RV-Archive.digest.vol-nb
June 30, 2002 - July 09, 2002
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Steve Gregory" <sgregory(at)best.com> |
| Subject: | Nut Plates Galore |
>
> After putting is a gazillion (yes, it seems like a gazillion) nut plates
> on the floor on my RV-8, I found that a couple don't work. I tried
> several screws, so I'm assuming it's the nutplate. Can I use a tap to
> re-thread the nutplate, or do I have to (ack) drill them out and replace
> them? Thanks for the help.
>
> Steve Gregory
> RV-8
> Livermore, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | transition training |
Does anyone out there know someone in the Louisville, KY or Southern
Indiana area who might provide transition training in an RV-8? I will
be current in a taildragger, but need to do 20 or so landings for
insurance before climbing into my airplane.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
Rv-8 canopy almost done, attaching cowling tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Com antenna in the wing tip? |
Jeff,
The comm antennas work best if they are vertically mounted, and the VOR
horizontally.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Newport,OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Com antenna in the wing tip?
>
> We are having problems with communication from our
> RV-4. We can hear, but they can't hear us. Our radios
> work OK for ground and tower, but not for approach and
> center.
>
> The com antennas are dipole copper strips from
> Advanced Electronics and they are mounted in the left
> wing tip. http://www.advancedaircraft.com/
>
> We checked the power output and SWR at the antenna,
> and the power ranges from 2.5 to 3.9 at the antenna,
> and the SWR ranges from 1.4 to 2.2, with most readings
> around 1.8. I talked to the helpful folks at Advanced
> Electronics, and they said their antennas need to be
> mounted vertically (or at least have a
> significantvertical component) to work for com, and
> ours are not.
>
> So before I go ahead and mount a whip or blade antenna
> on the belly, have any of you gurus successfully"
> mounted a com antenna in the fiberglass wing tip of
> you RV? If so, what kind and what do you consider to
> be successfull com? Anyone have any success with the
> Archer 1A antenna mounted in a wing tip? Any
> installation tips?
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Nut Plates Galore |
Just having gone through this, I want to point out, 2 of my nut plates
were not ever threaded at the factory. Luckily I found these before
mounting them.
Marty in Brentwood TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nut Plates Galore
I tapped all nutplates when I installed them. Also, the brass #8 screws
that Van's provide are not that strong. You might find that a steel
screw will screw into some of the ones that the brass one's won't.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gregory" <sgregory(at)best.com>
Subject: RV-List: Nut Plates Galore
>
> After putting is a gazillion (yes, it seems like a gazillion) nut
> plates on the floor on my RV-8, I found that a couple don't work. I
> tried several screws, so I'm assuming it's the nutplate. Can I use a
> tap to re-thread the nutplate, or do I have to (ack) drill them out
> and replace them? Thanks for the help.
>
> Steve Gregory
> RV-8
> Livermore, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit? |
I just fitted my cowling for a 6a this weekend also.
And, like Jim's plane I too will have to add glass to
close up those 2 scoops on each corner. I noticed that
I have to pull the sides away from the hinge pins in
order to drop the lower cowl down. Will glassing the
corners restrict the flexablility that I need to pull
the sides out and away from the hinge?
Dan
--- Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I had the same problem. See
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/cowlp.htm to
> see how I fixed mine.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
>
>
>
> >
> > Hello Listers,
> >
> > I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions
> for searching the RV-list
> > archives. Any how to's would help also.
> >
> > Kit type:
> > RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S
> >
> > Problem:
> > The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match
> the contour of the
> > fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower
> corners is smaller and
> > protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl
> itself. the result is two
> > very nice intake scoops that are not in the
> design. It's obvious to me
> that
> > some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl
> conform to the fuselage is
> > called for.
> >
> > I don't remember any emails that refer to this
> cowl fit anomaly; Although
> I
> > can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve
> them with some measure of
> > success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I
> find during the egg hiding
> > that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)!
> >
> > I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can
> think of several approaches
> > to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if
> and how others solved
> the
> > puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step
> procedure that will get the
> job
> > done with a minimum of hassle.
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit? |
I didn't notice anything there. There is still a long arm that you can flex
to get the hinge eyes to pop out of the side as you mentioned.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
>
> I just fitted my cowling for a 6a this weekend also.
> And, like Jim's plane I too will have to add glass to
> close up those 2 scoops on each corner. I noticed that
> I have to pull the sides away from the hinge pins in
> order to drop the lower cowl down. Will glassing the
> corners restrict the flexablility that I need to pull
> the sides out and away from the hinge?
> Dan
>
>
> --- Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had the same problem. See
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/cowlp.htm to
> > see how I fixed mine.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hello Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions
> > for searching the RV-list
> > > archives. Any how to's would help also.
> > >
> > > Kit type:
> > > RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S
> > >
> > > Problem:
> > > The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match
> > the contour of the
> > > fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower
> > corners is smaller and
> > > protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl
> > itself. the result is two
> > > very nice intake scoops that are not in the
> > design. It's obvious to me
> > that
> > > some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl
> > conform to the fuselage is
> > > called for.
> > >
> > > I don't remember any emails that refer to this
> > cowl fit anomaly; Although
> > I
> > > can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve
> > them with some measure of
> > > success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I
> > find during the egg hiding
> > > that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)!
> > >
> > > I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can
> > think of several approaches
> > > to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if
> > and how others solved
> > the
> > > puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step
> > procedure that will get the
> > job
> > > done with a minimum of hassle.
> > >
> > > Jim in Kelowna
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Superior SL-360 buildup pics |
Listers,
I was perusing the Trade A Plane ads and saw a post for an RV-6A with a
website URL. The site has a very nice set of pics of the Superior SL-360
engine buildup. I've never seen this engine from this perspective. Looks
like a mighty nice way to go to get a "Lycoming" that...isn't!
Go to: http://www.attawayair.com/new_page_3.htm
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
293 hrs.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Com antenna in the wing tip? |
Hi Jeff and All,
I have a Sportcraft COM antenna in the wingtip of my RV-3. It really
shouldn't work very well, because it doesn't have very much vertical height.
And the vertical height is the key to making the COM work well. (This also
applies to belly mounted BENT antenna's) :-)
I was 38 NM away from my home airport, and had it in sight. However, I
couldn't receive ATIS - UNTIL I rolled the antenna tip up by 60 degrees.
ATIS came in loud and clear. But it's not the most comfortable way to fly.
:-)
On another flight, I was about 10 NM from my home airport. I had the airport
off my left wing (the COM antenna is in my right wingtip) and I dropped down
below a ridge line (2,000' agl) so the airport was out of sight. The tower
responded to my first transmission. I didn't expect them to hear my first
transmission; let alone my receiving their response loud and clear.
Who can figure?
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Cooling |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Graham" <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cilinder Cooling
>
> These have proven to help.
>
> Air dams on front cylinders (#1 the biggest. #2 smaller)
>
> Upper cowl air smoothers (fiberglass-in the kit with a little help from
the
> builder)
>
> Baffle outlets (Test data indicates that a good starting point is 7/8" -
1"
> at the barrels and
> 2"- 2 1/4" at the cylinders. Slip heat resistant test plates under the
> baffles to close down opening before remanufacture. The baffle kits I
have
> seen were not engineered in the outlet gap.
>
> "A" model planes may require cowl outlet enhancement such as larger outlet
> and/or a "low pressure lip for overall temp reduction.
>
> Exit air smoother augmenter on the firewall bottom edge like the RV-8.
>
> What did I leave out?
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
Hi Jim,
The description you give sounds adequate. Cutting the half circle out of the
aft mount flange for engine mount clearance is something I have seen others
do. It sounds like the middle inner(nearest the mount) long bolt is the one
you have replaced with the short bolt. This would be the preferred one if
there was a choice.
In my case I mounted my cooler (a Van's supplied SW Niagara copy) on a one
inch outboard offset standoff. I mounted it just high enough on the rear #3
baffle to need a half circle trimmed out of the inboard flangewithout
interfering with the center bolt. The offset allows the full face of the oil
cooler to see cool air without picking up any heated air off of the cooling
fins of #3 cylinder.
I guess I will see if my theory is good in the coming year, I hope!
Jim in Kelowna - 5 years and counting
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
> Hi Albert;
>
> I am building a -6A and expect the -6A and -9A engine mounts are close to
> identical. The problem is that there is little room for any make of oil
> cooler on the aft left baffle because of interference with the engine
mount.
>
> I have a Positech and my solution was to cut and grind a half circle out
of
> one of the Positech's aft mounting flanges to fit around the offending
> engine mount tube. This corresponds to one of the mounting bolt holes in
the
> oil cooler so I will end up with five long AN3 bolts and one short AN3
bolt
> holding the cooler to the baffle. This is obviously not a Positech
approved
> mod but the unit looks rugged enough to do OK with this treatment.
>
> Jim Oke
> Winnipeg, MB
> RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cliff" <exodus(at)gds.co.za> |
| Subject: | RV 7 tilt-up versus slide canopy |
I am at great pains at deciding which to use. Any bad experiences
involving either one?
Regards
Cliff Lotter
South Africa
tel/fax 27-18-4621724
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 tilt-up versus slide canopy |
Hi Cliff,
There is a real well written, non-biased article about the tip-up vs.
slider by Martin Sutter. IT is located here:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/tipupvsslider.htm
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (Slider)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "cliff" <exodus(at)gds.co.za>
Subject: RV-List: RV 7 tilt-up versus slide canopy
>
> I am at great pains at deciding which to use. Any bad experiences
> involving either one?
> Regards
> Cliff Lotter
> South Africa
> tel/fax 27-18-4621724
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Web Site Update... |
Hi all...
I posted some new stuff to my web site this morning... I installed my old
Magellan GPS 315 in the back seat, installed a rear view mirror, and
installed a chart board in the cockpit...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish11.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ 34hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVAWALKER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aileron alignment QB wings |
Anyone experienced a problem with the vertical alignment of the aileron? Mine
seem to be 1/8 to 3/16 high checking with the airfoil template. Also the
W-818 push rod is about 27 13/16 rather than 27 5/8. Van, s informs me that
undrilled aileron hinges are available. Seems like perhaps it is a typical
problem. Any comments will be appreciated.
Dale Walker-RV7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Rear spar bolt hole - major problem |
Late reply, but I felt compelled to throw my support behind Keith's
comments.
Do whatever you have to do to make it as Van designed it. Period.
Bryan Jones, PE
-8 ~420 hrs
Pearland, Texas
>From: "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Rear spar bolt hole - major problem
>Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:32:02 -0600
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
been at the apt the last few days so have been off list.
First, Con-grin-ulations Scott.
Second, report on the EZtrim. I installed it with the ray allen servos and
it seems to work for the first few oscillations then heads downwards slowly.
BUT, I haven't had the time or flexiblitiy to get under the panel and hook
the pressure line into the static source so I stopped testing/adjusting
until this is done. I'm just starting its first annual so more later.
Third, this is a weird one. I have been occasionally getting a small amount
of air in the brake line for the right brake system between the passenger MC
and the Pilot MC. I bleed it out and after a while it reappears. And there
are no leaks in the system.
So I decided it might have something to do with being upside down as I have
been practicing aileron rolls lately. I went up and did a bunch to the
right, no bubble, then did a bunch to the left and presto bubbles appeared
between the master cylinders on the right brake system only??? Any
thoughts???
thx
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Com antenna in the wing tip COMM problems |
I think your SWR is a little hi. The reflected energy is bouncing "to &
fro" within the confines of the feeder cable/coax to the antenna and
disapating its energy via heat-not transmitted RF energy. Don't worry
about the heat thing, there is no danger or harm of a fire or anything.
A SWr of 1-1 is mathmetacally perfect but non atainable . I've tuned
transmitters with a 1.1 to 1 or 1.2 to 1 that worked fine. I think 1.8
to 1 is a little hi.
ALso agree with a poster on the noise issue. The RV-4 can be noisy. His
suggestion will help you out. The SWR issue is limiting your effective
distance. You could have a combo problem here also (cabin noise AND hi
SWR). Also what is the line voltage to the transmitter ? Low voltage
can reduce your effective distance also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 06/30/02 |
Sometimes ATC has remote antennas to handle local geography geometeries
like you mentioned. With more then one antenna, reception and
communications can differ if your thinking the only antenna is on the
roof of the tower facility. Out west, ATC has remote comm antennas on
multiple VOR stations to help in the VHF reception......
..............................
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Com antenna in the wing tip?
Hi Jeff and All,
I have a Sportcraft COM antenna in the wingtip of my RV-3. It really
shouldn't work very well, because it doesn't have very much vertical
height.
And the vertical height is the key to making the COM work well. (This
also
applies to belly mounted BENT antenna's) :-)
I was 38 NM away from my home airport, and had it in sight. However, I
couldn't receive ATIS - UNTIL I rolled the antenna tip up by 60
degrees.
ATIS came in loud and clear. But it's not the most comfortable way to
fly.
:-)
On another flight, I was about 10 NM from my home airport. I had the
airport
off my left wing (the COM antenna is in my right wingtip) and I dropped
down
below a ridge line (2,000' agl) so the airport was out of sight. The
tower
responded to my first transmission. I didn't expect them to hear my
first
transmission; let alone my receiving their response loud and clear.
Who can figure?
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Things that go BANG in the flight |
"rocket-list(at)matronics.com"
All--
Our RVs have several little tricks that can make things interesting,
from time to time.
The other day I was flying over my practice area (Florida cattle
pasture/swamp, depending on the time of the year) and was just starting
to point the nose down from the top of a loop and pick up speed when
there was a loud bang that reverberated thru ought the cockpit, followed
by several others in rapid succession. The sound was very hard to
localize, but it was from my plane and it appeared the airframe had
decided to start coming apart. I rolled 180 deg. and turned the loop
into a sort-of-Cuban-8 and pulled power back and kept the nose up for
altitude (3,000' agl). I knew there was a nice access road below me
since I used it as a guide for setting my N-S/E-W lines, but I was
starting to think about parachute time. However, other than the damned
banging the plane seemed to be handling fine--motor sounded good--gauges
looked good, no unusual vibration, all control surfaces responded and
easy to maintain altitude and heading. So, I slowed to 85 KIAS(close to
best glide speed and, also, max L/D so there was less stress on the
airframe) and preceded back to KVNC uneventfully except for that
banging. All the time keeping an "out" in sight in case the "problem"
got worse. However, an old story came back to me and I started laughing
on the way back about what my problem might be.
After 4 yrs of Florida weather, the contact cement holding the black
rubber trim strip between the wing root fairing and the fuselage had
dried and become brittle and a 2 1/2 ft. section of the trim strip on
top of the left wing had become loose and was flapping against the
fuselage and the top of the wing. But, man, was that a scary sound!
Initially, I was sure that my airplane was coming apart! At least it
wasn't from seatbelts hanging outside the door.
Boyd
RV-Super 6/>400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 tilt-up versus slide canopy |
> I am at great pains at deciding which to use. Any bad experiences
> involving either one?
The tip up gives the impression of "sitting on top of the world" when
flying. No bars to obstruct ones view out the bubble. When I see photos
taken in close formation, I notice the slider guys are most often leaning or
bending their heads funny to see around the roll bar. Those are the same
pilots that are very comphy and cool when they taxi around on hot days.
Something about more elbow room.....
Norman Hunger
RV6A Tip Up
Scotch Creek BC
Way to go Scott!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nut Plates Galore |
You might double check the couple that don't work and make sure they are
the right size nut plates. Nut plates for #8 screws are close to the
same size nutplate for an AN-3-x bolt and the difference doesn't just
jump out at you. I managed to install two #8 screw nutplates along with
the nutplates for several AN-3 bolts in my FAB. I tried tapping them
out, but finally gave up and drilled out the #8 plates and put in the
right sized ones.
Charlie
RV-6A, N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
----------------------------------
From: Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)best.com>
Subject: RV-List: Nut Plates Galore
After putting is a gazillion (yes, it seems like a gazillion) nut plates
on the floor on my RV-8, I found that a couple don't work. I tried
several screws, so I'm assuming it's the nutplate. Can I use a tap to
re-thread the nutplate, or do I have to (ack) drill them out and replace
them? Thanks for the help.
Steve Gregory
RV-8
Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Has anyone split a Garmin 295 GPS at the seam and mounted it
semi-permanently in the panel? Any problems with the viewing angle or
otherwise? Pictures? General advice?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I split a Garmin Pilot III and also angled it...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-525x.jpg
I have since replaced that unit with a 295 and this time did not split it,
but did angle it...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Dscn0346x.jpg
Both installations worked very well.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 190 hrs.
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 295
>
> Has anyone split a Garmin 295 GPS at the seam and mounted it
> semi-permanently in the panel? Any problems with the viewing angle or
> otherwise? Pictures? General advice?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Van's news letter, the RVator, has a short blurb regarding how well
PropGuard worked for the writer...there is precious little in the archives,
and I wondered if anyone "out there" has tried this product.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | sealing rivet holes in canopy |
As I put in the rivets and screws through the canopy and into the frame,
should/can I put a sealant in the holes to prevent water from dripping in?
WHat is safe to use that won't damage the canopy?
Thanks,
Kim Nicholas
RV9A finish kit - the end in sight???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mcmahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sealing rivet holes in canopy |
Kim
I use Pro Seal ...It is also used in the Pitts for the same purpose!!!
John McMahon
Wiring
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>As I put in the rivets and screws through the canopy and into the frame,
>should/can I put a sealant in the holes to prevent water from dripping in?
>WHat is safe to use that won't damage the canopy?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A finish kit - the end in sight???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N44PH (long) |
Wow, what a rush, for the second time a first flight in an RV that I built myself,
just an incredible experience I don't care how often you do it. For me it
is bigger than my T-38 solo ride some 36 years ago, even this second time.
Took off from Rwy 11R at Vero Beach a little after 7 p.m. this evening--it finally
stopped raining here for the first time in about 2 weeks, but it was a great
evening with high clouds and no wind. Thanks to Ernie Raudenbush for flying
chase in his gorgeous Lancair ES. I was looking at CHT's around 400 degrees
with the high being cylinder #3 that got up to about 445. Highest oil temp was
about 195 F in the climb and settled back to 183 at 75% power at 7,500 feet.
I got the humongous Stewart Warner 8432R oil cooler so I was kind of relieved
that I got the desired effect after going through all the effort to mount this
monster behind cylinder #4 on the rear baffle. Thanks to Randall Henderson
for some good ideas on how to support this area, however I felt I needed to
beef it up even more than Randall did. This is the oil cooler used on the IO-540's.
Thanks to Eustace Bowhay and Bart LaLonde for a great engine! CHT's in
cruise ranged from about 300 to 348 with #3 cylinder again being the highest.
I checked ground speed on reciprocal headings: 188 mph and 207 mph, this was at
75% power at 7,500 feet. I wanted to get a leg up on the break-in process so
kept it at 75% power for most of the flight. I think we were up about 45 minutes
total. Autopilot worked great (S-Tec 30), I highly recommend it. Too many
toys to play with on the first flight, but most
everything seemed to work just fine. Airplane is set up IFR with the UPS stack
including the MX-20 and GX-60 GPS, SL30 Nav/Com and SL-70 transponder.
By the way, I have Jeff Rose's dual electronic ignition which worked perfectly--dual
batteries a la Bob Nuckolls, I could go on all night but I better cut this
short.
Started a long power-on descent ending up over the airport about 4,000 feet and
just did a wide 360 on to final and kept it up good and high, put
the flaps down to 20 on final and made a normal 3-point landing. Things
that need to be fixed: left wing a little heavy, idle set a little too low (engine
almost quit on roll out).
Thanks to all the folks on this list for the past 3 years that kept this
interesting, especially Eric Henson for the humor, Gary VanRemortel for the Yeller
Pages, Matt for the List, Piedmont Builders Group, and all the
others for their valuable input. Oh yeah, don't want to forget Austin's
great stories and a special thanks to Jerry Springer for staying with the list
even though he built his RV-6 about 50 years ago!
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs TT
0-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 0.7 hrs TT
0-360, Hartzell C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Things that go BANG in the flight/Safety |
Subject: RV-List: Things that go BANG in the flight
>
> All--
>
> Our RVs have several little tricks that can make things interesting,
> from time to time.
>
> The other day I was flying over my practice area (Florida cattle
> pasture/swamp, depending on the time of the year) and was just starting
> to point the nose down from the top of a loop and pick up speed when
> there was a loud bang ..............
Boyd & List
A salute and hardy "Here Here" for sharing this story! Ditto to Ed Anderson
and Van's for publishing Ed's "war story" in the 3rd issue of the 2002
RVator. These are operational experiences from which we can all learn a
great deal.
In the USAF, as well as other military and commercial flight operations, the
pilots impose plenty of good natured competition and pressure on each other
trying to answer Iceman's question to Maverick in the movie Top Gun, "Have
you figured out who is the best yet?" Another etched in stone tradition
says that if you really scare yourself or successfully recover from a
difficult situation, you are duty bound to relate your experience to the
entire group assembled at the regular Safety Meeting. In return for this
challenge to your pride, your peers are duty bound to offer only a toast of
thanks without any of the usual ribbing.
We are rapidly becoming part of a 3000-airplane fleet with the individual
airplanes accumulating what I would guess are more flight hours per airframe
than other homebuilts. This operational experience base, if shared, can
help all of us to improve our skills and build a reputation for not only
flying the most successful experimental sport aircraft ever, but also being
part of the group that sets a new standard for safety and proficiency in
sport aviation.
I think we are well on are way to achieving that admirable goal. The
virtual Safety Meeting is open for discussion, keep the stories coming!
Dick Sipp
N250DS RV-4
Eagle Neck Airpark Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Com antenna in the wing tip COMM problems |
Indeed the cockpit is extremely noisy. Even the best
noise cancelling mic has problems under the tight
canopy. I think it is a combination of the high noise
level and the tightly enclosed space, because I have
been in noisier planes that were easer to communicate
in.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
--- P M Condon wrote:
>
>
> I think your SWR is a little hi. The reflected
> energy is bouncing "to &
> fro" within the confines of the feeder cable/coax to
> the antenna and
> disapating its energy via heat-not transmitted RF
> energy. Don't worry
> about the heat thing, there is no danger or harm of
> a fire or anything.
> A SWr of 1-1 is mathmetacally perfect but non
> atainable . I've tuned
> transmitters with a 1.1 to 1 or 1.2 to 1 that
> worked fine. I think 1.8
> to 1 is a little hi.
>
> ALso agree with a poster on the noise issue. The
> RV-4 can be noisy. His
> suggestion will help you out. The SWR issue is
> limiting your effective
> distance. You could have a combo problem here also
> (cabin noise AND hi
> SWR). Also what is the line voltage to the
> transmitter ? Low voltage
> can reduce your effective distance also.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Things that go BANG in the flight/Safety |
>I think we are well on are way to achieving that admirable goal. The
>virtual Safety Meeting is open for discussion, keep the stories coming!
OK. As I was reading Boyd's post, I thought I knew what had happened as
it had happened to me once.
I was out doing loops in the Cub one afternoon, and, as I came over the
top and starting down the back side, I heard a loud *BANG*. No idea at
the time. I pulled out v e r y gently and actually looked back at the
tail and was somewhat surprised to see it still attached.
Got home, looked at things and found nothing.
Played with it in my mind for a while and finally figured it out.
Went out next day and did another loop and, as I came over the top,
slammed the throttle closed, like one would if you suddenly were looking
straight down at Ma Earth and didn't want to overspeed on the way down.
The backfire from the engine was the same as the day before: BANG.
Changed my thought process during a loop. Stupid manner of throttle
control anyway.
Fly and learn.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sealing rivet holes in canopy |
--- Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> As I put in the rivets and screws through the canopy and into the
> frame,
> should/can I put a sealant in the holes to prevent water from
> dripping in?
> WHat is safe to use that won't damage the canopy?
Kim,
Take a look at the following:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice/finish.html
This is the finishing kit section of "The Justice Files", accessible
through Kevin Horton's web site.
In it, Frank suggests a way to seal the canopy that will address your
question - and for more than just the rivet holes - there's the entire
length of skirts to be concerned about!
He has you run a bead of sealant along the skirts (side and rear) and
then cleco them in place. After the sealant sets up, rivet it closed.
Works great, and the rivets are protected behind a solid seal between
the whole length of the skirts and plexi.
I used a product suggested on the list called Lexel - plexiglass-safe,
clear and easy to use.
Have fun!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
FWF
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Labeling |
Everyone,
I own a C140 and found this neat plate to label the fuel selector in their
newsletter. I called the guy that makes them and asked him to make one for
my RV6. It is a great looking plate. He is selling them for $15. Please
see the picture I posted on the picture share. His address is:
James L. Alago
895 Garfield Ave
Lansdale, PA 19446-5570
(610)584-6193
He doesn't have email, but feel free to email me, and I will try to help.
Patty Gillies
RV-6, SC
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N44PH (long) |
In a message dated 7/1/2002 9:56:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pat_hatch(at)msn.com writes:
> Thanks to all the folks on this list for the past 3 years that kept this
> interesting, especially Eric Henson for the humor, Gary VanRemortel for t> he
Yeller Pages, Matt for the List, Piedmont Builders Group, and all the
> others for their valuable input. Oh yeah, don't want to forget Austin's
> great stories and a special thanks to Jerry Springer for staying with the> list
even though he built his RV-6 about 50 years ago!
Glad to be of service and thanks for the plug. Helping the RV community to
make better and safer airplanes is what it's all about.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Next Generation Technology |
They following item was published in the Aero-news-net today (July 2, 2002).
It includes a couple of links for further reading on the topic.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 20% Complete
Hartzell: Next-Gen Prop Technology
Comprehensive New Blade Mfg Process May Represent Industry's First
Major Tech Leap Since The 80s
Hartzell Propeller has just unveiled a generational leap in
manufacturing with its new propeller blade manufacturing process. The new
process
represents a $3 million investment in technology and demonstrates the
commitment of
Hartzell to driving improvements in all aspects of its propeller business.
Overall, the new process greatly improves the accuracy of manufacturing,
reducing blade-to-blade weight and aerodynamic variability. The result
for
pilots and passengers is smoother running propellers. "Much has been made of
blueprinted engines; this advancement in propeller blade manufacturing is
its equivalent
-- the 'blueprinted' propeller, which will cover our entire product line and
be
available to all of our customers at no additional cost." said Joe Brown,
Co-President
responsible for the manufacturing operations at Hartzell.
The new process also makes dramatic reductions in setup and changeover
times, requires no special tooling and directly utilizes design engineering
generated CAD 3-D solid models ... all of which makes the incorporation of
new
designs, including Hartzell's new technology "blended airfoil" scimitar
blade designs
more practical. Some of the results of these improvements have been seen in
Hartzell's most-recent propeller designs for Cirrus, Lancair, Adam Aircraft,
and Bruce
Bohannon's record breaking Flyin' Tiger, as well as for its own Top PropTM
program.
One example of the improved accuracy is in the machining of propeller blade
shanks. This particular process establishes all the other dimensions of the
blade,
and is now controlled to .0001" (2.5 microns). The airfoil is then produced
from
the computer-generated solid model, cut in a single pass using a 7-axis
mill.
This process employs tool and part probing to ensure accuracy while
operating at
feed rates up to 900 IPM (inches per minute).
In addition to the machining equipment, a new Non-Destructive Test (NDT)
cell provides more reliable blade testing. The environmentally friendly
semi-automated "Dynamic Cloud" fluorescent penetrant inspection process
eliminates
procedure and operator variability to produce accurate results and ensure
blades are
free from even the most miniscule surface flaws.
FMI: www.hartzellprop.com
For the WHOLE story, go to
http://www.aero-news.net/news/sport.cfm?ContentBlockID=4506
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
Jim or others:
Has anyone had experience mounting the Positech cooler in front of the
engine (pilot side) per the alternate location in the RV-9A drawing. Since
I have an O-235 N2C with a planned wood prop, I am always interested in
putting stuff more forward for W&B concerns. What are the implications -
effectiveness of the cooler, ineffectiveness of engine cooling, hose lengths
and routing, etc. Thanks for any help.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 20% Complete
> The description you give sounds adequate. Cutting the half circle out of
the
> aft mount flange for engine mount clearance is something I have seen
others
> do. It sounds like the middle inner(nearest the mount) long bolt is the
one
> you have replaced with the short bolt. This would be the preferred one if
> there was a choice.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi:
Well I have postponed the electrical part as long as I could, but I must
get with it. This is something I dreaded all the time...Electrical is not
one
of my abilities.
My first question, where can i buy the special crimper for the very little
wires,
like the ones on the electric trim. I tired soldering, forget it, cannot do
it, so
can I just crimper these little rascals? I went to radio shack, the did not
know
what I was talking about...
This is the one for now, and thanks in advance for your replies...
Bert
rv6a
Inst. panel...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sealing rivet holes in canopy |
What do y'all think about using that Lexel along the fwd canopy frame bow --
with *NO* rivets? Normal rivets/proseal along the sides. (I'm refering to the
RV-8 canopy). I don't see how this area would be under great stress, unless
the canopy is wide open in flight. Crazy idea?
-Larry
--- Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> --- Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > As I put in the rivets and screws through the canopy and into the
> > frame,
> > should/can I put a sealant in the holes to prevent water from
> > dripping in?
> > WHat is safe to use that won't damage the canopy?
>
> Kim,
>
> Take a look at the following:
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice/finish.html
>
> This is the finishing kit section of "The Justice Files", accessible
> through Kevin Horton's web site.
> In it, Frank suggests a way to seal the canopy that will address your
> question - and for more than just the rivet holes - there's the entire
> length of skirts to be concerned about!
>
> He has you run a bead of sealant along the skirts (side and rear) and
> then cleco them in place. After the sealant sets up, rivet it closed.
> Works great, and the rivets are protected behind a solid seal between
> the whole length of the skirts and plexi.
>
> I used a product suggested on the list called Lexel - plexiglass-safe,
> clear and easy to use.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> FWF
>
>
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring panel |
Have you bought Bob Knuckolls (sp?) book 'The Aeroelectric Connection'? It
is a must in my opinion. I learned a lot and I do electrical stuff for a
living. He also has a website (http://www.aeroelectric.com) and there is
the mailing list. aeroelectric(at)matronics.com
Soldering should not be that hard. If you are finding it difficult then you
probably don't have the right equipment. Go get a 25W soldering iron and
some scrap wire and some really small (24AWG) rosin core solder and
practice. You'll find that it is not that difficult to master. The key is
making sure that everything is clean and remember that solder does not stick
to anything that is not hot.
Oh and STAY OUT OF RADIO SHACK. There is very little in that store that I
would trust in my airplane. It is a great place to get stuff for hobby or
educational type projects but everything they have there is sub-par. You
will want to stay with MIL spec. connectors, crimping tools etc. and you
will not find these at RS. The sales droids there will not likely ever know
what you are talking about anyway.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bertrv6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: wiring panel
>
> Hi:
>
> Well I have postponed the electrical part as long as I could, but I must
> get with it. This is something I dreaded all the time...Electrical is
not
> one
> of my abilities.
>
> My first question, where can i buy the special crimper for the very little
> wires,
> like the ones on the electric trim. I tired soldering, forget it, cannot
do
> it, so
> can I just crimper these little rascals? I went to radio shack, the did
not
> know
> what I was talking about...
>
> This is the one for now, and thanks in advance for your replies...
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Inst. panel...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rodney.woodard" <rodney.woodard(at)attbi.com> |
Hello Everybody,
I decided to take the plunge and re-subscribe to an rv-list. I searched back
through the archives and found that I've been doing this on and off for
about 6 years. Man, how time flys.
In any case, I've made some small progress on my RV-3 kit in the last year
or so. I'm about to finish up the tail kit. I've been in no hurry because I
don't really have the funds set aside for the wing kit. In fact, I probably
won't order the wing kit until sometime next year.
I've recently submitted a link to my website to Van's for inclusion on their
web links listing. I've had amazing response. I would have never guessed
that so many people look at that site so often.
I'm only going to subscribe to the RV-3 list due to the volume of e-mails
received by subscribing to the main list. I'm no expert, but I'd be willing
to answer questions based on my limited experience!
Best regards to all,
Rod Woodard
www.woodardfamily.com/RV3Project.htm
RV-3 #11339 in progress
RV-3 N99RV sold Jan 2000
Northern Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal wait time. |
I Pro-Sealed my stiffeners in a couple of days ago. I didn't mix up quite
enough, so I didn't do the gas cap. I did the cap today. How long should I
wait until I put it in the cradle and buck all the ribs?
Wanta get these things done.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wiring panel |
Bert,
I understand - I was not too enthusiastic about the wiring either but in the
end it was not so bad. A couple of hints to avoid going nuts.
1. Take it one insturment, one wire at a time. (It got overwhelming when I
thought about the "big" picture).
2. Put a label on EACH end of VERY wire - use your computer (Excell) to
print little strips of 7 pt. font, roll it into tiny rolls and fit it on the
wire and put clear heat shrink. I followed the example of others and labeled
example: pitot switch<>pitot 10A fuse. That way you know where each wire is
going. It takes alot of time, but you will thank me with massive
quantities of beer and chips after all the wires are stretched out.
3. Be sure to place everything on the sub panel in a location that you can
reach when the plane is all done and you are on your back, under the panel,
swearing like a sailor. I have moved a couple of things already in
anticipation of spending time on my back.
4. Allow LOTS of time. It took me longer than I expected - but then,
EVERYTHING takes me longer than expected....
Keep on chuggin'...
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - finishing & wiring.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal wait time. |
Press on. I waited overnight between proseal sessions and that was fine.
Russ
HRII
>
>
> I Pro-Sealed my stiffeners in a couple of days ago. I didn't mix up quite
> enough, so I didn't do the gas cap. I did the cap today. How long should
I
> wait until I put it in the cradle and buck all the ribs?
>
> Wanta get these things done.
>
> Dana Overall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal wait time. |
24 HOURS if you mixed the batch right
Glenn
--- Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
>
> I Pro-Sealed my stiffeners in a couple of days ago.
> I didn't mix up quite
> enough, so I didn't do the gas cap. I did the cap
> today. How long should I
> wait until I put it in the cradle and buck all the
> ribs?
>
> Wanta get these things done.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print
> your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal wait time. |
Go for it. Proseal has a fairly short working time in any case but once
the stiffeners were riveted in you would not be able to disturb the
joints. Using solvent during preparation and clean up should not cause
a problem either. I worried about cleaning the flush heads (thought I
might seep solvent into the rivet joint) but the proseal prevents it and
the solvent evaporates quickly. I waited a week before balloon testing
(probably overkill - overnight would be fine) and only had one pin-hole
- a too-deep flute in an end-rib with not enough proseal.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Pro-Seal wait time.
I Pro-Sealed my stiffeners in a couple of days ago. I didn't mix up
quite
enough, so I didn't do the gas cap. I did the cap today. How long
should I
wait until I put it in the cradle and buck all the ribs?
Wanta get these things done.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Claude Heiniger" <cheiniger(at)dplanet.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC Autopiilot installation - Altitude Hold not working |
Dear listers,
I really appreciated the input concerning the S-TEC altitude hold problem I
had. The list is a great source of corporate wisdoms. Turned out to be just
like George Meketa said. Great troubleshooting hints from his part. Worked
great. Poor quality control at the factory though!!
Claude Heiniger
----- Original Message -----
From: Meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: S-TEC Autopiilot installation - Altitude Hold not
working
>
> Claude
>
> It sounds like the wires to the pitch servo motor need to be swapped.
> These are the two wires that actually run the motor. Look at the supplied
> blueprint diagram and swap the wires at the harness end before the servo.
> All servos are wired the same way. If you switch the wires at the servo
end
> of the plug a factory repaired ar replaced servo will again do the same
> thing.
>
> I flew in a friends 182 on the initial auto pilot test flight (S-TEC 30)
and
> it
> would act as you mentioned. The auto pilot would start a pitch up or down
> and would progress into a steep accent or decent. The motor was going in
> the wrong direction.
>
> A simple ground test would be to suck on the static source with the
altitude
> hold engaged and watch the yoke. It should push in for a decent. If it
pulls
> back things are working backwards.
>
> If you have no diagram and need wire colors let me know. I have all the
info
> at
> the airport.
>
> George Meketa
> RV8 / S-TEC 30
>
> >
> > I would appreciate comments from list members who have installed an
> > S-TEC autopilot (50 series).
> >
> > This has just been installed in a Cessna 310 and as the airplane was
> > test flown, it was impossible to have the Altitude mode hold altitude.
> > It would either push the nose over and go out of trim and dive or
> > initiate a steep climb.
> >
> > The Sensor was tested on a static system box and behaved like another
> > one that works ok. It seems like, on a ground test that the servo will
> > not hold the yoke in positon, rather go forward on it.
> >
> > If any one has had a run-in with such a problem, I would appreciate your
> > comments.
> >
> > Greetings from Europe
> >
> > Claude Heiniger
> > A&P, CFII, ATP
> > Stby for a RV-7 when the time is ripe!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N747ES FLYS !!!!1 |
Scot,
CONGRATULATIONS !!! and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
-- RV-List message posted by: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
HI GANG
just a little excited right now since my 4.5 year project left the
grips of
gravity and made a picture perfect takeoff, circled the pattern for
20
minutes and the a perfect landing. a small oil leak was quickly
fixed, and an
aileron was squeezed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N44PH (long) |
Pat,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech oil cooler |
Ernest,
We originally had ours mounted on the rear baffle but had the start of the same
type of baffle cracking Van's experienced. We also rec'd the updated cooler replacement
and it was going to be a very tight fit.
We reinstalled it on the firewall (right side). We built a mount and reinforced
the cockpit side of the firewall. Our battery is in the rear baggage comp. Works
well.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
From: "Ernest Kells" <ERNEST.KELLS(at)SYMPATICO.CA>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Positech oil cooler
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 10:10:35 -0400
-- RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells"
Jim or others:
Has anyone had experience mounting the Positech cooler in front of the
engine (pilot side) per the alternate location in the RV-9A drawing. Since
I have an O-235 N2C with a planned wood prop, I am always interested in
putting stuff more forward for WB concerns. What are the implications -
effectiveness of the cooler, ineffectiveness of engine cooling, hose lengths
and routing, etc. Thanks for any help.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 20% Complete
The description you give sounds adequate. Cutting the half circle out of
the
aft mount flange for engine mount clearance is something I have seen
others
do. It sounds like the middle inner(nearest the mount) long bolt is the
one
you have replaced with the short bolt. This would be the preferred one if
there was a choice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
We have PropGuard installed on our c/s prop - 200hp IO-360. No problems at all
- only missingare nicks in the prop. Highly recommended and easy to install. Excellent
investment!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (25 hours on prop guard)
From: "John" <N1CXO320(at)SALIDACO.COM>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV-List: Prop Guard
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:11:48 -0600
-- RV-List message posted by: "John"
Van's news letter, the RVator, has a short blurb regarding how well
PropGuard worked for the writer...there is precious little in the archives,
and I wondered if anyone "out there" has tried this product.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris mcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
RV6 VH-MUM
Broadford Australia
30June2002
Bloody awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Does it go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> Van's news letter, the RVator, has a short blurb regarding how well
> PropGuard worked for the writer...there is precious little in the
> archives, and I wondered if anyone "out there" has tried this product.
I love it. Wouldn't fly for long without it, certainly not in rain or on
poor quality runways (rocks). Protects my investment in my CS prop.
First 90 hours without prop guard, last 300 hrs with it.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUNO" <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Installation of a Garmin 295 |
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installation of a Garmin 295
Bruno,
I mounted my 295 in a cutout in the panel of my -6. The viewing angle is,
in my opinion, fairly critical and the graphics will all but disapear when
the viewing angle between eyes and screen is not perpendicular. The sun
will also wash it out as is the case with other GPS's. So, a position under
the glare shield or shaded area is prefered. I would go with a RAM mount
and just sit in the plane, in the sun, with the GPS on and move it around
to find a good position for you.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
------------------------------------------------
Hello Jerry
I tried it with the GPS mounted on a knee board and like you
said if the viewing angle is not uptimum it's very hard to see the display
very well,specially if running on batteries.
The RAM Mounts seems to be a good idea but I would need to built
a bracket for it.
Cheers
Bruno
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUNO" <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Installation of a Garmin 295 |
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Installation of a Garmin 295
I'd be interested in knowing too as I haven't found a good place to mount my
GPS III.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
Hello Scott
I saw a few RVs " 4 & 6" at a fly-in last week end and most of
the "4" had theirs GPS III mounted on the glare shield at eye level,it
seems to be a good place for it.
The "6" had theirs mounted either in the panel in front or to
the right of the pilot or installed on side mount like the Rams.
Hope this help
Bruno
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rodney.woodard" <rodney.woodard(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I'm baaaack... |
As Kevin points out, my RV-3 list message went both to the RV-3 list and the
main rv-list. I would have never seen the responses had Kevin not forwarded
them to me. Hmm. The dilemna is whether or not I want to subscribe to the
main list to see ALL the rv-list messages or if I want to leave people
thinking that I'm just not responding....
BTW, I figured something was up when I received e-mail from several people I
haven't heard from in quite a while.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
RV-3 #11339 in progress
www.woodardfamily.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N109RV first flight |
N109RV had it's first flight on Tuesday evening. It flew beautifully but a
high cyl head temp cut the flight short. We will try again in the morning
when it is cool. The ambient temperature was 90deg.
Paul Baird
90355 RV-9A
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
When did the 3rd RVator issue start arriving? I haven't got mine yet :-(
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Labeling |
Patty Gillies wrote:
>
> Everyone,
>
> I own a C140 and found this neat plate to label the fuel selector in their
> newsletter. I called the guy that makes them and asked him to make one for
> my RV6. It is a great looking plate. He is selling them for $15. Please
> see the picture I posted on the picture share. His address is:
>
> James L. Alago
> 895 Garfield Ave
> Lansdale, PA 19446-5570
> (610)584-6193
>
> He doesn't have email, but feel free to email me, and I will try to help.
>
> Patty Gillies
> RV-6, SC
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
Could not find the picture, where is it?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Strong" <gstrong(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Quickbuild Kit for Sale |
Just an fyi :
I'm selling an RV-6A Quickbuild kit purchased in July 2000 on Ebay. The
item number is 1839120531 and the link is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1839120531
I've included a scanned invoice for actual description of included items
and options. I've got only about 100 hours of work done on it so far
with mostly time spent on sheet metal work such as seats, floor, flaps,
etc. Wings are still crated as delivered from factory. Its been
inspected by a local EAA technical advisor (who is a retired A&P/AI)
with no problems or concerns. No tools are included. Kit is in
Minneapolis, MN
Thanks,
Gary S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | used comm radios |
My budget is already pretty badly broken, but I still would like to have
2 radios. The RST audio panel kit at about $250 sounds like a good low
cost choice for the audio panel. I plan on the Bendix KX-125 nav/com,
so another Silvercrown radio below it would at least match style-wise,
but they seem to run around $900 new.
Do you save much by buying a yellow tagged radio? Is there a good
source of such things?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest RVator? |
Got mine late last week, and I am usually among the last.
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
RV6 Finish kit
When did the 3rd RVator issue start arriving? I haven't got mine yet :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: used comm radios |
>
>My budget is already pretty badly broken, but I still would like to have
>2 radios.
For VFR? Why?
> The RST audio panel kit at about $250 sounds like a good low
Why an audio panel?
Why do things have to match?
Another RV owner here says he flew many years in the Navy with just one
radio. Why can't we? I haven't had a radio failure since the days of the
Mark 16.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sealing rivet holes in canopy |
That's "Lexel". I got it at Ace Hardware. Clear, paintable, won't harm the
plexi, cleans up with naptha or alcohol (both of which are also ok on
plexi). Don's right -- clean up before letting it set too long.
Randall
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: sealing rivet holes in canopy
>
> Randall Henderson recommended Lexan. I got it at Home depot. I wish you
> were near. I used 1 per cent of it.
> use naptha to clean up, right then. I waited a day or two, It was a job
> to clean off.
>
> It looks like a clear chaucking.
>
> Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
> Arlington, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List, Has anyone who has installed a Navaid found a way to use a dimmer
control for the LED Display? I have put a small dimmer control in the
panal just for the trim, flap and S-Tec Alt. Hld. LED Readouts.
Finishing up wiring this week then Fiberglas City on the RV6-A!
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 tilt-up Canopy fitting |
Thanks all for the help with my canopy - It's now cut and fitted (whew!),
and awaiting hole enlarging over the 4th of July. I have created another
problem for myself, in that the forward edge of the canopy has a gap of
about 1/4" all across the front canopy skin - the pesky thing moved up on me
during the night. Do I need to be concerned about this? Do I need to
secure this with little brackets a la Sam Buchanan? Should I do the
fiberglas lay-up right over the gap? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Safe and peaceful 4th of July to all, Peter
Peter Blake
60 Beverly Drive
Kintnersville, PA 18930
RV6 tilt-up
N899PB reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Quickbuild Kit for Sale |
Gary,
What happened? I saw you had a bid at $12,000... did you get burnt by
one of those fake bidders?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Strong <gstrong(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Quickbuild Kit for Sale
>
> Just an fyi :
> I'm selling an RV-6A Quickbuild kit purchased in July 2000 on Ebay. The
> item number is 1839120531 and the link is:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1839120531
>
> I've included a scanned invoice for actual description of included items
> and options. I've got only about 100 hours of work done on it so far
> with mostly time spent on sheet metal work such as seats, floor, flaps,
> etc. Wings are still crated as delivered from factory. Its been
> inspected by a local EAA technical advisor (who is a retired A&P/AI)
> with no problems or concerns. No tools are included. Kit is in
> Minneapolis, MN
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary S.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Pro seal curing time |
Rvrs,
Could anyone confirm for me how their Pro-seal has
cured? After several weeks mine is like a fairly hard
rubber but you can definately cut into it with your
fingernail. I saw some the other day that was as hard
as wood on another plane. Please advise.
Thanks,
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 wings 75%
Coeur d'Alene, ID
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Pro seal curing time |
Ross,
I know what your talking about. It had been several years since I
played with some pro-seal and just recently had occasion to do so. After 3
weeks I was still unsure it was "fully" cured; but it was/is as soon as it
hardens to that rubbery state. This was confirmed by my local AP-IA and
numerous others that advised me "off-list".
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pro seal curing time
>
> Rvrs,
>
> Could anyone confirm for me how their Pro-seal has
> cured? After several weeks mine is like a fairly hard
> rubber but you can definately cut into it with your
> fingernail. I saw some the other day that was as hard
> as wood on another plane. Please advise.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV7 wings 75%
> Coeur d'Alene, ID
>
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Instruction (long clarification) |
I guess there has been some confusion. Perhaps I have not understood
some of the questions I have gotten lately (including those from Ken
Scott at the factory.) regarding coverage for instruction.
Specifically, I believe some of you might be under the misconception
that you would not be covered by your insurance policy while receiving
instruction in your airplane (whether an RV or production plane.)
The following text was in response to a posting on my discussion board.
(original text of inquiry posted below this response.)
I would like to clarify some things regarding instruction. There can be
coverage on an individuals Pleasure and Business policy (thru the
VanGuard Program or any other company for that matter). Most policies
would cover losses while training was occurring (if both the CFI and the
instructee were both named pilots.) Or in the case of production
aircraft, the instructee could be named on the policy and the instructor
could either be named or qualify under the open pilot warranty
(homebuilts don't get OPW's ... they are all named pilots only.) So to
say that there would never be coverage under a P + B policy while
training is occurring would be false.
What I think people are confusing that with is a CFI who owns an RV and
wants to do transition training in it. Coverage for that would be much
different. That would need a commercial policy that would include
coverage for instruction. That coverage is more expensive than a
Pleasure and Business (P+B) policy because there is greater risk of an
accident. But, the cost thru the program is actually very reasonable
when compared to single aircraft instruction policies on production
aircraft. And, as far as I am aware the VanGuard program (and possibly
AVEMCO... I'm not sure) is the only place to get such coverage.
The insurance companies are still going to require prior time in type or
checkouts prior to coverage being valid for a pilot in an RV, so to the
insurance companies it isn't as if they are afraid someone is not going
to get a checkout. If the policy has a requirement that the pilot
receive a checkout from a CFI, and the pilot does not get it, but flies
the plane anyway, then the company would likely not pay for the claim.
As far as renters coverage, there is only one company writing that type
of coverage other than AVEMCO, and neither policy covers Experimentals
(I am pretty sure AVEMCO's doesn't, and very sure AIG's doesn't). If
you were doing training in a production aircraft, AIG's non-owned
coverages are better than AVEMCO's, and would likely be available.
However, the policy length is one year, and it is 50% earned at
inception (if you got the coverage and used it for one week and
cancelled the policy, you would only get 50% of your premium back.)
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
Original posting that this is in response to:
A question regarding insurance came up on one of the RV lists
yeaterday regarding insurance coverage for an RV for the purpose
of transition training. Since the FAA has allowed owners to be
compensated for the use of their airplanes for use in transition
training, what is the reality of the insurance world.
I hear that some are having to pay full primary flight school
insurance premiums for limited use as a transition trainer.
The other rumor is that your primary insurance will not cover
any damage if it is determined that the pilot in command is
receiving any sort of training from an instructor.
What would be the insurance ramifications of obtaining
additional flight training in your certified aircraft? Say
someone is working on their IFR rating in their own plane or
getting a complex rating for their new whiz bang folding gear
gas guzzler? If they had a near earth experience and bent some
alumunum, would their in motion insurance cover the repairs or
would the insurance holder say that they were in training and
try to fall back on the instructor's liability insurance?
Is there some type of policy such as a renters policy that would
cover a plane not owned by you for training? Maybe a short time
liability policy or an in motion policy that would cover the
airplane being used?
It looks like it would be in the insurance writers best interest
to have some policy that is not so expensive that you drive most
CFI's out of the transition training area and make transition
training so expensive that people will ignore it and try to fly
a plane that they are not ready to fly. What are your thoughts
on this. You might post on one of the RV groups to get more
coverage
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL near completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Dimmer |
Hi Tom,
I found that the Navaid lighting is not very bright and didn't need a dimmer.
As a matter of fact I installed a UMA light bezel on it to match the
lighting of the rest of my instruments.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Hayward, Ca
> List, Has anyone who has installed a Navaid found a way to use a dimmer
> control for the LED Display? I have put a small dimmer control in the
> panal just for the trim, flap and S-Tec Alt. Hld. LED Readouts.
> Finishing up wiring this week then Fiberglas City on the RV6-A!
>
> Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro seal curing time |
proseal is made to be flexible. Let me give you a
small history lesson (as you can see proseal is one of
my specialties)
Proseal was designed in the 40's specifically for the
B-29 bomber. The wings were long and flexible and were
very prone to leaks, proseal cured the problem. heres
the answer to your question. You want it to be black
in color (Very dark grey to black) the darker the
color the quicker the curing time and the harder the
proseal will be. Even in it's darkest form it will
still be flexible. If your friends is as hard as wood
I would doubt that it is proseal. (could be epoxied
over proseal) anyway if your batch starts to set up on
you use MEK to soften it up and get some more working
time out of it. (be advised that after using mek the
batch will cure faster still. hope this helps
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Texas
--- Ross Schlotthauer
wrote:
>
>
> Rvrs,
>
> Could anyone confirm for me how their Pro-seal has
> cured? After several weeks mine is like a fairly
> hard
> rubber but you can definately cut into it with your
> fingernail. I saw some the other day that was as
> hard
> as wood on another plane. Please advise.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV7 wings 75%
> Coeur d'Alene, ID
>
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers,
what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in level
flight?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: sealing rivet holes in canopy |
In a message dated 7/2/2002 9:54:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
randallh(at)attbi.com writes:
> That's "Lexel". I got it at Ace Hardware. Clear, paintable, won't harm the
> plexi, cleans up with naptha or alcohol (both of which are also ok on
> plexi).
That's naphtha.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 525hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Did you mistakenly hook it to the pitot instead of static?
Pat Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
dear listers,
what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
flight?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
Perhaps it would behave like that if it were hooked up to the pitot system
instead of the static system...
Scott in Vancouver
-6 painting
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
>
> dear listers,
> what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
> flight?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
Dear Scott,
Hmmm,
Accurate when standing still, but a 1000ft error when in motion? Are your
static ports located as per plans? Any possible low pressure turbulence in
this area?
Good luck troubleshooting, and a Very Happy 4th of July!
Konrad
ABQ
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
>
> dear listers,
> what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
> flight?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
>
> dear listers,
> what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
> flight?
> scott
> tampa
>
Scott, I had the very same problem with my orginal VSI and finally
determined that apparently when I installed it in the panel, the paint in
the panel hole caused sufficient friction that when I tightened the mounting
screws I cracked the case of the VSI. It drove me batty for months thinking
it was my static system before finding the cracked case.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rodney.woodard" <rodney.woodard(at)attbi.com> |
Hello,
I went to the workshop today with every intention of making some serious
headway toward finishing my elevators. I picked up the elevator control horn
and instantly recognized a big mistake...
I incorrectly placed the root rib (E-304) on the right elevator spar. In
order for the control horn to fit, the web of the rib (E-304) must form the
correct angle with the spar (E-302). I did at least a couple of things
incorrectly:
(1) I cyphered the angle of the root roob which wasn't exactly the angle of
the steel rudder control horn. I also (incorrectly) had already drilled the
skeleton to the skin... when I should have waited until I had at least
drilled the control horn to the spar & rib. The control horn would have set
the angle and the holes through the skin would have followed from there.
(2) This was the dumb/obvious mistake... When I riveted the rib to the
spar, I set the rib about an inch outboard on the spar rather than making
the web of the rib and the web of the spar line up and form a nice angle for
the rudder control horn. This is hard to descibe but was immediately
apparent when I picked up the control horn.
This is the first really big screw-up for me with this RV-3 project. I'm
thinking I'll create a section on my web site specfically for mistakes. I
didn't take pictures today so things will have to wait until at least Sunday
when I get home from work.
The good news from all this is that the total cost of the mistake including
a new spar, new elevator skin, new ribs(2) and new stiffener material is
about $65. Throw in about $40 for shipping and handling and I end up with a
$100 mistake. I suppose if this is the most expensive mistake I make, I'll
be happy!
Best regards to all.
Rod Woodard
RV-3 #11339 1 step forward; 2 steps back!
www.woodardfamily.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com> |
Your static must be blocked the VSI is acting like an Altimeter, probably if
you went higher it will indicate more of a descent.
Your airspeed and Altimeter must be erroneous also.
Be carefull!
Michel
RV3
RV8 forever painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
dear listers,
what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
flight?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
I had a similar problem on my first flight. VSI was actually reading
backwards. After many hours of confusion, I replaced the instrument
entirely. Problem gone. It was a bad VSI. The instrument shop said that
they aren't worth rebuildling.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
>
> dear listers,
> what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
> flight?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
I'd be curious as to what you finally determine to be the cause. I
can't believe it is a blocked static, because that should cause the
instrument to not read anything. The reason I think it is hooked to the
pitot is because straight and level flight would deliver nearly constant
pressure which the instrument should interpret as a descent. In fact, I
would expect the pitot to deliver enough pressure to indicate a maximum
rate but then again it is a pretty small opening. Since you mentioned
level flight explicitly, I would guess you see different indications
when you change pitch attitude or airspeed. Anyway, color me curious.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: vsi problem
dear listers,
what would cause a VSI to show zero on the ground and 1000 ft decent in
level
flight?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
Chris Susie,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (flying)
From: "chris mcgough" <RV6(at)SSC.NET.AU>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 06:23:40 +1000
-- RV-List message posted by: "chris mcgough"
RV6 VH-MUM
Broadford Australia
30June2002
Bloody awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Does it go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N109RV first flight |
Paul,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
From: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: N109RV first flight
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:08:48 EDT
-- RV-List message posted by: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
N109RV had it's first flight on Tuesday evening. It flew beautifully but a
high cyl head temp cut the flight short. We will try again in the morning
when it is cool. The ambient temperature was 90deg.
Paul Baird
90355 RV-9A
Flying!
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Single Radio - was used com radios |
Re the use of 2 radios. I live in the Northeast, about halfway between
Boston and NY class bravos. As a result, most of my X country flying
involves flight following and occasionally includes a clearance into Class
Bravo. I have a KY 197 and occasionally have to get a "temporary frequency
Change" to check ASOS/ATIS at my destination airport. I was thinking of
adding a radio but reallywould like to keep my RV-4 as light as possible.
I recently flew in an UPSAT SL-40 equipped plane. This allows you to
monitor the standby with priority given to the active frequency. Suddenly 1
radio can do everything I need. Will be ordering as soon as I save up the
$$.
Then I'll have a nice KY 197 for sale.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: used comm radios |
Hal:
The spam cans I've rented have had pretty frequent radio failures. But
having 2 radios made it a minor event. So, from that experience,
redundancy is my main reason. There is some convenience too: If you have
2 radios and an audio panel you can monitor one frequency while using
another for xmit/receive.
As for the VOR, it's a *completely* independent (from GPS) means of
navigation. I actually saw one time when my GPS couldn't get enough
satellites for a long time. Any system can fail. Yes, I'll be VFR, but
I'll have a gyro horizon and a turn coordinator too. I don't plan on
ever getting into a zero visibility situation, but the atmosphere is a
chaotic thing which doesn't care about my plans. If it does happen, I
mean to keep the right side up.
Another reason for all this is to make the plane more "standard",
should I ever want to sell it.
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> >
> >My budget is already pretty badly broken, but I still would like to have
> >2 radios.
>
> For VFR? Why?
>
> > The RST audio panel kit at about $250 sounds like a good low
>
> Why an audio panel?
>
> Why do things have to match?
>
> Another RV owner here says he flew many years in the Navy with just one
> radio. Why can't we? I haven't had a radio failure since the days of the
> Mark 16.
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Single Radio - was used com radios |
Hi George,
Is there a site on the web for this equipment?
Jim in Kelowna
Hi Jim
For information on UPSAT they have a nice web site with product info,
installation manuals etc. and some wiring diagrams at www.upsat.com/
George McNutt
Langley B.C. - flying, 40 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Single Radio - was used com radios |
Re: Is there a site on the web for this equipment
For Info Try:
http://www.upsat.com/sl40.shtml
http://www.upsat.com/sl40.shtml (same thing but with GPS also)
also go to
avionicswest.com
click ups panel mount, gpswithoutmovingmap
When you see sl40, click the review section. and you will get a review.
Regards,
Don
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Dimmer |
Thanks for the input Cash after testing the Navaid I believe you are
correct. The Navaid lighting is not bright enough to bother me at night.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Dimmer
>
> Hi Tom,
> I found that the Navaid lighting is not very bright and didn't need a
dimmer.
> As a matter of fact I installed a UMA light bezel on it to match the
> lighting of the rest of my instruments.
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 Hayward, Ca
>
> > List, Has anyone who has installed a Navaid found a way to use a dimmer
> > control for the LED Display? I have put a small dimmer control in the
> > panal just for the trim, flap and S-Tec Alt. Hld. LED Readouts.
> > Finishing up wiring this week then Fiberglas City on the RV6-A!
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
I have sent new vsi's back a couple of times for the same problem (imports).
The problem was a leak in the glass to case interface. A case crack would
do the same thing. If you have a vsi that you can reseal the glass from the
front it is a minor repair. Total disassembly is a chore. You can test two
ways: Use vasoline(sp) to make a light seal around the glass edge or remove
instrument and lightly pressurize port so you can test with soapy water.
Field repairs: Pro seal et al for external cracks etc.
Other instruments can read errors with the same problem but they can be
found with static systems checks (usually).
The vsi has a calibrated leak IFIRC and case leaks are no-no. Remember to
break the glass when your static ports get plugged by micro-daubbers.
Experts jump in.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Dimmer |
Tom, the trim may be a little bright at night but It has a wire coming out of
it that will dim it if you apply 12V + DC.
I hooked this wire of mine to the Nav light lead and it dims when they come on.
It is a preset value. not adjustable dimming.
Works great.
Phil Sisson Litchfield, IL
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input Cash after testing the Navaid I believe you are
> correct. The Navaid lighting is not bright enough to bother me at night.
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Dimmer
>
> >
> > Hi Tom,
> > I found that the Navaid lighting is not very bright and didn't need a
> dimmer.
> > As a matter of fact I installed a UMA light bezel on it to match the
> > lighting of the rest of my instruments.
> > Cash Copeland
> > RV6 Hayward, Ca
> >
> > > List, Has anyone who has installed a Navaid found a way to use a dimmer
> > > control for the LED Display? I have put a small dimmer control in the
> > > panal just for the trim, flap and S-Tec Alt. Hld. LED Readouts.
> > > Finishing up wiring this week then Fiberglas City on the RV6-A!
> > >
> > > Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale |
Listers--We have a straight wooden RV6/6A fuselage jig available that has
built two RV's. We paid $90 for it and now don't need it because we got a
quick-build fuselage. Any takers? --LeRoy Johnston, 614-848-5863 (Columbus,
Ohio).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Closed end rivets |
Anything special about popping in these closed end rivets for the baffle and
ribs? Getting ready to install the baffle, couldn't find anything in the
archives.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Closed end rivets |
| From: | tlutgring(at)juno.com |
Nothing special about the rivets, just have to make sure your rivet
tool has a narrow enough nose to fit next to the Z-brackets. Make sure of
that before you have the pro seal mixed up. Most pop rivet guns can be
ground down enough to fit if it is to big.
This is assuming your building a 9, or that the brackets are similar on
the 7.
Tom in Ohio,
RV9A wings, tanks finished
writes:
>
> Anything special about popping in these closed end rivets for the
> baffle and
> ribs? Getting ready to install the baffle, couldn't find anything
> in the
> archives.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
I have seen lots of information on working with Plexiglas, but very
little of it addresses the subject of how to finish the cut edges nice
and smooth. Except I hear "don't use a torch".
How do you guys recommend smoothing and finishing cut edges of the
canopy?
Gary
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Avery sells a scraping tool that will make the edges very nice and smooth.
It works great.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass
>
> I have seen lots of information on working with Plexiglas, but very
> little of it addresses the subject of how to finish the cut edges nice
> and smooth. Except I hear "don't use a torch".
>
> How do you guys recommend smoothing and finishing cut edges of the
> canopy?
>
> Gary
> RV-9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/4/02 8:14:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv9er(at)3rivers.net
writes:
<< I have seen lots of information on working with Plexiglas, but very
little of it addresses the subject of how to finish the cut edges nice
and smooth. Except I hear "don't use a torch".
How do you guys recommend smoothing and finishing cut edges of the
canopy?
Gary
RV-9A >>
Avery and Cleveland both sell a scraping tool that works well. Another thing
you can do is get a sanding block and smooth the edge progressively,
beginning with say 150 grit, then progressing to somethign finer - at least
400 grit. Plan to spend a few hours on this mundane task. In the end, you
want a rounded edge without any nicks that can be felt by running your finger
down the edge.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | 6A gear legs for sale |
Larry at TTD changed his plane from a -6A to a -6 after only flying it less
than a year. He will sell all his extra parts at half of Van's new price,
preferably all together. This includes the nose gear, wheel, pant, fairing,
two main gear legs, leg sockets, engine mount and both the steps. There is
absloutely nothing wrong with these parts. It would be a great deal if you
haven't already ordered these parts for your plane yet.
E-mail me off-line and I will get you in touch with Larry. Kevin Lane
N3773(at)attbi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Closed end rivets |
Tom Dana and Listers,
When trying to reach into tight areas with pop rivets the tool is often
frustratingly close to but not getting the job done.
It just so happens that the tail end or shank of the rivets are more than
long enough to reach the grippers inside most rivet pulling tools. Look at a
pulled rivet "shank" to get an idea of the extra length.
Using an approximately 5/8" long piece of small diameter thick wall Brass
tubing (from the local hobby shop) and a narrow strip of .032 Alclad with a
hole drilled at one end it is possible to reach deeper into tight areas. A
simular extention could be made by center drilling a short length of steel
rod, a bolt shank or what have you.
This modification also effectively narrows the nose of the tool as well.
The tube acts as an extension. The strip with the hole match drilled to the
shank size of the rivet acts to replace the face of the tool mandrel. Slip
the rivet shank into the drilled strip, then into the extension and then
into the tool. Take aim you are now ready to shoot. {:-)!
With the tool that I have here at hand I can extend the tool's reach by
slightly more than 5/8", your mileage might vary.
The drilled piece of .032 will also act to provide a temporary right sized
mandrel face for that missing mandrel situation.
Also if you find that the rivets you are pulling end up with a burr or a
sharp edge around the hole in the center of the head drill another strip
with a hole that matches the rivet shank size as close as is possible and
the rivet heads will now be right.
I have strips with various hole sizes on each end that I use every time I
pull rivets.
For the common sizes I have one strip drilled at both ends on a string
attached to the rivet tool.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> Nothing special about the rivets, just have to make sure your rivet
> tool has a narrow enough nose to fit next to the Z-brackets. Make sure of
> that before you have the pro seal mixed up. Most pop rivet guns can be
> ground down enough to fit if it is to big.
> This is assuming your building a 9, or that the brackets are similar on
> the 7.
> Tom in Ohio,
> RV9A wings, tanks finished
>
>
> writes:
> >
> > Anything special about popping in these closed end rivets for the
> > baffle and
> > ribs? Getting ready to install the baffle, couldn't find anything
> > in the
> > archives.
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> >
> >
> > http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale |
Along this note, I've Frey Steel Jig with "Bird-cage" option (holds the
front and rear spar dimentions very accurate) for the RV-6, in Nashville
TN. Delivery possible. Price negotiable. Asking $600.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
Do no Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale
Listers--We have a straight wooden RV6/6A fuselage jig available that
has
built two RV's. We paid $90 for it and now don't need it because we got
a
quick-build fuselage. Any takers? --LeRoy Johnston, 614-848-5863
(Columbus,
Ohio).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Gary,
I used a file then sanded with a block using progressively finer grits, it
took very little time.
Some use a shaped scraper they buy or make from a gound hacksaw blade then
sandpaper.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> I have seen lots of information on working with Plexiglas, but very
> little of it addresses the subject of how to finish the cut edges nice
> and smooth. Except I hear "don't use a torch".
>
> How do you guys recommend smoothing and finishing cut edges of the
> canopy?
>
> Gary
> RV-9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
use a belt sander, works perfect and leaves a great finish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
A 1" or 2" scotch bright wheel in an air grinder works well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (Airworthiness certificate received last week)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary
Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass
I have seen lots of information on working with Plexiglas, but very
little of it addresses the subject of how to finish the cut edges nice
and smooth. Except I hear "don't use a torch".
How do you guys recommend smoothing and finishing cut edges of the
canopy?
Gary
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale |
I have a wooden jig that is available soon. It has been used to build three
fuse, two being RV8s and now an RV7. I paid $90 which is what the value of
the lumber is in it. I'll sell for $75 off if anyone is interested.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale
>
> Along this note, I've Frey Steel Jig with "Bird-cage" option (holds the
> front and rear spar dimentions very accurate) for the RV-6, in Nashville
> TN. Delivery possible. Price negotiable. Asking $600.
> Marty in Brentwood TN.
> Do no Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale
>
>
> Listers--We have a straight wooden RV6/6A fuselage jig available that
> has
> built two RV's. We paid $90 for it and now don't need it because we got
> a
> quick-build fuselage. Any takers? --LeRoy Johnston, 614-848-5863
> (Columbus,
> Ohio).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A gear legs for sale |
Larry does have e-mail lleeman400(at)aol.com the legs have 187 hrs on them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: 6A gear legs for sale
>
> Larry at TTD changed his plane from a -6A to a -6 after only flying it
less
> than a year. He will sell all his extra parts at half of Van's new price,
> preferably all together. This includes the nose gear, wheel, pant,
fairing,
> two main gear legs, leg sockets, engine mount and both the steps. There
is
> absloutely nothing wrong with these parts. It would be a great deal if
you
> haven't already ordered these parts for your plane yet.
> E-mail me off-line and I will get you in touch with Larry. Kevin
Lane
> N3773(at)attbi.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | pop riveting tips |
Tom Dana and Listers,
When trying to reach into tight areas with pop rivets the tool is often
frustratingly close to but not getting the job done.
It just so happens that the tail end or shank of the rivets are more than
long enough to reach the grippers inside most rivet pulling tools. Look at
a
pulled rivet "shank" to get an idea of the extra length.
Using an approximately 5/8" long piece of small diameter thick wall Brass
tubing (from the local hobby shop) and a narrow strip of .032 Alclad with a
hole drilled at one end it is possible to reach deeper into tight areas. A
simular extention could be made by center drilling a short length of steel
rod, a bolt shank or what have you.
This modification also effectively narrows the nose of the tool as well.
The tube acts as an extension. The strip with the hole match drilled to the
shank size of the rivet acts to replace the face of the tool mandrel. Slip
the rivet shank into the drilled strip, then into the extension and then
into the tool. Take aim you are now ready to shoot. {:-)!
With the tool that I have here at hand I can extend the tool's reach by
slightly more than 5/8", your mileage might vary.
The drilled piece of .032 will also act to provide a temporary right sized
mandrel face for that missing mandrel situation.
Also if you find that the rivets you are pulling end up with a burr or a
sharp edge around the hole in the center of the head, drill another strip
with a hole that matches the rivet shank size as close as is possible and
the rivet heads will now be right.
I have strips with various hole sizes on each end that I use every time I
pull rivets.
For the common sizes I have one strip drilled at both ends on a string
attached to the rivet tool.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | F-1 Rocket for Sale |
F-1 ROCKET KIT, ENGINE, PROP,INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE I have for sale an F-1
Rocket kit, a completely overhauled IO-540 C4B5 engine (overhauled by Don
George), and a new Hartzell 3-bladed prop. Instrumentation includes but not
limited to: new Garmin 250XL radio, fuel guages, fuel pressure, EI
volt/ammeter, manifold pressure guage, and more. Also included is a NavAid
autopilot unit. Unit servo is installed and attached to the torgue tube.
Wings are closed up and I have position and strobe lights as well as a tail
white light. Also included is a F-1 Rocket tailgroup. Skeleton is built,
ready to be skinned. This F-1 Rocket kit is extremely far along in its build.
Electrical sub-panel complete including all circuit breakers installed.
Interior Fuselage is complete. Fuel system complete with the exception of the
installation of the electric fuel pump (included). Engine has the airflow
performance kit, starter, alternator, Rose electronic ignition with the ring
gear for high powered engines. Master solenoid, starter solenoid are
included. Almost everything needed to complete rocket is included. Rocket
could be flying in approx 5 months with some effort. Will consider the first
$85,000. Please no tire kickers. Call 561-848-3418 or cell 561-373-3797.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Thread locker and plexiglas |
I'm looking for a thread locker for use on the screws I'm using to mount my
canopy - I know from experience and the archives that Loctite is a no-no
around plastics. I saw a reference to a thread locker called Vibritite,
which they claim is not anaerobic product and can be used on plastic. Do
any of you have experience with plexi-compatible thread lockers? Thanks and
best regards,
Peter Blake
RV6 tilt-up
N899PB reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Picture |
Hi Listers:
Up until my computer crashed a month ago whereafter I had to reload all
my software, I was using a picture of a RV-8 as the background of my
screen. I'd like to recover this picture but don't recall who's it was
and a search in the archive has not surfaced this. Does anyone have a
RV-8 painted yellow with black markings and can you mail or point me to
a link of a picture of it?
Marty in Brentwood, TN
Do no Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
Hey Guys,
I am just looking over my engine installation (IO-360)and trying to get a
clear picture in my mind of what has to be accomplished and how to do it.
Looking at the Lycoming manuals, there is a picture of the manifold pressure
connection location. That location is currently covered with a plate that
is held on with two screws. I am assuming that if I remove this plate that
there will be a threaded hole underneath? Do I just use a normal pipe to
tube fitting and run a 1/4" hose to a manifold pressure sensor mounted on
the firewall?
I have been looking and I don't find any information on mounting the fly
wheel. Do I pull the plugs, rotate no. 1 to TDC, then mount the starter
ring aligned with some mark? I am assuming that there is some procedure,
otherwise how could the timing ever be checked with a timing light?
Vince
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
Ref. Peter Blake on thread locker and Plexiglas. I used a small dab of
ProSeal. We already have it so cost isn't a factor, it's plexiglas
safe, and I can't think of any negatives except for mess but in such
small quantities it is controllable.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6 Slider
wiring done, cowl next
Northfield, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Single Radio - was used com radios |
Paul,
Obviously GPS isn't going to be obsolete any time soon but it was only a
few years ago that my Garmin 55AVD looked like the best GPS ever - it
couldn't get much better. Well, it did! It got a LOT better, and I have
no reason to believe that in another 5 years it won't get that much
better again. So it just could be that in a few years you might be stuck
with a GPS that you'd like to replace but can't because you'd have to
replace everything again.
And, yes you can fly with 40 year old nav equipment but do you really
want to? I don't.
Dave
Date:
How soon do you supposed GPS is going to be obsolete? Most in the
industry
are saying that GPS is going to make the VOR obsolete. DARPA spent a
fortune putting up those satellites, and it is slowly becoming the
standard
for civilian and military aviation, as well as oceanic navigation. I
personally do not see GPS going away during the next 50 years. Granted
there will be enhancements in GPS technology, but understand that we can
fly
airplanes that have 40 year old navigation equipment in them today. I
bet
that 40 years from now we will be able to fly with 40 year old GPS
equipment
as well.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
I have a TC-001 Turn and bank indicator. On the back it is marked
1-POS 2-GND 3-NOT USED.
The pins of the connector are unmarked. Look at the instrument from the
back (facing aft as it is mounted in the A/C) the pins are in a triangle,
two long the top, and one on the bottom. Could someone tell me which pin
is 1, 2, and three? I sure don't want to hook it up backward.
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ELT antenna mount where? |
On the RV8A there seems to be no "good" spot to mount the ELT antenna. Under
the bottom it probably would be ripped off in a crash landing and the slide
back canopy uses up the top rear of the fueselage. Looking for ideas.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finish kit-FF kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root plumbing |
heres dons e-mail, but he monitors this list but is too shy to post :-)
twofeathersrv6(at)aol.com
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
Vince, look closely at your flywheel. one hole is larger than the others. Almost
un-noticable. This will only fit on in one way. When you get it on, the timing
marks will be true. Let me know if you have a problem, I will get the book out..
Phil Sisson at Litchfield, IL
Pitt's S1S N1GB, RV6 someday.....
Vincent Welch wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I am just looking over my engine installation (IO-360)and trying to get a
> clear picture in my mind of what has to be accomplished and how to do it.
> Looking at the Lycoming manuals, there is a picture of the manifold pressure
> connection location. That location is currently covered with a plate that
> is held on with two screws. I am assuming that if I remove this plate that
> there will be a threaded hole underneath? Do I just use a normal pipe to
> tube fitting and run a 1/4" hose to a manifold pressure sensor mounted on
> the firewall?
>
> I have been looking and I don't find any information on mounting the fly
> wheel. Do I pull the plugs, rotate no. 1 to TDC, then mount the starter
> ring aligned with some mark? I am assuming that there is some procedure,
> otherwise how could the timing ever be checked with a timing light?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
Vince, also, I have a flywheel right here in the computer room. I started
looking at it. Cant tell which hole is bigger. I started sticking fingers in the
holes. One hole let my index finger go in to past first knuckle. Other 5 holes
wouldnt let knuckle in...
(Hillbilly micrometer)
Phil at Litchfield, IL
Vincent Welch wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I am just looking over my engine installation (IO-360)and trying to get a
> clear picture in my mind of what has to be accomplished and how to do it.
> Looking at the Lycoming manuals, there is a picture of the manifold pressure
> connection location. That location is currently covered with a plate that
> is held on with two screws. I am assuming that if I remove this plate that
> there will be a threaded hole underneath? Do I just use a normal pipe to
> tube fitting and run a 1/4" hose to a manifold pressure sensor mounted on
> the firewall?
>
> I have been looking and I don't find any information on mounting the fly
> wheel. Do I pull the plugs, rotate no. 1 to TDC, then mount the starter
> ring aligned with some mark? I am assuming that there is some procedure,
> otherwise how could the timing ever be checked with a timing light?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
ok listers,
i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
any thoughts?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pictures of the EFIS-D10 available |
Hello listers.
We have posted several pictures of our EFIS-D10 on our
website www.dynondevelopment.com. One of them is the
unit installed in my (unfinished) panel; the other two
were taken during a flight test in a C180.
We will be at both Arlington and Oshkosh this summer.
Stop by and say hello.
Doug Medema
Dynon Development
RV-6A #21140 wiring up the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A gear legs for sale |
I am interested in the engine mount and nose gear leg. What engine is the
mount built for?
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
My flywheel (from an O-320 via Aerosport Power) has the "0" (the numeral
zero) stamped adjacent the hole which fits the crankshaft lug with the
shoulder on it. Requires a careful look to see it.
(My fingers all fit through all the holes - so the HB micro method will not
work for me.)
Jim Oke
RV-6A
CYWG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manifold Pressure
>
> Vince, also, I have a flywheel right here in the computer room. I started
> looking at it. Cant tell which hole is bigger. I started sticking fingers
in the
> holes. One hole let my index finger go in to past first knuckle. Other 5
holes
> wouldnt let knuckle in...
> (Hillbilly micrometer)
>
> Phil at Litchfield, IL
>
> Vincent Welch wrote:
>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I am just looking over my engine installation (IO-360)and trying to get
a
> > clear picture in my mind of what has to be accomplished and how to do
it.
> > Looking at the Lycoming manuals, there is a picture of the manifold
pressure
> > connection location. That location is currently covered with a plate
that
> > is held on with two screws. I am assuming that if I remove this plate
that
> > there will be a threaded hole underneath? Do I just use a normal pipe
to
> > tube fitting and run a 1/4" hose to a manifold pressure sensor mounted
on
> > the firewall?
> >
> > I have been looking and I don't find any information on mounting the fly
> > wheel. Do I pull the plugs, rotate no. 1 to TDC, then mount the starter
> > ring aligned with some mark? I am assuming that there is some
procedure,
> > otherwise how could the timing ever be checked with a timing light?
> >
> > Vince
> > RV-8A
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)attbi.com> |
First guess is you're static ports are not quite in the right place on the
fuselage. Try taping a small piece of .032 aluminum just in front of the
ports and go flying again and see if that fixes it.
Bob RV8-423 still working on fuselage. Will it ever end?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: VSI again
ok listers,
i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
any thoughts?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna mount where? |
I, like many others, mounted mine under the empennage fairing. The base of
the antenna is mounted to the 810 bulkhead. I used a scrap piece of
fiberglass to secure the end of the antenna from bouncing around.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (FSDO airworthiness certificate awarded last week)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna mount where?
On the RV8A there seems to be no "good" spot to mount the ELT antenna.
Under
the bottom it probably would be ripped off in a crash landing and the slide
back canopy uses up the top rear of the fueselage. Looking for ideas.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finish kit-FF kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)kiva.net> |
I'm moving my RV6A project and am trying to decide how to package/protect
the wings.
I sent the note below to Van's and will see what they say, but are there
others out there that have successfully moved RV wings by setting them in a
trailer/truck leading edge down?
How are the QB wings packaged for delivery?
Thanks for your input, and here's the note with the details that I sent
Van's asking about this:
I'm prepping for the 3rd x-ctry u-haul move of my RV6A project due to
another military move (this move completes first round trip for the tail
section as I'm moving back into my house from 2 tours ago...). This is a
~2500 mile trip from Indiana to Washington state.
My question is on moving the wings. Last time I moved them both
horizontally w/ bottoms resting on foam padding. This time I'd like to
stand them up vertical against the walls of the u-haul, resting them on the
leading edges. Is there adequate strength in the leading edge to support
the wing if I load and protect the wing as described below?
Plan is to tape pillows along the length of leading edges (two body-length
pillows per wing), then with padding on top & bottom sides of wing (thin
foam b/w wing and trailer walls), set the wings leading edge down on 5" HD
foam. The 5" foam would be 12 inch wide strips with a 5&1/2 foot length
under the inboard 5&1/2 feet of the leading edge with another 15 inch long
piece at the outboard end.
If the leading edge down method is likely to damage the wings then I will
find a way to do it horizontally again.
Thanks for your help,
Chris Hand
RV-6A, #23559
ckhand(at)kiva.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com> |
That proves the static was plugged. Do not block off the line, that is your
static from the cabin. I have an alternate static in my RV3 which selects
cabin air when open and there is only a small difference between that and
the one port static.
Michel
RV3 1100 hrs
RV8 painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: VSI again
ok listers,
i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
any thoughts?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mount where? |
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-447x.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna mount where?
>
> On the RV8A there seems to be no "good" spot to mount the ELT antenna.
Under
> the bottom it probably would be ripped off in a crash landing and the
slide
> back canopy uses up the top rear of the fueselage. Looking for ideas.
>
> Wayne Petrus
> RV8A finish kit-FF kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: moving wings |
Chris,
I too moved my wings, but I did it leading edge up. The following assumes
that you have not cut off the 1" spar extension that protrudes from the tip
rib. I made two stands to support the spar at both ends out of 2 x 6's and
bolted them to the spar at inboard and outboard ends. On the outboard end I
drilled four 3/16" holes for lag screws and fastened the 1" extension to the
stand. I then joined the two stands at the bottom with a long 2 x 4 to
stiffen the structure. This also works great if you're going to paint the
wings off the fuselage. This is a very stable arrangement for traveling--I
had the ailerons and flaps installed but if you do this you might want to
put two 2 X 4's along the bottom to support the flaps and ailerons.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
>From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)kiva.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: moving wings
>Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 18:56:49 -0500
>
>
>I'm moving my RV6A project and am trying to decide how to package/protect
>the wings.
>I sent the note below to Van's and will see what they say, but are there
>others out there that have successfully moved RV wings by setting them in a
>trailer/truck leading edge down?
>How are the QB wings packaged for delivery?
>
>Thanks for your input, and here's the note with the details that I sent
>Van's asking about this:
>
>I'm prepping for the 3rd x-ctry u-haul move of my RV6A project due to
>another military move (this move completes first round trip for the tail
>section as I'm moving back into my house from 2 tours ago...). This is a
>~2500 mile trip from Indiana to Washington state.
>
>My question is on moving the wings. Last time I moved them both
>horizontally w/ bottoms resting on foam padding. This time I'd like to
>stand them up vertical against the walls of the u-haul, resting them on the
>leading edges. Is there adequate strength in the leading edge to support
>the wing if I load and protect the wing as described below?
>
>Plan is to tape pillows along the length of leading edges (two body-length
>pillows per wing), then with padding on top & bottom sides of wing (thin
>foam b/w wing and trailer walls), set the wings leading edge down on 5" HD
>foam. The 5" foam would be 12 inch wide strips with a 5&1/2 foot length
>under the inboard 5&1/2 feet of the leading edge with another 15 inch long
>piece at the outboard end.
>
>If the leading edge down method is likely to damage the wings then I will
>find a way to do it horizontally again.
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A, #23559
>ckhand(at)kiva.net
>
>
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs TT
0-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, Flying
0-360, Hartzell C/S
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mount where? |
Here's where I put mine:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/panel27.jpg
-Bill
----Original Message Follows----
From: Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna mount where?
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 13:50:52 EDT
On the RV8A there seems to be no "good" spot to mount the ELT antenna.
Under
the bottom it probably would be ripped off in a crash landing and the slide
back canopy uses up the top rear of the fueselage. Looking for ideas.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finish kit-FF kit
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: moving wings |
Chris,
I too moved my wings horizontally in a U-Crawl. I made crates out of 2 x 10s
& Plywood. At each end the spar was anchored to the crate to keep them from
sliding around. (Dado for the root end and blocks at the tip) Blankets above
and below. The crates were sturdy enough to stack on top of each other with
other plane parts, etc., on top. They made it from Tallahassee to The Big
Crab Apple with no problem. Good Luck!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Flippin floppy fuselage parts around the jig
Long Island New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
The 'T' stand has been describe before; however, here is what I did. I
built a bottom frame of 2x4 that measured 4' by 6'. This frame was
mounted on casters so I could move it easily. Along each 6' edge I
erected a 1' fence and made a 3' fence down the center parallel to them.
I then draped some carpet somewhat loosely over the fence crossmembers.
This gave me two cradles. I set the wings into the cradles leading edge
down and tilted toward the center fence.
When it came time to move, the whole thing - cradle and wings - was
moved out to the truck and the wings were temporarily placed on padding
on the ground. The cradle was placed into the truck and 2x4 was nailed
to the bed so that it blocked the casters from rolling or turning. The
cradle was oriented so that the wings would run fore/aft and the wings
would have room to be centered on the cradle. Once the wings were in
place, cargo straps were run from side to side in the truck to prevent
the wings from sliding in the cradle. I got my wings and most of my
apartment furnishings in a 17' Ryder truck. It went from Ann Arbor to
Chicago with the cab door open so I could see if anything moved; nothing
did. Unfortunately the pictures I took did not come out. However, I
will be moving again (this time a 28' truck from Chicago to Flagstaff)
in a couple of weeks, using the same cradle. This time I hope to get
better pictures; I ditched my old low-res camera for a megapixel camera.
I'd snap a photo of the cradle now but the wings are in storage until
I'm ready to load the truck, surrounded by boxes and such, so you'll
have to be patient.
Hope the description helped.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris & Kellie
Hand
Subject: RV-List: moving wings
I'm moving my RV6A project and am trying to decide how to
package/protect
the wings.
I sent the note below to Van's and will see what they say, but are there
others out there that have successfully moved RV wings by setting them
in a
trailer/truck leading edge down?
How are the QB wings packaged for delivery?
Thanks for your input, and here's the note with the details that I sent
Van's asking about this:
I'm prepping for the 3rd x-ctry u-haul move of my RV6A project due to
another military move (this move completes first round trip for the tail
section as I'm moving back into my house from 2 tours ago...). This is
a
~2500 mile trip from Indiana to Washington state.
My question is on moving the wings. Last time I moved them both
horizontally w/ bottoms resting on foam padding. This time I'd like to
stand them up vertical against the walls of the u-haul, resting them on
the
leading edges. Is there adequate strength in the leading edge to
support
the wing if I load and protect the wing as described below?
Plan is to tape pillows along the length of leading edges (two
body-length
pillows per wing), then with padding on top & bottom sides of wing (thin
foam b/w wing and trailer walls), set the wings leading edge down on 5"
HD
foam. The 5" foam would be 12 inch wide strips with a 5&1/2 foot length
under the inboard 5&1/2 feet of the leading edge with another 15 inch
long
piece at the outboard end.
If the leading edge down method is likely to damage the wings then I
will
find a way to do it horizontally again.
Thanks for your help,
Chris Hand
RV-6A, #23559
ckhand(at)kiva.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: moving wings |
Van's guys packed my QBs partially complete wings on moving pads, leading
edge down and strapped to the side of the UHaul truck. The wings are sturdy.
And, it flies beautifully!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
I flew to Camarillo last weekend. For the first time I cruised at
16,500' with oxygen. I have a new fuel flow meter that I am still
calibrating, although it seems to be right on as far as fuel remaining.
I was able to get at 2300 rpm, 150kts, 4.3 gph and at 2200rpm, 140kts,
3.8 gph! I have a 160hp with sensenich fp prop, jeff rose ignition on
the right mag, on my -6A. Do these figures match others with the same
equipment? It works out to 36 nm per gallon max. which is almost
double the 20 mpg I get at 1500'. With my ferry tank (18.4 gals) behind
me I was able to fly from Salem OR to Camarillo CA and back, thus able
to pay $1.95/gal vs $2.50 at Camarillo! Kevin Portland OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Gary Liming wrote:
>
> I have a TC-001 Turn and bank indicator. On the back it is marked
> 1-POS 2-GND 3-NOT USED.
>
> The pins of the connector are unmarked. Look at the instrument from the
> back (facing aft as it is mounted in the A/C) the pins are in a triangle,
> two long the top, and one on the bottom. Could someone tell me which pin
> is 1, 2, and three? I sure don't want to hook it up backward.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Liming
>
Gary;
If you look VERY closely at the area at the base of the pins through a magnifying
glass you may find
that, in fact, the pins are labelled. In most cases these connectors have identifying
legends
moulded in or etched adjacent to each pin. Very tiny sometimes, and very hard to
read, but usually
present.
Good luck,
--
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | ELT Antenna Location |
The New RV-List Archive Web Search Engine
-------
Here is a copy of a message from the archives that speaks to where the
ELT antenna must be located.
.... that TSO on the new ELT requirements is TSO C-91a. Among other
things it
tightened the requirement for activation at lower G-forces, called for a
remote annunciator, and an EXTERNAL antenna. As I recall it, you could,
as
you indicated you are able to, continue to use the older version made
under
TSO C-91 until such time as it fails. Then a replacement must meet the
new
requirements of TSO C-91Aa.
=0C
End Msg: #79
---
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
---
-------
Return to the Matronics Email List Homepages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
There has to something else going on here. Problems at the static
port could lead to errors in the sensed static pressure, which would
lead to errors in the airspeed indication and altimeter. But, in
level flight at a constant airspeed the sensed static pressure,
although in error, would be constant, so the VSI would be constant.
So, there is definitely something else going on, but darned if I know
what. Other listers reported similar problems caused by a defective
VSI. It might be interesting to try installing a VSI that works
properly in another aircraft. That would help focus the search for
the problem.
Kevin Horton
>
> First guess is you're static ports are not quite in the right place on the
>fuselage. Try taping a small piece of .032 aluminum just in front of the
>ports and go flying again and see if that fixes it.
>
> Bob RV8-423 still working on fuselage. Will it ever end?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: VSI again
>
>
>ok listers,
>i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
>cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
>seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
>off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
>any thoughts?
>scott
>tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscibe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
I still think it's a leaking case or glass, as you no longer have the
differential between cabin and static port pressures.
Finn
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> ok listers,
> i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
> cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
> seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
> off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
> any thoughts?
> scott
> tampa
-------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: moving wings |
I hung mine from the rails on the walls. That of course requires the wing tips
still be off.
Finn
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
>
> I'm moving my RV6A project and am trying to decide how to package/protect
> the wings.
> I sent the note below to Van's and will see what they say, but are there
> others out there that have successfully moved RV wings by setting them in a
> trailer/truck leading edge down?
> How are the QB wings packaged for delivery?
>
> Thanks for your input, and here's the note with the details that I sent
> Van's asking about this:
>
> I'm prepping for the 3rd x-ctry u-haul move of my RV6A project due to
> another military move (this move completes first round trip for the tail
> section as I'm moving back into my house from 2 tours ago...). This is a
> ~2500 mile trip from Indiana to Washington state.
>
> My question is on moving the wings. Last time I moved them both
> horizontally w/ bottoms resting on foam padding. This time I'd like to
> stand them up vertical against the walls of the u-haul, resting them on the
> leading edges. Is there adequate strength in the leading edge to support
> the wing if I load and protect the wing as described below?
>
> Plan is to tape pillows along the length of leading edges (two body-length
> pillows per wing), then with padding on top & bottom sides of wing (thin
> foam b/w wing and trailer walls), set the wings leading edge down on 5" HD
> foam. The 5" foam would be 12 inch wide strips with a 5&1/2 foot length
> under the inboard 5&1/2 feet of the leading edge with another 15 inch long
> piece at the outboard end.
>
> If the leading edge down method is likely to damage the wings then I will
> find a way to do it horizontally again.
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Chris Hand
> RV-6A, #23559
> ckhand(at)kiva.net
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [With Good URL This Time!] Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
[Typo in the subscribe page URL last time - SORRY! -Matt]
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location |
As much as I hate reading legalese, I wanted to get all the details on this
issue.
1) TSO-C91a:
http://av-info.faa.gov/tso/Tsocur/C91a.doc
I could find positively no requirement for an antenna to be externally
mounted. All I see is that each component of the system must be marked with
the applicable TSO number. This TSO seems to be strictly about markings.
2) FAR Part 91.207 where you can see that you can't *newly* install a
TSO-C91 ELT:
http://www.rvproject.com/fars.jsp?part=91&search=c91#match1
It does mention that every 12 calendar months, part of the required
inspection is to inspect for "proper installation." Now, I don't know if
that means adherence to the letter to the product's installation
instructions, or whether "proper" is defined in some other place I haven't
seen yet...info on this would be helpful.
3) Here's a decent article on requirements and operation of ELTs:
http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/eltupdate.htm
This article mentions the differences between TSO-C91 and TSO-C91a
ELTs...and it does mention:
- C91a ELTs have "a beefier mounting rack"
- C91a ELTs have better transmitters to prevent drifting off frequency
- C91a ELTs have a redesigned inertia (G) switch to lower false alarms
- C91a ELTs require a cabin-mounted annunciator panel
However...I can't figure out where this article gets its information. From
the manufacturers? I can't find any written regulations on this stuff. I
did my best to find a copy of the original TSO-C91 but couldn't find
it...perhaps the information is in there? Anyway, maybe a call to the FSDO
is in order?
I'm going to continue to assume that mounting an ELT antenna internally,
while possibly not optimal, is legal...at least until I hear or read
otherwise from a qualified source.
)_( Dan
dan @ rvproject . com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT Antenna Location
>
> The New RV-List Archive Web Search Engine
>
>
> -------
>
>
> Here is a copy of a message from the archives that speaks to where the
> ELT antenna must be located.
>
> .... that TSO on the new ELT requirements is TSO C-91a. Among other
> things it
> tightened the requirement for activation at lower G-forces, called for a
> remote annunciator, and an EXTERNAL antenna. As I recall it, you could,
> as
> you indicated you are able to, continue to use the older version made
> under
> TSO C-91 until such time as it fails. Then a replacement must meet the
> new
> requirements of TSO C-91Aa.
>
>
> =0C
> End Msg: #79
>
>
> ---
>
> -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
> ---
>
>
> -------
> Return to the Matronics Email List Homepages
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/5/2002 9:39:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gary(at)liming.org
writes:
> I have a TC-001 Turn and bank indicator. On the back it is marked
> 1-POS 2-GND 3-NOT USED.
>
> The pins of the connector are unmarked. Look at the instrument from the
> back (facing aft as it is mounted in the A/C) the pins are in a triangle,
> two long the top, and one on the bottom. Could someone tell me which pin
> is 1, 2, and three? I sure don't want to hook it up backward.
>
Gary-
It's actually stranger yet. Both the TC connector and the mate are
MIL-C-5015 series connectors used since Christ was a corporal and that insert
arrangement has contacts designated A, B and C. All military connectors are
required to have non-ambiguous contact markings.
For this specification, these markings should be molded into the thermoset
plastic (DAP) dielectric of the connector on both the front and back faces as
raised characters. A is +, B is - and C is unused. Look under magnification
and you should be able to make them out.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 533hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thread locker and plexiglas |
In a message dated 7/5/2002 6:49:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pblake(at)epix.net
writes:
> I'm looking for a thread locker for use on the screws I'm using to mount my
> canopy - I know from experience and the archives that Loctite is a no-no
> around plastics. I saw a reference to a thread locker called Vibritite,
> which they claim is not anaerobic product and can be used on plastic. Do
> any of you have experience with plexi-compatible thread lockers?
Vibra-Tite does work well in some applications . It is a red/orange
fluorescent dyed acrylic resin with I believe a Ketone solvent in it.
Contrary to the Loctite threadlockers that are applied wet, assembled and
then cure in the absence of oxygen, Vibra-Tite is applied to the fastener and
allowed to flash off the solvent, then assembled. It probably would work
very well on the canopy but not in a high heat area.
It is available from fastener supply houses such as Olander.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location |
>
>As much as I hate reading legalese, I wanted to get all the details on this
>issue.
>
>1) TSO-C91a:
>
> http://av-info.faa.gov/tso/Tsocur/C91a.doc
>
>I could find positively no requirement for an antenna to be externally
>mounted. All I see is that each component of the system must be marked with
>the applicable TSO number. This TSO seems to be strictly about markings.
>
The TSO simply references an RTCA document which contains most of the
requirements. "New models of emergency locator transmitter equipment
that are to be so identified and that are manufactured on or after
the date of this TSO must meet the standards set forth in Radio
Technical Commission for Aeronautics (RTCA) Document No. DO-183,
"Minimum Operational Performance Standards for Emergency Locator
Transmitters; Automatic Fixed - ELT (AF), Automatic Port able - ELT
(AP), Automatic Deployable - ELT (AD), Survival - ELT (S); Operating
on 121.5 and 243.0 Megahertz," Section 2.0, dated May 13, 1983."
So, to get the complete story we need to find RTCA DO-183. RTCA
sells their documents, so I doubt we'll find a copy on the web.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: moving wings |
You got a U-Haul truck to fly ?
Van's guys packed my QBs partially complete wings on moving
pads, leading edge down and strapped to the side of the
UHaul truck. The wings are sturdy. And, it flies beautifully!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
do not achhive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
I am contemplating adding a smoke system to my RV6.Question? What flow
of oil is needed to produce a good smoke trail?
I also am thinking of installing my front top foreword skin with
riv-nuts to have access to stuff under panel. Has anyone
been-there-done-that?
Sincerely:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Pictures of my paint job |
I finally got a chance to post the pictures of the paint work on my
RV-8. Comments are welcome.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
doyal plute wrote:
>
>
> I am contemplating adding a smoke system to my RV6.Question? What flow
> of oil is needed to produce a good smoke trail?
> I also am thinking of installing my front top foreword skin with
> riv-nuts to have access to stuff under panel. Has anyone
> been-there-done-that?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal
>
A friend's air show Swift had a 337 approved system
consisting of a 5 gal metal outboard motor fuel tank & Holly
electric fuel pump strapped behind the seats feeding a
nozzle welded into the exhaust.
For a far less expensive approach, see
http://www.kcdawnpatrol.org/smoke.htm
The rest of this site is pretty interesting as well, if you
aren't familiar with the Dawn Patrol guys.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Leading Edge Skins |
Needs some opinions :> )
I'm the third owner of my RV-4 wing kit. I pulled out the leading edge
skins and found a slight wrinkle
in both of the skins and as always, on the top surface of both. These
are very slight but noticeable.
Anybody have any good ideas on how to remove these, if possible? These
skins are probably about
$100 a piece and I hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
>
>
I am assuming that if I remove this plate that there will be a
threaded hole underneath? Do I just use a normal
> pipe to tube fitting and run a 1/4" hose to a manifold pressure sensor
> mounted on the firewall?
***************************************************
I think the MP is taken off the number 3 jug . I put my transducer from
Van's on the 668 sub panel.
It goes full scale when I key the mic. one of these days I plain to fix
it.
**************************************************
> I have been looking and I don't find any information on mounting the
> fly wheel. Do I pull the plugs, rotate no. 1 to TDC, then mount the
> starter ring aligned with some mark? I am assuming that there is some
> procedure, otherwise how could the timing ever be checked with a
timing light?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
*************************************************
the number one crankpin on the crankshaft lines up with the stepped
bushing in the flange.
so at TDC for #1, the larger hole in the flywheel will be at your 9
0'clock facing the engine.
Lycomings vary from none( I have heard) to two ways of marking the
flywhell.
On the rear of the flywheel at the top that lines up with the case split
and
on the front that lines up with a little hole on the starter about you 4
o'clock.
Mine has bolth & show the 0 & 25 degrees.
Check your number of teeth that needs to go with the gear on the starter.
When you install the mags, bring her up to the 25 degree advance mark.
Then the impluse will retard the timing to zero for starting & let it run
at approximently 25 degrees BTDC.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A
Arlington, Tx
*******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Scott,
this may be late as I'm catching up on the list but the VSI works upon a
calibrated leak from static to changing static inside the unit. If that leak
is plugged inside you'ld get that response. If it was hooked to Pitot you
get vsi changes with airspeed changes.
If static was plugged you'ld get zero vsi, fixed alt and asi would vary with
altitude as well as airspeed.
the cracked case could do it as well as the pressure in a RV cockpit is not
very stable.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
wheeler
i verified today that the static line is connected correctly, i blew and
sucked though both ports, no restriction either way. blocked off on side and
blew through it good pressure to the gauges. but it shows zero on the ground
and 1000 ft decent while flying. with it diconnected, it works fine, but the
other static/pitot gauges are off since i didn't block the vsi connector. i'm
at a lost.
scott
tampa
flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
>
> wheeler
> i verified today that the static line is connected correctly, i blew and
> sucked though both ports, no restriction either way. blocked off on side
and
> blew through it good pressure to the gauges. but it shows zero on the
ground
> and 1000 ft decent while flying. with it diconnected, it works fine, but
the
> other static/pitot gauges are off since i didn't block the vsi connector.
i'm
> at a lost.
> scott
> tampa
> flying
>
Scott, I had the same symptoms with my VSI when I first flew. I also messed
around with static system only to find out (finally) that the VSI case was
cracked. If you have checked everything else a cracked case may be the
problem.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Scott,
your case is cracked or leaking.
By disconnecting from Static you are no longer measuring the difference
between static and cabin, which is what you measure when the case leaks.
VSI's use only static measured against "slow" static through a very small
calibrated leak. Your case leak is causing it to read cabin on one side and
static on the other. By disconnecting it you are reading cabin against "semi
slow" cabin and you may have also possibly affected ASI and Alt if you
didn't plug the static line from the VSI.
To test this do a static system test on the VSI. Use a long piece of clear
hose with a two or three foot low spot in it. Fill the low spot part way
with water, but not enough to go into the VSI, just enough to make a
manometer. Hook one end up to the VSI and when you lift the open end of the
hose, pressure should build as the water tries to move down the hose. The
VSI should read a rise then return to 0 and the water should NOT reach an
equal level. If the case is leaking the water will equalize. Again use a
long enough hose to not get any water in the VSI.
Using the lips blowing on the inlet technique can break its little heart, so
avoid it.
w
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat/Alternate Source.... |
Kurt... I bought a carb heat muff from Rick Robbins...
You can contact Rick at 303-422-9389...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/finish118.jpg
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/finish117.jpg
-Bill
----Original Message Follows----
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat/Alternate Source....
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 14:00:55 -0400
Im wondering if anyone has used a carb heat air set up other than the small
alum. cylinder attachment and short 2" hose (sold by vans) going to the FAB?
Mainly want to get as much heat in there as possible given the increasing
number of carb heat related eng. problems in recent years. I dont have the
eng yet (Planning on O-360-A1A)..but would you be able to install a second
heat muff (robbins) on the opposite exhaust from the one for the cabin heat,
and route the scatt tube to the FAB? Just wondered if anyone has installed
a carb heat system this way or knows if this might be a viable
option...thanks...
Kurt OKC, OK
RV6A Finishing...
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Pictures of my paint job |
Could you post it to the photoshare? You are over dl quota so it is not
possible to view your url.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
Subject: RV-List: Pictures of my paint job
I finally got a chance to post the pictures of the paint work on my
RV-8. Comments are welcome.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
Scott--
Your VSI works "OK" when the static input is open to cockpit air but reads
1,000 ft descent when connected to the static line and flying S&L? The
airspeed indicator and altimeter are working correctly, as far as you can tell?
To get a negative VSI indication, the static system has to be showing an
increase in pressure at the static port(s) or in the static line. If you're
flying S&L the VSI should read "0". If the VSI case is cracked, there will be
no pressure differential and the VSI will also read "0" or with a slight lag
depending on the size of the leak. If you're getting leakage from the pitot
system into the static lines then your VSI will show negative when the plane is
in motion, unless your rate of climb is fast enough to offset the pitot
leakage.
Have you tried gently sucking/blowing on the static ports to see how all three
static instruments respond and then gently blow into the pitot tube to see if
the VSI or altimeter reacts along with the airspeed indicator? If you suck on
a static port (with the other one taped over) the VSI should show a positive
trend and the altimeter will show an increase. If you then block the static
port with your tongue (see Vince Frazier's web site for a humorous account of
this procedure) the VSI will go back to "0" (the VSI has a calibrated
restrictor "leak" inside the case which will gradually equalize pressure if
there is no pressure change from the static source--it will happen very fast if
there is a leak in the case of the VSI) and the altimeter should hold its
position for at least a minute. Now set the altimeter to some positive value
with the Kollsman knob and gently blow into the port. The VSI should show
negative and the altimeter will decrease. The airspeed indicator shold not
move if you're either sucking or blowing. Now gently blow into the pitot
tube. The airspeed indicator should increase but the VSI and altimeter should
stay put. If the VSI or the altimeter respond to the pitot "blow" then you've
got leakage.
This assumes that the VSI, itself, is working correctly as manufactured.
Hope this helps. Gotta get yo' a** flyin', gumbo boy.
Boyd.
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> ok listers,
> i disconnected the vsi from the static system and allowed it to breath
> cockpit air. it is working perfectly now. what gives? the airspeed indicator
> seems to read about 10mph higher which i would expect because i didn't block
> off the tube that used to go to the VSI.
> any thoughts?
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures of my paint job |
Pat,
I got the problem at my web site fixed...you should not have any problem
getting in now.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pictures of my paint job
>
> Could you post it to the photoshare? You are over dl quota so it is not
> possible to view your url.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
> To: RV-LIST
> Subject: RV-List: Pictures of my paint job
>
>
> I finally got a chance to post the pictures of the paint work on my
> RV-8. Comments are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50+ Hrs.
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> (570)842-4057
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat/Alternate Source.... |
In a message dated 7/6/2002 11:06:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)aol.com writes:
> I'm wondering if anyone has used a carb heat air set up other than the small
> alum. cylinder attachment and short 2" hose (sold by vans) going to the
> FAB? Mainly want to get as much heat in there as possible given the
> increasing number of carb heat related eng. problems in recent years.
IMO, the 2" hose is probably okay, but the small muff is somewhat inadequate
to keep you well out of trouble.
I had Rick Robbins make me an 8" long muff for the front crossover pipe. I
draw the incoming air from the warmer underside engine cooling air and it
seems to work fairly well with an engine rpm drop comparable to the mag check
with full carb heat application at runup. I can't give you any real world
numbers at this moment, but I think it is double the capacity of the Van's
version.
I do have a CAT gauge and have never seen the temp get below 5 deg C in the
presence of moisture. Negative only in very dry winter air. Both cases no
ice.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Typical airshow smoke systems pump 1/2 to 1 gallon/ minute. It makes a huge
mess of your airplane. Oil and sooty residue. Several different systems
will work, many use a boat gas tank, an RV pump, or an electric fuel pump(
not a clicker, a real rotary fuel pump) some use RV water pumps but the
seals tend to not like oil and fail. If you do not put a solenoid up near
the exhaust manifold you will not get good clean cut offs when you stop
smoking. and you can get exhaust in the hose. Put the nozzle about where
you would install an EGT probe, (couple inches from the flange.
Ask any performer, Smoke systems are a perpetual pain in the butt. BTW, did
I mention I sell smoke oil????
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Pink Panther (RV-4) for sale....
----- Original Message -----
From: "doyal plute" <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: RV-List: smoke
>
> I am contemplating adding a smoke system to my RV6.Question? What flow
> of oil is needed to produce a good smoke trail?
> I also am thinking of installing my front top foreword skin with
> riv-nuts to have access to stuff under panel. Has anyone
> been-there-done-that?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | spreadsheet to convert airspeeds |
Someone asked awhile back if there was a spreadsheet to convert
between IAS and TAS. It seemed that there wasn't one online, so I
finally sat down and cranked one out. It is an Excel spreadsheet,
zipped, found at:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip
It was produced fairly quickly, so I'm looking for any comments on format, etc.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | VideoCam'sInCockpit |
Has anyone done this ?
I want the real-time video to be available to both pilot and passenger in
Harmon Rocket (tandem) with selectable views. Probably a LCD in front and
back. Would involve mounting some lipstick cameras here and there on the
airframe, inside and out. Views I'm interested in are 1) taxi 2) wide angle shot forward from tail 3)
passenger monitor 4) instrument panel view
If a cam had joystick and wiggle room like an automobile mirror, the
back-seater could entertain onself with views every which way.
Where does one buy this stuff ? Little 12v cameras ? Must be a catalog.
I've seen it on display in Singapore...in fact bought a little 12v 4x4 LCD
there and ran it off my JVC video cam. Etc.
John Meyers Rocket 1/2 done, Golden, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Rauch <rbr(at)apcon.com> |
| Subject: | Extra Seat To Oshkosh |
I have an extra seat in my Seneca for the trip to Oshkosh. I am based in Aurora,
OR and am looking for someone to help with some conversation and company.
RV-8A Finish Kit
Richard Rauch
rbr(at)apcon.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I would not attempt to make that forward skin removable for several reasons:
1) with my engine hung, without the top skin on and with the side skins
clecoed to the upper longeron, I saw considerable deflection and bowing of
the side skins when the clecos were removed. I even had some clecos pop off
the longeron. That tells me there is a significant static load (let alone
flight loads) that will be born by the rivets holding that skin, i.e. it's a
significant structural member.
2) the skin goes under the windshield complicating removal.
3) assuming you meant nut plates instead of the pop-rivet type rivnuts (a
no-no for structure) you would need to mount them on the longeron. That
would entail 2 add'l rivet holes for each screw and an enlarged hole for the
screw vs rivet. That's a lot of additional holes in the primary structural
member of the aircraft and would make me real nervous.
4) I think it would be difficult to seal that skin-firewall-cowling joint
and make it removable.
That said, you could build access panels in the skin between the firewall
and subpanel. With appropriate doublers and structural fasteners you could
preserve the strength. But it's probably more useful to just make the panel
and radio stack removable instead.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - a size XXL RV-6A
>
> I am contemplating adding a smoke system to my RV6.Question? What flow
> of oil is needed to produce a good smoke trail?
> I also am thinking of installing my front top foreword skin with
> riv-nuts to have access to stuff under panel. Has anyone
> been-there-done-that?
> Sincerely:
> Doyal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VideoCam'sInCockpit |
>
>Has anyone done this ?
>
>I want the real-time video to be available to both pilot and passenger in
>Harmon Rocket (tandem) with selectable views. Probably a LCD in front and
>back. Would involve mounting some lipstick cameras here and there on the
>airframe, inside and out. Views I'm interested in are 1) taxi seeing immediately in front of nose> 2) wide angle shot forward from tail 3)
>passenger monitor 4) instrument panel view rear-seater can look at something up there>
>
>If a cam had joystick and wiggle room like an automobile mirror, the
>back-seater could entertain onself with views every which way.
>
>Where does one buy this stuff ? Little 12v cameras ? Must be a catalog.
>I've seen it on display in Singapore...in fact bought a little 12v 4x4 LCD
>there and ran it off my JVC video cam. Etc.
>
>John Meyers Rocket 1/2 done, Golden, CO
Probably start looking here
http://www.nutsvolts.com/
I had a subscription to this for several years. Had lots of small video
stuff advertised.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VideoCam'sInCockpit |
Michael McGee wrote:
> >I want the real-time video to be available to both pilot and passenger in
> >Harmon Rocket (tandem) with selectable views.
> >Where does one buy this stuff ?
Michael:
Try www.mcmelectronics.com. They sell many different models. I bought
a $50 monochrome camera there which I have found to be very useful as a
building aid. I use it to inspect the shop heads on rivets in otherwise
unaccessable places, guide a long drill bit when back drilling the wing
root fairings, etc. I thought about mounting a small camera looking
forward and down so I could see if another plane was below me on short
final. But it's hard to find a good display that's also very compact and
visible in daylight. I guess there are some, but they're expensive.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vinnfizz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | VideoCam'sInCockpit |
If you are interested in a little experimentation you may be able to cobble
something together with the X-Com systems. They have 12 volt remote cameras
etc. Display could be just about any type of video monitor.
Ed
C-140 flying
RV-8 hopeful
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregg" <gogators(at)arc.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Speed Question |
Looking for some comparisons to any of you who may have a similar RV-6
configuration. I believe mine is slow(er) by RV standards.
Here's relevant data:
RV-6, 967 lbs empty (no fuel, no oil)
Lycoming O-320-A1A, 150hp, 670 hours SMOH
Aymar Demuth wood prop
Old-style wheel pants (not the newer pressure recovery type)
Aluminium gear leg fairings
No wheel pant/gear leg or gear leg/fuselage intersection fairings
"dirty" ram air-scoop/cowl interface - about a 0.25 inch gap
2 inch temp probe sticking out the side of the fuselage
Ailerons and flaps do not appear to be dragging
no adverse rudder trim required
cowl/air-intake not as clean as others I've seen, but not far away from
ordinary
Typical performance data based on many cross country runs, and specific
flights to gather airspeed data:
Altimeter - 30.05 in Hg
OAT - 59 degrees Farenheit (15 deg C)
Altitude - 8500 ft
Full Throttle
RPM - 2520 rpm
MP - 22 in Hg
Indicated Airspeed - 128 KIAS (147 mph)
Density Altitude - 10,257 ft
Pressure Altitude - 8379 ft
While these numbers are from one flight, they are consistent with many
other flights, 4-legged GPS data runs, etc.
Observations:
- True airspeed is typically in the 147 - 149 KTAS (169 - 171 mph)
- the prop is overpitched, only gettting about 72% power out of the
configuration
I am in the process of fairing the ram air scoop, building wheel pant
intersection fairings, and the temp probe has been removed, but I
haven't flown it yet because the fiberglass is still setting up. Is
this typical, or is there something I've missed to pick up more speed?
Gregg Costabile
N96AN, flying
RV-7 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Speed Question |
Gregg wrote:
>
> Looking for some comparisons to any of you who may have a similar RV-6
> configuration. I believe mine is slow(er) by RV standards.
>
> Here's relevant data:
>
> RV-6, 967 lbs empty (no fuel, no oil)
> Lycoming O-320-A1A, 150hp, 670 hours SMOH
> Aymar Demuth wood prop
> Old-style wheel pants (not the newer pressure recovery type)
> Aluminium gear leg fairings
> No wheel pant/gear leg or gear leg/fuselage intersection fairings
> "dirty" ram air-scoop/cowl interface - about a 0.25 inch gap
> 2 inch temp probe sticking out the side of the fuselage
> Ailerons and flaps do not appear to be dragging
> no adverse rudder trim required
> cowl/air-intake not as clean as others I've seen, but not far away from
> ordinary
>
> Typical performance data based on many cross country runs, and specific
> flights to gather airspeed data:
>
> Altimeter - 30.05 in Hg
> OAT - 59 degrees Farenheit (15 deg C)
> Altitude - 8500 ft
> Full Throttle
> RPM - 2520 rpm
> MP - 22 in Hg
> Indicated Airspeed - 128 KIAS (147 mph)
> Density Altitude - 10,257 ft
> Pressure Altitude - 8379 ft
>
> While these numbers are from one flight, they are consistent with many
> other flights, 4-legged GPS data runs, etc.
>
> Observations:
> - True airspeed is typically in the 147 - 149 KTAS (169 - 171 mph)
> - the prop is overpitched, only gettting about 72% power out of the
> configuration
>
> I am in the process of fairing the ram air scoop, building wheel pant
> intersection fairings, and the temp probe has been removed, but I
> haven't flown it yet because the fiberglass is still setting up. Is
> this typical, or is there something I've missed to pick up more speed?
>
> Gregg Costabile
> N96AN, flying
> RV-7 empennage
>
You cannot start asking for comparisons tell you get all your fairing
work done. With no fairings and the engine and prop you have sounds like
you are doing ok for speed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VideoCam'sInCockpit |
>
>Has anyone done this ?
>
>I want the real-time video to be available to both pilot and passenger in
>Harmon Rocket (tandem) with selectable views. Probably a LCD in front and
>back. Would involve mounting some lipstick cameras here and there on the
>airframe, inside and out.
I'm doing this in mine. I have made wing mounts for each wing and the
tail, I plan on a solid state monitor and jacks for a video camrecorder on
the panel with a camera select switch. I had good luck with the color
camera from Matco (www.matco.com)
Some pics of the camera mounts on www.liming.org/ch801/instrument12.jpg
and the wing mounts on www.liming.org/ch801/wings3.html
I've been looking around at some of the 4-5" monitors.
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Speed Question |
Gregg- I was amazed to see 5 kts increase when I put the new wheelpants on,
even without the intersection fairings. Actually, my wheelpants came from a
prototype mold and don't have the pressure recovery curve, they are
straight, but still the large, symmetric size. I have also reduced the
engine air opening to the size of the carb, 1 3/4", without any pressure
loss. I also installed sailplane gap seals on the empennage, although that
difference was hard to measure. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy fairing |
I am ready to fiberglass the front of the canopy to the canopy frame (Tip-up).
Does the glass need to be "roughed up" with sand paper in the area
that will be in contact with the fiberglass. What grit, 180 or so?
Tommy Walker
6A Tipper
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy fairing |
ti tommy
i put the little clips to hold the plastic in place, as i didn't want to make
stress cracks on the plastic. see sam buchannon 's website for good pixs of
this install.
good luck
scott
tampa
RV6A 0360 C/S
FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Patty Gillies ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Patty Gillies
Subject: Fuel Selector Plate (labeling)
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gillies-patty@sc.edu.07.07.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Labeling |
For those who haven't bought a fuel selector yet, you might want to note
that the Andair valve includes a very good looking labeling plate in
thier price.
http://www.andair.co.uk/
This valve is way more expensive than Van's but a surprising number of
completed RV's are sporting them. (mine will)
Does Van still include the fuel selector valve in the finishing kit? If
so you can get a discount by asking for it to be removed when you order
your kit.
FYI - you can ask for any component to be removed from your kit when you
place your order and Van will reduce your price by the amount of that
part. For example I got my finishing kit without a cowl to leave me the
option of going with the reputedly faster Sam James cowl (no website).
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Flap Speeds |
Can I start to bring in the flaps above the white arc? If so, what speeds
are you using for 10,20,& 30 degree flap positions?
If at all possible, I would prefer slowing the plane down partially with the
flaps rather than having to bring the engine power way back. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442e
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Flap Speeds |
>
>
>
>Can I start to bring in the flaps above the white arc? If so, what speeds
>are you using for 10,20,& 30 degree flap positions?
>
>If at all possible, I would prefer slowing the plane down partially with the
>flaps rather than having to bring the engine power way back. Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>N442e
>
This is a question better put to the engineers at Van's. They are
the ones who know what loads the flap system was designed to handle,
and what the aerodynamic loads are at various flap angles and speeds.
All the folks on this list would just be guessing.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Flap Speeds |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>Can I start to bring in the flaps above the white arc? If so, what speeds
>>are you using for 10,20,& 30 degree flap positions?
>>
>>If at all possible, I would prefer slowing the plane down partially with the
>>flaps rather than having to bring the engine power way back. Any thoughts?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Glenn Gordon
>>N442e
>>
>>
>>
>
>This is a question better put to the engineers at Van's. They are
>the ones who know what loads the flap system was designed to handle,
>and what the aerodynamic loads are at various flap angles and speeds.
>All the folks on this list would just be guessing.
>
>
And I well say without guessing don't do it. You don't need to use flaps
to slow down above the
white arc. You do have to learn to plan ahead. The flap speeds are
published for a reason and that
includes a safety margin. Just wondering why would you not want to bring
engine power back?
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: painting canopy |
people that have painted the plastic canopy part that is aboue the front
sliding frame,has any one had a problem with the canopy cracking or crazing
because of this,will be using the sherwin williams evercoat urathane paint
to do this and to paint the rear skirt,very close to the jetglo paint of
theirs,would like to hear from others on this before doing this, thanks
frank goggio fayetetteville nc rv6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VideoCam'sInCockpit |
There was a really nice install done on a velocity.
http://www.rguerra.com/velocity/
look for the link to the wing cam...
Bob Hassel
Bob Hassel
bob.hassel(at)directlink.net
Email: bob.hassel(at)genuity.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vinnfizz(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: VideoCam'sInCockpit
If you are interested in a little experimentation you may be able to cobble
something together with the X-Com systems. They have 12 volt remote cameras
etc. Display could be just about any type of video monitor.
Ed
C-140 flying
RV-8 hopeful
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bug Cleaners, Fly-ins, and a Politician |
I needed to wash the plane this weekend. I was going to a couple of fly-ins,
and wanted to knock a month's worth of bugs off. With this in mind, I was at
the local Walmart buying some random items, and happened upon a huge stack of
windshield washer fluid @ $1.98/gallon. "Dissolves and Removes Bugs and Road
Grime" said the label. A light went on in my head and I threw a gallon in
the cart.
The next morning, I filled my 24 ounce squirt bottle with it, and went at the
airplane. A good squirt on the leading edges, prop, etc, a little scrubbing,
a rinse with a hose, and the bugs were gone. Much easier than with soap and
water, and every bit as good as the "aircraft bug remover" I've purchased for
$8.00 a quart. I didn't try it on the Plexiglas, not knowing what the
results would be, but I heartily recommend it for bug removal on painted
surfaces.
Following the wash job, I flew over to the Cracker Fly-in at Gainesville, GA,
where I was met by a very pleasant and attractive greeter named Pam. Before
I could ask for her phone number, I was sidetracked by a group of RV builders
and people considering building RV's. I enjoyed talking with the airplane
folks, but I really need to work on my priorities...
After baking in the sun for a couple of hours, it was off to a fly-in at a
grass strip owned by Cary Rhodes. Cary is a local RV-7 builder. He has a
~2,000 x 40 foot strip, with one (good) way in and out and about 1600' really
usable. Since it was so hot outside (upper 90's) and my car air conditioner
needed the work, I drove to Cary's strip, and suffered many insults from my
friends who flew in. They accused me of not trusting my flying skills. I
asked them to stand downwind while they teased me.
When I got there, there were 30-40 aircraft, primarily of the Cub, Champ,
Taylorcraft, Maule, and ultralight variety. There was a nice RV-4 which was
built/flown by Henry Herring. I wouldn't have believed it possible, but two
guys did a very smooth and tight formation landing in a C-172 and a Maule.
Pretty impressive on a 40' x 1600' strip. In addition to the airplanes,
there were probably 200 people including the band, the people swimming in the
pool, and the local Congressman - Bob Barr.
After a while, a group of us gathered under a big tent to grade the landings
of arriving aircraft. Since it was literally 100F in the shade, everyone was
in shorts and other appropriate garb for the day's Death Valley like
conditions. Except, that is, the Congressman, who walked over to us,
resplendent in his suit, complete with wingtips and cuffed pants.
After a few pleasantries, someone asked if he wanted a plane ride. He said he
only had a few minutes, but he'd love a ride. Well, we couldn't disappoint a
Congressman, could we? In mere seconds, he found himself strapped into an
ex-Italian airforce Super Cub owned and piloted by someone he'd never seen
before in his life. His assistant got several good pictures of the event.
Twenty minutes later, the Super Cub landed and discharged a somewhat sweaty
Congressman, who enjoyed his flight thoroughly (according to the pilot, who
has an RV-7 in his future).
After the Congressman left, we did a thorough debrief with the Cub pilot:
Did you spin, roll, or loop him? No.
Did you use your one on one audience with the Congressman to point out how
the private aviator is getting abused these days? No.
Since you own a construction business, did you get yourself lined up to put
new siding on the White House or Capital? No.
In the end, we concluded that if you're running for reelection and attend a
grass roots fly-in, you MUST go flying with a total stranger. Somewhat like
kissing babies, but with a more serious downside...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Speed Question |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Gregg, I would say you are right on with your mensuration.
Mr. Van Grunsven says a 150 HP six will cruise at 187 MPH with 75% power at
8,000 feet, and 169 with 55%. Extrapolating those values to 72% would yield
185 for 72% power. I would WAG that you are achieving less than 72% and
quite possibly less than 70% of 150 considering the non optimum prop, and
with a temp correction on the power..
If you are missing the cuff fairings as well as the old style pants and leg
fairings, then I would say that you are missing about 12 to 15 MPH there
also.
By sheer coincidence I returned yesterday from a x country in my 6A which I
flew at around 55% power and got 180 MPH TAS, which is about average for the
summertime for my plane. 55% of my 180 is close to 70% of a 150. Therefore
I predict you should achieve Van's advertised 187 MPH on a cooler day, at
8,000 density altitude and with the best fairings. What's nice about that
lower power is the consumption which is 7GPH. I flew 3+59 going East and
landed with 8 gallons.
Let us know how you do.
Denis
> From: "Gregg" <gogators(at)arc.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:18:14 -0500
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Speed Question
>
>
> Looking for some comparisons to any of you who may have a similar RV-6
> configuration. I believe mine is slow(er) by RV standards.
>
> Here's relevant data:
>
> RV-6, 967 lbs empty (no fuel, no oil)
> Lycoming O-320-A1A, 150hp, 670 hours SMOH
> Aymar Demuth wood prop
> Old-style wheel pants (not the newer pressure recovery type)
> Aluminium gear leg fairings
> No wheel pant/gear leg or gear leg/fuselage intersection fairings
> "dirty" ram air-scoop/cowl interface - about a 0.25 inch gap
> 2 inch temp probe sticking out the side of the fuselage
> Ailerons and flaps do not appear to be dragging
> no adverse rudder trim required
> cowl/air-intake not as clean as others I've seen, but not far away from
> ordinary
>
> Typical performance data based on many cross country runs, and specific
> flights to gather airspeed data:
>
> Altimeter - 30.05 in Hg
> OAT - 59 degrees Farenheit (15 deg C)
> Altitude - 8500 ft
> Full Throttle
> RPM - 2520 rpm
> MP - 22 in Hg
> Indicated Airspeed - 128 KIAS (147 mph)
> Density Altitude - 10,257 ft
> Pressure Altitude - 8379 ft
>
> While these numbers are from one flight, they are consistent with many
> other flights, 4-legged GPS data runs, etc.
>
> Observations:
> - True airspeed is typically in the 147 - 149 KTAS (169 - 171 mph)
> - the prop is overpitched, only gettting about 72% power out of the
> configuration
>
> I am in the process of fairing the ram air scoop, building wheel pant
> intersection fairings, and the temp probe has been removed, but I
> haven't flown it yet because the fiberglass is still setting up. Is
> this typical, or is there something I've missed to pick up more speed?
>
> Gregg Costabile
> N96AN, flying
> RV-7 empennage
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bug Cleaners, Fly-ins, and a Politician |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I needed to wash the plane this weekend. I was going to a couple of fly-ins,
> and wanted to knock a month's worth of bugs off. With this in mind, I was at
> the local Walmart buying some random items, and happened upon a huge stack of
> windshield washer fluid @ $1.98/gallon. "Dissolves and Removes Bugs and Road
> Grime" said the label. A light went on in my head and I threw a gallon in
> the cart.
>
> The next morning, I filled my 24 ounce squirt bottle with it, and went at the
> airplane. A good squirt on the leading edges, prop, etc, a little scrubbing,
> a rinse with a hose, and the bugs were gone. Much easier than with soap and
> water, and every bit as good as the "aircraft bug remover" I've purchased for
> $8.00 a quart. I didn't try it on the Plexiglas, not knowing what the
> results would be, but I heartily recommend it for bug removal on painted
> surfaces.
-----------------------------------
I've been using windshield washer fluid for bug removal on the painted
part of the plane for a couple years now; I haven't seen any adverse
impact on the paint. I don't even use the hose rinse, just spray the
cleaner on the wing leading edges, cowl, and gear fairings, then wipe
dry with a cotton cloth (or a blue paper towel in a pinch). The active
ingredient seems to be a low grade alcohol.
As Kyle advised, I would not use it on plexi.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I have the dual mag on my IO-360 (RV8A). Kinda wonder how much redundancy
that dual mag (with one drive) really gives me.
Would like to go electronic on one set of plugs.
Who knows about killing half of a dual mag? What are the best electronic
options?
Will appreciate any experience/knowledge on this subject.
Thanks.
Jimmy 8A--230 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Actuator Safety Wire |
I'm starting the installation of electric flaps on RV-7A.
Instructions say to drill a small hole at an angle through the actuator arm
for
securing of the safety wire. The actuator arm looks like hardened steel that
is going to be very difficult to drill through (even harder at an angle).
Any body made alternate arrangements for the safety wire?
Suggestions?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alison and Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Actuator Safety Wire |
It really wasn't that hard to drill, with my trusty air drill, once I tried
using a brand new sharp bit.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap Actuator Safety Wire
>
> I'm starting the installation of electric flaps on RV-7A.
> Instructions say to drill a small hole at an angle through the actuator
arm
> for
> securing of the safety wire. The actuator arm looks like hardened steel
that
> is going to be very difficult to drill through (even harder at an angle).
>
> Any body made alternate arrangements for the safety wire?
> Suggestions?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV-7A
> O-360 A1A
> Fuselage
> http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Speed Question |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Gregg" <gogators(at)arc.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Speed Question
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:18:14 -0500
Looking for some comparisons to any of you who may have a similar RV-6
configuration. I believe mine is slow(er) by RV standards.
Here's relevant data:
RV-6, 967 lbs empty (no fuel, no oil)
Lycoming O-320-A1A, 150hp, 670 hours SMOH
Aymar Demuth wood prop
Old-style wheel pants (not the newer pressure recovery type)
Aluminium gear leg fairings
No wheel pant/gear leg or gear leg/fuselage intersection fairings
"dirty" ram air-scoop/cowl interface - about a 0.25 inch gap
2 inch temp probe sticking out the side of the fuselage
Ailerons and flaps do not appear to be dragging
no adverse rudder trim required
cowl/air-intake not as clean as others I've seen, but not far away from
ordinary
Typical performance data based on many cross country runs, and specific
flights to gather airspeed data:
Altimeter - 30.05 in Hg
OAT - 59 degrees Farenheit (15 deg C)
Altitude - 8500 ft
Full Throttle
RPM - 2520 rpm
MP - 22 in Hg
Indicated Airspeed - 128 KIAS (147 mph)
Density Altitude - 10,257 ft
Pressure Altitude - 8379 ft
While these numbers are from one flight, they are consistent with many
other flights, 4-legged GPS data runs, etc.
Observations:
- True airspeed is typically in the 147 - 149 KTAS (169 - 171 mph)
- the prop is overpitched, only gettting about 72% power out of the
configuration
I am in the process of fairing the ram air scoop, building wheel pant
intersection fairings, and the temp probe has been removed, but I
haven't flown it yet because the fiberglass is still setting up. Is
this typical, or is there something I've missed to pick up more speed?
Gregg Costabile
N96AN, flying
RV-7 empennage
Gregg:
Sounds correct to me. I did not see any speed change without the gear
interection fairings. If there is one, it is very hard to measure. Have
only flown with the 2 piece wheel pants. There is a good 8 knots speed
increase with them on.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,122.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust for sale |
I have a Snowline stainless exhaust, still in box for RV4. Never on engine.
It looks complete, with heat box, less hangers and flange gaskets. Will
take $300 + shipping.
FOr info: Twoaviators(at)lexcominc.net
Thanks,
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
not your typical Harley chrome shop....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV4-List: ALERT - GroupShield ticket number OA240_1026099217_SARAH_1 |
was generated
Hey Guys (&Gals),
I think someone out there's trying to "get" us. My system caught &
cleaned an email from this acepilot(at)win.bright.net
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: GroupShield for Exchange (SARAH) <NAIDRURYSARAH(at)lib.drury.edu>
Subject: RV4-List: ALERT - GroupShield ticket number
OA240_1026099217_SARAH_1 was generated
> Action Taken:
> The attachment was quarantined from the message and replaced with a text
> file informing the recipient of the action taken.
>
> To:
> rv4-list-admin(at)matronics.com
>
> From:
> acepilot
>
> Sent:
> 1194951808,29500977
>
> Subject:
> RV4-List: A good tool
>
> Attachment Details:-
>
> Attachment Name: top[1].exe
> File: top[1].exe
> Infected? Yes
> Repaired? No
> Blocked? No
> Deleted? No
> Virus Name: W32/Klez.h@MM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Flap Speeds - reducing airspeed quickly - |
In order to reduce speed with out loading the flaps or bringing the
power way back, try reducing power and climbing. I use this procedure to
slow down. A quick climb will get me into flap configuration speed very
quickly. With proper flight planning,I should not need to do this and my
instructor would chastize (me for doing this)....so he dosen't know I
practice this procedure and use it. This procedure works very well in my
old Bonanza and other fast, slippery aircraft. My cub, on the otherhand,
will SLOW down when the power is pulled so I don't climb to reduce
speed..
Can I start to bring in the flaps above the white arc? If so, what
speeds
are you using for 10,20,& 30 degree flap positions?
If at all possible, I would prefer slowing the plane down partially with
the
flaps rather than having to bring the engine power way back. Any
thoughts?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442e
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
I owned a motorcycle shop for 29 years. Aluminum is tough to do a long
lasting chrome job to. One of the best platers in the country, I think
is named "BROWNs" and they are down south (Kentucky? Virginia?).
You may want to consider polishing it and having it 'cleared'. I never
tried clear powder coat, but powder coat is tough.
Barry Pote RV9a
P M Condon wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV4-List: ALERT - GroupShield ticket number OA240_1026099217_SARAH_1 |
was generated
I'm only replying to this because I have expertise in the field (MCSE);
sorry if this is out of line, Matt. The klez virus is nasty because
when it infects a system it not only emails itself to all the addresses
it can find on the system, it also lies about where it came from -
making it exceedingly difficult to track. Chances are that 'acepilot'
does not have the virus but his address is found on a system that does.
The proper way to deal with viruses is 1)never open an unsolicited
attachment, 2)use anti-virus software to screen files you do open, and
3)report viruses to your Internet Service Provider. While the ISPs are
beginning to find #3 is a pain in the b**t, they have the best chance of
tracing a message back to its true origin.
In reference to #1, if your Mom sends you an email with an attachment,
it is prudent to email her back and ask if she really sent that. No
virus yet has the ability to respond to queries like that. If Mom says,
'I didn't send anything' then forward it to your ISP and delete it from
your system. The point is, don't trust the apparent sender; that name
in the 'from' field may be a lie. Also, be sure your email does not
open attachments automatically. True, you lose a lot of nice features
that way, but it's the safe thing to do. Sad that a few people out
there have to spoil it for us all.
Last comment: Judi and I put confirmation info in our messages to each
other when we send attachments. No virus is capable of doing that,
either. A typical note might be : 'Here's a photo I thought you'd like.
Just to confirm it's me; we saw Men In Black II last night.' With that,
I can tell it really was from her and can open the attachment without
having to track her down and asking. When in doubt, ask for
verification, though.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit: 10 days to move
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of C. Rabaut
Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV4-List: ALERT - GroupShield ticket number
OA240_1026099217_SARAH_1 was generated
Hey Guys (&Gals),
I think someone out there's trying to "get" us. My system caught &
cleaned an email from this acepilot(at)win.bright.net
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: GroupShield for Exchange (SARAH) <NAIDRURYSARAH(at)lib.drury.edu>
Subject: RV4-List: ALERT - GroupShield ticket number
OA240_1026099217_SARAH_1 was generated
> Action Taken:
> The attachment was quarantined from the message and replaced with a
text
> file informing the recipient of the action taken.
>
> To:
> rv4-list-admin(at)matronics.com
>
> From:
> acepilot
>
> Sent:
> 1194951808,29500977
>
> Subject:
> RV4-List: A good tool
>
> Attachment Details:-
>
> Attachment Name: top[1].exe
> File: top[1].exe
> Infected? Yes
> Repaired? No
> Blocked? No
> Deleted? No
> Virus Name: W32/Klez.h@MM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | mag/electronic ignition |
Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the redundancy
of two mags with one drive.
Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and adding
electronic?
What would be the best options??
Thanks.
Jimmy 8A--230 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Meetings |
Hi, gang --
For those of you new to the RV-8 community, we've had meetings each year
at Oshkosh of RV-8/8a builders -- and anyone else interested -- a couple
of times during the convention. We meet each other, put faces with the
names we've read about over the last few months and years, swap lies and
tips, and generally start the day with some new friendships. The
meetings are not exclusive to RV-8/8a builders, and are open to anyone
with an interest in meeting other RV-8 builders.
The gatherings are informal, and you're required to supply your own
coffee and doughnuts (since we can't seem to count on Bob Dimeo to
remember to bring them!), and have been held on Thursday and Sunday
mornings under a tree in the Theater in the Woods at around 9:00.
I don't mind hosting the meetings again, since there's not much to it
other than to bring a few old Sharpies and some nametags (yes, you have
to wear a name tag). However, if anybody out there has more grandiose
ideas or wants to take the bull by the horns and become the new
"moderator", let me know.
However it works out, it's a great time to meet those we've come to know
online and shake a few friendly hands. Let me know if I should plan
meetings or leave it up to someone else.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
That is a common set up for our airplanes. Many have the Jeff Rose
(Electroair) ignition and others have Laser, etc. Personally, I found that
the Electroair ignition is very straightforward and simple to install. It
starts very smooth, and saves about 1.5 Gallons/hour in cruise at altitude.
My vote goes for the Electroair. It is only about $800 and is well worth
it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <HillStw(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>
> Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
>
> I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the
redundancy
> of two mags with one drive.
>
> Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
>
> What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and adding
> electronic?
>
> What would be the best options??
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy 8A--230 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Flap actuator safety |
Yeah, Steve. I used Locktite.
Gary
_______
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap Actuator Safety Wire
I'm starting the installation of electric flaps on RV-7A.
Instructions say to drill a small hole at an angle through the actuator
arm
for
securing of the safety wire. The actuator arm looks like hardened steel
that
is going to be very difficult to drill through (even harder at an
angle).
Any body made alternate arrangements for the safety wire?
Suggestions?
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
O-360 A1A
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
Does anyone know if Jeff Rose is represented at OSH?
-Larry
--- Paul Besing wrote:
>
> That is a common set up for our airplanes. Many have the Jeff Rose
> (Electroair) ignition and others have Laser, etc. Personally, I found that
> the Electroair ignition is very straightforward and simple to install. It
> starts very smooth, and saves about 1.5 Gallons/hour in cruise at altitude.
>
> My vote goes for the Electroair. It is only about $800 and is well worth
> it.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HillStw(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>
>
> >
> > Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
> >
> > I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the
> redundancy
> > of two mags with one drive.
> >
> > Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
> >
> > What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and adding
> > electronic?
> >
> > What would be the best options??
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jimmy 8A--230 hours
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | "Emergency" Cell Phone Offer |
W while back there was a posting to the rv-list of a cell phone offer for a
phone for $59.95 with a $30 rebate, and service for 15 minutes for
$10/month. I just checked on this and it is only available in Texas, and
also the rebate has changed...too bad.
FWIW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a Harley
chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
>
> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
In a message dated 7/8/02 11:41:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lcbowen(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Does anyone know if Jeff Rose is represented at OSH?
-Larry >>
The Orndorffs sell his system. If you see them, they can tell you all about
it. Jeff himself doesnt' usually go to the shows. Probably the best way to
get information is to call Jeff directly. He's extremely polite and
informative on the telephone.
His number is in the yeller pages.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VideoCam'sInCockpit |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Are you dampening it for vibration? If so How. I've been pondering this
myself.
Cecil
>
> >
> >Has anyone done this ?
> >
> >I want the real-time video to be available to both pilot and
> passenger in
> >Harmon Rocket (tandem) with selectable views. Probably a LCD in
> front and
> >back. Would involve mounting some lipstick cameras here and there
> on the
> >airframe, inside and out.
>
> I'm doing this in mine. I have made wing mounts for each wing and
> the
> tail, I plan on a solid state monitor and jacks for a video
> camrecorder on
> the panel with a camera select switch. I had good luck with the
> color
> camera from Matco (www.matco.com)
>
> Some pics of the camera mounts on
> www.liming.org/ch801/instrument12.jpg
>
> and the wing mounts on www.liming.org/ch801/wings3.html
>
> I've been looking around at some of the 4-5" monitors.
>
> Gary Liming
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
I agree with Paul, it doesn't need to be an aviation shop; Especially since
a "chrome" spinner is considered "unauthorized" by the FAA whether it's on
an Experimental or not. Evidently they are concerned about safety of flight
is the spinner becomes "dechromed" in flight. They sure look great though,
and my guess is that the infraction is similar to using your cell phone in
flight or removing your mattress tags.
I know several people who own a chrome spinner and a polished spinner
(production aircraft). They put the polished spinner on the aircraft when
they take it in for annual because the IA won't sign off the aircraft as
airworthy with a Chromed spinner.
Keith Vasey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a Harley
chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
>
> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Flying Blind: Small Plane Accidents |
And you should read some of the opinion posts... grrrr
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit - 10 days to move
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Orear
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying Blind: Small Plane Accidents
Geeze!!
Just the title of the show, "Flying *BLIND*: Small Plane Accidents."
Ticks
me off! When is the media going to get it straight???
Gimme a Break!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
Just a hypothetical question...if you ran a combo of one traditional mag and
electronic to replace the other, wouldn't the timing of each typically be
slightly off? I wonder how combustion would get distributed in the jugs
with the sparks happening slightly offset? Might lessen cylinder life
somehow?
Just hypothetical.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: <HillStw(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>
> Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
>
> I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the
redundancy
> of two mags with one drive.
>
> Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
>
> What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and adding
> electronic?
>
> What would be the best options??
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy 8A--230 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
I'll give this one a shot...typically the electronic ignition will fire up
to 41 degrees BTDC while the mag always fires at 25 degress BTDC. The
electronic ignition provides a much hotter spark and provides a more
consistent burn pattern, pretty much nulifying the effect of the mag (which
in this case is only acting as a backup). You can try this by shutting off
your mag in flight, and note that there is very little, if any, change.
Shut off the electronic ignition though, and you will definitely notice the
change. On takeoff the electronic ignition is also firing at 25 degrees, it
is only when manifold pressure begins to decrease as you climb that the
electronic spark "advances" thus giving you more power and efficiency at the
higher altitudes.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Flying
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:54:35 -0700
>
>
>Just a hypothetical question...if you ran a combo of one traditional mag
>and
>electronic to replace the other, wouldn't the timing of each typically be
>slightly off? I wonder how combustion would get distributed in the jugs
>with the sparks happening slightly offset? Might lessen cylinder life
>somehow?
>
>Just hypothetical.
>
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <HillStw(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>
>
> >
> > Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
> >
> > I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the
>redundancy
> > of two mags with one drive.
> >
> > Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
> >
> > What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and adding
> > electronic?
> >
> > What would be the best options??
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jimmy 8A--230 hours
> >
> >
>
>
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs TT
0-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, Flying
0-360, Hartzell C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
I have a polished aluminum spinner from GBI (George & Becki Orndorff) on my
O360 C/S RV6. It is an exact replica of the stock fiberglass spinner so no
mods are necessary to the cowling. Polishes real nice with Mothers Metal
Polish.
Cash Copeland
Hayward, Ca
>
> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
Just my 2 cents about chromed aluminum parts in general. In a past life I
used to do annuals on GA aircraft, and as stated, no A&P should sign off a
chromed aluminum part. The reasons are quite simple. Aluminum cannot be
directly chromed, as chrome will only stick to ferrous metals. In order to
get chrome to stick to the aluminum parts, they must first be flashed with
copper, then chromed over that. This process inherently weakens the metal
from a metalurgical standpoint, hence the lack of aluminum "chromed" parts
on production aircraft.
Before someone starts flaming me, I'm only the messenger. IMHO, spinners
are fine, there is no reason not to chrome a spinner, other than cost. If I
wasn't so lazy, I'd polish mine, I've seen some beautiful jobs done on
spinners,
Overall, I say if you want chrome, do it!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, finishing wingtips and getting ready to paint.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Keith
Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc
Subject: RE: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
I agree with Paul, it doesn't need to be an aviation shop; Especially since
a "chrome" spinner is considered "unauthorized" by the FAA whether it's on
an Experimental or not. Evidently they are concerned about safety of flight
is the spinner becomes "dechromed" in flight. They sure look great though,
and my guess is that the infraction is similar to using your cell phone in
flight or removing your mattress tags.
I know several people who own a chrome spinner and a polished spinner
(production aircraft). They put the polished spinner on the aircraft when
they take it in for annual because the IA won't sign off the aircraft as
airworthy with a Chromed spinner.
Keith Vasey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
> experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a Harley
> chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
>
> >
> > I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> > they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> > not your typical Harley chrome shop....
> >
> >
>
Paul, actually chrome is not just chrome the process is different when
parts are to be used for aviation. If you are just speaking of chrome
over alum them maybe you are right but don't take any type of structural
part to just any chrome shop. I am speaking of parts like control stick
and rudder pedals etc.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bart's engines???? |
JR,
AERO SPORT POWER (BART LALONDE) 800-667-0522 250-376-2955
http://www.aerosportpower.com ENGINES FOR EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT
Installed mine last weekend - it is a work of art.
Dave Burnham
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bart's engines???? |
Aerosport power 250-376-2955 - www.aerosportpower.com
Wayne Petrus
RV8A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale! |
I was involved (passenger) with serious injury in a fatal RV-4 crash on May
15, in Jonesboro, Arkansas. The pilot some may know, was 72 yrs. old Bill
Nolan a former Osh judge.
Question: How do I find out if Bill had insurance on ME? I have mounting
medical bills, missed work since accident. Bill has no immediate family
members.
ALSO, I have completed tail kit and one wing nearly completed (prepunched),
with chrome heated pitot and spars phlogiston. I will sell wayyyyy cheap-make
offer. Contact me off list for serious offers only. I am too ill to play
games.
My fly days are done guys-at least for now!
BTW, The 150 HP engine quit at low/slow altitude. Bob Paulovich, Bryant,
Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale |
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale
>
> Along this note, I've Frey Steel Jig with "Bird-cage" option (holds the
> front and rear spar dimentions very accurate) for the RV-6, in Nashville
> TN. Delivery possible. Price negotiable. Asking $600.
> Marty in Brentwood TN.
Marty,
Do you have digital pics available on the Jig that you could email to me?
Thanks,
Konrad Werner
ABQ - NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: smoke |
Doyal,
I installed nut plates and screws on that front forward skin and I was
glad I did. According to Chris Heinz (Zenair University) one stainless
screw equals four rivets. I don't know much about smoke but hope I never
see any of that stuff trailing me.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Gear leg stiffeners |
Anybody recall the name/address of the guy who sells pre-fabbed gear leg
stiffeners for RV-6's? Phone number or e-mail address would be great.
Thanks much.
David Davenport
RV-6 N168DD
Finishing up details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale! |
Bob,
Sorry that you were injured, glad your still here to talk about it. I can
only tell you that the VanGuard Program did not insure Mr. Nolan. I did
quote him about 2.5 years ago, but he never bound coverage thru us.
My guess would be that either he was uninsured or he was insured by AVEMCO,
or AIG (considering he was over 70 years old, and neither of those companies
has an age limit). You would really be stabbing in the dark, by calling
those companies directly, though.
My recommendation would be to secure legal counsel for yourself, and let
them approach the Nolan family, or the counsel responsible for Mr. Nolan's
estate. Regardless of whether he was insured or not, I would think you
should recover from his estate for your medical expenses (at a minimum.)
You may also want to contact the FAA and the NTSB. I thought the NTSB
investigated all aviation deaths, but their site has no record of that crash
occuring. The FAA site only shows accidents in the last 10 days and is
extremely preliminary (not a lot of information).
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale!
I was involved (passenger) with serious injury in a fatal RV-4 crash on May
15, in Jonesboro, Arkansas. The pilot some may know, was 72 yrs. old Bill
Nolan a former Osh judge.
Question: How do I find out if Bill had insurance on ME? I have mounting
medical bills, missed work since accident. Bill has no immediate family
members.
ALSO, I have completed tail kit and one wing nearly completed (prepunched),
with chrome heated pitot and spars phlogiston. I will sell wayyyyy
cheap-make
offer. Contact me off list for serious offers only. I am too ill to play
games.
My fly days are done guys-at least for now!
BTW, The 150 HP engine quit at low/slow altitude. Bob Paulovich, Bryant,
Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: painting canopy |
I painted that part to match the airframe and it worked great. 2 years, and
no signs of any distress to the canopy. I thought it would probably get
scratched where it passes under the windscreen fairing, but there is no wear
at all. I used PPG Concept.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> people that have painted the plastic canopy part that is aboue the front
> sliding frame,has any one had a problem with the canopy cracking or
crazing
> because of this,will be using the sherwin williams evercoat urathane paint
> to do this and to paint the rear skirt,very close to the jetglo paint of
> theirs,would like to hear from others on this before doing this, thanks
> frank goggio fayetetteville nc rv6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Speed Question |
I think some of the responses missed the fact that you *do* have wheel pants
and gear leg fairings, just no intersection fairings. I found that the
intersection fairings made no measurable change in speed on mine.
It does seem that you're down a little on speed. One thing I notice is that
you're getting 3/4"-1" less MP than I do in that setting. I'm not sure what
your air intake setup is like, but it looks like you aren't getting the full
ram-air effect. That might be worth 2-3mph or so. I found that the
pressure recovery wheel pants also made about a 4-6mph difference over my
old style wheel pants. I get 188-191mph TAS (RV6A with 160hp) in your
scenario.
So, starting with my 190mph: You lose 2-3mph due to the 10hp deficit, but
make it back with 2-3mph gain (6 vs 6A). Minus 5mph for the old style wheel
pants, minus 2mph due to ram-air, maybe 2mph less efficiency with a wood
prop, and I would think you should see around 180mph TAS. I get 2560rpm out
of my Sensenich, with a wood prop you could re-pitch it to turn more RPM,
but at a higher fuel burn. Any idea what your fuel burn is? You may have a
low fuel burn that equates to the TAS you're getting. I'm burning 8-8.5gph
at these numbers.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Looking for some comparisons to any of you who may have a similar RV-6
> configuration. I believe mine is slow(er) by RV standards.
>
> Here's relevant data:
>
> RV-6, 967 lbs empty (no fuel, no oil)
> Lycoming O-320-A1A, 150hp, 670 hours SMOH
> Aymar Demuth wood prop
> Old-style wheel pants (not the newer pressure recovery type)
> Aluminium gear leg fairings
> No wheel pant/gear leg or gear leg/fuselage intersection fairings
> "dirty" ram air-scoop/cowl interface - about a 0.25 inch gap
> 2 inch temp probe sticking out the side of the fuselage
> Ailerons and flaps do not appear to be dragging
> no adverse rudder trim required
> cowl/air-intake not as clean as others I've seen, but not far away from
> ordinary
>
> Typical performance data based on many cross country runs, and specific
> flights to gather airspeed data:
>
> Altimeter - 30.05 in Hg
> OAT - 59 degrees Farenheit (15 deg C)
> Altitude - 8500 ft
> Full Throttle
> RPM - 2520 rpm
> MP - 22 in Hg
> Indicated Airspeed - 128 KIAS (147 mph)
> Density Altitude - 10,257 ft
> Pressure Altitude - 8379 ft
>
> While these numbers are from one flight, they are consistent with many
> other flights, 4-legged GPS data runs, etc.
>
> Observations:
> - True airspeed is typically in the 147 - 149 KTAS (169 - 171 mph)
> - the prop is overpitched, only gettting about 72% power out of the
> configuration
>
> I am in the process of fairing the ram air scoop, building wheel pant
> intersection fairings, and the temp probe has been removed, but I
> haven't flown it yet because the fiberglass is still setting up. Is
> this typical, or is there something I've missed to pick up more speed?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
DAVID DAVENPORT wrote:
>
>
> Anybody recall the name/address of the guy who sells pre-fabbed gear leg
> stiffeners for RV-6's? Phone number or e-mail address would be great.
> Thanks much.
>
> David Davenport
> RV-6 N168DD
> Finishing up details
>
Would this be the guy you are looking for?
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/turtlewooddesign/roger.htm
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | UPS SL-60 (Was Single Radio, Was used com radios) |
Tom,
I have a new, in the box, unused, SL-60 for sale. It includes the
antenna, installation brackets and hardware, etc. I ordered the SL-60
from Van's in March of 2001, so the warranty is good for another year. I
paid Van $2379 plus shipping. I am willing to sell for $2300, and I'll
gladly pay the shipping.
I decided to switch to an IFR approach capable GPS/Comm. I tried to
return the SL-60 to Van's, but they wouldn't accept it as it is (was)
a special order. Been procrastinating about putting it up for sale on
eBay and/or advertising it in the RVator.
If you are interested, contact me back channel for snail mail address
and phone number.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: RV-List: Single Radio - was used com radios
George:
I hadn't looked at the the UPSAT apollo series - always thought
they
were too expensive. I have to confess the SL60 is making me rethink my
radio configuration. I already have an old EC-10x GPS - the one with
the huge display - so I haven't been concerned with getting GPS into the
panel. But the SL60 seems to be nearly the same price as the KX-125
with lots more features. Maybe I should just rely on my hand-held
nav/com for back up and VOR function.
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question) |
First the fuel drain question...I installed the drain in my first fuel tank
by basically tightening the crap out of it. It still stands out more than I
would have expected:
http://www.rvproject.com/images/20020708_drain.jpg
Is this normal? I assume so, but let me know so I can sleep better. Ok,
now for the "DON'T DO THIS" column for the day.
I'm installing flop tubes in my tanks, and a few weeks ago I fabricated and
drilled the attach angle for my first tank. The plans didn't really say
much about the flop tube installation or where exactly to drill the six
rivet holes to attach the angle to the inboard rib. The plans just kind of
*suggest* where they should go. So I drilled 'em where it looked right, and
where it looked like there was good clearance and all that.
Well, today I went to actually rivet and seal the sucker on there, and check
out what I found:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020708.html
The rivets totally interfered with the flop tube fitting nut! Dang! Well,
I thought I was going to have to leave those holes and drill two new ones,
just filling the gaping holes with Proseal. That would suck. I'm sure it
would seal, but it would be ugly and lurking in the back of my mind.
But after a few minutes of cursing and brainstorming, I realized that I
could countersink those holes and use AN426AD4-7 flush head rivets in
there...and that's what I ended up doing. It all worked out, but the moral
of the story is:
TAKE CARE when drilling those rivet holes!!! Think before you drill!
Ok, enough from me...
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question) |
You could also have fabricated a washer to fit under the nut and raise
it above the rivet heads, but I like your method - very pretty.
As for the drain, it is correct. DON'T tap it out; you want the drain
to be the lowest point in your tank. If it protrudes into the tank, it
can allow a bubble of water to sit on the bottom, waiting to be sucked
into your fuel lines. Once the wing is in place, you will see that the
drains are in no danger of catching anything (though you might want to
remove them after pressure checking so that handling during assembly
does not damage them.) Onward through the fog!
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit - 10 days to move
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question)
First the fuel drain question...I installed the drain in my first fuel
tank
by basically tightening the crap out of it. It still stands out more
than I
would have expected:
http://www.rvproject.com/images/20020708_drain.jpg
Is this normal? I assume so, but let me know so I can sleep better.
Ok,
now for the "DON'T DO THIS" column for the day.
I'm installing flop tubes in my tanks, and a few weeks ago I fabricated
and
drilled the attach angle for my first tank. The plans didn't really say
much about the flop tube installation or where exactly to drill the six
rivet holes to attach the angle to the inboard rib. The plans just kind
of
*suggest* where they should go. So I drilled 'em where it looked right,
and
where it looked like there was good clearance and all that.
Well, today I went to actually rivet and seal the sucker on there, and
check
out what I found:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020708.html
The rivets totally interfered with the flop tube fitting nut! Dang!
Well,
I thought I was going to have to leave those holes and drill two new
ones,
just filling the gaping holes with Proseal. That would suck. I'm sure
it
would seal, but it would be ugly and lurking in the back of my mind.
But after a few minutes of cursing and brainstorming, I realized that I
could countersink those holes and use AN426AD4-7 flush head rivets in
there...and that's what I ended up doing. It all worked out, but the
moral
of the story is:
TAKE CARE when drilling those rivet holes!!! Think before you drill!
Ok, enough from me...
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
Barry,
The plating shop Mr. Condon refers to is indeed called Brown's Plating. They
are located in Paducah, Kentucky. I used to own a motorcycle shop. I built a fair
number of custom bikes for customers. Brown's is by FAR the best shop I ever
dealt with when you need parts chromed. They really know their business and
are very fair to deal with. They will re plate any part you are unhappy with.
They specialize in motorcycle parts. Don't tell em it's for an airplane!! Go
to:
http://www.brownsplating.com/
Charlie Kuss
covered in gray PPG Delta paint (painted fuselage stuff today)
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>I owned a motorcycle shop for 29 years. Aluminum is tough to do a long
>lasting chrome job to. One of the best platers in the country, I think
>is named "BROWNs" and they are down south (Kentucky? Virginia?).
>You may want to consider polishing it and having it 'cleared'. I never
>tried clear powder coat, but powder coat is tough.
>
>Barry Pote RV9a
>
>P M Condon wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
>> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
>> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop |
The problem involves "embrittlement" caused by the
> various chemicals used in the plating process. This changes the
characteristics of the aluminium (as
> you accuratly state) and may result in cracking. NOT good.
We are getting close here... The process is hydrogen embattlement
caused by the electroplating process. It can cause micro cracking which in
a stressed part can lead to serious cracking. If a chrome shop has the
facility and knows the application for the part they will bake the part in
an oven to remove the elemental hydrogen atoms. There are also plating
techniques that can reduce this in the first place. You can encounter the
same embattlement process when welding. Depending on the parts you are
working on it may be wise to use an aviation savvy facility. If you are
plating your valve covers the Harley shop may be just fine...
Dave Burton,
RV6, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
Charlie, I was the motorcycle guy referring Mr Condon to Browns. I never
used them, but knew they were good.
Barry
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Barry,
> The plating shop Mr. Condon refers to is indeed called Brown's Plating. They
are located in Paducah, Kentucky. I used to own a motorcycle shop. I built a
fair number of custom bikes for customers. Brown's is by FAR the best shop I
ever dealt with when you need parts chromed. They really know their business and
are very fair to deal with. They will re plate any part you are unhappy with.
They specialize in motorcycle parts. Don't tell em it's for an airplane!!
Go to:
> http://www.brownsplating.com/
>
> Charlie Kuss
> covered in gray PPG Delta paint (painted fuselage stuff today)
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >
> >I owned a motorcycle shop for 29 years. Aluminum is tough to do a long
> >lasting chrome job to. One of the best platers in the country, I think
> >is named "BROWNs" and they are down south (Kentucky? Virginia?).
> >You may want to consider polishing it and having it 'cleared'. I never
> >tried clear powder coat, but powder coat is tough.
> >
> >Barry Pote RV9a
> >
> >P M Condon wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> >> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> >> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question) |
>
>As for the drain, it is correct. DON'T tap it out; you want the drain
>to be the lowest point in your tank. If it protrudes into the tank, it
>can allow a bubble of water to sit on the bottom, waiting to be sucked
>into your fuel lines.
Even if you were to let it seat completely against the flange, it is
still the lowest part in the tank. I didn't get a picture before closing
it up, but the o-ring seat is well below the skin.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Taxation with penalty and interest!!!! Builder Beware in Illinois |
I received my N number last month (June) and the State
of Illinois sent me a request for registering my plane
to the Illinois Dept of Transportation. That cost is
$20 for two years. But they did not want it registered
until I receive the Airworthiness Certificate on the
plane. They told me to call the Dept of Revenue to
figure what my takes will be.
When I called their office and explained I had been
working on this kit for 8 years, they said I should
have been paying a use tax during the building
process.
A "USE TAX" I exclaimed!!! What is that? They said
that whenever I buy anything out of state and that
company does not charge a sales tax, that I was
suppose to turn around and send 6.25% whethin 30 days
of purchase.
I told them I had never heard of such a tax. Nobody
ever does that!!!
I was then told that their will be penalties and
interest assocated with all purchases that had not
been taxed. They also said that they could not go back
past 6 years to collect taxes and anything I bought
from an individual is also tax exempt. Also, anything
I bought in the State of Illinois would already have
been taxed and that is exempt.
That leaves out alot. I bought my wings and tail from
an individual. I bought my engine & prop from an
individual. I started my project 8 years ago buying a
lot of stuff up front which is now exempt. But that
leaves my fuselage and finish kit to deal with.
Maybe if I wait for another 4 years I won't have to
pay anything.
Dan DeNeal
Just wondering if finishing is a good idea!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mel Ewing <sniper_ewing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale! |
Bob,
I was just wondering if you still had the wing and
tail kit available. I will be honest and tell you up
front that I was putting pennies together for the tail
kit and have $1000 I can offer. If you have no offers,
or just want to sell it right now, let me know.
Thanks for your time, and I'm sorry about the
accident, but happy to hear you are still hear
talking!
Mel Ewing
--- Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I was involved (passenger) with serious injury in a
> fatal RV-4 crash on May
> 15, in Jonesboro, Arkansas. The pilot some may know,
> was 72 yrs. old Bill
> Nolan a former Osh judge.
> Question: How do I find out if Bill had insurance on
> ME? I have mounting
> medical bills, missed work since accident. Bill has
> no immediate family
> members.
> ALSO, I have completed tail kit and one wing nearly
> completed (prepunched),
> with chrome heated pitot and spars phlogiston. I
> will sell wayyyyy cheap-make
> offer. Contact me off list for serious offers only.
> I am too ill to play
> games.
> My fly days are done guys-at least for now!
> BTW, The 150 HP engine quit at low/slow altitude.
> Bob Paulovich, Bryant,
> Arkansas
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Guys and Girls
Just thought I would pass this along....I hope no one got caught.
Seems we have some kind of an A hole trying to suck us into a virus. I
got a message today from someone calling himself "acepilot" and the
subject made it look like a list message but there were attachments. I
did not open this but the attachments are a jpg file and a exe file both
called "top" (no quotes). I also got a message that appears to be from
Matts system admin (?) advising that the message was sent but they
stopped it (apparently didn't do a good job) and that the virus is
called - W32/Klez.H@m m. The two m's at the end are togeather but I
seperated them in this message.
Hope this helps.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale! |
Mel, Give me a call tomorrow 501.847.1967 after 12:00 noon. You just happen
to be the first mail I opened. Your offer is reasonable and I can throw in
some other things.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Actuator Safety Wire |
A small carbide-tipped burr (similar to a dentist's drill) in a Dremel
tool will go through about anything.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap Actuator Safety Wire
>
> I'm starting the installation of electric flaps on RV-7A.
> Instructions say to drill a small hole at an angle through the actuator
arm
> for
> securing of the safety wire. The actuator arm looks like hardened steel
that
> is going to be very difficult to drill through (even harder at an
angle).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pearlman <jsp(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: smoke |
Are you responding to the questio of an access port in the top of the panel?
If you did that successfully, do you have a drawing or picture?
jp
bill mosley wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "bill mosley"
>
> Doyal,
>
> I installed nut plates and screws on that front forward skin and I was
> glad I did. According to Chris Heinz (Zenair University) one stainless
> screw equals four rivets. I don't know much about smoke but hope I never
> see any of that stuff trailing me.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy fairing |
Tommy
There is no point in sanding the plexiglass, Not much will stick to it. You
might want to use silicon seal to ' gasket' the fiberglass - plexiglass
joint. This will bond the two together somewhat.
Bob Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LClark6372(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 07/07/02 |
would like to hear from anyone that has tried or has any experience with
with the ready made buss bar panels such as the exp2
jim clark
napa ca
rv 8 finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LClark6372(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/07/02 |
any one tried the ready made buss bar systems such as the exp2 ?
jim clark rv8
finishing kit
napa ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat/Alternate Source |
> Im wondering if anyone has used a carb heat air set up other than the
small
> alum. cylinder attachment and short 2" hose (sold by vans) going to the
FAB?
I hate to repeat the "check the archives" mantra, but there has been some
good (and not so good) discussion of this in the past, so its worth a look
there. Also check my site for pix of how I made a custom flange that closes
off the gaps where the scat tube goes into the airbox. Unfortunately I don't
have "before" numbers but I do have "after".
www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~375 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
In a message dated 7/8/2002 7:54:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> Personally, I found that
> the Electroair ignition is very straightforward and simple to install. It
> starts very smooth, and saves about 1.5 Gallons/hour in cruise at altitude.
Sorry, but I have to examine this statement a little closer. Assuming a 180
hp Lycoming producing 65% power (117 hp) and burning 8.2 gph, properly
leaned, that is a BSFC of 0.42 lbs/hp/hr and is what I typically see in my
application with two mags.
If we reduce that normal fuel consumption by 1.5 gph and we're still
producing the same hp (same rpm, same MP, same altitude) we suddenly have an
engine that has an incredible BSFC of 0.34 lbs/hp/hr, believe it or not.
Not.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
In a message dated 7/8/2002 9:38:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
> experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a
> Harley
> chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
Not hardly. A mil-spec shop is the only way to go. I believe in the general
prohibition against chrome plating (and other platings that are prone to
hydrogen embrittlement) when applied to structural parts, as the plating is
inherently shortening the life of the part. Even when the process is
followed immediately by baking it is dicey business. Only the good shops
control the entire process to the degree that the risks are minimized.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
How about just polishing the AL spinner? I guess how good it would look
would depend on the alloy, etc. but there are lots of polished AL planes out
there that look fabulous, and no plating involved.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~375 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bart's engines???? |
Wayne:
Is Bart Lalonde; Fax250-376-1995 Tel: 250-376-1223
NO 800 no.
2965 Airport Road
Kamloops, B.C. Canada, V2B 7w8
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question) |
Dan, I had exactly the same problem and fixed it buy putting a relief cut
on the nut itself. It worked great. You can chuck the nut in a drill press
by using a mandrel and using a file. Alternately, a belt sander would make
quick work of the those pesky points. In my case I used a small jewelers
lathe that I had hanging around the shop.
See it here http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/Tanks/DCP01658.JPG
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: DON'T DO THIS! (and a fuel drain question)
>
> First the fuel drain question...I installed the drain in my first fuel
tank
> by basically tightening the crap out of it. It still stands out more than
I
> would have expected:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/images/20020708_drain.jpg
>
> Is this normal? I assume so, but let me know so I can sleep better. Ok,
> now for the "DON'T DO THIS" column for the day.
>
> I'm installing flop tubes in my tanks, and a few weeks ago I fabricated
and
> drilled the attach angle for my first tank. The plans didn't really say
> much about the flop tube installation or where exactly to drill the six
> rivet holes to attach the angle to the inboard rib. The plans just kind
of
> *suggest* where they should go. So I drilled 'em where it looked right,
and
> where it looked like there was good clearance and all that.
>
> Well, today I went to actually rivet and seal the sucker on there, and
check
> out what I found:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20020708.html
>
> The rivets totally interfered with the flop tube fitting nut! Dang!
Well,
> I thought I was going to have to leave those holes and drill two new ones,
> just filling the gaping holes with Proseal. That would suck. I'm sure it
> would seal, but it would be ugly and lurking in the back of my mind.
>
> But after a few minutes of cursing and brainstorming, I realized that I
> could countersink those holes and use AN426AD4-7 flush head rivets in
> there...and that's what I ended up doing. It all worked out, but the
moral
> of the story is:
>
> TAKE CARE when drilling those rivet holes!!! Think before you drill!
>
> Ok, enough from me...
> )_( Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
I stand corrected then. I was not aware of the fatigue factor with chroming
parts. Randall had a good point, polished alluminum seems to be the way to
go, if metal fatigue from chroming is an issue.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2002 9:38:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
>
>
> > Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
> > experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a
> > Harley
> > chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
>
> Not hardly. A mil-spec shop is the only way to go. I believe in the
general
> prohibition against chrome plating (and other platings that are prone to
> hydrogen embrittlement) when applied to structural parts, as the plating
is
> inherently shortening the life of the part. Even when the process is
> followed immediately by baking it is dicey business. Only the good shops
> control the entire process to the degree that the risks are minimized.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Eng.monitor unit..Grand rapids.... |
Hi:
Any one that has installed the EIS monitor unit, from Grand rapids Tech,
maybe able to help with my question...
I would like to see, photo or schematic, exactly how are the two small
resistors, ( one is 27 other 39 I believe) the ones I have look the same to
me)
connected to the magnetos, and unit...
I started wiring the unit, instructions call to start with the Tach...
Do one solder these small units to a wire, then connect to mags?
Any help on this appreciated..
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Boy kids-
What a hatchet job was done to GA in that one hour. I was dumbfounded and I
just don't know what to say except good googly moogly have we got a PR
problem?
To get some reference point, it would have been beneficial to know how other
sporting pursuits (boating, hunting, four-wheeling, football, soccer,
bicycling, surfing, kayaking, strength training, mountain climbing, etc.)
measure up as far as injury numbers? I thought we had highway deaths of
40,000/yr. This is a big country and the injury rate stated for GA just
doesn't strike me right away as that high.
I do suppose that if we all just stayed home, sat on the couch and watched
TV, like they seem to want us to, we could all just die peacefully of blood
clots or hardening of the arteries.
Rant off.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Meetings |
Oh, NOW he wants Coffee!!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don McNamara
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Meetings
Hi, gang --
For those of you new to the RV-8 community, we've had meetings each year
at Oshkosh of RV-8/8a builders -- and anyone else interested -- a couple
of times during the convention. We meet each other, put faces with the
names we've read about over the last few months and years, swap lies and
tips, and generally start the day with some new friendships. The
meetings are not exclusive to RV-8/8a builders, and are open to anyone
with an interest in meeting other RV-8 builders.
The gatherings are informal, and you're required to supply your own
coffee and doughnuts (since we can't seem to count on Bob Dimeo to
remember to bring them!), and have been held on Thursday and Sunday
mornings under a tree in the Theater in the Woods at around 9:00.
I don't mind hosting the meetings again, since there's not much to it
other than to bring a few old Sharpies and some nametags (yes, you have
to wear a name tag). However, if anybody out there has more grandiose
ideas or wants to take the bull by the horns and become the new
"moderator", let me know.
However it works out, it's a great time to meet those we've come to know
online and shake a few friendly hands. Let me know if I should plan
meetings or leave it up to someone else.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 fuselage jig for sale |
My fuselage is out of the jig and upright!
Jig built according to plans out of 2 x 6 with plywood gussets glued and
screwed at all corners. $125 buys it. Located in the Omaha, NE area. I need
to get rid of it as my shop is getting full!!
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
All,
You could try Electroless nickel plating. It doesn't have the embrittlement
problems of Chrome, sticks to alloy like the proverbial does to blankets
(they use it for plating racing motorcycle cylinders!) and can be polished
to a lustre as good as chrome.
I understand it can also be "tinted" to give various shades of colour but
with a depth to the lustre unavailable in chrome. Lots of the custom car
and m-cycle guys over here plate their wheels and other bits with it and
some say it has a tougher surface than chrome and so is easier to clean and
more resistant to scratching!
just my .2c worth
Graham Jones
Kilmore, Australia.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Chrome spinner shop - Looking for -
>
> I am looking for a shop to chrome my spinner. Does anyone have a shop
> they could reccommend ? Needs to be a aviation spec./qualitity shop,
> not your typical Harley chrome shop....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Investigative Reports TV show |
As usual, the media has a field day with small plane accidents, dramatizing
the dangers and providing no perspective on risk. Over 2000 people are
killed each year riding ATV's. Thanks to AOPA for representing the facts!
Peter Blake
RV6 tilt-up
N899PB reserved
.....To get some reference point, it would have been beneficial to know how
other
sporting pursuits (boating, hunting, four-wheeling, football, soccer,
bicycling, surfing, kayaking, strength training, mountain climbing, etc.)
.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 fuselage jig & Wings Cradle Available |
List:
FREE to a good home .... fuselage jig as well as wing cradle on casters.
Located at the Winston Salem airport in North Carolina.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Final 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
reposted to archives
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
>
> Hi Dan,
> If you have thoughts of comparing timing of present day
automotive
> ignition systems with the timing of existing conventional aircraft
> ignition discard these thoughts altogether.
>
> Automobiles have utilized mechanical and vacuum advance in their
> ignition systems for very many years. It became a must almost as soon
> as traffic was invented. The concept existed at the beginning of the
> century, the 20th that is. The throttle on an automobile is constantly
> manipulated while driving on all but level flat roads. Also automobile
> engines run through wider RPM. ranges in different gears as needs
> demand. The need to almost continually monitor and correctly adjust the
> timing and mixture is far less do-able than controlling the throttle. It
> is also far too distracting. Therefore the timing rate and mixture
> control rate has become auto mated. (grin!).
>
> Conventional aircraft engines for the most part use two magnetos. One of
> them is internally timed at 0 degrees for ease of starting. Once started
> that magneto automatically advances to 25 degrees advance. The rate at
> which this advance takes place is all but instantaneous.
>
> When the internal parts of the engine are in motion the mixture reaches
> the cylinder and is compressed, It takes an amount of time for the
> explosive force to build to a useful level. That period of time does not
> change, a given amount and percentage of a fuel air mixture will burn at
> a given rate regardless. It's just chemistry.
> Speeding up the engine will not speed up the rate of combustion. This
> fact brings on the need to fire the ignition earlier as RPM. is
> increased,so as to have the explosive force at it's peak just as the
> piston's position allows it to best transmit the controlled explosive
> energy to the crankshaft.
> It so happens that ignition firing at 25 degrees B.T.D.C. will
> effectively support engine RPM. from idle and on up to about 3,000 RPM..
> At least the folks that determined the design of the mags seem to have
> decided this to be true.
>
> Note that I said effectively, I did not say ideally. For the most part,
> the 25 degree figure is only just acceptably in the ball park by modern
> standards.
> This brings into play the use of the mixture control adding or leaning
> fuel mixture to keep the engine from being damaged. Expecting a pilot to
> keep the mixture exactly right when there are many other demands to be
> met, means that at best he will often be chasing the mixture settings
> required by the ever changing conditions.
> Just to add further complications, keep in mind that the indicators
> (gauges and instincts) that the pilot in control commonly uses to judge
> the right control setting to be needed have a time lapse and a less than
> 100% accuracy built in by the very nature of the whole system's design.
> This serves to ensure that the best that can be done is to almost catch
> up to the ever elusive correct mixture setting.
> Then of course there is the differing levels of knowledge, training,
> and attitudes of each and every P.I.C. that tend to add a further
> somewhat interesting wrinkle to the game plan.
>
> I was not alive or present when the decisions where made, So I cannot
> say why the magnetos where not designed with a mechanism that would fire
> the ignition spark earlier as the RPM increased, like it or not, they
> weren't.
>
> The advent of computer aided electronic ignition for aircraft brings us
> technically closer to the century that we live in. With the computer
> sensing many various conditions and making timing decisions at the rate
> of 250,000 or more times per second we can set the throttle and mixture
> as we have in the past and cruise on, secure to a reasonable degree of
> certainty that the fire is being lit at precisely the right time.
>
> With one mag and one E.I. as we climb higher and or increase the RPM.
> beyond the often suggested "24 square" the requirement for more than 25
> degrees timing is met by the E.I.. If in the meantime the mag is firing
> late by some percentage it then provides little more than an after
> firing that serves to clean up any un-burnt gases. This in the overall
> produces a cleaner running more efficient power plant.
>
> Add another E.I thereby eliminating the remaining mag and introduce
> electronic fuel injection controlled by some added computer capacity,
> link the works together, say goodbye to the mixture control and wham
> your in the 20th. century.
> It's called Fadec. Use a search engine and enter engine controls.
> Fadec is available now.
> In the near future (it's in the works) additional computer capacity and
> some more sensors will eliminate the constant speed prop pitch control
> and zap 21st.century here we come.
> The era of get in the aircraft, insert the key, start the engine,warm it
> up as temperature conditions require and fly the aircraft with no
> thought to mixture or pitch control settings is on the horizon. I
> believe it's called EPiC. Use a search engine and enter engine controls>
>
> Don't get the wrong idea, the complexity of flying will still be with
> us. However the office desk will be slightly less cluttered, it will
> otherwise be business as usual.
>
> Anyhow Dan, the answer to your question is in the fact that the E.I.
> system that you refer to changes the engine timing precisely according
> to need. So in fact when the engine is at idle and assuming that they
> are both set correctly they will both be timed right. At engine speeds
> above idle there will be various times when the E.I. will at the correct
> timing while the mag timing will be more or less slightly wrong to no
> ill effect
>
>
> Jim in Kelowna I still need to learn
>
>
> >
> > Just a hypothetical question...if you ran a combo of one traditional
> mag and
> > electronic to replace the other, wouldn't the timing of each typically
> be
> > slightly off? I wonder how combustion would get distributed in the
> jugs
> > with the sparks happening slightly offset? Might lessen cylinder life
> > somehow?
> >
> > Just hypothetical.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic ignition
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Tried this post before; evidently did not get it on the list.
> > >
> > > I have, in my 8A, an IO-360 with dual mag. Kinda wonder about the
> > redundancy
> > > of two mags with one drive.
> > >
> > > Am interested in putting electronic ignition on one set of plugs.
> > >
> > > What experience out there on killing one side of a dual mag and
> adding
> > > electronic?
> > >
> > > What would be the best options??
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Jimmy 8A--230 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic |
I would think you could just disconnect the plug wires.I had this mag on a
Cardinal RG and it has 3 nylon or plastic gears,1 drive and 1 for each
mag.Over time these gears can get brittle and the teeth break off quite
easily.At least they did on mine,but luckly it was teeth on right mag.I
replaced mag with a 3000 series which was supposed to be better.
Ollie--6A Central Fl
>From: HillStw(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: mag/electronic
>Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 22:22:19 EDT
>
>
>I have the dual mag on my IO-360 (RV8A). Kinda wonder how much redundancy
>that dual mag (with one drive) really gives me.
>Would like to go electronic on one set of plugs.
>Who knows about killing half of a dual mag? What are the best electronic
>options?
>Will appreciate any experience/knowledge on this subject.
>
>Thanks.
>Jimmy 8A--230 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mag/electronic ignition |
Jimmy,
When we recently overhauled our engine (IO-360 A1B6) (200hp), we upgraded
our Bendix mags to a new Slick mag (with impluse coupler) (starting mag)
and installed Jeff Rose's EI inplace of the other Mag. We also have the
SLickStart unit installed with an 18 amp Powersonic gel battery. The engine
startes readily and is running well. With the EI we idle very smoothly at
low RPM (500-600) and have now seen any plug fowling. The EI fires the lower
plugs, while the Mag fires the top plugs.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (80 hrs)
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
GV,
I agree with your comments!!
You might want to ask the same questions of the "Investigative Reports"
people. Shouldn't they examine all these other activities and rank order
them by numbers of fatalities and injuries. Surely the automobile would
get the prize. I am also sure that they could find bereaved family
members of traffic fatalities to interview for emotional effect.
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Boy kids-
>
> What a hatchet job was done to GA in that one hour. I was dumbfounded and I
> just don't know what to say except good googly moogly have we got a PR
> problem?
>
> To get some reference point, it would have been beneficial to know how other
> sporting pursuits (boating, hunting, four-wheeling, football, soccer,
> bicycling, surfing, kayaking, strength training, mountain climbing, etc.)
> measure up as far as injury numbers? I thought we had highway deaths of
> 40,000/yr. This is a big country and the injury rate stated for GA just
> doesn't strike me right away as that high.
>
> I do suppose that if we all just stayed home, sat on the couch and watched
> TV, like they seem to want us to, we could all just die peacefully of blood
> clots or hardening of the arteries.
>
> Rant off.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Chrome spinner shop - Looking for |
There is a reason I want to use a "aviation" shop here. I fully realize
the benefits of experimental class, and not being required to use
FAA/PMA or $TC'ed items. (There is debate on the legality of this
chroming anyway on 'real' airplanes........new Rockwell's are shipped
with these spinners from the factory) The preparation process for
chroming alimumum, especially a thin piece of sheet aluiomum that needs
to be demential intact to fit when complete. Hydrogen embrittlement and
other 'gotyas' need to be understood and worked with. That's why I am
seeking a shop that does spinners (and other stuff).......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mel Ewing <sniper_ewing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV Crash/Insurance Question/6 kit for sale! |
Bob,
thanks for the note, I'll call today after noon your
time.
I am located in montana, which might pose a problem,
do you feel everything could be packaged for shipping
without much trouble?
MEL
--- Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Mel, Give me a call tomorrow 501.847.1967 after
> 12:00 noon. You just happen
> to be the first mail I opened. Your offer is
> reasonable and I can throw in
> some other things.
> Bob
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Chrome spinner shop - Looking for - |
>> Why does it need to be an aviation shop? That's the beauty of
>> experimentals. I had plenty of things chromed and powder coated at a
>> Harley
>> chrome shop. Chrome is chrome, as long as it looks good.
>Not hardly. A mil-spec shop is the only way to go.
Ask the guys that chrome plated their valve covers only to find chrome
in their oil screens/filters because the chrome on the inside of the
cover flaked off. Comes from improper preparation of the part.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat/Alternate Source |
Jim Jewell said:
> I ruled out the above ideas because of the weight, clutter, complication,
> and the plugged solid with scat tubing appearance.
Ditto
> In any case do include a means to allow an uninterrupted flow of air
through
> the muff at all times. you do not want excess heat to build up inside the
> heat muff.
I considered this before I made the flange that closes off the gaps going
into the airbox. Went ahead with it on the theory that, with the Robbins
muff, there's no blast air tube forcing air into the muff -- it's open on
the top so air will pretty much just swirl around in there if the bottom of
the SCAT tube is closed off. So far so good with my set-up.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~375 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Taxation with penalty and interest!!!! Builder Beware in |
Illinois
See the most recent Sport Aviation for an article about this. This
applies almost everywhere, how it is applied varies widely (as well as
the dodges you can get away with), and has been discussed on the list in
the past. IIRC, the best advice is to value your aircraft according to
the receipts as opposed to real (or resale) value and pay as you get the
components to avoid penalties and lock the rate - parts are cheaper than
the value of a finished AC.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit - 9 days to move
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan DeNeal
Subject: RV-List: Taxation with penalty and interest!!!! Builder Beware
in Illinois
I received my N number last month (June) and the State
of Illinois sent me a request for registering my plane
to the Illinois Dept of Transportation. That cost is
$20 for two years. But they did not want it registered
until I receive the Airworthiness Certificate on the
plane. They told me to call the Dept of Revenue to
figure what my takes will be.
When I called their office and explained I had been
working on this kit for 8 years, they said I should
have been paying a use tax during the building
process.
A "USE TAX" I exclaimed!!! What is that? They said
that whenever I buy anything out of state and that
company does not charge a sales tax, that I was
suppose to turn around and send 6.25% whethin 30 days
of purchase.
I told them I had never heard of such a tax. Nobody
ever does that!!!
I was then told that their will be penalties and
interest assocated with all purchases that had not
been taxed. They also said that they could not go back
past 6 years to collect taxes and anything I bought
from an individual is also tax exempt. Also, anything
I bought in the State of Illinois would already have
been taxed and that is exempt.
That leaves out alot. I bought my wings and tail from
an individual. I bought my engine & prop from an
individual. I started my project 8 years ago buying a
lot of stuff up front which is now exempt. But that
leaves my fuselage and finish kit to deal with.
Maybe if I wait for another 4 years I won't have to
pay anything.
Dan DeNeal
Just wondering if finishing is a good idea!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 fuselage jig & Wings Cradle Available |
FREE to a good home .... fuselage jig as well as wing cradle on casters.
Located at the Winston Salem airport in North Carolina.
Yeah, Len. That's the RV spirit. I gave my gig away 5 years ago and, I
believe at least 5 other fuselages have been build on it since. My only
stipulation was for whoever used it to also give it away and write on it
the aircraft number and who/when it was completed. I feel like a god
father to these aircraft. One guy blew it and traded the jig for a used
refrigerator for his hanger.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Taxation with penalty and interest!!!! Builder Beware in |
Illinois
Maybe if I wait for another 4 years I won't have to
pay anything.
Dan DeNeal
Just wondering if finishing is a good idea!
OH, yeah. Finishing is a REALLY good idea. Just you wait. You can't let
The Taxman get you down. Let me tell you how it will be. There's one for
you nineteen for me, cuz I'm the Taxman, yeah, I'm the Taxman. (George)
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
Hello everyone,
I have over 5 hours on the plane now and everything is working great.
All engine parameters are in the green. The airplane flies better than we
could have hoped for. I took off in 150 feet this morning and landed in 300
ft. Hard to believe, but true. It climbs like a homesick angel, 1500 feet
per minute on a hot day. It stalls at 42 miles per hour with flaps or 44
with flaps up. The stalls are straight forward with a little buffet and the
nose only drops about five degrees. It is stable yet responsive and a total
delight to fly.
I will try to get some jpeg pictures sent out. I don't have any
digital pictures of the finished product at this time.
Will keep you posted,
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
My wife turned the TV off because she got tired of hearing me yelling.
In a somber, serious tone: "It is estimated that at least one small aircraft
crashes each day. This is equivalent to 3 jumbo jets crashing per year. If
that were happening, people would be screaming for change." That was some
"industry expert." I guess he doesn't know how many cars crash per day. I
wonder how many Greyhound buses that adds up to? That show was a huge piece
of excrement, in my never to be humble opinion.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [mailto:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: A&E Hogwash
Boy kids-
What a hatchet job was done to GA in that one hour. I was dumbfounded and I
just don't know what to say except good googly moogly have we got a PR
problem?
To get some reference point, it would have been beneficial to know how other
sporting pursuits (boating, hunting, four-wheeling, football, soccer,
bicycling, surfing, kayaking, strength training, mountain climbing, etc.)
measure up as far as injury numbers? I thought we had highway deaths of
40,000/yr. This is a big country and the injury rate stated for GA just
doesn't strike me right away as that high.
I do suppose that if we all just stayed home, sat on the couch and watched
TV, like they seem to want us to, we could all just die peacefully of blood
clots or hardening of the arteries.
Rant off.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
If it makes you feel any better, the ratings for this show are so low
that hardly anybody watches it. ;-)
Sam Buchanan
=================
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> My wife turned the TV off because she got tired of hearing me yelling.
>
> In a somber, serious tone: "It is estimated that at least one small aircraft
> crashes each day. This is equivalent to 3 jumbo jets crashing per year. If
> that were happening, people would be screaming for change." That was some
> "industry expert." I guess he doesn't know how many cars crash per day. I
> wonder how many Greyhound buses that adds up to? That show was a huge piece
> of excrement, in my never to be humble opinion.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
If you really want your blood pressure to rise, see the comments at the
website. There's one guy, tagline 'atc' who belongs in an institution.
On second thought, perhaps we'd be better off avoiding the website.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A project in transit (Chicago to Flagstaff) in 9
days
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV-List: A&E Hogwash
Excrement indeed! *** snipped the rest ***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02:23:08 PM
I kept thinking about that statistic you always hear. "More people are
killed each year by being kicked by mules than by aviation related
accidents". I mean, something has got to be done about this danger to us
all. There simply must be more restrictions on mules in this country, if
not it won't be long until our streets are no longer safe from rogue bands
of jackasses. I'm told they are already running amok in Washington D.C.
Eric
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" (at)matronics.com on 07/09/2002
12:52:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: A&E Hogwash
My wife turned the TV off because she got tired of hearing me yelling.
In a somber, serious tone: "It is estimated that at least one small
aircraft
crashes each day. This is equivalent to 3 jumbo jets crashing per year.
If
that were happening, people would be screaming for change." That was some
"industry expert." I guess he doesn't know how many cars crash per day. I
wonder how many Greyhound buses that adds up to? That show was a huge
piece
of excrement, in my never to be humble opinion.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [mailto:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: A&E Hogwash
Boy kids-
What a hatchet job was done to GA in that one hour. I was dumbfounded and
I
just don't know what to say except good googly moogly have we got a PR
problem?
To get some reference point, it would have been beneficial to know how
other
sporting pursuits (boating, hunting, four-wheeling, football, soccer,
bicycling, surfing, kayaking, strength training, mountain climbing, etc.)
measure up as far as injury numbers? I thought we had highway deaths of
40,000/yr. This is a big country and the injury rate stated for GA just
doesn't strike me right away as that high.
I do suppose that if we all just stayed home, sat on the couch and watched
TV, like they seem to want us to, we could all just die peacefully of blood
clots or hardening of the arteries.
Rant off.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 532hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | flying builders going to OshKosh |
Hey everybody: who all from the 8/8A team who has a
flying bird is going to make the trek to OshKosh this
year? I would like to meet any of you that are
intersted. If any of youse guys (that's my New York
impression) are interested contact me off list or on
list at willig10(at)yahoo.com I have followed a couple
of you guys through completion and just want to get to
know you so that in the future I have an excuse to "go
somewhere" I would really like to meet denk and
Vondane any suggestions where we should do this deed?
I know the 8 group meets in the theater in the woods
maybe this would be a good idea let me know your
thoughts.
Glenn Williams
8a
A&P
Fort Worth, TX
finishing (finally)
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Taxation with penalty and interest!!!! Builder Beware in |
Illinois
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
> Man, this kind of taxation strong arm tactic drives
> me nuts.
>
> I say SCREW 'EM. If they have the resources to
> bother you for a few bills,
> then they certainly have the resources to go nail
> some other guy or
> corporation that would yield a LOT more revenue.
> You are hardly worth their
> effort. You bought a few boxes of aluminum pieces.
> That cost, oh, say
> about $39.95. (What the hell do those dweebs know
> about building airplanes
> anyway??)
>
Unfortunatly, since their are almost 3,000 of these
airplanes having been built, the tax man is getting a
little wiser and smarter by now! The tax man even
asked me if it was Van's Aircraft kit.
Dan in Tax land
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mel Ewing <sniper_ewing(at)yahoo.com> |
Of course, if you want to see some staggering numbers,
read this article about deaths from common medicine.
http://www.codexalimentarius.org/read_article2.php?art_no=290
MEL
--- Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>
>
> I kept thinking about that statistic you always
> hear. "More people are
> killed each year by being kicked by mules than by
> aviation related
> accidents". I mean, something has got to be done
> about this danger to us
> all. There simply must be more restrictions on mules
> in this country, if
> not it won't be long until our streets are no longer
> safe from rogue bands
> of jackasses. I'm told they are already running amok
> in Washington D.C.
>
> Eric
>
June 30, 2002 - July 09, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nb