubing, as well as gear mounts for both
>taildragger tricycle gear. On all other items I am working hard
>to reduce weight. This includes a light weight EFIS system.
>
>
SIZE2 FACE"Arial">Gross weight when fully fueled and loaded will
>be approx.
>
>empty
>weight 1110 lbs.
>Pilot 200
>lbs.
>FACE"Arial">co-pilot 105 lbs.
>main wing
>fuel 216.6 lbs.
>auxiliary wing
>fuel 204.6 lbs.
>wingtip fuel
>84.2 lbs.
>header fuel
>30.1 lbs.
>cargo 50
>lbs.
>total gross
>weight 2000.5
>
>
>
FACE"Arial">Transport Canada's wing loading formula allows for a
>gross weight of 2230 lbs. While I plan on a personal limit of 2000lbs.
>I will apply for the max permissible,
>
>
>
S. Todd Bartrim
>
13B rotary powered
>
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
>
C-FSTB (reserved)
>
HREF"http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm"
>TARGET"_blank">http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm>T>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
How do you rivet nutplates to fiberglass?
I'm attaching the wing tip lens with #6 screws and nutplates but don't
want to risk cracking the fiberglass with the rivet gun.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
I would use a .032 backing strip between the fiberglass and the nutplate. This
will help the countersinking of the fiberglass (hold the pilot steady--no wobble),
will help distribute the load on the fiberglass, and will help prevent the
rivets from cracking the fiberglass when they are gently squeezed (do not crunch
the rivets!).
Pat Hatch
RV-4, Flying
RV-6, Getting Close
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve J Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
How do you rivet nutplates to fiberglass?
I'm attaching the wing tip lens with #6 screws and nutplates but don't
want to risk cracking the fiberglass with the rivet gun.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 05/28/2002 9:16:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Do you think you could come up a catchy way to get our Airfare on
> Sunday the 9th of June at APV this much free air time. See ya Saturday at
> L45. (providing Tom can find it).
> KABONG 8
)
>
Just let everyone know that the Apple Valley Airport (APV) is about 40 miles
west of Edwards Air Force base. :-)
(Of course, they could end up at L45.)
The Camarillo Air Show is on Aug. 10th and 11th. That would put Camarillo
(CMA) about 60 miles south east of L.A. :-)
Jim Ayers
EAA Chapter 723
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
Squeeze them there rivets with your hand squeezer... that way you get just
they right pressures (also you might want to use the "soft" rivets; Van's
sells them for the wing tips).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve J Hurlbut <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
>
> How do you rivet nutplates to fiberglass?
>
> I'm attaching the wing tip lens with #6 screws and nutplates but don't
> want to risk cracking the fiberglass with the rivet gun.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV-7A
> O-360 A1A
> Fuselage
> http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
TEST
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> |
| Subject: | Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
>
> How do you rivet nutplates to fiberglass?
>
> I'm attaching the wing tip lens with #6 screws and nutplates but don't
> want to risk cracking the fiberglass with the rivet gun.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
>
Use an aluminum backing strip.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
>
RE: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
-- RV-List message posted by:
Steve J Hurlbut sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
How do you rivet nutplates to
fiberglass?
I'm attaching the wing tip lens with
#6 screws and nutplates but don't
want to risk cracking the fiberglass
with the rivet gun.
Steve Hurlbut
Use an aluminum
backing strip.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Test2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Test3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
Hey guys, the nutplate acts as its own backing strip. Countersink and
hand squeeze the REGULAR rivet. Don't use one of those soft ones. You'll
be fine.
Bruce
Glasair III with lots of rivets.
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | stupid mistake on elevator |
Well, I think I screwed this one up... Basically, the elevator counterweight skin
sticks out 1/8 of an inch past the elevator skin because the spar needed it's
length shortened. Naturally, I went ahead and riveted the skin on before checking
this so I guess it serves me right. When doing a quick and dirty trial
fit to the HS, the gap between the HS skin and the counterweight skin (long edge,
not short edge like most people wonder about), appears to be about 1/4" .
I'm wondering, now that I'm a little less disappointed in myself, should I drill
out all my rivets and redo the spar (probably just cut and rivet a new flange)?
It looks like the other elevator has the same problem, although I haven't
riveted that skin on yet. Anyone else make this mistake or experience this problem?
Any suggestions?
I'm building an rv8.
Thanks,
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the panel - Vision Micro |
Dag,
Call Vision and have them send you a router template. They are made of what
looks like .030 aluminum. I cut mine out with a Formica trimming bit from
Sears ( bit cost $9 ) template was free.
- Jim Andrews
N89JA ( flying )
rv8a.tripod.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting the panel - Vision Micro
>
> Hello-
>
> Looking for tips on cutting the panel to accomodate a
> Vision Microsystems VM1000.
>
> Mine is backordered a few months - I was going to use
> the dimensions from the manual that I got at
> Sun-n-fun. Is this accurate? What are the
> tolerances?
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> RV-8A Fuselage
> *****************
>
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
I'm talking about the nutplates that hold the wing tip lens on. (RV-7A)
These are impossible to
May 22, 2002 - May 29, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mw