RV-Archive.digest.vol-nm
September 12, 2002 - September 24, 2002
pressures in the cowl below the engine (Pb). This manometer has a bit
of water in it, so pressures are measured in terms of inches of water.
The manometer can measure pressure differential top to bottom, or either
top or bottom as compared to cabin static pressure. I chose this route
because evaluating changes made to the cooling system by looking at
CHT's is really mostly indeterminate, unless one hits a home run. I'm
skeptical of the various "Yeah, I lowered CHT's by 10 degrees F with
that change" statements I've heard, as I can't imagine the amount of
testing needed to confirm those small changes, given all the variables.
BTW, CHT's on my plane run around 390 - 410 at cruise settings in the
summer, oil OK.
I measured these pressures at various airspeeds, but for now, the
important number is that at 142KIAS, Pt was 11.75" H20, while Pb was
4.5" H2O. Perfect pressure recovery for the top would be (thanks, Kevin
H.) about 13.3", so recovery on top is pretty good. However, the 4.5"
on the bottom bugs me a lot. This is 1/6 psi!! (A recent post mentioned
the oil door bulging.) The differential pressure top/bottom is 7.25", so
if I can grab even 2 more inches from the bottom pressure I'll increase
cooling potential by about 30%!
I've already concluded that measuring pressures is the only reasonable
way to evaluate changes.
I have taken the opportunity during annual inspection to make a number
of modifications to the cooling exit region. Let me list them: 1. Cut
1.25" off the exit, 2. removed the vertical blade support (and the
terrible 3/4" angle on its top), 3. moved the breather line to the side,
4. built a fairing like the -8's have curling around the motor mount to
the belly, 5. built a fairing around the nosegear socket to streamline
that horribly draggy round section, 6. moved the fuel pump dump to the
side.
I hope to be back flying next week, and I'll post to the list the
results.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
"RV-List" , ,
,
"Rick-RV-4-Aero/formation ASEW/E32/AC1" <39asew.e32.ac1(at)incirlik.af.mil>,
"Pat Perry RV-4 +" ,
"Dog Fighter-Terry Burch" ,
"Alex Peterson" ,
| Subject: | Inverted Valve for Brake Fluid Reservoir... A.K.A. "The Reservoir |
Dog"
Hi Guys & Gals,
I hope I ain't bothering you, but Alex Peterson (one of our own
aerobatic RV pilots) just perfected his latest/greatest invention... "The
Reservoir Dog". This little valve keeps the brake fluid in the reservoir
while we are sloshing around, rolling upside down, tossing our tail
feathers, etc...
If you are interested (and who doesn't want to keep that caustic pink
fluid from dripping all over & ruining the valuables inside and outside our
engine compartments?, not to mention what it will do to our beautiful paint)
just email Alex at alexpeterson(at)usjet.net and he will zip one of these
puppies right to you! Believe me you will love 'em, I know I do.
Chuck
legal disclaimer: I have not, nor will not, receive any compensation for
endorsing this item... I just tried one, think it's great!!! and would like
to see a good product, new entrepreneur succeed!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets |
Tracy Saylor also opened up the cowl exit some and has an exit fairing
at the bottom of the firewall. He said that he tried an adjustable cowl
flap which didn't help so he removed it and the extra exit area helped
with cooling and didn't hurt speed. The cowl is a van's pre S type
modified by Tracy. Inlet rings by Dave Anders.
Ed Holyoke
6 qb
Well, if I understand correctly, Sam James copied the work that Steve
Barnard had done on his RV-6, which was fairly fast as I recall.
Tracy Saylor reported a 14 mph speed increase by installing a round
hole cowl with plenum + a second electronic ignition (not sure
whether this was a Barnard cowl, a Sam James cowl, or a Tracy Saylor
cowl).
So, I think there is hope of a speed increase. The smaller an inlet
area you can get away with, the faster you should go. The plenum
helps make the most efficient use of the air that comes in, so it
lets you go with a smaller inlet area. In theory, the round hole is
better than the rounded rectangle that Van uses, as the circle as the
largest ratio of area to circumference. The air that is coming in at
the circumference is slowed down by friction, so the less
circumference you have for a given size area the better.
So, try to use as small an inlet diameter as you can and still have
adequate cooling.
Good luck - keep us posted.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling - a little long and geeky |
I was wondering about using your gauge, did you drill holes in the firewall
in order to run the lines or are they run thru the cabin heat?
Talk about sharp bends, how about where all the cooling air passes thru
that baffle slot in the bottom of the cylinder head? Have you looked into
exhaust augmentation? Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick Grips |
Hello Yall
I have two Infinity grips in the 8. My copilot said that if there is a fancy
grip up front there better be one in the back, or else. YES M'AM
(I do have a copilot cutout switch for all rear grip flight functions)
As Bob McC states there is definitely a better way to wire the relays and
never have a short. Any number of switches could be used to activate
the two relays. If more than one relay is activated at the same time the
flap
motor will just stop.
The activation part of the relay can be left the same. The change would only
be done to the switch section of the relay.
Only one leg of each double leg relay ( relay pictured on Paul's site ) is
used
or a single leg relay could be substituted. Of the three terminals the
common
goes to one flap wire, the normally closed goes to ground and the normally
open goes to fused power. The same is done for the second relay to the other
flap wire.
I believe someone had this diagram on their web site.
George Meketa, RV8 N444TX
> Here's the schmatic for the one I did. It is for one switch, using two
> relays. If you want to use two grips, then you essentially double this
> schematic. The only fault with this one is that if both switches on both
> grips are pressed at the same time, it trips the breaker. Not a big deal,
> because it never happened, and very rarely did the passenger actually have
> the grip while in the pattern. Worked great, and still does.
>
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/flap.htm
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | W-606A Spar web to Rib fit |
Folks
About 6 weeks ago I mailed the list that my wing inboard ribs did not
fit the spar web very well. I have now rivetted up both main spars (but
not attached ribs), and believe that I have found the cause of my
probelem.
The spar web W-606A depth between the flange inside faces should be
7.73inches (based on a CAD check). At the outbd end the webs are within
0.030" of this dimension, often slightly under, making for snug rib
fit. But at the inbd end the spar web dimension increases to 7.8 inches
maximum. There is a small variation in the ribs dimension between the
upper and lower joggles. This dimension is typically 7.67". So I get up
to 0.13" gap between some ribs and the spar web flange. Over the inbd 5
ribs some of this is taken up by the wing walk doubler, but it is not
always sufficient to close the gap. When I use the "false skin" method
with these ribs to locate the ribs I dont get good alignment of the rib
flange and web flange.
I clamped long steel stiff 2" by 2" RHS members to the web flanges and
found that the upper flange is close enough to straight, but not the
lower flange.
I wondered whether the spar straps were binding against the web flanges
and forcing them to more than 90 degrees, but that does not appear to be
the case. The lower straps are a lot closer to the web flanges, but I
can get feeler gauges all the way down to the web.
My guess is that the problem is a manufacturing tolerances of the spar
webs.
I would be grateful if listers could check the spar web flange to flange
inside dimension, preferably on an unassembled wing.
Is anybody willing to admit having observed this problem???
I suspect that I shall align the ribs (plus wing walk) with web the
upper flange, and endeavour to pull the liwer flange into alignment with
the rib.
LH wing is much worse than the RH, and problem exists from about WS 53.5
inboard.
thanks in anticipation.
Graham Murphy
RV-6A wing
Blenheim
New Zealand
PS: Percussion (Gun) rivetting the 3/16" rivets works great, providing u
have a grunty enough gun. We used a 6X at the inbd end and a 4X over
the outer half. Used a round bucking bar about 1.5" dia and 8" long.
the mass is dead in line with the rivet which is ideal. Also drilling
out goofed rivets was no great drama if you are VERY careful.
The res
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter H. Blake" <pblake(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | re: Infinity grips |
Has anyone tried the flap control circuit board in Van's accessory catalog?
This is supposed to interface a small grip-mounted switch to the flap motor.
Peter Blake
RV6, Canopy
60 Beverly Drive
Kintnersville, PA 18930
Office: (610) 847-8478
Fax: (610) 847-8160
e-Mail: pblake(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: Infinity grips |
Works great on mine !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Inpection Date Set !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
Can anyone recommend a supplier for a good wire stripper for 22 and 26 gauge wire?
I can't seem to find one locally. I looked in Digikey's catalog, but couldn't
find one there either.
Thanks!
Fabian Lefler
RV-9A (90292)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | W-606A Spar web to Rib fit |
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
Graham -- I'm not at my project location at the moment, so I can't
provide the measurements you have requested, but I can do that later
today, and send them to you this evening. However, I'm guessing that
when I do measure them that I have a similar discrepancy one way or the
other -- in other words, I think that the variation that you have noted
is likely well within manufacturing tolerances for this part. It will
be interesting to see what others think -- perhaps my standards aren't
high enough?
However, I'm wondering whether your intended resolution is really the
way you want to go. Wouldn't it be better to split the .13 gap between
the upper and lower surfaces, so that they're both .065? In my case, I
used the false skin method, remembering to insert a shim the same
thickness as the wing walk for those ribs where it applies. I believe
that this approach will automatically divide any discrepancy between the
two surfaces, and in the case of my left wing, which is now finished,
I'm very happy with the finished product. If there was a discrepancy as
you describe, it would be very hard to tell.
Just my thoughts, worth what you paid for them...best regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings, Fuselage Ordered"
-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Murphy [mailto:jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz]
Subject: RV-List: W-606A Spar web to Rib fit
The spar web W-606A depth between the flange inside faces should be
7.73inches (based on a CAD check). At the outbd end the webs are within
0.030" of this dimension, often slightly under, making for snug rib fit.
But at the inbd end the spar web dimension increases to 7.8 inches
maximum. There is a small variation in the ribs dimension between the
upper and lower joggles. This dimension is typically 7.67". So I get up
to 0.13" gap between some ribs and the spar web flange. Over the inbd 5
ribs some of this is taken up by the wing walk doubler, but it is not
always sufficient to close the gap. When I use the "false skin" method
with these ribs to locate the ribs I dont get good alignment of the rib
flange and web flange.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets |
Randy:
Van's plans for installing the engine shock mounts are correct, including the
location of the hard and soft biscuits. I suspect the reason you did not get
the sag is that you did it correctly. The difference is subtle and I have seen
a number of airplanes (not RVs) coming out of engine changes by certified shops
with reversed mounts. Unfortunately, these parts are not "idiot proofed" and
will fit perfectly with the wrong positioning.
Bill
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Good point Bill. I followed Van's diagram on this EXACTLY however.
>
> Randy
>
> >
> >
> > Is everyone aware that the shock mounts for dynafocal mount Lycs have one
> rubber
> > biscuit that is harder than the other at all four positions? You have to
> > install them so that the weight of the engine when sitting on the ground
> rests
> > on the hard biscuit. This means that for the top mounts, the hard biscuit
> has
> > to be on the aft side of the engine mount and on the bottom mounts the
> hard ones
> > have to be on the forward side of the mount.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
Avery's sells a really nice wire stripper (others have it as well but Avery's
is the best price I've seen so far. Got mine from Cleavland Tools). Its great
because it is for all wire gauges. Instead of cut out circles for stripping the
wire it has teeth that yank the wire sleeve off without touching the actual
wire. Works great and I highly recommend it.
Check out this website:
http://www.averytools.com/shopping.cfm
The strippers are at the bottom. A bit hard to see.
Here is a better pictures from Cleaveland Tools:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/WEBws39.JPG
Steve
RV7A
misc fuse stuff
Quoting FABIAN LEFLER :
>
> Can anyone recommend a supplier for a good wire stripper for 22 and 26 gauge
> wire? I can't seem to find one locally. I looked in Digikey's catalog, but
> couldn't find one there either.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Fabian Lefler
> RV-9A (90292)
> Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray Can Primer |
I'm not trying to start a primer war, but when I was looking into primers,
I found that the majority of the non-epoxy primers were not designed
to be the 'top coat' as they don't provide a vapor barrier. They are intended
to be primer sealed or topcoated. So for the best corrosion protection,
if you want to leave the primer as the final coat, as typical on the inside,
the epoxy seemed like the way to go.
Phil
8A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray Can Primer |
Phil,
We used the Sherwin Williams (905 or 908 - I believe). We also shot the
cockpit in SunFire (very durable). We thought about the issues you raised
and while a two part epoxy and alodine would be much better - it requires a
significant amount of additional labor + cost.
We choose to use the SW and follow-up annually with a CrossionX spray.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (120 hrs)
>From: "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe(at)ford.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Spray Can Primer
>Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 11:42:06 -0400
>
>
>I'm not trying to start a primer war, but when I was looking into primers,
>I found that the majority of the non-epoxy primers were not designed
>to be the 'top coat' as they don't provide a vapor barrier. They are
>intended
>to be primer sealed or topcoated. So for the best corrosion protection,
>if you want to leave the primer as the final coat, as typical on the
>inside,
>the epoxy seemed like the way to go.
>
>Phil
>8A emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Cooling - a little long and geeky |
Kevin, thanks for the interest. I ran some -3 aluminum through one of
my electrical pass throughs already in the firewall. Interesting you
should mention cabin heat - I thought about running them there first.
The slots under the cylinders are typical for RV's, about 2" under the
barrel and 2.75 or so under the head. I'm expecting info from Lycoming
soon, which may talk about those gaps. Exhaust augmentation bothers me a
little - I don't like hot exhaust coming out ahead of the fiberglass.
Alex
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 3 rotor
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 11:57 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cooling - a little long and geeky
>
>
>
> I was wondering about using your gauge, did you drill holes
> in the firewall in order to run the lines or are they run
> thru the cabin heat?
> Talk about sharp bends, how about where all the cooling
> air passes thru that baffle slot in the bottom of the
> cylinder head? Have you looked into
> exhaust augmentation? Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
I've seen this same wire stripper at Harbor Freight for way cheaper...
This one is the same as the Cleaveland automatic wire stripper, but it's
only $9.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36810
And this one is only $5.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42101
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire Stripper
>
> Avery's sells a really nice wire stripper (others have it as well but
Avery's
> is the best price I've seen so far. Got mine from Cleavland Tools). Its
great
> because it is for all wire gauges. Instead of cut out circles for
stripping the
> wire it has teeth that yank the wire sleeve off without touching the
actual
> wire. Works great and I highly recommend it.
>
> Check out this website:
> http://www.averytools.com/shopping.cfm
>
> The strippers are at the bottom. A bit hard to see.
>
> Here is a better pictures from Cleaveland Tools:
> http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/WEBws39.JPG
>
> Steve
> RV7A
> misc fuse stuff
>
> Quoting FABIAN LEFLER :
>
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a supplier for a good wire stripper for 22 and 26
gauge
> > wire? I can't seem to find one locally. I looked in Digikey's catalog,
but
> > couldn't find one there either.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Fabian Lefler
> > RV-9A (90292)
> > Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | .090 tip up panel |
For those who made your tip up panels out of .090 instead of .063, did you
put the .063 angle along the top edge, or is the .090 stiff enough without
it? Also, did you put any angle along the bottom edge (to replace the bent
edge of the stock panel) or was the panel stiff enough without that as well?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: .090 tip up panel |
Jeff,
I am just finishing up my panel (RV6-A tip-up) with the .090. I did not put
the angle along the top edge. I did, however, install a brace in back of my
control knobs (throttle, prop and mixture). This attaches to the brace that
supports the middle of the rudder peddles that is attached to the firewall.
The bottom is quite stiff. My panel has two instrument stacks. One is
slightly left of center and the second is 1.5 inches to the right of the
first, just to the left of the right rib that runs between the subpanel and
instrument panel. These two stacks are connected to the panel via ,063
angle that runs from the bottom to the top of the panel. These four pieces
of angle provide enough stiffness to the top of the panel.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
RV6A
>
> For those who made your tip up panels out of .090 instead of .063, did you
> put the .063 angle along the top edge, or is the .090 stiff enough without
> it? Also, did you put any angle along the bottom edge (to replace the
bent
> edge of the stock panel) or was the panel stiff enough without that as
well?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 finish kit
> Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Hartzell recommendations regarding Lightspeed Electonic Ignition |
I emailed Brad at Hartzell with questions regarding safe operation of a
Hartzell C/S prop on an engine with Lightspeed EI. His response is copied
below.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 78 hours
Hi Ken,
Attached is a document which will help to clarify our position on operating
your Hartzell Propeller with the lightspeed ignition system. I hope this
helps you determine how you want to operate your aircraft.
Best Regards,
Brad Huelsman
The Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2 has been vibrationally
approved per FAR23.907 on the standard production Lycoming Engine Model
O-360-A1A, and similar models, rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM with a
restriction to avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM. The
propeller vibration characteristics and stress amplitudes on a reciprocating
engine installation are primarily mechanically generated by the engine. Any
modification to the standard engine configuration to include high
compression pistons, electronic ignition, FADEC, tuned induction and
exhaust, and turbocharging or turbonormalizing have the potential to
adversely effect the propeller vibration characteristics and stress
amplitudes. Hartzell Propeller, therefore, does not endorse any such engine
modification unless the specific engine and propeller configurations have
been tested and found to be acceptable vibrationwise.
The Lightspeed electronic ignition is not certified for use on any aircraft
engines so its use is limited to the experimental/amateur built market.
Hartzell recently conducted a test with the propeller model
HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2 installed on a standard Lycoming O-360-A1A engine,
except for a modification to equip it with the Lightspeed ignition in place
of one magneto. The results of this test show an increase in the propeller
vibratory stress amplitudes within the 2000-2250 RPM range currently covered
by the operating restriction noted in the first paragraph, and additionally
above 2600 RPM with high power settings. Based on this data, continued safe
use of this propeller on O-360-A1A and similar engines equipped with
Lightspeed electronic ignition would require the following:
1. Continuation of the current restriction to avoid continuous
operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM.
2. An additional restriction to limit operations above 2600 RPM to
takeoff. As soon as practical after takeoff the RPM should be reduced to
2600 or below.
3. The propeller blades are life limited to 20,000 hours of operation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray Can Primer |
Just bought my last can of MarHyde & totaled it all up- about $450 for mostly
rattle cans and about 5 quart cans. Expensive? Maybe so, but there's a lot of
value in the convenience, plus there was no etching/alodine time&material... I
know there is cheaper stuff available, but I started with the MarHyde and
decided to stick with it after becoming more "educated". Still, very pleased
with the results- very easy to use, no clogged cans or wasted material, looks
great and seems mighty tough so far...
FWIW from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - 6A, canopy nearing completion!
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> I'm curious how much people out there spend on spray cans throughout the
> entire kit. I imagine it's something like $250 or more. Just curious.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
On Friday, September 13, 2002, at 07:13 AM, FABIAN LEFLER wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend a supplier for a good wire stripper for 22 and 26
> gauge wire? I can't seem to find one locally. I looked in Digikey's
> catalog, but couldn't find one there either.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Fabian Lefler
> RV-9A (90292)
> Fuselage
A Bob Nuckolls article on wire strippers:
<http://216.55.140.222/articles/strippers/strippers.html>
Too pricey for just stripping wire? That's your call, but if you
decide its worth it, several supply chains carry these, including
Newark
<http://www.newark.com/find/
searchResults.jsp?action=0&First=0&QText=58f551>
Allied <http://www.alliedelec.com> and search for manf. part 45-187
Techni-Tool, and others.
I bought a set at work since we deal with Teflon insulated wire on a
daily basis and it is sometimes a hassle to fire up the thermal
strippers or be chained to the wall outlet. If you want thermal
strippers, keep an eye on eBay for a Meisei M-10 power supply/4B
tweezer combination. I found a set for $45 + $10 shipping (from
Australia!) to give you an idea on pricing.
<http://www.series4.co.uk/prodeqpt/section01/ds5.htm>
Jim Daniels
Albuquerque, NM
8 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray Can Primer |
Mark - I couldn't help but notice your "PossumWorks" in TN comment - you don't
by
chance live in Lebanon do you?
OBTW, I have used MarHyde for all of my priming as well, and have been more than
pleased...
Scott
RV-8A
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Just bought my last can of MarHyde & totaled it all up- about $450 for mostly
> rattle cans and about 5 quart cans. Expensive? Maybe so, but there's a lot
of
> value in the convenience, plus there was no etching/alodine time&material...
I
> know there is cheaper stuff available, but I started with the MarHyde and
> decided to stick with it after becoming more "educated". Still, very pleased
> with the results- very easy to use, no clogged cans or wasted material, looks
> great and seems mighty tough so far...
>
> FWIW from The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - 6A, canopy nearing completion!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: .090 tip up panel |
I didn't put any angle on it. I did put a brace on the bottom that is
riveted on the sub panel for added stability of the panel when operating the
throttle control and such. The .090 was plenty stiff enough for everything
else, though.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: .090 tip up panel
>
> For those who made your tip up panels out of .090 instead of .063, did you
> put the .063 angle along the top edge, or is the .090 stiff enough without
> it? Also, did you put any angle along the bottom edge (to replace the
bent
> edge of the stock panel) or was the panel stiff enough without that as
well?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 finish kit
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davin Helminen <dhelminen(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Partial RV-6 For Sale |
Hi:
For anyone interested, I have a partially completed empenage kit and wing kit along
with a set of instructional videos on sale on Ebay. Please take a look:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1858669953&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:MT:1
Thanks,
Davin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
In a message dated 9/13/2002 6:15:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
FLEFLER(at)broward.org writes:
> Can anyone recommend a supplier for a good wire stripper for 22 and 26 gauge
> wire? I can't seem to find one locally. I looked in Digikey's catalog, but
> couldn't find one there either.
There are the cheapies that look like a small scissors and have multiple
notches for different gauges. These are available at Chicken Shack and other
low end electronics or hardware stores but some are hard to use with anything
other than PVC insulated wire, as the notches can be cut rather crudely.
Look for notches that as precision cut semicircles as possible.
Then there are the thermal types that use electricity to heat two opposing
blades to melt the insulation as you twist. These are good in production as
they don't nick strands and will work for a wide range of AWG sizes. They
are costly at over $125 and are available at Industrial suppliers.
Finally there are the spring loaded die types that you squeeze like a
crimper, have 6 or so discrete gauge sizes and the insulation slug just
slides off the end of the wire. These are made by Ideal. They are rather
costly at $100 at good electronics stores.
I use the latter kind but I got mine over 30 yrs ago.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 566hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain update (Efis lt) |
I finally received my (one of a kind) Efis light. Greg split the case and display
so I might customize the installation (smaller panel footprint). I have modified
Greg's bezel, constructed an enclosure(smaller than Blue Mountains) and
am installing this weekend. The unit looks terrific and the quality is excellent.
I would plan a larger space, in the top middle of your panel for the light
if you are thinking about it. Just a quarter of an inch horizontal and about
1/2 " vertical (more than typical space for the stock AG). I will post some
early install pictures and notify list this weekend. Looks good, finally.
Greg advised me last week that all units are shipping with a GPS antenna receiver
and an easy upgrade to moving terrain for about $300.00. This unit just keeps
getting more valuable!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
Its Garage Cleaning Time:
Have the following misc. items for sale for those that are interested:
1. Orndorf Firewall Insulation Template Kit: $5 (list $10)
2. Vans Carb Heat Muff: $15 (Never Used in Original Package List $22.50)
3. Rudder Cable Alum Fairings (2): $5
4. UMA Instrument Light Bezel (Green/ 2 cutout): $25 (list $42)
5. UMA Instrument Light Bezel (Green/ 3 in Cutout): $25 (list $42)
6. 2" "Y" Tube (Vans part number VENT DL-Y) : $5 (two #30 mounting holes
drilled in top)
7. Starter Solenoid (Vans Part number ES 24021): $10 (new in box list
$15.92)
8. Astrotech Digital Chronometer (new in wrapping): $50 (list from Chief
$113.95)
9. PAI-700 Compass Mount (PACMO-U) (Center Support Mount): $10 (List
$22.95 from Chief)
10. Fuel Test Cup (Clear Plexi) Chief Part # FTC391D, with holder: $4
________________________________________________________________________________
Another one leaves the nest: RV4-8, N20RG #897. A bit over three years
incubation.
She flew like a dream, no problems, no surprises -- except for the take off
performance that I found truly exciting -- and the best landing to date. -8
because it has an RV-8 empanage, are there any others out there? The engine
is an O-360 with an AFP fuel injector, Hartzel C/S prop, an IK2000 engine
monitor, MicroAir transceiver and transponder, GPS and other neat stuff that
seriously challenged the limited cockpit and panel spaces.
Many thanks to all of you who shared knowledge, wisdom and inspitration over
this list and at various flying events. No doubt about it, these RVs are
truly magnificent machines!
Ray Grenier, Nashua NH
RV4 flying!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan&Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | Ballast for test flights |
I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
ballast would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
Dan Krueger
RV-6A - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice on nosewheel shimmy needed on few hundred hour RV6A |
Scott, I have noticed that if you don't keep the bolt at the top of the nose
gear leg tight and there is any play at all that allows the gear leg to
rotate slightly that this will make your nose wheel prone to shimmy.
Keep this bolt tight enough to squeeze the gear leg in place a little. You
will need to jack the nose up (or tie the tail down, raising the nose wheel)
and unload the weight on the nose gear to determine if this is a
contributor.
Rgds
Tom Olson
RV6A 550 Hours.
-----------
> Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> >
> > I have an RV6A with a few hundred hours.
> >
> > When it was new, I needed to tighten the front nosewheel nut after a few
> > hours and then there was no shimmy when applying brakes to stop at about
> > 30mph.
> >
> > Everything looks good and tight, but the shimmy has returned and the nut
> > cannot be tightened anymore.
> >
> > Please note the plane has the wood dampening rods on the landing gear
> > and I am running about 37 pounds of air in all my tires.
> >
> > Does anybody have any recommendations.
> >
> > (Is is possible to cause a shimmy if the nut is to tight ?)
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Scott / Chicago
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Ballast for test flights |
How about 2 average RV-4 pilots :-)
----- Original Message -----
>
> I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
> need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
> ballast would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Dan Krueger
> RV-6A - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
A Big CONGRATULATIONS Ray!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRENIER(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: First flight
>
> Another one leaves the nest: RV4-8, N20RG #897. A bit over three years
> incubation.
> She flew like a dream, no problems, no surprises -- except for the take
off
> performance that I found truly exciting -- and the best landing to
date. -8
> because it has an RV-8 empanage, are there any others out there? The
engine
> is an O-360 with an AFP fuel injector, Hartzel C/S prop, an IK2000 engine
> monitor, MicroAir transceiver and transponder, GPS and other neat stuff
that
> seriously challenged the limited cockpit and panel spaces.
>
> Many thanks to all of you who shared knowledge, wisdom and inspitration
over
> this list and at various flying events. No doubt about it, these RVs are
> truly magnificent machines!
>
> Ray Grenier, Nashua NH
> RV4 flying!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, September 13, 2002, at 07:27 PM, Dan&Patty Krueger wrote:
> I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
> need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
> ballast would be greatly appreciated.
For the AirCam, we used 25# sacks of "play sand" from Home Depot. This
was a good balance between easy to handle and dense enough. The sacks
do tend to dribble a little sand, so we wrapped them in trash bags.
they are cheap, and you can fill in low spots in your lawn when you're
done.
If you have a large dog, 50# sacks of dog food can be strapped in the
seat belts.
Many people use 25# bags of lead shot, but having these in the back of
the airplane during testing makes me a little nervous in case of a
"Class A" incident where they might become a projectile.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Ballast for test flights |
>> I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights.
I'll
>> need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
>> ballast would be greatly appreciated.
>For the AirCam, we used 25# sacks of "play sand" from Home Depot.
I agree. That's what I used, wrapped in garbage bags. Do NOT use sacks
of concrete. You don't want that flying around in the cockpit if things
don't work right.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Wings... |
You can do an excellent job setting up one wing at a time. Here is how you
do it.
Get a string line and mark a line on your shop floor about two feet longer
than the length of your fuselage. Then mark a perpendicular line from the
string line. This line could be anywhere along the string line but
somewhere about where your wing will be would be easier to work with. I did
another perpendicular line near the other end cause I had to turn my fuse
around to attach the other wing at a later time. Now you are set to set the
squareness of your wing to the fuselage.
In case you need help making the perpendicular line(s), you can make the
perpendicular line by using a large protractor (I used a stick with a sharp
screw in one end and a pen on the other end) For example, you could use a
3' long protractor ( it must be longer than distance from center line) and
measure exactly 2' on both side of the place where you want your
perpendicular line to start from. Where the two arcs cross, extend another
string line, which is the perpendicular line, out to about where your wing
tip extends. That line will be perpendicular to the first line. You can
check this accurately by using the 3-4-5 rule. Measure 3' from the start
of the perpendicular line along the original string line. Then measure 4'
up the perpendicular line and mark that sport. The distance from the 3'
mark of the string line mark and the 4' perpendicular line mark will be
exactly 5' if your lines are perpendicular.
Once you have the perpendicular line, you can drop your plumb lines off the
leading edge after centering the fuselage on the original string line.
Measure the distance from LE to perpendicular line and adjust the wing until
equal lengths from line. You need to keep checking the fuselage being
centered on the fuse string line too. It is just as important as the wing
line.
Hope this helps and is not too confusing.
Indiana Larry, working on fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Build your own prop and a glass instrument panel |
Neat ideas from Al Wick, our speaker @ EAA CH. 902's meeting in Mulino, OR
last Wednesday (note cheap plug for the chapter).
His expertise is in failure analysis, so he applied his thinking to his (I
hate to use this word) Cozy. So he has a pressure sensor in his fuel
tanks. If a cap gets left off a tank it could go empty in about 5 minutes,
so he has a low tank pressure warning. He has a "gear not down"
warning. Warnings are displayed not only on his instrument panel, but he
gets an audio warning in his headset, saying "gear not down" so he can't
miss the warning. How many pilots have run out of fuel in spite of having
a gage? So he also has a low fuel warning. Says he has about 20 sensors
warning of various things. All coming thru his glass panel & his headset.
He also built his own glass instrument panel using a laptop computer he
bought off eBay for $100. And his own prop.
Check out his web page: http://members.aol.com/alwick/
Dick Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
80 lb bags of salt, the type used for water softners. Get em at any
hardware store.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Ballast for test flights
>
> How about 2 average RV-4 pilots :-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> >
> > I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
> > need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
> > ballast would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thank you in advance,
> > Dan Krueger
> > RV-6A - Flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Reno news needed |
Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
I just saw a posting on RAH that I need to verify & I can't find anything about
today's events.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
I used 60# sacks of pea gravel from Home Depot, about 4 bucks apiece. You
can of course divide it up as required. Diana had use for them in the
landscaping when I was done.
Mike
>
>I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
>need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
>ballast would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thank you in advance,
>Dan Krueger
>RV-6A - Flying
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Back Firing at Idle |
> My engine sounds like it's back firing occasionally at idle.
> It's not a
> loud BANG, but a muffled poof. I have an Airflow Performance fuel
> injection system on a new (formally) O-360-A1A. I adjusted the idle
> mixture a while back when I felt it was running rich - it was idling
> erratically when hot. Anybody have any idea what may be causing this?
I'm poster boy for this symptom. I have this problem anytime during
ground operations after flight when the temp is above about 60F. In my
case, boost pump doesn't make any difference, so I believe the problems
start at the fuel servo. The basic problem is fuel percolating
(boiling) post servo. The only way to clear it is to run it up a
little, to supply cooler fuel to the stuff downstream of the servo.
There is a catch 22 here - if one leans for ground operations, the dwell
time of the fuel is longer, and more likely to boil. If ground ops are
with mixture rich, well, it runs rich and loads up. The only cure I
believe is to cool down the fuel. Besides the cooling mods I've already
described recently, I'm putting a radiation heat shield on the servo.
The servo is BLACK, and has exhaust pipes around three sides of it, and
is very hot after shutdown. I'll keep the list posted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
For a good deal on fancy 5 point seat belts without huge "Simpson" advertizing,
check out
http://racequip.com/ushop/index.cgi?IDME4PSN&taskshow&catHARNESSES
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | First Flight! (Long) |
After six-and-a-half years of winter-time building, two moves, one-and-a-half years
in storage,about fifty-thousand Canadian dollars( about 450USD), and several
final hours spent working up normal and emergency checklists and practicing
a bailout routine-I made the canopy jettisonable:
I am both pleased( strike that, Moneypenny; make that thrilled) as well as disappointed
to announce that RV-6 #24613 has left the nest as of 16Aug02.
Into a light wind, the Imitutor surged down the runway and leapt into the clear,
evening sky, giving real meaning to the word airBORNE for me. For fourty minutes,
while being put through the manoeuvres recommended in "Flight Testing Homebuilt
Aircraft", we scribed gentle circles over the tidal flats downwind of
the into-wind runway as I became acquainted with the vibration and control feel
during clean and partial-flap turns and stalls. A pratice go-around was followed
by a surprisingly gentle touchdown and straighforward rollout.
Sitting on a piece of foamy cut from the kids' sleeping bag underlay-which they
haven't yet discovered, I felt trussed like a Christmas turkey in Nomex suit
and gloves, leather boots, life vest( the runway ends at the dike holding back
the Pacific Ocean),parachute and an old, Gentex helmet on which I kept the tinted
visor down; ostensibly to give additional protection from a birstrike with
one of the steady streams of seagulls returning to the ocean from the city dump
after supper; but actually so no one could see I needed my half-frame glasses
just to see the instruments.
The workshop is now cold, dark and quiet. The silhouette of the fuselage is faintly
visible on the floor, outlined by paint overspray. You'd have to look through
the layer of drilled-off rivet heads and punched-out tails, sharp little
coils of aluminum looking like shiny curly fries, short lengths of wiring insulation,
heatshrink and plastic tubing that look enough like macaroni to keep
fooling our terrier, fine aluminum powder from the Scotchbrite wheel and white
curlies and powder from cutting and fitting the canopy, brown stripes of masking
tape and the twin, green stripes of rivetting tape. I know it wouldn't hurt
to look around for the broom, but I felt the shop had atmosphere.
I'd like to personally thank the wise people who invented plastic-covered aluminum
sheet, oops rivets, blind rivets, brad-point drills, rivet-spacing fans, Unibits,
HVLP and Scotchbrite wheels. Also those patient folk on this list who
take the time to explain the stupidest questions for the rest of us. And controller
Rick, who graciously sent all other traffic at Canada's third-busiest airport
to the crosswind runway and kept them all away from me.
On the other hand, if I ever come across the masochists who thought up Proseal,
fibreglass, Phillips-head screws or fly cutters......
To list the people instrumental in this experience, I would have to start with
Peter Jarman. This is all his fault for giving me a key to his 180hp RV-4 after
I helped him wire and finish it. It only took a few flights before I had a
serious case of," I want one!" He loaned me all his building tools over half-a
decade ago, and made numerous, hour-long trips to the shop on his unmuffled Harley.
The neighbours must've thought we were drug dealers. He phoned frequently,
not even saying Hi, just starting with,"What are you doing on your airplane
today?" Whenver he sensed I was flagging, we would go somewhere in his -4. Coming
from a military family, I respond best to butt-kicking, and he's verbally
kicked mine for six years. Thanks, Peter. Sorry about breaking the trigger
off your rivet gun.
Many others also helped and the wall by the shop phone is covered with their phone
nuimbers. Jim Asprey was our inspector as well as building his own -6. He
eased the pain of the mandatory $642 fee for the final inspection by spending
over four hours on, in and under it so I at least felt like I was getting something
for the money. Brian Carr has built seven of these and had an answer for
every dumb question.Milt Sadoway would interrupt buidling his Rocket whenever
I needed help. Tedd McHenry skipped supper on short notice to act as follow-on
vehicle on the move to the airport. August P. was kind enough to let me abuse
his -6 in a rehearsal of the test flight and several circuits just hours before
it happened for real.
Oldest child, and our only son, Gregory, helped rivet the empennage but discovered
girls when the wings arrived. Oldest daughter Vanessa, who can't wait to learn
to fly, spent one evening in the tailcone lying on a carpet remnant with
a trouble light, ear defenders and an assortment of bucking bars on her tummy.
We made great progress rivetting on the turtledeck until her Mom discovered Vanessa's
bed was empty at 2300 on a school night and shut us down.
They, along with younger daughters, Elisabeth and Samantha, completely covered
the fuselage in Sharpie-pen art, some of it quite touching, most of it gross.
There was so many hangings, stabbings, vomitting,flatulence, and toilet humour
that I started to worry I'd failed as a father.When I peeled the plastic off,
I saved some of it for the shop walls. All four tried not to make me feel guitly
as they individually trekked through the darkness and puddles to the shop
for help with their homework or to wish me a good night. In appreciation of
their help and recognition of the price they, too, paid, the registration is
C-GSEV.
And last, but certainly not the least, is my long-suffering better-half, Jaye.
We met when I was finishing my first homebuilt, a Pitts S1, so she's no stranger
to airplane parts in the dining room and behind the living-room couch, plans
on the night table and parts catalogues beside the tub. Despite having a big
family to raise and a big home to look after, she always dropped whatever she
was doing to appear in the shop within minutes of a call for another pair of
hands. And,as I control in income and she looks after the outgo, Jaye always managed
to find the money for the seemingly-endless stream of four-figure purchases
aircraft require. The children all seem to have clothes and shoes. They don't
look malnourished. I'm not really sure I WANT to know how she did it.
My biulding experience was quite a journey of discovery. In the beginning, way
back at drilling the aluminum straps to the horizontal stabilizer rear spar, I
was so worried about wrecking it. My learning curve wasn't a curve at all, it
was a vertical line. But, confidence comes fast. By the end, I felt like there
wasn't any problem I could not solve or screwup I could not fix. The three
biggest that come to mind are closing the garage door on an aileron (oh well,
I wasn't too happy with it anyways) rivetting the gearleg fairing hinges to the
engine cowling halves and not discovering the error until, having spent half
a day looking for the hinges and always coming across heavier hinge of the correct
length, the light went on; and cutting away the aft fuselage side skin
on the wrong side of a stringer. I still can't believe I did that.
Cars fit back in the garage. The outside of the house and the yard are slowly having
less of a depressing effect upon local real-estate values. Our twenty-four
year-old beater of a Suburban labours out to the old, WWII hangar at Boundary
Bay laden with flying kit, tools, parts, plans and an air compressor.
And everytime I walk into that hangar with a list of adjustments to make and a
couple pf minor snags to tend to, I see this creation poised there on its swept-back
gear, looking like it's going transonic just at rest, resplendent-no,
glowing- in white-and-red Imron paint with sixtie's-era, RCAF Tutor markings.
The big, red spinner points up with attitude as if sniffing the air before
leaping into it. And I invariably think-Hell, I'll work on it later. Let's throw
the 'chute and helmet into it, push it out and call for the fuel bowser. It's
easier than I thought to overlook all the paint runs, smiles and dings, chewed
up screw heads and waves in the skin panels.
Oh yeah-you're probably wondering why I'm disappointed. Well, I didn't get "The
Grin." When the prop stopped and I rolled the canopy back and raised my visor,
my expression could best be described as stunned. I was astonished that it
actually worked, Everything worked, from the homemade annunciator panel, the
WAG of offset for the vertical stab to the dual-throttle system I dreamed up.
The full-size B8 stick grips from Wicks and the mil-surplus F-86 throttle grip
feel so good I'm reluctant to let go to adjust the DG, altimeter or comm.
So, it's been said before-and I've looked forward to saying this-but, keep pounding
those rivets! I know at times it seems like it will never be finished, especially
towards the end; and air tools seems to be lubricated with blood, sweat
and tears. I know it seems to gobble money as fast as Froot Loops disappear
into a teenager's mouth. Trust me, you will not be disappointed. It will be worth
it. Oh, man, is it worth it!
Say, I think I feel a grin comin' on......
Scott in Vancouver
pictures just uploaded to matronics. com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Stripper |
----- Original Message -----
From: <vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire Stripper
>
> In a message dated 9/13/2002 6:15:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> .
>
> Then there are the thermal types that use electricity to heat two opposing
> blades to melt the insulation as you twist. These are good in production
as
> they don't nick strands and will work for a wide range of AWG sizes. They
> are costly at over $125 and are available at Industrial suppliers.
>
>I found mine on eBay for 40USD and they worked great.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight! (Long) |
Way to Go!! Beam me up Scottie!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: First Flight! (Long)
>
> After six-and-a-half years of winter-time building, two moves,
one-and-a-half years in storage,about fifty-thousand Canadian dollars( about
450USD), and several final hours spent working up normal and emergency
checklists and practicing a bailout routine-I made the canopy jettisonable:
> I am both pleased( strike that, Moneypenny; make that thrilled) as well
as disappointed to announce that RV-6 #24613 has left the nest as of
16Aug02.
>
> Into a light wind, the Imitutor surged down the runway and leapt into the
clear, evening sky, giving real meaning to the word airBORNE for me. For
fourty minutes, while being put through the manoeuvres recommended in
"Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft", we scribed gentle circles over the
tidal flats downwind of the into-wind runway as I became acquainted with the
vibration and control feel during clean and partial-flap turns and stalls. A
pratice go-around was followed by a surprisingly gentle touchdown and
straighforward rollout.
>
> Sitting on a piece of foamy cut from the kids' sleeping bag underlay-which
they haven't yet discovered, I felt trussed like a Christmas turkey in Nomex
suit and gloves, leather boots, life vest( the runway ends at the dike
holding back the Pacific Ocean),parachute and an old, Gentex helmet on which
I kept the tinted visor down; ostensibly to give additional protection from
a birstrike with one of the steady streams of seagulls returning to the
ocean from the city dump after supper; but actually so no one could see I
needed my half-frame glasses just to see the instruments.
>
> The workshop is now cold, dark and quiet. The silhouette of the fuselage
is faintly visible on the floor, outlined by paint overspray. You'd have to
look through the layer of drilled-off rivet heads and punched-out tails,
sharp little coils of aluminum looking like shiny curly fries, short lengths
of wiring insulation, heatshrink and plastic tubing that look enough like
macaroni to keep fooling our terrier, fine aluminum powder from the
Scotchbrite wheel and white curlies and powder from cutting and fitting the
canopy, brown stripes of masking tape and the twin, green stripes of
rivetting tape. I know it wouldn't hurt to look around for the broom, but I
felt the shop had atmosphere.
>
> I'd like to personally thank the wise people who invented plastic-covered
aluminum sheet, oops rivets, blind rivets, brad-point drills, rivet-spacing
fans, Unibits, HVLP and Scotchbrite wheels. Also those patient folk on this
list who take the time to explain the stupidest questions for the rest of
us. And controller Rick, who graciously sent all other traffic at Canada's
third-busiest airport to the crosswind runway and kept them all away from
me.
>
> On the other hand, if I ever come across the masochists who thought up
Proseal, fibreglass, Phillips-head screws or fly cutters......
>
> To list the people instrumental in this experience, I would have to start
with Peter Jarman. This is all his fault for giving me a key to his 180hp
RV-4 after I helped him wire and finish it. It only took a few flights
before I had a serious case of," I want one!" He loaned me all his building
tools over half-a decade ago, and made numerous, hour-long trips to the shop
on his unmuffled Harley. The neighbours must've thought we were drug
dealers. He phoned frequently, not even saying Hi, just starting with,"What
are you doing on your airplane today?" Whenver he sensed I was flagging, we
would go somewhere in his -4. Coming from a military family, I respond best
to butt-kicking, and he's verbally kicked mine for six years. Thanks,
Peter. Sorry about breaking the trigger off your rivet gun.
>
> Many others also helped and the wall by the shop phone is covered with
their phone nuimbers. Jim Asprey was our inspector as well as building his
own -6. He eased the pain of the mandatory $642 fee for the final inspection
by spending over four hours on, in and under it so I at least felt like I
was getting something for the money. Brian Carr has built seven of these and
had an answer for every dumb question.Milt Sadoway would interrupt buidling
his Rocket whenever I needed help. Tedd McHenry skipped supper on short
notice to act as follow-on vehicle on the move to the airport. August P. was
kind enough to let me abuse his -6 in a rehearsal of the test flight and
several circuits just hours before it happened for real.
>
> Oldest child, and our only son, Gregory, helped rivet the empennage but
discovered girls when the wings arrived. Oldest daughter Vanessa, who can't
wait to learn to fly, spent one evening in the tailcone lying on a carpet
remnant with a trouble light, ear defenders and an assortment of bucking
bars on her tummy. We made great progress rivetting on the turtledeck until
her Mom discovered Vanessa's bed was empty at 2300 on a school night and
shut us down.
>
> They, along with younger daughters, Elisabeth and Samantha, completely
covered the fuselage in Sharpie-pen art, some of it quite touching, most of
it gross. There was so many hangings, stabbings, vomitting,flatulence, and
toilet humour that I started to worry I'd failed as a father.When I peeled
the plastic off, I saved some of it for the shop walls. All four tried not
to make me feel guitly as they individually trekked through the darkness and
puddles to the shop for help with their homework or to wish me a good night.
In appreciation of their help and recognition of the price they, too, paid,
the registration is C-GSEV.
>
> And last, but certainly not the least, is my long-suffering better-half,
Jaye. We met when I was finishing my first homebuilt, a Pitts S1, so she's
no stranger to airplane parts in the dining room and behind the living-room
couch, plans on the night table and parts catalogues beside the tub. Despite
having a big family to raise and a big home to look after, she always
dropped whatever she was doing to appear in the shop within minutes of a
call for another pair of hands. And,as I control in income and she looks
after the outgo, Jaye always managed to find the money for the
seemingly-endless stream of four-figure purchases aircraft require. The
children all seem to have clothes and shoes. They don't look malnourished.
I'm not really sure I WANT to know how she did it.
>
>
> My biulding experience was quite a journey of discovery. In the beginning,
way back at drilling the aluminum straps to the horizontal stabilizer rear
spar, I was so worried about wrecking it. My learning curve wasn't a curve
at all, it was a vertical line. But, confidence comes fast. By the end, I
felt like there wasn't any problem I could not solve or screwup I could not
fix. The three biggest that come to mind are closing the garage door on an
aileron (oh well, I wasn't too happy with it anyways) rivetting the gearleg
fairing hinges to the engine cowling halves and not discovering the error
until, having spent half a day looking for the hinges and always coming
across heavier hinge of the correct length, the light went on; and cutting
away the aft fuselage side skin on the wrong side of a stringer. I still
can't believe I did that.
>
> Cars fit back in the garage. The outside of the house and the yard are
slowly having less of a depressing effect upon local real-estate values. Our
twenty-four year-old beater of a Suburban labours out to the old, WWII
hangar at Boundary Bay laden with flying kit, tools, parts, plans and an air
compressor.
>
> And everytime I walk into that hangar with a list of adjustments to make
and a couple pf minor snags to tend to, I see this creation poised there on
its swept-back gear, looking like it's going transonic just at rest,
resplendent-no, glowing- in white-and-red Imron paint with sixtie's-era,
RCAF Tutor markings. The big, red spinner points up with attitude as if
sniffing the air before leaping into it. And I invariably think-Hell, I'll
work on it later. Let's throw the 'chute and helmet into it, push it out and
call for the fuel bowser. It's easier than I thought to overlook all the
paint runs, smiles and dings, chewed up screw heads and waves in the skin
panels.
>
> Oh yeah-you're probably wondering why I'm disappointed. Well, I didn't
get "The Grin." When the prop stopped and I rolled the canopy back and
raised my visor, my expression could best be described as stunned. I was
astonished that it actually worked, Everything worked, from the homemade
annunciator panel, the WAG of offset for the vertical stab to the
dual-throttle system I dreamed up. The full-size B8 stick grips from Wicks
and the mil-surplus F-86 throttle grip feel so good I'm reluctant to let go
to adjust the DG, altimeter or comm.
>
> So, it's been said before-and I've looked forward to saying this-but, keep
pounding those rivets! I know at times it seems like it will never be
finished, especially towards the end; and air tools seems to be lubricated
with blood, sweat and tears. I know it seems to gobble money as fast as
Froot Loops disappear into a teenager's mouth. Trust me, you will not be
disappointed. It will be worth it. Oh, man, is it worth it!
>
> Say, I think I feel a grin comin' on......
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> pictures just uploaded to matronics. com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Reno news needed |
Here are my two favorite Reno web sites. They are updated daily and you can
see who is beating whom. They give all of the races and the results from
every recent race.
http://renoforflorida.com/
http://www.wic.org/bio/jreno.htm
Glad that I could be of help this morning.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie and
Tupper England
Subject: RV-List: Reno news needed
Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
I just saw a posting on RAH that I need to verify & I can't find anything
about
today's events.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed |
BARNSTORMERS.COM AVIATION EVENTS
Here is another site with some reno photos. Not the best quality.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
In a message dated 9/13/02 11:59:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com writes:
<< I used 60# sacks of pea gravel from Home Depot, about 4 bucks apiece. You
can of course divide it up as required. Diana had use for them in the
landscaping when I was done.
Mike >>
I used the weights from my (largely unused) weight set. I put them in gym
bags and then strapped the gym bags down in the appropriate locations. This
also allowed me to load the airplane (especially the baggage area) one weight
at a time if necessary - that reach over isn't especially spine friendly for
large items.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed |
I think this is the "official" Reno website: It has some info but I'm not
sure if it has what you are looking for.
http://www.airrace.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: Reno news needed
>
> Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
>
> I just saw a posting on RAH that I need to verify & I can't find anything
about
> today's events.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Taylor" <david(at)hom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed |
One more site with Reno news:
http://www.aafo.com/racing/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: Reno news needed
>
> Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
>
> I just saw a posting on RAH that I need to verify & I can't find anything
about
> today's events.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom and Faye" <tcrupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
The response to my alternator question was great.
Thanks to everyone.
Here are 2 more. 1. Who manufactures the most comfortable seats for the
RV4? 2. Does any one have the dimensions for building the seats from
scratch. I might try that.
Thanks
Tom Rupe
S/N 62
________________________________________________________________________________
You are right, the sites do show who is getting beat- JANET RENO.
Way to go Florida !!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed |
> Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
> >
>
Thanks for all your replies.
A friend from MS was killed there yesterday & reports are rather sparce &
conflicting. Different sites can't even agree on what plane he was flying.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Viruses - Real or Hoax |
Good Morning to all and apologies for off-topic,
If someone you know sends you an e-mail stating that you have been infected
with a virus accidentally sent by them, DO NOT blindly follow their instructions
before checking to see if it's a hoax on
www.snopes2.com
The friend will give you the name of the so-called virus (usually ends in .exe)
and when "snopes2" opens, click on the computer icon and follow the instructions.
They will list all the viruses they know about and whether or not they're
real.
Assuming that the virus is real when it is not can lead to your deleting important
things from your computer that it needs to operate correctly.
A pox on anyone who perpetrates such cruel insanity just for kicks!
And now...back to priming rear seatback support with SW-988!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Build your own prop....? |
Dick Scott wrote:
"...Warnings are displayed not only on his instrument panel, but he
gets an audio warning in his headset, saying "gear not down" so he can't miss the
warning."
Warning horns, lights, etc. are "aids" to the pilot, not cures.
Don't know how many people have landed gear up in retractables with the gear warning
horn blasting away in the cockpit, but a good friend and excellent pilot
did just that, so I know of at least one! Never say never because it can (and
sometimes does) happen to you. In the immortal words of Chevy Chase, "The mind
is a terrible thing!"
And now...I'm really going to go work on that plane.
Ken in Roscoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
>
>
>For the AirCam, we used 25# sacks of "play sand" from Home Depot.
>
>Many people use 25# bags of lead shot, but having these in the back of
>the airplane during testing makes me a little nervous in case of a
>"Class A" incident where they might become a projectile.
>
>
>
I just have to ask,.... What hurts worse. Getting hit by a 25# bag of
lead shot or a 25# bag of sand. They both make great projectiles.
Strap em both down for testing.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall buckling on RV-4 |
Mid 1200's Serial # with 700 hours and O-320. Found both lower engine
mount weldments cracked. What upgrades are now recommended? Have
others had same problem. TIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Back Firing at Idle |
I have this same setup and problem, however it only happens after a short fuel
stop and re-start. After landing and before shutdown it idles just fine so I
think that rules out an intake leak. I think the problem is heat soaking in the
FI system. I do have the AFP purge valve and use it to cool the system down
before a hot start but it doesn't seem to have any effect on the problem. If I
run the rpm up to about 1k it smoothes out and stops backfiring but that's a
little fast for an idle.
Dave -6 SO Cal
Denis Walsh wrote:
>
> May potential problems; however mine was caused by an induction leak. First
> and easiest thing to check.
>
> Check both the rubber connections and clamps and also the gaskets were the
> tubes go in to the cylinders.
>
> If this is what you had, then leaning the idle mixture would have made it
> worse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall buckling on RV-4 |
Greg,
Yep, Been there... Done that!!! (times three). I'll forward you some
of the "fixes". This buckling seems to occur in quite a few of our beloved
RV-4's. Van's however, insists it's "rare... and... not a problem because
the firewall is not a supporting structure.". I believe it's a design flaw
and I told them so {after I replaced the first firewall and it re-buckled
within a few hours and about 6 t.o/landinds} . I made my own structural
improvements on my RV-4, and tried some other suggestions on the RV-4 I had
bought, flew, repaired, flew, repaired etc...
Basically what's needed to prevent this is strategically located
reinforcements. As one intelligent gentleman told me... "Just imagine the
front structure without the stainless firewall; notice how several points
are not tied together sufficiently (or not at all) and at other points they
look like they should have stronger bracing?". Now just think about what
reinforcements you would want to make to ensure that this was a "strong"
section, and build it that way.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV-List: Firewall buckling on RV-4
>
> Mid 1200's Serial # with 700 hours and O-320. Found both lower engine
> mount weldments cracked. What upgrades are now recommended? Have
> others had same problem. TIA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Bloodpressure testing kit uses |
After finding that the little bulb with a check valve and gauge works wonderfully
for testing the pitot system; I tested the inlet end of the bulb and found
it creates( no surprize, really) suction!So, another length of tubing over that
going to a suction cup and, viola, a static system leak tester.
But wait, there's more! When the airplane's finished and you're flying, put the
pressure cuff back on the tubing. Unfold the curl in it and stick it across your
lower back. Presto-instant, remotely-adjustable lumbar support!
Sorry, must be breathing too many 100LL fumes.
Scott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davefried" <davefried(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was bloodpressure) |
Has anyone come up with ideas to improve the view
over the nose while taxiing a 6?
I went for fuel the other day with an extra cushion and
the view was terrific but I couldn't close the canopy.
Scott Jackson's blood pressure kit idea got me going.
Pump it up for a better view on taxi, release the air at
the runway, lock the canopy and go flying.
Dave Fried
C-GZDF Deltafox 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was bloodpressure) |
In a message dated 9/15/02 6:08:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
davefried(at)rogers.com writes:
<< Has anyone come up with ideas to improve the view
over the nose while taxiing a 6?
I went for fuel the other day with an extra cushion and
the view was terrific but I couldn't close the canopy.
Scott Jackson's blood pressure kit idea got me going.
Pump it up for a better view on taxi, release the air at
the runway, lock the canopy and go flying.
Dave Fried
C-GZDF Deltafox 6 >>
Why couldn't you close the canopy? Because the front bar wouldn't clear your
headsets as the canopy was sliding forward, or because you still didn't fit
once the canopy was closed?
I have pretty thick cushions in my seats, which provides a good field of view
- I can see the centerline beginning about 50' in front of my plane. The
only downside is that standard operating procedure is to duck your head as
the canopy is being closed because it'll hit your head otherwise. However,
once the canopy is closed, there is ample headroom.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Carb and fuel pump for sale |
I have a brand new, never used carb and fuel pump for an O-360 for
sale. I'm asking $600 for the carb and $140 for the fuel pump. If you are
interested, please email or give me a call. Hope everyone's projects are
going great!
George Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
www.fly-gbi.com
940-648-0841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvator" <rvator(at)nafsinger.com> |
| Subject: | Reno news needed |
I would love to hear what you find out. I met Tommy in 99 when he still
had the Thunder Mustang. Hellva nice guy, he will be missed.
RIP
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie and
Tupper England
Subject: Re: RV-List: Reno news needed
> Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
> >
>
Thanks for all your replies.
A friend from MS was killed there yesterday & reports are rather sparce
&
conflicting. Different sites can't even agree on what plane he was
flying.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed (Tommy Rose Update) |
According to WWW.Pylon1.com . Tommy was killed in the accident flying a
Questaire Venture. It apparently happened when he flew through some wake
turbulence. They are speculating that it cause the tail to separate. This is
sad news in deed. They have an interview on the site from the ARA.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rvator" <rvator(at)nafsinger.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Reno news needed
>
> I would love to hear what you find out. I met Tommy in 99 when he still
> had the Thunder Mustang. Hellva nice guy, he will be missed.
>
> RIP
>
> Nick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie and
> Tupper England
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Reno news needed
>
>
>
>
> > Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a link to late-breaking news from Reno air racing?
> > >
> >
> Thanks for all your replies.
>
> A friend from MS was killed there yesterday & reports are rather sparce
> &
> conflicting. Different sites can't even agree on what plane he was
> flying.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
Thanks,
Amit.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net> |
| Subject: | Reno news needed |
The Reno Newspaper describes the fatality in Friday's race at Reno as Tommy
Rose of Hickory Miss. flying a Questair Venture.
See www.rgj.com/news/stories/html/2002/09/15/23794.php?sp1=&sp2=&sp3= .
I had the misfortune of being an eye witness to the accident. He was flying
the straightaway in
front of the stands at approximately 300 mph at about 100 to 200 feet when
the aircraft suddenly
pitched down at about a 15 to 20 degree angle and impacted the earth. The
accident sequence
took less than a second to unfold. Some eyewitnesses say they saw pieces
depart the tail of
the airplane before it pitched down. I didn't see that myself, but it
happened so fast that
I cann't deny it's possible. It was a sickening thing to see. He no doubt
had many friends and
relatives at the race and the shock they must have felt is incomprehensible.
Dan Morrow
RV8A Building Empennage slowly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reno news needed |
rvator wrote:
>
>
> I would love to hear what you find out. I met Tommy in 99 when he still
> had the Thunder Mustang. Hellva nice guy, he will be missed.
>
> RIP
>
> Nick
>
snip
> Thanks for all your replies.
>
> A friend from MS was killed there yesterday & reports are rather sparce
> &
> conflicting. Different sites can't even agree on what plane he was
> flying.
>
> Charlie
>
The official Reno race page posted earlier by Robert McCallum seems to have the
best info.
http://www.pylon1.com/
You never knew what Tommy would be flying next in his quest for speed. He will
indeed be missed.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
I have removable floor boards in the baggage compartment of my 6A. The
Whelen power supply is behind the passenger seat in this area.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Whelen single power supply - placement ?
>
>
> I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
> strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davefried" <davefried(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was bloodpressure) |
Kyle,
I'm 6'4" and have a tip-up canopy. With the canopy resting on the roll bar,
(there is a device to hold it open 4 inches) there is lots of room. My head
touches the acrylic when properly closed. I can split the difference on the
extra cushion and add it to my yet to be upholstered seats, but I really
like
the view with a little extra. I recall a number of WW2 fighters had an
adjustable seat position for TO/Landing... seems reasonable.
The only negative comment the test pilot had was about over the nose
visibility
on the ground.
Dave Fried
C-GZDF Deltafox-6
>
> Why couldn't you close the canopy? Because the front bar wouldn't clear
your
> headsets as the canopy was sliding forward, or because you still didn't
fit
> once the canopy was closed?
>
> I have pretty thick cushions in my seats, which provides a good field of
view
> - I can see the centerline beginning about 50' in front of my plane. The
> only downside is that standard operating procedure is to duck your head as
> the canopy is being closed because it'll hit your head otherwise.
However,
> once the canopy is closed, there is ample headroom.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
You've gotten a bunch of suggestions, so far. The most important one has
been implied. Make sure that whatever you do decide to use can be properly
secured, will not shift if things get bouncy and will remain in one piece if
batted around a bit.
Dan&Patty Krueger wrote:
>
> I'll soon be exploring the aft CG limits during my test flights. I'll
> need about 300 pounds of ballast. Any suggestions for what to use for
> ballast would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Dan Krueger
> RV-6A - Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery for RV |
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gretz aero" <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
"Tailwind-List" ,
"RV-List" ,
"Rocket-List" ,
"Lancair-List" ,
"Glasair-List" ,
"EZ-List" ,
"AeroElectric-List" ,
"Avionics-List"
| Subject: | Gretz Aero at Copperstate |
Hello listers,
This is inform you that Gretz Aero will have a booth at Copperstate EAA Regional
Fly-In this year. The dates of the Fly-In are October 10, 11, 12, and 13th.
The Gretz Aero booth will be in booth spaces 11,12 and 13. Stop by and say hello.
We will have "show special" pricing on some popular items.
Copperstate is at a new location this year and is located south of the Phoenix metro area at the Phoenix Regional Grand Valley Airport (A39). Copperstate has a webpage at http://www.copperstate.org for more information.
You can visit the Gretz Aero webpage at http://www.gretzaero.com to get an idea of the Gretz Aero products before you arrive at Copperstate.
See you there!
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
720-308-0010 cell days
303-770-3811 home office, evenings and weekends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kysh <vans-dragon(at)lapdragon.org> |
As Donald Mei was saying:
> Daryl said the header will tell you where the email came from. Correct, but
> with caveats. It will tell you the IP address. You can use the IP address
> to find the ISP. The ISP can check their logs to see who had that IP
> address at that time. BUT THEY WILL NOT BOTHER.
Just a caveat to this caveat- Some MTAs, especially those who use auth-via-
pop for SMTP sessions, may be configured to add more information- For example,
uid or X-Apparently-from, or perform a complete header rewrite.
So, sometimes the info you see in the headers is correct.
> Another thought. Let me preface it with, like Daryl said, update your virus
> signature files daily. But, The virus is Klez. Most virus apps have
> recognized Klez and all its variants for months. The source of this is most
> likely a list member who does not even have anti-virus software.
I don't have anti-virus software. Never have, never will. I also have never
become infected with any virii or worms.
> If you don't have antivirus software, get some. Its kindof like wearing a
> condom, common courtesy.
They don't make antivirus software for my platform. Even if they did, it
wouldn't have anything to do. :>
>
> Re: brand of virus s/w. Norton and McAfee are the biggest. Norton is
> considered by most to be the best, but it is more expensive. Something like
> $59 with one year of updates, McAfee is $49 with lifetime updates. (Approx)
The last thing I'll say here is that there are theories out there that the
makers of anti-virus software author or support viruses and worms to boost
their business. Even if that's not true (And it may or may not be), why pay
for software you don't need? There are plenty of free antivirus products out
there, Paying for software is so.. 1980.
>
> Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
> security
... And anti-virus software. ;>
-Kysh
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.unix-vs-nt.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
-- Albert Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
>
>
>I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
>strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
>Thanks,
>Amit.
>
On my -8, I mounted it to the side of the fuselage behind the rear
baggage area, as I wanted to get the weight fairly far aft.
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/fuselage/f11.html
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
In a message dated 9/15/02 9:25:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
khorto1537(at)rogers.com writes:
>
>
>I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
>strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
>Thanks,
>Amit.
>
On my -8, I mounted it to the side of the fuselage behind the rear
baggage area, as I wanted to get the weight fairly far aft.
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/fuselage/f11.html
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) >>
And on my wood-propped RV-6, I mounted it as far forward as possible. It is
mounted to one of the 3 braces which run between the firewall and the panel,
and rivet to the top skin. I was somewhat concerned about strobe noise
through the radio or intercom with this installation, but it isn't a problem.
Bottom line.. put it where you need to in order to tweak your finished CG.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron and Kay Robinson" <ronkayr(at)rmci.net> |
I'm scratch building a sliding canopy on an RV4.
Question: Has anyone flown a -4 with a sliding canopy with the canopy open ? What
were the results ?
Ron -- ronkayr(at)rmci.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
Amit,
I have just uploaded a photo that shows the Whelen power supply mounted
beneath the baggage floor of my RV-9A. Here is the link:
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/fuse-1.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Ray,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: GRENIER(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:25:48 EDT
>
>
>Another one leaves the nest: RV4-8, N20RG #897. A bit over three years
>incubation.
>She flew like a dream, no problems, no surprises -- except for the take off
>performance that I found truly exciting -- and the best landing to date. -8
>because it has an RV-8 empanage, are there any others out there? The
>engine
>is an O-360 with an AFP fuel injector, Hartzel C/S prop, an IK2000 engine
>monitor, MicroAir transceiver and transponder, GPS and other neat stuff
>that
>seriously challenged the limited cockpit and panel spaces.
>
>Many thanks to all of you who shared knowledge, wisdom and inspitration
>over
>this list and at various flying events. No doubt about it, these RVs are
>truly magnificent machines!
>
>Ray Grenier, Nashua NH
>RV4 flying!!!!!
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight! (Long) |
Scott,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight! (Long)
>Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:45:01 -0700
>
>
>
>After six-and-a-half years of winter-time building, two moves,
>one-and-a-half years in storage,about fifty-thousand Canadian dollars(
>about 450USD), and several final hours spent working up normal and
>emergency checklists and practicing a bailout routine-I made the canopy
>jettisonable:
> I am both pleased( strike that, Moneypenny; make that thrilled) as well
>as disappointed to announce that RV-6 #24613 has left the nest as of
>16Aug02.
>
>Into a light wind, the Imitutor surged down the runway and leapt into the
>clear, evening sky, giving real meaning to the word airBORNE for me. For
>fourty minutes, while being put through the manoeuvres recommended in
>"Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft", we scribed gentle circles over the
>tidal flats downwind of the into-wind runway as I became acquainted with
>the vibration and control feel during clean and partial-flap turns and
>stalls. A pratice go-around was followed by a surprisingly gentle touchdown
>and straighforward rollout.
>
>Sitting on a piece of foamy cut from the kids' sleeping bag underlay-which
>they haven't yet discovered, I felt trussed like a Christmas turkey in
>Nomex suit and gloves, leather boots, life vest( the runway ends at the
>dike holding back the Pacific Ocean),parachute and an old, Gentex helmet on
>which I kept the tinted visor down; ostensibly to give additional
>protection from a birstrike with one of the steady streams of seagulls
>returning to the ocean from the city dump after supper; but actually so no
>one could see I needed my half-frame glasses just to see the instruments.
>
>The workshop is now cold, dark and quiet. The silhouette of the fuselage is
>faintly visible on the floor, outlined by paint overspray. You'd have to
>look through the layer of drilled-off rivet heads and punched-out tails,
>sharp little coils of aluminum looking like shiny curly fries, short
>lengths of wiring insulation, heatshrink and plastic tubing that look
>enough like macaroni to keep fooling our terrier, fine aluminum powder from
>the Scotchbrite wheel and white curlies and powder from cutting and fitting
>the canopy, brown stripes of masking tape and the twin, green stripes of
>rivetting tape. I know it wouldn't hurt to look around for the broom, but I
>felt the shop had atmosphere.
>
>I'd like to personally thank the wise people who invented plastic-covered
>aluminum sheet, oops rivets, blind rivets, brad-point drills, rivet-spacing
>fans, Unibits, HVLP and Scotchbrite wheels. Also those patient folk on this
>list who take the time to explain the stupidest questions for the rest of
>us. And controller Rick, who graciously sent all other traffic at Canada's
>third-busiest airport to the crosswind runway and kept them all away from
>me.
>
>On the other hand, if I ever come across the masochists who thought up
>Proseal, fibreglass, Phillips-head screws or fly cutters......
>
>To list the people instrumental in this experience, I would have to start
>with Peter Jarman. This is all his fault for giving me a key to his 180hp
>RV-4 after I helped him wire and finish it. It only took a few flights
>before I had a serious case of," I want one!" He loaned me all his building
>tools over half-a decade ago, and made numerous, hour-long trips to the
>shop on his unmuffled Harley. The neighbours must've thought we were drug
>dealers. He phoned frequently, not even saying Hi, just starting with,"What
>are you doing on your airplane today?" Whenver he sensed I was flagging, we
>would go somewhere in his -4. Coming from a military family, I respond best
>to butt-kicking, and he's verbally kicked mine for six years. Thanks,
>Peter. Sorry about breaking the trigger off your rivet gun.
>
>Many others also helped and the wall by the shop phone is covered with
>their phone nuimbers. Jim Asprey was our inspector as well as building his
>own -6. He eased the pain of the mandatory $642 fee for the final
>inspection by spending over four hours on, in and under it so I at least
>felt like I was getting something for the money. Brian Carr has built seven
>of these and had an answer for every dumb question.Milt Sadoway would
>interrupt buidling his Rocket whenever I needed help. Tedd McHenry skipped
>supper on short notice to act as follow-on vehicle on the move to the
>airport. August P. was kind enough to let me abuse his -6 in a rehearsal of
>the test flight and several circuits just hours before it happened for
>real.
>
>Oldest child, and our only son, Gregory, helped rivet the empennage but
>discovered girls when the wings arrived. Oldest daughter Vanessa, who can't
>wait to learn to fly, spent one evening in the tailcone lying on a carpet
>remnant with a trouble light, ear defenders and an assortment of bucking
>bars on her tummy. We made great progress rivetting on the turtledeck until
>her Mom discovered Vanessa's bed was empty at 2300 on a school night and
>shut us down.
>
>They, along with younger daughters, Elisabeth and Samantha, completely
>covered the fuselage in Sharpie-pen art, some of it quite touching, most of
>it gross. There was so many hangings, stabbings, vomitting,flatulence,
>and toilet humour that I started to worry I'd failed as a father.When I
>peeled the plastic off, I saved some of it for the shop walls. All four
>tried not to make me feel guitly as they individually trekked through the
>darkness and puddles to the shop for help with their homework or to wish me
>a good night. In appreciation of their help and recognition of the price
>they, too, paid, the registration is C-GSEV.
>
>And last, but certainly not the least, is my long-suffering better-half,
>Jaye. We met when I was finishing my first homebuilt, a Pitts S1, so she's
>no stranger to airplane parts in the dining room and behind the living-room
>couch, plans on the night table and parts catalogues beside the tub.
>Despite having a big family to raise and a big home to look after, she
>always dropped whatever she was doing to appear in the shop within minutes
>of a call for another pair of hands. And,as I control in income and she
>looks after the outgo, Jaye always managed to find the money for the
>seemingly-endless stream of four-figure purchases aircraft require. The
>children all seem to have clothes and shoes. They don't look malnourished.
>I'm not really sure I WANT to know how she did it.
>
>
>My biulding experience was quite a journey of discovery. In the beginning,
>way back at drilling the aluminum straps to the horizontal stabilizer rear
>spar, I was so worried about wrecking it. My learning curve wasn't a curve
>at all, it was a vertical line. But, confidence comes fast. By the end, I
>felt like there wasn't any problem I could not solve or screwup I could not
>fix. The three biggest that come to mind are closing the garage door on an
>aileron (oh well, I wasn't too happy with it anyways) rivetting the gearleg
>fairing hinges to the engine cowling halves and not discovering the error
>until, having spent half a day looking for the hinges and always coming
>across heavier hinge of the correct length, the light went on; and cutting
>away the aft fuselage side skin on the wrong side of a stringer. I still
>can't believe I did that.
>
>Cars fit back in the garage. The outside of the house and the yard are
>slowly having less of a depressing effect upon local real-estate values.
>Our twenty-four year-old beater of a Suburban labours out to the old, WWII
>hangar at Boundary Bay laden with flying kit, tools, parts, plans and an
>air compressor.
>
>And everytime I walk into that hangar with a list of adjustments to make
>and a couple pf minor snags to tend to, I see this creation poised there on
>its swept-back gear, looking like it's going transonic just at rest,
>resplendent-no, glowing- in white-and-red Imron paint with sixtie's-era,
>RCAF Tutor markings. The big, red spinner points up with attitude as if
>sniffing the air before leaping into it. And I invariably think-Hell, I'll
>work on it later. Let's throw the 'chute and helmet into it, push it out
>and call for the fuel bowser. It's easier than I thought to overlook all
>the paint runs, smiles and dings, chewed up screw heads and waves in the
>skin panels.
>
>Oh yeah-you're probably wondering why I'm disappointed. Well, I didn't get
>"The Grin." When the prop stopped and I rolled the canopy back and raised
>my visor, my expression could best be described as stunned. I was
>astonished that it actually worked, Everything worked, from the homemade
>annunciator panel, the WAG of offset for the vertical stab to the
>dual-throttle system I dreamed up. The full-size B8 stick grips from Wicks
>and the mil-surplus F-86 throttle grip feel so good I'm reluctant to let go
>to adjust the DG, altimeter or comm.
>
>So, it's been said before-and I've looked forward to saying this-but, keep
>pounding those rivets! I know at times it seems like it will never be
>finished, especially towards the end; and air tools seems to be lubricated
>with blood, sweat and tears. I know it seems to gobble money as fast as
>Froot Loops disappear into a teenager's mouth. Trust me, you will not be
>disappointed. It will be worth it. Oh, man, is it worth it!
>
>Say, I think I feel a grin comin' on......
>
>Scott in Vancouver
>pictures just uploaded to matronics. com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV4 Canopy |
There is one gentleman who had a sliding canopy who made a fairing that he
could slide on instead of the sliding portion of the canopy. It covered the
rear seat effectively making it an open cockpit airplane. Reports were that
it flew just fine.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE - CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron and Kay Robinson [mailto:ronkayr(at)rmci.net]
Subject: RV4-List: RV4 Canopy
--> RV4-List message posted by: "Ron and Kay Robinson"
I'm scratch building a sliding canopy on an RV4.
Question: Has anyone flown a -4 with a sliding canopy with the canopy open ?
What were the results ?
Ron -- ronkayr(at)rmci.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith(at)galvinflying.com> |
| Subject: | Reno news needed |
I met Tommy Rose at the Airventure Cup Race this year. He was a fine
gentleman and a passionate aviator. I wish I knew him better. I believe this
was his first official pylon race.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Morrow
Subject: RV-List: Reno news needed
The Reno Newspaper describes the fatality in Friday's race at Reno as Tommy
Rose of Hickory Miss. flying a Questair Venture.
See www.rgj.com/news/stories/html/2002/09/15/23794.php?sp1=&sp2=&sp3= .
I had the misfortune of being an eye witness to the accident. He was flying
the straightaway in
front of the stands at approximately 300 mph at about 100 to 200 feet when
the aircraft suddenly
pitched down at about a 15 to 20 degree angle and impacted the earth. The
accident sequence
took less than a second to unfold. Some eyewitnesses say they saw pieces
depart the tail of
the airplane before it pitched down. I didn't see that myself, but it
happened so fast that
I cann't deny it's possible. It was a sickening thing to see. He no doubt
had many friends and
relatives at the race and the shock they must have felt is incomprehensible.
Dan Morrow
RV8A Building Empennage slowly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was bloodpressure) |
Hi Dave,
Congratulations on getting the taperwing up in the air... Sorry I missed
seeing it when I was out to Ontario last September.
Just this weekend I was looking at one of the replica Spitfires on our
field, and I asked what one of the switches did on the dash. He replied
that it was an electric seat. Sure enough, he has an electric seat
adjust. He said it came out of a car, but I don't know which one.
Given that it's a 2/3 scale Spitfire, it can't be that heavy a unit.
Still, depsite the "cool" factor, I think your best solution is S-turns.
Personally, i'm used to a homebuilt with a low wing, tandem seating,
and piloted from the rear. I don't think I could taxi a straight line
if I wanted to... 8-)
-RB4
rv7 "at" b4.ca
RV-7 Empennage
davefried wrote:
>
> Has anyone come up with ideas to improve the view
> over the nose while taxiing a 6?
>
> I went for fuel the other day with an extra cushion and
> the view was terrific but I couldn't close the canopy.
>
> Scott Jackson's blood pressure kit idea got me going.
> Pump it up for a better view on taxi, release the air at
> the runway, lock the canopy and go flying.
>
> Dave Fried
> C-GZDF Deltafox 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Bloodpressure testing kit uses (Airspeed Indicator tester also) |
Add Airspeed indicator checker to that list also. I also have used the
arm cuff for lumbar support......works great.
Thats five uses for this 16 dollar device......not bad
Bloodpressure testing kit uses
After finding that the little bulb with a check valve and gauge works
wonderfully for testing the pitot system; I
tested the inlet end of the bulb and found it creates( no surprize,
really) suction!So, another length of tubing over
that going to a suction cup and, viola, a static system leak tester.
But wait, there's more! When the airplane's finished and you're flying,
put the pressure cuff back on the tubing.
Unfold the curl in it and stick it across your lower back.
Presto-instant, remotely-adjustable lumbar support!
Sorry, must be breathing too many 100LL fumes.
Scott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain update (Efis lt) |
Is the unit with the GPS and a moving map and terrain the EFIS Light
??? Have the issues that Sam Buchanon noted last month addressed ??
How much is this unit now ?? How does it compair with the Dynon EFIS
now...
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain update (Efis lt)
I finally received my (one of a kind) Efis light. Greg split the case
and display so I might customize the
installation (smaller panel footprint). I have modified Greg's bezel,
constructed an enclosure(smaller than Blue
Mountains) and am installing this weekend. The unit looks terrific and
the quality is excellent. I would plan a
larger space, in the top middle of your panel for the light if you are
thinking about it. Just a quarter of an inch
horizontal and about 1/2 " vertical (more than typical space for the
stock AG). I will post some early install
pictures and notify list this weekend. Looks good, finally.
Greg advised me last week that all units are shipping with a GPS antenna
receiver and an easy upgrade to
moving terrain for about $300.00. This unit just keeps getting more
valuable!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/16/02 3:06:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JKITZ1(at)columbus.rr.com writes:
>
> I am in the market for a GPS. Anyone have a good one for sale? I want one
> that is in perfect working order with remote antenna and aircraft database.
> The database does not have to be current, but must have the ability to
> update.
> Contact me direct.
>
> Thanks
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
I have a Garmin GPS 90 hardly used (bought a Mooney with Two Panel Mount GPS
units already installed0 Cost $700 will sell for $250.
Scott Morrow
Mooney M20C
RV-6A QB 80%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Knight Upholstery for RV |
You didn't mention RV9A. I'm about to finish one. Do you have anything for
us nine guys?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Knight" <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
Subject: RV-List: Knight Upholstery for RV
>
>
> RV Builders:
>
> I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
> upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
> available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
> other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several
kitplane
> manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
> request.
>
> For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
> 207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
> information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
> reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
> available upon request.
>
> Sincerely,
> KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
> "Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>
> Sam Knight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Ballast for test flights |
Any reason why an ugly bag of water won't work?
If the W&B adds up and the plane maneuvers right solo, what's gained.
Are you just trying to find the limit? What is the expected limit?
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik(at)direcpc.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ballast for test flights
>
>
>For the AirCam, we used 25# sacks of "play sand" from Home Depot.
>
>Many people use 25# bags of lead shot, but having these in the back of
>the airplane during testing makes me a little nervous in case of a
>"Class A" incident where they might become a projectile.
>
>
>
I just have to ask,.... What hurts worse. Getting hit by a 25# bag of
lead shot or a 25# bag of sand. They both make great projectiles.
Strap em both down for testing.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
In a message dated 9/16/02 7:40:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com writes:
Any reason why an ugly bag of water won't work?
If the W&B adds up and the plane maneuvers right solo, what's gained.
Are you just trying to find the limit? What is the expected limit? >>
You're trying to find out how the plane handles with a passenger or a
passenger and baggage. It would be irresponsible to fly your entire test
period solo, then begin taking up passengers (and their baggage) before you
explore how the airplane flies when heavy or near the edges of the W/B
envelope. Believe me, there is a significant difference in how these
airplanes fly when you add 300 pounds and/or move the CG by 4-5 inches.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the airbox for
its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter cleaner spray,
which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and low (twice, and
I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and I cannot find the
stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the utility sink, because I
always clean the filter there. Something about sharing a house with 4 other
people...
I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are there
any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any suggestions
welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I suppose I can order
some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am tempted to flush with
gasoline or something similarly drastic.
Help appreciated, as always.
-Bill B
at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I just purchased a new filter, and having nothing better to do, read all the
shit on the box. It says it only needs to be cleaned every 100,000 miles.
Keeping this in mind I would think that equates to about each 2000 hours.
I would consider knocking the bugs out and reinstalling it, meanwhile order
a new bottle of spray goop. Wash it next time.
D Walsh, master of free advice and rationalization
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:21:19 -0400
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
> Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the airbox
> for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter cleaner
> spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and low (twice,
> and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and I cannot find
> the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the utility sink,
> because I always clean the filter there. Something about sharing a house with
> 4 other people...
>
> I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are
> there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
> suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
> suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
> tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
>
> Help appreciated, as always.
>
> -Bill B
> at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
In the event that you decide to use water for ballast, please consider the
possible malfunctions such as a
burst container. Would the water possibly flow into the tail leaving your
aircraft outside the rear CG envelope?
I know of a professional flight test program that carried a spear to
puncture the bottom skin after one of their tanks sprang a leak. In
general, one should always spend some time pondering the possible failure
modes anytime you do something out of the routine.
Rgds
Tom Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Any auto parts store that sells K&N air filters for cars will sell the recharge
kit with the cleaner and oil. The newer kit comes with the oil in an aerosol
spray - it's much easier to use than the dribble bottle.
Todd Houg
www.toddhoug.com
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [SMTP:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the airbox for
its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter cleaner spray,
which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and low (twice, and
I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and I cannot find the
stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the utility sink, because I
always clean the filter there. Something about sharing a house with 4 other
people...
I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are there
any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any suggestions
welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I suppose I can order
some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am tempted to flush with
gasoline or something similarly drastic.
Help appreciated, as always.
-Bill B
at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
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AIDe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain update (Efis lt) |
This unit is the Lite. It isn't a moving map, or anything else yet. It is a
true GPS/INS, AHRS . In the future you will be able to see a depiction on
the terrain area of the display (brown) that will be a depiction of the
terrain. Kind of wild!
I have now installed the lite and taxi tested with good results. I will
flight it this weekend and give a report. Looking pretty good in the panel.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
P M Condon wrote:
>
> Is the unit with the GPS and a moving map and terrain the EFIS Light
> ??? Have the issues that Sam Buchanon noted last month addressed ??
> How much is this unit now ?? How does it compair with the Dynon EFIS
> now...
>
> From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain update (Efis lt)
>
>
> I finally received my (one of a kind) Efis light. Greg split the case
> and display so I might customize the
> installation (smaller panel footprint). I have modified Greg's bezel,
> constructed an enclosure(smaller than Blue
> Mountains) and am installing this weekend. The unit looks terrific and
> the quality is excellent. I would plan a
> larger space, in the top middle of your panel for the light if you are
> thinking about it. Just a quarter of an inch
> horizontal and about 1/2 " vertical (more than typical space for the
> stock AG). I will post some early install
> pictures and notify list this weekend. Looks good, finally.
>
> Greg advised me last week that all units are shipping with a GPS antenna
> receiver and an easy upgrade to
> moving terrain for about $300.00. This unit just keeps getting more
> valuable!
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
I used platenuts and mounted the power supply on the aft end of the battery
box. Makes for easy access and removal if necessary. I also figured I would
need the weight forward of CG since I'm using the Odyssey 635 battery (13
lbs.) and a wood prop. Haven't done weight and balance yet, so we'll see.
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF (final assembly)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
Subject: RV-List: Whelen single power supply - placement ?
I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
Thanks,
Amit.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying -6 to Myrtle Beach |
| From: | "Donald Nowakowski" <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> |
09/17/2002 07:08:15 AM
Listers, I will be flying my -6 down to Myrtle Beach this Saturday (21st)
from Northern Vermont. I will be in the area for 1 week. I was wondering if
anybody knew of o good airport to board my plane at. Hanger space would be
nice but not a must. Is Grand Strand the best place to go? Any other
suggestions. Reply off list if you can lend any help. Thanks.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an
even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving
of any carelesness, incapacity or neglect.
---- Original author unknown, dates back to World War II
advisory.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
I failed to realize that my local auto parts store would probably carry K&N
(I checked this morning; they do). So the UPS won't be getting any overnight
freight charges from me THIS time. I suppose I was irrational after tearing
the house apart twice looking for the bottle of cleaner. Must have ended up
in the same place as my car keys, sunglasses, and half the socks I've ever
owned. Sorry to trouble the list with this silly question.
BTW, the K&N web FAQ specifically warn against gasoline cleaning... dries out
the rubber seals. Wonder if my primer leak-down does the same... I've had
avgas dripping out the FAB a time or two when I overprimed.
The filter looks dirty, is full of insects, and I just feel better cleaning
it annually, while I'm there.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
Bill,
I've used K&N filters on all my motorcycles for 20 years. I noticed that the "special"
K&N filter cleaning solution felt and smelled exactly like 409 all purpose
cleaner. I've been using 409 or Fantastic for 18 years. It works great and
doesn't seem to hurt the filter in any way.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A
Fuselage
>
>Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the airbox
for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter cleaner spray,
which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and low (twice, and
I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and I cannot find the
stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the utility sink, because
I always clean the filter there. Something about sharing a house with 4 other
people...
>
>I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are there
any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any suggestions
welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I suppose I can
order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am tempted to flush with
gasoline or something similarly drastic.
>
>Help appreciated, as always.
>
>-Bill B
>at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well.
But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit
perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame
closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that
the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I
bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side
and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame
along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the
fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion
of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the
cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin,
it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin.
Now my Question.
How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence
between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some
help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to
bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will
need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near
where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to
insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally,
how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin
is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the
frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right
rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the
turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional
bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit
bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want
to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of
the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
I have a set of metal wing jigs given to me by Mike Nellis. I will give
these to anyone who is willing to come pick them up or pay for shipping. I
am in Lexington, Ky.
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Hello all,
I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
compressed air on, or is it all filters?
Thanks
Stephanie Marshall
Pre-RV-8 co-builder
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the
airbox for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter
cleaner spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and
low (twice, and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and
I cannot find the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the
utility sink, because I always clean the filter there. Something about
sharing a house with 4 other people...
I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are
there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
Help appreciated, as always.
-Bill B
at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Line Routing |
Does anyone with an IO-360 have pictures of your fuel line routing from the
air servo up through your baffles and on to the fuel distribution block?
I've checked several websites and no one seems to have a picture of this
portion of the installation. Just looking for ideas.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
Engine Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Most auto parts stores carry K&N kits now.
-----Original Message-----
From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
[mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Hello all,
I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
compressed air on, or is it all filters?
Thanks
Stephanie Marshall
Pre-RV-8 co-builder
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the
airbox for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter
cleaner spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and
low (twice, and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and
I cannot find the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the
utility sink, because I always clean the filter there. Something about
sharing a house with 4 other people...
I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are
there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
Help appreciated, as always.
-Bill B
at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was bloodpressure) |
What you need is a droop-nose mechanism, ala the SST. :)
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - waiting on the fuse kit (with too much time on
my hands)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davefried
Subject: RV-List: View over the nose - Tailwheel aircraft (was
bloodpressure)
Has anyone come up with ideas to improve the view
over the nose while taxiing a 6?
I went for fuel the other day with an extra cushion and
the view was terrific but I couldn't close the canopy.
Scott Jackson's blood pressure kit idea got me going.
Pump it up for a better view on taxi, release the air at
the runway, lock the canopy and go flying.
Dave Fried
C-GZDF Deltafox 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Ballast for test flights |
Guess I didn't understand the goal.
Seems relevant to load to the limit if you want to test the outer limits of
CG, but is that necessary in the RV? Seems 300 lb passengers in RVs is a bit
extreme, maybe not. These planes are proven designs though and the CG
specification outlined by Van's does build in margin for safety. There have
been many flown and tested and as long as you follow the plans, extreme CG
testing should not be required. You can also measure CG with and without
passenger to ensure it falls in limits. Testing the extreme could be
dangerous too and should probably be left to a professional.
Now learning to fly is different. If your smart you'll fly with someone
before you fly your plane. Once you understand dual characteristics, solo
seems less an issue. If all the numbers make sense and you're satisfied with
solo performance, I don't think it would be irresponsible to take a
passenger. If testing with a passenger is your goal, take an experienced RV
pilot as a passenger for basic dual test flying.
I fly an RV-4, probably the most extreme case of CG shift between loaded and
solo. It does fly differently in fwd and aft loading. By the way, I did load
with weights to the calculated aft limit to ensure all worked correctly and
that I understood the flight characteristics before taking a passenger. No
other way with the -4. I don't fly a -6 but doesn't the CG remain more
centered in the envelope between loaded and solo? The difference in handling
with the RV-4 is minor for standard maneuvers with primary difference being
slow flight, trim in slow flight and a bit different feel on landing. Mostly
more sensitive to nose up so more care is expected until you become aware.
Most important is to not exceed the maximum allowed rear loading. If you're
within the required CG envelope should be no issue.
Mike Wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com [mailto:KBoatri144(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ballast for test flights
In a message dated 9/16/02 7:40:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com writes:
Any reason why an ugly bag of water won't work?
If the W&B adds up and the plane maneuvers right solo, what's gained.
Are you just trying to find the limit? What is the expected limit? >>
You're trying to find out how the plane handles with a passenger or a
passenger and baggage. It would be irresponsible to fly your entire test
period solo, then begin taking up passengers (and their baggage) before you
explore how the airplane flies when heavy or near the edges of the W/B
envelope. Believe me, there is a significant difference in how these
airplanes fly when you add 300 pounds and/or move the CG by 4-5 inches.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Thank you James,
That really doesn't answer my question though. I was asking why you need K&N
kits at all.
I use my air compressor to clean off my A/C and auto filters. Does this
damage them somehow?
Thanks
Stephanie
-----Original Message-----
From: Wilson, James Mike [mailto:james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Most auto parts stores carry K&N kits now.
-----Original Message-----
From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
[mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Hello all,
I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
compressed air on, or is it all filters?
Thanks
Stephanie Marshall
Pre-RV-8 co-builder
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the
airbox for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter
cleaner spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and
low (twice, and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow) and
I cannot find the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the
utility sink, because I always clean the filter there. Something about
sharing a house with 4 other people...
I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but are
there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
Help appreciated, as always.
-Bill B
at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
Bill,
I spray the cleaning solution on the filter liberally. Allow it to work for a
few minutes, then rinse off with warm or hot water. I will repeat this if needed.
I then leave the filter out in the sun to dry, rather than use air pressure.
Once dry, re-coat with oil. Allow the excess oil to drip off and install. Not
necessarily the only way to do it, just my way.
Charlie
>
>In a message dated 09/17/2002 10:08:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net writes:
>
>
>> I've used K&N filters on all my motorcycles for 20 years. I noticed that the
>> "special" K&N filter cleaning solution felt and smelled exactly like 409
>> all purpose cleaner. I've been using 409 or Fantastic for 18 years. It
>> works great and doesn't seem to hurt the filter in any way.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>
>Charlie, maybe this calls for an experiment... one where I clean half the
>filter with the official K&N stuff I plan to buy from Advance Auto on my
>lunch break, and half with the Formula 409 that I thought about using last
>night. OTOH, if you've used both, perhaps I'm wasting my time.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
> I fly an RV-4, probably the most extreme case of CG shift between loaded
and
> solo. It does fly differently in fwd and aft loading.
I'll second that. In the 260 hrs I've flown my RV-8 I've learned that it
just plain lands differently with bubba in the back relative to solo. Solo
it really likes to do wheel landings, and dual it naturally wants to do
3-pointers, which aren't as smooth by the way. I also use a 5 mph slower
approach speed for solo (80 mph dual, 75 mph solo).
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 262 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Fairy" <matthew.fairy(at)panamtrading.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
Stephanie,
the K&N filters are completely different structure, manufacture etc than
most automotive and AC filters they clean to a much higher degree and are
made of totally different materials not only will a compressor damage a K& N
filter but if you clean them with compressed air, there is a good chance
that all kinds of foreign matter ( no not British guys like me!) will find
their way into your precious engine - on a car or A/C that No megusta on an
aero engine NOT GOOD AT ALL!!! hope this help.
happy landings
Matthew Fairy
President
Pan American Worldwide Trading LTD.
www.panamtrading.com
125 Main Street Suite 360
Westport CT 06880
(P) 203-221-9026 (F) 203-221-9027
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
> Thank you James,
> That really doesn't answer my question though. I was asking why you need
K&N
> kits at all.
> I use my air compressor to clean off my A/C and auto filters. Does this
> damage them somehow?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wilson, James Mike [mailto:james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
>
>
> Most auto parts stores carry K&N kits now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
> [mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
>
>
> Hello all,
> I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
> filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
> compressed air on, or is it all filters?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie Marshall
> Pre-RV-8 co-builder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
> Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the
> airbox for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter
> cleaner spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and
> low (twice, and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow)
and
> I cannot find the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the
> utility sink, because I always clean the filter there. Something about
> sharing a house with 4 other people...
>
> I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but
are
> there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
> suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
> suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
> tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
>
> Help appreciated, as always.
>
> -Bill B
> at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | flying the wing - SLOW FLIGHT |
Nice. Thanks. Pls archive.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Boyd C. Braem
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 4:11 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: flying the wing - SLOW FLIGHT
>
>
>
> The RV is a unique aircraft in the slow flight envelope. How
> slow can you fly?
>
> Sam brings up a good point about "short field landing" which
> is a performance maneuver flown at minimum airspeed (1.1 to
> 1.3 Vso), carrying power and using a steeper than normal
> descent angle (not necessarily rate). The flight regime is
> performed "behind the power curve" or "in the area of
> reversed command" (a term that is really inappropriate).
> Many pilots are clearly uncomfortable in this flight
> envelope, but this is fixed with practice and it just might
> save your butt. Van has written a couple of articles, about
> this, over the years. There is a tendency to overuse
> ailerons, which become increasingly ineffective, instead of
> rudder, to control lateral flight path and to not be
> aggressive enough with the throttle to control vertical
> flight. Being able to fly vertically with different aircraft
> attitudes is as important to be able to fly horizontally.
> And, given the growth of paved, level runways with clear
> approaches and the demise of the shorter grass strips around
> the country (maybe there's a current resurgence?), I get the
> sense that some instructors don't spend much time with this
> issue other than the cursory lessons called for in the school
> syllabus. Tho, it would seem to make some sense that pilots
> in a more rural area would probably spend more time on this
> than those who learned in a more urban (towered field) area.
>
> There is a good way to practice this and Bill Marvel alluded
> to it with his description of flying (climbing) out of an
> incipient stall when giving demo rides. But, take it further
> to go both up and down. At altitude, set up for a full flap,
> power on stall and approach the stall speed slowly. Feel the
> controls and the airframe and keep the stick back to maintain
> a nose-up deck angle (probably just a little higher than
> you're used to). If the nose drops, you need a little more
> power--if the nose refuses to drop but your still maintaining
> altitude then you reduce power. What you want to do is to be
> right at the edge of stalling with a nose-up attitude, wings
> level, ball centered and carrying minimum power. Now, you
> should be able to adjust the power, maintaining the same deck
> attitude and gradually varying your power to get either a
> sink rate or a climb rate (say, -1,000 fpm to +500 fpm). The
> power needed will vary with the thrust produced by your
> prop/engine combo. Your indicated airspeed should not change
> whether you're going up or down--if it does, your deck angle
> should be higher or you need to make your power changes more
> gradual. All control inputs need to be smmoooth. But, you
> really need to get used to using the throttle because of the
> sink rate changes with the RV low aspect ratio wings. Keep
> an eye on engine temps while doing this as their isn't much
> cowling air flow.
>
> Then you can throw in some increasing angle-of-bank turns,
> aileron only, rudder only and coordinated. Again, very
> smmoooooth contol inputs.
>
> A variation of this maneuver is called the "falling leaf",
> while as you maintain a negative rate of climb, you use the
> rudder to "swing" the aircraft back and forth (right to left)
> in a gentle arc without letting a wing drop. Another
> variation is to try and fly formation with an Air Cam or
> other 55-60 KIAS aircraft.
>
> Once you're comfortable with this maneuver, the next step is
> to pick a landmark on the ground, mark its position on the
> winscreen and descend to it, keeping the landmark on the
> windscreen spot. If the landmark moves up the windscreen,
> you're flight path is short (low). You will have to variably
> lower the nose to keep the landmark spotted and to maintain
> your 1.x Vso speed (note that this is a lower deck angle than
> in the first up-and-down maneuver). Choose a descent rate
> and then maintain it with the throttle (you will actually be
> coordinating the throttle and stick simultaneously).
>
> Next is to pick two landmarks that are in line with each
> other. Aim for the upper landmark, but keep the distance
> between the two landmarks the same. (If the gap between the
> marks closes your going to land short and vice versa)
>
> Now you can go to your short field with that barn or power
> line on the approach end and line up the obstacle with the
> runway threshold, keep the gap between them the same,
> maintain 1.x Vso, control sink rate with power and smooch it
> on in. A little extra power with the flare is usually
> needed. Whether you want to 2-point or 3-point is up to you.
>
> Hope this isn't too "preachy". It's just that I'm constantly
> amazed at the steady rate of GA accidents that involve
> spin/stall--whether from experienced or inexperienced
> pilots--seasoned aerobatic pilots--all shapes and sizes. My
> only conclusion is that pilots don't spend enough time flying
> their aircraft in SLOW flight (and, of course, unusual
> attitudes--but that's another soapbox topic).
>
> Boyd
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> >
> > "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
> > >
> > > -->
> > >
> > > Maybe I'm assuming too much. Is 1200' considered a short strip?
> > > Because those are the runway lengths I go into
> frequently. 3000' is
> > > long and luxurious in my opinion. Maybe that's why my
> instructors
> > > (and myself) are hung up on three-point full-stall
> landings. I've
> > > always treated every landing as a short field landing. Power-off
> > > approach too. However I will agree with Jerry and others
> who have
> > > said you can't fly every single airplane the same as all
> the others.
> > > Every airplane requires it's own specific technique and I
> am sooooo
> > > looking forward to figuring out my -4!!
> > >
> >
> > Scott, you will get various opinions as to whether or not
> 1200' is a
> > short strip. After many, many operations from a one-way
> 1800' strip,
> > it is my opinion that 1200' is short! Yes, an RV with
> competent pilot
> > can operate out of 1200', especially if the approaches are low and
> > clear.......but you better not mess up because there isn't
> much room
> > for error.
> >
> > By the way, I think you will find that the approaches to the short
> > strips will work much better is you carry some power. You
> will be able
> > to fly the RV slower and under better control if you master
> the art of
> > flying in the vicinity of the backside of the power curve.
> Once again,
> > you need to be familiar with your plane before attempting high
> > performance landings.
> >
> > Obviously, the field elevation and temperatures are important, and
> > since you didn't mention elevation, I don't know if you are
> routinely
> > landing on a merely challenging 1200' near sea level, or a
> terrifying
> > 1200' at 5000' MSL in the heat of summer!
> >
> > I suggest you begin at the 3000' strip (you might even try
> some wheel
> > landings ) and then work toward the shorter strips. We had a
> > local RV-4 pilot (who flies his plane off his own 1800' strip) find
> > out that too much braking and lack of attention for a few
> moments on
> > an 800' strip will result in the need to straighten a prop,
> > disassemble an engine, and rebuild the wheel pants!
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | cleaning the K&N air filter |
Hi Matthew,
Thank you so much for the information! I just got my FIRST car, and believe
you me, I don't want anything else (long story...I've had the car a week and
had to put a new tranny in it :
) if you buy a used car GET A WARRANTY!!!!
Warranty=$2100 Tranny=$2500) to happen to it. Sorry for the rant, but it has
been a long week......
So use soap and water, or a cleaner.
I will tell my hubby when I get home tonight, we are starting our RV-8 in a
few months and the more info the better!
y'all have a great week!
Thank You!
Stephanie
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Fairy [mailto:matthew.fairy(at)panamtrading.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
Stephanie,
the K&N filters are completely different structure, manufacture etc than
most automotive and AC filters they clean to a much higher degree and are
made of totally different materials not only will a compressor damage a K& N
filter but if you clean them with compressed air, there is a good chance
that all kinds of foreign matter ( no not British guys like me!) will find
their way into your precious engine - on a car or A/C that No megusta on an
aero engine NOT GOOD AT ALL!!! hope this help.
happy landings
Matthew Fairy
President
Pan American Worldwide Trading LTD.
www.panamtrading.com
125 Main Street Suite 360
Westport CT 06880
(P) 203-221-9026 (F) 203-221-9027
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
> Thank you James,
> That really doesn't answer my question though. I was asking why you need
K&N
> kits at all.
> I use my air compressor to clean off my A/C and auto filters. Does this
> damage them somehow?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wilson, James Mike [mailto:james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
>
>
> Most auto parts stores carry K&N kits now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)
> [mailto:stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com]
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
>
>
> Hello all,
> I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
> filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
> compressed air on, or is it all filters?
>
> Thanks
> Stephanie Marshall
> Pre-RV-8 co-builder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: cleaning the K&N air filter
>
>
> Okay guys, this is an S.O.S. - I have my air filter liberated form the
> airbox for its annual cleaning, and I cannot find my bottle of K&N filter
> cleaner spray, which I think was TSP or similar... I have looked high and
> low (twice, and I even checked out behind the barn and under my pillow)
and
> I cannot find the stuff anywhere. I know I had it last year next to the
> utility sink, because I always clean the filter there. Something about
> sharing a house with 4 other people...
>
> I know we're not supposed to blow the bugs out with compressed air, but
are
> there any recommended substitutes for the cleaner and hot water? Any
> suggestions welcome, especially if they won't harm the cotton element. I
> suppose I can order some more, and pay UPS to overnight it here, but I am
> tempted to flush with gasoline or something similarly drastic.
>
> Help appreciated, as always.
>
> -Bill B
> at least I still have the bottle of red oil...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
Ed:
sounds like you're done. I would not be bending the frame...you'll never get
it right, and most likely only make things worse. If, when you're done, you
have a small gap between the skirt and the fuselage side, you can add a
little fiberglass to the inside of the skirt at the appropriate place to
make it snug.
George Kilishek
N888GK
80 hours
>From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-list , RV-8 List
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8
>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:10:47 -0400
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Ed OConnor
>
>I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well.
>But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit
>perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame
>closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that
>the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I
>bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side
>and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame
>along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the
>fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion
>of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the
>cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin,
>it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin.
> Now my Question.
>How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence
>between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
>the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some
>help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to
>bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will
>need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near
>where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to
>insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally,
>how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin
>is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the
>frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right
>rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the
>turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional
>bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit
>bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want
>to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of
>the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
"RV9 Group"
| Subject: | Tank Gap Revisited |
Ok, all is forgiven. The dog can come back in the house and I'll go unbury all
my tools.
I finished the right tank and had the same gap problem as on the left tank. By
this time though I had ordered some new clecoes from Avery and they hold nice
so I was dependent on trying to get all the screws in- not like the cheap ones
I bought 12 years ago from an unnamed company.
My engineering mind said aha- a systemic problem affecting two tanks, not a simple
mistake.
The only thing I could see is a little extra pro-seal on the inside of the tank
skin that fits against the splice piece to the rest of the leading edge skin.
I popped that bad boy out and bingo- the tank settled nicely in place and all
the screw holes lined up. A few minutes with a wire wheel and I'm back in business.
My learnings- when making the pro-seal fillet for the end rib be a lot more cautious
then I was. I had actually used painter's tape to protect all the areas
I didn't want pro-seal. I just didn't tape in far enough.
Take the splice piece off before using the spar to hold the tank to dry in any
case.
Get advice from the list before taking a sledge hammer to a rather expensive and
time consuming piece.
Get quick build tanks next time.
(just kidding on the last one- I think)
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
I agree, the key is to add material to the skirt to make it fit the fuse. I
would definitely call Van's before bending the frame. Another builder in
town that I talked to last weekend told me he had to shim up the track the
canopy rail rides in. I think this would be a better idea. than bending the
frame to get clearance.
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Sally and George"
>
>Ed:
>
>sounds like you're done. I would not be bending the frame...you'll never get
>it right, and most likely only make things worse. If, when you're done, you
>have a small gap between the skirt and the fuselage side, you can add a
>little fiberglass to the inside of the skirt at the appropriate place to
>make it snug.
>
>George Kilishek
>N888GK
>80 hours
>
>
>>From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
>>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: RV-list , RV-8 List
>>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8
>>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:10:47 -0400
>>
>>--> RV8-List message posted by: Ed OConnor
>>
>>I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well.
>>But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit
>>perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame
>>closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that
>>the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I
>>bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side
>>and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame
>>along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the
>>fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion
>>of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the
>>cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin,
>>it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin.
>> Now my Question.
>>How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence
>>between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
>>the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some
>>help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to
>>bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will
>>need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near
>>where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to
>>insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally,
>>how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin
>>is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the
>>frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right
>>rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the
>>turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional
>>bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit
>>bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want
>>to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of
>>the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
I need information from experienced IFR pilots about the Nav-Aid wing leveler.
Would you buy it again. If you haven't fought the airplane not seeing the wingtips
in turbulence and rain while trying to find something on a map or tune
in frequency's, please don't respond. Better yet, just e-mail me off line at
JimNolan(at)kconline.com . You're input would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
Jim Nolan wrote:
>
>
> I need information from experienced IFR pilots about the Nav-Aid wing leveler.
Would you buy it again. If you haven't fought the airplane not seeing the
wingtips in turbulence and rain while trying to find something on a map or tune
in frequency's, please don't respond. Better yet, just e-mail me off line at
JimNolan(at)kconline.com . You're input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> Warsaw, In.
>
Jim, I am IFR rated (semi-experienced, I suppose) and have never flown
in IMC in my Navaid-equipped RV-6...........but I am going to reply to
the list anyway. ;-)
I have used the Navaid in everything from very light "bobbles" to
rockin' and rollin' turbulence. While the Navaid does a pretty good job
of counteracting roll excursions due to moderate turbulence, the problem
with the RV-6 is its inherently weak yaw stability. It seems the
vertical stab/rudder on the RV-6 is just not large enough for full
dampening of the yaw induced by rolling resulting from turbulence. This
is usually camouflaged by a competent pilot's hands/feet on the
stick/pedals, but if you release the stick, stop using the rudder
pedals, and turn the plane over to the Navaid in turbulence, you are
going to see/feel the plane enter some pretty substantial yawing motions
along with the rolling back and forth as the wing leveler work against
the turbulence. And.....if left alone, the motions seem to
self-perpetuate to some degree.
Keep in mind I am not describing a dangerous situation, just a ride that
is, shall we say......active. Also, this is not due to shortcomings of
the Navaid, but the RV-6 airframe with the original small tail.
There have been many times I have tried to use the Navaid in turbulence
while fiddling with GPS's or charts, but the yawing (Dutch Rolls) that
results from leaving the plane strictly to the Navaid is just more
uncomfortable than a passenger (and the pilot!) can enjoy. The newer RV
models with the RV-8 tail probably are not as prone to this behavior, so
if you are flying an -8/-A, -9A, -7/-A, or a very late model RV-6/-A,
then you may not recognize what I am describing.
Having said that, I wouldn't hesitate to put comfort on the back burner
if the wing leveler was necessary to facilitate radio tuning or chart
reading......but it would be an interesting ride! :-)
This probably didn't answer your question, but other builders may find
this discussion interesting. And yes, I REALLY like my Navaid! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic, 420 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Routing |
I ran mine up the rear of the engine, resting between the left magneto and
the engine. It goes up to the rear baffle, goes through the rear baffle and
follows the centerline to the fuel spider. It looks pretty clean and is way
from the exhaust. My installation is probably different than yours. My fuel
line to the spider exits at front left side of the fuel servo. To do this
and to get clearance from the mixture control arm I had to weld a special 90
degree fitting. It was a pain but it turned out nice.
I think I can dig up a picture if you need one.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
RV-8 IO-360-B1E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Line Routing
>
> Does anyone with an IO-360 have pictures of your fuel line routing from
the
> air servo up through your baffles and on to the fuel distribution block?
> I've checked several websites and no one seems to have a picture of this
> portion of the installation. Just looking for ideas.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
> Engine Stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
Ed:
I am not too far from cutting out a section of the aft skirt on both sides of
my 8A and redoing the fiberglass layup to better fit the fuselage. In the 130
hours I have flown the plane, I have done several things to temporarily stop
the draft that comes in back there, but I think only fixing the contour and
adding some realistic seals will do the job. Like you, I tried as much as I
could to get the frame to fit better, bending it with muscle power as the plans
say. There is just so much you can do that way. I talked to Gus at Van's
about this and he said there is no "approved solution" for taking care of it.
FWIW, I looked at most of the 8s and 8As at the homecoming and noted that
almost everyone had some temporary solution cobbled up to seal the gap between
the skirt and turtledeck aft of the slider block crossbar. This is an ongoing
problem. Just put it on as best as you can and expect to do some custom
modification of the skirt later. As I said, I will eventually cut out a large
section and lay it up new with the fuselage as the mold.
Bill Marvel
Ed OConnor wrote:
>
> I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well.
> But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit
> perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame
> closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that
> the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I
> bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side
> and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame
> along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the
> fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion
> of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the
> cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin,
> it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin.
> Now my Question.
> How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence
> between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
> the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some
> help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to
> bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will
> need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near
> where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to
> insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally,
> how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin
> is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the
> frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right
> rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the
> turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional
> bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit
> bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want
> to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of
> the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks
>
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
Ed:
As to the frame, it certainly cannot contact any part of the fuselage at any
time. You have to do whatever is needed to prevent that. I have about 1/8
inch clearance on each side between the turtledeck and the frame at the point
that the slider crosspiece joins the frame perimeter tubes. This is in the
closed position and is about the closest point I can find between frame and
skin.
As to the skirt, I am not too far from cutting out a section of the aft skirt
on both sides of my 8A and redoing the fiberglass layup to better fit the
fuselage. In the 130 hours I have flown the plane, I have done several things
to temporarily stop the draft that comes in back there, but I think only fixing
the contour and adding some realistic seals will do the job. Like you, I tried
as much as I could to get the frame to fit better, bending it with muscle power
as the plans say. There is just so much you can do that way. I talked to Gus
at Van's about this and he said there is no "approved solution" for taking care
of it. FWIW, I looked at most of the 8s and 8As at the homecoming and noted
that almost everyone had some temporary solution cobbled up to seal the gap
between the skirt and turtledeck aft of the slider block crossbar. This is an
ongoing problem. Just put it on as best as you can and expect to do some
custom modification of the skirt later. As I said, I will eventually cut out a
large section and lay it up new with the fuselage as the mold. I see no other
realistic way of making it fit better. My gap between the aft skirt and the
skin is about 3/8 inch on each side at the widest point.
Bill Marvel
Ed OConnor wrote:
>
> Any advise about how much clearence
> between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
> the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
So Cal RV Group
| Subject: | RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
cooling ramp on the belly? I have 130 hours or so on my 8A QB and just
noted a crack starting at a rivet on the mid-ramp cross stiffener and
propagating both fore and aft. I stop drilled it and started tapping
around the ramp to investigate its structure. Since I did not build
this part in the QB kit, I had not previously noticed that it was not
very stiff structurally and could easily get beaten to death by exhaust
pulses. It is supported only at the forward and aft ends and has
stiffeners along both sides as well as the one I metioned in the
center. However, these stiffeners are not attached to anything but the
ramp, which evidently vibrates with exhaust pulses. I removed the hinge
pin, bent the ramp down as much as I could without kinking it, and put
in some of the 1/4 inch aluminum backed self-adhesive foam that Spruce
sells. I did the same on the bottom side of the cockpit floor above the
ramp. This tended to stiffen the ramp skin noticeably, but I don't know
if it is enough to prevent future cracking, given its location and what
it has to endure. Any other instances of this? Did not find anything
in the archives.
Bill Marvel
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832
7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballast for test flights |
Buy some buckshot from you local sport shop. It comes in 25# bags and is
easy to deal with in 25# increments.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Gap Revisited |
I'm not sure how different the other RV models are in the tank area but
my solution when building my -6A tanks was to fit the tanks to the spar
immediately after closing them. I kept them from bonding the spar by
covering it with a film of saran wrap. When the proseal set, the tank
conformed exactly to the spar; no need for the innumerable clamps along
the aft edges or to trim excess globs of proseal to get the tanks to
seat.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - waiting on Godot (or my fuselage, whichever
comes first)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Hoffman
Subject: RV-List: Tank Gap Revisited
Ok, all is forgiven. The dog can come back in the house and I'll go
unbury all my tools.
I finished the right tank and had the same gap problem as on the left
tank. By this time though I had ordered some new clecoes from Avery and
they hold nice so I was dependent on trying to get all the screws in-
not like the cheap ones I bought 12 years ago from an unnamed company.
My engineering mind said aha- a systemic problem affecting two tanks,
not a simple mistake.
The only thing I could see is a little extra pro-seal on the inside of
the tank skin that fits against the splice piece to the rest of the
leading edge skin. I popped that bad boy out and bingo- the tank settled
nicely in place and all the screw holes lined up. A few minutes with a
wire wheel and I'm back in business.
My learnings- when making the pro-seal fillet for the end rib be a lot
more cautious then I was. I had actually used painter's tape to protect
all the areas I didn't want pro-seal. I just didn't tape in far enough.
Take the splice piece off before using the spar to hold the tank to dry
in any case.
Get advice from the list before taking a sledge hammer to a rather
expensive and time consuming piece.
Get quick build tanks next time.
(just kidding on the last one- I think)
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Framf/RV-8 |
Hello Yall
Getting the frame to fit well is the first step to nice fitting canopy.
There should be no frame to fuselage contact or the need to put something
between the two to prevent it. If the rear of the cross bow can not be bent
into shape maybe it needs to cut off at the weld and lengthened or
shortened. On my frame the rear bow was not symetrical on both sides which
put the rear apex of the bow uncentered over the rail. The weld where the
right bow tube slides into the main tube was cut then the rear bow was slid
further into the main tube and rewelded. It would be nice if every frame fit
every fuselage,
but I feel that things like this should be expected on occasion.
I feel it is acceptable to have a slight gap, approx 1/16", between the .040
strips and the fuselage. The trick to a nice look is to keep this gap even
over the length of the to rail on both sides of the fuselage. To take up the
slight gap at the sides I sliced the entire bottom 1/2 inch (as neccessary)
of the skirt. This slice is made 95% thru the fiberglass making a hinge.
This long 1/2 inch strip can now be pushed down onto the fuselage and
reglassed into position. This will give a nice tight seal at the sides.
The rear of the skirt is the tough area to get a good fit. To keep even
skirt thinkness I found it easier to completely cut or slice the existing
skirt where neccessary, more than a dozen places on my plane, and reglassing
it all back together. When done the skirt should lightly touch the fuselage
at all points when closed. After painting a strip of adhesive felt can then
be applied to the inside of the skirt as a seal and paint protector. This
will give a leak free fit.
Do not be too anal with the frame, but it does need to be close. The real
work will begin with the skirt.
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX, 145+hours
> I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well.
> But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit
> perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame
> closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that
> the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I
> bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side
> and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame
> along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the
> fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion
> of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the
> cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck
skin,
> it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage
skin.
> Now my Question.
> How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence
> between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when
> the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some
> help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to
> bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will
> need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near
> where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to
> insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally,
> how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin
> is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the
> frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the
right
> rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the
> turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional
> bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit
> bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but
want
> to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex
of
> the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning the K&N air filter |
In a message dated 9/17/2002 9:54:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com writes:
> I have a silly question, I have always used compressed air to clean my air
> filters. Is it just this type of filter that you aren't supposed to use
> compressed air on, or is it all filters?
The K&N people specifically caution against the use of compressed air
exposure, as their filter media is gauze fabric that can be blown apart,
creating local areas of coarser than normal mesh.
I believe that their caution is justified in order to get the best filtration
you can. Normal water pressure as it falls from the tap is sufficient to
rinse these filters from the inside out if an appropriate mineral oil
emulsifying solvent (as recommended) is applied and allowed to soak in well.
Then sling out most of the water, allow to dry naturally for a day or so and
apply new K&N oil evenly via spray can. The media can last virtually forever
if this is done properly every time you clean. In practice, I have replaced
mine around the third yearly cleaning and always keep a spare I can cycle in.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 566hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
>
>Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
>cooling ramp on the belly? I have 130 hours or so on my 8A QB and just
>noted a crack starting at a rivet on the mid-ramp cross stiffener and
>propagating both fore and aft. I stop drilled it and started tapping
>around the ramp to investigate its structure. Since I did not build
>this part in the QB kit, I had not previously noticed that it was not
>very stiff structurally and could easily get beaten to death by exhaust
>pulses. It is supported only at the forward and aft ends and has
>stiffeners along both sides as well as the one I metioned in the
>center. However, these stiffeners are not attached to anything but the
>ramp, which evidently vibrates with exhaust pulses. I removed the hinge
>pin, bent the ramp down as much as I could without kinking it, and put
>in some of the 1/4 inch aluminum backed self-adhesive foam that Spruce
>sells. I did the same on the bottom side of the cockpit floor above the
>ramp. This tended to stiffen the ramp skin noticeably, but I don't know
>if it is enough to prevent future cracking, given its location and what
>it has to endure. Any other instances of this? Did not find anything
>in the archives.
>
>Bill Marvel
>
Bill,
I have no cracks down in that area, but did a similar thing as you did with
some acoustical/thermal insulation. I bought a roll of the foil backed
fibrous mat material advertised as firewall insulation from the aviation
department at Pep Boys. I mainly did this for sound and thermal insulation,
which it does provide somewhat. Maybe I installed the stuff soon enough to
save the ramp from any cracks. The only failure of any kind on the rest of
the airframe has been one inboard hinge rivet on the bottom of the cowl at
the firewall on the right side. Pretty common failure with RV's.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
If Tom Brandon is still on this mailing list, please contact me
directly. The email address that I have for him seems to be out of
date. Sorry for the interruption...regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings, Fuselage Ordered"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
Jim, in one of the recent RV-ators, Van himself confessed that with over
10,000 hours traveling across the country, he had his engineering team
install a NAV-AID. He flew with it and confessed that he liked it and
should have installed one sooner.( Not an exact quote, but closs
enough). Mike Seager, just last week told me that he uses his on long
cross countries but that does not mean that RV's are the best IFR
platform. Mike has some well learned experiences and offers his feelings
on hard IFR in a RV. I think an e-mail to Mike on this subject is well
worth the effort. Bottom line, depends on your use of your aircraft.
With the twitchy-ness....er.... I mean responsive-ness of the RV's maybe
it might be a good idea. I plan to fly my RV and someday put a NAV-AID
in, but I want a Dynon-d10 EFIS, a paint job........point being its on
the purchase list too.
IFR Pilots Nav-Aid
From: "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: RV-List: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid
I need information from experienced IFR pilots about the Nav-Aid wing
leveler. Would you buy it again. If you
haven't fought the airplane not seeing the wingtips in turbulence and
rain while trying to find something on a map
or tune in frequency's, please don't respond. Better yet, just e-mail me
off line at JimNolan(at)kconline.com .
You're input would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Baines" <BBaines(at)led.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | RV4 Wings and partial embenage for sale (Vancouver BC) |
This is not an easy message to post.
Change in situation has forced me to consider selling my RV-4 project.
Everything has been in storage in a hanger in Langley. The wings and
most of the empenage are available (The HS was damaged during a move,
and must be rebuilt).
As for the wings, Both wings were in the jig, all ribs attached to spars
(not riveted yet) and many if the skins have been drilled. Basically the
wings are in a state where someone could take over, knowing what they
have to work with, and could move forward with the project.
Jig parts are included, and a landing light kit is included. All
supplied parts, fasteners, drawings, and my builder's log will go with
the package.
I am an AME (not a structures AME) but I have sheet metal training. Have
had some complements on the workmanship -- but you be the judge.
Asking $2200.00 Cdn. Motivated to sell before end of September. Have to
move out of the hanger.
Thanks
Bill Baines
BBaines(at)led.bc.ca
Cell 604-220-1128
Bill Baines Phone 604 602 0281
Transport Canada Delegate DAR 312 Cell 604 220 1128
Newbrighton Avionics Design Services Fax 604 602 9239
Box27 Newbrighton BBaines(at)led.bc.ca
RR3 Gibsons, VE7FML
BC, Canada, V0N 1V0
Newbrighton Avionics Design Services
Bill Baines Phone 604 602 0281
Transport Canada Delegate DAR 312 Cell 604 220 1128
Newbrighton Avionics Design Services Fax 604 602 9239
Box27 Newbrighton BBaines(at)led.bc.ca
RR3 Gibsons, VE7FML
BC, Canada, V0N 1V0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall(at)hp.com> |
Hello Mr. Grajek,
Metal wing jigs for what RV?
Thanks
Stephanie
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com]
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: Free Wing Jigs
I have a set of metal wing jigs given to me by Mike Nellis. I will give
these to anyone who is willing to come pick them up or pay for shipping. I
am in Lexington, Ky.
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill, I'm not flying yet so maybe my technique doesn't have much merit at this
point. But what I did was to permanently install the ramp by using a piece of
.032 angle at the aft end (instead of the hinge called out in the plans--didn't
see any reason to make it removeable). Along both sides of the ramp I gooped
a bead of proseal and smoothed it out to form a fillet running the full length
of each side of the ramp. Proseal grips pretty well and it feels very sturdy
when pushing on it--no movement anywhere. But only in 20 years when I'm flying
will I be able to tell you how it's holding up....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D eternally finishing....
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
So Cal RV Group
Subject: RV-List: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking
Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
cooling ramp on the belly? I have 130 hours or so on my 8A QB and just
noted a crack starting at a rivet on the mid-ramp cross stiffener and
propagating both fore and aft. I stop drilled it and started tapping
around the ramp to investigate its structure. Since I did not build
this part in the QB kit, I had not previously noticed that it was not
very stiff structurally and could easily get beaten to death by exhaust
pulses. It is supported only at the forward and aft ends and has
stiffeners along both sides as well as the one I metioned in the
center. However, these stiffeners are not attached to anything but the
ramp, which evidently vibrates with exhaust pulses. I removed the hinge
pin, bent the ramp down as much as I could without kinking it, and put
in some of the 1/4 inch aluminum backed self-adhesive foam that Spruce
sells. I did the same on the bottom side of the cockpit floor above the
ramp. This tended to stiffen the ramp skin noticeably, but I don't know
if it is enough to prevent future cracking, given its location and what
it has to endure. Any other instances of this? Did not find anything
in the archives.
Bill Marvel
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832
7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
Jim--
Let me preface this with the comment that anyone who wants to fly serious weather
IFR, single pilot, single engine and without de-ice gear (save for a heated
pitot tube) could be a seriously deranged individual : ) or else was ordered
to do it in the military.
The flight characteristics that make RV's such fun to fly do impede on its mission
as a stable IFR platform. The main problem being the coupled roll/yaw and
its low wing loading. Tho, truth is, I suspect that RV pilots have a tendency
to fly faster then Va when in turbulence, which will exacerbate the problem.
The Navaid was designed and built as a VFR wing-leveler that can follow a VOR heading/GPS
track. It's response rate in turbulence is limited and can be further
degraded if following a "weak" VOR signal (it can have a tendency to "hunt"
around the VOR heading). It is a very nice, inexpensive, older technology unit
in VFR and mild, brief IFR conditions (the manufacturer warns
against using the unit in IMC). For serious weather flying on a more than occasional
basis I would want an auto pilot with altitude sensing and a yaw damper
(TruTrac's DFC 300, for example, and only $11,000).
Boyd
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Jim Nolan wrote:
> >
> >
> > I need information from experienced IFR pilots about the Nav-Aid wing leveler.
Would you buy it again. If you haven't fought the airplane not seeing the
wingtips in turbulence and rain while trying to find something on a map or
tune in frequency's, please don't respond. Better yet, just e-mail me off line
at JimNolan(at)kconline.com . You're input would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> > Warsaw, In.
> >
>
> Jim, I am IFR rated (semi-experienced, I suppose) and have never flown
> in IMC in my Navaid-equipped RV-6...........but I am going to reply to
> the list anyway. ;-)
>
> I have used the Navaid in everything from very light "bobbles" to
> rockin' and rollin' turbulence. While the Navaid does a pretty good job
> of counteracting roll excursions due to moderate turbulence, the problem
> with the RV-6 is its inherently weak yaw stability. It seems the
> vertical stab/rudder on the RV-6 is just not large enough for full
> dampening of the yaw induced by rolling resulting from turbulence. This
> is usually camouflaged by a competent pilot's hands/feet on the
> stick/pedals, but if you release the stick, stop using the rudder
> pedals, and turn the plane over to the Navaid in turbulence, you are
> going to see/feel the plane enter some pretty substantial yawing motions
> along with the rolling back and forth as the wing leveler work against
> the turbulence. And.....if left alone, the motions seem to
> self-perpetuate to some degree.
>
> Keep in mind I am not describing a dangerous situation, just a ride that
> is, shall we say......active. Also, this is not due to shortcomings of
> the Navaid, but the RV-6 airframe with the original small tail.
>
> There have been many times I have tried to use the Navaid in turbulence
> while fiddling with GPS's or charts, but the yawing (Dutch Rolls) that
> results from leaving the plane strictly to the Navaid is just more
> uncomfortable than a passenger (and the pilot!) can enjoy. The newer RV
> models with the RV-8 tail probably are not as prone to this behavior, so
> if you are flying an -8/-A, -9A, -7/-A, or a very late model RV-6/-A,
> then you may not recognize what I am describing.
>
> Having said that, I wouldn't hesitate to put comfort on the back burner
> if the wing leveler was necessary to facilitate radio tuning or chart
> reading......but it would be an interesting ride! :-)
>
> This probably didn't answer your question, but other builders may find
> this discussion interesting. And yes, I REALLY like my Navaid! :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic, 420 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
I ran a bead of proseal along each side sealing the ramp to the fuselage
before I painted the fuselage.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q N88MJ 87 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 V Speeds or Operational Speeds |
I am getting real close to flying my RV-4 for the first time. Hopefully by
the end of October (I'm flying with Mike Seager for 4 days in Mid October)!!
I would like to hear from other RV-4 flyers what V-speeds they have found for
their plane. I know each plane is different and I need to determine each for
my plane, but I wanted something to start with on the first couple of
flights. I have searched the archives with no luck. The speeds I'm looking
for are:
Vx Best angle of climb
Vy Best Rate of climb
Vso Stall dirty
Vs1 stall clean
Va Maneuvering speed
White arc
Green arc
yellow arc
Vne never exceed
If you have any or all of these, I'd love to see what you are finding. Also,
the empty weight of your plane!
Thanks to all that reply!
-Mike Kraus RV-4
N223RV
Tanks full, battery charged, awaiting certification
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Flight Preparation |
I am getting close to flying my RV-4 for the first time. I am reading the
book "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" and the FAA publication on homebuilt
aircraft registering and test flying, but was looking for advice on other
items to check prior to flight and to look at during the flight test phase.
I am sure others have some good advice on what they would do differently, or
what they did right and were extremely pleased with.
Any advice for my first flight would be GREATLY appreciated!
P.S. - I am flying to Oregon to fly with Mike Seager for 4 days next month, I
figured it was a great idea and a good way to see Van's factory and the
progress on the RV-10 (which I already have $ saved for the empannage kit!)
-Mike Kraus
N223RV, awaiting first flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
> I need information from experienced IFR pilots about the Nav-Aid
> wing leveler. Would you buy it again. If you haven't fought the
> airplane not seeing the wingtips in turbulence and rain while
> trying to find something on a map or tune in frequency's, please
> don't respond.
Would I buy it again? Absolutely. Good value for the money.
IFR: I use my Navaid IFR all the time. I couple the navaid to the GPS
course or GPS derived track. Just tonight I flew from Chicago to
Manassas, with about 30 minutes IMC (got up to FL190 trying to top
some TRWs ... it's COLD up there when you're wearing shorts!). On
the descent I was IMC in some light turbulence, using the Navaid.
The Navaid does a great job in smooth air, and an acceptable job in
light turbulence. The RV-6's dutch roll tendancy (roll couples to yaw)
makes turbulence uncomfortable for some folks, and the Navaid's
single axis control doesn't dampen it like a person using stick and
rudder. So if I have passengers I'll usually hand fly the rough spots.
The Navaid is invaluable when you're tired, looking for maps, flipping
for approach plates, plugging in the multi-waypoint STAR, etc. Of
course, if you have the $$$ you can get a more expensive autopilot
and have altitude control.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
> The Navaid is invaluable when you're tired, looking for maps, flipping
> for approach plates, plugging in the multi-waypoint STAR, etc. Of
> course, if you have the $$$ you can get a more expensive autopilot
> and have altitude control.
> Tim
Didn't I hear somewhere that there was a device that coupled the Navaid to
the electric trim to provide altitude hold?
Albert Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wing Kit For Sale |
I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with superb
workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys project in
order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit since I have a QB
kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all parts are included.
Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will sell for $2900 + shipping.
I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the materials to build it.
Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello RV list..it's been a little while. Life over the past year has been..well
interesting. The
last part of which has brought me from Orlando to Denver. I would like to get
involved in the
builder group here and am likely looking for some hanger space in which to build....so
if you're
one of the Denver types..send me an email please.
Bill Shook
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
Don,
One of the best forums I attended at Oshkosh, this year, was Prep for
1st flight, given by the EAA. I will list from my notes, some of the
things he said.
Local tech rep has materials on 1st flight prep. Talk to him.
20% of ALL homebuilt accidents come on their 1st 2 flights. AND it's not
mechanical. It's mostly pilot problems.
Invite the local fire department to come see your plane before the 1st
flight and then again for the flight.
Alert first aid squad, the same way. Bonding helps when the chips are
down.
Walk the airport, the way some Indy racers do before the race. Plan your
options.
Fly only in "cones of safety".
Have someone on ground with hand held.
1. You have short notes (checklist) for handling various
emergencies. They have detailed list to read you. You say 'FIRE",
they start reading the FIRE details.
2. Notice and report, take off speed, to ground person. They can
remind you of it when it comes time to land. Add to it for safety. Never
go below it.
This is particularly helpful if you don't get to do stalls
before landing.
Get with a good instructor and fly the same kind of plane you intend to
'test'.
If you are going to wear helmets and fire suits and gloves and chutes,
start wearing and flying with them, well in advance. Things are
different with that stuff on.
Eliminate as many 'new experiences' from your 1st flight as you can.
That covers a lot of ground.
"Currency" is more than 3 takeoffs and landings.
Be able to find all controls and switches blindfolded. If you have
smoke, it will be like being blind.
Plan for all emergencies.
Write down your person minimums and show and tell them to everyone. They
will help you curb your appetite 'to go'.
1st flight frequency is 123.45.
Low speed taxi:
1. gear attached?
2. brakes dragging? Don't overheat them!
When ever you are in the plane, be prepared for flight!
They did not think much of high speed taxi work. It too often becomes
1st flight.
If you don't need flaps to take off, don't use them on 1st flight. Just
another thing that could go wrong.
Chase plane not really a good idea. Do only if the chaser has lots of
experience at it and then, keep him well above you (out of your way).
After takeoff, continue down the runway as long as there is one under
you. You might need it.
Don't think about turning till at least 500 feet from the ground.
Climb to 3 times pattern altitude for your testing.
Test pattern speeds. Do a pretend landing. Do it twice before landing.
1st power reduction should be at altitude. Your greatest chance of an
engine problem is when you touch the controls.
"Reduce grip pressure"!
That's the 1st flight according to the EAA.
2nd Flight:
NOT THE SAME DAY AS THE 1ST! 1st flight takes a lot out of you.
Generally the same as the 1st.
Fly with full fuel. While fuel burns, partial tanks can explode.
2 mistakes that cause problems.
1. Changing the manufacturer's fuel system.
2. Changing " " harness mounting system.
Please keep in mind that these are my notes, not Gospel. Get this info
from the source (EAA).
Barry Pote RV9a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv8driver <rv8tor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Wing Kit For Sale |
I'd be interested in seeing your pics. Can you send or post them?
Thanks,
kevin
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>
>I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with
>superb workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys
>project in order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit
>since I have a QB kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure
>all parts are included. Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I
>will sell for $2900 + shipping. I will build a crate to ship it if
>you pay for the materials to build it. Located in Tampa, FL. 813-
>318-9074
>
>
>_-
>
>====================================================================
>_-
>
>====================================================================
>messages.
>_-
>
>====================================================================
>http://www.matronics.com/ _-
>
>====================================================================
>=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Can someone point me in the direction to the location (in the plans) where it calls
out the rivet type when attaching the F602 to the top longeron.
Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
Austin, TX
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Can someone point me in the direction to the location (in the plans) where it calls
out the rivet type when attaching the F602 to the top longeron.
Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
Austin, TX
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flylow38(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pilot emergency chutes for sale |
>2 Pilot Emergency Chutes For Sale. Used in my RV4 for 6 months. Very
>compact.
> > Chute 1 is a Red 26' foot Micro Softie with Quick release buckles.$550.00
Lowered from $750.00. MFG. June-1988, it is a STRONG Mid Lite 26' canopy
>The container is a Micro Softie and was MFG. May 1989. It was used a few
>times in 1993 but thats about it except for my occasional use last year.
>
> > Chute 2 is a Blue with red trim National backpack 360 with sheepskin
>padding.>The National 360 was MFG. Dec. 1985. 24' Phantom Canopy.
> > WAS $575.00 now $450.00>Both chutes were repacked last year and are in
excellent >condition.> > Located in Southern California. I Paid $1450.00 for
both, I will sell for
>$950 for both. Buyer Pays shipping. Located in Southern California, I can
meet possibly half way to pick up depending on distance.
> > Contact Will Whiteside 818-359-1106 whiteside(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flylow38(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pilot emergency chutes for sale |
>2 Pilot Emergency Chutes For Sale. Used in my RV4 for 6 months. Very
>compact.
> > Chute 1 is a Red 26' foot Micro Softie with Quick release buckles.$550.00
Lowered from $750.00. MFG. June-1988, it is a STRONG Mid Lite 26' canopy
>The container is a Micro Softie and was MFG. May 1989. It was used a few
>times in 1993 but thats about it except for my occasional use last year.
>
> > Chute 2 is a Blue with red trim National backpack 360 with sheepskin
>padding.>The National 360 was MFG. Dec. 1985. 24' Phantom Canopy.
> > WAS $575.00 now $450.00>Both chutes were repacked last year and are in
excellent >condition.> > Located in Southern California. I Paid $1450.00 for
both, I will sell for
>$950 for both. Buyer Pays shipping. Located in Southern California, I can
meet possibly half way to pick up depending on distance.
> > Contact Will Whiteside 818-359-1106 whiteside(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flylow38(at)aol.com |
>2 Pilot Emergency Chutes For Sale. Used in my RV4 for 6 months. Very
>compact.
> > Chute 1 is a Red 26' foot Micro Softie with Quick release buckles.$550.00
Lowered from $750.00. MFG. June-1988, it is a STRONG Mid Lite 26' canopy
>The container is a Micro Softie and was MFG. May 1989. It was used a few
>times in 1993 but thats about it except for my occasional use last year.
>
> > Chute 2 is a Blue with red trim National backpack 360 with sheepskin
>padding.>The National 360 was MFG. Dec. 1985. 24' Phantom Canopy.
> > WAS $575.00 now $450.00>Both chutes were repacked last year and are in
excellent >condition.> > Located in Southern California. I Paid $1450.00 for
both, I will sell for
>$950 for both. Buyer Pays shipping. Located in Southern California, I can
meet possibly half way to pick up depending on distance.
> > Contact Will Whiteside 818-359-1106 whiteside(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Pilots Nav-Aid |
>
>For serious weather flying on a more than occasional basis I would want an
>auto pilot with altitude sensing and a yaw damper (TruTrac's DFC 300, for
>example, and only $11,000).
Or just leave the RV in the hangar and take the King Air.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Kit For Sale |
| From: | "William Allen (Volt)" <a-wallen(at)microsoft.com> |
I would be interested in the pic's. Is this your first project or have
you built before? How long ago did you purchase this wing and how long
have you been working on it? I assume that all the RV8 wings are match
holed...am I correct?
Thanks,
-Will
-----Original Message-----
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com [mailto:Speedy11(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Wing Kit For Sale
I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with
superb
workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys project in
order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit since I have a
QB
kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all parts are included.
Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will sell for $2900 +
shipping.
I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the materials to build
it.
Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for Seattle area RV8 builder/flyers |
| From: | "William Allen (Volt)" <a-wallen(at)microsoft.com> |
Sorry for the post to those who don't live in the Seattle area.
I'm looking at building an RV8 and would love to meet some people in my
local area who are flying RV8's and wouldn't mind showing me their plane
as well as answer some of my questions regarding this task I'm about to
take on. I live in North Bend and currently fly out of KRNT. I'm down
there quite a bit lately working on more ratings, license's and what
ever else I can fool them into giving me ;-) I'm especially interested
in any one who is using their plane for Aerobatics and/or IFR, and I
don't mean at the same time :-)! Anyone who will talk to me reply
directly to me.
Thanks!
-Will Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: flight instruction in a RV |
This was sent to me directly, but I think he meant to post it via a larger
forum.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
>From: dario l toffenetti <dargintoff(at)juno.com>
>To: akroguy(at)hotmail.com
>Subject: flight instruction in a RV
>Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 23:28:29 -0600
>
>Howdy!!Am one of the happy builders of RVs in the El Paso region an
>several have take like they would like some time in an RV before they
>take there own up for a first time. Now that the law has changed where
>one can instruct in an experimental like aircraft we wonder if it could
>be let known that there a some in this area who would like to partake in
>a few hours etc etc etc. Perhaps though your efforts you could publish
>same..Appreciate your efforts,we will be driving in from El Paso,hope in
>another six months I could be able to fly up..Im a Volunteer at the War
>Eagle Air Museum,we will be ready for you and thanks for the plug. Dario
>Toffenetti RV 7A. Any instuctor in the area--East or West could contact
>me- I will pass the word along..
>Dargintoff(at)Juno.com
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
Howdy List-
Have been prop-shopping and am looking for fotos (or links to fotos) of
Catto, Sterba, Warke, Aymar, Props Inc., Walker or anyone else you folks
might recommend. They all make great props (just ask them!) and all
perform "around Vans #'s (just ask them!) so it almost boils down to how
cool they look parked on the nose. If you've got pictures or links
showing these props for (or installed on) an O-320 RV, please send them
to me off-list.
Thanks from the PossumWorks
Mark - canopy almost done- need to get forward of the firewall! - do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Kit For Sale |
>
>I would be interested in the pic's. Is this your first project or have
>you built before? How long ago did you purchase this wing and how long
>have you been working on it? I assume that all the RV8 wings are match
>holed...am I correct?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Will
>
The RV-8 wing kits only became match holed recently. The original
kits had prepunched skins, but most of the underlying structure had
to be drilled to fit the skins.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for Seattle area RV8 builder/flyers |
| From: | "William Allen (Volt)" <a-wallen(at)microsoft.com> |
Sorry for the post to those who don't live in the Seattle area.
I'm looking at building an RV8 and would love to meet some people in my
local area who are flying RV8's and wouldn't mind showing me their plane
as well as answer some of my questions regarding this task I'm about to
take on. I live in North Bend and currently fly out of KRNT. I'm down
there quite a bit lately working on more ratings, license's and what
ever else I can fool them into giving me ;-) I'm especially interested
in any one who is using their plane for Aerobatics and/or IFR, and I
don't mean at the same time :-)! Anyone who will talk to me reply
directly to me.
Thanks!
-Will Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
Mike I just flew my RV-4 for the first time last Friday. It was a fantastic
experience and I found the plane a joy to fly after I got over the initial
shock of the takeoff -- it moves out very briskly and climbs like a shot.
All other impressions are still vague and even though I have a couple of more
flights since, I still cant get past the fun part. I flew an hour with Mike
in Oswego at the fly-in and that was very helpful. I had also put in a few
hours in a Decathlon to brush up tail wheel techniques. I had carefully
planed the first flight, but once I got in the air all I could do is grin and
enjoy the experience. I flew for half an hour, covered more ground than I
would have believed possible, set up for a very precise pattern and
discovered that the RV lands better that any tail wheel airplane I have ever
flown. Good luck, and enjoy.
Ray Grenier
N20RG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Wing Kit For Sale |
Very interested. How old (when bought) and please send pics.
Doug Ritter
d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>
>I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with superb
>workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys project in
>order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit since I have a QB
>kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all parts are included.
>Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will sell for $2900 + shipping.
>I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the materials to build it.
>Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glen j matejcek <aerobubba(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8's around ATL |
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From: glen j matejcek, 110610,3305
Date: 09/15/2002 10:19 AM
RE: RV-8's around ATL
Hi All-
Recent events have caused me to need to unsubscribe (and stop work on my
-8) for about the next 2 months. They also are causing me to be in the ATL
area from the last week of Sep through the first week of Nov. It will be a
very busy time for me, but I'd love to see some area projects if the
planets should happen to align properly... If anyone able to link up,
please contact me off list.
Thanks in advance for your time and consideration!
Glen
rv-8 in Indy, aft spar attach drilled (Phew!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | x n number update requested |
RV-List Digest List
A while back a poster said that he thought it was possible to get an "X"
prefix for an n number, based on the the experimental category.
Has anyone reserved or actually received an X number for an RV?
Barry Pote RV9a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | TC Rebuild Recommendations? |
I have a turn coordinator in need of a rebuild. Can anyone recommend a
shop to do this. Preferably near NC or on the east coast of the US?
Thx
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 panel/fwf
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
"RV-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Re: x n number update requested |
This is what is on the FAA web site regarding N numbers.
The FAA no longer issues numbers beginning with "NC", "NX", "NR", or "NL".
On some older aircraft, these numbers may be displayed in accordance with
FAR 45.22
Doesn't sound like you can use X any longer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: x n number update requested
>
> A while back a poster said that he thought it was possible to get an "X"
> prefix for an n number, based on the the experimental category.
>
> Has anyone reserved or actually received an X number for an RV?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: F602 Question |
Mike,
I think that would be one of Van's "use your initiative" situations that
become more frequent in the later stages of construction.
Looking at my preview plans (the only ones I keep at home) on dwg 31, detail
D at midpage just left of centre shows the F602 and 3/4" angle join (but
doesn't mention a rivet size). Detail F just beside it shows how to join
F602 to the lower large size angle. The fwd fuse side view gives a hint of
how the tab at the top of the 602 is bent - see the upper RH of dwg 25 for
the tab size and bend.
But, I think you are right, there is no mention of how to fasten the F602 to
the upper longeron.
As I recall, I used an AN 426-4 of suitable length countersunk into the
longeron to get a flush surface. If you have a slider the F6105 and F6110
will need to fit onto the top of the longeron. Tip-up guys are not as
critical in this area. Don't think this is too critical a rivet as long as
the F602 isn't free to wobble back and forth.
Good luck !
Jim Oke
RV-3
RV-6A (orangepeeling aka painting underway !)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <>
Subject: RV6-List: F602 Question
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
>
> Can someone point me in the direction to the location (in the plans) where
it calls out the rivet type when attaching the F602 to the top longeron.
>
> Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
> Austin, TX
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I have a Pointer 3000 ELT. The antennae is too long to fit behind the
empennage fairing. Can it be cut 3" shorter without effecting
performance?
Or
Anyone have a spare ELT antennae they want to sell from the ACK or
Ameri-King ELTs? I assume they have a BNC connector too. They seem to
be shorter / more flexible and fit in the empennage nicely.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antennae? |
Larry,
My -6 has lightning holes in aft bulkhead of turtle deck beneath the emp
fairing. Don't know if the -8 has them, but if it does, mount a "Z" shaped
bracket that attaches to the vertical bulkhead and extends forward into the
lightning hole and mount antennae on the end that extends into the lightning
hole. This just off sets the mounting point of the antennae enough so the
end will fit under the emp fairing.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELT antennae?
>
> I have a Pointer 3000 ELT. The antennae is too long to fit behind the
> empennage fairing. Can it be cut 3" shorter without effecting
> performance?
>
> Or
>
> Anyone have a spare ELT antennae they want to sell from the ACK or
> Ameri-King ELTs? I assume they have a BNC connector too. They seem to
> be shorter / more flexible and fit in the empennage nicely.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Still For Sale |
I must sell this plane immediately. I really need for someone to
please, please, please make me a reasonable offer.
MOTIVATED SELLER!!!!
The details:
RV-8 27TT - empty weight 1110 - built from a standard kit
IO-360-A1B6 (200+HP) 27SMOH by Bart Lalonde (AeroSport Power) - the case
& crank were certified by Bart to conform to new limits or better and
everything else is new
- Hartzell C2YK prop - new from Van's
- Airflow Performance fuel injection system with purge valve
- Lightspeed electronic ignition system
- Vetterman crossover exhaust
- Denso 35amp alternator
- SkyTec lightweight starter
- Stewart Warner oil cooler - new from Pacific Oil Cooler
- Fuel tanks professionally built by Evan Johnson with flop tube in left
tank
- Infinity grip with PTT, coolie hat two-axis trim, start button, flap
switch & two unassigned buttons
- Deluxe throttle quadrant from Van's
- ACK ELT
- Brake reservoirs on pedals with no low pressure plastic tubing.
- Cowling installed with Camlocs. No hinges fwf.
- Becki Orndorff seats - navy blue w/gray chevron
- Hooker harnesses
All instruments & avionics brand new:
UPS GX-65 GPS/Comm
UPS SL-70 Transponder
UMA airspeed indicator - knots
SigmaTek attitude indicator - vacuum
Altimeter - 20K'
Turn coordinator
SigmaTek directional gyro - vacuum
RMI uEncoder
Manifold pressure - Van's
Tachometer - Van's
Oil temp - Van's
Oil pressure - Van's
EGT - Van's (one channel - cylinder #3)
CHT - Van's (one channel - Cylinder #3)
G meter
Clock - Electronics International
Volt/Ammeter - Electronics International
Magnetic compass - S.I.R.S.
Fuel computer - Electronics International
Dual fuel gauge - Electronics International
suction gauge
digital trim indicators (two-axis)
PS Engineering intercom
Hobbs meter
toggle switches for magneto & electronic ignition
Electrical system & wiring per Van's plans and utilizing Van's harness
kit
The plane is currently unpainted. The wheel pants & gear leg fairings
are installed, but the intersection fairings have not been fabricated.
Switches, wiring & strobe power packs are installed for Whelen three-way
wingtip lights, but the lights themselves have not been installed.
Switches & wiring are installed for RMD wingtip landing & taxi lights,
but the kits (included with the airplane) have not been installed.
The plane flies like any other RV: easy to handle on the ground and a
dream in the air.
Price Reduced to $115,000 OBO
Ken Balch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)ldai.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SWR antenna matching |
For Once I can help.
As you would expect.. You can't cut off 3" from any ACTIVE part (the
transmit / receive wire) of the antenna. It will substantially raise the
resonance frequency of the antenna.. Even shipping off a " will change
the resonance freq higher... And it is very important that the antenna freq
and radio freq be matched.. Or your effective transmit power will be
reduced greatly.. and then I won't here you coming.. Ouch !
FYI. after installing any antenna .. all builders should invite a local Ham
over.. with his trusty SRW meter to check and adjust the antenna as
necessary. (Or you can go out and buy one . about $150.. ) They might bend
your antenna just a touch or even snip a touch off.. But it will make a
BIG difference in your SRW reading.. and your transmitters effectivness...
We are looking for < 3:1. 2:1 is even better.. It's really hard to get
less than 1.5:1 or even 2:1 .. Hope this helps. :>
This is true for all your antenna's.. ELT, or COM... any time you want to
transmit.. you gotta have a good SRW to get the effective radiation of
transmitter power out there..
Al Karpinski
RV-8.. Waiting on Fus delivery
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antennae?
>
> Larry,
>
> My -6 has lightning holes in aft bulkhead of turtle deck beneath the emp
> fairing. Don't know if the -8 has them, but if it does, mount a "Z"
shaped
> bracket that attaches to the vertical bulkhead and extends forward into
the
> lightning hole and mount antennae on the end that extends into the
lightning
> hole. This just off sets the mounting point of the antennae enough so the
> end will fit under the emp fairing.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV-List: ELT antennae?
>
>
> >
> > I have a Pointer 3000 ELT. The antennae is too long to fit behind the
> > empennage fairing. Can it be cut 3" shorter without effecting
> > performance?
> >
> > Or
> >
> > Anyone have a spare ELT antennae they want to sell from the ACK or
> > Ameri-King ELTs? I assume they have a BNC connector too. They seem to
> > be shorter / more flexible and fit in the empennage nicely.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Looking for Seattle area RV8 builder/flyers |
Call Van's for a list of builders in your area.
For flyers in your area go here:
http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "William Allen (Volt)"
>
>Sorry for the post to those who don't live in the Seattle area.
>
>
>I'm looking at building an RV8 and would love to meet some people in my
>local area who are flying RV8's and wouldn't mind showing me their plane
>as well as answer some of my questions regarding this task I'm about to
>take on. I live in North Bend and currently fly out of KRNT. I'm down
>there quite a bit lately working on more ratings, license's and what
>ever else I can fool them into giving me ;-) I'm especially interested
>in any one who is using their plane for Aerobatics and/or IFR, and I
>don't mean at the same time :-)! Anyone who will talk to me reply
>directly to me.
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>-Will Allen
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 V Speeds or Operational Speeds |
Mike:
First I would put a lot of credence in your comment that all airplanes are
different. There are many variations in the accuracy of the pitot static
system on various aircraft. I assume you have Van's construction manual
which outlines most of these speeds. I also assume you have done a
preliminary check on the integrity of your pitot and static system for
leaks.
I have a RV-4 which I have owned for 2 years and accumulated about 200
hours. I also have another nearly completed. Both are 180 hp/CS prop.
My thoughts on airspeeds on my flying RV-4:
Best angle is very steep.. I have never even used it. It is probably around
80 mph indicated.
Best rate is around 100 mph indicated. Again, the airplane climbs so fast,
that I usually use a comfortable cruise climb of around 120-140 mph IAS.
Stall power off dirty is around 50 mph, clean, around 55 mph. This is CAS..
the IAS on my aircraft at slow speeds is around 8 mph slower than CAS.
Van's specs call for:
White arc: 50-100 mph
Green arc: 54-180 mph
Yellow arc: 180-210 mph
Vne: 210 mph
VA: 135 mph
The EW of my flying RV-4 is 1050 lbs.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
>
> I am getting real close to flying my RV-4 for the first time. Hopefully
by
> the end of October (I'm flying with Mike Seager for 4 days in Mid
October)!!
>
> I would like to hear from other RV-4 flyers what V-speeds they have found
for
> their plane. I know each plane is different and I need to determine each
for
> my plane, but I wanted something to start with on the first couple of
> flights. I have searched the archives with no luck. The speeds I'm
looking
> for are:
>
> Vx Best angle of climb
> Vy Best Rate of climb
> Vso Stall dirty
> Vs1 stall clean
> Va Maneuvering speed
> White arc
> Green arc
> yellow arc
> Vne never exceed
>
> If you have any or all of these, I'd love to see what you are finding.
Also,
> the empty weight of your plane!
>
> Thanks to all that reply!
> -Mike Kraus RV-4
> N223RV
> Tanks full, battery charged, awaiting certification
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
One of our members who lives in Chicago is asking whether there are any
flying RV-9As in the Midwest. I don't know of any off hand. Can anyone
help??
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TC Rebuild Recommendations? |
The Gyro House
1-800-THE-GYRO
http://www.gyrohouse.com/
Fast, friendly service at a reasonable rate. I have dealt with them several
times.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: TC Rebuild Recommendations?
>
> I have a turn coordinator in need of a rebuild. Can anyone recommend a
> shop to do this. Preferably near NC or on the east coast of the US?
>
> Thx
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 panel/fwf
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell vs. McCauley |
Greetings All:
I'm building an RV8A with an O-360 engine. It's time to look for a prop. A
local A&P suggests a McCauley. It seems most RV'ers are going with Hartzell.
What are the pros and cons of each regarding prohibited rpm, etc.
Thanks,
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Control Cables for Ellison |
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary
Subject: Control Cables for Ellison
I would be interested in talking with anyone who has installed an Ellison Throttle
Body carburetor, especially on an RV-7 or RV-9(A). I want to order the throttle
and mixture cables from Van's, but they can't tell me which lengths to
get for an Ellison set-up on an RV-9A O-320.
I am not even sure exactly how the standard Marvel carb set-up looks in terms of
throttle and mixture, in order to compare and make an educated wild-ass guess.
Anybody doing an Ellison?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PittsS1D(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6 Quickbuild project for SALE |
All kits included, airframe is complete except for cowling and gear leg
fairings, has sliding canopy, electric trim and flaps. Lycoming 0360 OSMOH,
New Garmin GNC 250XL GPS/COM, Garmin GTX 320 transponder, flight instruments,
most engine instruments, Softcom intercom, Ameri-King ELT. For more info,
contact: Chuck at grayk9(at)aol.com, 480-699-1037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Wing Kit For Sale |
I got your pictures and email. I don't know where I am
in the list of buyers but let me know if I get to the
number one spot.
Thanks,
Rick
--- Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>
> I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially
> finished with superb
> workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought
> another guys project in
> order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing
> kit since I have a QB
> kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all
> parts are included.
> Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will
> sell for $2900 + shipping.
> I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the
> materials to build it.
> Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Wing Kit For Sale |
PS. I live on Long Island NY so I might drive down to
pick it up.
Rick
--- Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>
> I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially
> finished with superb
> workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought
> another guys project in
> order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing
> kit since I have a QB
> kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all
> parts are included.
> Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will
> sell for $2900 + shipping.
> I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the
> materials to build it.
> Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PittsS1D(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6 for sale - respond off list |
Please respond off list to the RV6 for sale thread. Thanks
Chuck - grayk9(at)aol.com
480-699-1037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ACS2002 Engine Monitor Now with Voice Alerts |
We have just added some new features to the ACS2002 engine monitor.
1. Voice alerts - The system will now tell you what the error is.
2. Fuel Computer to Fuel Tank Level cross checking - The system will tell you
if the fuel computer does not agree with the fuel tank levels. This should
remind you to set the fuel computer after you fill up.
3. EGT Peak detection. The system will display the first cylinder to peak
and what the temperature difference is.
The first customer system has flown in a RV-6a.
Rob Hickman
RV-4 N401RH (IO-360 180HP) 210 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
It looks like the hurricane is going to miss us for now so climb into your RVs
and come to lunch at Loves Landing Airpark,monthly get together of Fl. Wing of
Vans Airforce.
Plenty of bar'Q,hamburgers and hotdogs plus all the fixens.
When--Sat,Sept 21st Lunch at noon and coffee and donuts for early birds.
Where---Loves Landing Airpark,central Fl. (97FL)
N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
NOTE: Private airport,land at your own risk.
Ollie--6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell vs. McCauley |
>
>Greetings All:
>I'm building an RV8A with an O-360 engine. It's time to look for a prop. A
>local A&P suggests a McCauley. It seems most RV'ers are going with Hartzell.
>What are the pros and cons of each regarding prohibited rpm, etc.
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
The prohibited rpm ranges depends on which exact model O-360 and
which exact model prop.
You find the info on prohibited ranges in the prop's FAA Type
Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS), at:
<http://www1.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/CurModTCHolder?OpenView&Start=284&Count 0&Expand=293#293>
Note: this link may get chopped in two by the wonders of e-mail. If
so, it won't be functional until you copy and paste it back into one
line, starting with http, and ending with #293
The Hartzell prop that Van sells is found on TCDS P-920. I'm not
sure which TCDS has the relevant McCauley prop, but if you poke
through all the TDCSs listed under McCauley you'll surely find the
right one.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the invite but Work will get in the way. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Frame alignment problems |
First,
Thanks to all that responded on my roll bar problems - I've moved it forward about
1/4" and both bolt holes are forward of the 604 and the edge distance has
been maintained.
Meanwhile, now I'm trying to set up the canopy slider frame...
When I line up the forward 'roll-bar' part of the slider frame with the mounted
roll-bar, my rear slider mount is off by 1 1/16"...or...the rear slider lines
up and I have a gap on one side (right) between the two roll-bars.
Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit feels like
it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold the steel tubing
and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be impossible (for me...ask
the people that know me!).
Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the square
side tubes.
Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Frame alignment problems |
In a message dated 9/21/02 8:44:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit
feels like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold the
steel tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be
impossible (for me...ask the people that know me!).
Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
square side tubes.
Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX >>
My canopy frame was slightly warped(?) too. I used lots of muscle (OK, all
I've got) to try and tweak it, but had little or no success. when I
installed it the gaps were different on the right and left sides. The
difference is ~1/16" and it is unnoticable to anyone other than me.
The whole canopy experience is one of minimizing the mis-fits between a
fuselage you built, a canopy frame vendor "A" built, and a bubble vendor "B"
built. None of it is going to fit perfectly, but if you take your time it
can be made to fit very well.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Frame alignment problems |
Ralph;
The canopy frame can be bent - but it takes a surprising amount of force to
do so and this must be applied carefully to avoid making the situation worse
rather than better.
I recall clamping 2x4s to the square side rails for leverage and standing on
the forward bow to tweak the side rails. Sounds like your left rail needs to
go "out" a bit and the right rail "in" the same amount to shift the aft
centre over that 1 1/16" difference. Keep in mind that you will probably
want some sort of rubber gasket (car trunk seal material is popular) between
the forward bow and the canopy later on so a small gap at the canopy bow
will not be too noticeable when you are done.
A good deal of "tweaking" is need to make the aft curved pieces conform to
the fuselage skin. I used an idea from Sport Aviation years ago with a
couple of V block pulleys 4" in dia or so mounted on a wood block to get
smooth bends on a curved steel tube. Space the pulleys about an inch apart
and place the tube in between and lean on it - the V part spreads the load
out. It is a "get one part right then work on another section which throws
the first part out" situation - so don't be surprised to take a few days for
this.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message ----- recapen(at)earthlink.net
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <>
Subject: RV-List: Slider Frame alignment problems
>
> First,
>
> Thanks to all that responded on my roll bar problems - I've moved it
forward about 1/4" and both bolt holes are forward of the 604 and the edge
distance has been maintained.
>
> Meanwhile, now I'm trying to set up the canopy slider frame...
>
> When I line up the forward 'roll-bar' part of the slider frame with the
mounted roll-bar, my rear slider mount is off by 1 1/16"...or...the rear
slider lines up and I have a gap on one side (right) between the two
roll-bars.
>
> Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit
feels like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold
the steel tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be
impossible (for me...ask the people that know me!).
>
> Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
square side tubes.
>
> Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB Richardson, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Frame alignment problems |
Ralph et al,
I'm going through the same thing with the round tube canopy. I haven't
drilled anything yet, but have clamped the roll bar in place and have
started tweaking the slider. I had a similar misalignment at the rear
center and have (at least temporarily) cured it by scooting the right
side of the roll bar to the rear about a quarter inch. When I did that
the rear slide block and the track centered better. The roll bar is
vertically square to the fuselage sides, but the gap between the roll
bar and the slider is larger at the top. When I attempt to latch it, it
pulls the aft end of the canopy way up above the skin line. I'm
considering tilting the roll bar aft to make the gap even. Then I found
some twist in the slider frame which my wife and I were able to mostly
rack out of it to get the aft pins about the same distance vertically
from the fuselage. The sides of the slider don't match the curve of the
fuselage well, so it looks like some bending is in the cards there. I
guess I'm going to keep tweaking the slider until everything pretty much
lines up before I drill any holes.
Anybody got better ideas?
Ed Holyoke
6qb
Subject: RV-List: Slider Frame alignment problems
First,
Thanks to all that responded on my roll bar problems - I've moved it
forward about 1/4" and both bolt holes are forward of the 604 and the
edge distance has been maintained.
Meanwhile, now I'm trying to set up the canopy slider frame...
When I line up the forward 'roll-bar' part of the slider frame with the
mounted roll-bar, my rear slider mount is off by 1 1/16"...or...the rear
slider lines up and I have a gap on one side (right) between the two
roll-bars.
Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit
feels like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the
hold the steel tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it
will be impossible (for me...ask the people that know me!).
Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
square side tubes.
Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
> I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
> strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
> Thanks,
> Amit.
I mounted mine just behind the baggage rear bulkhead in my 6A. It lies on
two pieces of angle that lie on the belly skin. Each piece of angle is
braced with another piece of angle on a 45 up to the center frame and the
outside part of the bulkhead. It ends up being very stiff and quite
convienent for inspection. About as centered as possible for the three
strobe cable runs.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
We aren't that close to Chicago but we are in the Midwest here in Northeast
Ohio. We have a flying RV-9A in Wooster Ohio, an hour south of Cleveland.
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | New ELT Wont Shut Off |
Listers,
Getting ready to fly...
My new AMERI-KING AK-450 doesn't want to work correctly.
The batteries are brand new and in correctly.
When running without the remote hooked up... all is perfect.
As soon as I plug in the "phone wire" to the remote, the system activates.
Un-plug the remote, and things are fine again. Resetting the push buttons
does nothing...
Any Ideas... besides the obvious... bad switch in the remote? No obvious
metal that is shorting out the plug.
Jim
Tampa
6A, flying in a couple of weeks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Sebok" <ksebok(at)chinita.com> |
| Subject: | New ELT Wont Shut Off |
Jim-
I had the same problem w/ mine a few months back. A quick search of the
archives revealed that a few others have had the same problem, and have not
been able to resolve it without sending it back to A-K. I (as well as the
others) contacted Ameri-King re: the problem. The solution per the rep (who
I believe happened to be the owner of A-K) was to send the ELT back for
repair. The fee for doing so was in the $100 range, as the unit was just
out of warranty. I told him that I knew that others had the same problem w/
the same unit, that I didn't believe that it was a random glitch, and didn't
believe it appropriate to charge for fixing the problem (this was the first
time that I tested it- after buying a completed RV-6). He went into a
long-winded explanation re: needing to pay salaries for the engineers who
are required to repair such a "sophisticated" device.
I opted to replace it w/ a new one, an ACK. Hopefully, you're w/in the
warranty period and can afford to wait (may be able to get it back by the
time you're ready to fly).
Good luck.
Ken
W. Palm Beach
RV-6, F-1 Rocket in the Oven
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Norman
Subject: RV-List: New ELT Wont Shut Off
Listers,
Getting ready to fly...
My new AMERI-KING AK-450 doesn't want to work correctly.
The batteries are brand new and in correctly.
When running without the remote hooked up... all is perfect.
As soon as I plug in the "phone wire" to the remote, the system activates.
Un-plug the remote, and things are fine again. Resetting the push buttons
does nothing...
Any Ideas... besides the obvious... bad switch in the remote? No obvious
metal that is shorting out the plug.
Jim
Tampa
6A, flying in a couple of weeks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off |
Jim,
Are you using the "phone wire" that came with the ELT? Also did you shorten it
by cutting it and replacing one of the connectors? I shortened mine and
installed the connector 180 out and, IIRC had the same problem. It's obviously
a problem with either the wire or the remote itself.
I wouldn't let it delay the first flight since the ELT will still function
properly and it won't be a safety issue.
Dave -6 SoCal
Jim Norman wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Getting ready to fly...
> My new AMERI-KING AK-450 doesn't want to work correctly.
>
> The batteries are brand new and in correctly.
> When running without the remote hooked up... all is perfect.
> As soon as I plug in the "phone wire" to the remote, the system activates.
> Un-plug the remote, and things are fine again. Resetting the push buttons
> does nothing...
>
> Any Ideas... besides the obvious... bad switch in the remote? No obvious
> metal that is shorting out the plug.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
> 6A, flying in a couple of weeks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off |
Seems like I recall that the cause of this problem with a remote switch is
that the cable wiring is different than you would expect. If you shorten
the cable and put another plug on the end your are likely to have this
problem if you don't wire it correctly. Search the archive and I think you
will find the problem/solution.
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: New ELT Wont Shut Off
>
> Listers,
> Getting ready to fly...
> My new AMERI-KING AK-450 doesn't want to work correctly.
>
> The batteries are brand new and in correctly.
> When running without the remote hooked up... all is perfect.
> As soon as I plug in the "phone wire" to the remote, the system activates.
> Un-plug the remote, and things are fine again. Resetting the push buttons
> does nothing...
>
> Any Ideas... besides the obvious... bad switch in the remote? No obvious
> metal that is shorting out the plug.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
> 6A, flying in a couple of weeks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off |
If you examine the phone wire that comes with the elt you will find that one
of the connectors is reversed - to replace the phone wire with the standard
wire you buy at the hardware store you have to resplice it to match the one
that came with it - I wander how much extra they charge to make the phone
wire non standard. My remote stopped working last week but it was just the
little battery (3 volt) in the remote. It still had 2.92 volts left but
didnt work.
Dave Beizer
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Frame alignment problems |
You can bend these frames quite easily. Screw som wood blocks onto a flat
table top. Use some of the blocks to hold the frame and others to anchor
c-clamp to bend where necessary.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Frame alignment problems
>
> In a message dated 9/21/02 8:44:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit
> feels like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold
the
> steel tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be
> impossible (for me...ask the people that know me!).
>
> Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
> square side tubes.
>
> Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB Richardson, TX >>
>
> My canopy frame was slightly warped(?) too. I used lots of muscle (OK,
all
> I've got) to try and tweak it, but had little or no success. when I
> installed it the gaps were different on the right and left sides. The
> difference is ~1/16" and it is unnoticable to anyone other than me.
>
> The whole canopy experience is one of minimizing the mis-fits between a
> fuselage you built, a canopy frame vendor "A" built, and a bubble vendor
"B"
> built. None of it is going to fit perfectly, but if you take your time it
> can be made to fit very well.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED |
Listers, for the Archives...
Some of you had it right. Here is the story in detail.
The AMERI-KING AK-450 uses a telephone wire to connect the unit to its
remote on/reset switch.
This telephone wire is NOT a standard telephone wire.... although it looks
exactly like the one that you use for your phone.
Ameri-king has purposefully flipped one of the connectors on the end of the
wire. They send you a 25 foot wire, so the temptation is to go to Radio
Shack and pick up a 6 foot cord-- or whatever length you need. The standard
wire that you get from Radio shack (or from the back of your phone) will
hook right up, but one of the ends will be flipped, and thus will not work
with the AK-450.
If you hold the telephone wire plug so it is facing you, with the little
locking tab on the bottom, the black wire must be on the right ON BOTH
PLUGS. The standard wires that we all use for our phones have the black
wire on the left on one plug, and on the right on the other.
The remedy... don't buy a new wire... you will have to cut the end off of it
and put a new one on (flipped). Instead, keep the 25 footer that comes with
the unit and cut it down to 6 or 7 feet (whatever length needed) and crimp a
new end on this wire.
Remember, black wire to the right on both plugs when you are looking at them
end-on, with locking tab on the bottom.
Jim
Tampa
Archives: Telephone wire, ELT, Ameriking, Ameri-king, AK450, AK-450
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen single power supply - placement ? |
> > I am looking for ideas as to where to mount the power supply for the
> > strobes. I have the single power supply style for all (3) strobes.
> > Thanks,
> > Amit.
I put mine under the baggage floor. Cut one of the baggage floor sides in
half, added some doublers, and nut-plated that half to the ribs/doubler.
Pop-riveted the rest of the baggage floor pieces as per the plans. Worked
well for me so far and gets it out of sight out of mind.
Don't have any detailed pix but I do have one picture looking down on the
finished baggage floor in place so you can kind of see how its cut and the
screw heads where the power supply is, at
http://www.edt.com:80/homewing/rhproject/bungee.jpg (never mind the
bungee -- that's just to hold down baggage and junk). Or better yet pop out
to the airport sometime and have a look!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Slider Frame alignment problems |
Hi Ralph,
Don't feel bad. Nobody's fit's perfectly out of the box. It's been my
experience here in the twin cities, that nearly everyone has tweaked their
frams a bit. I was luck in the fact that I only had to "squeeze" the aft
end of my canopy in about 1/2", and bend on side of the front about 1/4".
You solution will depend on where you need to bend, but in my case I used
some 2x4's and ratcheting tie down straps. Using a combination of sqeezing
with the ratchet straps, and the the wood, I got it to fit great.
End result, my slider now slides open completely on it's own...in fact I put
rubber bumpers at the rear so I wouldn't slam open in case I let it go!
Don't be afraid to stand on it, clamp it, etc.. It will move.
Good luck,
Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis
Still "working" with the FAA towards inspection.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV6-List: Slider Frame alignment problems
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
First,
Thanks to all that responded on my roll bar problems - I've moved it forward
about 1/4" and both bolt holes are forward of the 604 and the edge distance
has been maintained.
Meanwhile, now I'm trying to set up the canopy slider frame...
When I line up the forward 'roll-bar' part of the slider frame with the
mounted roll-bar, my rear slider mount is off by 1 1/16"...or...the rear
slider lines up and I have a gap on one side (right) between the two
roll-bars.
Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit feels
like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold the
steel tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be
impossible (for me...ask the people that know me!).
Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
square side tubes.
Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED |
I had planned on buying this ELT now I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend the
extra 20 bucks and go with the ACK E-01? Anyone every use the ACK ELT?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED
>
> Listers, for the Archives...
>
> Some of you had it right. Here is the story in detail.
>
> The AMERI-KING AK-450 uses a telephone wire to connect the unit to its
> remote on/reset switch.
>
> This telephone wire is NOT a standard telephone wire.... although it looks
> exactly like the one that you use for your phone.
>
> Ameri-king has purposefully flipped one of the connectors on the end of
the
> wire. They send you a 25 foot wire, so the temptation is to go to Radio
> Shack and pick up a 6 foot cord-- or whatever length you need. The
standard
> wire that you get from Radio shack (or from the back of your phone) will
> hook right up, but one of the ends will be flipped, and thus will not work
> with the AK-450.
>
> If you hold the telephone wire plug so it is facing you, with the little
> locking tab on the bottom, the black wire must be on the right ON BOTH
> PLUGS. The standard wires that we all use for our phones have the black
> wire on the left on one plug, and on the right on the other.
>
> The remedy... don't buy a new wire... you will have to cut the end off of
it
> and put a new one on (flipped). Instead, keep the 25 footer that comes
with
> the unit and cut it down to 6 or 7 feet (whatever length needed) and crimp
a
> new end on this wire.
>
> Remember, black wire to the right on both plugs when you are looking at
them
> end-on, with locking tab on the bottom.
>
> Jim
> Tampa
>
> Archives: Telephone wire, ELT, Ameriking, Ameri-king, AK450, AK-450
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
Hi All,
I just wanted to post a quick note about gear/wheel pant intersection
fairings.
Since I've lately had more time than money, I ordered a set of intersection
fairings from Bob at Fairings Etc.. (http://www.fairings-etc.com)
I ordered a set of fuselage to gear fairings and a set of gear to wheel pant
fairings. I called Bob, he gave me a deliver date and guess what.....They
arrived EXACTLY as promised (a first for me ordering something for the RV).
Anyway, I got the fairings this week and they are gorgeous. I took them to
the hangar today to see how they would fit. I put the fairings for the
fuselage over the gear legs. They fit the fuselage PERFECTLY. The same for
the wheel pant fairings, which are already cut in two to match the new
pants. Total price, $200.00 even. May seem steep to you, and I guess it is,
but I just didn't have the time to do the layups myself, and these things
are already perfect and will only take a few hours of work to be DONE. Well
worth it to a lazy man like me!
Just and FYI for anyone considering an alternative to laying them up
yourself. I'm not afraid of fiberglass, and have actually gotten quite good
at it. Don't be afraid to do them yourself, but if you're like me and have
very little time, this is DEFINATELY the way to go. No hassle, and they
actually fit!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis,
Still waiting on the FAA for inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
I'll second Stein's recommendation of "Bob" at www.fairings-etc.com
I ordered an RV-4 empennage fairing and Geeeez... it almost fit right out of
the box. Bob does great work at a fair price.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Stein Bruch <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV-List: Intersection Fairings
>
> Hi All,
>
> I just wanted to post a quick note about gear/wheel pant intersection
> fairings.
>
> Since I've lately had more time than money, I ordered a set of
intersection
> fairings from Bob at Fairings Etc.. (http://www.fairings-etc.com)
>
> I ordered a set of fuselage to gear fairings and a set of gear to wheel
pant
> fairings. I called Bob, he gave me a deliver date and guess what.....They
> arrived EXACTLY as promised (a first for me ordering something for the
RV).
>
> Anyway, I got the fairings this week and they are gorgeous. I took them
to
> the hangar today to see how they would fit. I put the fairings for the
> fuselage over the gear legs. They fit the fuselage PERFECTLY. The same
for
> the wheel pant fairings, which are already cut in two to match the new
> pants. Total price, $200.00 even. May seem steep to you, and I guess it
is,
> but I just didn't have the time to do the layups myself, and these things
> are already perfect and will only take a few hours of work to be DONE.
Well
> worth it to a lazy man like me!
>
> Just and FYI for anyone considering an alternative to laying them up
> yourself. I'm not afraid of fiberglass, and have actually gotten quite
good
> at it. Don't be afraid to do them yourself, but if you're like me and
have
> very little time, this is DEFINATELY the way to go. No hassle, and they
> actually fit!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis,
> Still waiting on the FAA for inspection
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cbradley1967(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | International Question |
Listers,
Which country outside of the U.S., Canada, U.K., and Austrailia is most
active in building and flying experimental and light aircraft?
My wife's job will take us to almost any country we choose for 2 to 3 years,
and I want to pick one that I can remain active in building/flying.
Thanks,
C. Bradley Ellenberger
RV-7 Dreaming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Frame alignment problems - tweeked by muscle |
Folks,
Thanks for all of the suggestions and pointers to different websites!
I've muscled this thing around and am now very happy with its fit. As I was
getting the rear aligned, the four bottom corners fell into alignment at the
same time...lucky me!
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED |
In a message dated 9/21/2002 10:30:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
karied4(at)attbi.com writes:
> I had planned on buying this ELT now I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend the
> extra 20 bucks and go with the ACK E-01? Anyone every use the ACK ELT?
I have the ACK E-01 in my 6A. It is easy to mount in the space between the
right side cabin wall and the seat back attach right in front of the F-605
bulkhead) and it is working perfectly well.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 570hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
The archives give lots of info but I wondered what the current thinking is.
I am attempting to paint the interior of my RV8. I have used Dupont
Variprime self-etching primer and was using IMRON finish coat. The
products were both purchased in California. 20 years ago I used IMRON on a
Christen Eagle and it was different. Dried in about an hour, this stuff
takes 15 or so hours to completely dry. But my biggest problem, I think, is
cleaning prior to painting. I have been using a product called "Prep-All",
a wax and grease remover made by Klean-Strip. If I use MEK it removes the
primer. The paint fish-eyes, is repelled by the surface and looks terrible.
I know I probably got oil on the primer from my air drill but how do you
clean prior to painting and how do you know the surface is clean and ready
to paint? What are you using to clean, rags, brush, papertowels? Thanks
for any advise.
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED |
>
>I had planned on buying this ELT now I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend the
>extra 20 bucks and go with the ACK E-01? Anyone every use the ACK ELT?
Spruce told me that the AmeriKing is the biggest seller and with few or no
complaints. I think manufacturer would be wise to either rewire that
"phone line" or at least give buyers a big page of warning not to cut the
wire. This is a design flaw and it has cost them big. I suspect that each
call to their customer service line costs them more than $50.
I bought one because it was cheapest and some have no problems with it. It
is US made, neat bright orange and heavy with those six D cells. The
construction of what can be seen looks to be first class. The included
batteries are dated 2008!
I strongly favor bad mouthing truly bad products, service etc but I believe
that altering the product before evaluating it is unfair to us all.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
If I am painting bare small parts, I'll use plain old lacquer thinner to
initially remove Sharpie pen marks, etc. Then a rough up with Scotchbrite
pads. Then clean with Dupont 3812S reducer. Then spray the primer. I just
use lint-free paper towels to clean up and a tack rag also.
If the part is already primed, I just use 3812S as a cleaner. Always works
for me.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
>
> The archives give lots of info but I wondered what the current thinking
is.
> I am attempting to paint the interior of my RV8. I have used Dupont
> Variprime self-etching primer and was using IMRON finish coat. The
> products were both purchased in California. 20 years ago I used IMRON on
a
> Christen Eagle and it was different. Dried in about an hour, this stuff
> takes 15 or so hours to completely dry. But my biggest problem, I think,
is
> cleaning prior to painting. I have been using a product called
"Prep-All",
> a wax and grease remover made by Klean-Strip. If I use MEK it removes the
> primer. The paint fish-eyes, is repelled by the surface and looks
terrible.
> I know I probably got oil on the primer from my air drill but how do you
> clean prior to painting and how do you know the surface is clean and ready
> to paint? What are you using to clean, rags, brush, papertowels? Thanks
> for any advise.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Ralph...
I just got done with my canopy and stuff about a month ago, and I have the
later square model as well. Mine was out of whack in most dimensions also but
I found out that you can just bend it in almost any direction. You want to do
this before you try fitting the canopy to it so as to get the most accurate
canopy cut. However, the canopy is so flexible you have much leeway. All I
can say is that like the other fellow who responded, you can make jigs to
apply pressure anyplace you want. Takes a little inventiveness, but is easily
done. Recently I found my forward frame was in about half an inch, causing a
bind in the tracks, so I took it out and stood on one side of the forward bow
while pulling like heck on the other side. Did this little by little until it
fit perfectly, now doesn't bind at all. The main thing in all this is to get
a good fit with the front and especially the rear bows. The rears need to
either match or be 1/16" above the rear skin, or you'll have a tough time
with the rear skirts. Trust me on this one.... If you need more details on
any of this, call or email me and I'll go into greater depth. Rivet on...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, Oregon
RV6a/slider/finish kit
jerry2dt(at)aol.com 503 925 1517
In a message dated 9/21/02 11:57:17 PM, rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<<
Meanwhile, now I'm trying to set up the canopy slider frame...
When I line up the forward 'roll-bar' part of the slider frame with the
mounted roll-bar, my rear slider mount is off by 1 1/16"...or...the rear
slider lines up and I have a gap on one side (right) between the two
roll-bars.
Van's says ignore the gap - or try to bend it to fit...bending to fit feels
like it will be very difficult (I have no idea how to bend the hold the steel
tubing and bend it at the same time) while ignoring it will be impossible
(for me...ask the people that know me!).
Anyone else had this problem? It's a newer slider mechanism - with the
square side tubes.
Someone tell me how they overcame this...PLEASE...it's driving me nuts!
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> |
Hi,
I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes on the right
hand side. They were well worn. The left side looked brand new. I don't
think I have been riding only the right brake, so I am wondering if the
right brake has been dragging for a while. What would cause this?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Problem |
I would check to see if the caliper is binding on the slide pins and I
probably would replace the piston o-ring.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake Problem
>
> Hi,
>
> I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes on the right
> hand side. They were well worn. The left side looked brand new. I don't
> think I have been riding only the right brake, so I am wondering if the
> right brake has been dragging for a while. What would cause this?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes
> on the right hand side. They were well worn. The left side
> looked brand new. I don't think I have been riding only the
> right brake, so I am wondering if the right brake has been
> dragging for a while. What would cause this?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
Glenn, one possibility is that you are inadvertently applying brakes
during your initial few hundred feet of takeoff roll. Try flying
without shoes a few times and see if things "feel" differently to you.
Another problem which surfaced a few years ago and was discussed on this
list a lot was the problem with spring length on Cleveland brake master
cylinders. Your brake pedals should move a little with minimal
resistance, then get real firm. If you don't have this initial
movement, you might need different springs. I don't recall the details
on this because it didn't affect me.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 207 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Slider Frame alignment problems |
Hey Ralph grab the bull buy the horns and do what it
takes. I had to cut the tubing to bend mine to fit and
then weld it back , its no big deal , Good luck.
bud balone
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a set of George and Becki Orndorf builder assistance videos and the
tool use video too.
Along with these I also have an ICOM A22 hnad held with nicad battery.
All items like new conditon, used very little..
Make me an offer offline at WLPMAP(at)aol.com.
Thanks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
I am wondering what you all have experienced.
I have an engine (O-360) with 10:1 pistons, which means it is no longer a
certified engine. Does this mean I have to fly a 40 hour test period, rather
than 25? (Prop is certified).
Is this in the same category as a "Bart" engine, which is also not
certified? Did you guys have to fly the 40 hour test period?
Thanks,
John Huft RV8 durn near done
Pagosa Springs, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
John,
Getting close are you?
If the engine has other than stock compresion
I would imagine you are looking at a 40 hr test period.
Don't know of any approval for thoes pistons in an O-360.
Stewart N273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Problem |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Dear Glen,
Slightly dragging brakes (not enough to notice on taxiing) on brand new
RV-6s is seen so often that I would have to say it is very very likely. The
most common problem I have seen with this is too much friction in the
pedals. This can be any of the bolt and nut combinations which are involved
in the brake pedal and master cylinders. If you have dual brakes your have
twice the opportunity to experience this problem.
Just make sure all your bolts and castle nuts/cotter keys are sloppy loose
and well lubricated. If they are, then go to all the other stuff like the
piston, or binding at the wheel.
Denis
> From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 16:58:51 -0500
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Brake Problem
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes on the right
> hand side. They were well worn. The left side looked brand new. I don't
> think I have been riding only the right brake, so I am wondering if the
> right brake has been dragging for a while. What would cause this?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
| Subject: | Lord mount orientation??? |
I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?
Thanks
Greg Hunsicker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Problem |
Glenn,
If you have wheel pants make sure the are not hitting the brake housing.
Ray rv-6a rv-8a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake Problem
>
> Hi,
>
> I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes on the right
> hand side. They were well worn. The left side looked brand new. I don't
> think I have been riding only the right brake, so I am wondering if the
> right brake has been dragging for a while. What would cause this?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel/Legal Question.... |
Kurt, just drain the fuel you need out of a plane.
If the plane belongs to somebody you know, you might want to ask
first....... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
=================================
KAKlewin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> OK...well where do I start....
>
> I've been making some local calls to several of the many airports in the OKC
> area trying to get 10-15 gal of 100LL to do some tank checks and at some
> point get some to run the motor for the first time....anyway...as you know
> there are some "legal" issues (as they put it) to selling me some 100LL in a
> couple of cans....hence...no one will sell me any..(has to be a plane on the
> ramp they say).. Im sure if I bribed the right line guy or found the right
> place I could make it all work.....but the whole issue makes me a bit angry.
> Im not putting it in a damm race cycle, snowmobile, or car.....I have a plane
> that needs some gas!!! They said they could give me some if I put the wings
> on and towed it out to the airport.......(gee thanks..) So hence my
> question: What organization/ruling body governs the operations of FBO
> fueling to prevent me from getting gas and putting it into my airplane?? I
> want to know so I can see if there are some exemptions to this rule to do
> engine runs in the future.....?? Thanks for letting me vent....=)
>
> Kurt "no gas" Klewin....high and dry in OKC.....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
On surfaces that are eventually going to be painted, you should NOT PRIME until
just before you're ready to put the final color on. Primer is intended to be a
surface that paint will penetrate and hold on to, so most everything else will
penetrate it too including oil from the air drill and your fingers. I don't know
of any way to remove that oil, short of taking the primer off and re-priming.
If you are using the primer just to protect against corrosion (like inside the
wings) it won't make much difference but if you're going to paint over it....
Dave
Rich Crosley wrote:
>
> The archives give lots of info but I wondered what the current thinking is.
> I am attempting to paint the interior of my RV8. I have used Dupont
> Variprime self-etching primer and was using IMRON finish coat. The
> products were both purchased in California. 20 years ago I used IMRON on a
> Christen Eagle and it was different. Dried in about an hour, this stuff
> takes 15 or so hours to completely dry. But my biggest problem, I think, is
> cleaning prior to painting. I have been using a product called "Prep-All",
> a wax and grease remover made by Klean-Strip. If I use MEK it removes the
> primer. The paint fish-eyes, is repelled by the surface and looks terrible.
> I know I probably got oil on the primer from my air drill but how do you
> clean prior to painting and how do you know the surface is clean and ready
> to paint? What are you using to clean, rags, brush, papertowels? Thanks
> for any advise.
>
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
> RV8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel/Legal Question.... |
Kurt,
Our local airport sold us gas in a can so we could run our engine.
We didn't build our 9A at the airport. I worked at an FBO many moons ago.
Back then we would sell gas to someone if he said it was for an airplane. If
someone came in with a can and said it was for a race car, we said sorry
can't do it. It sounds like your local guys are being what Freud would call
anal retentive.
Good Luck,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Problem |
Glen,
If you have the cylinders with the external return spring, this seems to be quite
normal.
My sticking problem was solved by putting a washer on top of the snap ring and
letting the spring push on the cylinder instead of the bushing. The bushing was
moving about .050 and would not let the internal valve open to dump the pressure.
Van's answer to the problem was changing to a different cylinder.
There's a lot on this subject in the archives.
Dave -6 SoCal
Glenn Gordon wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I now have 65 hours on my RV-6. Today I replaced the brakes on the right
> hand side. They were well worn. The left side looked brand new. I don't
> think I have been riding only the right brake, so I am wondering if the
> right brake has been dragging for a while. What would cause this?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Problem |
I have over 800 hours on my -6A and have always gone thru right hand brakes
because I believe now that the nose gear has always been tilted a bit to the
left, causing it to want to steer left. I have discovered that if the brake
pads get worn enough, not down to the rivets, but well worn, that the piston
can blow out of the cylinder, or blow the O-ring. I will eventually attempt
a realignment using a taper pin, but for now a new set of pads is fast and
easy. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>I am wondering what you all have experienced.
>
>I have an engine (O-360) with 10:1 pistons, which means it is no longer a
>certified engine. Does this mean I have to fly a 40 hour test period,
>rather
>than 25? (Prop is certified).
>
>Is this in the same category as a "Bart" engine, which is also not
>certified? Did you guys have to fly the 40 hour test period?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Huft RV8 durn near done
>Pagosa Springs, CO
>
Welcome, John, to your future in RV8 aviating! I'd plan on the 40 hour
period. No biggee. Beats hell out of a 40 hour work week. Hey, where did
you get the 10:1 pistons? Have a part number handy? I've been
contemplating boosting the ponies in my O-360 when the next crappy chrome
jug lets go. Milleniums and domed pistons. Ooh yeah.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
Albeqwerky, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV4-List: Lord mount orientation??? |
" I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?"
-----------------------------------------------------
Hello Greg,
Last I checked there were no orientation marks for conical mounts. They just
go in. What indication do you have that would make you think they need to be
"oriented" ?? If you want a picture of mine I will send it to you - - send
me an e-mail to my address above, NOT to the list. I'm sending this to the
list since I have never heard of orientation marks - - - does anyone else
have any idea what could be baffling Greg??
Take Care,
Linc
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
So how would an inspector know that you have 10 to 1 pistons unless you told
him? You can't see the pistons and I don't think that the inspector is
going to do a volumetric test on a cylinder. They are those that claim that
just by installing a certified engine in an experimental makes them
non-certifies and they still get a certified testing period. Go figure.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: test flying
>
>
> >
> >I am wondering what you all have experienced.
> >
> >I have an engine (O-360) with 10:1 pistons, which means it is no longer a
> >certified engine. Does this mean I have to fly a 40 hour test period,
> >rather
> >than 25? (Prop is certified).
> >
> >Is this in the same category as a "Bart" engine, which is also not
> >certified? Did you guys have to fly the 40 hour test period?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >John Huft RV8 durn near done
> >Pagosa Springs, CO
> >
>
> Welcome, John, to your future in RV8 aviating! I'd plan on the 40 hour
> period. No biggee. Beats hell out of a 40 hour work week. Hey, where did
> you get the 10:1 pistons? Have a part number handy? I've been
> contemplating boosting the ponies in my O-360 when the next crappy chrome
> jug lets go. Milleniums and domed pistons. Ooh yeah.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 301 hrs.
> Albeqwerky, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Brake problem |
I had the problem on my RV-4 and found out the pressure only releases in the
last .065 " of travel of the piston. I took the return springs off and
stretched the puppies - no more problem. The extra strength of the spring
doesn't mean anything.
Bob Olds oldsfolks(at)aol.com
RV-4 , N1191X , Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Brian, I don't have the part #s, but see http://www.lycon.com/nfs.htm
I got mine from Lycon (Visalia, CA), who also ported and polished the
cylinders.
John
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: test flying
>
>I am wondering what you all have experienced.
>
>I have an engine (O-360) with 10:1 pistons, which means it is no longer a
>certified engine. Does this mean I have to fly a 40 hour test period,
>rather
>than 25? (Prop is certified).
>
>Is this in the same category as a "Bart" engine, which is also not
>certified? Did you guys have to fly the 40 hour test period?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Huft RV8 durn near done
>Pagosa Springs, CO
>
Welcome, John, to your future in RV8 aviating! I'd plan on the 40 hour
period. No biggee. Beats hell out of a 40 hour work week. Hey, where did
you get the 10:1 pistons? Have a part number handy? I've been
contemplating boosting the ponies in my O-360 when the next crappy chrome
jug lets go. Milleniums and domed pistons. Ooh yeah.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
Albeqwerky, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Proseal question |
I purchased the small (1 1/2 Oz.) proseal kit to seal the flop tube mod. to
my Q.B. tank. The question: Is this small kit pre-measured to a 10:1 ratio
if I use the entire amounts of both parts or do I need to measure them to
insure they are of the proper ratio? Measuring such small amounts seems to
me a bit difficult.
Thanks in advance
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV- 8 Q.B.
N842S (res.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight Preparation
>
> Don,
>
> One of the best forums I attended at Oshkosh, this year, was Prep for
> 1st flight, given by the EAA. I will list from my notes, some of the
> things he said.
>
> Local tech rep has materials on 1st flight prep. Talk to him.
>
> 20% of ALL homebuilt accidents come on their 1st 2 flights. AND it's not
> mechanical. It's mostly pilot problems.
>
> Invite the local fire department to come see your plane before the 1st
> flight and then again for the flight.
> Alert first aid squad, the same way. Bonding helps when the chips are
> down.
>
> Walk the airport, the way some Indy racers do before the race. Plan your
> options.
>
> Fly only in "cones of safety".
>
> Have someone on ground with hand held.
> 1. You have short notes (checklist) for handling various
> emergencies. They have detailed list to read you. You say 'FIRE",
> they start reading the FIRE details.
> 2. Notice and report, take off speed, to ground person. They can
> remind you of it when it comes time to land. Add to it for safety. Never
> go below it.
> This is particularly helpful if you don't get to do stalls
> before landing.
>
> Get with a good instructor and fly the same kind of plane you intend to
> 'test'.
>
> If you are going to wear helmets and fire suits and gloves and chutes,
> start wearing and flying with them, well in advance. Things are
> different with that stuff on.
>
> Eliminate as many 'new experiences' from your 1st flight as you can.
> That covers a lot of ground.
>
> "Currency" is more than 3 takeoffs and landings.
>
> Be able to find all controls and switches blindfolded. If you have
> smoke, it will be like being blind.
>
> Plan for all emergencies.
>
> Write down your person minimums and show and tell them to everyone. They
> will help you curb your appetite 'to go'.
>
> 1st flight frequency is 123.45.
>
> Low speed taxi:
> 1. gear attached?
> 2. brakes dragging? Don't overheat them!
>
> When ever you are in the plane, be prepared for flight!
>
> They did not think much of high speed taxi work. It too often becomes
> 1st flight.
>
> If you don't need flaps to take off, don't use them on 1st flight. Just
> another thing that could go wrong.
>
> Chase plane not really a good idea. Do only if the chaser has lots of
> experience at it and then, keep him well above you (out of your way).
>
> After takeoff, continue down the runway as long as there is one under
> you. You might need it.
>
> Don't think about turning till at least 500 feet from the ground.
>
> Climb to 3 times pattern altitude for your testing.
> Test pattern speeds. Do a pretend landing. Do it twice before landing.
>
> 1st power reduction should be at altitude. Your greatest chance of an
> engine problem is when you touch the controls.
>
> "Reduce grip pressure"!
>
> That's the 1st flight according to the EAA.
>
> 2nd Flight:
> NOT THE SAME DAY AS THE 1ST! 1st flight takes a lot out of you.
> Generally the same as the 1st.
>
> Fly with full fuel. While fuel burns, partial tanks can explode.
>
> 2 mistakes that cause problems.
> 1. Changing the manufacturer's fuel system.
> 2. Changing " " harness mounting system.
>
> Please keep in mind that these are my notes, not Gospel. Get this info
> from the source (EAA).
>
> Barry Pote RV9a finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Proseal question |
STEVE-Its a perfect mix- -TOM
Whelan Farms Airport / CT01
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
e-mail: wfact01(at)aol.com
Telephone: 203-266-5300
Fax: 203-266-5140
President, EAA Chapter 1097
EAA Technical Counselor
RV-8 Lycoming IO540 (Getting Close)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Lord mount orientation??? |
Greg:
I don't have a Lord catalog but from your post I assume the J-6230-1 mounts are
the "straight" mounts (not Dynafocal). I wasn't aware Van sold them since they
are not in my catalog. If you really have these mounts (all 8 are identical and
cone shaped), then they have no preferred orientation.
However, if you actually have Dynafocal mounts, there is a definite orientation
required for them but they can be assembled incorrectly without you knowing they
are wrong.
Does your steel engine mount have all four engine attach bolts parallel to each
other or angled into the center of the engine?
Bill Marvel
flyseaplane wrote:
>
> " I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
> orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
> correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?"
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hello Greg,
>
> Last I checked there were no orientation marks for conical mounts. They just
> go in. What indication do you have that would make you think they need to be
> "oriented" ?? If you want a picture of mine I will send it to you - - send
> me an e-mail to my address above, NOT to the list. I'm sending this to the
> list since I have never heard of orientation marks - - - does anyone else
> have any idea what could be baffling Greg??
>
> Take Care,
> Linc
>
> -------------------------------------------
> Introducing NetZero Long Distance
> Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
> Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High Compression Pistons / Sensenich |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hey Brian, just remember you need a prop change too...Sensenich says high compression
pistons are a no-no. They're going to do more testing to see if the prop
can handle it, so you might end up ok...but personally I'd shy away from being
the test pilot of a 10:1 O-360 / Sensenich F.P. combo....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with standard O-360 and Sensenich...but sadly not flying for a long time
yet...
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: test flying
>
Hey, where did
you get the 10:1 pistons? Have a part number handy? I've been
contemplating boosting the ponies in my O-360 when the next crappy chrome
jug lets go. Milleniums and domed pistons. Ooh yeah.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
Albeqwerky, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal question |
do not get overly nervous about proseal. I will tell
you how to mix it so it sets perfect evrytime. Take a
large amount of the white portion about two tongue
depressers worth. Take the black can and mix it
internally first. this will get the black portion
normalized. (it will seperate like oil and water)
after stirring the black take a large tongue depresser
and scoop out about a large spoonful and start mixing
it with the white portion. What you are looking for
when both parts are mixed is a dark black color the
whiter the color the longer it will take to set up the
darker the color the quicker it will set. If in doubt
try it with a little sample and you will see the
different curing times according to the mix.
If you need assistance call me at 214-616-7836
Glenn
--- Steve Struyk wrote:
>
>
> I purchased the small (1 1/2 Oz.) proseal kit to
> seal the flop tube mod. to
> my Q.B. tank. The question: Is this small kit
> pre-measured to a 10:1 ratio
> if I use the entire amounts of both parts or do I
> need to measure them to
> insure they are of the proper ratio? Measuring such
> small amounts seems to
> me a bit difficult.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV- 8 Q.B.
> N842S (res.)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight Preparation
>
>
>
> >
> > Don,
> >
> > One of the best forums I attended at Oshkosh, this
> year, was Prep for
> > 1st flight, given by the EAA. I will list from my
> notes, some of the
> > things he said.
> >
> > Local tech rep has materials on 1st flight prep.
> Talk to him.
> >
> > 20% of ALL homebuilt accidents come on their 1st 2
> flights. AND it's not
> > mechanical. It's mostly pilot problems.
> >
> > Invite the local fire department to come see your
> plane before the 1st
> > flight and then again for the flight.
> > Alert first aid squad, the same way. Bonding helps
> when the chips are
> > down.
> >
> > Walk the airport, the way some Indy racers do
> before the race. Plan your
> > options.
> >
> > Fly only in "cones of safety".
> >
> > Have someone on ground with hand held.
> > 1. You have short notes (checklist) for handling
> various
> > emergencies. They have detailed list to read
> you. You say 'FIRE",
> > they start reading the FIRE details.
> > 2. Notice and report, take off speed, to ground
> person. They can
> > remind you of it when it comes time to land. Add
> to it for safety. Never
> > go below it.
> > This is particularly helpful if you don't get
> to do stalls
> > before landing.
> >
> > Get with a good instructor and fly the same kind
> of plane you intend to
> > 'test'.
> >
> > If you are going to wear helmets and fire suits
> and gloves and chutes,
> > start wearing and flying with them, well in
> advance. Things are
> > different with that stuff on.
> >
> > Eliminate as many 'new experiences' from your 1st
> flight as you can.
> > That covers a lot of ground.
> >
> > "Currency" is more than 3 takeoffs and landings.
> >
> > Be able to find all controls and switches
> blindfolded. If you have
> > smoke, it will be like being blind.
> >
> > Plan for all emergencies.
> >
> > Write down your person minimums and show and tell
> them to everyone. They
> > will help you curb your appetite 'to go'.
> >
> > 1st flight frequency is 123.45.
> >
> > Low speed taxi:
> > 1. gear attached?
> > 2. brakes dragging? Don't overheat them!
> >
> > When ever you are in the plane, be prepared for
> flight!
> >
> > They did not think much of high speed taxi work.
> It too often becomes
> > 1st flight.
> >
> > If you don't need flaps to take off, don't use
> them on 1st flight. Just
> > another thing that could go wrong.
> >
> > Chase plane not really a good idea. Do only if the
> chaser has lots of
> > experience at it and then, keep him well above you
> (out of your way).
> >
> > After takeoff, continue down the runway as long as
> there is one under
> > you. You might need it.
> >
> > Don't think about turning till at least 500 feet
> from the ground.
> >
> > Climb to 3 times pattern altitude for your
> testing.
> > Test pattern speeds. Do a pretend landing. Do it
> twice before landing.
> >
> > 1st power reduction should be at altitude. Your
> greatest chance of an
> > engine problem is when you touch the controls.
> >
> > "Reduce grip pressure"!
> >
> > That's the 1st flight according to the EAA.
> >
> > 2nd Flight:
> > NOT THE SAME DAY AS THE 1ST! 1st flight takes a
> lot out of you.
> > Generally the same as the 1st.
> >
> > Fly with full fuel. While fuel burns, partial
> tanks can explode.
> >
> > 2 mistakes that cause problems.
> > 1. Changing the manufacturer's fuel system.
> > 2. Changing " " harness mounting
> system.
> >
> > Please keep in mind that these are my notes, not
> Gospel. Get this info
> > from the source (EAA).
> >
> > Barry Pote RV9a finishing
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord mount orientation??? |
The J-6230-1 muffins are for a Dynafocal "Mooney M20" engine mount. They
are not designed for a conical engine mount.
Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>
> I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
> orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
> correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?
> Thanks
>
> Greg Hunsicker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | hi comp and sensenich... |
just for info:
this combo, IO-360 (180 or 200) and hi compression pistons has been
common in the aerobatic community for decades.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
> >I am wondering what you all have experienced.
> >
> >I have an engine (O-360) with 10:1 pistons, which means it is no longer a
> >certified engine. Does this mean I have to fly a 40 hour test period,
> >rather
> >than 25? (Prop is certified).
In my experience, they're not looking for certified engine or certified
prop, but *certified combination*.
Look at the TCDS for your engine and see if the prop is specified. If it
is, show the examiner. Might also help if your engine still has a nameplate
on it.
Based on my experiences, the apvd combo should get you a reduced test
period.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED |
Karie Daniel wrote:
>
> I had planned on buying this ELT now I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend the
> extra 20 bucks and go with the ACK E-01? Anyone every use the ACK ELT?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: New ELT Wont Shut Off ----FIXED
>
> >
> > Listers, for the Archives...
> >
> > Some of you had it right. Here is the story in detail.
> >
> > The AMERI-KING AK-450 uses a telephone wire to connect the unit to its
> > remote on/reset switch.
> >
> > This telephone wire is NOT a standard telephone wire.... although it looks
> > exactly like the one that you use for your phone.
I use the ACK E-01 ELT and have had no problems with it. I have not heard anyone
that has had problems with it, but I have heard a few others having problems
with the AMERI-KING AK-450. Sound like an easy decision to me!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-up/ W616 fit |
To 6 and 6A tip up builders: On my initial fit of the 616 forward canopy
piece, the plans call for it to sit 1/8 inch above the longerons. When I
shim it so that the top aligns with the firewall and subpanel, it sits a
good 1/2 inch above the longerons. I'm guessing that the subpanel is
mounted too high, but it is too late to change that now (riveted in.) If I
trim the 625 side pieces so that it mates properly at the rear, will I have
a problem down the road (other than an uneven gap visible from inside?)
An archive search indicates I'm not the first one with this problem, but
gives no solutions.
Jeff Point
RV-6, the first of many problems with the canopy
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up/ W616 fit |
Just get a bigger gap seal from JC Whitney or similar (which you need
anyway) and it should be fine. That measurement is not that critical to the
operation of the canopy, just a fit with the supplied seal, which is junk
anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tip-up/ W616 fit
>
> To 6 and 6A tip up builders: On my initial fit of the 616 forward canopy
> piece, the plans call for it to sit 1/8 inch above the longerons. When I
> shim it so that the top aligns with the firewall and subpanel, it sits a
> good 1/2 inch above the longerons. I'm guessing that the subpanel is
> mounted too high, but it is too late to change that now (riveted in.) If
I
> trim the 625 side pieces so that it mates properly at the rear, will I
have
> a problem down the road (other than an uneven gap visible from inside?)
>
> An archive search indicates I'm not the first one with this problem, but
> gives no solutions.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6, the first of many problems with the canopy
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord mount orientation??? |
Hi all:
Per Greg Hunsicker's response to me (below) and one from Boyd Braem (below
that), I am puzzled as to what we have here. Is this a dynafocal mount or a
conical (straight/parallel) mount that is involved?
If it is a conical (straight/parallel) mount, I know of no special orientation
of the rubber isolators. The ones I have seen and used in other airplanes are
all identical and there is only one orientation of them. In these mounts, all
four of the bolts that attach engine to mount are parallel to the longitudinal
axis of the airplane. In contrast, Dynafocal mounts have the engine to mount
bolts angling into the center of mass of the engine.
If it is a Dynafocal mount, there is most definitely a specified orientation.
Unfortunately it is often not described and results in the shock isolators
being installed incorrectly. They will go together perfectly but will
eventually result in engine sag.
The distinction here is that for each of the four mount positions, there are
two types of rubber isolators. One is hard and the other is soft. You can
feel this by squeezing them. In all I have seen and used, the hard isolator
has distinct ridges around its circumference to differentiate it from the soft
isolator which is smooth around the circumference.
The hard ones have to be positioned so that the weight of the engine is
supported by them when the plane is sitting on the ground. Specifically, this
means that the hard isolators are mounted on the aft side of the engine mount
for the top locations and on the forward side of the mount for the bottom
locations. If you picture the engine hanging there, you can envision that the
weight of the engine is supported by the isolators at these positions, which
is why you have to place the hard mounts there. The soft ones in these
positions will compress and take a set, allowing the engine to sag.
There are also some large diameter washers involved and these are often used
to correct minor engine alignment errors with the cowl. As I recall, my 8A
mounts from Van had a complete set of instructions that properly described the
installation as I mentioned above. What I don't recall is their part number.
A call to Van's would be in order if you did not receive sufficient info to
allow you to install these, isolators, washers and all..
Bill Marvel
Bill,
All 4 engine attach points are parallel and look like flat round
washers. The rubbers that Vans suggested may not be Lord brand but do
say Lord on the box as well as "vibration con iso" or something like
that. The rubbers that I took off were all rubber cones with no
embedded steele. The new ones look eccentric as the hole is not
directly centered and there is also a eccentric stop smash spacer that
goes between the two rubbers on each of the 4 mounts. Vans sends no
installation info with them. I'm sorry if my descriptions are hazy.
Thanks for your help.
Greg Hunsicker
"Boyd C. Braem" wrote:
>
> The J-6230-1 muffins are for a Dynafocal "Mooney M20" engine mount. They
> are not designed for a conical engine mount.
>
> Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>
> >
> > I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
> > orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
> > correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?
> > Thanks
> >
> > Greg Hunsicker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Irvine <wgirvine(at)yahoo.com> |
> I am attempting to paint the interior of my RV8. I
> have used Dupont Variprime self-etching primer and
> was using IMRON finish coat. The products were
> both purchased in California. 20 years ago I used
> IMRON on a Christen Eagle and it was different.
> Dried in about an hour, this stuff takes 15 or so
> hours to completely dry.
> But my biggest problem, I think, is cleaning prior
> to painting. I have been using a product called
> "Prep-All", a wax and grease remover made by Klean-
> Strip. If I use MEK it removes the primer. The
> paint fish-eyes, is repelled by the surface and
> looks terrible. I know I probably got oil on the
> primer from my air drill but how do you clean prior
> to painting and how do you know the surface is clean
> and ready to paint? What are you using to clean,
> rags, brush, papertowels?
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
> RV8
Rich,
I'm assuming you primed the parts long ago, and then
got oil on the primer from the air drill? (Hmmm,
sounds like a good reason to use an electric drill.)
Seriously, you have a problem... there is no way you
are going to get a good paint job if the primer is
contaminated. I know of no solvent/cleaner that will
remove the oil without removing the primer. You are
going to have to wipe it all down with lacquer
thinner, then follow with acetone. Paper towels work
fine. Yes, this will take the primer off. You'll
need to prime it again.
Don't use fish-eye preventer, or tack rags, or any of
that. Fish-eye preventer doesn't work well in Imron.
Tack rags can leave a residue that will give other
problems. Just follow the instructions on the data
sheet... DuPont says to clean the parts well (lacquer
thinner/acetone), shoot the Variprime, wait an hour or
so, then top-coat with Imron.
Yes, the new Imron is different from the old stuff;
it's a little harder to get a smooth even coat, and
doesn't cover quite as well. Mix it exactly as stated
on the can (the ratios are critical), then spray one
medium coat, thin enough to still be able to just
barely see the primer underneath. Look at a clock,
force yourself to wait 15 minutes, then spray another
medium cross-coat. For me, this gives a smooth glossy
finish that dries to the point where dust won't stick
in about one hour, and can be lightly handled in 4
hours or so. Remember that Imron is designed to be a
very slow drying paint; it doesn't stop flowing out
completely for almost 3 days. That's how it gets it's
incredibly smooth finish.
DuPont also says If you don't top-coat within 24
hours, then the primer must be LIGHTLY buffed with
very fine Scotchbrite. I can't imagine trying to
Scotchbrite the inside of an assembled fuselage, with
all those nooks and crannies. So for the NEXT
airplane you build, you'll have to divide all the
parts into two groups: (1) parts (or areas of parts)
that will be primed for corrosion protection and never
painted, and (2) parts that will be primed and
painted.
The first group you prime before assembly, the second
group you prime after assembly. Unfortunately, this
is incredibly tedious and time-consuming, but I
haven't figured out any other way to do it. Well, you
could do it the way we did it on the B-2 Spirit
bomber: prime and paint every part first, then drill
and assemble. Guaranteed not to ever corrode, but an
enormous hassle.
Remember that Variprime has very little zinc chromate
in it, and doesn't do very well for long term
corrosion prevention without top-coating. So now to
do it properly, you are faced with painting all of
group (1) parts with zinc chromate (or the new zinc
oxide), and all of group (2) parts with Variprime and
Imron.
Sorry to be so long-winded on this, just wanted to
help... and I've shot a LOT of Imron on my 310. Come
check it out somtime; I'm right down the road from
you.
Bill Irvine
Lancaster, CA
C-310
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: x n number update requested |
I think I was the one who posted the question a few months back. Here's my
understanding...it's not that you GET an "NX" number, you get a normal "N"
number like anybody else, but the regs ALLOW you to display "NX" on the
aircraft instead of "N". The registration is the same as if you got an "N"
number, it's purely a cosmetic thing on the exterior of the plane.
Could be completely wrong, who knows. I'll find out in about a year or so.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | x n number update requested |
Hi Dan,
I just had a friendly conversation with my DAR tonight (still trying to get
our schedules to match), and I asked him about that very thing. He's a DAR,
and also a DMIR for American Champion Aircraft, He also does lots of
import/export CofA's, etc..., along with being a certified test pilot, so he
know's his stuff.
According to him, you are right and wrong. You don't get an "NX" issued to
you anymore, but the requirement for displaying the NX is that your plane
has to be a "antique" or a reproduction of an antique, meaning it has to
have the appearance of an old airplane, I.E, cub, waco, stearman, curtis,
etc..
Anyway, hope this helps!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on inspection.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: x n number update requested
I think I was the one who posted the question a few months back. Here's my
understanding...it's not that you GET an "NX" number, you get a normal "N"
number like anybody else, but the regs ALLOW you to display "NX" on the
aircraft instead of "N". The registration is the same as if you got an "N"
number, it's purely a cosmetic thing on the exterior of the plane.
Could be completely wrong, who knows. I'll find out in about a year or so.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | RV-6/7 tip up canopy photo request |
Help!
I am slogging my way through the tip-up canopy fit, trim, fit, trim,
fit, trim.......(well, you get the idea) on an RV-6A. I've studied the
manual and canopy plans, read Will Cretsinger's notes on tip-up canopy
construction, used the Matronics search engine to find any RV-List notes
related to tip-up canopy construction, and browsed every RV-6/7 related
web sight I can find............and I'm still stuck on some of the
"finer points" (otherwise known as things undocumented in the plans and
manual) on making this thing fit together.
So here is my plea for help from those who have been down this path
ahead of me. Does anyone have any close up photos of the
Wd-616/Wd-625/C-602/C-603/canopy bubble area they can e-mail me or post
on a web sight?
I am having a tough time figuring out how the canopy transitions from
between the C-602/C-603/Wd-625 side frame to the top of the C-602 skin.
Earlier RV-List posts mentioned notching the C-602 skin where the
canopy passes through, and joggling part of the frame so the canopy
would lay flat. These were somewhat useful, but I really want to see it
before I commit to cutting any more canopy or C-602 skin....WAY too much
sweat equity in the canopy and canopy frame to screw anything up at this
point.
Thanks,
Steve Allison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: x n number update requested |
I was the one that re-asked the question a week ago. Thanks for all the
answers. Below is a government site that explains it pretty well.
It covers the whole N number thing.
http://registry.faa.gov/nnumber.asp
Barry Pote RV9a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: x n number update requested |
Here if the official information site for special N-numbers and it explains
about NX.
http://registry.faa.gov/nnumber.asp
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: x n number update requested
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> I just had a friendly conversation with my DAR tonight (still trying to
get
> our schedules to match), and I asked him about that very thing. He's a
DAR,
> and also a DMIR for American Champion Aircraft, He also does lots of
> import/export CofA's, etc..., along with being a certified test pilot, so
he
> know's his stuff.
>
> According to him, you are right and wrong. You don't get an "NX" issued
to
> you anymore, but the requirement for displaying the NX is that your plane
> has to be a "antique" or a reproduction of an antique, meaning it has to
> have the appearance of an old airplane, I.E, cub, waco, stearman, curtis,
> etc..
>
> Anyway, hope this helps!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on inspection.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: x n number update requested
>
>
> I think I was the one who posted the question a few months back. Here's
my
> understanding...it's not that you GET an "NX" number, you get a normal "N"
> number like anybody else, but the regs ALLOW you to display "NX" on the
> aircraft instead of "N". The registration is the same as if you got an
"N"
> number, it's purely a cosmetic thing on the exterior of the plane.
>
> Could be completely wrong, who knows. I'll find out in about a year or
so.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Pro-seal question |
Still not clear on the pro-seal question. I have the small kit that comes in
a cartridge with an internal mixer/plunger. how long is the pro-seal good
for after mixed in the cartridge?
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Smith" <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com> |
Try this gang, it is good, and should answer most questions.
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/enginehanging.htm
Good luck!...............Cheers................Gene Smith.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi all... Just got back from Reno and am back on-line... Did I miss
anything good in the last two weeks?
-Bill
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal question |
Ted,
No simple X hours answer here. ProSeal comes in 3 viscosities and 25 cure times.
You will find a rating on the label similar to that listed below:
B-2
B means that this is the thickest of the three types. It is intended to fill
gaps or make fillets with.
2 means that the expected working life (not the cure time) is 2 hours
Working life times vary from 1/2 hour to 24 hours.
Type A ProSeal is the thinnest of the three types. It is often referred to as "brushable".
It can be applied with a brush and is used to seal seams or fill very
small gaps. It is also brushed over the shop heads of the rivets in your fuel
tank.
Type C ProSeal is the medium thickness. It is intended to seal between skins and/or
ribs & bulkheads.
Van's sells the B-2. I think that they supply you with the thick ProSeal so that
you can fill the large gaps where the rear baffle, skins and outer ribs intersect
on your fuel tanks. You can "thin" any viscosity of ProSeal by mixing it
with MEK (methyl ethel ketone). Thus, one can of ProSeal can be used to accomplish
all tasks needed on your fuel tanks.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>Still not clear on the pro-seal question. I have the small kit that comes in
>a cartridge with an internal mixer/plunger. how long is the pro-seal good
>for after mixed in the cartridge?
>Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal question |
Ted:
Re. the kit that comes in a cartridge, It's pretty well intended to be used up
in one fell swoop after mixing. I have kept one in the frig after initial use
to slow down the chemical reaction and don't recall how long it lasted, but at
best it was a couple of days.
Bill Marvel
Ted Hultzapple wrote:
>
> Still not clear on the pro-seal question. I have the small kit that comes in
> a cartridge with an internal mixer/plunger. how long is the pro-seal good
> for after mixed in the cartridge?
> Ted
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal question |
Ted;
Once an internal membrane is broken and the plunger operated to mix the
"goop", the pot life of the mixture is underway - doesn't matter if the
stuff remains in the tube or not. Proseal cures due to an internal chemical
reaction NOT exposure to air. Think of it as a type of flexible epoxy glue
in this regard. The cure time should be noted somewhere on the packaging.
Different formulations are available for different cure times and
applications.
Make sure that when you mix that you mix thoroughly as per the directions on
the cartridge - you will find that operating the plunger takes a fair bit of
oomph and many strokes are needed to get an adequate mix that will cure as
intended.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A painter (and former Proseal user)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pro-seal question
>
> Still not clear on the pro-seal question. I have the small kit that comes
in
> a cartridge with an internal mixer/plunger. how long is the pro-seal good
> for after mixed in the cartridge?
> Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
No.
> From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:23:30 -0600
> To: ,
> Subject: RV-List: Back
>
>
> Hi all... Just got back from Reno and am back on-line... Did I miss
> anything good in the last two weeks?
>
> -Bill
> www.vondane.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
You mean you didn't apply for the FREE GPS offer last week by Van?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back
>
> No.
>
> > From: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:23:30 -0600
> > To: ,
> > Subject: RV-List: Back
> >
> >
> > Hi all... Just got back from Reno and am back on-line... Did I miss
> > anything good in the last two weeks?
> >
> > -Bill
> > www.vondane.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Canopy skirts |
I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem where
the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
others have done to deal with this.
Thanks,
Ron
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Pro-seal question |
Ted,
I used one of those and my estimate is 3-5 hours in the cartridge.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted Hultzapple <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pro-seal question
>
> Still not clear on the pro-seal question. I have the small kit that comes
in
> a cartridge with an internal mixer/plunger. how long is the pro-seal good
> for after mixed in the cartridge?
> Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | IFR and Autopilots |
Well, the verdict is in. All responses to my question on the Navaid
autopilot was greatly appreciated. All respondents except one liked his
autopilot. But the most informative answer came from John Furey. He has
flown behind both the Navaid and the Digitrak. These two autopilots are as
we say not cheap but won't eat you out of house and home to buy one.
I sent an e-mail to Tru-Trak for information on the Digitrak. Instead
of sending me reading material, I got a call from Jim Younkin in the middle
of the day. He answered every question I could think to ask. When I
mentioned NavAid to him, he didn't have anything negative to say about their
autopilot, he just informed me of the differences between the two. He then
faxed me the installation drawings for my RV4. I then went to his web sight
to find out who the hell Jim Younkin was. I always want to know at what
experience level someone is before I take their advice or buy their product.
I couldn't believe a man of that knowledge level would spend 15 minutes
on the phone with ME. If you haven't visited his web site, do so. I hope I
like the Digitrak, cause I ordered one the same day. Thanks John
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
September 12, 2002 - September 24, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nm