RV-Archive.digest.vol-na
June 24, 2002 - June 30, 2002
> >some fabric stores, but they don't have anything like that. Or, I would
be
> >glad to hear abotu any good material you may have used.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Gary Liming
>
>
> Leather baby! Have no idea what kind of flammability it has. Probably
> burns nicely, with a piquant, backyard BBQ kind of smell. I say that if
> you're on fire all the way back to the sidewalls, you're just plain
screwed
> no matter what is used for upholstery fabric. Use what you like, and
enjoy
> it.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 293 hrs.
>
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
I have a friend that built a Sonex, is using the same wheel and tire as the
nose wheel of an RV, and is looking for a used wheel pant for it. I already
said he could have mine because I ordered the new e-glass pant from Van's,
but he need another... If anyone has one they wont be using, please let me
know off list...
Thanks...
-Bill
n8wv(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
I took about half a can. I mixed in the little plastic epoxy cups
available at a hobby shop; each mix was about enough to do 2 ribs. I
shot for a 1/32" to 1/16" thick layer over the rib flanges (filling the
flutes to match). When you cleco the part in place, you will see a
healthy bead ooze on either side of the flange. I also went back and
used my finger to caulk the inboard and outboard end ribs. I suspect
that those who used more probably mixed too-large batches and had more
wastage than I. There is no great rush to do it all at once; stopping
to mix a new batch only takes a few minutes. I did one tank (except the
rear baffle) in one evening, the other on the following evening, and
then the rear baffles the third evening. No leaks by the balloon method
and I don't expect any avgas seepage. I *did* go through about an
entire box of surgical gloves; change them anytime you find yourself in
danger of getting proseal in the wrong place. Don't get the powdered
ones; you'll contaminate your proseal.
I know that was more than you asked, but I just couldn't stop myself.
Historically, this is the chore everybody hates but I didn't
think it was so bad. Not that I particularly enjoyed it, but I came out
of it without proseal all over me, my tools, my apartment, etc. If you
maintain control at all times and show no fear, you can easily tame the
beast.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Proseal amount.
Could someone please give me the real world amount of proseal it will
take
to do both tanks? I'd rather have leftover of the dreaded goo, than not
enough.
Thanks,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | -8A/O320/Wood prop |
Are there any other RV-8A's with O320's and wood props flying out there? I
would like to talk to you off list...
Thanks! -Bill
n8wv(at)hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on Upholstery |
>Speaking of Leather...
>
>I'm in need of some upholstery advice myself.
>
>My plane is going into the paint shop for 60 weeks (it's only six weeks but
>it will feel like sixty by the time I get it back) so I'm going to have
>some
>free time on my hands. I notice through regular wear and tear that the
>side
>panels that cover the flap arms are pretty scuffed up. I was thinking that
>I should probably cover these with leather.
>
>I'm new at the whole upholstery game. How does one cover aluminum with
>leather??? My guess is some sort of spray on adhesive but if so what kind
>is best. After sitting out side in the Texas sun, it gets pretty darn hot
>inside that fuselage. Is there any kind of glue that can take that heat?
>
>What does one do about the corners. Seems like the leather would bunch up
>pretty good turning a 90 degree corner. I assume that you just fold it
>over
>and tack it down somehow.
>
>What say oh wise and experienced ones.
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( flying into the paint shop next week )
I'm not wise, but definitely experienced! Use 3M spray contact adhesive and
a tube of upholstery trim adhesive glue. You can get it at any auto parts
store. The leather sticks just fine to the aluminum. The edges have to be
folded under to make a clean edge. The trick to a smooth finish is to very
slightly undersize the piece you're installing so you have to stretch it a
bit as you stick it down. If you want some sound and thermal insulation,
use some headliner foam, which is available at auto upholstery supply
stores, as a backing. I used this on most of the interior side walls and it
adds a nice cushy feel to the sidewalls and doesn't get chilled from those
cold winter flights. The bare leather on the metal also looks great if you
don't want to mess with the foam. It's not a small job, by the way. To do
a full interior, which involves making manila paper patterns, cutting,
trimming, etc, takes a few days at least.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
293 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
I am not at the point of attaching the wings, but the recent thread on the
rear spar bolt hole location issue has me wondering about avoiding a
problem. The manual is clear that this is a critical hole and advises
checking and rechecking, but people are still reporting problems. I'm
seeking advice on exactly how to check hole position. Does a person drill
#40 and remove the wings? Other ideas?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuse bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Access Panel Screws |
> > Ok, it seem quite a few people are switching to Hex head 1/2" 8-32
> > stainless steel screws for attaching the tank access cover. Does this
> > seem to be right route to take?
Yes, see...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-378x.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
Sam,
I have followed and copied so many things from your website, I feel I should change
my planned N-number to one ending with SB (N_XXXSB) just as a tribute to
you. However, my opinion regarding the re-sale of RVs 20+ years from now differs
from yours somewhat.
-Now......try to sell that once glorious RV to a shiney-faced 2022 model
-year prospective builder who is rabidly devouring all the brochures and
-marketing of the latest and greatest aircraft!
How is this any different than today? The 2002 brochures for the latest and greatest
all have price tags in the 200K range. Sure, most of these are 4-seaters,
but the point is still valid. The skyrocketing price of general aviation
will make our RVs seem like great deals. As a matter of fact, I'll go as far
as to say, in 20+ years the only affordable alternative for someone interested
in learning to fly will be to purchase that great looking 20+ year old RV-XX.
Boy, would I love to be that young student pilot who will have to sacrifice
and save his pennies to learn to fly in an RV, or maybe that first time buyer
whom has to settle for my, soon to be, pampered RV-9A.
-Or.......just look at how likely you were to buy a twenty year old
-Thorpe T-18 or Quickie instead of building a new RV!
I agree here. Not because they are 20+ years old, but because the craftsmanship
and finishing details of these airplanes is poor. I believe the pre-punched
kits are changing the market a bit. These are allowing the average builder (like
me) to have a more professionally looking bird without the need to be a true
craftsman. Before the arrival of the pre-punched kits, I can't even begin
to tell you how many airplanes, including RVs, I saw at the Sun-N-Fun flight
line with rivet lines that seemed like the builder eyeballed the location and
just drilled. Structurally, there was probably nothing wrong with these airplanes,
but they certainly didn't inspire any confidence in me to purchase them.
However, a well built and good looking airplane will sell no matter what or
when.
Many airplanes, production and experimentals, will be out of commission by the
time they reach 20+ years. Probably due to lack of interest by the owner, and
they will be either be sold or abandoned. If your airplane is sold, wouldn't
you be more confident about your sale knowing that you deburred every hole in
your RV after taking that huge liability plunge? I say debur every single hole.
I did.
Just my $0.02
Fabian
RV-9A (90292)
Deburring the hell out fuselage
>>> sbuc(at)hiwaay.net 06/22/02 11:36PM >>>
I certainly don't want to cast a negative light on anybody's
"experienced" RV!
And I am certainly no prophet when it comes to profit.......I kept my
growth funds six months too long....... :-(
However.....we need to keep in mind the possible resell climate twenty
years from now when instead of a couple dozen RV's being for sale, there
are many hundred. This multitude of mature RV's is going to be sporting
panels full of antique watch-like instruments, obscure little vacuum
driven gizmos that haven't worked in years, and navaids and radios that
have about as much relevance as an ADF or coffee grinder com do now. Not
to mention a creaky old engine that will need to be converted so it can
run on diesel.
Now......try to sell that once glorious RV to a shiney-faced 2022 model
year prospective builder who is rabidly devouring all the brochures and
marketing of the latest and greatest aircraft!
Or.......just look at how likely you were to buy a twenty year old
Thorpe T-18 or Quickie instead of building a new RV!
I stand by my statement that most of our planes will be out to pasture
by the time they are twenty years old.....and the whole purpose of this
nonsense is to make us consider whether or not we should obsess over
trying to build a plane that will last forever....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6......seventeen years to go!)
"The RV Journal" http://sambuchanan.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
Vince,
This is normal. As long as the start lock washers are there everything
should work as advertised.
MIke Robertson
>From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine Bolts
>Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:45:27 -0400
>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>I just received my engine (IO-360) built up by an engine shop. I was
>noticing that the studs for the mags and the prop governor (5/16-18)are
>equipped with the star type lock washers and plain nuts. Is the customary
>for this application or should I be looking for nuts that can be saftied or
>the metal lock nuts?
>
>It also appears that the same studs, lock washers, and nuts are used for
>the
>exhaust system.
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Dana Overall Proseal Amount |
I used two quarts with very little used out of the second quart. The
stuff has a short shelf life so order it as you need it. If you are
careful, one quart is enough but it appears most builders need the
second. Don't throw the outdated stock away as I have found it useful
as an adhesive for other things such as, a firewall seal, filling gaps
between the plexi and sheet metal in the canopy, glueing the NACA air
vent to aluminum, etc.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Engine & wiring
Northfield, MN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
Steve
I don't know how the RV-8 wing attaches, but here's how I did it on my
RV-6A:
I got the wing into proper position, then drilled a #40 hole in the rear of
the rear spar attachment that comes out of the fuselage. I drilled just deep
enough to go through the first layer. The drill made a mark on the rear
spar, but just in case it didn't, I put a Sharpie pen into the hole and made
a mark on the rear wing spar.
Then I pulled the wing out of the airplane a few inches and measured to make
sure I was going to have proper edge distance.
It measured OK, so I drilled the hole in the wing spar #40.
Then I put it all back together, pinned the hole with the stub of an old #40
drill bit and re-checked the incidence of the wing.
When that checked out OK, I removed the pin and finished drilling #40. I put
in a clecoe and checked the incidence again. Small adjustments are possible
at this point, but should not be needed.
Finally, I progressively drilled the hole and reamed to final size.
After that, I did the same thing on the other wing.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
I am not at the point of attaching the wings, but the recent thread on the
rear spar bolt hole location issue has me wondering about avoiding a
problem. The manual is clear that this is a critical hole and advises
checking and rechecking, but people are still reporting problems. I'm
seeking advice on exactly how to check hole position. Does a person drill
#40 and remove the wings? Other ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
Steve
I just did mine, here some thoughts.....
I originally set the incidence as stated in the manual, using the manual
methods, nothing wrong here.
When all was set acc. to specs, I found that the left rear spar sat
higher in the rear spar attach point than the right side. right side I
had room to spare.
didn't want to dril the left spar as is, and posted to the list and to
Van's. All advice was similar, drop the left wing rear till I was
getting the minumum edge distance comfortably. Van's and I kinda laughed
when we talked about digital levels here, life before the digital level
was soooo much easier when setting the wings ;-)
Now, as mentioned somewhere else, there is almost no room for error
here. If I build another -8, I *WOULD NOT* taper the rear spar attach
point. Yes, I measured my taper and it is (luckily) tapered less than
the plans call for.
Moved the left wing rear spar down enough so the bottom of the rear spar
was like 1/32" - 1/16" below the rear spar attach point. This way I
could measure all edge distances from the rear attach point. Then I set
the right wing incidence to match the left wing (About everybody's
suggestion incl. van's)
Now I drew lines 5/8" in from all edges, if all works out okay you will
end up with a safe area to drill in. My advice is to go to the
horizontal center of the safe zone and slightly vertical inboard.
Inboard because there will be more edge distance the closer you get to
the fuse because of the taper.
Now put a center punch and carefully drill with a long #40 or so. Once
you have drilled the hole, measure and measure again.
Just keep drilling bigger and bigger holes, *AND KEEP MEASURING*, holes
do wander a bit. Make sure your drilll is perpendicular.
One thing I ran into on my first hole was that the air drill tended to
bite and get stuck on anything approaching 1/4" drills, i had to use my
stronger, electric dril to get a clean hole. everytime the air drill
bit, the drill would jerk sideways, not conducive to round holes. going
to a stronger drill eliminated this problem.
I feel my attach holes are farely tight, however, if there is a next
time I would drill undersize and ream to a close fit. Don't want that
point to rattle ;-)
Now, things to ponder, by LOWERING the BACK of the wing down I should
theoretically RAISE the FRONT of the horizontal stab. I believe the wing
and stab should be in the same horizontal plane, plus or minus the
preset offset angle.
The rear of the horizontal stab is fixed ( 4 bolts) but the front has
spacers i could shim if i had to.
Anybody care to confirm this ???
Gert
Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
> I am not at the point of attaching the wings, but the recent thread on the
> rear spar bolt hole location issue has me wondering about avoiding a
> problem. The manual is clear that this is a critical hole and advises
> checking and rechecking, but people are still reporting problems. I'm
> seeking advice on exactly how to check hole position. Does a person drill
> #40 and remove the wings? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 fuse bulkheads
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Absolutely the extra climb is a function of the CS prop on the 4.
What I was illustrating is that the 6 is definately heavier than the 4 but
the overall speeds are about the same. Hull speed is hull speed. A 5 to 10%
change in HP or weight isn't going to change that very much. Nor would
making a 4 slightly fatter to become a 6.
So my increase in weight and horsepower meant that we both have about the
same overall speed, which was the original question for comparison, I think,
although now I don't remember??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Thanks, Fabian, but I think one Sam Buchanan RV in the fleet is
about all we could stand!
And, no apologies are necessary for differing with my admittedly biased
opinion.
You, and others, possibly due to lack of clarity in my original post,
failed to realize I was speaking solely of the experimental aircraft
market. The "shiny-faced" individual I noted as a "builder", not someone
who was apt to pop half a million dollars for a production plane.
The thrust of my statement regarding future value of our RVs is
predicated on the market principle of supply and demand. To repeat the
premise of my post, the favorable resale prices of our RVs today is due
partly on their percieved value, but, and this is important, mainly on
the fact that there are relatively few available used RV's in the market
and the fact that there are currently no similar alternatives in the
production market, especially at comparable price levels.
The production market situation may be similar in twenty years (or
non-existent!?) but one thing that is going to change drastically is the
supply issue. In twenty years there are going to be hundreds of RVs
available to the used market. This is simply a function of the huge
number of RVs now under construction and the fact that many current
builders are going to be compelled to dump their completed planes due to
medical problems, lack of interest, or for the far superior RV-19! :-)
The glut of used RV's on the market, coupled with the stigma attached to
amateur-built planes (though the RV revolution is slowly improving that
situation) will drive the relative value of our old planes down. No
longer will they fetch prices above the cost of buying a new kit.
Fabian, don't forget that we are going to see huge changes in avionics
and engine/fuel issues in the next five-ten years. I predict that most
RV builders in five years will not even consider putting a vacuum system
in their plane. I am currently flying an AHRS flight instrument system
in my plane, and please believe me, this is the way of the near future!
So, as I mentioned before, most of the multitude of used RV's on the
used market in twenty years are going to be equipped with stuff in the
panel that to the future builder, will at the least be regarded as
obsolete, and possibly even amusing! This means the old planes will be a
source of curiosity, not lust.... ;-)
This huge fleet of old, obsolete planes is going to drive the resell
value below the prices we are accustomed to seeing now. Will many of
these planes be airworthy? Of course, unless they don't have engines or
radios that meet the standards twenty years from now. But they will not
be very attractive to the builder who wants a new plane with current
technology.
Sometimes the truth stings a little....... ;-)
But.......I may be wrong......we are, after all, discussing the state of
affairs twenty years from now..... :-)
The point of my post was not to encourage builders to skip deburring
holes; it was to call into question the premise that not deburring every
skin rivet hole guarrenteed a catastrophic airframe failure. We have to
remember that some new builders are hanging on every word they read on
the list, and blanket statements that aren't backed up with real world
experience need to be carefully examined. There are issues I regard as
far more relevant to airframe integrity than deburring skin rivet holes.
My strong survival instinct caused me to carefully examine every aspect
of the building process; you can rest assured that I have great
confidence in the integrity of my plane, not only when I am in the left
seat, but if/when it is sold to another pilot in the future.
Best regards
Sam Buchanan
=============================
FABIAN LEFLER wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
>
> I have followed and copied so many things from your website, I feel I should
change my planned N-number to one ending with SB (N_XXXSB) just as a tribute to
you. However, my opinion regarding the re-sale of RVs 20+ years from now differs
from yours somewhat.
> -Now......try to sell that once glorious RV to a shiney-faced 2022 model
> -year prospective builder who is rabidly devouring all the brochures and
> -marketing of the latest and greatest aircraft!
>
> How is this any different than today? The 2002 brochures for the latest and
greatest all have price tags in the 200K range. Sure, most of these are 4-seaters,
but the point is still valid. The skyrocketing price of general aviation
will make our RVs seem like great deals. As a matter of fact, I'll go as far
as to say, in 20+ years the only affordable alternative for someone interested
in learning to fly will be to purchase that great looking 20+ year old RV-XX.
Boy, would I love to be that young student pilot who will have to sacrifice
and save his pennies to learn to fly in an RV, or maybe that first time buyer
whom has to settle for my, soon to be, pampered RV-9A.
> -Or.......just look at how likely you were to buy a twenty year old
> -Thorpe T-18 or Quickie instead of building a new RV!
>
> I agree here. Not because they are 20+ years old, but because the craftsmanship
and finishing details of these airplanes is poor. I believe the pre-punched
kits are changing the market a bit. These are allowing the average builder
(like me) to have a more professionally looking bird without the need to be a
true craftsman. Before the arrival of the pre-punched kits, I can't even begin
to tell you how many airplanes, including RVs, I saw at the Sun-N-Fun flight
line with rivet lines that seemed like the builder eyeballed the location and
just drilled. Structurally, there was probably nothing wrong with these airplanes,
but they certainly didn't inspire any confidence in me to purchase them.
However, a well built and good looking airplane will sell no matter what or
when.
>
> Many airplanes, production and experimentals, will be out of commission by the
time they reach 20+ years. Probably due to lack of interest by the owner, and
they will be either be sold or abandoned. If your airplane is sold, wouldn't
you be more confident about your sale knowing that you deburred every hole
in your RV after taking that huge liability plunge? I say debur every single
hole. I did.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
A 'lock' washer in Lycoming speak is a star washer not a split/spring
type of washer. Historically, star washers have been used on engines.
Why? Perhaps because of the heat cycles involved would kill the temper
in a split washer.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Lueder
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Bolts
<blueder@superior-air-parts.com>
ACTUALLY THE LYCOMING PARTS CATALOG CALLS OUT THE USE OF A LOCK WASHER,
FLAT
WASHER AND THE PLAIN NUT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Rear spar bolt hole - major problem |
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)us.ibm.com> |
06/24/2002 11:51:26 AM
Scott-
I can understand where you are coming from- it will be a very difficult
repair; I sure wouldn't want to do it.
You will have to remove a lot of rivets, then replace them all, but it can
be done so the assembly is as
strong as the one you replaced. Here's the advice I always follow when I
try to make a difficult decision:
"What would you have been willing to do, when you discover the consequences
to something you are about to do?".
It makes the decision a little easier because you are looking at the
consequences to your actions instead of
how much work it is. Just imagine you are flying with a friend or a loved
one when the wing comes off. Van's designed
these airplanes and they understand the trade-offs the best- there have
been many warnings published in the
RVator about the rear spar bolt hole edge distance, so they've thought
about this more than just this once. I always
follow their advice; I sincerely suggest you do too.
Sam Ray
80262
drilling the gear legs at the moment
>I am posting this for a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. Recently,
>while fitting the wings to his RV-8 he found that he had drilled the hole
on
>the rear spar of his left hand wing too low, thus violating the edge
>distance by between 1/16 - 1/32". Local A&Ps, engineers (not aerospace)
and
>even a computer nerd or two looked at it and said, "Just fly it."
>
>My friend called Van's and asked them for advice. Their advice was not to
>fly it in that condition because it was just too "iffy." They further
told
>him to remove and replace that portion of the rear wing spar. Our
thoughts
>on this was that the cure was worse than the disease. We felt that this
>would weaken the rear spar.
>
>So now we put to these vast halls of wisdom. What do you think he should
>do?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rear spar bolt hole |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I would start small & step drill to just below & ream. That will give a
round hole & the right size.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
writes:
>
>
> I am not at the point of attaching the wings, but the recent thread
> on the
> rear spar bolt hole location issue has me wondering about avoiding a
> problem. The manual is clear that this is a critical hole and
> advises
> checking and rechecking, but people are still reporting problems.
> I'm
> seeking advice on exactly how to check hole position. Does a person
> drill
> #40 and remove the wings? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 fuse bulkheads
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/4 wing root fairing rubber |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
The non step goes out. careful trimming the fairing. I did too much & you
can't add metal.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
writes:
>
> Hi:
> I am making my wing root fairings for my RV-6A and have a
> dumb question
> about the rubber "weather strip" material that seals it against the
> fuselage. I'm not sure which surface of the rubber stripping should
> face up. It looks like it could go either way.
>
> This is hard to describe with words, but the rubber strip
> has a
> crossection which looks like a lower case "h", that is, it's a flat
> strip on one side and has a flap on the other side. Do I put the
> rubber
> on the fairing with the tall part of the h facing out, or the short
> part
> facing out?
>
> The manual says virtually nothing about the fairing. There's
> a quite a
> bit in the archives, but apparently no one but me has been confused
> on
> the orientation of the strip.
> --
> Tom Sargent. RV-6A
> Better to ask a dumb questions than to make a dumb mistake.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal amount. |
Dana,
Like Sam Buchanan, I also used about 2/3 can for both tanks, following the
very respected Scott McDaniels' "school" for prosealing. Keep leftover
proseal can and catalyst jar in frig. You will find numerous good uses over
the next year or so.
Jack Blomgren, MN RV Wing
-8 fuselage
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
>Could someone please give me the real world amount of proseal it will take
>to do both tanks?
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Access Panel Screws |
Folks,
8-32 x 1/2" stainless steel cap head (Allen) srews with #8 ss washers work
great for the fuel tanl covers. Get some 10-32 x 1/2" and 5/8" ones as well
to use with your Adel clamps under the cowl. Lots easier to install with a
1/4" drive bit than regular phillips head screws or hex head bolts.
McMaster Carr has a great selection. About $7 for a box of 100. Same with
with washers. About $11 for a box 0f 500.
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
Hi Vince,
The use of the fasteners that you speak of was decided upon by the engineers
that designed the engine way back when:
-Tractor engines couldn't fly.
-Henry Ford painted his cars any color you liked as long as it was black.
--The Rockies were not as tall as they are today.
-Airplanes still couldn't fly over them.
-The Wright brothers were still considered by many to be wrong.{:-)!
-The FAA. Could recognize an aviation threat to civil life and limb, then
offer up reasonable a ruling without legal intervention that satisfied the
needs of all concerned and do so in something less than the time it took
humanity to learn how to fly in the first place. {:-!
A closer look will reveal that the whole engine case etc. is held together
with the same type of nuts washers and bolts
These national course thread beuties have worked quite well over the past
sixty some odd years.
Keep on building and smiling,
Jim in Kelowna
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I just received my engine (IO-360) built up by an engine shop. I was
> noticing that the studs for the mags and the prop governor (5/16-18)are
> equipped with the star type lock washers and plain nuts. Is the customary
> for this application or should I be looking for nuts that can be saftied
or
> the metal lock nuts?
>
> It also appears that the same studs, lock washers, and nuts are used for
the
> exhaust system.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | El Paso RV6-A accident |
Does anyone have any info on the 6-A that crashed on it't maiden flight last
Weds at El Paso? Someone on another experimental site sent me a scan of the
newspaper picture.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hagen" <chagen(at)hagenrealestate.com> |
| Subject: | El Paso RV-6A Accident |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: El Paso RV-6A Accident
>
> http://www.borderlandnews.com/stories/borderland/20020620-122718.shtml
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal amount. |
Hello Dana,
Quite often this list does a good job of providing reassuring information.
Scott's and other's posts are great examples.
As others have stated more than two thirds of an American quart of the van's
supplied sealant will most likely be adding unnecessary weight. Working
alone at this tank sealing task for the first time I chose to err in favor
what looked like too much sealant. The end result was two thirds of a quart
used.
With the job done and pressure testing successful, I now see that I could
have used less sealant material with good success. Do refer to the archives
for the post from Scott that someone mentioned . After looking back on this
job myself, I found his advise was right on the money.
Cutting a large number paper towels into about six piece sections in advance
will provide a stack of throw away wipes. These can be dipped in or
squirted with solvent or not as required. This was a big help in controlling
the tendency of the sealant to creep into various places where the sun don't
shine within two minutes of mixing the first batch.
I used an artist's metal spatula ( tapered with about a quarter inch radius
tip) to spread the goop after trying other methods and tools. The fairly
flexible spatula became my favorite tool for the job.
On the RV6 tanks, a helper should be sought. I have more smilies out toward
the leading edge than I need. I would not attempt to do this job alone again
until my arms grow at least a few inches longer. The 9 wings could be doable
alone.
After the tanks are done put the sealant in the fridge it will keep and be
useful for more general purposes for years.
Don't worry go ahead, get tanked, {.-)!
Jim in Kelowna
>
> Could someone please give me the real world amount of proseal it will take
> to do both tanks? I'd rather have leftover of the dreaded goo, than not
> enough.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> Wings final drilled.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Drill Bits, Countersinks, Clecos, etc. |
I have a small number of new drill bits, drill stops, countersink cutters,
clecos, cleco pliers and ScotchBrite wheels for sale:
Regular Spring Loaded Cleco Fasteners - 3/32", 1/8", 3/16" - $0.32 each
Wing Nut Cleco Fasteners - 3/32", 1/8", 3/16" - $2.25 each
Cleco Pliers - $5.50 each
Countersink Cutters - #10, #12, #19, #21, #30, #40 - $4.75 each
Drill Stops - #10, #21, #30, #40, 1/4" - $1.00 each or $4.25 for the set
Jobber Length Super Cobalt (8%) 135 degree Drill Bits:
#40 - $0.96
#30 - $1.13
#21 - $1.48
#19 - $1.52
#12 - $1.75
#10 - $1.93
6" Extension Length Super Cobalt (8%) 135 degree Drill Bits:
#40 - $1.94
#30 - $2.04
#21 - $2.23
#19 - $2.32
#12 - $2.52
#10 - $2.67
12" Extension Length Super Cobalt (8%) 135 degree Drill Bits:
#40 - $3.44
#30 - $3.54
#21 - $3.64
#19 - $3.72
#12 - $3.92
#10 - $4.12
Threaded Shank 1.25" Length Super Cobalt (8%) Drill Bits:
#40 - $1.69
#30 - $1.87
#21 - $2.02
#19 - $2.42
#12 - $2.67
#10 - $2.72
ScotchBrite Wheels - 1" x 1", 3/16" hole, 5A grit - good for polishing -
$1.00 each
Please contact me off list if you have questions or are interested in
purchasing any of these items.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Failed exhaust brackets |
> A closer inspection showed that the Adel
>clamps used to support the aft end of the pipe to the engine mount had
>both cracked and broke at the 90 degree bend of the clamp.
Mine only lasted sixty hours. Larry Vetterman has new brackets.
Our tech counsel has a tested but heavy design. I'm working on one that
might work. It will also be attached to the engine.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Prices (Was operating costs) |
>
>Sunny (and hot) Phoenix has hangers for $160/month, new, and unlimited
Paul,
Not PHX I assume? I might visit my cousin in Scotsdale - which airport is
near and reasonable.?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jdaniels114(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Access Panel Screws |
On Monday, June 24, 2002, at 04:36 PM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Thanks for the tip, Don. Just ordered a pack of 100 for $6.71. In case
> anybody else wants the nitty-gritty details:
>
> 18-8 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screw 8-32 Thread X 1/2" Length
> Part # 92949A194
> $6.71 for a pack of 100
Another alternative if you want a little more pedigree is part number
92200A194 - Military Specification Socket HD Cap Screw 8-32 Thread, 1/2"
Length, MS16995-26 $4.74 PK (of 10 - jwd)
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=284&FT_518=49386&
FT_255=22657&FT_136=2864110=284;518=49386;255=22657;136=2864
Probably comes out of the same bin, but with a x10 price!!
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ceramic Exhaust Coatings |
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
As I am in the process of making up the heat muffs for cabin and carb
heat on my Vetterman S/S exhaust, I figured that wrapping the system
would not only reduce cowl temps and heat transfer into the sump, but
increase the heat going onto the muffs. I did this 7 years ago on my now
500 hr Rotax 912-powered bird, and not had a problem, but unwilling to
take the chance of problems with the much more expensive RV6. So I
started thinking about ceramic coatings. They work on race stuff, but my
question is - what about the effect on the heat muffs ? Do they still
work as well when fitted to a pipe coated inside and out to reduce temps
?
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scott(at)hecenter.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator...or not |
I have an Airflow Performance injected IO-360 from Aerosport. It comes
with an Airflow fuel pump and FILTER and says that it is the only filter
you need, but also states that if used with a gascolator, that the
gascolator should be at the lowest point in the system(which it will not
be as the Airflow fuel filter mounts on the cockpit floor and the
colator will be slightly above this on the firewall.) Is a gascolator
needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
injected engines.
Any Thoughts
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator...or not |
In a message dated 6/24/02 9:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
scott(at)hecenter.com writes:
<< Is a gascolator
needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
injected engines.
Any Thoughts
Scott >>
I've got a gascolator. I'm convinced that it does two things...
1) Provides a low point for water to settle out. On the other hand, I've
never found any water in mine...
2) Provides another heat exchanger so heat from inside your cowl can warm
your fuel and complicate your life with vapor lock...
I'm not sure if I'd install one if I built another RV. If I did, I'd go with
a wing root installation to avoid the heat problem. Check the archives for
details on the wing root gascolator.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Gascolator...or not |
Scott, here are some thoughts. A gascolator is designed primarily to
separate water from the fuel. Small amounts of water in a carburator
can really be bad news, as its viscosity is so much higher than fuel
that it might not be sucked through (surface tension at the interface
between air and water is the more correct variable to compare, but let's
leave it at viscosity for now). With fuel injection, the problem of
surface tension doesn't really arise, since the fuel (or water) is
crammed under pressure through the system, and nowhere is there a
water/air interface being motivated by small pressures. Even a cup (8
oz) of water will be pumped through in a matter of about 15-30 seconds
at full throttle, and a cup is an absurd amount of water.
Anyway, I think Don Rivera at A/P is correct in suggesting that with FI
one does not need a gascolator.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 163 hours
>
> I have an Airflow Performance injected IO-360 from Aerosport.
> It comes with an Airflow fuel pump and FILTER and says that
> it is the only filter you need, but also states that if used
> with a gascolator, that the gascolator should be at the
> lowest point in the system(which it will not be as the
> Airflow fuel filter mounts on the cockpit floor and the
> colator will be slightly above this on the firewall.) Is a
> gascolator needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use
> a gascolator on their injected engines.
>
> Any Thoughts
> Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Bert wrote:
"I would like to see, some of the installations used, hopefully a good photo
of this.."
Hi Bert:
I have a few photos of the Matco parking brake valve installation at this
link:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/brake_valve.html
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fluxgate compass |
Does anyone have any follow-up to this fancy compass?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hello, Nisonger technical staff.
>
> There are a few thousand aircraft homebuilders building neat
> airplanes and some might be interested in your fluxgate compass.
>
> When I see "fluxgate" I think of military 110vac/400 cycle
> remote compass technology (from Korean War 1950's era).
> Could you provide a bit of technical info on your fluxgate
> system? If you will include the RV-list addr (in the Cc
> line) you will reach a wide audience and cut down on
> individual requests for the same info - save you some time.
>
> I assume vehcile heading is always at the top, correct?
>
> Some info on the remote sensor would be most helpful - size,
> mounting, current draw, etc.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: Fluxgate compass
>
>
> >
> > Hi everybody,
> > This sounds very interesting:
> >
> > http://www.nisongermarine.com/3-gcid2.html
> >
> > A remote mounted sensor, 2 1/16" round face, electrical
> compass. $182.
> > (custom colored rim +$10).
> >
> > Hey Randall, didn't you want one of these ?
> >
> > Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring question |
I think I've seen this race car come around the track several times now - I
need to clarify something.
Paul and Cy say that the wire to each individual light needs to be sized for
the normal current of 1 bulb, not the total current that the CB or fuse will
be rated at (carrying current for both lights).
Todd & Charlie say that the wire to each light needs to be large enough to
carry the current that the CB or fuse will permit to go thru.
The way I see it, with a single CB or fuse feeding the two wires going to
the two lights: With no short circuit, both bulbs will be burning 7.5 amps,
plus or minus according to voltage in system as pointed out by later
e-mails. Thus, the fuse/CB is running right at its limit (might want to
make it a 17 or 20 amp fuse/cb to prevent nuisance trips with in rush
current - we can fix that during testing after wiring)
- Now, we introduce a short in the circuit going to 1 of the lights:
The fuse or cb is already near its limit - there will only be another 5 amps
or so (not much more) allowed thru the fuse/cb - and the "smaller" wire to
the shorted light - before the fuse/cb opens. Thus, there is zero chance of
"melting" 16 ga wire or its insulation - there just isn't going to be enough
"dwell time" of the heat, or duration of the heat to hurt anything.
So, I think Cy and Paul are correct - in this particular design being
discussed.
If we were to talk in more general terms, I still think a wire need not be
sized to carry the continuous load of the fuse/cb protecting it - a short
will draw many more amps than the fuse/cb will tolerate and the protective
device will open, protecting the small wire before it has time to heat or
melt insulation. Time is the issue that I am raising.
Am I missing something? Is it possible that we may be seeing a recitation
of a bit of dogma? That said, I don't mean any disrespect for anyone taking
the other view when I use the word "dogma". I recognize that there may be
more "science or physics" (as 'lectric Bob is wont to say) than I'm aware
of.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring question
>
> Since the bulb only draws 7.5 amps, your wiring to that bulb only needs to
> carry 7.5 amps. Not the total. The feed to the switch needs to carry the
> total.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Wiring question
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> For you electrical wizards I have a question. In my RV-4 I installed two
> 100 amp halogen landing lamps in each wing tip. These lights will be
wired
> to one switch and one CB. Each light draws about 7 to 7.5 amps according
to
> my calculations for a total of say 15 amps. I have used 14 ga into and
out
> of the switch and CB which is adequate for up to 17 amps in a bundle. But
I
> may have erred in the separate wiring out in the wings going to the
lights.
> I used 16 ga. Do you need the 14 ga wire to each lamp when each lamp
draws
> 7.5 amps but the whole system draws 15 amps?
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ernie billing <ebilling(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on selecting tools |
Watch EBay for pneumatic squeezers. I got a Chicago
Pneumatic 214 a few months ago for $150. At the time
there were four up for sale. There was one on there
last week.
Search for "rivet" and you'll find all kinds of stuff.
If you keep your eyes open you'll likely find a good
deal.
Ernie Billing
1976 C177RG N55HS
RV7 Emp in progress
San Luis Obispo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator...or not |
I had the same question, and even had already mounted one. But after
talking to the AFP folks took it off. There are three filters in the
system, including the big black one. You don't need a gascolator.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ flying
Seattle area
>
>I have an Airflow Performance injected IO-360 from Aerosport. It comes
>with an Airflow fuel pump and FILTER and says that it is the only filter
>you need,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
Gert
Everything sounds OK except, why drop the wing spar attach below
the fuelage spar attach. You were high before, now you are at the
other extreme. I realize I screwed up, but putting it even at the bottom
would be as good as you are going to get for edge distance. Just
slightly up would give sufficient edge distances with careful measuring.
Factory pilot holes would make this tougher if the holes need to be
higher for proper edge distance.
I believe you are correct that the front horizontal attach would have
to be raised to compensate for the wing attach being lowered. I had
to raise mine 3/32 inch to get the horns lined up in solo level flight. It
would of taken more if the wing had been lowered. I had to also
shim the verticle spar to fuselage attach to keep the spar straight after
shimming the stabalizer. It would have required even more shim there
or changing the front verticle attach point to keep things lined up.
Leaving the fuselage spars untapered would certainly make things
easier. Also I believe a reamer should always be used on this hole.
If done again I would just be more careful. I should have touch
drilled thru the pilot hole and checked the edge distance. All in all
it was not that big of a deal to fix. Not that I would want to do it
again.
George Meketa RV-8 89 hours
> Steve
>
> I just did mine, here some thoughts.....
>
> I originally set the incidence as stated in the manual, using the manual
> methods, nothing wrong here.
>
> When all was set acc. to specs, I found that the left rear spar sat
> higher in the rear spar attach point than the right side. right side I
> had room to spare.
>
> didn't want to dril the left spar as is, and posted to the list and to
> Van's. All advice was similar, drop the left wing rear till I was
> getting the minumum edge distance comfortably. Van's and I kinda laughed
> when we talked about digital levels here, life before the digital level
> was soooo much easier when setting the wings ;-)
>
> Now, as mentioned somewhere else, there is almost no room for error
> here. If I build another -8, I *WOULD NOT* taper the rear spar attach
> point. Yes, I measured my taper and it is (luckily) tapered less than
> the plans call for.
>
> Moved the left wing rear spar down enough so the bottom of the rear spar
> was like 1/32" - 1/16" below the rear spar attach point. This way I
> could measure all edge distances from the rear attach point. Then I set
> the right wing incidence to match the left wing (About everybody's
> suggestion incl. van's)
>
> Now I drew lines 5/8" in from all edges, if all works out okay you will
> end up with a safe area to drill in. My advice is to go to the
> horizontal center of the safe zone and slightly vertical inboard.
> Inboard because there will be more edge distance the closer you get to
> the fuse because of the taper.
>
> Now put a center punch and carefully drill with a long #40 or so. Once
> you have drilled the hole, measure and measure again.
>
> Just keep drilling bigger and bigger holes, *AND KEEP MEASURING*, holes
> do wander a bit. Make sure your drilll is perpendicular.
>
> One thing I ran into on my first hole was that the air drill tended to
> bite and get stuck on anything approaching 1/4" drills, i had to use my
> stronger, electric dril to get a clean hole. everytime the air drill
> bit, the drill would jerk sideways, not conducive to round holes. going
> to a stronger drill eliminated this problem.
>
> I feel my attach holes are farely tight, however, if there is a next
> time I would drill undersize and ream to a close fit. Don't want that
> point to rattle ;-)
>
> Now, things to ponder, by LOWERING the BACK of the wing down I should
> theoretically RAISE the FRONT of the horizontal stab. I believe the wing
> and stab should be in the same horizontal plane, plus or minus the
> preset offset angle.
> The rear of the horizontal stab is fixed ( 4 bolts) but the front has
> spacers i could shim if i had to.
>
> Anybody care to confirm this ???
>
>
> Gert
>
>
> Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
> >
> > I am not at the point of attaching the wings, but the recent thread on
the
> > rear spar bolt hole location issue has me wondering about avoiding a
> > problem. The manual is clear that this is a critical hole and advises
> > checking and rechecking, but people are still reporting problems. I'm
> > seeking advice on exactly how to check hole position. Does a person
drill
> > #40 and remove the wings? Other ideas?
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> > RV-8 fuse bulkheads
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | canopy frame hold open block |
The plans show a 1/2" square hold half way open block for the canopy. How is
this attached to the rail? Is it necessary or useful?
Wayne
RV8A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
VGhpcyB3b3VsZCBwcm9iYWJseSBiZSB0cnVlIGZvciBhIGRpcmVjdCBzaG9ydCBpbiBhIERDIGNp
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PGRjYXJ0ZXJAZGF0YXJlY2FsbC5uZXQ+DQoJDQoJSWYgd2Ugd2VyZSB0byB0YWxrIGluIG1vcmUg
Z2VuZXJhbCB0ZXJtcywgSSBzdGlsbCB0aGluayBhIHdpcmUNCm5lZWQgbm90IGJlDQoJc2l6ZWQg
dG8gY2FycnkgdGhlIGNvbnRpbnVvdXMgbG9hZCBvZiB0aGUgZnVzZS9jYiBwcm90ZWN0aW5nIGl0
DQotIGEgc2hvcnQNCgl3aWxsIGRyYXcgbWFueSBtb3JlIGFtcHMgdGhhbiB0aGUgZnVzZS9jYiB3
aWxsIHRvbGVyYXRlIGFuZCB0aGUNCnByb3RlY3RpdmUNCglkZXZpY2Ugd2lsbCBvcGVuLCBwcm90
ZWN0aW5nIHRoZSBzbWFsbCB3aXJlIGJlZm9yZSBpdCBoYXMgdGltZQ0KdG8gaGVhdCBvcg0KCW1l
bHQgaW5zdWxhdGlvbi4gIFRpbWUgaXMgdGhlIGlzc3VlIHRoYXQgSSBhbSByYWlzaW5nLg0KCQ0K
DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | T/O with flaps... |
Has anyone done any real testing to determine the results of using flaps on
takeoff?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 28 hrs
http://vondane.com/rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Access Panel Screws - beating a dead horse |
Just another data point in the whole tank attach screws conversation...
I used screws from http://www.mcmaster.com/ - part number 91720A194.
These are hex head stainless grade 316. This grade of stainless is commonly
used in industrial applications were high resistance to corrosive materials
is required. It's also used in marine applications as well.
I figured that if I need to pull the access caps on these tanks in a few
years to replace the senders that it would be nice if the heads were still
in good shape.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
Headed for the paint shop...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Daniels" <jdaniels114(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Access Panel Screws
>
> On Monday, June 24, 2002, at 04:36 PM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks for the tip, Don. Just ordered a pack of 100 for $6.71. In case
> > anybody else wants the nitty-gritty details:
> >
> > 18-8 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screw 8-32 Thread X 1/2" Length
> > Part # 92949A194
> > $6.71 for a pack of 100
>
> Another alternative if you want a little more pedigree is part number
> 92200A194 - Military Specification Socket HD Cap Screw 8-32 Thread, 1/2"
> Length, MS16995-26 $4.74 PK (of 10 - jwd)
>
>
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=284&FT_518=4938
6&
> FT_255=22657&FT_136=2864110=284;518=49386;255=22657;136=2864
>
> Probably comes out of the same bin, but with a x10 price!!
>
> Jim Daniels
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a great
guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
factory.
Have they gone out of business?
Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
Many thanks in advance,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
I just posted some pictures of, and info about my recently completed
seats...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/interior/
-Bill
RV-8A -28 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator...or not |
Would this also apply to the Ellison TBI? Which best as I can tell is a
hybrid between a carb and a fuel injector.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>
> Scott, here are some thoughts. A gascolator is designed primarily to
> separate water from the fuel. Small amounts of water in a carburator
> can really be bad news, as its viscosity is so much higher than fuel
> that it might not be sucked through (surface tension at the interface
> between air and water is the more correct variable to compare, but let's
> leave it at viscosity for now). With fuel injection, the problem of
> surface tension doesn't really arise, since the fuel (or water) is
> crammed under pressure through the system, and nowhere is there a
> water/air interface being motivated by small pressures. Even a cup (8
> oz) of water will be pumped through in a matter of about 15-30 seconds
> at full throttle, and a cup is an absurd amount of water.
>
> Anyway, I think Don Rivera at A/P is correct in suggesting that with FI
> one does not need a gascolator.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 163 hours
>
> >
> > I have an Airflow Performance injected IO-360 from Aerosport.
> > It comes with an Airflow fuel pump and FILTER and says that
> > it is the only filter you need, but also states that if used
> > with a gascolator, that the gascolator should be at the
> > lowest point in the system(which it will not be as the
> > Airflow fuel filter mounts on the cockpit floor and the
> > colator will be slightly above this on the firewall.) Is a
> > gascolator needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use
> > a gascolator on their injected engines.
> >
> > Any Thoughts
> > Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
>
>
>I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
>and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a
>great
>guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
>factory.
>
>Have they gone out of business?
>
>Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
>looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
>Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
>
>Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
>
>Many thanks in advance,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A
Jim,
PACIFIC AERO HARNESS! First rate quality, all milspec hardware, and
extremely durable. I have them in my -8 and love 'em. Rob Huntsinger is a
super nice guy and will make sure you're pleased with them. He's an RV-4
driver so he's "one of us".
Website is: http://home.att.net/~robh/
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
293 hrs.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
Meketa wrote:
>
> Gert
>
> Everything sounds OK except, why drop the wing spar attach below
> the fuelage spar attach. You were high before, now you are at the
> other extreme.
George
I went back and looked at the rear attach point. you know 1/32" is about
a pencil stripe's width, it's also the radius on the rear spar attach
points. My right one now sticks out downward considerably more.
next time I would drill my holes even closer to the fuse, within the
5/8" rule of course, as that would have given me more edge distance.
maybe I would have done that if :
A:
measure twice
b:
leave and drink your favorite drink
c:
measure and look, engage extra braincells and observe taper.
d:
drill hole
e:
USE REAMER
Yes if you make them even on the bottom (don't forget the taper inthe
equasion here) you should be okay too with carefull measurement.
then again 1/16" drop did not make 0.1 degree on a didital scale.
I still think NOT tapering the rear attach point would make a lot of
sence to give better edge distance.
and yes, I am okay, I got some room to spare.
Gert
---------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
Jim,
I ordered mine directly from Hooker. It's been a long time since then; I've
been flying my bird for 19 months, but I don't remember a long delay. Why not
give them a call? (815) 233-5478.
Good Luck and best wishes,
Jack Abell
Jim Andrews wrote:
>
> I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
> and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a great
> guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
> factory.
>
> Have they gone out of business?
>
> Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
> looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
>
> Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T/O with flaps... |
Err... not really testing. But, I did discover the RV-6A will take off just
fine with full flaps and hardly any noticable difference until you get to
around 80-85mph and then the typical acceleration slows to a crawl.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
Subject: RV-List: T/O with flaps...
>
> Has anyone done any real testing to determine the results of using flaps
on
> takeoff?
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - 28 hrs
> http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Sorry about the earlier post in code. I seem to have a problem posting
messages using Microsoft OWA. Anyone have a similar experience or any
ideas on solving the problem? Matt, any ideas?
Anyway, below was what I was trying to post.
If we were to talk in more general terms, I still think a wire need not
be
sized to carry the continuous load of the fuse/cb protecting it - a
short
will draw many more amps than the fuse/cb will tolerate and the
protective
device will open, protecting the small wire before it has time to heat
or
melt insulation. Time is the issue that I am raising.
------------------------------------
This would probably be true for a direct short in a DC circuit, but how
about a simple overload? In a situation with one lamp burned out (no
current draw) the other circuit could exceed the capacity of the wire
before tripping the breaker.
I say probably true for a DC circuit because it's definitely not true
for AC circuits, especially high voltage ones. After working on Navy
ships for many years in the propulsion plants, I've seen many times
where the wiring, bus bars, etc. have melted or simply varporized long
before the upstream breaker tripped. But, with three phase AC circuits
we're talking about different dynamics.
Yes, the above scenario would require several things to be wrong at the
same time, but isn't that how most serious incidents occur--a chain of
events.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Strong" <gstrong(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Quickbuild Kit for Sale |
Just an fyi :
I'm selling a Van's Aircraft RV-6A Quickbuild kit purchased in July 2000
on Ebay. The item number is 1839120531 and the link is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=183912053
1> &item=1839120531.
I've included a scanned invoice for actual description of included items
and options. I've got only about 100 hours of work done on it so far
with mostly time spent on sheet metal work such as seats, floor, flaps,
etc. Wings are still crated as delivered from factory. Its been
inspected by a local EAA technical advisor (who is a retired A&P/AI)
with no problems or concerns. No tools are included. Kit is in
Minneapolis, MN
Thanks,
Gary S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
Thanks for the number. I gave them a call.
Sounds like supplier shortages have caused significant delays in production.
The old boy I talked to is sorting through his pile of back orders looking
for mine as I type. I'm hopeful that this will be resolved soon. These are
top of the line belts, it would be a shame to have to settle for less.
Good to know that you can order them factory direct. I did not know this.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker belts "whats going on???"
>
> Jim,
>
> I ordered mine directly from Hooker. It's been a long time since then;
I've
> been flying my bird for 19 months, but I don't remember a long delay. Why
not
> give them a call? (815) 233-5478.
>
> Good Luck and best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
>
> Jim Andrews wrote:
>
> >
> > I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks
ago
> > and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a
great
> > guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
> > factory.
> >
> > Have they gone out of business?
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
> > looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> > Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
> >
> > Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
> >
> > Many thanks in advance,
> >
> > - Jim Andrews
> > RV-8A
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Rear spar bolt hole - major problem |
Scott,
It sounds to me like your friend is asking the question many times to get
the answer he wants. He's already asked the kit manufacturer, who surely
knows more than most if not all, and got an answer he didn't like. Now he's
asking the list? What if we, as a group, tell him that it's OK to press on
with the hole as it is? What are our qualifications for a structural
decision? I have an engineering degree, and I taught aerodynamics for the
Air Force. That's just enough to know that I don't begin to have the kind
of knowledge/information to make the correct decision. I know there are
some actual, real-life aero engineers on this list. But have they sat down
to do the proper analysis to know if your friend's SPECIFIC situation would
be safe under the expected loads, and cycles? I doubt that any PE's would
offer the advice to fly it as it is. And what if your well-meaning A&P's
and "computer nerds" are wrong, and the hole fails at some point in time?
You can't re-boot at altitude.
Seems to me your friend has made his decision and wants to find others to
agree with him. That's fine. After all, he is the manufacturer, and can do
what he wants. But as such, he has a responsibility to anyone that flys
with him to give them the safest ride possible. A couple of years ago, a
colleague of mine killed himself in an RV-3. He was out doing acro and the
wings failed. The spar mod was on the floor of his hangar awaiting
installation. Reportedly (as I wasn't there) the most moving tribute to him
at his funeral was given by his wife. She was eight months pregnant.
Just my .02$
Keith
RV-6 finish
Denver
>
> I am posting this for a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. Recently,
> while fitting the wings to his RV-8 he found that he had drilled the hole
on
> the rear spar of his left hand wing too low, thus violating the edge
> distance by between 1/16 - 1/32". Local A&Ps, engineers (not aerospace)
and
> even a computer nerd or two looked at it and said, "Just fly it."
>
> My friend called Van's and asked them for advice. Their advice was not to
> fly it in that condition because it was just too "iffy."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring question
>
> I think I've seen this race car come around the track several times now -
I
> need to clarify something.
>
> Paul and Cy say that the wire to each individual light needs to be sized
for
> the normal current of 1 bulb, not the total current that the CB or fuse
will
> be rated at (carrying current for both lights).
>
> Todd & Charlie say that the wire to each light needs to be large enough to
> carry the current that the CB or fuse will permit to go thru.
>
> The way I see it, with a single CB or fuse feeding the two wires going to
> the two lights: With no short circuit, both bulbs will be burning 7.5
amps,
> plus or minus according to voltage in system as pointed out by later
> e-mails. Thus, the fuse/CB is running right at its limit (might want to
> make it a 17 or 20 amp fuse/cb to prevent nuisance trips with in rush
> current - we can fix that during testing after wiring)
You'll find that you don't need much extra capacity of a circuit breaker to
handle the inrush current of a lamp. The inrush only lasts a fraction of a
second and a circuit breaker doesn't react instantly. Fuses are a little
faster but you still would have to heat the fuse up faster than you heat the
filiment up and this is not likely. Now if we were talking about a motor
this would be different.
> - Now, we introduce a short in the circuit going to 1 of the lights:
> The fuse or cb is already near its limit - there will only be another 5
amps
> or so (not much more) allowed thru the fuse/cb - and the "smaller" wire to
> the shorted light - before the fuse/cb opens. Thus, there is zero chance
of
> "melting" 16 ga wire or its insulation - there just isn't going to be
enough
> "dwell time" of the heat, or duration of the heat to hurt anything.
>
> So, I think Cy and Paul are correct - in this particular design being
> discussed.
>
> If we were to talk in more general terms, I still think a wire need not be
> sized to carry the continuous load of the fuse/cb protecting it - a short
> will draw many more amps than the fuse/cb will tolerate and the protective
> device will open, protecting the small wire before it has time to heat or
> melt insulation. Time is the issue that I am raising.
>
> Am I missing something? Is it possible that we may be seeing a recitation
> of a bit of dogma? That said, I don't mean any disrespect for anyone
taking
> the other view when I use the word "dogma". I recognize that there may
be
> more "science or physics" (as 'lectric Bob is wont to say) than I'm aware
> of.
Circuit breakers and fuses are installed to protect the wire. This is the
rule whether you are building an airplane, a house or any other electrical
device. You're assumption is that the only failure mode is one of a direct
short. You can have a failure where there is a partial short (or more
likely intermittent short). Say you have two 16ga wires and a 20A CB as you
have described. The 16 ga wire is good for about 10 or 12 Amps in a bundle
(I don't have my chart with me at the moment so this is a guess but still
good for the arguement.) Now if you have a failure that creates a current
of 18A. You will melt the wire or worse burn the wire before the CB pops.
Any wire that is downstream of a CB/Fuse needs to be sized to carry the full
current of the CB/Fuse BY ITSELF.
You are also assuming that the other lamp is going to help you by keeping
the circuit 'near it's limit'. Which means the wire you have only need
carry the other 12 1/2 Amps before the CB/fuse will blow. This is true but
are you never going to turn that lamp off? Will it not burn out? If you
are flying around during the day with the lights off and you have a short
before the switch (I didn't notice whether you had one or two switches) that
carries 18A then you have fried a wire.
Fried wires are seldom isolated occurrences they tend to fry other wires as
they go. They melt insulation and short out other circuits. The wires will
burn in the places where the heat is less likely to escape and that is where
there are other wires around. I learned these lessons the hard way once as
a teenager wiring up too much stuff into a vehicle. An electrical fire out
in the middle of nowhere woke me up. I had sized the fuses for the devices
not the wire. I don't ever want to have that kind of excitment in my
airplane.
The only exception to this rule is when you are building a buss. These need
not be circuit protected at all because they are sized to handle more load
than the device that is supplying the energy can possibly deliver. In our
case this would be the battery/alternator.
I must ask why you don't want to install another fuse for the other light?
It would be a simple matter to have two 10A fuses/CB's and then you can
easily run the 16ga wire and now you don't have one circuit protection
device that would kill all of your light.
>
> David Carter
>
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
In a message dated 6/25/2002 7:13:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
> and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a
> great
> guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
> factory.
>
> Have they gone out of business?
>
> Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
> looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
>
> Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A
>
Try Simpson there of good quality and priced right. Delivery is about 2 weeks
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
Brian,
Good to hear from you man. I'm on the hook with hooker for about another
day. If they don't call me back by this afternoon, I'm all over Pacific
Aero. Thanks for the tip. Your word is a good enough recommendation for
me.
Thx,
- Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker belts "whats going on???"
>
>
> >
> >
> >I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks
ago
> >and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a
> >great
> >guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
> >factory.
> >
> >Have they gone out of business?
> >
> >Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
> >looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> >Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
> >
> >Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
> >
> >Many thanks in advance,
> >
> >- Jim Andrews
> >RV-8A
>
>
> Jim,
>
> PACIFIC AERO HARNESS! First rate quality, all milspec hardware, and
> extremely durable. I have them in my -8 and love 'em. Rob Huntsinger is
a
> super nice guy and will make sure you're pleased with them. He's an RV-4
> driver so he's "one of us".
>
> Website is: http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 293 hrs.
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
I can second Brian's recommendation of Pacific Aero Harness. They're part of
the reason I'm still here. They'll go back in the Phoenix, rewebbed of
course.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar
> quality? I'm
> >looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> >Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
> >
> >Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
> >
> >Many thanks in advance,
> >
> >- Jim Andrews
> >RV-8A
>
>
> Jim,
>
> PACIFIC AERO HARNESS! First rate quality, all milspec hardware, and
> extremely durable. I have them in my -8 and love 'em. Rob
> Huntsinger is a
> super nice guy and will make sure you're pleased with them.
> He's an RV-4
> driver so he's "one of us".
>
> Website is: http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 293 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avoiding rear spar bolt hole problem |
>
>
>Now, things to ponder, by LOWERING the BACK of the wing down I should
>theoretically RAISE the FRONT of the horizontal stab. I believe the wing
>and stab should be in the same horizontal plane, plus or minus the
>preset offset angle.
>The rear of the horizontal stab is fixed ( 4 bolts) but the front has
>spacers i could shim if i had to.
>
>Anybody care to confirm this ???
>
>
>Gert
Gert,
Yes, you should raise the front of the HS to keep the correct angular
difference between the wing and HS.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Rear spar bolt hole - major problem |
I am not an engineer, but I agree with you Kieth, In the length of time this
discussion has been on here, Changes could have been made and the wing bolted
into place. Take out a few rivets and shoot in a few new ones. Well maybe a lot
of them, but you can't wish them out and in. I have drilled out quite a few in
my project, and will no doubt do more before it flies.
Phil Sisson Litchfield, IL
Keith Hughes wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> It sounds to me like your friend is asking the question many times to get
> the answer he wants. He's already asked the kit manufacturer, who surely
> knows more than most if not all, and got an answer he didn't like. Now he's
> asking the list? What if we, as a group, tell him that it's OK to press on
> with the hole as it is? What are our qualifications for a structural
> decision? I have an engineering degree, and I taught aerodynamics for the
> Air Force. That's just enough to know that I don't begin to have the kind
> of knowledge/information to make the correct decision. I know there are
> some actual, real-life aero engineers on this list. But have they sat down
> to do the proper analysis to know if your friend's SPECIFIC situation would
> be safe under the expected loads, and cycles? I doubt that any PE's would
> offer the advice to fly it as it is. And what if your well-meaning A&P's
> and "computer nerds" are wrong, and the hole fails at some point in time?
> You can't re-boot at altitude.
>
> Seems to me your friend has made his decision and wants to find others to
> agree with him. That's fine. After all, he is the manufacturer, and can do
> what he wants. But as such, he has a responsibility to anyone that flys
> with him to give them the safest ride possible. A couple of years ago, a
> colleague of mine killed himself in an RV-3. He was out doing acro and the
> wings failed. The spar mod was on the floor of his hangar awaiting
> installation. Reportedly (as I wasn't there) the most moving tribute to him
> at his funeral was given by his wife. She was eight months pregnant.
>
> Just my .02$
>
> Keith
> RV-6 finish
> Denver
>
>
> >
> > I am posting this for a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. Recently,
> > while fitting the wings to his RV-8 he found that he had drilled the hole
> on
> > the rear spar of his left hand wing too low, thus violating the edge
> > distance by between 1/16 - 1/32". Local A&Ps, engineers (not aerospace)
> and
> > even a computer nerd or two looked at it and said, "Just fly it."
> >
> > My friend called Van's and asked them for advice. Their advice was not to
> > fly it in that condition because it was just too "iffy."
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | W&B Excel Spreadsheet |
I have made my W&B Spreadsheet available for download on my site... You can
get it at the link below if your interested...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/N8WV-W&B.xls
I am also working on one that you can use on your iPAQ...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
It took about 10 weeks to get mine. I saw them at sun n fun after about 6
weeks, and asked what was up, he immeadiatly said "did you order the rotary
buckle?". They are having troubles with some of their suppliers.
They were worth the wait.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Andrews
Subject: RV-List: Hooker belts "whats going on???"
I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a great
guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
factory.
Have they gone out of business?
Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
Many thanks in advance,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T/O with flaps... |
Bill,
I haven't done formal testing but have used 10 degrees of flaps on T/O. It
signifiacntly reduced the T/O roll I think to around 300 feet. You will need
to put in some extra nose down trip. It was cetatinly controlible even with
normal T/O trime setting just extra pressure on the stick.
Chuck
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
>rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: T/O with flaps...
>Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:45:25 +0000
>
>
>Has anyone done any real testing to determine the results of using flaps on
>takeoff?
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - 28 hrs
>http://vondane.com/rv8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
> I'm on the hook with hooker for about another
> day. If they don't call me back by this afternoon, I'm all over Pacific
> Aero. Thanks for the tip. Your word is a good enough recommendation for
> me.
>
> Thx,
- Jim
Jim,
FWIW, I have Pacific Aero harnesses and they work great. They are not as
flashy as Hooker's with the nice pads, but they're rugged, well made, and a
great value. I had red tabs put on the loosening buckle, and yellow tabs
sewn on the strap. That way I tell passengers "yellow to tighten, red to
loosen"...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-528x.jpg
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 185 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
They have had supplier shortages for a while now. I ordered mine about a
year ago, and they had shortages then. I think it took about 2 months or so
to get them. They are definately worth the wait, though. My next airplane
will have Hooker Harnesses in them as well. Even if I have to wait 4
months! I know someone with some extra Van's seatbelts they would probably
sell for cheap if you need belts now.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
Good news!
Looks like I will have my belts sometime in the next week or so. Many
thanks to the folks at Hooker and the folks at Team Rocket for the good
customer service. Be advised that it might take a little longer that
advertised to get your harnesses if you go the Hooker route. I don't mind
the wait as long as I'm prepared for it.
Thanks to all for the input. Sounds like Pacific Aero is a pretty good way
to go as well. Maybe on my next RV.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( painting soon )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal amount. |
I used about 6 kits of the B2 sealant (available from Aircraft Spruce), and
one whole kit of regular Proseal. That stuff will come in handy for lots of
other things, too. I got the regular stuff in case I had a little job...no
need to mix up a whole tube of B2 for something small.
Jim Bower
RV-6A
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kamloops,BC - Hear we come! |
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Listers,
My wife and I are heading to Kamloops,BC for a visit to Aero Sport Power so my
engine can see it's birthplace. We should arrive in Kamloops on 2nd or 3rd of
July. If my wife gets her way she wants to stay in the area long enough to
attend the EAA flyin in Arlington. Soooo, if anybody is interested in a visit
from Colorado RVators drop us a line.
Also is there anything special I should know about flying in Canada?
I have all the customs info and such. I understand that any flights greater than
25 nm need a flight plan, is this true. Any hints or tricks would be warmly
recieved.
We're leaving Denver on Saturday the 29th with the first destination planned for
Port Townsend, WA (0S9). If anyone has any great places to see along the route
please let me know. This is a very loosley planned trip just to get out of town
(and away from work) so any input is welcome.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | PANCAKE BREAKFAST Oswego NY Sunday July 14th, 2002 |
PANCAKE BREAKFAST Oswego NY Sunday July 14th, 2002, EAA486 will host its regular
monthly pancake breakfast. (2nd Sunday's of the month) If you haven't been
to one of these you don't know what you are missing.
Open for all Drive-ins, Fly ins.....every one is welcome.
(to all our northern friends...unfortunately Customs will NOT be on the field this
weekend, clear customs with other entry proceedures accordingly).
Oswego County Airport, Fulton, New York (KFZY).
Other info...the Web site link at:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/index.html
Oswego County Airport: (KFZY) is uncontrolled and can have no-radio traffic in
the pattern. KFZY is just over the 10 mile Radius of 2 nuclear power plants,
and TFR's may effect which runway you are using, be briefed accordingly please.
Traffic pattern is 1300' msl. Please use normal pattern/radio call procedures
and as always be careful! 24hr Self serve 100LL is available.
FOR THOSE DRIVING IN:
The airport is 45 minutes northwest of Syracuse. Take I-481 to Fulton, turn Right
on RT 3 at WENDY's, then go left onto RT 176 (see green DOT airport sign),
now just 2 miles out of town on Route 176 to the Northeast. The EAA hangar is
past the main airport road is on the Northwest side of the airport.
Enter the NEW LOCATION gate/fence at the EAA sign, directly behind the hanger now.
Questions? Feel free to email me back in this subject line (or McMand(at)aol.com)
so I won't miss it in the daily RV list mass emails.
Thanks, Respectfully
David McManmon
President, EAA 486 Oswego Co...
Chairman, EAA 486 2002 RV Forum
N58DM RV6 Builder/Pilot
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kamloops,BC - BE CAREFULL! |
Gary;
Be real careful of the TFRs here in Washington. We have four of them, and
one right next to Port Townsend. One not too far from Arlington too. Be
sure and plot all four of them out on a chart and know their
boundaries. If you violate one you'll flat out loose your license for a
while, no questions asked. And you run the risk of being shot down if you
fly through the one at the Bangor sub base.
Everyone coming to Arlington needs to know about these.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
Seattle area
>
>Listers,
>
>My wife and I are heading to Kamloops,BC with the first destination
>planned for
>Port Townsend, WA (0S9).
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kamloops,BC - Hear we come! |
> Also is there anything special I should know about flying in Canada?
>
> I have all the customs info and such. I understand that any flights
greater than
> 25 nm need a flight plan, is this true. Any hints or tricks would be
warmly
> recieved.
>
> We're leaving Denver on Saturday the 29th with the first destination
planned for
> Port Townsend, WA (0S9). If anyone has any great places to see along the
route
> please let me know. This is a very loosley planned trip just to get out of
town
> (and away from work) so any input is welcome.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A
Gary,
First off, the Bangor TFR is very near Pt.Townsend, be careful and make sure
you're aware of exactly where it is. The AOPA web site has graphics on it.
If you're be cruising around the Puget Sound area (Seattle) be advised there
are three other TFRs as well.
Regarding Canada, I've been up there three times in the last four weeks, and
plan to fly yet another local builder up to Bart's place on 7/3 (been there
once already this year). Randall Henderson has compiled a great checklist
with all the correct and current data and posted it to our group's web site.
Go to...
www.edt.com/homewing/international/index.html
Regarding other neat places, lunch or dinner on the deck at Roche Harbor,
about a 15 minute hop from 0S9), is simply beyond words on a nice day.
(http://www.airnav.com/airport/WA09) But don't tell anyone, we don't want
it getting overly crowded. ;-)
Have a great flight, and enjoy our part of the country!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 185 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: BE CAREFULL! TFR's |
After finding out that the TFR';s are updated daily for the Anywhere Map
software I ordered the software for my Ipaq. I will give it a try this
weekend and will let everyone know how well it works.
Rob Hickman
RV4 N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
In the next 4 weeks, no later than OSHKOSH, I will pull the trigger on
buying the EFIS-One from Blue Mountain. If I don't feel justified in
doing so,in that time span, I will go another route.
As this is quite expensive and as there is little or no history on the
unit, I am asking for input from those that may have 'gone before'.
I know SB is working hard on the 'Lite' unit.
How many have bought the 'One'?
Is anyone flying with it?
Is it wrung out, in your opinion ?
What are your hopes and speculations?
Several weeks ago, I talked with Greg, from Blue Mountain, and he said
he will have units for sale at OSH.
Today he sent me an email and said he is 'shipping' the auto pilot
units.
It looks kool. It is the wave of the future. Is it's time now?
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BE CAREFULL! TFR's |
>
>After finding out that the TFR';s are updated daily for the Anywhere Map
>software I ordered the software for my Ipaq. I will give it a try this
>weekend and will let everyone know how well it works.
>
>
>Rob Hickman
>RV4 N401RH
Speaking of TFR's, there are LOTS of them around the southwest fires. New
Mexico, Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah...all have them. Here in
Albuquerque, we have no fires (yet), but have the haziest, brownest skies
I've ever seen here. The Sandia mountains on the east side of the city are
just about invisible from the smoke. Anyone flying cross country through
this area needs to be extra careful to avoid the TFR's and take the
visibility reports as gospel truth.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ceramic Exhaust Coatings |
IF the ceramic coating is 100% efficient, and it includes the exhaust pipe
area under the heat muff, the heat muff wouldn't work at all.
Has anyone measured the temperature difference through their heat muff,
before and after ceramic coating?
This would be one way to determine the efficiency of the ceramic coating.
I've been told that if a crack develops in the exhaust pipe that is ceramic
coated, the cracked area CANNOT be repaired (welded) because of the ceramic
coating.
Anyone know if that is really true?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Listers,
We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Kamloops,BC - Hear we come! |
I'll recommend three places in the Lower Mainland to stop in at, not
sure what your schedule's like but in an RV you could easily hit all
three of them in one day if you wanted to... 8-)
Delta Heritage Airpark (CAK3) - Grass strip, 2600'. Hard as a rock
right now, we haven't had rain in weeks. Uncontrolled, no tower, but
watch out for the Boundary Bay (CZBB) control zone that extends overtop
above 1000'ASL. Lots of great conversation with local pilots, if you
have the time. Coffee Shop and Fuel on the field, but the Coffee Shop
isn't an active restaurant anymore, there's just coffee/cookies/donuts
by donation. http://home.istar.ca/~bb4/ for info.
Langley Airport (CYNJ) - Both Grass (2800'?) and Paved (2000') strips.
Control tower. Probably the highest concentration of flying RV's on one
field in the lower mainland. Somewhere near 10, everything from a
modified RV-4 (okay, okay, it's a Harmon Rocket) to an RV-9A. A few
under construction as well. Most are in hangars, but if the weather is
nice you'll likely find a few outside playing.
Chilliwack (CYCW) - Paved strip, something like 4000' long.
Uncontrolled. By far the *best*pie*anywhere*in*BC*. Fly in for a
slice, you won't regret it.
The identifiers should be enough to find them in your database, if not
email me off-list and i'll scan you the pages out of my Flight
Supplement so you can get waypoint coordinates.
-RB4
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> My wife and I are heading to Kamloops,BC for a visit to Aero Sport Power so my
> engine can see it's birthplace. We should arrive in Kamloops on 2nd or 3rd of
> July. If my wife gets her way she wants to stay in the area long enough to
> attend the EAA flyin in Arlington. Soooo, if anybody is interested in a visit
> from Colorado RVators drop us a line.
>
> Also is there anything special I should know about flying in Canada?
>
> I have all the customs info and such. I understand that any flights greater than
> 25 nm need a flight plan, is this true. Any hints or tricks would be warmly
> recieved.
>
> We're leaving Denver on Saturday the 29th with the first destination planned
for
> Port Townsend, WA (0S9). If anyone has any great places to see along the route
> please let me know. This is a very loosley planned trip just to get out of town
> (and away from work) so any input is welcome.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B Excel Spreadsheet |
Bill,
How do I copy this to put on my computer? When I try to save it with "Save
As" I am asked for a username and password. When I select and copy the
page, the graph is missing.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: W&B Excel Spreadsheet
>
> I have made my W&B Spreadsheet available for download on my site... You
can
> get it at the link below if your interested...
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/N8WV-W&B.xls
>
> I am also working on one that you can use on your iPAQ...
>
> -Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Don't go on if you're squeamish about disposal of human remains.
This is a difficult proposition in any airplane. For one thing, you have to
make sure that the ashes disperse clear of your airplane, the ash is very
abrasive and sometimes the bones are not ground completely. This can make a
real mess of your HS. Sticking your arm out the window and just emptying
the bag doesn't work real well as the ashes tend to blow back in the window
and they don't taste very good. Plus it's really easy to just drop the bag
- bag and ashes just hit the ground with a dull thud.
The guys that specialize in this usually have some sort of dispersal hopper
that cures these problems. A friend of mine has an enclosed hopper in his
plane, with a 3 in scat tube on the bottom, at the end of the scat is a long
pipe with the end cut at an angle to produce a sort of venturi effect. He
just opens the door a crack, sticks the pipe out, and then opens the
trap-door on the hopper. He says that works pretty well. We found that the
hopper needs to be closed on the top. That's also how we found that ashes
don't taste good. One wet-dry vac later and and a re-load of the hopper we
finally got it.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034(at)lafn.org]
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
Listers,
We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
I don't want to make light of your situation (my condolences), but I
know i've heard from many people who were asked to do the same thing...
If you want equal quantities of advice on how to do this without making
a mess of your aircraft, and hilarious stories about how to do this
*and* make a mess of your aircraft, go to groups.google.com, and drill
down to the newsgroup rec.aviation.*. Do a search in rec.aviation.* for
"scatter ashes".
There are sooooooooooooooooooo many funny stories about doing this, that
I could spend the next week re-typing them for you. Only after reading
them all could you even hope to get an idea what you should do, and by
the time you'd read them all, your eyes would be red with tears and your
sides in pain from laughing...
For what it's worth, here's my opinion: Start with a flexible clear
hose (you'll want to know it's working) of about 3/4" to 1" ID and about
10' long. Attach a plastic cone of about 4" diameter to the end of the
hose, so it looks like a funnel with a looooooong tail. Get up to
altitude, and hang the cone end out the window as far as it will go and
still leave you some length to work with in the cockpit (hold on
tight!). The cone will create a good vaccum in the hose, so open the
container carefully and use it to vaccuum the ashes out of the
container. Hopefully the 10' of hose will let the hose droop down low
enough that you don't spray your tailfeathers.
-RB4
PS - Once the ashes are out, get your passenger to use the hose to suck
out the dirt that's been building up on the floor of the cockpit.
PPS - Oh, and hold on tight to that hose... It's legal to dump ashes,
but I doubt it's legal to drop 10' of hose in someone's back yard... 8-)
PPPS - One final thing... Go rent a plane from your local FBO to do
this... If anything goes wrong (and you can bet that it will), you can
let *them* clean it when you get back... 8-)
Dave Bristol wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kitlog Pro" <info(at)kitlog.com> |
How about taking a piece of tubing and running it through the air vents to
the outside. The fast moving air on the outside of the tubing should create
a vacuum hose and you could disperse the ashes that way.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
>
> Listers,
>
> We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
Brian thanks for the link to Pacific Aero. Those are good looking belts.
I have a set used set of Hookers but they seem too bulky and too much hardware
on them that I dont need.
I also like the colors on yours. Nice photograph..
Phil Pitt's now, RV6 someday........
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I placed an order for a set of Hooker Harnesses for my 8A over 10 weeks ago
> >and still I have no delivery. I understand from my local supplier ( a
> >great
> >guy - not his fault ) that two weeks is the norm for turnaround from the
> >factory.
> >
> >Have they gone out of business?
> >
> >Can anyone recommend a equivalent manufacture of similar quality? I'm
> >looking for the military style, not the car variety that Van's sells.
> >Preferably someone who can deliver in my life time.
> >
> >Need some help here, I'm getting desperate.
> >
> >Many thanks in advance,
> >
> >- Jim Andrews
> >RV-8A
>
> Jim,
>
> PACIFIC AERO HARNESS! First rate quality, all milspec hardware, and
> extremely durable. I have them in my -8 and love 'em. Rob Huntsinger is a
> super nice guy and will make sure you're pleased with them. He's an RV-4
> driver so he's "one of us".
>
> Website is: http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 293 hrs.
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Listers,
>
>We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
>the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
>opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
>or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
>
>Dave
Dave,
First of all, I'm sorry to hear of your loss. To have my ashes sent
earthward from an RV would be my first choice of how I wish to spend
eternity as well. I'll have to update my will, I suppose.
For what it's worth, a local SNJ pilot died last year and his wife wanted
to spread his cremains from her SNJ (yes, his AND her warbirds). She
reported to me that they tried to do so from the back seat, and most of it
ended up inside the airplane. I guess the pressure differential or airflow
around the canopy makes it difficult to get such a lightweight substance to
clear the slipstream.
I hope someone can offer more RV specific assistance but I thought this
might offer some insight into the matter.
Again, my best wishes for your family in this difficult time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
How about temporarily hanging a venturi in the breeze (like from a relief tube
setup or one for instruments) which would suck the ashes out?
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> >the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> >opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> >or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
> >
> >Dave
>
> Dave,
>
> First of all, I'm sorry to hear of your loss. To have my ashes sent
> earthward from an RV would be my first choice of how I wish to spend
> eternity as well. I'll have to update my will, I suppose.
>
> For what it's worth, a local SNJ pilot died last year and his wife wanted
> to spread his cremains from her SNJ (yes, his AND her warbirds). She
> reported to me that they tried to do so from the back seat, and most of it
> ended up inside the airplane. I guess the pressure differential or airflow
> around the canopy makes it difficult to get such a lightweight substance to
> clear the slipstream.
>
> I hope someone can offer more RV specific assistance but I thought this
> might offer some insight into the matter.
>
> Again, my best wishes for your family in this difficult time.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Dave,
First let me covey my sympathy and best wishes.
The idea of spreading ashes as you describe is one that I have asked for
for my own return to the earth from whence I came.
Please!, be very careful about planning such an endeavor.
From what I have read about RVs and open canopies over the last five years I
would strongly advise that this not be tried at all under any
circumstances!! You do not want to be vacuuming your Dearly Departed out of
every nook and cranny of your RV's interior. that is IF! you where able to
get back down alive!
I do know of some folks that attempted to bid this kind of fond farewell off
the back of a ferry boat. That family member's departure will be remembered!
However with some good quality duct tape and a remote cable or a remote
control radio, a container could be temporarily attached to the lower
fuselage and be rigged to open at the pull of a pin or some such devise. for
added safety the mounting could utilize some of the screws that hold on an
antennae or the screws that attach the fuse to the wing.
be careful,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
>
> Listers,
>
> We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
No accident makes me shake my head more than this one which was printed in
GA News almost a year ago:
NTSB Identification: FTW98FA344 . The docket is stored in the (offline) NTSB
Imaging System.
Accident occurred Thursday, August 06, 1998 at CREEDE, CO
Aircraft:Cessna T210N, registration: N2WF
Injuries: 4 Fatal.
The airplane was on a flight to distribute the cremation ashes of the
pilot's mother. Witnesses observed the airplane fly around the high altitude
valley (elevation 10,400 feet, density altitude 11,864 feet) once and then
spin to the ground. One witness observed a 'cloud of something' pass behind
the airplane moments before it 'spun to the ground.' Records indicate that
the pilot had accumulated a total of 441 hours of flight experience, with
approximately 30 hours in the last 12 months. Toxicology tests on the pilot
revealed that sertraline (trade name Zoloft, a non-approved drug for flight
status) was present in his brain in levels several times higher than what
would normally be expected from the maximum recommended dosage. A powder,
which was light tan in color and gritty to the touch (similar to cremation
ashes), was found throughout the cabin area.
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of
this accident/incident as follows.
The pilot's failure to maintain flying airspeed and the subsequent
stall/spin. A contributing factor was high density altitude.
Full narrative available
John "JT" Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ashes
Don't go on if you're squeamish about disposal of human remains.
This is a difficult proposition in any airplane. For one thing, you have to
make sure that the ashes disperse clear of your airplane, the ash is very
abrasive and sometimes the bones are not ground completely. This can make a
real mess of your HS. Sticking your arm out the window and just emptying
the bag doesn't work real well as the ashes tend to blow back in the window
and they don't taste very good. Plus it's really easy to just drop the bag
- bag and ashes just hit the ground with a dull thud.
The guys that specialize in this usually have some sort of dispersal hopper
that cures these problems. A friend of mine has an enclosed hopper in his
plane, with a 3 in scat tube on the bottom, at the end of the scat is a long
pipe with the end cut at an angle to produce a sort of venturi effect. He
just opens the door a crack, sticks the pipe out, and then opens the
trap-door on the hopper. He says that works pretty well. We found that the
hopper needs to be closed on the top. That's also how we found that ashes
don't taste good. One wet-dry vac later and and a re-load of the hopper we
finally got it.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034(at)lafn.org]
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
Listers,
We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Ceramic Exhaust Coatings |
Mask the heat muff, don't coat where it attaches.
wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com [mailto:LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ceramic Exhaust Coatings
IF the ceramic coating is 100% efficient, and it includes the exhaust pipe
area under the heat muff, the heat muff wouldn't work at all.
Has anyone measured the temperature difference through their heat muff,
before and after ceramic coating?
This would be one way to determine the efficiency of the ceramic coating.
I've been told that if a crack develops in the exhaust pipe that is ceramic
coated, the cracked area CANNOT be repaired (welded) because of the ceramic
coating.
Anyone know if that is really true?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BE CAREFULL! TFR's |
Speaking of TFR's, there are LOTS of them around the southwest fires. New
Mexico, Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah...all have them. Here in
Albuquerque, we have no fires (yet), but have the haziest, brownest skies
I've ever seen here. The Sandia mountains on the east side of the city are
just about invisible from the smoke. Anyone flying cross country through
this area needs to be extra careful to avoid the TFR's and take the
visibility reports as gospel truth.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
AMEN!
Very well said, Papa Brian.
Brian is unfortunately 100% correct about the limited visibility around
here, so everyone coming through here, please be X-tra cautious as it is
down to nearly IFR conditions! Be safe up there!
Konrad Werner
ABQ-NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mallory J Pratt <mjpratt(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Old style RV4 fuel tanks |
My RV4 project has the old style (foward facing flange on baffle) fuel
tanks. I had to get a new wing spar so the web behind the the fuel tanks
is sized to have the new style tank baffle lap over it over it. My
question is does anyone have experience with old style tanks vs new because
my thinking is: I can build the tanks as is and add an .032 shim/doubler
to the flange or I can order a new tank baffle and cut it down slightly and
have it point to the back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring question |
Phil,
Good words about sizing the wire to handle the fuse/cb rating.
Someone else had already said that two switches and two cbs/fuses would be a
good improvement to what the original poster had postulated. That's what
I'd do. I was just sticking to his (less than optimum) design just for the
sake of learning more about sizing wire.
I guess this issue seems to be hazy and not ever resolve to a clear cut
(dogmatic?) solution because of the different failure modes (not always a
dead short is the best one, the one I'd not considered). So, I think I'll
adopt the "size the wire to the protective device" - the opposite of my
former opinion.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring question
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring question
>
>
> >
> > I think I've seen this race car come around the track several times
now -
> I
> > need to clarify something.
> >
> > Paul and Cy say that the wire to each individual light needs to be sized
> for
> > the normal current of 1 bulb, not the total current that the CB or fuse
> will
> > be rated at (carrying current for both lights).
> >
> > Todd & Charlie say that the wire to each light needs to be large enough
to
> > carry the current that the CB or fuse will permit to go thru.
> >
> > The way I see it, with a single CB or fuse feeding the two wires going
to
> > the two lights: With no short circuit, both bulbs will be burning 7.5
> amps,
> > plus or minus according to voltage in system as pointed out by later
> > e-mails. Thus, the fuse/CB is running right at its limit (might want to
> > make it a 17 or 20 amp fuse/cb to prevent nuisance trips with in rush
> > current - we can fix that during testing after wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-10 Update |
Van's has posted an update on the RV-10 on their web site. Link
from the front page.
Bob Hassel
RV9A - Plano, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator...or not |
Scott wrote:
Is a gascolator
> needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> injected engines.
>
> Any Thoughts
> Scott
Scott:
I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a gascolator. I
placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each pre-flight
check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked "which one
are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are finer
than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
I was once enthusiastic about BM too.
Shipping autopilots servos? Really? I ordered mine the week after SNF. No
sign of them yet. They have a significant numnber of my hard-earned dollars,
and I don't have squat from them yet...unless you count the several unfulfilled
delivery promises.
Cheers,
Larry
--- barry pote wrote:
>
> In the next 4 weeks, no later than OSHKOSH, I will pull the trigger on
> buying the EFIS-One from Blue Mountain. If I don't feel justified in
> doing so,in that time span, I will go another route.
>
> As this is quite expensive and as there is little or no history on the
> unit, I am asking for input from those that may have 'gone before'.
>
> I know SB is working hard on the 'Lite' unit.
>
> How many have bought the 'One'?
>
> Is anyone flying with it?
>
> Is it wrung out, in your opinion ?
>
> What are your hopes and speculations?
>
> Several weeks ago, I talked with Greg, from Blue Mountain, and he said
> he will have units for sale at OSH.
>
> Today he sent me an email and said he is 'shipping' the auto pilot
> units.
>
> It looks kool. It is the wave of the future. Is it's time now?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
Barry:
I can only comment on my experience with the EFIS Lite. Still
waiting.....Since Mid March.
Dave Aronson
N504RV RV4
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain
>
> In the next 4 weeks, no later than OSHKOSH, I will pull the trigger on
> buying the EFIS-One from Blue Mountain. If I don't feel justified in
> doing so,in that time span, I will go another route.
>
> As this is quite expensive and as there is little or no history on the
> unit, I am asking for input from those that may have 'gone before'.
>
> I know SB is working hard on the 'Lite' unit.
>
> How many have bought the 'One'?
>
> Is anyone flying with it?
>
> Is it wrung out, in your opinion ?
>
> What are your hopes and speculations?
>
> Several weeks ago, I talked with Greg, from Blue Mountain, and he said
> he will have units for sale at OSH.
>
> Today he sent me an email and said he is 'shipping' the auto pilot
> units.
>
> It looks kool. It is the wave of the future. Is it's time now?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator...or not |
Tom:
I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair gascolator in the left
wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without using the AFP filter. I
had the same comversation with Don at AFP who advised that the filter in the
Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the system and that if I was
going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as well. Since I already
had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP filter (which is about the
same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems to me that plumbing the
gascolator into the wing root was no more time consuming or difficult than
it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system (at least for the -8
anyway). The only difference then between the AFP filter and the Andair
gascolator is that the gascolator has the added benefit of the water trap
and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
Mike Sices
RV8, Wiring
Kenosha, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
Scott wrote:
Is a gascolator
> needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> injected engines.
>
> Any Thoughts
> Scott
Scott:
I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a gascolator. I
placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each pre-flight
check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked "which
one
are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are finer
than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B Excel Spreadsheet |
Right click right on the link in the email and select 'Save Target As...'
from the menu. This of course assumes that you are using Internet Explorer.
If it still doesn't work let me know and I'll email it directly to you.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B Excel Spreadsheet
>
> Bill,
>
> How do I copy this to put on my computer? When I try to save it with
"Save
> As" I am asked for a username and password. When I select and copy the
> page, the graph is missing.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV-List: W&B Excel Spreadsheet
>
>
> >
> > I have made my W&B Spreadsheet available for download on my site... You
> can
> > get it at the link below if your interested...
> >
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/N8WV-W&B.xls
> >
> > I am also working on one that you can use on your iPAQ...
> >
> > -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Hooker belts "whats going on???" |
True story. I met Mr. Hooker at his booth at Oshgosh about 5 years ago
and ordered my belts. When no one was at his booth, I asked him about
his last name...(being last name sensitive myself...) He went into a
long and interesting story that his great-great grandfather was a senior
ranking officer in the Cival War and ran a brothell which he rewarded
his men with visits to. Later, these girls would traver from camp to
camp in the wagons and were known as Hookers Girls. Anyway, to make this
RV related..... I waited about a month for delivery and the belts are
great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrbernie(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tip up canopy flight test results |
Flew my 6A this AM and tested the idea about using flaps to close canopy.
Stabilized at 75 knots, flaps full down. Released canopy and it stayed in
place.
Raised flaps and the canopy came up about 5 inches open.
Lowered flaps and canopy closed. Easily latched the safety under the roll
over frame, but had to reach over my left shoulder and pull down on the
frame to get the latch to lock.
Bernie Kerr, 6A,O-320,tipup,Sensenich metal,SE Fla
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/25/2002 3:19:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bj034(at)lafn.org
writes:
> Listers,
>
> We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
Rent a Cessna 172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
I am looking at fitting a WAM-160 (a supercharged turbo diesel, water
cooled, inverted inline 4 cylinder 2 stroke, aero engine) to my RV-8. Does
anyone have accurate weights and arms for a O-360 with metal fp prop etc, so
that I can compare them to the WAM-160. I have seen lots of weights listed
for the O-360 but not with ancillaries and oil or the arms. Basically if
anyone has a detailed break down of the firewall forward it would be
appreciated. When I install the engine in a year or so I'll let you know
how I get on.
Regards,
Marcus Tuck
Building the wings for a Jet A-1 powered RV-8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
I need to call upon your collective wisdom AGAIN. I had originally planned
on an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel injection for my RV-8A. Since
that time I got a "too good to pass" price on an IO-360.
Now the problem. I have the cowl bottom with the scoop. I tried to return
it for exchange for the smooth bottom cowl. It is starting to look like
return shipping is going to be more trouble than its worth.
Is it possible to cut off the scoop and reglass it? Will there be any
strength issues? Should I use carbon fiber to stiffen it? OR am I going to
have to accept the fact that I will always have an uneeded scoop hanging in
the breeze adding unecessary drag?
Is there some option that I have overlooked?
Vince
Fighting the never ending battle
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, RV10(at)yahoogroups.com
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int4.htm#6_25_02
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
You will much happier if you swap for the right cowl.
Mike Wilson, RV4 with custom made cowl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vincent Welch [mailto:welchvincent(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Question
I need to call upon your collective wisdom AGAIN. I had originally planned
on an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel injection for my RV-8A. Since
that time I got a "too good to pass" price on an IO-360.
Now the problem. I have the cowl bottom with the scoop. I tried to return
it for exchange for the smooth bottom cowl. It is starting to look like
return shipping is going to be more trouble than its worth.
Is it possible to cut off the scoop and reglass it? Will there be any
strength issues? Should I use carbon fiber to stiffen it? OR am I going to
have to accept the fact that I will always have an uneeded scoop hanging in
the breeze adding unecessary drag?
Is there some option that I have overlooked?
Vince
Fighting the never ending battle
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kamloops,BC - Hear we come! |
I'm curious about Hope. What kind of an airport is it? How easy to get into
town? Is the town worth visiting? I've flown over it a couple of times now
on the way back from up north, and it looks like a nice grass strip, in a
SPECTACULAR setting. But no idea what it's really like down there.
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Yeller Pages Update |
Listers!
The latest version (Spring 2002) of Gary VanRemortel's RV Builder's Yeller
Pages is now online at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
I know you use it, so be sure to thank Gary!
- Mike
RV6A (in progress) N642MH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cowling Question |
Hey guys, I need the benefit of your collective wisdom yet AGAIN. I was
originally planning to use an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel injection
for my RV-8A. Therefore, I ordered the appropriat cowl with my finish kit.
Since that time I have gotten a "too good to pass up" deal on an IO-360.
Now I need to exchange the cowl bottom for the smooth bottom cowl. This
brings us to my problem, I have been trying a few days now and it seems that
I am going to have to go through more hassel and cost than I want to endure.
As I see it, my options are to leave well enough alone and accept the fact
that I will have an unecessary scoop hanging in the breeze and adding to the
drag forever. Or, I can cut the scoop off. If I cut it off and glass over
it will it affect the strength of the cowl? Should I use carbon fiber to
stiffen it? Do I have any other choices? Am I making too big a deal of
this?
Vince Welch
Fighting this thing to the bitter end.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Kamloops,BC - Hear we come! |
The town of Hope is about a 5-10 minute drive from the airport, or a
significant walk. The strip is indeed wonderful, it's 4000' long and
probably 400' wide. All circuits are left-hand, and yes that means
flying close to a mountain on one side. It's really not that scary.
If you glance at the strip from the air you'll think you're flying too
low, as it looks like a nice little grass strip, but then you realize
that it's a bloody huge grass strip. Boeing actually landed one of
their early jumbos on it, to prove to a customer that it could handle
unimproved strips. I don't recall whether it was a 727 or 737, but
there's a picture of the jet sitting on the runway in the airport lounge.
Personally, i'd say the town isn't really worth visiting, it's just
another small town (but i'm from BC and have been there many times).
There are a number of interesting things near the town, though, with the
Airport being one and the Othello Tunnels being another. Take a look at
www.hopebc.com for some more ideas, although the page appears to be a
little out of date.
On approach to Hope, take care to look out for gliders, there are rather
a lot of them in the air on nice weekends. I should know, i'm one of
their tow pilots... 8-) They do fam flights for about $100... If you
have never been up in a glider it's well worth doing.
This saturday the Breakfast Club of BC is having a fly-in breakfast
there, if you think you can make it send an email to Gary West
(west(at)direct.ca) and let him know you're coming so they can have enough
food.
Blue Skies,
-RB4
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> I'm curious about Hope. What kind of an airport is it? How easy to get into
> town? Is the town worth visiting? I've flown over it a couple of times now
> on the way back from up north, and it looks like a nice grass strip, in a
> SPECTACULAR setting. But no idea what it's really like down there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
Team Rocket has put up F-2 3 views on their site www.teamrocketaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ashes ( L O N G !) |
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
> Listers,
> We've recently had a death in the family and I've been asked to spread
> the ashes from my RV and of course it's a little difficult without
> opening the canopy. Has anyone on the list tackled this problem before
> or have any ideas? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
> Dave
Dear Dave,
I am sorry for your loss of a loved one. Like Brian Denk stated in an
earlier post, we lost a damn good Airman to the unforgiving Ground last
August 24, when he and his passenger vanished with his T-6. Spreading of
"Scoop's" Ashes was accomplished with a very ingenious contraption devised
by John D. (although there was a slight technical problem during the
release).
Let me see if I can describe the contraption for you in detail:
It was based on a cylindrical cardboard tube as available by the USPS for
mailing plans, posters, etc.etc. Diameter ~2-3 inches or so, Length ~2-3
feet. Next you put the next bigger diameter tube over it (~1 foot long) on
each end, which I will now call "A" & "B". The outer tube on "A" will have
to be rigidly connected to the inner tube (screws / epoxy / ducttape /
etc.). The outer tube on the opposite end "B" will have to be lose enough to
be able to slip over the inner tube without to much friction (or none at
all). The ends of both outer tubes have to be sealed closed (obviously!)!
Now attach string or wire to the "A" end of the inner/outer tubes, which
will also be mounted on the aft end of the A/C (at the Tiedown?). From this
location another string goes to the cockpit (keep it tight!). Now attach a
guide of some kind to the "B" end, that allows for the "B" end to move along
the (cockpit-) string laterally without friction. Now attach one last string
through the "B" end, so you can actually pull it open from the cockpit. Try
it all empty first!!!
Here is how to operate it:
You fill the cylinder in the Hangar with the Ashes ("A" at the bottom!),
then you close the lid ("B") on it. This tube will be heavy with the Ashes
in it.
Now you mount "A" on the Tiedown, run the Stationary Guide-string & the
Operational Pull-string to the PAX side window of the A/C. The Guidestring
(tight!!) will hold the Slip-end "B", as well as the whole other Assembly in
a horizontal plane with "B" facing forward. Upon takeoff the airpressure on
the flatplate drag of "B" will press it & keep it on the tube. Once over the
target, the PAX pulls on the operational string, which pulls "B" forward
along on the Stationary Guide string until it opens the whole Tube, which at
this time lost its forward anchor in form of "B"! The Tube is now
unsupported in the slipstream in the forward part and therefore swings down
(by the weight of the Ashes & slipstream) to make the last attached part "A"
now suddenly the forward facing part, with the now open end disbursing the
Ashes behind the aft end of the A/C. I hope this is somewhat
understandable, if not, feel free to email me, and I will draw it for you!
That's the principle on the operation. HOWEVER, it is not without some fault
The Strings & (the whole assembly) have to be strong enough to withstand the
various loads imposed on them, as we found out with "Scoop's" Ashes!
When the release-lid ("B") was pulled from the backseater of Phil's L-5
"Bird-Dog" over the intended target area, the sudden change in frontal drag
area was to much for the string attaching "A" to the tiedown, which
subsequently broke, and sent the Ashes earthbound, whilst STILL IN THE TUBE
!!
So our beloved friend "Scoop" actually even became a Cruise-Missile Pilot on
his very last flight! That's the way he wanted to go, I guess: VERY
MEMORABLE & IN GREAT AVIATOR STYLE!
P.S. No one on the Ground got seriously hurt by the Missile, only the
laughing muscles hurt a bit, I guess??
My 0.02 of advice:
Try different types of tube: PVC / Cardboard, etc.etc.!
Experiment with the strength of the string beforehand !!
Use a (rental) A/C with a window that can be opened in flight (C-172) for
operating the strings!
Hope this information helps you out!
Godspeed!
Konrad Werner,
ABQ-NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
In a message dated 6/25/02 12:18:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com writes:
<< Does anyone have a list of which blind rivets will replace which AN426AD3
series rivets? >>
FWIW I have used the Cherry Commercial MSC-32 in a few places to replace
AN426AD-3s. Spruce p. 98.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Question |
Vince,
As one who has a parallel valve carbureted O-360 I haven't studies all the
intake options for the angle valve motors, but I would advise you to arrange
a cowl swap with Van's rather than attempt to cut off the intake scoop and
glass it over. Yes, it can be done, but you would spend a lot of time trying
to get a nice smooth surface there, and the cowl would likely be compromised
sctructurally. Van's is normally fairly cooperative in areas such as this.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 185 hrs, with way too much time spent customizing a cowl.
> Hey guys, I need the benefit of your collective wisdom yet AGAIN. I was
> originally planning to use an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel
injection
> for my RV-8A. Therefore, I ordered the appropriat cowl with my finish
kit.
>
> Since that time I have gotten a "too good to pass up" deal on an IO-360.
> Now I need to exchange the cowl bottom for the smooth bottom cowl. This
> brings us to my problem, I have been trying a few days now and it seems
that
> I am going to have to go through more hassel and cost than I want to
endure.
>
> As I see it, my options are to leave well enough alone and accept the fact
> that I will have an unecessary scoop hanging in the breeze and adding to
the
> drag forever. Or, I can cut the scoop off. If I cut it off and glass
over
> it will it affect the strength of the cowl? Should I use carbon fiber to
> stiffen it? Do I have any other choices? Am I making too big a deal of
> this?
>
> Vince Welch
> Fighting this thing to the bitter end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopy flight test results |
Thanks, Bernie for the very useful information - next time I won't have to
exert myself so much to get the canopy down and locked {:>)
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrbernie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tip up canopy flight test results
>
>
> Flew my 6A this AM and tested the idea about using flaps to close canopy.
>
> Stabilized at 75 knots, flaps full down. Released canopy and it stayed in
> place.
>
> Raised flaps and the canopy came up about 5 inches open.
>
> Lowered flaps and canopy closed. Easily latched the safety under the roll
> over frame, but had to reach over my left shoulder and pull down on the
> frame to get the latch to lock.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A,O-320,tipup,Sensenich metal,SE Fla
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tank skin countersinking?? |
Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as to
what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the exploded
view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
What's a builder to do??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:51:39 -0500
>
>
>Tom:
>
>I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair gascolator in the left
>wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without using the AFP filter. I
>had the same comversation with Don at AFP who advised that the filter in
>the
>Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the system and that if I was
>going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as well. Since I already
>had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP filter (which is about the
>same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems to me that plumbing the
>gascolator into the wing root was no more time consuming or difficult than
>it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system (at least for the -8
>anyway). The only difference then between the AFP filter and the Andair
>gascolator is that the gascolator has the added benefit of the water trap
>and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
>
>
>Mike Sices
>RV8, Wiring
>Kenosha, WI
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>Is a gascolator
> > needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> > injected engines.
> >
> > Any Thoughts
> > Scott
>
>Scott:
> I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a gascolator. I
>placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
>That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
>pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each pre-flight
>check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
>the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
>the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
>angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
>so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
>
> When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked
>"which
>one
>are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
>good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are finer
>than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
>not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
>already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
>seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
>--
>Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopy flight test results |
02:03:44 PM
I raise my beer in toast...............Arghhhh, Arghhhhh
Atta way to put it all on the line Bernie. I hereby nominate you, Daisy of
the Month. Recomendation will be forwarded to Clecotoo for approval.
I'm going out tonight to tell everyone I know this guy. It does not look
good for my camp that Bernie flys a nose dragger.
Eric
"Bernie Kerr" (at)matronics.com on 06/26/2002 11:06:01
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Tip up canopy flight test results
Flew my 6A this AM and tested the idea about using flaps to close canopy.
Stabilized at 75 knots, flaps full down. Released canopy and it stayed in
place.
Raised flaps and the canopy came up about 5 inches open.
Lowered flaps and canopy closed. Easily latched the safety under the roll
over frame, but had to reach over my left shoulder and pull down on the
frame to get the latch to lock.
Bernie Kerr, 6A,O-320,tipup,Sensenich metal,SE Fla
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank skin countersinking?? |
From memoery, counter sink the skin.
-Larry
http://Bowenaero.com
--- Dana Overall wrote:
>
> Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as to
> what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the exploded
> view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
>
> What's a builder to do??
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
| Subject: | Re: Tank skin countersinking?? |
Countersink the skin. Put the baffle in place to help support the countersink.
Use a 3- rivet to judge the depth and away you go.
Steve
RV-7A
fuse almost done
Quoting Dana Overall :
>
> Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as to
>
> what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the exploded
> view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
>
> What's a builder to do??
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> >From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
> >Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:51:39 -0500
> >
> >
> >Tom:
> >
> >I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair gascolator in the left
> >wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without using the AFP filter. I
> >had the same comversation with Don at AFP who advised that the filter in
> >the
> >Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the system and that if I was
> >going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as well. Since I already
> >had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP filter (which is about the
> >same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems to me that plumbing the
> >gascolator into the wing root was no more time consuming or difficult than
> >it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system (at least for the -8
> >anyway). The only difference then between the AFP filter and the Andair
> >gascolator is that the gascolator has the added benefit of the water trap
> >and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
> >
> >
> >Mike Sices
> >RV8, Wiring
> >Kenosha, WI
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
> >
> >
> >
> >Scott wrote:
> >Is a gascolator
> > > needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> > > injected engines.
> > >
> > > Any Thoughts
> > > Scott
> >
> >Scott:
> > I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a gascolator.
> I
> >placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
> >That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
> >pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each pre-flight
> >check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
> >the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
> >the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
> >angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
> >so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
> >
> > When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked
> >"which
> >one
> >are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
> >good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are finer
> >than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
> >not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
> >already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
> >seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
> >--
> >Tom Sargent.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Tank skin countersinking?? |
I'm sticking my neck out because I don't have the plans in front of me
but my recollection of the way it worked on my -6A (pre-punch skins
only) is like this: After everything was drilled and clecoed together,
the skins, ribs, and baffle were drilled for riveting only; the screw
holes were left as is. When I had prosealed and riveted the rear baffle
onto the tank, I clecoed the tank back to the spar (with saran wrap
between spar and tank) using the screw locations and let the proseal
set. This made the tank skin conform to the spar without having to
guess and pre-bend the rear flange. Then I drilled out the screw
locations and countersunk them - the countersink went through the top
skin, a thin layer of proseal, and part of the baffle. Next I drilled
the rivet locations on the spar (for the platenuts) and dimpled and
squeezed them in place. The screw holes on the outboard end of the tank
(except at the spar) were dimpled. I hope this made sense and is useful
for the -7.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Tank skin countersinking??
Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as
to
what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the
exploded
view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
What's a builder to do??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:51:39 -0500
>
>
>Tom:
>
>I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair gascolator in the left
>wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without using the AFP filter.
I
>had the same comversation with Don at AFP who advised that the filter
in
>the
>Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the system and that if I
was
>going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as well. Since I
already
>had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP filter (which is about
the
>same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems to me that plumbing
the
>gascolator into the wing root was no more time consuming or difficult
than
>it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system (at least for the
-8
>anyway). The only difference then between the AFP filter and the
Andair
>gascolator is that the gascolator has the added benefit of the water
trap
>and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
>
>
>Mike Sices
>RV8, Wiring
>Kenosha, WI
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>Is a gascolator
> > needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on
their
> > injected engines.
> >
> > Any Thoughts
> > Scott
>
>Scott:
> I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a
gascolator. I
>placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
>That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
>pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each
pre-flight
>check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
>the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
>the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
>angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
>so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
>
> When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked
>"which
>one
>are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
>good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are
finer
>than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
>not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
>already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
>seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
>--
>Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank skin countersinking?? |
Dana,
By countersinking the skin and leaving the baffle flat
it is much easier to get a good seal. I have two
tanks done this way and neither leak.
Ross Schlotthauer
--- Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
> Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not
> very clear at all as to
> what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle.
> Looking at the exploded
> view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
>
> What's a builder to do??
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> >From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
> >Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:51:39 -0500
> >
>
> >
> >Tom:
> >
> >I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair
> gascolator in the left
> >wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without
> using the AFP filter. I
> >had the same comversation with Don at AFP who
> advised that the filter in
> >the
> >Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the
> system and that if I was
> >going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as
> well. Since I already
> >had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP
> filter (which is about the
> >same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems
> to me that plumbing the
> >gascolator into the wing root was no more time
> consuming or difficult than
> >it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system
> (at least for the -8
> >anyway). The only difference then between the AFP
> filter and the Andair
> >gascolator is that the gascolator has the added
> benefit of the water trap
> >and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
> >
> >
> >Mike Sices
> >RV8, Wiring
> >Kenosha, WI
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of tom sargent
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
> >
> >
>
> >
> >Scott wrote:
> >Is a gascolator
> > > needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not
> use a gascolator on their
> > > injected engines.
> > >
> > > Any Thoughts
> > > Scott
> >
> >Scott:
> > I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted
> to use a gascolator. I
> >placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace
> Bohay's installation.
> >That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it
> before the boost
> >pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain
> it at each pre-flight
> >check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator
> at almost exactly
> >the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank.
> It does complicate
> >the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost
> pump at a 45 degree
> >angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.)
> I'm not flying yet,
> >so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
> >
> > When I asked Don at AFP about using a
> gascolator, he asked
> >"which
> >one
> >are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit.
> He said that was a
> >good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron
> holes which are finer
> >than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he
> supplies. He suggested
> >not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel
> going thru it would
> >already have gone thru the finer screen in the
> gascolator. He didn't
> >seem too willing to advise for or against a
> gascolator in general.
> >--
> >Tom Sargent.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank skin countersinking?? |
03:07:19 PM
Dana, I'm a little confused as to why this has gascolator stuff attached so
I'm hoping I'm not answering the wrong question. I'm taking your question
as pertaining to the tank skin fitting over the tank baffle sides. If thats
right I think if you look way back in the archives you'll find some real
good reading about this. The issue ultimately was weeping rivets as the two
skins worked in shear and opened the proseal. Due to this lots of us
dimpled both. They will positively lock together with no problems if you
dimple both. Look back about 5 years in the archive.
ERic
"Dana Overall" (at)matronics.com on 06/26/2002 02:00:52
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Tank skin countersinking??
Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as to
what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the exploded
view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
What's a builder to do??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:51:39 -0500
>
>
>Tom:
>
>I have the same setup in my -8 with the andair gascolator in the left
>wingroot, then going to the AFP fuel pump without using the AFP filter. I
>had the same comversation with Don at AFP who advised that the filter in
>the
>Andair gascolator was a sufficient filter for the system and that if I was
>going to use it, I would not need the AFP filter as well. Since I already
>had the Andair, I chose it instead of the AFP filter (which is about the
>same $). I haven't flown either yet, but it seems to me that plumbing the
>gascolator into the wing root was no more time consuming or difficult than
>it would be to plumb the AFP filter into the system (at least for the -8
>anyway). The only difference then between the AFP filter and the Andair
>gascolator is that the gascolator has the added benefit of the water trap
>and drain, which the AFP filter does not provide.
>
>
>Mike Sices
>RV8, Wiring
>Kenosha, WI
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator...or not
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>Is a gascolator
> > needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> > injected engines.
> >
> > Any Thoughts
> > Scott
>
>Scott:
> I have the AFP injection too, and I wanted to use a gascolator.
I
>placed mine in the left wing root a la Eustace Bohay's installation.
>That keeps the gascolator in a cool spot, places it before the boost
>pump (hence low pressure), and allows you to drain it at each pre-flight
>check. It also places the bottom of the gascolator at almost exactly
>the same level as the lowest spot in the fuel tank. It does complicate
>the fuel plumbing a bit, though. (I put the boost pump at a 45 degree
>angle under the left gear weldment - mine is a 6A.) I'm not flying yet,
>so I can't say it all works or doesn't.
>
> When I asked Don at AFP about using a gascolator, he asked
>"which
>one
>are you using?" I told him it was the Andair unit. He said that was a
>good one and it had a filter screen with 75 micron holes which are finer
>than the the 125 micron holes in the filter he supplies. He suggested
>not using the AFP filter at all since the fuel going thru it would
>already have gone thru the finer screen in the gascolator. He didn't
>seem too willing to advise for or against a gascolator in general.
>--
>Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Question |
I have observed Claudio Tonnini, RV-4 "Purple Passion" cut the scoop and
re-glass it several times over the years as he experiments with different
engines, carb vs. FI, low drag, etc.
He has flown his bird to the tip of S. America on the way to Oshkosh and has
hundreds of hours on each mod - no problems. In each case, with a judicious
bit of elbow grease and a little paint, you cannot see the modifications.
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowling Question
>
> Vince,
>
> As one who has a parallel valve carbureted O-360 I haven't studies all the
> intake options for the angle valve motors, but I would advise you to
arrange
> a cowl swap with Van's rather than attempt to cut off the intake scoop and
> glass it over. Yes, it can be done, but you would spend a lot of time
trying
> to get a nice smooth surface there, and the cowl would likely be
compromised
> sctructurally. Van's is normally fairly cooperative in areas such as this.
>
> FWIW,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 185 hrs, with way too much time spent customizing a cowl.
>
>
> > Hey guys, I need the benefit of your collective wisdom yet AGAIN. I was
> > originally planning to use an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel
> injection
> > for my RV-8A. Therefore, I ordered the appropriat cowl with my finish
> kit.
> >
> > Since that time I have gotten a "too good to pass up" deal on an IO-360.
> > Now I need to exchange the cowl bottom for the smooth bottom cowl. This
> > brings us to my problem, I have been trying a few days now and it seems
> that
> > I am going to have to go through more hassel and cost than I want to
> endure.
> >
> > As I see it, my options are to leave well enough alone and accept the
fact
> > that I will have an unecessary scoop hanging in the breeze and adding to
> the
> > drag forever. Or, I can cut the scoop off. If I cut it off and glass
> over
> > it will it affect the strength of the cowl? Should I use carbon fiber
to
> > stiffen it? Do I have any other choices? Am I making too big a deal of
> > this?
> >
> > Vince Welch
> > Fighting this thing to the bitter end.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Resistance Fuel Tank Senders |
Hi,
I don't know if I have problems or not with my fuel senders. If I am in a
turn the readings are innacurate as can be expected. After I return the
wings to level, how long should it take for the readings to return to
normal?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow through the cabin. |
Hi,
I would like to get more cool air blowing through the NACA/eyeball vents on
my RV-6. Will I get better airflow if I cut some holes into the baggage
area aft bulkhead panel? Can you recommended the total square area of the
holes?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
50 hours :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resistance Fuel Tank Senders |
>
>
>Hi,
>I don't know if I have problems or not with my fuel senders. If I am in a
>turn the readings are innacurate as can be expected. After I return the
>wings to level, how long should it take for the readings to return to
>normal?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
Just to be picky, in a coordinated turn you shouldn't see any change. In
an uncoordinated turn you'll see the gauges go opposite directions,
yes? The gauge should return to normal in a few seconds (they do on my
plane-early 90's RV-4). Are both senders taking the same amount of time to
change?
MGM
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
To quote Bill D. Cat - "THPTPH!!!" :)
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A and not a bit intimidated by 'big aluminum'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
Subject: RE: Fw: RV-List: RV-10 Update
Agreed! It's also got a *sliding canopy* so I can taxi with my arm on
the
sill and look down on all the lesser (and smaller) factory-built
types;-)
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrbernie(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Debur ( Sam's attitude) DNA |
Now the truth is out Sam, we know how you built so fast :>)
In all seriousness, I think Sam is correct to say that new builders really
do grab some of our strings of thought and take them too serious.
There are many facets of safely. The RV series of aircraft are
conservatively designed and with a knowledgeable person building there are
many items that are non critical to the structure, but to a novice they
should follow accepted procedures on all items to be sure.
Bernie Kerr, N60WM flying and rotary powered RV9A in the hopper.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resistance Fuel Tank Senders |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>>
>Hi,
>I don't know if I have problems or not with my fuel senders. If I am in a
>turn the readings are innacurate as can be expected. After I return the
>wings to level, how long should it take for the readings to return to
>normal?
>
I wouldn't expect the readings to be inaccurate, just because you are in
a turn. Assuming a coordinated turn and reasonable smoothness, the only
change would be a slight angle of attack change. For anything less than
a 45 degree banked turn, or so, I would not think it would be observable.
I've certainly never seen a change in a turn, although in a descent I do
sometimes see a slight decrease in the indicated level. A turn would
give a little increase, if anything.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
still no one answered my original question. Apparently the word "debur" is
similar to "primer" and kicks off a lot of emotions. (the next I knew the
wings were falling off C-130 fire bombers from lack of deburring)
so....I'll try again-
have any studies been done comparing prepunched holes to drill-your-own
holes? Better yet, I assume that Boeing, for instance, has prepunched
skins. Do they debur all the holes as was done in the past? Are people
positive that they're beloved quick-builds are deburred?
There must be some Boeing employees on the RV list. When I used to work
at McDonnell-Douglas I used to walk around final assembly all the time and
ask what they were doing. Way more fun than systems programming!
I promise to drop the subject after this :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John and Patti Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Positech oil cooler |
I have been using an oil coler from Earl's for over 5 years and 530 plus
hours. It developed a pin hole and I decided it was time to get another
one. After 6 weeks and no delivery in sight, I decided to install a
Positech from Van's in spite of all the negative pub.
I flew today with the new Positech, fully expecting to have a cooling
problem. Much to my surprise, the oil temperature ran cooler than with
the larger Earl's cooler. On a 90 degree day, the oil refused to climb
over 160 degrees even at full throttle for a long period.
I really believe the Positech will do the job if you get the air through
it.
I now need to fab a door to block some of the air. By the way, I also
have # 6 fittings and hoses on it.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Thanks for all the replies about spreading my sister's ashes.
One thought I had was to run a hose out through the tail cone ( through
the elevator bellcrank inspection plate) and tie it to the tail wheel
spring. With a funnel on the other end it just might work. If I do this,
I'll try it with baking soda first.
I couldn't possibly use a rented C172 since, A, it has a (gasp)
nosewheel, and B, the last time I rented an airplane it was a shiny new
AA-1 Yankee in 1970 and I don't think that I'd remember how to rent one!
And besides, it would mean more to use my own airplane if possible.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Here is how a friend of mine deposited her father's ashes. To say it was
important to her for it to go well would be an understatement. What she did
was to put the ashes in a heavy paper shopping bag. She then weakened the
bag around its circumference (poked small holes)so it would tear open. Then
she tied a rope to the top of it. The rope was sized so it was long enough
to put the bag behind the empenage before it went tight. She opened the
canopy, let out the bag, the line went tight an pop. Dad was deposited in
his final resting place.
One thing though. She has an Aircoupe. She did this at about 90 mph. A
really neat thing about our RVs is that I actualy have a lower stall speed
than she does.
You may need to rent a cessna for this though.
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Natedanna(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
Barry,
If you price out the cost of the old steam gauges, vacuum pump system,
autopilot, and moving map gps, you will find the price of the Blue Mountain
set up is very close to the same.
It just does it all in one package and is state of the art. I'm going for it
as I proceed in the building of my ALL ELECTRIC RV7A.
Nate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Van's ammeter FYI |
hi listers,
I found out the hard way, and by good luck, that what seems to be the
logical way to wire up this meter dosn't work.
I am using the main bus/essential bus scheme promoted by Bob Nuckolls.
The two busses are connected by a big diode. These are electronic gauges
and get a power and ground in addition to the sense pin(s). It seems
logical to power the gauges, including the ammeter, from the essential
bus but this dosn't work for the ammeter, the meter will show a huge
discharge. Moving the ammeter power lead to the main bus will fix it.
I think that the problem is that the 1 volt drop across the diode causes
the sense pins to be at a higher voltage than the power source which
boggles the circuit.
Jim Bean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
Hi All,
Sadly I'm thinking of selling my kit as i just don't have any time to work
on it anymore.
I have the wing kit and the empenage kit.
Would anyone have an idea of what i could reasonably expect to get for it,
keeping in mind im living in Australia (if that makes and differance)
cheers
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Baking soda is corrosive. Use flour or something.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: RV-List: Ashes
Thanks for all the replies about spreading my sister's ashes.
One thought I had was to run a hose out through the tail cone ( through
the elevator bellcrank inspection plate) and tie it to the tail wheel
spring. With a funnel on the other end it just might work. If I do this,
I'll try it with baking soda first.
I couldn't possibly use a rented C172 since, A, it has a (gasp)
nosewheel, and B, the last time I rented an airplane it was a shiny new
AA-1 Yankee in 1970 and I don't think that I'd remember how to rent one!
And besides, it would mean more to use my own airplane if possible.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
In a message dated 6/26/02 10:31:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Natedanna(at)aol.com writes:
<< Barry,
If you price out the cost of the old steam gauges, vacuum pump system,
autopilot, and moving map gps, you will find the price of the Blue Mountain
set up is very close to the same.
It just does it all in one package and is state of the art. I'm going for it
as I proceed in the building of my ALL ELECTRIC RV7A.
Nate >>
Not a bad choice, however, you do need to consider the "single point of
failure" issue. If something goes tango uniform in that little electronic
box, and you have to send it in for service, your airplane is on the ground
until the problem is fixed and the box reinstalled. With multiple steam
gauges, probably 1/2 of them can be marked "inop" and you can legally fly the
airplane. If any of the "flight critical" gauges dies, you could probably
borrow one, assuming you're based at a medium-large field or know a friendly
A&P, OR, you could have a replacement shipped next day from ACS or equivalent.
Just something to consider.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain- EFIS et.al. |
Hi Kyle,
If anything subject matter wise has the makings of a damn good thread this
should!
It'll be interesting to see and learn from the responses.
Later,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blue Mountain
>
> In a message dated 6/26/02 10:31:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Natedanna(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Barry,
> If you price out the cost of the old steam gauges, vacuum pump system,
> autopilot, and moving map gps, you will find the price of the Blue
Mountain
> set up is very close to the same.
> It just does it all in one package and is state of the art. I'm going for
it
> as I proceed in the building of my ALL ELECTRIC RV7A.
> Nate >>
>
> Not a bad choice, however, you do need to consider the "single point of
> failure" issue. If something goes tango uniform in that little electronic
> box, and you have to send it in for service, your airplane is on the
ground
> until the problem is fixed and the box reinstalled. With multiple steam
> gauges, probably 1/2 of them can be marked "inop" and you can legally fly
the
> airplane. If any of the "flight critical" gauges dies, you could probably
> borrow one, assuming you're based at a medium-large field or know a
friendly
> A&P, OR, you could have a replacement shipped next day from ACS or
equivalent.
>
> Just something to consider.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank skin countersinking?? |
I will second that emotion! I dimpled both the tank skin and rear baffle on my
8A tanks (and the tanks on another builder's 6A) We had no problems assembling
or Prosealing either set. Both sets turned out to be leak free.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Dana, I'm a little confused as to why this has gascolator stuff attached so
>I'm hoping I'm not answering the wrong question. I'm taking your question
>as pertaining to the tank skin fitting over the tank baffle sides. If thats
>right I think if you look way back in the archives you'll find some real
>good reading about this. The issue ultimately was weeping rivets as the two
>skins worked in shear and opened the proseal. Due to this lots of us
>dimpled both. They will positively lock together with no problems if you
>dimple both. Look back about 5 years in the archive.
>
>ERic
>
>
>"Dana Overall" (at)matronics.com on 06/26/2002 02:00:52
>PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>cc:
>Subject: RV-List: Tank skin countersinking??
>
>
>Well, looking at the 7 plans the description is not very clear at all as to
>what to countersink, the tank skin or the baffle. Looking at the exploded
>view, it looks as if the skin is countersunk.
>
>What's a builder to do??
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow through the cabin. |
07:50:34 AM
Hey Glenn, how bout mounting a second hidden set under your subpanel and
using a Y fitting to feed both. Then one hits your face and one hits the
sweaty bod. I'll let ya know in a year how it works.
Eric
"Glenn Gordon" (at)matronics.com on
06/26/2002 04:19:05 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Airflow through the cabin.
Hi,
I would like to get more cool air blowing through the NACA/eyeball vents on
my RV-6. Will I get better airflow if I cut some holes into the baggage
area aft bulkhead panel? Can you recommended the total square area of the
holes?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
50 hours :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tank skin countersinking?? |
After reading Patrick's reply attached below, I am wondering if the
procedures for tank attachment are that much different between the 6 & 7.
All of the tank to spar attach screw holes are pre punched on the spar. All
of the platenuts are already attached to the spar. I can set the tank into
position on the spar but can't cleco anything, other than the attach strip
between the outboard leading edge and tank. Like the old commercial once
said.........."I'm confused":-) Well, not really. The plans call for the
baffle to be riveted to the skins with the tanks skins countersunk for the
skin/baffle attach points. The Z brackets have already been drilled into
position. It's just a matter of dimpling for a #8 screw on the aft holes of
the tank skin and dropping it in place.
This baffle/skin attach area countersinking vs. dimpling seems almost as
religious as priming and deburring in the archives:-) The plans definitely
call for countersinking the tank skins for the baffle attach point and using
AN3 rivets, although I see how this area could be placed in shear with the
aft holes dimpled and screwed to the spar and the Z brackets popped to the
aft side of the baffle.
Man, this turned into a long winded one.............sorry.
Deburr DNA......so it's either a born right to deburr or not. That means we
really don't have a choice, it's predestined:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
>I'm sticking my neck out because I don't have the plans in front of me
>but my recollection of the way it worked on my -6A (pre-punch skins
>only) is like this: After everything was drilled and clecoed together,
>the skins, ribs, and baffle were drilled for riveting only; the screw
>holes were left as is. When I had prosealed and riveted the rear baffle
>onto the tank, I clecoed the tank back to the spar (with saran wrap
>between spar and tank) using the screw locations and let the proseal
>set. This made the tank skin conform to the spar without having to
>guess and pre-bend the rear flange. Then I drilled out the screw
>locations and countersunk them - the countersink went through the top
>skin, a thin layer of proseal, and part of the baffle. Next I drilled
>the rivet locations on the spar (for the platenuts) and dimpled and
>squeezed them in place. The screw holes on the outboard end of the tank
>(except at the spar) were dimpled. I hope this made sense and is useful
>for the -7.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
I am posting this just so it goes to the archives as an endorsement.
For anyone just starting their wings, go to Dan's site at
http://rvproject.com and print off his detailed assembly process for
aligning your tank Z brackets. The plans call for you to drill a couple
holes in the Z brackets and more or less, enlarge the holes until you get
the skin/skin alignment you want. I have not had to "enlarge", "redrill",
"reposition" anything yet and I was not about to start now. Dan's process
perfectly aligns the Z brackets so you get a fabulous fit between your tank
skins and outboard leading edge. It's takes a little more time, but well
worth the effort.
Thanks Dan,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Question |
Vince,
I agree with Randy - it will be much more cost effective to pay the
shipping. You'll have more than enough F/G fun fitting the proper cowl than
you want.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (70+ hrs) (Wheel pants & fairings almost done)
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowling Question
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:09:19 -0700
>
>
>Vince,
>
>As one who has a parallel valve carbureted O-360 I haven't studies all the
>intake options for the angle valve motors, but I would advise you to
>arrange
>a cowl swap with Van's rather than attempt to cut off the intake scoop and
>glass it over. Yes, it can be done, but you would spend a lot of time
>trying
>to get a nice smooth surface there, and the cowl would likely be
>compromised
>sctructurally. Van's is normally fairly cooperative in areas such as this.
>
>FWIW,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, 185 hrs, with way too much time spent customizing a cowl.
>
>
> > Hey guys, I need the benefit of your collective wisdom yet AGAIN. I was
> > originally planning to use an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel
>injection
> > for my RV-8A. Therefore, I ordered the appropriat cowl with my finish
>kit.
> >
> > Since that time I have gotten a "too good to pass up" deal on an IO-360.
> > Now I need to exchange the cowl bottom for the smooth bottom cowl. This
> > brings us to my problem, I have been trying a few days now and it seems
>that
> > I am going to have to go through more hassel and cost than I want to
>endure.
> >
> > As I see it, my options are to leave well enough alone and accept the
>fact
> > that I will have an unecessary scoop hanging in the breeze and adding to
>the
> > drag forever. Or, I can cut the scoop off. If I cut it off and glass
>over
> > it will it affect the strength of the cowl? Should I use carbon fiber
>to
> > stiffen it? Do I have any other choices? Am I making too big a deal of
> > this?
> >
> > Vince Welch
> > Fighting this thing to the bitter end.
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Mike, I'd love to exchange the cowl if I could just get by these shipping
issues. I'm looking at a minimum charge of $100.00 EACH way by truck. UPS
says its too large for them to handle.
Vince
>From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Cowl Question
>Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 08:50:46 -0700
>
>
>
>You will much happier if you swap for the right cowl.
>Mike Wilson, RV4 with custom made cowl.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vincent Welch [mailto:welchvincent(at)hotmail.com]
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Cowl Question
>
>
>I need to call upon your collective wisdom AGAIN. I had originally planned
>on an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel injection for my RV-8A. Since
>that time I got a "too good to pass" price on an IO-360.
>
>Now the problem. I have the cowl bottom with the scoop. I tried to return
>it for exchange for the smooth bottom cowl. It is starting to look like
>return shipping is going to be more trouble than its worth.
>
>Is it possible to cut off the scoop and reglass it? Will there be any
>strength issues? Should I use carbon fiber to stiffen it? OR am I going
>to
>
>have to accept the fact that I will always have an uneeded scoop hanging in
>the breeze adding unecessary drag?
>
>Is there some option that I have overlooked?
>
>Vince
>Fighting the never ending battle
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
beautiful RV8A..0320, 160hp, 0smoh...C/S prop...radio. transpndr...rear
seat rudder peds..painted, plus upholstry..99..95% completed..just
$61,500.00...reason for selling....not enough time in the
day...503-678-3343...located, oregon..<<>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aft bulkhead misalignment |
| From: | "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Dear List-
I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the bulkheads.
All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the side
skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft of the
centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order to maintain
good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I needed to do
a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to drilling.
I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep the
main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was accomplished
to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the fuse.
What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out of alignment
with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface protrudes 3/8" aft
on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling problem was on the right).
Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen the notches for the f811 bars
(the horns that hold the HS). The horns now seem to be somewhat out of alignment
with each other. While this does not affect construction at this time,
I can foresee the problems in the future, and see my options as the following:
1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would expect
to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly thick shim,
especially for the VS to sit properly.
2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would need
to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make proper
edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are already
drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task.
3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...)
I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything close to
this problem? What was the solution?
Thanks,
Jonathan Weiswasser
RV-8, fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
That's beautiful. Almost makes me wish I had z brackets on my -6A. He
is also an excellent photographer; I wish my project photos all came out
that well. That's a great site, thanks for posting it.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Z brackets
I am posting this just so it goes to the archives as an endorsement.
For anyone just starting their wings, go to Dan's site at
http://rvproject.com and print off his detailed assembly process for
aligning your tank Z brackets. The plans call for you to drill a couple
holes in the Z brackets and more or less, enlarge the holes until you
get
the skin/skin alignment you want. I have not had to "enlarge",
"redrill",
"reposition" anything yet and I was not about to start now. Dan's
process
perfectly aligns the Z brackets so you get a fabulous fit between your
tank
skins and outboard leading edge. It's takes a little more time, but
well
worth the effort.
Thanks Dan,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 tilt-up canopy trimming |
Gentlemen -
I'm in the process of trimming the canopy for my RV6 tilt-up. I
(unfortunately it turns out) riveted the f632 channel (cabin) brace in place
with the f631 cabin frame and fuselage, and so I can't use the recommended
method of resting the canopy on top of the cabin frame and trimming the
front until the aft canopy comes up to the fuse skin.
I've got the aft canopy positioned under the skin, resting on the channel
brace in the rear, and on the canopy skin in front. I started with the
forward canopy about 1/2" from the forward edge of the canopy forward skin,
and I've trimmed now so the forward edge of the canopy has moved to ~2" back
from the forward edge.
I'm judging the fit by watching the space between the canopy top and the
f631 cabin frame (to which the canopy will be fastened). It appears that
the canopy needs to come down another ~3/4" in order to rest on the canopy
frame.
As I keep trimming, the front of the canopy is getting shorter, but it
doesn't look to me that the canopy is getting any closer to the cabin frame.
Before I trim this back any more I could use some advise. Should I keep
trimming? Should I place a shim under the f631 cabin brace to raise it (the
manual says this can be done up to 3/16"). Couldn't find much in the
archives. Any of your help would be appreciated!
Best regards, Peter
Peter Blake
60 Beverly Drive
Kintnersville, PA 18930
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Question |
> Mike, I'd love to exchange the cowl if I could just get by these shipping
> issues. I'm looking at a minimum charge of $100.00 EACH way by truck.
UPS
> says its too large for them to handle.
>
> Vince
When you're in the middle of days of fiberglass work trying to get the mod
done you will think that $100 each way is a bargain. I know that sounds hard
to believe, but trust me, you will agree. Also, Van's has likely negotiated
freight rates with various trucking companies: order your new cowl first and
have them bill you for freight both ways, then return the old cowl in the
same box with the same carrier. You will need to go to the nearest freight
terminal for pickup/deliver as trucking companies charge a fortune to come
to your house, they're just not set up for it like UPS.
You'll thank us later,
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tilt-up canopy trimming |
STOP!
did you cut the canopy bubble in 1/2 yet? if not do so and it will fit to the
roll bar frame. you can trim the front edge of the canopy till the cows come
home, but until you cut it in half it will never seat right.
scott
tampa
ask me how i know
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | tank cradle orientation while riveting |
I want to get some advice on riveting the tank ribs. What's the most ideal
way of orienting the cradle while riveting?
With the leading edge (riveting from trailing to leading edge), it was
easy...I screwed it down vertically (normal) to my bench, we riveted from
the trailing edge "forward" (down), and when we got to where the curve was
too sharp for the rivet gun to have decent access (after having riveted most
of both sides), I took the ldg edge out of the cradle and laid it down flat
on the bench, riveting the rest with the ldg edge horizontal and "free".
Since the tank ribs are supposed to be riveted from the leading edge to the
trailing edge, I can't do that...gotta start with the tough access angle.
What do you guys recommend to make this easier? Use a cradle "tall" enough
so that even when screwed down you have decent access to the leading edge
rivets?
Just curious,
)_( Dan
dan at rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
Single point failure is something to consider, especially if it happens
during a flight. So, having backups is important (be sure and figure that
in the cost). I plan to include on my panel an electric turn coordinator
(on a backup battery and bus), airspeed, alt., oil pressure, tach., compass
and fuel guages. I will use the 2 1/4inch versions. Even if my efis box is
in the shop, I still think I am legal to fly VFR. If after years of
reliable use, I may trim the list to needle ball, airspeed, compass and fuel
guages.
--
Michael Stephan
EAA Chapter 168
RV-8 builder
> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 23:50:02 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Blue Mountain
>
> Not a bad choice, however, you do need to consider the "single point of
> failure" issue. If something goes tango uniform in that little electronic
> box, and you have to send it in for service, your airplane is on the ground
> until the problem is fixed and the box reinstalled. With multiple steam
> gauges, probably 1/2 of them can be marked "inop" and you can legally fly the
> airplane. If any of the "flight critical" gauges dies, you could probably
> borrow one, assuming you're based at a medium-large field or know a friendly
> A&P, OR, you could have a replacement shipped next day from ACS or equivalent.
>
> Just something to consider.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Question |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I would try to find someone within driving distance who is waiting for their
finish kit for a O-360 and ask if they would order the smooth cowl and then
swap with them. Vans might be a place to start to find someone.
--
Michael Stephan
EAA Chapter 168
RV-8 builder
> From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 12:25:42 -0400
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cowling Question
>
> Hey guys, I need the benefit of your collective wisdom yet AGAIN. I was
> originally planning to use an O-360 with Airflow Performance fuel injection
> for my RV-8A. Therefore, I ordered the appropriat cowl with my finish kit.
>
> Since that time I have gotten a "too good to pass up" deal on an IO-360.
> Now I need to exchange the cowl bottom for the smooth bottom cowl. This
> brings us to my problem, I have been trying a few days now and it seems that
> I am going to have to go through more hassel and cost than I want to endure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank cradle orientation while riveting |
How about clamping the cradles on two separate tables. Stand in the space
bewteen the tables and rivet????
-Larry
http://BowenAero.com
--- Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> I want to get some advice on riveting the tank ribs. What's the most ideal
> way of orienting the cradle while riveting?
>
> With the leading edge (riveting from trailing to leading edge), it was
> easy...I screwed it down vertically (normal) to my bench, we riveted from
> the trailing edge "forward" (down), and when we got to where the curve was
> too sharp for the rivet gun to have decent access (after having riveted most
> of both sides), I took the ldg edge out of the cradle and laid it down flat
> on the bench, riveting the rest with the ldg edge horizontal and "free".
>
> Since the tank ribs are supposed to be riveted from the leading edge to the
> trailing edge, I can't do that...gotta start with the tough access angle.
> What do you guys recommend to make this easier? Use a cradle "tall" enough
> so that even when screwed down you have decent access to the leading edge
> rivets?
>
> Just curious,
> )_( Dan
> dan at rvproject . com
> http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow through the cabin. |
I put an additional NACA vent in the same place on the right side of the
forward fuse and put the vent in the cabin so it would blow on my torso...
I am very glad I did... I can relly get a lot of air moving around in
there...
TO cut the NACA shaped hole in right skin, I layed the left skin on the
right skin to mark the hole, then used my Dremel to cut it out...
-Bill
RV-8A 28+ hours...
See you all at Longmont this weekend!
http://vondane.com/rv8a
----Original Message Follows----
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow through the cabin.
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:51:27 -0400 07:50:34 AM
Hey Glenn, how bout mounting a second hidden set under your subpanel and
using a Y fitting to feed both. Then one hits your face and one hits the
sweaty bod. I'll let ya know in a year how it works.
Eric
"Glenn Gordon" (at)matronics.com on
06/26/2002 04:19:05 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Airflow through the cabin.
Hi,
I would like to get more cool air blowing through the NACA/eyeball vents on
my RV-6. Will I get better airflow if I cut some holes into the baggage
area aft bulkhead panel? Can you recommended the total square area of the
holes?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
50 hours :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B Excel Spreadsheet |
Right mouse click on the link on my main page and select "Save Target As" or
"Save Link As". Then just save it to your PC...
-Bill
http://vondane.com/rv8a
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B Excel Spreadsheet
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:13:57 -0700
Bill,
How do I copy this to put on my computer? When I try to save it with "Save
As" I am asked for a username and password. When I select and copy the
page, the graph is missing.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: W&B Excel Spreadsheet
>
> I have made my W&B Spreadsheet available for download on my site... You
can
> get it at the link below if your interested...
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/N8WV-W&B.xls
>
> I am also working on one that you can use on your iPAQ...
>
> -Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | tank cradle orientation while riveting |
You can go to this link: http://www.flion.com/rv6a/chap18.htm to get a
look at how I did it. My cradles were not linked together and I could
move the tank near the workbench edge to reach the leading edge rivets.
The cradles are just a support stand at this point; the tank is already
drilled and clecoed. In fact, there were a couple of times when I just
used one cradle.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: Re: RV-List: tank cradle orientation while riveting
How about clamping the cradles on two separate tables. Stand in the
space
bewteen the tables and rivet????
-Larry
http://BowenAero.com
--- Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> I want to get some advice on riveting the tank ribs. What's the most
ideal
> way of orienting the cradle while riveting?
>
> With the leading edge (riveting from trailing to leading edge), it was
> easy...I screwed it down vertically (normal) to my bench, we riveted
from
> the trailing edge "forward" (down), and when we got to where the curve
was
> too sharp for the rivet gun to have decent access (after having
riveted most
> of both sides), I took the ldg edge out of the cradle and laid it down
flat
> on the bench, riveting the rest with the ldg edge horizontal and
"free".
>
> Since the tank ribs are supposed to be riveted from the leading edge
to the
> trailing edge, I can't do that...gotta start with the tough access
angle.
> What do you guys recommend to make this easier? Use a cradle "tall"
enough
> so that even when screwed down you have decent access to the leading
edge
> rivets?
>
> Just curious,
> )_( Dan
> dan at rvproject . com
> http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain |
The PCFlightsystems iPAQ based PCEFIS and EPANEL appear to be direct competitors
to
the BlueMountain system- The EPANEL would be a single source failure item but
the
PCEFIS could be (according to the mfgr.) used on duplicate iPAQ's, one for EFIS
and
one for GPS mapping, switchable between them for some redundancy, at least for
the
display. Their website shows such a configuration. See:
http://pcflightsystems.com/
Has anyone here investigated these or have any actual flight experience with them?
I am considering using these (two iPAQ's) with a separate engine monitor, airspeed
indicator and altimeter plus separate fuel gauges in my VFR panel with handheld
backup (com & GPS) of course...
From the PossumWorks
Mark - panel planning
Michael Stephan wrote:
> Single point failure is something to consider, especially if it happens
> during a flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | F-1 Rocket Kit, Engine, Prop for sale |
F-1 ROCKET KIT, ENGINE, PROP,INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE FOR IMMEDIATE SALE!! I
have for sale an F-1 Rocket kit, a completely overhauled IO-540 C4B5 engine
(overhauled by Don George), and a new Hartzell 3-bladed prop. Instrumentation
includes but not limited to: new Garmin 250XL radio, fuel guages, fuel
pressure, EI volt/ammeter, manifold pressure guage. Also included is a NavAid
autopilot unit. Unit servo is installed and attached to the torgue tube.
Wings are closed up and I have position and strobe lights as well as a tail
white light. Also included is a F-1 Rocket tailgroup. Skeleton is built,
ready to be skinned. This F-1 Rocket kit is extremely far along in its build.
Electrical sub-panel complete including all circuit breakers installed.
Interior Fuselage is complete. Fuel system complete with the exception of the
installation of the electric fuel pump (included). Engine has the airflow
performance kit, started, alternator, Rose electronic ignition with the ring
gear for high powered engines, 10:1 compression engine. Master solenoid,
starter solenoid are included. Almost everything needed to complete rocket is
included. Rocket could be flying in approx 5 months with some effort. Will
consider the first $85,000. Please no tire kickers. Contact Scott Brown
located Palm Beach Gardens FL USA. Telephone: 561-848-3418 or cell
561-373-3797 or email me at BrownScottA(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: aft bulkhead misalignment |
to do the job "right"..first measure the jig..and check it for alignment...I suspect
something is out....then put the fuse back into the jig, and see where the
BIG mistakes are...you might be surprised....then proceed...otherwise you will
have to "live" with this on your mind for a long while..OR call Van's and
ask what to do...good luck..
"jonweisw(at)rcn.com" wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
>
> Dear List-
>
> I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the bulkheads.
All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the side
skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft of the
centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order to maintain
good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I needed to
do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to drilling.
>
> I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep
the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was accomplished
to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the fuse.
What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out of alignment
with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface protrudes 3/8" aft
on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling problem was on the right).
Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen the notches for the f811
bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now seem to be somewhat out of alignment
with each other. While this does not affect construction at this time,
I can foresee the problems in the future, and see my options as the following:
>
> 1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would expect
to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly thick shim,
especially for the VS to sit properly.
>
> 2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would need
to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make proper
edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are already
drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task.
>
> 3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...)
>
> I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything close
to this problem? What was the solution?
>
> Thanks,
> Jonathan Weiswasser
> RV-8, fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: aft bulkhead misalignment |
Jonathan
I had similar problems with the 811 and 812 bulkheads.
I found that the frame members of the jig were not fully perpendicular
and that the centerline had shifted trying to turn the fuse into a
parallogram shape.
I found that the sideskins were identical and really should line up at
the end pretty close.
ended up ordering new 811 and 812 bukheads from Van's and redoing just
that part, I also ordered a new bottom tail skin. (if you don't know
what to do with your old bottom tail skin look at :
http://www.execpc.com/~gert/ it'll give you an idea my son thought of ;-)
Anyway drilling out the rivets and redoing it was really dead easy and I
am very happy I did it.
Just installed the wings and everything worked out quite good as far as
centerlines and levels was concerned.
jollyd wrote:
>
> to do the job "right"..first measure the jig..and check it for alignment...I
suspect something is out....then put the fuse back into the jig, and see where
the BIG mistakes are...you might be surprised....then proceed...otherwise you
will have to "live" with this on your mind for a long while..OR call Van's and
ask what to do...good luck..
>
> "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
>>
>>Dear List-
>>
>>I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the bulkheads.
All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the side
skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft of the
centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order to maintain
good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I needed to
do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to drilling.
>>
>>I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep
the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was accomplished
to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the fuse.
What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out of alignment
with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface protrudes 3/8" aft
on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling problem was on the right).
Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen the notches for the f811
bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now seem to be somewhat out of alignment
with each other. While this does not affect construction at this time,
I can foresee the problems in the future, and see my options as the following:
>>
>>1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would expect
to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly thick shim,
especially for the VS to sit properly.
>>
>>2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would need
to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make proper
edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are already
drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task.
>>
>>3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...)
>>
>>I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything close
to this problem? What was the solution?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Jonathan Weiswasser
>>RV-8, fuselage
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: aft bulkhead misalignment |
I am having trouble picturing this even though I am a week away from where
you are right now in the build process. Do you have a digital camera and
can post some pictures? Other than that I recommend visiting other builders
or finished airplanes if at all possible. Also call Vans.
I am at the local airport every weekend watching the building of 2 8's plus
one finished and flying. This has saved me many headaches and I highly
recommend it even though it might be a long drive.
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com"
>
>Dear List-
>
>I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the
>bulkheads. All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the
>side skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft
>of the centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order
>to maintain good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I
>needed to do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to
>drilling.
>
>I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep
>the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was
>accomplished to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the
>fuse. What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out
>of alignment with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface
>protrudes 3/8" aft on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling
>problem was on the right). Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen
>the notches for the f811 bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now
>seem to be somewhat out of alignment with each other. While this does not
>affect construction at this time, I can foresee the problems in the future,
>and see my options as the following:
>
>1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would
>expect to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly
>thick shim, especially for the VS to sit properly.
>
>2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would
>need to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make
>proper edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are
>already drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task.
>
>3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...)
>
>I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything
>close to this problem? What was the solution?
>
>Thanks,
>Jonathan Weiswasser
>RV-8, fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tilt-up canopy trimming |
Peter,
STOP TRIMMING!
I did mine the exact same way last summer. I called Tom at Van's on this
and he told me to just stop trimming and go ahead and cut it in two. When
you split the halves in two, it gets really "floppy" and will drop the last
1/2-3/4 in. You'll be amazed. But trimming from the front any more will
just mess you up.
Let me know if you have any questions, or call Van's. They are well versed
in this exact question.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 finish
Denver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net>
>
> I'm judging the fit by watching the space between the canopy top and the
> f631 cabin frame (to which the canopy will be fastened). It appears that
> the canopy needs to come down another ~3/4" in order to rest on the canopy
> frame.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360 For sale |
Sorry, here are the details: Data plate is an O-360, but it has fuel
injection, so it is an IO-360, just not on the data plate.
O-360 A1D Narrow Deck Straight Valve
77 SMOH
Came out of a Pitts in a museum. (Not wrecked)
Inverted oil return vent on Sump.
Bendix Fuel Injector
Heavy Starter
No alternator
It was in a museum since 1974. It was pickled the entire time. Just went
through a tear down and all checked out ok.
Seller will also include a Sensenich Metal Prop (I don't know the pitch, but
it's for an experimental)
$13,000. FOB Phoenix Arizona.
Reply off list if interested.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tilt-up canopy trimming |
Yep, Keith is right. I've done two of them. I kept trimming and then
decided to stop. If you trim too much, the canopy will be much lower and
you won't have the headroom. Go ahead and cut it, it will fall into place.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 tilt-up canopy trimming
>
> Peter,
>
> STOP TRIMMING!
>
> I did mine the exact same way last summer. I called Tom at Van's on this
> and he told me to just stop trimming and go ahead and cut it in two. When
> you split the halves in two, it gets really "floppy" and will drop the
last
> 1/2-3/4 in. You'll be amazed. But trimming from the front any more will
> just mess you up.
>
> Let me know if you have any questions, or call Van's. They are well
versed
> in this exact question.
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 finish
> Denver
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net>
> >
> > I'm judging the fit by watching the space between the canopy top and the
> > f631 cabin frame (to which the canopy will be fastened). It appears
that
> > the canopy needs to come down another ~3/4" in order to rest on the
canopy
> > frame.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
Hi John &Patti:
I am wondering about the 160 degree oil temp in 90 degree outside air. At
that outside air temp the vernatherm valve should be nearly closed if not
completely closed at high power settings to maintain the oil temp at the
180-185 degree temp that is set at.
The vernatherm is in a fully open state on start-up which lets most of the
oil to by-pass the cooler and as the oil temp rises the heat sensitive
coiled spring on the vernatherm starts to lengthen forcing more and more oil
through the cooler. If the oil cooling system has sufficient capacity the
vernatherm will never be fully closed, it will maintain the oil temp in the
180-190 degree range regardless of operating conditions, it is acting just
like the thermostat in a automobile only instead on opening to let the
coolant through the rad in the Lycoming it is closing to force more oil
through the cooler.
When the oil temp gets above the vernatherm setting it means it is fully
closed and if the oil temp continues to rise it means that the cooling
system doesn't have the capacity under the existing conditions to maintaing
the vernatherm setting.
I have found on my RV 6 that the oil temp will stay in the 180-190 degree
range unless climbing at a low airspeed on a hot day which is easily
controlled by increasing the airspeed and is not an issue as one gets higher
into cooler air and back to cruise power.
On the other side of the scale I find that when the temperatures get down
around the freezing mark, the vernatherm is now fully open and with the
amount of oil that is still going through the cooler it will over-cool with
the oil temp dropping below the vernatherm setting and the fix for this is
partial covering of the cooler. In the winter months here our
temperatures normally don't go below zero F so covering the cooler about 75%
gets the vernatherm back on the job and eliminates the need for a
controllable shutter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Patti Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Positech oil cooler
>
> I have been using an oil coler from Earl's for over 5 years and 530 plus
> hours. It developed a pin hole and I decided it was time to get another
> one. After 6 weeks and no delivery in sight, I decided to install a
> Positech from Van's in spite of all the negative pub.
> I flew today with the new Positech, fully expecting to have a cooling
> problem. Much to my surprise, the oil temperature ran cooler than with
> the larger Earl's cooler. On a 90 degree day, the oil refused to climb
> over 160 degrees even at full throttle for a long period.
> I really believe the Positech will do the job if you get the air through
> it.
> I now need to fab a door to block some of the air. By the way, I also
> have # 6 fittings and hoses on it.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | albert.gardner(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
I read all the posts regarding high temps and ordered a
SW 10 coil for my O-320 on a 9A. Unfortunatly, I found
that there was not room to install it on the rear
baffle. Witgh a little work it could probably be
installed elsewhere but I'm going to try Vans cooler
first.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A
Yuma, AZ
>
> I have been using an oil coler from Earl's for over 5 years and 530 plus
> hours. It developed a pin hole and I decided it was time to get another
> one. After 6 weeks and no delivery in sight, I decided to install a
> Positech from Van's in spite of all the negative pub.
> I flew today with the new Positech, fully expecting to have a cooling
> problem. Much to my surprise, the oil temperature ran cooler than with
> the larger Earl's cooler. On a 90 degree day, the oil refused to climb
> over 160 degrees even at full throttle for a long period.
> I really believe the Positech will do the job if you get the air through
> it.
> I now need to fab a door to block some of the air. By the way, I also
> have # 6 fittings and hoses on it.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank cradle orientation while riveting |
In a message dated 06/27/2002 12:24:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
> What do you guys recommend to make this easier? Use a cradle "tall" enough
> so that even when screwed down you have decent access to the leading edge
> rivets?
Dan,
I used the leg stand from my joiner. Without the tool in place it's just a
table with legs, end and side rails, and no top. I just mounted three 2x4s
across the side rails to hold the U shaped supports. Worked fab.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4 Fuselage
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | flop tube anti hang-up strips |
Today I tried to determine if the flop tube anti hang-up strips are really
necessary as Van's plans very vaguely suggests. I attached the flop tube
and rotated the tank around, trying to get the tube to get hung up. As hard
as I tried, the tube wouldn't get caught anywhere, and it definitely doesn't
go anywhere near the trap door.
I riveted a "chafe strip" over the inspection hole, but that's all I'm
planning on doing.
Pictures of my trials and tribulations:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020627.html
Can anybody corroborate this approach? Or, if you have a good reason why I
should do anything additional (like the little diagonal stiffener to 2nd rib
strip that the plans "hint" at), please let me know before I start
sealing/riveting ribs... 8
)
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (tanks)
dan at rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | Autopilot for RV6A |
I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
(roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
Roger Crandell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flop tube anti hang-up strips |
In a message dated 6/27/2002 8:33:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
> Today I tried to determine if the flop tube anti hang-up strips are really
> necessary as Van's plans very vaguely suggests. I attached the flop tube
> and rotated the tank around, trying to get the tube to get hung up. As
> hard
> as I tried, the tube wouldn't get caught anywhere, and it definitely
> doesn't
> go anywhere near the trap door.
>
Try it with 6g acting on it in all possible directions and you might
reconsider. That brass end is pretty massive and could make the hose go out
of column.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 525hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
Roger,
I installed the EZ trim and used the same servo as my electric trim.
Works great. I used a variable speed control on the servo, wasn't
necessary.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
Roger, I installed a S-Tec Alt. Hld to compliment my Navaid which I acquired
from Stark Avionics for $2916.00 including the installation kit. I am not
flying yet but it was easy to install and after wiring, the test of its
operation is encouraging.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
>
> I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
>
> Roger Crandell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator, please! |
A lot of talk by the layman again.
You are pretty much with the program so far as I see it Jim,
I think:
Water in a fuel system and it's fuel lines does or can do many things.
The movement of fuel and any water therein in an aircrafts fuel system is a
complex dynamic study to say the least.
A drop of water is both heavier and thicker than fuel and where there is one
droplet there is likely to be others.
Resist the temptation to only picture a small roundish glob of water
bumbling around and along the inside of a tube with a fuel pushing past it
or shoving it along as it flows past the blob or tries to do so.
During flight the external forces that it's fuel is subject to include such
things as:
Continuous but not constant gravity, pump pressure, internal line flow
resistance, multiple device orifice restrictions, dynamic aircraft
acceleration and deceleration rates. There are also some internal forces
such as vaporization, expansion, and contraction caused by variations in
heat and cold and changes in altitude etc. All these forces can vary
dynamically to a surprising degree as the fuel is drawn, pushed, pulsed and
vibrated as it travels from the source (fuel tank) to the combustion
chamber.
A single drop of water will not remain statically in one place in the system
unless the aircraft is not in use. In the static state the water can freeze
and block or partially block the system. Also this blockage can or might
take place during flight due to altitude temperature change or a localized
air blast or air movement at some specific point in the system. Once the
freezing of this small amount of water takes place it will become a
restriction to flow that will be added to by any new amounts of water that
arrive on the scene. This activity could continue on and form a partial or a
complete blockage. Before a complete blockage forms a change in temperature,
vibration, or internal system pulsing could dislodge the partially formed
ice crystal or crystals at which point they become material that can collect
and form a dam at the next opportunity along the flow path.
Depending on all the variables described and some I cannot think of or
describe here, the water could be molecularly slithering along the inside
surface of the tube, flopping along in an ever shape changing droplet, or
due to a local area high frequency vibration traveling momentarily
emulsified like a mist in the fuel. It might for instance, momentarily lay
in the bottom of a portion of the tubing like a little rippling puddle with
fuel act like a wind blowing across the surface.
At the right temperature, the above mentioned molecular mist might plate out
around the edges of the next opening it finds and slowly choke of the flow
of fuel. Any one or some number of these conditions might exist in the fuel
system at any one time in different locations.
So far the subject of corrosion has not been touched on.
I have seen first hand an aircraft mechanical pump that due to poor fuel
system management acquired some small amount of water. The water settled to
the lower extremities of the pump and eventually began to cause corrosion.
The problem only became evident to the aircraft owner after one skillful go
around and another attempted take off that required another skillful
maneuver to avoid the airfield fence! The cause was a lack of fuel pressure
due corrosion build up in the lower pump valve. This aircraft was flown
sport aerobatically regularly and one would think that the problem would
have shown it's self more obviously.
After having described this little chamber of horrors I will point out that
with good fuel system design and management most aircraft do not fall victim
to any one or any number of the above cobbled together described maladies.
If you lack trained expertise. Please think carefully about any proposed
changes to fuel system designs. Seek assistance from the designer where
possible and or at least a couple of other recognized professionals.
I am not suggesting that every system should have a gas collator. Neither am
I advising against the use of filters.
I am trying to suggest that there is good reasons for including one when the
system designer calls for it.
Please keep in mind that I will welcome any corrections or additional
information. I do need to learn.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> My thought - in a carbureted engine without a gascolator, water would
> collect in the bottom of the carburetor float bowl and fill it up until
> the engine began to pull in pure water. It would be unlikely that the
> engine could run long enough to clear out the bowl. On an injected
> engine, however, small amounts of water could be injected along with the
> fuel and the engine could probably handle this, assuming that most of the
> water in the fuel had already been drained from the tank sumps.
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
Scott wrote:
Is a gascolator
> needed or is it just redundant. Vans does not use a gascolator on their
> injected engines.
>
> Any Thoughts
> Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flop tube anti hang-up strips |
I added the other brace because there was a concern that the pickup end of
the tube could get forced towards the nose of the tank and get stuck there.
The pickup line would be in a "U" shape and instead of picking up from the
rear of tank, it would pickup from the nose. Not good. It's just a simple
piece of angle attached to the rib with the door in it and also the shin
reinforce angle at bottom of tank..
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: flop tube anti hang-up strips
>
> Today I tried to determine if the flop tube anti hang-up strips are really
> necessary as Van's plans very vaguely suggests. I attached the flop tube
> and rotated the tank around, trying to get the tube to get hung up. As
hard
> as I tried, the tube wouldn't get caught anywhere, and it definitely
doesn't
> go anywhere near the trap door.
>
> I riveted a "chafe strip" over the inspection hole, but that's all I'm
> planning on doing.
>
> Pictures of my trials and tribulations:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20020627.html
>
> Can anybody corroborate this approach? Or, if you have a good reason why
I
> should do anything additional (like the little diagonal stiffener to 2nd
rib
> strip that the plans "hint" at), please let me know before I start
> sealing/riveting ribs... 8
)
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (tanks)
> dan at rvproject . com
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage top skins |
I'm about ready to drill and rivet the 2 fuselage top skin for a tip-up
RV-7A.
I'm having to flute the bulkheads a lot to get the pre-punched holes to line
up.
In one bulkhead I have a few flutes 1/4 - 1/2" deep.
Have others experienced this as well?
Everything lines up well now but certainly
if the pre-punched holes were better, this deep fluting would not be
required.
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | waterborne paint |
Does anyone have any experience with non-toxic waterborne epoxy or
urethane paint on metal aircraft? I have been told by the
manufacturer not to use Top Gloss on metal. How about Aircraft
Finishing Systems waterborne epoxy?
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | flop tube anti hang-up strips |
Dan,
I would suggest sticking with the plans. Consider the forces of avgas while
gyrating around the sky.
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
Des Moines, IA
Today I tried to determine if the flop tube anti hang-up strips are really
necessary as Van's plans very vaguely suggests. I attached the flop tube
and rotated the tank around, trying to get the tube to get hung up. As hard
as I tried, the tube wouldn't get caught anywhere, and it definitely doesn't
go anywhere near the trap door.
I riveted a "chafe strip" over the inspection hole, but that's all I'm
planning on doing.
Pictures of my trials and tribulations:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020627.html
Can anybody corroborate this approach? Or, if you have a good reason why I
should do anything additional (like the little diagonal stiffener to 2nd rib
strip that the plans "hint" at), please let me know before I start
sealing/riveting ribs... 8
)
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (tanks)
dan at rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
| Subject: | Re: waterborne paint |
09:30:43 AM
JUST SAY NO! If it don't cause tumors and three-headed baby's it sucks.
This stuff is formulated by tree-hugging legal compliance fascist NOT
professional painters. Use a well known paint producer (PPG, SW, Dupont,
Kolor) that has a good record. Painting a plane is not easy, re-painting
one and removing a faulty product from your rivet lines really sucks. Let
Jerry Brown and Al Gore paint their Limo's with that crap if they want to.
I suggest you go with tried and true, established paint. I used to love the
failed product that was advertised a few years back. It said "you can drink
our thinner". To which I had to think, "so what, I have beer". I almost
never need to drink thinner. Now chances are the paint your were putting on
was just as toxic as anything else so again who cares? Wouldn't use it to
paint daiseys on a hippies microbus.
Eric
George Frost (at)matronics.com on 06/28/2002 09:57:59
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: waterborne paint
Does anyone have any experience with non-toxic waterborne epoxy or
urethane paint on metal aircraft? I have been told by the
manufacturer not to use Top Gloss on metal. How about Aircraft
Finishing Systems waterborne epoxy?
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
When you do the math, the Digiflight 200 is cheaper than the combo mentioned
below, and flies far better than either of the units in the combo below plus
it has more features.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
> Roger, I installed a S-Tec Alt. Hld to compliment my Navaid which I
acquired
> from Stark Avionics for $2916.00 including the installation kit. I am not
> flying yet but it was easy to install and after wiring, the test of its
> operation is encouraging.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
> >
> > I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> > RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> > costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> > and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> > (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> > have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> > be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
> >
> > Roger Crandell
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
I have S Tech in my RV8. I love it. Provides a backup gyro in case you lose
your vacum system.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New business venture... |
Ken, Congratulations on taking the initiative. I think your right, there is
a market for some kind of builders assistance in this area. A short time ago
I had this same discussion with the director of the aviation program at the
NH Vo-Tech college here in Nashua. At the time we were thinking of a
potential use for airport property then available at a NH airport. Our ideas
were to combine training with hands on help. The idea was to cover all the
disciplines needed to complete a project, and concentrate on help during the
first and last phases -- the first ten percent and the last ten percent. I
still think it was a good idea and we found that there was a great pool of
talent for such a program. The one drawback was convenient access -- a
location that could induce people to come for short training sessions as well
as extended stays for real builders assistance.
At any rate, great idea and if there is any way I can help, let me know.
I am still waiting for parts to finish. I expect the IK2000 next week and I
decided to change my transponder because I couldn't make my original one
work. I found a MicroAir 2 !/4 in. one in Ohio and I expect that today.
Planning for a mid July inspection date so spending my time finishing the
paperwork. By now you should be finished your 25 hours so we will be looking
for you here in ASH.
Take care, Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: waterborne paint |
I am currently using PRC DeSoto CA-5500 water based epoxy chromate primer on
my F1 project. This stuff is tough, has very good adhesion, sprays great,
and cleans up with water but is as toxic as anything else. I conceder the
water clean up a major plus because it reduces my exposure to the solvents
normally used to clean my gun.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
>
> I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
>
> Roger Crandell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Traveling Builders Assistance |
Ken, I know you didn't archive but someone in the future might want to find
your service so it should be there.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: New business venture...
>
> Warning: commercial message follows. Delete now if not interested...
>
> Over the past few years, I've found, as have many of you, that RV's have
> become more and more of a focus in my life. As I progressed through the
> building phase of my RV-8 project, I was continually impressed with the
> fellowship and community I found among RV builders and pilots. As my
> project came to its conclusion, I decided that I wanted to continue to
> be immersed full-time in the RV community.
>
> Toward that end, I've spent considerable time trying to define a niche
> that would permit me to contribute to the RV community while, at the
> same time, generating at least a small income. It occurred to me that
> an ideal enterprise would be a builder's assistance center here in the
> northeast, an area of the country which has, to date, largely been
> languishing in the wilderness of the RV world. The northeast hasn't
> been lacking RV builders, so much as it's lacked the organization and
> services to be found in other areas of the country.
>
> I began to address this perceived deficiency in September 2000, when I
> formed the Boston RV Builders group, now the Van's Air Force - New
> England Wing. We're currently over sixty members strong and growing
> steadily. Earlier this month we had our first public event, the first
> annual RV Flyin at Nashua, NH. The organization of RV builders and
> pilots in the northeast is coming along wonderfully, but the locally
> available services are somewhere between inadequate and nonexistent.
>
> A local builder's assistance center would, I think, be a welcome
> addition to the RV landscape. I am currently seeking a suitable site
> for the center and will keep the list apprised of any significant
> progress.
>
> In the meanwhile, I would like to offer my builder assistance services
> on a traveling basis. It seems to me that, for every individual with
> the time, money & inclination to bring his project to an assistance
> center for a period of months, there are at least several more builders
> who only want and/or need help for a day or two here and there, while
> working on specific parts of their project. Perhaps someone would like
> an experienced hand assisting while mounting their wings, or plumbing
> their engine, or cutting their canopy, etc. Think of it: builder
> assistance that comes to you! With my RV now flying, I have the perfect
> means to travel to anyone's site and work with them to complete their
> task at hand. The builder would get the assistance he wants, in the
> convenience of his own shop.
>
> I believe that the idea of traveling builder assistance has merit and I
> don't know of anyone else currently addressing this niche. I am
> available anytime and will quote rates for specific projects on an
> individual basis, dependent on project location and duration.
>
> Any constructive ideas or comments will be gratefully accepted.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 N118KB
> Kilo Juliet Aviation
> kbalch1.home.attbi.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
Roger,
Are you aware that tru track has a lower priced unit for $1495.
I am putting the full system in an rv-7 that I helping a friend build.
Looks great.
ray
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
>
> I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
>
> Roger Crandell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
Yes, go to the Trutrak website @ www.trutrakflightsystems.com and go to the
what's new page. There you will find it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
> Roger,
>
> Are you aware that tru track has a lower priced unit for $1495.
> I am putting the full system in an rv-7 that I helping a friend build.
> Looks great.
>
> ray
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
> >
> > I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> > RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> > costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> > and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> > (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> > have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> > be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
> >
> > Roger Crandell
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
I have the same NavAid/S-Tec alt hold as Tom and Cathy and have been flying
with the combo for about a year or so, and its great.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
> Roger, I installed a S-Tec Alt. Hld to compliment my Navaid which I
acquired
> from Stark Avionics for $2916.00 including the installation kit. I am not
> flying yet but it was easy to install and after wiring, the test of its
> operation is encouraging.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
> To: ; ;
>
> Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
> >
> > I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> > RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> > costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> > and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> > (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> > have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> > be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
> >
> > Roger Crandell
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
Casper has a Navaid/ EzeTrim combination that has worked well when I've used it,
Probably 10 hours actual use.
Garry
John wrote:
>
> I have the same NavAid/S-Tec alt hold as Tom and Cathy and have been flying
> with the combo for about a year or so, and its great.
>
> John at Salida, CO
Snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum Video |
Fellow Listers:
We now have available a 90 minute video of the Twin Cities RV Forum held in
May. It includes segments of Forum speakers (Paul Irlbeck, Jim Younkin,
Jerry VanGrunsven, etc) plus pilot/builder interviews and other events that
day. Nothing fancy, but a nice overview of the Forum that I think you will
enjoy.
Price is $15 plus $3 shipping. If you are interested, send me a note.
Many thanks,
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I couldn't find
an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as possible
out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer. I've constructed
a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the wings while I finish
them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not attached to the ceiling) but am
a little unsure of how to mount the wings on it.
It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar overhang
on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off the horizontal
supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the QB wings are cut
even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support the wing on the tip
side.
My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the second-to-last
tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the top of the spar and
one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the spar. I'm sure this would
be strong enough to support the wing, but I don't want to drill holes in the spar
without seeking the counsel of wiser individuals. Does this seem like an
acceptable plan, or is there a better way?
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons do not
make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a bloody trail of designers
and quality assurance people in its wake."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Twin Cities RV Forum Video |
I am interested. Thanks, Art Glaser
Please advise payment methods by check or credit card etc>
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> We now have available a 90 minute video of the Twin Cities RV Forum held in
> May. It includes segments of Forum speakers (Paul Irlbeck, Jim Younkin,
> Jerry VanGrunsven, etc) plus pilot/builder interviews and other events that
> day. Nothing fancy, but a nice overview of the Forum that I think you will
> enjoy.
>
> Price is $15 plus $3 shipping. If you are interested, send me a note.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Doug Weiler
> pres, MN Wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Check out this link on Dan Checkoway's site -
http://www.rvproject.com/20020529.html - for some good pics that will
give you an idea.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brad Benson
Subject: RV-List: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q
After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as
possible out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer.
I've constructed a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the
wings while I finish them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not
attached to the ceiling) but am a little unsure of how to mount the
wings on it.
It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the
spar overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing
off the horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars
on the QB wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing
to support the wing on the tip side.
My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the
second-to-last tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the
top of the spar and one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the
spar. I'm sure this would be strong enough to support the wing, but I
don't want to drill holes in the spar without seeking the counsel of
wiser individuals. Does this seem like an acceptable plan, or is there
a better way?
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons
do not make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a
bloody trail of designers and quality assurance people in its wake."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Hi Brad,
You should be able to temporarily attach a piece of angle to the end rib
positioned so as to approximate the cut off spar extension if you like.
A couple of clamps, machine screws, Clekoes or some pop rivets that would be
drilled out later, (your choice). would work.
The clamps worked well for me.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q
>
>
> After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
>
>snip<
> It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar
overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off the
horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the QB
wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support the
wing on the tip side.
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Brad,
For painting I inserted a 5' length of 4" diameter PVC into the ribs at the
wingtip. Clamped the spar to one sawhorse and rested the PVC on another.
Worked very well.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 21 hours
After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as
possible out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer. I've
constructed a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the wings
while I finish them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not attached to the
ceiling) but am a little unsure of how to mount the wings on it.
It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar
overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off the
horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the QB
wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support the
wing on the tip side.
My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the
second-to-last tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the top of
the spar and one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the spar. I'm
sure this would be strong enough to support the wing, but I don't want to
drill holes in the spar without seeking the counsel of wiser individuals.
Does this seem like an acceptable plan, or is there a better way?
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons do
not make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a bloody trail
of designers and quality assurance people in its wake."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
06/28/2002 12:50:58 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/28/2002 12:50:58 PM
Brad,
Those of us who are "slow building" have to cut the spar off even with the
last rib prior to skinning the wing as well. What I did was use two
pieces of wood (probably 1/2" thick by 2"wide), but one on the inside of
the last rib, and one on the outside, bolt them together, and run a piece
of threaded rod through both of them to attach to the jig.
Scott
"Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
06/28/2002 11:03 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q
After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as
possible out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer. I've
constructed a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the wings
while I finish them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not attached to
the ceiling) but am a little unsure of how to mount the wings on it.
It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar
overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off
the horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the
QB wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support
the wing on the tip side.
My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the
second-to-last tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the top
of the spar and one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the spar.
I'm sure this would be strong enough to support the wing, but I don't want
to drill holes in the spar without seeking the counsel of wiser
individuals. Does this seem like an acceptable plan, or is there a
better way?
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons do
not make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a bloody
trail of designers and quality assurance people in its wake."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
if you are mounting your navaid servo to the wingtip, the remainning part of
the spar that you would normally cut off works as a good support for the
servo.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Brad, the new 7 spars do not require any type of cutting off the tip so I'd
say you could use the same technique. The plans call for using a 5" piece
of 1x1 alum stock. If you can get 2x2, you don't have to cut a groove in
your horizontal arm. Drill two holes in the stock and the outboard center
rib flange just below the spar, and bolt on the stock with a couple AN3-4
bolts. Hang it over the H arm and clamp it down.
If you need a closeup pic., let me know I'll send you an address.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Tank skin countersinking?? |
Well, I *did* say I don't have my -7 preview plans available; everything
RV-related is packed for my impending move. However, while the
platenuts were the last thing I did when putting my tanks together, I
was still able to use the large clecoes for the spar rivets to attach
the tank in place once the holes were drilled out for the screws. Even
after the nutplates were attached, I used the clecoes; they were faster
than screws and did not harm the nutplates. However, I am now not sure
I understand your question; the only contersinking on my tank was the
rear flange screw holes. Every other hole was either dimpled or stayed
flat (rear baffle to tank rib attachment). From the photos I found on
the web of -7s in progress, it looks like it would be the same but I'd
want to check the plans to be sure. Hopefully, your answer is in there
somewhere; I defer to the -7 builders with recent experience.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tank skin countersinking??
After reading Patrick's reply attached below, I am wondering if the
procedures for tank attachment are that much different between the 6 &
7.
All of the tank to spar attach screw holes are pre punched on the spar.
All
of the platenuts are already attached to the spar. I can set the tank
into
position on the spar but can't cleco anything, other than the attach
strip
between the outboard leading edge and tank. Like the old commercial
once
said.........."I'm confused":-) Well, not really. The plans call for
the
baffle to be riveted to the skins with the tanks skins countersunk for
the
skin/baffle attach points. The Z brackets have already been drilled
into
position. It's just a matter of dimpling for a #8 screw on the aft
holes of
the tank skin and dropping it in place.
This baffle/skin attach area countersinking vs. dimpling seems almost as
religious as priming and deburring in the archives:-) The plans
definitely
call for countersinking the tank skins for the baffle attach point and
using
AN3 rivets, although I see how this area could be placed in shear with
the
aft holes dimpled and screwed to the spar and the Z brackets popped to
the
aft side of the baffle.
Man, this turned into a long winded one.............sorry.
Deburr DNA......so it's either a born right to deburr or not. That
means we
really don't have a choice, it's predestined:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
>I'm sticking my neck out because I don't have the plans in front of me
>but my recollection of the way it worked on my -6A (pre-punch skins
>only) is like this: After everything was drilled and clecoed together,
>the skins, ribs, and baffle were drilled for riveting only; the screw
>holes were left as is. When I had prosealed and riveted the rear
baffle
>onto the tank, I clecoed the tank back to the spar (with saran wrap
>between spar and tank) using the screw locations and let the proseal
>set. This made the tank skin conform to the spar without having to
>guess and pre-bend the rear flange. Then I drilled out the screw
>locations and countersunk them - the countersink went through the top
>skin, a thin layer of proseal, and part of the baffle. Next I drilled
>the rivet locations on the spar (for the platenuts) and dimpled and
>squeezed them in place. The screw holes on the outboard end of the
tank
>(except at the spar) were dimpled. I hope this made sense and is
useful
>for the -7.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | sticksion of black plastic blocks |
I have an Rv9a. We are coming down the home stretch.
I am not sure if I should leave the black phenol blocks that hold the
rudder weldments alone... that they will work themselves looser, or to
sand/polish them to be smoother.
These plastic blocks are a little hard to work with. They are fairly
easy to cut and drill, but the drilled hole is smaller than the drill ,
when done. The cuts leave edges that don't want to clean up by standard
methods.
Do we lube the holes that the rudder weldments swing in? Should the
fitting be tight at installation , and they are expected to feel
smoother/looser in the real world?
I sat in the factory RV9a a SunNfun an it was SLICK! No slop and very
smooth.
What's a mother to do? Anyone crossed this problem?
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage/finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Thanks to everyone for the quick and helpful answers - much easier than what I
was thinking of doing and I'll feel a lot better without any additional holes
in the spar!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
"There is a reason why some options are the default... we who set the defaults
know what we're doing."
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 6/28/2002 at 1:03 PM Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
>After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
>couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
>
>I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as
>possible out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer.
>I've constructed a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the
>wings while I finish them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not attached
>to the ceiling) but am a little unsure of how to mount the wings on it.
>
>It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar
>overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off
>the horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the
>QB wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support
>the wing on the tip side.
>
>My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the
>second-to-last tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the top
>of the spar and one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the spar.
>I'm sure this would be strong enough to support the wing, but I don't want
>to drill holes in the spar without seeking the counsel of wiser
>individuals. Does this seem like an acceptable plan, or is there a
>better way?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
>Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
>Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
>Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons do
>not make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a bloody
>trail of designers and quality assurance people in its wake."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q |
Brad,
I used a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" thick aluminum angle clecoed to the aft
rib even with the jig to support my QB wings...worked fine...
Photos if you want them - zap me offline,
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing jig/fixture for RV6A-Q
>
>
> After searching the archives (like I always do when I'm stuck :-), I
couldn't find an answer and so want to gather the groups opinion.
>
> I've put off working on the wings of my RV6A QuickBuild for as long as
possible out of space requirements, but I can put it off no longer. I've
constructed a free standing jig/fixture that I will use to hold the wings
while I finish them (picture the 'H' jig on castors and not attached to the
ceiling) but am a little unsure of how to mount the wings on it.
>
> It seems that the traditional way to do this would be to just use the spar
overhang on either side (root and tip) of the wing to hold the wing off the
horizontal supports. The trouble with that is that the spars on the QB
wings are cut even with the tip rib already, leaving nothing to support the
wing on the tip side.
>
> My first thought is to use 1/8" aluminum strips extending from the
second-to-last tip rib out about 4" past the tip. One strip near the top of
the spar and one strip near the bottom, each pop-riveted to the spar. I'm
sure this would be strong enough to support the wing, but I don't want to
drill holes in the spar without seeking the counsel of wiser individuals.
Does this seem like an acceptable plan, or is there a better way?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
> Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
> Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
> Klingon Software Development: "What is this talk of 'release'? Klingons do
not make software 'releases'. Our software 'escapes,' leaving a bloody trail
of designers and quality assurance people in its wake."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stiction of black plastic blocks |
In a message dated 6/28/2002 1:47:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)comcast.net writes:
> I have an Rv9a. We are coming down the home stretch.
> I am not sure if I should leave the black phenol blocks that hold the
> rudder weldments alone... that they will work themselves looser, or to
> sand/polish them to be smoother.
I can't believe they would make these of Phenolic. More likely it's Delrin
(Acetal). It's pretty tough and I would try to sand them to get a better fit
initially.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 525hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A |
I too am interested in info from folks who have retro-fitted altitude hold
using the elevator Mac trim servo. I have a Navaid that works pretty well
but after returning from a 12 hour x-country trip some of which in IMC I
sure would have loved to figure out some simple way to add alt hold without
installing yet another servo and such..
Thanks,
Moshe Lichtman
RV-6 92 hours
>From: "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:47:54 -0500
>
>
>
>Yes, go to the Trutrak website @ www.trutrakflightsystems.com and go to
>the
>what's new page. There you will find it.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
>
>
> >
> > Roger,
> >
> > Are you aware that tru track has a lower priced unit for $1495.
> > I am putting the full system in an rv-7 that I helping a friend build.
> > Looks great.
> >
> > ray
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc(at)swcp.com>
> > To: ; ;
> >
> > Subject: RV6-List: Autopilot for RV6A
> >
> >
> > > --> RV6-List message posted by: Roger Crandell
> > >
> > > I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> > > RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> > > costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> > > and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single
>axis
> > > (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does
>anyone
> > > have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> > > be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
> > >
> > > Roger Crandell
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | sticksion of black plastic blocks |
-
Subject: RV-List: sticksion of black plastic blocks
I have an Rv9a. We are coming down the home stretch.
I am not sure if I should leave the black phenol blocks that hold the
rudder weldments alone... that they will work themselves looser, or to
sand/polish them to be smoother.
snip ----------------------------------
Hi Barry
Had the same problem on my 6-A, I took most of the powder coat off the
rudder weldment where the blocks fit. You want a nice friction free fit.
George McNutt
6-A flying - 38 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sticksion of black plastic blocks |
Hi Barry,
Of the three pivot blocks that support the over head rudder-brake pedal
assemblies, the center one is split, or is to be split to allow it to be
installed. To maintain proper fit, spacers or washers are suggested.
It turns out that the end blocks can be treated in the same manner as the
center block to ease future position adjustment, inspection and removal for
maintenance.
Before cutting the blocks it would be wise to polish the fit of the tubes
into the blocks as described and as suggested by George,
Also for those that choose to drill more than one set of mounting holes in
the angle rails that support the assemblies. The split blocks might allow
easier future fore and aft adjustment of the pedal assemblies.
Jim in Kelowna
Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: sticksion of black plastic blocks
>
>
> -
> Subject: RV-List: sticksion of black plastic blocks
>
>
> I have an Rv9a. We are coming down the home stretch.
> I am not sure if I should leave the black phenol blocks that hold the
> rudder weldments alone... that they will work themselves looser, or to
> sand/polish them to be smoother.
> snip ----------------------------------
>
> Hi Barry
>
> Had the same problem on my 6-A, I took most of the powder coat off the
> rudder weldment where the blocks fit. You want a nice friction free fit.
>
> George McNutt
> 6-A flying - 38 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Sorry if this ends up being a dumb question but I'm kind of curious about
this Z-bracket stuff. (My RV-6 wings were the old design, carved from a
solid ingot of aluminum with nothing but a hacksaw and a file.) From looking
at the web photos it appears that these so-called Z-brackets must be bolted
permanently to the spar before closing the wing. This implies the fuel tank
is not removable once the wing is finished. Is this so?
What is the point of having all the screws then?
I must be missing something. Do you get the Z-bracket bolts in through the
lightening holes somehow?
Curt
RV-6 to be flying this summer :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Z brackets
>
> That's beautiful. Almost makes me wish I had z brackets on my -6A. He
> is also an excellent photographer; I wish my project photos all came out
> that well. That's a great site, thanks for posting it.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Z brackets
>
>
> I am posting this just so it goes to the archives as an endorsement.
>
> For anyone just starting their wings, go to Dan's site at
> http://rvproject.com and print off his detailed assembly process for
> aligning your tank Z brackets. The plans call for you to drill a couple
>
> holes in the Z brackets and more or less, enlarge the holes until you
> get
> the skin/skin alignment you want. I have not had to "enlarge",
> "redrill",
> "reposition" anything yet and I was not about to start now. Dan's
> process
> perfectly aligns the Z brackets so you get a fabulous fit between your
> tank
> skins and outboard leading edge. It's takes a little more time, but
> well
> worth the effort.
>
> Thanks Dan,
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: flop tube anti hang-up strips |
> Today I tried to determine if the flop tube anti hang-up strips are really
> necessary as Van's plans very vaguely suggests. I attached the flop tube
> and rotated the tank around, trying to get the tube to get hung up. As
hard
> as I tried, the tube wouldn't get caught anywhere, and it definitely
doesn't
> go anywhere near the trap door.
I wonder if the hose gets more flexible when it ages and would act
different. I put two anti-hang-up thingies in my one tank that has the flop
tube.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Scotch Creek, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot for RV6A |
> I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an
> RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are
> costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive
> and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis
> (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone
> have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could
> be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality?
This time of year it is best to wait until after Oshkosh. Seems to be the
time many new products make their dbut. Navaid was talking about adding
pitch axis control last year. Anyone know what progress they're making?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Scotch Creek, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: stiction of black plastic blocks |
If these black blocks are the ones that the rudder pedals swing from, on the
RV-6 they are made of UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic.
Scott in Vancouver priming fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stiction of black plastic blocks
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 1:47:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> barrypote(at)comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > I have an Rv9a. We are coming down the home stretch.
> > I am not sure if I should leave the black phenol blocks that hold the
> > rudder weldments alone... that they will work themselves looser, or to
> > sand/polish them to be smoother.
>
> I can't believe they would make these of Phenolic. More likely it's
Delrin
> (Acetal). It's pretty tough and I would try to sand them to get a better
fit
> initially.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 525hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Curt,
The tanks on the 8 are removable.
There are a series (four I think) of access covers similar to the 6 covers
along the lower bottom wing skin at the spar on the 8.
These give access to the tank Z bracket attach points.
Jim in Kelowna
> What is the point of having all the screws then?
> I must be missing something. Do you get the Z-bracket bolts in through the
> lightening holes somehow?
>
> Curt
> RV-6 to be flying this summer :-)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Z brackets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
Curt,
Since the spar reinforcement is stepped for most of the length of the spar,
the Z brackets are used as both an attachment point for the tank to the spar
web and as an attachment point for the tank rib to baffle pre drilled holes.
As has been stated, there are 3 inspection panel on the bottom of the 7
wing that allow access to all the Z bracket attach points. Piece of cake.
See: http://rvflying.tripod.com/zbracket.jpg
This is a pic of my right wing with a left Z bracket stuck on just for
illustration. I'll be doing my right wing Z brackets this weekend. The
baffle is laid in on top to illustrate where the rib/baffle/Z bracket
attachment point is.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot for RV6A |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Saturday, June 29, 2002, at 01:13 AM, Norman wrote:
> Navaid was talking about adding
> pitch axis control last year. Anyone know what progress they're making?
It will be available only as a package with the Zoche diesel ;-)
Seriously, they have been talking about pitch for at least five years that
I'm aware of, but don't seem to be making any progress. I talked to them
either last year or the year before and came away _very_ skeptical that
they'll come up with it. The original designer/company principal was
killed in a departure stall in a Mustang II a few years ago.
I think the Navaid was groundbreaking when introduced, and it remains a
great value, but I would look hard at TruTrak.
Just my $.02
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Microair 8.66 com |
Eric........the people you say had problems......is this with the new
model, or the older Microair 760? I am not aware of any of the new ones
having been produced. I have a 760 I have been flying for years, and
love it. I've had no problems, nor have I heard of any problems after
the first few units came out years ago.
I would be interested to know of anyone who has the newer SL or SFL 8.66
mhz unit. As far as I have been able to determine, they are still
"nearing production", and not available. I am on the waiting list for
one with X-Air Australia.
Gary
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair Radios
08:32:40 AM
I now know two builders that have had broken units right out of the box.
One guy is a Giles pilot and is on his third return of the comm unti.
Shipping to Oz is not fun nor cheap, customer service is via third party
and they cannot give you direct answers. They sure are neat units and
nicely priced, but they have some serious growing pains that they need
to
deal with. Take it into account.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot for RV6A |
Norman wrote:
>
> Navaid was talking about adding
> pitch axis control last year.
And the year before, and the year before that, and the years before
that....... ;-)
I suspect they don't want to get anywhere near the liability exposure
that a pitch control autopilot could involve. A runaway wing-leveler
would give you an exciting ride; a runaway altitude hold could pull the
wings off the plane.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Navaid)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Laser line generator |
Hi all,
I just picked up a Strait-Line laser line generator at Home Depot. It's
going to be very handy in lining everything up. The cost was $50. It's
about the size of a tape measure and uses two AA batteries. Love new toys.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 fuse jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Thanks for clueing me in on the Z-bracket attachments. I knew it would be
something obvious.
I must say, these RV-7 and other new kits are so gorgeous with their
anodized spars and blue-plastic clad prepunched perfection that I'm already
hankerin' to build another, even though I'm still on the home stretch to get
my -6 flying.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Z brackets
>
> Curt,
>
> Since the spar reinforcement is stepped for most of the length of the
spar,
> the Z brackets are used as both an attachment point for the tank to the
spar
> web and as an attachment point for the tank rib to baffle pre drilled
holes.
> As has been stated, there are 3 inspection panel on the bottom of the 7
> wing that allow access to all the Z bracket attach points. Piece of cake.
>
> See: http://rvflying.tripod.com/zbracket.jpg
>
> This is a pic of my right wing with a left Z bracket stuck on just for
> illustration. I'll be doing my right wing Z brackets this weekend. The
> baffle is laid in on top to illustrate where the rib/baffle/Z bracket
> attachment point is.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Static Port Rivets |
OK folks - no help in the archives! Is there an equivalent to the
SD-42BS-LF pop rivets called out in the plans for the static ports? Are
these only available if you order the static kit from Van's, or can I
use a "normal" rivet I've got in one of them little paper bags in my kit?
Sorry for the distaction, but I gotta get this done so I can get my
buck'nbuddy to come over and help rivet the turtledeck skins on! (John,
c'mon down!)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A Finish kit here & inventoried- savoring the aroma of
fiberglass!! yecchhh!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Port Rivets |
Not an answer to your question, but the Cleveland static ports are very nice
and are not as noticable, IMHO.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Static Port Rivets
>
> OK folks - no help in the archives! Is there an equivalent to the
> SD-42BS-LF pop rivets called out in the plans for the static ports? Are
> these only available if you order the static kit from Van's, or can I
> use a "normal" rivet I've got in one of them little paper bags in my kit?
>
> Sorry for the distaction, but I gotta get this done so I can get my
> buck'nbuddy to come over and help rivet the turtledeck skins on! (John,
> c'mon down!)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A Finish kit here & inventoried- savoring the aroma of
> fiberglass!! yecchhh!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O360 cylinder cooling |
| From: | alexpeterson(at)usjet.net |
Listers, I have a fuel injected, O360, LASAR sparked 6A. I built the cowl and
baffles per plans vintage 1998 or so. The aft cylinders run about 40 to 50 degrees
F hotter than the front (425 vs 370 on a hot day at 60% power). CHT probes
all calibrate within 8 degrees F. I'm wondering if things would improve if
I opened up the baffles on the underside of the cylinders, where the air actually
exits the cylinder fins (increase the gap). It seems that the gap is quite
small, maybe an inch and a half or so, going on memory. The baffle seal fabric
is sealing well to the cowl, oil cooler steals air from #4, cabin heaters
from #3. Lower cowl is the standard 4" O360 one.
Alex Peterson
RV6A 165 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O360 cylinder cooling |
Did you put the wind blockers in front of the front cylinders? It does even
out the temps.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
> Listers, I have a fuel injected, O360, LASAR sparked 6A. I built the cowl
and baffles per plans vintage 1998 or so. The aft cylinders run about 40 to
50 degrees F hotter than the front (425 vs 370 on a hot day at 60% power).
CHT probes all calibrate within 8 degrees F. I'm wondering if things would
improve if I opened up the baffles on the underside of the cylinders, where
the air actually exits the cylinder fins (increase the gap). It seems that
the gap is quite small, maybe an inch and a half or so, going on memory.
The baffle seal fabric is sealing well to the cowl, oil cooler steals air
from #4, cabin heaters from #3. Lower cowl is the standard 4" O360 one.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A 165 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Com antenna in the wing tip? |
We are having problems with communication from our
RV-4. We can hear, but they can't hear us. Our radios
work OK for ground and tower, but not for approach and
center.
The com antennas are dipole copper strips from
Advanced Electronics and they are mounted in the left
wing tip. http://www.advancedaircraft.com/
We checked the power output and SWR at the antenna,
and the power ranges from 2.5 to 3.9 at the antenna,
and the SWR ranges from 1.4 to 2.2, with most readings
around 1.8. I talked to the helpful folks at Advanced
Electronics, and they said their antennas need to be
mounted vertically (or at least have a
significantvertical component) to work for com, and
ours are not.
So before I go ahead and mount a whip or blade antenna
on the belly, have any of you gurus successfully"
mounted a com antenna in the fiberglass wing tip of
you RV? If so, what kind and what do you consider to
be successfull com? Anyone have any success with the
Archer 1A antenna mounted in a wing tip? Any
installation tips?
Thanks in advance
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Port Rivets |
Mark,
Any rivet will do. All you are doing is creating a port for air pressure to
enter the system. I used a longer pop rivet because I installed the static
holes through the longeron.
Be sure to remember to punch out the ferril.
Tominky RV 8 firewall forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Static Port Rivets
>
> OK folks - no help in the archives! Is there an equivalent to the
> SD-42BS-LF pop rivets called out in the plans for the static ports? Are
> these only available if you order the static kit from Van's, or can I
> use a "normal" rivet I've got in one of them little paper bags in my kit?
>
> Sorry for the distaction, but I gotta get this done so I can get my
> buck'nbuddy to come over and help rivet the turtledeck skins on! (John,
> c'mon down!)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A Finish kit here & inventoried- savoring the aroma of
> fiberglass!! yecchhh!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Com antenna in the wing tip? |
I've had a wingtip COM antenna in my RV-3 for about 10 years. It works all
right. About the same as a belly mounted antenna.
I also have an Archer SA-002 COM antenna mounted on the top of the vertical
stabilizer. Doesn't get much better. Made my own fairing for it, though.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
I have seen it done by putting the ashes in a paper
towel and dropping it out of the window. That way you
don't get the ashes back in the cabin. I've seen a
B17 with grey dust all over the aft fuselage and tail.
It's messy.
To adapt that to the RV: you could make a little bag
out of papertowel and tape the edges to the tail
fairing. Then you would bring a string from the
cockpit and tape it to the papertowel bag such that it
rips the bag when you pull the cord. The slipstream
will take care of the rest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Com antenna in the wing tip? |
Subject: RV-List: Com antenna in the wing tip?
We are having problems with communication from our
RV-4. We can hear, but they can't hear us. Our radios
work OK for ground and tower, but not for approach and
center.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
Hi Jeff
Before you start changing antennas confirm that the problem is not the
michrophone picking up cockpit air noise at higher speeds. Try a radio check
at cruise speed and then one at reduced speed.
George McNutt
6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Mark....that is what I did. And if you want, they will not charge you
the deposit, just put you on the list. Just looks like a long time
coming. And it would be nice to have others "go on before us" and see
if they have teething problems.
The tranponders have been in use for a couple of years everywhere in the
world......except the USA.
Gary
_______
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Microair
See: http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/
Direct quote from their website:
"We are currently accepting advance orders for two new products.
Reserve your Microair 760-8.33 or T2000 Transponder now for only $50
AU$"
Mark
Gary wrote:
>
> Mark........Are you sure the new SFL is actually available? If you
find
> where you can get your hands on one, let me know.....I've been on
the
> waiting list for one for months.
>
> I ordered the Microair transponder from X-Air Australia, and got it
in
> less than a WEEK in Montana.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Some observations. |
Mr. Kempthorne: I just read your statement that most
A&P's are "grossly incompetent" man what a statement.
I mean we (A&P's) go to school continously to learn
our trait and work hard to keep the airplane fleet
flying in a safe manner. All this usually for very
little pay (we do it for the love of aviation.) (at
least I do) hey but if you feel that A&P's are grossly
incompetent, it is America feel free to feel that way
but I would ask that in the future watch the toes you
step on before making such ardous comments that are
not founded on anything but pure egoism on your part.
I totally agree that maybe you may have had a bad
experience in the past but overall A&P's in general
have a good reputation in our chosen career field and
if you dont measure up as an A&P you usually dont make
it very far in our little world.
Good day Mr. Kempthorne
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Texas
--- Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf
> Of kempthornes
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Some observations.
>
> A&P mechanics are not usually builders and many are
> grossly incompetent.
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> OK, generalities are fine, but I have to take a bit
> of offense to such a
> stereotypical comment. The fact that someone is an
> A&P matters little as to
> the outcome of his/her airplane. We've all seen
> heaps of garbage that were
> built by A&P's, but we've also seen some of the best
> work out there done by
> A&P's. Same goes with everyone building an
> airplane. I think the quality
> of the job is determined by several things, mainly
> common sense. I'm
> building and RV6 with another A&P, and our plane is
> not "perfect", but as
> close as we can make it. We are both good
> mechanics, and whether it's
> deburring, priming, wiring, plumbing, etc..., we try
> to do a good job, and
> make the plane safe. I agree there are lot's of
> incompetent people out
> there, but I'd hazard to guess that there are more
> competent A&P's than
> "grossly incompetent" ones. I'll also tell you from
> experience there are
> just as many stupd non-A&P's as certified ones.
> Anyway, I could go on for
> hours, and I won't make any arrogant statements.
>
> For the rest of you, I just moved the plane to the
> hangar for final prepping
> and paint. One last project is to convert one tank
> with a flop tube in it,
> and then I'm ready for final assembly and paint.
> FYI, we started the
> project 14 months ago, and yes, it's an "old, slow
> build" kit.
>
> It's amazing with two "competent" A&P's can do in
> such a short time.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6-N664SB, Minneapolis, prepping for paint.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
Hi Albert;
I am building a -6A and expect the -6A and -9A engine mounts are close to
identical. The problem is that there is little room for any make of oil
cooler on the aft left baffle because of interference with the engine mount.
I have a Positech and my solution was to cut and grind a half circle out of
one of the Positech's aft mounting flanges to fit around the offending
engine mount tube. This corresponds to one of the mounting bolt holes in the
oil cooler so I will end up with five long AN3 bolts and one short AN3 bolt
holding the cooler to the baffle. This is obviously not a Positech approved
mod but the unit looks rugged enough to do OK with this treatment.
Please note I am not flying as yet, so I cannot say how this will work in
the air or how durable this solution will be.
A picture being worth a thousand words, I will send you one by separate mail
as it would not make it on the list.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <albert.gardner(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Positech oil cooler
>
> I read all the posts regarding high temps and ordered a
> SW 10 coil for my O-320 on a 9A. Unfortunatly, I found
> that there was not room to install it on the rear
> baffle. Witgh a little work it could probably be
> installed elsewhere but I'm going to try Vans cooler
> first.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A
> Yuma, AZ
> >
> > I have been using an oil coler from Earl's for over 5 years and 530 plus
> > hours. It developed a pin hole and I decided it was time to get another
> > one. After 6 weeks and no delivery in sight, I decided to install a
> > Positech from Van's in spite of all the negative pub.
> > I flew today with the new Positech, fully expecting to have a cooling
> > problem. Much to my surprise, the oil temperature ran cooler than with
> > the larger Earl's cooler. On a 90 degree day, the oil refused to climb
> > over 160 degrees even at full throttle for a long period.
> > I really believe the Positech will do the job if you get the air through
> > it.
> > I now need to fab a door to block some of the air. By the way, I also
> > have # 6 fittings and hoses on it.
> > John Kitz
> > N721JK
> > Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | GNS430 serial input from Rocky Mtn Encoder |
Anyone used the serial output from a Rocky Mountain Encoder to the serial
input on a Garmin 430 rather than the encoder grey code? If so, I'm curious
what protocol you used.
Russ Werner
HR II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cilinder Cooling |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
These have proven to help.
Air dams on front cylinders (#1 the biggest. #2 smaller)
Upper cowl air smoothers (fiberglass-in the kit with a little help from the
builder)
Baffle outlets (Test data indicates that a good starting point is 7/8" - 1"
at the barrels and
2"- 2 1/4" at the cylinders. Slip heat resistant test plates under the
baffles to close down opening before remanufacture. The baffle kits I have
seen were not engineered in the outlet gap.
"A" model planes may require cowl outlet enhancement such as larger outlet
and/or a "low pressure lip for overall temp reduction.
Exit air smoother augmenter on the firewall bottom edge like the RV-8.
What did I leave out?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N747ES FLYS !!!!1 |
HI GANG
just a little excited right now since my 4.5 year project left the grips of
gravity and made a picture perfect takeoff, circled the pattern for 20
minutes and the a perfect landing. a small oil leak was quickly fixed, and an
aileron was squeezed, the next flight he got it up to 180 mph, and brought it
to plant city from peter o knight. he will put 10 more hours on it to make
sure it is right before he transitions me into it. lee olmernick my test
pilot told me the aileron squeezing did the trick, a rudder tab needs to
center the ball, but i don't have the nose gear pants on or wing fairings. so
i'll wait to see what that does.
wow what do i do now?
just kididing, i still have a little painting and upholstery work to do.
good day in scotty land
scott
tampa
living proof you can have the rv grin without sitting in the plane !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cilinder Cooling |
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the "A" model plane?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Graham" <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cilinder Cooling
>
> These have proven to help.
>
> Air dams on front cylinders (#1 the biggest. #2 smaller)
>
> Upper cowl air smoothers (fiberglass-in the kit with a little help from
the
> builder)
>
> Baffle outlets (Test data indicates that a good starting point is 7/8" -
1"
> at the barrels and
> 2"- 2 1/4" at the cylinders. Slip heat resistant test plates under the
> baffles to close down opening before remanufacture. The baffle kits I
have
> seen were not engineered in the outlet gap.
>
> "A" model planes may require cowl outlet enhancement such as larger outlet
> and/or a "low pressure lip for overall temp reduction.
>
> Exit air smoother augmenter on the firewall bottom edge like the RV-8.
>
> What did I leave out?
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Cilinder Cooling |
The one's with the little wheel in the front of the plane as opposed to
the little wheel on the tail. (sorry I couldn't resist)
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cilinder Cooling
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the "A" model plane?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopy flight test results |
We should thank Bernie for this excellent post and taking the time to do
some testing. This is a important safety item and not only gives a safe
means of closing the canopy but just as important takes away the stress
knowing that it can be closed easily using this procedure.
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrbernie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tip up canopy flight test results
>
>
> Flew my 6A this AM and tested the idea about using flaps to close canopy.
>
> Stabilized at 75 knots, flaps full down. Released canopy and it stayed in
> place.
>
> Raised flaps and the canopy came up about 5 inches open.
>
> Lowered flaps and canopy closed. Easily latched the safety under the roll
> over frame, but had to reach over my left shoulder and pull down on the
> frame to get the latch to lock.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A,O-320,tipup,Sensenich metal,SE Fla
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cilinder Cooling |
Hi John,
The "A" models in the RV series (except the 3) indicate it has the tricycle
gear. The extra hardware up front to mount the nose gear sometimes causes a
lot of interference with the cowling exit air area. This of course reduces
cooling somewhat.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6"A" model - N57ME
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cilinder Cooling
>
>
> Excuse my ignorance, but what is the "A" model plane?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Graham" <beeb(at)teleport.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Cilinder Cooling
>
>
> >
> > These have proven to help.
> >
> > Air dams on front cylinders (#1 the biggest. #2 smaller)
> >
> > Upper cowl air smoothers (fiberglass-in the kit with a little help from
> the
> > builder)
> >
> > Baffle outlets (Test data indicates that a good starting point is 7/8" -
> 1"
> > at the barrels and
> > 2"- 2 1/4" at the cylinders. Slip heat resistant test plates under the
> > baffles to close down opening before remanufacture. The baffle kits I
> have
> > seen were not engineered in the outlet gap.
> >
> > "A" model planes may require cowl outlet enhancement such as larger
outlet
> > and/or a "low pressure lip for overall temp reduction.
> >
> > Exit air smoother augmenter on the firewall bottom edge like the RV-8.
> >
> > What did I leave out?
> >
> > Gary
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)best.com> |
| Subject: | Nut Plates Galore |
After putting is a gazillion (yes, it seems like a gazillion) nut plates
on the floor on my RV-8, I found that a couple don't work. I tried
several screws, so I'm assuming it's the nutplate. Can I use a tap to
re-thread the nutplate, or do I have to (ack) drill them out and replace
them? Thanks for the help.
Steve Gregory
RV-8
Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates Galore |
In a message dated 6/30/02 2:57:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sgregory(at)best.com writes:
After putting is a gazillion (yes, it seems like a gazillion) nut plates
on the floor on my RV-8, I found that a couple don't work. I tried
several screws, so I'm assuming it's the nutplate. Can I use a tap to
re-thread the nutplate, or do I have to (ack) drill them out and replace
them? Thanks for the help.
>>
Hi Steve: I put nutplates in all the floor panels of my -6. I had a
problem like you are describing and found it was due to some of the 2000 (one
legged) plates bending away from the screw point if alignment wasn't exactly
right. I replaced the offenders with MK 2000 (stubby one legged) and haven't
had anymore problems. Hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Com antenna in the wing tip? |
Thanks Jim.
Can you tell me what type of antenna you have in the
wing tip?
Ours works within about 10-15 miles of the tower, but
gets rather unrealiable after that. How well does
yours work?
Jeff Bertsch
noms1redq(at)yahoo.com
--- LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
> LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
>
> I've had a wingtip COM antenna in my RV-3 for about
> 10 years. It works all
> right. About the same as a belly mounted antenna.
>
> I also have an Archer SA-002 COM antenna mounted on
> the top of the vertical
> stabilizer. Doesn't get much better. Made my own
> fairing for it, though.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV sn 50
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates Galore |
I tapped all nutplates when I installed them. Also, the brass #8 screws
that Van's provide are not that strong. You might find that a steel screw
will screw into some of the ones that the brass one's won't.
Paul Besing
June 24, 2002 - June 30, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-na