RV-Archive.digest.vol-ne
July 26, 2002 - August 04, 2002
this would not help on a float plane, but would really help an RV really
move.
www.avweb.com. has some really good articles about turbo aircraft systems.
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TURBO 360, was bigger engines in RVs |
>
> Ian and list,
> Have you looked into this at all. I have been
> wondering if anyone has put a continental TSIO-360 in
> an RV.
>
>
> Any one else
> --- Ian Scott wrote:
> >
> >
> > what about a turbo 360?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: bigger engines in RVs
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 7/25/02 11:52:01 AM Eastern
> > Daylight Time,
> > > dwstiles(at)hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Eventually we plan on putting it on floats and
> > will be building it with
> > > that
> > > in mind. Because of the extra drag etc they will
> > cause we are interested
> > in
> > > something more than a 200hp 360 engine. We have
> > looked at the various
> > alt
> > > engines, Subbies and Mazdas as well as the Ford
> > & Chev v6 & small v8
> > > packages. Nothing seems quite "right" at this
> > time. We are
> > contemplating
> > > the use of a 540 and would be interested in
> > hearing form or corresponding
> > > with anyone who has hung a 540 on their RV6. I
> > know we are a year or two
> > > out from the point where it will be needed but we
> > tend to do a lot of
> > > thinking, research and planning before we jump.
> > Any information or
> > advice
> > > would be very appreciated. D. Wayne Stiles >>
> > >
> > > There was an extensive article 2-3 years ago in
> > Sport Aviation on a
> > modified
> > > RV-6 with an IO540. The key here is MODIFIED.
> > They replaced many of the
> > > fuselage skins with heavier skins, lengthened the
> > rear fuselage, modified
> > the
> > > wings, and made many more changes in an effort to
> > make the airplane match
> > an
> > > engine it wasn't designed for.
> > >
> > > Tom Hallendorf was the builder of that airplane.
> > Here's a 3 year old
> > e-mail
> > > address for him. I have no idea if it is good
> > today: n888th(at)flash.net
> > >
> > > By the way, if you're really interested in floats,
> > I believe there are
> > better
> > > airframes than the short winged RV's. Because of
> > induced drag, the short
> > > wing RV's are very draggy in low speed flight, and
> > floats will make that
> > > situation worse. Eustace Bowhay, who sometimes
> > comments in this space,
> > could
> > > offer advice on how suitable RV's are for floats.
> > He built one. His
> > e-mail
> > > is: ebowhay(at)jetstream.net
> > >
> > >
> > > Kyle Boatright
> > > 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> > > Kennesaw, GA
> > > http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
> > >
> > >
> >
> > - Get the best out of your PC!
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
>
- Get the best out of your PC!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum fuel lines |
A few days ago I suggested that aluminum fuel lines might be used between
fuel pump and carburetor because similar lines are used between the rockers
and sump on Lycoming engines. Just for the record, I would like to
backtrack on that one and suggest staying with the tried and true
fire-sleeved flexible line for this purpose. No place for experimenting.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain mis-information |
I was not impressed with Greg on the first day I was there so I went back
the second day along with a couple of Evanville builders, Steve and Larry.
Steve Eberhart asked Greg a very pointed question. "Have you found the
problem with the unit Sam had been flying"? Greg's answer was, "It was an
install problem, but I have rewritten the code and will send it back to Sam.
The problem was with (get this) all that metal". He also stated no one
else has had such a problem. But, he has rewritten the code to disregard
all that clutter information when it tries to overload. I asked Greg what
the difference is between his unit and the Dynon unit. His reply was, "We
are shipping, he is not".
Now for Dynon. He was very straight forward and simply said, when someone
asked, that they had LIED last year, unintentionally. He thought the unit
would be available but history had made him a liar. He used those words.
He was very, very honest. He is not shipping because he isn't finished with
the unit. He hopes to be complete very soon and will ship only when he is
certain he has addressed all the bugs.
Two very different guys, you make up your own mind.
STEC (which I have in my Bonanza) and TruTrack..........TruTrack for my 7!!
And those 3D glasses with the video driver...........NICE:-) Makes flying
Flight Sim fun again.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>I recently returned from OSH and wish to correct some mis-information
>that is being circulated by Greg Richter at Blue Mountain Avionics
>concerning the EFIS/lite installation in my RV-6. The points I am about
>to address were stated to me both by Greg himself and by Greg in his
>forum which I attended Tuesday afternoon.
>
>Greg is stating that the problems I experienced with the three
>EFIS/Lites I flew in my plane were due to magnetometer installation
>errors/problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tiny torque values |
First, we aren't building an F14. Second, make one. A 50# spring produce
scale attached via hook into notch in a socket handle 10" out and measure the
pull. It's just inch/pounds 1.2# at 10" = 12 "/#
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> What is everyone using for smaller torque values, those less than 25
> in/lbs? The screw on the mags call for 12 in/lbs. Prop. gov. screws
> are 18-20 in/lbs. Etc. First glance at torque screwdrivers that do
> ~5-25 in/lbs range in price from $150 to $1000. I don't recall anyone
> else on the list complaining about the need to buy these pricey
> screwdrivers before, so I assume everyone is guessing as they tighten
> these...or what?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
BlankCan someone point me in the right direction? A while back I
remember visiting a web site (I thought it was Vans site but no luck)
that had a list of all the part numbers for the various kits and the
cost of the part.
Any help?
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UPSAT GX60 -- 4G maximum?! |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: UPSAT GX60 -- 4G maximum?!
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 00:07:59 -0700
In the specs for the UPSAT GX60 IFR GPS/Comm, it says:
"Acceleration 4G maximum"
Anybody know what the deal is with this? Is this horizontal acceleration?
)_( Dan
Dan:
Greetings from AirVenture 2002.
Not able to explain this. I have a GX-60 installed since Christmas. It has
seen more than 4 Gs and still works fine. There are 2 other RVs in SoCAL
that have GX-65. From what I understand, the hardware is the same but the
software is different.
If I do not depart tomorrow, I will go see Wayne McGee at the UPSAT booth
and ask him.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,138.1+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Part numbers |
Mike, the information that you want is on Vans website. Go to Van's site,
select "Online Shopping", go down the page and select "Click here to open
the list", this will open up the complete parts list with all of the prices.
Vince Welch
>From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Part numbers
>Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 22:46:12 -0500
>
>
>BlankCan someone point me in the right direction? A while back I
>remember visiting a web site (I thought it was Vans site but no luck)
>that had a list of all the part numbers for the various kits and the
>cost of the part.
>
>Any help?
>
>Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
>Georgetown, TX
>Fuselage
>RV6 N699BM Reserved
>1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
I wonder if anyone attending OSH has heard anythign about the RV-11, which
is supposed to be a motorized glider ?
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | NTSB accident reports |
Listers FYI - AOPA has put up an easy to use database of NTSB A/C accident
reports on their website: http://www.aopa.org/asf/ntsb/
Peter Blake
RV6 finish kit
N899PB reserved
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
F-1 ROCKET KIT, ENGINE, PROP,INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE I have for sale an F-1
Rocket kit, a completely overhauled IO-540 C4B5 engine (overhauled by Don
George), and a new Hartzell 3-bladed prop. Instrumentation includes but not
limited to: new Garmin 250XL radio, fuel guages, fuel pressure, EI
volt/ammeter, manifold pressure guage, and more. Also included is a NavAid
autopilot unit. Unit servo is installed and attached to the torgue tube.
Wings are closed up and I have position and strobe lights as well as a tail
white light. Also included is a F-1 Rocket tailgroup. Skeleton is built,
ready to be skinned. This F-1 Rocket kit is extremely far along in its build.
Electrical sub-panel complete including all circuit breakers installed.
Interior Fuselage is complete. Fuel system complete with the exception of the
installation of the electric fuel pump (included). Engine has the airflow
performance kit, starter, alternator, Rose electronic ignition with the ring
gear for high powered engines. Master solenoid, starter solenoid are
included. Almost everything needed to complete rocket is included. Rocket
could be flying in approx 5 months with some effort. Will consider the first
$79k. Please no tire kickers. Call 561-848-3418 or cell 561-373-3797. Will
also consider a trade for a flying RV6 or RV4. Must have 180hp and c/s prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 4 G maximum for GPS |
Listers,
I have not read every reply to this post, so I hope I am not being redundant.
Since the box will certainly see more than 4 g's shock in shipping and
handling, and sport aircraft are a major customer group for avionics of this
class, I must assume that the strength of the unit is not the issue.
I would surmise that the real issue is that the GPS will not give accurate
information when the aircraft is accelerated at over 4 G's. The velocity
vector calculations probably have a filter to cut out the errors generated by
multipath signals and other short duration interference that is common in RF
systems. So they put a software filter in the system that says any signal
that says you are accelerating over X G's is to be disregarded. They have
chosen X=4 for this unit.
I would not worry about it unless you are trying to fly an approach
consisting of a series of loops or humongous heading corrections.
Jim
RV-3 N112RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Mounting |
I've checked the archives and found several locations successfully used for
mounting the oil cooler on an RV6. I have a 9 row Aero-Classics cooler, and
the standard dynafocal engine mount. When I "locate" the oil cooler behind
the LH aft cylinder, it looks like it sticks laterally outboard beyond the
#4 cylinder head to keep from interfering on the inboard side on the cooler
mounting flange with one of the engine mount support tubes. I've seen
several reports in the archives about mounting the 7 row cooler in this
location, and wondered if anyone has mounted the 9 row in this location, off
the back of the baffle. My 9 row measures 3 5/8" wide, 5 3/8" X 8 1/4".
Looking at the spec. sheets, the standard 7 row coolers are about 3/4" less
in width (~ 4 1/2" vs 5 3/8").
Thanks
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
RV6
N515DB (reserved)
Finishing Kit (still!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GNS 430 Database Updates |
List: Anyone know of a source (Other than Jeppesen) for Updates for
Garmin's GNS 430 ? Jeppesen wants $215.00 per update and your old chip
is to be returned.
Testing wiring........Getting closer to fiberglass and paint
on the RV6-A.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: bigger engines in RVs |
Wayne, goto http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/ and check out the fuselage
mock up of the F2 side by side two seater. I believe it is Team Rockets
function in life to put big engines in little planes. Here is an aircraft
that will have all the design changes proffessionally done to take a big
engine on an airplane roughly the size of an RV7. The main guy, Mark, always
answers email. I don't know how new a piece of paper this airplane was
drafted on but the F2 and the HR are using most of Van's creativity. They
are based on an RV4. They park with us at airshows.
Even though it is still in design, it might use the same proven tail as the
F2. Ask Mark, you and your partner might be able to start building right
away.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: bigger engines in RVs
>
> My buddy and I are about to take the plunge and start our RV7 this fall.
> I've been reading all the "tools" posts with avid interest, particularly
any
> used tool sets that become available. He's at Oshkosh--I couldn't go this
> year and I would not be shocked to find that he's ordered the tailfeathers
> kit while up there, especially if Vans is using the 7 for demo rides this
> year.
>
> Eventually we plan on putting it on floats and will be building it with
that
> in mind. Because of the extra drag etc they will cause we are interested
in
> something more than a 200hp 360 engine. We have looked at the various alt
> engines, Subbies and Mazdas as well as the Ford & Chev v6 & small v8
> packages. Nothing seems quite "right" at this time. We are contemplating
> the use of a 540 and would be interested in hearing form or corresponding
> with anyone who has hung a 540 on their RV6. I know we are a year or two
> out from the point where it will be needed but we tend to do a lot of
> thinking, research and planning before we jump. Any information or
advice
> would be very appreciated. D. Wayne Stiles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 G maximum for GPS |
There are various target levels in the Technical Standards Orders (TSO's)
for many of the individual tests involved. There are tests for shock and
vibration and the 4G quoted might be the level which this unit was tested to
and met. However, one of the other listers is going to be talking to the
"horse's mouth" at Oshkosh, so he should have the definitive answer.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
>
> Listers,
>
> I have not read every reply to this post, so I hope I am not being
redundant.
> Since the box will certainly see more than 4 g's shock in shipping and
> handling, and sport aircraft are a major customer group for avionics of
this
> class, I must assume that the strength of the unit is not the issue.
>
> I would surmise that the real issue is that the GPS will not give
accurate
> information when the aircraft is accelerated at over 4 G's. The velocity
> vector calculations probably have a filter to cut out the errors generated
by
> multipath signals and other short duration interference that is common in
RF
> systems. So they put a software filter in the system that says any signal
> that says you are accelerating over X G's is to be disregarded. They have
> chosen X=4 for this unit.
>
> I would not worry about it unless you are trying to fly an approach
> consisting of a series of loops or humongous heading corrections.
>
> Jim
> RV-3 N112RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6 |
Brand new 200hp AEIO-360-A1E6 from Aircraft Spruce = $28,995
Brand new 200hp IO-360-A1B6 from Van's Aircraft = $31,300
Hm...can any experts out there tell me what the major differences are?
Engine mount compatibility? Is there anything about the AEIO that's
generally a negative attribute for normal, non-aerobatic operation?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (wings)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
does anyone have weight and balance data for an -8 without the engine?
Obviously it would be way out of balance but I am working with an alt.
engine and wondered how the airframe itself balances out. Kevin do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Guys, I am in the process of making an inventory list. I have nearly every
thinkable tool plus. I would like to sell the entire works vs piece by piece.
If anyone know of a builder that is in the market, PLEASE CONTACT ME OFF
LIST. Everything is great shape and some not even used. The price will be way
below what I paid, and will have all the details later in the next week or
two.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas...... still recouping.........getting there slowly.
BTW, Don't forget to practice those dead stick landings-ya never know-BE
PREPARED!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 Database Updates |
Hi Tom & Cathy,
In case you didn't know about it, Jeppesen has two additional services
for updates for the 430 database. One is an update every 28 days (the
regular interval for approach plates and low altitude charts) via mail
exchanging the cartridges. The other is via internet through your
computer to download the data to your cartridge. The first is $600
annually and the second is $325 annually.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> List: Anyone know of a source (Other than Jeppesen) for Updates for
> Garmin's GNS 430 ? Jeppesen wants $215.00 per update and your old chip
> is to be returned.
> Testing wiring........Getting closer to fiberglass and paint
> on the RV6-A.
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 Database Updates |
Tom and Cathy,
In re-reading my post, I note a possibility for confusion. Both of the
annual programs supply updates every 28 days, the download method
costing about half the by-mail procedure.
Regards,
RHDudley
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>
> Hi Tom & Cathy,
> In case you didn't know about it, Jeppesen has two additional services
> for updates for the 430 database. One is an update every 28 days (the
> regular interval for approach plates and low altitude charts) via mail
> exchanging the cartridges. The other is via internet through your
> computer to download the data to your cartridge. The first is $600
> annually and the second is $325 annually.
>
> Regards,
> Richard Dudley
>
> Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> >
> >
> > List: Anyone know of a source (Other than Jeppesen) for Updates for
> > Garmin's GNS 430 ? Jeppesen wants $215.00 per update and your old chip
> > is to be returned.
> > Testing wiring........Getting closer to fiberglass and paint
> > on the RV6-A.
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine and prop for sale |
Folks,
I have an IO540 C4B5, 285hp engine for sale. Engine has been completely
overhauled by Don George in Orlando and comes with started, alternator,
airflow performance injection kit, and Rose electronic igntion. Asking $26k.
Also, I have a new Hartzell 3 bladed prop for sale. Asking $6900.
Please email me or call 561-373-3797.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 Database Updates |
Richard, The down load method seems the best bang for the buck. I didn't
think about the 430 database until testing the panel and I realized my radio
is 1 year old! Thanks for your reply.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin GNS 430 Database Updates
>
> Tom and Cathy,
> In re-reading my post, I note a possibility for confusion. Both of the
> annual programs supply updates every 28 days, the download method
> costing about half the by-mail procedure.
>
> Regards,
> RHDudley
>
> Richard Dudley wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Tom & Cathy,
> > In case you didn't know about it, Jeppesen has two additional services
> > for updates for the 430 database. One is an update every 28 days (the
> > regular interval for approach plates and low altitude charts) via mail
> > exchanging the cartridges. The other is via internet through your
> > computer to download the data to your cartridge. The first is $600
> > annually and the second is $325 annually.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Richard Dudley
> >
> > Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > List: Anyone know of a source (Other than Jeppesen) for Updates for
> > > Garmin's GNS 430 ? Jeppesen wants $215.00 per update and your old chip
> > > is to be returned.
> > > Testing wiring........Getting closer to fiberglass and paint
> > > on the RV6-A.
> > >
> > > Tom in Ohio
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Air Vents |
List, I have decided to go with the aluminum air vents (After
inspecting the Vans, too large) and was wondering if Spruce is a good
source? The price including a 2" adapter is about $86.50 each.
Has anybody tried the aluminum vents from Wicks on Page 55 of
their 2002 catalog? Swivel Vent black or gray anodized $46.65 plus a 2"
adapter that doesn't seem to be listed.
I have to install my vents on the bottom edge of the panel
against the fuselage so size is important. Any good pictures of an
installation on the Builder WebSites??
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Mounting |
Duane,
I mounted the Stewart Warner 8432R on my -6 and it is even a little wider
than yours (5 3/4 vs. 5 3/8). It can be done. Check my web site at
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
You will need to move it outboard as far as you can and therefore increase
the size of the flange formed by the corner of the rear and side baffles.
You may also need to relieve a bit of the oil cooler flange on the inboard
size for clearance from the engine mount structure.
Pat Hatch
RV-6 Flying
RV-4 Flying
Vero Beach, FL
>From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Mounting
>Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 10:54:35 -0400
>
>
>I've checked the archives and found several locations successfully used for
>mounting the oil cooler on an RV6. I have a 9 row Aero-Classics cooler,
>and
>the standard dynafocal engine mount. When I "locate" the oil cooler behind
>the LH aft cylinder, it looks like it sticks laterally outboard beyond the
>#4 cylinder head to keep from interfering on the inboard side on the cooler
>mounting flange with one of the engine mount support tubes. I've seen
>several reports in the archives about mounting the 7 row cooler in this
>location, and wondered if anyone has mounted the 9 row in this location,
>off
>the back of the baffle. My 9 row measures 3 5/8" wide, 5 3/8" X 8 1/4".
>Looking at the spec. sheets, the standard 7 row coolers are about 3/4" less
>in width (~ 4 1/2" vs 5 3/8").
>
>Thanks
>
>Duane Bentley
>West Chester, OH
>RV6
>N515DB (reserved)
>Finishing Kit (still!)
>
>
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs TT
0-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, Flying
0-360, Hartzell C/S
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Part of the crowd |
Austin ...
You've said it much better than most have heard it told .... the investment
of one's talents, energy and enthusiasm to enable your dream .... the
freedom of fun, cheap flying through the freedom of choice.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Air Vents |
You can see mine on the first flight page. They are truley a work of art.
I bought mine from Lancair.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum Air Vents
>
> List, I have decided to go with the aluminum air vents (After
> inspecting the Vans, too large) and was wondering if Spruce is a good
> source? The price including a 2" adapter is about $86.50 each.
> Has anybody tried the aluminum vents from Wicks on Page 55 of
> their 2002 catalog? Swivel Vent black or gray anodized $46.65 plus a 2"
> adapter that doesn't seem to be listed.
> I have to install my vents on the bottom edge of the panel
> against the fuselage so size is important. Any good pictures of an
> installation on the Builder WebSites??
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tiny torque values |
Thanks. I was high bidder on a Proto brand torque screwdriver on Ebay
yesterday. Hopefully it will work out.
Does anyone know where I can take such equipment to have it calibrated?
Is it normally a while-you-wait type thing?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark McGee
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 9:23 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tiny torque values
>
>
>
> I bought one when I overhauled my magnetos. It is a Seekonk
> torque indicating screwdriver and I got it from
> McMaster-Carr. Price is under 100 dollars.
>
> Links:
> http://www.seekonk.com/
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
>
> Mark McGee
> RV-4 Fuselage in jig
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Tiny torque values
>
>
> >
> > What is everyone using for smaller torque values, those
> less than 25
> > in/lbs? The screw on the mags call for 12 in/lbs. Prop.
> gov. screws
> > are 18-20 in/lbs. Etc. First glance at torque
> screwdrivers that do
> > ~5-25 in/lbs range in price from $150 to $1000. I don't
> recall anyone
> > else on the list complaining about the need to buy these pricey
> > screwdrivers before, so I assume everyone is guessing as
> they tighten
> > these...or what?
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | RV6/RV6A Slider WANTED to BUY |
I met Mr. Ed Hooper, Chief Engineer for Toyota Motor Sales, Aviation
Business Development Office, at OSH and he is looking to purchase an RV6 or
an RV6A, slider. He says he's got the cash and is ready to deal.
That's all I know, and I am not involved in any way. His e-mail addresses
etc, are:
edhooper(at)aol.com (home)
ehooper@toyota-aircraft.com (work)
(316) 648-5088 (home)
(310) 468-1143 (work)
Contact him if you are selling.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum fuel lines |
Fellow listers,
I plan to use a 2" Aluminum fuel line forward of the firewall for my RV-4, O
360 w/ regular Lycoming mechanical fuel pump + carburator setup as follows:
Go through the firewall with a straight Aluminum anodized fitting.
Aluminum fuel line, 2" long between the straight fitting on the firewall and
a 90 degree fitting mounted on the gascolator. This is the segment that is
bothering me. Is there enough vibration between the firewall, and the
engine mount/gear leg to cause this 2" Aluminum fuel line to fail?
The gascolator is mounted on the horizontal section of the engine mount/gear
leg, facing forward, approximately on center between two legs. Mounting the
gascolator directly on the firewall would solve the problem (eliminating the
2" line) but in the RV-4 there is not enough room between the engine mount
and the firewall. The 2" Aluminum fuel line is needed to bridge the gap
between the firewall and engine mount.
I considered a 2" flexible fuel line, but a segment this short does not work
when the required fittings are added into the equation.
Thanks in advance,
Yohann Kayir
Pensacola, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum fuel lines |
>Fellow listers,
>
>I plan to use a 2" Aluminum fuel line forward of the firewall for my RV-4,
>O
>360 w/ regular Lycoming mechanical fuel pump + carburator setup as follows:
>
>
>Go through the firewall with a straight Aluminum anodized fitting.
>
>Aluminum fuel line, 2" long between the straight fitting on the firewall
>and
>a 90 degree fitting mounted on the gascolator. This is the segment that is
>bothering me. Is there enough vibration between the firewall, and the
>engine mount/gear leg to cause this 2" Aluminum fuel line to fail?
>
>The gascolator is mounted on the horizontal section of the engine
>mount/gear
>leg, facing forward, approximately on center between two legs. Mounting
>the
>gascolator directly on the firewall would solve the problem (eliminating
>the
>2" line) but in the RV-4 there is not enough room between the engine mount
>and the firewall. The 2" Aluminum fuel line is needed to bridge the gap
>between the firewall and engine mount.
>
>I considered a 2" flexible fuel line, but a segment this short does not
>work
>when the required fittings are added into the equation.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Yohann Kayir
>Pensacola, FL
I personally would not recommend a hard piped connection between the
firewall and engine mount. What if that gascolator mounting should slip or
rotate, thus placing a preload on the tubing? Generally, you can hard pipe
components such as gascolator, fuel pressure/flow sensor, filter, etc, if
they are all mounted directly to the firewall, and preferably on the same
cross member so they have zero relative movement.
Can you increase the distance between the firewall fitting and gascolator so
that a short, flexible hose can be installed?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
295 hrs.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A And The IO 360 Engine |
Rick,
I'm VERY interested. How much are you asking? Do you have a pic that you
can email? Are these the intake tubes that use a large O-ring or the ones
connected by a piece of hose? Where are you located? You can contact me at
this email address or vwelch(at)knownet.net (home), or vwelch(at)arvesta.com
(work), or (440) 563-9541 (home), or (440) 259-2881 ext. 223 (work). I am
located in Ohio (eastern time zone).
Vince
>From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8A And The IO 360 Engine
>Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 07:34:43 -0400
>
>
>In a message dated Sat, 20 Jul 2002 1:42:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> > Just thought I'd post the resolution of my problems for other 8A
>builders.
> >
> > When I ordered my engine I simply (some might say stupidly) said that I
> > needed an IO 360 for a RV-8A. It seems that the "A" series sumps are in
> > short supply at this time. So the builder took a sump that was on an IO
> > 360-C1C which has a rear entrance and blocked it off and machined a
>front
> > entrance to the sump. This sump is physically larger than the "A"
>series.
> > If I were building a RV-8 it probably would have been ok. However, the
>nose
> > gear support braces that run from the dynafocal ring on the 8A interfere
> > with the sump. What I should have done was specified an IO 360-A1A when
> > ordering the engine.
> >
> > After spending two days on the phone, the best price I could find for a
>used
> > sump and the four intake tubes is $1200. If I return the sump and
>intake
> > tubes currently on my engine to the builder he will "generously" refund
> > $500! So, this little miscommunication is going to cost me
> > $700 and more
> > irration that you can imagine.
> >
> > Hopefully, this note will help future 8A builders.
> >
> > Vince Welch
> > Wiser but poorer
>
>Vince,
>
>If you haven't committed, I have an A series sump (used but it very good
>shape, 1100 hours) I will sell at a very reduced rate. I'm using the Sky
>Dynamics sump and accordingly don't need the stock sump and risers. I
>won't have internet access until this Friday so if you respond and don't
>get an answer you'll know why.
>
>Rick McBride
>rickrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
> A couple months ago there was discussion about a dual fuel timer from Radio
> Shack which I use on my 6A. This cheap 3" x 3" battery run timer velcroes
> to my panel and displays 2 count down timers which can be run together or
> independantly. I use this extensively as my principle fuel quantity
> indication. I stick each tank before a flight and then punch in the
> appropriate fuel quantity based on 9 gph. Then when on the left tank, I
> run down the left timer, switch to the right - right side on, left timer
> off, etc... After 150 hours flying I find it easy, reliable, and quite
> accurate.
Anyway, a couple people who tried to find it in the Radio Shack catalog,
found it was no longer listed and we all assumed it was no longer available.
Yesterday I was in a Radio Shack, and right in the store's front display,
there it was. The store manager told me it was still current item - stock
number 63899. The price is $17. Definitely the world's cheapest fuel
computer.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dual fuel timer |
Listers,
Sporty's has a three time timer that I have
been using. Use it for left, right and et,
It works great with the large disolay ect.
Stewart 273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Doug, did you get this figured out yet? Call me if you haven't, and
I'll explain it in "airline pilot's" language.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Amit,
At Arlington Van himself said he was working on such a plane as a back
burner project. No other real details were given.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, July 26, 2002 10:10:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-11
I wonder if anyone attending OSH has heard anythign about the RV-11, which
is supposed to be a motorized glider ?
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I just installed the Digitrak servo and mount according to the
directions however the rod the sent is just over 4 inches long and needs
to be over 7.5". Even after making a longer rod it does not look like it
will work properly. I would appreciate any advice.
John Furey
RV6A O-320 Sensenich 80"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Where did you mount it? What does the rod attach to and how?
Ed Holyoke
6qb
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Servo
I just installed the Digitrak servo and mount according to the
directions however the rod the sent is just over 4 inches long and needs
to be over 7.5". Even after making a longer rod it does not look like it
will work properly. I would appreciate any advice.
John Furey
RV6A O-320 Sensenich 80"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris mcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Does anyone know the site for the New Zealand Subaru aircraft engine?
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
-
Listers,
Sporty's has a three time timer that I have
been using. Use it for left, right and et,
It works great with the large display ect.
Stewart 273SB
======================================================================
Check your local cookware store.
Special for those of you putting in extra fuel tanks, Pyrex makes a neat
four time timer. My wife got one for me when I was flying a Cherokee Six
with four tanks & unreliable fuel gauges.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6A - 55 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Chris
try
www.sub4.co.nz
I can put you in contact with a gentleman here puttingone in a GP4.
email me off list
Graham Murphy
Blenheim
New Zealand
chris mcgough wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know the site for the New Zealand Subaru aircraft engine?
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
Hey Guys,
What have you been using to get the manifold pressure into the Lightspeed
controller? I considered tygon tubing but felt that it might collapse under
vacuum.
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain mis-information |
FWIW, my experience in talking with both Blue Mountain and Dynon was the same.
The Dynon folks were very up-front and straightforward, especially regarding
IFR use. Compare that with Blue Mountain with their banner that read "Single
Panel IFR" or something similar, which seemed to contradict what they've privately
said elsewhere. Dynon will get some money from me, no doubt :-).
Cheers,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
Veteran of the Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force. 1990-1951
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/26/2002 at 9:06 PM Dana Overall wrote:
>
>
>I was not impressed with Greg on the first day I was there so I went back
>the second day along with a couple of Evanville builders, Steve and Larry.
>
>Steve Eberhart asked Greg a very pointed question. "Have you found the
>problem with the unit Sam had been flying"? Greg's answer was, "It was an
>install problem, but I have rewritten the code and will send it back to
>Sam.
> The problem was with (get this) all that metal". He also stated no one
>else has had such a problem. But, he has rewritten the code to disregard
>all that clutter information when it tries to overload. I asked Greg what
>the difference is between his unit and the Dynon unit. His reply was, "We
>are shipping, he is not".
>
>Now for Dynon. He was very straight forward and simply said, when someone
>asked, that they had LIED last year, unintentionally. He thought the unit
>would be available but history had made him a liar. He used those words.
>He was very, very honest. He is not shipping because he isn't finished
>with
>the unit. He hopes to be complete very soon and will ship only when he is
>certain he has addressed all the bugs.
>
>Two very different guys, you make up your own mind.
>
>STEC (which I have in my Bonanza) and TruTrack..........TruTrack for my
>7!!
>And those 3D glasses with the video driver...........NICE:-) Makes flying
>Flight Sim fun again.
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>
>
>>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>>
>>I recently returned from OSH and wish to correct some mis-information
>>that is being circulated by Greg Richter at Blue Mountain Avionics
>>concerning the EFIS/lite installation in my RV-6. The points I am about
>>to address were stated to me both by Greg himself and by Greg in his
>>forum which I attended Tuesday afternoon.
>>
>>Greg is stating that the problems I experienced with the three
>>EFIS/Lites I flew in my plane were due to magnetometer installation
>>errors/problems.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6 |
The core value on an IO360 is $10,050. Isn't ACS's price minus the core ?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing (200 hp IO360)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [SMTP:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002 11:53 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com;
> RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6
>
>
> Brand new 200hp AEIO-360-A1E6 from Aircraft Spruce = $28,995
> Brand new 200hp IO-360-A1B6 from Van's Aircraft = $31,300
>
> Hm...can any experts out there tell me what the major differences are?
> Engine mount compatibility? Is there anything about the AEIO that's
> generally a negative attribute for normal, non-aerobatic operation?
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Will engine fit? |
I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it
will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a
Superior Air Parts sump if that helps.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Comment on Dynon.... was: Blue Mountain mis-information |
Although I stopped by both booths, I did not chat with the people from BMA,
was just looking ... stuff **looked** good.
When I stopped and chatted or listened in at Dynon, I got a totally
different impression than I got last year at OSH. Last year I felt that the
(marketing??) person speaking to me was trying to bamboozle me and was
totally dismissing some obvious flaws at the time. **THIS** time, the
Director of Engineering stood tall and opened his conversations with
everyone in an humble almost "crow-eating" tone ... I mean this in a
POSITIVE manner. [by the way, before anyone feels offended, I have both
marketing and engineering backgrounds].
He openly said they blew it on scheduling and they were obviously not very
good at it at the time. He stated what was done, what was weak and what was
to be implemented later. They had several units there with a couple that you
could pick up and "loop" or "roll" :-) . It takes some time for it to get
back to level after you take it through gyrations and they are aware and
supposedly are working to get it back to straight and level faster.
Some of the funtions had not been implemented and he was quick to point out
which before I could discover such.
I think the set-back of last year may have done them and all of us a bit of
good. I got the impression that they were adequately funded to "get it
right".
Personally I am not ready to launch into the clouds with either of these
systems but think they would be GREAT as backup (for my PERSONAL tastes). I
do hope (and think) that they will one day get these systems to the point
where more people would trust them in the soup.
Opinion ... if these things were easy to build, someone would have done it a
long time ago, so these folks are to be applauded. With sharp people
tackling the problems, it will get done technically. What will make the
difference will be the attitudes of the companies ... how they deal with
adverse conditions.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brad Benson
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 11:48 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Blue Mountain mis-information
>
>
> FWIW, my experience in talking with both Blue Mountain and Dynon
> was the same. The Dynon folks were very up-front and
> straightforward, especially regarding IFR use. Compare that
> with Blue Mountain with their banner that read "Single Panel IFR"
> or something similar, which seemed to contradict what they've
> privately said elsewhere. Dynon will get some money from me, no
> doubt :-).
>
> Cheers,
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson, Software Architect
> Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
> Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
> Veteran of the Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force. 1990-1951
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 7/26/2002 at 9:06 PM Dana Overall wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I was not impressed with Greg on the first day I was there so I
> went back
> >the second day along with a couple of Evanville builders, Steve
> and Larry.
> >
> >Steve Eberhart asked Greg a very pointed question. "Have you found the
> >problem with the unit Sam had been flying"? Greg's answer was,
> "It was an
> >install problem, but I have rewritten the code and will send it back to
> >Sam.
> > The problem was with (get this) all that metal". He also
> stated no one
> >else has had such a problem. But, he has rewritten the code to
> disregard
> >all that clutter information when it tries to overload. I asked
> Greg what
> >the difference is between his unit and the Dynon unit. His
> reply was, "We
> >are shipping, he is not".
> >
> >Now for Dynon. He was very straight forward and simply said,
> when someone
> >asked, that they had LIED last year, unintentionally. He
> thought the unit
> >would be available but history had made him a liar. He used
> those words.
> >He was very, very honest. He is not shipping because he isn't finished
> >with
> >the unit. He hopes to be complete very soon and will ship only
> when he is
> >certain he has addressed all the bugs.
> >
> >Two very different guys, you make up your own mind.
> >
> >STEC (which I have in my Bonanza) and TruTrack..........TruTrack for my
> >7!!
> >And those 3D glasses with the video driver...........NICE:-)
> Makes flying
> >Flight Sim fun again.
> >
> >Dana Overall
> >Richmond, KY
> >http://rvflying.tripod.com
> >
> >
> >>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>
> >>
> >>I recently returned from OSH and wish to correct some mis-information
> >>that is being circulated by Greg Richter at Blue Mountain Avionics
> >>concerning the EFIS/lite installation in my RV-6. The points I am about
> >>to address were stated to me both by Greg himself and by Greg in his
> >>forum which I attended Tuesday afternoon.
> >>
> >>Greg is stating that the problems I experienced with the three
> >>EFIS/Lites I flew in my plane were due to magnetometer installation
> >>errors/problems.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6 |
No core charge whatsoever, but I just spoke with Spruce and they require a
One Design serial # to sell it to you. Well, that's that! 8
)
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6
>
> The core value on an IO360 is $10,050. Isn't ACS's price minus the core ?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing (200 hp IO360)
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Checkoway [SMTP:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002 11:53 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com;
> > RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RV-List: AEIO-360-A1E6 vs. IO-360-A1B6
> >
> >
> > Brand new 200hp AEIO-360-A1E6 from Aircraft Spruce = $28,995
> > Brand new 200hp IO-360-A1B6 from Van's Aircraft = $31,300
> >
> > Hm...can any experts out there tell me what the major differences are?
> > Engine mount compatibility? Is there anything about the AEIO that's
> > generally a negative attribute for normal, non-aerobatic operation?
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (wings)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACS IGNITION SWITCH |
dear listers
a friend and fellow rv6 pilot/owner informed me of the possible problems with
the ignition switch vans sells. he got this info from thr rv-ator, pg. 14 (
N127EK ) where he had one fail and was told about 8 more that were noted. how
many others do we know about? i'm concerned !
scott
tampa
6 hrs of grinning this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
hi listers
my buddy lees rv doen't fly level even after we squeezed every bit out of the
light aileron. has anyone squeezed the flap to acheive wings level flight, so
no tab would be used?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>What have you been using to get the manifold pressure into the Lightspeed
>controller? I considered tygon tubing but felt that it might collapse
>under
>vacuum.
>
>Vince Welch
>
Vince,
Tygon is OK, as long as it is high temp and thick walled. You don't want
the flimsy, thin walled clear plastic stuff. Tygon tubing comes in many
flavors and strengths. I used thick walled tygon connected via a T fitting
into the manifold pressure sensing line (1/8" copper) hooked up to cylinder
#3. It has worked well for over 100 hrs of operation. The only trick was to
go from the 1/8" metal to the 1/4" plastic tubing. I found a T fitting in
my parts collection at work that goes from 1/8" to 1/4".
Probably a more elegant and robust solution would be to use a premade Earl's
type of premade, braided oil/fuel hose straight to a firewall manifold block
(like Van's sells). You could tap off to the Lightspeed from there as well
as to your manifold pressure gauge...if you have one. Otherwise, no
firewall manifold block is needed. I have one of Earl's hoses for my fuel
pressure gauge. I found one at a Parker Fitting store that carries the
Earl's line of race car fittings. It can be 1/8" or 3/16". You don't need
any larger than that. Just run the hose from the cylinder intake port (or
other induction tap of your choice), to a bulkhead fitting on the firewall,
where you connect a short length of plastic tubing to the Lightspeed box. I
placed the box inside the baggage hold, right on the firewall. Makes it
very easy to inspect and hardly takes up any room at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
295 hrs.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 6A brake line bulkhead fitting |
I need to install the brake fittings exiting the fuselage into the wing root area.
Problem is the plans are not clear (can you believe that?) as to where the
thing should be located! Could someone give me a couple of dimensions as to where
to drill the holes for the 90 degree bulkhead fittings. 1) measurement from
the front of the spar, & 2) measurement from the
bottom of the plane? Ondorff shows it exiting up in the leading edge of the wing
about where a flop tube fuel line would be if I was using one.
Advice & wisdom always appreciated,
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
You might want to double check that there isn't some kind of mis-rigging of
the airplane. Just slightly squeezing the aileron makes such a big
difference that I find it hard to believe it won't work unless there is
something wrong aerodynamically. You can also try "unsqueezing" the other
aileron by putting a block of wood against the trailing edge and *very
lightly* tapping it.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> hi listers
> my buddy lees rv doen't fly level even after we squeezed every bit out of
the
> light aileron. has anyone squeezed the flap to acheive wings level flight,
so
> no tab would be used?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
scott,
another good way to fix this problem is to just adjust the flap down a half
turn on the wing heavy side. you get the same results and it's barely
noticeable.
- jim
rv8a.tripod.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron / flap squeeze
>
> hi listers
> my buddy lees rv doen't fly level even after we squeezed every bit out of
the
> light aileron. has anyone squeezed the flap to acheive wings level flight,
so
> no tab would be used?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flap hinge pin quesiton... |
I'm redoing my flap hinge pin safety arrangement and need to replace both
hinge pins as a result.
Can anyone tell me on the 8 if the pins are stainless or just steel?
I can't really tell because all the cad plating is rubbed off and both my
stainless stock and my steel stock pins look the same to a magnet.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
rv8a.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Will engine fit? |
what is the part number of the sump?...if the inlet hole is in the front it
will fit..but to be sure I will need the part number..the engine will fit
anyway, but the sump may not fit because of the nose wheel...jolly in aurora,
or.
Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>
> I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it
> will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a
> Superior Air Parts sump if that helps.
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 8220
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Aero Sport rocker box covers |
Fellow Listers:
MN Wing members and Grand Champion RV builder Lyle Hefel is offering custom
sets of rocker box
covers for Aero Sport engines. I just put a set on my -4 and they are works
of art. If you have an AeroSport engine or are anticipating purchasing one,
these covers really dress up the engine. Details are available on the MN
Wing website here:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id74.htm
Check it out!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Panther Electronics Headsets ? |
Scott:
At OSHKOSH I brought headsets from Quiet Technology. I like the Panther
system only I couldn't deal with only hearing through one ear. The Quiet
Technology headsets have a mic and ear plugs for each ear with no head band.
I haven't given them a test run in an RV yet, but they have a thirty day
full refund warranty. I will update the list after testing. They sounded
good on the ground and are very well made and comfortable.
Patty Gillies
RV-6 South Carolina
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Aronson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panther Electronics Headsets ?
Scott:
I am using the Panther system in my Citabria 7ECA-150. I am building an
RV4. The system lives up to everything they say. The Citabria is every bit
as noisy as any RV and I can hear perfectly and everyone reads me load and
clear. My first set would require a full squelch and fed back engine noise.
I was directed to send back with new impressions. I received them a week
ago and have flown three times. Much improved, quieter that my David
Clarks. You need to realize that you will hear in one ear and the mic
receiver is in the other ear. No chance for stereo. If you are looking for
comfort and a quiet ride with no headsets, this may be the product for you.
I would do it again.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panther Electronics Headsets ?
>
> I have seen ads for Panther Electronics C.A.T. system ( replaces a regular
> headset with small ear-pieces ). Is anyone using this system in their RV ?
> If so , are they as good as the literature claims ?
> Any info would be appreciated .
>
> Scott Baldwin
> RV-6 120 HRS.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Will engine fit? |
I will have to wait until Bart of Aero Sport Power gets back to find the
part number of the sump. All I know is that the sump is the standard
Superior Air Parts XP-360 engine sump. Does this help?
>--> RV8-List message posted by: jollyd
>
>what is the part number of the sump?...if the inlet hole is in the front it
>will fit..but to be sure I will need the part number..the engine will fit
>anyway, but the sump may not fit because of the nose wheel...jolly in aurora,
>or.
>
>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>>
>> I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it
>> will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a
>> Superior Air Parts sump if that helps.
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 8220
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Flap hinge pin quesiton... |
Jim,
They are stainless, about .009 if I remember right.
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Andrews
Subject: RV-List: Flap hinge pin quesiton...
I'm redoing my flap hinge pin safety arrangement and need to replace both
hinge pins as a result.
Can anyone tell me on the 8 if the pins are stainless or just steel?
I can't really tell because all the cad plating is rubbed off and both my
stainless stock and my steel stock pins look the same to a magnet.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
rv8a.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap hinge pin quesiton... |
Stainless steel is not magnetic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A brake line bulkhead fitting |
Hi;
Yes, this is indeed one of those famous "builders options" that Vans leaves
in the plans.
In Vans' defense, the location of this fitting does depend on factors such
as the routing of the fuel lines into the fuselage, the location of the
boost pump mounting, the design of whatever wheel gear leg intersection
fittings that you put on, etc. So "one size" clearly will not fit all
installations.
In my case, I used a 90 deg bulkhead fitting located about 1 1/2" or perhaps
1 3/4" from the front of the spar opening and about 2 1/2" above the bottom
skin. Note that this gives about 3/4" or less above the gear leg mounting so
make sure it is note too low.
I do not have a good picture but attached you will find a couple of jpeg's
showing my solution, sorry but you will have to look hard for the fitting !
My shop is some distance away but I can get better measurements in a few
days time if you wish.
Good luck and happy building.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
C-GKGZ (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: 6A brake line bulkhead fitting
>
> I need to install the brake fittings exiting the fuselage into the wing r> oot
area. Problem is the plans are not clear (can you believe that?) as t> o where
the thing should be located! Could someone give me a couple of di> mensions
as to where to drill the holes for the 90 degree bulkhead fittin> gs. 1) measurement
from the front of the spar, & 2) measurement from the
> bottom of the plane? Ondorff shows it exiting up in the leading edge of t> he
wing about where a flop tube fuel line would be if I was using one.
>
> Advice & wisdom always appreciated,
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A Finishing
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Hello Listers;
Has anyone ever aligned the gear legs of a -4 for drilling? My original
drilled ones were very bad for alignment.
I am replacing mine and I can think of no way that I can put weight on the
legs with them not drilled. Is there a known location with no weight on
them that will result in a good alignment? I have made a great stand for
the motor mount that is holding the gear about wheel height.
I plan on transfer punching the legs and having them drilled at a friends
machine shop.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gear Legs |
I used an aircraft taper pin in my nose gear. It takes a special
reamer($32?) but the fit is excellent. The bolt Van uses can easily get
slop in it. The taper pin has a larger bearing surface too. You could
possibly redrill the old legs with a taper pin and still get a good fit. A/C
Spruce sells the reamers and pins. Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Gear Legs
>
> Hello Listers;
> Has anyone ever aligned the gear legs of a -4 for drilling? My original
> drilled ones were very bad for alignment.
>
> I am replacing mine and I can think of no way that I can put weight on the
> legs with them not drilled. Is there a known location with no weight on
> them that will result in a good alignment? I have made a great stand for
> the motor mount that is holding the gear about wheel height.
> I plan on transfer punching the legs and having them drilled at a friends
> machine shop.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Panther Electronics Headsets ? |
Sounds nice. Are they on-line or do you have pictures?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 skirts
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty Gillies
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 3:52 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Panther Electronics Headsets ?
>
>
>
> Scott:
>
> At OSHKOSH I brought headsets from Quiet Technology. I like
> the Panther system only I couldn't deal with only hearing
> through one ear. The Quiet Technology headsets have a mic
> and ear plugs for each ear with no head band. I haven't given
> them a test run in an RV yet, but they have a thirty day full
> refund warranty. I will update the list after testing. They
> sounded good on the ground and are very well made and comfortable.
>
> Patty Gillies
> RV-6 South Carolina
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gear Legs |
I have drilled RV-4 gear legs 2 times now and they worked fine.
With the gear legs in the engine mount ; you clamp both axles to a
steel angle to perfectly align the two axles. I have done these with the
mount on the plane using a cobalt drill and "Rapid Tap" as lubricant/coolant.
You have to use high pressure on the drill and slow speed for best results.
The first RV-4 had 675 hours before I sold it ; the new one has 5 hours to
date and handling is fine.
Hope this helps,
Bob Olds
Bob n' Lu Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
oldsfolks(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Low Cost Borescope |
I am about to conduct my first annual for my RV-6A (225 hrs). One item
that I am interested in getting is a low cost borescope. I spoke with a
pricey borescope dealer at OSH and was impressed by the diagnostic
capabilities that it can provide. Speaking with the borescope booth guys
at OSH convinced me that it does not take a rocket scientist to
determine if something looks funny inside your cylinders or airframe.
Does anyone have experience with these low cost borescopes? The two that
come to mind are the $169 HarborFreight model and the $200 (spruce)
Provision100. Considering that the pro models cost $1000 and up, I am a
bit scheptical of the quality that a sub $200 can provide. Am I about to
buy a cheap piece of junk?
thanks,
robin wessel
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Aileron/flap squeeze |
Rather than put on a tab, I have used a tapered wedge under the trailing edge
or on the rudder. This way you don't have a protruding tab. Use 1/4 inch
thick X 1 1/2 inch wide,tapered to nothing. I first put on a wood wedge with
duct tape and flight tested for awhile. You can adjust length and test
again. When right length; make from aluminum spar strip and flush rivet with
pop rivets and paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 oldsfolks(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Speaking of taxes, has anyone had recent experience with the California
Franchise Tax people? I have my registration from FAA so the state knows, or
will know about the airplane. In I am trying to decide weather to pay the tax
with a bill of sale for the kit or to wait until they nail me later. I know
I have to pay, would just like to know the best way to do it. Any comments
would be appreciated.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
> Tom,
>
> The finance company probably filed a lien with the FAA with the dollar
> amount of your note. That's how the CA tax leaches came up with the
> correct amount. The FAA sends data tapes monthly to all 50 states with
> any transactions for that particular state in the given month.
>
> For those that are ready to submit their FAA registration forms
> including the Bill of Sale. Don't put a dollar figure in the requested
> spot. It's optional and the FAA doesn't care BUT your state of residence
> sure will.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
> www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
RV7and7A
| Subject: | Testing my tank! |
Ok, I am ready to test my tank to make sure I don't have any leaks.
Can someone give me some good sites to tell me how! I've seen a few,
just need to find them again :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)crosscountybank.com> |
Any Alaskans out there monitoring this RV List ? My wife and I are
finishing an RV-8 and just received a very short vacation to Alaska.
Like most of our trips, this a spur of the moment trip with no
itinerary. Just airline tickets to Anchorage and a rental car from 5 PM
this Wednesday July 31 until 5 PM on Sunday August 4, 2002.
We made this trip in late September 3 years ago, and had a great time.
We rented an airplane in Palmer for a day and flew over the Harding ice
fields and up to Talkeetna. We drove to Denalai and to Seward,and
promised ourselves a summer trip as soon as we could find the time.
We hope to visit some new places and possibly meet some other RV
builders in Alaska, so we are hoping for some replies from those in
Alaska or anyone who may have advise on must see places to go and where
to stay, though I realize most places are booked up already.
We have talked seriously of moving there one day and leaving Arkansas
rice and soybean farming for something new.
We just returned from Oshkosh a couple of days ago where we camped under
the wing of our Cessna 182, to find a great deal on some airline
tickets to Anchorage that we could not turn down.
I do not know if any one who may reply to this will receive this and
reply before we depart Wednesday morning, but we will check our e-mail
upon arrival.
We would greatly appreciate any and all replies.
Jim and Debra Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
| Subject: | BMA and Dynon EFIS |
I just got back from OSH where I spent a good deal of time looking over the Blue
Mountain EFIS light and the Dynon. In my opinion the Dynon wins hands down.
Here's my summary:
Cost - Dynon comes in about $1500-$1800 cheaper, maybe a little less if you buy
Dynons external magnetometer and battery backup.
Display - I preferred the display on the Dynon, the text appeared easier to read
and had a higher contrast. The Dynon was displayed inside, but the reps were
happy to unplug the unit and bring it outside in direct sunlight operating off
battery backup. Unlike others that have expressed concern about sunlight visibility,
I found the dsplay to be readable in all but direct reflected sunlight
(or nearly direct). This meant the unit had to be tipped back so that the display
reflected the sunlight directly like a mirror. There is virtually zero chance
of this in a cockpit with the display mounted below eye level. Both BMA
and Dynon claimed to have the brightest display available. BMA was in a tent outside,
so the ambient light was greater, but they were not setup to move the
display into direct sunlight, but it looked as if it would be comparable to the
Dynon in terms of brightness.
Honesty - Dynon will tell you up front that they underestimated delivery times
and they have significant flight testing to complete prior to taking orders. However,
they're not taking anybodies money until they have adequate flight time
and can deliver. Dynon was very straight forward with they're current shortcomings
and the plan to fix them. BMA will take your money and you won't know when
you'll get your Beta unit to flight test for them!
Physical - While I don't have actual weights for the units, the Dynon seemed to
be significantly lighter, fits in a 3 1/8" instrument hole and is fully self
contained. Although the display sizes were very close, the BMA was encased in
a large square chassis and required an externally mounted powersupply unit.
Recovery - The BMA unit will display "Re-Erect" message if the roll rate has been
exceeded, then it is up to the user to fly straight and level, then push the
button to re-erect the display. Currently the Dynon does not display an error
when it's roll rate has been exceeded, but this was readily admitted as a short
coming and is on their priority list to fix before releasing the units. The
Dynon unit will also recover on it's own, but the current recovery time is on
the order of a minute; this is also on the priority list to bring the recovery
time down.
Upgrades - The Dynon unit is software upgradeable ion the field via RS232 port.
This includes operating software as well as customized user checklists. I believe
the BMA is also field upgradeable, though I'm not sure about user checklist
support.
Dynon had about 20+ units on display that they referred to as the Beta units that
would be installed for flight testing. Having heard mixed reviews on the BMA
flight testing, I'm anxious to see what the Dynon beta testers find. Anybody
signed up as a Beta tester for Dynon?
Todd Houg
RV9A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Cash,
FWIW, I would rather set the value of my airplane than let them come up with
an inflated value.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CA taxes
>
> Speaking of taxes, has anyone had recent experience with the California
> Franchise Tax people? I have my registration from FAA so the state knows,
or
> will know about the airplane. In I am trying to decide weather to pay the
tax
> with a bill of sale for the kit or to wait until they nail me later. I
know
> I have to pay, would just like to know the best way to do it. Any
comments
> would be appreciated.
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> Hayward, Ca
>
>
> > Tom,
> >
> > The finance company probably filed a lien with the FAA with the dollar
> > amount of your note. That's how the CA tax leaches came up with the
> > correct amount. The FAA sends data tapes monthly to all 50 states with
> > any transactions for that particular state in the given month.
> >
> > For those that are ready to submit their FAA registration forms
> > including the Bill of Sale. Don't put a dollar figure in the requested
> > spot. It's optional and the FAA doesn't care BUT your state of residence
> > sure will.
> >
> > Bruce
> > Glasair III
> > www.glasair.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BMA and Dynon EFIS |
I too am watching these units very carefully and plan to buy one of them
when ready. I too saw them both at OSH and agree with Todd's assesment to
which I would add a few observations...
Dynon:
+ Company seems better funded and commited for the long run
+ Mounts in standard 3.125" hole with various adapters available as needed
for various retrofits.
- It lacks OAT and the resulting TAS computation capability, a glaring
omission in this day and age.
BMA:
- Airspeed and altitude numbers too small
- "Re-erect" error on very little roll, didn't even come close to matching
the roll rate of an RV
- Non-standard mounting rectangle, must be pulled out from rear
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 231 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Houg" <thoug(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: BMA and Dynon EFIS
>
> I just got back from OSH where I spent a good deal of time looking over
the Blue Mountain EFIS light and the Dynon. In my opinion the Dynon wins
hands down. Here's my summary:
>
> Cost - Dynon comes in about $1500-$1800 cheaper, maybe a little less if
you buy Dynons external magnetometer and battery backup.
>
> Display - I preferred the display on the Dynon, the text appeared easier
to read and had a higher contrast. The Dynon was displayed inside, but the
reps were happy to unplug the unit and bring it outside in direct sunlight
operating off battery backup. Unlike others that have expressed concern
about sunlight visibility, I found the dsplay to be readable in all but
direct reflected sunlight (or nearly direct). This meant the unit had to be
tipped back so that the display reflected the sunlight directly like a
mirror. There is virtually zero chance of this in a cockpit with the display
mounted below eye level. Both BMA and Dynon claimed to have the brightest
display available. BMA was in a tent outside, so the ambient light was
greater, but they were not setup to move the display into direct sunlight,
but it looked as if it would be comparable to the Dynon in terms of
brightness.
>
> Honesty - Dynon will tell you up front that they underestimated delivery
times and they have significant flight testing to complete prior to taking
orders. However, they're not taking anybodies money until they have adequate
flight time and can deliver. Dynon was very straight forward with they're
current shortcomings and the plan to fix them. BMA will take your money and
you won't know when you'll get your Beta unit to flight test for them!
>
> Physical - While I don't have actual weights for the units, the Dynon
seemed to be significantly lighter, fits in a 3 1/8" instrument hole and is
fully self contained. Although the display sizes were very close, the BMA
was encased in a large square chassis and required an externally mounted
powersupply unit.
>
> Recovery - The BMA unit will display "Re-Erect" message if the roll rate
has been exceeded, then it is up to the user to fly straight and level, then
push the button to re-erect the display. Currently the Dynon does not
display an error when it's roll rate has been exceeded, but this was readily
admitted as a short coming and is on their priority list to fix before
releasing the units. The Dynon unit will also recover on it's own, but the
current recovery time is on the order of a minute; this is also on the
priority list to bring the recovery time down.
>
> Upgrades - The Dynon unit is software upgradeable ion the field via RS232
port. This includes operating software as well as customized user
checklists. I believe the BMA is also field upgradeable, though I'm not sure
about user checklist support.
>
> Dynon had about 20+ units on display that they referred to as the Beta
units that would be installed for flight testing. Having heard mixed reviews
on the BMA flight testing, I'm anxious to see what the Dynon beta testers
find. Anybody signed up as a Beta tester for Dynon?
>
> Todd Houg
> RV9A - Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket for sale |
What is the kit serial number?
----- Original Message -----
From: <BrownScottA(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rocket for sale
>
> F-1 ROCKET KIT, ENGINE, PROP,INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE I have for sale an F-1
> Rocket kit, a completely overhauled IO-540 C4B5 engine (overhauled by Don
> George), and a new Hartzell 3-bladed prop. Instrumentation includes but
not
> limited to: new Garmin 250XL radio, fuel guages, fuel pressure, EI
> volt/ammeter, manifold pressure guage, and more. Also included is a NavAid
> autopilot unit. Unit servo is installed and attached to the torgue tube.
> Wings are closed up and I have position and strobe lights as well as a
tail
> white light. Also included is a F-1 Rocket tailgroup. Skeleton is built,
> ready to be skinned. This F-1 Rocket kit is extremely far along in its
build.
> Electrical sub-panel complete including all circuit breakers installed.
> Interior Fuselage is complete. Fuel system complete with the exception of
the
> installation of the electric fuel pump (included). Engine has the airflow
> performance kit, starter, alternator, Rose electronic ignition with the
ring
> gear for high powered engines. Master solenoid, starter solenoid are
> included. Almost everything needed to complete rocket is included. Rocket
> could be flying in approx 5 months with some effort. Will consider the
first
> $79k. Please no tire kickers. Call 561-848-3418 or cell 561-373-3797. Will
> also consider a trade for a flying RV6 or RV4. Must have 180hp and c/s
prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
That's what I was thinking, just didn't know if they would go for say, the
first kit to set the value?
Cash
> Cash,
>
> FWIW, I would rather set the value of my airplane than let them come up
> with
> an inflated value.
>
> Dick White
> RV-8 N94DW
> Newport, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
Hi Bobby,
When the time came to test my tanks I used a tool left over from my auto
business.
I plugged all the tank openings except one; the fuel line out. I then put
the filler cap in place and used a plentiful amount of duct tape to seal
over the filler cap area.
I fit a short length of 3/8" rubber fuel hose to the tank's main fuel supply
line. To this I installed my radiator pressure tester. It happens to have a
3/8" tube that is designed to be used when testing things other than
radiators.
This tool is designed to put low pressure in to fairly large volume areas.
It's gauge reads from 0 to about 20 lbs. pressure.
It was easy to control the pressure.With about 10 or 15 strokes of the
little hand pump some pressure began to show on the gauge. At one and one
half PSI. the tank skins, when looked at carefully, could just be seen to
begin to bulge. When the pressure reached one and one half PSI. I sprayed
soapy water all around the tanks. The only area that formed any bubbles was
around the duct tape. I was and am satisfied that the tanks will not leak.
Some others have used a balloon attached to the vent line fitting as a
safety and to test for longer term (24 hour etc.) pressure retention and I
can not find fault with using that idea.
Average lung pressure might be high enough for tank testing, Does anybody
know what that pressure might be. If one passes gas it's too much I
guess...:-)!
My guess is that lung pressure is somewhat below one and one half PSI..
Avoid using any pressure supply source that is stored at a pressure that is
above the the desired pressure that will be used for actual testing! The
tanks can do more than just leak should the pressure get too high. A friend
found this out the hard way!.
I'm sure that the radiator pressure test pump with the low range and easy to
read gauge allows very safe accurate low pressure control and that is the
main purpose for this post.
It should not be too too hard to rent or borrow one to use for tank testing.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Testing my tank!
>
> Ok, I am ready to test my tank to make sure I don't have any leaks.
> Can someone give me some good sites to tell me how! I've seen a few,
> just need to find them again :-)
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Testing my tank! |
Here's a link that may help:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/leaktest.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
Ok, I am ready to test my tank to make sure I don't have any leaks.
Can someone give me some good sites to tell me how! I've seen a few,
just need to find them again :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV's or Projects around Boston |
Stein,
I'm about an hour south of Boston and not to far along. Just have the horiz.
& Vert. stabilizer done so far. But if your interested your move than
welcome to come on down. Were only 5min from the beach too :)
Rob
Westport, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Panther Electronics Headsets ? |
The website for quiet technologies is:
http://www.quiettechnologies.com/
Sorry I didn't post it yesterday.
Patty Gillies
RV-6 Finishing South Carolina
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panther Electronics Headsets ?
Sounds nice. Are they on-line or do you have pictures?
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 skirts
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty Gillies
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 3:52 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Panther Electronics Headsets ?
>
>
> Scott:
>
> At OSHKOSH I brought headsets from Quiet Technology. I like
> the Panther system only I couldn't deal with only hearing
> through one ear. The Quiet Technology headsets have a mic
> and ear plugs for each ear with no head band. I haven't given
> them a test run in an RV yet, but they have a thirty day full
> refund warranty. I will update the list after testing. They
> sounded good on the ground and are very well made and comfortable.
>
> Patty Gillies
> RV-6 South Carolina
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: the SIX SHOOTER |
The Six Shooter belongs to joe underwood and tom wilmsion in indy.If you can
not recach them contact me at 317-862-2389 John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
> Ok, I am ready to test my tank to make sure I don't have any leaks.
> Can someone give me some good sites to tell me how! I've seen a few,
> just need to find them again :-)
Just hit the archives, big boy. It's all in there. It's a very simple
process. Get some soap bubble stuff and some balloons from the toy
department at your local Wally World (Walmart). Tape down the fuel caps
because they will leak, almost for certain. Put a balloon on the vent line
of the tank. Apply a little bit of air to the fuel line hole via a hose
that's sealed pretty well. Let no more in than it takes to blow up the
balloon a little. It doesn't take much to rip apart those precious seals
you've made with Proseal. Now, take the bubble stuff and brush it on all of
the seams, rivets, etc. and watch for bubbles. Some will go so far as to
let the tank stand for a long while to see if the balloon goes down. I
didn't and found no leaks until long after I started flying mine.
I do have to admit that I have had problems with leaks. I found that mine
may be suffering from sitting outside all the time. The darned Proseal
gasses from the heat and creates bubbles in the paint at the rivets. I
thought they were leaks; but, proved otherwise. I've got a bunch of them
again this year that I have to repair. I think I may also have slow leaks
at the outboard ends of my tanks that have started since I started flying
mine. Why, I don't know, unless having them full puts a lot of pressure on
the outboard ends. That really doesn't make sense. I think it's the heat
since it's at the top of the tanks. Beats me. Anyway, I just fill my tanks
until they're nearly full unless I'm going somewhere. Then, I top them off
and not worry about the slow seep in each one. I use the fuel off before
any seeps off. The bubbles will get shaved off, a drop of CA glue applied
to each to prevent the gassing, and a drop of new paint over each one. It
seems to work! Ah, the life of an aircraft owner. I always have something
that needs fixing. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>
>I wonder if anyone attending OSH has heard anythign about the RV-11, which
>is supposed to be a motorized glider ?
>
I attended Van's RV-10, RV-11 and Beyond forum at OSH. The RV-11 is a
single seat motor glider design that Van has been working on in his
spare time. Tractor engine (80 hp Jabiru) with folding or feathering
prop. Mono wheel main gear that partially retracts. One wheel on
each wing tip so you can taxi if the taxiway is wide enough. He is
shooting for an L/D in the low to mid 30s. He will probably build a
proof of concept prototype for his own use, and then see how much
market interest there is before deciding whether to offer a kit or
not.
If you are interested, let him know.
Now that he has gone public, I would expect to see some details in
the RVator someday.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
Bob,
I sealed up my gas cap (rubber glove over the cap on the inside then close
cap and cover with plastic and duct tape) and screwed a cap over the fuel
line opening. I then used a pump with a gauge tee'd into the line with a
ball valve between the pump and gauge to pressurize throught the vent line.
After pressurizing the tank to 1 psi it was submerged in a friends swimming
pool. I found one small leak in one tank. Took it home, dried and repaired
the leak area, allowed it to set for a couple of days then took it to the
pool again. It passed this time.
I had tried the soapy water and ballon technique first (same gauge and valve
setup) but couldn't find the leak. The leak showed up immediately in the
pool.
Vince Welch
>From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List , RV7and7A
>
>Subject: RV-List: Testing my tank!
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:01:36 -0500
>
>
>Ok, I am ready to test my tank to make sure I don't have any leaks.
>Can someone give me some good sites to tell me how! I've seen a few,
>just need to find them again :-)
>
>--
>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking For Advice |
| From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
I retire Friday, and I=B9m looking for a place to move with a hot-bed of
RV activity and support. Would like it to be in a state with no income taxes
& airplane friendly. Am building a RV7A with empennage complete.
Thanks
Tom Brandon
majortom(at)apex.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
For those of you interested, here is some information from the RV-10
Forum at Oshkosh.
Wing Span: 31.5'
Length: 24'
Gross Weight: 2700
Empty Weight: 1600
Useful Load: 1100
Fuel: 60 Gallons
Engine IO-540 260HP Parallel Valve
Performance: Similar to 180 HP RV-7/7A
Cabin:
Gull Wing doors on both sides, with one baggage door on one side.
Contrls will be conventional between-the-knees sticks for both sides.
Removable rear seatbacks will allow 2 people to travel with lots of
baggage. There will be headroom for persons up to at least 6'4".
No tailwheel or retract is planned.
Kits will be matched hole, like the 7-9. The fuselage will be modular:
the tailcone, forward fuselage, and cabin can be built separately and
then joined together. There are quickbuild kits planned.
Price: Quote from Van himself, "30 ish" Nothing more was said about
price, other than it will be "affordable"
Ken said the goal was to have a flying prototype at Oshkosh next year.
He emhasized, that it was only a goal. Could be sooner, could be later.
Best estimate for kits to ship will be "after the prototype is
thoroughly tested".
The forum was very imformative. Included was overheads of skeletal
drawings, and design discussion. Actual prototype drawings were shared
with the group. Should be very promising for those of us waiting on a
4-seater.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Sold) (Waiting on RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking For Advice |
Howdy Tom,
There sure seem to be a lot of RV's down in this neck of the woods. (SE
Texas). There are several hangars full of them at hooks (DWH). And if what
you are looking for is a 'Hot' bed then this is the place for you. There
are no state income taxes (despite Gov. George W. Bush's best efforts).
There are many air parks around Houston and Austin and I would consider the
place pretty 'Airplane Friendly.' We have lost two Houston airports in
recent memory and neither was because of the NIMBYs or the noise police,
both were simply real-estate deals, one may be saved yet. Did I mention
that winter only lasts about 72 hours around here? Besides you'd be living
in Texas, and what could be better than that.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
Fuselage
Airplanes never win battles with the ground. The best the airplane can hope
for is a draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Brandon" <majortom(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Looking For Advice
>
> I retire Friday, and I=B9m looking for a place to move with a hot-bed
of
> RV activity and support. Would like it to be in a state with no income
taxe> s
> & airplane friendly. Am building a RV7A with empennage complete.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Brandon
>
> majortom(at)apex.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking For Advice |
Arizona has everything you would ever want, except a beach. But, with an
RV, a beach isn't far away. RV's are all over the state, in various stages
of construction and dozens flying.
The taxes I can't help you with, though.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Brandon" <majortom(at)apex.net>
Subject: RV-List: Looking For Advice
>
> I retire Friday, and I=B9m looking for a place to move with a hot-bed
of
> RV activity and support. Would like it to be in a state with no income
taxe> s
> & airplane friendly. Am building a RV7A with empennage complete.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Brandon
>
> majortom(at)apex.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
| Subject: | Looking For Advice |
Tom -- Calgary, Alberta, for sure. No sales tax, the prospect of no
provincial income tax in the near future, and soon, no provincial debt. A
small, but growing RV community. Some great local suppliers. Very
inexpensive, particularly if you're pension is being paid in US dollars.
Enough oil and gas to last the next 10,000 years. OK, I may be a little
biased, there, but we have a ton of the stuff. Now, if we could just do
something about the seven months of winter, we'd be laughing. ;-)
Seriously, though, Tom, happy retirement! Best regards...
Terry in Calgary (Where Else?)
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Brandon [mailto:majortom(at)apex.net]
Subject: RV-List: Looking For Advice
I retire Friday, and I=B9m looking for a place to move with a hot-bed of
RV activity and support. Would like it to be in a state with no income taxes &
airplane friendly. Am building a RV7A with empennage complete.
Thanks
Tom Brandon
majortom(at)apex.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
Bobby,
I used the monometer method along with a spray bottle
with soapy water for redundancy and had excellent
results. One tip I have is to go the the hardware
store and buy some little corks that will fit into
your fuel pickup tube and vent tube fittings. I tried
the balloon route and found the corks much simpler. I
didn't have to do anything to seal the fuel cap. To
pressurize I blew into the drain fitting(with my
mouth) with everything else plugged. I measured the
tank pressure with a monometer and had about 4 ft of
water head pressure. This equates to a couple of PSI
which you will find is a lot of pressure ( 2-3 PSI
recommended by an A&P). It bulges the skin out pretty
dramatically between the ribs. This is about the
maximum pressure you can blow into the tank with your
mouth.
There are several RV7 sites that show a monometer but
I used a 10 ft piece of 3/8 clear tubing press fit
over a 1/4 piece of aluminum tubing. The other end of
the tubing was then flared and the fitting for the
vent tube was used to attach it to the tank. Then I
ran the tube down about four feet below the tank and
then up about six feet. Then I used a turkey baster
to fill the bottom of the tube with water.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Coeur d'Alene, ID
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking For Advice |
--- Tom Brandon wrote:
>
> I retire Friday, and I=B9m looking for a place to move with a
> hot-bed of
> RV activity and support. Would like it to be in a state with no
> income taxe> s
> & airplane friendly. Am building a RV7A with empennage complete.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Brandon
Tom,
I don't think there is any question that Central Texas is where you
want to be. Austin, specifically. Chapter 187 is rife (maybe that's
not the best word) with RVs. We have a little problem with hangar
space, but there are alternatives and the FAA may be forcing something
on the city pretty soon.
Consider:
- Great flying weather
- Great geographical location-be anywhere in the US in a day in your RV
- No income tax
- Home of the late Tony Bingelis (translate to a large experience base)
and very knowledgeable/helpful people (as are all EAAers)
- Seems like every new chapter member is building or looking at an RV
All of this IMNSHO (In My Not So Humble Opinion)...
Mike Thompson (Chapter Prez)
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
FWF
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Low Cost Borescope |
This idea won't let you see in the cyl's but is good to observe air frame
condition (like inside wings etc.). Get one of those USB PC cameras
(i.e.Intel PC camera). I use it with my Laptop and take pictures at
condition inspection. Cheep, focuses very close.
jmw
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Wessel [mailto:robin.wessel(at)verizon.net]
Subject: RV-List: Low Cost Borescope
I am about to conduct my first annual for my RV-6A (225 hrs). One item
that I am interested in getting is a low cost borescope. I spoke with a
pricey borescope dealer at OSH and was impressed by the diagnostic
capabilities that it can provide. Speaking with the borescope booth guys
at OSH convinced me that it does not take a rocket scientist to
determine if something looks funny inside your cylinders or airframe.
Does anyone have experience with these low cost borescopes? The two that
come to mind are the $169 HarborFreight model and the $200 (spruce)
Provision100. Considering that the pro models cost $1000 and up, I am a
bit scheptical of the quality that a sub $200 can provide. Am I about to
buy a cheap piece of junk?
thanks,
robin wessel
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
I thought this was interesting. These were the starts (tailkits sold)
and flying aircraft (as reported by builders to Van) This was from their RV
4/8 talk at Arlington... The flying aircraft numbers look a little low to
me. I guess there is no good way to know for sure. Van has always been
conservative. They are selling 1000 tail kits a year with half of all kits
being sold as quickbuilds. They sell 35-40 quickbuilds a month, limited to
that only because they can't produce any more. The have recently started to
produce qb's in the Czech Republic to get the production rate up. The
quickbuild kits can also be purchased as a qb wing and standard fuse, or qb
fuse and standard wing kit. They also can produce a qb fuse for you if you
already have purchased a standard wing kit. Your match drilled center
section is shipped over to produce a fuse that fits your wings.
Model Starts Flying
3 1300 200
4 4553 1116
5 1 1 (did fly at one time, now hanging in
the rafters)
6 6500 1502
7 929 4
8 1803 215
9 570 16
10 1 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DavidAWilks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/29/02 |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Bonesteel" <rv8tor3(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Flap hinge pin quesiton... |
300 series Stainless steel is NOT magnetic 400 series is.
Stainless steel is not magnetic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gyro Instruments |
I have read several comments about RC Allen but have seen very little about
Sigmatek. Aside from the Sigmatek vacuum gyros being slightly more
expensive do you guys have any other comments pro or con?
I have been following the Dynon vs EFIS Lite debate and would love to use
one of those units BUT I don't think I have the time to wait for one of them
to establish a track record. If I have to change a vacuum pump every three
to five years so be it. I am building a day/night VFR bird so vacuum
failure is not catastrophic.
I would like to compare the RC Allen and the Sigmatek vacuum units.
Vince Welch
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Cutter Tool |
Did or does any one that attented Oshkosh last week buy or have any
information on the guy selling a oil filter cutting tool, I can't remember
what building he was in but I think it was building A, this tool was a little
pricey but a real slick unit. It had a holder that held the filter, to cut
the can and a cutter that cut the element. I forgot to go back and get his
name and phone number. If any one has this information please post it
Thanks in advance
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gear Legs |
John,
I had the original undrilled gear on my kit also. It's hard to find good
instruction on how they are supposed to be aligned but after some digging
around I found an old builder through Van's that supplied me with the
procedure that worked.
1. Raise the plane up into level flight attitude.
2. Clamp the aft side of the spindles to a straight edge that reaches both
spindles, I used a piece of 6"x6" oak that had been run trough a 12' table
jointer. If your friend has a machine shop I'd ask him for a long heavy
piece of angle to use for this.
3. With the spindles clamped to be perfectly parallel adjust the hight until
they are even then drill them.
My plane handles nice on the ground and is very stable. Even wheel landings
are stable. I have no dampening built into the gear and have not had any
shimmy problems or bad tire wear.
Pat P
>From: "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Gear Legs
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 17:48:47 -0400
>
>
>Hello Listers;
>Has anyone ever aligned the gear legs of a -4 for drilling? My original
>drilled ones were very bad for alignment.
>
>I am replacing mine and I can think of no way that I can put weight on the
>legs with them not drilled. Is there a known location with no weight on
>them that will result in a good alignment? I have made a great stand for
>the motor mount that is holding the gear about wheel height.
>I plan on transfer punching the legs and having them drilled at a friends
>machine shop.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
>
>
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gyro Instruments |
Vince,
I have Sigmatek guros in my 6. They have 550 hours on them with a
lot of aerobatics, including some spins, on them.
I'm just starting to get some precession on the DG which means an
overhaul in the future. I'm debating taking them out and just
forgeting about gyros all together since I don't fly IFR. (I'll have
a wing leveler soon).
I hope Dynon works out. Sure looked good at the booth.
Anyway, I'm satified with the performance and life.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
(just back from Oshkosh)
>
>
>I have read several comments about RC Allen but have seen very little about
>Sigmatek. Aside from the Sigmatek vacuum gyros being slightly more
>expensive do you guys have any other comments pro or con?
>
>I have been following the Dynon vs EFIS Lite debate and would love to use
>one of those units BUT I don't think I have the time to wait for one of them
>to establish a track record. If I have to change a vacuum pump every three
>to five years so be it. I am building a day/night VFR bird so vacuum
>failure is not catastrophic.
>
>I would like to compare the RC Allen and the Sigmatek vacuum units.
>
>Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Cutter Tool |
Yes, it was a bit pricey. If I remember correctly the all up price was
about $400. Great for an FBO, to steep for me.
Bruce
Glasair III
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Oil Filter Cutter Tool
Did or does any one that attented Oshkosh last week buy or have any
information on the guy selling a oil filter cutting tool, I can't
remember
what building he was in but I think it was building A, this tool was a
little
pricey but a real slick unit. It had a holder that held the filter, to
cut
the can and a cutter that cut the element. I forgot to go back and get
his
name and phone number. If any one has this information please post it
Thanks in advance
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
> I used the monometer method along with a spray bottle
> with soapy water for redundancy and had excellent
> results. One tip I have is to go the the hardware
> store and buy some little corks that will fit into
> your fuel pickup tube and vent tube fittings. I tried
> the balloon route and found the corks much simpler. I
The manometer method seems to be the most straightforward. Although, I'd
advise going one step further (than corks) and getting the AN fitting to
seal off the vent line fitting. It's cheap and it works without doubt.
AN924-4D for the vent
AN924-6D for the fuel pickup
Fuelube 'em up and they seal like a charm. I had to duct tape over my fuel
cap...couldn't get it to seal perfectly no matter how tight or how lubed.
Other than that, no leaks.
Pictures:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020710.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Andrews" <rv8apilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron / flap squeeze
>
> scott,
>
> another good way to fix this problem is to just adjust the flap down a
half
> turn on the wing heavy side. you get the same results and it's barely
> noticeable.
>
> - jim
> rv8a.tripod.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron / flap squeeze
>
>
> >
> > hi listers
> > my buddy lees rv doen't fly level even after we squeezed every bit out
of
> the
> > light aileron. has anyone squeezed the flap to acheive wings level
flight,
> so
> > no tab would be used?
> > scott
> > tampa
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
Is it possible to adjust the angle of incidence on the RV's to compensate a
"heavy wing"?
From a watching, reading, wannabe RV builder, maybe.
Jerry
> another good way to fix this problem is to just adjust the flap down a
half
> turn on the wing heavy side. you get the same results and it's barely
> noticeable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
DON'T LISTEN TO ME!!!
I meant:
AN929-4D for the vent
AN929-6D for the fuel pickup
Yoiks!
)_( Dan
> The manometer method seems to be the most straightforward. Although, I'd
> advise going one step further (than corks) and getting the AN fitting to
> seal off the vent line fitting. It's cheap and it works without doubt.
>
> AN924-4D for the vent
> AN924-6D for the fuel pickup
>
> Fuelube 'em up and they seal like a charm. I had to duct tape over my
fuel
> cap...couldn't get it to seal perfectly no matter how tight or how lubed.
> Other than that, no leaks.
>
> Pictures:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20020710.html
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Gear Legs |
Thanks Pat. That's what I did today. I hope it works out. My original
predrilled ones were afful for tire wear.
John Kitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gyro Instruments |
Vince,
I will pass on my anecdotal experience for the record. I have always had
Sigma Tek gyros, in fact I have had them in my RV-4 since 1990, still
working normally after a lot of aerobatics, etc. Never had them out. I
also have them in my RV-6 that just flew recently. No problems. I have had
no experience with RC Allens, but have always heard they are not as good as
the Sigma Teks. I am sure there will be those who disagree, however.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Flying
>From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Gyro Instruments
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 11:56:53 -0400
>
>
>I have read several comments about RC Allen but have seen very little about
>Sigmatek. Aside from the Sigmatek vacuum gyros being slightly more
>expensive do you guys have any other comments pro or con?
>
>I have been following the Dynon vs EFIS Lite debate and would love to use
>one of those units BUT I don't think I have the time to wait for one of
>them
>to establish a track record. If I have to change a vacuum pump every three
>to five years so be it. I am building a day/night VFR bird so vacuum
>failure is not catastrophic.
>
>I would like to compare the RC Allen and the Sigmatek vacuum units.
>
>
>Vince Welch
>
>http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs TT
0-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, Flying
0-360, Hartzell C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | aileron / flap squeeze |
I, very successfully used two Ram Mount suction cups to unsqueez a heavy
aileron. One suction cup on the top, the other one on the bottom. I
introduced a little "out" or "bulge" pucker. You could not visually
detect it, the paint and light lines were not disturbed.
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
You might want to double check that there isn't some kind of mis-rigging
of
the airplane. Just slightly squeezing the aileron makes such a big
difference that I find it hard to believe it won't work unless there is
something wrong aerodynamically. You can also try "unsqueezing" the
other
aileron by putting a block of wood against the trailing edge and *very
lightly* tapping it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
Just to add my tank testing experience.
I, too used a water manometer made of clear 3/8" vinyl tubing attached
to a plywood board with cable ties and with the water tinted with food
coloring. Air source was lungs to a maximum pressure of about 34" of
water or about 1.7 psi.
Had leaks from tank filler area in spite of various combinations of duct
tape and plastic.
The solution I found for the filler leaks was a 2" plumber's "Test
Ball" that I obtained from a plumbing supply. It is a rubber ball with a
"Shrader" stem like the air filler stem on your automobile or bicycle
tires. You insert it in the tank filler neck and add air pressure. It
expands into the filler neck and seals it very tight.
After correcting leaks detected by soapy water at one of the BNC
fittings (for the capacitive fuel gauge) and at one rivet, the manometer
showed only movement that correlated with temperature change (including
pressure increase with temperature increase). At the end of 34 hours,
the pressure was slightly higher than at the start (by .5 in. of water)
convincing me that there were no significant leaks remaining.
Hope some of this is of help.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A wiring panel
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
> > I used the monometer method along with a spray bottle
> > with soapy water for redundancy and had excellent
> > results. One tip I have is to go the the hardware
> > store and buy some little corks that will fit into
> > your fuel pickup tube and vent tube fittings. I tried
> > the balloon route and found the corks much simpler. I
>
> The manometer method seems to be the most straightforward. Although, I'd
> advise going one step further (than corks) and getting the AN fitting to
> seal off the vent line fitting. It's cheap and it works without doubt.
>
> AN924-4D for the vent
> AN924-6D for the fuel pickup
>
> Fuelube 'em up and they seal like a charm. I had to duct tape over my fuel
> cap...couldn't get it to seal perfectly no matter how tight or how lubed.
> Other than that, no leaks.
>
> Pictures:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20020710.html
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
I would check to see that the flaps are symetrical. If
one is lower than the other it would make the airplane
fly like you had a heavy wing. the other thing to
check is the stabilizer to see that it is square to
the airplane. If it is not you can add a shim to the
side that is low to bring it up square. the last thing
to check is the rudder and see if it is straight and
not cocked to the right or left. After all is neutral
then squeeze or unsqueeze an aileron. if it still does
not fly straight, pull the ailerons from the aircraft
and put them on a measured flat table and see if you
built in some curvature. If this is the case you may
have to de-rivet and rebuild them to ensure they are
straight. (this may require new parts)
good luck
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Texas
--- P M Condon wrote:
>
>
> I, very successfully used two Ram Mount suction cups
> to unsqueez a heavy
> aileron. One suction cup on the top, the other one
> on the bottom. I
> introduced a little "out" or "bulge" pucker. You
> could not visually
> detect it, the paint and light lines were not
> disturbed.
>
>
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>
>
> You might want to double check that there isn't some
> kind of mis-rigging
> of
> the airplane. Just slightly squeezing the aileron
> makes such a big
> difference that I find it hard to believe it won't
> work unless there is
> something wrong aerodynamically. You can also try
> "unsqueezing" the
> other
> aileron by putting a block of wood against the
> trailing edge and *very
> lightly* tapping it.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | CA taxes (Tax Avoidance) |
One way to avoid or side-step a potential tax liability is to ORGINALLY
register your aircraft out of state, wait 12 months or so and submit a
change of address. When the FAA sends the new list of regrestered
aircraft to all the states, the state where where you ORGINALLY
regerstered will not have a tax file on you or a SSN or anything of
merrit. Other then the address you used, you have no tax liability to
that state. When you wait 12 months or so and submit a change of
address, there is no 'new regrestration' involved. A very close,
personal friend who I see every day (when I shave and brush my teeth)
regrestered his plane in another state, at his sisters house, then
proceeded to submit a change of address form in 12 months. He did this
on the last 5 or 6 aircraft he owned.......I think he called this tax
avoidance, not tax evasion. Your mileage may vary, but in NJ, this
works......or so I am told...
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Tom,
The finance company probably filed a lien with the FAA with the dollar
amount of your note. That's how the CA tax leaches came up with the
correct amount. The FAA sends data tapes monthly to all 50 states with
any transactions for that particular state in the given month.
For those that are ready to submit their FAA registration forms
including the Bill of Sale. Don't put a dollar figure in the requested
spot. It's optional and the FAA doesn't care BUT your state of residence
sure will.
Bruce
Glasair III
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gyro Instruments |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Vince,
I like the visual presentation of RC Allen better, but since I got the sigma
by mistake I am very impressed with its durability and tolerance for my
gentlemanly aerobatics. It can withstand several consecutive loops or
clover leafs without losing its erection at all. Same with the DG. I can
definitely recommend the Sigma AI, based on my sample test of one, built 7
years ago, if that is worth anything..
When I built my RV-6A in 1992-1997, I installed a sigma tech att ind and an
RC Allen DG. After 1025 hours and pretty steady aerobatics , they are both
still operational with no problems. My pump is a rebuilt ordinary
(Airborne?) thingy from Spruce and the turn and bank is a rebuilt 12V from
one of those shops in Kansas which rebuilds such things (Kelly or Century)
. My fittings are mostly plastic barb things from the hardware store and my
line is radiator hose in front and clear neoprene in the cockpit.
Despite all the cautions I received, they are still churning away.....
Perhaps because they get regular exercise. Oh yes I forgot to mention I let
the gyros sit for a year or so in my garage before I fired them up.
I was expecting to have to replace them all a couple years ago. All I can
deduce is that the "newer generation" of gyros have a far better life span
than the old, but can get no one to confirm this. The other factor is a dry
climate here in Denver?
Denis
> From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:10:22 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gyro Instruments
>
>
> Vince,
>
> I have Sigmatek guros in my 6. They have 550 hours on them with a
> lot of aerobatics, including some spins, on them.
>
> I'm just starting to get some precession on the DG which means an
> overhaul in the future. I'm debating taking them out and just
> forgeting about gyros all together since I don't fly IFR. (I'll have
> a wing leveler soon).
>
> I hope Dynon works out. Sure looked good at the booth.
>
> Anyway, I'm satified with the performance and life.
>
> Laird
> RV-6 SoCal
> (just back from Oshkosh)
>
>>
>>
>> I have read several comments about RC Allen but have seen very little about
>> Sigmatek. Aside from the Sigmatek vacuum gyros being slightly more
>> expensive do you guys have any other comments pro or con?
>>
>> I have been following the Dynon vs EFIS Lite debate and would love to use
>> one of those units BUT I don't think I have the time to wait for one of them
>> to establish a track record. If I have to change a vacuum pump every three
>> to five years so be it. I am building a day/night VFR bird so vacuum
>> failure is not catastrophic.
>>
>> I would like to compare the RC Allen and the Sigmatek vacuum units.
>>
>> Vince Welch
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
>
>Is it possible to adjust the angle of incidence on the RV's to compensate a
>"heavy wing"?
>From a watching, reading, wannabe RV builder, maybe.
>Jerry
>
Jerry,
The angle of incidence is set when the rear spar is drilled to the
carry through structure in the fuselage. So, it is set for life.
I've heard of some other aircraft that have some sort of eccentric
gizmo at the rear spar so incidence can be adjusted, but that would
require a larger hole for the eccentric widget to fit into, and I
doubt there would be enough edge distance to allow that.
Have you had an RV ride yet? There are probably RVers in your area
who would be happy to infect you with the disease :)
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 8th RV FORUM KFZY 9/7/02 |
2002 RV Forum
Oswego Co. KFZY
at EAA 486 Fulton NY
Hopefully by now you have heard about this.
As well you Nor-Easters (OH, PA, NY, CT, MD, and Canada) have gotten the flyers
in your mail?.
While it is a whole weekend long event..........
The technical forums are held on Saturday September 7th, 2002.
RV Forum includes Mike Seager RV instruction for those builders who are close to
flying.
As in the past, weather dependant, there will be other rides offered for joy riders.
Please pre-register ASAP!! It helps us plan much better.
SO GO TO:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
Contact information and details explained there.
Thanks for your support.
David McManmon
RV 6 N58DM flying
President, EAA 486
McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
Guys,
When dealing with a wing heavy condition on a new plane you should ALWAYS
first check that your ailerons are mounted level before squeezing anything.
Stick a couple of keys, or whatever it takes to match the gap, between the
aileron and the top wing skin at the outside edges. The gap should match on
both ends, and also relative to the other side. I had a wing heavy at first
and asked Jerry Vangrunsven to tweak my aileron trailing edges. He came over
and inspected them and pronounced them "too perfect to touch" and left. A
few days later a conversation with another builder about it caused me to
check the aileron mounting height via the above method. I discovered the
outboard edge of the left aileron was about 1/8" too high. I removed the
wingtip, redrilled a new bracket (well, actually two new ones to get it
right) and voila, it flew hands off with even fuel.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 321 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron / flap squeeze
>
> >
> >Is it possible to adjust the angle of incidence on the RV's to compensate
a
> >"heavy wing"?
> >From a watching, reading, wannabe RV builder, maybe.
> >Jerry
> >
>
> Jerry,
>
> The angle of incidence is set when the rear spar is drilled to the
> carry through structure in the fuselage. So, it is set for life.
>
> I've heard of some other aircraft that have some sort of eccentric
> gizmo at the rear spar so incidence can be adjusted, but that would
> require a larger hole for the eccentric widget to fit into, and I
> doubt there would be enough edge distance to allow that.
>
> Have you had an RV ride yet? There are probably RVers in your area
> who would be happy to infect you with the disease :)
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <rmd-mcse(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Cost Borescope |
I have used both the Harbor Freight model and a $2500 one at work. I would
use the cheap one to look for missing or loose fasteners, and "major"
cracks. If you are looking for small cracks, you need one of the expensive
ones. The difference between the 2 is largely do to the high powered light
source, and of course the higher quality fiber optics (no distortion).
Having one that is flexible is nice also.
There are companies around that you can rent the good ones from.
Bob
>
>I am about to conduct my first annual for my RV-6A (225 hrs). One item
>that I am interested in getting is a low cost borescope. I spoke with a
>pricey borescope dealer at OSH and was impressed by the diagnostic
>capabilities that it can provide. Speaking with the borescope booth guys
>at OSH convinced me that it does not take a rocket scientist to
>determine if something looks funny inside your cylinders or airframe.
>
>Does anyone have experience with these low cost borescopes? The two that
>come to mind are the $169 HarborFreight model and the $200 (spruce)
>Provision100. Considering that the pro models cost $1000 and up, I am a
>bit scheptical of the quality that a sub $200 can provide. Am I about to
>buy a cheap piece of junk?
>
>thanks,
>
>robin wessel
>Tigard, OR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV6A Engine Mounts |
RV-Listers - this exchange is self-explanatory, but I thought it would be
interesting, and something for the archives. This has been kicked around
before, but never explained as clearly as this has been. Hope it helps
someone.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: <TThomas(at)BCAS.com>
Subject: RE: RV6A Engine Mounts
> Hello John,
>
> Engine sag occurs as a result of elastomer creep, which occurs when a
load
> is placed on the elastomer causing it to "flow". The amount of creep
follows
> a curve, with most of it occurring very soon after the load is first
applied
> and tapering off to almost nothing in a relatively short period of time.
> This phenomenon is an attribute of elastomer and occurs to all makes and
> models of isolators.
>
> Creep can be reduced by making the elastomer stiffer (higher spring
rate),
> however this makes the elastomer much less effective at reducing vibration
> in the range of frequencies that an average aircraft piston engine runs.
As
> with anything in engineering, you sometimes have to make compromises to
> achieve your goals and this is one of those cases.
>
> Some general aviation isolators are designed with one molded assembly
> stiffer than the other, the stiffer molded assembly is intended to take
the
> load of the engine when the aircraft is on the ground. The stiffer molded
> assembly will have one or more shims molded into the middle of them, which
> changes the shape factor of the part and increases the spring rate. The
> shims can be seen when looking at the molded assembly from the side, they
> appear to be a rib(s) running parallel to the end faces.
>
> Sag was less of a problem years ago, as most production aircraft had
rather
> loosely fitted cowlings that allowed some engine deflection without
> contacting the cowling. In order to increase aircraft performance (and
> reduce drag), homebuilt aircraft designers have made the cowlings much
> tighter, with much less allowance for engine deflection.
>
> One fix that has worked well for other homebuilders is to put shims
between
> the isolators and the engine mount to prop up the engine. This is done
once
> the mounts have been in service a month or two, which allows the mounts to
> creep down a majority of the way. Like I said before, the creep really
> tapers off after a short period of time in service.
>
> The only other way to reduce creep in elastomer engine isolators is to
> raise the stiffness of the elastomer. Very stiff isolators are made for
some
> aerobatic aircraft, with shimmed molded assemblies being installed on both
> sides. The major drawback to this is a big reduction in isolation, making
> the aircraft uncomfortable for cross-country and pleasure flying. We have
> been informed that some aerobatic and air-racing people are manufacturing
> their own hard plastic assemblies to replace the isolators, since their
main
> concern is keeping the engine from deflecting. This is a really extreme
> measure and should not be considered for any use other than some type of
> competition flying. The effects of the transmitted vibration can cause
> damage to the airframe and avionics.
>
> I hope I haven't put you to sleep yet. Let me know if I can be of further
> assistance.
>
> Todd Thomas
> Manager, Technical Support
> Barry Controls Aerospace
> Phone: (818) 973-2524
> FAX: (818) 845-6978
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John [SMTP:n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:51 AM
> > To: TThomas(at)BCAS.com
> > Subject: Re: RV6A Engine Mounts
> >
> > I had stopped by your booth and talked to your representative regarding
> > the
> > Barry engine mounts, isolators, that Van's Aircraft was (and probably
> > still
> > is) supplying with his RV kits.
> >
> > The question regards why the Barry (and likely other makes) mounts tend
to
> > sag after a relative short period of operation. I have looked at many
RV's
> > and see the sag on most of them. One experienced mechanic from Canada
> > claimed he never had an engine sag because he hung the engine above the
> > mounts, and "jostled' the engine as he was attaching the mounts.
> >
> > Even one of Van's newer models, I believe it was the RV-8, showed
engine
> > sag.
> >
> > Why? How can it be avoided? Is the problem one of installation? Yes, I
> > know
> > there is a front and back on the mounts, so that is not the problem. Any
> > information would be appreciated and put on the "RV net" where about
1,000
> > RV owners, builders, and dreamers participate in such discussions.
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > John Fasching
> > n1cx0320(at)salidaco.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <TThomas(at)BCAS.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:51 AM
> > Subject: RV6A Engine Mounts
> >
> >
> > > Dear Mr. Fasching,
> > >
> > > It was a pleasure meeting you in Oshkosh last week. I have a few
notes
> > on
> > > the back of a business card regarding mount "sag" on several RV's in
> > your
> > > area. Could you please remind me of the particular details and what we
> > can
> > > do to assist you.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Todd Thomas
> > > Manager, Technical Support
> > > Barry Controls Aerospace
> > > Phone: (818) 973-2524
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Lycoming IO-390 X engine |
List,
Does anyone have more info on the new lycoming IO-390
X engine? Will it fit the same engine mounts as the
IO-360? Will Van sell it? How much?
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Coeur d'Alene, ID
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming IO-390 X engine |
Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming IO-390 X engine
> Does anyone have more info on the new lycoming IO-390
> X engine? Will it fit the same engine mounts as the
> IO-360? Will Van sell it? How much?
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
Ross: Lycoming apparently intends to make the parts for the IO-390 engine
available to Monty Barrett of Tulsa, OK for buildup into IO-390A1B6 engines
for the experimental market. Whether anyone besides Barrett will be able to
do this was not said. I talked to Barrett and a Lycoming rep at the
Lycoming tent about it so it is likely to happen. There appears to be
enough interest in such an engine to make it worthwhile. All parts will be
factory new. The extra displacement comes from the cylinders that were
developed for the IO-580 which is now certificated. Their printed material
says Lyc expects type certification in 2004 so I don't know where that would
leave Barrett at that time but likely his services as an assembler would end
at that time. The engines will have counterweighted cranks and will be
rated at 210hp. The extra displacement results from a change in cylinder
bore. Stroke, cyl spacing and other elements stay the same as the
IO-360A1B6. I don't know if the counterweights are the same as the 360 or
if they are slightly heavier because of the heavier pistons. The engine
should weigh about 10 pounds more than the 360. The crankcases will have a
pad for a front mounted prop governor. My memory fails me on the price. It
was to be either $30,700 or $31,700. Should be a direct interchange with
the angle valve 360. I should have the flyer in hand in a few days. It is
en route from Oshkosh via Parcel Post.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
results, which is somewhat comforting.
One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
my fingers.
So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
> started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
> distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
> moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
> the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
> varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
> to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
> is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
>
> Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
> should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
> to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
> how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
> results, which is somewhat comforting.
>
> One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
> between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
> the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
> the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
> of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
> use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
> depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
> variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
> my fingers.
>
> So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
> interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
>
With no power to it there should be no force. There is no friction on
mine
when the power is off. With the wingleveler turned on it is still easy
to override in flight.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
Kevin, I am relying on memory here but I think you either have a
defective servo, or more likely, for some reason the solenoid has not
released the gear drive/motor from the arm.
In my plane, there is no servo drag when the servo is turned off. I
suggest you call Navaid in the morning and they should be able to
quickly determine if there is a problem with the servo. If you want to
pop the cover off the servo, you will see the solenoid that should
release the arm from the drive when there is no power applied to the
servo. It may be that the solenoid is stuck in the "engaged" position,
and simply needs to be, ah, "un-stuck". Sounds like you may be driving
the gears when you move the arm.
By the way, I used the Navaid extensively while negotiating scuddy skies
on the return from OSH. I have always been hesitant to use the Navaid in
much turbulence since the RV-6 is under-damped in yaw stability, and the
Navaid has a tendency to initiate small dutch-roll motions as a result
of the lack of yaw stability.
However, I persisted with the use of the Navaid in heading,
wing-leveler, and course mode in light turbulence because it was so
convenient to have it engaged while I fiddled with the really cool
Anywhere Map as I used the "Turn" knob to skirt around TFRs and
controlled airspace in limited visibility. I found that after some
acclimation, the "Navaid Wiggle" was soon forgotten and the unit was a
valuable companion on the four hour trip in conditions worse than I had
previously flown the Navaid.
Sam Buchanan
======================
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
> started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
> distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
> moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
> the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
> varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
> to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
> is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
>
> Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
> should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
> to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
> how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
> results, which is somewhat comforting.
>
> One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
> between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
> the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
> the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
> of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
> use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
> depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
> variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
> my fingers.
>
> So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
> interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
Kevin
My navaid servo had next to NO friction with the power removed.
the servo had internally a latching mechanism by means of an electro
magnet that released the servo arm mechanism from the motor gearing when
the power was off.
If you have the same servo as I have, the mechanism might not be
disengaging.
gert
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
> started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
> distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
> moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
> the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
> varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
> to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
> is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
>
> Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
> should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
> to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
> how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
> results, which is somewhat comforting.
>
> One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
> between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
> the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
> the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
> of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
> use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
> depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
> variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
> my fingers.
>
> So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
> interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
Kevin,
With the wing leveler in the "OFF" mode, you should have no friction at all.
I'm not sure what the breakout force is with it on, but I do know that with
the unit off, I had no friction at all. It just rotates freely.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Sold)
Glastar (Empennage)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV-List: Navaid wing leveler servo friction
>
> I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
> started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
> distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
> moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
> the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
> varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
> to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
> is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
>
> Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
> should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
> to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
> how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
> results, which is somewhat comforting.
>
> One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
> between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
> the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
> the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
> of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
> use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
> depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
> variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
> my fingers.
>
> So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
> interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil filter cutter tool |
I bought an exhaust pipe cutter from Harbor Freight Tools for $9.95 to cut
filters. It is like a visegrip with a chain and roller cutters. Not really
slick looking,but it works.
Bob Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hal merritt" <merritthal(at)hotmail.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: bigger engines in RVs |
In a message dated 07/26/2002 1:53:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jabiru22(at)yahoo.com.au writes:
>
> what about a turbo 360?
>
The LOM M337CE is a 250 HP supercharged aircraft engine.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
hole the few times I've used it.
The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
square holes?
How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
Hi Larry:
Go to http://www.solanopilots.com/new_page_7.htm
and choose "instrument panel using a router" . I have used one successfully
to cut all of my complex holes. Found the circle cutter to work just fine
as long as you have material held down real good. The router method
requires exact templates that are easy enough to fabricate.
Good luck
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Fairings eccccccch.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
> What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> hole the few times I've used it.
>
> The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> square holes?
>
> How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
hole the few times I've used it.
The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
square holes?
How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
-------------------------------------------------
Hi Larry
I had reasonably good luck using the fly cutter to cut the round holes in
the instrument panel.
I made a bushing for the fly cutter center drill bit to fit into so that fly
cutter was supported at top and bottom and didn't wobble quite so much.
Cut 3/4 inch plywood to fit on drill press table and held down with
countersunk bolts, then fitted 1/8 inch aluminum plate on top with silicone
glue. Aluminum plate had a hole for fly cutter center drill bit to fit
through. Crude setup but it helped and the idea could be improved upon.
Clamp everything down when using fly cutter so hands are well clear.
Square holes for my rocker switches involved a file and lots of elbow
grease.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler servo friction |
Sam, Good idea! Thanks to the help of Pat Hatch and Stec Tech's the
solenoid was determined to be the reason my Alt. Hld. wasn't engaging.
It had a small burr I removed and now it works as advertised! My
Stec Alt. Hld. and also Navaid have no noticeable drag when powered off.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid wing leveler servo friction
>
> Kevin, I am relying on memory here but I think you either have a
> defective servo, or more likely, for some reason the solenoid has not
> released the gear drive/motor from the arm.
>
> In my plane, there is no servo drag when the servo is turned off. I
> suggest you call Navaid in the morning and they should be able to
> quickly determine if there is a problem with the servo. If you want to
> pop the cover off the servo, you will see the solenoid that should
> release the arm from the drive when there is no power applied to the
> servo. It may be that the solenoid is stuck in the "engaged" position,
> and simply needs to be, ah, "un-stuck". Sounds like you may be driving
> the gears when you move the arm.
>
> By the way, I used the Navaid extensively while negotiating scuddy skies
> on the return from OSH. I have always been hesitant to use the Navaid in
> much turbulence since the RV-6 is under-damped in yaw stability, and the
> Navaid has a tendency to initiate small dutch-roll motions as a result
> of the lack of yaw stability.
>
> However, I persisted with the use of the Navaid in heading,
> wing-leveler, and course mode in light turbulence because it was so
> convenient to have it engaged while I fiddled with the really cool
> Anywhere Map as I used the "Turn" knob to skirt around TFRs and
> controlled airspace in limited visibility. I found that after some
> acclimation, the "Navaid Wiggle" was soon forgotten and the unit was a
> valuable companion on the four hour trip in conditions worse than I had
> previously flown the Navaid.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ======================
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> >
> > I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally
> > started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a
> > distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be
> > moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with
> > the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction
> > varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start
> > to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There
> > is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now.
> >
> > Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I
> > should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale
> > to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea
> > how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar
> > results, which is somewhat comforting.
> >
> > One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood
> > between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of
> > the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start
> > the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident
> > of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to
> > use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required,
> > depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large
> > variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with
> > my fingers.
> >
> > So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be
> > interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move.
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi all
can anyone tell me how much torque a lycoming 0-320 or 0-360 engine produces
and at what rpm it produces max torque?
or give me some idea where to look
ps; I did the first test flight of my RV6 on july 16th needs just a touch of
right rudder apart from that its perfect
Dave Tennant
VH-DJT RV-6 160hp
flying at last
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Duckworks Landing Light |
Arrgg,
I have lost the Template A (where to cut the hole in the leading edge) for
the Duckworks Landing Light, if anyone local (Australia) has one they could
fax to me I will be most grateful.
Fax 61-2-00240116
No need to archive.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
Greetings from El Paso
We are building a 7A and 9A. The fly cutter has never been ordered for the
same reason you don't like it. It is a hospital trip just waiting to
happen. We used the Greenlee punches and came out great. We use a impact
hammer to turn it and the holes came out great. We used a dremmel tool for
the square holes and used a stainless steel ruler as a straight edge. Just
take your time and no problems
Marcel in El Paso
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
> What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> hole the few times I've used it.
>
> The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> square holes?
>
> How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lyco torque@rpm |
Dave,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE - on your First Flight!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (CT-USA)
>From: "DJ & LM Tennant" <dltenno(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: lyco torque@rpm
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:16:46 +1000
>
>
>Hi all
>
>can anyone tell me how much torque a lycoming 0-320 or 0-360 engine
>produces
>and at what rpm it produces max torque?
>or give me some idea where to look
>
>ps; I did the first test flight of my RV6 on july 16th needs just a touch
>of
>right rudder apart from that its perfect
>
>Dave Tennant
>VH-DJT RV-6 160hp
>flying at last
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lyco torque@rpm |
Subject: RV-List: lyco torque@rpm
> can anyone tell me how much torque a lycoming 0-320 or 0-360 engine
produces
> and at what rpm it produces max torque?
> or give me some idea where to look
> Dave Tennant
Dave: I haven't seen torque curves for Lycoming but they are easily
calculated from the power curves. Multiply power by 5252 and divide by RPM.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
Larry,
Bob Avery rented me a punch that does both standard sizes of holes for
instruments. He also includes a template for drilling the screw holes.
His rate, at the time ( 2 months ago) was $15. I found that it worked
very well for me.
The square holes for radios, I rough cut with a cutting disc on my die
grinder and finished them with a burr on the die grinder plus some
filing.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A wiring
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> hole the few times I've used it.
>
> The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> square holes?
>
> How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
I used hole saws to cut my panel... Worked good...
-Bill
http://vondane.com/rv8a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
hole the few times I've used it.
The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
square holes?
How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
| Subject: | RV Builders nr. Amherst, Mass. |
Folks -- I'm planning on being in Amherst, Mass., August 8th through 11th.
I'm going to be attending the International Citroen Owners Club meeting
being held there, and while I'm not sure that I'll have a lot of spare time,
I was wondering if there were any RV builders in the area, or at the very
least, an airport or two that might have some RV traffic in the pattern.
Please contact me off list...thank you very much...best regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
PS. In case anyone thinks I have completely lost my mind, my brother is the
Citroen owner...I'm just going along for the ride.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
I too was thinking amputation when looking at the flycutter.
I then got a foot switch to plug my drill press into,leaving BOTH hands free
to wrestle the feed and material.
Built two RV-4's plus other things that way , and still have ten fingers to
fumble with.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
Charkeston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi All,
IMHO, a fly cutter is an invaluable tool for building one of these planes.
Easy to use, and they are very safe if used properly. I cut my entire panel
and LOTS of lightning holes in the plane with no problems. Flap Spars,
etc..
If you just buy some good clamps and set things up properly and remember to
GO SLOW, there is no reason a fly-cutter can't be used with great success.
Keeping that in mind, do buy one of the better ones, as they are a bit more
durable.
That being said, a router also works well on the panel, and the big punches
are really slick.
Up to you, but don't let everyone scare you about fly cutters.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch, N664SB
Minneapolis, Prepping for paint.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marcel Bourgon
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting Panel
Greetings from El Paso
We are building a 7A and 9A. The fly cutter has never been ordered for the
same reason you don't like it. It is a hospital trip just waiting to
happen. We used the Greenlee punches and came out great. We use a impact
hammer to turn it and the holes came out great. We used a dremmel tool for
the square holes and used a stainless steel ruler as a straight edge. Just
take your time and no problems
Marcel in El Paso
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
> What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> hole the few times I've used it.
>
> The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> square holes?
>
> How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Will engine fit? |
fits in rv-8- but we have main intake verical underneath so had to make a
small " scoope " in cowling underneath since fuel line did touch cowling-
otherwise no problem
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski(at)qcpi.com]
> Sent: 29. juli 2002 18:12
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Will engine fit?
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>
> I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI
> ........anyone know if it
> will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100%
> sure. It has a
> Superior Air Parts sump if that helps.
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 8220
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
I also used a fly cutter, It did a great job. took off four left fingers and
right thumb..... NO, just kidding.
I used 2 large "C" clamps and held it very securely to the drill press table. I
place a piece of 3/4 inch wood underneath. I stood out of the way as I made the
cuts. I used a very sharp cutter and I fed it slowly. The Holes were very clean
and accurate.
LAYING ALL JOKES ASIDE, THIS TOOL IS NOT TO TAKE LIGHTLY. but with precautions
it is a good tool.
I also used it to make one in the panel after it was mounted. I used a Milwaukee
variable speed drill and turned it less than half speed, holding it real secure
and stable grip. It came out real good too. Just remember, get it cocked a
little bit and it will tear a big gouge in the panel if it don't get you...
Phil
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I too was thinking amputation when looking at the flycutter.
> I then got a foot switch to plug my drill press into,leaving BOTH hands free
> to wrestle the feed and material.
> Built two RV-4's plus other things that way , and still have ten fingers to
> fumble with.
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> Charkeston, Arkansas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
RV List
| Subject: | VOR/GPS Annunciator/Switch |
I plan to have both VOR and an IFR capable GPS in my panel. I would like
to be able to display the track info from both on a OBS instrument
(probably the Narco 122D/GPS.) I need some sort of switch to select VOR
or GPS and an annunciator to show which is selected. I also would like
to use the same switch and display so my NAVAID autopilot can track
either a VOR or GPS course.
What have others used? I am open to all suggestions.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Landing Light |
Bill,
Don't have the template anymore, try giving Duckworks a call at
503-543-3653. I'm sure he could fax you a copy.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 60+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Light
>
> Arrgg,
>
> I have lost the Template A (where to cut the hole in the leading edge) for
> the Duckworks Landing Light, if anyone local (Australia) has one they
could
> fax to me I will be most grateful.
>
> Fax 61-2-00240116
> No need to archive.
> Thanks
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
One thing you guys might consider is to have your local EAA Chapter purchase
a few of these seldom used tools
to make them available to all builders when the need arises.
Our Chapter made a tidy sum of cash by sponsoring EAA's B-17 when it was
here last year and used
some of those monies for purchasing tools like the Parker Flaring tool,
panel punches, compression testers,
firesleeve banding, mag timing boxes, digital scales, etc. These are needed
by all builders but are used only a few
times in the course of building a project.
Ed Cole
Rv6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stein Bruch [SMTP:stein(at)steinair.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 7:26 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> IMHO, a fly cutter is an invaluable tool for building one of these planes.
> Easy to use, and they are very safe if used properly. I cut my entire
> panel
> and LOTS of lightning holes in the plane with no problems. Flap Spars,
> etc..
>
> If you just buy some good clamps and set things up properly and remember
> to
> GO SLOW, there is no reason a fly-cutter can't be used with great success.
> Keeping that in mind, do buy one of the better ones, as they are a bit
> more
> durable.
>
> That being said, a router also works well on the panel, and the big
> punches
> are really slick.
>
> Up to you, but don't let everyone scare you about fly cutters.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch, N664SB
> Minneapolis, Prepping for paint.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marcel Bourgon
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
>
>
> Greetings from El Paso
> We are building a 7A and 9A. The fly cutter has never been ordered for
> the
> same reason you don't like it. It is a hospital trip just waiting to
> happen. We used the Greenlee punches and came out great. We use a impact
> hammer to turn it and the holes came out great. We used a dremmel tool
> for
> the square holes and used a stainless steel ruler as a straight edge.
> Just
> take your time and no problems
> Marcel in El Paso
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
>
> >
> > What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> > like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> > hole the few times I've used it.
> >
> > The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> > square holes?
> >
> > How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | VOR/GPS Annunciator/Switch |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Brame
Subject: RV-List: VOR/GPS Annunciator/Switch
I plan to have both VOR and an IFR capable GPS in my panel. I would like
to be able to display the track info from both on a OBS instrument
(probably the Narco 122D/GPS.) I need some sort of switch to select VOR
or GPS and an annunciator to show which is selected. I also would like
to use the same switch and display so my NAVAID autopilot can track
either a VOR or GPS course.
What have others used? I am open to all suggestions.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
Hi Charley
I have a setup similar to what you propose and chose to use a separate
indicator for my IFR GPS (UPS SL-60) for the following reasons. (1) the
Nav122D/GPS costs about $500 more than the standard Nav122D that I used (2)
a switch/annunciator setup for VOR/GPS is expensive, probably in the $400
range.
(3) I had a used VOR indicator from a previous aircraft on hand.
The VOR and GPS both put out the same signals to the indicators, so my radio
tech did the cosmetic mods for converting my used VOR indicator to a GPS
indicator and charged less than $100. He removed the OBS knob, OBS heading
ring etc. With this setup no switch/enunciator is required, just more panel
space for the extra indicator.
One advantage of a separate (GPS) indicator is that your GPS is not
interfaced with any other system so the IFR approval is easier if you run
into a picky bureaucrat.
Annunciator lights are available from Edmo 800-235-3300 or check their web
site. My GPS is not approach certified so I only needed a dual light labeled
for MSG & Parallel Track, cost about $90 if I remember correctly.
My radio tech also wired the Nav-Aid to use either VOR or GPS outputs with a
simple toggle switch. I am happy with this setup.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6-A 55 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
Stan Vangruensven built the Home Wing some cutters that have 6 cutter teeth
to them, rather than the std. one. I haven't used one yet but been told
they are a pleasure to use. Get your machinist friends busy :-) do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cutting Panel
>
> One thing you guys might consider is to have your local EAA Chapter
purchase
> a few of these seldom used tools
> to make them available to all builders when the need arises.
> Our Chapter made a tidy sum of cash by sponsoring EAA's B-17 when it was
> here last year and used
> some of those monies for purchasing tools like the Parker Flaring tool,
> panel punches, compression testers,
> firesleeve banding, mag timing boxes, digital scales, etc. These are
needed
> by all builders but are used only a few
> times in the course of building a project.
>
> Ed Cole
> Rv6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Stein Bruch [SMTP:stein(at)steinair.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 7:26 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Cutting Panel
> >
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > IMHO, a fly cutter is an invaluable tool for building one of these
planes.
> > Easy to use, and they are very safe if used properly. I cut my entire
> > panel
> > and LOTS of lightning holes in the plane with no problems. Flap Spars,
> > etc..
> >
> > If you just buy some good clamps and set things up properly and remember
> > to
> > GO SLOW, there is no reason a fly-cutter can't be used with great
success.
> > Keeping that in mind, do buy one of the better ones, as they are a bit
> > more
> > durable.
> >
> > That being said, a router also works well on the panel, and the big
> > punches
> > are really slick.
> >
> > Up to you, but don't let everyone scare you about fly cutters.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stein Bruch, N664SB
> > Minneapolis, Prepping for paint.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marcel Bourgon
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting Panel
> >
> >
> >
> > Greetings from El Paso
> > We are building a 7A and 9A. The fly cutter has never been ordered for
> > the
> > same reason you don't like it. It is a hospital trip just waiting to
> > happen. We used the Greenlee punches and came out great. We use a
impact
> > hammer to turn it and the holes came out great. We used a dremmel tool
> > for
> > the square holes and used a stainless steel ruler as a straight edge.
> > Just
> > take your time and no problems
> > Marcel in El Paso
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Cutting Panel
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What's the best/tool technique to cut the panel. The fly-cutter looks
> > > like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> > > hole the few times I've used it.
> > >
> > > The punch is a good (though expensive) start, but what about all the
> > > square holes?
> > >
> > > How about a router? How do you make a precise guide for it?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > -
> > > Larry Bowen
> > > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > > http://BowenAero.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hal merritt" <merritthal(at)hotmail.com> |
I was going through my shop and found some breakers that I am not going to need.
My 6 is flying and everything done. I have 8 breakers that I would like to
sell if any one could use them. They are potter-brumfield w58 series. (1) one
amp (2) two amp (3) three amp (2) four amp. I will take $50.00 for all.
Thanks Hal
RV6 N333MH 44hrs and all is well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
Larry Bowen recently inquired about how to panel cut rectangles, etc. I
came across a local place who said they could laser cut my panel (round and
square holes) for about $100 per panel. They don't even need an autocad
drawing -- just the panel and a readable drawing with dimensions. I'm going
to have them do our two panels for the RV-8 this fall.
United Laser, Inc.
Attn: Vance jr.
Phone: 815 - 389 - 7548
E-mail: laser(at)unitedlaser.com
Mailing Address: 4095 Prairie Hill Rd., South Beloit, IL 61080
or
P.O. Box 218
South Beloit, IL
61080
I think Vance jr. is the owner's son, but that's who I talked to
face-to-face.
Ken in Roscoe
BMA Apologist
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
My -8 is going to forgo the keyed ignition. So many times I've gotten in,
buckled down, sunglasses, hat on, headset on, master off, throttle off,
mixture rich, and, oops, no keys. Great when they're in the pants you wore
yesterday tucked in your luggage at the bottom of the mess. I'd also give
up a radio over replacing a canopy.
I also plan on a switch on the exterior to raise/lower the flaps, which
are easy to forget until the cover is on and secured. Kevin do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid wing leveler servo friction followup |
Thanks to all the public and private responses to my request for
info. I phoned Navaid this afternoon, and they agreed that something
was wrong with my servo. I'm sending it back so they can sort it out.
I'll update the lists with my positive or negative experience with
their service after I get the servo back.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron / flap squeeze |
> I also plan on a switch on the exterior to raise/lower the flaps,
which
> are easy to forget until the cover is on and secured. Kevin do not
> archive
With 8 other airplanes in the hangar including an 8 mm jet, I opted to put
additional switches in the electrical system. I did not want a short in
mine to be the cause of any fires. I put in one of the boat battery
disconnect switches so widely promoted on the list a few years ago.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Cutting Option |
For those who are not familiar with Steve Davis' work, he does excellent
work. There is a detailed review on my website under the Panel section. He
can do panels with or without the overlay and the instruments, switches,
avionics, etc fit perfectly. Plus he can engrave the lettering while he's
at it.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel/panel.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting Panel |
> The fly-cutter looks
> like an amputation waiting to happen, and I've never got a really good
> hole the few times I've used it.
I think the danger of these things is over-rated. It is frightening to look
at in action but I cut out dozens of holes in my mid-90s vintage kit and
never hurt myself. I've got plenty of other scars - from drill bits, metal
slivers, sharp edges, including the latest gash in my temple courtesy of the
trailing edge of my wing yesterday, but no flycutter injuries. You really
just need to clamp things down and use the right (slow) speed. I have had
the piece I am working on come loose on occasion, and I've been hit by the
whirling arm once or twice. At one or two hundred RPM it's not as dangerous
as it looks - it just knocked my hand away. Not that I am advocating
anything but utmost caution at all times in the shop but safety should not
be the reason not to use a fly cutter. Like any tool, it just needs to be
shown respect. Clamp things down and use heavy gloves - like welding
gloves - to handle things. Fly cutters do a great job if you use them
right - every bit as good as a punch or router.
Its all relative. I reckon flying is much more dangerous than building - in
the air you can take every precaution and still get killed. With tools you
can get sloppy and merely lose a finger or two. What a deal!
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Duckworks Landing Light |
Thanks for the note Jim. A local has offered me his copy.
Regards
Bill Ginn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Light
Bill,
Don't have the template anymore, try giving Duckworks a call at
503-543-3653. I'm sure he could fax you a copy.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 60+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Landing Light
>
> Arrgg,
>
> I have lost the Template A (where to cut the hole in the leading edge) for
> the Duckworks Landing Light, if anyone local (Australia) has one they
could
> fax to me I will be most grateful.
>
> Fax 61-2-00240116
> No need to archive.
> Thanks
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing my tank! |
The best method I've seen for sealing the fuel filler area when testing the
tanks is to stick a balloon in the filler and blow it up. The balloon will
seal the fuel filler very nicely.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Just to add my tank testing experience.
>
> I, too used a water manometer made of clear 3/8" vinyl tubing attached
> to a plywood board with cable ties and with the water tinted with food
> coloring. Air source was lungs to a maximum pressure of about 34" of
> water or about 1.7 psi.
>
> Had leaks from tank filler area in spite of various combinations of duct
> tape and plastic.
>
> The solution I found for the filler leaks was a 2" plumber's "Test
> Ball" that I obtained from a plumbing supply. It is a rubber ball with a
> "Shrader" stem like the air filler stem on your automobile or bicycle
> tires. You insert it in the tank filler neck and add air pressure. It
> expands into the filler neck and seals it very tight.
>
> After correcting leaks detected by soapy water at one of the BNC
> fittings (for the capacitive fuel gauge) and at one rivet, the manometer
> showed only movement that correlated with temperature change (including
> pressure increase with temperature increase). At the end of 34 hours,
> the pressure was slightly higher than at the start (by .5 in. of water)
> convincing me that there were no significant leaks remaining.
>
> Hope some of this is of help.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A wiring panel
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
> >
> >
> > > I used the monometer method along with a spray bottle
> > > with soapy water for redundancy and had excellent
> > > results. One tip I have is to go the the hardware
> > > store and buy some little corks that will fit into
> > > your fuel pickup tube and vent tube fittings. I tried
> > > the balloon route and found the corks much simpler. I
> >
> > The manometer method seems to be the most straightforward. Although,
I'd
> > advise going one step further (than corks) and getting the AN fitting to
> > seal off the vent line fitting. It's cheap and it works without doubt.
> >
> > AN924-4D for the vent
> > AN924-6D for the fuel pickup
> >
> > Fuelube 'em up and they seal like a charm. I had to duct tape over my
fuel
> > cap...couldn't get it to seal perfectly no matter how tight or how
lubed.
> > Other than that, no leaks.
> >
> > Pictures:
> > http://www.rvproject.com/20020710.html
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
Has anyone had any dealings with the paint work at Oxford Aviation in
Oxford, Maine. I talked with them briefly at OSH about painting my RV-4
when it is completed. They seem like a pretty experienced and meticulous
shop.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tools For Sale-Up Date |
For all of you that were and are interested, I finally did a pelimintary
inventory with an Avery Catalogue. The total price I paid is a little over
$2900. I will give a detailed list via email to those are interested. If
anyone is, I will part with the entire works for $1750 and I pay shipping.
Please contact me off list for a piece by piece breakdown of what I have. I
should have it done by the weekend.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas-still recovering at home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | prospective builders...tool run-down |
There's been a lot of talk about tools...what's required, where to get good
deals, etc. I finally got around to putting together a pretty comprehensive
page with tons of pictures and descriptions of the tools I use regularly.
http://www.rvproject.com/tools.html
I'm not in any way trying to endorse any manufacturers or vendors or
anything like that. I'm just trying to provide data points for prospective
builders. I hope somebody out there finds this useful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | EAA insurance "program" |
John,
Can you provide a list of states that Vanguard is available in or a list of
states that it is not available in?
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
I don't anticipate that the endorsement is going to be significant
enough for me to move customers to AAU because their rates on RVs are
higher than the VanGuard Programs, and the Program has a great coverage
endorsement on it anyway. I will keep a close eye on that and let you
all know if they start lowering their rates on RVs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prospective builders...tool run-down |
Way cool, Dan. One thing I thought humerous is you used the word "sucker"
11 times.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: prospective builders...tool run-down
>
> There's been a lot of talk about tools...what's required, where to get
good
> deals, etc. I finally got around to putting together a pretty
comprehensive
> page with tons of pictures and descriptions of the tools I use regularly.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/tools.html
>
> I'm not in any way trying to endorse any manufacturers or vendors or
> anything like that. I'm just trying to provide data points for
prospective
> builders. I hope somebody out there finds this useful.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (wings...still!)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 meeting in 2003 |
Hello fellow 8 drivers and builders,
Had a thought regarding next years get-togethers at OSH. I missed the
Sunday meeting because we planned a Sunday AM departure from the
campgrounds. In order to gain access to the Theater in the woods a Sunday
ticket would have to be purchased. A suggestion would be to meet instead at
the shaded "flag" area just east of the Red Barn Store. This way, those
departing on the day of the meeting could join in the fun with out purchase
of another ticket. Just a thought.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA insurance "program" |
Vermont, Alaska, and Hawaii are the only states that the program is
absolutely not available in. AK and HI are extremely specialized as they
are high risk states for aviation. Vermont has 3 airplanes (just kidding...
but very few) and the company that writes the program has just never gone
thru the trouble to get admitted in that state.
Wisconsin is the only state that is really weird. In WI an insurance
company cannot write a policy to an individual unless the policy is in
"plain language." The exceptions to this rule are:
1. a corporation (even if only a name) can be provided a policy as it is
not an individual. So, those of you in WI can start Mom and Pop, Inc. and
get covered thru the program.
2. Companies that were admitted in WI prior to 19xx (I am unsure of the year
but it was about 25 years ago) don't have to comply. Most of the aviation
insurance companies that are left have been around 50+ years, but the
company that underwrites the program has only been in existance about 20
years. They must comply with the law.
The restrictions mentioned above have nothing to do with policy territory
(i.e. if you have coverage thru the program and fly to VT you are covered...
you do need to get AK trips approved by the underwriters... all they want to
know is what airports you plan to visit, when, and who's going.)
I see from your address that you're in VT. Sorry, there are some other very
good companies available in VT.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: EAA insurance "program"
John,
Can you provide a list of states that Vanguard is available in or a list of
states that it is not available in?
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
I don't anticipate that the endorsement is going to be significant
enough for me to move customers to AAU because their rates on RVs are
higher than the VanGuard Programs, and the Program has a great coverage
endorsement on it anyway. I will keep a close eye on that and let you
all know if they start lowering their rates on RVs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Builders' Meetings Recap |
We had a great turnout for the 2002 AirVulture RV-8 Builders' Meeting on
Thursday morning. I never counted heads, but I would estimate that a couple
dozen builders showed up to swap lies and shake hands. I tried to make it
around the group and welcome everyone, but probably missed a few. It was great
to see some familiar faces, and even better to see new ones!
For once, we actually had an ABUNDANCE of doughnuts! Not only did Nate provide
us with a couple of BIG boxes of fancy local fare, but Bob Dimeo finally came
through with a couple of boxes of doughnuts that I think he originally purchased
about three years ago. People were taking them to use as wheel chocks. Someone
else (I didn't catch the name, sorry) showed up with some doughnuts also, and I
don't think we had enough hungry people to even crack those boxes open. Thanks,
all, for your generosity and hospitality.
I made the announcement to the gathered builders that, after seven long years of
building, I had finally decided which engine I was going to buy for my plane.
The anticipation of the collective group was palpable, and you could hear a pin
drop as the anticipation built ...
When I announced my decision, the group was pretty evenly divided between
contented smiles of concurrence and lowered heads, shaking slowly from side to
side in disappointment.
After a few minutes, a few of my fellow builders pulled me aside and pointed out
the error of my ways. >sigh<
I tell this tale to point out the tremendous value of this group, whether online
or in person, and that being in the collective experience and wisdom of its
individuals. The vast majority of you have already forgotten more about planes
than I'll ever know, and are all eager and willing to share your treasure troves
with other builders. Where else can we, as builders, find that kind of support
and information?
So, with the help of my comrades, I've abandoned my decision to buy a new
Lycosaur from Van's.
I'm back to engineering the installation of a surplus General Electric
F110-GE-100/129 lifted from an F-16. If anyone in this vast sea of experience
and knowledge can help me figure out how to insulate my butt from this thing and
keep my tailwheel from melting when I light the blower, please e-mail me.
Just kidding.
Thanks again to all who attended the Thursday meeting. I hope we can continue
this tradition in some form each year. The Sunday morning meeting was ... uh
... less well attended. The conversation went like this: "Mornin', Kevin."
"Mornin', Don."
Next year, considering that AirVulture has been moving to earlier dates, maybe
having the first meeting on Tuesday or Wednesday, and the second one on Saturday
might be better. That way, we won't have to yell to be heard over the church
service that was going on simultaneously (those people didn't appreciate our
contributions, did they, Kevin?) We'll chat about it next year.
Keep pounding rivets, everyone!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 07/31/02 |
Oshkosh Report
Well, It was awesome, I took the ole' 6 to Wittman Field for her first
birthday and she had a blast, as did I.
Direct from San Diego, via Durango Colorado, Kearny Nebraska, and Dubueque
Iowa. Fuel at the new FBO in Durango is $2.19 if you're ever down that way.
Several funnies, when I called into to land in Iowa, I keyed the mike and my
eye saw the word Dubueque on the chart, my brain totally reset, and out of
my mouth came pure garbage. "Ah dookibookiekie tower... ah poop, I'm out
here somewhere to the west, I can't speak french, and I want to land" They
thought that was pretty funny so they let me land there.
Then going into OSH I arrived on the Thursday before the show opened, it was
something close to three miles and 1 foot vis, with a 1000 ft ceiling north
of Ripon, so the tower cleared me for rwy 9 and report at 3 out. I did so he
asked me to report a 2 by which time I was already there, so he cleared me
to land but said he couldn't see me yet. After landing and rolling out on 13
I called him back for more directions and his response was "Oh,,, there you
are. Where do you want to park? I said "Don't know, never been here", so he
directed me down to camping in the trees south of show center.
I spent the next two weeks as a volunteer on a scooter parking and unparking
a zillion airplanes, eating nothing but Operation Thirst sandwiches, and
being dejuiced by every mosquito in the state of Wisconsin,,, what a blast.
Its really hard to tell what was more fun, playing with all the airplanes,
or playing with all the people who come to play with all the airplanes.
Everytime I went looking for y'all, all I found was your planes. The only
one of you I met momentarily was Tim in his Mean Green Machine as I parked
him over in Aircraft Repair. I hope it all worked out for you Tim. Those
guys at Repair were very busy. They replaced two engines, several jugs, and
will probably be replacing the engine in one of the Aeroshell T-6's as it
grenaded on landing after the Friday airshow.
I only saw one C-185 on its nose, and one Doctor killer doing
semi-horizontal cartwheels down the runway. Far as I know we did far better
then Russia this last few weeks, with no fatalities. The EAA Database showed
over 240 RV's on base, and Van reports that they have sold over 10000 tail
kits with over 3000 of them flying. That built/sell ratio is double what
anybody else is doing.
My flight time was 10 hrs 23 min going and 10 hrs 25 min returning. Weather
was wet over Arizona and Nebraska, but ceilings were 5k or better agl at all
times, except for OSH. And I almost went IMC just as I got into SD County as
our mountians are currently on fire. It seems one more government official
started another fire.
Can't wait until next year, so I guess I'll see some of you at Copperstate,
or ???
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: prospective builders...tool run-down |
For a similar list without the pictures, you can also check out my list at:
http://www.b4.ca/rv7
Click on the "tools" link on the left side. I followed the list for a
few months gathering opinions on tools before choosing the big ones.
The small ones were just bought as needed, where available (everyone
carries scotch-brite pads, right?).
I've also left a long list of comments on tools from various local
builders, which may or may not be useful to people.
-RB4
rv7 "at" b4.ca
RV-7 Empennage
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> There's been a lot of talk about tools...what's required, where to get good
> deals, etc. I finally got around to putting together a pretty comprehensive
> page with tons of pictures and descriptions of the tools I use regularly.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/tools.html
>
> I'm not in any way trying to endorse any manufacturers or vendors or
> anything like that. I'm just trying to provide data points for prospective
> builders. I hope somebody out there finds this useful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com> |
If my memory has not failed me, it was in 1997 ( last century ) when we had
the 25th anniversary of Van bringing the first RV to OSH. He encouraged
everyone to fly in and there were 288 present I believe. Probably still a
record for any type aircraft there.
Next year will be the 30 th year.
One of you guys should get on the ball and start a campaign to have another
record turnout next year for RV's. We could easily have 500 there and set a
record that may never be broken by any other type aircraft.
Someone needs to work on it throughout the year.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | AirVenture 2002 RV Award Winners |
Congratulations to these AirVenture Award Winners for 2002!
HOMEBUILT PLAQUES
Outstanding Workmanship
Kit-Built
Marvin Brott: RV-8-- N707TX
Patrick Allender: RV-4--N36PA
John Hughes: RV-6-- N164J
Homebuilt
Bronze Lindy Kit-Built
George Meketa: RV-8--N444TX
Wally Anderson: RV-6A --N12WN
Reserve Grand Champion Kit-Built
David Howe: RV-4-- N540HR
For Design Contribution
David Howe: RV-4--N540HR
Research, Development and Implementation of a Ram Air Intake System
Grand Champion Kit-Built
Alan Webb: Harmon Rocket--N281AW (distant cousin to RVs)
Thanks to all of the above for their inspiration to those of us still
pounding rivets!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin consols a la Hefel |
Does anyone have a technical description of the 'Hefel' control consoles?
In particular, the consoles that house the throttle on the left and the
switches on the right that angle up and join the control panel. Even Lyle
Hefel's e-mail address would help.
Jon Weiswasser
RV-8
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin consols a la Hefel |
Does anyone have a technical description of the 'Hefel' control consoles?
In particular, the consoles that house the throttle on the left and the
switches on the right that angle up and join the control panel. Even Lyle
Hefel's e-mail address would help.
Jon Weiswasser
RV-8
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin consols a la Hefel |
rvbuilder(at)dubuque.net
A member of EAA Chapter 75 I might add.
Cy Galley - Webmaster Chapter 75
http://members.tripod.com/~EAA_Chapter_75
----- Original Message -----
From: <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cabin consols a la Hefel
Does anyone have a technical description of the 'Hefel' control consoles?
In particular, the consoles that house the throttle on the left and the
switches on the right that angle up and join the control panel. Even Lyle
Hefel's e-mail address would help.
Jon Weiswasser
RV-8
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall forward |
>
>My tech advisor who is an A&P with IA said to never use aluminum for fuel
>lines in fire wall forward.
HEY!! Be sure to let Beech (Raytheon) know. My Debonair has aluminum fuel
lines forward of the firewall and I believe they have been there and
functional for 37 years now.
That's why I am selling the Deb so cheap. The interior is unprimed and
they use pop rivets here and there. Cheap shoddy airplanes those Beechies.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum fuel and oil lines |
>
>I don't claim to be an expert, but as an aerospace
>engineer and an A&P, let me assure you that this is a
>VERY bad idea. The engine actually moves quite a bit.
> The shaking at start-up/shut-down, and vibratiion
>while running will very quickly fatique and crack the
>aluminum lines. It won't be a matter of "500 hours",
>it will be more like 25 hours. Maybe less.
I think you may be talking about different fuel lines - always a hose from
airframe to engine, of course.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
In a message dated 8/1/2002 12:31:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> >
> >My tech advisor who is an A&P with IA said to never use aluminum for fuel
> >lines in fire wall forward.
>
> HEY!! Be sure to let Beech (Raytheon) know. My Debonair has aluminum fuel
>
> lines forward of the firewall and I believe they have been there and
> functional for 37 years now.
>
> That's why I am selling the Deb so cheap. The interior is unprimed and
> they use pop rivets here and there. Cheap shoddy airplanes those Beechies.
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Hey Hal, glad you answered this one. My Bonanza's aluminum pump to carb fuel
line has been in service for 53 years (1949). I just inspected the line,
flares look good no cracks noted. I would not have a problem with a properly
fabricated and supported aluminum fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb.
Cash Copeland A&P
RV6 N46FC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall forward |
Lots of major confusion here. Aluminum or SS lines used on an engine are
fine as long as they are properly supported and DO NOT connect to the
rigid airframe or engine mount. Any connection from the relatively
stable airframe, gasculator, or fuel filter and the engine should be
made with the proper flexible hose line.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JusCash(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Firewall forward
Hey Hal, glad you answered this one. My Bonanza's aluminum pump to carb
fuel
line has been in service for 53 years (1949). I just inspected the
line,
flares look good no cracks noted. I would not have a problem with a
properly
fabricated and supported aluminum fuel line from the fuel pump to the
carb.
Cash Copeland A&P
RV6 N46FC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV construction videos For Sale |
Orndorff videos for sale:
Sheet Metal Tools
RV Prepunched Empennage
RV Prepunched Wing Construction
RV-8 Fuselage Construction
RV-8 Finishing Kit
RV Aircraft Systems
Price new: $213.50 + shipping
I'll sell the whole lot (as a set only) for $175 and I'll pay for ground
shipping anywhere in the US.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 07/31/02 |
In a message dated 8/1/2002 7:50:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wnort
h(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
> Oshkosh Report
>
> Well, It was awesome, I took the ole' 6 to Wittman Field for her first
> birthday and she had a blast, as did I.
>
> Direct from San Diego, via Durango Colorado, Kearny Nebraska, and Dubueque
> Iowa. Fuel at the new FBO in Durango is $2.19 if you're ever down that way.
>
> Several funnies, when I called into to land in Iowa, I keyed the mike and
> my
> eye saw the word Dubueque on the chart, my brain totally reset, and out of
> my mouth came pure garbage. "Ah dookibookiekie tower... ah poop, I'm out
> here somewhere to the west, I can't speak french, and I want to land" They
> thought that was pretty funny so they let me land there.
>
> Then going into OSH I arrived on the Thursday before the show opened, it
> was
> something close to three miles and 1 foot vis, with a 1000 ft ceiling north
> of Ripon, so the tower cleared me for rwy 9 and report at 3 out. I did so
> he
> asked me to report a 2 by which time I was already there, so he cleared me
> to land but said he couldn't see me yet. After landing and rolling out on
> 13
> I called him back for more directions and his response was "Oh,,, there you
> are. Where do you want to park? I said "Don't know, never been here", so he
> directed me down to camping in the trees south of show center.
>
> I spent the next two weeks as a volunteer on a scooter parking and
> unparking
> a zillion airplanes, eating nothing but Operation Thirst sandwiches, and
> being dejuiced by every mosquito in the state of Wisconsin,,, what a
> blast.
> Its really hard to tell what was more fun, playing with all the airplanes,
> or playing with all the people who come to play with all the airplanes.
>
> Everytime I went looking for y'all, all I found was your planes. The only
> one of you I met momentarily was Tim in his Mean Green Machine as I parked
> him over in Aircraft Repair. I hope it all worked out for you Tim. Those
> guys at Repair were very busy. They replaced two engines, several jugs, and
> will probably be replacing the engine in one of the Aeroshell T-6's as it
> grenaded on landing after the Friday airshow.
>
> I only saw one C-185 on its nose, and one Doctor killer doing
> semi-horizontal cartwheels down the runway. Far as I know we did far better
> then Russia this last few weeks, with no fatalities. The EAA Database
> showed
> over 240 RV's on base, and Van reports that they have sold over 10000 tail
> kits with over 3000 of them flying. That built/sell ratio is double what
> anybody else is doing.
>
> My flight time was 10 hrs 23 min going and 10 hrs 25 min returning. Weather
> was wet over Arizona and Nebraska, but ceilings were 5k or better agl at
> all
> times, except for OSH. And I almost went IMC just as I got into SD County
> as
> our mountians are currently on fire. It seems one more government official
> started another fire.
>
> Can't wait until next year, so I guess I'll see some of you at Copperstate,
> or ???
>
> W
>
I am very happy to report that I had a extreamly good trip home, via
Rochester Minnesota, Yangton SD, Custer SD, Casper WI, Vernal UT, St. George
UT and then home to Bakersfield. I am not sure if I got some bad gas or what
but I had Number 1 cylinder injector nozzle partially plugged. Once the
injectors were cleaned & flushed Meangreen was sweet as could be. My hat is
off to Chapter 75 and all the guys at the repair barn at Oshkosh...they were
first class and very helpful.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
In the 2nd 2002 issue of the RVator it lists a plans change for
trimming the E-714 counterweight for the right elevator. Is it a good
idea to trim this now or wait until later? I'm just a little
concerned about trimming too much even though it would be much more
convenient to do the bulk of the trimming now. Also, what's the best
method to trim this? Can I just run it through my band saw?
Ken
8-Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I picked up some Evercoat Rage Gold filler today at the Sherwin Williams
Automotive Finished store. Someone on the list recommended it a couple
months ago, so I thought I would try it. The mission is to fill some
holes someone drilled in the wrong spots on my RV-8 canopy skirt. Once
I got home (of course), I read on the label that one of the ingredients
is polyester resin.
So, today's crayon-level question is: Is this compatible with the "new"
epoxy fiberglass parts from Van's? A call back to the store revealed
that it should be, but the guy didn't sound to confident.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on epoxy? |
In a message dated 8/1/02 5:57:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< I picked up some Evercoat Rage Gold filler today at the Sherwin Williams
Automotive Finished store. Someone on the list recommended it a couple
months ago, so I thought I would try it. The mission is to fill some
holes someone drilled in the wrong spots on my RV-8 canopy skirt. Once
I got home (of course), I read on the label that one of the ingredients
is polyester resin.
So, today's crayon-level question is: Is this compatible with the "new"
epoxy fiberglass parts from Van's? A call back to the store revealed
that it should be, but the guy didn't sound to confident.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com >>
Conventional wisdom is not to place polyester products over epoxy based
products. They supposedly don't get a good bond. However, you'll *probably*
be OK, as long as you don't get it near the plexiglass and as long as your
canopy skirt doesn't flex much.
Personally, I'd find an epoxy based product. Marine Tex comes to mind as an
epoxy based product that is formable. Epoxy and microballoons would work
too, as would super-fil. JB weld may also work, but I can't tell from the
packaging if it is epoxy or poly.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
The short answer is no. Epoxy will stick to polyester but polyester has
poor adhesion to epoxy. Your best bet is to make a shredded
fiberglass/epoxy paste and use that to plug the holes. Campher the holes
on both side so the plug will be hour-glass shaped. Wait for the slurry
to cure, sand and fill with an epoxy primer.
BTW, you can donate your Evercoat Rage to me, thats all I use. But I
have a vynalester airplane. Great stuff.
For those that are interested, epoxy, now I'm talking real epoxy here,
uses a chemical bonding process to cure. In other words, it takes a
fixed number of Part A molecules chemically bonding to a fixed number of
Part B molecules to create the cured product C. Thats why the mixing
ratio is so critical with true epoxies. If it's off in either direction,
the resultant cured part is not at ultimate strength. Polyester
(vynalester) resins cure by a chemical process called polymerization.
Polymerization is defined as short molecules joining together to make
long strands. Nylon is a polymer, so is rayon. The catalyst, usually
MEKP, starts the process and controls the rate. Once the process starts
it cannot be stopped and will always go through to completion. That
means that polyester product will always reach its design strength.
Bruce
Glasair III
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rage on epoxy?
In a message dated 8/1/02 5:57:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< I picked up some Evercoat Rage Gold filler today at the Sherwin
Williams
Automotive Finished store. Someone on the list recommended it a couple
months ago, so I thought I would try it. The mission is to fill some
holes someone drilled in the wrong spots on my RV-8 canopy skirt. Once
I got home (of course), I read on the label that one of the ingredients
is polyester resin.
So, today's crayon-level question is: Is this compatible with the "new"
epoxy fiberglass parts from Van's? A call back to the store revealed
that it should be, but the guy didn't sound to confident.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com >>
Conventional wisdom is not to place polyester products over epoxy based
products. They supposedly don't get a good bond. However, you'll
*probably*
be OK, as long as you don't get it near the plexiglass and as long as
your
canopy skirt doesn't flex much.
Personally, I'd find an epoxy based product. Marine Tex comes to mind
as an
epoxy based product that is formable. Epoxy and microballoons would
work
too, as would super-fil. JB weld may also work, but I can't tell from
the
packaging if it is epoxy or poly.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA insurance "program" |
J.T.,
Could you clarify this- to get insurance through Vanguard in Wisconsin, I
need to form a corporation? There is no way to write a policy to an
individual? Is there anyone in Wisconsin insured through Vanguard I could
talk to about this?
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
Wisconsin is the only state that is really weird. In WI an insurance
company cannot write a policy to an individual unless the policy is in
"plain language." The exceptions to this rule are:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on epoxy? |
despite the warnings it seems to work fine. kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rage on epoxy?
>
> I picked up some Evercoat Rage Gold filler today at the Sherwin Williams
> Automotive Finished store. Someone on the list recommended it a couple
> months ago, so I thought I would try it. The mission is to fill some
> holes someone drilled in the wrong spots on my RV-8 canopy skirt. Once
> I got home (of course), I read on the label that one of the ingredients
> is polyester resin.
>
> So, today's crayon-level question is: Is this compatible with the "new"
> epoxy fiberglass parts from Van's? A call back to the store revealed
> that it should be, but the guy didn't sound to confident.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on Epoxy |
I used Rage # 100 106 lightweight filler on my RV-5 wheel fairings and the
Pre-preg cowl to fill the weave and lots of voids,etc. It has microbaloons ,
so is light. In the thin coats used here it adheres OK.
You have to just about cover the complete surface of that stuff to get it
smooth. The Rage cures fast and is sandable in a few minutes.
Pinholes in these is a PAIN !! I read someones post about Poly-Fiber"
SMOOTHPRIME ", applied with a small foam roller to fill the pinholes. I tried
it and it really works fine. A/C Spuce has the Smoothprime ; about forty
bucks a quart , but worth it ! Looks like the fine texture foam roller forces
the primer into the pinholes.
I hadn't been able to make the dang pre-preg stuff usable until I used this
primer.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston,Arkansas
oldsfolks(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on Epoxy |
...just out of curiosity... What's the configuration of an RV-5 ???
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rage on Epoxy
>
> I used Rage # 100 106 lightweight filler on my RV-5 wheel fairings and the
> Pre-preg cowl to fill the weave and lots of voids,etc. It has microbaloons
,
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> Charleston,Arkansas
> oldsfolks(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GPS Annunciator/Switch |
----Original Message Follows----
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: VOR/GPS Annunciator/Switch
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:52:52 -0500
I plan to have both VOR and an IFR capable GPS in my panel. I would like
to be able to display the track info from both on a OBS instrument
(probably the Narco 122D/GPS.) I need some sort of switch to select VOR
or GPS and an annunciator to show which is selected. I also would like
to use the same switch and display so my NAVAID autopilot can track
either a VOR or GPS course.
What have others used? I am open to all suggestions.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
Charlie:
I used the ACU and CDI from Apollo with my GX-60 and SL-30. My Navaid will
track what ever is channeled to the CDI as selected by the ACU. (Annunciator
Control Unit, some times called Annunciator Switching unit) I also can use
the GPSS digital signal from the GPS to track heading or course but to
install that option, you need to add two more switches. Someone posted
previously that you need to have your GPS course deviation set to the lowest
setting to get good results. I am set for 0.3 nautical mile full scale and
it tracks within 0.15 nautical mile.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,155.9+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
The construction videos I listed for sale yesterday have been sold.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
Now that you have finished building you plane and are now flying, don't
you miss all that building? All that comraderary around the workbench?
Don't you wish for the good old days of working till midnight with all
that aluminum? Well, I have some good new for you. I have a 80 to 90%
finished F-1 Rocket kit with a brand new 300HP motor and a 3 bladed
adjustable prop that I am willing to trade for a flying RV-6. Now's your
chance to get back into the really great stuff!
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on epoxy? |
There's been several comments posted on this . . . but I'll add mine. I'm
not sure why you wouldn't just use epoxy with microballoons . . . West
Epoxy has a system that is super simple (a can of part "A", a can of part
"B", cheap ratio pumps that go in each can . . . you can leave the can open
on the shelf, then squirt A + B as needed). For pinholes, several postings
have mentioned K-36 or K-38 filler. This sprays on and sands easily. Good
luck.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rage on epoxy?
>
> I picked up some Evercoat Rage Gold filler today at the Sherwin Williams
> Automotive Finished store. Someone on the list recommended it a couple
> months ago, so I thought I would try it. The mission is to fill some
> holes someone drilled in the wrong spots on my RV-8 canopy skirt. Once
> I got home (of course), I read on the label that one of the ingredients
> is polyester resin.
>
> So, today's crayon-level question is: Is this compatible with the "new"
> epoxy fiberglass parts from Van's? A call back to the store revealed
> that it should be, but the guy didn't sound to confident.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Mechanism-8A |
The flap pushrod for the left side of my quickbuild (8A) fits beautifully.
Virtually no additional clearance was required where the pushrod exits the
fuselage. The right side, though, is an entirely different story. I either
need to take out quite a bit of the fuselage to accommodate the push rod . .
. or find a bearing for the flap end of the push rod (part CM-4MS) that is
"longer" so that I can extend it closer in toward the fuselage. One other
thought is to re-do the flap root end components (e.g. the FL-406B plate)
repositioning this so that it is positioned closer to the fuselage. Has
anyone gone through this same problem? Solutions? Is there a longer CM-4MS
(I'm checking with Van's also). Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA insurance "program" |
Jeff, actually in most states it is quite simple. You can contact your
states State Department (online usually) or you can hire a lawyer to set it
up for you. The state dept can help you pick a name that is not currently
in use for corporations in your state. Most states will register the name
you choose for a small annual fee.
Hiring a lawyer sounds like an unnecessary expense. However, if you go that
route you can (if you choose a lawyer familiar with aviation law) be sure
that all the t's are crossed as to the running of your corporation so that
it actually can protect you from a lawsuit. If you merely register the
name, it will allow the VanGuard Program to write insurance for you, but
might not do anything else for you.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA insurance "program"
J.T.,
Could you clarify this- to get insurance through Vanguard in Wisconsin, I
need to form a corporation? There is no way to write a policy to an
individual? Is there anyone in Wisconsin insured through Vanguard I could
talk to about this?
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
Wisconsin is the only state that is really weird. In WI an insurance
company cannot write a policy to an individual unless the policy is in
"plain language." The exceptions to this rule are:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Mechanism-8A |
Rick,
As I remember we had to enlarge the fuselage opening a little. Also our left
side was alittle tight were the actuator rod ran and we had to amke a minor
adjustment to the opening.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (100 hrs)
>From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Flap Mechanism-8A
>Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 07:18:43 -0600
>
>
>The flap pushrod for the left side of my quickbuild (8A) fits beautifully.
>Virtually no additional clearance was required where the pushrod exits the
>fuselage. The right side, though, is an entirely different story. I
>either
>need to take out quite a bit of the fuselage to accommodate the push rod .
>.
>. or find a bearing for the flap end of the push rod (part CM-4MS) that is
>"longer" so that I can extend it closer in toward the fuselage. One other
>thought is to re-do the flap root end components (e.g. the FL-406B plate)
>repositioning this so that it is positioned closer to the fuselage. Has
>anyone gone through this same problem? Solutions? Is there a longer
>CM-4MS
>(I'm checking with Van's also). Thanks in advance,
>Rick Jory RV8A
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Alternatives Sought |
Request comments, sources for your own successful finish kit substitutions
and/or additons prior to my ordering Vans basic -8 finish kit.
Thanks in advance,
Jack Blomgren
-8 fuselage innards
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Guys and gals:
I have been doing some thinking lately and just wanted
to pass on to you all some information that some of
you may find valuable. (old timers disregard)
there has been some accidents that could have been
prevented not only in RV aircraft but ALL aircraft if
the persons involved would just follow standard
pre-flight procedures and while building referenced
AC-41-13.
The most recent that comes to mind is trying to
stretch fuel to make it to their final destination. I
just want to remind everyone, that if you schedule a
fuel stop and while enroute decide that you can make
it on available fuel, please reconsider stopping at
your scheduled fuel stop. We had a mooney that dead
sticked here in Dallas a few days ago because he
didn't get fuel when he was supposed to. I am so tired
of hearing the excuse that the fuel gauges said I had
fuel in my tanks. The first thing that your flight
instructor should have told you is, "to never trust
the gauges" you calculate fuel burn based on hourly
usage and available fuel in your tanks.
Another thing I find frightening is hanging a new/used
engine on your new airplane without adequate ground
testing, blasting off only to have the engine give up
on you. Please please please if your not sure, have
someone experienced help you out. Even if it means
delaying that glorious first flight. It is better to
have waited than to crash a new plane.
last thing then I'm off my soap box. there has been
some discussion latley about using rigid lines on you
aircraft. Read AC43-13 and see what it says about
this. I would strongly urge everyone concerned to use
flexible hoses in their FWF application (where
applicable). The vibrations on our aircraft engines
are extreme and it only takes a little time for a
rigid line to work harden and snap making for a bad
day.
Use prudence on the FWF take the time and do it right
the first time and do not cut corners it will pay you
dividends in the long run and make your life a lot
easier come condition inspection time.
I hope you all, do not see this as a flame but just a
plea for all to be safe out there.
regards
Glenn Williams
A&P Mechanic
Fort Worth, Texas
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Alternatives Sought |
I did some research into this very thing prior to ordering my finish kit. End result
was, I ordered the whole thing from Van's!
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Blomgren
Subject: RV-List: Finish Kit Alternatives Sought
Request comments, sources for your own successful finish kit substitutions
and/or additons prior to my ordering Vans basic -8 finish kit.
Thanks in advance,
Jack Blomgren
-8 fuselage innards
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Alternatives Sought |
Howdy Jack-
Just received my FK, and had Vans toss in a baffle kit, oil cooler, engine
mount bushings & bolts, a set of the RV-7 wingtips (anybody want a set of the
standard tips?) omitted the emp fairing and gearleg fairings (got an imfairing
instead) and some other odds & ends.
This is a good opportunity to save on shipping items you know you'll need
later on- there's a whole lot of space in that big ol' box and for $385 to the
terminal in Nashville, I preferred paying to ship stuff instead of air!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - 6A, wankin' on canopy frame
Jack Blomgren wrote:
>
> Request comments, sources for your own successful finish kit substitutions
> and/or additons prior to my ordering Vans basic -8 finish kit.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jack Blomgren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Filling Pinholes |
Larry,
Bruce is correct in his description of the differences between epoxy and
polyester.
We've used USC's "Icing" for years on everything from boats, Corvettes,
to wing tips and fairings.
Although it does have a polyester base to it, we've never had an
adhesion problem. The stuff even sticks to galvanized metal. It mixes
easy, goes on smooth and is easily sanded. It's compatible with every
under and top coat we've ever used, other than lacquer base systems.
Just my 2 cents...
Jim Duckett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: E-714 trimming |
Ken:
Don't know about the new empennage kits, but I used a large drill (3/8",I
think) on my lead weights, drilling a lot of holes part way through the
block until I got the balance right. I put the drilled side outboard, so
the sloppy looking holes don't show.
George
N888GK
Now 66 trouble free hours.
>From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: E-714 trimming
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:33:09 -0600
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Kendall R. Simmons"
>
>In the 2nd 2002 issue of the RVator it lists a plans change for
>trimming the E-714 counterweight for the right elevator. Is it a good
>idea to trim this now or wait until later? I'm just a little
>concerned about trimming too much even though it would be much more
>convenient to do the bulk of the trimming now. Also, what's the best
>method to trim this? Can I just run it through my band saw?
>
>Ken
>8-Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Mechanism-8A |
I had to cut a "mouse hole" in one side of my RV-6A. The flap covers it
completely when retracted and I no longer notice it when the flaps are down.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
N227RV
-----Original Message-----
The flap pushrod for the left side of my quickbuild (8A) fits beautifully.
Virtually no additional clearance was required where the pushrod exits the
fuselage. The right side, though, is an entirely different story. I either
need to take out quite a bit of the fuselage to accommodate the push rod . .
. or find a bearing for the flap end of the push rod (part CM-4MS) that is
"longer" so that I can extend it closer in toward the fuselage. One other
thought is to re-do the flap root end components (e.g. the FL-406B plate)
repositioning this so that it is positioned closer to the fuselage. Has
anyone gone through this same problem? Solutions? Is there a longer CM-4MS
(I'm checking with Van's also). Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling Pinholes |
About the canopy skirt, for what it's worth, here's what the instructions
that came with my finish kit has to say about the canopy skirt:
"Note: The canopy skirt is made with epoxy resin, and only epoxies should
be used when shimming or filling. Polyester resin will not give
satisfactory results over epoxy."
Page 9-3, 6/19/01
Terry
RV-8A canopy skirt
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 engine selection |
I'm looking for some advice on engine selection for my RV-8. I've seen
the posts in the archives, but none of them really answer my questions.
I'm interested in comparing the new O-360 varieties from Van's. Cost may
or may not matter that much (yet to be determined).
First, does anyone have any experience with Unison's LASAR ignition
system for Lycomings? It's about $2000. From everything I read there
seems to be about a 1 gallon/hour savings with the system (among other
things). If I go this route, how easy will it be to sell the brand new
regular mags that come on the new engine?
Second.. Below are the possible engine choices that I have if I buy a
new Lycoming engine from Van's. Is fuel injection worth the extra price?
Will it be cheaper/easier to maintain in the long run? How does it
affect aircraft resale value?
If I'm going to get the fuel injected model, should I just go ahead and
get the 200HP model? Is that worth the extra money? The performance
difference isn't that great between the 180HP and the 200HP engines, but
the only RV I've flown had a 200HP in it, so I don't have any personal
experience with which to form an opinion.
Has any one of these engines had more issues or problems than any other
one? Are there any other factors that I should be considering?
I'm particularly interested in comments from any A&Ps who have had some
time to develop a "relationship" with any of these engines.
$__________O-360-A1A 180 hp. $21,850.00
$__________IO-360-M1B 180 hp. $26,995.00
$__________IO-360-A1B6 200 hp. $31,300.00
Thanks.
Geoff Evans
RV-8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Gauge Problem |
I tested my fuel gauges and senders (standard senders from Van's) and no
matter where
I set the variable resistance (the float) the gauge indicates full. What
gauge of wire
should I be using to test this? Any other ideas? I have a standard 12 V
garden tractor
battery that I use for all tests including lighting and flap motor.
Thankx
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
mating wings and fuse
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Thanks for all the replies. I've returned the Rage Gold to the SW
store. I'll be buying/ordering the West System 206 and assorted glass
and Superfil this weekend.
I'm also going to get some FixIt and experiment with it a little. Does
anyone have experience with it? ACS carries it, but there is more
detailed info here: http://www.avesstudio.com/aves/fixit.htm.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canopy skirt
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 engine selection |
> First, does anyone have any experience with Unison's LASAR ignition
> system for Lycomings? It's about $2000. From everything I read there
> seems to be about a 1 gallon/hour savings with the system (among other
> things). If I go this route, how easy will it be to sell the brand new
> regular mags that come on the new engine?
Yes, I went the LASAR route and am glad I did. I fly with other similarly
powered RVs all the time and the difference it makes is notable. You get
anywhere from .5 to 1.0 gph reduction in fuel flow depending on power
setting and altitude, and they claim a 7% power boost which I can believe. I
inadvertenly left my LASAR switch off one time and was flying close
formation with a 180 c/s RV-6. We had been flying in a stable cruise for
about 20 minutes. I then turned the switch on and began slowly creeping
forward... had to make a small power reduction to match speed. Also, on hot
days I turn it off when doing extended climbs and see a 10 degree or so
reduction in oil temp, a 20-30 degree reduction in CHTs, and an increase in
EGTs. Of course that indicates it's simply burnin the fuel/air charge more
completely and efficiently in the combustion chamber and therefore
generating more heat. Starting is also easier and plugs foul less. Lastly,
factory support is superb. BTW, any new engine you buy can be had with LASAR
instead of mags and in that case the difference is usually around $1,300.
One tip, specifiy the unit without the CHT temp circuit, it's a long story.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 231 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Gauge Problem |
Steve,
Do you have the body of the sending unit (or tanks if they're mounted)
grounded to the negative pole of the battery?
If not there's no return path to measure the varibale resistance of the
sender - thus infinite resistance and a full tank indication (I believe).
Todd Houg
RV9A - http://www.toddhoug.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve J Hurlbut [mailto:sjhdcl(at)kingston.net]
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Gauge Problem
I tested my fuel gauges and senders (standard senders from Van's) and no
matter where
I set the variable resistance (the float) the gauge indicates full. What
gauge of wire
should I be using to test this? Any other ideas? I have a standard 12 V
garden tractor
battery that I use for all tests including lighting and flap motor.
Thankx
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
mating wings and fuse
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rage on Epoxy |
I don't want to start a long dissertation or a flame-fest, but one reason
for this list is to share opinions. Re: Superfil . . . I don't like the
stuff. I didn't like the viscosity. I didn't like the way it spreads. And
I didn't like the small air bubbles I'd get. I switched to my home brew
West System 206 with microballoons . . . can make any amount of slurry I
want . . . any viscosity I want . . . and I haven't had a bubble issue.
Sands great. That's my two cents. Good luck.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rage on Epoxy
>
> Thanks for all the replies. I've returned the Rage Gold to the SW
> store. I'll be buying/ordering the West System 206 and assorted glass
> and Superfil this weekend.
>
> I'm also going to get some FixIt and experiment with it a little. Does
> anyone have experience with it? ACS carries it, but there is more
> detailed info here: http://www.avesstudio.com/aves/fixit.htm.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 canopy skirt
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anywhere moving map |
You'll no doubt get many raves about it so let me offer a less than
enthusiastic view. I just returned from Oshkosh using it in my Navion
and I've flown with it about 50 hrs since I got the airplane in May. It
certainly works but you need to decide what's important to you. I'm
using it because 1) I already had an Ipaq so the incremental cost was
cheaper than any other handheld GPS. 2) a VOR (and inop Loran) is the
only other navigation equipment currently in the airplane. 3) I already
had an Ipaq. 4) I like color displays. 5) Did I mention I already had an
Ipaq?
I'm using it with a CF card GPS, CF sleeve, remote antenna, power cord
and yoke mount. IF I did it again I'd use the GPS 35 instead of the CF
card. No fewer cables but it would not be as tall and would get rid of
the CF sleeve. As it is now it blocks my view of the VSI and access to
the altimeter knob.
I think my biggest heartburn is that it's not a dedicated unit - it's a
lashup of 5 pieces of hardware plus the Pocket PC OS/software and AWM
software - any of which is a failure point that can bring it down. I had
the Ipaq display spaz out on me on a long x-country and had to revert to
VOR. It's unsettling to lose it unexpectedly even when VFR. It also
takes a lot longer to get it assembled and online vs a dedicated unit.
On my IFR X-C my CFI whipped out his Pilot III, punched ON, threw it on
the glareshield and had a position before I could get all my parts out
of the case. The friend who flew with me to Oshkosh had a Garmin 295
which just sat unobtrusively on the glareshield with only a power cord.
I can't really compare features between them since it was his first
flight with the 295 but I found the display crisper and more readable
than the Ipaq. We also flew 2+ hours in the dark and the difference was
startling. The night mode on the 295 was subdued but very readable yet
did not produce any distracting glare. AWM however was terrible. The
night mode colors (if they're changeable I can't find it) did not have
enough contrast to read airport Ids. Worse, the front-lighted screen of
the Ipaq (nothing AWM can fix) created tremendous glare and reflections.
I had to cover the Ipaq to see any detail outside.
I have made an uneasy peace with the touch screen. I worry constantly
about dropping the stylus. The current version (1.25a) is much improved
for selection and data entry but there is still a looonnnggg way to go.
The Navion is pretty stable but I still have trouble. I'm also
constantly changing the display detail shown which requires hitting tiny
check boxes. I change the display because of clutter. It doesn't change
the amount of detail shown as you change display range or at least it
doesn't change it to my liking. Getting more info on displayed items
requires a very accurate stab and a lot of luck. If there are multiple
items near a point it always seems to pull the wrong one. We were flying
near the TFR at Texarkana (Red River Ordinance depot) and I tried for 10
minutes to stab it to verify the altitude once it showed on the display.
I got info on the airport, the city and several obstacles but couldn't
seem to hold my tongue right to get the TFR info. I gave up when I
realized we would be well clear laterally.
AWM has a lot of capability and there's a lot to like but I find I have
to fiddle with it way too much. I really like moving maps but I've flown
all over the country without radios and then later with just a Flybuddy
loran. I like the simplicity of being able to just jump in and go and
keep my head outside. I guess I'm just a panel mount kind of guy. The
Navion will soon be getting the GX-65 and SL-30 from my -6. When it does
I'll keep the Ipaq/AWM as a backup but I doubt it will get much use. As
always YMMV.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> I'm interested in Control Vison's Anywhere moving map
> software. There was a review of it in the July Kitplanes
> magazine and it sounds great.
> Does anyone else have any experience with it?
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anywhere moving map |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>You'll no doubt get many raves about it so let me offer a less than
>enthusiastic view.
Greg,
I was also less than enthusiastic about my, now sold, AWM system. As for
the stylus issue, I found an ordinary ball point pen, with the pen
retracted, and a plastic tip, was much easier to use than the stylus, and
much less easy to lose. Of course, it makes for yet another part to keep
track of.
Like you, I am a panel mount guy.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8-List: Cabin consols a la Hefel |
I have modified my consoles like Lyl's but I did it using just pictures of
from internet sites and my own engineering. I also used Van's upgraded
throttle and moved it back on to the wing bulkhead. If you desire, I'll
send you some pictures. Lyl doesn't have an E-Mail but You can call him.
Search the archives with the search engine and you will find Lyl's number
in one of the msg. Iwoulld use his name as a key word. I'm on road right
now and don't have his number with me. Ed OConnor RV-8 N366RV. Finish
Kit recieved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Gauge Problem Solved |
Figured it out guys. Simple ground contact was not working. Only took 3 hrs
to
fix it. Gauges and senders work great. Moving on.
Steve
RV-7A
Mating fuse with wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Gauge Problem |
Simply short to ground the sender input to the meter, look at the meter, and
then remove the short and look again. If the meter goes full scale in one
case and to zero in the other, the sender is faulty. If the meter stays
full scale, it's the meter.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
> I tested my fuel gauges and senders (standard senders from Van's) and no
> matter where
> I set the variable resistance (the float) the gauge indicates full. What
> gauge of wire
> should I be using to test this? Any other ideas? I have a standard 12 V
> garden tractor
> battery that I use for all tests including lighting and flap motor.
>
> Thankx
> Steve Hurlbut
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rocket for sale |
In a message dated 7/27/02 5:39:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
BrownScottA(at)aol.com writes:
> F-1 ROCKET KIT, ENGINE, PROP,INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE
Scott, I returned from Oshkosh yesterday.Did you get the picture I
sent of my -4? it`s a 180hp C.S. engine bought from Vans with 320 hrs.TT it
has inverted fuel and oil if interested Give me a call. (909)5997334
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 cs EAA tech counselor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 A1A Engine for sale |
you forgot the price
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 engine selection |
Geoff,
There are a lot of ways to look at this. Here are some considerations:
- There are a lot of good deals on IO-360s, many are pulls from Mooney
conversions to Continental 6 cylinder. This is a great way to get your
project flying for 2-3 years, then overhaul the engine. I could not justify
the increased cost of a new IO-360 over a new O-360.
- I prefer fuel injection. I back fitted the Airflow Performance injection
on my new O-360 from Van's. The sale of the new carb help to offset the
price of the system.
- LASAR ignition is a good option. Some form of electronic ignition seems
to be well worth the time and expense. I installed dual Lightspeed ignition
systems, selling the mags to help offset the price. I selected Lightspeed
over the LASAR as I have independent left/right electrical systems, thus the
magneto backup feature of the LASAR is not needed. This also eliminated
some life cycle costs associated with the LASAR that is not present with the
Lightspeed.
- Selling the mags and carb off the new engine took a less than a day as I
posted them on the RV list!
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (Flying)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Geoff Evans
Subject: RV-List: RV8 engine selection
I'm looking for some advice on engine selection for my RV-8. I've seen
the posts in the archives, but none of them really answer my questions.
I'm interested in comparing the new O-360 varieties from Van's. Cost may
or may not matter that much (yet to be determined).
First, does anyone have any experience with Unison's LASAR ignition
system for Lycomings? It's about $2000. From everything I read there
seems to be about a 1 gallon/hour savings with the system (among other
things). If I go this route, how easy will it be to sell the brand new
regular mags that come on the new engine?
Second.. Below are the possible engine choices that I have if I buy a
new Lycoming engine from Van's. Is fuel injection worth the extra price?
Will it be cheaper/easier to maintain in the long run? How does it
affect aircraft resale value?
If I'm going to get the fuel injected model, should I just go ahead and
get the 200HP model? Is that worth the extra money? The performance
difference isn't that great between the 180HP and the 200HP engines, but
the only RV I've flown had a 200HP in it, so I don't have any personal
experience with which to form an opinion.
Has any one of these engines had more issues or problems than any other
one? Are there any other factors that I should be considering?
I'm particularly interested in comments from any A&Ps who have had some
time to develop a "relationship" with any of these engines.
$__________O-360-A1A 180 hp. $21,850.00
$__________IO-360-M1B 180 hp. $26,995.00
$__________IO-360-A1B6 200 hp. $31,300.00
Thanks.
Geoff Evans
RV-8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere moving map |
One thing that has not been mentioned lately regarding all of the new
avionics technology is the almost irresistible urge to look at and
reconfigure the displays. The better and more capable the display is the
stronger the tendency becomes to play with all the various features. Any
time spent doing this is head down time when we are not looking outside of
the cockpit.
It takes some discipline to find the display settings that are most useful
for each phase of the flight and then leave the system alone and go back to
looking outside. Naturally this is even more important in the departure and
arrival phases of the flight.
Do not archieve.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS
Savannah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 engine selection |
>>
>I'm looking for some advice on engine selection for my RV-8. I've seen
>the posts in the archives, but none of them really answer my questions.
There is no right answer, no black or white to choosing how to power an RV8.
When I was going through the angst of engine decision making, I found more
questions than answers. You just have to draw the line on the dollar
figure, write the check, mount it up and go fly. As long as it stays
running, just about anything short of a lawnmower engine is great fun! Now,
the lawnmower engine of today is a much more advanced and refined powerplant
than the Lycoming...but I digress.
>
>I'm interested in comparing the new O-360 varieties from Van's. Cost may
>or may not matter that much (yet to be determined).
Make your move now! A Lycoming/Subaru/Conny/Franklin/Ford/whatever is
probably a safer place to store your money than the stock market. *sigh*
>
>First, does anyone have any experience with Unison's LASAR ignition
>system for Lycomings? It's about $2000. From everything I read there
>seems to be about a 1 gallon/hour savings with the system (among other
>things). If I go this route, how easy will it be to sell the brand new
>regular mags that come on the new engine?
The Lasar is a great system, but not cheap. Lots of them are flying on RV's
with excellent results. If you order an engine from Bart Lalonde (HIGHLY
recommended), he'll build it to suit...Lasar, Lightspeed, mags, whatever you
want.
>
>Second.. Below are the possible engine choices that I have if I buy a
>new Lycoming engine from Van's. Is fuel injection worth the extra price?
>Will it be cheaper/easier to maintain in the long run? How does it
>affect aircraft resale value?
The injected vs. carbureted debate rages just as hot as the nose vs.
tailwheel war. You want the best fuel distribution, inverted capability and
the joy of dealing with hot starts? Go injected. You want dirt simple
operation, easy starts and don't care to hang upside down in the straps? Put
a carb on it. I like the carb. I also like not having to deal with a high
pressure fuel pump and those tiny little spider distribution lines sitting
on top of the engine.
>
>If I'm going to get the fuel injected model, should I just go ahead and
>get the 200HP model? Is that worth the extra money? The performance
>difference isn't that great between the 180HP and the 200HP engines, but
>the only RV I've flown had a 200HP in it, so I don't have any personal
>experience with which to form an opinion.
We all kneel to the blessed mother of horsepower. No doubt about that.
Unless you're a really serious speed and climb junkie, the extra 20hp isn't
worth the cost. Look at Jeff Ludwig's performance in the past few
Airventure Cup races. He has a very clean 180 hp/Hartzell powered -8. He
averaged around 210 mph last week. I say that's fast enough. My
Sensenich/180hp will do 200 mph all day long if I want to listen to the prop
at 2700 rpm. I'm simply not in that much of a hurry to get there, unless I
gotta pee. The angle valve 200hp engine is also heavier. I believe Bart,
or most any of the prominent engine builders out there can tweak a parallel
valve engine to put out 195 hp or so without too much drastic hacking and
whacking on the thing. The only time...and I mean ONLY time...that I lust
for the extra 20 ponies is when I'm trying to maintain station on another RV
powered with the bigger engine. Yeah, it sucks when you can't keep up. But
then I go fly with another guy in a wood prop/O-320 RV4 and blow his doors
off. Hah! Ah life...it's all a balance ya know. Yin and yang, Abbott and
Costello, Punch and Judy...
>
>Has any one of these engines had more issues or problems than any other
>one? Are there any other factors that I should be considering?
My only major complaint with my O-360 is the cylinder design. I mean,
well...it's terrible. At least Superior and ECI are making some
improvements in metallurgy and casting design to help reduce head cracking.
I've had to replace two overhauled chrome Lycoming jugs. Maybe it's my
fixed pitch situation, in that I can't keep power up during the descents as
well as the constant speed. Or, they just wore out. Who knows? Randy had
to change out the jugs on his engine due to a break-in problem. It's yet
another roll of the dice with a new engine, or newly overhauled even. You
get one shot at seating the rings, or you're back to square one. The IO or
carbureted engine has no major differences in long term serviceability that
I know of. I can overhaul a carb quite easily. I have no idea whatsoever
about the inner workings of a fuel servo. I wouldn't even dream of tearing
one apart. Of course, you could pull either one and send it off to a
certified repair station.
>I'm particularly interested in comments from any A&Ps who have had some
>time to develop a "relationship" with any of these engines.
I'm not an A&P (yet). My relationship has been very good. My Lycosaur only
let me down once...due to my neophyte ignorance during installation. Since
then, it has performed perfectly. Oh yeah, the Lightspeed ignition ROCKS.
;)
>
>$__________O-360-A1A 180 hp. $21,850.00
>$__________IO-360-M1B 180 hp. $26,995.00
>$__________IO-360-A1B6 200 hp. $31,300.00
Ack. I cannot comprehend how these clunky old beasts can cost so much. I
spent $12k on mine, with 300 hrs SMOH out of a storm wrecked Beech
Sundowner. Just bolt it on and go fly. For $21K, I would opt for the new
Superior XP engine. Lycoming hasn't fixed anything since man started to
walk upright. Superior has fixed a few things. If I was looking for an
engine now, with my experience as an RV builder/operator to look back upon,
I would have Bart build up an XP engine, parallel valve, carbureted,
constant speed, with a few tweaks to get the hp up closer to 190 or so.
Have fun with your decision! Hell, even an O-320/Hartzell is a killer
setup. You'll still eat up spam cans in the pattern with ease.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
295 hrs.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Lord / Barry mounts |
Hi fellows,
I am looking for a source of engineering data on the Lord or Barry mounts
for the engine. I need technical information, plus the dimensions. I
have checked the Barry website, but to my surprise they dont seem to give
technical specs.
Does anyone know where I can find this stuff?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 - 13b engine installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 meeting in 2003 |
Hello Yall,
You should be able to get on the grounds with the previous days pass until
about 10 A.M. I had a morning departure at Sun-n-Fun and was told this
by one of the EAA board members. Get in the grounds and wait for the
meeting. The theater in the woods is the perfect spot.
George Meketa
RV8-N444TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 meeting in 2003
>
> Hello fellow 8 drivers and builders,
> Had a thought regarding next years get-togethers at OSH. I missed the
> Sunday meeting because we planned a Sunday AM departure from the
> campgrounds. In order to gain access to the Theater in the woods a Sunday
> ticket would have to be purchased. A suggestion would be to meet instead
at
> the shaded "flag" area just east of the Red Barn Store. This way, those
> departing on the day of the meeting could join in the fun with out
purchase
> of another ticket. Just a thought.
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> DSM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gyro Instruments |
> I have read several comments about RC Allen but have seen very little
about
> Sigmatek. Aside from the Sigmatek vacuum gyros being slightly more
> expensive do you guys have any other comments pro or con?
Can only speak for myself: my RC-Allen AH seems to be holding up very well
after 400 hours with occasional positive-G aerobatics. My Sigma-Tek DG is
right-on too, although once in a while it gets to spinning after aero -- and
I mean REALLY spinning!
> I have been following the Dynon vs EFIS Lite debate and would love to use
> one of those units BUT I don't think I have the time to wait for one of
them
> to establish a track record. If I have to change a vacuum pump every
three
> to five years so be it. I am building a day/night VFR bird so vacuum
> failure is not catastrophic.
Personally I wouldn't put a vacum system in if I were building a VFR bird.
All those hoses, that pump, that weight -- argh! Yes, vacum gyros do have a
track record -- and its pretty lousy. I say GO FOR THE DYNON! Shoot, If I
were starting again and wasn't quite comfortable with the Dynon yet I'd at
least just leave the holes blank and wait until I had more confidence in it
before sticking in a vacum system. Just my opinion... :-}
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
Larry -- one thing to ask for from your West System dealer is the West
System User Manual (product code 002-950) It's free, and it is one of the
best technical manuals I have ever had the pleasure of using. Also, buy the
West System Mini Pumps -- they'll make getting the right ratio between resin
and hardener a breeze (as someone else on the list also suggest, I think).
Based on what I heard on this list, I was dreading working on fibreglass,
but using the West System made it very straightforward -- it's a product
line and company that absolutely has its act together. Lest I go on ad
nauseum, Gougeon will even send you a three year subscription to Epoxyworks,
their (also) excellent quarterly publication, also for free. It's so easy,
you might even get it in your head to build a plastic airplane.
Naaaaaaaah, maybe not.
Terry (not a Gougeon Brothers employee) in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rage on Epoxy
Thanks for all the replies. I've returned the Rage Gold to the SW store.
I'll be buying/ordering the West System 206 and assorted glass and Superfil
this weekend.
I'm also going to get some FixIt and experiment with it a little. Does
anyone have experience with it? ACS carries it, but there is more detailed
info here: http://www.avesstudio.com/aves/fixit.htm.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canopy skirt
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Installation |
Gentlemen,
I am in the process of putting everything together for my engine
installation. What material should the line from the prop governor to the
crankshaft connection be, aluminium, stainless steel, possibly a hose?
Should the fittings be aluminum or steel? Also, what size should the line
be, 3/8?
Vince Welch
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
Commercial message follows:
Well, my RV hasn't sold yet, so I'm reducing the price. I've created an
eBay auction with no reserve. The starting bid is $115K. The eBay item
number is 1848672307.
I sure need to get this thing sold ASAP...
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 N118KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Installation |
VINCE- SUGGEST YOU GET LYCOMING SERVICE BULLETIN 488A. OIL LINE SUPPORT AND
SERVICE INSTRUCTION 1435. FLEXIBLE LINE INSTALLATION. THESE WILL TAKE ALL
THE GUESS WORK OUT OF WHAT YOU WANT TO DO. REGARDS---TOM.
Whelan Farms Airport / CT01
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
e-mail: wfact01(at)aol.com
Telephone: 203-266-5300
Fax: 203-266-5140
President, EAA Chapter 1097
EAA Technical Counselor
RV-8 Lycoming IO540 (Getting Close)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Constant Speed Installation |
Lycoming's line is stainless with steel fittings. It's expensive (~$160) but
critical.
Greg
>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I am in the process of putting everything together for my engine
> installation. What material should the line from the prop
> governor to the
> crankshaft connection be, aluminium, stainless steel, possibly a hose?
> Should the fittings be aluminum or steel? Also, what size should
> the line
> be, 3/8?
>
> Vince Welch
>
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Installation |
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb488.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> WFACT01(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 10:35 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Installation
>
>
>
> VINCE- SUGGEST YOU GET LYCOMING SERVICE BULLETIN 488A. OIL
> LINE SUPPORT AND
> SERVICE INSTRUCTION 1435. FLEXIBLE LINE INSTALLATION. THESE
> WILL TAKE ALL
> THE GUESS WORK OUT OF WHAT YOU WANT TO DO. REGARDS---TOM.
>
> Whelan Farms Airport / CT01
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> e-mail: wfact01(at)aol.com
> Telephone: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 203-266-5140
> President, EAA Chapter 1097
> EAA Technical Counselor
> RV-8 Lycoming IO540 (Getting Close)
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Installation |
In a message dated 8/3/2002 7:06:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I am in the process of putting everything together for my engine
> installation. What material should the line from the prop governor to the
> crankshaft connection be, aluminum, stainless steel, possibly a hose?
Stainless or hose.
> Should the fittings be aluminum or steel?
Steel at the front and a special swivel brass fitting is what Lycoming uses
at the governor to get the clocking right.
Also, what size should the line
> be, 3/8?
Yes.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 560hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord / Barry mounts |
Gordon--
http://www.powersportaviation.com
uses "custom" Barry mounts for their 13B installation. You might try giving
them a holler.
Boyd.
Gordon Robertson wrote:
>
> Hi fellows,
>
> I am looking for a source of engineering data on the Lord or Barry mounts
> for the engine. I need technical information, plus the dimensions. I
> have checked the Barry website, but to my surprise they dont seem to give
> technical specs.
>
> Does anyone know where I can find this stuff?
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 - 13b engine installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Installation |
RV8 N8XYflies July 4th IO540 ,This is the 4th 540 powered 8 tofly in the indy
aera ,3more will be flying this summer .Performance is awsom ,numbers later
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Hesselroth" <notice(at)dtgi.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale on eBay: RV-7/7A Preview Plans Set/Construction |
Manual
Regrettably, I'm going to be unable to start construction of an RV-7A for a
while, so I'm selling the preview plans on eBay. They're in perfect
condition, I just read/flipped through them once.
If you haven't used eBay before, it's a piece of cake. Bidding starts at
$25.00, high bid wins, and shipping is $12.00. You can pay with VIsa or
Mastercard, or send a personal check.
Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1553835753&rd=1
Please email me with any questions: dale.h(at)dtgi.com
Thanks.
Dale
P.S. Here are Van's links about the manual:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/ppset.htm
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/conmanul.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
"rv8list(at)egroups.com"
Does anybody know the MSC partnumber for the Norton cut-off disks Van's
supplies with their canopee, Finishing kit ??
I thought I saw a mentioning that MSC has the same disks but I cannot
seem to find it in the archives........
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Forero" <bert6(at)mybluelight.com> |
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone on the list used the template that Scott (Abayman) posted on Don
Jordans website? I am ready to cut mine and would like to use the "teardrop"
type cutout.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Any week now !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Hi,
Today while flying my RV-6 to a pancake breakfast, my "High Voltage" light
turned on. 15.5 volts give or take. I tried resetting the system to no
avail.
On the way back, everything was working fine again until about 10 minutes
into the flight, the "Alt Field" breaker popped.
I am running Van's 35A alternator with Van's adjustable voltage regulator.
Does this sound like a bad voltage regulator? If not, what could the
problem be? How can I prevent this in the future?
Any thought?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E 55 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | High Voltage problem |
Hi,
Today while flying my RV-6 to a pancake breakfast, my "High Voltage" light
turned on. 15.5 volts give or take. I tried resetting the system to no
avail.
On the way back, everything was working fine again until about 10 minutes
into the flight, the "Alt Field" breaker popped.
I am running Van's 35A alternator with Van's adjustable voltage regulator.
Does this sound like a bad voltage regulator? If not, what could the
problem be? How can I prevent this in the future?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E 55 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | bigger engines in RVs |
Lycoming just announced a IO-390 for experimentals.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: bigger engines in RVs
Hello Wayne
If you want an RV with a bigger engine build an F1 or F2 rocket, it has been
engineered for it. I am sticking with an IO360 for my RV7, it should be
lots of power for me.
Gord Lomoth
RV7 wings
>From: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: bigger engines in RVs
>Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 11:50:12 -0400
>
>
>My buddy and I are about to take the plunge and start our RV7 this fall.
>I've been reading all the "tools" posts with avid interest, particularly
>any
>used tool sets that become available. He's at Oshkosh--I couldn't go this
>year and I would not be shocked to find that he's ordered the tailfeathers
>kit while up there, especially if Vans is using the 7 for demo rides this
>year.
>
>Eventually we plan on putting it on floats and will be building it with
>that
>in mind. Because of the extra drag etc they will cause we are interested
>in
>something more than a 200hp 360 engine. We have looked at the various alt
>engines, Subbies and Mazdas as well as the Ford & Chev v6 & small v8
>packages. Nothing seems quite "right" at this time. We are contemplating
>the use of a 540 and would be interested in hearing form or corresponding
>with anyone who has hung a 540 on their RV6. I know we are a year or two
>out from the point where it will be needed but we tend to do a lot of
>thinking, research and planning before we jump. Any information or advice
>would be very appreciated. D. Wayne Stiles
>
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
I had planned on looking at and possibly purchasing an oxygen system at
Oshkosh this year, but low ceiling turned it into IFRventure for me, and I
couldn't make the trip.
That said, are there any qualitative differences between the various
commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web sites, I can't
really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox, Mountain High,
and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best price for a two place
system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there any reason to stay away from
an Aerox system?
Thanks in advance.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Over Voltage |
Try taking the voltage regulator apart and clean the points with emery
cloth. They might have gotten stuck together.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Over Voltage
>
> Hi,
>
> Today while flying my RV-6 to a pancake breakfast, my "High Voltage" light
> turned on. 15.5 volts give or take. I tried resetting the system to no
> avail.
>
> On the way back, everything was working fine again until about 10 minutes
> into the flight, the "Alt Field" breaker popped.
>
> I am running Van's 35A alternator with Van's adjustable voltage regulator.
>
> Does this sound like a bad voltage regulator? If not, what could the
> problem be? How can I prevent this in the future?
>
> Any thought?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E 55 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Over Voltage |
In a message dated 8/3/2002 5:22:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> Try taking the voltage regulator apart and clean the points with emery
> cloth. They might have gotten stuck together.
Try using an uncoated business card to burnish the contacts if you want to
keep that POJ regulator. Try to avoid anything more abrasive, as it just
sets you up for further point degradation.
IMO, get the B&C alternator and regulator, but that's only if you REALLY want
to prevent the problem.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 560hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
In a message dated 8/3/2002 5:04:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
> Are there any qualitative differences between the various
> commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web sites, I
> can't
> really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox, Mountain
> High,
> and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best price for a two place
> system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there any reason to stay away from
>
> an Aerox system?
My 13 cuft Aerox 2 place system purchased from Chief 3 yrs ago works
perfectly.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 560hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
Kyle,
I just bought the Aerox 2E system which is 22 cubic feet. It's the same length
as
the 13 cubic foot bottle and a little bigger diameter. I didn't think that I
needed the bigger bottle but it's only about $15 more and fits in the same space
as the smaller bottle. I mounted it horizontally behind the right seat and the
regulator is very accessible between the seats. However, I have mechanical flaps
and I don't think this mounting would work with electric flaps.
We used it on our trip to OSH and were very happy with it. I should have bought
one years ago!
Check their website: http://www.aerox.com
Dave -6 So Cal
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I had planned on looking at and possibly purchasing an oxygen system at
> Oshkosh this year, but low ceiling turned it into IFRventure for me, and I
> couldn't make the trip.
>
> That said, are there any qualitative differences between the various
> commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web sites, I can't
> really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox, Mountain High,
> and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best price for a two place
> system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there any reason to stay away from
> an Aerox system?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Over Voltage |
>>>I am running Van's 35A alternator with Van's adjustable voltage
regulator.
>>>Does this sound like a bad voltage regulator? If not, what could the
>>>problem be? How can I prevent this in the future?
> > Try taking the voltage regulator apart and clean the points with emery
> > cloth. They might have gotten stuck together.
> Try using an uncoated business card to burnish the contacts if you want to
> keep that POJ regulator. Try to avoid anything more abrasive, as it just
> sets you up for further point degradation.
Huh? The Van's adjustable regulator is totally solid state, encased in a
brick of epoxy, or at least mine is. Clean the points? That sounds like a
fix for an old electromechanical regulator.I doubt even Cessna still uses
those.
I would try adjusting the regultor voltage first, as the adjustment pot
might be acting up. There isn't anything else that is adjustable of
replaceable. The regulator is probably defective. I have an extra Van's
unit, new, that I would sell cheap. The only catch is that the connector was
cut off so I could wire it up directly. I decided on an internally regulated
alternator in the end, so I don't need this one.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel Fairings Inboard U810 problem |
Listers:
Finally installing VA-157, two piece wheel fairings on a 4. The U-810
brackets shown on the Section A-A, show the bracket attachment points to
be above the axel. After installation of the brackets, the rear
attachment point is well below the axel and the front point is just
about even. Can anyone yield light on this. I have the aircraft level,
off the ground (1/16") and squared.
thanks
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems (long) |
On 3 Aug 2002, at 20:00, KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> That said, are there any qualitative differences between the various
> commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web
sites, I
> can't really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox,
> Mountain High, and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best
> price for a two place system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there
> any reason to stay away from an Aerox system?
Kyle,
I bought a Nelson system at AirVenture 2001, and have used it
extensively. Good system. Here's part of an Aviation Consumer
article on portable oxygen systems. I recommend buying a
subscription to Aviation Consumer because of this sort of high
quality information. http://www.aviation-consumer.com
Portable Oxygen Systems
It's the carry case, stupid. Nelson has the best and since the systems
are functionally alike, they're our choice.
The use of supplemental oxygen pilots is
growing, perhaps fed by an increasing
awareness of how dangerous hypoxia can
be and the availability of inexpensive pulse
oximeters that show just how oxygen
deficient you can get, even at low altitudes.
Just as when we last examined these
products six years ago, our evaluation
shows that all the systems we looked at will
provide a reliable source of oxygen.
The changes in equipment available today
are relatively minor and the improvements
and differences are in the details-details
that make a difference in convenience,
value, and in some instances, safety.
Four Sources
There are still four players in this market, Aerox, Aircraft Industries
(Sky Ox), Mountain High Equipment & Supply (MHE&S) and Precise
Flight (Nelson). Precise Flight bought Nelson in 1998, making few
changes in the product line. Selecting a system can be confusing,
since there are many similarities between the products and many share
the same components.
Your first decision will be size. Two-person systems are a bit less
expensive because a smaller cylinder is often used and there are fewer
cannulas and masks to purchase.
MHE&S is unique in its wide choice of cylinders for the same price.
However, except for Mountain High's electronic EDS systems, the
incremental cost of upgrading to a four-person system isn't much,
while upgrading later can cost a good deal more, regardless of the
system.
Advice: If you think you'll ever need oxygen for four, buy it at the
outset. You'll probably save money.
The second criteria is system management. Will one person manage it
for everyone or do you want to allow individuals to manage their
own oxygen? The standard Sky Ox system is designed around the
former philosophy, the rest subscribe to the latter.
Before deciding, understand that individual oxygen needs vary, thus
a single oxygen flow setting may result in higher consumption than
necessary for one person, too little for another.
With individual adjustment, each user can set the flow rate to what
they require, which we think is the better solution, given individual
differences. Portability is an issue, too. Some "portable"
systems are installed with brackets holding the cylinder to the floor or
sidewall. It's removed only for filling, maybe, and the case may or may
not be used for transporting the cylinder.
Commonalities
All the aluminum cylinders used by the suppliers are basically the
same. The differences are in volume and dimensions. Volume is
related to system size and duration required. Most two- and
four-person systems use 22 to 24 cubic foot cylinders and we'd
recommend that size as a minimum.
We suggest getting the largest cylinder you can afford,
in cost, size and weight. Kevlar-wound aluminum
cylinders are available for significantly more money and
50 percent weight savings may be worth it to some.
Aerox, MHE&S and Nelson's Sportsman systems all
use essentially the same piston style regulator,
compact, simple and reliable. With the exception of the
MHE&S EDS system, all provide Chad conserving
cannulas. If you don't like their standard style, they'll
give you the other style for no extra cost.
All use similar basic non-rebreather style soft plastic
masks (bag attached) except for the MHE&S EDS
mask, which dispenses with the bag. The masks are
uncomfortable enough that many avoid their use, either
limiting flight to 18,000 feet and below or using cannulas
above that altitude, despite regulations to the contrary.
Aerox and Sky Ox provide only a single mask for the
pilot as standard equipment. With Nelson and MH
systems, everyone gets a mask.
Aerox
The Aerox regulator has its small brass quick connectors protruding
out of the top of the body. With the cylinder mounted on the seat
back, these present a potential danger to a rearseat passenger,
something that wouldn't be a problem if the unit were semi-
permanently installed on its side.
Aerox offers two flow adjustment systems using the same brass
needle valve. We like that brass valve for its inherent strength and
resistance to damage and deterioration. In the standard
system, the valve is located on the male quick connect fitting at the
regulator.
A dual-range (cannula and mask) 22,000- foot flowmeter is located at
the other end of the supply line and the cannula or mask attach to the
outlet. With this design, there's no high pressure in
the hose from the regulator to a remote valve, a good feature.
The Aerox case is constructed of lightweight nylon material laminated
to 3/16 inch insubstantial foam with a lightweight "fuzzy" lining
bonded to the foam. There's nothing to retain the cylinder in
the case, so if the zipper is open, it could come out in transport or in
turbulence.
Also, the harness straps made it difficult to operate the shutoff valve.
The mounting harness is a poor knock-off of Nelson's, in our view,
and attaching and removing it with a 22-cubic foot
cylinder was awkward due to the webbing design. No storage for
cannulas or masks is included.
Aerox provided a sample of its Quick Donning Type, Double Seal
Silicon Mask with electret microphone. This same Aerox mask was
also supplied by Nelson and Sky Ox. It proved comfortable and
provided better sound quality than any other such mask we have
tried.
Whether it's worth $385 is questionable, although one volunteer
tester purchased the unit he tested for his own use. A less expensive
option is the same mask, sans microphone for $120.
It's equipped with a diaphragm that allows you to be heard through
the mask and to use your mic. Sound quality suffers, but it's readable.
We got sound quality equivalent to these expensive masks by
slipping a headset mic through cross slits cut in the side of the
standard mask (with no noticeable reduction in oxygenation).
Not elegant, but effective.
Sky Ox
Upfront we'll mention this system's most significant failing: Its case,
which we feel makes it unacceptable for portable use. While Sky Ox
claims the bag can be used to secure the system,
it has only a shoulder strap, with no other means to fasten it securely.
The bag has a clear plastic window so you can check the cylinder
pressure without opening it and a drawstring bag is included for
cannulas and mask storage.
Sky Ox is the only manufacturer who supplies the pendant style
conserving cannula as standard.
Flexible plastic loops go over the ears and we found them surprisingly
comfortable for the most part. The pendant's nasal tubes are more
comfortable without the reservoir and this allows you
to drink without removing the cannula, important because oxygen
dries you out.
With the Sky Ox system, flow rate is set at the regulator for all users.
The gauge is marked in both flow rates (liters per minute) and altitude.
A instruction sheet provided explains LPM settings but reading
closely reveals that the altitude markings are for mask use only, while
cannula use isn't explicitly marked. We think it would be better to
annotate the gauge for both cannula and mask and not rely upon a
slip of paper that's sure to be lost.
Mountain High
We tested two systems from Mountain High, a conventional system
using Nelson A4 flowmeters and conserving cannulas and their
unique EDS Electronic Pulse-Demand Oxygen
Delivery System.
As far as the conventional system goes, the only significant
difference between MHE&S and Nelson is that MHE&S uses Delrin
fittings instead of plated metal at the regulator.
Since we were testing to 24,000 feet, our system was equipped with
A4 dual-scale flowmeters. A3 flowmeters are for use only with
cannulas to 18,000 feet and are options.
Patrick McLauglin, President of MHE&S, told us that they have
designed new flowmeters that address the various failure modes of the
Nelson units and these are supposed to be available
this fall.
MHE&S supplied a Scott mask with electret microphone for use with
its conventional system but we found it all but useless and
uncomfortable. The head strap naturally falls over the ear, a
poor design that's annoying to wear. The mic made for unintelligible sound quality.
The EDS D1 system is a second-generation unit using a digital rather than analog
design and it's smaller and lighter than the original we tested a few years
ago. In brief, it provides oxygen on
demand at the beginning of each inhalation, as opposed to a constant flow of
oxygen in the conventional systems. By providing no more than is needed, oxygen
duration is claimed to be
extended as much as 30 to 60 percent over conserving cannulas.
The EDS D1 connects to the standard MHE&S regulator and runs for about 40 hours
on a 9-volt battery but the battery will deplete quickly if not removed when
the unit is idle. Alternatively,
aircraft power can be used through a surge-protected power supply that sells
for $195. Oxygen from the cylinder is supplied to the inlet and the delivery
device, a standard (not conserving)
cannula or mask, is attached to the outlet. Each person requires his own EDS
unit.
Automatic Oxygen
The unit's solid-state temperature and baro sensors allow it to calculate pressure
altitude to determine how much oxygen to supply. It senses the start of
inhalation and delivers a pulse of
oxygen, theoretically adequate for the pressure altitude.
There are four operational modes: The "N"
setting ("Night" or "Now") provides oxygen at
the rate of 1 LPM/10,000 feet; "D" ("Day" or
"Delayed") mode delivers oxygen upon
reaching set pressure altitudes of 5000 and
10,000 feet, or ensuring you're legal at
12,000 feet. The "F" settings (Floor or Face
Mask) increase oxygen delivery based on
increasing pressure altitude. Our experience
suggests that the F-5 or F-10 setting is
probably necessary to maintain oxygen
levels in the low to mid-90 percent range
using cannulas. Most users tell us they
simply set it on one of those two settings
and forget it, with confirmation via pulse
oximeters.
Worth noting is that pulmonary efficiency
declines as a function of numerous factors,
with age being the most significant.
Younger persons may find the normal N and D settings adequate but anyone with
compromised lungs may need to use higher settings.
Let's also note a few peculiarities: Some people breath shallow or more rapidly
than the unit is calibrated to sense and will thus require a higher stetting
to maintain oxygen levels. We also discovered that by consci
ously breathing deeply and exhaling completely, we were able to raise our oxygenation
levels by five percentage points easily, obviating the need for additional
oxygen flow. Revert to normal breathing and you lose that
advantage.
The final EDS mode, "R/M" (Reserve/Manual), provides a fixed 1/2- second pulse
regardless of altitude, the claimed equivalent of a 100 percent flow setting
for a conventional system but still
delivering significant conservation.
We were favorably impressed with the EDS unit. Once turned on, you can forget
about adjustments and the standard cannulas are more comfortable. At first,
the pulsing is somewhat disconcerting, not for the flow itself
but the hissing sound. But we adapted to this quickly and the lessened flow of
oxygen should ease dry nose or throat problems that trouble many oxygen
users.
Some nits: There's an audible and flashing LED alarm if the flow is stopped or
if you don't take a breath for 45 seconds. Nice idea but the LED is so small
as to be un-noticeable and the alarm
is easily missed with headsets on. A louder alarm would help.
Other than an oximeter, there's no way to know if the unit is functioning properly.
Last, there's no easy way to bypass the electronics, as the original analog
system had. Solution: Use a
pulse oximeter and carry a spare line and mask to plug directly into the regulator,
just in case.
Then there's the price. With cannula and mask but without cylinder and regulator,
each EDS unit sells for $650 each. While you can justify the expense in
oxygen saved and convenience for one person, it may not make se
nse to equip every seat unless each is filled with a passenger breathing oxygen.
Most MH systems-two thirds of which are bought with the pricey Kevlar-wound cylinders-come
with the Tuff-Pack case, a slimmed down mount and harness for the
cylinder, saving about half the weight of the Full-Pack case
The MHE&S "Full-Pack" has some nice features, but also some shortcomings. The
Cordura nylon exterior is tough, but the interior is fleeced lightweight foam,
no different than that of
Aerox. A pair of zippered pockets at the top provide storage of the harness and
odds and ends. A zippered nylon pouch with handles is provided for each set
of flowmeter or EDS unit and
cannula and mask, a nice feature. But there's no easy way to secure them to the
case for transport, leaving you with multiple bits to keep track of. The harness
installation instructions
were worse than useless, in our estimation. The illustrated installation was
for a Cessna-style seat, hardly universal, and if installed as suggested, prevents
the seat from folding forward,
blocking access to and egress from the rear seat. We never did find a way to
attach the case to the seat in a way that pleased us.
Nelson
Nelson originated the integrated flowmeter and valve concept, eventually supplying
flowmeters for other manufacturers. There are some known weak points in
this design. We've seen a
number of these with the inlet or outlet barbs broken off and with valve failures,
so it's a good idea to carry a spare.
Nelson's regulator is virtually identical to MHE&S, except for its plated brass
fittings. The cylinder pressure gauge has no markings, just numbers. Nelson
also offers its original Oxypack
style diaphragm regulator as an option ($50), which we tested last time around.
It's bulkier and heavier and less reliable, according to user reports so we
can't see a reason to choose it.
What sets Nelson apart from the rest is the case and mounting harness. Nelson's
"Oxypack" case is constructed of Cordura with resilient 1/4-inch close cell
foam padding and a sturdy nylon
interior lining. The foam is substantial enough to offer protection to the tank
and regulator-and passengers.
A zipper extends down one side and over the top and part way down the other side,
but there's a sewn-in stop to prevent the zipper from opening all the way
down the full side. A Velcro restraining strap fits around th
e tank neck, securing it in place.
A commodious zippered storage compartment is attached to the side of the case
and the nylon web handle is padded and quite comfortable.
The harness was straightforward to install and the instructions were clear. Once
installed, it isn't going anywhere and is easy on the upholstery. It was
easily the best secured of the bunch and
it requires only seconds to remove or replace the tank. All in all, a
superior design.
While Mountain High and Aerox offer limited lifetime warranties,
Nelson offers a two-year limited warranty. Sky Ox has but a one-year
warranty. Our experience, and that of users we've interviewed, is that
the systems are trouble-free for the most part and all the companies
have a reputation for good support.
However, Nelson, under the new ownership, confirms that there is
now a $20 replacement charge for out-of-warranty flowmeters. In days
of yore, Nelson almost always replaced these for
free.
Our Choices
When we were contacting the companies to arrange for evaluation
units, one purveyor gave us
an earful about our previous test, complaining that it seemed that we
had focused solely on the
case to determine the winner. While that wasn't the entire story, we
do think the cases are important.
All other things being substantially equal, the case can easily become
a deciding factor. To quote one volunteer struggling to mount one of
the cases, "you've got to wonder if the designers
ever actually use this stuff."
The overall winner in the conventional category is Nelson, even
though you'll pay a slight premium for the vastly superior case and
harness. We also suggest you carry a spare flowmeter with any
system using the Nelson flowmeters, since we've seen too many
failures. Too bad they no longer replace these for free, although
MHE&S does for its customers, eating the losses. we
commend them for great customer service.
Aerox charges a premium for its systems and the reliability
advantages of the brass needle valves may be worth it. (You don't
need to carry a spare, reducing the price differential.)
The lifetime warranty and the company's reputation are plusses. We
do think it's more practical to have the adjustment at the flowmeter
than at the regulator, so we'd choose Aerox's optional
integrated flowmeters, increasing the price slightly. The Aerox case
rates only a fair.
Mountain High's XCP system will save a few bucks and provide a
virtually identical oxygen system to the Nelson, but with an inferior
case. We like Mountain High's lifetime warranty and excellent
reputation for customer service and if they'd just improve that case,
they'd move to the top of the pack, no question.
Given the competition, we just can't get excited about the Sky Ox
systems. Any cost savings don't cover its inadequacies, in our
opinion, especially the case and adjustable regulator with its
inadequately marked gauge. The cost savings don't offset these
shortcomings, in our view.
For those who do a good deal of flying at altitudes where oxygen is
necessary, Mountain High's EDS system is the answer. If you're
paying FBO prices to fill your cylinder, the payback will
come quickly; less so if you decide to fill your own.
If weight isn't a concern, we'd skip the expensive Kevlar cylinder and
the skimpy Tuff-Pack case. In most cases, we think a sensible buy is a
one- or two-unit EDS system, with conventional flowmeters and
conserving cannulas and masks for occasional use by passengers.
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
----Original Message Follows----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Systems
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 20:00:08 EDT
I had planned on looking at and possibly purchasing an oxygen system at
Oshkosh this year, but low ceiling turned it into IFRventure for me, and I
couldn't make the trip.
That said, are there any qualitative differences between the various
commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web sites, I can't
really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox, Mountain
High,
and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best price for a two place
system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there any reason to stay away from
an Aerox system?
Thanks in advance.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
Kyle:
I have a 9 cubic foot tank / system from Aerox. It will be 5 years old this
year. The tank will need recertification later this year. All tanks
require DOT certification every 5 years. I have been told that scuba shops
are the best place to go to get them recertificate.
I do not go on a cross-counrty without it. 3 RV'er from Chino (CNO) each
purchased Aerox 13 cubic foot systems at AirVenture along with 1 RV'er from
Cable (CCB). They thought the Aerox system was the best value as I did
almost 5 years ago.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,160.1+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Installation |
----Original Message Follows----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Installation
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:42:12 EDT
In a message dated 8/3/2002 7:06:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Should the fittings be aluminum or steel?
Steel at the front and a special swivel brass fitting is what Lycoming uses
at the governor to get the clocking right.
Also, what size should the line
> be, 3/8?
Yes.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 560hrs)
The fitting at the governor is actually steel. Depending on if it is the
old style with pipe threads or the new style that uses the same straight
thread fitting as the fuel pump. My 1961 vintage narrow deck engine has the
old style with the pipe threads. Yes the engine has over 4,400 hours on it.
It was rebuilt to new specs with new Superior Cylinders before it went
into my RV.
I am using a 3/8" HIGH pressure (3,000 psi) teflon hose with stainless braid
that I had made at the local Aeroquep shop. I gave away the stainless tube
(with steel nuts) to a fellow RV builder.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,160.1+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
There are a lot of references to using computer fans for canopy defrost
in the archives - One had a reference to building instructions - using
computer fans and sofit vents, in the 1995 tri-state wing newsletter.
I'm at the stage of installing defrost in my RV6, and wondered if the
article is still available. Any help would be appreciated. Best regards,
Peter
Peter Blake
RV6 tilt-up
N899PB reserved
Canopy
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
Kyle,
I built my RV-6A with the primary purpose of extended IFR cross-country flight.
Toward this end, I installed a built-in oxygen system from Mountain High
(obviating any concern about carrying cases). I have two EDS units, two
cannulas, two masks (which I've never used), a pressure gauge in the instrument
panel right in front of me, and a tank that provides 48 manhours of oxygen at
15000 feet. I use a pulse oximeter from FlightStat. My EDS units are powered
by
the aircraft electrical system and are also equipped with standby batteries.
Contrary to the report in The Aviation Consumer, the warning signals activated
by
power loss or perceived apnea are very clear and very obvious, at least to me.
I'm 70 years old now, and find that, without oxygen, my blood oxygen level is
typically in the mid-to-high 80s at 11,000 feet; using the D10 setting on my EDS
yields blood oxygen levels in the low-to-mid 90s, typically around 93. With
higher settings or deliberate deep breathing, it increases, as explained in the
article kindly provided by Tim Lewis. I always use oxygen above 10,000 feet, and
often at 10,000. I suspect the wisdom of this policy depends on one's age and
personal history.
The Mountain High system's seem costly, but its components are of very high
quality. If one flies a lot at high altitudes as I do, one would be well served
by the Mountain High EDS system and I would recommend it highly, but be advised
that I know virtually nothing about other systems. I hasten to add, however,
that I can't imagine an aviation oxygen system that doesn't work well; after all,
how long could the manufacturer survive?
Good luck and best wishes,
Jack Abell
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I had planned on looking at and possibly purchasing an oxygen system at
> Oshkosh this year, but low ceiling turned it into IFRventure for me, and I
> couldn't make the trip.
>
> That said, are there any qualitative differences between the various
> commercially available oxygen systems? From catalogs and web sites, I can't
> really tell much. The brands I'm looking at are Aerox, Skyox, Mountain High,
> and possibly Nelson. Aerox seems to offer the best price for a two place
> system with a 13-15 cubic foot tank. Is there any reason to stay away from
> an Aerox system?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Installation |
For those of you who used stainless braided hose for this instead of the
stainless tubing, did you have any problems installing the hose and fitting
up through the baffling at the front of the engine? Or did you run the line
through the rear baffle along the top of the engine? Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 Kenosha, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Installation
----Original Message Follows----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Installation
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:42:12 EDT
In a message dated 8/3/2002 7:06:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Should the fittings be aluminum or steel?
Steel at the front and a special swivel brass fitting is what Lycoming uses
at the governor to get the clocking right.
Also, what size should the line
> be, 3/8?
Yes.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 560hrs)
The fitting at the governor is actually steel. Depending on if it is the
old style with pipe threads or the new style that uses the same straight
thread fitting as the fuel pump. My 1961 vintage narrow deck engine has the
old style with the pipe threads. Yes the engine has over 4,400 hours on it.
It was rebuilt to new specs with new Superior Cylinders before it went
into my RV.
I am using a 3/8" HIGH pressure (3,000 psi) teflon hose with stainless braid
that I had made at the local Aeroquep shop. I gave away the stainless tube
(with steel nuts) to a fellow RV builder.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,160.1+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Installation |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "MSices" <msices(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Constant Speed Installation
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 14:16:59 -0500
For those of you who used stainless braided hose for this instead of the
stainless tubing, did you have any problems installing the hose and fitting
up through the baffling at the front of the engine? Or did you run the line
through the rear baffle along the top of the engine? Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 Kenosha, WI
Mike:
My stainless braided hose runs the same route as the stainless tube would
run. From the reseach I did (6 years ago), Lycoming uses a Stainless
Braided hose on the AEIO engine along the same routing as the Stainless
Tube.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,160.1+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
I also have the Aerox system and I have been very satisfied with it for over
ten years. You can also get the tanks recertified at Fire Extinguisher
refill/repair facilities.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Hayward, Ca
> Kyle:
>
> I have a 9 cubic foot tank / system from Aerox. It will be 5 years old
> this
> year. The tank will need recertification later this year. All tanks
> require DOT certification every 5 years. I have been told that scuba shops
>
> are the best place to go to get them recertificate.
>
July 26, 2002 - August 04, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ne