RV-Archive.digest.vol-my
June 07, 2002 - June 16, 2002
Ed uses a simple 4' long pipe with hundreds of holes drilled
along it & a 'fishmouth' end on the pipe. He had his prop
balanced at the EAA chapter hangar so we were exposed to
several high-power static runs. It was a bit louder than a
typical Lyc with crossover exhaust, but probably not any
louder than a 4-pipe Lyc. However, it is quite different
(higher pitched & sharper edged due to the way the exhaust
port opens). I guess a good analogy would be the difference
between the pleasing sound of a radial vs a 4 cyl Lyc. No
real volume difference, but one is less irritating.
Tracy is using a Spintech brand stainless muffler which
seems to be surviving well & also seems to tame the exhaust
pulses pretty well. I walked out to the ramp hoping to hear
what it sounded like on takeoff. A T-6 had just landed & was
taxiing on the parallel taxiway as Tracy took off. With the
T-6 idling & the RV at full throttle, I couldn't hear the
rotary RV at all on takeoff.
Both seem to be surviving well (earlier stuff didn't) & they
both deal with the heat by hanging them under the belly of
the plane, outside of the cowl. While neither are very
pretty at the moment, they are works-in-progress & probably
look no worse than most prototyping projects from
manufacturers.
The nice thing about these engines is that the core is
almost completely bulletproof when looking at catastrophic
failure modes. Even a complete loss of coolant (this has
happened to a couple of guys) seems to result in only an
engine replacement at about the same cost as 3 Lyc cylinders
after you fly to a convenient airport & land.
Tracy says that his fuel consumption closely tracks a 180hp
Lyc on a similar airframe at similar speeds.
The biggest downside is the extra work because there is no
cookie-cutter installation with these engines.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting top of dashboard |
You can search the RV-List archives under "Last Flight Report". You'll find
a recent post that has some links plus the original postings from last year.
Greg
>
> Greg,
>
> You can't leave us hanging... sounds like a good story.
> What's the rest of
> it? How did it happen? Some of us are new to the list and
> have not heard the
> whole story.
>
> Thanks
> Dave C, Sacramento
> -7 tail done, waiting for wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | EFIS/Lite update |
Here is an update concerning the installation of a Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS/Lite in my RV-6 for those of you who have been asking me
about the progress of this project.
At this moment there is a Lite installed in 399SB in a test fixture hung
beneath the panel. The reason for this arrangement is due to the great
deal of hacking that will be required for me to install the Lite in the
very confined space available in my panel. I want to work out any kinks
in the unit and gain confidence in its capabilities before committing
atrocities to the panel. ;-)
How is the testing going so far? I think quite well for a technology
that is still very much a work in progress. Getting the instrument has
been an exercise in patience but the delays were not totally unexpected
due to the fact that there are no similar units on the market at this
price point. Greg Richter is on the cutting edge of bringing true
inertial platforms to the experimental market at prices that mortals can
afford.
One aspect of the Blue Mtn experience that has been pleasant is Greg's
willingness to incorporate suggestions for enhancing the display in the
Lite. I have made several "observations", and it seems nearly all of
them have resulted in software enhancements, some of which were
rewritten as I waited in the shop! I am sure he will not accommodate
every suggestions made, but there is no doubt the product is improving
on a nearly daily basis.
I have flown the instrument sufficiently to determine that this is
probably going to be a watershed technology once the kinks are ironed
out. Watching the attitude indicator follow the plane and realizing
there are NO moving parts in the box is truly mindboggling!
I am going to hold off on making public judgment of the various
functions of the unit until I have had enough time for me to fly the
system in its entirety, for Greg to add whatever adjustments we find
useful, and for me to give a fair representation of what I find. A major
issue yet to be resolved is the actual installation of the unit in a
tilted and confined panel, but there are ideas in the works that
hopefully will allow the EFIS/Lite to be utilized in nearly any
aircraft, and all RVs in particular.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Folks,
Greg Young wrote:
"I WILL be wearing Nomex and a helmet..."
Good idea. I wear a military-style nomex flight suit when flying for fun.
Having had the "flaming airplane experience," I can tell you that nomex is
money well spent.
I am not in the protective clothing/equipment business, but I would like to
see us (sport aviation types) consider making this our own standard
equipment. Most of us didn't wear helmets when riding bikes as youngsters.
Now we insist on them for ourselves as well as our kids. A change in
attitude is all it takes.
While helmets and nomex suits aren't cheap, if you watch for sales you can
save a few $$. I just ordered a suit from the closeout section of the
Flightsuits web site (www.flightsuits.com) for $99. There are several other
suppliers as well. If you want custom fit, etc., figure on $200 plus.
If you are ever exposed to flame, you'll be glad you aren't wearing one of
those nylon flight jackets. Mine melted. Fortunately, I had a nomex flight
suit on underneath it. Needless to say, I'm a nomex fan now.
Note - this stuff is not heat proof. In other words, if you're wearing
nomex gloves and stick your hand into a flame, you're going to get burned.
The nomex will not ignite, though, so when you pull your hand out of the
fire, it won't continue to burn. This can make a difference in the severity
of injury.
I'm not an expert in this field - perhaps there are some listers out there
with experience/training in crash/fire/rescue who would be willing to
comment for the benefit of the group.
For what it's worth. Fly safely.
Tim - Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | 10 Hr Report & Lean Carb (long) |
Hi George
My name is David Powell based in England
At present doing test flying like yourself (G-ODEE)
My Engine, Carb and Prop are the same as yours
I to have a lean running engine and have been given so much conflicting
information on what carb I should be using
I am very interested in the results you obtained by drilling the carb
appreciate it if you could let me know
David Powell
----------------------------------------------
Hi Dave
My engine is much better since I drilled the carb jet from #42 to #38 but
that is still not enough.
As I mentioned in my 10 hour report the engine was previously running on the
lean side of peak temperature, any leaning with the mixture control and the
cylinder head temperature immediately dropped.
Since drilling the carb jet to #38 I think that the engine is now running
just on the rich side of peak temperature. Leaning with mixture control at
10,000 feet now gives me a 5 degree F increase in head temperature before
temperature peaks and starts to lean drop. Cylinder temperatures in climb &
cruise are now 5 - 10 degrees cooler.
Next week I will remove the carb and open the jet up some more, think I will
try a #37 drill bit but am tempted to jump to a #36.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
(I will also post this message to RV-list for others who are interested)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: KostaLewis [mailto:mikel(at)dimensional.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: nomex
>>"I WILL be wearing Nomex and a helmet..."
>Good idea. I wear a military-style nomex flight suit when flying for
fun.
>I am not in the protective clothing/equipment business, but I would
like to
>see us (sport aviation types) consider making this our own standard
>equipment.
I agree here and have agreed before. Suzie Q has not flown without me
wearing my Nomex suit and helmet. Overkill? Perhaps. My coconut would be
just too close to the pavement if we decide to scrape along it upside
down. I am so used to wearing the gear, I would feel pretty naked
without it.
I have not, thank the stars, had the flaming airplane experience but
have talked to several that have, one in an RV-4. Found him standing in
the doughnut line at OSH. Didn't like the scars on his arms. He had
plenty to say about Nomex.
Check the archives about this; it's been discussed. Most folks are OK
not wearing protective gear. Fine with me. I'll be wearing mine, and not
to look like Joe Cool. My wife is thankful for me trying to keep me
looking the way I do.
Helmet: Custom fit from Flight Suits, Ltd. Worth every penny. Nomex
flight suit: friends in or out of the Air Force, wanting to get rid of
their "bags". Nomex jacket: Flight Suits, Ltd. Do NOT wear Nylon while
flying. Or, if you do, take one of your old ones and set a match to it
and see what happens. Then go buy a Nomex. Nylon is OK to wear to the
movies or shopping. Gloves: deer hide. Too hot in the summer? Naa. I
wear shorts and T-shirt underneath. And have the vents wide open.
IMHO
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
I am relaying some information sent to me from someone who linked to my
website from the Van's link page. This is the first I have heard of this
and have not been able to document it yet from my e-mail to Van's support.
I am not listing the senders name, just relaying the information sent too
me. Anybody know what is going on???
>>>I just thought I would let you know that I called Van's yesterday to
>>>verify what I had been hearing about the rudder on the RV-7. They
>>>explained the spin testing on the RV-6 outfitted to reflect the RV-7 and
>>>that it looked OK. When they did the spin tests on the actual production
>>>plane they were not satisfied with the results. They tested again using
>>>the rudder off the RV-9 and now they like it. So, Van will be sending a
>>>letter out giving us the option of switching over to the RV-9 rudder. The
>>>tech I talked to said I should definitely hold off on building the
>>>rudder.<<<
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp, including rudder completed, wings delivery 6/14
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>>"I WILL be wearing Nomex and a helmet..."
>Good idea. I wear a military-style nomex flight suit when flying for
fun.
>I am not in the protective clothing/equipment business, but I would
like to
>see us (sport aviation types) consider making this our own standard
>equipment.
I agree here and have agreed before. Suzie Q has not flown without me
wearing my Nomex suit and helmet. Overkill? Perhaps. My coconut would be
just too close to the pavement if we decide to scrape along it upside
down. I am so used to wearing the gear, I would feel pretty naked
without it.
I have not, thank the stars, had the flaming airplane experience but
have talked to several that have, one in an RV-4. Found him standing in
the doughnut line at OSH. Didn't like the scars on his arms. He had
plenty to say about Nomex.
Check the archives about this; it's been discussed. Most folks are OK
not wearing protective gear. Fine with me. I'll be wearing mine, and not
to look like Joe Cool. My wife is thankful for me trying to keep me
looking the way I do.
Helmet: Custom fit from Flight Suits, Ltd. Worth every penny. Nomex
flight suit: friends in or out of the Air Force, wanting to get rid of
their "bags". Nomex jacket: Flight Suits, Ltd. Do NOT wear Nylon while
flying. Or, if you do, take one of your old ones and set a match to it
and see what happens. Then go buy a Nomex. Nylon is OK to wear to the
movies or shopping. Gloves: deer hide. Too hot in the summer? Naa. I
wear shorts and T-shirt underneath. And have the vents wide open.
IMHO
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich spinner for metal prop |
Hello everyone,
I'm upgrading to the Sensenich 70CM7S9 metal propeller. I see that Sensenich
lists on their web site a complete spinner assembly for that prop. The rear
bulkhead is 13 inches. Has anyone out there is RV-land used this spinner?
What did you think of it?
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Sensenich spinner for metal prop |
I was surprised at the spinner when I got it. It was very well built and
plug and play.. I didn't have to touch a thing except paint and swapping the
cad plated stuff for stainless. I'd buy for every bird I build..
Steven DiNieri
Rv-6a N221RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich spinner for metal prop
Hello everyone,
I'm upgrading to the Sensenich 70CM7S9 metal propeller. I see that Sensenich
lists on their web site a complete spinner assembly for that prop. The rear
bulkhead is 13 inches. Has anyone out there is RV-land used this spinner?
What did you think of it?
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DavidAWilks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 06/08/02 |
I would look on some of the Sports Car Club of America websites for people who
are selling used racing helmets. The SA90 (Special Applications 1990) rating
is now expired for professional racing. These helmets if kept in good condition
are more than adequate for any use and ironically much safer than the military
style helmets.
I race a Formula1 Tunnel hull boat and I use a Bell SA01 open faced helmet with
a flight oxygen mask over the military helmet with the oxygen mask. I want to
be sure I have the latest in "bead-all" liners with kevlar. Most of the military
helmets are minimums for safety and are just a low bid winner for protection.
I do not think they ever took into consideration what a steel rollcage
would do to a helmet as Simpson and Bell have. Accept no others, these are the
industry standard in safety.
David Wilks
http://www.davidawilks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James & Shalise Cash" <jcash(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-7 rudder design? |
Hi everybody,
Is it true that the RV-7 rudder has been redesigned since it's original
release? I heard something about the counterbalance being "taller." I
know the design has changed from the RV-6, and the stabilizer is taller.
Has anything changed in the RV-7 tail? I'm looking at a tail kit that
was produced in 2001. It is an RV-6 tail, with an RV-7 "conversion"
kit. Just wanting to know if there have been any upgrades.
Thanks,
Jimmy Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7/9 Rudder |
According to the Second Issue, 2002 RVator the spin tests performed on the
RV-7 demonstrator meet FAA requirements for standard category aircraft but
not for aerobatic category :-( THe article ended saying that they were
going to try a larger rudder. Guess the RV-9 rudder is larger than the
RV-7 rudder.
Wonder what Van's position is going to be on replacement rudders? THe
aerobatic capabilities was the main reason I chose the RV-7 over the RV-9.
Steve
On Sat, 8 Jun 2002, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> I am relaying some information sent to me from someone who linked to my
> website from the Van's link page. This is the first I have heard of this
> and have not been able to document it yet from my e-mail to Van's support.
>
> I am not listing the senders name, just relaying the information sent too
> me. Anybody know what is going on???
>
> >>>I just thought I would let you know that I called Van's yesterday to
> >>>verify what I had been hearing about the rudder on the RV-7. They
> >>>explained the spin testing on the RV-6 outfitted to reflect the RV-7 and
> >>>that it looked OK. When they did the spin tests on the actual production
> >>>plane they were not satisfied with the results. They tested again using
> >>>the rudder off the RV-9 and now they like it. So, Van will be sending a
> >>>letter out giving us the option of switching over to the RV-9 rudder. The
> >>>tech I talked to said I should definitely hold off on building the
> >>>rudder.<<<
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> 7 emp, including rudder completed, wings delivery 6/14
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
N14SE reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7/9 Rudder |
What kind of aerobatics do you want to do? If you want to do competition type
aerobatics built a Pitts, if you just want to play it well do just
about anything you want it to do the way it is. Personaly I think the large
rudders are ugly.
Jerry
Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
>
> According to the Second Issue, 2002 RVator the spin tests performed on the
> RV-7 demonstrator meet FAA requirements for standard category aircraft but
> not for aerobatic category :-( THe article ended saying that they were
> going to try a larger rudder. Guess the RV-9 rudder is larger than the
> RV-7 rudder.
>
> Wonder what Van's position is going to be on replacement rudders? THe
> aerobatic capabilities was the main reason I chose the RV-7 over the RV-9.
>
> Steve
>
> On Sat, 8 Jun 2002, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> >
> > I am relaying some information sent to me from someone who linked to my
> > website from the Van's link page. This is the first I have heard of this
> > and have not been able to document it yet from my e-mail to Van's support.
> >
> > I am not listing the senders name, just relaying the information sent too
> > me. Anybody know what is going on???
> >
> > >>>I just thought I would let you know that I called Van's yesterday to
> > >>>verify what I had been hearing about the rudder on the RV-7. They
> > >>>explained the spin testing on the RV-6 outfitted to reflect the RV-7 and
> > >>>that it looked OK. When they did the spin tests on the actual production
> > >>>plane they were not satisfied with the results. They tested again using
> > >>>the rudder off the RV-9 and now they like it. So, Van will be sending a
> > >>>letter out giving us the option of switching over to the RV-9 rudder. The
> > >>>tech I talked to said I should definitely hold off on building the
> > >>>rudder.<<<
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > 7 emp, including rudder completed, wings delivery 6/14
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> >
> >
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - just a whole bunch of aluminum, in various states of attachment,
> filling up my half of the garage. Some of it looks like it might belong
> on the back end of an airplane. The rest looks like it might, some day,
> help hold it up in the air.... but what do I know.
> N14SE reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A engine mount |
Fellow RV'ers,
I didn't want to get into anything difficult today, so I thought I'd
mount the engine mount. Well, as it turns out it's not that easy. I
got the four corner bolts in OK after having to cut the bottom air
exhaust, but what do I do with the two inboard bottom holes? They come
out beneath the floor and above the bottom skin. This area is riveted,
pro sealed and totally inaccessible. This is a QB by the way. Anyone
been through this? Thanks in advance!
Wayne
RV-8A QB
#80737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A engine mount |
Wayne,
There should be two holes (about the size of a half dollar) the bolts go in from
the engine side for these two. You will have enough room to get a wrench in
there.
Good Building,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly airport)
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <COMMANDO@COX-INTERNET.COM>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A engine mount
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 12:44:03 -0500
-- RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <COMMANDO@COX-INTERNET.COM>
Fellow RV'ers,
I didn't want to get into anything difficult today, so I thought I'd
mount the engine mount. Well, as it turns out it's not that easy. I
got the four corner bolts in OK after having to cut the bottom air
exhaust, but what do I do with the two inboard bottom holes? They come
out beneath the floor and above the bottom skin. This area is riveted,
pro sealed and totally inaccessible. This is a QB by the way. Anyone
been through this? Thanks in advance!
Wayne
RV-8A QB
#80737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank access covers |
The general consensus (in the archives) for sealing fuel tank access covers
is to use only proseal (without cork gasket), then screw covers on.
Questions: (1) What keeps fuel from seeping out around the screws or must I
also cover the screws and nutplates with proseal? If so, will I later be
able to remove the screws? (2) How are all of you measuring small amounts of
proseal by weight as per instructions of 10 to 1 by weight?
Pete Hunt
RV-6 216PH (reserved)
Starting instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Low fuel indicators and canopy alternatives |
Listers--Check out www.aircraftextras.com. Very neat optical fuel sensor has
been added, along with optically perfect canopies which can be ordered either
clear or tinted. We're putting optical low fuel sensors in our RV-6, as well
as tip-up slider modification. LeRoy Johnston, Ohio, wings almost done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A engine mount |
Wayne,
I mounted my QB engine mount about a month ago. You should have an access hole
(for each bolt) on the bottom of the fuse right where the inboard bottom bolts
would go. The access holes are about 3/4-1" diameter. You will have a little
bit a playing around when installing the washers and nuts with needle-nose pliers
through the access holes. Good Luck!
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit/Canopy
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne R. Couture [mailto:commando@cox-internet.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A engine mount
Fellow RV'ers,
I didn't want to get into anything difficult today, so I thought I'd
mount the engine mount. Well, as it turns out it's not that easy. I
got the four corner bolts in OK after having to cut the bottom air
exhaust, but what do I do with the two inboard bottom holes? They come
out beneath the floor and above the bottom skin. This area is riveted,
pro sealed and totally inaccessible. This is a QB by the way. Anyone
been through this? Thanks in advance!
Wayne
RV-8A QB
#80737
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank access covers |
Pete,
I went the over-kill method and used the cork gasket with proseal. I know that
the gasket will be sacrificed if I need to remove the plate. It should work just
fine without the gasket provided you use proseal. For the screws, apply proseal
around the threads before you screw them in. I don't know how easy it will
be removing them later, but you don't have any choice. You shouldn't need to
cover the plate nuts since they are completely covered by the plate which will
have proseal on it. As far as mixing: I bought a pretty cool electronic postal
scale at Wal-Mart for $20. You can tare any container and switch to grams for
finer resolution - it works great and highly recommended. I mixed my small
batches in old yogurt containers. Good luck!
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit/Canopy
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com [mailto:PeterHunt1(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank access covers
The general consensus (in the archives) for sealing fuel tank access covers
is to use only proseal (without cork gasket), then screw covers on.
Questions: (1) What keeps fuel from seeping out around the screws or must I
also cover the screws and nutplates with proseal? If so, will I later be
able to remove the screws? (2) How are all of you measuring small amounts of
proseal by weight as per instructions of 10 to 1 by weight?
Pete Hunt
RV-6 216PH (reserved)
Starting instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank access covers |
Don't forget to pressure check your tanks after the proseal sets up. I found
a couple of leaking screws. Check the archives for more info on pressure
checking tanks.
Cash Copeland
> Pete,
> I went the over-kill method and used the cork gasket with proseal. I know
> that the gasket will be sacrificed if I need to remove the plate. It should
> work just fine without the gasket provided you use proseal. For the screws,
> apply proseal around the threads before you screw them in. I don't know how
> easy it will be removing them later, but you don't have any choice. You
> shouldn't need to cover the plate nuts since they are completely covered by
> the plate which will have proseal on it. As far as mixing: I bought a
> pretty cool electronic postal scale at Wal-Mart for $20. You can tare any
> container and switch to grams for finer resolution - it works great and
> highly recommended. I mixed my small batches in old yogurt containers. Good
> luck!
>
> Todd Wenzel
> Delafield, WI
> RV-8AQB - Finish Kit/Canopy
> mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com [mailto:PeterHunt1(at)aol.com]
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank access covers
>
>
>
> The general consensus (in the archives) for sealing fuel tank access covers
>
> is to use only proseal (without cork gasket), then screw covers on.
> Questions: (1) What keeps fuel from seeping out around the screws or must
> I
> also cover the screws and nutplates with proseal? If so, will I later be
> able to remove the screws? (2) How are all of you measuring small amounts
> of
> proseal by weight as per instructions of 10 to 1 by weight?
>
> Pete Hunt
> RV-6 216PH (reserved)
> Starting instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich spinner for metal prop |
I have used the Sensenich spinner and it is extremely well made however it
is heavy. In my experience they have always been great to deal with. And I
believe they have a money back guarantee.
John Furey
2nd RV6A O-320 Sensenich 28hrs----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich spinner for metal prop
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm upgrading to the Sensenich 70CM7S9 metal propeller. I see that
Sensenich
> lists on their web site a complete spinner assembly for that prop. The
rear
> bulkhead is 13 inches. Has anyone out there is RV-land used this spinner?
> What did you think of it?
>
> Stephen Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A N227RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank access covers |
Yeah, and check the fuel senders too !!
found that with proseal on the screws I lost continuety, grounding that
is, for the fuel sender. Couldn't figure out why I had correct
resistance between the sender pick up and the sender body but nothing
between the sender pick-up and the airframe... ran a separate grounding
wire from the sender body to the wing to ensure proper grounding.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank access covers |
10 to 1 scale on a budget: I used a paint stirring stick (6" long or so)
and drilled holes spaced at 0, .5, and 5" spacing. I hung a dixie cup
from stations 0 and 5", and used the .5" station for the pivot point
(suspended from a piece of safety wire). Then balance the dixie cups
with washers, pennys, whatever, until the cups balance. Then add
activator to station 5" and adhesive to station 0 in quantities that
bring the cups pack to level. 10 to 1 by weight on a budget.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A engine mount |
There should be access holes in the bottom to put the nuts on and tighten.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Hanger # 23 at INT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-11 Motorglider |
Hey guys,
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this interesting paragraph on page 17 of
the June 2002 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation, (listing the discussions at the
aviation forum on this year's Oshkosh):
"Dick VanGrunsven will discuss the four-place RV-10 and the RV-11
motorglider, new airplanes in development at Van's Aircraft."
I thought I was paying pretty good attention but I hadn't heard a word about
the RV-11.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-11 Motorglider |
I was expecting a motorglider or at least an aluminum sailplane, based on
Vans's extensive discussion, in the RVator, of the design challenges
involved in gliders, specifically metal ones, which are rare today except as
trainers.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm surprised no one has mentioned this interesting paragraph on page 17
of
> the June 2002 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation, (listing the discussions at
the
> aviation forum on this year's Oshkosh):
>
> "Dick VanGrunsven will discuss the four-place RV-10 and the RV-11
> motorglider, new airplanes in development at Van's Aircraft."
>
> I thought I was paying pretty good attention but I hadn't heard a word
about
> the RV-11.
>
> Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank access covers |
I just mixed the proseal to obtain the "battleship gray" I kept seeing
referenced in the archives. I didn't measure by wieght or vol. Seems
to have worked ok. It passed the "spray with soapy water, look for
bubbles" test.
On the inspection covers, I used the cork gasket, slathered with fuel
lube. Numerous people told me I was destined for a leaky failure. One
guy said it should work fine -- that's the way he did it on the
helicopters he maintained. I've considered changing it, but haven't
yet......
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8, canopy soon.....
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> 10 to 1 scale on a budget: I used a paint stirring stick (6"
> long or so)
> and drilled holes spaced at 0, .5, and 5" spacing. I hung a
> dixie cup
> from stations 0 and 5", and used the .5" station for the pivot point
> (suspended from a piece of safety wire). Then balance the dixie cups
> with washers, pennys, whatever, until the cups balance. Then add
> activator to station 5" and adhesive to station 0 in quantities that
> bring the cups pack to level. 10 to 1 by weight on a budget.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-11 Motorglider |
I saw the plane in the prototype shop several years ago, but no said much
about it, so I thought perhaps it was for someone else. It had a 4 cylinder
4 cycle tractor style engine(Jabiru I think). I didn't see the prop so
don't know if it was a retractable style. The fuse was all metal of course.
There is an Irv Prue sailplane in Tehachapi that is the most beatutiful
sheet metal work I have ever seen, even some 30 years later.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-11 Motorglider
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm surprised no one has mentioned this interesting paragraph on page 17
of
> the June 2002 issue of EAA's Sport Aviation, (listing the discussions at
the
> aviation forum on this year's Oshkosh):
>
> "Dick VanGrunsven will discuss the four-place RV-10 and the RV-11
> motorglider, new airplanes in development at Van's Aircraft."
>
> I thought I was paying pretty good attention but I hadn't heard a word
about
> the RV-11.
>
> Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shattered Sliding Canopy |
08:10:27 AM
Hate to be morbid, but how did it happen? I've heard of lots of cracks
forming, but shattered? Sorry to hear of your loss, that sucks plenty. Ya
might want to keep the windscreen incase you "Laird" into a bird some day.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Hegler" <MaxHegler(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shattered Sliding Canopy |
You might also want to check with these folks...their canopy appears to cost
less and is guaranteed not to break and will be replaced free if it does:
http://www.aircraftextras.com
If you contact them, let us know how it works out...
Max
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shattered Sliding Canopy
>
>
> Hate to be morbid, but how did it happen? I've heard of lots of cracks
> forming, but shattered? Sorry to hear of your loss, that sucks plenty. Ya
> might want to keep the windscreen incase you "Laird" into a bird some day.
>
> Eric
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich spinner for metal prop |
I used the Sensenich spinner assembly with their prop on my RV-4,
the whole assembly just bolts on, much faster than trimming, cutting
and fabricating the fiberglass spinner.
It is spun alum. with floating nutplates, ypu cam polish or paint it.
Wayne
RV-4 flying.
Lake Tahoe Calif.
I'm upgrading to the Sensenich 70CM7S9 metal propeller. I see that Sensenich
lists on their web site a complete spinner assembly for that prop. The rear
bulkhead is 13 inches. Has anyone out there is RV-land used this spinner?
What did you think of it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 10 Hr Report & Lean Carb (long) |
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> My engine is much better since I drilled the carb jet from #42 to #38 but
> that is still not enough.
>
> As I mentioned in my 10 hour report the engine was previously running on
> the
> lean side of peak temperature, any leaning with the mixture control and the
> cylinder head temperature immediately dropped.
>
> Since drilling the carb jet to #38 I think that the engine is now running
> just on the rich side of peak temperature. Leaning with mixture control at
> 10,000 feet now gives me a 5 degree F increase in head temperature before
> temperature peaks and starts to lean drop. Cylinder temperatures in climb &
> cruise are now 5 - 10 degrees cooler.
>
> Next week I will remove the carb and open the jet up some more, think I
> will
> try a #37 drill bit but am tempted to jump to a #36.
>
> George McNutt
>
George-
I would urge you to ignore (relatively) the CHT's and focus on EGT for
leaning and jetting purposes. There is much on this in the archives (try my
screen name and a few key words like carb, jet, drill for in interesting read
on my personal experience. I overdid it and ended up with a rich carb.) My
problems in this regard were solved by getting the richer carb (again, the
Marvel part no. will be in the archives) which I bought from a builder with a
stock Lycoming 160 hp from Vans who decided to go to fuel injection before
his first flight, so I got a brand new carb at an excellent price.
I worry you may hurt yourself or your engine if you try to jet based on
cylinder head temps. As far as I know, only exhaust gas temps are suitable
for this purpose.
Be safe-
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | nomex flight suits and seat belts |
Another source for fire resistant stuff is Simpson Racing
www.simpsonraceproducts.com
You can get anything imaginable... helmets, gloves, boots, socks and even
custom made nomex suits... a bit pricey, but nice and much cheaper than skin
grafts.
I just bought a set of 5 point seat belts for the Rocket from them. Cost
about $100.
Don't get the Latch F/X system seat belts as the buckle is too big for
aircraft use (IMHO). Get the Standard Latch and Link and you'll be fine.
It's just like the stuff we're use to. They also make a cam lock seat
belt... it looks OK but is twice the price.
FWIW, I went to the army surplus and bought a nomex flight suit and nomex
gloves. Chicks dig the flight suits... even my wife! LOL
Vince
F-1H Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Century III manual Needed |
Anybody have an installation manaul for a Century III AP I can get a copy
of?
I am trying to do some troubleshooting and need some wiring diagrams.
Thanks.
Richard Bibb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shattered Sliding Canopy |
You have plenty of company, including myself. When I did it I called the
company that makes the windshield and explained the problem. The person I
spoke with said he was helping his friend that weekend and did the same
thing. He took mercy on me and found one that had a blemish on the part that
I did not need and saved me quite a bit. The billing still came through
Vans. May be worth a try ?
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
rv8list , rv-list
| Subject: | Prop Swap Numbers... |
I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and would like
some input on the results...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's REAL smooth
at that RPM...
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A N8WV
http://vondane.com/rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna orientation |
I never saw anyone answer the question: Can an antenna splitter be used on
the ELT to feed 2 or more antennae?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
>
> Dear electronically inclined Listers!
> I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather (let's
> say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics.
> Here my question:
> Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of
> signal-splitter?
> Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the
> tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario?
> (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!)
> Any input would be appreciated.
> Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
Hello Listers,
I have been looking for the double grommets that go in the baffle for the
upper spark plug wires. I don't know what they are even called, or where to
get them. Can someone help with a source?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Just about baffled out
N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
I couldn't connect to the archives right now so I can't find the story,
but a lister told us about his experience running high RPM.
The part I remember is that the pilot had a mechanic passenger with him
who commented, just before the castastrophic engine failure, about how
smooth it was running.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
>I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
>would like some input on the results...
>
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>
>What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's REAL
>smooth at that RPM...
>
>Thanks...
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A N8WV
>http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
In a message dated 6/10/02 5:08:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tim(at)bryantechnology.com writes:
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
Tim,
You can get them through Aircraft Spruce page 239 for $3.95. However, I have
two brand new, never opened that I'm not going to use. I'll sell for half
price plus $1.00 shipping.
Rick McBride
rickrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris mcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
While on holidays over there from Aus we did some flying at Aurora near
Denver. There is a shop there that has aircraft parts and they got some for
us . Sorry have not got the phone no but the bloke that runs the shop runs
the field so just look them up.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have been looking for the double grommets that go in the baffle for the
> upper spark plug wires. I don't know what they are even called, or where
to
> get them. Can someone help with a source?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Just about baffled out
> N616TB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>I couldn't connect to the archives right now so I can't find the story,
>but a lister told us about his experience running high RPM.
>
>The part I remember is that the pilot had a mechanic passenger with him
>who commented, just before the castastrophic engine failure, about how
>smooth it was running.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
I believe it was Tom Martin when flying his RV4.
He did not replace some of the valve springs when the engine was rebuilt
and they are not that strong to begin with. I believe the valves floated,
and so did he, safely into his own bean field.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
I would like to buy a working Terra TX 760D as a back-up while
my existing one is repaired. If you have one gathering dust,
give me a call or e-mail.
e-mail: billy.wilson(at)lmco.com
Home: 817-732-3879
Work: 972-603-9719
Cell: 817-808-9580
Billy Wilson
Senior Engineering Specialist
Lockheed Martin Missiles and Fire Control - Dallas
Work: 972-603-9719
Fax: 972-603-9275
email: billy.wilson(at)lmco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and second
you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over the original
prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than the original prop,
you're still going to be burning more fuel than the original prop. With the
wheel pants installed the climb is the same with both props so this fact
begs the question....why would you want to turn the higher rpm's and higher
fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the second
prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the Warnke
and Sterba as having the same pitch.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Building Fuselage ..... Finally
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "rv-list"
Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
would like some input on the results...
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>
> What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's REAL
smooth at that RPM...
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
I can't get into the archives either, but I saved some of the
messages from that thread. He did say the engine was running real
smooth before the valve failed. He said he would never exceed
redline again.
Whenever the archives come back up, search for Tom Martin and you'll
find the goods. The interesting parts I saved explain how helicopter
versions of our engines use a higher redline, but the cams are
different. Apparently the different cam profile is easier on the
valves.
I certainly wouldn't deliberately exceed redline, but its all a
question of your risk tolerance.
Kevin
>
>I couldn't connect to the archives right now so I can't find the story,
>but a lister told us about his experience running high RPM.
>
>The part I remember is that the pilot had a mechanic passenger with him
>who commented, just before the castastrophic engine failure, about how
>smooth it was running.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
>>
>>
>>I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
>>would like some input on the results...
>>
>>http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>>
>>What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's REAL
>>smooth at that RPM...
>>
>>Thanks...
>>
>>
>>-Bill VonDane
>>RV-8A N8WV
>>http://vondane.com/rv8a
> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
>
>In a message dated 6/10/02 5:08:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>tim(at)bryantechnology.com writes:
>
>
>> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>Tim,
>
>You can get them through Aircraft Spruce page 239 for $3.95. However, I have
>two brand new, never opened that I'm not going to use. I'll sell for half
>price plus $1.00 shipping.
>
>Rick McBride
>rickrv6(at)aol.com
>
Beware the ones sold by Spruce. I bought one, listed as for 5 mm
wires. It had the correct part number on it, but it had 7.5 mm
holes. And they screwed up the shipping which cost me an extra $40.
ACS is now my supplier of last resort.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
This would be Kevin Kennelly, KenAero, 303-361-9630
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of chris mcgough
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles
While on holidays over there from Aus we did some flying at Aurora near
Denver. There is a shop there that has aircraft parts and they got some for
us . Sorry have not got the phone no but the bloke that runs the shop runs
the field so just look them up.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have been looking for the double grommets that go in the baffle for the
> upper spark plug wires. I don't know what they are even called, or where
to
> get them. Can someone help with a source?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Just about baffled out
> N616TB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 06/09/02 |
Hello Listers,
l am currently flying an RV-4 with a sensenich wood prop and a Mark
Landoll Harmonic Balancer installed with it. l am wondering if any of you
have had any experience with being able to have this set up balanced and what
were the results? My mechanic says that he can,t see any reason why his
balance machine would not work with this setup, but also added that he has
never done a balance job on this kind of setup......... Any comments based
on experience?..... Thanks in advance guys........... George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Swap Numbers... |
I may be off on the climb rate of the Warnke... I need to do some more
testing... The plane seems to accelerate mush faster and is definitely
off the ground sooner, so it SHOULD be climbing better...
The Warnke and Sterba both have the same dimensions: 68x72
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and
second you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over the
original prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than the
original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than the
original prop. With the wheel pants installed the climb is the same
with both props so this fact begs the question....why would you want to
turn the higher rpm's and higher fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the second
prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the
Warnke and Sterba as having the same pitch.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Building Fuselage ..... Finally
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "rv-list"
Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
would like some input on the results...
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>
> What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's
> REAL
smooth at that RPM...
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Swap Numbers... |
I question your statement; "Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower
than the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than
the original prop"...
Would it not be true that if I were running the engine at full throttle;
21.9" MAP @ 2530 RPM I would burn more fuel that if I were running the
engine at 20.9" MAP @ 2700 RPM? Doesn't throttle position and manifold
pressure equate to fuel burn more that RPM?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8wv(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
I may be off on the climb rate of the Warnke... I need to do some more
testing... The plane seems to accelerate mush faster and is definitely
off the ground sooner, so it SHOULD be climbing better...
The Warnke and Sterba both have the same dimensions: 68x72
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and
second you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over the
original prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than the
original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than the
original prop. With the wheel pants installed the climb is the same
with both props so this fact begs the question....why would you want to
turn the higher rpm's and higher fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the second
prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the
Warnke and Sterba as having the same pitch.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Building Fuselage ..... Finally
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
; "rv-list"
Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
would like some input on the results...
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>
> What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's
> REAL
smooth at that RPM...
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A N8WV
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
In a message dated 6/10/02 7:39:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
> Beware the ones sold by Spruce. I bought one, listed as for 5 mm
> wires. It had the correct part number on it, but it had 7.5 mm
> holes. And they screwed up the shipping which cost me an extra $40.
> ACS is now my supplier of last resort.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
>
Bummer on the shipping. I checked the holes in mine, and you're right,
they're 7.5mm. According to their catalog all they sell is 5mm. However, I
checked my old harness, which I'm not using, and the wires are 7mm. It
appears you can get lightweight later harnesses which are 5mm or the older
style which are 7mm. I learned something new today.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 06/09/02 |
If you have the Harmonic Balancer and not just the flywheel; additional
balancing probably won't help. Contact Mark Landoll. The harmonic Balancer
works at all rpms not just the normal cruise number.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 06/09/02
Hello Listers,
l am currently flying an RV-4 with a sensenich wood prop and a Mark
Landoll Harmonic Balancer installed with it. l am wondering if any of you
have had any experience with being able to have this set up balanced and
what
were the results? My mechanic says that he can,t see any reason why his
balance machine would not work with this setup, but also added that he has
never done a balance job on this kind of setup......... Any comments based
on experience?..... Thanks in advance guys........... George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Swap Numbers... |
The Lycoming power charts should, in theory, allow you to figure out
the power produced at each of these conditions. In practice, they
are a PITA to use. However, the relationship between these power
settings should be about the same for the O-360 as it is for the
O-320, given the large similarity between the two engines. Looking
at the spreadsheet I wrote to emulate the power charts for the O-360,
I see the following powers:
8,000 ft, std temperature, 21.9 MAP, 2530 rpm = 139 hp
8,000 ft, std temperature, 20.9 MAP, 2700 rpm = 136 hp
So, it is likely that the 2530 rpm case is still producing more power
on the O-320, and hence is burning more fuel.
As far as the climb rates go, don't rely too heavily on the VSI.
I've seen sigificant VSI errors. You will get a better number by
using the altimeter and a stop watch.
Kevin
>
>I question your statement; "Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower
>than the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than
>the original prop"...
>
>Would it not be true that if I were running the engine at full throttle;
>21.9" MAP @ 2530 RPM I would burn more fuel that if I were running the
>engine at 20.9" MAP @ 2700 RPM? Doesn't throttle position and manifold
>pressure equate to fuel burn more that RPM?
>
>-Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8wv(at)earthlink.net]
>To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
>I may be off on the climb rate of the Warnke... I need to do some more
>testing... The plane seems to accelerate mush faster and is definitely
>off the ground sooner, so it SHOULD be climbing better...
>
>The Warnke and Sterba both have the same dimensions: 68x72
>
>-Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
>Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
>constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and
>second you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over the
>original prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than the
>original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than the
>original prop. With the wheel pants installed the climb is the same
>with both props so this fact begs the question....why would you want to
>turn the higher rpm's and higher fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
>
>Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the second
>prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
>
>BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the
>Warnke and Sterba as having the same pitch.
>
>Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
>Georgetown, TX
>Building Fuselage ..... Finally
>RV6 N699BM Reserved
>1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
>To: "vansairforce" ; "rv8list"
>; "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
>>
>> I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
>would like some input on the results...
>>
>> http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
>>
>> What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's
>> REAL
>smooth at that RPM...
>>
>> Thanks...
>>
>>
>> -Bill VonDane
>> RV-8A N8WV
>> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>>
>>
>
>
>>>>>
>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
I don't think so. I'm not the expert here, but the mixture setting for 2500
rpm is going to be less than that of an engine turning 2700 rpm regardless
of throttle position. In this scenario the throttle is WFO in both cases.
Leaned to 50 deg rich/lean of peak (take your pick) it stands to reason that
the engine turning 2500 rpm is going to require less fuel. It would take a
fuel flow gauge to verify that though. Think of it like a constant speed
prop. If I have the throttle WFO and set the prop for 2700 rpm I'll burn
more fuel than if I set the prop at 2500 rpm. If Along the same line, if
I'm running my CS prop engine in cruise at 2700 rpm and back it down to 2500
rpm I'll have to readadjust my mixture (less fuel).
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I question your statement; "Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower
> than the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than
> the original prop"...
>
> Would it not be true that if I were running the engine at full throttle;
> 21.9" MAP @ 2530 RPM I would burn more fuel that if I were running the
> engine at 20.9" MAP @ 2700 RPM? Doesn't throttle position and manifold
> pressure equate to fuel burn more that RPM?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8wv(at)earthlink.net]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> I may be off on the climb rate of the Warnke... I need to do some more
> testing... The plane seems to accelerate mush faster and is definitely
> off the ground sooner, so it SHOULD be climbing better...
>
> The Warnke and Sterba both have the same dimensions: 68x72
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
> constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and
> second you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over the
> original prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than the
> original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than the
> original prop. With the wheel pants installed the climb is the same
> with both props so this fact begs the question....why would you want to
> turn the higher rpm's and higher fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
>
> Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the second
> prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
>
> BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the
> Warnke and Sterba as having the same pitch.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Georgetown, TX
> Building Fuselage ..... Finally
> RV6 N699BM Reserved
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
> To: "vansairforce" ; "rv8list"
> ; "rv-list"
> Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> >
> > I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend and
> would like some input on the results...
> >
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
> >
> > What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's
> > REAL
> smooth at that RPM...
> >
> > Thanks...
> >
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > RV-8A N8WV
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Swap Numbers... |
I'm not sure what you mean by WFO, but in the case of the 2700 RPM
example, the engine is throttled back to get the 2700... Full throttle
would produce 2800 RPM...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
I don't think so. I'm not the expert here, but the mixture setting for
2500 rpm is going to be less than that of an engine turning 2700 rpm
regardless of throttle position. In this scenario the throttle is WFO in
both cases. Leaned to 50 deg rich/lean of peak (take your pick) it
stands to reason that the engine turning 2500 rpm is going to require
less fuel. It would take a fuel flow gauge to verify that though.
Think of it like a constant speed prop. If I have the throttle WFO and
set the prop for 2700 rpm I'll burn more fuel than if I set the prop at
2500 rpm. If Along the same line, if I'm running my CS prop engine in
cruise at 2700 rpm and back it down to 2500 rpm I'll have to readadjust
my mixture (less fuel).
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I question your statement; "Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower
> than the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel
> than the original prop"...
>
> Would it not be true that if I were running the engine at full
> throttle; 21.9" MAP @ 2530 RPM I would burn more fuel that if I were
> running the engine at 20.9" MAP @ 2700 RPM? Doesn't throttle position
> and manifold pressure equate to fuel burn more that RPM?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8wv(at)earthlink.net]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> I may be off on the climb rate of the Warnke... I need to do some
> more testing... The plane seems to accelerate mush faster and is
> definitely off the ground sooner, so it SHOULD be climbing better...
>
> The Warnke and Sterba both have the same dimensions: 68x72
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> Sounds like that new prop is quite a climb prop. I'd stay away from a
> constant cruise of 2800 rpm. First, it's 100 rpm over redline and
> second you'll do nothing but burn more fuel for only 5 mph gain over
> the original prop. Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower than
> the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than the
> original prop. With the wheel pants installed the climb is the same
> with both props so this fact begs the question....why would you want
> to turn the higher rpm's and higher fuel burn for only 5 mph gain?
>
> Are you sure about the climb rates? With the higher rpm's of the
> second prop I would expect to see higher climb rates.
>
> BTW, the heading at the top of the columns is wrong. You've got the
> Warnke and Sterba as having the same pitch.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Georgetown, TX
> Building Fuselage ..... Finally
> RV6 N699BM Reserved
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
> To: "vansairforce" ; "rv8list"
> ; "rv-list"
> Subject: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
>
> >
> > I have posted some information on a prop swap I made this weekend
> > and
> would like some input on the results...
> >
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/flightdata/index.htm
> >
> > What is the consensus on running the Lycosour above 2700 RPM? It's
> > REAL
> smooth at that RPM...
> >
> > Thanks...
> >
> >
> > -Bill VonDane
> > RV-8A N8WV
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Shop |
Steve
They are not that close to Brampton, but I would direct you to Atlantic Aero
Engines in the industiral park near YHZ. Real good people to deal with and
I've never heard anything bad about them.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
Fredericton
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Shop
>
>
> Anybody know of an engine overhaul shop in or near Brampton, Ontario?
> Or a source (website) where I can search for one?
>
> Thank you
> Steve Hurlbut
> Kingston, Ont
> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Swap Numbers... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Swap Numbers...
>
> I question your statement; "Even at 2700 rpm redline, and 2 mph slower
> than the original prop, you're still going to be burning more fuel than
> the original prop"...
>
> Would it not be true that if I were running the engine at full throttle;
> 21.9" MAP @ 2530 RPM I would burn more fuel that if I were running the
> engine at 20.9" MAP @ 2700 RPM? Doesn't throttle position and manifold
> pressure equate to fuel burn more that RPM?
>
> -Bill
>
Its a bit complicated due to the interaction of throttle, manifold pressure
and rpm. At 2700 rpm the engine is capable of ingesting more cubic feet of
air per minute than at 2530 rpm at the same throttle setting. So no question
if both at same throttle setting, 2700 rpm produces more HP. Here are some
rough back of the envelope considerations. The higher rpm would produce
2530/2700 = (1-.937) = approx 6.3% more HP all other factors being equal.
Now if you run 21.9" MAP compared to 20.9" Map that 1" difference in
manifold pressure at the same rpm it would produce approx 1/29.92 = 3.3%
more HP all other factors being equal. So for the parameters you mention
its likely that the overall HP gain still goes to the 2700 rpm by a factor
of approx 3 %. FWIW
Ed Anderson
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety and operating costs |
A lot has already been posted on the list on engine handling and is in
the archives. As I have said before I am more interested in safety and
keeping the engine costs down than I am in performance.
Proper handling of the Lycomings (0320-0360) that we are using in our
RV's is very straight forward. The Lycoming manual states that they
should not be run continuously at more than 75% of rated power this is
in the area of 2400 RPM &24 inches of manifold pressure.
Experience has shown that limiting full throttle operation to one minute
unless safety is an issue and climbing at 75% and cruise at 65%
(2300-2400 & 21 inches), this coupled with proper leaning, the settings
I use are full rich to 3500 ft, maintaining 300-400 F on the rich side
of peak during the climb then peak -50 when stabilized in cruise.gives
the best service life.
Exceeding the red line RPM never becomes an issue if the governor is set
right in the case of a constant speed. A bit harder with a fixed pitch,
but if it is pitched right for your engine, like turning 2400 at 21-22
inches in cruise and the red line airspeed is observed it doesn't
require much throttle changing.
I have found flying at power settings higher than the ones mentioned is
all cost and very little gain. The difference in speed for example
between 75 % and 65% is in the order of 5-6 miles an hour. The RV does
aerobatics just fine at a 65% setting.
For those interested in a more detailed run down on engine handling got
to "The care and feeding of Lycoming engines" in the archives.
Eustace Bowhay- Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety and operating costs |
COST to gain the following years of experience yourself: EXPENSIVE!
Free Advice from an experienced RV-Pilot like Eustace: PRICELESS!!
Sincerely,
Konrad
> Subject: RV-List: Safety and operating costs
>
>
> A lot has already been posted on the list on engine handling and is in
> the archives. As I have said before I am more interested in safety and
> keeping the engine costs down than I am in performance.
>
> Proper handling of the Lycomings (0320-0360) that we are using in our
> RV's is very straight forward. The Lycoming manual states that they
> should not be run continuously at more than 75% of rated power this is
> in the area of 2400 RPM &24 inches of manifold pressure.
>
> Experience has shown that limiting full throttle operation to one minute
> unless safety is an issue and climbing at 75% and cruise at 65%
> (2300-2400 & 21 inches), this coupled with proper leaning, the settings
> I use are full rich to 3500 ft, maintaining 300-400 F on the rich side
> of peak during the climb then peak -50 when stabilized in cruise.gives
> the best service life.
>
> Exceeding the red line RPM never becomes an issue if the governor is set
> right in the case of a constant speed. A bit harder with a fixed pitch,
> but if it is pitched right for your engine, like turning 2400 at 21-22
> inches in cruise and the red line airspeed is observed it doesn't
> require much throttle changing.
>
> I have found flying at power settings higher than the ones mentioned is
> all cost and very little gain. The difference in speed for example
> between 75 % and 65% is in the order of 5-6 miles an hour. The RV does
> aerobatics just fine at a 65% setting.
>
> For those interested in a more detailed run down on engine handling got
> to "The care and feeding of Lycoming engines" in the archives.
>
> Eustace Bowhay- Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUNO" <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
Hello Listers
This message is directed to our canadians RV'ers.I'm planning
on buying a Garmin 295 GPS in a near future and I would like to know if
anyone knows of a good place (Price)where I could find such a unit.
I'm also looking for a place to buy new disk brakes for my RV-4
so if you guys know a good shop please feel free to let me know.
Thanks in advance..
Bruno Dionne
Flying RV-4 C-GDBH
rv4(at)videotron.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
In a message dated 6/10/2002 2:08:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tim(at)bryantechnology.com writes:
> I have been looking for the double grommets that go in the baffle for the
> upper spark plug wires. I don't know what they are even called, or where
> to
> get them. Can someone help with a source?
They are available from... surprise! ACS P/N 375 on pg 238 of my 2000/2001
catalog.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | protective barrier skin cream? |
Can anybody out there recommend a protective barrier cream for your skin
(human skin, not RV skin)?
I've seen several products at this point and I'm swimming in confusion over
which ones actually protect you from harsh elements (i.e. ProSeal, etc.) and
which ones are just dirt & grime barriers.
Gloves in a Bottle?
West Systems 831?
Debba?
Any advice is appreciated...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (tanks)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
At 10:05 PM 6/10/2002 Monday, you wrote:
>
>Hello Listers
> This message is directed to our canadians RV'ers.I'm planning
>on buying a Garmin 295 GPS in a near future and I would like to know if
>anyone knows of a good place (Price)where I could find such a unit.
><...snip...>
>Bruno Dionne
>Flying RV-4 C-GDBH
>rv4(at)videotron.ca
Bruno,
Below are the best couple of prices I could find on the Internet. Can't
speak to either's customer service, though. Interesting that the only
difference between the 295 and the Street Pilot III is the software... and,
well, $600...! Nice of Garmin to allow you to use the Street Pilot
Software on the 295. Probably doesn't work the other way around, though... ;-)
JA Air
------
$1299
http://www.jaair.com/mailorder/shoppingcart.asp?CartValue=1||301||GPSMAP+295+Color+Navigator||1299
AvionicsWest
------------
$1289
http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/garmins295.html
Matt Dralle
RV-4 1763 - N442RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> |
| Subject: | ELTs and their antenna's |
I have been reading a lot of questions about ELTs and their aerials, I hope
the following helps.
I have some experience in searching for ELTs from a C130 in the South
Atlantic, a place I would not like to be lost. When we start the search for
an ELT we start at about 10,000 feet, to increase the horizon (12.3
multiplied by the square root of your height in 100's of feet i.e. 10,000
feet = 123 Nm). At this height once we detect a signal we will home towards
it, once 'on top' we will mark the position and start an orbiting decent
around the marked position. Once at low level, about 250 feet, we will home
back towards the mark position and try to detect the signal again and then
hopefully spot the survivor. The point of explaining this is to understand
what affect the aerial position has. As I am sure you know a dipole aerial
has radiation pattern that is shaped like a doughnut with a hole in the
middle! Directly above the aerial (if it is mounted vertically) there is
very little signal therefore when we look for the 'on top' we get a 'cone of
silence' above the aerial which we use to locate the survivor. However, if
the aerial is not vertical this 'cone of silence' could be quite some
distance to one side of the survivor, which is why we have to get lower and
try to detect the signal again. This is why it is important to try to set
up your ELT aerial in the vertical post crash. It makes the job of the
rescue services much easier, you also get the maximum range in all
directions. It is still possible to home to the ELT with the aerial in any
position, you are just reducing the chances of detection and speed of
location considerably if its not vertical. The next point, splitting the
signal from the ELT to 2 aerials, if the signal is split you now have 2
transmitting aerials with half the power each. Half the power means quarter
the range! (inverse square law) Add to this the interference pattern of the
2 aerials (constructive and destructive interference) and in some directions
you will get no signal and others the full signal (as much as a single
aerial without the split) but the average will be a lot less than the single
aerial, as you can tell I would not recommend it. If I install an ELT (not
required in the UK, I think the country is too small, if you crash its
probably going to be in someone's garden!) I would try to install it in the
cabin with the aerial vertical at shoulder height and attached to the ELT.
The logic being if the cabin is so damaged that the ELT does not work I
probably will not require rescuing, and with the roll bar the aerial should
be protected and be near vertical even if upside-down. There are also the
minimum number of points of failure with the aerial on the ELT, and it could
be quickly removed during the escape from a burning or sinking aircraft.
This is just my opinion but I hope it helps.
Building an RV-8 just started the wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur and Christine" <act1(at)reap.org.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles |
REAP-MailScanner: Found to be clean
These grommets are supplied with new harnesse, Unison any case, I picked up
a couple from a local aircraft maintenance base for free.
Cheers
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Grommets for baffles
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have been looking for the double grommets that go in the baffle for the
> upper spark plug wires. I don't know what they are even called, or where
to
> get them. Can someone help with a source?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Just about baffled out
> N616TB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna orientation |
I don't see a reason why you can't, but I can see a few drawbacks. First,
the splitter will divide the power of the ELT to each antenna, so if you
lose one there will only be half the power to the other. Also, if one of
the two antenna's is missing, there will be an impedance mismatch causing a
high Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) further reducing your effective radiated
power to the remaining antenna.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
>
> I never saw anyone answer the question: Can an antenna splitter be used
on
> the ELT to feed 2 or more antennae?
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
>
>
> >
> > Dear electronically inclined Listers!
> > I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather
(let's
> > say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics.
> > Here my question:
> > Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of
> > signal-splitter?
> > Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the
> > tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario?
> > (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!)
> > Any input would be appreciated.
> > Konrad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Plus/Minus both wings |
Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in and
let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
Richmond, Ky
RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
If you have the space to build both wings I think you'll find it goes much
quicker. I built two Jigs out of unistrut steel and anchored one to the
wall. I left about four feet between the two and found that was plenty to
move around.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
>>> You might also want to check with these folks...their canopy appears
to cost
less and is guaranteed not to break and will be replaced free if it does:
http://www.aircraftextras.com
If you contact them, let us know how it works out...
. Or try Todd at Todd's Canopies. His address is BSILVER05(at)aol.com His
canopies are about 25% cheaper, include shipping, and he guarantees to
replace them if you crack them. His optical quality is excellent, can
provide in different thicknesses and shades.
I got 1/4 inch thick in darker smoke shade for my RV8. I found the service
to be quick and friendly.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Arthur Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
I got my 295 a couple of years ago from Avionics West. Tom was very
knowledgeable and their service was excellent. Art Glaser
BRUNO wrote:
>
> Hello Listers
> This message is directed to our canadians RV'ers.I'm planning
> on buying a Garmin 295 GPS in a near future and I would like to know if
> anyone knows of a good place (Price)where I could find such a unit.
> I'm also looking for a place to buy new disk brakes for my RV-4
> so if you guys know a good shop please feel free to let me know.
>
> Thanks in advance..
>
> Bruno Dionne
> Flying RV-4 C-GDBH
> rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Plus/Minus both wings |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Plus/Minus both wings
* RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in and
let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
Richmond, Ky
RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
http://rvflying.tripod.com
Dana,
* I am building one at a time. Primarily because my space is limited, but
also I believe less boring because I move on to a new section more quickly.
* Jack Textor
* RV8, 2nd wing
* DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
Dana,
I built both wings at the same time. It believe that it saved me time to
do the same operation on each in a fairly short time period. It is easy
to forget the detail that was learned and problems solved if the time
period is too long between doing the first one and the second one. It is
clear (to me) that much detail would be forgotten if on wing was
completed before starting the second one.
My jig arrangement consisted of two fixed columns secured to the floor
and the ceiling with brackets on each to support the ends of the spars
and a second set of brackets for the rear spars. The wings were
underside-to-underside. The only disadvantage of this arrangement that I
can think of is that it required crawling under to access the space
between the wings. This was only a small nuisance.
Two moveable frames would avoid the crawling under problem but would
require more space and would significantly increase the complexity of
the jigging. One of the important considerations is that precise
levelling of the spars as well as stability of the jigging is important.
This would be difficult to accomplish with moveable jigs. My garage
floor (and I expect most garage floors) is pitched toward the door. Much
of the measuring and setup of the spars and ribs is dependent upon spars
being level and ribs being plumb.
Hope this is some help in making a decision.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing N331RD reserved
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
> Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
> Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
> seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
> people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in and
> let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
> or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
>
> Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
> Richmond, Ky
> RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Landmark Birthday |
Y'all!
George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark years
- though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps if y'all
knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
940-648-0841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
Dana,
I debated with this issue as well. In the end, I decided to build them
simultaneously. I couldn't imagine doing one wing and then get set to do
it all over again for the other one. Progress seemed slower, but it
wasn't.
If you look at the drawings, you'll see that they show the left wing only.
Whenever I was fitting or duplicating parts for the right wing, I could
always go back to the left wing and see what I had done there and minimize
screw ups. This was a definite plus. The negative was the lack of space.
The wings get really big in a hurry, and if you are building in tight
quarters, you'll lose your available space that much quicker.
As far as the jig, I built a movable wingjig for my setup (picture
enclosed). It was a weekend's worth of work and $200 to build it. I built
it because I wanted to be able to open my garage door whenever I was
working on the project and the Van's recommended jig would not have
allowed it. At night, I don't mind being closed in, but on nice days it
makes me feel good that I am enjoying the outdoor a bit and watching my
kids play. The true advantage of the jig is that allows me to work on both
sides of the wings at the same time without having to turn them each time.
I have 3.5 feet of clearance between the two. Also, my wing construction
coincided with hurricane season. If one came our way, I wanted to roll the
project out of the garage and into the house and put the cars in the
garage. Perhaps too much thought went into it, but you never know.
Regards,
Fabian
RV-9A
(Rolled over canoe last night)
>>> bo124rs(at)hotmail.com 06/11/02 08:32AM >>>
Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I
am
seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in
and
let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS,
hints
or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
Richmond, Ky
RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
<<<<<<<<<http://www.aircraftextras.com
If you contact them, let us know how it works out>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Hmmmmm, that address shows the same pictures that Todd Silverman has on his
website. Why not go straight to the source? Todd Silverman appears to be
the manufacturer. He gives the same guarantee and his prices are very
competitive and the quality is top notch. http://www.kgarden.com/todd/
I just had a custom bubble made for my Rocket and it turned out great. You
can see a couple pics of the prototype bubble on my website. I'll post more
pics as I finish the installation.
I predict that if Todd keeps doing what he's been doing that several other
canopy manufacturers will be losing a lot of sales!
Vince Frazier
1946 Stinson, NC97535, flying
F-1H Rocket, "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved,
canopy installation stage
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Freddie Hegler" <maxhegler(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
Dana,
I built an "H" frame and built both wings at the same time. It went much
faster and there were no mistakes that I can remember. I built two verticle
posts out of 2 two by fours and made the cross beam out of the same
(actually, it was the same frame I used on the empennage as described in the
plans). On the verticle posts, I attached a horizontal two by four about 5
feet long. I braced the horizontal pieces with the strapping material from
the crates...very sturdy! I then picked up some two by two aluminum angle
from Lowes and cut 4 pieces...2 about 3" long and 2 about 8" long. I
mounted the wing spars on the 8" long end and drilled a 1/8" hole in the
center of the other end and clecoed the spar through the last rib mounting
hole. I will be glad to send you some pictures in a couple of days (I can't
get to my pictures on my computer until I get back from my trip). I think
it saved me almost have the time it would have taken to do the wings
seperately.
Max
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Plus/Minus both wings
>Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:32:26 -0400
>
>
>Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
>Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
>seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
>people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in
>and
>let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
>or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
>
>Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
>Richmond, Ky
>RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
>>message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>> Need some opinions here.......I am seriously considering building both
wings at the same time......<<
I had the room to build both wings at the same time. I believe that the
RV-9A wings would present the same building issues as the RV-7 ? ? ? I
elected to use one frame. However, I built all of the small items at the
same time. For example, I would fabricate both the Left and Right
thing-ama-jig, finish them and prime a bunch of stuff in batches so they
would be ready to install. This includes almost all components of the gas
tanks - even the tank skins. The only exception was items that had
operations to be done "in assembly". I think that this approach removes a
lot of the inefficiencies of "one wing at a time".
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 15% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Becki, tell George that being thirty isn't all that bad!! ;-)
Sam Buchanan
=========================
OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Y'all!
> George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark years
> - though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps if y'all
> knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
>
> Becki Orndorff
> GeoBeck, Inc.
> 940-648-0841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
You're going to need a lot of clecoes as well. Maybe do all the filing and
cleaning up, priming of parts for both wings but when it comes time to
drilling and riveting I personally would rather do 1 wing at a time. I felt
like I was still heavy into the learning process while building the wings.
There are additional concerns such as wiring, pitot tude, bell cranks, fuel
sealant, lights, push rods that you didn't experience with the emp. When I'm in
the learning process I built 1 wing at a time and I did learn as I went and the
2nd wing was better.
The simpler jig you'll build for the 1 wing will save you time as well. Unless
the wings are on back order of course then you have time to build what you need
for 2 wings.
I built mine 1 at a time and I would do it that way again.
Good luck
Steve
RV-7A
fuse
Quoting Dana Overall :
>
> Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
> Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
> seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
> people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in and
>
> let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
>
> or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
>
> Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
> Richmond, Ky
> RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
I saw one on Ebay the other day.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUNO" <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: RV-List: GPS PRICES
>
> Hello Listers
> This message is directed to our canadians RV'ers.I'm planning
> on buying a Garmin 295 GPS in a near future and I would like to know if
> anyone knows of a good place (Price)where I could find such a unit.
> I'm also looking for a place to buy new disk brakes for my
RV-4
> so if you guys know a good shop please feel free to let me know.
>
> Thanks in advance..
>
> Bruno Dionne
> Flying RV-4 C-GDBH
> rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Plus - The plane flies better with two wings
Minus- The plane is heavier with both wings.
Seriously, build both wings at the same time if you have the room. Construct
your jig with enough room between the wings and easy access between the wings.
http://www.excelgeo.com/zilik/rv6/wing8lrg.jpg shows how I jigged my wings. To
get between the wings all I had to do was duck under the brace for the main
spar. You will need twice the clecos to do both wings
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
The number of clecos needed to do both wings is substantial; however, you will
need them for the fuselage anyways. So, why not get them early and do both wings?
Just my $0.02
Fabian
>>> sjhdcl(at)kingston.net 06/11/02 10:03AM >>>
You're going to need a lot of clecoes as well. Maybe do all the filing and
cleaning up, priming of parts for both wings but when it comes time to
drilling and riveting I personally would rather do 1 wing at a time. I felt
like I was still heavy into the learning process while building the wings.
There are additional concerns such as wiring, pitot tude, bell cranks, fuel
sealant, lights, push rods that you didn't experience with the emp. When I'm in
the learning process I built 1 wing at a time and I did learn as I went and the
2nd wing was better.
The simpler jig you'll build for the 1 wing will save you time as well. Unless
the wings are on back order of course then you have time to build what you need
for 2 wings.
I built mine 1 at a time and I would do it that way again.
Good luck
Steve
RV-7A
fuse
Quoting Dana Overall :
>
> Need some opinions here. My wings are due to be delivered this Friday.
> Remember, I am a CPA so I have lots of free time during the summer. I am
> seriously considering building both wings at the same time. Would some
> people who have done this, or those who decided not too, please chime in and
>
> let me know some pitfalls (I know, the same mistake twice), tips, BS, hints
>
> or bombs to avoid. Build two movable frames or just one big one??
>
> Dana Overall (don't plan on doing 6+ spins anyway)
> Richmond, Ky
> RV-7 emp., wings trucking across country
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air vent confusion |
Guys,
I am tired of my backseaters whining about my rear seat air vent leaking
cold air on them and decided I had to bite the bullet and spend the $150 on
the aluminum version of the Van's plastic air vent. I thought I had seen a
message posted that p/n 13-03600 in the Spruce catalog was a drop-in
replacement and ordered one. It's NOT. This part number is a smaller vent
that would require more adapting than I'm willing to do. Does anyone have
accurate information on where to get the aluminum no-leak replacement?
(btw, the black plastic vent in my panel seals completely when closed, must
be the only one in existence!)
On behalf of my backseaters, thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 172.8 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: protective barrier skin cream? |
Dan,
When I worked exclusively with composites we used to use Ply No. 9 gel.
available at Aircraft Spruce.
But I found that gloves are the way to go when using "The Black/Grey Death".
When the gloves become a mess, just shed them and put on another pair. Another
tip get extra napkins every time you eat at a fast food place and have a pile of
them handy when doing any work with epoxy , Pro Seal, etc.
Hope this helps, and thanks again for your weather web work. It made planning
the trip up to Langley and back easier.
Garry " Casper"
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Can anybody out there recommend a protective barrier cream for your skin
> (human skin, not RV skin)?
>
> I've seen several products at this point and I'm swimming in confusion over
> which ones actually protect you from harsh elements (i.e. ProSeal, etc.) and
> which ones are just dirt & grime barriers.
>
> Gloves in a Bottle?
> West Systems 831?
> Debba?
>
> Any advice is appreciated...
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (tanks)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent confusion |
Randy,
Somewhere in Van's instructions is a paragraph about using proseal to make
the vents air-tight. I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet (they aren't
installed) but it sure sounded like it would work. Have you tried that?
Terry
>
>
> (btw, the black plastic vent in my panel seals completely when closed,
must
> be the only one in existence!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
Hello Fabian,
I'm ready to put this together and liked your idea. Could you forward the
picture of your moveable double wing jig to me (it didn't make it to the
RV-list). I can post it to my web sight if you wish.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode,
9A under construction
>
>Dana,
><>
>As far as the jig, I built a movable wingjig for my setup (picture
>enclosed). It was a weekend's worth of work and $200 to build it. I built
>it because I wanted to be able to open my garage door whenever I was
>working on the project and the Van's recommended jig would not have
>allowed it. At night, I don't mind being closed in, but on nice days it
>makes me feel good that I am enjoying the outdoor a bit and watching my
>kids play. The true advantage of the jig is that allows me to work on both
>sides of the wings at the same time without having to turn them each time.
>I have 3.5 feet of clearance between the two. Also, my wing construction
>coincided with hurricane season. If one came our way, I wanted to roll the
>project out of the garage and into the house and put the cars in the
>garage. Perhaps too much thought went into it, but you never know.
>
>Regards,
>
>Fabian
>RV-9A
>(Rolled over canoe last night)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | RE:Builder Assistance |
Hi Guys,
We have a Glasair builder on the east coast who's looking for someone to
travel to his location and help with FWF and hydraulic systems
installation. Any one know of anybody interested?
Thanks,
Bruce
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent confusion |
Look in "21 Years of the RV-ator". There's a blurb about putting a bead of
RTV on the inside of the vent body. The aluminum vents you speak of are a
lot smaller, but they seal better. I don't think the adapter is a big deal,
unless it would interfere with something.
Jim Bower
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: Air vent confusion
>Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 09:07:16 -0700
>
>
>Guys,
>
>I am tired of my backseaters whining about my rear seat air vent leaking
>cold air on them and decided I had to bite the bullet and spend the $150 on
>the aluminum version of the Van's plastic air vent. I thought I had seen a
>message posted that p/n 13-03600 in the Spruce catalog was a drop-in
>replacement and ordered one. It's NOT. This part number is a smaller vent
>that would require more adapting than I'm willing to do. Does anyone have
>accurate information on where to get the aluminum no-leak replacement?
>
>(btw, the black plastic vent in my panel seals completely when closed, must
>be the only one in existence!)
>
>On behalf of my backseaters, thanks!
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, 172.8 hrs
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plus/Minus both wings |
I built both wings for my RV-6 at the same time on a fixed wing jig. I would
definitely do so again. My approach was to complete a step on one wing and
once I got it right complete that step on the other wing. That way I didn't
forget how I did it before getting to the same job on the other side. I
alternated from one wing to the other to balance the mistakes :-).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Hey Becki: Tell George thirty is so bad I guess....I can't remember its been
so long ago....NJ forever, Jim Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Here ! Here !!
Chuck & Dave
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Landmark Birthday
>Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:48:32 -0500
>
>
>Becki, tell George that being thirty isn't all that bad!! ;-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>=========================
>
>OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Y'all!
> > George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark
>years
> > - though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps if
>y'all
> > knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
> >
> > Becki Orndorff
> > GeoBeck, Inc.
> > 940-648-0841
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna orientation |
I would add to this a statistical problem. Depending on where one of the
antenna leads is cut, there may be no power output from the ELT. This is
basic transmission line theory (and practice!). An open or shorted antenna
lead can appear as a dead short at the junction of the two leads, hence, no
power out.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne R. Couture <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
<commando@cox-internet.com>
|
| I don't see a reason why you can't, but I can see a few drawbacks. First,
| the splitter will divide the power of the ELT to each antenna, so if you
| lose one there will only be half the power to the other. Also, if one of
| the two antenna's is missing, there will be an impedance mismatch causing
a
| high Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) further reducing your effective radiated
| power to the remaining antenna.
|
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
| To: "RV-list"
| Subject: Fw: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
|
|
| >
| > I never saw anyone answer the question: Can an antenna splitter be used
| on
| > the ELT to feed 2 or more antennae?
| >
| > David Carter
| >
| > ----- Original Message -----
| > From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
| > To:
| > Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation
| >
| >
| > >
| > > Dear electronically inclined Listers!
| > > I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather
| (let's
| > > say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics.
| > > Here my question:
| > > Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of
| > > signal-splitter?
| > > Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the
| > > tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario?
| > > (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!)
| > > Any input would be appreciated.
| > > Konrad
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Kuta" <greif10(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft operating costs |
Hello,
I have been lurking on ond off the list for awhile and hope someone
can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but theres one
question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs to
keep an RV flying.
This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Pink Panther for sale |
I have inspected one too many cellphone towers up close and personally so in
the interest of seeing my next birthday... I found an IFR -4 that suits me.
Hence, the pink panther is for sale.
1994
735 TTAF
~635SMOH
IO-320 160 hp solid crank
Bernie Warnke prop
VFR
Val 760 Com
AT-50 w/enc
Flybuddy Loran
Turn/Bank
G-meter
Aeroflash lights & strobes
no panel lights
A great flying airplane!!! I have flown it all over the country and would
leave tommorrow for anywhere. I will miss her.
The wheel and deal price is $45,000
The no BS buy it and fly it home price is $40,000
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Freddie Hegler" <maxhegler(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Thirty what...Dog years? ;-)
Have a great day!
Max
>From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Landmark Birthday
>Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:52:40 +0000
>
>
>Here ! Here !!
>
>Chuck & Dave
>
>
> >From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Landmark Birthday
> >Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:48:32 -0500
> >
> >
> >Becki, tell George that being thirty isn't all that bad!! ;-)
> >
> >Sam Buchanan
> >
> >=========================
> >
> >OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Y'all!
> > > George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark
> >years
> > > - though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps
>if
> >y'all
> > > knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
> > >
> > > Becki Orndorff
> > > GeoBeck, Inc.
> > > 940-648-0841
> >
> >
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
Paul Kuta wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have been lurking on ond off the list for awhile and hope someone
> can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but theres one
> question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs to
> keep an RV flying.
>
> This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
> keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
Paul, you need to sum all your fixed cost (hangar, insurance, annual
inspection, etc, etc...), add hourly costs (fuel, oil, routine
maintenance, overhaul reserve, etc.....) and divide by the estimated
number of hours flown each year.
It is up to you as to whether or not you amortize the cost of the plane.
I suspect that by the time you do that (and don't include the cost of
the plane) that you are going to be looking at around $50-60.00 per
hour, about the same as flying a Cessna 152 or 172 with simple panel.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6......fifty bucks per hour)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
Paul, as you probably already know, there are a lot of variables. Engine
size, hangered or not, etc. But I figure about $45 an hour if you fly 200 hrs/yr,
and about $58 an hour if you fly 100 hrs/yr. Hope this gives you a general
idea. I'm sure some of the other guys on the list will chime in on this thread!
Tommy
6A Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Kuta
Subject: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
Hello,
I have been lurking on ond off the list for awhile and hope someone
can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but theres one
question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs
to
keep an RV flying.
This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will
be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
Paul,
I'll give it a stab based on the 3.5 yrs my RV6 has been flying here in
Colorado Springs. These are ball park figures and high/low ranges. Assumes
you do the work yourself.
Operating costs:
Hourly:
$16/hr for gas, 160hp ( $2/gal, 8 gal/hr )
$0.60/hr for oil & filter ( 50 hr oil chg: 8 qts @ $1.50/qt, $12 filter,
4 qts added between chg)
$0.50/hr for tires ( $100/ main gear set, 200 hrs/set )
Monthly:
$175-$250 hangar rent
Annual: $400 - $1,600 ins ( value of RV, liablilty only or full coverage,
tail wheel or conv gear, pilot experience)
Bi-annual: $200-$300 for transponder & static system certification
Other cost to consider: reserve for engine overhaul and/or repair
Bob Hall, RV-6
Coorado Springs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
When I built mine, I didn't plan on selling it anytime soon. I had a new
engine with a 2000 hour TBO. I figured that since I would probably sell it
before I needed an overhaul (Like less than 1000 hours) I wouldn't factor in
the cost of an overhaul. It just didn't really make sense. Now, if you
have a mid time engine, by all means factor it in, because more than likely
you will need to pull a cylinder or two at some point.
I figured only about $30/hour variable cost (Including gas). I didn't
include hanger or insurance, as I have to pay those anyway, and I felt it
wasn't a "real" hourly cost. I figured it as a cost of owning an airplane,
not what the airplane cost to fly. Now, granted I only had 80 hours on it
when I sold it, so there wasn't much to go wrong. But, after looking at
many people's flying airplanes, if you take care of it, the only real
maintence costs I can see would be consumables like tires, brakes, seals,
hoses, oil, filters, etc. That stuff doesn't add up to all that much
really. Leave yourself $500 a year for the annual condition inspection to
replace hoses, brakes, tires and such and I bet you would be fine for the
first few years. RV's are simple enough (if you make it that way) that as
long as you keep everything tight and don't hit any taxi lights, you
shouldn't incurr much expense other than the obvious.
Again, I only had 80 hours on my plane when I sold it, so don't really take
my word for it, as I could very well be off base. Ask a high time guy like
Gary Sobek and I bet you could get some more accurate numbers.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Kuta" <greif10(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
>
> Hello,
>
> I have been lurking on ond off the list for awhile and hope
someone
> can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but theres one
> question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs
to
> keep an RV flying.
>
> This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
> keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will
be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Pink Panther for sale |
What's a "Pink Panther"?
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pink Panther for sale
>
> I have inspected one too many cellphone towers up close and personally so
in
> the interest of seeing my next birthday... I found an IFR -4 that suits
me.
> Hence, the pink panther is for sale.
>
> 1994
> 735 TTAF
> ~635SMOH
> IO-320 160 hp solid crank
> Bernie Warnke prop
> VFR
> Val 760 Com
> AT-50 w/enc
> Flybuddy Loran
> Turn/Bank
> G-meter
> Aeroflash lights & strobes
> no panel lights
>
>
> A great flying airplane!!! I have flown it all over the country and would
> leave tommorrow for anywhere. I will miss her.
>
> The wheel and deal price is $45,000
> The no BS buy it and fly it home price is $40,000
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chandler" <Chandler(at)arbbs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: protective barrier skin cream? |
> > Can anybody out there recommend a protective barrier cream for your skin
> > (human skin, not RV skin)?
> >
Dan I've used a product called invisible glove, but not sure where it can be
purchased. It's worth it, if you can find it.
forrest
RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pink Panther for sale |
Duh!!!
Sooooooo Sooooorrrryyyyy!
It is an RV-4 of some infamy because it is pink, not really pink, but it has
a panther on the tail. Long time listers remember when I terrorized this
list with stories etc....
Again, many apoligies...
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Pink Panther for sale
>
> What's a "Pink Panther"?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Pink Panther for sale
>
>
> >
> > I have inspected one too many cellphone towers up close and personally
so
> in
> > the interest of seeing my next birthday... I found an IFR -4 that suits
> me.
> > Hence, the pink panther is for sale.
> >
> > 1994
> > 735 TTAF
> > ~635SMOH
> > IO-320 160 hp solid crank
> > Bernie Warnke prop
> > VFR
> > Val 760 Com
> > AT-50 w/enc
> > Flybuddy Loran
> > Turn/Bank
> > G-meter
> > Aeroflash lights & strobes
> > no panel lights
> >
> >
> > A great flying airplane!!! I have flown it all over the country and
would
> > leave tommorrow for anywhere. I will miss her.
> >
> > The wheel and deal price is $45,000
> > The no BS buy it and fly it home price is $40,000
> >
> > Tailwinds,
> > Doug Rozendaal
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | protective barrier skin cream? |
>>I've used a product called invisible glove, but not sure where it can
be
>>purchased. It's worth it, if you can find it.
I agree. It is not the same as Gloves in a Bottle. That is also good
stuff but for a different purpose. Invisible Gloves #1211 is made by
Sun Magic Intl P.O. Box 410541 out of Melbourne FL 32941-0541. Last
number I have is 407-259-1847. It is available from the part sources. I
think Chief and Aircraft Spruce carry it.
It's good stuff. I have used it with fiberglass resin, changing oil
(makes cleanup MUCH easier), etc. I have a pint tub of the stuff that
says 3 year shelf life and I have had the same tub for 5+ years and it's
still going.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>
> I saw one on Ebay the other day.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
> http://www.myrv7.com
> Fuselage
Check that out and should should be able to get a new one for a little bit less
;-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Amount of Plastic Brake Line Needed - RV-6A - Dual Brakes |
Many months ago, I installed the brake fluid reservoir high up on my firewall to
give good clearance from the reinforcement angles when installing the plastic
T-fitting - an RV-list tip, by the way. Looked just fine all the time I was
wiring, etc.
Then, a few days ago it was time to install the actual brake lines. I have a -6A
with dual L&R brakes so the two lines from left to right and then the supply
lines all had to be cut from the 9 foot length of heavy duty nylon tube that
Van's supplies with the dual brake kit. So two long pieces cut and fitted with
a reasonable bit of slack to allow for pedal movement, one piece cut to length
to go from the reservoir to the supply side of a cylinder, one more to go and
guess how much tubing I was short - about 14 - 15 inches. Guess who wishes he
had mounted the reservoir about 7 inches lower on the firewall now....
Let's see, $7.70 US for a 9 foot piece of tubing of which I only need 2 ft, plus
currency exchange plus postage, plus a $5 customs service fee - call it $25
CDN to fix this one up.
No, this is not a complaint or a whine, just a note for the archives and advice
to those builders looking at installing their brake fluid reservoirs soon. Put
it up too high and 9 feet will NOT be enough tubing for the lines you need to
install later on. Consider yourselves cautioned on this one now !
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A - in the endless tinkering stage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:41:07 -0600
Paul,
I'll give it a stab based on the 3.5 yrs my RV6 has been flying here in
Colorado Springs. These are ball park figures and high/low ranges. Assumes
you do the work yourself.
Operating costs:
Hourly:
$16/hr for gas, 160hp ( $2/gal, 8 gal/hr )
$0.60/hr for oil & filter ( 50 hr oil chg: 8 qts @ $1.50/qt, $12 filter,
4 qts added between chg)
$0.50/hr for tires ( $100/ main gear set, 200 hrs/set )
Monthly:
$175-$250 hangar rent
Annual: $400 - $1,600 ins ( value of RV, liablilty only or full coverage,
tail wheel or conv gear, pilot experience)
Bi-annual: $200-$300 for transponder & static system certification
Other cost to consider: reserve for engine overhaul and/or repair
Bob Hall, RV-6
Coorado Springs.
Looks like Bob hit everything very close to California Costs.
In SoCAL, I average $2.30 / GAL gas ($16.79/hr) and the Constant Speed prop
O-320 averages 7.3 GPH. I average $1.16 / hour multi weight oil and filter.
Also add 4 quarts between changes. I do use the more expensive Goodyear
tires (~$150 / set) and they have been lasting 350-400 hours.
Hangar $350 / Month
My Insurance for Libality only $385 / year was $420 last year.
Time for maintenance averages one (1) hour for every ten (10) hours flying.
Paul Rosales is going to pass me in hours and he reports one (1) hour
maintenance for eleven to twelve (11 - 12) hours of flying. Paul is very
good at checking AirNav.com for fuel prices and routes his trips for lowest
fuel costs.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,082.2+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Brake fluid reservoir |
Fellow Listers:
A quick and simple question. How high should I fill my brake reservoir?
All the way to the top?
(Van's unit).
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
I think there was a discussion on this some time ago, but looking at Gary
Sobeks recent message and "signature", it dawned on me that there are
probably SEVERAL RVs out there that have crossed the 1,000 hour mark.
Now I am sure this does not compare to the first flight but this is a
milestone that anyone who makes should get a pat on the back for. A friend
has a Long-Eze that had crossed 1000 hours and he was given a little gold
plaque to attach to the plane.
Soooo.... Wouldn't it be nice if someone like Van's "recognized" those extra
special birds? The plaque would probably cost about $1.00 or so, but the
thought would be extra special.
Any idea as to how many have crossed 1000 hours??
What thinketh ye, the list???
James
Duly impressed and 1000 hours away from getting the FIRST flight hour! ;-)
"If you don't make dust, you eat dust"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: protective barrier skin cream? |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Can anybody out there recommend a protective barrier cream for your skin (human
skin, not RV
> skin)?
>
> Gloves in a Bottle?
> West Systems 831?
> Debba?
>
> Any advice is appreciated...
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (tanks)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
Many years of experience in building and servicing formula race cars has shown
that a product
called PR-88 is one of the better "invisible gloves in a can". This works with
fibreglass resin,
grease, grime, paint, harsh solvents etc., etc. It is available from some automotive
jobbers,
industrial supply outlets, hobby outlets etc.
--
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amount of Plastic Brake Line Needed - RV-6A - Dual Brakes |
Hi Jim,
I had an oposite but equal problem. I don't know how my reservoir is
compared to you but I had brake line left over. Now I am concerned there is
not enough to allow the full movement of the pedals without chafing the line
I will be buying more also and the 2' I have left is worthless.
Funny but I guess that is why it is an experimental. We experiment and Van
collects.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
N616TB FWF plus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
In a message dated 6/11/2002 12:48:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
greif10(at)mindspring.com writes:
> I have been lurking on and off the list for a while and hope someone
> can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but there's one
> question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs to
> keep an RV flying.
>
> This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
> keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will be
> appreciated.
A new plane with new O-320 engine and simple instruments will cost around
$50K nonrecurring. Let's assume you keep the plane in a hangar, do your own
maintenance, you fly 200hr/yr (twice the average), nothing out of the
ordinary goes wrong and you keep the plane for 10 years. Recurring costs will
roughly be as follows:
$5/hr goes to engine rebuild fund ($10,000 after 2000hr TBO) but may be less.
$12/hr goes for hangar fees (rough guess, but your area may be cheaper or
more expensive)
$1/hr for new mags or electronic ignition.
$1/hr for oil, filter and analysis (assume done every 50 operating hr)
$20/hr for fuel (based on 7.7 gph and $2.60/gal)
$0.20/hr for biennial transponder recert
$1/hr for misc stuff that will break and need replacement
That's a little over $40/hr or $670/month.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Brake fluid reservoir |
How high should I fill my brake reservoir? All the way to the top?
(Van's unit).
Well, that would be one way to find out how full you should fill it
because it will overflow to the level that you should keep it. I keep
mine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch low. You don't need all that fluid. It will
drop as your pads wear. I check it at oil changes.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Coonan <gcoonan(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cracking Canopy on installation |
I had a dozen requests to elaborate on the circumstances that let the
destruction of my canopy. Sorry for the delay but I just received my
new XP-360 FADEC engine (gorgeous). Anyway, I had to tweak the canopy
frame to line up with the roll bar and rails. When I clamped on the
canopy, it pulled the corners out by approx 1 =BD=93 and pulled the top
down
=BD=93. Here is where I started making mistakes. Before I figured out
that
the canopy/frame had stretched out I drilled/clecoed all the holes.
While the canopy was clecoed to the frame, I squeezed the frame back
into shape. Nothing happened but I think it definitely stressed the
plastic. Everything was fine, so I moved on to the windshield. After I
completed the windshield, I tried to match up the canopy/windshield. At
that time I noticed the sides of the canopy were bowed out about =BD=94.
This time I took the plastic off the frame and reshaped the canopy frame
to match the roll bar and windshield. Unfortunately when I put the
plastic back on, it pulled the canopy frame out again. The bow was gone
but it was just about =BD=94 wide. Well =BD=94 isn=92t much so I
thought I could
just squeeze a bit and that=92s when it exploded. Several chunks went
flying across the garage.
Of course when I spoke with Tom at Van=92s, he said that you should not
flex the plastic on the frame. Now I know. Luckily, I was able to get
another canopy from Van=92s at a discount. The canopy manufacturer had
a
second or a blem as the call it, with a scratch on the windshield
portion.
Strategy for the second go round: the canopy frame is about an 1=94
narrow and =BD=94 tall. I believe that when the plastic is clamped on
it
will spread back out and be very close to just right. Anyway I will be
an expert soon. Back to the FADEC manual as I wait for the new canopy.
Gary Coonan
Rockvale, TN
RV-7 N696TT (Finishing)
gcoonan(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
COST??
RV's don't cost, they pay!
Think what psychiatrists cost! Check out the price of whiskey. Look at
all the skills the builder develops that save money on honey do's.
Cost accounting is a difficult subject. What is the time value of the
money invested? What are the missed financial opportunities like losing
your butt in the stock market?
Here are the costs:
M money cost
A annual inspection
D depreciation or more properly, decline in value
H hangar or tie down
I insurance
T taxes - nobody has yet mentioned these goblins
The above are fixed costs that come whether you fly the plane or watch
others fly.
The below are more likely the actual cost of flying
F fuel
E engine reserve for overhaul or replacement
M maintenance costs directly related to flights
P pilot maintenance costs, training, charts etc
I instruments and avionics wear and tear
To go fly for an hour costs FEMPI which seems to be about twice the cost of
fuel.
The per hour cost to own and fly the airplane goes down as you fly more
since the MADHIT is divided by more hours. Therefore, to save money one
must go flying as often as one can bear to! QED.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1000 hour RV's |
I thought that along the Van's Air Force theme line that we should come up
with some bars to put on our planes. They could represent various aspects
of building, indicating things like slow build/quick build, number of years
to complete, maybe even purple hearts for drilled fingers.
Long-EZ guys are great. They gave me a plaque for beating several of
them at Jackpot, NV! Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: RV-List: 1000 hour RV's
>
> I think there was a discussion on this some time ago, but looking at Gary
> Sobeks recent message and "signature", it dawned on me that there are
> probably SEVERAL RVs out there that have crossed the 1,000 hour mark.
>
> Now I am sure this does not compare to the first flight but this is a
> milestone that anyone who makes should get a pat on the back for. A friend
> has a Long-Eze that had crossed 1000 hours and he was given a little gold
> plaque to attach to the plane.
>
> Soooo.... Wouldn't it be nice if someone like Van's "recognized" those
extra
> special birds? The plaque would probably cost about $1.00 or so, but the
> thought would be extra special.
>
> Any idea as to how many have crossed 1000 hours??
>
> What thinketh ye, the list???
>
> James
>
> Duly impressed and 1000 hours away from getting the FIRST flight hour!
;-)
>
>
> "If you don't make dust, you eat dust"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
you might think about finding a partner. I share my hangar with
another -6A. We built a ramp (from scrap lumber even) and store both planes
in one 40' T hangar. In the 5 years we've been there it has saved us over
$6,000 in rent.(at $237/mo) That's some serious money! Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Amount of Plastic Brake Line Needed - RV-6A - Dual Brakes |
Another possibility:
I've heard that the plastic brake lines are prone to melting/leaking if
the operator happens to ride the brakes one too many times or for a
little too long. The solution to this is to use a proper brake line
from the brake back up to some point on the gearleg... Maybe a proper
brake line with fittings on it to span the 7" per side would be a better
investment in the long run, even if it's more $$$ now (brake lines are
something like 3-4x the cost of the plastic tubing, i'm led to believe).
Speaking totally from hearsay here, i'm nowhere near far along enough on
my kit to know if any of this is true, it's just what i've heard from
other builders/flyers. And yes, I know that the *real* solution is to
learn not to ride the brakes, but... 8-)
-Rob P
rv7 "at" b4.ca
RV-7 Empennage
Jim Oke wrote:
>
>Many months ago, I installed the brake fluid reservoir high up on my firewall
to give good clearance from the reinforcement angles when installing the plastic
T-fitting - an RV-list tip, by the way. Looked just fine all the time I was
wiring, etc.
>
>Then, a few days ago it was time to install the actual brake lines. I have a -6A
with dual L&R brakes so the two lines from left to right and then the supply
lines all had to be cut from the 9 foot length of heavy duty nylon tube that
Van's supplies with the dual brake kit. So two long pieces cut and fitted with
a reasonable bit of slack to allow for pedal movement, one piece cut to length
to go from the reservoir to the supply side of a cylinder, one more to go and
guess how much tubing I was short - about 14 - 15 inches. Guess who wishes
he had mounted the reservoir about 7 inches lower on the firewall now....
>
>Let's see, $7.70 US for a 9 foot piece of tubing of which I only need 2 ft, plus
currency exchange plus postage, plus a $5 customs service fee - call it $25
CDN to fix this one up.
>
>No, this is not a complaint or a whine, just a note for the archives and advice
to those builders looking at installing their brake fluid reservoirs soon. Put
it up too high and 9 feet will NOT be enough tubing for the lines you need
to install later on. Consider yourselves cautioned on this one now !
>
>Jim Oke
>Winnipeg, MB
>RV-6A - in the endless tinkering stage.
>
>
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prince Propellors |
Hello,
I searched the archives, but didn't find any reference to Prince P-tip
fixed pitch propellers. Does anyone have any experience with them?
I found them in my '01-'02 Aircraft Spruce catalog (pg 163). They are a
scimitar shaped wood core composite prop that, according to the write
up, change pitch by up to 4" through flexing depending on the airspeed
and forces of a climb vs. cruise configuration. In climb it has less
pitch and in cruise at higher speed it provides more pitch.
The write up also claims, due to unique tip design, that a 68" P-tip
prop will move as much air as a standard 72" prop allowing for a bit
less diameter and therefore less "flat plate" drag from the prop.
Are these design claims to-good-to-be-true theory, or does this prop
really function as the Spruce catalog write up tells?
Thanks,
Pete E.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
In a message dated 6/11/2002 8:47:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
> A new plane with new O-320 engine and simple instruments will cost around
> $50K nonrecurring. Let's assume you keep the plane in a hangar, do your own
>
> maintenance, you fly 200hr/yr (twice the average), nothing out of the
> ordinary goes wrong and you keep the plane for 10 years. Recurring costs
> will
> roughly be as follows:
>
> $5/hr goes to engine rebuild fund ($10,000 after 2000hr TBO) but may be
> less.
> $12/hr goes for hangar fees (rough guess, but your area may be cheaper or
> more expensive)
> $1/hr for new mags or electronic ignition.
> $1/hr for oil, filter and analysis (assume done every 50 operating hr)
> $20/hr for fuel (based on 7.7 gph and $2.60/gal)
> $0.20/hr for biennial transponder recert
> $1/hr for misc stuff that will break and need replacement
>
> That's a little over $40/hr or $670/month.
>
>
Oops! I forgot hull and liability insurance and lunch. That brings the
total to $50/hr (a good round number).
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | 10 Hr Report & Lean Carb (long) |
-
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> My engine is much better since I drilled the carb jet from #42 to #38 but
> that is still not enough.
>
> As I mentioned in my 10 hour report the engine was previously running on
> the
> lean side of peak temperature, any leaning with the mixture control and
the
> cylinder head temperature immediately dropped.
>
> Since drilling the carb jet to #38 I think that the engine is now running
> just on the rich side of peak temperature. Leaning with mixture control at
> 10,000 feet now gives me a 5 degree F increase in head temperature before
> temperature peaks and starts to lean drop. Cylinder temperatures in climb
&
> cruise are now 5 - 10 degrees cooler.
>
> Next week I will remove the carb and open the jet up some more, think I
> will
> try a #37 drill bit but am tempted to jump to a #36.
>
> George McNutt
>
George-
I would urge you to ignore (relatively) the CHT's and focus on EGT for
leaning and jetting purposes. There is much on this in the archives (try my
screen name and a few key words like carb, jet, drill for in interesting
read
on my personal experience. I overdid it and ended up with a rich carb.) My
problems in this regard were solved by getting the richer carb (again, the
Marvel part no. will be in the archives) which I bought from a builder with
a
stock Lycoming 160 hp from Vans who decided to go to fuel injection before
his first flight, so I got a brand new carb at an excellent price.
I worry you may hurt yourself or your engine if you try to jet based on
cylinder head temps. As far as I know, only exhaust gas temps are suitable
for this purpose.
Be safe-
Bill B
Hi Bill
Thanks for the concern, I had reviewed many of Gary Corde and your post's in
the archives on this subject.
I did drill the carb jet out one more time from # 38 to # 36 and it seems
just right for my 160 HP installation. I am now able to lean the engine at
9,000 feet and get an increase of 50 RPM and an increase in CHT of 20 plus
degrees F.
Finally I am running on the rich side of best power mixture, and this is
where I want to be.
I can glide throttle closed, mixture rich and carb heat on at 9000 feet
without the engine mis-behaving and have good engine response on simulated
go arounds so it's still not overly rich.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: canopy source |
HI-JUST RECEIVED TWO OF TODDS CANOPYS-THEY LOOK GREAT AND GOOD
SERVICE-TOO-TOM
Whelan Farms Airport / CT01
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
e-mail: wfact01(at)aol.com
Telephone: 203-266-5300
Fax: 203-266-5140
President, EAA Chapter 1097
EAA Technical Counselor
RV-8 Lycoming IO540 (Getting Close)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Anybody have any experience with the Ellison Throttle Body Injection? I am
looking for opionions and drawbacks that sort of thing. I am toying with
the idea of an Airflow Performance FI system or an Ellison TBI. The winner
would be installed on an O-360 or XP-360.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have been lurking on ond off the list for awhile and hope
>someone
>can help me. I am seriously considering building an RV9 but theres one
>question that needs an answer to. Can someone tell me how much it costs to
>keep an RV flying.
>
> This will be my first aircraft so I have no idea what it takes to
>keep it flying in tip top condition. Any help estimating the costs will be
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Paul
>
Paul,
Like you, I had many concerns about being able to afford just to own and
maintain an RV before I even considered what it would cost to build it. I
try not to dig too deep into the exact dollar figure required to operate it
hourly to go get that burger on a Saturday morning. If I do, I find that it
is some really scary number. Do I really "pay" that much to fly it? No, not
really. The biggest expenses occur at one time, and I usually know it's
coming and plan my finances accordingly. For instance, insurance and hangar
fees. I know how much the hangar costs every month ($257). It is due the
same time, every month, and I look at it as long term protection for my
cherished airplane. I have a rough estimate of my insurance bill every
December (approx. $1400), so I feed a savings account out of every paycheck
that adds up to that amount and a bit more. The other expenses...fuel, oil,
filters, cleaning materials, etc, I find that I can budget out of my spare
change that most any employed person has available via the closest ATM.
I have had two instances of unplanned, expensive repairs: two cracked jugs,
one found at annual and the other during a spot check during an oil change.
Oh well, that's what credit cards are for. Bottom line is that if you truly
desire to own an RV, you WILL find a way to do it. I equate it to the other
typical guy-hobbies...fishing, boating, golf, hunting, motorcycles, etc.
You just make it happen as best you can.
Best of luck to you,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
291 hrs. of grins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
In a message dated 6/12/2002 5:24:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> Gary, did you say $2.60/ Gallon?
>
> I'm paying $1.85 here in Arizona. You wouldn't be in California would you?
>
Of course. In the ultimate land of supply and demand they just keep on
ratcheting up the prices to see if we will continue to pay.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
Not to mention the $700/mo. hangers at RHV San Jose, CA !!!
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648Rv Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [SMTP:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 8:09 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/12/2002 5:24:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
>
>
> > Gary, did you say $2.60/ Gallon?
> >
> > I'm paying $1.85 here in Arizona. You wouldn't be in California would
> you?
> >
>
> Of course. In the ultimate land of supply and demand they just keep on
> ratcheting up the prices to see if we will continue to pay.
>
> -GV (N1GV)
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
> Not to mention the $700/mo. hangers at RHV San Jose, CA !!!
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648Rv Finishing
Ed,
Just SEVEN HUNDRED BUCKS?
Doesn't sound to bad if it is a 100x100 Building that could be shared!
Don't tell us it isn't?
KLW
And please:
> DEW KNOT ARKYV <
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | art stavro <art79(at)pacbell.net> |
Are there any experienced RV4 pilots out there who might be interested
in flying an RV from Virginis to California? If so call Art at 510 541
4979 Cell/510 278 0260 home..Art Stavro
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
>
>Not to mention the $700/mo. hangers at RHV San Jose, CA !!!
There are hangars available at RHV???? Last I heard people were dying of
old age before reaching the top of the list.
I am in a share hangar and have a spot big enuf for RV, work bench, drill
press and shelf for only $250.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>Anybody have any experience with the Ellison Throttle Body Injection?
I have a friend who races a Pitts S1 with an Ellison at Reno. Since he has
gotten the little bipe to go 199.7 mph, partly due to using my Sensenich
prop, he seems happy.
He always has aircraft weight on his mind but I don't hear much about fuel
economy.
Have you any specific questions?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Becky,
You are a mean rascal!
Bruce Knoll
----- Original Message -----
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Landmark Birthday
Y'all!
George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark years
- though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps if y'all
knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
940-648-0841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Landmark Birthday |
Donald.Bailey(at)bnsf.com, BERRY42MSP(at)aol.com, sirs(at)neosoft.com,
cannady(at)dellepro.com, sgross(at)imagin.net, kendra-hart(at)home.com,
Marykalbert(at)aol.com, kiser(at)avpaxp1.ncifcrf.gov, Bmaynard507(at)cs.com,
JParis(at)maycpa.com, Cnursetx(at)aol.com, Orndorffma(at)aol.com,
orndorffs(at)enterprise.navy.mil, electroair(at)juno.com, linsaxon(at)bvunet.net,
bsaxon(at)bellatlantic.net, m.silva(at)bpf-cpa.com, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com,
vetxaust(at)gwtc.net, barryvisl(at)msn.com, willig10(at)yahoo.com
Hi!
George's birthday is the 18th and this is one of those landmark years
- though I probably shouldn't tell you which one! I thought perhaps if y'all
knew that you might help me in recognizing his special day! Thanks!
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
Hey Kevin: Would you by any chance have a photo or a sketch of the ramp you
built to get two RV's in a 40' hangar. If you do and could mail it to me at
5732 Highbluff Terrace, Pleasanton, CA 94588 or describe it to me on e-mail
I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
Happy Birthday and Many Happy Returns George. How's it feel to be 30 ;-), I
can't remember that far back?.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
yes wayne
i know louisana is cheap, just as sure as you will probably blow a tire or
bend a rim getting to the airport, because all the roads suck so bad. i quess
it balances out 1 way or another.
scott
tampa
cajun born and raised ayyyyy yeeeeeeeee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Hi Bruno
I would check on ebay for 295's I've seen some good deals on new ones as
well as used ones. Other than that, going to Oshkosh and buying one at the
show would probably be the best price. You could probably get it back over
the border without paying taxes as well.
As for the breaks, an old AME and 4 owner friend of mine helped me change my
pads a couple of weeks ago and we use a set of Piper Astec (sp?) pads, you
only need one wheels worth and just cut them in half. Works fine and is
cheaper.,
Cheers
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUNO" <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: RV-List: GPS PRICES
>
> Hello Listers
> This message is directed to our canadians RV'ers.I'm planning
> on buying a Garmin 295 GPS in a near future and I would like to know if
> anyone knows of a good place (Price)where I could find such a unit.
> I'm also looking for a place to buy new disk brakes for my
RV-4
> so if you guys know a good shop please feel free to let me know.
>
> Thanks in advance..
>
> Bruno Dionne
> Flying RV-4 C-GDBH
> rv4(at)videotron.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices - SE CT |
All,
LANMAR Aviaition @ Groton-New London airport > $2.05/gal
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Need engine guru!!! |
Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel injection. Starts
perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS the engine warms up it runs
rougher and rougher. Eventually will barely run at all, what the heck is
going on here?
Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and all seemed to
be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost pump, nothing helped. It is
obviously heat related, I am looking to send the fuel injection system back
to have it checked out, any other thoughts?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices - Denver, CO |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
GXY from the truck on the weekends: $1.75 weekdays: 1.80. A little gas war is
going on between FBO's this summer.
FTG Hangar rent (my 3rd), $230.00/mo includes water/heat/elec/toilet
Estimated cost of own/fly my 6A on an hourly basis: $43.00
Gary in Pine Junction Colorado
Smokey the Bear says "Only YOU can prevent Forest Fires!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
I don't really have any specific questions. I guess I am really trying to
spark a pros / cons debate on the Ellison vs. Carb vs. Airflow Performance
FI. I can't really see myself going with a carb over the Ellison if it is a
reasonably reliable alternative because it doesn't seem to be that much more
expensive than a carb and not any more difficult to install. But I may want
to spend the extra $$$ and go with the AP FI, if the advantages are there
but I have zero experience and I just wanted the opinions of those who have
gone before.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ellison TBI
>
> >
> >Anybody have any experience with the Ellison Throttle Body Injection?
>
>
> I have a friend who races a Pitts S1 with an Ellison at Reno. Since he
has
> gotten the little bipe to go 199.7 mph, partly due to using my Sensenich
> prop, he seems happy.
>
> He always has aircraft weight on his mind but I don't hear much about fuel
> economy.
>
> Have you any specific questions?
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
List:
Not sure I want to spill the beans on a good thing, but I lease the hunk of
dirt my 40x30 hangar sits on for $187.00/year. That's life in God's
Country....NE Wisconsin.
DNA
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Riveting fuse skeleton
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
>
> I built the T-hangar myself but I lease the spot it sits on for $35 /
month.
> Oakdale, California. ( O27 )
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 panel wiring |
For those who have wired their panels, do you feel that wiring runs in the
subpanel area be run as low in the subpanel area as possible and thus be
easily accessable from underneath, as opposed to drilling holes in the
subpanel ribs and running wires. I have the top skin off so my first thought
is to just run the main runs thru the ribs but I'm not sure if this would be
such a good idea once the top skin is on.
Appreciate any recommendations and comments.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 panel and finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | great fuel deals |
With all this talk about fuel prices and stuff, I wanted to share this...I'm
sure most of you must already know about AirNav, but in case you don't:
http://www.airnav.com/fuel/greatdeals/pocket1.html
There's also a "find me the best deal closest to me" feature:
http://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html
)_( Dan
dan @ rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
100LL $2.19
Hangar $110 to $125 from the City. All are Tees with blacktop, electric
Overhead bifold doors, lights and one electric outlet and half wall
between stalls. Older hangars are less than the newer and possibly a
smaller but all can hold two RV's. Privately owned hangars are slightly
cheaper if and when available.
Dick DeCramer
Faribault Municipal Airport
40 Miles out of Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
I am NOT an engine guru but it sounds like you "may" have valve (s?)
sticking. Run it until it is hot and the condition is appearing and
then check compression. One cylinder colder than the others may be a
symptom of a sticking valve. Sometimes when a shorted magneto coil
heats up will then misfire causing this as well?
Good luck
Dick DeCramer
Shade tree mechanic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
We also had a similar problem on a C172 and it was a cracked exhaust valve
guide. Pull valve covers and look for black carbon buildup.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! |
What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
>
> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel
> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS
> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually
> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here?
>
> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and
> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost
> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am
> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it
> checked out, any other thoughts?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 panel wiring |
You can still get to everything pretty well underneath, as long as you don't
have the wires to high up on the sub panel. what I would do is make sure
you have everything right and wait until you start your engine. Then when
you know that all of your engine instruments are working, and so are your
avionics, then you can rivet the top skin on.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 panel wiring
>
> For those who have wired their panels, do you feel that wiring runs in the
> subpanel area be run as low in the subpanel area as possible and thus be
> easily accessable from underneath, as opposed to drilling holes in the
> subpanel ribs and running wires. I have the top skin off so my first
thought
> is to just run the main runs thru the ribs but I'm not sure if this would
be
> such a good idea once the top skin is on.
>
> Appreciate any recommendations and comments.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 panel and finish kit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Ferry flight |
Hi Art;
I'll call you tonight. I can probably do it the 2d
week in July...I have 800 RV hours, and a "couple of
hours" in other stuff too.
Rob Ray
--- art stavro wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: art stavro
>
>
> Are there any experienced RV4 pilots out there who
> might be interested
> in flying an RV from Virginis to California? If so
> call Art at 510 541
> 4979 Cell/510 278 0260 home..Art Stavro
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! |
Bob Barrows the man that rebuilt the engine said send the fuel injection
components to the manufacturer for check out.
We will do that. Just thought Id ask if there were any other ideas. I am
wondering if the capacitor in the Mag is getting hot and not working.
Hopefully Paul will get it al figured out soon.
I am flying to Hotlanta tomorrow, hope to fly the 8 Friday.
Dan
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
>What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM
>> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
>>
>>
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>>
>>
>> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel
>> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS
>> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually
>> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here?
>>
>> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and
>> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost
>> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am
>> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it
>> checked out, any other thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 Canopy for Sale |
I have a new RV-4 canopy for sale. It has never been
removed from the original shipping crate. It is the
grey tinted canopy, Vans part number C-401. Send an
email if you would like more info and some photos.
Thanks
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4
Houston, TX
Noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 Canopy for Sale |
I have a new RV-4 canopy for sale. It has never been
removed from the original shipping crate. It is the
grey tinted canopy, Vans part number C-401. Send an
email if you would like more info and some photos.
Thanks
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4
Houston, TX
Noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
I have the 70CM Sensenich prop with the usual Van's spinner and the Sensenich 2
1/4" spacer that goes onto the propflange w/flywheel on an O-320.
The problem (?) seems to be that the locating pins in the spacer are a very close
or even interference fit in the prop. Putting them together looks like a BFH
job (well, perhaps a nice soft rubber mallet instead) with little realistic
prospect of getting them apart again.
Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit somewhat
?? If the former, then it looks like just one opportunity to put the spinner
back plate in place before things are set in place almost permanently which will
make fitting the spinner a bit trickier. Nothing I can see in the archives
on this.
Jim Oke
RV-6A - endless tinkering stage
RV-3 - field too wet to fly !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landmark Birthday |
OK I'll guess:
You Can't Trust Any One Over 30 ???
Or:
Lordy Lordy Look Who's 40 ???
Or:
Nifty - How's it feel to be 50 ???
Whatever Age You Are - Or Want To Be!
Happy Birthday George
Don Eaves
A Sexy Senior Citizen Of 55 Years
Ana An RV Builder Who Sits On The Best Seats In The RV World!
doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Kuta" <greif10(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft operating costs |
Hello Jim,
I go thru Pestigo at least twice a month. Thats why I am looking
into flying north rather than driving. If you have an RV would you mind if
I could take a peak one day.
Reagards,
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
>
> List:
>
> Not sure I want to spill the beans on a good thing, but I lease the hunk
of
> dirt my 40x30 hangar sits on for $187.00/year. That's life in God's
> Country....NE Wisconsin.
>
> DNA
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> Riveting fuse skeleton
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Aircraft operating costs
>
>
>
> >
> > I built the T-hangar myself but I lease the spot it sits on for $35 /
> month.
> > Oakdale, California. ( O27 )
> >
> > --
> > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> > Network Administrator
> > Union Safe Deposit Bank
> > 209-946-5116
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul R. Antoinette" <antoinep(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | relocating elevator trim servo |
At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo
from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen
this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info.
Paul R. Antoinette
SGS1-26 N8672R #207
mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
I have the 70CM Sensenich prop with the usual Van's spinner and the
Sensenich 2 1/4" spacer that goes onto the propflange w/flywheel on an
O-320.
The problem (?) seems to be that the locating pins in the spacer are a very
close or even interference fit in the prop. Putting them together looks like
a BFH job (well, perhaps a nice soft rubber mallet instead) with little
realistic prospect of getting them apart again.
Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit
somewhat ?? If the former, then it looks like just one opportunity to put
the spinner back plate in place before things are set in place almost
permanently which will make fitting the spinner a bit trickier. Nothing I
can see in the archives on this.
Jim Oke
RV-6A - endless tinkering stage
RV-3 - field too wet to fly !
-------------------------------------
Hi Jim
It's a tight fit and thats the way it is supposed to be. You will have to
take it apart at least once when you make and rivet the filler plates in the
prop spinner cutout.
In assembly use a larger hammer and protect the aluminum with a block of
wood.
I made a wood cradel to support the prop shank and used a brass punch to
take it apart.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Kirby" <davewendi(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! |
I just solved the very same problem with my boat.
Turned out to be faulty plug wires. Worked fine when the engine was cold.
As the engine warmed up, maximum rpm slowly digressed from 4000 to 0 rpm.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
>
> Bob Barrows the man that rebuilt the engine said send the fuel injection
> components to the manufacturer for check out.
>
> We will do that. Just thought Id ask if there were any other ideas. I am
> wondering if the capacitor in the Mag is getting hot and not working.
>
> Hopefully Paul will get it al figured out soon.
>
> I am flying to Hotlanta tomorrow, hope to fly the 8 Friday.
>
> Dan
>
>
> >--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> >
> >What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer?
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators
> >> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM
> >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
> >>
> >>
> >> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
> >>
> >>
> >> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel
> >> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS
> >> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually
> >> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here?
> >>
> >> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and
> >> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost
> >> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am
> >> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it
> >> checked out, any other thoughts?
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating elevator trim servo |
>
>At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo
>from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen
>this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info.
>
>Paul R. Antoinette
>SGS1-26 N8672R #207
>mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net
>
That sounds like Warren Gretz. http://www.gretzaero.com/
info(at)gretzaero.com
Gretz Aero
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, Colorado 80121
Phone: 303-770-3811.
I've never seen his elevator trim mounting system, but I've got his
heated pitot mount, and it is a first class product.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur and Christine" <act1(at)reap.org.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
REAP-MailScanner: Found to be clean
Hi,
This is ment to be a tight fit, lot of info on it came with my Sensenich
prop. Info was with the prop logbook.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ??
>
> I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Narco 850 wiring diagram needed |
Listers,
One of my friends has a Narco 859 transponder with a 15 pin (as opposed
to the 25 pin) connector. He needs a wiring diagram for this unit. Can
anyone help? Please contact me off list.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Whitman" <wyvern1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
How about $2.95/gal for 100LL at BVY Beverly, MA
Tim Whitman
RV6 parted out after 600hrs, waiting for -10
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carroll Bird" <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs)
>
> Don't stop at Abilene Aero at ABI $2.79 per gallon. Carroll Bird
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
Thanks to George and Arthur. I thought the machine work on the prop and
spacer was rather too high in quality for the tight fit to be an accident. I
will proceed on the understanding that later separation of prop and spacer
is difficult but possible with care.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ??
>
>
> I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
>
> I have the 70CM Sensenich prop with the usual Van's spinner and the
> Sensenich 2 1/4" spacer that goes onto the propflange w/flywheel on an
> O-320.
>
> The problem (?) seems to be that the locating pins in the spacer are a
very
> close or even interference fit in the prop. Putting them together looks
like
> a BFH job (well, perhaps a nice soft rubber mallet instead) with little
> realistic prospect of getting them apart again.
>
> Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit
> somewhat ?? If the former, then it looks like just one opportunity to put
> the spinner back plate in place before things are set in place almost
> permanently which will make fitting the spinner a bit trickier. Nothing I
> can see in the archives on this.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A - endless tinkering stage
> RV-3 - field too wet to fly !
>
>
> -------------------------------------
>
> Hi Jim
>
> It's a tight fit and thats the way it is supposed to be. You will have to
> take it apart at least once when you make and rivet the filler plates in
the
> prop spinner cutout.
>
>
> In assembly use a larger hammer and protect the aluminum with a block of
> wood.
> I made a wood cradel to support the prop shank and used a brass punch to
> take it apart.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating elevator trim servo |
Try www.gretzaero.com
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul R. Antoinette" <antoinep(at)rmi.net>
Subject: RV-List: relocating elevator trim servo
>
> At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo
> from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen
> this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info.
>
> Paul R. Antoinette
> SGS1-26 N8672R #207
> mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
Jim,
George and Arthur were correct in their explanations. What we have here is
indeed, slight metal displacement when the spacer is first attached. You are
placing a .0502 pin in a .050 hole. It will be very tight the first time,
but it is fairly easy to remove and replace after that. The guys who have
friends with presses are the lucky ones!!!!!!!
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating elevator trim servo |
I got this set up on "Casper" almost a hundred hours and love it.
Garry
"Paul R. Antoinette" wrote:
>
> At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo
> from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen
> this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info.
>
> Paul R. Antoinette
> SGS1-26 N8672R #207
> mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I guess I must be in heaven.
I pay $110 a month for a nice 40x80 heated/air-conditioned hangar/shop, and it
is about 300 feet from where I am building our new home. I'm about a half-hour's
drive north of Indianapolis. We have 12 airplanes on our airpark (8I3, Glenndale
Airport), and fuel right now is $2.10 for the residents. Since we have
only a 1000 gallon tank, the price of fuel is considerably higher due to the
fact that we cannot take a tanker-full, which is 8000 gallons. You get a big
break if they can empty the tanker. I know a guy that owns an FBO at Winchester,
IN, and he sells 100LL for $1.80 a gallon. He has a 12,000 gallon tank which
gets him a little negotiating power, he can wait out spikes in fuel prices
and still have enough capacity for a tanker load. He told me he marks up the
fuel $.30/gal. I wish there were more aviation people around like him that
have a little more business sense--people go where the fuel is cheap. I know
other FBO owners that try to sell fuel for $2.80 a gallon and wonder why everybody
on their airport go elsewhere for fuel. DUH! We've been exploring the idea
of putting in a larger tank and credit card pump on our airport, if we could
find a tank setup that didn't cost a fortune.
Bob
RV-6 300+ hours
F1 under const.
> From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Gas/Hangar rent
>
>
> 100LL $2.19
> Hangar $110 to $125 from the City. All are Tees with
> blacktop, electric
> Overhead bifold doors, lights and one electric outlet and half wall
> between stalls. Older hangars are less than the newer and possibly a
> smaller but all can hold two RV's. Privately owned hangars
> are slightly
> cheaper if and when available.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> Faribault Municipal Airport
> 40 Miles out of Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating elevator trim servo |
Dear Paul,
Try www.gretzaero.com and look up their Elevator Trim System.
Cheers,
Konrad
> At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo
> from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen
> this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info.
>
> Paul R. Antoinette
> SGS1-26 N8672R #207
> mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! |
Is this a recent rebuild? Was the dry tappet clearance checked before first
run?
-----Original Message-----
From: TwoAviators [mailto:TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
Bob Barrows the man that rebuilt the engine said send the fuel injection
components to the manufacturer for check out.
We will do that. Just thought Id ask if there were any other ideas. I am
wondering if the capacitor in the Mag is getting hot and not working.
Hopefully Paul will get it al figured out soon.
I am flying to Hotlanta tomorrow, hope to fly the 8 Friday.
Dan
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
>What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM
>> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!!
>>
>>
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>>
>>
>> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel
>> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS
>> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually
>> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here?
>>
>> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and
>> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost
>> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am
>> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it
>> checked out, any other thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Carb rebuild manual |
Does anyone know where I could get a rebuild manual for the Marvel Schibler
carburetor MA4-SPA?
Thanks
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb rebuild manual |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Goto http://www.precisionairmotive.com click on aviation then carbs and then
support. Lots of information here.
Gary
Quoting Larry Hawkins :
>
> Does anyone know where I could get a rebuild manual for the Marvel
> Schibler
> carburetor MA4-SPA?
> Thanks
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, finishing.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
"aeroelectric-list"
| Subject: | Fw: air force using tablet PCs |
Listers,
The article at the link below shows that the Air Force "could be" monitoring
our homebuilt experimental movement [ grin ] . . . well, "is", in fact,
paralleling us in adopting "forward thinking" technological innovations in
the area of low cost, commercial off-the-shelf cockpit moving map+gps
gadgets. It's a good read.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Carter" [ my brother ]
Subject: air force using tablet PCs
>
http://computerworld.com/hardwaretopics/hardware/story/0,10801,71940,00.html
> ?nlid=PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb rebuild manual |
> Does anyone know where I could get a rebuild manual for the Marvel Schibler
> carburetor MA4-SPA?
On video & CD at Builder's Bookstore, in the powerplant/accessories section.
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb rebuild manual |
go to http://www.precisionairmotive.com/ and most everything is there
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hawkins" <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: RV-List: Carb rebuild manual
Does anyone know where I could get a rebuild manual for the Marvel Schibler
carburetor MA4-SPA?
Thanks
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
-Bill
RV-8A
http://vondane.com/rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
>
> Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
Ummm.... fuel gauge and a watch?
:) Just joking!
Hi Bill!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
FWF
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Orton <vorton(at)pacstates.com> |
| Subject: | Need Help Checking Out An RV7 Kit In Mississippi |
Is there anyone out there in Mississippi that could check out a
kit-in-progress for me? I'm trying to pick up an RV-7 project, but
cannot get there to check it out beforehand. I'd rather not buy it
COMPLETELY sight-unseen. Having another builder look it over first
would really help out.
We're arranging delivery for the weekend of June 22, so I'd like to get
it checked, say, before the 18th or 19th. Any help would be GREATLY
appreciated.
Any other ideas would be appreciated as well. (No digital camera
available)
Thanks,
-Vince
--
Vince Orton
About to start an RV-7A ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
Bill, here is the web page for one for $275. Fuel flow, Fuel Remaining, Low
fuel alarm, etc.
http://www.measureanything.com/products/AU4127/datasheet_fuel_flow_system.as
p
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
>
> Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
>
> Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
>
> -Bill
> RV-8A
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
> Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
> >
> > Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
>
>
Radio Shack sells a dual timer for about $10 that I've got velcroed to the
panel of my 6A. Among other functions it simultaneoulsy shows two
count-down timers.
As part of my pre-flight I stick each tank, compute for 9 gph and set the
proper time on each display. Fly off the left tank, the left timer runs;
right tank - right timer. I find it accurate and dependable knowing for
example that I've got 55 minutes in one tank and 1:20 in the other.
If you want to be conservative, compute for 9.5 gph. Then you'll always have
a little more gas than you thought you did.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Need Help Checking Out An RV7 Kit In Mississippi |
Vince,
What part of Mississippi? I'm in the souther part near Biloxi.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
<>
<>
Any other ideas would be appreciated as well. (No digital camera
available)
Thanks,
-Vince
--
Vince Orton
About to start an RV-7A ...
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Bill,
Check out http://www.boatfix.com/elec/standgps.asp ; look towards the bottom of
the page. D. Walsh has one of these in his 6A and it works great.
Gary
Quoting Bill VonDane :
>
> Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
>
> Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
>
> -Bill
> RV-8A
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
Gary...
Do you get everything for $192 or do you have to buy the things below as
well?
-Bill
----Original Message Follows----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:12:13 -0600 (MDT)
Bill,
Check out http://www.boatfix.com/elec/standgps.asp ; look towards the bottom
of
the page. D. Walsh has one of these in his 6A and it works great.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
I recently installed this gauge in my -6A too, between the selector and the
electric pump. It updates every second and jumps around .2-.3 gph. I am
still trying to calibrate it, unfortunately it is on the optimistic side.
It seems to be under 2 gallons off over a whole tank. Unexplicably it jumps
1 gph when the fuel pump is switched on. Being a marine instrument the cable
is like 24' long! Someone told me they bought the same instrument for $130.
I don't know if installing it in the pressurized portion of the line would
help. It says not to, but Benua had to install his(Matronics) that way to
make it accurate. I would try this but it is a bunch more work and more
holes in the firewall. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
>
> Bill, here is the web page for one for $275. Fuel flow, Fuel Remaining,
Low
> fuel alarm, etc.
>
>
http://www.measureanything.com/products/AU4127/datasheet_fuel_flow_system.as
> p
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW
> Matthews, NC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
>
>
> >
> > Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
> >
> > Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
> >
> > -Bill
> > RV-8A
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
ez(at)sensenich.com
Thanks to all for your comments. As is the way with many things, the job
turned out to be quite easy when I finally tackled it.. Two carefully placed
blocks of wood and about 6 hits with a 3 lb. deadblow hammer, and the deed
was done. Haven't try to separate the two as yet and may not have to
depending on how the rest of the spinner goes.
Cheers, Jim Oke
YWG, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ??
>
> Thanks to George and Arthur. I thought the machine work on the prop and
> spacer was rather too high in quality for the tight fit to be an accident.
I
> will proceed on the understanding that later separation of prop and spacer
> is difficult but possible with care.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ??
>
>
> >
> >
> > I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
> >
> > I have the 70CM Sensenich prop with the usual Van's spinner and the
> > Sensenich 2 1/4" spacer that goes onto the propflange w/flywheel on an
> > O-320.
> >
> > The problem (?) seems to be that the locating pins in the spacer are a
> very
> > close or even interference fit in the prop. Putting them together looks
> like
> > a BFH job (well, perhaps a nice soft rubber mallet instead) with little
> > realistic prospect of getting them apart again.
> >
> > Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit
> > somewhat ?? If the former, then it looks like just one opportunity to
put
> > the spinner back plate in place before things are set in place almost
> > permanently which will make fitting the spinner a bit trickier. Nothing
I
> > can see in the archives on this.
> >
> > Jim Oke
> > RV-6A - endless tinkering stage
> > RV-3 - field too wet to fly !
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> >
> > Hi Jim
> >
> > It's a tight fit and thats the way it is supposed to be. You will have
to
> > take it apart at least once when you make and rivet the filler plates in
> the
> > prop spinner cutout.
> >
> >
> > In assembly use a larger hammer and protect the aluminum with a block of
> > wood.
> > I made a wood cradel to support the prop shank and used a brass punch to
> > take it apart.
> >
> > George McNutt
> > Langley B.C.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
$2.95 ???
That's Airway Robbery!
You got'sda move yourself to New Mexico, and fill 'er up for around 2 Bucks!
KLW
Dew Knot R-kyv!
> How about $2.95/gal for 100LL at BVY Beverly, MA
>
> Tim Whitman
> RV6 parted out after 600hrs, waiting for -10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
I think Matt probably has the best deal in town.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
>
> Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
>
> Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
>
> -Bill
> RV-8A
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phat Phil <phugoid(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
Use never seize when you assemble it. It will help with disassembly.
Phil
Jim Oke wrote:
>
>Thanks to George and Arthur. I thought the machine work on the prop and
>spacer was rather too high in quality for the tight fit to be an accident. I
>will proceed on the understanding that later separation of prop and spacer
>is difficult but possible with care.
>
>Jim
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ??
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm currently doing the spinner and prop on my -6A.
>>
>>I have the 70CM Sensenich prop with the usual Van's spinner and the
>>Sensenich 2 1/4" spacer that goes onto the propflange w/flywheel on an
>>O-320.
>>
>>The problem (?) seems to be that the locating pins in the spacer are a
>>
>very
>
>>close or even interference fit in the prop. Putting them together looks
>>
>like
>
>>a BFH job (well, perhaps a nice soft rubber mallet instead) with little
>>realistic prospect of getting them apart again.
>>
>>Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit
>>somewhat ?? If the former, then it looks like just one opportunity to put
>>the spinner back plate in place before things are set in place almost
>>permanently which will make fitting the spinner a bit trickier. Nothing I
>>can see in the archives on this.
>>
>>Jim Oke
>>RV-6A - endless tinkering stage
>>RV-3 - field too wet to fly !
>>
>>
>>-------------------------------------
>>
>>Hi Jim
>>
>>It's a tight fit and thats the way it is supposed to be. You will have to
>>take it apart at least once when you make and rivet the filler plates in
>>
>the
>
>>prop spinner cutout.
>>
>>
>>In assembly use a larger hammer and protect the aluminum with a block of
>>wood.
>>I made a wood cradel to support the prop shank and used a brass punch to
>>take it apart.
>>
>>George McNutt
>>Langley B.C.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Connell" <connellj(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
Listers! The Fuel flow device previously mentioned [Horizon], is
manufactured in New Zealand [Navman],& is fitted as OEM on most Jabiru
aircraft built in Australia...seems reliable in that application.
Transducer is a bit minimal though,probably not comparable quality to
Flowscan unit.. Price here in Oz,with transducer approx. $160 USD. cheers!
James Connell
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
>
> Gary...
>
> Do you get everything for $192 or do you have to buy the things below as
> well?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:12:13 -0600 (MDT)
>
>
> Bill,
>
> Check out http://www.boatfix.com/elec/standgps.asp ; look towards the
bottom
> of
> the page. D. Walsh has one of these in his 6A and it works great.
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
After looking at several aircraft salvage websites, I've got some questions
of the group. What would an acceptable runout be? I see several in the
.002 all the way to .074 (rattles).
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 emp. complete, wings due tomorrow
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
Can someone tell me if there is a cure to the rash caused by the dust
from my wheel pants. I'm absolutely sure this is the cause because it
only affected two to three inches above my shoes. A rash began within
two hours. After a few days, it began to itch. Now after six (6) weeks
it is itching more than ever.
The first application of Hydrocortisone relieved the itch for a
week. Now, it is only effective for a day. Sure would appreciate a
remedy.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Barnes -6 wrapping it up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
-----Original Message-----
From: D.H.Kirkwood [mailto:204dk(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:56 AM
To: gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca
Subject: Lean Too
George,
I have a new 032 that I have been breaking in, about 30 hrs, and can't
seem to keep the temperature down on climb out and feel I am running on the
hot side during cruise.
----- was wondering what temps, EGT & CHT you were running before & after
your fix. If I climb out at 500 to 700 FPM & 120 MPH, I go to about 440 deg
on #3 in a 1000' of climb and need to level out. At 6500' cruise and an
outside temp of 75 deg I was running 406 on #3 at 65% power and 420 to 427
at 75% power. EGT on the same cyl was in the 1400 deg range during these
test. Been through all the baffle checks, even re-did them just to be
certain.
Talked to Van's last and they think my Jet nozzle needs to be replaced or
drilled out. I have a 10-5217 carb that they said has a 828 jet and
recommended going to a #773. Their alternate suggestion was that I insert a
# drill in the existing jet to determine the size and then drill it out two
additional # sizes, try it and I may need to drill further. I was wondering
if talked to Van's about your problem and if you first attempted to replace
your jet.
Dennis Kirkwood
Brighton, Michigan
[George McNutt]
Hi Dennis
I am not a great believer in EGT's so I only have a good digital Cyl Head
Temp gauge on my aircraft. Since drilling out the carb jet twice, from #42
drill size to #38 then #36 my cylinder temperatures have dropped from 20 to
30 degrees Farenheit in climb & cruise.
The best way to tell how lean your engine is running is to see what the
temperatures do when you lean it out at altitude, getting up up to 7 - 8
thousand feet will make it easier to see the changes.
You are looking for your temperatures to increase with leaning, peak and
then decrease. If you are already lean you will not see much increase. If
you are really lean like I was (beyond peak temps) you will see only a
decrease in temps.
Without leaning a normal engine should be running rich with the mixture
control in, as you lean, temperatures both CHT and EGT should increase,
also power should increase, if you have a fixed pitch prop you want to see a
increase in rpm.
(Reference the graph on page 3.8 of the Lycoming 0-360 operators manual)
On a rich running engine you could see the CHT increase by up to 80 deg F.
(mine now rises 25 Deg)
EGT could increase by up to 400 F and power increase by 5%. before
starting to decrease.
As you continue to (very slowly) lean past the max power range first the
power (RPM) will start to decrease, then CHT and lastly EGT this is into the
best economy range power and not something you want for takeoff & initial
climb..
With the carb jet at the initial #42 drill size my engine was runnining
on the lean side of peak power, as soon as I started leaning the temperature
(CHT) immediately dropped, also I had no increase in RPM. When drilled to #
38 it seemed to be very slightly on the rich side of peak power, I could get
a 5 degree increase in CHT but no increase in power (RPM).
When drilled #36 I now see a 25 degree CHT rise and a 50 RPM increase in
power. I am satisfied with that.
Hope that helps, I will also post this to the RV-List for others who may
have this problem.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop & Spacer - Tight Fit ?? |
In a message dated 6/12/2002 9:16:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, wjoke(at)shaw.ca
writes:
> Is this the expected fit or is some action needed to "improve" the fit
> somewhat
Jim,
I have the 72FM Sensenich prop for an 0-360 and mine was a tight
interference fit as yours is. Those pins need to transfer all of the thrust
pulses of a Lycoming without getting loose. I think they have to be a tight
fit.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine runout. |
Hi Dana:
The max allowable when new is .002 and the max service limit is .005.
Eustace Bowhay-Blind Bay, B.C. Rigging flaps and ailerons and installing
wing tips on the 6A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine runout.
>
> After looking at several aircraft salvage websites, I've got some
questions
> of the group. What would an acceptable runout be? I see several in the
> .002 all the way to .074 (rattles).
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 emp. complete, wings due tomorrow
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Fabian Lefler
Subject: Compressor-Tool Bench
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FLEFLER@broward.org.06.13.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kevin
Subject: Langley, BC RV Fly-in
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.06.13.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Browsing Feature! |
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature
of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet
Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List
Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any
given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that
have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject,
Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads.
A number of List members have written to say that they love the List
Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout
the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the
Digest issue to come out.
You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and
clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
I became alergic to the epoxy resin while building one of the other kind of
planes and could not finish it ... my hands would break out and itch very
badly just from the smell of the epoxy.
Doctors told me the cure was to stay away from it !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
08:08:36 AM
I get the same thing if I get careless. Ya got to keep it off you. But
since its too late, I like to use that alloe stuff they have for sunburns.
The rash takes a while to go away. I don't remember it lasting six weeks
though. You musta did it up real good Tom. Sorry I don't have anything
better.
Eric
"Tom Barnes" (at)matronics.com on 06/13/2002 08:04:18 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust
Can someone tell me if there is a cure to the rash caused by the dust
from my wheel pants. I'm absolutely sure this is the cause because it
only affected two to three inches above my shoes. A rash began within
two hours. After a few days, it began to itch. Now after six (6) weeks
it is itching more than ever.
The first application of Hydrocortisone relieved the itch for a
week. Now, it is only effective for a day. Sure would appreciate a
remedy.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Barnes -6 wrapping it up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Canopy Skirt |
Fitted the canopy skirt yesterday,and a surprisingly good fit. Has anybody
tried to use heat from a heat gun, not a hair dryer ,to tweak the fit a
little better.
Chris S RV8 80881
Festus,MO
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
A purely experimental and speculative approach:
Assuming the irritating particles causing the reaction are still lodged in the
skin, you might try to sweat them out. Do you have a sauna nearby? Otherwise,
maybe wrapping them in plastic and running or other heavy exercise of the
legs.
Finn
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> I get the same thing if I get careless. Ya got to keep it off you. But
> since its too late, I like to use that alloe stuff they have for sunburns.
> The rash takes a while to go away. I don't remember it lasting six weeks
> though. You musta did it up real good Tom. Sorry I don't have anything
> better.
>
> Eric
>
> "Tom Barnes" (at)matronics.com on 06/13/2002 08:04:18 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To:
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust
>
>
> Can someone tell me if there is a cure to the rash caused by the dust
> from my wheel pants. I'm absolutely sure this is the cause because it
> only affected two to three inches above my shoes. A rash began within
> two hours. After a few days, it began to itch. Now after six (6) weeks
> it is itching more than ever.
> The first application of Hydrocortisone relieved the itch for a
> week. Now, it is only effective for a day. Sure would appreciate a
> remedy.
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom Barnes -6 wrapping it up.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I don't know. I know Walsh paid about 365.00 and got the whole thing. Almost
seems to good to be true at 192. A phone call would answer the question
Gary
Quoting Bill VonDane :
>
> Gary...
>
> Do you get everything for $192 or do you have to buy the things below as
>
> well?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow...
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:12:13 -0600 (MDT)
>
>
> Bill,
>
> Check out http://www.boatfix.com/elec/standgps.asp ; look towards the
> bottom
> of
> the page. D. Walsh has one of these in his 6A and it works great.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | Barnard landing light for RV6 |
Is anyone making a landing light exactly like the one Barnard use to
make for an RV6? I need one for my
RV6 project.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping costs |
Mine cost about the same to North Carolina. It's my understanding that the
contents of the finish kit are classified differently from ABF's point of view.
More fragile, I guess, with the canopy in there than the other kits. Thus
more expensive.
-Larry
First cut on the canopy last night ....
--- Jeff Point wrote:
>
> ABF Freightways called yesterday to make shipping arrangements for my finish
> kit next week. The costs to ship to Milwaukee WI from Van's is $330, which
> is more than twice what the fuse or wing kits (with two boxes!) cost. Would
> anyone who has had a finish kit shipped in the last year or so please
> contact me off list. I'd like specifically to know how much it cost, where
> it was shipped to, who the freight company was, and if it was delivered to
> your house or picked up at their dock.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 N187CF, finish kit coming!
> Milwaukee WI
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping costs |
My finish kit was shipped to Biloxi, Mississippi and i picked it up at the
dock. The cost was $392.00 I agree with Larry that it must be classified
as more fragile. It was also the largest box as I could barely fit it in my
trailer.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shipping costs
>
> Mine cost about the same to North Carolina. It's my understanding that
the
> contents of the finish kit are classified differently from ABF's point of
view.
> More fragile, I guess, with the canopy in there than the other kits.
Thus
> more expensive.
>
> -Larry
> First cut on the canopy last night ....
>
>
> --- Jeff Point wrote:
> >
> > ABF Freightways called yesterday to make shipping arrangements for my
finish
> > kit next week. The costs to ship to Milwaukee WI from Van's is $330,
which
> > is more than twice what the fuse or wing kits (with two boxes!) cost.
Would
> > anyone who has had a finish kit shipped in the last year or so please
> > contact me off list. I'd like specifically to know how much it cost,
where
> > it was shipped to, who the freight company was, and if it was delivered
to
> > your house or picked up at their dock.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6 N187CF, finish kit coming!
> > Milwaukee WI
>
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
Does that mean you can't even fly in a plastic airplane?
Earl, RV4
Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I became alergic to the epoxy resin while building one of the other kind of
> planes and could not finish it ... my hands would break out and itch very
> badly just from the smell of the epoxy.
>
> Doctors told me the cure was to stay away from it !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
> Hooking up systems
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | RV-6 panel wiring |
Gary,
Do whatever you can to make access easier after installation of the top
skin. Having the wire bundles lower is probably a good idea. Use nutplates
for anything attached to the ribs. Use only Phillips screws (or square/torx
drive), not slotted. Use Molex or Mate-N-Loc connectors for items that may
need to be replaced or removed. Etc. .......
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 15 hours
For those who have wired their panels, do you feel that wiring runs in the
subpanel area be run as low in the subpanel area as possible and thus be
easily accessable from underneath, as opposed to drilling holes in the
subpanel ribs and running wires. I have the top skin off so my first thought
is to just run the main runs thru the ribs but I'm not sure if this would be
such a good idea once the top skin is on.
Appreciate any recommendations and comments.
Gary Gunn
RV-6 panel and finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping costs |
I had my finish kit shipped to the ABF terminal in Nashville, TN. The cost, as
best as I can remember, was $320. Point being, you can save some "Jack" by picking
up your "box" at the terminal. (somewhere I heard as much as 30%)
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shipping costs
My finish kit was shipped to Biloxi, Mississippi and i picked it up at the
dock. The cost was $392.00 I agree with Larry that it must be classified
as more fragile. It was also the largest box as I could barely fit it in my
trailer.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shipping costs
>
> Mine cost about the same to North Carolina. It's my understanding that
the
> contents of the finish kit are classified differently from ABF's point
of
view.
> More fragile, I guess, with the canopy in there than the other kits.
Thus
> more expensive.
>
> -Larry
> First cut on the canopy last night ....
>
>
> --- Jeff Point wrote:
> >
> > ABF Freightways called yesterday to make shipping arrangements for my
finish
> > kit next week. The costs to ship to Milwaukee WI from Van's is $330,
which
> > is more than twice what the fuse or wing kits (with two boxes!) cost.
Would
> > anyone who has had a finish kit shipped in the last year or so please
> > contact me off list. I'd like specifically to know how much it cost,
where
> > it was shipped to, who the freight company was, and if it was delivered
to
> > your house or picked up at their dock.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6 N187CF, finish kit coming!
> > Milwaukee WI
>
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Lean Too |
I am interested in the concept George introduces here; anyone care to weigh
in on this idea, that CHT is more useful for leaning than EGT? I know in my
RV (fully digitally instrumented for all 4 cylinders with EGT and CHT) that
CHT response time is far too slow to be convenient for leaning. I also feel
that CHT depends on too many other variables (distribution of cooling air
flow, ambient air temp and airspeed) to be of use here. If George is right,
however, we are spending perhaps far too much on needless EGT
instrumentation.
In my daily aircraft operations, I reference the CHT only on the ground
before takeoff (200 degree minimum temp) and during extended hot-weather
climbs. I occasionally look at it during descents, but I never like what it
is telling me (far in excess of 3 allowable Fahrenheit degrees per minute of
"shock cooling"), so I usually ignore the numbers there. Oh, yes, and I
_used_ to look at CHT's when I was trying to balance the cooling air with air
dams in the cowl; now that I have achieved that, I'm almost totally focused
on oil and exhaust temps for normal operations. I don't think I'm alone in
this, but I'm interested in what the rest of the list community thinks - this
really intrigues me.
-Bill B
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> I am not a great believer in EGT's so I only have a good digital Cyl Head
> Temp gauge on my aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
>
> > Is there a relatively inexspensive fuel flow system out there for me?
> >
> > Remember, I am cheap AND broke...
>
>
>Ummm.... fuel gauge and a watch?
What is the fuel gauge for??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine runout. |
>
>After looking at several aircraft salvage websites, I've got some questions
>of the group. What would an acceptable runout be? I see several in the
>.002 all the way to .074 (rattles).
I may have reported this before - an old timer told me that runout can be
corrected easily with a sledge hammer. So, the low runout you get may have
been hammered. :-(
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow... |
>
>Listers! The Fuel flow device previously mentioned [Horizon], is
I wonder if this is the same HORIZON that our tech counselor was railing
about a few weeks ago. He got so mad telling me of his anguish with this
company that I worried for his health!
Apparently the unit didn't work and neither did the replacement and the
company was rude and unhelpful.
Aircraft is a Dan Rhin??? Summat like that.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 panel wiring |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I ran all of mine under the 668 to the firewall. I started ddrilling
holes & pulled them out so I can re-wire later if needed.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
>
> For those who have wired their panels, do you feel that wiring runs
> in the
> subpanel area be run as low in the subpanel area as possible and
> thus be
> easily accessable from underneath, as opposed to drilling holes in
> the
> subpanel ribs and running wires. I have the top skin off so my first
> thought
> is to just run the main runs thru the ribs but I'm not sure if this
> would be
> such a good idea once the top skin is on.
>
> Appreciate any recommendations and comments.
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 panel and finish kit.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Skirt |
Chris,
We used a heat gun and it worked well, just take your time.
As a side note: we found the best way to drill the canopy (to minimize
cracking possibility was to use a # 40 drill bit and then open up the hole
with the samll Unibit) This method grabs much less than even plastic drill
bits.
We then attached the canopy to the frame and skrit to the canopy with Semi
weld (same thing as pro-seal) froma caulking type tube that is premixed thru
the nozzle and everything is held in place with 4-6 keeper AACQ pop rivets.
This system is used by Pitts and Christen Eagles. The nice thing is you get
a nice finish, that is paintable and while firm has some flexibility to
prevent cracking later on.
Hope this helps.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Flying)
>From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
>Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:16:27 +0000
>
>
>Fitted the canopy skirt yesterday,and a surprisingly good fit. Has anybody
>tried to use heat from a heat gun, not a hair dryer ,to tweak the fit a
>little better.
>
>Chris S RV8 80881
>Festus,MO
>
>
>http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Bedell" <bedelk(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | XDP4000X-List: unhappy |
All-
I hooked up my xdp-4000x and it sounds like crap. I ordered the necessary cable
from online and tried to tune it, but it just got worse. Is there something missing
htat I need to do to get it to work. When I bypass it with rca splitters
the res of my system works like a charm. I have the 6001ES running three 10'
ES subs. Then 2 1805 ES's handling everything else. Aside from the problems with
the 4x, there is a huge disparity between cd volume and radio volume. I mean
huge!!!. I can max out radio volume and it sounds ok, then pop in a cd and
half way blows mee out of the cab. Any ideas, I anm just so dissapointed right
now....
From: Matt Dralle <DRALLE(at)MATRONICS.COM>
Reply-To: xdp4000x-list(at)matronics.com
To: Email-Lists(at)matronics.com
Subject: XDP4000X-List: List Browsing Feature!
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:52:33 -0700
-- XDP4000X-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature
of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet
Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List
Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any
given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that
have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject,
Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads.
A number of List members have written to say that they love the List
Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout
the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the
Digest issue to come out.
You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and
clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Lean Too |
I wondered about that also. There are to many other variables that
influence CHT. EGT is the standard for setting mixture. While EGT numbers
can very depending on outside conditions they are still the most reliable
indicator of engine power performance. I am not sure why George said he
does not trust it. George care to comment?
Jerry S
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I am interested in the concept George introduces here; anyone care to weigh
> in on this idea, that CHT is more useful for leaning than EGT? I know in my
> RV (fully digitally instrumented for all 4 cylinders with EGT and CHT) that
> CHT response time is far too slow to be convenient for leaning. I also feel
> that CHT depends on too many other variables (distribution of cooling air
> flow, ambient air temp and airspeed) to be of use here. If George is right,
> however, we are spending perhaps far too much on needless EGT
> instrumentation.
>
>
> -Bill B
>
> gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
>
> > I am not a great believer in EGT's so I only have a good digital Cyl Head
> > Temp gauge on my aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass |
Use a squeezer and very soft rivets (sometimes called Tack rivets) or 3/32"
aluminum pop rivets.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
How do you rivet nutplates to fiberglass?
I'm attaching the wing tip lens with #6 screws and nutplates but don't
want to risk cracking the fiberglass with the rivet gun.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Skirt |
Tom,
I think this is just the kind of information that should be in the archives,
so I'm responding with the DNA edited out.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
>
> Chris,
> When I fit the right side I was not pleased with the fit and thought about
a
> heat gun. I then fit the left side and it fit so well I decided to refit
the
> right. I worked from the back as per plan and made sure that the canopy
> stayed perfectly still in place. If you don't make sure, sometimes the
front
> will try to lift if you have'nt yet installed the hold down bolts. The
> second fit went great and now it's hard to get a peice of paper between
the
> skirt and the fuse when the canopy is locked closed. Good Luck.
> Tom in Ky.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
>
>
> >
> >
> > Fitted the canopy skirt yesterday,and a surprisingly good fit. Has
> anybody
> > tried to use heat from a heat gun, not a hair dryer ,to tweak the fit a
> > little better.
> >
> > Chris S RV8 80881
> > Festus,MO
> >
> >
> > http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
"Remember, I am cheap AND broke..."
Bill I can only admire you for sharing my own personal beliefs.
Rob
RV9A fuse N919RV resvd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: XDP4000X-List: unhappy |
Keith;
What is a XDP4000X? Wow, alot of Electrons flowing
in that last message...Did you contact the
manufacturer? Cheer up, as far as I know, XDP4000X
doesn't have anything to do with the airplanes flight
qualities...
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Keith Bedell wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Keith Bedell"
>
>
>
>
All-
>
I hooked up my xdp-4000x and it sounds like
> crap. I ordered the necessary cable from online and
> tried to tune it, but it just got worse. Is there
> something missing htat I need to do to get it to
> work. When I bypass it with rca splitters the res of
> my system works like a charm. I have the 6001ES
> running three 10' ES subs. Then 2 1805 ES's handling
> everything else. Aside from the problems with the
> 4x, there is a huge disparity between cd volume and
> radio volume. I mean huge!!!. I can max out
> radio volume and it sounds ok, then pop in a cd and
> half way blows mee out of the cab. Any ideas, I anm
> just so dissapointed right now....
>
> From: Matt Dralle
>
> Reply-To: xdp4000x-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: Email-Lists(at)matronics.com
> Subject: XDP4000X-List: List Browsing
> Feature!
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:52:33 -0700
>
>
> -- XDP4000X-List message posted
> by: Matt Dralle
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I thought I'd post a little reminder
> to everyone about a very slick feature
> of the email Lists here at Matronics.
> You can now use Netscape or Internet
> Explorer to browse the current
> messages on your favorite List! The List
> Browse Function tracks the current 7
> day's worth of List messages for any
> given List. Indexes are updated every
> 30 minutes with new messages that
> have been posted. You can resort the
> message indexes by Thread, Subject,
> Author, or Date and easily track and
> find current threads.
>
> A number of List members have written
> to say that they love the List
> Browser because they can keep tabs on
> the latest List messages throughout
> the day without having to constantly
> check their email or wait for the
> Digest issue to come out.
>
> You can check out the List Browse
> Feature by going to the following URL and
> clicking on the List of your choice:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box
> 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F |
> dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW |
> Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting top of dashboard |
| From: | bertrv6(at)juno.com |
Hal:
In one of Bengelliss books, there is a clear drawing, and ideas on this
Do not remember which book," Sport Plane Bulding,"' maybe
Bert
rv6a
Do N0t Arcchive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shielded wire how.. |
| From: | bertrv6(at)juno.com |
Hello:
Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
trick
to do it right...
Appreciate the suggestions on this....
Bert
rv6a
started wiring...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
Try using a soft toothbrush type wire brush!
Wayne
Alexandria, LA
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
> Hello:
>
> Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
> wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
>
> I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> trick
> to do it right...
>
> Appreciate the suggestions on this....
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
> started wiring...
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
Use a solder sleeve is the easiset thing to do. You trim about a 1/4"
section of the insulation, slide a solder sleeve over it with a piece of
wire inside, and run a heat gun over it. There you have a wire that is
soldered to the shielding and is tough as nails. Works much better than the
pigtail method.
You can get solder sleeves from TerminalTown. Check this link out:
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page73.html
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
> Hello:
>
> Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
> wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
>
> I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> trick
> to do it right...
>
> Appreciate the suggestions on this....
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
> started wiring...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
Take a magic marker and mark the mesh where you want the inner wire to come
out. Push back the mesh. Open a hole in the mesh at your mark with a
pencil. Double back the inner wire and make the end come out the hole in the
mesh. Pull the inner wire out. Pull mesh back out to close everything back
to normal. Twist the mesh and crimp a connector on the end of the mesh.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
Hello:
Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
trick
to do it right...
Appreciate the suggestions on this....
Bert
rv6a
started wiring...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Broken Mag Distributor Gear |
Just Broke my third mag distributor gear on a Bendix S4LN-20 Mag in 480
Hours. It happens on climbout.
Just curious if anyone else out there with an O-360, Bendix mag on the
right side, and Sensenich Metal prop have had any similar problems.
I have re-shimmed the mag etc to remove all end play/bearing looseness.
Drive Gears look good etc.
I have heard that on some engine/prop combinations there is a flexible
coupling used on the right mag to prevent gear oscillations. If anyone
has more information on this or insight on such a problem please let me
know.
I Know, I Know; It is high time I had an electronic ignition on the
right side anyway.
Thanks
Tom Olson
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Skirt |
Steve when you put the D-N-A in your reply that again keeps it from the
archive. :) so I edited it out of your reply.
Jerry Springer
Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
>
> Tom,
>
> I think this is just the kind of information that should be in the archives,
> so I'm responding with the --- edited out.
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 Fuse
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
>
> >
> > Chris,
> > When I fit the right side I was not pleased with the fit and thought about
> a
> > heat gun. I then fit the left side and it fit so well I decided to refit
> the
> > right. I worked from the back as per plan and made sure that the canopy
> > stayed perfectly still in place. If you don't make sure, sometimes the
> front
> > will try to lift if you have'nt yet installed the hold down bolts. The
> > second fit went great and now it's hard to get a peice of paper between
> the
> > skirt and the fuse when the canopy is locked closed. Good Luck.
> > Tom in Ky.
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Fitted the canopy skirt yesterday,and a surprisingly good fit. Has
> > anybody
> > > tried to use heat from a heat gun, not a hair dryer ,to tweak the fit a
> > > little better.
> > >
> > > Chris S RV8 80881
> > > Festus,MO
> > >
> > >
> > > http://www.hotmail.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | DNA (was RV8 Canopy Skirt) |
I'm fairly certain you are wrong on that. Only the string "do not
archive" works. Do a search in the archives for DNA. I got 174 hits.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jerry Springer
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 8:51 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
>
>
>
> Steve when you put the D-N-A in your reply that again keeps
> it from the
> archive. :) so I edited it out of your reply.
>
> Jerry Springer
>
> Stephen Johnson wrote:
> >
> > -->
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > I think this is just the kind of information that should be in the
> > archives, so I'm responding with the --- edited out.
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> > RV-8 Fuse
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
> >
> > > -->
> > >
> > > Chris,
> > > When I fit the right side I was not pleased with the fit
> and thought
> > > about
> > a
> > > heat gun. I then fit the left side and it fit so well I
> decided to
> > > refit
> > the
> > > right. I worked from the back as per plan and made sure that the
> > > canopy stayed perfectly still in place. If you don't make sure,
> > > sometimes the
> > front
> > > will try to lift if you have'nt yet installed the hold
> down bolts.
> > > The second fit went great and now it's hard to get a
> peice of paper
> > > between
> > the
> > > skirt and the fuse when the canopy is locked closed.
> Good Luck. Tom
> > > in Ky.
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Skirt
> > >
> > >
> > > > -->
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Fitted the canopy skirt yesterday,and a surprisingly good fit.
> > > > Has
> > > anybody
> > > > tried to use heat from a heat gun, not a hair dryer ,to
> tweak the
> > > > fit a little better.
> > > >
> > > > Chris S RV8 80881
> > > > Festus,MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie Hazlewood" <rv4les(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
Sir If you do indeed have a alerigic reaction, by all means stop and get
help to finish up your F-glass. The best thing you can do before working
with the nasty stuff is: Cover your arms and ankles with baby powder. When
your done take as cold a shower you can stand. If you take a hot one, the
pores of your skin will open up and swallow the particles causing you more
greif.
>From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust
>Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:57:18 -0400
>
>
>Does that mean you can't even fly in a plastic airplane?
>Earl, RV4
>
>Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I became alergic to the epoxy resin while building one of the other kind
>of
> > planes and could not finish it ... my hands would break out and itch
>very
> > badly just from the smell of the epoxy.
> >
> > Doctors told me the cure was to stay away from it !!
> >
> > Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
> > Hooking up systems
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Mag Distributor Gear |
There is a Lycoming Service Instruction, # 1436, which deals with just this
problem on 0-360-A3A series engines. I can fax you the actual Service
Instruction if you wish, just contact me off list.
Garry "Casper"
tcolson wrote:
>
> Just Broke my third mag distributor gear on a Bendix S4LN-20 Mag in 480
> Hours. It happens on climbout.
> Snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
In a message dated 6/14/2002 4:06:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bertrv6(at)juno.com writes:
> Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
> wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
>
> I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> trick
> to do it right.
I agree with Paul Besing that the solder sleeve way of shield termination is
best, but it only works with good quality wire with an insulation that is
high temp resistant. We'll assume that you already know this and are using
shielded Tefzel wire.
You can almost duplicate the results of the solder sleeve by using just
solder and shrink sleeving. Cut the shielding back but don't tease it out so
that you have about 1/4" of intact braided shielding laying over the
insulated primary wire. Just flood solder over the shielding to stabilize
it. Then lay a stripped wire adjacent to the shielding and lap solder it.
Install shrink sleeving.
A solder sleeve is essentially a solder ring with a shrink sleeve but has the
additional benefit of a meltable sealing ring at both ends to render the
final joint water proof. You need a good heat gun to fire off some of them,
or use a lighter and just keep the sleeve in the flame, not above it.
I have loads of these sleeves in all sizes and will give to you free if you
stop by LVK.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 525hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell C/S Prop AD IMPORTANT! not rv related |
>
> I received an AD on my PA28R-180 for the Hartzell constant speed prop. I
> have
> been told by another pilot there is a free or half cost replacement
> program for
> the prop hub effected, but you must call Hartzell product support in
> Pique, Ohio
> to register before June 1, 02 to be included in this program. I called
> product
> support around 10 AM today and was told the AD applied only to the 540
> engine
> and aerobatic engines. The AD I received from the FAA looks like it
> applies to
> my IO-360 even tho Hartzell says it does not. Does anyone know for sure?
Earl and List:
I would suggest that anyone interested in having this AD done go to the
Hartzell site and read the Service Bulletin.
It is somewhat difficult to understand particularly when it comes to which
applications are effected. My interpretation after reading it and talking
to Hartzell was that it applied to aerobatic operations and not a specific
engine or aircraft.
(There are some specific turbo prop aircraft models that are also effected.)
At any rate I did take advantage of their offer. A complete overhaul was
$1440 at a shop in GA. This includes the free hub, blade reconditioning and
a new zero time log book.
To install the overhauled prop, the spinner aft bulkhead will have to be
relieved to clear the larger hub casting (fairly simple job) the front
bulkhead will have to be replaced or have the spinner attach nut plates
moved as re-assembly of the prop changes the clock position of the front
bulkhead mounting relative to the aft bulkhead.
I know we are not required to comply with ADs but I thought it was prudent
and a good value especially for resale.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Dust Remedy |
Another thing you can do is get yourself a bottle of apple vinegar (not
white vinegar) from the grocery store. Take a cold shower and use it like
you would use soap on a washcloth. It dissolves the nasty stuff and rinses
right away. Kind of stinks, so use regular soap afterwards. I was amazed
at how it works. I used to get real itchy after working with FGlass, (not
major allergic reactions, just unconfortable) and was told about this and it
does wonders.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DavidAWilks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/14/02 |
I would like to invite all RV builders, flyers and Enthusiasts to our November
15-17 Fly-In!! I am hosting this event in the name of FUN!! The host airport
is Galveston, Texas at the Lonestar Flight Museum.
Come join the fun and enter the show. Local EAA chapters will be making Young
Eagle flights throughout the day. Phillips 66 fuel rebates and local fuel pricing
will be in effect for all flyers.
Saturday night we will host a banquet inside the Lonestar Flight Museum. Nothing
better than dancing the night away with history surrounding us.
For more information and a list of all the historic tour sites, please view our
website.
http://www.davidawilks.com/fly-in
Hope to see you there!!
David Wilks
832-282-4004
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
This topic is covered under aero-electric. Use the archives.
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
> Hello:
>
> Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
> wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
>
> I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> trick
> to do it right...
>
> Appreciate the suggestions on this....
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
> started wiring...
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
Try using an old fashioned ice pick to do the unraveling of the shield.
Bob Hassel
RV9A Emp
Plano, Tx
>
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
> Date: 2002/06/15 Sat AM 08:21:22 CDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
>
> This topic is covered under aero-electric. Use the archives.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
>
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when connecting
> > wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
> >
> > I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> > but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> > trick
> > to do it right...
> >
> > Appreciate the suggestions on this....
> >
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > rv6a
> > started wiring...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring Vans Hour Meter Preasure Switch |
List, I have a three post oil pressure switch from Vans that is
supposed to activate a light and-or buzzer if oil pressure drops or you
leave the master on. The problem is how to wire?
The Three Posts on Vans Switch are marked as follows: 1)NO 2)NC
3) C ? I have wiring diagram but it calls for Three Posts marked as
follows 1)P 2)S 3)I ?
Can someone who has used Vans Switch tell me how to translate the
Wiring Diagram to Vans Switch Post Identifiers? Better yet how did you
wire Vans Hour Meter Pressure Switch?
Wiring City, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Vans Hour Meter Preasure Switch |
hi tom
the c=common, which is the wire coming from the master switch to send power
to n/c ( normally closed ) or n/o ( normally open ). the n/o wire goes to the
hobbs meter to engergize it when the oil pressure increases. the n/c wire
goes to the oil light or buzzer which will go off when the oil pressure comes
up.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
I need the gasket that fits between the prop governor drive and the
accessory case for an O-320 E2A. I cannot find the gasket listed or
shown in any of several Lycoming engine manuals. I have the gasket that
fits between the governor and the drive. A local Lycoming shop says try
a prop shop. The prop shop said try the engine shop. I'm out of ideas.
Anybody have any success in rolling their own gaskets? I'm open to any
suggestions.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Vans Hour Meter Preasure Switch |
Thanks Scott! Back to "Wire City"!
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Vans Hour Meter Preasure Switch
>
> hi tom
> the c=common, which is the wire coming from the master switch to send
power
> to n/c ( normally closed ) or n/o ( normally open ). the n/o wire goes to
the
> hobbs meter to engergize it when the oil pressure increases. the n/c wire
> goes to the oil light or buzzer which will go off when the oil pressure
comes
> up.
> good luck
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/14/02 |
DavidAWilks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I would like to invite all RV builders, flyers and Enthusiasts to our November
15-17 Fly-In!! I am hosting this event in the name of FUN!! The host airport
is Galveston, Texas at the Lonestar Flight Museum.
>
> Come join the fun and enter the show. Local EAA chapters will be making Young
Eagle flights throughout the day. Phillips 66 fuel rebates and local fuel pricing
will be in effect for all flyers.
>
> Saturday night we will host a banquet inside the Lonestar Flight Museum. Nothing
better than dancing the night away with history surrounding us.
>
> For more information and a list of all the historic tour sites, please view our
website.
>
> http://www.davidawilks.com/fly-in
>
> Hope to see you there!!
>
> David Wilks
> 832-282-4004
>
David,
It looks like fun, but a lot of the site is unreadable
because various pictures & text overlay each other. (I'm
using Netscape 4.7)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alergy reaction to fiberglass dust |
Plastics are generally classified as either thermoplastic or thermoset.
Thermoset plastics are polyurethanes, epoxy resins and urea-formaldehyde
compounds. Thermoplastics are PVC, polyethylene, polypropylene,
polystyrene, Nylon (polyamide), Plexiglas and Teflon.
The allergic reaction to uncured epoxy resin is a contact dermatitis that is
similar to "Rhus" catechol dermatitis (poison ivy, poison oak, etc.). The
resin very strongly binds with dermal skin proteins and has been shown in
some instances to alkylate DNA, which is suggestive of being carcinogenic.
Thus, once the resin has been in contact with bare skin for > 10-15 minutes,
it cannot be removed by physical washing/scrubbing. (However, it is rumored
that a product called "Tecnu" from Tec Laboratories, 1-800-ITCHING,
developed for poison ivy, may also work for epoxy resin exposure up to
several hours after contact (it doesn't appear to work for me)). Solvents
that liquefy or thin resin (toluene, acetone, naphtha) can be absorbed thru
the skin and then detoxified by the liver, and, in heavy/repeated doses,
cause liver damage.
Fiberglass dust exposure is simply a topical physical irritant (any cured
epoxy resin in the dust is no longer able to react with skin proteins--tho,
it's possible that some chemical could be in the mix that could cause a real
allergic reaction) and can be removed by physical washing (scrubbing the
area can also push the glass fragments deeper in the skin) or better, yet,
by the application of wide tape to the affected skin and then peeled gently
off (unless you're allergic to tape adhesive). If there are any masochists
out there, you could also consider a "hot wax peel"--don't get burned.
Washing with cold water appears to work better than hot water because it
decreases the release of histamine from the irritated skin and histamine
intensifies the itching sensation--it has nothing to do with glass fragments
in your "pores".
The initial allergic reaction to epoxy resin occurs 7-21 days after the
sensitizing exposure (you have to be sensitized to a chemical before you can
become allergic to it and the sensitizing exposure could be your first
exposure or the tenth--no way to predict). Subsequent reactions occur
within 12-48 hrs. The skin reaction physically resembles poison ivy (your
skin has only so many ways to react). Usual treatment consists of oral (a
Prednisone Dose-Pack) or intramuscular Depo-Medrol plus a strong topical
steroid cream/ointment (since this is a nasty reaction, most people need
both the internal and external cortisones to see any significant
improvement). The earlier the treatment is started after the reaction is
first noted or the exposure noted in a sensitized individual, the more
effective it will be.
Avoid skin contact with uncured epoxy resins. Use physical barriers
(gloves, clothing, "invisible gloves", etc.--use your imagination). Do not
breath the fumes in a closed in area (asthma, chronic cough, pulmonary
edema). Use eye protection and a dust mask when working with fiberglass
dust.
Six weeks is way too long for a topical irritant dermatitis--something else
has to be going on.
Boyd
RV-Super 6
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> Can someone tell me if there is a cure to the rash caused by the dust
> from my wheel pants. I'm absolutely sure this is the cause because it
> only affected two to three inches above my shoes. A rash began within
> two hours. After a few days, it began to itch. Now after six (6) weeks
> it is itching more than ever.
> The first application of Hydrocortisone relieved the itch for a
> week. Now, it is only effective for a day. Sure would appreciate a
> remedy.
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom Barnes -6 wrapping it up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasket source? |
Order one from Pro Aero Engines Inc. their E.Mail proair(at)mail.ocos.net.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gasket source?
>
> I need the gasket that fits between the prop governor drive and the
> accessory case for an O-320 E2A. I cannot find the gasket listed or
> shown in any of several Lycoming engine manuals. I have the gasket that
> fits between the governor and the drive. A local Lycoming shop says try
> a prop shop. The prop shop said try the engine shop. I'm out of ideas.
>
> Anybody have any success in rolling their own gaskets? I'm open to any
> suggestions.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB (Res.)
> San Antonio
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/14/02 |
Internet Explorer 5.5 works.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/14/02
>
> DavidAWilks(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I would like to invite all RV builders, flyers and Enthusiasts to our
November 15-17 Fly-In!! I am hosting this event in the name of FUN!! The
host airport is Galveston, Texas at the Lonestar Flight Museum.
> >
> > Come join the fun and enter the show. Local EAA chapters will be making
Young Eagle flights throughout the day. Phillips 66 fuel rebates and local
fuel pricing will be in effect for all flyers.
> >
> > Saturday night we will host a banquet inside the Lonestar Flight Museum.
Nothing better than dancing the night away with history surrounding us.
> >
> > For more information and a list of all the historic tour sites, please
view our website.
> >
> > http://www.davidawilks.com/fly-in
> >
> > Hope to see you there!!
> >
> > David Wilks
> > 832-282-4004
> >
>
> David,
>
> It looks like fun, but a lot of the site is unreadable
> because various pictures & text overlay each other. (I'm
> using Netscape 4.7)
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire how.. |
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bertrv6(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Shielded wire how..
>
>
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > Have a question, how you do separate the, shield mesh, when
connecting
> > wire to the magnetos, and/or other places..
> >
> > I have tried to unravel the strands, in order to make the pig tail...
> > but with little success...Have tried and tried, but I know it must be a
> > trick
> > to do it right...
> >
> > Appreciate the suggestions on this....
> >
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > rv6a
> > started wiring...
> >
> >
> >
Strip the insulation off the braid but leave the braid intact. Now solder
out 3/8" from the inslation that is left behind. Very carefully take your
very sharp dikes and score very lightly 1/4" out from the insulation. Now
bend back and forth till it breaks. You can now throw away the unused
shield. Take a short lenght of wire. (apx 3" long) Strip 1/4" piece of it
and tin it with solder. Now solder this to the braid with the wire running
away from the end with the center conductor. Slide a 5/8" piece of clear
heat sleaving over the wire and solder connection. Fold the shield
termination wire back over the heat sleaving to be next to the center
conductor. Terminate the wires with a ring lug or what ever is needed.
Hope this helps. This is sort of a "Homebrew" method to create one of those
expensive RayChem Zap Splice connectors.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,088.8+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | F610 &F611 angles |
Hello on plan #34 it's not very clear on how to make the angles that attach
to the longerons and bulkheads (F610 &F611) it looks like they have a slot in
the ends similar to ones i have put in other angles seem like common practice
to keep the angle from cracking but it's not real clear. thanks
Bill Higgins
RV 6
Pembroke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | K1000-4 center section attach nutplates |
I'm going to be getting to this point later today. On the wings, the 7
plans call for you to attach the K1000-4 center section attach nutplates to
the forward side of the spar. Refer to DWG 11. I have found a section
showing the platenuts, but no reference to the rivets. Anybody care to
chime in and let me know what to use?? Pic below shows the position for
these platenuts.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/csnutplates.jpg
BTW, it goes much faster working on two wings. After the first platenut
flange learning curve, I was able to do the remaining three in just over an
hour per flange.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
7 emp. wings on bench.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DavidAWilks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 06/15/02 |
In a message dated Sun, 16 Jun 2002 2:58:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
writes:
> > It looks like fun, but a lot of the site is unreadable
> > because various pictures & text overlay each other. (I'm
> > using Netscape 4.7)
> >
> > Charlie
Charlie,
I am trying to address the problem. I use Internet Explorer so I cannot see the
differences by using another browser. I did note that the page will not print
completely, so I am addressing those problems as well. I read this list everyday,
so post your questions and I will do my best to answer them all.
So far we have lots of donations for door prizes. One of them is a Garmin 295
and many other VERY nice items for giveaway. I am talking with many different
avionics companies to coax them out of lots of great deals and parts. All these
will be for the door prizes. I was told by one RV'er I should not have vendors
there... what is everyone's thought on that? Would you like to see the
items you are interested in, being displayed? Many enthusiasts may arrive although
this is not a Public Offering. I have only advertised to aircraft owners
and builders.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Regards,
David A. Wilks
http://www.davidawilks.com/fly-in
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F610 &F611 angles |
Hi Bill,
I have a fairly descriptive text with pictures of how I did it on my
website. Its at www.ericsrv6a.com. On the left, scroll down to the
"Fuselage" section and then click on "Mounting Tail".
The plans may have changed there depending on when you recieved your set.
My plans are from the year 2000. On the George O. video, he shows notches
in 3/4" x 3/4" angle. The plans I have, call for 1" x 1" angle and no
notches. The angle is riveted to the bottom of the longerons and to the
front of the bulkhead. The resulting gap is filled with a piece of 1/8"
aluminum.
Check out the pics on the website for a better idea of what I'm talking
about.
Hope this helps,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <WHigg1170(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: F610 &F611 angles
>
> Hello on plan #34 it's not very clear on how to make the angles that
attach
> to the longerons and bulkheads (F610 &F611) it looks like they have a slot
in
> the ends similar to ones i have put in other angles seem like common
practice
> to keep the angle from cracking but it's not real clear. thanks
>
> Bill Higgins
> RV 6
> Pembroke
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the
lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I
keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut
it in half "early"?
Canopy cuttin' in Carolina,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight - RV-8 |
This posting is a little late as I have been off the list changing my email
address, but N88MJ, an RV-8QB first flew on Monday out of Paine Field,
Everett, Washington after 4.5 years and 3600 hours of labor. It has a
factory new O-360 and Hartzell CS prop with an AirFlow Performance fuel
injection system. Full IFR with a Garmin 430, Garmin transponder and audio
panel and ICOM second com, S-Tec 20 autopilot, all electric attitude
indicator and Century HSI plus angle-of-attack.
It was not without incidence. 30 seconds after takeoff what I thought was
oil began spraying over the windshield. Got up to pattern altitude and
decided I had to come down NOW. Landed (more of an arrival - bounced three
times) with a 90 degree crosswind and little forward visibility. Turned
out to be grease from the prop. Had a defective grease fitting where the
ball didn't seat, so threw most of the hub grease out. A new fitting and
some grease solved the problem, but maybe Hartzell should pay my laundry
bill. Subsequent landings have been greasers (not on the windshield) now
that I know how the 8 lands. Will post some photos on Randy Lervold's
website (www.RV-8.com) in a week or so.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ now flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' |
Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took me about 20
iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges... before ready
to drill.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin'
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the
lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I
keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut
it in half "early"?
Canopy cuttin' in Carolina,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' |
ABOVE ALL...MAKE SURE THE PLASTIC IS AS WARM AS YOU CAN GET IT..AND...GO SLOW,
AND TRIAL FIT AFTER EVERY CUT.. good luck...and if you need another canopy I
have an extra one....
"G. Miller" wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "G. Miller"
>
> Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took me about 20
> iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges... before ready
> to drill.
>
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin'
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the
> lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
> fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I
> keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut
> it in half "early"?
>
> Canopy cuttin' in Carolina,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' |
Larry, I've just passed that point, am now adding 'glass fairing between
windscreen & fwd fuselage. My experience was that within 1/4" of the
factory lines, AND with notches cut in the canopy to avoid the frame's ribs,
I was able to get a good fit all around, including having it lay on top of
the rollover bar....just had to adjust front/back position and mostly adjust
the 'windscreen's' match to the top fwd fuselage. Laying on the bar gave me
solid support while making the parting-cut.....which, shaking hands
notwithstanding, went must fine with the kit's cutting wheel. Spend lots
of time getting things lined up and each step clear in your mind....there's
only one attempt!
Best,
David
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
>I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the
>lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
>fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I
>keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut
>it in half "early"?
>
David Grebe
RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA
Starting Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid servo in the cockpit of an -8A |
Hello-
Anybody out there mount the Navaid servo in the
cockpit of an -8A?
Seems to me that someone with -8 did it....
Pictures or discussion would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
RV-8A Fuselage
*****************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' |
Thanks for all of the advice. I am doing all of it.
But the quesiton was, when is the bubble cut in half? Many folks say
they did it earlier than the plans say. My question for those folks is:
When was that?
Also, how much is typically cut off the sides? I haven't done any yet.
The sides are just now getting to where they touch the frame.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jollyd
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 12:24 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin'
>
>
>
> ABOVE ALL...MAKE SURE THE PLASTIC IS AS WARM AS YOU CAN GET
> IT..AND...GO SLOW, AND TRIAL FIT AFTER EVERY CUT.. good
> luck...and if you need another canopy I have an extra one....
>
> "G. Miller" wrote:
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "G. Miller"
> >
> > Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took
> me about
> > 20 iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges...
> > before ready to drill.
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin'
> >
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> >
> > I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost
> up to the
> > lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
> > fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover
> bar. Do I
> > keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where
> everyone else
> > cut it in half "early"?
> >
> > Canopy cuttin' in Carolina,
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Well, having just cracked mine last week...
As you trim, allow the edge of the rear half of the plexi to overlap the
canopy frame. You may have to cut it in half to do this. It really doesn't
matter if it is long here, since it will be covered by the skirt, and on the
inside by finishing material. I left mine too short here, and the edge
distance was too short. It survived the drilling, but when I pulled the
"keeper" rivets in, every hole cracked. I had no problem with the other
holes, where I had at least 1/2" from the hole to the edge of the plexi, but
having only 1/4" is the recipe for a crack. The plans call for 5/16" from
the edge to the center of the holes, I think this is too little. If this is
not clear, I could send you a picture.
John, RV8qb, Pagosa Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Canopy cuttin'
I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the
lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are
fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I
keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut
it in half "early"?
Canopy cuttin' in Carolina,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' |
Thanks for the advice. I've made another cut to the 'factory lines'.
I'll try another fit as soon as I can get wifey to help hoist it up
there. Again!
It fits well in the back, and the 3.25" between the windshield and the
bag door is good, so I guess I'll keep taking little bits off until it
touches the roll bar.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> David L. Grebe
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin'
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "David L. Grebe"
>
> Larry, I've just passed that point, am now adding 'glass
> fairing between windscreen & fwd fuselage. My experience was
> that within 1/4" of the factory lines, AND with notches cut
> in the canopy to avoid the frame's ribs, I was able to get a
> good fit all around, including having it lay on top of the
June 07, 2002 - June 16, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-my