RV-Archive.digest.vol-nn
September 24, 2002 - October 02, 2002
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
I think your problem is similar to the one we had on the RV6A. I riveted a
little .025 thick tab on the outside of the front of the canopy skirt at the
bottom just above the rail. The tab, about one half by one half inch square
exposed ahead of the canopy, was bent inboard slightly so that when the
canopy moves forward, the tab causes the canopy to spring inboard.
Not very elegant, but works.
I don't know what might get in the way of this solution in this area on your
RV8, so it may or may not be practical.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: van Bladeren, Ron <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>
> I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
> seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
where
> the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
> forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
> but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
> and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
> preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to
the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Halkett <brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron,
Don't you have that thing flying yet? :-)
I had to trim both the al. (f-821??) and the
fiberglass skirt. I don't remember having to remove
any rivets?? You should be able to trim the skirt
almost all the way back to back to the canopy frame on
each side.
If you want e-mail me off-line and I'll e-mail you
some pics.
Brian Halkett
N184BH - 215hrs
Current RV of the Week
--- "van Bladeren, Ron" wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron"
>
>
> I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to
> the frame and everything
> seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an
> interference problem where
> the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft
> trailing edge of the top
> forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt
> overlapped the top skin
> but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to
> close it again, the skirt
> and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie
> on the same plane)
> preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2".
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin
> forward about 1/2" (up to the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last
> topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or
> the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and
> was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> RV-8A
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I have a garmin 195 for sale with all the accessories. I have been using it
in an RV6 and it works wonderfully. I am asking $595 OBO for it. Please email
me offline if you are interested.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Trim the forward skin to clear the fully closed and latched canopy
frame/bubble/skirt assembly. The windshield fairing layup will mold OVER
the forward edge of the skirt on both sides as much as you find cosmetically
appealing. A few layers of duct tape on the forward end of the skirt will
keep the finished fairing layup from scuffing the paint on the skirt as the
canopy slides into the full forward and locked position. The skirt tucks
under the fairing quite nicely this way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
Randy's gaining on me!
>
>I think your problem is similar to the one we had on the RV6A. I riveted a
>little .025 thick tab on the outside of the front of the canopy skirt at
>the
>bottom just above the rail. The tab, about one half by one half inch
>square
>exposed ahead of the canopy, was bent inboard slightly so that when the
>canopy moves forward, the tab causes the canopy to spring inboard.
>
>Not very elegant, but works.
>
>I don't know what might get in the way of this solution in this area on
>your
>RV8, so it may or may not be practical.
>
>Garth Shearing
>VariEze and 80% RV6A
>Victoria BC Canada
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: van Bladeren, Ron <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>
>
> >
> > I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and
>everything
> > seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
>where
> > the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the
>top
> > forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top
>skin
> > but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the
>skirt
> > and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
> > preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution
>is
> > to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to
>the
> > roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron
>rivet.
> > Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> > wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> > others have done to deal with this.
> > Thanks,
> > Ron
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron:
I had exactly the same interference issue and solved it by trimming the
bottom of the canopy skirt in the area of the interference. Works fine and
looks fine.
George Kilishek
N888GK
90 hours
>From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:47:07 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron"
>
>I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
>seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
>where
>the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
>forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
>but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
>and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
>preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
>to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
>roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
>Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
>wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
>others have done to deal with this.
>Thanks,
>Ron
>RV-8A
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Carburated IO-360 |
I am looking at having someone put together an angle valve motor for me and they
gave me the option of doing the standard fuel injection or going with a carburator.
I am curious if anyone out there is running a carburated IO-360 (angle
valve motor) and what their thoughts are. I guess it may come down to personal
preference - I would just like to hear some pro's and cons of going with either
setup for an RV.
Thanks,
Phil (8A emp, almost finished)
________________________________________________________________________________
List:
My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the testing
period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc. Hour
2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Inpection Tuesday !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Can anyone or everyone, advise me which bag of parts contains the screw
or is it bolt for the handle to latch attachment for the sliding canopy
along with the cotter pin? These are part numbers AN23-10 bolt/screw
and MS24665-132 cotter pin as shown on SC-1B drawing.
I did find the washers and castle nut. Just cannot seem to locate these
parts. A search of the bag parts list on Matronic's site doesn't show
this in any bags that I've received. I received my finishing kit in Feb,
it has the slider with the square side tubes on the canopy frame.
Thanks in advance
Marty in Brentwood, RV-6A slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron:
I faced the same problem you did and elected to trim back the canopy skirt
instead of trimming the 821 panel. It worked out OK but in retrospect I should
have cut the panel and left the skirt intact. The reason is just aesthetics,
but your suggestion is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Bill Marvel
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
Len:
I had my signoff in April and had no requirement to do this as part of the
paperwork. However, if the DAR says he wants it you'll have tol come up with
something.
For a first cut, try Van's chapter in the assembly manual on flight test. You
can probably put together an outline from that and then expand upon it for the
DAR's requirement. Later you can do what you really want to do per your flight
test plan developed in a more relaxed manner.
Bill Marvel
Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> List:
>
> My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the testing
> period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc. Hour
> 2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
>
> Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Inpection Tuesday !!!
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which parts bag |
Marty,
Same slider frame - got mine last July...
My bag 901 has an AN23-8 bolt...902-1 has the castle nut 907 has a
MS24665-283 cotter pin...closest that I could come to the exact match...they
were with my finish kit. Hope they fit - haven't tried them yet! Please
let me know
There is a listing for the exact cotter pin but it's in a bag marked for a
RV8A rear seat...which I didn't get.
Ralph Capen
Slider 6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Which parts bag
>
> Can anyone or everyone, advise me which bag of parts contains the screw
> or is it bolt for the handle to latch attachment for the sliding canopy
> along with the cotter pin? These are part numbers AN23-10 bolt/screw
> and MS24665-132 cotter pin as shown on SC-1B drawing.
>
> I did find the washers and castle nut. Just cannot seem to locate these
> parts. A search of the bag parts list on Matronic's site doesn't show
> this in any bags that I've received. I received my finishing kit in Feb,
> it has the slider with the square side tubes on the canopy frame.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Marty in Brentwood, RV-6A slider
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Len,
I have attached a spread sheet written by another RV8 builder. It is a BETA
version so if you find anything you think needs changing, please let me
know. The spreadsheet will eventually be posted on the www.eaa.org web
site.
My other suggestions are to get with your local EAA Flight Advisor and get
some Transitional Training. Your Flight Advisor has a testing manual and can
assist you making your first flight a safe flight.
You can phone Jan Streblow at headquarters to find who has an RV8 to rent to
obtain Transitional Training. or e-mail jstreblow(at)eaa.org
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
>
> List:
>
> My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the
testing
> period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
Hour
> 2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
>
> Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Inpection Tuesday !!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | Active experimental countries. |
Which country outside of the U.S., Canada, U.K., and Austrailia is most
active in building and flying experimental and light aircraft?
Hi Bradley,
I would be a little cautious in assuming that the UK is a hotbed of experimental
builders. I am an expat and have just returned from a somewhat depressing visit.
As soon as I arrived I visited my local airfield, Shoreham, in Sussex and visited
the PFA office. This was a nice office of several rooms with at least three
people in attendance. Clearly a centre of some importance and I was confident
of finding other RV builders at the field possibly even an RV9 builder such
as myself.
The chap at the desk seemed quite flustered when I asked if they had a list of
builders and when I explained my interest went off to enquire. He returned to
say that they didn't have any builders there at the field. I said that this
was a bit of a disappointment but that I would be pleased to visit other builders
also. He apologised for not being clear. THERE WERE NO EXPERIMENTALS AT
THE FIELD - UNDER CONSTRUCTION OR OTHERWISE!!!! Shoreham is an airfield serving
a local area with a population of perhaps 500,000 in one of the wealthier areas
of the country.
I am no expert on flying in the UK since I couldn't afford it whilst I lived there
but GA is fee based and I believe that fees are levied for contacting ATC,
(note controlled airspace begins at 3,000'), getting weather, filing flight plans
and landings. The cost of landing at Shoreham was $18 - maybe you can negotiate
a bulk rate for touch and go's! The cost of fuel and parts are inflated
by very high levels of taxation. I think that most people of modest means
who already have a licence and fly regularly do so out of private grass strips
and stay under 3,000' and avoid any contact with ATC.
This should be a real warning to us all regarding fee based GA and stealth taxes
such as VAT. This is now 171/2% and has reached this level step by step. BE
WARNED.
I'd think twice about visiting the UK if you're seeking a builder friendly country.
Good luck
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A fuse. N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | IFR and Autopilots |
> call from Jim Younkin in the middle of the day. He answered
> every question I could think to ask. When I mentioned NavAid
> to him, he didn't have anything negative to say about their
> autopilot, he just informed me of the differences between the
> two. He then faxed me the installation drawings for my RV4. I
> then went to his web sight to find out who the hell Jim
> Younkin was. I always want to know at what experience level
> someone is before I take their advice or buy their product.
> I couldn't believe a man of that knowledge level would
> spend 15 minutes on the phone with ME. If you haven't visited
> his web site, do so. I hope I like the Digitrak, cause I
> ordered one the same day.
I spent an evening tipping a few with Jim Younkin this past May, at our
Twin Cities RV Forum. Jim is a very interesting person indeed. He
knows more about autopilots than anyone around, period. He has been
developing stuff for over 50 years. He flew to our forum in an RV9A
equipped with three of his DigiTrak autopilots. What you see is what
you get with this guy. What was written above doesn't surprise me at
all. How many people do you know who start companies involving
significant development when they are in their 70's?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 210 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kitlog Pro" <info(at)kitlog.com> |
Wow. Sounds like a lot to ask for. I've never heard of a DAR asking for an
hour by hour plan. Most just ask for some type of test flight plan. If you
tell them that you are going by the flight test standards in AC 90-89A, I
would think that should suffice. It's an FAA publication that specifically
outlines how to flight test an airplane! My DAR was VERY thorough, and this
worked fine for him when he asked for a test flight plan.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
>
> List:
>
> My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the
testing
> period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
Hour
> 2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
>
> Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Inpection Tuesday !!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
DAR is an acronym for Designated Airworthiness Representative. A DAR is
responsible for assuring the presented aircraft is airworthy and meets
all requirements of the experimental certificate.
The DAR is not responsible for the test phase of the project. His
responsibility ends when he hands you the "pink slip" that states your
aircraft is ready for flight.
Sounds like your DAR is treading on ground that is beyond his
jurisdiction. I don't know if he is amenable to having this explained to
him by you or others that are better informed than him or not. However,
this individual needs to be educated as to how he is not responsible in
any way with how the test phase is conducted as long as it meets the
requirements of your temporary flight limitations.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
========================
Kitlog Pro wrote:
>
>
> Wow. Sounds like a lot to ask for. I've never heard of a DAR asking for an
> hour by hour plan. Most just ask for some type of test flight plan. If you
> tell them that you are going by the flight test standards in AC 90-89A, I
> would think that should suffice. It's an FAA publication that specifically
> outlines how to flight test an airplane! My DAR was VERY thorough, and this
> worked fine for him when he asked for a test flight plan.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Inspection
>
> >
> > List:
> >
> > My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the
> testing
> > period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
> Hour
> > 2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
> >
> > Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
> >
> > Len Leggette RV-8A
> > N901LL (res)
> > Greensboro, N.C.
> > Inpection Tuesday !!!
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
> Must be nice to have so much vacation time! Where do I get a job like
> yours....Ooops, forgot - I'm being forced to go to Hawaii next week for
> work!
> Cheers,
> Stein.
Dear Stein,
What a Bummer, want to trade time next week? You take a well deserved week
off, and I go to work for you on your behalf.
Konrad Werner
ABQ, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
----Original Message Follows----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:48:04 -0500
DAR is an acronym for Designated Airworthiness Representative. A DAR is
responsible for assuring the presented aircraft is airworthy and meets
all requirements of the experimental certificate.
The DAR is not responsible for the test phase of the project. His
responsibility ends when he hands you the "pink slip" that states your
aircraft is ready for flight.
Sounds like your DAR is treading on ground that is beyond his
jurisdiction. I don't know if he is amenable to having this explained to
him by you or others that are better informed than him or not. However,
this individual needs to be educated as to how he is not responsible in
any way with how the test phase is conducted as long as it meets the
requirements of your temporary flight limitations.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Sam:
5 years ago, I had to have a Flight Test Plan. The DAR was an old time
friend and he did not care. The FAA FSDO required the DAR to get one for
their review before the FAA would allow the DAR to issue the Airworthiness
Certificate. This appears to be one of those things that varies not only
from DAR but from FSDO to FSDO.
If you know of a regulation that states where it is not required, please
advise so that we can pass this info on to others.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,192 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
Hello all,
I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
Thanks,
George
________________________________________________________________________________
Cy:
Thanks for the info. I have done my transition training with Mike Seager.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Inpected Tuesday !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey Len...
You can DL a copy of the cards I used here:
http://www.vondane.com/flightdata/index.htm
Good luck on your inspection!
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
List:
My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the testing
period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
Hour
2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Inpection Tuesday !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>List:
>
>My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the
>testing
>period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
>Hour
>2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
>
>Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
>
>Len Leggette RV-8A
>N901LL (res)
>Greensboro, N.C.
>Inpection Tuesday !!!
You're almost ready to go! Great news, Len. My FAA inspector didn't ask
for a written flight test plan. He did want to know what my plan for the
first flight was going to be. I think he just wanted to make sure that I
wasn't going to perform a roll on takeoff followed by a low inverted pass or
some other form of stupidity.
You'll prove the airworthiness of the airplane within minutes. I mean, if
it climbs out, is fully responsive to control inputs, and can be stalled and
recovered normally, the rest is just working out the details. I would do as
he asks, be brief and concise, or even ask for an example that he might
have. You are ultimately responsible for the safe operation of the
airplane, so adapt as needed.
Maybe Kevin has a test profile of some sort? He's "da Man" in the flight
testing arena.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
301 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
When I fiberglassed the strip that goes over the wind screen, I extended a
"lip" that covers the "seam" between the forward fuselage skin and the
canopy skirt. Of course, to do this close the canopy and put electrical
tape (or better still, a sheet of clear plastic like what is used to make
transparencies for overhead projections) over the skirt portion (so the
fiberglass won't stick). This makes for a good "transition" into the canopy
skirt. Contact off line if you need more details.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: van Bladeren, Ron <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>
> I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
> seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
where
> the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
> forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
> but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
> and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
> preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to
the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
This particular DAR was flexible in some areas and extremely not in others.
Wayne Williams had flown his 8A in for the inspection and the DAR couldn't
believe that his passed without the fuel cap placard. He wants me to put the
data plate inside the plane and another one near the tail. Told him I had
never heard of that and he says that is the way most planes are done. The
tail plate only needs the make, model, & serial number.
I didn't want to argue too much with the guy. Most of the things he was
willing to listen on and that was good enough for me.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Flying in a week !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:48:04 -0500
>
>
> DAR is an acronym for Designated Airworthiness Representative. A DAR is
> responsible for assuring the presented aircraft is airworthy and meets
> all requirements of the experimental certificate.
>
> The DAR is not responsible for the test phase of the project. His
> responsibility ends when he hands you the "pink slip" that states your
> aircraft is ready for flight.
>
> Sounds like your DAR is treading on ground that is beyond his
> jurisdiction. I don't know if he is amenable to having this explained to
> him by you or others that are better informed than him or not. However,
> this individual needs to be educated as to how he is not responsible in
> any way with how the test phase is conducted as long as it meets the
> requirements of your temporary flight limitations.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
> Sam:
>
> 5 years ago, I had to have a Flight Test Plan. The DAR was an old time
> friend and he did not care. The FAA FSDO required the DAR to get one for
> their review before the FAA would allow the DAR to issue the Airworthiness
> Certificate. This appears to be one of those things that varies not only
> from DAR but from FSDO to FSDO.
>
> If you know of a regulation that states where it is not required, please
> advise so that we can pass this info on to others.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,192 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
I guess I would be more interested in seeing a regulation stating it
*is* required. There is no doubt that various "interpretations" of the
FARS exist among different FSDOs, even though some of the
interpretations defy logic. If our interpretation of the regs is based
on requiring anything that isn't specifically prohibited, then we have
opened a very nasty can of worms!
Having a test flight plan is highly recommended for a successful and
valid test flight phase; however, I think it would be hard (impossible?)
to prove per the FARS that possession of a written test plan is
necessary in order to receive the flight authorization.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sices" <msices(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator breaker/fuse |
I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp breaker for
the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat" inline
fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that Spruce
sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in advance
Mike Sices
RV8 wiring
Gurnee, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
List:
One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to label
the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I suppose
to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Flying in a week !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp breaker for
>the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat" inline
>fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that Spruce
>sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in advance
>
>
>Mike Sices
>RV8 wiring
>Gurnee, IL
>
A 35 amp breaker on a 35 amp alternator pretty much guarantees that the
breaker will be opening up under some conditions. A sample would be a
cold weather, low battery, start, where the alternator is going to be
putting out more than 35 amps. If it is a breaker you can get to, maybe
you could live with it. A 35 amp fuse would be unacceptable in my book.
Look for something around 45 amps. I personally don't see a problem with
a 60.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David_Rowbotham(at)dom.com |
09/25/2002 10:46:38 AM
Len,
I labeled the infinity grip using a prepared sheet of labels from Aircraft
Spruce. The format was white 1/8 inch lettering on black background. After
a year of flying they are still on and look as good as new.
David Rowbotham
N712CR RV-8a 125hrs
Lenleg(at)aol.com
Sent by: To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: RV-List: Inspection
09/25/2002 09:59 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
List:
One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to label
the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I
suppose
to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Flying in a week !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <avdub(at)mindspring.com> |
George,
I went thru the same transistion in building you are talking about without
any apparent effects. The gradual one time change from heated environment to
unheated is not a problem in my opinion. As for not being run for a period
of time my engine was delivered new in 1999 and fired up the first time in
2002. It was on the airframe for one and one half years in the unheated
hanger.I have completed my RV6A and close to 60 hours. I believe the
condensation is only a problem in the heat up and cool down cycles following
engine operation, and that is not usually an issue either if you get engine
temp up to 180 to cook out any moisture.
Dick Seiders
-----Original Message-----
From: George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:36 AM
>--> RV6-List message posted by: George Frost
>
>Hello all,
>
>I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
>engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
>garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
>the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
>condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
>regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
>removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
>remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
>have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
>
>Thanks,
>
>George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
George:
I don't think that heat or cold, alone, make any difference at all. The
worst thing you can do is run the engine on the ground and then shut it down
for a prolonged period. Moisture from combustion will then condense in the
oil and cause internal corrosion. That is why it is recommended to fly the
aircraft whenever you start the engine. In doing so, you create enough heat
for long enough to boil this moisture away.
As to your situation, you probably want to look into Lycoming's
recommendations for pickling an engine for long term storage on the
airplane. I would certainly not pull it off and take it back to your
garage. Many, many engines have to endure your scenario and somehow they get
through it.
Bill Marvel
George Frost wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
> engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
> garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
> the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
> condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
> regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
> removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
> remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
> have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
>
> Thanks,
>
> George
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron:
I did the same thing Rick did as described below. Some builders choose to have
a butt joint between the canopy skirt and the 821 panel in front of it. This
looks nice but also provides a water leakage path. Since I built my airplane
for transportation, rain and all, I made the overlap that is described. It
works very well.
Bill Marvel
Rick Jory wrote:
>
> When I fiberglassed the strip that goes over the wind screen, I extended a
> "lip" that covers the "seam" between the forward fuselage skin and the
> canopy skirt. Of course, to do this close the canopy and put electrical
> tape (or better still, a sheet of clear plastic like what is used to make
> transparencies for overhead projections) over the skirt portion (so the
> fiberglass won't stick). This makes for a good "transition" into the canopy
> skirt. Contact off line if you need more details.
> Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
Mike:
That's precisely what I did in my 8A and it works fine. Since I spent the
past 25 years with certified airplanes, I admit to following their basic
designs, flaws and all. 60 amp alternators have 60 amp breakers, ditto 40 amp
alternators with 40 amp breakers. I suspect there is a world of knowledge out
there as to why something else is preferable, but this design has worked fine
for me on many airplanes, including the RV.
Bill Marvel
Michael Sices wrote:
>
> I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp breaker for
> the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat" inline
> fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that Spruce
> sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in advance
>
> Mike Sices
> RV8 wiring
> Gurnee, IL
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
George,
Heat only if you can keep the temp. constant.
I recommend simply wrapping with blankets (not plastic) to prevent exposure
to rapid changes in air temp. outside the engine (i.e. in the mornings).
Rapid drop in temp. causes condensation on objects which do not change as
fast (i.e. metal). If you slow direct exposure, condensation is reduced or
eliminated. This leaves the metal subject only to the moisture in the
ambient air which does not seem to have huge impact except over long periods
of time (i.e. year or more). I had my fresh engine wrapped in unheated
environments (garage and hanger for 4 years with no noticeable corrosion. I
live in Portland OR so we do have moist air. I also remove the cowl and wrap
engine in the winter when usage is less frequent. I hate to think it might
feel a draft in the cold mornings.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: George Frost [mailto:ghfrost(at)earthlink.net]
Subject:
Hello all,
I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
Thanks,
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Thanks George. I thought about trimming the skirt but then it wouldn't be
inline with the leading edge of the canopy bow. That's why I'm leaning
towards trimming the top skin aft edge since it protrudes about 1" aft of
the windscreen/roll bar edge. After trimming, it would then line up with
the aft edge of the forward side skin.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally and George [mailto:aeronut58(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Sally and George"
Ron:
I had exactly the same interference issue and solved it by trimming the
bottom of the canopy skirt in the area of the interference. Works fine and
looks fine.
George Kilishek
N888GK
90 hours
>From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:47:07 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron"
>
>I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
>seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
>where
>the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
>forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
>but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
>and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
>preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
>to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
>roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
>Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
>wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
>others have done to deal with this.
>Thanks,
>Ron
>RV-8A
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Thanks Bill (again!). That's what I'll do.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Marvel [mailto:bmarvel(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
--> RV8-List message posted by: Bill Marvel
Ron:
I faced the same problem you did and elected to trim back the canopy skirt
instead of trimming the 821 panel. It worked out OK but in retrospect I
should
have cut the panel and left the skirt intact. The reason is just
aesthetics,
but your suggestion is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Bill Marvel
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to
the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>He is requiring me to label
>the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip.
> He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Does the FAA tell DARs to just go out there and "do your own thing"?
How about we ask the EAA to work on standardizing what these clowns
do? Better still, create a document that says what DARs and FAA inspectors
might do and publish it for all of us then we will know what to prepare for
and they will know what to require? Is this just too simple?
Cy Galley - who can we talk to at EAA?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
Want to add smoke to my RV8 project. Anyone have a name of a quality
tank/system builder?
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Wow. This is news to me. For the time being I'd type in the functions in
an Excel-like program . . . using small (6 pt) type. Print on white,
sticky-back label stock. If push comes to shove, you can laminate the top
surface, but regardless, cut them, peel off the back, stick them on the
Infinity. Another thought could be a small panel diagram that delineates
what each button does. Good luck. I guess I'll have to come up with
something on my Infinity grip as well.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
>
> List:
>
> One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to
label
> the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I
suppose
> to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Flying in a week !!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
That sounds like an easy solution, but I would caution all to "be carefull
what you wish for".
Yes, there is a large deal of variance between on DAR and another, but look
at that as a positive and not a negative. Anytime you want to Fed's to
regulate things better, you end up with a bunch of legal gobbelty-gook that
makes life worse.
I'd submit that an easier solution is to search out the "better" DAR's. You
are not required to use a local DAR, for example, I live in Minneapolis, but
am using a DAR from the Chicago office - why, for some of the very reasons
brought out below. My DAR has done MANY, MANY RV's, and hundres of other
homebuilts.
DAR's are no different in their discrepancies than Check Ride pilots, A&P
DME's, etc.. It's basic human nature.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis (Using a "Foregin" DAR for my inspection).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
>
>He is requiring me to label
>the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip.
> He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Does the FAA tell DARs to just go out there and "do your own thing"?
How about we ask the EAA to work on standardizing what these clowns
do? Better still, create a document that says what DARs and FAA inspectors
might do and publish it for all of us then we will know what to prepare for
and they will know what to require? Is this just too simple?
Cy Galley - who can we talk to at EAA?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
At this point, if it were me, I would find another DAR... This guy sounds
ridiculous to work with...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
List:
One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to label
the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I suppose
to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Flying in a week !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | 200 bhp wood propeller |
can someone recommend a wood propeller for my 200 bhp rv-8 ??
want cruise propeller.
have 72 " margie warnkee propeller today- but pitch too fine and runs at
2950 rpm and 160+ kts
appreciate help
regards terje kobro
norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Lord mount orientation |
Hi Greg,
Sorry for the tardy response, but I think this is the info you're
looking for regarding Lord J-6230-1 mount orientation.
When viewed from the cockpit (looking forward towards the engine
compartment), the index marks go as follows:
Left lower mount 10 o'clock (i.e., up and outboard)
Left upper mount 2 o'clock
Right upper mount 4 o'clock
Right lower mount 8 o'clock
I now have about 500 hard hours on mine and they continue to perform
quite well. I'll never go back to the 'cheap' conical mount bushing
again. I originally mounted my Lord J-6230-1 mounts without any
particular orientation and then changed then to the factory recommended
positions after about 200 hrs. I can't say that I noticed much
difference. Both ways were dramatically superior to the old conical
bushings.
For those who have a conical mount O 320 and are unfamiliar, I'd suggest
you check Lord conical mounts out for yourself. The J-6230-1 mounts
are more expensive than the traditional bushing, but effectively put
lots more rubber bushing material to work at dampening. Yet, the
overall mount is stiffer with less engine flex in acro.
My Hartzell CS had already been dynamically balanced to a high degree
which certainly helped. Still, adding the Lord mounts made a dramatic
difference in airframe vibration. They seem to be holding up OK, too.
Just one view based on my personal experience. As the saying goes, your
mileage may vary.
Mark
RV4
KAWO
________
From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lord mount orientation???
I just got the new J-6230-1 Lord mount bushings from Vans and I have no
orientation marks on my conical engine mount to help me install them
correctly. Can anyone help me make sure I get them installed correctly?
Thanks
Greg Hunsicker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Rv's in Italy or France? |
I will be in Italy and France the last part of November, any RV flyers there?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hal merritt" <merritthal(at)hotmail.com> |
For any one doing their electrical I have 8 Potter-brumfield w58 series breakers
for sale, 1 one amp 2 two amp 3 three amp 2 four amp. I will take 50 dollars
U.S. for all
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 200 bhp wood propeller |
To eliminate guess work, I would call the closest propeller manufacturer
near you and either have them make something for you or at least tell you
what you need. Since you started with a 72 " margie warnkee I would call
them and give them the performance numbers form the prop you tried, and
they can recommend one that will work best.
>--> RV8-List message posted by: terje.kobro(at)platou.com
>
>
>can someone recommend a wood propeller for my 200 bhp rv-8 ??
>want cruise propeller.
>have 72 " margie warnkee propeller today- but pitch too fine and runs at
>2950 rpm and 160+ kts
>
>appreciate help
>
>regards terje kobro
>norway
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Len: Check http://www.vansairforce.org/
It is the Western Canada Wing of Van's AF. They have detailed operating manuals
and flight test proceedure cards made up for RV-6's. Look for the links on
the home page above.
Gary
List:
My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the testing
period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc. Hour
2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Inpection Tuesday !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv's in Italy or France? |
Here is a name and email of a fellow I've been chatting with:
"jean-claude.chauvet(at)libertysurf.fr"
I don't know where, exactly, he is but he's building a 6A and seems to
be around several other RVs.
Have fun and don't eat too much Gellato!
- Mike
--- Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> I will be in Italy and France the last part of November, any RV
> flyers there?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 8220
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV
Ex-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Sam, You may be right, but if the DAR says that he won't sign until xyz
happens, xyz will happen or you will have to pay a different DAR for another
inspection or wait for a very long time for the FSDO to change his mind. AND
you still have to pay the present DAR. He gets paid whether you pass or fail
the inspection.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
>
>
> RV6 Flyer wrote:
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
> > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:48:04 -0500
> >
> >
> > DAR is an acronym for Designated Airworthiness Representative. A DAR is
> > responsible for assuring the presented aircraft is airworthy and meets
> > all requirements of the experimental certificate.
> >
> > The DAR is not responsible for the test phase of the project. His
> > responsibility ends when he hands you the "pink slip" that states your
> > aircraft is ready for flight.
> >
> > Sounds like your DAR is treading on ground that is beyond his
> > jurisdiction. I don't know if he is amenable to having this explained to
> > him by you or others that are better informed than him or not. However,
> > this individual needs to be educated as to how he is not responsible in
> > any way with how the test phase is conducted as long as it meets the
> > requirements of your temporary flight limitations.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> >
> > Sam:
> >
> > 5 years ago, I had to have a Flight Test Plan. The DAR was an old time
> > friend and he did not care. The FAA FSDO required the DAR to get one
for
> > their review before the FAA would allow the DAR to issue the
Airworthiness
> > Certificate. This appears to be one of those things that varies not
only
> > from DAR but from FSDO to FSDO.
> >
> > If you know of a regulation that states where it is not required, please
> > advise so that we can pass this info on to others.
> >
> > Gary A. Sobek
> > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> > 1,192 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> > http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
> >
>
>
> I guess I would be more interested in seeing a regulation stating it
> *is* required. There is no doubt that various "interpretations" of the
> FARS exist among different FSDOs, even though some of the
> interpretations defy logic. If our interpretation of the regs is based
> on requiring anything that isn't specifically prohibited, then we have
> opened a very nasty can of worms!
>
> Having a test flight plan is highly recommended for a successful and
> valid test flight phase; however, I think it would be hard (impossible?)
> to prove per the FARS that possession of a written test plan is
> necessary in order to receive the flight authorization.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Just do it. You and I know that they will quickly wear or fall off. It is
his interpretation and you can either do it like he requests or wait until
the FSDO either says yea or nay.
Don't sweat the small stuff.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inspection
>
> List:
>
> One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to
label
> the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I
suppose
> to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Flying in a week !!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Talk to govt(at)eaa.org
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
>
> >
> >He is requiring me to label
> >the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip.
> > He says it is a new FAA requirement.
> Does the FAA tell DARs to just go out there and "do your own thing"?
>
> How about we ask the EAA to work on standardizing what these clowns
> do? Better still, create a document that says what DARs and FAA
inspectors
> might do and publish it for all of us then we will know what to prepare
for
> and they will know what to require? Is this just too simple?
>
> Cy Galley - who can we talk to at EAA?
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Sam, You may be right, but if the DAR says that he won't sign until xyz
> happens, xyz will happen or you will have to pay a different DAR for another
> inspection or wait for a very long time for the FSDO to change his mind. AND
> you still have to pay the present DAR. He gets paid whether you pass or fail
> the inspection.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
Well......in any case, just put out the word locally that this
particular DAR is a bit flaky, and he will soon become irrelevant.
Sorry you have had to endure this case of nit-pickin'. Most DARs are
really good folks who know their stuff; however, the new technology
appearing in many panels is creating a situation where some of them are
going to have to be "educated".
My plane was the first Rocky Mountain Instruments installation my DAR
had seen, but once I explained their features, he readily bought it off
even though it didn't have the traditional faces with red "never exceed"
markings.
My concern is that silly stuff like your DAR is enforcing will become
mainstream if it isn't nipped right now; then future builders will have
to put up with even more nonsense.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Hey Sam, here's an idea for your web site. Why don't you compile a list
from us of RV friendly DARS by region and post them on a page on your site.
Put down what they charge too. Most of these guys are in it for the money
and its about time they have to deal with a little market pressure too. It
does work both ways.
Andy
> >
> > Sam, You may be right, but if the DAR says that he won't sign until xyz
> > happens, xyz will happen or you will have to pay a different DAR for
another
> > inspection or wait for a very long time for the FSDO to change his mind.
AND
> > you still have to pay the present DAR. He gets paid whether you pass or
fail
> > the inspection.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alernator Breaker/fuse |
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
Mike,
I had the same query, and couldn't understand why most of the information available
seemed to specify a 60 A fuse for the alternator lead.
Eventually Electic Bob advised that a 40 A fuse would be fine for a 35A alternator.
A higher rated fuse could be handy on the occasssional really cold day with
flat battery situation, or if you have a higher rated alternator.
Has anyone used a Cole Hersee 40A sealed circuit breaker on their RV ? It is standard
fitment as the main fuse on Harleys, is small, easy to mount and with stud
terminals ?
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Good idea! I'll run this idea past Doug Reeves since his site would be a
great place to have the DAR list.
It definitely works both ways. We had a local DAR who tried to rob one
of our builders with an exorbitant fee.......and nobody has seen that
DAR since.
Sam Buchanan
=================
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>
>
> Hey Sam, here's an idea for your web site. Why don't you compile a list
> from us of RV friendly DARS by region and post them on a page on your site.
>
> Put down what they charge too. Most of these guys are in it for the money
> and its about time they have to deal with a little market pressure too. It
> does work both ways.
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rv's in Italy or France? |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
I will be in Italy and France the last part of November, any RV flyers there?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Scott, contact Van's. They will provide a list of RV folks in Italy and
France, I know there are some in france as I checked this myself 4 yrs ago
prior to a trip there. Unfortunately, I did not have time to look anyone up.
Andy Johnson, N808JH res.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 09/18/02 |
| From: | <Ken.Powell(at)alltel.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 09/19/02 |
| From: | <Ken.Powell(at)alltel.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net> |
George
Don't bother with heating it. Likely most of the GA fleet reside in
un-heated hangers. Just rotate it by hand frequently to keep the Cyl. bores
wet with oil
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:49 AM
>--> RV6-List message posted by: George Frost
>
>Hello all,
>
>I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
>engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
>garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
>the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
>condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
>regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
>removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
>remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
>have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
>
>Thanks,
>
>George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Has anyone tried to upgrade Matco brakes with new linings and rotors???? Jim
Brown, Matawan, NJ RV-3 & 4, a20driver(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Leading edge rolling and drilling |
Regarding the leading edges of the rudder and elevators...
Is there any reason I can't drill the holes for the pop rivets to final size before
rolling up the aluminum? It seems like it would be much easier to drill on
a flat surface.
Since the holes are already pre-drilled, if they don't line up properly I have
much bigger problems..
Thanks.
-Geoff Evans
RV-8 rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Noooo! All you'll do is to scrape whatever oil is on the cylinder wall
off.
If you're set in wanting to rotate the crank, get a garden sprayer with
an aerosol tip, fill it with preservative oil, pull the top plug of each
cylinder, and load the cylinders up with preservative oil before you
rotate and again after you rotate. Then all you'll have to worry about
is scraping the oil film off the bearing surfaces.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Dugdale
Subject: RV-List: Re:
George
Don't bother with heating it. Likely most of the GA fleet reside in
un-heated hangers. Just rotate it by hand frequently to keep the Cyl.
bores
wet with oil
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
>
> >List:
>>
>>My inspection was today and the DAR wants me to write a plan for the
>>testing
>>period (40 hour). Example: Hour 1 - climb to x altitude, stalls, etc.
>>Hour
>>2 - Hour 3- Hour 4 through 10 ... on and on.
>>
>>Anybody had to do this or any type of plan I can follow.
>>
>>Len Leggette RV-8A
>>N901LL (res)
>>Greensboro, N.C.
> >Inpection Tuesday !!!
>
>Maybe Kevin has a test profile of some sort? He's "da Man" in the flight
>testing arena.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>301 hrs.
I'm working on my test cards, but they are a long way from being
finished. I do have links to a few sets of test cards on my Flight
Test Links site - look in the General "How To" Info section:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/ftlinks.html#General
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Cards was Inspection |
I used Bill's flight cards and found them very usefull. They really helped
out, and they are so easy to download. My FAA inspector saw that I had a
file cabinet of information, plans, records, pictures and receipts, and I
think he was afraid to ask to see my flight test plan, he knew I would dive
into the file drawer and show him one, then he would have to read it!
But we did talk about flight testing, he was trying to pass on some good
common sense, that not everyone has enough of!
Bill, thanks for the cards, they are great.
Bob
>
> Hey Len...
>
> You can DL a copy of the cards I used here:
> http://www.vondane.com/flightdata/index.htm
>
> Good luck on your inspection!
>
> -Bill
> www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
> One more thing about the inpection by the DAR. He is requiring me to
label
> the buttons and functions on my Infinity Grip. How in the heck am I
suppose
> to do that. He says it is a new FAA requirement.
Make a drawing or photo of it in your Aircraft Flight Manual and label
it there. It would serve the same function as labeling the stick itself.
If it is a new FAA requirement, have him show you the regulation that
specifically lists labeling a stick grip. Is there a label on your
control stick that lists its functions? How about the rudder pedals?
Shouldn't give them any ideas.
My Infinity stick has its functions listed in the Flight Manual
according to the color of the switch. It was adequate for my inspector.
Sheesh. A man can get picky.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
Hello Yall
A 35 amp alternator may easily put out 45 amps at full output.
The breaker/fuse is to protect the wire, not the alternator or
other components. Wire sized for 60 or more amps with a 60 amp
breaker/fuse would be an acceptable way to go. IMHO
George Meketa
RV8 152 hours
> > I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp breaker
for
> > the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat" inline
> > fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that Spruce
> > sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in advance
> >
> > Mike Sices
> > RV8 wiring
> > Gurnee, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
FWIW, my 40 amp alternator never put out more than about 30 amps. That's
when the battery was almost dead, and would have every light and radio on.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator breaker/fuse
>
> Hello Yall
>
> A 35 amp alternator may easily put out 45 amps at full output.
> The breaker/fuse is to protect the wire, not the alternator or
> other components. Wire sized for 60 or more amps with a 60 amp
> breaker/fuse would be an acceptable way to go. IMHO
>
> George Meketa
> RV8 152 hours
>
>
> > > I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp breaker
> for
> > > the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat"
inline
> > > fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that
Spruce
> > > sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in advance
> > >
> > > Mike Sices
> > > RV8 wiring
> > > Gurnee, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Right, didn't catch the fact that it had been run. My engine was a fresh
rebuild, it had been buttered with an oil STP mix which had been used prior
to the rebuild during which it had set for a very long time. I was told
after receiving the engine to NOT turn the crank until I was ready to run it
or the preservative would be scrapped off. Cylinders are the most
vulnerable, good idea to spray oil into them some how.
-----Original Message-----
From: Wilson, James Mike [mailto:james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com]
Subject: RV-List: RE:
George,
Heat only if you can keep the temp. constant.
I recommend simply wrapping with blankets (not plastic) to prevent exposure
to rapid changes in air temp. outside the engine (i.e. in the mornings).
Rapid drop in temp. causes condensation on objects which do not change as
fast (i.e. metal). If you slow direct exposure, condensation is reduced or
eliminated. This leaves the metal subject only to the moisture in the
ambient air which does not seem to have huge impact except over long periods
of time (i.e. year or more). I had my fresh engine wrapped in unheated
environments (garage and hanger for 4 years with no noticeable corrosion. I
live in Portland OR so we do have moist air. I also remove the cowl and wrap
engine in the winter when usage is less frequent. I hate to think it might
feel a draft in the cold mornings.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: George Frost [mailto:ghfrost(at)earthlink.net]
Subject:
Hello all,
I have an RV-6 almost completed. It is now in an unheated hangar. The
engine which has not run for a while was previously in my heated
garage. I am concerned that if I don't get the aircraft flying and
the engine running normally before cold weather hits, I will have
condensation and corrosion problems. Anyone have suggestions
regarding heaters or other solutions? At present I am trying to avoid
removal of the engine to take it back to the heated garage. I
remember how much work and time it was installing it. Does anyone
have experience with add on block heaters ie Van's or Tanis?
Thanks,
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.sjhc.london.on.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: smoke systems |
Here's a link to a homebuilt system, FWIW...
<http://www.kcdawnpatrol.org/smoke.htm>
On Wed, 25 Sep 2002, BUTLER, FRANCIS wrote:
>
>
> Want to add smoke to my RV8 project. Anyone have a name of a quality
> tank/system builder?
>
> Francis Butler
> Butler Machinery Co.
> (701) 298-1758 direct
> (701) 476-3208 fax
> francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Regards, J.
flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , >230 hrs.
building: Sonex #325, engine probably Jabiru 3300/6/120hp
| J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
| SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
| London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
For every action, there is an equal and opposite government program.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lord mount orientation |
In a message dated 9/25/2002 10:49:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
motodd(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I now have about 500 hard hours on mine and they continue to perform
> quite well. I'll never go back to the 'cheap' conical mount bushing
> again. I originally mounted my Lord J-6230-1 mounts without any
> particular orientation and then changed then to the factory recommended
> positions after about 200 hrs. I can't say that I noticed much
> difference. Both ways were dramatically superior to the old conical
> bushings.
>
> For those who have a conical mount O 320 and are unfamiliar, I'd suggest
> you check Lord conical mounts out for yourself. The J-6230-1 mounts
> are more expensive than the traditional bushing, but effectively put
> lots more rubber bushing material to work at dampening. Yet, the
> overall mount is stiffer with less engine flex in acro.
With ALL rubber goodies (grommets, boots, isolators, etc.), the trick to
getting them to last, not lose their elasticity and not ozone crack is to
coat them generously all over with DC-4 silicone grease while they are nice,
new and supple. This is not to say that your new Lord mounts are not
superior to the generic brand, but whatever the original quality, the
rubber's longevity will be extended significantly just by doing this simple
act.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 566hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
Gentlemen,
I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since then I have gone
through two alternators. The alternator that is one the plane is the 14184
from Vans. The first one was from Vans ($99.00) the second one from Discount
Auto ($19.95).
Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one (14684) from Van's?
I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to locate it from the
parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number and NAPA says they never
heard of it. Does anyone know what car it's from? Does anyone have a better
suggestion?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Alternator |
Is it possible your alternator is simply running too fast? I looked into
this awhile ago and came to the conclusion that the alternator RPM should be
around 5500 or so. Work out the pulley ratios and see what the actual
operating RPM is.
There is quite a bit of other info about potential problems in the archives.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
> I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since then I
have gone through two alternators. The alternator that is one the plane is
the 14184 from Vans. The first one was from Vans ($99.00) the second one
from Discount Auto ($19.95).
>
> Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one (14684) from
Van's? I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to locate
it from the parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number and NAPA
says they never heard of it. Does anyone know what car it's from? Does
anyone have a better suggestion?
>
>
> Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Alternator |
Paul:
Give us something to start with. What is the failure mode? How long did they
last? What are the electrical demands on it? Is it a belt breaking problem,
a bracket breaking problem, a wire breaking problem (internal or external) an
overheat problem, a circuit breaker problem, etc.?
Bill Marvel
Paul Brown wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since then I have
gone through two alternators. The alternator that is one the plane is the 14184
from Vans. The first one was from Vans ($99.00) the second one from Discount
Auto ($19.95).
>
> Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one (14684) from Van's?
I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to locate it from
the parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number and NAPA says they
never heard of it. Does anyone know what car it's from? Does anyone have a better
suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Alternator |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Bob Nuckolls says the alternater can't be ran to fast. Should run at
least fast enough at idle to keep the aircraft from needing to use the
battery while on the ground. Talk to him. Aeroelectric
(bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net).
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
> Is it possible your alternator is simply running too fast? I looked
> into
> this awhile ago and came to the conclusion that the alternator RPM
> should be
> around 5500 or so. Work out the pulley ratios and see what the
> actual
> operating RPM is.
>
> There is quite a bit of other info about potential problems in the
> archives.
>
> Garth Shearing
> VariEze and 80% RV6A
> Victoria BC Canada
>
>
> > I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since
> then I
> have gone through two alternators. The alternator that is one the
> plane is
> the 14184 from Vans. The first one was from Vans ($99.00) the second
> one
> from Discount Auto ($19.95).
> >
> > Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one
> (14684) from
> Van's? I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to
> locate
> it from the parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number
> and NAPA
> says they never heard of it. Does anyone know what car it's from?
> Does
> anyone have a better suggestion?
> >
> >
> > Paul
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Kelley" <check6(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Kit For sale - $12000.00! |
Well, I must part with my project. I got short on time, funds, and patients.
I would love to finish it, but I just can't seem to find any of the above.
Currently this project is in storage in Cumming Georgia, which is north east
of Atlanta.
RV6A - Approx: 1000hrs completed, $12000.00
This project is ready for the finishing kit to be ordered. That would give
you just enough time to complete the odds and ends left open at this point.
Empennage 90% complete, Needs Fiberglass tips attached & electric trim
finished.
Wings are 95% complete, bottom skin left un-riveted, Tips needs attaching.
Fuselage mostly done, Upright, Seats done, Floors Done. Instrument panel
not cut.
Primed inside and under lapping skins with Sherwinn Williams Wash Primer.
I have information and pictures posted at
http://users.adelphia.net/~check6/rv6a/index.htm .
Any questions, please let me know.
Thanks
Jim Kelley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared1(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Alternator |
I've had some alternator problems, they all went away when I switched to a
Mark Landoll automotive (Nissan I think) alternator. Real nice unit and it
comes with an external regulator attached, for $75. A possible reason for
going throught alternators may be a lack of cooling, installing a bast tube
is suppose to help.
Bob
> I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since then I
have gone through two alternators. The alternator that is one the plane is
the 14184 from Vans. The first one was from Vans ($99.00) the second one
from Discount Auto ($19.95).
>
> Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one (14684) from
Van's? I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to locate
it from the parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number and NAPA
says they never heard of it. Does anyone know what car it's from? Does
anyone have a better suggestion?
>
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
I could be wrong but I ***THINK*** those alternators are supplied to Van's
by a company and that they are "re-worked". Seems I called about the plug on
the back of the 35A model and was given the number of the guy.
If my memory is correct I called him and he said I would not find it at the
local auto parts store.
Maybe I dreamed this but I think that was the case.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Brown
> Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 2:16 PM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Alternator
>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have a small problem. I bought my -6 in Jan of this year, Since
> then I have gone through two alternators. The alternator that is
> one the plane is the 14184 from Vans. The first one was from Vans
> ($99.00) the second one from Discount Auto ($19.95).
>
> Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one
> (14684) from Van's? I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator.
> I have tried to locate it from the parts houses but Pep Boy says
> that it is a NAPA number and NAPA says they never heard of it.
> Does anyone know what car it's from? Does anyone have a better suggestion?
>
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel System Schematic |
| From: | "Martin Hone" <martin.hone(at)tradergroup.com.au> |
Hi Listers,
I have a schematic of my fuel system if anyone is interested.
It has the wing-root mounted gascolator and boost pump, with a vapor return line
to the tank. I can supply digital pic of the wing root setup as well. Contact
me off-line.
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Moving an RV (well...actually moving the parts) |
A question for the assembled multitudes...
I'm moving to the south Wayne County, Michigan area soon, and I'm going to be hauling
a U-haul load of mostly boxed "stuff" (books...lotsa books...clothes...etc).
My RV tail section is finished and I've riveted together the
skeleton of the left wing...and drilled/dimpled the skins to the ribs. Right wing
is still in pieces and I don't have the fuse or finish kit.
Has anyone tried moving assembled or semi-assembled parts by simply laying the
pieces on top of boxes? Natch, I'd have to figure out a way to keep the parts
from shifting side-to-side, and keep them separated, but it seems to me
as though with a bit of padding, that having the parts on top of the boxes might
be a workable (and cheap) way to truck the parts, rather than having to build
a cradle or jig for them.
Opinions, pro/con solicited and welcomed.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (wish I had it finished so I could FLY it up there...*sigh*)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm posting for a friend who needs to reprop an o-320 powered RV-4. He
wants a FP wood, and has settled on an Ed Sterba prop, but wanted to
know if there was any significant history of problems, etc. before
ordering..
Thanks
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Panels for RV-7/9 slider builders |
Any RV-7/9 builders who wonder how they are going to get to the back of
their instrument panels to install and or service their instruments
should check out http://www.affordablepanels.com/
Over the years I have had to lay on the floor in my car to get behind
the instrument panel to replace a bulb or look for a rattle. As you are
probably already aware, that is no fun. I saw an ad for a new removable
panel
for RV-7/9 sliders and decided that I had to have one. I placed the
order last week and today the "Brown truck" pulled up in front of my
house with my new purchase. Although I did not see any damage on the
shipping box, I was anxious to get the panel out of the box to make sure
that everything had arrived in one piece as I have had some bad
experiences in the past. The excellent packing job assured that the
panel arrived in first class condition. The panel looks even BETTER
than on the affordable panel web page and the pictures don't do it
justice. The panel pieces, being laser cut, fit together perfectly.
This looks like something that was made for the space shuttle. All of
the hardware including the clecoes used to install the panel was there.
I also purchased the sub panel for the switches, which is easy to remove
to get to the back of the switches for servicing. I am extremely
pleased with the panel and I can't wait to install the
panel in my "9". I'll post pictures on my web site as soon as I install
it in my airplane
Jim Streit
90073
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)us.ibm.com> |
09/26/2002 09:37:42 PM
Need help bucking rivets in the San Jose area? So do I. Let's help each
other get that darn thing out of the garage!
Sam Ray
str(at)us.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
Paul
My point is that the breaker/fuse amperage should be at least the
actual total output of the alternator, not the advertised output, and
not more than the capacity of the wire. Oversizing the breaker/fuse
along with the wire is an acceptable way to go.
I true 40 amp alternator should put out at least 40 amps. I ran
my advertised as 35 amp Vans alternator on a test bench and
it put out just over 40 amps full fielded. It had 120 hours on it
when I got it and now has 150 more. If it craps out I may go to
a B&C. With wiring and a breaker for 60 amps it would be
an easy upgrade. If the wire was too small for the new output it
would have to be upsized along with the breaker/fuse.
How was your ampmeter wired? As a true ampmeter showing
current to and from the battery or as a load meter showing actual
alternator output current? You may never see actual alternator
output when wired in the standard ampmeter configuration. You
would have to add up all items drawing current on the alternator side
of the meter/shunt and add them to the positive charge meter reading
to get current alternator output. When wired as a loadmeter you install
the meter/shunt in the alternator output line. This will indicate true
alternator output, but no meter indication of battery charge or discharge
rate. Both systems have advantages and disadvantages. The ideal way
may be to have two shunts and a switch to go from one to the other.
You now have both systems with only one amp/load meter.
George Meketa
RV-8, 152 hours
> FWIW, my 40 amp alternator never put out more than about 30 amps. That's
> when the battery was almost dead, and would have every light and radio on.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator breaker/fuse
>
>
> >
> > Hello Yall
> >
> > A 35 amp alternator may easily put out 45 amps at full output.
> > The breaker/fuse is to protect the wire, not the alternator or
> > other components. Wire sized for 60 or more amps with a 60 amp
> > breaker/fuse would be an acceptable way to go. IMHO
> >
> > George Meketa
> > RV8 152 hours
> >
> >
> > > > I have a 35 amp alternator (from Vans) - should I use a 35 amp
breaker
> > for
> > > > the output? The reason I ask is I have these aeroelectric "fat"
> inline
> > > > fuses, but note that they are rated at 60amps. I also note that
> Spruce
> > > > sells "60/70 amp circuit breakers for alternators." Thanks in
advance
> > > >
> > > > Mike Sices
> > > > RV8 wiring
> > > > Gurnee, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panels for RV-7/9 slider builders |
Sorry to be a skeptic, but I see a potential problem here. The panel layout
with the removable subpanels are a great idea. Where I think it could fault
is that the forward fuselage skin determines the shape of the top of the
panel. If you have a plug and play instrument panel, it may or may not fit
underneath your top skin. When Steve Davis did my panel, we had to keep
adjusting the radius of the top of the panel so that it would fit the same
all the way around, beneath the skin. That is why Steve doesn't do pre cut
instrument panels, because they all fit differently.
Food for thought anyway. Where this guy would do great is if you sent your
pre cut panel to him to modify. I think that would be less headache.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Streit" <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panels for RV-7/9 slider builders
>
>
> Any RV-7/9 builders who wonder how they are going to get to the back of
> their instrument panels to install and or service their instruments
> should check out http://www.affordablepanels.com/
> Over the years I have had to lay on the floor in my car to get behind
> the instrument panel to replace a bulb or look for a rattle. As you are
> probably already aware, that is no fun. I saw an ad for a new removable
> panel
> for RV-7/9 sliders and decided that I had to have one. I placed the
> order last week and today the "Brown truck" pulled up in front of my
> house with my new purchase. Although I did not see any damage on the
> shipping box, I was anxious to get the panel out of the box to make sure
> that everything had arrived in one piece as I have had some bad
> experiences in the past. The excellent packing job assured that the
> panel arrived in first class condition. The panel looks even BETTER
> than on the affordable panel web page and the pictures don't do it
> justice. The panel pieces, being laser cut, fit together perfectly.
> This looks like something that was made for the space shuttle. All of
> the hardware including the clecoes used to install the panel was there.
> I also purchased the sub panel for the switches, which is easy to remove
> to get to the back of the switches for servicing. I am extremely
> pleased with the panel and I can't wait to install the
> panel in my "9". I'll post pictures on my web site as soon as I install
> it in my airplane
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073
> Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
George:
>
> I ran
> my advertised as 35 amp Vans alternator on a test bench and
> it put out just over 40 amps full fielded.
Out of curiosity, if a 35 amp alternator can put out 40 amps with full buss
voltage on the field, does doing so shorten its life any? Does doing so cause
excess heat? What determines the life of the alternator - bearing wear, brush
wear, field coil overheating, stator overheating, rectifier failure? Something
else? Will an alternator that is required to produce only 50% of its rated
capacity last longer than if it is producing its full capacity? Am interested
in any info you can provide.
Bill Marvel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV-6 Alternator |
How about the other one (14684) from Van's?
-
Please send a picture of it to me at my e-mail address. I work at AutoZone
and I'll match it up for you. I need FRONT and BACK pictures. 14684 is a
good number of an Autozone Import alternator, but I won't say that is the
same alternator unless I can compare pictures.
Later,
Linc
flyseaplane(at)netzero.net
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba props |
I had a Sterba prop on my first RV6A, now owned by my friend. I feel it was
the smoothest best performing prop I have flown behind. It was delivered on
time and inexpensive compared to the others. Ed was always available to
answer questions. That was 3~4 years ago and I assume things are the same.
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern Darley,II" <vern(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RV Hanger and Co-op at Falcon Field, Peachtree City, GA |
RV Hanger and Co-op at Falcon Field, Peachtree City, GA
"I have a short time in which to find 8-10 RV owners/builders to move into a large
brand new hanger at Falcon Field here in Peachtree City, GA. Other aircraft
owners are making offers.The first one with a deposit gets it. It is next to
the new Aircraft Spruce location, so parts and camaraderie show be plentiful.
I would anticipate installing a basic shop and having some tools, benches, jigs,
electricity, and air available to share. Depending on the number we can squeeze
in, monthly fees should be $200-225 each. We can encourage and help one another.
We can develop a check out program. Formation and acro training could
take place. Or, we could even sit around and tell warstories, and 'advise' while
others work!
If you or someone you know is in the South Atlanta region and has a flying RV
or is building one in a garage or basement, now is the time to lock in a spot.
Please pass this on. Limited time! Please contact me if you are interested. First
come-first serve. If not enough come forward, we'll loose this rare opportunity.
Email me ASAP. Day/time determines your spot."
Vern Darley
P.O. Box 2526
Peachtree City,GA 30269
cell 770 310-7169
vern(at)mindspring.com
T hanger T-18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Alternators are limited by their current carrying capacity of the armature
and the rectifier. This ultimately translates to heat rejection. The field
can usually take up to about 5 amps for any of them up to about 60A output.
I have seem some 110 amp units used in highly digital cars that had in
excess of 5 amps for the field.
Manufacturing wise they may use the same armature for both units with a
different rectifiers.
More RPM = more voltage which the reg then limits. So output is dependant on
load and current carrying capacity. Exceeding this causes heat, heat makes
things melt, etc. To stop more failures it you need to determine what
failed, then respond accordingly. This will require disassembly and testing,
and running on a test bench with a scope.
If either armature or field failed its probably too much load for the
cooling available, if the rectifier failed it could also be poor cooling and
vibration, if the reg failed it could be cheap or all of the above.
Also note that most internal regulators keep output voltage too high. I've
seen from 14.7V to 15.8V from a stock new unit. Lead Acid batteries like it
at exactly 13.68V, or Batt V plus 1V, higher V tends to shorten their life
span due to excessive heat. Its also harder on light bulbs and electric
motors as they are designed with a specific voltage in mind. The higher
voltage makes them run at a higher current = more heat than needed for the
job. Most digital circuits don't care as they self regulate input V.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba props |
I agree, Sterba props are very good, and the price is definitely right! Ed
has been great too. I didn't even buy mine new from him, I got it used but
never flown, and he said he will still re-pitch it for me for free if I
needed it...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ed Sterba props
I had a Sterba prop on my first RV6A, now owned by my friend. I feel it was
the smoothest best performing prop I have flown behind. It was delivered on
time and inexpensive compared to the others. Ed was always available to
answer questions. That was 3~4 years ago and I assume things are the same.
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Panels for RV-7/9 slider builders |
Paul,
No apologies for being a skeptic; however, before this becomes a concern to anyone,
I'll respond to your comment.
The scenario you describe is not as much of an issue anymore with the pre-punched
kits. True, with the RV-6, there were some differences between builders fuselages,
which affected the fit, but not with the new kits. This is the reason
Van's sells a pre-punched instrument panel for the RV-6 as a square (unfinished)
panel, so that every builder does its own fit. Furthermore, the possible
differences between fuselages of different RV-6s is the main reason why we do
not sell a Modular Panel kit for it.
We would like to stress to the list's audience that we have sold many panels to
date, and have yet to have anyone complain about the fit. As a matter of fact,
we are praised on a regular basis as to the quality and fit of the product.
The best way to judge a product is to see it in action. We welcome anyone contemplating
the purchase of Modular Panel to browse our website and/or call us
with specific questions. We are always happy to talk to builders/future friends
and answer any concerns. Our goal, from the start, was to produce a show
quality product and we believe we have done it.
Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
>>> azpilot(at)extremezone.com 09/27/02 12:15AM >>>
Sorry to be a skeptic, but I see a potential problem here. The panel layout
with the removable subpanels are a great idea. Where I think it could fault
is that the forward fuselage skin determines the shape of the top of the
panel. If you have a plug and play instrument panel, it may or may not fit
underneath your top skin. When Steve Davis did my panel, we had to keep
adjusting the radius of the top of the panel so that it would fit the same
all the way around, beneath the skin. That is why Steve doesn't do pre cut
instrument panels, because they all fit differently.
Food for thought anyway. Where this guy would do great is if you sent your
pre cut panel to him to modify. I think that would be less headache.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Streit" <wooody98(at)directvinternet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panels for RV-7/9 slider builders
>
>
> Any RV-7/9 builders who wonder how they are going to get to the back of
> their instrument panels to install and or service their instruments
> should check out http://www.affordablepanels.com/
> Over the years I have had to lay on the floor in my car to get behind
> the instrument panel to replace a bulb or look for a rattle. As you are
> probably already aware, that is no fun. I saw an ad for a new removable
> panel
> for RV-7/9 sliders and decided that I had to have one. I placed the
> order last week and today the "Brown truck" pulled up in front of my
> house with my new purchase. Although I did not see any damage on the
> shipping box, I was anxious to get the panel out of the box to make sure
> that everything had arrived in one piece as I have had some bad
> experiences in the past. The excellent packing job assured that the
> panel arrived in first class condition. The panel looks even BETTER
> than on the affordable panel web page and the pictures don't do it
> justice. The panel pieces, being laser cut, fit together perfectly.
> This looks like something that was made for the space shuttle. All of
> the hardware including the clecoes used to install the panel was there.
> I also purchased the sub panel for the switches, which is easy to remove
> to get to the back of the switches for servicing. I am extremely
> pleased with the panel and I can't wait to install the
> panel in my "9". I'll post pictures on my web site as soon as I install
> it in my airplane
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073
> Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator breaker/fuse |
Hello Yall
I will attempt to answer your questions. Some of the answers
are from experience and some from theory or common sense.
> Out of curiosity, if a 35 amp alternator can put out 40 amps with full
buss
> voltage on the field, does doing so shorten its life any?
At only 40 amps there is likely little extra heat to shorten alternator
life.
On a rebuilt unit the combination of parts installed can be from several
interchangable units and give a different output depending on this. If able
I will go to the alternator shop today, before leaving for Abilene, and ask
them what trends they see. I have no control of the actual max alternator
output of a particular unit, but must size the associated wiring properly to
handle it.
> What determines the life of the alternator - bearing wear, brush
> wear, field coil overheating, stator overheating, rectifier failure?
Something
> else?
It depends on the manufacturer and application. Certain designs have certain
pattern failures. I have no personal failure experience with Van's unit
except that many?? have reportes failures. What type of failure I do
not know.
> Will an alternator that is required to produce only 50% of its rated
> capacity last longer than if it is producing its full capacity?
This also depends on the manufacturer and output of the unit. On a 0-60
amp unit high percentage demands (up to 80%) may do little to lower unit
life. Units with higher amp output may be more failure prone under these
conditions. I used to never worry about letting the alternator recharge
the battery on older cars. After charging system work is performed on newer
cars, which often have very high outputs, I always fully charge the battery
before letting them leave the shop. Long term high output can shorten their
life
Hope this helps
George Meketa / ASE master mechanic and shop owner
RV8
> > I ran
> > my advertised as 35 amp Vans alternator on a test bench and
> > it put out just over 40 amps full fielded.
>
> Out of curiosity, if a 35 amp alternator can put out 40 amps with full
buss
> voltage on the field, does doing so shorten its life any? Does doing so
cause
> excess heat? What determines the life of the alternator - bearing wear,
brush
> wear, field coil overheating, stator overheating, rectifier failure?
Something
> else? Will an alternator that is required to produce only 50% of its
rated
> capacity last longer than if it is producing its full capacity? Am
interested
> in any info you can provide.
>
> Bill Marvel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | DAR page now available |
Thanks to Doug Reeves, guru-in-chief of the "Vans World Wide Wing"
website, and all-around nice guy, there is now a place for us to list
DARs with whom we have had good experience and can recommend to other
builders.
Here is the link:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/dar.htm
Hopefully this will become a good listing of DARs available to RVers
everywhere; this list is intended only for recommendations and is not a
place to blast somebody you don't like (I don't think Doug would allow
critical reports, anyway).
If you have a flying RV, and found your DAR to be a nice person who was
reasonable, thorough, and fair, and that individual has not already been
listed, please submit info to Doug so builders coming along behind us
can take advantage of our experience.
Thanks in advance for your support of the list,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
I was in on a conference call with EAA this past week and someone said the
FAA no longer does inspections. The local FAA inspector recently inspected
six homebuilts at no charge and seemed miffed when he heard about someone
else getting a DAR. Does anyone know if the FAA is quiting this or is it just
a time constraint thing?
Earl RV4
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Good idea! I'll run this idea past Doug Reeves since his site would be a
> great place to have the DAR list.
>
> It definitely works both ways. We had a local DAR who tried to rob one
> of our builders with an exorbitant fee.......and nobody has seen that
> DAR since.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> =================
>
> Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey Sam, here's an idea for your web site. Why don't you compile a list
> > from us of RV friendly DARS by region and post them on a page on your site.
> >
> > Put down what they charge too. Most of these guys are in it for the money
> > and its about time they have to deal with a little market pressure too. It
> > does work both ways.
> >
> > Andy
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
James.......I would highly recommend Ed Sterba. He is completely honest, stands
behind his props, and produces an excellent product.
I have a Sterba prop on my Cygnet, and it performs very well. I bought the plane
used and moved it to a higher elevation than it was originally propped for.
Even though I didn't buy the propellor from him, he repitched it, refinished
it, and mailed it back to me........No Charge. Not even for shipping.
A friend has a Sterba on his RV-4 and is equally pleased. The prices are reasonable
as well.
Gary
RV-9A project
I'm posting for a friend who needs to reprop an o-320 powered RV-4. He
wants a FP wood, and has settled on an Ed Sterba prop, but wanted to
know if there was any significant history of problems, etc. before
ordering..
Thanks
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving an RV (well...actually moving the parts) |
John,
I've moved my RV6A project cross country 3 times in the last 5 years, twice
using a U-Haul trailer. The finished parts (horiz/vert stabs, elevators,
ailerons, flaps) I've done just as you are asking - laid them on top of
boxes and other stuff. Just wrapped them individually in blankets, towels,
bubble wrap, or whatever was available and that worked fine. I tried a
short distance without wrapping and found the skins got scuffed up even
driving on roads I thought were smooth so I recommend wrapping and taping at
least with towels or something.
Good luck with the move!
Chris Hand
RV6A, working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: RV-List: Moving an RV (well...actually moving the parts)
>
> A question for the assembled multitudes...
>
> I'm moving to the south Wayne County, Michigan area soon, and I'm going to
be hauling a U-haul load of mostly boxed "stuff" (books...lotsa
books...clothes...etc). My RV tail section is finished and I've riveted
together the
> skeleton of the left wing...and drilled/dimpled the skins to the ribs.
Right wing is still in pieces and I don't have the fuse or finish kit.
>
> Has anyone tried moving assembled or semi-assembled parts by simply laying
the pieces on top of boxes? Natch, I'd have to figure out a way to keep the
parts from shifting side-to-side, and keep them separated, but it seems to
me
> as though with a bit of padding, that having the parts on top of the boxes
might be a workable (and cheap) way to truck the parts, rather than having
to build a cradle or jig for them.
>
> Opinions, pro/con solicited and welcomed.
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (wish I had it finished so I could FLY it up there...*sigh*)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
It all depends on the work load and which FDSO your airplane resides. Cy
Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
>
> I was in on a conference call with EAA this past week and someone said the
> FAA no longer does inspections. The local FAA inspector recently inspected
> six homebuilts at no charge and seemed miffed when he heard about someone
> else getting a DAR. Does anyone know if the FAA is quiting this or is it
just
> a time constraint thing?
> Earl RV4
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> >
> > Good idea! I'll run this idea past Doug Reeves since his site would be a
> > great place to have the DAR list.
> >
> > It definitely works both ways. We had a local DAR who tried to rob one
> > of our builders with an exorbitant fee.......and nobody has seen that
> > DAR since.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
> > =================
> >
> > Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Sam, here's an idea for your web site. Why don't you compile a
list
> > > from us of RV friendly DARS by region and post them on a page on your
site.
> > >
> > > Put down what they charge too. Most of these guys are in it for the
money
> > > and its about time they have to deal with a little market pressure
too. It
> > > does work both ways.
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 9/27/02 1:14:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
efortner(at)vnet.net writes:
<< I was in on a conference call with EAA this past week and someone said the
FAA no longer does inspections. The local FAA inspector recently inspected
six homebuilts at no charge and seemed miffed when he heard about someone
else getting a DAR. Does anyone know if the FAA is quiting this or is it just
a time constraint thing?
Earl RV4 >>
Call your local FSDO.
Some have a policy that they don't inspect homebuilts.
Others will inspect it "when they have time" (i.e. They may never get to it.)
Others are very helpful.
Even if "your" FSDO or MIDO has a policy against inspecting homebuilts, you
might be surprised at the service you can get if you know the right person or
know someone who knows the right person...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Flying (long) |
Congratulations Austin.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff (forever it seems)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Question: when to drill F-688 gusset? |
I've got a question about drilling the F-688 aft top fuselage
gusset...when's the best time to drill that sucker? RV-7 tip-up in case
that matters.
I assume once the skeleton of the aft fuselage is together and square, you
can lay it right on there and back-drill outward, but I figured I'd ask in
case you're supposed to drill it sooner than that.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Garmin 195 for sale |
Listers,
I have a garmin 195 for sale with all the accessories. I have been using it
in an RV6 and it works wonderfully. I am asking $550 OBO for it. Please email
me offline if you are interested.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
For anyone that was considering the Superior XP-360 engine kit, they have
quit selling it. Now they only sell the completed engine.
As I was interested in this and it's no longer available, has anyone heard
of, or had any experience with the outfit that was featured in last month's
Kitplanes, ECI? They are advertising an O-360 kit, but I can't say I have
ever heard of them.
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
RV-6 (engine-less)
Denver (is that snow?!?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
It's my understanding that ECI has been doing the same sort of "stuff"
that Superior is known for, but longer. My O-360 was built by a local
A&P using new components from ECI. The A&P spoke highly of
them.........FWIW, but I haven't run the engine yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc
> Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 12:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: engines
>
>
>
> For anyone that was considering the Superior XP-360 engine
> kit, they have quit selling it. Now they only sell the
> completed engine.
>
> As I was interested in this and it's no longer available, has
> anyone heard of, or had any experience with the outfit that
> was featured in last month's Kitplanes, ECI? They are
> advertising an O-360 kit, but I can't say I have ever heard of them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 (engine-less)
> Denver (is that snow?!?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi All,
I don't have an ECI engine, but I have an Uncle who builds experimetal
engines for lots of the "hotrod" (Lancair/Glassair) crowd. He's built many
engins, and swears by the ECI components. Most of his engines are wayyyyy
above normal rated horsepower. After building and "rebuilding" lots of
engines over the years, he claims the ECI cylinders are the best. I did a
lot of research on engines before I bought one, and when I need to overhaul
mine it will get ECI parts. He had a lot of bad cylinders from Lyc,
Continental, Superior, and ECI, and showed me how the ECI cylinders were
better (in his opinion).
Take it for what it's worth, but at least coming from a very experience
"old-timer" engine man, I'll take his word.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Inspection next weekend! Getting REAL anxious to fly!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: engines
It's my understanding that ECI has been doing the same sort of "stuff"
that Superior is known for, but longer. My O-360 was built by a local
A&P using new components from ECI. The A&P spoke highly of
them.........FWIW, but I haven't run the engine yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc
> Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 12:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: engines
>
>
> For anyone that was considering the Superior XP-360 engine
> kit, they have quit selling it. Now they only sell the
> completed engine.
>
> As I was interested in this and it's no longer available, has
> anyone heard of, or had any experience with the outfit that
> was featured in last month's Kitplanes, ECI? They are
> advertising an O-360 kit, but I can't say I have ever heard of them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 (engine-less)
> Denver (is that snow?!?)
________________________________________________________________________________
SoCAL-RVlist
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight info wanted |
Ok so this isn't RV related....but I used the word RV (twice now) in
a sentence, so I guess it's ok and it is at least flying related.
I'm looking for an ultralight kit to build for a friend (my RV is
flying fine, thank you) and I don't have a good idea of what kits are
out there right now.
If you have some suggestions of places I could start I would appreciate it.
PLEASE EMAIL ME DIRECTLY AT:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
to keep this non RV subject from taking up bandwidth on the list.
Thank you in advance.
Laird
RV-6 600 hrs
SoCal (currently displaced to Kauai for a work assignment...I know,
rough duty! But I miss my RV :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed up to
the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight corner, avoid
rubbing
the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and
then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube bender.
Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining the tubing.
Steve
Rv7A
(was looking forward to this part)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking
>
>
> Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
> cooling ramp on the belly?
Can anyone explain why the cooling ramp is adjustable?
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
In a message dated 9/28/02 3:32:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gcomfo(at)tc3net.com writes:
>
> Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
> cooling ramp on the belly?
Can anyone explain why the cooling ramp is adjustable?
Gordon Comfort
N363GC >>
The stock one ain't...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
it is not
Gert
Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking
>
>
>
>>
>>Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
>>cooling ramp on the belly?
>>
>
> Can anyone explain why the cooling ramp is adjustable?
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8/8A cooling ramp cracking |
>
>In a message dated 9/28/02 3:32:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>gcomfo(at)tc3net.com writes:
>
> >
> > Anyone with an 8 or 8A have any cracking occurring in the air exit
> > cooling ramp on the belly?
>
> Can anyone explain why the cooling ramp is adjustable?
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC >>
>
>The stock one ain't...
>
>Kyle Boatright
>0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
>Kennesaw, GA
>http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
I seem to recall reading somewhere that Van originally planned to
have the front end of the ramp (and curved air guide) move up and
down to vary the cooling air exit area. This would basically be a
cowl flap, and could allow some performance increase. I thought
about trying to do this, but I couldn't come up with a simple, robust
way to do it, so I gave up.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Lines |
Use a steel braided hose instead. Once you use one, though, you will want
to throw away the tubing bender and flaring tool and do them all that way!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum Fuel Lines
>
> I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
>
> I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed up to
> the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight corner, avoid
> rubbing
> the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and
> then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube bender.
> Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining the tubing.
>
>
> Steve
> Rv7A
> (was looking forward to this part)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
Use "trouble free" flexible hose. A bit more expensive, but you'll be done
in 1/5th of the time. I used this where complicated bends were not much
fun!
Good Luck
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Inspection next Sat!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve J Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum Fuel Lines
I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed up to
the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight corner, avoid
rubbing
the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and
then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube bender.
Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining the tubing.
Steve
Rv7A
(was looking forward to this part)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
hi listers,
Can anyone tell if there's a problem fitting a IO-360-A1B6D to a RV-8? This is
the "same" engine as Vans sells, but it has the BendixD4LN-3000 impulse coupling
dual magneto.
Thanks
Marcel
VansRv4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Get rid of the Dual mag. It is the source of many, many problems.
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RV-List: rv8 engine
>
> hi listers,
>
> Can anyone tell if there's a problem fitting a IO-360-A1B6D to a RV-8?
This is the "same" engine as Vans sells, but it has the BendixD4LN-3000
impulse coupling dual magneto.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Marcel
> VansRv4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/28/02 6:19:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com writes:
> hi listers,
>
> Can anyone tell if there's a problem fitting a IO-360-A1B6D to a RV-8? This
> is the "same" engine as Vans sells, but it has the BendixD4LN-3000 impulse
> coupling dual magneto.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Marcel
> VansRv4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com
>
>
I used an IO360-A3B6D and it fits fine. I did opt out of the dual mag and
installed dual electronic ignition but it will fit with the dual mag.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
List,
I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side and bottom) that I
can not squeeze because the engine mount is in the way. All along, I had planned
to jack everything up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few inches to
accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to get to rivets. I will
use pop rivets only as a last resort, before pulling the engine mount loose.
I'm sure every tail wheel builder faces this task, but I'm going goofey thinging
about it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
In a message dated 9/28/02 9:12:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
skytop(at)megsinet.net writes:
<< List,
I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side and bottom)
that I can not squeeze because the engine mount is in the way. All along, I
had planned to jack everything up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few
inches to accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to get to rivets.
I will use pop rivets only as a last resort, before pulling the engine mount
loose. I'm sure every tail wheel builder faces this task, but I'm going
goofey thinging about it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Barnes -6 >>
Tom,
Use Cherry Max structural rivets in those locations. Far easier to spend a
few dollars on these high quality pop rivets than to have to pull off the
engine and mount. Note that the Cherry Max rivets have pretty tight
requirements on length - you need to make sure you use the right size.
Aircraft Spruce is one source.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
> Use "trouble free" flexible hose. A bit more expensive, but
> you'll be done in 1/5th of the time. I used this where
> complicated bends were not much fun!
> I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
>
> I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing
> routed up to the main gear web but then how do I manage to
> turn the tight corner, avoid rubbing the gear leg, avoid
> kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and then onto
> the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube
> bender. Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining
> the tubing.
>
A couple things - one can use the flexible lines as suggested above, but
it is expensive and will involve some maintenance eventually. If you
choose to go the aluminum tube route, be sure to get a good bender.
Also, buy a big coil of the tubing (it is cheap), and don't be afraid to
try different routings. I don't think it is a big deal if it takes 4 or
more tries to get it right. 4 tries might only take 30 minutes. If it
is difficult to get one piece of tubing to work, don't be afraid to put
a connector in the middle of a run.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 211 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
>
>
> List,
> I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side
> and bottom) that I can not squeeze because the engine mount
> is in the way. All along, I had planned to jack everything
> up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few inches to
> accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
> Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to
> get to rivets. I will use pop rivets only as a last resort,
> before pulling the engine mount loose. I'm sure every tail
> wheel builder faces this task, but I'm going goofey thinging about it.
These rivets get a lot of stress, and are often the "smoking" rivets one
hears about on the 6's, particularly right at the inboard ends of the
bottom hinge lines. You might find someone who has "modified", i.e.,
ground away, a squeezer so that it will work. I believe I also used a
special bucking bar in that area.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 211 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
Tom,
Use Cherry Rivets. God's gift to impossible rivets! Done correctly, you
won't notice much of a difference, other than the hole in the center (which
can easily be filled later).
Much easier than goofing around with the engine mount!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Barnes
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall
List,
I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side and bottom)
that I can not squeeze because the engine mount is in the way. All along, I
had planned to jack everything up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few
inches to accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to get to rivets.
I will use pop rivets only as a last resort, before pulling the engine mount
loose. I'm sure every tail wheel builder faces this task, but I'm going
goofey thinging about it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
RV8 for sale to RV Listers first. Ad goes in TradeAPlane next month. 90
TT, 85 since remanufacture on 180 HP O360A4M. Sensenich prop. Day/night
VFR. Full gyro panel. Intercom, King Nav, King GPS, King Transponder/Mode
C. Room in panel for ILS to make it IFR. Orndorff interior. Rear seat
rudder pedals. Cabin heat. Aileron trim. G meter. All interior parts
primed. A sweet flying, good looking RV8. $65,000 firm. Contact off-line
at aeronut58(at)hotmail.com for pictures or more information.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
Here's a little tip that will save you a lot of time bending tubing. Go
down to your local welding supply house and pickup some soft aluminum
welding rods. Shape the rod by hand to your exact bend needs, until it
fits just right, mark to length with a felt tip pen and then use this as
a pattern to bend your aluminum tube off the airplane.
When you're done with one piece of welding rod, just roll it on a table
to straighten out - ready to use on the next bend.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight info wanted |
In a message dated 9/28/2002 11:01:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
> I'm looking for an ultralight kit to build for a friend (my RV is
> flying fine, thank you) and I don't have a good idea of what kits are
> out there right now.
Laird-
I would think that the Titan Tornado would be a fun build for a sheet metal
type guy.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 570hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
We have a LASAR ignition system on the IO-360 in our RV-4, and up to now have been
very happy with its performance, but....
Recently the cockpit ignition light stays illuminated indicating that the mags
are in "backup" mode, i.e. they are using the points and have fixed 25 degree
timing. The engine runs great, but of course is nearly impossible to start.
Tomorrow we begin troubleshooting. If anyone has any experience or tips with this
equipment, I would most appreciate it.
First question is where do you connect your PC to download the trouble codes? It
is not clear in the instructions, and although it says to connect the serial
cable, I see no serial connector. Is it the canon plug on the bottom of the
computer box? Also, it is not clear in the instructions how to get the trouble
codes. Do they download as soon as you connect or do you have to crank or start
the engine?
Thanks in advance!
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR Ignition |
I would contact Harry Fenton at Slick... Harry(at)unisonindustries.com He is
their service engineer and also an A&P, IA. He can tell you what you need to
know.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
>
>
> We have a LASAR ignition system on the IO-360 in our RV-4, and up to now
have been very happy with its performance, but....
>
> Recently the cockpit ignition light stays illuminated indicating that the
mags are in "backup" mode, i.e. they are using the points and have fixed 25
degree timing. The engine runs great, but of course is nearly impossible to
start.
>
> Tomorrow we begin troubleshooting. If anyone has any experience or tips
with this equipment, I would most appreciate it.
>
> First question is where do you connect your PC to download the trouble
codes? It is not clear in the instructions, and although it says to connect
the serial cable, I see no serial connector. Is it the canon plug on the
bottom of the computer box? Also, it is not clear in the instructions how
to get the trouble codes. Do they download as soon as you connect or do you
have to crank or start the engine?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jeff Bertsch
>
> noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR Ignition |
I, too, have a Lasar system in my -4. When I needed help during installation,
I spoke with Harry. He is sometimes difficult to get on the phone, but very helpful.
During installation, I borrowed the serial cable from him - no cost,
not even shipping. He provided all the help required.
Good luck.
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley
Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
I would contact Harry Fenton at Slick... Harry(at)unisonindustries.com He is
their service engineer and also an A&P, IA. He can tell you what you need to
know.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
>
>
> We have a LASAR ignition system on the IO-360 in our RV-4, and up to now
have been very happy with its performance, but....
>
> Recently the cockpit ignition light stays illuminated indicating that the
mags are in "backup" mode, i.e. they are using the points and have fixed 25
degree timing. The engine runs great, but of course is nearly impossible to
start.
>
> Tomorrow we begin troubleshooting. If anyone has any experience or tips
with this equipment, I would most appreciate it.
>
> First question is where do you connect your PC to download the trouble
codes? It is not clear in the instructions, and although it says to connect
the serial cable, I see no serial connector. Is it the canon plug on the
bottom of the computer box? Also, it is not clear in the instructions how
to get the trouble codes. Do they download as soon as you connect or do you
have to crank or start the engine?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jeff Bertsch
>
> noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
I did the same thing on my RV4. Ended up pulling the engine mount. I think I would
have made a mess trying to do it any other way.
Earl RV4
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> List,
> I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side and bottom) that
I can not squeeze because the engine mount is in the way. All along, I had planned
to jack everything up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few inches
to accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
> Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to get to rivets. I
will use pop rivets only as a last resort, before pulling the engine mount loose.
I'm sure every tail wheel builder faces this task, but I'm going goofey
thinging about it.
> Thanks in advance.
> Tom Barnes -6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall |
There is nothing wrong with using pop rivets here. You will never see it.
Just use some steel structural pop rivets, instead of the alluminum ones.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 riveting cowl hinge segment at firewall
>
> I did the same thing on my RV4. Ended up pulling the engine mount. I think
I would
> have made a mess trying to do it any other way.
> Earl RV4
>
> Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> >
> > List,
> > I have a number of rivets at the fuselage firewall (side and bottom)
that I can not squeeze because the engine mount is in the way. All along, I
had planned to jack everything up and move the engine-on-mount forward a few
inches to accomplish this, but now, I don't have the guts to try that.
> > Can someone tell me how to buck these most difficult to get to
rivets. I will use pop rivets only as a last resort, before pulling the
engine mount loose. I'm sure every tail wheel builder faces this task, but
I'm going goofey thinging about it.
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Tom Barnes -6
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
Steve,
Can you add more info about "trouble free" flexible hose. Is this a
brand or a description? My experience with flexible hose is that it
requires a larger radius bend than regular aluminum fuel lines. I made
good use of flexible hoses on my brake lines, but found I had to use
aluminum lines for the fuel, especially in tight spaces around the
selector valve.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
> From: "Stein Bruch"
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Aluminum Fuel Lines
>
>
> Use "trouble free" flexible hose. A bit more expensive, but you'll be done
> in 1/5th of the time. I used this where complicated bends were not much
> fun!
>
> Good Luck
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, Inspection next Sat!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nafsinger.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight info wanted |
The Titan doesn't even come close to qualifying as a "true" Ultralight.
Its just too fast and heavy. The Tornado is a fun little plane, but for
the money you could almost build a RV-3. :-)
I loved my Titan (2 Place, Rotax 582), but there is a reason it is gone
and I am building a RV-7 now.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ultralight info wanted
In a message dated 9/28/2002 11:01:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
> I'm looking for an ultralight kit to build for a friend (my RV is
> flying fine, thank you) and I don't have a good idea of what kits are
> out there right now.
Laird-
I would think that the Titan Tornado would be a fun build for a sheet
metal
type guy.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 570hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines |
Charlie,
I used plain old Aeroquip steel braided hose. You are right about the bend
radius being tighter with aluminum. The reason the flexible stuff is easier
in some instances is that very complex routings can be accomplished much
easier than with rigid line. I have all aluminum lines in and out of my
selector/fuel pump/filter installation.
The flexible line is just very fast and easy, and in my case I was
"retrofitting" a normal tank with an inverted pickup, and didn't want to cut
a bunch of new holes for routing, but still wanted the line hid behind my
interior panels, hence the flexible line.
It is MUCH more expensive, and everyone is right, bending rigid line is also
fairly easy and quick. I'm not advocating that one completely replaces
aluminum lines with flexible one, just that in "some" cases it MAY be
easier.
Good luck and happy building,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Inspection next Sat.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Brame
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aluminum Fuel Lines
Steve,
Can you add more info about "trouble free" flexible hose. Is this a
brand or a description? My experience with flexible hose is that it
requires a larger radius bend than regular aluminum fuel lines. I made
good use of flexible hoses on my brake lines, but found I had to use
aluminum lines for the fuel, especially in tight spaces around the
selector valve.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
> From: "Stein Bruch"
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Aluminum Fuel Lines
>
>
> Use "trouble free" flexible hose. A bit more expensive, but you'll be
done
> in 1/5th of the time. I used this where complicated bends were not much
> fun!
>
> Good Luck
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, Inspection next Sat!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR Ignition |
Jeff:
I run the Laser on an 0-320. On rare occassions I have this problem too.
It will either not come back after the mag check or the computer drops off
after a rapid throttle change. In all of these cases, cycling the master
switch has resulted in a return to normal operation. Thankfully this has
been quite rare.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
>
>
> We have a LASAR ignition system on the IO-360 in our RV-4, and up to now
have been very happy with its performance, but....
>
> Recently the cockpit ignition light stays illuminated indicating that the
mags are in "backup" mode, i.e. they are using the points and have fixed 25
degree timing. The engine runs great, but of course is nearly impossible to
start.
>
> Tomorrow we begin troubleshooting. If anyone has any experience or tips
with this equipment, I would most appreciate it.
>
> First question is where do you connect your PC to download the trouble
codes? It is not clear in the instructions, and although it says to connect
the serial cable, I see no serial connector. Is it the canon plug on the
bottom of the computer box? Also, it is not clear in the instructions how
to get the trouble codes. Do they download as soon as you connect or do you
have to crank or start the engine?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jeff Bertsch
>
> noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LASAR Ignition |
Jeff, if you want to connect your PC you'll need the cable they sell for it.
I installed one in my plane but haven't used it yet. One thing that could be
causing your problem is to check the CHT circuit sensor and connections. I'm
told the connections especially must be perfect or you will get a fault.
Some units don't have the CHT circuit, consider yourself lucky if you don't.
Dick, LASAR automatically goes into backup mode temporarily with any sharp
reduction in manifold pressure -- it's part of the program. I don't see the
benefit in this but that's the way they do it.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 268 hrs, O-360 A1A w/LASAR
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
>
> Jeff:
>
> I run the Laser on an 0-320. On rare occassions I have this problem too.
> It will either not come back after the mag check or the computer drops off
> after a rapid throttle change. In all of these cases, cycling the master
> switch has resulted in a return to normal operation. Thankfully this has
> been quite rare.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
> To: "RVlist"
> Subject: RV-List: LASAR Ignition
>
>
> >
> >
> > We have a LASAR ignition system on the IO-360 in our RV-4, and up to now
> have been very happy with its performance, but....
> >
> > Recently the cockpit ignition light stays illuminated indicating that
the
> mags are in "backup" mode, i.e. they are using the points and have fixed
25
> degree timing. The engine runs great, but of course is nearly impossible
to
> start.
> >
> > Tomorrow we begin troubleshooting. If anyone has any experience or tips
> with this equipment, I would most appreciate it.
> >
> > First question is where do you connect your PC to download the trouble
> codes? It is not clear in the instructions, and although it says to
connect
> the serial cable, I see no serial connector. Is it the canon plug on the
> bottom of the computer box? Also, it is not clear in the instructions how
> to get the trouble codes. Do they download as soon as you connect or do
you
> have to crank or start the engine?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Jeff Bertsch
> >
> > noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
LASAR automatically goes into backup mode temporarily
> with any sharp reduction in manifold pressure -- it's part of
> the program.
It goes into backup mode whenever the manifold pressure drops below 5
inches mercury. A few seconds after MP is above 5, and it will shut off
the light.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 211 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
My wife and I plan to fly our 8A from Okla. to North Dakota soon, merely
because we have not been there.
What are some good stops/places to see on that route?
Thanks.
hillstw(at)aol.com
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Lines |
When using the flex hose, is there any concern in using 90 degree fitting to
attach to the fuel selector? I suspect the turn into the fuel selector will
be too tight to use a flex hose with a straight fitting. How tight a corner can
I turn with a flexible hose? Tight enough to turn the 90 degree bend after
exiting the main gear weldment?
I'll probably end up using the expensive hoses with 90 degree end fittings. Of
course the fuel pressure test run will ensure sufficient fuel flow after
everything is finished.
Thankx again,
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Quoting dmasys :
> --- In RV7and7A@y..., "Steve J Hurlbut" wrote:
> > I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
> >
> > I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed
> up to
> > the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight corner,
> avoid
> > rubbing
> > the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and
> > then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube
> bender.
> > Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining the tubing.
>
> This wasn't easy. I prebent the curve leading up to the fuel selector
> with a lever-type tubing bender and then fed the tubing from center
> outward, rebending as the lines advanced. You do have to do some of
> it with your fingers rather than with a tubing bender. Got a few
> surface nicks in the fuel line going around the sharp edges of the
> landing gear weldments, and dressed these out with emery cloth after
> finishing the bends.
>
> -Dan Masys
>
>
>
>
> Sell a Home for Top $
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/RrPZMC/jTmEAA/MVfIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need help on starter decision making. |
| From: | "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net> |
Good morning and hello for a newbie outside of Lexington, Kentucky.
I have been watching and reading the list and searching every RV site I can find,
Visiting some very nice people who are building, and talking to many others.
I thank everyone of you who have given me help and now am getting ready to
start. I have a few questions.
Where I am building my shop is in a room off one side of an open garage. the area
I will be building in is 20x10 and seems to be large enough, but will be open
to the outside air. Will this pose a problem for mosture in building each
section of the aircraft and anything else you can think of? I have almost all
the tools I need to start the first kit, but wanted to know what size dimple
dies I need.
I am also building a web based application for tracking progress of RV building
that would show a top and side view of the plane and a user can click on any
part of the plane and display the log of that part with pictures below. Also
each part would be color coded to the progress on it. The whole thing would have
a simple owner tool for inputing the daily log, pictures, time, money spent
that day, ect. The app would keep track of the total cost, cost per section,
time and time per section auctomaticly for the owner. If anyone is interested
in this, I would be willing to hand out the source once it is finished.
Thanks and I apriciate all the health,
Daniel Wier
Daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
For Inspectors it is a time contraint thing as management on high has
decided that GA is not as important in the political arena as the big air
carriers are. We have been informed that because there are DARs out there
we, as Inspectors, should give up on Experimental certifications.
Personally, I feel this is the wrong approach, but, then again, I am just a
General Aviation Inspector. I still manage to fit Experiemtnal
certifications into my schedule as I can and will continue to do so unless
directed specifically not to.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A, 6A, 9A
>From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:55:00 -0400
>
>
>I was in on a conference call with EAA this past week and someone said the
>FAA no longer does inspections. The local FAA inspector recently inspected
>six homebuilts at no charge and seemed miffed when he heard about someone
>else getting a DAR. Does anyone know if the FAA is quiting this or is it
>just
>a time constraint thing?
>Earl RV4
>
>Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> >
> > Good idea! I'll run this idea past Doug Reeves since his site would be a
> > great place to have the DAR list.
> >
> > It definitely works both ways. We had a local DAR who tried to rob one
> > of our builders with an exorbitant fee.......and nobody has seen that
> > DAR since.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
> > =================
> >
> > Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > Hey Sam, here's an idea for your web site. Why don't you compile a
>list
> > > from us of RV friendly DARS by region and post them on a page on your
>site.
> > >
> > > Put down what they charge too. Most of these guys are in it for the
>money
> > > and its about time they have to deal with a little market pressure
>too. It
> > > does work both ways.
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> >
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A Flying (long) |
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
Austin -- great news and congratulations!! Sounds like things went
really well! Please keep the list posted as things progress in the next
little while. 'til then...best regards...TCG
________________________________________________________________________________
SoCAL-RVlist
| From: | Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak's Digitrak Report part 2 (long) |
Hi all,
I posted an initial flight report on the Digitrak autopilot I
installed in my RV-6 a month ago (see previous report below).
I thought I'd give an update now I've been flying with it awhile and
have been on a couple long trips with it.
And before we start, I'm not trying to start a Trutrak vs Navaid war.
I'm trying to state my experience with my Digitrak. That's all. I
don't have any time behind an RV with a Navaid, so I can't compare
them.
When I posted the last report, I didn't know how the Digitrak would
act in turbulence. Now I know-It works awesome. I've been bounced
around quite a bit while it was engaged and it brings the airplane
back to level after an upset very well every time. I felt
comfortable keeping the AP engaged while riding it out.
Next was how well the AP would hold a course heading over a long
period. Again, awesome. I set up a direct course over a couple of
hundred long mile leg, set the Digitrak to the same track and sat
back. As the GPS direct course changed a degree once in awhile (due
to the great circle routing), I would press the arrow key on the AP
once to keep the direct course on the GPS and the AP display the
same. I'd say it was less than 1/4 mile off course by the end of the
leg. Not bad.
So as far as I can tell, it's a great product with good value.
The one glaring difference between the Digitrak and the Navaid was
that that the Navaid would follow around a multi track course. While
with the Digitrak, you would have to press the defeat switch on the
stick (or turn it off), turn to the new course, and reengage it.
That's not a big deal in my opinion because all of my flying is
"Direct To", and it holds a course line so well.
But apparently, the guys at TruTrak thought that it was a big enough
feature deficit that they needed to add that feature. I saw that
they announced it last month that it would be available October 1 for
an additional cost.
A couple of days after I posted my initial report, I got an email
from the guys at TruTrak that said they were looking for a couple of
beta testers for the new software. Hmmm, that sounds like fun!
So, a couple of days later, I have a beta controller with the new
software sitting in my RV. It was a simple swap of taking the old
controller (the part that bolts into the panel) and installing a
replacement. No new wire runs or any other changes. That was easy
(so anybody who buys a standard unit, then wants to upgrade can do so
easily).
I had about 2 weeks worth of testing before I got shipped out of
state on a business trip (to Kauai of all places.....rough duty, I
know. I guess that's why my call sign is "Lucky"). The last version
I was testing was working great before I left.
The last version (and it might have changed slightly in the last 2
weeks) I was testing would tell you by when it saw a GPS track
active in the GPS. (It does that when the AP is engaged by flashing a
symbol in the display every once in a while). That could be direct
track or a dog leg course. You tell the AP to track that course by
pressing both of the arrow buttons for a moment. The display starts
flashing heading changes as it steers the airplane to intercept the
course.
And the intercept is a thing of beauty! Depending on where or how
far you are off track, it steers to a intercept heading, and starts
turning on course before it intercepts the course. Most of the time,
it levels out right on the course line, sometimes it comes up short
by, maybe an 1/8 mile, but then kinda snuggles up to the course line
and then holds it. It may wander a degreee or two one way or another,
but it holds that course very well.
If a dog leg course is programmed in the GPS, the Digitrak will fly
to the waypoint, overfly it, then correct back to the course. It
comes back to the course like an intercept with generally no
overshoot. (I understand that the Navaid overflys the waypoint as
well, then steers back to the course in the same fashion, but that
the intercept may not be as good).
Of course the optimum would be if the AP knew a turn was coming up
and turned in early, but that is true GPS Steering, and you need to
go to the next level of TruTrak AP to get that. It's also more
expensive for the GPS Steering).
So if you feel you need to have an AP that follows a dog leg course,
or be able to intercept a given course, than this new software is for
you. (Not everyone needs to do this, and the way that the basic
Digitrak holds a course, a frugal pilot may want to forgo the extra
option. It's up to the individual.)
In conclusion, I really like my new Digitrak. The new software is
working great and I think it's a great product. It is comparable to
the Navaid, and I THINK it may be superior in a few ways, but they
both have their strength and weaknesses. It's great to have another
option for a low cost auto pilot for our RV's on the market.
So there you go. I hope you all take this report is the spirit in
which it is offered.
And the disclaimer: I did get the keep the software upgrade for my
efforts. But I also burned that much in AVGas during the testing, so
it's not like I got rich off of it. And it was a pleasure working
with the guys from TruTrak.
Regards,
Laird RV-6 600hrs
(Kauai, but much too soon back to SoCal)
Previous post from 8/23/02
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: DigiTrak Initial Test Report
Hi all,
I just installed my TruTrak "DigiTrak" auto pilot (that I ordered at
Oshkosh) this week and test flew it last night. I thought I'd give a
quick report with a more detailed report later once I live with it
for awhile.
Background:
My RV-6 has 570 hours of non AP use. I've been lusting after a wing
leveler for awhile (for convience and safety) and while out of my
mind at Oshkosh, I decided to jump in.
A couple of reasons I decided on the TruTrak were:
1) Comparative cost to Navaid.
2) Quick delivery time.
3) Touted as having better performance in turbulence.
4) TruTrak's upgrade policy. (The will upgrade you for only the
difference of the unit your choosing to upgrade to. This was a biggie
because I would like to someday have altitude hold capability).
5) Wanted to try something different. (This may always come back to bite you).
The only drawback I see compared to Navaid is that it doesn't track a
course. (If I were TruTrak, I'd be working on that, and you never
know, they might be). This isn't a big drawback in my mind if you can
manually sync up GPS Direct Track and the heading of the Display.
I did the mechanical installation of the servo one day, and the
wiring stuff over the next two evenings (with help from my father).
I decided to put the servo out on the wing tip and attach it to the
aileron bellcrank via a pushrod. I used parts from Van's stock
aileron pushrod assy to create the pushrod. Easy to get and didn't
have to reengineer much. (The reason I installed the servo in the
wingtip was only for ease of installation and serviceability. The
suggested installation has the servo in the same bay as the aileron
belcrank, and while it looks like it would work, access would be very
difficult, so I chose the wingtip. I paid a small weight penalty for
the added weight of the pushrod, but I also designed a lighter
bracket to attach the servo to the wing tip rib). I'll put up some
pictures when I have the chance.
I had to call Andrew at TruTrak to confirm the pin output of my
Garmin 250XL for the GPS info that the DigiTrak needs. I faxed him
some of the pages of the Garmin installation and he called me right
back to confirm that it was Pin 19 that needed to be used. Great
service. Thanks Andrew.
I finished the installation yesterday and turned on the main power
for a smoke check. No smoke....So far, so good. Next came the set
up of the DigiTrak. 4 simple tasks described in the installation
manual. Even though I had the GPS up and locked on, I wasn't getting
an indication from the DigiTrak that it was. Hmmm....Oh, I forgot to
set up the GPS to output to that channel. No big deal, went to the
set up page on the Garmin, changed output 2 from OFF to Positioning,
exit, and presto....DigiTrak was happily receiving a signal. (Also
for an installation note for others using a Garmin 250XL, it uses a
9600 baud rate).
With the ground set up complete, I fired up the RV and headed off to
the practice area. I hit the ON button and a track heading appeared
on DigiTrak display, and it held the wings level. That's a good
start. There is some setup of the devise that is required while
inflight that has to do with servo override torque and turbulence
settings that I got set initially. Will play with those a little
more when I find some good turbulence (I love the note in the manual
"DigiTrak LOVES turulence"), but that will come later.
Next was a quick test of the heading hold. I manually synced up a
GPS course on the GPS to the display on the DigiTrak head. It held
that very well. If you watch the GPS ground track, you see a very
mild change from one degree left, to one degree right over, maybe, a
20 second period. Nothing you can feel in the airplane, but you see
it on the GPS display. The next long trip will give me a feel for how
well it holds over long periods. Very well, I suspect.
Next was a test of the turn command. Press the Left or Right button
for 1.5 seconds and it commands a standard rate turn in that
direction until you again press a button or disengage it with the
stick switch. When you tell the AP to stop the turn, it rolls out
and holds that new heading. Pretty cool.
On test was to command the turn, trim the elevator and see what
happened. It just went round and round and round....5 times. Never
got confused, as some might have suggested. I timed a few of these
and one was exactly 2 minutes, another was 10 sec different. I need
the timing tests just to see how consistent it it. Worked the same
left or right.
Next I got it set on a heading, then turned the GPS off. The heading
display changed to 3 dashed lines indicating it wasn't getting any
track info. It happily held a heading and I didn't see any drift on
the compass for a minute or two. That's cool.
I set a course for home, set the DigiTrak and left it alone while I
watched for traffic and generally twiddled my fingers.....Hmmmm, so
this is what Auto Pilots are all about....Pretty cool.
(Unfortunately, I don't have any time behind a Navaid so I can't
compare the two).
That's about all I have right now. It's working as advertised and
I'm looking forward to trying it out on a long trip to learn more
about it and see how it works in turbulence. I report again when I
get a good feel for how it's working. (So when was Las Cruses
again???)
Let me know if anybody has any particular tests they want me to run,
and I'll see what you can do.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aluminum Fuel Lines > |
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
If you need to make an immediate turn in your lane after a bulkhead, use a
bulkhead elbow union, AN833-6D, Wicks online catalog p138, $5.70, (90
degree, a 45 deg is AN837-6D); and AN924-6D nut, Wicks online catalog p140,
$.60: Then if one line needs replacing, you don=B9t need access to both sides
of the bulkhead, and the tube is much easier to fabricate and install.
John Veld, retired Air Force tinbender, slow build RV6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Lines |
To answer your questions, yes, yes, and yes. I used steel hose throughout
the project. From the fuel selector I have 90 fittings and snake it past
the gear weldment. Then one line goes to the wing via a straight bulkhead
fitting. Another line goes to the fuel pump and then to the firewall. Even
the bend at the front of the floor and up the firewall worked fine. I then
have a 90 degree bulkhead fitting on the firewall, to pass the fuel line
through. No problems in over 100 hours.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Aluminum Fuel Lines
>
> When using the flex hose, is there any concern in using 90 degree fitting
to
> attach to the fuel selector? I suspect the turn into the fuel selector
will
> be too tight to use a flex hose with a straight fitting. How tight a
corner can
> I turn with a flexible hose? Tight enough to turn the 90 degree bend after
> exiting the main gear weldment?
>
> I'll probably end up using the expensive hoses with 90 degree end
fittings. Of
> course the fuel pressure test run will ensure sufficient fuel flow after
> everything is finished.
>
> Thankx again,
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
>
>
> Quoting dmasys :
>
> > --- In RV7and7A@y..., "Steve J Hurlbut" wrote:
> > > I'm trying to install the 3/8" fuel supply line in RV7A.
> > >
> > > I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed
> > up to
> > > the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight corner,
> > avoid
> > > rubbing
> > > the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through the rubber grommet and
> > > then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is too tight for a tube
> > bender.
> > > Any ideas? I've tried twice and just ended up ruining the tubing.
> >
> > This wasn't easy. I prebent the curve leading up to the fuel selector
> > with a lever-type tubing bender and then fed the tubing from center
> > outward, rebending as the lines advanced. You do have to do some of
> > it with your fingers rather than with a tubing bender. Got a few
> > surface nicks in the fuel line going around the sharp edges of the
> > landing gear weldments, and dressed these out with emery cloth after
> > finishing the bends.
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sell a Home for Top $
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/RrPZMC/jTmEAA/MVfIAA/1yWplB/TM
> >
> >
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Firesleeve dressing? |
I've seen firesleeve installations where the ends of the firesleeve
looked sealed or dressed in something. It looks like the end was dipped
in some very watery RTV-like stuff. What is this stuff, and where can I
get it?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Where can I find some mag clamps -- The little blocks that hold the
slick mags in position on the engine? I need another pair to mount the
Jeff Rose EI.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
Larry: The Fire sleve end dip can be found in Aircraft Spruce Catalog page
121 lower right hand corner P/N 5027 .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Transition Training |
I just got back from transition training with Mike Seager this past Friday.
This was only my third time in an RV and my first time flying one. What a
nice flying airplane and what a nice guy. So what I had to drive 10 hours
to get to Vernonia. So what that I ate dinner at the Disfunctional Redneck
Pizza Parlor (it's okay, I'm a redneck myself). So what I slept in a bed
that was more like a hammock. So what the walls were paper thin and I got
to listen to every TV program, every snore, every... never mind. So what
that I could barely reach the rudder pedals in the factory RV-6. I got to
actually fly one of these beauties! It really was fun! The plane's
handling was exceptional. For those of you who haven't flown one, who have
maybe flown mostly Wichita aircraft (like myself), this thing don't handle
like a Cessna!
There were actually a couple of things that surprised me about how it
handled. First, it wasn't as hard to slow down as I had imagined it to be.
I'm used to Citabrias, and Champs, where you pull the throttle back abeam
your landing point. I was really intimidated by the slipperyness of the
RVs. But it turned out to be no problem. Just throttle back to 1800 rpm
out on the 45 and you'll be good to go.
The other surprising thing was how it stalled. Exactly opposite of what I'm
used to. The power-off stalls are very abrupt and the power-on stalls are
fairly docile. The extreme pitch-up attitude was pretty disconcerting to me
as well during the power-on stall.
Builders, if you haven't got any stick time in these things go get some.
They are great flying airplanes but they do have a few gotchas. If at all
possible take the transition training with Mike. You will never find a more
patient flight instructor. That really is a testament to his character,
that he can still be so patient after all the transition training he's
given. Oh, and if you do travel to Vernonia for the training and stay the
night, be sure to mention to Mike how great the picture quality was on your
TV. Yes that's an inside joke and you'll just have to wait for Mike's
response to find out what that means.
Oh, I almost forgot. Mike only teaches three point landings. ;-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
Transition Training
I just got back from transition training with Mike Seager this past Friday. This
was only my third time in an RV and my first time flying one. What a nice flying
airplane and what a nice guy. So what I had to drive 10 hours to get to Vernonia.
So what that I ate dinner at the Disfunctional Redneck Pizza Parlor (it's
okay, I'm a redneck myself). So what I slept in a bed that was more like
a hammock. So what the walls were paper thin and I got to listen to every TV program,
every snore, every... never mind. So what that I could barely reach the
rudder pedals in the factory RV-6. I got to actually fly one of these beauties!
It really was fun! The plane's handling was exceptional. For those of you
who haven't flown one, who have maybe flown mostly Wichita aircraft (like myself),
this thing don't handle like a Cessna!
There were actually a couple of things that surprised me about how it handled.
First, it wasn't as hard to slow down as I had imagined it to be. I'm used to
Citabrias, and Champs, where you pull the throttle back abeam your landing point.
I was really intimidated by the slipperyness of the RVs. But it turned out
to be no problem. Just throttle back to 1800 rpm out on the 45 and you'll be
good to go.
The other surprising thing was how it stalled. Exactly opposite of what I'm used
to. The power-off stalls are very abrupt and the power-on stalls are fairly
docile. The extreme pitch-up attitude was pretty disconcerting to me as well during
the power-on stall.
Builders, if you haven't got any stick time in these things go get some. They are
great flying airplanes but they do have a few gotchas. If at all possible take
the transition training with Mike. You will never find a more patient flight
instructor. That really is a testament to his character, that he can still
be so patient after all the transition training he's given. Oh, and if you do
travel to Vernonia for the training and stay the night, be sure to mention to
Mike how great the picture quality was on your TV. Yes that's an inside joke and
you'll just have to wait for Mike's response to find out what that means.
Oh, I almost forgot. Mike only teaches three point landings. ;-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Firesleeve dressing? |
Thanks. I was able to find it in the ACS catelog online using the part
number you provided, but not in my 2001-2002 paper catelog. Anyway ....
$65! That seems a little steep for the dozen or so hose ends I have.
Is it worth it? Is everyone else doing this?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> TColeE(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 11:41 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Firesleeve dressing?
>
>
>
>
> Larry: The Fire sleve end dip can be found in Aircraft Spruce
> Catalog page
> 121 lower right hand corner P/N 5027 .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
1998 RV-6A with sliding canopy, 200TT , 200 since overhaul on 200 HP
IO360A1B. 200 hrs on Hartzell CS prop. Day/night VFR. Full gyro panel.
Intercom, Transponder/Mode
C, engine analyser and more. Cabin heat. Electric elevator and aileron
trim. G meter. All interior parts primed. US$80K Contact off-line
at marc_guay(at)hotmail.com for pictures or more information.
Marc Guay
Ottawa Ontario
Canada
CF-WUV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
Hello Larry,
Recently I had to shorten one of my oil lines. When the time came to apply
the dressing, I found the remainder of the small amount that had been given
to me for the job had set up.
It seems that once the original can is opened it will begin to set up. If
this is the case, be wary about bying a larger volume than you will need.
In place of the original material I used some red RTV.. The RTV. though not
as nice to use worked out well enough that I will use it again for dressing
future mods or repairs.
I hope this helps,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Firesleeve dressing?
>
> Thanks. I was able to find it in the ACS catelog online using the part
> number you provided, but not in my 2001-2002 paper catelog. Anyway ....
> $65! That seems a little steep for the dozen or so hose ends I have.
> Is it worth it? Is everyone else doing this?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > TColeE(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 11:41 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Firesleeve dressing?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Larry: The Fire sleve end dip can be found in Aircraft Spruce
> > Catalog page
> > 121 lower right hand corner P/N 5027 .
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: North Dakota |
>
>My wife and I plan to fly our 8A from Okla. to North Dakota soon, merely
>because we have not been there.
>
>What are some good stops/places to see on that route?
DIrect? Sorry, HillStw, but there isn't anything to see there.
I grew up in Kansas, nothing there. I have been to weddings and Navy
training in Oklahoma, nothing there. I have criss-crossed Nebraska several
times to and from Oshkosh, nothing there. South Dakota has the Black
HIlls, badly eroded lands which many midwesterners find disgusting. The
Park service will not appreciate any of the erosion control measures you
might feel like implementing. I don't recall which Dakota has the stone
heads. We lived in Minot but I don't remember it.
I suppose you've been to the Grand Canyon, the Ozarks, Santa Fe, the
Rockies, the Pima Air Museum?
There's not much in California either.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firesleeve dressing? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Thanks. I was able to find it in the ACS catelog online using the part
>number you provided, but not in my 2001-2002 paper catelog. Anyway ....
>$65! That seems a little steep for the dozen or so hose ends I have.
>Is it worth it? Is everyone else doing this?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
Well no. I went down to WalMart and bought a can of tool handle dip for
a few bucks. Not sure what it is actually called but it works nifty.
Trouble is, when I revealed this to the list someone thought I was
endangering my life and the lives of others because maybe this stuff can
burn. Of course there is a total of about 1 ounce of the stuff in the
whole airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Hal,
How is that Alzheimer's medication working?
Nothing to see in California?? Do we live in the same State?
The "Stone heads" are in the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Rapid City was one of ours stops this summer flying the
RV6A across the country. I found Mt. Rushmore and the Black Hills
fascinating. The people and the FBO were all great.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kempthornes [SMTP:kempthornes(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 10:19 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: North Dakota
>
>
> >
> >My wife and I plan to fly our 8A from Okla. to North Dakota soon, merely
> >because we have not been there.
> >
> >What are some good stops/places to see on that route?
>
> DIrect? Sorry, HillStw, but there isn't anything to see there.
>
> I grew up in Kansas, nothing there. I have been to weddings and Navy
> training in Oklahoma, nothing there. I have criss-crossed Nebraska
> several
> times to and from Oshkosh, nothing there. South Dakota has the Black
> HIlls, badly eroded lands which many midwesterners find disgusting. The
> Park service will not appreciate any of the erosion control measures you
> might feel like implementing. I don't recall which Dakota has the stone
> heads. We lived in Minot but I don't remember it.
>
> I suppose you've been to the Grand Canyon, the Ozarks, Santa Fe, the
> Rockies, the Pima Air Museum?
>
> There's not much in California either.
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Adapting Exhaust Sysem for O-235 N2C |
Can someone with O-235 and/or O-320 experience could help me. I will be
installing an O-235 N2C on an RV-9A pretty soon. Vans nearest exhaust is
the Vetterman one for the 320/360 (EA EXH W/MUFF). I asked Gus at Vans
what I should order. He said to order the above - - and modify it myself to
fit the O-235. He couldn't remember what they did to put it on the O-235 in
the first factory prototype. The prototype shop remembers it as "wasn't too
bad". This is stainless steel. The nearest shop I trust is over 200
miles away. I could shorten a pipe or two - but I can't lengthen one or
change angles of bend, etc., myself.
Does someone know what the changes would be (the bad news)?? Thanks.
P.S.: The Fab Air Box will fit really good - I have to remake one part,
using the existing as a template.
P.P.S.: The baffle kit will be probably be much different - I may order
just the plans and make it myself.
(Just a heads-up for others considering the O-235.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help on starter decision making. |
Hello Daniel,
If you have any mild steel stuff that has been stored long term in the area
that you propose to build in and these items are not been adversely effected
by ambient humidity and weather over the years, you might be alright to
build there.
If things such as nails, tools, cans, steel wool etc. rust quickly and
easily, give serious consideration to temporarily enclosing the area and
providing at least a small source of heat.
It sounds to me to be quite a small area to build in, can it be added to
with simple temporary extensions as the building proceeds?
As to the dimple dies a set of 3/32" and 1/8" will get you started. Go to
Vans web site and look into "resources" for tool suppliers and other useful
links. The various tool suppliers catalogs will outline and describe in
detail the tools needed for the Vans RV series aircraft.
A trip to Sun and Fun in Florida could be a good idea for picking up lots of
tools, ideas and basic supplies. While there stop in at the Fantasy of
Flight museum for a while.
Happy building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net>
Subject: RV-List: Need help on starter decision making.
>
> Good morning and hello for a newbie outside of Lexington, Kentucky.
>
> I have been watching and reading the list and searching every RV site I
can find, Visiting some very nice people who are building, and talking to
many others. I thank everyone of you who have given me help and now am
getting ready to start. I have a few questions.
>
> Where I am building my shop is in a room off one side of an open garage.
the area I will be building in is 20x10 and seems to be large enough, but
will be open to the outside air. Will this pose a problem for mosture in
building each section of the aircraft and anything else you can think of? I
have almost all the tools I need to start the first kit, but wanted to know
what size dimple dies I need.
>
> I am also building a web based application for tracking progress of RV
building that would show a top and side view of the plane and a user can
click on any part of the plane and display the log of that part with
pictures below. Also each part would be color coded to the progress on it.
The whole thing would have a simple owner tool for inputing the daily log,
pictures, time, money spent that day, ect. The app would keep track of the
total cost, cost per section, time and time per section auctomaticly for the
owner. If anyone is interested in this, I would be willing to hand out the
source once it is finished.
>
> Thanks and I apriciate all the health,
>
> Daniel Wier
> Daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Alternator |
14684 fits Suzuki's Samurai 86-95 , and 89 Sick kicks...from the Lester
catalog. This is a LESTER#.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage finishing
>
> Has anyone had this problem before? How about the other one (14684) from Van's?
I understand that it is a 60 amp alternator. I have tried to locate it from
the parts houses but Pep Boy says that it is a NAPA number and NAPA says they
never heard of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help on starter decision making. |
Hi again Daniel,
In Van's web site look into "required tools" under "building an RV" for the
tools suggested and tool suppliers sites.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need help on starter decision making.
>
> Hello Daniel,
>
> If you have any mild steel stuff that has been stored long term in the
area
> that you propose to build in and these items are not been adversely
effected
> by ambient humidity and weather over the years, you might be alright to
> build there.
> If things such as nails, tools, cans, steel wool etc. rust quickly and
> easily, give serious consideration to temporarily enclosing the area and
> providing at least a small source of heat.
>
> It sounds to me to be quite a small area to build in, can it be added to
> with simple temporary extensions as the building proceeds?
>
> As to the dimple dies a set of 3/32" and 1/8" will get you started. Go to
> Vans web site and look into "resources" for tool suppliers and other
useful
> links. The various tool suppliers catalogs will outline and describe in
> detail the tools needed for the Vans RV series aircraft.
> A trip to Sun and Fun in Florida could be a good idea for picking up lots
of
> tools, ideas and basic supplies. While there stop in at the Fantasy of
> Flight museum for a while.
>
> Happy building,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Need help on starter decision making.
>
>
>
> >
> > Good morning and hello for a newbie outside of Lexington, Kentucky.
> >
> > I have been watching and reading the list and searching every RV site I
> can find, Visiting some very nice people who are building, and talking to
> many others. I thank everyone of you who have given me help and now am
> getting ready to start. I have a few questions.
> >
> > Where I am building my shop is in a room off one side of an open garage.
> the area I will be building in is 20x10 and seems to be large enough, but
> will be open to the outside air. Will this pose a problem for mosture in
> building each section of the aircraft and anything else you can think of?
I
> have almost all the tools I need to start the first kit, but wanted to
know
> what size dimple dies I need.
> >
> > I am also building a web based application for tracking progress of RV
> building that would show a top and side view of the plane and a user can
> click on any part of the plane and display the log of that part with
> pictures below. Also each part would be color coded to the progress on
it.
> The whole thing would have a simple owner tool for inputing the daily log,
> pictures, time, money spent that day, ect. The app would keep track of
the
> total cost, cost per section, time and time per section auctomaticly for
the
> owner. If anyone is interested in this, I would be willing to hand out
the
> source once it is finished.
> >
> > Thanks and I apriciate all the health,
> >
> > Daniel Wier
> > Daniel(at)thegreatwhite.net
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Having had some training from Mike, I can strongly endorse Scott's remarks.
Also, for those of you a long way from the Pacific Northwest, I can attest
to the quality of transition training received from Alex DiDomenicus,out of
Arlington, TX (Dallas area).
Whoever you get it from, get some before you try to fly your RV.
George Kilishek
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Transition Training
>Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 09:08:25 -0700
>
>
>
>I just got back from transition training with Mike Seager this past Friday.
>This was only my third time in an RV and my first time flying one. What a
>nice flying airplane and what a nice guy. So what I had to drive 10 hours
>to get to Vernonia. So what that I ate dinner at the Disfunctional Redneck
>Pizza Parlor (it's okay, I'm a redneck myself). So what I slept in a bed
>that was more like a hammock. So what the walls were paper thin and I got
>to listen to every TV program, every snore, every... never mind. So what
>that I could barely reach the rudder pedals in the factory RV-6. I got to
>actually fly one of these beauties! It really was fun! The plane's
>handling was exceptional. For those of you who haven't flown one, who have
>maybe flown mostly Wichita aircraft (like myself), this thing don't handle
>like a Cessna!
>
>There were actually a couple of things that surprised me about how it
>handled. First, it wasn't as hard to slow down as I had imagined it to be.
>I'm used to Citabrias, and Champs, where you pull the throttle back abeam
>your landing point. I was really intimidated by the slipperyness of the
>RVs. But it turned out to be no problem. Just throttle back to 1800 rpm
>out on the 45 and you'll be good to go.
>
>The other surprising thing was how it stalled. Exactly opposite of what
>I'm
>used to. The power-off stalls are very abrupt and the power-on stalls are
>fairly docile. The extreme pitch-up attitude was pretty disconcerting to
>me
>as well during the power-on stall.
>
>Builders, if you haven't got any stick time in these things go get some.
>They are great flying airplanes but they do have a few gotchas. If at all
>possible take the transition training with Mike. You will never find a
>more
>patient flight instructor. That really is a testament to his character,
>that he can still be so patient after all the transition training he's
>given. Oh, and if you do travel to Vernonia for the training and stay the
>night, be sure to mention to Mike how great the picture quality was on your
>TV. Yes that's an inside joke and you'll just have to wait for Mike's
>response to find out what that means.
>
>Oh, I almost forgot. Mike only teaches three point landings. ;-)
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Manager
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Transition Training
>
>
>I just got back from transition training with Mike Seager this past Friday.
>This was only my third time in an RV and my first time flying one. What a
>nice flying airplane and what a nice guy. So what I had to drive 10 hours
>to get to Vernonia. So what that I ate dinner at the Disfunctional Redneck
>Pizza Parlor (it's okay, I'm a redneck myself). So what I slept in a bed
>that was more like a hammock. So what the walls were paper thin and I got
>to listen to every TV program, every snore, every... never mind. So what
>that I could barely reach the rudder pedals in the factory RV-6. I got to
>actually fly one of these beauties! It really was fun! The plane's handling
>was exceptional. For those of you who haven't flown one, who have maybe
>flown mostly Wichita aircraft (like myself), this thing don't handle like a
>Cessna!
>
>
>There were actually a couple of things that surprised me about how it
>handled. First, it wasn't as hard to slow down as I had imagined it to be.
>I'm used to Citabrias, and Champs, where you pull the throttle back abeam
>your landing point. I was really intimidated by the slipperyness of the
>RVs. But it turned out to be no problem. Just throttle back to 1800 rpm out
>on the 45 and you'll be good to go.
>
>
>The other surprising thing was how it stalled. Exactly opposite of what I'm
>used to. The power-off stalls are very abrupt and the power-on stalls are
>fairly docile. The extreme pitch-up attitude was pretty disconcerting to me
>as well during the power-on stall.
>
>
>Builders, if you haven't got any stick time in these things go get some.
>They are great flying airplanes but they do have a few gotchas. If at all
>possible take the transition training with Mike. You will never find a more
>patient flight instructor. That really is a testament to his character,
>that he can still be so patient after all the transition training he's
>given. Oh, and if you do travel to Vernonia for the training and stay the
>night, be sure to mention to Mike how great the picture quality was on your
>TV. Yes that's an inside joke and you'll just have to wait for Mike's
>response to find out what that means.
>
>
>Oh, I almost forgot. Mike only teaches three point landings. ;-)
>
>
>--
>
>
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>
>
>Network Manager
>
>
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>
>
>209-946-5116
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
Interesting about the firesleeve end dip stuff, now, can someone explain how
you use or apply the stuff? Surely you don't literally dip the end of the
completed hose in it and I can't imagine trying to assemble a hose with the
ends of the firesleeve gooped up with something. Hope someone out there can
shed some light on this.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adapting Exhaust Sysem for O-235 N2C |
Ernest,
Call and talk to Larry Vetterman. He will know what you need and will either
modify your exhaust that you bought from Van's or exxchange it for one that
will fit. I can't remember his phone number but it is available in the
archives, from Van's, or on the RV Yellow Pages.
MIke Robertson
RV-8A, 6A, and 9A
>From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "\(RV LIST\)"
>Subject: RV-List: Adapting Exhaust Sysem for O-235 N2C
>Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:38:34 -0400
>
>
> Can someone with O-235 and/or O-320 experience could help me. I will be
>installing an O-235 N2C on an RV-9A pretty soon. Vans nearest exhaust is
>the Vetterman one for the 320/360 (EA EXH W/MUFF). I asked Gus at Vans
>what I should order. He said to order the above - - and modify it myself
>to
>fit the O-235. He couldn't remember what they did to put it on the O-235
>in
>the first factory prototype. The prototype shop remembers it as "wasn't
>too
>bad". This is stainless steel. The nearest shop I trust is over 200
>miles away. I could shorten a pipe or two - but I can't lengthen one or
>change angles of bend, etc., myself.
>Does someone know what the changes would be (the bad news)?? Thanks.
>
>P.S.: The Fab Air Box will fit really good - I have to remake one part,
>using the existing as a template.
>P.P.S.: The baffle kit will be probably be much different - I may order
>just the plans and make it myself.
>(Just a heads-up for others considering the O-235.)
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a hole
(with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
bother me.
Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 empenage
N880AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
No worries. Debur it well, slap an AN426AD3-3 in there, and call it a day.
8
)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
> My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
> squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
> on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a
hole
> (with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
> hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
> rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
> bother me.
> Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 empenage
> N880AF reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Allen:
Put a rivet in the new hole and move on. If you don't tell anyone it's
there, then I won't! ;
)
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage....drilling landing gear mounts this weekend
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
> My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
> squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
> on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a
hole
> (with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
> hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
> rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
> bother me.
> Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 empenage
> N880AF reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
a Flat head rivet for tyhe proper size.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
> My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
> squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
> on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a
hole
> (with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
> hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
> rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
> bother me.
> Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 empenage
> N880AF reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
>
>My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
>squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
>on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a hole
>(with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
>hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
>rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
>bother me.
>Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Allen Fulmer
I'd take a close look at the new hole to make sure there weren't any
signs of cracks. Any cracks, or sharp edges should probably be
removed with a small round needle file. Then just put a rivet in it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Allen,
Put a 426 shortened rivet in the hole to fill it in,
then fill the head in with superfil only you will know.
ray
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
> My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
> squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after practicing
> on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a
hole
> (with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The "extra"
> hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
> rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
> bother me.
> Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 empenage
> N880AF reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Firesleeve dressing? |
I assumed you dip it before assembly on the hose, then let it dry.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 4:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Firesleeve dressing?
>
>
>
> Interesting about the firesleeve end dip stuff, now, can
> someone explain how
> you use or apply the stuff? Surely you don't literally dip
> the end of the
> completed hose in it and I can't imagine trying to assemble a
> hose with the
> ends of the firesleeve gooped up with something. Hope
> someone out there can
> shed some light on this.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
I would like to install oil door hinges with torsion coils, or similar
mechanism, to keep the oil door open. Two camlocs would normally keep the
door closed.
Does anyone know where I could buy such hinges?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX reserved, I think that I'm getting
close to finishing?)
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Just a headsup to those considering desser retreads. While they should wear
like iron, they are definitely taller than non-retreads. They may not fit
if your wheel pants are tight.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
3B9 - Chester, CT
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Desser Retreads |
Now you tell me. I ordered a pair and there sure is a lot of tread on the
tires. I was able to sell them for what I paid for them to a friend who was
just ordering his finishing kit and he deleated his from the order. I would
have really liked to have been able to use them. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Desser Retreads |
>>
>
>Now you tell me. I ordered a pair and there sure is a lot of tread on the
>tires. I was able to sell them for what I paid for them to a friend who
>was
>just ordering his finishing kit and he deleated his from the order. I
>would
>have really liked to have been able to use them. Terry E. Cole
>
>
TC,
I just received a set of Desser retreads. These particular ones are built
on Aero Trainer 6 ply carcasses. By no means would they pass as "new", but
the recap tread is thick and feels really tough....which is good....because
we high density altitude types touchdown at ludicrous speed! I'm down for
annual now and might mount them up if I decide to not rotate the Condors.
My tires wear on the insides so a right-left/inside-outside swap might yield
another year's use at my current rate of RVating.
Hope to see ya at LOE again.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
302 hrs of tire squeeking glee.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
,
| Subject: | pictures of bending longerons? |
Anybody have any online (or emailable) pictures of bending the longerons?
I've got a half decent picture in my head of how I'm going to do it, but a
photo or two would help complete the picture a bit. Any tips and tricks or
advice are much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
Hi Harry,
I applied the stuff that was given to me with a short haired stiff brush.
When fresh out of the container it applied easy and soaked into the white
fuzz so much that a second and even a third coat was in order.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Firesleeve dressing?
>
> Interesting about the firesleeve end dip stuff, now, can someone explain
how
> you use or apply the stuff? Surely you don't literally dip the end of the
> completed hose in it and I can't imagine trying to assemble a hose with
the
> ends of the firesleeve gooped up with something. Hope someone out there
can
> shed some light on this.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Fuel Lines |
> I'm starting at the centre section and I can get the tubing routed up
> to the main gear web but then how do I manage to turn the tight
> corner, avoid rubbing the gear leg, avoid kinking the tube, through
> the rubber grommet and then onto the fuel pick up line. The area is
> too tight for a tube bender. Any ideas? I've tried twice and just
> ended up ruining the tubing.
As I recall, I used the "spring" tube bender for that area. It's a set of
cheap ($10) springs of various sizes, into which one inserts the tube to
be bent. Then one bends the tubing and the spring together. The
spring helps distribute the bend and supports the tube to minimize
kinking.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
I have made my own firesleeve end dip by thinning Red RTV with MEK to a syrup
consistency.
Bob
> I've seen firesleeve installations where the ends of the firesleeve
> looked sealed or dressed in something. It looks like the end was dipped
> in some very watery RTV-like stuff. What is this stuff, and where can I
> get it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Desser Retreads |
Brian,
We installed our Dresser retrads about 50 hrs ago and didn't have aproblem
with our wheel pants. They still look good - no wear that we can see.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
rv-8A
>From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Desser Retreads
>Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 03:30:46 +0000
>
>
> >>
> >
> >Now you tell me. I ordered a pair and there sure is a lot of tread on
>the
> >tires. I was able to sell them for what I paid for them to a friend who
> >was
> >just ordering his finishing kit and he deleated his from the order. I
> >would
> >have really liked to have been able to use them. Terry E. Cole
> >
> >
>TC,
>
>I just received a set of Desser retreads. These particular ones are built
>on Aero Trainer 6 ply carcasses. By no means would they pass as "new", but
>the recap tread is thick and feels really tough....which is good....because
>we high density altitude types touchdown at ludicrous speed! I'm down for
>annual now and might mount them up if I decide to not rotate the Condors.
>My tires wear on the insides so a right-left/inside-outside swap might
>yield
>another year's use at my current rate of RVating.
>
>Hope to see ya at LOE again.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>302 hrs of tire squeeking glee.
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Larry et al,
I have seen the firesleeve ends finished with red RTV as some have mentioned.
The tool dip stuff sounds OK too. $65 for firesleeve dip sounds outrageous.
A very nice way to finish the end is to apply a section of heat shrink tubing over
the installed firesleeve. Install the firesleeve, add a 2" section of shrink
tubing, shrink it down and put your clamp or safety wire over the shrink tubing.
Remember to put the shrink tubing on before you tighten all the fittings...
doh!
Of course, the shrink tubing can melt in the event of a fire, so you might not
want to rely on it as the only firesleeve clamp, although it makes a very neat
installation that way i.e, without using a metal clamp.
You can get shrink tubing in all different sizes at any electronics or electrical
supply house.
Vince
F-1H Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4's at Cooking Lake, Edmonton, Canada |
Hi all,
I'm a British RV-4 builder who is soon to be found hanging around Cooking
Lake, Edmonton for a month (6th Oct thru 4th Nov) aquiring my Canadian PPL.
If any RV-4 folk are in the area - builders, flyers, wannabe's and want to
talk -4, please email me direct.
Also of interest would be information of a local EAA chapter.
Many thanks,
Bruce Naylor
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures of bending longerons? |
Dan,
I had good luck by clamping the longerons between long sections of 2x4 and
bending rather than using a hammer. I had to cut an angle in one of the 2x4
sections for clearance. This wan't my idea, but I can't remember where I
heard about it. A definite two person job.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
;
Subject: RV-List: pictures of bending longerons?
>
> Anybody have any online (or emailable) pictures of bending the longerons?
> I've got a half decent picture in my head of how I'm going to do it, but a
> photo or two would help complete the picture a bit. Any tips and tricks
or
> advice are much appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Folks,
cheap trick on the tool/firesleeve dip stuff. It uses a fairly strong
solvent that tends to wick right through the vinyl lid they supply with the
can it comes in. This is designed such that you will use it only once and
then have to buy more when you go to use it again in three months.
I've had a can of the tool dip in my hangar refer with two layers of
Aluminum foil between the can and the vinyl cap for about three years now
and it keeps the stuff nice and runny fresh.
Also, make sure you don't mistake it for the peanut butter jar :{)
RE use on firesleeve, who gives a poop if it will burn. Firesleeve is
designed to give you about five minutes of flying time to get to the ground
before allowing more fuel to be added to the fire. The slight sizzle from a
small amount of end dip won't effect this much, particularly if the dipped
portion is over the metal fitting.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Paint quantities |
Greetings RV Listers,
I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A myself. I
would be very interested in comments from others who have done their own
painting. Among my questions are:
* Type and brand of paint
* Type of surface preparation
* Primer (not to awaken the war)
* Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
* Were you happy with the result?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A N331RD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures of bending longerons? |
version=2.41
On Tue, 1 Oct 2002, Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
> Dan,
> I had good luck by clamping the longerons between long sections of 2x4 and
> bending rather than using a hammer. I had to cut an angle in one of the 2x4
> sections for clearance. This wan't my idea, but I can't remember where I
> heard about it. A definite two person job.
>
This is what I did, but I had no trouble doing it myself. Just clamp
the longeron to something big and heavy (I used a 50# anvil), then lean on
the 2x4. You do need to bend quite a bit past the target point to allow
for springback.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Delayed, building a bed.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
In a message dated 9/30/02 5:39:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
afulmer(at)charter.net writes:
<< The "extra" hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will
not hit a
rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably only
bother me. >>
With a rivet.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pictures of bending longerons? |
In a message dated 9/30/02 9:10:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Anybody have any online (or emailable) pictures of bending the longerons?
I've got a half decent picture in my head of how I'm going to do it, but a
photo or two would help complete the picture a bit. Any tips and tricks or
advice are much appreciated. >>
I followed the illustration and text in the instruction manual (RV-6) and
mine came out fine with just a touch of final tweaking to get things aligned.
If the 7 manual doesn't include those instructions maybe I could fax those
pages to you.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Give up. You've ruined the project. It'll never fly straight and people
will laugh at you. Sell the pneumatic riveter to me at half price.
Chuck : )
----- Original Message -----
> > My RV7 is no longer perfect! I was getting the hang of my pneumatic
> > squeezer to dimple the skin on the horizontal stabilizer (after
practicing
> > on some scrap even!) and before I knew what I had done I had punched a
> hole
> > (with dimple of course) in the skin where there was no hole! The
"extra"
> > hole is about 3/4" from the inboard end of the skin so it will not hit a
> > rib. It is on the bottom so whatever repairs I effect will probably
only
> > bother me.
> > Question is: what is the best way to fill the hole?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Allen Fulmer
> > RV7 empenage
> > N880AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Paint quantities |
May I add one to your list?
* Paint before fisrt flight, or not?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Richard Dudley
> Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 1:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Paint quantities
>
>
>
> Greetings RV Listers,
>
> I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A
> myself. I would be very interested in comments from others
> who have done their own painting. Among my questions are:
> * Type and brand of paint
> * Type of surface preparation
> * Primer (not to awaken the war)
> * Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
> * Were you happy with the result?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A N331RD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantities |
I painted my own plane and have documented the process at...
www.rv-8.com/Paint.htm
To answer Larry Bowen's subsequent question on whether to paint before or
after flight, I would personally recommend before. You can paint the plane
in pieces which is far easier and yields better work, and with reasonable
care you won't get any scratches, I didn't.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 268 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
>
> Greetings RV Listers,
>
> I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A myself. I
> would be very interested in comments from others who have done their own
> painting. Among my questions are:
> * Type and brand of paint
> * Type of surface preparation
> * Primer (not to awaken the war)
> * Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
> * Were you happy with the result?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A N331RD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: North Dakota |
Yep, been there. Thanks anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
In a message dated 9/30/2 9:44:47 PM, ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
<>
Gabe,
I have seen such a hinge on an oil door, but when I went to the source the
builder told me he got it, they no longer had them. I ended up making my own
hidden spring loaded hinge by copying the gas cap door on my truck. Riveted
some .032 or .040 (can't remember) to a piece of piano hinge and bent it
around like the one on the truck. Then removed one section of hinge and put a
spring in there. I think I used a spring off of a toggle bolt. The opening
for the door has a flange for the door to rest on and is held shut by one
hartwell latch. My door is fairly small, so you might want two latches for a
large door. I also rounded the corners instead of making them square for
looks. You can do this by using one of those round, cut anything, blades for
a hack saw to cut the corners.
Hope this helps.
Pat Allender - RV-4
doing first condition inspection - can't believe it's been a year!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
> In a message dated 9/30/2 9:44:47 PM, ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
>
> < mechanism, to keep the oil door open. Two camlocs would normally keep the
> door closed. >>
Below is what I did.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com Date: Sep 10, 2001 Subject: Re: streamlined oil
cooler door
Listers
some of you were waiting on my pictures of my oil door, go to the link below
and see them. at the bottom of this is the steps i took to achieve the
results.
http://members5.clubphoto.com/scott351659/504362/owner-b6b0.phtml
enjoy
scott
tampa
Stream lined oil cooler door
by Scott Reviere
1. cut away the recess in the coweling as you would normally do.
2. find the best contour of the oil door and place it under the hole you
now
have in the coweling
3. trace the area of the oil door and leave it slightly longer.
4. cut the traced area out of the door, and measure carefully and cut at an
angle
( slant ) through the center, so you have 2 pieces that bevel where they
mate
in the middle.
5. use the hinges that came with the kit and remove 2 eyes in the center of
2 pieces for each door. ( you have 2 doors now that you cut the main oil
door
in half)
6. insert a mouse trap spring in the missing eyelets and insert the pin.
do this on both hinges so you have a mouse trap spring on each door. rivit
the hinges to the cowel.
7. to keep the door from popping up through the cowel, rivit strips of the
oil door you removed earlier when you trimed the door to fit. you have to
make a spacer under each of the strips, so the doors will end up flush with
the outside of the coweling.
8. put a very thin coat of epoxy mixed with microballoons and sand as
necessary to acheive a perfect contour, gap around the doors, and center
seam.
9. make sure you don't get epoxy in the springs or hinges.
10. sand the strips inside to make a nice looking surrounding of the door.
11. with the center seam at a slanted cut, the top door closes first, and
the
bottom door closes last every time so the seam will hardly be noticable.
note.
when this is done, you can adjust the tension of the mouse springs as
necessary by bending the ends and curling them down toward the cowel. you
can
make the doors as tight or as loose as you want.
by luck, mine turned out like this.
you press the doors inward a little and they snap back.
you press them in all the way and they lock open ( the spring binds )
you press them again and the snap back.
it didn't take long to do this, and is lighter, more streamlined, and is
easier to open and close, no moving parts or hardware latches. also being
able to have it stay open after flights to relieve built up heat in the
engine compartment is a extra benifit.
well that's my contribution to the list for the week.
hope you enjoy it
scott reviere
tampa, fla
rv6a N747ES reserved O360 c/s
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantities |
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>
> Greetings RV Listers,
>
> I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A myself. I
> would be very interested in comments from others who have done their own
> painting. Among my questions are:
> * Type and brand of paint
> * Type of surface preparation
> * Primer (not to awaken the war)
> * Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
> * Were you happy with the result?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A N331RD
==========
Details of my painting saga:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/paint1.html
Yes, I was happy with the results, and VERY happy I painted the plane
before flying it!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantities |
In a message dated 10/1/02 1:33:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rhdudley(at)att.net
writes:
<<
I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A myself. I
would be very interested in comments from others who have done their own
painting. Among my questions are:
* Type and brand of paint
* Type of surface preparation
* Primer (not to awaken the war)
* Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
* Were you happy with the result?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A N331RD >>
First thing - my paint job is very good for something created in a garage by
a first time painter. I learned a lot during the process, and am very proud
to stand by my airplane at a fly-in and tell everyone that not only did I
build the airplane and engine, I also designed the paint scheme and sprayed
the paint. On the other hand, painting is a miserable process (IMO), and I'm
not sure I'd do it again without better facilities than my garage and back
yard.
I used Dupont Centari, which is a catalyzed enamel. If I had it to do over,
I'd probably go with PPG Concept, which gets high marks from anyone who uses
it. As a primer, use whatever the product rep says is compatible with your
top coat. An epoxy is best, but there are many non-epoxy primers that are
just fine.
My surface prep was wiping down with a wax/grease remover, then a mild etch
and scuff with scotchbrite, then rinse, then wipe again with the wax/grease
remover.
Properly done, you could paint an airplane with a gallon of primer, 3
sprayable gallons of paint (assuming a solid base coat), plus trim paint. If
you're not "up" on paint, a sprayable gallon of paint includes reducer,
catylist, and the paint itself. You'd need a gallon of thinner for clean-up,
etc. If you're a first time painter, you'll probably need more of everything
because you'll sand off paint, and have to respray, or you'll run into
problems and have to dispose of a pint of mixed paint here and another pint
there. Pretty soon, the waste adds up. FYI, wasted paint is expensive. A
sprayable quart of Imron or Centari costs $40 or more...
You also need a bazillion mixing cups and sticks, nitrile gloves, and a
forced air breathing system, which you could make for $25 using instructions
you can find in the archives.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
The easy answer here is to buy a Cessna oil door hinge.
It is hidden completly, and has a spring that holds the door open. Very
slick, quite simple, and looks fantastic.
I'm not sure what model of Cessna this comes from, but I have one, and it is
perfect for this application.
See pictures here:
http://www.steinair.com/jn/
Click on the "Misc" link to see open and closed version of this door.
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> Does anyone on the list know if the cables that come
> from vans have had any problem with
> the amount of throw or travel amount..With
> my RV6 (180) cable stated in Vans Catalog (41.5)
> I find that the throw is only 2.3 inches .The mixture arm
> travel is 2.65 inches !!! And the same cable in ACS cat shows
> the same cable to have a throw of 3.37 inches..
If you look in Aircraft Spruce's catalog, there is a page which
describes the variables on control cables like the ones made by ACS
(btw, this is not Aircraft Spruce). When the cables are straight (an
unlikely case), their travel is full. For each degree of bend in the
cable, there is a decrease in the travel. One must take this into
account when getting cables. Van's cables will not get you the amount
of throw you need if there are bends in the cable (unless they have
changed what they stock in the last couple years).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 211 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
I have an O-290G which has a leaky fuel pump. I would appreciate advice regarding
the cost and ease of rebuilding this. I have decent mechanical skills but
no experience in this area. Where would I find directions for rebuilding this
and what parts might I need and where are these to be found.
I f this isn't viable how about using a pair of electric pumps instead?
Thanks for your help guys.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley.
RV9A fuselage. N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable |
Van's cable will give you the proper throw, as long as you order the one for
the RV-9. It is slightly longer and is perfect for an O-360 RV-6. I went
through 3 mixture cables from Van's and Spruce before I found this out. Why
Van's sells a mixture cable that will not work, is beyond me, but the RV-9
cable will work.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mixture Cable
>
> > Does anyone on the list know if the cables that come
> > from vans have had any problem with
> > the amount of throw or travel amount..With
> > my RV6 (180) cable stated in Vans Catalog (41.5)
> > I find that the throw is only 2.3 inches .The mixture arm
> > travel is 2.65 inches !!! And the same cable in ACS cat shows
> > the same cable to have a throw of 3.37 inches..
>
> If you look in Aircraft Spruce's catalog, there is a page which
> describes the variables on control cables like the ones made by ACS
> (btw, this is not Aircraft Spruce). When the cables are straight (an
> unlikely case), their travel is full. For each degree of bend in the
> cable, there is a decrease in the travel. One must take this into
> account when getting cables. Van's cables will not get you the amount
> of throw you need if there are bends in the cable (unless they have
> changed what they stock in the last couple years).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 211 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Rib attachment to F604 |
I've got a question that I don't see mentioned in the archives. How have others
dealt with fitting the seat ribs to the F-604? The 604 is a supposed to be
positioned at a slight angle (vertically), therefore, the seat rib flange does
not sit flush on the 604. The top (bottom of the fuselage) of the rib touches
just right but the opposite end of the flange is about 1/8" away from the 604.
The only solution I can see is to:
1. Shim the Rib
2. cut a slit in the flange and bend it so that it fits appropriately.
Any other ideas?
Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
Austin, TX
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Rib attachment to F604 |
I've got a question that I don't see mentioned in the archives. How have others
dealt with fitting the seat ribs to the F-604? The 604 is a supposed to be
positioned at a slight angle (vertically), therefore, the seat rib flange does
not sit flush on the 604. The top (bottom of the fuselage) of the rib touches
just right but the opposite end of the flange is about 1/8" away from the 604.
The only solution I can see is to:
1. Shim the Rib
2. cut a slit in the flange and bend it so that it fits appropriately.
Any other ideas?
Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
Austin, TX
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Thanks for all the help on fixing an errant hole in the skin. I clecoed the
rib back in place to make sure I had room for the shop head of a flush rivet
and sad to say, the hole is right over the radius of the flange and web.
The countersink actually holds the skin off the rib a little. Looks like I
can probably flatten the metal out and then fill it with something before
finish priming and painting.
Is that the right way to handle the repairs?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 empenage
N880AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantities |
Hello Richard;
I am at about the 80% mark in painting my RV-6A so perhaps I can offer some
useful comments. First of all, I would second all of Kyle's words in the
message below. Painting your airplane yourself is certainly doable but it's
lots of work, it's a long messy job and requires lots of dedicated shop
space. Assuming you section off a part of your shop or garage with poly to
use as a paint booth, it is going to be out of action for two to three weeks
and probably longer. There is a learning curve in spraying paint to make
your way up which will cost you some time and wasted paint but you will get
there eventually!
Paying a pro to do the job will bypass most of the above as he will have the
shop space and spray equipment ready to go and he will be far ahead on the
learning curve for personal skills. Having said this, painting is about 90%
preparation and 10% actual paint application. Doing your own preparation and
letting a pro do the final spray job would be a good way to go. Most amateur
builders handle the various bits and pieces of their project often enough
that there will likely be an accumulation of dings, gouges and whatever to
deal with plus probably some mis-driven rivets, gun slips, etc. In other
words lots of fiddly little bits of filling, sanding, and re-priming will be
needed. Paying a pro to do this work will cost lots just on the time
involved, so better to look after this yourself. The ability to pace the
work and take the time to suit yourself about fixing all the small details
is one of the advantages of doing your own painting.
I am using PPG Omni paint on my project. This is a somewhat lower cost line
than the PPG Concept paint that others have reported using. I'm not penny
pinching but just being realistic about what I needed plus I found a
supplier who went out of his way to be helpful to a beginner and that's the
main product line he carried.
My process for aluminum surfaces:
- wash with TSP (a heavy duty grease cutting detergent)
- scrub with scothbrite to break the surface shine
- treat with alodine solution
- degrease with MX 190 cleaner (it's mostly naptha)
- spray thin coat MP176 etch primer
- spray MP 170 expoxy primer
- spray MTK Acrylic Urethane topcoat
Looks complicated but it is possible to go from bare aluminum to final
colour in a single session (3-4 hours) for small components (eg, a vertical
stab).
For fiberglass components (after finish sanding, filling, etc.)
- degrease with MX190
- spray with MP 170 epoxy primer
- spray on MP 182 2K urethane surfacer
- sand as required
- final coat of MP 170 epoxy primer
- MTK Acrylic Urethane topcoat
The surfacer is to deal with the dreaded "pinhole" situation. The later type
"S" cowlings have a lot of weave and pinholes (mine had anyway) and the MP
182 "surfacer" stuff did surprisingly well in coping with this. Expect to
spend a lot of hours of hand sanding the cowlings and other fiberglass
parts.
I am using a solid yellow paint scheme and will add vinyl lettering and
pinstriping. I expect to use about 2 US gals of MTK urethane paint (yellow
top coat), 1.5 US gals of epoxy primer, 2 qts of etch primer, and one quart
of surfacer. Plus there are catylsts and hardeners needed for each of the
above. Plus I will use about 1/2 gal each of reducer and cleaner. Plus about
1.5 gals of plain lacquer thinner for gun and general clean-up.
Others things to figure in, paint gun (to suit your price range - lots of
choices out there), suitable compressor to run the spray gun (likely a
bigger one than you got along with when riveting), materials for paint booth
(I used 100 ft of 1x2 wood strips, plus 60x8 ft of poly), exhaust fan for
paint booth, mask with air supply, goggles, 3-4 pairs of rubber gloves,
lots of paper towels, masking tape and paper, a couple of tyvek disposable
coveralls, lots of sandpaper. So you can see the cost do add up rather
quickly when it is paint time. Makes one think again about getting a pro to
do the job!
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint quantities
>
> In a message dated 10/1/02 1:33:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> writes:
>
> <<
> I am seriously considering painting the outside of my RV-6A myself. I
> would be very interested in comments from others who have done their own
> painting. Among my questions are:
> * Type and brand of paint
> * Type of surface preparation
> * Primer (not to awaken the war)
> * Quantity of primer, paint, activator, thinner or other components.
> * Were you happy with the result?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A N331RD >>
>
> First thing - my paint job is very good for something created in a garage
by
> a first time painter. I learned a lot during the process, and am very
proud
> to stand by my airplane at a fly-in and tell everyone that not only did I
> build the airplane and engine, I also designed the paint scheme and
sprayed
> the paint. On the other hand, painting is a miserable process (IMO), and
I'm
> not sure I'd do it again without better facilities than my garage and back
> yard.
>
> I used Dupont Centari, which is a catalyzed enamel. If I had it to do
over,
> I'd probably go with PPG Concept, which gets high marks from anyone who
uses
> it. As a primer, use whatever the product rep says is compatible with
your
> top coat. An epoxy is best, but there are many non-epoxy primers that are
> just fine.
>
> My surface prep was wiping down with a wax/grease remover, then a mild
etch
> and scuff with scotchbrite, then rinse, then wipe again with the
wax/grease
> remover.
>
> Properly done, you could paint an airplane with a gallon of primer, 3
> sprayable gallons of paint (assuming a solid base coat), plus trim paint.
If
> you're not "up" on paint, a sprayable gallon of paint includes reducer,
> catylist, and the paint itself. You'd need a gallon of thinner for
clean-up,
> etc. If you're a first time painter, you'll probably need more of
everything
> because you'll sand off paint, and have to respray, or you'll run into
> problems and have to dispose of a pint of mixed paint here and another
pint
> there. Pretty soon, the waste adds up. FYI, wasted paint is expensive.
A
> sprayable quart of Imron or Centari costs $40 or more...
>
> You also need a bazillion mixing cups and sticks, nitrile gloves, and a
> forced air breathing system, which you could make for $25 using
instructions
> you can find in the archives.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Hi Allen,
That'll do it!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
> Thanks for all the help on fixing an errant hole in the skin. I clecoed
the
> rib back in place to make sure I had room for the shop head of a flush
rivet
> and sad to say, the hole is right over the radius of the flange and web.
> The countersink actually holds the skin off the rib a little. Looks like
I
> can probably flatten the metal out and then fill it with something before
> finish priming and painting.
>
> Is that the right way to handle the repairs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 empenage
> N880AF reserved
> Alexander City, AL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Seat Rib attachment to F604 |
Make sure the F604 is tilted the correct direction and correct amount of
tilt. Also, check the attach points at the F605. If seat rib is too high
at the F605, it will give a gap on the other end of the seat rib at the
F604. Shims shouldn't be necessary.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV-6 N296JC(res)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Seat Rib attachment to F604
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
>
> I've got a question that I don't see mentioned in the archives. How have
others dealt with fitting the seat ribs to the F-604? The 604 is a supposed
to be positioned at a slight angle (vertically), therefore, the seat rib
flange does not sit flush on the 604. The top (bottom of the fuselage) of
the rib touches just right but the opposite end of the flange is about 1/8"
away from the 604.
>
> The only solution I can see is to:
> 1. Shim the Rib
> 2. cut a slit in the flange and bend it so that it fits appropriately.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
> Austin, TX
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
I would like to install oil door hinges with torsion coils, or similar
mechanism, to keep the oil door open. Two camlocs would normally keep the
door closed.
Does anyone know where I could buy such hinges?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX reserved, I think that I'm getting
close to finishing?)
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seat Rib attachment to F604 |
Mike,
I just fit those ribs on my circa-1999 kit and this is my second kit. I can
assure you they should fit flush. I suspect you have the angle of the F-604
reversed. The spacing of the F-604 from the firewall is 29 1/2 at the floor
end (top in the jig) and 29 15/16 at the longeron end (on the jig). That
spacing sets your wing incidence.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> I've got a question that I don't see mentioned in the archives.
> How have others dealt with fitting the seat ribs to the F-604?
> The 604 is a supposed to be positioned at a slight angle
> (vertically), therefore, the seat rib flange does not sit flush
> on the 604. The top (bottom of the fuselage) of the rib touches
> just right but the opposite end of the flange is about 1/8" away
> from the 604.
>
> The only solution I can see is to:
> 1. Shim the Rib
> 2. cut a slit in the flange and bend it so that it fits appropriately.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> Mike Nellis http://www.bmnellis.com
> Austin, TX
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> RV-6 N699BM (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Door With Torsion Coils |
Gabe,
Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/
type "spring cabinet hinge" in the FIND window.
Scroll down and look at items #1-5
I used item #11205A35 for my hinges. To find it,
search under "weldable concealed hinges"
I used those hinges in combination with a single
hartwell latch. Incidentally, the door will hold itself
open with a slight axial misalignment of the two
concealed hinges.
I made my oil door out of .063 2024T3 Aluminum. I have
seen to many fiberglass doors distort and from the
engine heat. The aluminum door has been trouble-free.
It looks great too!
Hope this helps.
-Glenn Gordon
RV-6, N442E
>
>
> I would like to install oil door hinges with torsion coils, or similar
> mechanism, to keep the oil door open. Two camlocs would normally keep the
> door closed.
>
> Does anyone know where I could buy such hinges?
>
> Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Gabe A Ferrer (RV6, SE Florida, N2GX reserved, I think that I'm getting
> close to finishing?)
> ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
> Cell: 561 758 8894
> Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Pressure Problem |
Hi,
I am getting high fuel pressure readings. I am almost
positive that I have a bad transducer.
With the engine off, should I have a fuel pressure
reading other than zero?
With the engine off, what kind of rise in fuel pressure
should I see when I turn the aux pump on?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mooney37v(at)juno.com |
Hello,
I'm in the market for an RV6, looking for a good IFR cross country machine. Just
sold my Mooney and want to get a plane that does not cost as much to maintain
but is just as fast (prefer faster!).
I've seen lots of speed claims with both the -320 and -360 engines, what are you
owners actually seeing for cruise speeds and fuel burns with these engines?
I'd really appreciate any tips/suggestions on the gotchas to look for when shopping
for a nice RV6.
Thanks in Advance,
Reggie Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
I have used stainless steel wire ties (Mcmaster-CARR) cost about a
dollar each. I dressed up the fuzzy ends of the firesleeve with red RTV
and closed off the end with one of the S/S wire ties. Looks like the
real thing. Also, the lawn sprinkler/irrigation supply stores here
sells the S/S crimp type hose clamps. You use a nipper or dykes to pull
or squeeze the clamp closed. I used these also on the fire sleeve and it
looks & works great. Either of these two S/S clamps make the hose look
finished and not like "harry homeowner" did it.....(which he did)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seeking an RV 6/7/8 |
| From: | mooney37v(at)juno.com |
Hello,
I'm in the market for an RV6/7/8 (prefer the 6), looking for a good IFR cross country
machine. Just sold my Mooney and want to get a plane that does not cost
as much to maintain but is just as fast (prefer faster!).
I've seen lots of speed claims with both the -320 and -360 engines, what are you
owners actually seeing for cruise speeds and fuel burns with these engines?
I'd really appreciate any tips/suggestions on the gotchas to look for when shopping
for a nice RV6.
Thanks in Advance,
Reggie Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Reminder Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In |
A quick reminder: the Coastal Georgia Fall Fly-In is Oct 19. at Eagle Neck Airpark,
1GA0. We're located on the Georgia coast half way between Savannah and St.
Simons. 5 RVs on the airport.
Please RVSP off line and we'll send you a flyer and airport briefing.
This airpark is featured on the cover of the current General Aviation News.
Dick & Vicki Sipp
912 832-4813
rsipp(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Allen:
That should work fine for you in this situation. As to the right way to handle
repairs, man does that open a new war!!
Bill Marvel
Allen Fulmer wrote:
> I clecoed the
> rib back in place to make sure I had room for the shop head of a flush rivet
> and sad to say, the hole is right over the radius of the flange and web.
> The countersink actually holds the skin off the rib a little. Looks like I
> can probably flatten the metal out and then fill it with something before
> finish priming and painting.
>
> Is that the right way to handle the repairs?
>
> T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem |
What kind of fuel pressure monitoring system are you using?
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pressure Problem
>
> Hi,
> I am getting high fuel pressure readings. I am almost
> positive that I have a bad transducer.
>
> With the engine off, should I have a fuel pressure
> reading other than zero?
>
> With the engine off, what kind of rise in fuel pressure
> should I see when I turn the aux pump on?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
I've mentioned this before but here is a perfect example of using your EAA
Chapter
to benefit all builders.
Have the Chapter buy seldom used tools that are required by all but only
used a few times
when building your airplane. This would include flaring tools, magneto
timers, etc.
A Band Clamp tool is only $125 through Chief Aircraft. Firesleeve clamps are
around
$1.75 each but can be found cheaper on the Internet.
This will give your hoses a professional look
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: P M Condon [SMTP:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 6:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Firesleeve dressing?
>
>
> I have used stainless steel wire ties (Mcmaster-CARR) cost about a
> dollar each. I dressed up the fuzzy ends of the firesleeve with red RTV
> and closed off the end with one of the S/S wire ties. Looks like the
> real thing. Also, the lawn sprinkler/irrigation supply stores here
> sells the S/S crimp type hose clamps. You use a nipper or dykes to pull
> or squeeze the clamp closed. I used these also on the fire sleeve and it
> looks & works great. Either of these two S/S clamps make the hose look
> finished and not like "harry homeowner" did it.....(which he did)
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Here's what I'd recommend:
Make up a yellow arrow sticker like the ones used on military planes to
point out emergency canopy release, etc. Print "THE FLAW" on it, and affix
it to your plane pointing at the hole. No one will ever need to look further
for THE FLAW in your airplane!
:-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Rocket-List: cowl pressure |
Okay, having said that give us the solution that utilizes that lost 70%
flow (or a large portion thereof).
----- Original Message -----
From: <LesDrag(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: cowl pressure
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: LesDrag(at)aol.com
>
> I never have understood why everyone used the top of the cowl for part of
the
> baffling. It causes all of the cowl surfaces to be providing upward
> pressure. (Bernoulli's on the outside top surface, "pressure" on forward
3/4
> of the inside top surface, impact pressure exceeding bernoulli's on the
> outside bottom surface, and "vacuum" on the inside bottom surface.)
>
> It is also very inefficient. In the typical Van's cowl (which is cleaner
> than most manufacturers), there is a 70% net flow loss in the air just
going
> from the air inlet to the engine cylinders.
>
> JMHO
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem |
I am using an Electronics International FP-5L.
I suspect I have a bad transducer.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E
>
> What kind of fuel pressure monitoring system are you using?
>
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pressure Problem
>
>
> >
> > Hi,
> > I am getting high fuel pressure readings. I am almost
> > positive that I have a bad transducer.
> >
> > With the engine off, should I have a fuel pressure
> > reading other than zero?
> >
> > With the engine off, what kind of rise in fuel pressure
> > should I see when I turn the aux pump on?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Quantities |
Thanks to all the responses to my questions about painting both brief
and with details.
Richard Dudley
-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem |
I would contact EI and let them know what is going on. I have heard that
they have real good customer service. I am using the EIS-4000 and I know
that you have to program it to get the proper readings, but I don't know
about the EI ones.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pressure Problem
>
> I am using an Electronics International FP-5L.
>
> I suspect I have a bad transducer.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E
> >
> > What kind of fuel pressure monitoring system are you using?
> >
> > Ed Perry
> > eperry(at)san.rr.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pressure Problem
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > I am getting high fuel pressure readings. I am almost
> > > positive that I have a bad transducer.
> > >
> > > With the engine off, should I have a fuel pressure
> > > reading other than zero?
> > >
> > > With the engine off, what kind of rise in fuel pressure
> > > should I see when I turn the aux pump on?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Glenn Gordon
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
I would recommend *not* doing this, because you'll be left with a hole
that's been stretched once, compressed once, and may have tiny stress
cracks on the inside of it as a result. If you flatten it out, at least
run a slightly-larger-than-the-hole sized drill through it to clean it
up before you fill/sand/prime it.
Alternatively, you could leave the dimple as-is, clean it up with a
drill bit (a good idea either way), notch the top of the rib for
clearance, continue with construction, and fill the hole later. I don't
think you'll be compromising anything significantly structural to worry
about (although i't's possible there are others who disagree).
Oh, and you might want to wait until you've riveted the tail together
before bothering to fill it, the banging may shake loose any filler you
add now (but I think you already thought of that judging from your
wording below).
-RB4
Allen Fulmer wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the help on fixing an errant hole in the skin. I clecoed the
> rib back in place to make sure I had room for the shop head of a flush rivet
> and sad to say, the hole is right over the radius of the flange and web.
> The countersink actually holds the skin off the rib a little. Looks like I
> can probably flatten the metal out and then fill it with something before
> finish priming and painting.
>
> Is that the right way to handle the repairs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin! |
Just notch the rib enough to clear the rivet head.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Update on: Opps! Messed up my horiz. stab skin!
>
>
> >
> > Thanks for all the help on fixing an errant hole in the skin. I clecoed
> the
> > rib back in place to make sure I had room for the shop head of a flush
> rivet
> > and sad to say, the hole is right over the radius of the flange and web.
> > The countersink actually holds the skin off the rib a little. Looks
like
> I
> > can probably flatten the metal out and then fill it with something
before
> > finish priming and painting.
> >
> > Is that the right way to handle the repairs?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alum tubing vs. flexible fuel lines |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
One thing to keep in mind regarding this thread about using flexible hoses in place
of rigid aluminum fuel lines is that in addition to the greater expense,
flexible hoses also tend to be significantly heavier. If you count ounces as
you build your airplane this is worth considering.
Another thing to keep in mind is that flexible lines will vibrate more (unless
well-clamped at regular intervals), and more vibration can increase the tendency
to vapor lock.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D canopy skirts...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve dressing? |
I think the CV Boot clamp tool at NAPA is about $15 and works fine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Firesleeve dressing?
>
> I've mentioned this before but here is a perfect example of using your EAA
> Chapter
> to benefit all builders.
> Have the Chapter buy seldom used tools that are required by all but only
> used a few times
> when building your airplane. This would include flaring tools, magneto
> timers, etc.
>
> A Band Clamp tool is only $125 through Chief Aircraft. Firesleeve clamps
are
> around
> $1.75 each but can be found cheaper on the Internet.
>
> This will give your hoses a professional look
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: P M Condon [SMTP:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 6:42 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Firesleeve dressing?
> >
> >
> > I have used stainless steel wire ties (Mcmaster-CARR) cost about a
> > dollar each. I dressed up the fuzzy ends of the firesleeve with red RTV
> > and closed off the end with one of the S/S wire ties. Looks like the
> > real thing. Also, the lawn sprinkler/irrigation supply stores here
> > sells the S/S crimp type hose clamps. You use a nipper or dykes to pull
> > or squeeze the clamp closed. I used these also on the fire sleeve and it
> > looks & works great. Either of these two S/S clamps make the hose look
> > finished and not like "harry homeowner" did it.....(which he did)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking an RV6 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <mooney37v(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Seeking an RV6
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm in the market for an RV6, looking for a good IFR cross country
machine. Just sold my Mooney and want to get a plane that does not cost as
much to maintain but is just as fast (prefer faster!).
>
> I've seen lots of speed claims with both the -320 and -360 engines, what
are you owners actually seeing for cruise speeds and fuel burns with these
engines?
>
> I'd really appreciate any tips/suggestions on the gotchas to look for when
shopping for a nice RV6.
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Reggie Smith
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
get a mousetrap. scavenge the spring.
Or go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy one outright.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Alum tubing vs. flexible fuel lines |
Where did you learn this? Vapor lock is caused by the fuel going below
it's vapor pressure point and vaporizing. The vapor point of fuel is
directly proportional to it's temperature. Higher fuel temp - higher
vapor pressure. Vibration might cause fuel foaming - not vapor lock.
Now, you've got at least one flexible line in your fuel system that
connects to your engine. I don't see the harm in having one more.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
SNIP
Another thing to keep in mind is that flexible lines will vibrate more
(unless well-clamped at regular intervals), and more vibration can
increase the tendency to vapor lock.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D canopy skirts...
September 24, 2002 - October 02, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nn